Jancis Robinson Reports and W Ine Ratings on Her South Africa Trip from January 2015 W W .Jancisrobinson.Com
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KapWeine Telefon +41 (0)43 888 21 21 Öffnungszeiten Büro/Showroom The Home of South African Wines Cape Wine Selection SA Telefax +41 (0)43 888 21 22 Montag – Freitag 9.00 – 18.00 Rütibüelstrasse 17 Mail [email protected] Donnerstag 9.00 – 20.00 www.kapweine.ch CH-8820 Wädenswil MwSt-Nr. CHE-107.570.196 Samstag 10.00 – 16.00 Jancis Robinson reports and w ine ratings on her South Africa Trip from January 2015 http://w w w .jancisrobinson.com / Die w eltberühm te Englische W ein Journalistin Jancis Robinson (M aster of W ine) besuchte im Januar 2015 Südafrika und hat inzw ischen Ihren spannenden Report m it vielen Top- Bew ertungen veröffentlicht. Sie schreibt auf Ihrer w ebpage http://w ww .jancisrobinson.com / seit Jahrzehnten über die W eine der W elt und gehört zu den annerkanntesten W ein Journalisten – Bew erter w eltw eit! Vor sieben Jahren w ar Jancis das letzte M al vor Ort in Südafrika. Es hat sich viel verändert seit dem … .. aber lesen Sie Ihren Bericht gleich selber und w erden Sie m em ber von Jancis Robinson und Sie erhalten online Zugriff auf den Oxford Com panion to W ine und auf Ihre über 9000 Artikel und über 100‘000 W einbeschreibungen. Es lohnt sich: http://ww w.jancisrobinson.com /m em bership Written by Jancis Robinson http://www.jancisrobinson.com/ 6 Feb 2015 Bree Street, Cape Town: food with a view ’s natural beauty is so striking that it is impossible for any Cape Town chef to compete. The Twelve Apostles Azure At the restaurant in hotel, , the team behind energetic chef Christo Pretorius delivered a rich lamb terrine, a fillet of fresh, flaky kingklip and a luscious dessert of various combinations of milk and honey (inspired, he told me, by his morning bowl of porridge). But I found it difficult to take my eyes off the panoramic view of the sun setting on the ocean directly outside to take too many notes. That was one extra reason perhaps why I so enjoyed the five hours I spent walking along Bree Street downtown. The views of nearby Table Mountain only appear infrequently, allowing me to concentrate on the various exciting food and wine places that are emerging here. Bree means 'wide' in Afrikaans and so although this emerging nucleus of independent food and drink enthusiasts has the air of the collective phenomenon that has over recent years so successfully transformed Borough Market in London and so much of Brooklyn, this street has a feel of its own. There is a sense of space here along the broad pavements, although how much longer this will last once its obvious pleasure factor is fully recognised, I am not sure. This street also comes with its own sense of history. Heritage Square, half way along, contains the oldest vine in the country, planted in the 18th century, right by two city wineries that are both now managed by Frenchmen. Atlas Trading Company Just above it on Wale Street is the , a long- established Muslim-run company that has been trading in spices, nuts and dried fruit for decades and which every enthusiastic visiting home cook should visit before packing their suitcase. Frankie Fenner Meat These herbs go into the sausages that hang in the Merchants 250 metres away, a basement space that sells remarkable knives crafted in the garage of Scott Lowry, a teacher by day, while one Publik Wine Bar corner is devolved in the evening to the . Jason Bakery Further along Bree Street is that produces a great coffee, a red cappuccino made from rooibos leaves, as well as breads and sandwiches. A couple of blocks further north is Sababa, a small space that specialises in Middle Eastern food that would remind any Londoner, if they were to close their eyes and inhale deeply, of an Ottolenghi cafe or Honey & Co. Chefs Warehouse & My overriding goal, however, was to eat at Canteen , and to reacquaint myself with the exceptional cooking style of Irish-born Liam Tomlin and the hospitality of his English-born wife, Jan. What I did not appreciate as I walked past at 10.30 am, catching a glimpse of the proprietors doing those menial tasks that are an integral – part of running any small business he was putting the stools out on to ’s the tables on the pavement, dressed, as ever, in a crisp white chef – jacket, while she was brushing the floor was that this visit would result in my best-value meal for a very long time. What ensued were £21) and comprised more eight different dishes that cost R380 for two ( than enough excellent food for both of us. ‘tapas’ but bear no recognition to the These dishes are called Spanish original. This is South Africa, after all, where appetites are large and therefore portion sizes have to be, too. In my opinion these are the same size, and of as good a quality, as any first course served in a top restaurant in Europe or the US. The menu, which Tomlin creates every morning with input from his young chefs, reflects his itinerant career. We began with a most satisfying tomato risotto before moving on to four dishes that reflected his years in Sydney, Australia: thin slices of raw beef with oyster mayonnaise; seared and peppered tuna with soba noodles; venison with roast pears and an intricate mixture of curls of squid, fine slices of octopus and chorizo laced with a potato salad. Finally, two dishes that ’s Irish bac came from Tomlin kground: a hefty piece of roasted bone marrow topped with a shrimp crust and, finally, the most delicate interpretation of a lemon posset in a glass topped with raspberries served alongside a glass jug of cool raspberry sauce. These dishes are served on large, round wooden trays in one side of the building while the other sells kitchen equipment and cookery books and doubles as a hospitable waiting room because after just a year the Tomlins have developed a loyal following. This is due, somewhat inadvertently, to a highly effective seating layout. ’s customers sit reasonably comfortably at a series of six Tomlin communal wooden tables, four inside and two outside, seating no more than 30 at any one time. This style of food allows the unflappable Jan to turn the tables, without taking reservations, twice at lunch and twice before last orders, which they fixed at an immovable 8 pm even before they opened to ensure that they saw something of each other outside the restaurant. Relaxing over a glass of Pinot Noir, Tomlin confessed that as he approaches his 50th birthday, he is now cooking more happily than ever before in his career, a feeling I was definitely able to pick up on. Then he added with a smile, 'And we may even be starting to make some money.' The Twelve Apostles Frankie Fenner Meat Merchants Publik Jason Bakery Sababa Chefs Warehouse & Canteen © 2015 Jancis Robinson Copyright Written by Jancis Robinson http://www.jancisrobinson.com/ 6 Feb 2015 èdre Rosé 2014 Circumstance, Cape Coral Mourv Stellenbosch WINES OF THE WEEK SOUTH AFRICA PINK WINE £8.99, €11.9 9, 17.90 Swiss francs From 88 rand, Find this wine ’m There is no escape from South Africa on this website this week, I afraid. I am determined to convince all-comers of the virtues, and particularly the value, of Cape wine today. Many of the hundreds of – wines I described enthusiastically in South African excitement reds , – ’s wild north west South African excitement the rest and South Africa are definitively South African, based on blends of unusual grape varieties from old bushvines. This wine, on the other hand, is to all intents and purposes a great-value alternative to a dry, herby Bandol é. ros ’s made from the Bandol grape Mourvèdre and has It just the same very pale orangey-pink colour, the full body and the dry, food-friendly finish. é that has nothing whatever to do with This is substantial, grown-up ros anything girly, even though the highly competent winemaker is female. (According to Nadia Barnard, only about 10% of winemakers in South Africa are women.) She previously worked next door at Vergelegen and also at Flagstone but now she is chief winemaker at Englishman Paul ’s spectacular Waterkloof Estate. Nadia Barnard says she was Boutinot inspired to make this wine, which has gained consistently enthusiastic ’s winery in notes in our database, by her time working in Boutinot ône, but I have to say that it reminds me Cairanne in the southern Rh é than anything I have more of a Domaine Tempier ros tasted in the ône. southern Rh ’s not heavy but its low acid makes it taste quite soft (residual sugar is It about 4 g/l) - although there is quite enough acidity (5.1 g/l) to keep it èdre’s tendency to reduction, it was made in lively. To combat Mourv ’s old wooden fermenters and left on the lees for a few months. It ’s only 12.5% alcohol, it doesn’t smoky, broad, great fun and although it taste remotely puny. The 2013/14 growing season was relatively cool so that they were able to pick the grapes about 10 days later than usual, with all the necessary flavour but no excess grape sugar. Whole bunches were pressed and only the free-run juice fermented using only ambient yeasts. Waterkloof with its award-winning restaurant overlooking Somerset West and the ocean (immediately below is my new iPhone's view from the restaurant looking east rather than south) is a biodynamic estate (certified from 2015) with Percheron horses very much in evidence.