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Deskripsi Ragam Hias Motif Dinding Ai Dan Sanan Empeg Tenun Ikat Geringsing

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Deskripsi Ragam Hias Motif Dinding Ai Dan Sanan Empeg Tenun Ikat Geringsing JURNAL DA MODA Vol. 1 No 2 – Mei 2020 p-ISSN 2715-0607 (Print), e-ISSN 2715-0585 (Online) Available Online at : https://jurnal.std-bali.ac.id/index.php/damoda DESKRIPSI RAGAM HIAS MOTIF DINDING AI DAN SANAN EMPEG TENUN IKAT GERINGSING Luh Wina Sadevi Sekolah Tinggi Desain Bali, Denpasar, Bali - Indonesia e-mail:[email protected] INFORMASI ARTIKEL A B S T R A C T Received : April, 2020 Indonesia has various kinds of textiles, including batik, ikat, ulos, and Accepted : April, 2020 songket which are made in different styles in each region in Indonesia. Publish online : May, 2020 There are three types of ikat that are still produced on several islands in Indonesia today. For double ikat, only known in three places in the world, there are India, Japan, and Indonesia. One of the region in Indonesia that still produces double ikat is Tenganan Pegeringsingan, Bali, which is called Geringsing ikat. Geringsing ikat is made up of various motifs, including Dinding Ai and Sanan Empeg motif, where both motifs consist of geometric decoration, stylation of natural shapes such as the sun, and stilation of organic decoration in the form of plants. Key words : Ikat, double ikat, ikat Geringsing, Motif, Ornament A B S T R A K Indonesia memiliki berbagai macam tekstil, diantaranyya batik, tenun ikat, ulos, dan songket yang dibuat dalam gaya yang berbeda-beda di masing-masing daerah di Indonesia. Ada tiga jenis tenun ikat yang masih di produksi di beberapa pulau di Indonesia hingga saat ini. Untuk tenun ikat ganda, hanya dikenal di tiga tempat di dunia, yaitu India, Jepang, dan Indonesia. Salah satu daerah di Indonesia yang hingga kini masih memproduksi tenun ikat ganda, yaitu Tenganan Pegringsingan, Bali yang disebut dengan tenun ikat Geringsing. Tenun ikat Geringsing terdiri dari berbagai macam motif, diantaranya motif Dinding Ai dan Sanan Empeg, dimana kedua motif tersebut terdiri dari ragam hias geometris, stilasi dari bentuk alam seperti matahari, dan stilasi dari ragam hias organis yang berupa tumbuh-tumbuhan. Kata Kunci: Tenun ikat, Tenun ikat ganda, Tenun Ikat Geringsing, Motif, Ragam Hias. PENDAHULUAN perkembangan tekstil ini banyak dipengaruhi oleh Indonesia memiliki berbagai macam tekstil, seperti hubungan perdagangan yang diadakan dengan batik, tenun ikat, ulos, dan songket yang dibuat di India, Cina, Arab, Portugis dan Belanda. Hubungan seluruh Indonesia dalam gaya yang berbeda-beda perdagangan ini disebabkan oleh letak Indonesia di setiap wilayah. Tekstil Indonesia mengalami yang strategis bagi lalu lintas perdagangan Asia perkembangan selama berabad-abad, Tenggara. 27 Jurnal Da Moda Ada tiga jenis tenun ikat yaitu tenun ikat lungsi, tampil menarik (Irma Hadisurya, dkk, 2011:147). tenun ikat pakan, tenun ikat ganda atau dobel ikat. Motif juga berarti desain yang dibuat dari bagian- Ketiga jenis tenun ikat tersebut masih di produksi bagian bentuk, berbagai macam garis atau di beberapa pulau di Indonesia. Untuk proses elemen-elemen yang terkadang begitu kuat produksi tenun ikat ganda hanya dikenal di tiga dipengaruhi oleh bentuk-bentuk stilasi alam tempat di dunia, yaitu India, Jepang, dan benda, dengan gaya dan ciri khas tersendiri (Heru Indonesia. Di Indonesia yang hingga kini masih Suhersono, 2011). Di dalam kamus bahasa memproduksi tenun ikat ganda berada di desa Indonesia, motif berarti corak/pola (G. Setya Tenganan Pegringsingan, Bali. Tenun ikat ganda Nugraha, 2013). Berdasarkan beberapa pengertian yang diproduksi di desa Tenganan Pegeringsingan, tersebut, dapat disimpulkan, motif adalah Bali disebut dengan tenun ikat gringsing. Bali corak/gambar yang didesain dari bagian-bagian merupakan salah satu pulau di Indonesia yang bentuk dengan berabgai macam garis atau dari masih memproduksi tenun ikat pakan yang disebut berbagai elemen yang membuat kain tampak dengan endek dan tenun ikat ganda. menarik. Ragam hias terdiri dari kata ragam yang berarti Aryo Sunaryo (2106, p. 16) mengelompokkan motif macam/jenis dan hias dapat berarti memperelok sebagai sebagai berikut: (1) motif geometris; (2) dengan sesuatu tambahan (G. Setya Nugraha, motif manusia; (3) motif binatang; (4) motif 2013: 238). Maka ragam hias berarti segala tumbuh-tumbuhan; (5) motif benda-benda alam macam/jenis yang ditambahkan untuk dan pemandangan; (6) benda-benda teknologis; memperelok sesuatu benda/barang. Ragam hias dan (7) galigrafi. biasa disebut juga ornamen. Ornamen berasal dari bahasa Latin dari kata “ornare” yang artinya Tenun ikat ganda, yaitu ragam hias pada kain menghiasi. Ornamen adalah komponen produk tampil sebagai akibat dari ikatan baik dari ikatan seni yang ditambahkan atau sengaja dibuat untuk benang pakan maupun lungsinnya. Ragam hias tujuan sebagai hiasan. Jadi, berdasarkan akan terbentuk apabila persilangan kedua benang pengertian itu, ornamen merupakan penerapan tersebut tepat pada titik pertemuan bagian-bagian hiasan pada suatu produk (Gustami 1978 di dalam desain. Elemen-elemen pembentuk desain Aryo Sunaryo, 2009:3). Berdasarkan pengertian terdapat pada bentangan benang lungsi maupun ragam hias tersebut diatas, maka ragam hias pakannya (Tim Fakultas Teknik, Universitas Negeri adalah segala macam/jenis komponen produk seni Surabaya, 2001). Ciri-ciri tenun ikat ganda, yaitu: yang ditambahkan dengan sengaja yang dibuat (1) hampir serupa dengan kain tenun ikat lungsi, untuk memperelok suatu benda/barang. tetapi lebih tipis, dengan ukuran lebar 50 cm dan panjang 200 cm; dan (2) pada kedua ujung kain Aryo Sunaryo (2009, p.15) mengelompokkan terdapat rumbai-rumbai. ragam hias menjadi tiga, antara lain: (1) ragam hias Geometris, yaitu ragam hias yang terdiri dari garis- Tenun ikat gringsing menunjukkan adanya prinsip garis lurus atau lengkung dan raut persegi-segi desain yang sama, yaitu motif yang disusun pada atau lingkaran; (2) ragam hias Organis, yaitu titik tengah kain yang selanjutnya terbagi lagi mencitrakan obyek-obyek di alam, yang dapat dengan mengatur motif dengan berbagai cara, dibagi menjadi beberapa jenis, diantaranya misalnya disusun secara horisontal dan vertikal. manusia, binatan/fauna, dan tumbuh- Secara umum kain tenun ikat gringsing diberi tumbuhan/flora; (3) ragam hias Realis, yaitu nama buah atau bunga. Selain itu juga terdapat bentuk yang sesuai dengan kenyatakaan, yang nama yang tidak memiliki arti tertentu. Dalam merupakan gubahan (stilasi bentuk-bentuk yang beberapa kain tenun ikat gringsing, penomoran terdapat d alam sekitar tanpa banyak mengubah Bali juga digunakan ke dalam penamaan motif tampilan fisiknya; (4) ragam hias Dekoratif, yaitu tenun ikat gringsing. Keterangan lebih lanjut ragam hias yang menampkkan ciri-ciri yang tidak menunjukkan bahwa penomoran Bali tersebut menunjukkan volume keruangan, tanpa perspektif, mengacu pada lebar dari kain tenun ikat gringsing. dan bersifat datar; dan (5) ragam hias Abstrak, yaitu menunjukkan bentuk yang sulit dikenali, METODE PENELITIAN karena obyek-obyek yang digambarkan digubah Jenis Penelitian sedemikian jauh mengalami perubahan dan Penelitian ini merupakan penelitian deskriptif penyederhanaan. kualitatif, yang akan menggambarkan, menguraikan, menjelaskan dan menerangkan Berdasarkan Kamus Mode Indonesia, motif adalah dalam bentuk kata dan kalimat mengenai deskripsi corak atau gambar pada kain yang membuat kain ragam hias motif Dinding Ai dan Sanan Empeg 28 Jurnal Da Moda tenun ikat geringsing, yang diproduksi di desa peneliti dari hasil observasi yang diperoleh dari Tenganan Pegeringsingan, Bali. tangan pertama atau subjek penelitian (informan) melalui proses wawancara. Data sekunder adalah Metode Penelitian data yang diperoleh secara tidak langsung melalui Metode merupakan suatu cara yang dipakai. Metode dapat diartikan sebagai prosedur atau sumber tangan kedua atau ketiga. Jenis data rangkaian cara yang sistematik dalam menggali sekunder dapat berupa gambar-gambar, kebenaran ilmiah dalam rangka melahirkan dokumentasi, grafik, manuscrif, tulisan-tulisan sejumlah pengetahuan (Mukhtar 2013). Metode tangan dan berbagai dokumentasi lainnya penelitian yang akan digunakan pada penelitian (Mukhtar, 2013). “Deskripsi Ragam Hias Motif Dinding Ai dan Sanan Empeg Tenun Ikat Geringsing”, yaitu metode Deskriptif. Metode deskriptif adalah pencarian Tenik penngumpulan data primer dan sekunder fakta dengan interpretasi yang tepat. Metode yang akan digunakan pada penelitian ini, antara deskriptif adalah metode penelitian untuk lain: (1) studi pustaka yang berupa kajian teori dan membuat gambaran mengenai situasi atau beberapa pelenelitian serupa yang telah dilakukan kejadian, sehingga metode ini berkehendak sebelumnya; (2) teknik observasi yang dilakukan mengadakan akumulasi data dasar (Mukhtar, secara langsung dengan pengamatan langsung; (3) 2013). teknik wawancara yang dilakukan dengan cara Populasi, Sampel, dan Subyek Penelitian. meminta keterangan atau jawaban terhadap Objek penelitian dapat juga berarti sasaran pertanyaan-pertanyaan secara langsung kepada penelitian. Objek penelitian “Deskripsi Ragam Hias para pelaku usaha tenun ikat Geringsing yang Motif Dinding Ai dan Sanan Empeg Tenun Ikat disebut dengan responden; dan (4) teknik geringsing”, yaitu mengenai penjelasan ragam hias dokumentasi, yang berupa pengumpulan yang terdapat pada motif Dinding Ai dan Sanan dokumen-dokumen dan pengambilan foto-foto Empeg tenun ikat Geringsing yang terkait dengan tenun ikat Geringsing. Subjek penelitian adalah orang yang berada dalam situasi sosial yang ditetapkan sebagai pemberi Instrumen Penelitian informasi dalam sebuah penelitian atau dikenal Instrumen penelitian adalah alat yang digunakan
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