Antarctic

Contents

Foreword by Sir Vivian Fuchs Forthcoming Events Cover Story Scott Base 40 Years Ago by Margaret Bradshaw... Cover: Main: How Scott Base looks International today. Three Attempt a World Record Photo — Courtesy of Antarctica New Zealand Library. Solo-Antarctic Crossing National Programmes New Zealand United States of America France Australia Insert: Scott Base during its South Africa final building stage 1957. Photo — Courtesy of Guy on Warren. Education December 1996, Tourism Volume 1 4, No. 4, Echoes of the Past Issue No.l 59 Memory Moments Relived. ANTARCTIC is published quar terly by the New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., ISSN Historical 01)03-5327, Riddles of the Antarctic Peninsula by D Yelverton. Editor: Shelley Grell Please address all editorial Tributes inquiries and contributions to the Editor, P O Box -104, Sir Robin Irvine Christchurch or Ian Harkess telephone 03 365 0344, facsimile 03 365 4255, e-mail Book Reviews [email protected].

DECEMBER 1996 Antargic

Foreword By Sir Vivian Fuchs

All the world's Antarcticians will wish to congratulate New Zealand on maintaining Scott Base for the last forty years, and for the valuable scientific work which has been accom plished. First established to receive the Crossing Party of the Commonwealth Trans- Antarctic Expedition 1955-58, it also housed the New Zealand P a r t y w o r k i n g f o r t h e International Geophysical Year. Today the original huts have been replaced by a more modern„. , j . . , Sir and Edmund Hillary extensive and Dr. V E. base; Fuchs join •' forces at . Depot , . , . ., 700, established by the New Zealand party 700 miles south but chancing to arrive there on . •' r J a,., i • .i j ,,m, , of Scott Base. Photo from Antarctic Bulletin No. 9, March 1958. my 86th birthday in 1996,1 was happy to find that one of the S|> VMan and Sir Edmund are both life members huts I knew in the fifties had of the New Zealand Antarctic Society. been preserved as a museum. I know that Sir Edmund Hillary, the first leader at Scott Base, will join in recognising the sense of pride which all New Zealanders can feel about their nation's Antarctic work — long may it continue Forthcoming Events Scott Base 40th Anniversary Events, arranged for 20-22 January 1997 — Antarctic New Zealand hosts early 1997 in Christchurch, will include: visit to Scott Base for 40th Anniversary. Guests to include the Prime Minister and Sir Edmund Hillary. Business function at Antarctic Visitor Centre (A TVNZ crew will be making a documentary about (Chamber of Commerce) Sir Edmund's life). Antarctic fancy dress ball for public (Visitor Centre). April 1997 Opening of the Antarctic Heritage Trail (Antarctic Antarctic Heritage Trust 10th Anniversary Heritage Trust/ Christchurch City Council) Opening of Photographic Exhibition outlining Historic display and book on Scott Base New Zealand's involvement in TAE/IGY. (Antarctic Society) Organised by New Zealand Antarctic Society- Children's Antarctic Treaty Consultative Launch of "Scott Base — New Zealand's Frozen Meeting (ICAIR/Learnz) Frontier", Outlining the history of Scott Base. Art Auction (Antarctic Heritage Trust) Written by David Harrowfield for the New Book Launch (Warren Herrick) Zealand Antarctic Society. Antarctic Gateways Sister Cities Conference (Christchurch City Council) 16-18 April 1997 — "Antarctic Science Beyond 2000". Working Group Coordinator — Clive Pearson, MEAT New Zealand Antarctic Science Strategy Workshop 20-22 January 1997 — TAE/IGY reunion in 19 April 1997 — Scott Base Grand Reunion Dinner. Christchurch in celebration of Scott Base 40th Organiser — Jim McGregor, New Zealand Antarctic Anniversary. Organiser — John Claydon Society

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic cover story 40 Years Ago — The Establishment of Scott Base

By Margaret Bradshaw preliminary Antarctic experience was For over 30 years following New gained by some members of the New Zealand's acceptance of responsibility for Zealand team. Trevor Hatherton, the Ross Dependency from Britain in geophysicist and leader of the five man 1923, the government showed little IGY team who would share the base with interest in mounting its own national the TAE party, together with Lt programme. Commander Bill Smith (Royal NZ Navy) In the early 1950's, the second and geologist Bernie Gunn, went south International Geophysical Year (IGY) was with US Deep Freeze 1 to select a site for being planned, and an idea was sparked the New Zealand base in McMurdo by a British Antarctic scientist, Dr Vivian Sound, a site that would allow access onto Fuchs, for a Commonwealth Trans- the Polar Plateau, as well as be easily Antarctic crossing similar to that first approached by shipping. Following the attempted by Shackleton in 1914. route pioneered by Scott's 1902 party, and Early in 1955, New Zealand finally with no prior experience of polar travel, committed itself to provide an Antarctic the three New Zealanders hauled up the base from which scientific measurements Ferrar and upper Taylor Glaciers and could be made over the IGY period, and climbed Beehive Mountain. Valuable which would also be the terminal point lessons were learned over the 320 kilome for a Trans-Antarctic Expedition (TAE). tres covered, not the least being that With Sir Edmund Hillary as leader, stronger crampons were needed for the New Zealand would play a major support hard blue ice, for they had broken eight role by establishing a route on the Ross Sea side for the crossing party and laying •-- depots for them. The Ross Sea Committee was set up to organise New Zealand's involve ment, and 32 men were nj selected from 665 appli- r r=uipij.wj.|i|fl cants. Two other New Zealanders, George Lowe and Brian Flaslop, were i invited by the British to f join the crossing party. Thellie Endea; Endeavour leaving Bluff11.30pm, 21 December 1956, During the southern wftnwith wuwinter and summer staff suitably dressed for the summer of 1955-56, preceding Civic Farewell Banquet.

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic sets on the journey. A base site was ence. The ship became trapped in the ice selected near Butter Point. for a frustrating three weeks. When a During the same summer, Ed Hillary, small pool opened, John Claydon made a his deputy Bob Miller and Squadron difficult take-off in the float-equipped Leader John Claydon, travelled south to Auster and successfully searched for a the Weddell Sea with Vivian Fuchs lead into open water. Once the proposed aboard the Theron, a Canadian arctic base site was selected and unloading sealer chartered by the TAE. Their objec began, the ship was torn from its moor tive was to establish Shackleton Base as ings in a sudden blizzard and blown the starting point for the following year's away from the ice edge, leaving five crossing. Gordon Haslop and George people, one of them Bob Miller, stranded Lowe were also on board. The plan was to with minimal shelter and little food. The leave an advance party of eight men who men had to wait 24 anxious hours before would erect a prefab hut and live in it the Theron was able to return to take them over the winter. Five tracked vehicles, 20 back on board. huskies with their kennels and a large On the other side of the continent, quantity of stores were also left. mountain guide Harry Ayres was The notoriously unpredictable attached to the Australian programme Weddell Sea ice provided the New for the relief of Mawson Base, and also Zealand party with some valuable experi- visited the Russian Mirny Base. When he returned to New Zealand, Ayres brought Scott Base personnel — with him 26 sledge dogs that had been tae/igy team wintering over bred at Mawson and generously Sir Edmund Hillary, Leader. presented to the New Zealand team. (Bob) Holmes Miller, Deputy Leader, Stores. It was now time to raise funds, plan George Marsh, Medical officer, Dog handler. logistics and train the team. A great deal Harry Ayres, Ice expert, Dog handler. more money was required than the Murray Ellis, Engineer Officer. Bernie Gunn, Geologist, Photographer. £50,000 granted by the government, and Richard Brooke, Dog handler, Surveyor. the nation rallied round with all manner Roy Carlyon, Surveyor, Navigator. of fund raising ideas, ranging from selling Murray Douglas, Mountaineer, Dog handler. guinea pigs and tadpoles to giving very Guyon Warren, Geologist. well attended lectures. Ron Balham, Meteorologist, Biologist. Jim Bates, Mechanic. Many firms gave help in kind. BPNew Ernest Bucknell, Cook. Zealand donated all the oil, petrol and Trevor Hatherton, Leader IGY science party. lubricants the party would need, while Peter Macdonald, Geophysicist. Massey-Ferguson gave five Ferguson Vern Gerrard, Geophysicist. farm tractors, three of which reached the "Herbie" Orr, Geophysical Technician. Neil Sandford, Mechanician. pole. The government purchased an John Claydon, Commanding Officer RNZAF. Auster aircraft and the Falkland Island Bill Cranfield, Pilot. ship John Biscoe, which was renamed Wally Tarr, Engineer. Endeavour. Personnel were seconded from Peter Mulgrew, Senior Radio Operator. the Navy, Army and Air Force to support John Gawn, Radio Operator. the expedition.

124 DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

In May 1956, the RNZAF Antarctic Summer Staff Flight was formed at Wigram, with Derek Wright, Cine-cameraman. Squadron Leader John Claydon and Peter Tate, RNZ Antarctic Flight. Flying Officer Bill Canfield as pilots, and Arthur Helm, Administration & postal. Sergeant Wally Tarr as engine fitter. A Geoffrey Martin, Journalist. second plane, a Beaver, was provided by Ron Barwick, Biologist, artist. Arnold Heine, Toolmaker, Mountaineer. the Ross Sea Committee and aptly named J. Findlay, Medical Officer. City of Auckland as most of the purchase Jim Hoffman, Explosives & drilling. money had been raised in Auckland. Randal Heke, Foreman building team. The Mawson dogs, now totalling 34 in Ron Mitchell, Architectural Assistant. CPO Zane Price, Shaipwright artificer. number, were increased by a further 12 CPO Eric Voison, Shipwright artificer. from Greenland which were brought over EM K. Boyd, Electrician. on the Endeavour. The plan was to train L-C Noel Sinclair, Carpenter-joiner. both dogs and the men at Mount Cook, L-C Ernie Becconsell, Electrician. with George Marsh and Richard Brooke L-C Albert Edwards, Carpenter-joiner. from Britain having the responsibility of producing three working dog teams. Antarctic supply drops. A problem was In August the 18 men selected for the experienced when bundles on one side TAE team (base and field) and the five only released, causing unequal drag, but selected for the IGY group assembled on this was eventually cured. the upper Tasman Glacier, using the old Meanwhile, New Zealand's Antarctic Malte Brun hut as their base. All aspects base was being designed. Frank Ponder, of training had to be covered, the most architect with the Ministry of Works, was important being the interaction of dog- given the difficult job of fast drafting a teams, aircraft, men, radio communica design, acquiring the materials from tion and supply drops. overseas, and prefabricating the building. Both aeroplanes were taken to Mount He rose magnificently to the occasion, Cook, but the first landing by Claydon, though it is doubtful if he would wish to accompanied by Hillary, showed up an repeat that ten months experience. assembly fault which caused the ski to Ponder's design was for six huts, sepa retract when landing on snow. Claydon rated by covered ways of corrugated iron later had an even more uncomfortable to allow access in even the worst of moment in the Auster while testing a weathers and to lessen the risk of fire special wheel-ski. The ski failed and the spreading. The insulated walls, manufac plane did a spectacular flip, causing tured in Australia, had an aluminium considerable damage to the plane. outer skin and an "Asbestolux" fireproof After being repaired on site, then inner surface. buried by a snow storm, the Auster was All huts were connected by telephone successfully flown out for further modifi and an alarm system. Although intended cations. Bomb racks had been fitted to the for only three years use, Ponder was Beaver, and bundles of sheep carcases confident that the base buildings would and horse meat for the dogs were be in "first-class order in 100 years time". dropped on to the glacier as practice for His confidence proved to be justified, for DECEMBER 1996 125 Antarctic the buildings provided a cosy home for approach to Hallett, the Arneb became New Zealanders on the ice for nearly 30 holed and suffered propeller damage years before they were replaced by larger, when it was pinched between two ice continuous, and perhaps less appealing flows. Afterwards, the party was off structures. The original mess hut loaded and 12 buildings were erected remains, although moved a short distance following the displacement of some 8000 from its original site. Adelie penguins. Three Army and three Navy men were On 15 December, a week after the US seconded to erect the buildings in convoy had departed, the Endeavour left Antarctica, overseen by Randall Heke Wellington with the balance of the New and Ron Mitchell. The base was assem Zealand team, including all the summer bled in Wellington to make sure every staff. The ship first visited Lyttelton thing was present and in good working where it received a visit from Prince order. On the last day, the buildings were Philip and Antarctic veteran Sir Raymond opened to an interested public, but the Priestly, geologist with Scott's last expe schedule was so tight that dismantling dition. The Endeavour cast off on the night had to begin before the last person had of 16 December, but when leaving dock, left. Each component of the huts, down to the wing of the Auster stored on deck, bags of nuts and bolts, was carefully caught the side of an adjacent ship and marked to help re-assembly in Antarctica. was badly damaged. The ship stopped By the end of October 1956, the again in Dunedin to take on the Endeavour had arrived in Wellington, remainder of the dogs, and the plane was unfortunately with serious water damage left for repairs. After a final stop at Bluff to stores destined for the New Zealand to pick up dog mutton, the Endeavour programme, which had to be quickly turned its bow towards the south on 21 replaced. Sixteen New Zealanders went December. south on the US icebreaker Glacier, and The New Zealand frigates Hawea and three were aboard the John R. Towle along Pukaki accompanied the Endeavour with a huge amount of New Zealand shortly after the Antarctic Circle which cargo and 24 of the dogs. was crossed on 27 December and the first In the same US convoy was the pack ice was encountered. Once through icebreaker Northwind and the cargo ship the pack, the Endeavour met heavy seas. Arneb, the latter carrying three New A nasty roll of 47 degrees and a huge Zealand scientists Bill Ingham, John wave smashed six dog cages without Humphries and Mike Langevad, who injuries to the dogs. The front of the were to be part of the first joint American- Beaver crate was also stove in, saturating New Zealand IGY winter-over team at the plane with sea water. When fast sea the new Hallett Station. ice was met near Beaufort Island, the Originally this base was planned for Glacier came out to clear a way, and on 3 Ridley Beach near Cape Adare and called January the Endeavour moored 13 kilome Adare Station, but this site was found to tres east of Butter Point. be unsuitable, and the Cape Hallett Spit Three days of ground reconnaissance was selected instead. During the made it clear that Butter Point would be 126 DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

Scott Base under construction, December 1956. impossible to reach from the ship with was fortuitously jammed by the sledge cargo, so Admiral Dufek of the US Navy behind, and didn't sink. They were flew Ed Hillary and Bob Miller by heli lucky; only five days before an American copter to inspect an alternative site at had been drowned in a similar mishap. Pram Point on Ross Island. The site had Once the Endeavour had been good access over the sea ice from the ice unloaded, the men were kept busy edge, and there appeared to be an easy moving the large quantity of New route onto the McMurdo ice shelf south Zealand cargo from the Towle. At Pram wards. The decision was made to estab Point, once the New Zealanders had lish the base on the relatively level blasted their way into the hard ground of Pram point at about 15 metres permafrost with low temperature explo above sea level. sives, Admiral Dufek arranged for a 35 After leaving George Marsh, Harry tonne bulldozer and a team of US Seabees Ayres, Richard Brooke and Murray Ellis to level the Scott Base site under the able at Butter Point to acclimatise the dogs and supervision of Lt. Dick Bowers who had make a recce up the Ferrar, the Endeavour just finished building South Pole Station. moved across McMurdo Sound and tied Bob Miller, Randall Fleke and Jim up at the ice edge about 13 kilometres Hoffman, a New Zealand explosives north of the base site. Cargo was expert, spent the night of 12 January in unloaded and transported by the New tents at the site, and the construction of Zealand weasels and tractors, but it was the base started the following day. Hearing the end of the summer, the ice In just two days "A" hut was finished. was becoming thin, and the work was not Destined to be the party's mess hut, it without its mishaps. A weasel carrying initially served as sleeping quarters for Ed Hillary, Trevor Hatherton and Peter the builders. Everyone was busy, not the Mulgrew broke through the ice, and least John Claydon, Bill Cranfield and though the cab was awash, the vehicle Wally Tarr who had cleaned and assem- DECEMBER 1996 127 Antarctic bled the Beaver plane which made its first the same flagpole that Scott had used ice flight on 15 January. outside his Discovery Hut in 1903. The On 20 January Scott Base was officially ceremony was a special occasion, attended dedicated by Captain Harold Ruegg, by the ever helpful Admiral Dufek and Administrator for the Ross Dependency. other US officers. New Zealand, at last, The New Zealand flag was hoisted for the had a firm presence in Antarctica. first time, raised by the youngest New To be continued in the March and June Zealander, Able Seaman Ramon Tito, on issues of Antarctic. international Three Attempt a World Record Solo-Antarctic Crossing

In the last issue of Antarctic we revealed that the world-renowned explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes would attempt a solo crossing of the Antarctic this summer. It is now confirmed that on 15 November 1996, after three weekends waiting for an improvement in the weather, Ran did indeed embark on his lone challenge to cross the Antarctic continent unsupported and single- handed. But he is not the only man attempting to I create a new world record. Anne Kershaw from Adventure Network International, based in Chile this season, revealed that Borge Ousland (Norwegian), and Marek Kaminski (Polish) will be racing against Fiennes for the record. Roger Mears (British), who made a valiant though unsuccessful attempt last year, and Peter Valusiak (Slovakian) were unable to compete in this race because of insufficient funds. The route that the three men will follow indepen dently will be from sea level at Berkner Island across the Filchner ice shelf and via the South Pole to a finish at New Zealand's Scott Base. The total distance covered will be 1,800 statute miles/2,900 km/1,500 nautical miles, and the journey is expected to take 90 to 110 days. They are currently all doing well and making good progress. (Right) Photos of Sir Ranulph Fiennes training in the sno'w Courtesy of Dyson Antarctic Solo Expedition

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

More Expedition News from the Ice

Anne Kershaw and her team from Treaty Consultative Meeting to be held Adventure Network International are in in Christchurch from 19-30 May 1997. At constant contact via radio and satellite the meeting — the first of its kind held in link with three other expeditions from New Zealand in 25 years — three Korea, Britain and France. hundred delegates from 43 countries are The six person Korean Group, 'Dream expected to endorse an environmental and Adventure', is lead by Ho Young protocol for the Antarctic. This would Heo — who previously reached all three prohibit mining on the continent for 50 poles (North, South and Mount Everest). years and establish new standards of They will cross Antarctica along the environmental protection. same route as Fiennes and will also be The Antarctic Environmental unsupported. The British group, 'Scott II Protocol, otherwise known as the Expedition' has two former British Madrid Protocol, is one of several agree Antarctic Survey team members and is ments adopted under the Antarctic lead by former leukemia sufferer, Lloyd Treaty System. It contains a series of Scott. And, last but not least, a French rules on waste disposal, environmental woman, Laurence de la Ferierre, is impact assessment, marine pollution, the walking solo and unsupported from conservation of plants, wildlife and Hercules Inlet, at the head of the Ronne protected areas, plus recommendations Iceshift near the Ellsworth mountains,to to eliminate the excesses of the past. the South Pole. Both the British group These rules will further be discussed at and de la Ferierre will leave from the meeting. Hercules Inlet and will be picked up by The protocol was adopted by 26 coun air from the Pole. tries in 1991, but ratification by all the Another group will be attempting to countries is required for the protocol to cross the Antarctic, from McMurdo via come into force. On 1 October President the South Pole to Patriot Hills, the Bill Clinton committed the United States reverse direction to that of Fiennes and to the protocol leaving Japan, Russia and the Korean group. The three men are Jeff Finland as the only three nations with Summers, Crispen Day and Robert Antarctic activities who have not signed Swan. This is Robert's first Antarctic the agreement. expedition since his 'In the Footsteps of Scott Expedition' 10 years ago. They will, however, be supported with a mid way Japan Culls More Minke drop at the Pole. Whales Early November saw the departure of a Japanese whaling vessel, Nisshin Maru, Protocol Endorsement for to hunt a further 440 minke whales in the the Antarctic Antarctic under the name of 'science'. Environmental issues will be the main In September, a Japanese whaling fleet topic of discussion at the Antarctic has already returned with 77 whales and DECEMBER 1996 129 Antarctic the previous April they returned with argues that cutting open the whales is 440 whales. essential to study their reproductive Japan has annually hunted whales for rate and age, as well as to investigate research purposes in a government how they have been affected by marine programme that began in 1987, a year pollution. Once the research is complete after the International Whaling on each whale the meat is processed Commission (IWC) voted to ban and distributed to restaurants and other commercial whaling. The kills, though markets. widely criticised, are considered legal The Greenpeace and World Wide because the ban left each nation with Fund for Nature is calling for interna the option of conducting research. tional pressure to halt Japan's whaling Japan claims that the research is activities as many say the research needed to accurately gauge whale programme is an attempt by Japan to populations, ages and migrations and keep the whaling industry alive.

Chlorine Pollutants worsen Antarctic Ozone Depletion

In October 1996 the spring ozone hole recorded by the National Institute of IWA Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA) reached a low of 140 Dobson The 1996 Antarctic Ozone Hole units. Record low for Arrival Fleights was 129 units in 1995. Satellite data from NASA revealed a circular area of very low ozone concentration of 25 million square kilometres covering the Antarctic. Readings at the centre of the hole were about 115 Dobson units, near last year's minimum, which represented a 60% loss on pre- 1980 levels. The ozone depletion over Antarctica had developed e x c e p t i o n a l l y r a p i d l y s i n c e September but was of similar size 6 October 1996 and intensity to the record holes of This Hole is similar to the record Hole of 1993. the last three years. It has reached its greatest size and depth for 1996. The depletion of the normally 300 65% of South Pole ozone has vanished. Dobson unit thick ozone layer is trig gered by sunlight, cold spring Protocol and New Zealand's Ozone Layer temperatures and chlorine pollutants Protection Act 1991, the 70 million tonnes of from CFC's. Despite international CFC gasses already present in the atmos legislation designed to phase out the phere is expected to affect the ozone for at use of CFC's, including the Montreal least another 20 years.

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

Out of the Cold and into a Net It was once thought that young emperor penguins spent their whole lives in Antarctic waters. But evidence from radio transmitters attached to the young birds now show that they prefer the warmer waters — where fishermen roam and beyond the protec tion of international treaties. The birds were thought to be confined largely to the Ross Sea that cuts deep into the Antarctic continent. But, when US zoologist, Gerald Kooyman, was trying to solve where the young birds go in their early years, he noticed they took a hard left and headed due north towards the Southern Ocean — an area outside the protection of the Antarctic Treaty which ends at 60° South. One bird even travelled as far as 2800 kilometres in the three months before the transmitter failed. Although the penguins may not be in imminent danger, this could change as global fishing fleets expand their search for fish. Kooyman's work reinforces growing concerns that no species is entirely protected by agreements such as the Antarctic Treaty and the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources.

Chains & Stanchions under Effects of Cancelled US Threat at Discovery Hut MIDWINTER AIRDROP As part of a US waste disposal The first US Air Force flight, in prepara programme fuel tanks, pump house and tion for the 1996-7 Antarctic season, set the fuel pipe line from the pier to the off from Christchurch on the 20 August. pump house have been removed from As the National Science Foundation's US Hut Point. Decisions to block off the road Antarctic Program (USAP) cancelled the to Hut Point and the possible removal of midwinter drop earlier this year, the the chain and stanchions surrounding flight was the first outside human contact Discovery Hut, are currently under for wintering over parties at McMurdo consideration. The clean-up, which was and Scott Base since February. approved by the Antarctic Heritage Trust, Since 1980, a US Air Force C-141 trans will enable a view of Scott's Discovery port aeroplane has delivered fresh food, Hut in the more remote context it was mail, supplies and equipment via a much first built in'. welcomed midwinter airdrop to the Only a couple of utility poles and a wintering populations on Ross Island. transformer from the fuel system will Due to a reduced budget, this is now no remain as these are required to provide longer the case. electricity to a small science project The two day airdrop usually occurred involving an air quality monitoring on or around Midwinter's Day, the station. When this project is complete in austral winter solstice, in late June. At one or two years, these will also be this time of year temperatures are too removed. The present clean-up effort will low for aeroplanes to land at either be completed in January once the moni McMurdo or the South Pole so refuelling toring project is shut down for the season. is not possible. A tanker aeroplane used DECEMBER 1996 131 Antarctic to accompany the C-141 to refuel it in flight. Materials for the drop, packed in Commemorative Plaque for sturdy corrugated cardboard containers Scott Base with low altitude, high velocity' para In January 1997 a plaque commemo chutes attached, were loaded into the rating the 40th anniversary of Scott cargo hold of the aeroplane while Base will be mounted on a rock cairn personnel at Amundsen-Scott South Pole by Antarctica New Zealand. Station marked an area near the station Organised by Bill Cranfield, aircraft as a target for the drop. Flying low over pilot with the New Zealand part of the the marked area, the air crew pushed the Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic containers out of the aeroplane hitting Expedition, and designed by the ground at 60 mph to the waiting crew Christchurch art student, Harriet on the ground. Bailey, the stainless steel plaque Biologists studying emperor penguins commemorates the raising of the New also used the flights to study the only Zealand flag back in 1957. It also lists penguin species that breeds during the wintering members of the New austral winter. By using a night-vision Zealand Support Party of the British intensifier' the biologists were able to Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic observe one of the six emperor colonies Expedition and New Zealand scientists along the western Ross Sea. The winter supporting International Geophysical lives of these penguins were little known Year. until now because the harsh conditions of winter restricted scientists to ground Bob Wharton in The Dry Valleys, among observations at sites near a few rookeries. other sites and individuals. The scientists had hoped to utilise the supply flights again to learn more about The last NASU this important part of the penguin COMMANDING OFFICER breeding cycle. By March 1998, after the Antarctic season, US Antarctic support will become the responsibility of the Air BBC Horizon films life National Guard due to a cost cutting in the Antarctic measure. Commander John Stoz, who This month a film crew from the BBC will was appointed in July, is therefore be on the ice to shoot three one-hour likely to be the last commanding officer shows on Antarctic science and scien for the US Naval Antarctic Support Unit tists' lives during deployments with both (NASU). According to Commander USAP and the British Antarctic Survey. Stoz, the move would not have any The team will film McMurdo biology bearing on America's future involve projects, South Pole science and tourism, ment in Antarctica as most of the units projects at the ice edge, Scott's Hut, Ralph operations would be contracted out. Harvey at Allan Hills, Siple Dome, Phil NASU is part of Operation Deep Kyle at Boomerang Range and Mt. Erebus, Freeze, a joint military operation of the and Dave Merchant, Diana Freckman and US armed Forces and the New Zealand

132 DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

Defence Force which provides logistic the Navy by the Air National Guard, a support for the US National Science newly manufactured Hercules LC-130 Foundation's Antarctic Programme, the aircraft was flown to Antarctica on 2 New Zealand Antarctic programme and December. A ceremony was held to the Italian Antarctic Programme. As christen the plane City of part of the gradual take over process of Christchurch'. national programmes New Zealand

1996/7 Summer Research is Underway

On 2 October the first flight of the summer Antarctic research season left for McMurdo Sound. On board the US Air Force CI41 Starlifter were the first New Zealand scien tists, physicists from Canterbury University, who will use radar equipment to study the poorly understood Antarctic atmosphere 40 and 100 kilometres above Scott Base. liHtaMlilBMalfiBai spanning biological, geological, atmospheric and environmental sciences.

Biology and Geology in La Gorce Mountains

Currently there is little knowledge of scientists Graeme Claridge and Iain life at the highest southern latitudes. Campbell spent six days examining However, this month Dr Paul Broady of soils. They collected just two samples the University of Canterbury hopes to for microbiological analysis but when correct this balance by leading an inter cultured these produced no growths. national team of four to make the first Also, they recorded no lichens or detailed survey of the biology of La mosses although sparse lichens were Gorce Mountains. The team, which found further north at 86 deg 20 min includes Richard Weinstien of South. Cambridge University, Trevor Ireland In 1971, the U.S. microbiologist Roy of the National University of Australia Cameron made a brief two and a half and Eric Saxby of Antarctica New hour visit by helicopter. He found a Zealand, will be located at Scott Base n u m b e r o f f r o z e n p o n d s w h i c h and La Gorce Mountains which lie supported meagre growths of algae. 60km north of Mt Howe. These indications of the existence of life Previous botanical and microbiolog suggest that a thorough survey of the ical studies at La Gorce Mountains are region would be worthwhile. Mt Howe few. In 1969, the New Zealand soil is the most southerly rock outcrop in

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic the world and, unfortunately, inacces As sperm competition is one aspect of sible due to extensive crevasse fields. this, it was predicted that sperm choice The major focus of this study will be should also occur. For a monogamous on algae and fungi which grow in this female, constrained in her choice of extreme environment. Geological studies partner, this may mean copulating with a will also be made with an aim to provide high quality male, either prior to re reliable dates and geochemical analysis pairing with her mate of a previous for granites which intrude La Gorce season, or during the time she is paired, Mountains and adjacent nunataks. while maintaining her partner's help in The algae studies will be part of a raising her offspring. long-term programme of understanding Dr Davis had hoped to complete a the taxonomy and ecology of terrestrial second objective, namely the satellite algae in the Ross Sea regions. Similar tracking the winter migration of Adelie investigations have been carried out at penguins. The penguins feed almost lower latitudes, such as those exclusively on krill but, with a dramatic progressing from northern to southern reduction in krill stocks caused by global Victoria Land, Ross Island and Marie warming, they are most vulnerable Byrd Land. during their winter migration, when over The proposed work is a logical progres 25% of adults and 75% of chicks die. sion to high latitudes and is part of a long- Satellite telemetry for monitoring the term aim to produce an algal flora for the penguin migration was expected to poten Ross Sea regions. The fungal studies will tially provide an indirect biological indi form an integral part of a more general cator of the health of the Antarctic investigation of the role of soil fungi in ecosystem. Owing to logistical difficulties niche formation. this unfortunately will now be postponed until next year.

Adelie Penguin Mating and Migration Antarctic Penguin Liver In November, Dr Lloyd Davis and Sue Enzymes Heath of University of Otago, Rob Two scientists from University of Otago Harcourt of Waikato University and Fiona will be on the ice this month to study Hunter of Cambridge University, how Antarctic penguins metabolise or returned from a month's expedition at detoxify foreign compounds to which Scott Base and Cape Bird to study female they may be exposed. behaviour and mechanisms of sperm Accordingly, P450 enzymes are competition in the Adelie penguin. involved in the metabolism and detoxi The aim of the project was to investi fication of many endogenous and gate theories of sexual selection in the foreign compounds, including drugs Adelie penguin. Previous theories and environmental pollutants. There is suggested that males should compete for extensive evidence showing at least 30 females and that females should choose forms of P450 in human liver and 47 in males. rat liver. Different forms of P450 are 134 DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic responsible for biotransformation or for susceptibility to environmental cont detoxification of certain classes of drugs aminants exposure of Adelie penguins. and xenobiotics (foreign compounds). Editors Note: The activities of a particular P450 If you are an honours student inter enzyme in terms of metabolising these ested in conducting this research as foreign compounds, were found to be part of your MSc/PhD Programme different among species. please contact either Dr Sompon Dr Wanwimolruk and his colleague Wanwimolruk Ph.D (Clinical Peter Coville propose to study and iden Pharmacology), Senior Lecturer, School tify P450 enzymes in penguin liver. of Pharmacy, University of Otago, PO Substrate selectivity and specificity of Box 913, Dunedin, New Zealand, Phone each P450 enzyme will be characterised +64 3 479 7293, or Receptionist, School and the information gained from this of Pharmacy, at the University of Otago, study would provide a valuable guide Phone +64 3 479 7275.

Predicting Contaminant Impacts in Antarctica

Apparently, the level of Lake Vanda is rising and scientists fear that it will shortly flood contaminated sites such as the helicopter pad, fuel storage area, and a gully used for greywater disposal throughout the operation of Vanda Station as a New Zealand base. At the end of this month, Jenny and Kerry Webster and Peter Nelson of Institute of Environmental Science and Research in Auckland will return to Lake Vanda, in the Wright Valley, to continue identifying the processes by which specific pollutants released into an Antarctic Dry Valley environment are redistributed and interact with indigenous microbial communities. Part of a collaborative programme between ESR, NIWA and the University of Western Ontario in Canada, the two year research will focus on understanding how cyanobacteria obtain, process, accumulate or restrict the mobility of nutrients, heavy metals and hydrocarbons derived from contaminated soils.

Biodegradation of Oil in Antarctica

Biodegradation of oil in the environment of January at Scott Base investigating the depends on microbial activity, particu use of bioremediation for cleanup of oil larly that of bacteria. However, since contaminated soil in Antarctica. human activity started in Antarctica, The team hope to isolate both cold- significant pollution caused by oil spills tolerant oil degrading bacteria, and the and its effects of biota have been genes involved in oil degradation, reported. directly from Antarctic soils that have Jackie Aislabie of Landcare Research been chronically contaminated with NZ Ltd, Megan Balks of Waikato hydrocarbons. The environmental para University and Julia Foght of University meters that limit biodegradative activity of Alberta will spend the first two weeks in situ will also be investigated. DECEMBER 1996 135 Antarctic Third Quarter Phenomena

In August and October this year, scien wintering- over at Scott Base. The tists from Lincoln University visited purpose of this programme, which is Scott Base to investigate the possible still on-going, is to investigate the rela existence of what is called the "third tionship between personality variables quarter" phenomenon (Bechtel) — and fluctuations in mood, morale and where mood and morale reaches a low group cohesiveness occurring in ebb shortly after the mid-way point of isolated groups over the course of an the winter season. Antarctic year. Dr Gary Steele, Rachelle Allan and The team hope that the results of this Emma Stewart used multiple tech research will address fundamental niques (ie interviews, standardised, questions regarding the temporal non-clinical psychological scales, and processes of emotions and motivation, written self-reports) to monitor mood and will aid both station managers and and morale over the course of training, staff in planning for the challenges of deployment, and re-entry of individuals long- term stays on ice. United States

Antarctic Science Season Gears Up with Searches For Meteorites, Neutrinos, and New Life Forms

This season the National Science attempting to understand the role of the Foundation is supporting approximately Southern Ocean in the global cycle of 145 Antarctic investigations. The carbon, and ultimately to predict the programmes include a series of cruises in ocean's response to climate change. the Southern Ocean to trace carbon Thirteen cruises aboard two ships cycling associated with plankton blooms; will take place from September 1996 to drilling to assess the stability of the March 1998 as part of a decade-long massive ice sheets; and an expedition to Joint Global Ocean Flux Study (JGOFS), search for more meteorites on the conti a study of carbon in the world's oceans. nent that yielded ALH84001, the now- This season's cruises will center mainly famous meteorite from Mars that may on the Ross Sea to study Antarctica's contain fossil life. largest and most predictable spring bloom of phytoplankton in these Carbon and Climate in the waters, and its role in the carbon cycle. Southern Ocean Two subsequent cruises will track Scientists led by Robert Anderson of carbon over the season, and investigate Columbia University and Walker Smith how trace metals, especially iron, affect of the University of Tennessee are plant production. 136 DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

Deicing Dynamics of Sea Life The Extremes of The seasonal growth and retreat of sea ice around Antarctica raises questions Archeobacteria about how ice dynamics affect According to biologists, archeobac zooplankton and other animals in the teria, which live in harsh environ ocean's topmost waters (the upper 100 ments, are one of the three major metres). branches of life, in addition to Three cruises in the Weddell Sea and bacteria and eukaryotes (the latter associated studies, under a project led embracing plants, animals, and by Kenneth Smith of the Scripps humans). Archea can live in places Institution of Oceanography, will track where no other life can endure such the ecology of zooplankton and as very hot, salty or low oxygen envi micronekton over one year to capture ronments. Recent studies, however, how dramatic changes in sea-ice cover reveal that archea comprise more affect the animal populations. The than 30 percent of biomass in waters project will develop an instrument to off Palmer Station, the highest rates monitor populations at different depths measured in the ocean. Edward and will launch a remotely- operated DeLong of the University of vehicle to sample and observe animals California will lead a team to study beneath the sea ice. the ecology and biology of archea in the region. Antarctic Martians The possibility that the Mars meteorite, Antarctica is unrivaled in its abun ALH84001, found in Antarctica's Allan dance of meteorites. Since 1976, the Hills may contain fossils of early life Antarctic Search for Meteorites have attracted researchers to search for program has found more than 7800 more. The team led by Ralph Harvey of specimens, including samples of the Case Western Reserve University will Moon and Mars, expanding knowledge return to the Allan Hills and will inves of the primeval nebula that gave birth tigate other locations as well. to the solar system. Vostok: The World's Deepest and Oldest Ice Core

Drilling to complete the world's deepest the past 200,000 years and changing and oldest ice core will continue at concentrations of greenhouse gasses in the Russia's Vostok Station in East Antarctica atmosphere. this season. Some 30 researchers from the The drillers plan to halt at approxi United States, France, and Russia study mately 3650 metres depth, stopping above the ice record which is expected to stretch Lake Vostok, the subglacial lake beneath back perhaps half a million years. Vostok Station that is comparable in size Studies of Vostok's ice have already to Lake Ontario with an average depth of shown a close link between climate over 125 kilometres. DECEMBER 1996 137 Antargic

The lake, and any life it may harbor, tists believe that if living organisms are have apparently been sealed off from the found in the freezing temperatures and atmosphere for hundreds of thousands of high pressures of the lake then this may years. According to the Montreal indicate the possibility of the survival of Antarctic Society newsletter some scien microbial life in Mars.

France

France assists the US to retrieve lost $10 million Telescope Last year one of the world's largest solar Adelie Coast, 1400 kilometres from telescopes circled over Antarctica, taking McMurdo Station, but bad weather advantage of the 24-hour light, to image permitted only the data recorder to be sunspots and to map associated magnetic retrieved. This season, the French fields which are believed to cause solar Antarctic programme will assist the US by flares. The telescope, suspended from a mounting a traverse to recover the balloon giant balloon, was cut down above the and the$10-million telescope.

Australia

Australia's Antarctic programme under Review

During the Tasmanian Governor's Forum example of how the private sector could on the Antarctic in Hobart in contribute. September, the new parliamentary The Antarctic Science Advisory secretary responsible for the Antarctic, Committee (ASAC) has been asked to Senator Ian Campbell, announced a develop strategic options under the review of Australia's Antarctic review, as well as to develop policies programme. He mentioned that there that will ensure the growth in Antarctic was considerable scope for more tourism is managed properly. private sector involvement. Monies raised by allowing companies Plans Underway to Conserve to market Australian Antarctic products Mawson's Huts could be put back into research to help save and better understand the last March next year will see the official great frontier. The AAPIS Mawson Huts launch of a $2m Australian appeal to Foundation (mentioned below) is an conserve Mawson's Huts in the

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

Commonwealth Bay region. The initia Foundation' are being raised to take a tive, which will be launched by Prime 12 person team to the site in December Minister Howard, was created by 1997. These include the sale of a special Australia's news, information and bank note with Sir Douglas Mawson's communications group, AAP. Funds portrait, a special one ounce gold coin f o r t h e A A P M a w s o n ' s H u t s and silver medallions. Antarctic voyage focuses on ocean currents' effect on world climate

Australia's first Antarctic voyage of the (WOCE) which has seen scientists from 40 season was a 34 day international study nations collaborate in a global study of during September on the effect of global oceans. Scientists from the CSIRO ocean currents on the Earth's climate. On Division of Oceanography, the board Aurora Australis were 57 passen Australian Antarctic Division, the gers, including 16 members of wintering Antarctic CRC and other Australian and party for Macquarie Island. The voyage overseas institutions undertook a series of not only saw the annual station experiments aimed at determining changeover and resupply but also impor currents and properties of the waters of tant research programs, including bathy the Southern Ocean between Australian metric work, continuing monitoring of and Antarctica. seals and penguins, and studies of ozone- Other experiments carried out on the depleted stratospheric air — of relevance ship included a survey of fish and to ozone-depleted air now found over plankton, measurements of carbon southern Australia. dioxide in the Southern Ocean, together The voyage also represented the final with a survey of floating ocean debris to stage of Australia's contribution to the determine their origin, ecological signifi World Ocean Current Experiment cance and fate..

South Africa

South Africa New Zealand Antarctic Cruise (sanzac) planned for summer 1998/9

Dr Denzil Miller of the Sea Fisheries Zealand Antarctic Cruise (SANZAC) Institute in Cape Town South Africa expedition results directly from a joint visited Christchurch last month to statement of Antarctic cooperation outline plans for a joint research cruise signed a year ago by South African using the South African ice-breaker MV President Nelson Mandela and New Agulhas. Zealand Prime Minister Jim Bolger. The 90 day South Africa New The expedition will involve scientists

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic from New Zealand universities and opens next month, will be the first Crown research institutes in collabora South African Antarctic base with facil tive studies of Southern Ocean fronts ities for women. and predator-prey relationships in the A large expense for South Africa in sea ice ecosystem, concentrating on Antarctica is the removal of SANAE III. krill, penguins and seals. It has been 16 Since its establishment in 1979, Sanae III years since New Zealand scientists last has sunk 20 metres into the snow and operated an Antarctic research ship. ice making its removal a difficult and South Africa has three bases on the expensive task. The joint venture continent plus an ice-breaker, two between South Africa and New Zealand aircraft and 85 scientists dedicated to its will enable both countries to share programme. SANAE IV, South Africa's Antarctic scientific expertise and help new base in East Antarctica which reduce costs.

Italy

Italian National Antarctic Research Programme

There will be .a few firsts in this seasons and the creation of the joint Italian- 46.3 billion Lire (NZ$425,000) funded French Concordia Station. It is hoped Italian programme. that this base will become a European In October an Italian Military Station. Airforce C-130 aircraft flew to The first season of the ITASE Antarctica to start up operations with a (International Trans-Antarctic Scientific turnover of staff. Expedition) Programme will be carried Scientists will implement an impor out with an initial leg of over 600 km tant geological research programme as from Terra Nova Bay to Talos Dome. well as other research activities in the Finally, real-scale testing of instru Terra Nova Bay area. And, for the first mentation, certified at the ENEA labo time in an Italian expedition, a light ratories, will be carried out on board the aircraft will be used to support scien Russian Geophysika stratospheric tific research and logistics. aircraft for the Airborne Polar On-going activities will increase Experiment project. Over the next two during the establishment of the drilling months the tests will be followed by the camp for the European Polar Ice Coring main programme in both the Arctic and in Antarctica programme at Dome C Antarctic.

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic education Antarctic Scholars Break 25 year Tradition

Over 200 people visiting the ice this Canterbury and Auckland Universities summer have broken a 25 year tradition this year". of holding training near Tekapo, New Canterbury University graduate, Zealand. Instead they are attending the Edward Butler, and Auckland University of Canterbury for orienta University graduates, Cindy Baker and tion and theoretical lectures, and the Hilary Miller, all won scholarships to Antarctic Centre for training in commu conduct research in Antarctica this nications, fire fighting, first aid and summer. field work. Edward will use the $20,000 New Tim Higham at Antarctica New Zealand Post sponsored award to deter Zealand explained that the changes mine the past extent of the Antarctic ice were made to focus training on areas sheet; Cindy will use her $10,000 Kelly where it was most needed and give it a Tarlton's award to study how Antarctic more scientific focus. "Trainee scientists fish sense water currents; and Hilary will especially appreciate the change", he use her $10,000 Antarctica New Zealand said, "such as the three science gradu award to detect low levels of marine ates who won scholarships from pollution through changes in fish genes.

Canadian Arctic-Antarctic Exchange Programme

Now underway is the new Canadian Arctic-Antarctic Exchange Programme aimed at encouraging collaboration among Canadian and non-Canadian Antarctic scientists wishing to undertake joint studies in the respective polar regions. Canada has an increasing interest and role in the Antarctic scientific commu nity and this exchange programme will help to consolidate Canada's interna tional commitments. The Polar Continental Shelf Project (PCSP) currently provides logistic support on a no cost or cost-shared basis to Canadian government, university and inde pendent research scientists working in the Canadian Arctic. Services to scientists from other countries are provided on a full cost recovery basis. Beginning with the 1997 Arctic field, PCSP accepts applications from Canadian scientists wishing to sponsor' Antarctic partners. Once a proposal is approved the non-Canadian collaborators would be eligible for the same type of logistics support from PCSP as all Canadian scientists.

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

Antarctic Education Expands with LEARNZ and NSF TEA

Since the information about Antarctic education programmes appeared on the Internet World Wide Web, those offering courses have been swamped with applications from people all around the world. LEARNZ — Linking Education with Antarctic Research in New Zealand — is a multimedia, contextual education programme developed in association with researchers and experienced teachers. Students whose schools have registered with LEARNZ have a number of opportunities to interact via live audioconferences both from within New Zealand and directly from field locations in Antarctica. Experts in science and Antarctic logistics partici pate in these audioconferences. Each year a teacher gets the opportu Primary teacher Ms Sue Graham and LEARNZ project manager, Peter nity to join the LEARNZ experts on the Sommerville, Antarctica 1996. ice. Photographed with Project manager, Pete Sommerville, is primary National Science Foundation Teacher teacher Ms Sue Graham who recently Experience in Antarctica (NSF TEA) spent two weeks in Antarctica and program began in 1992 as part of the talked during nine audioconferences effort to make Antarctic research more with New Zealand students enrolled accessible to the public. This year 22 with the LEARNZ programme. From a teachers were nominated for the six refrigerated container camp on the sea slots available. Those selected will ice, where scientist Tim Haskill and his team are investigating sea ice proper spend three to four week stints working with research scientists at one of several ties, to Cape Bird where Fiona Hunter Antarctic research stations or on one of and her team are monitoring a colony of the NSF's research vessels. Adelie Penguins, Sue and Pete spoke directly with primary and secondary students. The teacher selected for the The NSF Antarctic Trail 1997 programme is Ms Pauline P a r t o f t h e U S A n t a r c t i c P o l a r Donaldson of St Georges Prep School in Information Programme, is the compila Wanganui. tion of an interactive CD-ROM on The DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

Antarctic Trail (Live from Antarctica 2). Field team members are currently on Kershaw's Kids Programme the ice creating an electronic field trip For two weeks over the Christmas which aims to simulate the challenges period six under-privileged children faced by living and working in the from Poland, UK and the US, between Antarctic. Field team members will try the ages of 14 and 17, will be visiting to understand the type of constraints Patriot Hills in Antarctica free of and logistical considerations that scien charge. tists and support personnel face on the The Kershaw Kids Programme ice each year. started in 1995 in celebration of In January and February, 'Live from Adventure Network's 10th anniver Antarctica-2' will connect US students sary of operations in the Antarctic. It interactively via television and the was so successful that the company Internet with researchers in the hopes to continue the programme into Antarctic Peninsula region and on the the future. R/V Polar Duke. TOURISM New Snow and Ice Experience Opens at the Antarctic Centre

Known as the 'Gateway to the Antarctica', Along with its high tech audio the award winning Christchurch, New visuals, interactive exhibits and live Zealand based International Antarctic displays, the new Snow and Ice Centre unveiled a new world-first Experience' at the Antarctic Visitor attraction for visitors last month. Centre enables visitors to feel what it is

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic actually like to be in Antarctica. A virtual our closest neighbour, Australia, have reality room has been filled with 50 never been in snow", said Centre tonnes of real snow made from a mix of Manager, Richard Benton. "We believe water and nitrogen. this is a world first for the Centre, and In controlled freezing sub-zero we're sure it will add a new dimension to temperatures and biting winds visitors the Antarctic Experience for our visitors". will be able to explore a snow cave, The $7 million Visitor Centre at the toboggan downhill and enjoy some International Antarctic Centre was wintry fun. Available all year round the opened in 1992 by British botanist, new attraction should prove popular to Professor David Bellamy, and since then all visitors. has averaged 200,000 visitors each year. "Asian travellers in particular are keen In November 1992 it won the New to touch and play with real snow, and Zealand Tourism Board's award for Best surprisingly, nearly 75% of tourists from Tourist Attraction.

Qantas Flies over Antarctica Since Qantas reintroduced Antarctic day flights two years ago, the first since 1979, thou sands of passengers have been awe inspired by Antarctica's grandeur. The 15 flight Antarctica Programme in conjunction with Australia's Croydon Travel was the winner of the Environmental Tourism Category in the Victorian Tourism Awards 1995. During this summer Croydon Travel and Qantas will operate a series of flights which have been scheduled from December 1996 through to February 1997. This year the programme will incorporate flights direct from Melbourne, Sydney and Perth aboard the latest Boeing 747-400 aircraft. The day trips take 11.5 to 12.5 hours. Qantas has planned 16 different routings to take advantage of the best weather condi tions. Passengers normally fly over the South Magnetic Pole, the French Base at Dumont d'Urville, Mawson's Hut at Commonwealth Bay, two glaciers and the rugged moun tains of the Transantarctic and Admiralty Ranges. The aircraft will fly figure eights over various points to allow the sights to be viewed on both sides of the aircraft. ECHOES OF THE PAST Antarctic takes you back 40 years with a December 1956 article describing the commence ment of Operation Deep Freeze II... "First Since Scott" "A ski-equipped US Navy Dakota ties were reported. First man to set food piloted by Commander C Shinn on the hard dry snow was Rear- touched down at the Pole at 8.34 pm on Admiral George F. Dufek. He was October 31 while a Globemaster droned followed by six others. overhead on safety station. No difficul The small party left radar reflectors 144 DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic and other navigational aids such as "If You Can't Get Off" trail-flags embedded in the ice. The "Another four bottles, and a slight temperature was — 58 deg F. During tremor ran through the plane. In quick the short time necessary to hack a hole succession the pilot fired his remaining for the flying of the Stars and Stripes, seven bottles, the plane lurched, and Captain Cordiners' cheeks and nose staggered into the air at a mere 60 knots. went completely white. The spent JATO bottles and 120 gallons Forty-nine minutes after landing an of petrol were dumped; the plane gath attempt was made to commence the ered speed, and headed for the north. return flight, but the Dakota's skis were Admiral Dufek was invalided to found to be frozen to the polar ice. The Christchurch on November 4, suffering pilot revved the engines to full throttle from a severe bronchial chill, and was but the plane would not move. ordered to bed at Wigram for two days. Horrified watchers on the circling The Admiral told reporters that Major C Globemaster then saw the Dakota J Ellen, commander of the supporting suddenly disappear in a huge cloud of Globemaster had radioed over the Pole, smoke and flame and thought that the "If you cannot get off I will crash-land plane had blown up. Actually, alongside you and you will have a house Commander Shinn had fired four of his to live in." This, said the admiral, was fifteen JATO (jet assisted take-off) mighty comforting'." bottles, but without result." From Antarctic Volume 1, Number 4

BUY VOLUME SETS OF ANTARCTIC AND HAVE ANTARCTIC HISTORY AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Selected headlines include:

Stranded on Shackleton Ice (June 1956) Belgian expedition narrowly escapes disaster (March 1959) Mawson blizzard wrecks two aircraft (March 1961) Two U.S. aircraft recovered from East Antarctica (March 1978) Survey of Bounty and Antipodes Islands (December 1978)

Volumes 1-10,1956 — 1985, black and white covers. 12 issues per volume (some of the early issues are quality photocopies). Volume sets NZ$50.00. Single issues NZ$5.00 Volume 11-13,1985—1995, colour covers. 12 issues per volume. Volume sets NZ$75.00. Single issues NZ$7.00

Package and postage $4.50 per volume, single issues free.

Order from: Back Issues Officer, P.O. Box 404, Christchurch, New Zealand. 'ANTARCTIC — an authentic record of past Antarctic events

DECEMBER 1996 145 Antarctic MEMORY MOMENTS RELIVED British Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition

Aircraft pilot, Bill Cranfield remembers "The plane was still running when we two particular flights back in 1957 when landed — as it may not have started up he supported the British Commonwealth again in the cold — and we called to say Trans-Antarctic Expedition — one with that we were okay. Back at base we Sir Edmund Hillary and the other with a arrived to find a very unhappy squadron petrified seal: leader who would have preferred it if we "The other day, Sir Edmund Hillary had crossed our legs ... or something and I recalled a particular flight in the other than what we did!" exclaimed Bill. Auster during the Trans-Antarctic "The most traumatic time I had Expedition. We were taking a look at an during the expedition," continued Bill, area on the plateau behind the moun "was when I had to fly a petrified seal tains and, after an hour and a half, with from the Dry Valley area in the Auster icy cold winds blowing through the back to Scott Base for scientific study. aircraft, our feet were getting very cold Although the 2000 year old solid six foot and, for some reason, cold feet makes seal was strapped beside me, it slipped you want to urinate!" said Bill. forward when we were in the air. Being "We were coming home and Ed got to a dual aeroplane it had dual controls the stage when he was desperate. and by slipping forward its flippers Minutes later, so was I. There was an jammed under the control column emergency measure in the aircraft (a thereby making it impossible to get the water bottle) but the thick layers of tail down enough for a controlled down clothing ruled that option out. We landing. Fortunately I could just about were flying over Hobs Glacier, at the foot fly level. of the Western Islands under Mount I spent about 40 minutes trying to get Lister. It looked a safe bet so we called control of the aeroplane without success the base to say that we were landing for and I was terrified about how I was a pee stop. There was stunned silence at going to land, but somehow, at high the other end ..." speed, I managed it. It nearly killed me." Admiral Richard E Byrd

A personal reminiscence by Alton A. Lindsey, Emeritus Professor of Biology, Purdue University and member ofByrd's Antarctic Expedition 1933 (BAE 2) Richard E. Byrd was widely respected blows" he has also been criticised, even during his lifetime and afterward. Since vilified, but almost exclusively by those "the higher one gets the harder the wind who never visited Byrd's arena of action. 146 DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

No one else on Earth, j pensable for keeping things during the depths of the on a continuous even keel. Great Depression, could The non-tattooed were avia have raised the funds and tion pilots and navigators, donations of supplies and scientists, physicians and equipment to mount an other professionals who had ambitious scientific/tech not previously had many nological expedition like opportunities to interact BAE 2. That it was a with non-professionals. On privately supported project, the expeditions, men of both for which he went deeply groups learned to appreciate into debt in the hope of a | each other's qualities and r e c o v e r y s u p p o r t e d b y A dAdmiral m i r a , R. E.. Byrd. Byrd. viewpoints. books, documentaries, Rear-view critics have radio shows and lectures, evidences surmised that Byrd was overly aloof Byrd's faith and courage. towards his men. My sense was that he In his speaking and writing, Byrd was properly reserved, leading from always emphasised the vital role of his out front and doing his job well. I never men in the success of his expeditions. heard one of his men say that Byrd was The men of the ice parties and ships aloof or unsympathetic. came from two basic categories, the What sort of man was capable of tattooed and the non-tattooed. The weaving the personal and logistical tattooed were sailors, mechanics, sail- strands of an expedition together? First makers and artisans who were indis- he was an aviator, but he was far more.

Admiral R. E. Byrd (centre) returning to Little America after an exploratory flight in 1934 — Photograph by A. A. Lindsey

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

The public perception of him was as invaluable unbroken meteorological Admiral of the frozen lands and seas, record, despite illness and hazards. not as a Virginian aristocrat living on The second Byrd expedition formed Boston's historic Beacon Hill. His was a the historic dividing line between dog complex and many-faceted personality, teams, wooden ships and iron men and but he was no scientist and never the modern era. Byrd's successful adap claimed to be one. He became the tion of mechanical air and land trans supreme organiser and a visionary who port started the trend to prolonged made a continent nearly safe for those research cruises, permanent bases and who followed him there. aircraft-delivered supplies. Although a His flights over the Atlantic and the non-governmental project, BAE 2 was Poles led some to consider him a quite equivalent in the public mind stuntman, but he outgrew his propensity with the Apollo space programme of for headline grabbing and adopted scien the next generation. tific and geographic contributions as his The Antarctic Continent is now by far objectives. In mid-career a major the largest area on the planet dedicated personal objective was delineating the as an international scientific reserve and longest stretch of unknown coast on peace park. It was the work of Byrd and earth, east of Marie Byrd Land. His soli his multi-national associates in the tary winter at Advance Base, which some Antarctic, which, in large measure interpreted as showmanship, yielded an made this outcome possible. HISTORICAL The Riddle of the Antarctic Peninsula

By David E. Yelverton FRGS. Part 1: Pioneers of the Antarctic Night: The Story of the Belgian Antarctic Expedition 1897-9. Adrien de Gerlache de Gomery, a young from the public, plus £4,000 from the Belgian naval lieutenant, had campaigned government, but no actual cash. Taking for years for a Belgian Antarctic out a sizeable loan (£2,700) he set off to Expedition. Smitten with antarctic fever acquire and modify a Norwegian whaler, in the 1880's he had obtained his first a task that took him a year. But public backer in 1894 and, like Roald Amundsen, support was as thin as it was to be for the sailed with Greenland whalers the British and German expeditions that following year to gain experience in ice- would only be viably funded four years infested waters. Returning in the wake of later. In the end De Gerlache, as the world the 1895 International Geographical better knows him, was only able to sail in Congress in London he had won the August 1897 because at the last moment backing of the Royal Belgian his government increased its grant to Geographical Society, and by the more than half the eventual £11,900 cost of following summer got promises of £3,000 the expedition.^ See notes on page 153. 148 DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

1897, renamed her Belgica and, after visits f r o m S i r C l e m e n t s Markham and Nansen, sailed from Sandefjord on the 26th with Danco and his newest volun teer Amundsen, along with two mechanics and four sailors.(b) A f t e r p i c k i n g u p instruments and supplies at Frederikshavn in the north of Denmark, a Belgica in Neumayer channel below Mt. William.. (Schepens, ( S c h e p e n s , , , , Brussels 1904) rough 4-day voyage b r o u g h t t h e m t o Owing to the poor season he bought Vlissingen Vlissingei (Flushing) where Lt. the whaler Patria for a small amount GeorgesGeorges L« Lecointe, just released at De which he had first encountered off Gerlache'sGerlache's request to be second-in- Greenland. command,command, met the ship on 2 July. Accompanied by Lt. Emile Danco, LecointeLecointe f< found the company totally released from the artillery to act as exhausted,exhausted, no one having slept at all magnetician, he remained in Norway to duringduring the the voyage, or eaten for twenty- supervise the overhaul and modifica- fourfour hours because the trip had taken tion of the ship at the Christensen wharf longerlonger than expected. The next day they at Sandefjord, including a new boiler movedmoved up the Schelde and anchored at and propeller, along with installation of Antwerp. Antwerp, laboratories and the oceanographic gear FacedFaced wi with fund-raising diversions to donated by the Danish Navy at the instigation of Cdr Christian Wandel, their Hydrographer. When work stopped for the winter, de Gerlache took time off from his heavy schedule of corre spondence to learn ski and snow-shoe use. Guided and advised by Arctic explorers Nansen, Sverdrup, Johansen and the Austrian Count Weyprecht (of the Tegethoff Expedition), he had the ship ready by June De Gerlache Lecointe

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

IHI^HHI^^H Cooks tent, showing Amundsen's and Lecointe's skis and Cooks snowshoes. (Schepens, Brussels 1904) the last, De G e r 1 a c h e could only less so controllable, though the worst assemble the remaining scientists from deserted during preparations at volunteers prepared to contribute Antwerp. Such was the nature of the rather than be paid. Emile-Georges locally recruited men that when Racovitza (29), a Rumanian, was Lecointe proposed exercises in manoeu accepted as zoologist and botanist; vring the ship before leaving Antwerp Henryk Arctowski (26), of Polish origin, for the better safety of all, De Gerlache would take charge of geology, oceanog had to decline because he knew his men raphy and weather observations, and would refuse any work outside this Louis Bernacchi (21), working at the normal duties without extra payment. Melbourne Observatory since 1895, The five Norwegian sailors that De would join as physicist for the second Gerlache had taken on understood season. A young Polish student Antoine commands from 2nd Mate Amundsen, Dobrowolski, who volunteered to join and De Gerlache had picked up some of without pay, was accepted as assistant their language. But the rest conversed meteorologist. in French. When the doctor withdrew, De Gerlache then had to find engi the problem was only resolved by the neers and crew. He and Lecointe would fortuitous arrival of a telegram from sail with no powers of discipline or legal Dr.Frederick Cook (32) of Brooklyn, crew agreements as assisted the smooth lately on Peary's first North Greenland running of a ship under British mercan expedition, who offered to contribute if tile law. In the end, the heterogeneous he could join. De Gerlache cabled him to crew De Gerlache did get together, join them in Rio. Cook only spoke "undisciplined and even dangerous". English and a smattering of German, so They were barely adequate, and even a third language was added which only DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

De Gerlache and 3rd Mate Jules Gerlache and Amundsen began to sort Melaerts could understand. out the supplies and equipment to be All was finally ready by 16 August, landed at Cape Adare, for the plan was and after a grand official send-off and to use the southern summer of 1897-8 to the playing of the national anthem, the explore southward in Weddell's tracks, 35 metre whaler, dressed overall, sailed and then sail to South Victoria Land to at last amid a myriad yachts and land De Gerlache, Amundsen, Danco sounding of sirens, only to have the and Arctowski to winter at the Cape boiler water pump break down once and explore inland. The ship would re- she was out to sea. provision at Melbourne and then pick Putting back into Ostend, already a them up early in 1899 after carrying out month behind schedule, King Leopold oceanographic work in the Pacific. II who had hitherto held aloof from the Taking five more weeks to reach Rio, expedition, came aboard without where they picked up the enthusiastic advance warning to inspect everything Dr.Cook and enjoyed eight days of with minute interest, and addressed the receptions and festivities, the Belgica whole company — some slight compen did not reach Punta Arenas in the sation for their troubles to date, but of Magellan Straits until 1 December. no avail in stemming further crew prob At Montevideo De Gerlache had had lems which were to break out twice to sack the cook and, with near-fatal more before they reached the Antarctic. consequences later on, the Swedish One of the mechanics fell sick, and replacement he took on fell ill the day both the bosun and carpenter resigned they sailed and had to be put ashore at because sailors were continually going Punta Arenas. An ex-foreign legion ashore without leave. To replace them naire steward, Michotte, volunteered to De Gerlache managed to get only two take on the job. Within three days of seamen from Antwerp.(c) The working arriving at the Chilean port, fresh complement, excluding the scientists, trouble broke out and a chaotic period was just 19 comprising De Gerlache, the ended with De Gerlache bringing an 3 officers, 2 engineers, steward, cook, 2 armed police detachment aboard. When mechanics, and 9 sailors, of whom this news reached Europe, it reinforced Tollefsen, the oldest Norwegian, was Markham's conviction that the expedi appointed bosun. tion should have been a naval one. (Two On the evening of 23 August, having Belgian sailors and one of the waited for three days for winds to mechanics were dismissed.) abate, they weighed anchor and lurched About to plunge into the unknown, into the roughest of channel seas behind De Gerlache was left with a working a tug, only feeling it safe to cast off complement of just 14, excluding when they were near the Isle of Wight. Danco, Cook, Racovitza, Arctowski and The weather remained tempestuous for the young Dobrowolski.^J ten days, so that they didn't reach They were at least five weeks late and Madeira until 11 September. the deck crew was dangerously small Sailing again on the 14th, De and inexperienced, four of them novices DECEMBER 1996 151 Antarctic

Antarctic Journeys 1898 -1905

152 DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

21 years old or less, with only Tollefsen NOTES and Johansen to hold each watch together. It was only safe to sail further (a) £1500 would be recovered by sale of the ship. by virtue of the ship being equipped with Cunningham's patent furling (b) Lecointe (Au Pays des Manchots pl9) refers to 4 sailors, but De Gerlache (Quinze topsails, which could be handled Mois dans l'Antarctique p71) lists 5 entirely from the deck without sending Norwegians, one of which, Adam men aloft at all. Tollefsen, is referred to as bosun by On top of this, De Gerlache had been Lecointe p88. faced with the need to accept offers of (c) Gaston Dufour and Jean Van Mirlo, the fresh meat and coal (despite picking up latter assigned as apprentice mechanic. 100 tons shipped out from Belgium), (d) The working complement comprised and so had been forced to make a diver De Gerlache (31), Lecointe (28), 2nd Offr sion through the difficult Beagle Roald Amundsen (26), 3rd Offr Jules Channel to pick the meat up at Punta Melaerts (22), Ch.Engr Henri Somers (34), Arenas. It was clearly impossible to get 2nd Engr Max van Rysselberghe (19), Mechanic Jan Van Mirlo (20), Steward & to Victoria Land that season, so De Cook Louis Michotte, bosun Adam Gerlache decided they could only visit Tollefsen (31), 4 Norwegian sailors Ludwig Hughes Bay and try to get through from Hjalmar Johansen (25), Engelbret Knudsen there to the Weddell Sea, going on after (21), August Wiencke (20), Johan Koren wards to reach Melbourne in May, and (18) & 1 Belgian Gustave-Gaston Dufour stopping there for the winter. They (21). would then land at Cape Adare the (e) There is some doubt about this because following season — it would all take no Lecointe (pi32-3) relates that the new plan longer in total than the original plan was to return to S.America for the winter, then head for the Weddell Sea if they had envisaged, but the wintering on the found good prospects to the south or, if Cape would have to be abandoned, (e) Unknown to them, Sir Clements not, carryout the original S.Victoria Land Markham had made the first announce plan. But it seems unlikely De Gerlache would have slowed the first voyage south ment in London of Borchgrevink's to take soundings across the Drake Strait if expedition to the same place De he had been intending to return that way. Gerlache's party was aiming for — Cape Adare. After failing to get another 45 tons of coal, mostly stacked Nansen's support in his homeland, on deck, the beef carcases which they Borchgrevink had persuaded London hung in the shrouds and, on the last publisher Sir George Newnes to back stretch through the channel fresh water, his expedition with almost three times the gaining of which nearly cost them the amount De Gerlache had raised for their lives. Trying to enter an uncharted the Belgian expedition. bay in darkness the ship ran aground, Leaving Punta Arenas on 13 Dec and for many hours was in danger of 1897, the diversion through the being completely wrecked. But with the Magellan Straits and back had cost De aid of local indians they got her floated Gerlache a month. They had taken on off without serious damage.

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At last on 14 Jan 1898 l'Expedition the Antarctic beyond. The opening raid Antarctique Beige, so nearly finished upon Nature's white wilderness had got before it really started, stood out into the off to a shaky start. South Atlantic and headed the ship's bow towards the South Shetlands and To be continued next issue TRIBUTES Sir Robin Irvine 1929 —1996 Chairman of Antarctica New Zealand

One of my great privileges was Heritage Trust, the National Library, knowing Sir Robin Irvine for the last the New Zealand Red Cross Foundation five years. He was a man of high ability and a member of several other nation and made a major and lasting impres ally important academic and educa sion on every venture that he was tional governing boards, and trustee involved in. His final years were committees. marked by a focus of his extraordinary Sir Robin was a medical scientist by energy on Antarctica. training and after several appointments In 1993 he was appointed in New Zealand and the UK he was Chairperson of the Ross Dependency appointed clinical Dean of the Medical Research Committee (RDRC). As a man School at the University of Otago in of action he soon became frustrated by 1969. In 1973 he became Vice Chancellor the lack of "teeth" that characterised the of the University of Otago, the youngest decisions of this nominally important appointment of this nature by the committee. As a result he became the University this century. He held this driving force in the establishment of the post until 1993 when he became actively New Zealand Antarctic Institute which, involved in Antarctica. under an Act of Parliament, would have He was a tireless communicator and responsibilities superseding those of the rapidly increased the profile of New RDRC. Zealand's Antarctic programme in At the time of his death he was international affairs. Already strong Chairman of the Board of Directors of links with the US Antarctic programme the Antarctic Institute (named and with the British Antarctic Survey "Antarctica New Zealand"), Chairman were enhanced and in particular he was of the Board of the International Centre very pleased to be given the opportu for Antarctic Information and Research nity to develop, for the first time, links (ICAIR), Chairman of the Board of with South Africa's National Antarctic Mercy Hospital and Deputy Chairman Research Programme. At the time of his of the Board of the Institute of death New Zealand's Antarctic interests Environmental Science and Research, as have seldom looked stronger: increases well as being a trustee of the Antarctic in government science funding for 154 DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

Antarctica have been approved, ICAIR increased as have Gateway City interac has developed as a UNEP GRID node tions. Much of this can be ascribed to for the South Pacific, Antarctica New the energy and enthusiasm of Sir Robin. Zealand is on a firm footing as the coun He is sorely missed. try's first self standing Antarctic By Dr Clive Howard-Williams Institute, SCAR related activities have Board Member, Antarctica New Zealand. Ian Walter Harkess 25 January 1941 —18 October 1996

The Society lost a loyal New Zealand member when Ian Harkess died of cancer in October this year. Ian came from a well known Lyttelton shipping family, and as a boy he had the oppor tunity to see many ships enter and leave the harbour, some of them destined for the Antarctic. His boyhood interest in ships and the Antarctic grew and never left him, even when he decided to follow a career in pharmacy and move to Christchurch, investing long hours in his Hornby Mall chemist shop. Ian has been described as having a passion for Antarctica. He first visited the continent in 1964-65 as part of the University of Canterbury team studying Weddell seals, Adelie penguins and McCormick skuas in McMurdo Sound and Ross Island and was also with them For many years Ian was a committee the following year. Since then, he made member for Canterbury Branch, and about nine further trips, several aboard during the last few years was also the Trade-wind and the Marco Polo, and National Back Issues Officer, gener others on the Akademik Shokalskiy. A ously storing the large collection at his personal highlight was flying in home in West Melton. It was his desire Antarctica with Dick Smith. to share his Antarctic and shipping Ian had a good photographic eye, interests with others that led Ian to and several of his Antarctic arrange for a set of postcards of early photographs were published in the Antarctic expedition ships to be made National Geographic. His penguin for the Society. His knowledge of shots delighted many when he arranged stamps was also immense, especially for them to be used on a special relating to Antarctic issues. phonecard. Ian was a charming but very quiet DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic man, softly spoken, very thorough in bouts of illness. We are glad that before everything he did, and seldom without illness finally forced him to slow down, a pleased smile of greeting. His second Ian, with Linda Ann, had a magical trip marriage in July to Linda Ann, who he to China and Tibet this April. had known for over a decade and a half, was a modestly kept secret, as were his By Margaret Bradshaw, Society President BOOK REVIEWS

"Silas: the Antarctic Diaries and Memoirs of Charles S Wright"

(Edited by Colin Bull and Pat F. Wright; illustrated by Pat F. Wright). Ohio State University Press, Columbus, 1993.

It has been a privilege and a pleasure to interested in a wide range of subjects, read this remarkable collection of both of nature and of human beings". diaries, memoirs and letters which tell Wright published four monographs the story of Robert Falcon Scott's final between 1921 and 1923, outlining his journey to Antarctica, as seen through scientific discoveries, but the collection the eyes of Charles S. Wright, the expe being reviewed has a much wider dition's Canadian physicist and glaciol scope. ogist. Following in the fine tradition of Detailing both his scientific discov accounts written by Scott himself, eries and his reactions to the hardships Edward Wilson, Apsley Cherry- and wonders of the expedition, Garrard, Frank Debenham, Teddy Wright's story culminates in the Evans, Tryggve Gran, Raymond dramatic search for the discovery of Priestley and Griffith Taylor — to Scott and two other members of the mention just a few — Wright has given party who perished on their return to another point of view and has helped to base camp from the expedition to the complete a picture of this extraordinary Pole. It was Wright who first sighted journey of exploration and scientific the six inches or so tip of the tent and discovery. his descriptions of this discovery in his The co-editor of this volume, Colin diary and memoirs are very moving. Bull, dean emeritus at the Ohio State But there are also accounts of the University, who has himself conducted journey to Antarctica, exploring the extensive glaciological and geophysical Western mountains, depot-laying, research in the Antarctic and Arctic, crossing the Barrier, climbing the writes, "by no stretch of the imagination Beardmore Glacier, and two winters at can he [Wright] be considered to have Cape Evans, which compliment other been a good diarist, but he was a careful descriptions in a fascinating way. observer, well trained as a scientist and But one cannot review this book 156 DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic without making reference to both Colin holds an Antarctic collection and the Bull's outstanding editorial notes for proud possession of any person with an they alone make the book compulsory addiction for Antarctic books, particu reading for those interested in Antarctic larly one like this reviewer who has had exploration; and the exquisite illustra the opportunity to visit the Wright tions — second only to those of Edward Valley in Antarctica and to view and Wilson — of the co-editor, Wright's admire the wonderful glaciers in this second daughter, Pat — obviously a region. labour of love and accomplished during Reviewed by Sir Robin Irvine a long period of time. The book is excel Editors Note: lently produced and would grace any This review was written shortly before library of Antarctic books. Sir Robin died on 27 September 1996. I can recommend "Silas", without Sir Robin was Chairman of the Board of reservation, to any one interested in Antarctica New Zealand and of ICAIR. Antarctic exploration. Others will read Prior to that, he was the last Chairman the book but might find the scientific of the Ross Dependency Research detail difficult to follow. The book committee and Vice-Chancellor of should be part of any library which Otago University. ICY HERITAGE: The Historic Sites of the Ross Sea Region, Antarctica

By David L Harrowfield. Published by Antarctic Heritage Trust: 1995 David Harrowfield and the Antarctic human history of the Ross Sea region. Heritage Trust (AHT) have done a great "Icy Heritage" is the single best publi service towards preserving the early cation yet produced describing all the

The sledge at Cape Geology, 23 November 1959 — Bill Ma

DECEMBER 1996 Antarctic

The rock hut at Cape Geology in 1911 — Tryggve Gran. key historic sites, and their histories. more modern historic sites. For The book is comprehensive, very well example, are there specific buildings or illustrated and yet concise. It is also features at McMurdo Station which inexpensive and hence will be acces should be preserved formally to reflect sible to all who want a quick reference the 40 years of human habitation there? book. What conservation work should be David Harrowfield has covered all directed to the T.A.E. mess hut at Scott the well known sites, such as the Base? Hopefully we may look forward Discovery Hut on Hut Point, Scott's Hut to an Icy Heritage Part 2 in the future. at Cape Evans and Shackleton's Hut at This book is an excellent little publi Cape Royds. In addition, he has covered cation. I would recommend it to anyone all the Cape Adare sites, Terra Nova with an interest in Antarctic history. Bay and the remote sites in Marie Byrd Land and southern Transantarctic Reviewed by Hugh Logan, Former Manager Mountains. The description of the sites of New Zealand Antarctic Programme includes why they are significant and a (recently renamed Antarctica New short summary of visits and work done Zealand) & head of the Department of subsequently to protect the site. In Conservation's Nelson Conservancy. summary, this is a register of historic sites, but in a popular and easily read able form. E d i t o r s N o t e : The challenge that now needs to be This book is available from The Polar taken up is to give protection to the Bookshop at $30 + post and packaging.

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Das Bedrohte Paradies (The Threatened Paradise)

By Dr Sabine Schmidt draw attention to events and situations From January 1987 until January 1991 which do not enjoy the approval of this Greenpeace maintained a self-sufficient organisation. One of these protest high-tech research station in Antarctica actions concerns a nearly suicidal on Ross Island at Cape Evans. The attempt by the author and her colleagues purpose of this station was to provide a to stop a Japanese whale-meat base from which it would be possible to processing ship from reaching the establish a physical watch-dog presence catching fleet. Other publicity actions by in Antarctica, to monitor and to dissemi the group, some of which are quite nate the effects of man-made contamina humorous when considered in context, tion of the Antarctic environment, and to involve incidents on Ross Island in collect data and to carry out investiga protest against environmental contami tions in support of various international nation and the negligent disposal of scientific research projects. This book is rubbish at McMurdo Station. written in German and the author The second section of the book is provides an informative and well devoted to the daily routine and the written narrative of the daily life, activi winter activities during the months of ties, and experiences which she shared perpetual darkness at Cape Evans. The for two years in Antarctica with her author uses a narrative style which three winter-over colleagues. It is a book consists of a skilful blend of event docu which should appeal to anybody who mentation, historical and scientific facts, has even a remote interest in Antarctica, and her personal observations and feel and specifically to those who have ings. The reader acquires a feeling of visited or worked on Ross Island. The watching the winter-over group through author displays a comprehensive and a keyhole. Her descriptions are often so extensive knowledge of just about every vivid that the reader vicariously joins the aspect of life and survival in Antarctica group and can almost hear the storm and, if an English language version were raging outside. available, this book might well be The final section of the book describes considered as required reading for extended journeys undertaken by the anybody who is planning to visit group after the sun finally returns to Antarctica at some future date. Antarctica and the solidly frozen sea ice The book is divided into three main provides a bridge between Ross Island sections. The first section is primarily and the Antarctic continent. Among devoted to the preparation phase for the these excursions the author describes expedition, the sea voyage to Antarctica, their visits to Vanda Station and the Dry and the settling-in process at Cape Valleys, the continental ice shelf, and to Evans. The reader is also introduced to many other places of interest on Ross the rather unorthodox publicity stunts Island. Throughout this section, as employed by members of Greenpeace to indeed throughout the book, the reader DECEMBER 1996 159 Antarctic is propelled through the pages by her obvious enthusiasm for her work and a New Zealand Naval History in Antarctica compulsive love for the Antarctic. The material in this book is well Request for information researched and beautifully presented. A book is being written by Brett Careful attention has been given to the Fotheringham (Scott Base Manager, explanation of words and concepts that 1991-92) about the New Zealand might not be known by the reader, such as Navy's early involvement in an explanation of the origin of the catabatic Antarctica, concentrating primarily on wind and of the spectacular auroral the first Endeavour (ex. John Biscoe), which operated in Antarctica between displays. Local wisdom and weather indi 1956-1961. Brett would be keen to cators are also plentifully provided. Among hear from any personnel who may these are such suggestions as "...avoid the have served on the Endeavour during crevassed terrain near Castle Rock . . ." and this period, or who may have relevant ". . . when you cannot see Mina Bluff from information. Scott Base then a storm is not far away...". Contact him at:: All in all, this is a most enjoyable and Lieutenant Commander informative book. It is a shame that it has as Brett Fotheringham HMNZS Tamaki, HMNZ Naval Base, yet not been translated into English. Private Bag 32901, Devonport, By H. Andreas von Biel, Senior Physics Auckland. Lecturer, Canterbury University, Christchurch. remember the antarctic society with a bequest The New Zealand Antarctic Society acts as an information provider, educator and Antarctic watch dog, but it costs money. If you wish to see the Society continue and expand its involvement in Antarctica, please consider remembering us in your will, either financially or as a repository for Antarctic related items such as books and momemtoes. Listed below are two sample bequests that you may wish to consider:

I GIVE AND BEQUEATH to the New Zealand Antarctic Society the sum of for general purposes therefore AND I DECLARE that the receipt of the Secretary or other proper officer thereof shall be a full and sufficient discharge for my Trustee for the said legacy nor shall my Trustee be bound to see the application thereof.

I GIVE AND BEQUEATH to the New Zealand Antarctic Society the following articles:

for the purpose of displaying such articles in a suitable location approved by the Society. This property must remain the property of the Society AND I DECLARE that the receipt of the Secretary or other proper officer thereof shall be a full and sufficient discharge for my Trustee for the said legacy nor shall my Trustee be bound to see the application thereof.

160 DECEMBER 1996 The New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., was Secretary, formed in 1933. It comprises New Zealanders Auckland Branch, and overseas friends, many of whom have New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., been to the Antarctic and all of whom are P O Box 8062 vitally interested in some phase of Antarctic AUCKLAND 1035 exploration, history, development or research. Secretary, The annual subscription entitles members to: Wellington Branch, Antarctic is published each March, June, New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., PO Box 2110, September and December. It is unique in Antarctic literature as it is the only periodical WELLINGTON 6000 which provides regular and up to date news of the activities of all nations at work in the Secretary, Canterbury Branch Antarctic and the subantarctic. It has a world New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., wide circulation. P O Box 404 Members also receive a regular newsletter CHRISTCHURCH 8000 called Polar Whispers and an annual Polar Log, which records the decisions made by the Secretary Society's Council at its AGM. Regular meet Otago Branch ings are held by the Auckland, Wellington, New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., Canterbury and Otago branches. P O Box 7083 DUNEDIN 9030 Subscriptions are: NZ $40 in New Zealand Overseas Branch Secretary Airmail Postage New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., NZ $46 Australia and South Pacific P O Box 404 NZ $49 North America and East Asia Christchurch 8000 NZ $51 Europe, including Great Britain NEW ZEALAND NZ $55 Everywhere else Economy Postage (shiver deliver}/) Advertising rates NZ $43 Australia and South Pacific Full colour (outside back cover only) $500 NZ $45 North America and East Asia Outside back cover (b&w) $400 NZ $46 Europe including Great Britain Whole page (b&w only) $300 NZ $46 Everywhere else Half page (b&w only) $200 Q u a r t e r p a g e ( b & w o n l y ) $ 1 0 0 You are invited to join — please write to: Rates for regular placement are negotiable. National Secretary, Enquiries to the: P O Box 404, National Treasurer Christchurch 8000, New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., NEW ZEALAND. P O Box 404 Christchurch 8000 All New Zealand administrative inquiries New Zealand should go to the National Secretary. All over seas branch inquiries should go to the Fliers and other advertising material can be Overseas Branch Secretary. Inquiries inserted at a cost of $150 per issue plus any regarding back issues can be made to the Back additional postage incurred through such Issues Officer, P O Box 404, Christchurch 8000, insertions. Inquiries should be made to the New Zealand. Treasurer. Phone and fax numbers for the bulletin appear in the front of each issue. Members should direct other inquiries to their Deadlines for advertising and copy are the local branch. 20th of each month proceeding Snow All The Year Round Christchurch's Tourism Award-winning Antarctic Centre has a great new Antarctic attraction — 200 square metres filled with 30 tonnes of real snow! The Snow and Ice Experience enable you to experience wind chill, slide down a Centre snow slope and experience sub-zero temperatures. Visitor Centre Other outstanding attractions at the centre include. Orchard Rd, P.O. Box 14 001, • The Four Seasons — an interactive multi media display which allows you Christchurch, New Zealand. to experience the dramatic climatic changes. • The Great White South — the largest audio visual in New Zealand Telephone: 64 3 358 9896 • The Under-lce Experience — including a polar aquarium. Fax: 64 3 353 7799 http: www.iceberg.co.nz We are right by the Airport — Make us your first call.