TABLE OF CONTENTS 2013-2014 North Carolina Cosmetology Update Chapter 1: Principles of Haircutting (4 CE Hours) 1 Chapter 2: Perms - Current Styles and Methods (2 CE Hours) 13 Chapter 3: Wigs and Hairpieces (2 CE Hours) 21 Chapter 4: Indoor Air Quality Guide (2 CE Hours) 28 Chapter 5: Hair Color Principles (4 CE Hours) 40 Chapter 6: Chemical Make-Up of Hair, Skin & Nails (2 CE Hours) 47 Chapter 7: Sanitation and Sterilization (2 CE Hours) 54 Chapter 8: Retail Concepts (2 CE Hours) 60 Chapter 9: Tax Responsibilities for the Personal Service Worker (2 CE Hours) 70 Chapter 10: Domestic Violence and the Salon Professional (2 CE Hours) 81 Self-Assessment Answer Sheet for all sections 89 Course Evaluation 90 Complete this course online 9 Immediate scoring. 9 Instant certificate of completion. www.nccosmo.cme.edu © 2013. All rights reserved. These materials may not be reproduced without permission. This publication is designed to provide general information prepared by professionals in regard to the subject matter covered. It is provided with the understanding that INFORMED is not engaged in rendering legal, medical, or other professional services. Although prepared by professionals, this publication should not be utilized as a substitute for professional services in specific situations. If legal advice, medical advice or other expert assistance is required, the service of a professional should be sought. Page ii INFORMED Chapter 1 Principles of Haircutting (4 CE Hours) Learning objectives down would be considered the side. Everything from the ear ` Identify areas of the head. back and from the parietal bone down would be considered the ` Identify various lines and angles. back. The highest point of the head is called the apex and the ` Identify elevations related to cutting hair. triangular section from the apex to the outer corners of the eyes ` Identify the different face shapes. is the fringe (bang) area. From the apex to the parietal ridge is ` Describe hair analysis. the crown. ` Describe the use of cutting shears. ` Identify the proper method to hold cutting tools. LINES AND ANGLES ` Describe appropriate posture and body position when There are 3 basic lines one follows when doing a haircut; performing a haircut. horizontal, vertical and diagonal. Horizontal lines are used when ` Identify different types of haircuts. creating weight lines in the hair and when cutting 0 degree ` Acquire knowledge in hair cutting tips. haircuts with a stationary guideline (one that does not move). Vertical lines are used to create movement and lightness in the Areas of the head hair and are used in 45 degree cuts, 90 degree cuts and 180 degree cuts using a traveling guideline (one that moves around As you know, there are many planes and angles in the human the head, using previously cut hair). Diagonal lines are used to skull. As hairdressers, we must be aware of these angles and connect two horizontal lines. use them to our advantage, or they will work against us. A look at the human skull reveals some important planes that affect us Angles occur where two lines intersect, such as where a diagonal when cutting hair. line and a horizontal line connect. A diagonal forward bob has very strong angles at the front hairline. For instance, when looking at the frontal bone (Figure 1) from the side view, if you are doing a 90 degree haircut, the angle of Knowledge of the different types of haircuts and your fingers and scissors should be slanted at an angle directly out from the head to follow the shape of the bone structure. elevations When cutting the hair on the top of the head, the hair should be held straight up and the hand and scissors should be horizontal. When looking at the side of the head, if doing a short haircut, it is easy to see where the shape of the head changes. The sides would be cut very short in a vertical line and then the haircut would change at the parietal ridge, where the head starts to round. If doing a short graduated cut, at the top of the occipital bone, the head shape changes and that is where the graduation would end. When moving around the head shape, it is naturally divided into areas we are all familiar with. For instance, everything from the parietal bone and up would be considered the top of the head. Everything from the ear forward and from the parietal bone Figure 1. Front and side view of facial bones. INFORMED Page 1 The basic haircuts or elevations include the solid or 0 degree Square cut, the graduated or 45 degree cut, the uniform or 90 degree cut A square shaped face is broad in the forehead and chin area and the long layered or 180 degree cut. As anyone who cuts hair without an increase in width at the cheekbones. The best knows, you cut many other angles besides these based on the hairstyles for square faces create a hairstyle that softens the hair effect you are trying to achieve, but the basic four elevations are around the temple and jaw. Add volume around the ear area. a good starting point. If you need to create weight in a haircut, you will want to use a Oval very low or 0 degree elevation. This is commonly at the bottom This facial shape is considered the ideal. The face is evenly of the haircut, such as in a solid shape. However, throughout the divided in measurements from the forehead to the eyebrows, the years, 0 degree cuts have cropped up at other places on the head, eyebrows to the tip of the nose and the tip of the nose to the chin. such as the infamous bowl cut in the eighties. It is 1 ½ times longer than it is wide. This facial shape can wear any hairstyle successfully. If you want to build a graduated shape at the bottom of a haircut, the 45 degree elevation is the way to go. The most famous ProfILES example of a 45 degree cut in recent history is Victoria Beckham who spawned a whole movement reminiscent of the Dorothy There are three different profiles you with which you should be Hamill cut in the 1970s. familiar. These types are straight, convex and concave. A 90 degree cut gives lots of movement to the hair as all strands A straight profile is the desired profile. The forehead, nose and are cut to a similar length with a traveling guideline. A 180 chin are presented in a relatively straight line. No feature is more degree haircut or long layered cut is a beautiful, classic look that prominent than another. Any hairstyle will work with this profile. never goes out of style. The convex profile features a receding forehead and chin and a prominent nose. A hairstyle with full bangs to cover the forehead FacIAL SHAPES and fill it out will be helpful. Volume at the occipital bone should There are many different facial shapes and while the oval shape be avoided as it will accentuate the nose. is considered the ideal facial shape, it is obvious that women The concave profile features a prominent forehead and chin with considered beautiful by society have every face shape possible. a small nose. Bangs without volume will help to disguise the prominence of the forehead. Round A round facial shape is wide through the cheekbone area with a KNOWLEDGE OF HAIR ANALYSIS fairly short forehead and chin. The best hairstyle for round faces There are a number of areas you need to analyze before cutting is a hairstyle that has volume or height on top and closeness or a person’s hair, namely texture, density, elasticity, porosity, and no volume at the sides will enhance a round face. An elongated growth patterns. shape helps to lengthen the face. First you need to look at the texture of the hair. The texture Diamond describes the diameter of each individual hair strand, whether it A diamond shaped face has a narrow forehead and chin and is fine, medium or coarse. This will greatly affect how the hair has width through the cheekbone area. The best hairstyles for lays after the haircut. Many times when clients choose haircut diamond-shaped faces are hairstyles with fullness at the jaw line photos they choose a look on a model who has a different texture and forehead while keeping the hair close to the cheekbone will hair than them. It is up to you, the professional, to explain how show a diamond shaped face to its best advantage. their hair will look with the same haircut. Another aspect of hair analysis that must be examined is density. Heart Density is the number of hairs per square inch. Obviously, the A heart shaped face carries width through the forehead area less hair a person has the harder it will be to achieve the desired tapering down to a narrow chin. The best hairstyle for a heart- hairstyle. On the other hand, a person with heavy density may shaped face includes bangs to reduce the width of the forehead not achieve the desired look if they ask for a razor cut with a with fullness at the jaw line will make this facial shape look its feathered look. best. Elasticity must be taken into account when cutting hair. A person Oblong with a lot of elasticity in their hair may end up with bangs or An oblong shaped face is very long with a high forehead and overall length that is a lot shorter than what they desire if the prominent chin.