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Page ii INFORMED Chapter 1 Principles of Haircutting (4 CE Hours)

Learning objectives down would be considered the side. Everything from the ear `` Identify areas of the head. back and from the parietal bone down would be considered the `` Identify various lines and angles. back. The highest point of the head is called the apex and the `` Identify elevations related to cutting hair. triangular section from the apex to the outer corners of the eyes `` Identify the different face shapes. is the fringe (bang) area. From the apex to the parietal ridge is `` Describe hair analysis. the crown. `` Describe the use of cutting shears. `` Identify the proper method to hold cutting tools. Lines and Angles `` Describe appropriate posture and body position when There are 3 basic lines one follows when doing a haircut; performing a haircut. horizontal, vertical and diagonal. Horizontal lines are used when `` Identify different types of haircuts. creating weight lines in the hair and when cutting 0 degree `` Acquire knowledge in hair cutting tips. haircuts with a stationary guideline (one that does not move). Vertical lines are used to create movement and lightness in the Areas of the head hair and are used in 45 degree cuts, 90 degree cuts and 180 degree cuts using a traveling guideline (one that moves around As you know, there are many planes and angles in the human the head, using previously cut hair). Diagonal lines are used to skull. As hairdressers, we must be aware of these angles and connect two horizontal lines. use them to our advantage, or they will work against us. A look at the human skull reveals some important planes that affect us Angles occur where two lines intersect, such as where a diagonal when cutting hair. line and a horizontal line connect. A diagonal forward bob has very strong angles at the front hairline. For instance, when looking at the frontal bone (Figure 1) from the side view, if you are doing a 90 degree haircut, the angle of Knowledge of the different types of haircuts and your fingers and scissors should be slanted at an angle directly out from the head to follow the shape of the bone structure. elevations When cutting the hair on the top of the head, the hair should be held straight up and the hand and scissors should be horizontal. When looking at the side of the head, if doing a short haircut, it is easy to see where the shape of the head changes. The sides would be cut very short in a vertical line and then the haircut would change at the parietal ridge, where the head starts to round. If doing a short graduated cut, at the top of the occipital bone, the head shape changes and that is where the graduation would end. When moving around the head shape, it is naturally divided into areas we are all familiar with. For instance, everything from the parietal bone and up would be considered the top of the head. Everything from the ear forward and from the parietal bone

Figure 1. Front and side view of facial bones.

INFORMED Page 1 The basic haircuts or elevations include the solid or 0 degree Square cut, the graduated or 45 degree cut, the uniform or 90 degree cut A square shaped face is broad in the forehead and chin area and the long layered or 180 degree cut. As anyone who cuts hair without an increase in width at the cheekbones. The best knows, you cut many other angles besides these based on the hairstyles for square faces create a hairstyle that softens the hair effect you are trying to achieve, but the basic four elevations are around the temple and jaw. Add volume around the ear area. a good starting point. If you need to create weight in a haircut, you will want to use a Oval very low or 0 degree elevation. This is commonly at the bottom This facial shape is considered the ideal. The face is evenly of the haircut, such as in a solid shape. However, throughout the divided in measurements from the forehead to the eyebrows, the years, 0 degree cuts have cropped up at other places on the head, eyebrows to the tip of the nose and the tip of the nose to the chin. such as the infamous bowl cut in the eighties. It is 1 ½ times longer than it is wide. This facial shape can wear any hairstyle successfully. If you want to build a graduated shape at the bottom of a haircut, the 45 degree elevation is the way to go. The most famous Profiles example of a 45 degree cut in recent history is Victoria Beckham who spawned a whole movement reminiscent of the Dorothy There are three different profiles you with which you should be Hamill cut in the 1970s. familiar. These types are straight, convex and concave. A 90 degree cut gives lots of movement to the hair as all strands A straight profile is the desired profile. The forehead, nose and are cut to a similar length with a traveling guideline. A 180 chin are presented in a relatively straight line. No feature is more degree haircut or long layered cut is a beautiful, classic look that prominent than another. Any hairstyle will work with this profile. never goes out of style. The convex profile features a receding forehead and chin and a prominent nose. A hairstyle with full bangs to cover the forehead Facial Shapes and fill it out will be helpful. Volume at the occipital bone should There are many different facial shapes and while the oval shape be avoided as it will accentuate the nose. is considered the ideal facial shape, it is obvious that women The concave profile features a prominent forehead and chin with considered beautiful by society have every face shape possible. a small nose. Bangs without volume will help to disguise the prominence of the forehead. Round A round facial shape is wide through the cheekbone area with a Knowledge of Hair Analysis fairly short forehead and chin. The best hairstyle for round faces There are a number of areas you need to analyze before cutting is a hairstyle that has volume or height on top and closeness or a person’s hair, namely texture, density, elasticity, porosity, and no volume at the sides will enhance a round face. An elongated growth patterns. shape helps to lengthen the face. First you need to look at the texture of the hair. The texture Diamond describes the diameter of each individual hair strand, whether it A diamond shaped face has a narrow forehead and chin and is fine, medium or coarse. This will greatly affect how the hair has width through the cheekbone area. The best hairstyles for lays after the haircut. Many times when clients choose haircut diamond-shaped faces are hairstyles with fullness at the jaw line photos they choose a look on a model who has a different texture and forehead while keeping the hair close to the cheekbone will hair than them. It is up to you, the professional, to explain how show a diamond shaped face to its best advantage. their hair will look with the same haircut. Another aspect of hair analysis that must be examined is density. Heart Density is the number of hairs per square inch. Obviously, the A heart shaped face carries width through the forehead area less hair a person has the harder it will be to achieve the desired tapering down to a narrow chin. The best hairstyle for a heart- hairstyle. On the other hand, a person with heavy density may shaped face includes bangs to reduce the width of the forehead not achieve the desired look if they ask for a razor cut with a with fullness at the jaw line will make this facial shape look its feathered look. best. Elasticity must be taken into account when cutting hair. A person Oblong with a lot of elasticity in their hair may end up with bangs or An oblong shaped face is very long with a high forehead and overall length that is a lot shorter than what they desire if the prominent chin. This facial shape is also narrow. Hairstyles for hairdresser doesn’t allow for their elasticity. Curly hair can oblong-shaped faces include not building volume into the top shrink ½” to 2” after being cut. of the hair, but keeping the hair close. Add width to the sides by Hair porosity could impact haircutting if the hair is resistant and adding volume to the style. doesn’t want to absorb a lot of water. If the hair dries out during the cut, some hair would have been wet when cut and some of Triangular the hair would be cut dry. This is a problem because wet hair can This facial shape has a narrow forehead and carries width through stretch 40-50% of its length and dry hair only 20% of its length. the jawline. For best hairstyles for a triangular face, on top, style The hair cut will be uneven when completed. The hairdresser hair with volume at the temples with some height on top. Bangs must continuously wet the hair to keep an even consistency of are beneficial to disguise the narrowness of the forehead. moisture throughout the cut.

Page 2 INFORMED Growth patterns must be analyzed to see how they will impact The triple ring shear allows for more comfort and control when the finished cut. A young boy with a strong growth pattern in the cutting hair. crown area may need the hairdresser to leave the hair slightly longer in this area so that he doesn’t have a cowlick. Many clients will have a cowlick in the bang area. The hairdresser will need to allow additional length at the cowlick to compensate. Also, many clients have necklines that grow in various directions. It is important to look at that before cutting the hair short so that you have a plan to deal with the growth patterns.

Knowledge of cutting shears You should be familiar with at least a couple of shear parts. Shears are the backbone of the cosmetology industry. They come Shears come with a stopper or silencer between the finger grip in lengths ranging from 5 inches to 7 ½ inches. How do you and the thumb grip. This is a small bump that keeps the finger know what length shear you like best? Don’t measure the entire grips from hitting together. The stopper quiets the shear and length of the shear. The length is measured from the tip of the creates a smoother cut. shear to the finger holes. The pivot area of a shear has an area where the blades come Shears come with one of two edges, a beveled edge or a convex together called the ride. The ride must be kept clean of hair. edge. The beveled edge is the oldest blade design. It can cut Cleaning, sanitation, and sterilization should be completed well, but requires more force than the convex blade and can’t be according to the guidelines in the Sanitation and Sterilization used for advanced techniques like slide cutting. The convex edge section of this course. is a smoother cutting blade. It is a must for slide cutting. Shears The ride must also be oiled regularly. This reduces the friction with a convex edge are harder to make and therefore are more and drag between the blades and gives your shears the smooth expensive, but worth it. operation they had when new. Oiling the blades also helps There are five different types of handle designs; the opposing prevent rust and corrosion. Some manufacturers have an aerosol grip, the offset grip, the crane grip, the swivel grip and the triple silicone lubricant that blows out the hair and debris while you’re ring shear. oiling the shears. Another advantage of this product is that hair does not stick to the dry silicone film like it does to oil. The only The opposing grip is the oldest design. This handle design shears that don’t get oiled are the newer shears that have the is what many hairdressers used in training and are most rideless ball bearing. comfortable for many cosmetologists. Shears can be adjusted with a coin adjustable tension screw or a leaf spring tension system. You should check your tension adjustment regularly. To check, hold your shears with the tips pointing up. Open one blade to a 90 degree angle and then let go. If the blades close about 2/3 of the way, your tension is correct. If the blades close, the tension is too loose and the hair will bend rather than cut. If the blades will not close, the tension is too The offset grip is a more modern version of the haircutting shear. tight. This will cause excess wear on the shears and will create It allows the hand to be in a more open position, reducing stress problems for you and your hands. on the thumb and hand. Shears are made out of different metal formulas by each manufacturer but generally they are made out of cobalt, molybdenum, stainless steel or a combination of these metals. Shears will be rated on a Rockwell hardness scale. A good quality shear will have a rating around 60 Rockwell. When manufactured, shears are shaped and tempered using one of three different methods; casting, forging and cryogenic The crane grip allows the hand to open even more and the elbow tempering. Casting means that the liquid metal is poured into a can be dropped reducing stress on the hand, shoulder and wrist mold. This is durable but these shears will not hold an edge as even more. long as forged shears. A forged shear is created by dropping a weighted mold onto a hot bar of steel. The metal is then pounded into the desired shape. The last way shears are shaped is through cryogenic tempering. The temperature of the steel is reduced to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. This makes the steel molecules pull The swivel grip features an ergonomic design which will help together into a compact form. When the steel is returned to room the hairstylist guard against carpal tunnel syndrome. temperature the molecules relax and separate into a stronger and more durable shear. Be very careful of to what you subject your shears. If perm solution or any other chemical gets on them, wipe them off immediately. Any strong solution will pit your shears. Proper

INFORMED Page 3 sanitation and sterilization procedures should be used for your vibrate the blade back and forth. The blades run at a high speed shears after each haircut. The shears should be oiled at the end of to create a smoother hair cut. This motor provides less power each day. This will keep them in optimum condition. than the other two designs. Never cut anything with your shears other than hair, and The pivot motor uses two electromagnets and no spring. The safeguard your shears so no one else uses them for anything else. blade speed is slower than with a magnetic motor, but produces Keep a cheap pair of shears handy for opening perm bottles, or at least twice the power. Cutting through wet hair is much easier better yet use a T pin for a smaller opening. with this motor. This type of motor is ideal for everyday cutting It is also important for you to get your shears sharpened on a The rotary motor powers the most powerful clippers on the regular basis so that they cut the hair cleanly. How do you know market. They come in AC and DC units. The DC units are cordless when it is time to get your shears sharpened? Can you cut a and are powered by batteries. The DC units are not as powerful as wet facial tissue with your shears? If not, it’s time. Try to cut a the AC units, but offer freedom from the electrical cord. dangling piece of thread using all areas of the blade, working Clippers are a great tool to use in the salon. When purchasing your way from one end to the other. If your shears just fold the clippers and trimmers, they normally come with length guard thread, check your tension. If your tension is okay, it’s time to attachments. Many clients come into the salon and tell the stylist get your shears sharpened. they want a #2 on the sides and a #3 on the top. Anyone can do Razors, Clippers, and Trimmers this. An accomplished stylist will take classes and learn how to do clipper over comb. This technique cannot be duplicated at home and it gives a much more customized look for the client. The technique is the same as with scissor over comb. It is essential to lift the hair up to cut so that when it falls it will be slightly layered. This is so there will be no lines cut into the haircut. Only cut sections of hair that are 1 to 1½ inches in width. As you work around the head, the head shape will change fairly quickly. Razor cuts have been very popular for the last few years. This Working in small sections will allow you to contour the cut to is because they create a softer edge that actually translates into the client’s head shape. an edgier, shattered look. The razor can transform an ordinary It is essential to have a lightweight balanced clipper that is haircut into something new and exciting. comfortable to hold and a comb designed for clipper cuts. The Razor cuts tend to look the best on medium to coarse textured comb will be wider and flatter than an average comb and the hair. A skilled hairdresser with a light hand can do a great job of clipper will glide over the teeth much more easily. The combs razoring fine hair. Curly hair may have a tendency to get frizzy if come in light and dark colors and a stylist needs both. If the client cut with a razor, so be careful with this hair type. has dark hair, the light colored comb will make it much easier to Creating the shorter hairs within the haircut allows the wearer to see the hair to give a precision cut. Conversely, the dark colored build volume into their hair. The shorter hairs have a tendency comb is the comb to use on clients with light colored hair. to want to stand up thereby holding up the longer hairs. Styling Trimmers (or edgers) are the finishing tool used for very short products work more efficiently on the lighter hair. In addition, haircuts, whether created with scissors or a clipper. Trimmers are hair that has multiple lengths built into it will tease much more used to clean up the hairline, finish a sideburn, and to clean the readily than will hair with a blunt cut. hair off and out of the ear. This can be a great addition to your haircutting offerings for your long hair clients who don’t want to lose any length. The razor Thinning Shears and Notching Shears will texturize the hair and give it more movement and swing Thinning shears and notching shears are used to remove bulk while allowing the length to remain. from the hair without removing length. The teeth size and A razor is used at a 45 degree angle to the hair and can be used spacing affects the final result. Stylists can overuse this tool. If to cut the hair if heavy pressure is applied or it can be used to thinning shears are used at every appointment and the client gets texturize the hair if light pressure is used. The stylist can use the their hair cut once every month, soon most of the hair will be cut razor for the entire haircut or just at the ends to customize the in a short cut with just a few long strands left of the original cut. look and break up some of the heaviness of the hair. If stylists overuse thinning shears at a single appointment, the same thing can happen. If you hold thinning shears on a piece of Clippers come in many different styles, colors and configurations. hair and continue to open and close the blades, all the hair will They are used to create short haircuts, fades, and flat tops. They soon be cut off. come with one of three different motors to power them. How do you know which type to buy? Is one kind of motor better than If a client has naturally curly hair and the hair is thinned too another? closely to the head, the short curly hair will soon resemble an afro under the longer hair which will hold the longer hair out The first type of motor is themagnetic motor. The design from the head. The client will look like they have more hair than is simple and reliable with few moving parts. It’s virtually when the thinning started. maintenance free and needs no internal oiling. The motor consists of a spring and an electromagnet working together to To use thinning shears, comb a vertical section of hair out from the head and place the thinning shears into the section from the

Page 4 INFORMED bottom about one third to half way down the strand. Place at a 45 Haircutting Partings degree angle and close the thinning shears but do not necessarily shut them the whole way. If necessary, slide the shears out closer Four sections versus five sections to the ends and repeat. When cutting hair, many times the stylist will part the hair into If you buy thinning shears with a double row of teeth, not much four or five sections. When doing a haircut where there will be hair will be removed. That’s because much of the hair will slip no layering on the top, part the hair into four sections. Examples between the teeth and will not be cut. A thinning shear with include a 0 degree cut and a 45 degree cut. Pull down a guideline one row of teeth and one regular blade will remove more hair. at the bottom of each section as you prepare to cut that section. Notching shears will remove the most hair. When doing a layered haircut, part the hair into five sections. Thinning and Notching shears can range from 5 teeth to 60 teeth Examples include a 90 degree haircut and a 180 degree haircut. and everything in between. A notching shear with 5 teeth will This parting allows you to have an interior guideline that will be create dramatic effects, removing large sections of hair. A 60 cut in the top section that you will use in addition to an exterior tooth thinning shear will carefully blend the thinned hair with the guideline. original hair. When parting five sections, pull down a guideline the entire way It is important to hold your tools correctly so that you have control around the head so that you will be able to create the outline of over them and so you don’t become prone to repetitive injuries. the whole haircut first, and will be able to see the length of the bangs, sides and back. Shears: To hold your shears and thinning shears, take your dominant hand and place the ring finger of that hand into the Immediately after cutting the exterior guideline, you will cut the finger grip of the still blade and place your thumb into the thumb interior guideline, basing the length of the interior guideline off grip of the moving blade. Place your little finger on the tang the bang length. Part a slim section right through the middle of and your index and middle finger should rest on the pivot of the the top section, similar to a Mohawk. Cut this Mohawk section shears. from the bangs to the apex of the head. Now when you take horizontal sections from the left side of the top section to the right When holding both the comb and shears in preparation to cut side of the top section and hold up the hair, your new interior hair you will perform two actions; palming the shears and guideline will be visible in the center of the section. The hair on transferring the comb. When palming the shears, you take your either side of the Mohawk can now be cut to the same length. thumb out of the thumb grip and roll the shears into the palm of your hand. Now, the shears are safely held by the ring finger and At this point, you will have the outline of the cut, and the top you have two fingers (the index and the middle finger) and the length will be determined, so it’s just a case of “connecting the thumb to hold the comb. dots” into the desired shape to finish the haircut from interior guideline to exterior guideline. When transferring the comb, you will take the comb that has just finished combing a section of hair and you will place it under the Haircutting Procedures thumb on the non-dominant hand. Now, the thumb can be placed back in the thumb grip by the dominant hand and you can cut the There are many different ways to part and cut hair, but here are hair. some basic techniques and ideas to perhaps suggest a different way than the way you are cutting hair now. Razors: There are two ways you can hold your razor; the three finger hold and the finger wrap hold. To hold the razor in the three 0 degree haircut finger hold, open the razor so that the handle is higher than the When cutting a 0 degree cut, the hair should be parted in 4 shank. Place the thumb in the thumb grip, and place the index, sections. To simplify the cut, only bring down a guideline in the middle and ring finger on the shank. Place the little finger in the two back sections of the head to start. tang. To hold the razor in the finger wrap hold, open the razor so the shank and handle form a straight line. Place the thumb on the Ask the client to bend their head forward, with their chin thumb grip and wrap all the fingers around the handle and shank. bending towards their chest. This will cause the hair on the top of the head to travel further to get to the cutting line. Clippers: One way to hold the clippers is to place your palm When the head returns to an upright position, the hair will be over the clipper and place your thumb on the side of the clipper. slightly beveled with the hair on top a little longer than the hair Another way to hold the clippers is to place your thumb on the underneath. This will create a beautiful, straight line whether the top of the clippers and place the rest of your fingers underneath. head is moving forward or is in an upright position. Posture and body position The guideline is cut first, again with the client’s head bent Good posture and body position will help you to avoid back and forward. Hold the hair as close to the back as possible, no more foot problems and will make sure your haircut will turn out great. than one finger width away from the back. For an even more precise line, hold the hair against the client’s back with the comb The first position you want to be aware of is the position of the in the non-dominant hand and then cut. client. Make sure the client is sitting up straight with their legs uncrossed. It is more efficient to move the client with the chair, Make sure the cape is lying flat and there are no towels or than to walk around the client, so make sure to turn the client bulky clothing holding the hair unnaturally away from the whenever necessary to reduce fatigue on your part. back. Carefully check to make sure your guideline is not going uphill or downhill. This will have an effect on the front of the Next, you want to make sure you are working directly in front of haircut, even if the line is just slightly angled. The angle will be your section. This will keep your body weight centered.

INFORMED Page 5 magnified as it travels around to the sides and one side will look the right of the cut hair and combine it with the previously cut much longer than the other. After checking the straightness of hair. Comb all the rest of the hair not in your hand firmly to the the line, each subsequent section in the back is brought down to right so the section you are cutting is isolated. Hold the hair in this line and cut to the same length. the same position as before with the fingertips pointing up and When all the hair in the back of the head is cut, the head can be the palm facing your body. Now you should see a guideline at returned to an upright position. the bottom of this section, as well as the traveling guideline from the previous section. Cut all hair to this guideline. Now, turn the client’s head so that they are looking over their shoulder. Make sure the client keeps their chin up. If their head Lower the hair carefully so you can again see the section that is tilted down and you cut the hair straight it will be angled up was just cut, and repeat the above steps until you reach the when they return their head to its normal position. hairline on the right side. The front section of the client’s hair should be hanging freely in At this point, return to the middle of the cut. Section a new piece front of them. Take a section of hair from the back and bring it of hair on the left side of the middle section. Comb the hair out up over the shoulder to act as a guideline for the front. Cut the the same way as previously, comb all the other hair away from front guideline to the same length as the back, keeping in mind this section to isolate it and cut the hair to the guideline. Work the angle of your fingers when doing so. section by section over until you reach the left hairline. If your fingers are held horizontally the haircut will be the same Take down another section of hair in the back and start with a length from front to back. If the fingers are angled downward vertical section in the middle back. Hold the hair out the same towards the front, the hair will be longer in the front than in the way as before and cut all hair to the guideline. Work your way back. If the fingers are angled up towards the front there will over to the right hairline and then return to center and work your be some framing of the face. This is an area where you want to way over to the left hairline. Repeat the entire way up to the top make sure you do exactly what the client wants. This will be of the back sections. disappointing to the client if the hair is shorter in the front and Caution - at no time should you lift the hair any higher than 45 she desired a one length haircut. Take down sections on the side degrees. The hair at the top of the head should still travel down and cut to the guideline until all hair on the first side is cut to the to a low elevation to be cut. guideline. When the entire back is completed, pull down the guideline on Before turning the head and preparing to cut the other front one side and cut to the guideline established in the back. Begin section, take down the guideline on the 2nd side. Position the taking down additional hair on the side. Start at the back of the client’s head straight forward and cut off a small section of hair section. Take a vertical slice of hair that contains some of the at the front of the 2nd side so that it matches the length on the first previously cut hair from the back of the head, as well as some side. This will help to ensure the haircut is the same length on uncut hair from the front. Isolate the section by combing the both sides. After the length is determined on the 2nd side, turn the hair not selected off to the right and left firmly. Hold the hair out client’s head and finish the guideline, blending the hair into the at a 45 degree angle and cut all hair to the guideline. Continue back lengths. Continue taking sections of hair down and cut to with the traveling guideline until you reach the front hairline. the guideline until all hair on the 2nd side is cut. Continue bringing down sections of hair and cutting them in the same manner until the entire side is complete. 45 degree haircut Bring down the guideline on the 2nd side. Position the client’s head When cutting a 45 degree cut, the hair should be parted in 4 straight forward and cut off a small section of hair at the front of sections. To simplify this cut, only bring down a guideline in the the 2nd side so that it matches the length on the first side. This will two back sections of the head to start. help to ensure the haircut is the same length on both sides. After Ask the client to bend their head forward, and cut the guideline the length is determined on the 2nd side, turn the client’s head and at 0 degrees. Return their head to an upright position and bring finish the guideline, blending the hair into the back lengths. down the next sections in the back. Continue bringing down sections of hair and cutting them at a 45 Starting in the middle back, take a thin vertical section and degree angle until the entire side is complete. comb it out from the head, holding it down at a 45 degree angle. Straight out from the head would be 90 degrees, so you want the Variations- forward diagonal hair to project out from the head half way between straight out When cutting the forward diagonal, the hair in the back two and straight down. sections is cut similar to the back two sections in a basic 45 Comb the hair with the dominant hand held with the elbow degree cut. However, when combing the hair out to be cut, the pointing up and the tips of the fingers pointing down. Hold hair will be overdirected toward the middle. The hair will still the hair to be cut in the non-dominant hand with the fingertips be combed at a 45 degree angle and the middle sections will pointing up and the palm facing your body. be combed straight out from the head. As you work your way towards the sides however, you begin overdirecting the hair With the hand at the 45 degree position, cut off the hair just in towards the middle. When you are done, the hair should pulled down to match the guideline. Lower the hair carefully so gradually get longer and longer the closer to the ear you get and you can see the section that was just cut. the middle should be the shortest. Part this section in two. Keep the half towards the right side of On the first side, comb the hair straight down and just follow the the head, and comb the rest of the section firmly towards the left forward diagonal line you can see has been developed. Bring along with the uncut hair. Take a thin, vertical section of hair to

Page 6 INFORMED down the guideline on the 2nd side. Position the client’s head angle, cut the hair using the already established guideline. The hair straight forward and cut off a small section of hair at the front will be cut up until approximately the occipital bone area and then of the 2nd side so that it matches the length on the first side. This you’re done. If the shorter hair lengths do not reach the 45 degree will help to ensure the haircut is the same length on both sides. angle, they do not get cut. If you try to cut them, you will raise the After the length is determined on the 2nd side, turn the client’s angle of your hands and you will be doing a 90 degree cut rather head and finish the guideline, blending the hair into the back than the 45 degree graduation you were striving for. This variation lengths at a 45 degree angle. puts a lot of bounce and movement into a 90 degree cut. To finish this haircut, you can keep the hair in the front as a 0 90 degree haircut degree cut, just bringing the hair down to a stationary guideline When cutting a 90 degree cut, the hair should be parted in 5 and cutting all hair on the sides to the guideline. However, you sections. When parting five sections, pull down a guideline the must blend the hair in the front into the shorter lengths in the back. entire way around the head so that you will be able to create An easy way to do this is to take horizontal sections of hair the outline of the whole haircut first and will be able to see the right over the ear and blend the two sections together. Start at length of the bangs, sides and back. the crown of the head and part off a horizontal section of hair Cut the bang length first, only cutting from the end of the directly above the ear. When combing the hair out, overdirect eyebrow to the end of the eyebrow. Determine this section it towards the back. You will see the short layered hair in the by how the hair lies naturally. Do not overdirect hair into this back and as you rotate your hand you will end up with a short section or you will have hair cut the same length as the bangs, piece of hair at the very front of the hair. Cut off the point that’s lying on the top of the hair on the side of the client’s head. in between. Continue down the side of the head, over the ear, taking horizontal sections and over directing them towards the Next cut the back guideline. The back guideline extends from back until you reach the bottom of the section. Do the same the back of the ear to the back of the ear. Start in the middle and procedure on the other side. establish your length. Slightly overdirect the rest of the back guideline towards the middle. Do not comb it out at an angle If your client would like bangs or a little movement in her hair between the back and the ear. This will keep more hair length in the front, you will need to pull down a guideline that frames behind the ears where the client can see it. Failure to do this can the face and cut to the desired length. Section off a top section of result in a haircut that looks shorter than intended. hair that extends from the middle of the eye to the middle of the other eye and back to the apex of the head. At this point you are ready to connect the sides. You now have a beginning point and an ending point and can connect them with You will now cut the interior guideline, basing the length of the an angled cut. To create the angle between the two, simply grasp interior guideline off the bang length. Part a slim section right the hair of the bangs and a little more hair on the side that wasn’t through the middle of the top section, similar to a Mohawk. Cut cut yet. Bring your hand straight down as if gravity were causing this Mohawk section from the bangs to the apex of the head. your hand to drop. Upon reaching the guideline length that was Now when you take horizontal sections from the left side of the cut in the bangs, stop and start rotating your hand downward top section to the right side of the top section and hold up the towards the front. Do not let your guideline go, but simply rotate hair, your new interior guideline will be visible in the center of the hair, letting the lower lengths slide through your fingers. The the section. The hair on either side of the Mohawk can now be further you rotate, the longer your side pieces will stay. Why do cut to the same length. you slide your hand straight down and then rotate? Gravity is At this point, you will have the outline of the cut, and the top going to force the hair to hang straight down, so it just makes length will be determined, so it’s just a case of “connecting the sense to cut it that way. dots” into the desired shape to finish the haircut from interior Work your way down the sides of the guideline until all hair guideline to exterior guideline. is blended and the sides match. Immediately after cutting the To do this, you will need to elevate the hair on the sides, similar exterior guideline, you will cut the interior guideline, basing the to doing a 180 degree cut so that the angles and look of the cut length of the interior guideline off the bang length. Part a slim are not disturbed. When you elevate the hair, and match it to the section right through the middle of the top section, similar to a top section, the only hair that should be cut off will be a little Mohawk. Cut this Mohawk section from the bangs to the apex of point. The hair on the top of the head has already been cut and the head. The angle and height you hold the hair at this point will the hair at the bottom should not be disturbed, so you are simply determine how long the layers will be in the haircut. blending the two together. As you work around the head, check Now when you take horizontal sections from the left side of the the crown area as well to ensure that a long point is not left in top section to the right side of the top section and hold up the this area. Very little hair is removed when layering this cut but it hair, your new interior guideline will be visible in the center of creates a lot of movement in the cut. the section. The hair on either side of the Mohawk can now be Variation- 90 degree cut with 45 degree nape area cut to the same length. Many times women who get their hair cut in a 90 degree cut feel At this point, you will have the outline of the cut, and the top that their hair could use a little lift in the back. At the conclusion of length will be determined, so it’s just a case of “connecting the the 90 degree haircut, you can put a 45 degree graduation into the dots” into the desired shape to finish the haircut from interior hair in the nape area and completely change the look of the cut. guideline to exterior guideline. You will re-part the hair in the back and bring down a section of Because you are doing a 90 degree cut, you will want to follow hair. Starting in the middle and holding the hair out at a 45 degree the shape of the head as you are layering. Part the top section that

INFORMED Page 7 is already cut right down the middle so the client has a middle Cut the bang length first, only cutting from the end of the part. If you are right handed, you are going to start cutting the eyebrow to the end of the eyebrow. Determine this section hair on the right side, if left handed, start on the left side. by how the hair lies naturally. Do not overdirect hair into this For purposes of explaining this cut, the following directions will section or you will have hair cut the same length as the bangs, be for right-handed people. For left-handed people, just reverse the lying on the top of the hair on the side of the client’s head. directions. Picking up the right side of the top section and about an Next cut the back guideline. The back guideline extends from inch of the right side section, elevate the hair directly out from the the back of the ear to the back of the ear. Start in the middle and head following the shape of the head. To do this, grasp the hair to establish your length. Slightly overdirect the rest of the back be cut at the base of the hair, resting your hand on the head. This guideline towards the middle. Do not comb it out at an angle will allow your hand to follow the contour of the head. Without between the back and the ear. This will keep more hair length changing the angle of your hand, pull it directly out from the head. behind the ears where the client can see it. Failure to do this can Cut off the hair that extends past your guideline and fingers. Work result in a haircut that looks shorter than intended. your way back the side section, cutting the hair, keeping your hand At this point you are ready to connect the sides. You now have a up against the middle part on top. Return to the front, and elevate beginning point and an ending point and can connect them with an the next section of hair down straight out from the head. Again, angled cut. To create the angle between the two, simply grasp the relax your hand against the head to get the correct angle. Cut off hair of the bangs and a little more hair on the side that wasn’t cut the hair that extends past your guideline and fingers. Work your yet. Bring your hand straight down as if gravity were causing your way to the back of the section. Return to the front, and elevate hand to drop. Upon reaching the guideline length that was cut in the last section on the side. You should see the traveling guideline the bangs, stop and start rotating your hand downward towards from the top and you should also see the exterior guideline at the the front. Do not let your guideline go, but simply rotate the hair, bottom. Simply cut off the hair in-between that does not follow the letting the lower lengths slide through your fingers. The further guideline. Work your way to the back of the section. you rotate, the longer your side pieces will stay. Make sure your Take down the next section in the back right. Start at the top of the body moves the direction you are rotating the hair towards. section. Your guideline will be the hair cut in the first side section For very long hair, you might find yourself standing on the other and the top hair. To work across the top of this section, you must side of the client, pulling her hair toward you. If you are working take pie-shaped sections with the bottom of the section larger than on fairly long hair and do not rotate enough, your sides will be the top. Make sure you have a piece of hair from the apex in every short and will not blend into the bottom length. In other words, section as you work across the crown. Follow the same procedure you will create a mullet!! Why do you slide your hand straight as the side section. Working across the section and then down in a down and then rotate? Gravity is going to force the hair to hang pattern until you reach the guideline at the bottom. straight down, so it just makes sense to cut it that way. Take down the next back section, and follow the same procedure Work your way down the sides of the guideline until all hair is as the other back section. Finally, take down the side section on blended and the sides match. This is the most difficult part of the left and follow the same procedure as on the other side. Since the 180 degree haircut. Immediately after cutting the exterior you worked around the head, you will now be standing in front guideline, you will cut the interior guideline, basing the length of the client, cutting the last section. of the interior guideline off the bang length. Part a slim section At this point it is important to cross check your haircut. Starting right through the middle of the top section, similar to a Mohawk. at the middle back in the crown area, take a horizontal section Cut this Mohawk section from the bangs to the apex of the of hair and hold up. Look for any hairs that are too long, but be head. The angle and height you hold the hair at this point will careful. Take off the least amount of hair you can that will still determine how long the layers will be in the haircut. make the haircut even. Be very conservative with this check or If a client desires fairly short bangs but doesn’t want short layers you will create a new haircut that has been cut horizontally and throughout her hair, you will have to overdirect the top Mohawk you will then have to check it vertically. This could go on and on section forward, matching the hair to the bangs but letting length until the client is bald. So, just remember, take off a conservative in the layers towards the crown. Now when you take horizontal amount of hair if you think a section is too long. Continue down sections from the left side of the top section to the right side of the middle back of the head checking the hair horizontally. the top section and hold up the hair, your new interior guideline When that section is completed, go back up to the top of the head will be visible in the center of the section. The hair on either side and check horizontal sections right behind the ear down to the of the Mohawk can now be cut to the same length. hairline. Move to the side and starting at the top, take horizontal If you have overdirected the Mohawk section, be very careful sections down to the hairline. Repeat the sections behind the ear in this top section. Take thin horizontal sections to match to the and on the side on the other side of the head. Finally, go around Mohawk. If you take thicker sections, you may get confused as the guideline one more time and double check the guide. the interior guideline keeps getting longer the closer you get to 180 degree haircut the crown. In a thick section, you may see multiple guides. When cutting a 180 degree cut, the hair should be parted in 5 Part the top section that is already cut right down the middle sections. When parting five sections, pull down a guideline the so the client has a middle part. At this point, you will have the entire way around the head so that you will be able to create outline of the cut, and the top length will be determined, so it’s the outline of the whole haircut first and will be able to see the just a case of “connecting the dots” into the desired shape to length of the bangs, sides and back. finish the haircut from interior guideline to exterior guideline.

Page 8 INFORMED So, how do you “connect the dots?” Anytime, you want the The scissor over comb technique is invaluable in blending short hair to remain long you must overdirect it away from where it hair with slightly longer hair, such as in a man’s haircut. You grows out of the head. To keep the hair long in a 180 degree cut start at the hairline and work your way up the head, using the , the hair must be overdirected upwards until it reaches the top comb to hold the hair. The area you are working on should be at guideline. The long hair between the interior guideline and the eye level. It is important to keep the comb angled out from the exterior guideline is then cut off. head, and to lift the hair above where it grows out of the head. Right handed people should start on the left side of the head This will ensure that the hair will be blended without lines when in the front side section. Starting on the left side means that it lays back down into its natural fall. the elbow will be elevated and the tips of the fingers will be This technique works best on dry hair, and it is important to keep slanted at a downward angle. This is a more natural position the still blade parallel to the comb while the moving blade does than starting on the other side, and trying to drop the elbow the cutting. The comb moves upward in a smooth motion while and elevate the tips of the fingers. Left handed people of course the shears cut the hair. Cross check your scissors over comb should start on the right side for the same reasons. technique by working across the area diagonally. Take a thin, vertical section of hair, slicing the whole way from Point cutting is an amazing technique that can add movement middle part in the top section down to the hairline on the side. to longer lengths of hair and can aid in blending. This technique Comb this section up into the correct elevation to be able to should be used on dry hair. Lift the hair up away from the scalp connect the top and bottom guidelines. Cut the hair off that and let about 3” of hair protrude from your fingers. Turn the extends past the line created by these two guidelines. palm of your hand to face you so that the ends of the hair are When dropping this section, place it forward, so that it is separate now parallel to the floor. Turn your dominant hand over, holding from the sections still needing cut. Slice out half of the previously the shears, so that you are looking at the top of your hand and cut side section and then slice out a thin section from the hair that the palm of that hand is facing the ground. Insert the shears into has not yet been cut. Comb both of these sections up together the hair, at the same angle as the hair. While pulling the shears to the correct elevation. Now you will have the guideline at the out of the section, away from you, close the shears. middle top, the guideline at the bottom, and all the hair that was This technique removes very little hair, so you can keep going cut in the previous section as your guideline. Continue around the in to the same section over and over and get a very subtle head working from the left side, around the back and to the right texturizing of the ends. When you drop the hair, if it needs more side. When you are finishing the haircut, you should be standing texturizing, simply pick the same section up and repeat. in front of the client, with the client to your right. Safety in haircutting This haircut must be crosschecked to ensure it is straight. Starting There are some things you need to keep in mind when cutting at the middle back in the crown area, take a horizontal section hair to keep yourself and your client safe. of hair and hold up. Look for any hairs that are too long, but be 1. Always palm the shears. This keeps the shears closed and careful. Take off the least amount of hair you can that will still pointed away from the client. make the haircut even. Be very conservative with this check or 2. Don’t cut past the second knuckle. This will keep you from you will create a new haircut that has been cut horizontally and cutting the fleshy part of your finger. Instead, move your you will then have to check it vertically. This could go on and on hand so that the section of hair needing cut falls between the until the client is bald. So, just remember, take off a conservative tip of the finger and the nd2 knuckle. amount of hair if you think a section is too long. Continue down 3. When working with a razor, always use a guard. the middle back of the head checking the hair horizontally. 4. When disposing of a razor blade, place it in a sharps container When that section is completed, go back up to the top of the head so that no one gets cut with it when taking out the trash. and check horizontal sections right behind the ear down to the 5. Wash hands before and after each client. hairline. Move to the side and starting at the top, take horizontal 6. Sweep up hair before blow drying the client’s hair. Cut hair sections down to the hairline. Repeat the sections behind the ear is very slippery. and on the side on the other side of the head. Finally, go around 7. Always drape the client to protect their clothing and skin. the guideline one more time and double check the guide. 8. Sanitize all implements and tools after every client. 9. Replace the blade in your razor after each client. Haircutting techniques 10. Sanitize your station after each client. There are some interesting techniques that can add a lot of fun and interest to your haircutting repertoire. These techniques Haircutting Tips allow you to get the hair to move in ways you can’t achieve with basic cuts. The techniques include slide cutting, scissor over Haircutting tip #1 - The consultation is vitally comb, and point cutting. important Slide cutting is a method of cutting the hair by allowing the The consultation is the most important part of any haircut. You shears to glide along the edge of the hair. Slide cutting can can be the most brilliant hairdresser in the world, and if you only be achieved with high quality shears because only one don’t listen to your client and do what he or she wants, you will blade does the cutting. The shears are never closed during this have no business. You must talk to your client about the cut and technique. It is a very useful technique to blend shorter bangs actually LISTEN to their responses. It does you no good if your with much longer lengths in the back of the hair. This technique brain is mulling over the chores you need to get done at home, or is always performed on wet hair.

INFORMED Page 9 the errands you need to run after work. You must be fully present In most cases, you are a stranger and their senses are on full and attentive during this conversation. alert for anything you are about to do to them. Putting the cape Use reference points on the head to aid in understanding. Don’t on them is tragic if they can’t see their hands. Put the cape on be afraid to use photos to enhance your understanding of what slowly and gently and have the parent free their hands so they the client wants. In addition, reflective listening is very helpful in don’t feel so helpless. making sure you and the client are on the same page. Reflective If you are going to spray their hair with a water bottle, try spraying listening means repeating back to the client what you think they your hand and then working the water into the hair with your said, in your own words. If you have misunderstood the client, fingers. Spray bottles can startle the best of us with an unexpected this technique will bring that to light and help to make sure you squirt. Eliminate that surprise and the child will remain calmer. are both talking about the same thing. Explain to the parent, that under no circumstances do you want For instance, many people who wear short hair will say they want them to hold the child’s head still. The child is in a strange a trim in the back. If you ask them to point to how short they want environment and now someone wants to hold them down in a their hair, many of them will point to an area on their head halfway headlock. This is not a good scenario. between their hairline and their occipital bone. Now if you really Practice holding the hair tightly between your fingers in cut their hair that short, we would have a lot of people running preparation for cutting but keeping your arms and hands ready to around looking like medieval monks. This is where you use your move with the child’s movements. This will eliminate having to knowledge and experience and explain where their hairline is and pick up the hair time and time again to just cut one piece. let them know just how short you can make their hair. Children are frightened by the sound of the scissors or clippers at In contrast, how many times has a client with long hair entered their ear, so make that area one of the last to be cut. Hair falling a salon for a trim and had 3 inches removed from her hair? In into the face while cutting the bangs is not comfortable for anyone this case, the hairdresser sees the split ends and straggly hair and so keep the hair moist, and while cutting, catch as much hair as feels they know better than their client what is needed. If you you can with the non-dominant hand to keep it off the child’s face. inform the client that they need 3 inches off, and they agree to this, it’s a win-win situation. However, if they don’t agree to this, What happens if you do all these things and the child is still do NOT cut 3 inches off the hair. You will feel justified in doing hysterical? Try showing a favorite video while cutting their hair so, but the client will never return and will probably avoid going to get their mind off the cut. If necessary, allow them to climb to a hairdresser for months or even years after that, making the down off the chair and give them a toy to play with. If your problem even worse. health allows, get down on the floor with them and cut their hair while they play. Gain the clients trust by simply trimming their hair ends and then taking some time to trim the split ends off the hair layers. Usually, once they see there is nothing to fear, the next time they How do you do this without affecting the length of their hair? will sit in the chair and allow you to cut their hair. You will have to use your imagination, but if you can get the child comfortable If you comb a person’s hair flat and hold it down with a comb, in your chair, you will have gained a new client and possibly the the splits will tend to stick up from the surface of the hair. Get a child’s family as clients as well. comfortable chair to sit in and take 15 minutes and just snip the splits off the surface of the hair without touching the length of Haircutting tip #3 - Less is more the hair. Most split ends are not at the bottom of the hair anyway. When cutting hair, the old statement “it’s easier to take off more, They tend to be found throughout the hair. than glue it back on” is so true. It is so important to make sure you After snipping the splits, recommend a good leave-in conditioner and the client are speaking the same language in regards to length. that won’t leave the hair feeling greasy. Explain to the client that For instance, when doing a clipper cut, begin cutting the hair on the conditioner will not “heal” her hair but will hold the ends the side of the head, being conservative to start with. Stop when together so the hair does not split further. you get to the ear and ask the client if the length looks okay to Recommend monthly trims where the client knows you will only them. If not, it is an easy task to take more off and then finish the be removing 1/8’ to ¼” of hair and will be going over the surface haircut. If you are very aggressive with the length at the start, the of the hair to snip off splits. Explain to the client that their hair hair is cut too short and the client will leave unhappy. will be growing ½” each month, so that even with the trims, When cutting the top of a layered cut, many people have very their hair will be getting longer and the trims will get it into a definite ideas on how short they like their hair. It doesn’t behave healthy state. In a matter of a few months with the client trusting the way they desire if it is too long or too short. Cut your interior you enough to come in for monthly visits, and using a leave in guideline and then use that to cut the entire top of the hair to conditioner, split ends can be banished from the hair. the guide’s length. At this point, ask the client to look at and to feel the hair. What is the best case scenario? You have cut it the Haircutting tip #2 - Children’s haircuts take correct length or it is a little too long. At this point you can make patience and imagination it a little shorter until the client is satisfied and you don’t have to When cutting children’s hair, patience is a necessary virtue. If go back and do the entire haircut over. this stresses you out, imagine it from the child’s point of view. When cutting the back guideline on long hair, it is important to Mom and Dad usually only take them to see strangers when they beware of a false guideline. Many clients with long hair have are going to the doctor’s office, where they generally get a shot a shorter, broken layer that rests on their back. The constant which hurts. Now Mom and Dad bring them into your shop, sit friction from the hair rubbing their back as well as breakage them down on your chair, and tell you to cut their hair.

Page 10 INFORMED from ponytail bands creates this layer. If you are not paying then be necessary to comb the eyebrow hair up to get some attention, you may trim this first layer, and then pull down the remaining hairs. This procedure can be repeated until all hairs next section and cut off the 4-5 inches that are extending over the are trimmed to a normal length. If long hairs are growing in false guideline. One solution is to take a slightly thicker guideline between the eyebrows, giving a unibrow effect, the trimmer can when dealing with long hair so you see the true guideline. be used to trim these hairs down to skin level. If a client asks you to cut their hair to the tip of their ear, make Some men will need their nose hairs trimmed. It will be helpful sure you know which tip they are talking about. They may want to keep a pair of shears with a rounded edge just for this purpose. their ear lobe to be showing, and you may cut out the hair around Rest the non-dominant hand against the clients face and then rest their ear entirely, taking it to the top tip. the dominant hand, holding the shears, on the first hand. This Communication is the key to making sure you always give the will steady your hand to be able to safely trim down the stray client what they want. You may not be a celebrity hairstylist, but hairs protruding from the client’s nose. if you listen to people, you will be fully booked at all times. Haircutting tip #6 - Beards and moustaches Haircutting tip #4 - Detailing, detailing, detailing If your male clients wear beards and moustaches, part of your People spend a lot of money getting their cars detailed so they service should include keeping them trimmed and neat. look their very best. Many hairstylists, however, simply move When trimming a moustache, it should be cut to follow the around the head and mechanically cut a 45 degree or 90 degree outline of the lips. You should rest your non-dominant hand on haircut. When they get to the end, the haircut is over. This will the client’s face and then rest your dominant hand on the non- make for a mediocre haircut at best. dominant hand for a steady cut. After cleaning up the line of At the conclusion of any haircut, it essential to cross check the the moustache, it is time to layer it. Place your comb under the haircut. This will ensure that any stray hairs have been found and moustache hairs, and comb up coming out and away from the removed. After the cross check you must comb the hair down face. Cut off the hairs that are sticking out from the comb. Lift and recheck the guideline to ensure the hair is lying correctly. the comb higher and repeat, similar to doing a scissor over comb technique on the hair. Continue across the moustache using your If you feel you don’t have time for these two steps, you will first cut as your guideline. You will see the moustache hair lying create the haircuts that have to be “fixed” at home by a family much smoother and more controlled than before cutting. member with a pair of paper cutting scissors. Obviously, this is not going to earn you a return visit from that client. When cutting a beard, the first step is to outline the beard. Determine the shape you want the beard to have around the face How do you find and get rid of those stray hairs around the and eliminate any stray hairs using your trimmer. The neckline ears in short haircuts? The hair grows back away from the is always an area where stylists aren’t sure what to cut and what face around the ears, so a simple technique is to comb the hair to let on the neck. A good guideline is to have the client lean forward and let the ear hold the hair in place. Place the shears his head backwards so that you can see the line where the head behind the ear and cut around the ear toward the face. This will meets the neck. It will be in the shape of an upside down U. help you get most of the strays. If you cut toward the back of the All hair below this U should be trimmed away. The hair at the head around the ears, the hair will simply lie against the head corner of the jaw should remain and then a line should be created and your shears will pass over it, not cutting anything. straight up from this corner into the sideburns. This will give the Another technique that will help behind the ears is to comb the wearer a very clean look and will make their face appear thinner. hair toward the ear and press the comb to the head, holding the Allowing the hair to grow onto the wearer’s neck will add visual strays forward with the comb in the non-dominant hand. Using weight to their face. the other hand, snip off the pieces that are projecting forward. Haircutting tip #7 - Hairlines If using trimmers, especially trimmers with a T-shaped blade, When cutting the hair around the hairline, it is important to place the trimmers behind the ear with only the very edge of observe the way the hair grows. The hair at the temple area grows one side of the blade touching the head. Draw an imaginary line back away from the face. When cutting a very short haircut, against the skin with the trimmer around the ear. The edge of the many times this hair will remain longer if going over it with blade will pick up the long hairs that grow around the ear and clippers. It is necessary to comb it forward onto to the face with will cut them off without disturbing the rest of the hair. the comb in the non-dominant hand and then cut off the excess Haircutting tip #5 - Ears, eyebrows, and noses with your shears or a trimmer. When cutting very short haircuts, the neckline can be a problem for the same reason. Clients can A man’s haircut is not finished until you check their ears, have swirls and areas in the neckline where the hair grows in an eyebrows and nose. Trimmers, especially trimmers with a T-blade upward direction. If you use clippers on this hair and are directing are very helpful in trimming the hair on and in the ear. The edge them in an upward manner, the clipper will glide right over the of the blade can be inserted into the opening of the ear and rotated hair and this hair is going to remain longer. You will have to around until all hair is removed. On the outside of the ear, check comb the hair in the opposite direction in which it grows and then the top, sides and back of the ear for stray hairs. They can grow remove the excess length with shears or trimmers. so long they look like they are a stray hair in the haircut! The hair in the bang area can be a challenge if the client has a When trimming eyebrows, it is helpful to have a wide, flat comb cowlick in this area. There are two ways to approach a cowlick to use. The hair can be combed down and all hair protruding in the bangs. First, you can simply cut the hair into a long V from the comb can be cut off with scissors or a trimmer. It will directly over the cowlick. When the hair springs up, the goal

INFORMED Page 11 is to have it spring up level with the rest of the bangs. Another Principles of Haircutting technique that works very well is to take all the tension off the bangs before cutting them. To do this, it is necessary to rest your Self-Assessment non-dominant hand against the face at the desired level for the Select the best answer for each question and mark your answers cut. Comb the hair and grasp to cut, but then open the fingers so on the Self-Assessment Answer Sheet on page 89 or complete the hair can spring up to its natural level. Close the fingers again your test online at www.nccosmo.cme.edu. with no tension on the hair and the hand still resting against the face. Now when the bangs are cut, they will hang straight 1. You should sweep up the hair from a haircut before because they were cut without tension. what? a. Applying gel. b. Blow drying. c. Shampooing the next client. d. Taking the cape off.

2. Which one of the following is a shear handle grip that features an ergonomic design? a. Triple ring. b. Offset. c. Crane. d. Swivel.

3. Which shear handle grip allows for more comfort and control? a. Triple ring. b. Offset. c. Crane. d. Swivel.

4. Which line is used to create movement and lightness in the hair? a. Vertical. b. Stationary. c. Horizontal. d. Diagonal.

5. Which line is use to create weight in the hair? a. Vertical. b. Stationary. c. Horizontal. d. Diagonal.

Page 12 INFORMED Chapter 2 Perms – Current Styles and Methods (2 CE Hours)

Learning objectives are broken by changes in pH, which means when the hair is wet `` Discuss how permanent waves (perms) work with hair prior to a perm, if the pH of the water is 7 and the hair’s natural pH structures. is 4.5 - 5.5, the salt bonds are broken. So, these bonds have already `` Identify different types of perms. been broken when wetting the hair before shampooing it for a `` Discuss various methods of affecting a perm. perm. The hydrogen bonds are broken by water, so again wetting `` Identify the various rods used in creating perms. the hair prior to shampooing for a perm is enough to break these `` Discuss the affects of variations to a perm. bonds. (These are the two bonds that allow hair to curl when doing a roller set. They’re broken by water, the hair is wound around a Perm Refresher curler and dried and the set lasts until the hair is wet again). The word perm often conjures up images of frizzy, dry hair The third set of bonds, the disulfide bonds, are more difficult to or the big hair of the ’90s. However, with the emergence of break. When the perm solution is placed on the hair, the hair is soft waves and Taylor Swift-like curls in today’s media, it is reduced. What this means is that the disulfide bonds are broken, important that cosmetologists understand perming. The pin- and at each end of the broken bond, the end is given a hydrogen straight hair of the early 2000s is fading. Rich, luxurious waves atom to “hold”. This keeps the bonds broken while the perm are coming to the forefront. solution is working. Because the hair is wrapped around a rod, the bonds are shifted. How do perms work with the hair structure? Before discussing different strategies to perm the hair, it is Why did the hair turn purple or red when I important to understand how perms work. The structure of the applied the waving solution? hair consists of the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla. It helps If minerals and iron are present in the hair when perm solution is to remember that the cuticle is simply a protector for the “real” applied, the solution will turn colors, usually purple or red. This hair underneath. The cuticle is made up of overlapping scales that is not a cause for concern, but additional time may need to be raise and lower with the addition of various chemicals to the hair. added to properly process the perm. Rather than being alarmed Any products with an alkaline pH will raise the scales, allowing when this happens, look at it as an advantage. It is easier to tell the product to penetrate to the cortex where the real work begins. when all the solution is rinsed from the hair. If purple or red are The cuticle is also translucent, which means that the natural or still seen in the hair, additional rinsing time is needed. artificial color in the hair is readily seen from the outside. The cortex is where the real transformation occurs. The natural How does the neutralizer work? hair color is deposited in the cortex, as well as any artificial The main ingredient in neutralizer is usually hydrogen peroxide. color. The bonds in the cortex must be broken before perming or When the solution is rinsed out of the hair and the neutralizer relaxing can take place. Most of the strength of the hair resides is added, the neutralizer works as an oxidizer. The neutralizer in the cortex. adds an oxygen atom to the broken ends, bringing the ends back together by creating water. Remember, they are each “holding” The medulla is the innermost layer of the hair. It has no known a hydrogen atom, which would be H . When the neutralizer function, but we know it is present in coarse hair and absent in 2 introduces oxygen, this becomes H2O. The water runs down fine hair. the drain, and the bonds reattach in their new curly position. A perm will open the cuticle, soften and swell the hair, and break One disadvantage to hydrogen peroxide in neutralizer is that it the bonds in the cortex of the hair. The neutralizer will then close sometimes contributes to hair lightening after a perm. the cuticle, shrink and harden the hair and put the bonds in the cortex back together. Is there anything I can do if the hair lightens To understand the layers of the hair more clearly, it is helpful to after a perm? envision a drinking straw picked up at any fast food restaurant. The first thing a stylist can do to keep the hair from lightening When the straw is picked up, it is covered with a paper wrapper. during a perm is to properly rinse the solution, making sure The paper’s function is simply protection – this is the cuticle. it is completely removed from the hair. Another strategy is The straw is the main part of the package. It is where all the to use haircolor to help keep the hair looking its best. Some functionality resides and where the strength resides. This is the manufacturers will allow the stylist to add a small amount of cortex. If the straw was opened and a straightened paper clip fell a semi-permanent or demi-permanent color to the neutralizer. out of the middle of the straw, one would have to question why This color is deposited into the cortex and then the cuticle is it was in the straw. No one would know. The paper clip would immediately closed by the neutralizer, trapping the color inside, have no known function. This is the medulla. alleviating some of the color fading from the perm. Why does a perm curl the hair? Consultation There are three types of bonds that hold the hair together – the salt The consultation is the most important part of the perming bond, the hydrogen bond, and the disulfide bond. The salt bonds process. What are clients’ expectations? Do they want tight curls, medium curls, or waves? Are they expecting the perm to be the

INFORMED Page 13 finished style, or do they want the curls to support the finished Sizes of rods style? Will they be setting their hair on rollers or curling their The amount of curl is determined hair with a curling iron? The stylist should ask for any photos by the size of rod used. The order of they have brought with them, or have a style book handy for concave and straight rod sizes from them to look at. One challenge for stylists? Many clients will smallest to largest is: red, yellow, bring in photos of curling iron sets and request a perm that blue, pink, grey, white, lavender, “looks just like that.” In very rare instances this is possible. The peach, orange, green, black maroon, brown. client must have wavy hair to start with and then large rods can Red rods are used on extremely short hair (two inches or less) be put in. This type of hair will have a lot of bounce and a peach and create very tight curls. Yellow rods are slightly larger and or orange rod curl will look like a peach or orange curl when the should be used on hair that is about 2½ inches long. Blue rods hair dries. In most cases, those with wavy hair generally aren’t can be used on slightly longer hair for tight curls. Blue and pink looking for curly hair, so again this is a rare occurrence. A client rods are commonly used for an older clientele who desires a tight whose hair will hold a large bouncy curl after a perm will be the curl that will last for at least three months. This clientele will best advertisement a stylist could have. generally wear the curls “as is” or will set the hair in rollers. Gray Draping and preparation of the hair rods give a slightly looser curl that is more suitable for those with A perm can be a very uncomfortable experience for the client longer hair (three to five inches in length). This clientele likes a unless proper draping occurs. The stylist does not want the more natural curly look to the hair. White rods are for medium client leaving with wet clothing because of improper draping, or sized curls. These create a beautiful middle-of-the-road type curl. even worse, ruined clothing from the perm solution saturating Purple perm rods create a nice, looser curl that is more suitable the client’s clothing. It is important that a clean, dry towel be for a younger clientele who desires curl. Peach and orange rods under the cape at all times. After the shampoo, the towel should will create body and some wave in clients with normal elasticity, be checked. After application of the waving lotion and then the or if a client already has some wave in the hair, will create neutralizer, the towel should be checked. If the towel is damp, beautiful, large bouncy curls. Rods larger than peach and orange it should be removed by lifting the cape and sliding the damp will simply create wave and some volume to the hair, which is towel out, and then replacing it with a dry towel secured around perfect for the beach wave look that is popular right now. the neck. A dry towel should always be secured on the outside Is hair length a factor? of the cape, so it must be replaced every time it gets damp with The combination between the hair length and the perm rod is water or solution. what determines the amount of curl the client will get. If using Before applying the waving lotion, a barrier cream and cotton a pink perm rod with 2-inch hair, a nice tight curl will result. If must be applied around the entire hairline. When the cotton using a pink perm rod with 6-inch hair, overly curly, frizzy hair becomes saturated, it must be replaced. If not, irritation or an is likely to result. On the other hand, using a lavender perm rod allergic reaction can occur. on 3-inch hair will result in a very loose curl, perhaps even a To properly prepare the hair for perming, it is important that the body wave. Using the same perm rod on 6-inch hair will result in stylist shampoo the hair with a clarifying shampoo. Do not allow a nice, looser curl. the client to insist she has already shampooed her hair that day. Many times clients do not use the proper shampoo, and they apply Types of rods – historically speaking conditioner to the hair that is not properly rinsed out. After using Traditionally, stylists have used concave and straight rods for the the clarifying shampoo, do not apply a traditional conditioner. majority of their perming. However, if you can wrap hair around Leave-in conditioners are made that can be left in the hair and it, you can perm around it. The only exception would be metal. will not affect the results of the perm. They are a better choice Metal cannot be used with perms because it will react with the than a detangler or conditioner. The use of the wrong conditioner chemicals being used. can result in buildup remaining on the outside of the hair strand, Concave rods have a smaller diameter in the middle of the rod, making it more difficult for the waving lotion to penetrate. so the ends of the hair, which are wrapped first, have a tighter

Amount of curl Hair curls with Hair is very difficult Hair is easy to curl Hair is hard to curl patron requests medium difficulty to curl

Body wave Hair should wrap Hair should wrap Alternate rods that hair wraps Not recommended. (large curl) around rod 2½ times. around rod 3+ times. around 2½ times and 3+ times.

Hair should wrap Hair should wrap Alternate rods that hair wraps Medium curl Not recommended. around rod 3½ times. around rod 4+ times. around 3½ times and 4+ times.

Hair should wrap Hair should wrap Hair should wrap around rod Hair should wrap around Firm curl around rod 4½ times. around rod 4½ times. 5 times. rod 5½ times.

Hair should wrap Hair should wrap Hair should wrap around rod Hair should wrap around Tight curl around rod 5 times. around rod 5 times. 5½ times. rod 6 times.

Page 14 INFORMED curl than the rest of the hair. Straight rods are the same diameter To create a spiral perm, the long stick-type rods are much easier throughout the rod, so the curl is the same from top to bottom. to use. (Figure 5, see inside back cover) The hair is parted in Concave and straight rods can be used to wrap the hair in the sections that are about three inches in length. The hair is gathered traditional croquinole wrap or in a spiral-type wrap. together between the thumb and index finger and wrapped from Other rod types include bendable foam rods, long loop-type scalp to ends, keeping the hand close to the rod, allowing the hair rods, crimping rods, spiral rods, long stick-type rods, bendable to corkscrew in your hand so that each revolution looks like a mesh rods, u-shaped rods and foam blocks. Many of these rods “Cheerio.” At the end of the rod, the hair is secured with an end were used in the ’90s to create texture in the hair, but may be wrap and a rubber band. Approximately 20 rods are used for the seeing a comeback with the reemergence of waves in the hair for entire head, even on waist-length hair. These curlers are available the new decade. Many more new texture rods will be emerging today under the brand name Revolution rods. in the next few years, but a look back at some older curlers may The bendable mesh rods were a very innovative tool. (Figure 6, be helpful to understand all the possibilities that exist in texture. see inside back cover) They consisted of a long piece of non- The bendable foam rods are very easy to use and make perming metal mesh that is about two inches wide. At each side was a a snap. (Figure 1, see inside back cover) The hair is placed in an bendable wire. The hair was sandwiched between the mesh end paper and wrapped around the rod in a croquinole or spiral and then the wire could bent into any shape desired. It could be pattern, and then the ends of the rod are simply bent inwards to wrapped around a circular object and formed into a large spiral secure. This eliminates the need to secure a rubber band. These curl, or it could be zigzagged back and forth into a crimping rods are still available today. pattern. The only limit is one’s imagination. These curlers do not seem to be available today. The long loop-type rods are generally made out of a rubberlike material and have a female end and a male end. (Figure 2, see The oval-shaped rod (Figure 7, see inside back cover) was a inside back cover) These rods are suitable for long hair spiral great tool for creating a different wave pattern than a traditional wraps. The hair is secured around one end with an end wrap. rod. It made a loose, natural looking wave. These curlers do not The hair is then wrapped up the rod toward the other end until seem to be available today. the scalp is reached. The ends of the rod are bent down towards Curlers can be used to perm the hair, using picks to secure them the floor, and the two ends are fastened together to secure. These to the head or they can be used to do a transformation perm. A rods are still available today. transformation perm is good for hair shorter than seven inches. Crimping rods are a definite ’80s and ’90s look, but crimping This process starts by analyzing the hair’s ability to bend. This seems to crop up over and over throughout the years, so a review is accomplished by grasping a small section of hair at the scalp of these rods will be helpful. (Figure 3, see inside back cover) and then about two inches further up the strand. Relax the hair The rods used for this look were about eight inches long and between the fingers by pushing them toward each other. The hair about two inches wide. They were plastic and were molded in an will create a loop. Decide what rod size the loop corresponds to. undulating pattern. The hair was placed in between two of these That is the rod the hair should be wrapped on and processed. undulating plates that fit together, and starting at the scalp the After rinsing and blotting the hair, the rods are gently removed, hair was squeezed in between the plates. They were held together one section at a time. At this point the hair is very rough and with rubber bands. This process wasn’t horrible, but there was no tangles very easily because the cuticle is still raised. This is way to get the head into the sink to rinse the perm with these rigid where a leave-in conditioner that will not affect the finished plates sticking out eight inches all over the head. These curlers do results of the perm will come in very handy. It will be possible to not seem to be available today. A variation (seen to the right) was comb through the hair. The stylist will then choose a roller size a rounded crimp tool. The tool was inserted at the scalp and then that will produce a desirable size curl. The curlers are placed in additional rods were hooked together until the ends were reached. a bricklay pattern, wrapped in the direction of the desired final Again, this rod was very difficult to rinse. Both of these rods were style and secured with picks. The neutralizer is then applied better suited to a wet set. to the curlers and processed. A transformation perm gives the Spiral perms can be achieved using a variety of methods, but strength of the perm curl and the softness of the curler curl. It a special spiral rod was produced in the ’90s specifically for gives the best of both worlds. this purpose. (Figure 4, see inside back cover) The rods were Stack rods were a tool used in the ’70s and ’80s. (Figure 8, see approximately six inches long with a hook at the top end, and inside back cover) The idea behind stack rods was to create curl ridges spiraling down from top to bottom. There were different while leaving the root area of the hair straight so that the curls lay sizes, each which came molded in two different directions, close to the head. The rods have grooves cut into the ends that one whose ridges ran clockwise, and one whose ridges ran interlock with the next rod, holding them in the hair. After the first counterclockwise. The idea was to take a section of hair, hook two rods are placed at the nape, each rod above them is placed the rod over the hair close to the scalp and then direct the hair a little farther out from the head than the rod before it. This will in between the ridges to the bottom of the hair. An end wrap create curls on the ends and a straight root area. If the rods are was placed over the ends and a clip was placed over that. The then gradually worked back to the head, on the outside of the hair difficulty was getting the hair to follow the grooves the whole it will look like everything is permed but underneath there will be way to the bottom, and then to make sure you picked up a clip straight bases that will reduce the volume of the finished perm. that corresponded to the same direction as the rod – clockwise or The newest tool on the market today is the foam block. This tool counterclockwise. These rods are still available on sites such as has been developed to create beach waves, the style popularized eBay or Amazon. by Jessica Alba, Jennifer Aniston and other celebrities. The

INFORMED Page 15 foam block is approximately three inches wide, two inches long, On-base, half-off base or off-base? and one inch thick. The one inch thickness is partially split in When wrapping a perm, a decision has to be made as to what two, creating an exaggerated bookend end paper effect, where angle the rod is held to the head shape. If the rod is held 45 the hair is placed between the two halves of the foam. The hair degrees beyond perpendicular, an on-base wrap will result. This is then wrapped around the block, which compresses into a is not recommended because of the strain placed on the hair in rounder shape and then is secured by placing a pick through a this wrap. It is possible to break the hair off close to the scalp centrally located hole in the block, holding it to the head shape. because the hair will swell when the solution is applied and this This creates a very open wave pattern that can be scrunched into angle puts a lot of stress on the hair. shape, or enhanced with a curling iron. If the hair is held perpendicular to the head, a half-off base wrap Parting patterns will result. This wrap is good for clients who desire a tight wrap The traditional parting pattern is the nine-section parting. In where the curl stands up off the head. This is appropriate for this parting the hair is sectioned from front to back to the width a more traditional result. If the hair is held 45 degrees under of a rod, centered from the forehead to the nape. Panels are perpendicular, an off-base wrap will result. This wrap is good for then sectioned out on the sides to the width of the rod, and clients who desire a natural look to their perm. There will not be then the back of the head is sectioned horizontally right at the that “new perm” look, because the hair already looks like it has occipital bone. To finish, the top of the head is sectioned across, grown out for about two weeks. connecting the side partings into one continuous line. This Alkaline wave, acid wave, acid-balanced wave, creates the ninth section. exothermic wave, thio-free wave, ammonia-free If the head structure seems too large for this parting, a double wave or low pH wave? halo parting can be helpful. In this parting, a perm rod is used The hair must be analyzed before giving a perm to determine to measure a panel at the front hairline that stretches from ear the best type of perm for that client’s hair. An alkaline perm will to ear. Right behind this parting is another panel that starts right be the best choice if the client has virgin hair or desires a tight behind the ear on one side, wraps up to the top of the head, and curl. Also, if the client has coarse, resistant hair or hard-to-hold then down to right behind the ear on the other side. What is left hair, an alkaline perm will be the perm of choice. This perm type is a panel that is the size of the perm rod that starts at the crown contains ammonium thioglycolate, also known as thio (or ATG), and ends at the nape in the center of the head. The head is then and is strong enough that it will work on its own without heat. parted horizontally at the occipital bone across the back three It starts working the second it hits the hair. This can be helpful sections. when wrapping a short, resistant piece of hair at the nape of the A nice alternative to these parting patterns, especially for neck that keeps trying to spring off the rod. When all rods are younger clients, is the bricklay wrap. In this wrap the hair is wrapped and the stylist is ready to apply the waving lotion, these parted from one ear, straight up over the top of the head, and rods can be saturated with the perm solution and then wrapped. down to the other ear. This gives you a front section and a The solution will soften the hair and make it easier to roll around rear section. Starting at the top of the back section, one rod is the rod. The solution can then be immediately applied to the rest wrapped in the center of the head. The next row is wrapped in of the hair. An alkaline perm has a pH of 9 - 9.6, so it is about a bricklay fashion. Two rods are placed in the hair, each half 10,000 times more alkaline than the natural state of the hair. One centered under the first row. It is important to part the hair for disadvantage is the strong ammonia odor associated with this these two rods in an upward diagonal parting. This ensures type of perm. that the rods will be long enough to reach the parting, and they If the client has tinted or highlighted hair or porous, damaged will begin to follow the curve of the head, rather than trying to hair, a true acid wave will be the best choice. Also, acid waves create straight rows on a round head shape. The third row starts are the best choice for those clients who desire a soft, natural with one rod in the middle, centered under the original rod, half looking wave. This wave has a pH of only 4.5 - 7, which means centered under the second row. Full-size or half-size rods are that it is the same pH as hair if 4.5, or only 100 times more then used to complete the row to the side parting. This bricklay alkaline than hair if a pH of 7. Because of the mild pH, the perm continues until the nape is reached. cannot work on its own. It requires a heat source for it to work. The client is then turned around with the stylist standing in front This can come in the form of a hooded dryer, heat cap, steamer so that all rods in the front half of the head are wrapped forward. or heat lamp. The perm solution is applied to the hair and a cap The original first rod is still there, so the first row going forward is placed over the hair to hold the heat in while processing. The will have two rods half centered to the original rod. The rods main ingredient is glycerol monothioglycolate (or GMTG). This are then placed in a bricklay pattern until the front hairline is type of perm processes more slowly but is much gentler to the reached. When the perm is done, rather than seeing neat little hair than an alkaline perm. rows of curls with lines visible between each section, a very An acid-balance wave is now available to overcome some of the casual relaxed perm is the result. problems associated with a true acid wave. The pH is 7.8 - 8.2, When wrapping spiral perms with straight or concave rods, the which means the perm will process more quickly and easily. It wrap begins at the nape of the neck and proceeds to the top of is not truly acid, (a pH of 0 - 6.9), but it is not as alkaline as a the head. The hair is parted in narrow sections horizontally up thio perm with a pH of 9 - 9.6. With a pH of 7.8 - 8.2, it is about the head shape, one row at a time. Each row is then subdivided 1,000 times more alkaline than the natural pH of 4.5 - 5.5. This into sections appropriate to the size of the rod being used. is a good middle ground between alkaline and true acid waves. These perms are still good for damaged and porous hair, but the

Page 16 INFORMED perm will process more quickly and without the need for heat. the rods are wrapped should be alternated from row to row. If The result will be soft curls. right-handed, the first row will go to the right. To do this, (still An exothermic wave is great for those clients who need a holding the rubber band in the right hand) the right elbow must stronger perm for coarser, more resistant hair or who desire a be pointed toward the ceiling and the left elbow towards the floor. tighter curl because the pH is 9.0 - 9.6. The perm uses a waving The wrap will start on the end of the rod away from the rubber solution (usually thio), but the difference is that right before band. Make two turns around that end of the rod to secure the rod the solution is placed on the hair, an activator is added (usually and then spiral the hair up to the rubber band, getting to that end of hydrogen peroxide). When the two solutions are mixed, a the rod just as the top of the hair strand is reached. Secure the rod. chemical reaction takes place, which creates heat. The heat, Wrap it so it looks like a candy cane or barber pole. which speeds up the perming process, comes from within, rather Finish the entire row in this manner. To wrap the next row in an than an outside heat source. alternating manner, if right-handed, the rod is still held with the A thio-free wave substitutes cysteamine or mercaptamine for the rubber band in the right hand. However, to go to the left, the left ammonium thioglycolate. These perms are marketed as being less elbow must come up and point toward the ceiling, and the right damaging to the hair, but cysteamine and mercaptamine are still elbow must point toward the floor. The wrap is started at the thio compounds, and in high concentrations can still damage the rubber band end. Make two turns around that end of the rod to hair. These perms process at room temperature and are good for secure the rod and then spiral the hair up to the other end, getting normal to porous hair, giving it a medium curl. The pH of thio- to that end of the rod just as the top of the hair strand is reached. free waves are still 7.0 - 9.6, so thio-free does not mean low pH. Secure the rod. An ammonium-free wave uses an alkanolamine such as Continue alternating the direction of the rows until the wrap is aminomethylpropanol or monoethanolamine rather than complete. If left-handed, when going to the right, the wrap will ammonium in its formulation. An advantage is that the start at the rubber band end. When going to the left, the wrap will alkanolamine doesn’t evaporate as quickly as ammonium, and start at the opposite end. All other directions remain the same. therefore, the odor is reduced. These perms process at room This method will use approximately double to triple the amount temperature and are suitable for normal to porous hair. These of rods of a traditional croquinole wrap, so charge accordingly. perms do not have as strong an odor as traditional perms, but can An alternative to the spiral wrap with concave rods is the be just as damaging because their pH ranges from 7.0 - 9.6. The piggyback wrap. In this wrap the hair is parted in a traditional result is a medium curl. nine-section parting. When wrapping the hair, the end wrap is Low-pH waves have a pH of 6.5 - 7.0, and they substitute placed half way down the hair strand. The hair is wrapped to the sulfates, sulfites and bisulfites for the ammonium thioglycolate scalp. The “tail” that is left over is brought around the rod to the in their formula. This perm is the most gentle of all perms, but stylist’s dominant side each time a revolution is made. When the is generally not used in the salon because it is also the weakest rod is up to the head and secured, the tail should be hanging over perm. Their most common use is as a body wave, and because of the rod on the styler’s dominant side. their formulation need an outside heat source to process. These At this point, the same size rod can be used for the ends or one perms are good for fine or damaged hair. size smaller if more curl is desired towards the ends of the hair. The rod is place on top of the end wrap, and the rod is wrapped Long hair wrapping up and away from the stylist until the head is reached. The top When perming long hair, the stylist has several choices, rod is secured by placing a pick under the rubber bands of both depending on the results desired. Traditional concave rods can rods. This will hold the top rod in place rather than partially be used to wrap a spiral perm. The results are beautiful, but the unwinding and hanging over the bottom rod. This technique is time involved is substantial. The hair is parted one row at a time, continued until all hair is wrapped. starting at the nape. The size of the parting should be equal to Long loop rods can be used to wrap a spiral perm in a much the diameter of the rod, holding the end of the rod to the head shorter period of time than either of the two methods already to measure. Each rod’s parting should be equal to the diameter covered. In this method, the wrap is started at the nape. A ½-inch of the rod, holding the end of the rod to the head to measure. In horizontal parting is made and the hair is divided into thirds. The other words, if using a peach rod to wrap, the diameter of the hair is combed down at a 45-degree angle and ribboned with the peach rod is approximately ½-inch, so the section to be wrapped thumb and comb. Make sure the hair is wet to reduce the need should be ½-inch by ½-inch. for additional end wraps for stray hairs. The end wrap is placed The hair should be thoroughly wet, which will help stray hairs stay vertically on the hair to cover more area. On the first row, the with the section to be wrapped and reduce the need for multiple hair is placed on the right side of the rod, wrapped a couple of end wraps. The hair is combed out at a 45-degree angle, and the times around the rod to secure the end wrap and then wrapped in section should be ribboned by placing the comb and thumb at the a spiral fashion towards the other end of the rod. When the scalp top of the section and pinching the hair between them, bringing is reached, the two ends of the loop rod are brought together and the comb and thumb out to the ends of the hair (this technique fastened. The rod then hangs down from the head in a loop. The is similar to creating ribbon curls at Christmas when wrapping other two rods in that row are wrapped in the same fashion. presents, using one blade of the scissors and the thumb). The next row is wrapped in the opposite direction. Place the hair The end wrap is folded vertically and placed so all ends are in ends on the left side of the rod. Wrap a couple of times around between the folds. The rod is placed in the hand towards the right. the rod to secure the end wrap and then wrap in spiral fashion If left-handed, the rubber band should be facing left. The direction towards the other end of the rod. Secure as before. Alternate

INFORMED Page 17 rows, using three rods in each row until the top of the ears are be helpful for a client with thick, coarse hair. One disadvantage reached. would be that the stylist needs to take great care when applying At this point, when parting a row, the part will go from the front the waving lotion. It would not be good to get the hair under the hairline to the front hairline on the opposite side. Three rods will rubber band soaked with perm solution. Breakage would occur, still be used on the back of the head, plus one rod on each side, and an indentation would be permed into the hair. for a total of five rods in each row. Continue alternating the rods Partial perms in each row until the top of the head is reached. At this point, There are two different types of partial perms that can be given. because the head narrows, the rows can be wrapped with three The first type deals with clients who have short hair. This type of rods and then two rods, one on each side of the center part. One client wears her hair curly, but likes the nape (and possibly the disadvantage to this type of rod is that the size of the rods are ear area) cut very short. This shortness prevents perming. The limited. They cannot be very large or it is impossible to get them challenge is to blend the wrapped and unwrapped areas together to bend into a loop. into a cohesive whole. A straight spiral rod is another option. It is considered a The best method for this type of partial perm is to candlestick the traditional wrap because when the spiral wrap was invented in rods. First, the top of the head is parted from the front hairline to the early 1900s, the hair was wrapped from the scalp to the ends. the crown. The parting is the width of the perm rod. The hair is This is how these rods are used. This is a fast wrap as only 20 wrapped forward, backwards or a combination of the two. rods are used for the entire head. This is a great wrap for very long hair and the finished look is different than with traditional Next, starting at the front hairline, on the side, a section of hair wraps. The curls look more like “Taylor Swift” curls than is parted right underneath the top section, as long as the rod. The traditional permed curls. rod is wrapped vertically towards the back. The next rod is placed right behind it in the same fashion. Picks placed under the rubber The hair is parted at the top of the ears, separating the nape bands are used as the rods are wrapped to hold the rods in place. area from the rest of the head. The nape area is divided in half This wrapping is continued until the edge of the crown is reached. horizontally, and then each half is divided in half horizontally, creating four long, narrow rectangles. Starting at the top of the At this point, the sections should be slightly pie-shaped, with nape section the first rod is wrapped. The hair is grasped in the the top sectioned more narrowly, and the bottom a little wider. left hand between the knuckles of the index finger and the tip of This will allow the rods to travel around the circumference of the the thumb, with the top of the hand facing up. The smaller end head, remaining in a vertical fashion. The hair is wrapped this of the rod is held with the right hand close to the scalp. The left way to the middle back. The other side is wrapped the same way, hand wraps the hair around the rod, wrapping up and toward the starting at the front hairline and wrapping to the middle back. head, holding the hair very closely to the rod, allowing the hair The hair under the wrapped rods must be protected from the to twist around the rod in a coil until the ends are reached. perm solution. If a piece of hair is bent due to the cotton or towel To secure the ends, an end wrap is wrapped over the hair and and solution runs on to it, it will perm the hair in that shape. held in place until a rubber band can be attached to the top, To protect the hair, a three-step process is helpful. First, the stylist stretched down the rod and twisted around the end wrap to hold should apply a conditioner to the hair, covering it thoroughly. in place and secured. To keep the rod from partially unwinding, a Then cotton should be wrapped under the wrapped rods, pick is inserted under the rubber band and then under the rod. encircling the head two to three times. Finally, an assistant should After all four rods in the nape area are wrapped, the top portion hold a towel over the unwrapped hair, covering it completely of the hair is divided into four sections. Each of the four sections while the stylist applies the solution. The finished look will is subdivided into four pie-shaped subsections. The sections are seamlessly transition between the curly hair and the straight hair. wrapped toward the front on each side with the hair being drawn The second type of partial perm involves long layered hair. A up to the top of the head and then wrapped. client who has six-inch layers on the top down to a hair length A ponytail perm is yet another option. The hair is parted straight of 18 inches will not need a perm on her entire head every time down the middle from the front hairline to the nape. It is again you give her a perm. The hair that is six inches long will need parted from the back of the ear, straight up over the top of the another perm in three to six months depending on the client’s head to the back of the other ear. The back of the head is then elasticity. The hair that is 18 inches long should not be repermed parted horizontally, dividing the back into two equal sections. for at least a year. On the first visit, the client’s entire head will Each section is then divided in half horizontally resulting in be permed. At the next perm visit, the client’s hair should first be eight rectangles. Each rectangle is combed into a small ponytail cut so that it is obvious where there is still perm and where it has and secured with a rubber band. In the front sections, each side is grown out. simply divided in half horizontally, combed into a small ponytail The hair should be parted and the hair that will not be getting and secured with a rubber band. This will give you 12 sections. repermed should be clipped up. If the client had lavender perm Divide each ponytail into approximately five to seven pieces rods on the top at the original appointment, then lavender perm and wrap in a spiral fashion, from ends to scalp. A coil of cotton rods should be wrapped up there again, with one exception. At should be wrapped under the rods and over the rubber band, the bottom of each section, a larger rod, and then a rod two sizes protecting the hair going into the rubber band from the perm larger should be wrapped to help the new perm blend into the solution. old. In our example that would be a peach and then an orange An advantage to this perm is that the finished perm will lay rod. The old perm will have relaxed so simply using lavender on close to the head, since the scalp area isn’t permed. This would the entire top will make the top look too curly compared to the

Page 18 INFORMED rest of the head. In addition, it may be necessary to wrap one or Why use picks? Does direction matter? two rods in a candlestick fashion at the front hairline so that the There is some debate over the correct direction to wrap the curl is seen from scalp to ends. top of the hair. It is the area of the head most likely to show In this type of partial perm, it is even more important to protect breakage after a perm. Some experts state that the hair should the unwrapped hair than in the previous example. If perm be wrapped back away from the face, and some state that the solution runs down onto the unwrapped hair, it could potentially hair should be wrapped forward toward the face. Hair on the top straighten the hair. All of the same steps must be taken to protect of the head tends to grow toward the face, so it seems like the the hair as above, but the conditioner that is applied to the hair common sense approach would be to wrap the hair the same way should be a conditioner for permed hair, so it doesn’t temporarily to reduce stress on the hair. Traditionally, cosmetology textbooks relax the curl. At the end, the long hair will still be curly and in instruct stylists to wrap the top back except for the last three rods beautiful shape. With the addition of new curls on the top, it will at the face, which are wrapped forward. look like a brand new perm. What if the client requests that the rods be wrapped back away from the face or the stylist determines that wrapping away from Alternative wraps the face is the best option? To keep from breaking the hair off, it A weave wrap can give a very casual, tousled feel to the hair. is necessary to place picks under the rubber bands to keep them The head is sectioned for a basic nine-section wrap. The partings off the hair. This will greatly reduce the possibility of breakage. for the rods should be a little larger than usual. When the parting is picked up, the section is weaved similar to weaving the hair Rinsing and blotting for a foil. The top of the weave is wrapped in one size of rod, The importance of the rinsing and blotting stages cannot be such as a white rod, and the bottom in another size rod, such overemphasized. When rinsing a perm, the minimum amount as lavender. This is repeated for every parting. The result looks of time should be five minutes. If the hair is longer, thicker or younger and more casual than a traditional wrap. coarser, the time should be extended to as much as 10 minutes. A railroad wrap is a great solution for wrapping long hair. The This allows time for the water to rinse all of the chemicals from hair is sectioned in nine-sections, and the wrap begins like a the hair. If the time is not sufficient, or an area of the head is not piggyback wrap. However, after three rods are wrapped with rinsed thoroughly enough, such as the nape, the chemicals will their tails hanging out, all three ends are then picked up and be trapped in the hair when the neutralizer is put on the hair. wrapped together in one rod in a candlestick fashion. This is This will result in perm odor being present when the perm is almost the same as a piggyback wrap but faster, and the rods are completed or early relaxation of the perm. held under control better than in the piggyback wrap. Blotting is just as crucial. If too much water is left in the hair In the alternating wrap (one up, one down), the hair is sectioned after blotting, it will “fill up” the structure of the hair, giving the in a nine-section parting, and the partings are picked up to wrap neutralizer nowhere to go. The neutralizer will simply run off the as usual. However, the first rod is wrapped traditionally toward hair, failing to properly reattach the disulfide bonds. If the hair the floor and the next rod is wrapped toward the ceiling. The is too dry when applying the neutralizer, the neutralizer also will upward facing rods are held in place by picks placed through simply run off, rather than being absorbed. both rubber bands. This is repeated throughout the head. This Think of a sponge. It is impossible to absorb spilled liquid with will also give a more tousled feel to the finished perm. a sponge if the sponge is already saturated with water; you will simply smear the spill around. It is also impossible to pick up a What’s a body wave/beach perm? spill with a dry sponge. The ideal condition of the sponge should A body wave is nothing more than a perm wrapped on larger be damp for maximum absorption. This is exactly the same for rods. The strength of the perm solution will contribute to the hair when readying it for the neutralizer. overall effect, but the main determining factor is the rod size. The smallest rod suitable for a body wave would be lavender, What if I can’t get the client into the sink to rinse especially if used on shorter hair. Peach, orange, green, maroon properly? and black are also possibilities. Some clients are “vertically challenged,” and it is very difficult When doing a body wave on a client, a good consultation and to get all of their perm rods in the sink, especially if they are good communication are a must. During the consultation, it is older and have some osteoporosis and curvature of the spine. very important to understand clients’ expectations for the body It is very difficult to rinse their perm properly in the nape area wave. Is this something they are going to use to support their without drenching them and creating a flood on the floor. style when using hot rollers or a curling iron, or do they want to There are two options if the client is agreeable. Have the client scrunch and go? kneel on the shampoo chair and lean over into the sink. Give her Clients cannot expect to get a slight body wave on black rods a towel to cover her face and explain that the farther she drops and have it last like a perm done on traditional grey rods. They the top of her head into the sink, the more the water will run must understand that it will be necessary to have the body wave off there instead of face. If the client cannot kneel in the chair, done perhaps every three months. another option is to have the client stand beside the sink, and A variation on a body wave is a beach perm, which uses a very drop her head into the sink, covering the face with a towel. gentle perm solution with large perm tools to achieve a very Neutralization relaxed wavy result. Before applying the neutralizer, there are some steps the stylist can take to ensure an even better perm result. After blotting the

INFORMED Page 19 hair with a towel, the stylist can get absorbent paper towels and Perms – Current Styles and Methods blot the hair again to ensure that the hair is damp, not wet. If paper towels are not available, the stylist can place the client Self-Assessment under a pre-heated dryer for three to five minutes, depending Select the best answer for each question and mark your answers on the thickness and texture of the hair, to remove the excess on the Self-Assessment Answer Sheet on page 89 or complete moisture. Remember, however, that the hair cannot become too your test online at www.nccosmo.cme.edu. dry or it will not absorb the neutralizer. Apply the neutralizer for five minutes, and then either rinse 6. A perm that has a pH of 7.8 - 8.2 and will process the hair and then remove the rods or remove the rods and then without the need for heat is known as: rinse, depending on the manufacturer’s directions. If the rods are a. Thio-free wave. removed before rinsing, massage the neutralizer into the hair, b. Acid-balance wave. using a shampooing motion, for about one minute. Then rinse for c. True acid wave. approximately two minutes. d. Alkaline wave. Perm cards 7. Oxidation occurs during: One thing that a stylist can do to make his or her life easier is to be diligent with perm cards. It is important to analyze the hair a. Neutralization. and put all information on the card that will be helpful in the b. Perming. future to ensure continued success. Any decisions that are made c. Wrapping. concerning the perm should be noted on the card. Rod sizes in d. Blotting. every part of the head and wrapping patterns must be recorded, along with diagrams showing what was done. There is nothing 8. The bond that is broken by changes in pH is: more discouraging than doing a great perm, having the client a. Disulfide. come back in and ask for the exact same thing, and be missing b. Peptide. information. If the client asks for a slightly tighter wave or c. Salt. slightly looser wave the next time, the card will give the stylist d. Hydrogen. the starting point to then make the adjustments. 9. If a client desires a body wave, the hair should wrap Use your knowledge and experience to make an around the rod: educated guess a. 4½ - 5½ times. When stylists are new to doing permanent waves, they are often b. 2½ - 3½ times. hesitant as to what perm, what rod size and what wrapping c. 5 - 6 times. pattern to use. Following are some guidelines to follow when d. 3½ - 4 times. making those decisions: When in doubt between two rod sizes, use the larger rod. It is far 10. When doing a partial perm on long hair, it is important better to have a client’s perm relax within the first week than to to: have an overly curly mess. It is easier on the stylist’s pocketbook a. Wrap the hair vertically. and reputation to have to re-do a perm because it was just too b. Place picks under the rubber bands of the perm rods. loose, than to have a client walking around with an overly curly, c. Cut the hair after the perm. frizzy hairdo, telling everyone who did it. d. Wrap a larger size rod next to the unwrapped hair. The best procedure is to conduct a consultation, listening to everything clients say. The stylist should then tell clients what he or she is going to do, letting the client know that the decision is based on knowledge and education. However, if a client is new let them know it is an educated guess. Explain that if the educated guess is incorrect, the worst that will happen is that the perm will be too loose and it will need to be redone, at no expense to the client. Assure the client that it will not be too curly and need to be cut off or chemically relaxed. If a client is the type who only gives a stylist one chance to get it right and then moves on, it is important for the stylist to let the person know she will get it right, but some minor tweaking of the perm may be necessary at a subsequent visit. Perm clients will be very loyal to their stylists if they know they can trust them to not give them a frizzy perm. Clients are also better able to relax knowing the stylist will reperm if the hair is not sufficiently curly. It is far better for a stylist to give up two hours of time than to have a negative advertisement walking around for the next three to six months.

Page 20 INFORMED Chapter 3 Wigs and Hairpieces (2 CE Hours)

Learning objectives addition, consumers didn’t benefit from the knowledge of `` Discuss types of clients who want or need a wig. professional hairdressers because wigs were produced and `` Identify types of hairpieces. marketed directly to consumers, bypassing the hairdressers. Then `` Discuss how hair loss occurs. fashions changed and wigs went out of style. `` Discuss different types of wig composition and construction. Now, hairdressers are the ones who are looked to for their `` Identify factors in selecting the best wig style for a client. expertise in wigs and other hair enhancements. It is still possible `` Discuss caring for wigs. for clients to purchase wigs on their own, but these are not the hair additions that are the most popular. Hair extensions are the History of wigs hair enhancement of choice and are difficult for all but the most The history of wigs extends back approximately 5,000 years. experienced hairdresser. Wigs were used extensively in ancient Egypt, as far back as Types of hairpieces 3,000-2,500 b.c. The Egyptians would cut their hair very short or shave their heads for cleanliness and comfort. The poor wore A wig covers the entire head shape. caps to protect their heads from the sun, while the upper class Hairpieces sit on top of the client’s hair and are attached by could afford wigs. The wigs were made out of human hair, temporary methods. They are designed for coverage in specific sheep’s wool or palm-leaf fiber mounted on porous fabric. areas or to create particular effects. Usually, they are not worn Wigs were used in ancient Greece for personal use and for the to bed at night. Some hairpieces are designed to add length, and theater. Different colors of wigs designated different types of some add volume. The hairpiece may be attached to a client’s characters. In Rome, wigs for the affluent were made out of ponytail or bun or attached to the hair with combs or clips. blond or red hair taken from captives. A wiglet consists of hair six inches or less in length attached to In 1630 in France, Louis XIII began wearing a wig to hide his the top or crown of the head. It adds fullness and height to the baldness, and so wigs became fashionable. Their popularity client’s hair. increased during the reign of Louis XIV. He wore wigs to hide A fall hairpiece covers the crown, occipital and nape area. It is his baldness and to make himself appear taller. A look at wig generally between 12-24 inches long and creates the look of long fashions at that time show elaborate, tall wigs on both men and full hair. women. In the late 1700s, advances in wig making occurred due to their continued popularity. Ventilating was invented. This A switch hairpiece consists of one to three swatches of hair process, which is still used in hand-tied wigs, involves tying worn as a braid or ponytail. hairs to a net foundation. Springs were then sewn into the wigs A chignon hairpiece is a long swatch of hair preformed into a to help them stay more securely on the head. By the 1800s, the bun shape to be worn at the crown or nape of the neck. French were inventing flesh colored foundations, new knotting An integration hairpiece has openings in the base through techniques, and silk net foundations. which the client’s own hair is pulled. These hairpieces can add Wigs were very popular in England at one time. However, their volume or length and are good for clients with thinning hair. popularity declined during the reign of George III. The exception This type of hairpiece is similar to a wig but is not suitable for to this decline was for individuals who wore them as symbols of clients who are bald or have significant loss of hair. The scalp their professions, such as judges, doctors and the clergy. will be visible between the hair attached to the open weave cap. Who wants or needs a wig or hair enhancement? A bandeau hairpiece is attached to a headband and is worn over the natural hair to add volume. Those who wish to change their look may choose wigs for their ease. Maybe a client has always wanted long hair, but her hair A cascade hairpiece is four to eight inches in length and is worn won’t grow long. On the other hand, maybe a client would like a in the crown area. It is bigger than a wiglet but smaller than a fall. sassy short style once in a while, but doesn’t want to cut her hair A postiche is made from angora and yak hair and is commonly permanently. What about those “bad hair days”? Putting on a wig used in competitions for special effects. will give the client instant style. Those going through chemotherapy may experience hair loss and need hair additions. Others may have How does hair loss occur? medical conditions that result in hair loss, such as alopecia. Those The hair growth cycle has three phases, anagen, catagen and with fine hair may need wigs or hair additions to make their hair telogen. Anagen is the active growing stage, which normally lasts fuller. Women going through menopause also experience thinning from three to five years. If hair grows one-half inch per month, hair. The addition of hair will make the recipient look younger. this means that the average hair has the potential to grow to a length of 18 to 30 inches before it is shed. The hair growth cycle Will hair enhancements go out of style? can last longer in some people. That is why it is possible to see In the 1960s wigs were a huge business. However, professional people whose hair touches the ground. Approximately 90 percent stylists got almost no financial benefit from this product. In of all hair on a head is in the anagen stage at any given time.

INFORMED Page 21 The catagen stage is a transitional stage between the growing Toupees and resting stages. During this stage the follicle shrinks and A toupee is a small wig used to cover the top of the client’s head. the hair detaches from the papilla. This stage only lasts one to It is commonly worn by men but can also be worn by women. two weeks and less than 1 percent of the hair on a head is in the This hair enhancement is designed for those with severe hair catagen stage at any given time. loss. It can be attached with tape or clips as a temporary method The telogen stage is the resting phase. This stage lasts until the hair or with weaving, tracks, adhesive or sewing which as a semi- is shed. This stage lasts three to six months, and approximately 10 permanent method. percent of the hair on a head is in this stage at any given time. On average, the entire growth cycle repeats itself every four to five years. Surgical options for hair loss Some clients may desire to explore surgical options for their hair Baldness occurs because of a couple of different factors. Age, loss. Following are a few of the techniques being used in this heredity and hormones cause the follicles to shrink. This shrinkage field today: shortens the hair’s growth cycle, eventually shortening it to the point that the hair simply doesn’t grow back again. As the person is In the hair transplantation technique, one to four hairs at a beginning to go bald and the follicles are shrinking, the hair growing time are inserted into the balding area to mimic natural hair out of these miniaturized follicles becomes shorter and finer. The growth. The hairs are harvested from the patient’s own scalp terminal follicles that produce long, thick hair on the scalp are either by cutting out a strip of skin containing hairs from the turned into vellus-like follicles that produce hairs more similar to back of the head or by removing individual hairs from the back the short, fine hair found all over the body. These shorter, finer hairs of the head and transplanting them to the bald areas. If the produce less scalp coverage. In addition, more and more hairs are in surgeon cuts out the strip of skin, the scalp must be sutured back the telogen phase, eventually not producing any more hairs. together and then the surgeon has to cut apart the strip to get the individual hairs and hair follicles to be transplanted. Men and hair loss In the tissue expansion technique, surgeons place a balloon- When a man selects a toupee, it normally is not to change his like device called a tissue expander under a portion of the scalp hair fashion, but rather because of hair loss or alopecia. It is where hair is growing, right next to a bald area. The device is helpful to understand and recognize the various types of alopecia expanded over a period of weeks, causing the skin to stretch. to better serve this clientele. After approximately two months, the device is removed, and the Androgenetic alopecia is a combination of heredity, hormones expanded skin is brought over to cover the bald area. and age that causes shrinking of the hair follicles. The growth In flap surgery a section of bald scalp is cut out and a flap of cycle of the hair is shortened, with the active growth phase skin still growing hair is cut away from the head while keeping becoming shorter and the resting phase becoming longer. one end attached to the original location. This flap is then rotated Eventually the hair does not grow back at all. To determine if into the position where the bald scalp was cut out and sewn androgenetic alopecia is the cause of the client’s hair loss, ask into its place. Because one end is still attached, it still maintains about family history and if the hair loss has been gradual over a its original blood flow. One flap can take the place of 350 hair period of years. In men, this is known as male pattern baldness, grafts. The resulting scar is covered by the relocated hair. resulting in hair loss all over the head except for the horseshoe- Scalp reduction surgery can be used on patients who have shaped section of hair left around the bottom perimeter. In baldness at the top and crown of the head, but not those with women, it is most common for the hair to just become very thin. frontal baldness. First a segment of bald scalp is removed. The It is very rare for a woman to go completely bald. skin surrounding the cut-out area is loosened and pulled so that Alopecia premature is baldness at an early age (25-40 years the scalp with hair growth can be brought together and closed old). This type of baldness can have a devastating effect on the with stitches. client. People perceive this client as being older, less successful, less likeable, less assertive and not as attractive. Wig composition Alopecia senilis is baldness later in life (40 years and older). Wigs can be made out of natural hair fibers, synthetic hair or a This starts as gradual thinning and can progress to total baldness. combination of both. Natural hair fiber comes from China, India Alopecia areata is baldness in spots. The spots are not inflamed, or Europe. The hair from Europe is not as common and it is very and this disorder is often attributed to stress. The hair loss is expensive. The hair from India is soft and has a slight wave. The often reversed, but can occur on different areas of the head every majority of hair comes from China. China has an official method few months. for collecting hair. There are merchants who travel from village to village, collecting cut hair and hair collected from villagers’ combs. Alopecia totalis is complete baldness on the scalp. Remy hair is the term for hair that has been cut from someone’s Alopecia universalis is baldness all over the body, including head, keeping all the hairs running in the same direction to arm and leg hair, eyelashes and eyebrows. reduce tangling. Virgin remy hair has never been chemically Postpartum alopecia can occur after giving birth. During processed. When making wigs and other hair enhancements, pregnancy the hair stays in the active growing stage longer than lighter shades go through more processing to achieve the light- usual. After childbirth, these hairs then all enter the resting and color unless virgin light-colored hair is used. Virgin light-colored shedding phases, seemingly all at one time, resulting in more hair is rare and therefore more expensive. Curly and wavy hair hair loss than usual. It doesn’t take long until this balances out enhancements have to go through more processing to achieve the and the hair returns to normal. desired color and texture.

Page 22 INFORMED Human hair wigs look more realistic but require more care. They same direction by hand, which greatly increases the cost of the wig. have to be shampooed just like a client’s real hair. A human hair Processed hair (or fallen hair) also comes from the hair collected wig can lose its style or frizz on humid days. In addition, the from combs. The hair cuticle will tangle because the hair is all color will oxide, meaning that it will fade with exposure. The facing different directions. This challenge is met by simply stripping hair will break and split if mistreated. off the cuticle with chemicals so that it doesn’t matter which way Synthetic hair fiber costs a fraction of what natural hair does. the hair is facing. Unfortunately, this process leaves the hair drier Advances in synthetic hair production have made the fibers look and more over-processed. An advantage to human hair wigs is that and feel much more natural. Synthetic hair is lighter in weight if they develop split ends, the split ends can be trimmed off. than natural hair and the synthetic fibers have memory, allowing Hair color of wigs clients to wash and shake out the wig into its style. Another Wigs come in every color from lightest blonde to black, with advantage is that weather will not ruin the style. variations in the wig color so the hair looks highlighted. Most However, synthetic hair tends to frizz from rubbing against the wig hair must be lightened because most of it comes from China client’s clothing, and the fibers can be easily damaged from heat and India, and Chinese and Indian hair is black. To achieve the from styling appliances, an open oven door, or any source of finished colors, most hair is then dyed with chrome dyes. If it has heat. In addition, the less expensive the wig, the less natural the not been dyed, it will be marked “non-dyed.” If the stylist wishes wig will look. For instance, it may be too thick or too shiny. to further process the hair, non-dyed hair must be purchased. At Wig prices also depend on how long the fiber is and the type of that point, the wig can be deposit-only colored to a darker color. construction, such as hand-tied versus machine-made. How hair is sold? Some wigs are created out of a blend of synthetic and natural Hair can be purchased in bulk. The hair is loose, making further hair. This helps create style-retaining qualities but complicates processing very difficult. It can be used for individual braiding maintenance because synthetic and natural hair wigs are or interweaving techniques. You can also purchase hair in a weft, cleansed and styled differently. which makes perming and tinting much easier. To create a weft, Yaki is a hair texture that is designed to look and feel like African the hair is sewn together on a special machine, or the weft can be American hair that has gone through a chemical relaxing process. created by hand. There are four types of Yaki hair textures. Silky Yaki (also called Yaki straight) is very close to silky straight hair, but has a little Synthetics used in wigs texture to it. It looks like freshly relaxed and flat-ironed hair. The main synthetic fibers used in wigs and hairpieces are nylon Regular Yaki hair looks like relaxed African American hair that and modacrylic. These fibers are easy to permanently set in a has a little more texture to it than silky Yaki. Kinky Yaki hair curl. This is achieved by the wig manufacturers by wetting the looks like African American hair that has not been relaxed, but hair and then baking the hair in an oven for one hour. Synthetic rather blow-dried straight instead. It is very natural looking. fibers are dyed to 33 different colors, which are blended to create Coarse Yaki looks and feels like African American hair that has natural looking colors. These fibers are not the best choice for hair not been relaxed or blown-dry straight. It looks like natural hair extensions. They do not hold up as well as natural hair, they can’t that has not gone through any chemical processing. be permed or tinted and they are more likely to mat and tangle. A newer synthetic has been developed that can be curled. How can you be sure the hair in a purchased However, it is important that the heat not be too high or that the hairpiece is 100 percent human hair? curling iron be held on the fibers too long, because it will still There are three ways you can test a hairpiece to ensure it is all frizz or burn if these factors are present. human hair. The first test is the burn test. Cut a small piece of hair off the hairpiece, and light with a match or lighter. Human Wig construction hair will burn and will give off a distinctive smell. Synthetic hair will melt. If the hairpiece is made from a blend of human hair Today, wigs are being constructed with fewer fibers and less and synthetic hair, this test will not be conclusive. teasing to create more natural looks. Wigs are available in ready- The next test is the perm test. Cut off and wrap a strand of hair off made one-size-fits-all models. They are held securely to the head the hairpiece around a perm rod. Apply perm solution and process. by stretchy foundations or adjustable elastic bands around the If it is human hair, it will perm. If the hair is synthetic, it will not. edge. In addition, silicone foundations are molded to the client’s exact head shape and are held in place with a suction fit. They The final test is the color test. Place color or bleach on the hair are available in synthetic or human hair and can be purchased cut from the hairpiece. If it changes color, it is human hair. If it in machine-made or hand-tied versions. If a client is willing to does not change, it is synthetic. pay more, semi-custom wigs are available that are hand-knotted Processing natural hair for wigs on different size foundations. The most expensive option is a custom-made wig. These wigs are created using the client’s First, hair must be graded by its quality. Hair can come in three exact head measurements. different ways: REMY hair, root-turned hair and processed hair. Remy hair comes from hair that is cut from the head and maintained Machine-made wigs are made by creating wefts, which are strips in a controlled fashion, such as in a ponytail. This hair will all face of hair sewn together into a long strip. The wefts are then sewn the same direction, with the ends all together. Since the cuticle is together to create the wig. There are gaps between the wefts, all facing downward, the hair is less likely to tangle. Root-turned which can be visible if the hair is parted. The style cannot be hair is hair that has been collected from combs and then turned the changed with this type of construction.

INFORMED Page 23 Hand-tied wigs are created by knotting anywhere from one to Cap/foundation types eight hairs at a time into a foundation. This gives a very natural A standard cap is wefted in the back and sides and has a closed look to the wig, as if the hairs were growing out of the head. lace layer at the crown. The hair is teased so that one cannot see To create a custom-fitted, hand-tied wig, the wig manufacturer the cap. turns all the hairs so they are facing the same direction. Short A capless wig is wefted over 20-75 percent of the wig, making hairs are removed by combing the hair with a hackle (wire brush). the cap lighter and cooler to wear than a standard cap. The remaining hair is tied together and the hair is hand washed A full capless wig is open over more than 90 percent of the cap, and dried. At this point, the hair can be permed by wrapping and making it the lightest of the three options. boiling the curls in water. The hair is then blended with as many as five different colors of hair to produce a more natural look. An adjustable cap comes in an average size and can be adjusted smaller or larger using Velcro tabs. The foundation of the wig is constructed to the client’s head shape by taking six different measurements or by making a Monofilament caps are constructed out of breathable, flesh- template of the client’s head. The template can be made by tone material that allows the natural color of the scalp to appear making a plaster cast or by covering the client’s head with plastic through it. The hair is hand tied, allowing a part in any location. wrap and then applying clear tape over the plastic until the entire The wig may be entirely hand tied, or it may look like this in the head is covered. The hairline is drawn onto the tape and then the top area and have wefted sides and back. These wigs may feature template is cut out to that shape. Parts are drawn in. a “no-slip” band at the front hairline and even at the sides. These wigs sit closer to the head to look more natural. They are The foundation is created by using fine netting for the hairline available in synthetic and human hair fibers. and a coarser netting for the remainder of the foundation. If a part will be visible, even finer netting is used in this area. A lace-front cap gives the most realistic appearance up close. It can be glued down and worn for a few weeks before needing to be A paper pattern is created from the plaster casting, tape pattern removed and reapplied. The lace can go around the entire hairline or measurements taken and is placed on a block. The netting is so the hair can be pulled up into a high ponytail and look natural. place over this pattern and held in place by lacing cotton thread through the netting and into anchoring points on the block. An entire hand-tied wig will look very natural and is very lightweight. The hair will move just like a natural head of hair. This Springs made from steel watch springs or elastic bands are is the most expensive but the most beautiful type of wig construction incorporated into the foundation to hold the completed wig in and is available in synthetic fiber and human hair fibers. place on the client’s head. A skin-part cap has an insert of a scalp-colored plastic with Hairs are attached to the foundation by knotting the hair, using groups of 10-15 hairs inserted to give the appearance of hair a technique similar to latch hooking. The hair must be twice as growing out of the scalp. The rest of the wig is wefted, and the long as the finished wig, because it is doubled over. Along the part cannot be changed. part and the hairline, single hairs are knotted, while in the crown up to eight hairs are knotted at a time. A wig requires 30,000 to A V-knot skin top has finer groups of two to four hairs 40,000 knots, which will take about 40 hours of tying. randomly implanted into the skin top. This makes the top look even more natural, without rows of hair. Lace-front wigs The pure stretch cap will stretch around the entire perimeter Lace-front wigs can be glued on or sewn on to secure for the client. and is the most comfortable cap designed. To glue on a lace-front wig, first create a flat surface for the wig to sit on. You can do this by braiding the hair down, molding it Choosing the best wig style for the client or applying a wig liner over the hair. Cleanse the forehead with The ideal facial shape is the oval. Clients, on the other hand will alcohol so the glue will adhere properly. The wig hair should be have many other facial shapes. The aim is to choose a style that pinned up so that when the wig’s pressed down into the glue the will create the illusion of an oval facial shape. hairs of the wig will not get caught in the glue. Trim the excess lace, making a smooth edge. Place the wig on the client’s head and The oval facial shape is longer than it is wide, with cheekbones lightly outline the edges. Apply adhesive to the client’s hairline and that are wider than the forehead or chin area. This facial shape allow it to dry to a tacky layer. Place the wig over it and press the looks great with any style. edges down with a comb. Do not use your fingers to push the lace The round facial shape has a wide cheekbone area and more down because the hair will mat around the edge. Do not reapply fullness to the face in general. The aim is to narrow the face and glue to an area that already has glue applied. It will not stick. add height and length to the face. Keep the style close on the To remove a glued-on lace-front wig, first pull all hair up into sides and full on top. a ponytail. Apply the lace adhesive remover to the adhesive The square facial shape has a broad forehead and jawline. This around the hairline. Let it sit a minute or two, then gradually facial shape needs height on top without bangs. Keep the hair begin to ease the edge loose. Clean the wig when it has been close on the sides and choose wigs with waves or curls to break removed from the head. The glue that is embedded in the lace up the straight lines. has to be removed before shampooing the wig. The diamond-shaped face has a narrow forehead and jawline, To apply a lace-front wig by sewing it in, first secure the hair with width through the cheekbone area. Bangs are a good choice under a wig cap. The lace edge is then sewn onto the cap. When to disguise the narrowness of the forehead. Keep the style close the wig is secure, the wig is then styled to the desired look. at the sides and add width at the chin (bobs work great for this

Page 24 INFORMED facial shape). Make sure there isn’t much height to the style or the other ear. The fourth measurement is taken across the crown of too much volume on the sides. the head, from just above one ear to just above the other ear. The fifth A heart-shaped face is characterized by a wide forehead and a measurement runs straight across the back of the head from temple narrow chin. Bangs will help to disguise the width of the forehead. to temple, and the sixth measurement is taken horizontally from one Keep the hair close on the sides, but keep it fuller around the jaw. end of the nape, along the hairline to the other end of the nape. A pear-shaped face has a narrow forehead and a wide jawline. Most women can wear an average size wig which fits head sizes Keep the hair full and add bangs to the forehead area. Keep the 21½-22½ inches. An ultra-petite or child’s wig will fit 18-19½ inches hair close at the sides and nape. heads. A petite wig will fit 20-21 inches and petite-average will fit 20½-21½ inches. Large-average fits heads with a circumference of The oblong-shaped face is characterized by a long and narrow 22-23 inches and large fits head sizes of 22½-24 inches. face. Use a bang to visually shorten the length of the face and add fullness on the sides. A wig shouldn’t fit too tightly or it will ride up. The front should sit at the natural hairline with the side tabs centered above the Profiles ears, and the back will sit under the occipital bone. The tips of the There are three kinds of profiles that must be looked at when wires in the side tabs should be gently shaped toward the face. choosing wig styles. The first is the straight profile. This profile has no special problems, and any style of wig can be worn. The second How to put on a wig type of profile is the concave profile. This profile is characterized First the hair must be prepared so that it lays flat and the wig will by a protruding forehead and chin. When choosing a wig style for sit correctly on the head. The hair can be cornrowed, wrapped this type of profile the aim is to minimize the forehead by selecting or secured with pin curls so that it lies as flat as possible. A wig a wig with bangs. When viewing the client from the side, the hair cap can be pulled over the hair to secure it. Identify the front of should be full in the back to balance out the chin. The third type the wig (there will be a tag in the back) and hold it against the of profile is the convex profile. This type of profile has a receding forehead. Slide the wig over the head to the nape. Grasp the wig forehead and chin with a more prominent nose. The aim when at the ear tabs and pull it down securely. If the wig is loose, take choosing a wig for this client is to disguise the receding forehead it off and adjust the tabs in the back of the head to make it tighter with full bangs to balance out the face. In addition, a style such as a and then repeat the above steps. forward diagonal bob will help the chin area appear larger. How to block a wig Client consultation A block is a form that the wig is put on to air-dry and style. It A client consultation is the most important part of a wig service. is made of styrofoam or cork and is secured to the work area It is important to determine what the client’s expectations are. with a clamp. The wig is put on the block in the same manner as Purchasing a wig or hair extensions can be a huge financial the client’s head. Hold the wig against the form in the front and investment for the client. In addition, if the client is in the salon then pull the wig down over the form. Pin the wig to the form at because of hair loss, this purchase can be emotional as well. the center back hairline, and at the corners of the back hairline. Place a pin at each ear point and at the center front hairline. First, determine why the client is seeking a hair addition service. Next, determine the client’s personality. Will the client want a hair Cleaning and conditioning – lace wig enhancement that is natural and doesn’t draw attention, or does the Cleaning and conditioning of lace wigs should be done once a client want a bold statement? Also, consider the client’s age and week, when it is removed from the client’s head. The client’s occupation. Take note of the client’s hair texture, growth patterns, hair is then shampooed and conditioned as well. density and condition of his or her hair. Bring to the client’s attention all the options available including wigs, hair extensions, Cleaning and conditioning – human hair hairpieces and toupees. Does the client want a temporary (wig) A human hair wig should be washed after every 10-12 uses. Fill a or semi-permanent (hair extension) hair enhancement? During container with lukewarm water. Add the recommended amount of the consultation discuss color options, using a sample color ring. human hair wig shampoo and agitate with your hands. Place the Discuss with the client costs involved with all options. Also wig in the water and shampoo mixture and gently swish for about discuss custom services available, such as perming, coloring, 30 seconds to a minute. Gently scrub the front of the foundation cutting and styling of wigs and other hair enhancements. with a cotton ball or toothbrush. Allow the wig to soak for about 15 minutes. Remove wig and rinse in lukewarm water. Apply a Wig measurement and fitting spray-on conditioner. Squeeze out excess water by wrapping the There are six measurements that are taken to create a custom wig in a towel and pressing. Do not wring out or twist. The hair wig: the circumference of the head, from the front hairline to the can be set on curlers and placed under a warm (not hot) dryer or nape, across the forehead, the top of the head, from temple to left out overnight to dry. A curling iron can also be used to style. temple and the width of the neck. Remember, the less heat used on the wig, the longer it will last. The circumference is measured ½-inch above the nape of the neck, the ears and the front hairline. This measurement will range from Cleaning and conditioning – synthetic fiber 19-24 inches. An average size head is between 21½-22½ inches. Because synthetic wigs do not hold or attract dirt or oils, they The second measurement is taken from the hairline in the front, only need to be washed every 15-20 uses. Fill a container with straight over the crown to the hairline in the nape area. The third cool water. Add the recommended amount of synthetic wig measurement is taken right along the hairline from the point just in shampoo and agitate with your hands. Place the wig in the water front of the ear, across the hairline in the front, to the point in front of and shampoo mixture and gently swish for about 30 seconds

INFORMED Page 25 to a minute. Gently scrub the front of the foundation with a attempting to tint, natural hairpieces that still have the cuticle cotton ball or toothbrush. Allow the wig to soak for about 15 intact and have not been tinted with metallic dyes will give the minutes. Remove wig and rinse in cool water. Apply a spray-on best results. However, remember that the hair in the hairpiece conditioner. Squeeze out excess water by wrapping the wig in a has come from many different heads of hair so not all the hair towel and pressing. Do not wring out or twist. Shake the wig out in the hairpiece will react the same way. Do a strand test and gently and place on a wig block to dry. When the wig is dry, the only use semi-permanent, demi-permanent, glaze, rinse or color hair can be picked out. Never use a blow dryer, curling iron or mousse products if it is absolutely necessary to change the color. straightener because they will frizz or melt a synthetic wig. Look Good Feel Better To reset a synthetic wig, set the hair on curlers or perm rods, using Look Good Feel Better is a program offered by the American end wraps to control the ends. Using a clothes steamer, apply steam Cancer Society, the Personal Care Products Council Foundation to each curl for about three to four seconds and then allow to cool and the National Cosmetology Association to people going and dry before removing from the curlers. This process will relax and through cancer treatment. This program is free to the patients then reset the hair into a new curly form without damaging the fibers. and is brand neutral, salon neutral and non-medical. Each of the Cutting and shaping three partners has a different responsibility. The American Cancer Hair growing naturally on the head is many different lengths Society handles all registrations and scheduling. The Personal Care even if it is a solid cut. This is due to the fact that all hairs on the Products Council Foundation, made up of the toiletry, fragrance and head are at various stages as they are growing out. A wig that is makeup manufacturers, supplies the makeup kits, worth more than cut to one length will therefore look unnatural. It is important to $10 million annually. The National Cosmetology Association is taper the ends. The cutting and shaping should be done after the responsible for recruiting cosmetologists to conduct the sessions. hair is placed on the client’s head. To cut and shape a wig, it is To volunteer for Look Good Feel Better, a stylist should contact best to use techniques that mimic a razor cut. the American Cancer Society. The American Cancer Society will Human hair wigs can be shaped and thinned with shears, a razor arrange for training so the stylist can conduct Look Good Feel Better and thinning shears. sessions. The stylist will be trained in wig care, makeup application, wraps and head coverings and nail care. The sessions are generally Synthetic wigs cannot actually be cut with a razor. The razor will held at a community room or the local hospital instead of a salon. fray the ends. A pair of thinning shears can be used to taper the hair. In addition, very small sections of hair can be twisted and Female cancer patients can call 1-800-395-LOOK (800-395-5665) then cut, or a point cut method can be used where the shears are or log onto www.lookgoodfeelbetter.org to find a workshop in cutting into the hair, rather than cutting the hair off bluntly. their area. Patients get to talk to others going through the same treatment. The patients can experiment with wigs, hats and turbans. Brushing and styling There are some limited sessions for teens, centered around major If using heated styling tools on natural hair wigs, always set the hospital centers. Teens also have their own website at www.2beme. tools to low heat. Purchase a good wig brush or comb to use org. Men have the availability of an informational brochure. on wigs. For natural hair wigs, boar bristle brushes work well. Look Good Feel Better does not distribute wigs to participants. Synthetic brushes with rounded teeth also work well. With any Some American Cancer Society offices have wig banks that brush or comb one must be gentle; the hair cannot grow back. distribute wigs to those in financial need. The American Cancer If setting the hair with curlers or pin curls, t-pins can be used Society also provides a $75 voucher towards the purchase of to secure the curlers or pin curls in place. The challenge when a new wig for qualified individuals. Look Good Feel Better styling is to make the wig look real in the crown, the part and does not accept hair donations for wigs, but there are four around the hairline. organizations that do. Their websites are: locksoflove.org, wigsforkids.org, pantene.com, and pinkbarrette.org. Look Good Perming Feel Better does not accept donations of gently used wigs from When perming a natural hair hairpiece, make sure it has not individuals, but the American Cancer Society does. been tinted with a metallic dye. It must be virgin hair. It can then be placed on a wig block that has been covered with plastic. Insurance The wig is then wrapped and processed as usual. Take frequent Clients suffering from alopecia or undergoing cancer treatment test curls because the hair has already been processed prior to could be eligible for reimbursement from their insurance company. making it into the hairpiece. Have the doctor write a prescription for a cranial hair prosthesis. Send this and a copy of the wig receipt to the insurance company. When perming synthetic hair, wrap the hair on curlers or perm When filing a claim for a wig, call it a cranial hair prosthesis – most rods and then steam with a clothes steamer. Allow the hair to insurance companies will cover 80-100 percent of the expense. cool and dry before removing from the curlers or rods. This method will work even though dry heat, such as from a curling Hair extensions iron, will melt and frizz synthetic wigs. Hair extensions are hair additions that are secured to the base of Tinting the client’s natural hair to add volume or length. The extensions All human hair wigs and hairpieces are colored to one of are added through track and sew methods, bonding techniques or the 70 colors used by wig and hairpiece manufacturers. It is fusion techniques. recommended to purchase the wig or hairpiece in the color(s) In the track and sew method, first, an on-the-scalp braid or cornrow desired rather than try to change the color after purchase. If is braided onto the head. The track can be placed horizontally,

Page 26 INFORMED vertically, diagonally or along curved lines. A weft (which is a strip Wigs and Hairpieces of hair sewn together) is then sewn into the cornrow using a needle and a thread. The stitches used include a lock stitch, double-lock Self-Assessment stitch or overcast stitch. Make sure to use a blunt needle to attach Select the best answer for each question and mark your answers the weft to the client’s head to protect the client. on the Self-Assessment Answer Sheet on page 89 or complete In the bonding method, a weft or single strand of hair is attached your test online at www.nccosmo.cme.edu. to the client’s hair with an adhesive or glue. This type of hair extension is fast, but doesn’t last as long as track and sew 11. Donations of cosmetics and toiletries come from which because of slippage. It will last for two to four weeks depending Look Good Feel Better partner? on care and oiliness or dryness of the scalp. The weft is bonded a. The American Cancer Society. to a clean parting, staying at least one inch from the hairline, b. The Personal Care Products Council Foundation. crown and part so the extensions are not visible. It is important c. The National Cosmetology Association. that the correct amount of adhesive is used so that it will adhere d. Look Good Feel Better. yet not bond together other stray hairs. Always do a patch test with this method to ensure the client is not allergic to the bond. 12. A human hair wig should soak in a mixture of lukewarm In the fusion method the extension is bonded to the client’s hair with water and wig shampoo for: a special bonding material activated by the heat from the fusion tool. a. 10 minutes. This attachment is longer lasting (up to four months) and because b. 15 minutes. the amount of hair attached at any one time is very small and it is c. 20 minutes. attached to small sections of hair, it moves like real hair. d. 25 minutes. Off-the-scalp braiding with loose fiber 13. What type of Yaki hair texture looks like blow-dried In this method, a small section of loose fiber is doubled over with African American hair? the closed end toward the scalp and both ends hanging down with the ends of the hair. A section of the client’s hair is picked up and a. Silky Yaki. divided into three strands. The loose fiber is incorporated into b. Regular Yaki. the two outside pieces of hair. An underbraid technique is used to c. Kinky Yaki. braid the hair down the strand. The tiny individual braids are then d. Coarse Yaki. incorporated into the final style. This type of extension takes the most time and is very expensive for the client. 14. Hair that has been manually turned so all the cuticle scales are facing the same way is known as: On-the-scalp braiding with loose fiber a. REMY hair. In this method, a part is created preparatory to creating a track (or b. Root-turned hair. cornrow). Start with a small section of hair at the beginning of the c. Processed hair. track, divide into three strands and do an underbraid technique. d. Natural hair. Incorporate a looped section of loose fiber into the right-hand strand. Braid the one side of the loose strand into the track, allowing 15. An average wig will fit head sizes: the other end to hang free, creating more volume in the finished hairstyle. Repeat with the strand on the left side of the track. Repeat a. 20-21”. this technique all along the track. The finished technique will have b. 20½-21½”. tracks created throughout the head, with hair coming out of the tracks c. 21½-22½”. along the length of the track, adding fullness and length to the hair. d. 22-23”. Track and sew In this method, a three-strand underbraid creates a track. A weft of hair is sewn to the track to secure it. Bonding wefts Before applying a bonded weft, do a patch test to ensure the client is not allergic to the bonding material. Make sure the client’s hair and the weft are both completely dry. Cut the weft to the correct length and adhere along the parting. Bonding strands In this method, a small section of hair is parted and isolated by a plastic disc. An equally small piece of loose fiber with a bonding agent already on it is added to the section. A heated tong is used to soften the bonding agent. The fingers are used to roll the two pieces of hair together until the strands have bonded.

INFORMED Page 27 Chapter 4 Indoor Air Quality Guide (2 CE Hours)

Learning objectives There are many sources of indoor air pollution. These include `` Identify common sources of air pollutants. combustion sources such as oil, gas, kerosene, coal, wood; `` Identify methods to address contamination. building materials and furnishings as diverse as deteriorated, `` Describe the health effects of exposure to indoor air pollution. asbestos-containing insulation, wet or damp carpet, and cabinetry `` Describe sensitivities to indoor air pollutants. or furniture made of certain pressed wood products; products `` Discuss proper salon disinfection. for cleaning and maintenance, personal care, central heating and `` Identify chemical contaminants versus biological contaminants. cooling systems and humidification devices; and outdoor sources `` Explain the proper uses of ventilation systems. such as radon, pesticides, and outdoor air pollution. The relative importance of any single source depends on how Indoor air quality guide much of a given pollutant it emits and how hazardous those emissions are. In some cases, factors such as how old the source U.S. EPA/Office of Air and Radiation / Office of Radiation and is and whether it is properly maintained are significant. For Indoor Air (6609J) / Cosponsored with the Consumer Product example, an improperly adjusted gas heater can emit significantly Safety Commission more carbon monoxide than one that is properly adjusted. Indoor air quality concerns Some sources, such as building materials, furnishings, and All of us face a variety of risks to our health as we go about products like air fresheners, release pollutants more or less our day-to-day lives. Driving in cars, flying in planes, engaging continuously. Other sources release pollutants intermittently. in recreational activities, and being exposed to environmental These include smoking, the use of unvented or malfunctioning pollutants all pose varying degrees of risk. Some risks are furnaces or space heaters, the use of solvents in cleaning, the simply unavoidable. Some we choose to accept because to do use of paint strippers in redecorating activities, and the use of otherwise would restrict our ability to lead our lives the way we cleaning products and pesticides. High pollutant concentrations want. And some are risks we might decide to avoid if we had the can remain in the air for long periods after some of these opportunity to make informed choices. Indoor air pollution is activities. one risk that you can do something about. If too little outdoor air enters a space, pollutants can accumulate In the last several years, a growing body of scientific evidence to levels that can pose health and comfort problems. Unless they has indicated that the air within buildings can be more seriously are built with special mechanical means of ventilation, spaces polluted than the outdoor air in even the largest and most that are designed and constructed to minimize the amount of industrialized cities. Other research indicates that people spend outdoor air that can “leak” into and out of the salon may have approximately 90 percent of their time indoors. Thus, for many higher pollutant levels than other places of business. people, the risks to health may be greater due to exposure to air Solutions to air quality problems involve such actions as pollution indoors than from those outdoors. eliminating or controlling the sources of pollution, increasing While pollutant levels from individual sources may not pose ventilation, and installing air cleaning devices. Often an a significant health risk by themselves, most buildings have occupant can take the appropriate action to improve the indoor more than one source that contributes to indoor air pollution. air quality by removing a source, altering an activity, unblocking There can be a serious risk from the cumulative effects of these an air supply vent, or opening a window to temporarily increase sources. Fortunately, there are steps that most people can take the ventilation; in other cases, however, only the building owner both to reduce the risk from existing sources and to prevent new or manager is in a position to remedy the problem. problems from occurring. You can encourage building management to follow guidance Because so many Americans spend a lot of time in buildings in EPA’s IAQ Building Education and Assessment Model with mechanical heating, cooling, and ventilation systems, there (I-BEAM) (http://www.epa.gov/iaq/largebldgs/i-beam/index. is also a short section on the causes of poor air quality in salons html). I-BEAM updates and expands EPA’s existing building air and what you can do if you suspect that your salon may have a quality guidance and is designed to be comprehensive, state-of- problem. A glossary and a list of organizations where you can the-art guidance for managing IAQ in commercial buildings. get additional information are available in this document. This guidance was designed to be used by building professionals and others interested in indoor air quality in commercial What causes indoor air problems? buildings. I-BEAM contains text, animation/visual, and Indoor pollution sources that release gases or particles into interactive/calculation components that can be used to perform the air are the primary cause of indoor air quality problems. a number of diverse tasks. You can also encourage building Inadequate ventilation can increase indoor pollutant levels by not management to follow guidance in EPA and NIOSH’s Building bringing in enough outdoor air to dilute emissions from indoor Air Quality: A Guide for Building Owners and Facility Managers sources and by not carrying indoor air pollutants out of the (The BAQ is available as PDF files that can be downloaded and space. High temperature and humidity levels can also increase viewed individually or as a single file with all of the PDF files. concentrations of some pollutants. The link is http://www.epa.gov/iaq/largebldgs/baqtoc.html).

Page 28 INFORMED Indoor air and your health A third way to decide whether your environment may have poor Health effects from indoor air pollutants may be experienced indoor air quality is to look at your lifestyle and activities. Human soon after exposure or possibly years later. activities can be significant sources of indoor air pollution. Finally, look for signs of problems with the ventilation in your environment. Immediate effects may show up after a single exposure or repeated Signs that can indicate your environment may not have enough exposures. These include irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, ventilation include moisture condensation on windows or walls, and headaches, dizziness, and fatigue. Such immediate effects are smelly or stuffy air, dirty central heating and air cooling equipment, usually short-term and treatable. Sometimes the treatment is simply and areas where items become moldy (see www.epa.gov/mold). eliminating the person’s exposure to the source of the pollution, if it can be identified. Symptoms of some diseases, including asthma, Basic strategies hypersensitivity pneumonitis, and humidifier fever, may also show up soon after exposure to some indoor air pollutants. Source control The likelihood of immediate reactions to indoor air pollutants Usually the most effective way to improve indoor air quality is depends on several factors. Age and preexisting medical to eliminate individual sources of pollution or to reduce their conditions are two important influences. In other cases, whether emissions. Some sources, like those that contain asbestos, can be a person reacts to a pollutant depends on individual sensitivity, sealed or enclosed; others, like gas furnaces, can be adjusted to which varies tremendously from person to person. Some decrease the amount of emissions. In many cases, source control people can become sensitized to biological pollutants after is also a more cost-efficient approach to protecting indoor air repeated exposures, and it appears that some people can become quality than increasing ventilation because increasing ventilation sensitized to chemical pollutants as well. can increase energy costs. Certain immediate effects are similar to those from colds or Air cleaners other viral diseases, so it is often difficult to determine whether There are many types and sizes of air cleaners on the market, the symptoms are a result of exposure to indoor air pollution. For ranging from relatively inexpensive tabletop models to this reason, it is important to pay attention to the time and place sophisticated and expensive systems. Some air cleaners are the symptoms occur. If the symptoms fade or go away when highly effective at particle removal, while others, including most a person is away from the salon and return when the person tabletop models, are much less so. Air cleaners are generally not returns, an effort should be made to identify indoor air sources designed to remove gaseous pollutants. that may be possible causes. Some effects may be made worse by an inadequate supply of outdoor air or from the heating, The effectiveness of an air cleaner depends on how well it collects cooling, or humidity conditions prevalent in the salon. pollutants from indoor air (expressed as a percentage efficiency rate) and how much air it draws through the cleaning or filtering Other health effects may show up either years after exposure element (expressed in cubic feet per minute). A very efficient has occurred or only after long or repeated periods of exposure. collector with a low air-circulation rate will not be effective, nor These effects, which include some respiratory diseases, heart will a cleaner with a high air-circulation rate but a less efficient disease, and cancer, can be severely debilitating or fatal. It is collector. The long-term performance of any air cleaner depends prudent to try to improve the indoor air quality even if symptoms on maintaining it according to the manufacturer’s directions. are not noticeable. Another important factor in determining the effectiveness of an While pollutants commonly found in indoor air are responsible for air cleaner is the strength of the pollutant source. Tabletop air many harmful effects, there is considerable uncertainty about what cleaners in particular may not remove satisfactory amounts of concentrations or periods of exposure are necessary to produce pollutants from strong nearby sources. People with a sensitivity specific health problems. People also react very differently to to particular sources may find that air cleaners are helpful only in exposure to indoor air pollutants. Further research is needed to conjunction with concerted efforts to remove the source. better understand which health effects occur after exposure to the average pollutant concentrations and which occur from the higher Over the past few years, there has been some publicity suggesting concentrations that occur for short periods of time. that plants have been shown to reduce levels of some chemicals in laboratory experiments. There is currently no evidence, however, Some health effects can be useful indicators of an indoor that a reasonable number of plants remove significant quantities of air quality problem, especially if they appear after moving, pollutants in an indoor environment. Indoor plants should not be renovating, or treating a salon with an indoor pesticide. If you over-watered because overly damp soil may promote the growth think that you have symptoms that may be related to your of microorganisms that can affect allergic individuals. environment, discuss them with your doctor or your local health department to see if they could be caused by indoor air pollution. At present, EPA does not recommend using air cleaners to You may also want to consult a board-certified allergist or an reduce levels of radon and its decay products. The effectiveness occupational medicine specialist for answers to your questions. of these devices is uncertain because they only partially remove the radon decay products and do not diminish the amount of Another way to judge whether your environment has or could radon entering the salon. EPA plans to do additional research on develop indoor air problems is to identify potential sources of whether air cleaners are, or could become, a reliable means of indoor air pollution. Although the presence of such sources reducing the health risk from radon. does not necessarily mean that you have an indoor air quality problem, being aware of the type and number of potential For most indoor air quality problems, source control is the most sources is an important step toward assessing the air quality in effective solution. This section takes a source-by-source look your environment.

INFORMED Page 29 at the most common indoor air pollutants, their potential health source of one of the most powerful biological allergens, grow in effects, and ways to reduce levels. damp, warm environments. A look at source-specific controls Some biological contaminants trigger allergic reactions, including hypersensitivity pneumonitis, allergic rhinitis, and Radon (Rn) some types of asthma. Infectious illnesses, such as influenza, measles, and chickenpox are transmitted through the air. Molds The most common source of indoor radon is uranium in the soil and mildews release disease-causing toxins. Symptoms of health or rock on which buildings are built. As uranium naturally breaks problems caused by biological pollutants include sneezing, down, it releases radon gas, a colorless, odorless, radioactive gas. watery eyes, coughing, shortness of breath, dizziness, lethargy, Radon gas enters indoor spaces through cracks in concrete walls fever, and digestive problems. and floors, floor drains, and sumps. When radon becomes trapped in buildings and concentrations build up indoors, exposure to Allergic reactions occur only after repeated exposure to a radon becomes a concern. specific biological allergen. However, that reaction may occur immediately upon re-exposure or after multiple exposures over Health effects of radon time. As a result, people who have noticed only mild allergic The predominant health effect associated with exposure to reactions or no reactions at all may suddenly find themselves elevated levels of radon is lung cancer. Research suggests that very sensitive to particular allergens. swallowing water with high radon levels may pose risks, too, Some diseases, like humidifier fever, are associated with exposure although these are believed to be much lower than those from to toxins from microorganisms that can grow in large building breathing air containing radon. Major health organizations (like ventilation systems. However, these diseases can also be traced the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the American to microorganisms that grow in heating and cooling systems and Lung Association (ALA), and the American Medical Association) humidifiers. Children, elderly people, and people with breathing agree with estimates that radon causes thousands of preventable problems, allergies, and lung diseases are particularly susceptible lung cancer deaths each year. EPA estimates that radon causes to disease-causing biological agents in the indoor air. about 14,000 deaths per year in the United States – however, this number could range from 7,000 to 30,000 deaths per year. Reducing exposure to biological contaminants If using cool mist or ultrasonic humidifiers, clean appliances Reducing exposure to radon according to manufacturer’s instructions and refill with fresh Measure levels of radon in your salon water daily. You can’t see radon, but it’s not hard to find out if you have a Because these humidifiers can become breeding grounds for radon problem. Testing is easy and should only take a little of biological contaminants, they have the potential for causing your time. There are many kinds of inexpensive, do-it-yourself diseases such as hypersensitivity pneumonitis and humidifier radon test kits you can get through the mail and in hardware fever. Evaporation trays in air conditioners, dehumidifiers, and stores and other retail outlets. EPA recommends that consumers refrigerators should also be cleaned frequently. use test kits that are state-certified or have met the requirements Thoroughly clean and dry water-damaged carpets and building of some national radon proficiency program. If you prefer, materials (within 24 hours if possible) or consider removal and you can hire a trained contractor to do the testing for you. You replacement. should call your state radon office to obtain a list of qualified contractors in your area. You can also contact either the National Water-damaged carpets and building materials can harbor mold Environmental Health Association’s (NEHA) National Radon and bacteria. It is very difficult to completely rid such materials Proficiency Program (NRPP) www.neha-nrpp.org, or the of biological contaminants. National Radon Safety Board (NRSB) www.nrsb.org for a list of proficient radon measurement and/or mitigation contractors. Health effects of combustion products Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless gas that interferes Biological contaminants with the delivery of oxygen throughout the body. At high Biological contaminants include bacteria, molds, mildew, concentrations it can cause unconsciousness and death. Lower viruses, dust mites, cockroaches, and pollen. There are many concentrations can cause a range of symptoms from headaches, sources of these pollutants. Pollens originate from plants; viruses dizziness, weakness, nausea, confusion, and disorientation, to are transmitted by people and animals; bacteria are carried by fatigue in healthy people and episodes of increased chest pain people, animals, and soil and plant debris. The protein in urine in people with chronic heart disease. The symptoms of carbon from rats and mice is a potent allergen. When it dries, it can monoxide poisoning are sometimes confused with the flu or become airborne. Contaminated central air handling systems food poisoning. Fetuses, infants, elderly people, and people with can become breeding grounds for mold, mildew, and other anemia or with a history of heart or respiratory disease can be sources of biological contaminants and can then distribute these especially sensitive to carbon monoxide exposures. contaminants through the salon. By controlling the relative Nitrogen dioxide (NO2) is a reddish-brown, irritating odor gas that humidity level in an indoor environment, the growth of some irritates the mucous membranes in the eye, nose, and throat and sources of biologicals can be minimized. A relative humidity of causes shortness of breath after exposure to high concentrations. 30-50 percent is generally recommended. Standing water, water- There is evidence that high concentrations or continued exposure damaged materials, or wet surfaces also serve as a breeding to low levels of nitrogen dioxide increases the risk of respiratory ground for molds, mildews, bacteria, and insects. Dust mites, the infection; there is also evidence from animal studies that repeated

Page 30 INFORMED exposures to elevated nitrogen dioxide levels may lead or discussion of salon disinfection” below). One study suggests contribute to the development of lung disease such as emphysema. that 80 percent of most people’s exposure to pesticides occurs People at particular risk from exposure to nitrogen dioxide include indoors and that measurable levels of up to a dozen pesticides children and individuals with asthma and other respiratory diseases. have been found indoors. The amount of pesticides found Particles, released when fuels are incompletely burned, can appears to be greater than can be explained by recent pesticide lodge in the lungs and irritate or damage lung tissue. A number use; other possible sources include contaminated soil or dust that of pollutants, including radon and benzo(a)pyrene, both of which floats or is tracked in from outside, stored pesticide containers, can cause cancer, attach to small particles that are inhaled and and surfaces that collect and then release the pesticides. then carried deep into the lung. Pesticides used include products to control insects (insecticides), termites (termiticides), rodents (rodenticides), fungi (fungicides), Common products and microbes (disinfectants). They are sold as sprays, liquids, Organic chemicals are widely used as ingredients in many sticks, powders, crystals, balls, and foggers. common, everyday products. Paints, varnishes, and wax all contain EPA registers pesticides for use and requires manufacturers to put organic solvents, as do many cleaning, disinfecting, cosmetic, and information on the label about when and how to use the pesticide. degreasing products. Fuels are made up of organic chemicals. All It is important to remember that the “-cide” in pesticides means of these products can release organic compounds while you are “to kill.” These products can be dangerous if not used properly. using them, and, to some degree, when they are stored. In addition to the active ingredient, pesticides are also made EPA’s Total Exposure Assessment Methodology (TEAM) studies up of ingredients that are used to carry the active agent. These found levels of about a dozen common organic pollutants to be carrier agents are called “inerts” in pesticides because they 2 to 5 times higher inside than outside, regardless of whether the are not toxic to the targeted pest; nevertheless, some inerts are indoor environment were located in rural or highly industrial areas. capable of causing health problems. Additional TEAM studies indicate that while people are using products containing organic chemicals, they can expose themselves Health effects from pesticides and others to very high pollutant levels, and elevated concentrations Both the active and inert ingredients in pesticides can be can persist in the air long after the activity is completed. organic compounds; therefore, both could add to the levels of airborne organics inside salons. Both types of ingredients can Reducing exposure to formaldehyde cause the effects discussed in this document under “Common Ask about the formaldehyde content of pressed products,” however, as with other products, there is insufficient understanding at present about what pesticide concentrations are wood products, including salon cabinetry and necessary to produce these effects. furniture before you purchase/install them. Exposure to high levels of cyclodiene pesticides, commonly If you experience adverse reactions to formaldehyde, you may associated with misapplication, has produced various symptoms, want to avoid the use of pressed wood products and other including headaches, dizziness, muscle twitching, weakness, formaldehyde-emitting goods. Even if you do not experience tingling sensations, and nausea. In addition, EPA is concerned such reactions, you may wish to reduce your exposure as much that cyclodienes might cause long-term damage to the liver and as possible by purchasing exterior-grade products, which emit the central nervous system, as well as an increased risk of cancer. less formaldehyde. For further information on formaldehyde in commercial and consumer products, call the EPA Toxic There is no further sale or commercial use permitted for the Substance Control Act (TSCA) assistance line (202-554-1404). following cyclodiene or related pesticides: chlordane, aldrin, dieldrin, and heptachlor. The only exception is the use of heptachlor Some studies suggest that coating pressed wood products with by utility companies to control fire ants in underground cable boxes. polyurethane may reduce formaldehyde emissions for some period of time. To be effective, any such coating must cover all Reducing exposure to pesticides surfaces and edges and remain intact. Increase the ventilation and carefully follow the manufacturer instructions while Read the label and follow the directions. It applying these coatings. (If you are sensitive to formaldehyde, is illegal to use any pesticide in any manner check the label contents before purchasing coating products to inconsistent with the directions on its label. avoid buying products that contain formaldehyde, as they will Unless you have had special training and are certified, never emit the chemical for a short time after application.) Maintain use a pesticide that is restricted to use by state-certified pest moderate temperature and humidity levels and provide adequate control operators. Such pesticides are simply too dangerous for ventilation. The rate at which formaldehyde is released is application by a non-certified person. Use only the pesticides accelerated by heat and may also depend somewhat on the approved for use by the general public and then only in humidity level. Therefore, the use of dehumidifiers and air recommended amounts; increasing the amount does not offer conditioning to control humidity and to maintain a moderate more protection against pests and can be harmful to you and temperature can help reduce formaldehyde emissions. your clients, co-workers and employees. Pesticides Ventilate the area well after pesticide use. Routine treatment with pesticides is commonplace, and Mix or dilute pesticides outdoors or in a well-ventilated area and sometimes mandatory in commercial buildings. Products used only in the amounts that will be immediately needed. If possible, most often are insecticides and disinfectants (see “Further take plants outside when applying pesticides to them.

INFORMED Page 31 Use non-chemical methods of pest control when factors; be inexpensive; and not have an unpleasant odor. possible. Disinfectants commonly used in the salon can include quaternary Since pesticides can be found far from the site of their original ammonium compounds and phenols. Alcohol, bleach and formalin application, it is prudent to reduce the use of chemical pesticides are no longer recommended as disinfectants in the salon. They outdoors as well as indoors. Depending on the site and pest to be have been replaced with newer, more effective formulations. controlled, one or more of the following steps can be effective: use of biological pesticides, such as Bacillus thuringiensis, for the control of gypsy moths; selection of disease-resistant plants; Wet Disinfection and frequent washing of indoor plants. Termite damage can be Standard reduced or prevented by making certain that wooden building All tools and implements materials do not come into direct contact with the soil. must be disinfected by complete If you decide to use a pest control company, immersion in an EPA-registered disinfectant that is effective against HIV-1 choose one carefully. and human hepatitis B virus Ask for an inspection of your workplace and get a written control program for evaluation before you sign a contract. or is The control program should list specific names of pests to be A tuberculocidal that is mixed controlled and chemicals to be used; it should also reflect any of and used according to the your safety concerns. Insist on a proven record of competence manufacturer’s directions. and customer satisfaction. Dispose of unwanted pesticides safely. If you have unused or partially used pesticide containers you Quaternary ammonium compounds (quats) are surface-active want to get rid of, dispose of them according to the directions on agents with the property of producing bacteriostasis in very high the label or on special hazardous waste collection days. If there dilution. Bacteriostasis means that the substance will inhibit are no such collection days in your community, work with others bacterial growth but does not kill the bacteria. Consequently, to organize them. removal of quats can result in a resurgence of bacterial growth; however, prolonged application can often result in bacterial National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC) death. That is one reason why it is so important to keep EPA sponsors the NPIC 800-858-PEST (800-858-7378) to answer implements completely immersed in a disinfectant after using your questions about pesticides and to provide selected EPA on a patron, for instance. In the past, quats did not satisfy all publications on pesticides. Visit their website at http://npic.orst. requirements as a hospital-grade disinfectant, but now quats are edu/, or read their brochure at http://npic.orst.edu/brochure.pdf. often mixed with other agents to increase their effectiveness. Phenol is a corrosive poisonous crystalline acidic compound Further discussion on salon disinfection present in the tars of coal and wood that in dilate solution is Any item that is used on a client must be disinfected or discarded. used as a disinfectant, such as in Lysol. With current standards Disinfection must be done with a hospital-grade disinfectant, of hospital-grade disinfectants, however, Lysol is not the best effective against bacteria, viruses, fungi, and pseudomonas. If choice for disinfecting tools and implements. It is considered a implements accidentally come in contact with blood or body fluids, household-level disinfectant and is not designed for professional an EPA-registered tuberculocidal (kills tuberculosis) disinfectant use. Lysol can be used to disinfect doorknobs, telephones, or an EPA-registered disinfectant effective against HIV and HBV bathrooms, floors and other non-porous surfaces. (hepatitis B) is required. After mixing, the disinfectant should have a pH between 2.6 and 3.2 or between 10 and 11. This will provide Many people may be concerned with the use of disinfectants the most hostile environment possible to the microorganisms, and their impact on the environment. Unfortunately, “green” without harming the user and the items being disinfected. products that are promoted as alternative disinfectants, such as borax, vinegar, ammonia and baking soda, are much less Disinfectants must be approved by the Environmental Protection effective than commercially produced disinfectants. The Agency (EPA) and each state. Also, federal law requires cosmetologist’s concern is protecting the health and safety of the manufacturers to supply salons with material safety data sheets public, and so it is imperative that the correct disinfectants are (MSDS), which will include important information such as used to prevent transmission of disease. EPA product registration directions for proper use. All distributors will provide MSDS on should be the basis for purchase and use. any item in the salon upon request. Sodium hypochlorite (bleach) is not considered a viable option Disinfection is only done on nonporous substances such as tools, for salon disinfection anymore. It is unstable; it has the proper implements and countertops. Disinfection is never performed on disinfectant qualities when mixed, but when used several hours the skin as it can harm the skin. later, may not. It has been replaced by more advanced and more Disinfection is chemically destroying bacteria or reducing the reliable disinfectants. It is not recognized by the EPA. frequency of microbes. The ideal disinfectant should be fast Alcohol has been used in the past as a disinfectant and an acting; be effective against all types of infectious agents; disinfect antiseptic, however, it is not the best choice either. Alcohol has without damaging or discoloring the material; be easy to prepare; been replaced with better technology. Some drawbacks to the use be stable when exposed to light, heat, or other environmental of alcohol include its drying effect on skin, leading to cracking;

Page 32 INFORMED it evaporates quickly, making it effective for only a few seconds; or removal by a professional is needed. Before you begin any it is absorbed by the skin; and it is flammable. If hospital-grade remodel of the salon or workplace, find out whether asbestos disinfectants are required by state law, it is not permitted. materials are present. Items not recommended for disinfection in a salon include When you need to remove or clean up asbestos, ultrasonic baths used with soap and water, formalin, and UV sanitizers. Ultrasonic baths create bubbles that penetrate into use a professionally trained contractor. the cracks and crevices of implements. They clean very well; Select a contractor only after careful discussion of the problems however, they do not disinfect the implements unless used with a in your workplace and the steps the contractor will take to hospital-grade disinfectant. clean up or remove them. Consider the option of sealing off the materials instead of removing them. Formalin was used in the past as a disinfectant and to create a dry cabinet sanitizer. It has been discovered to cause cancer and Call EPA’s TSCA assistance line at 202-554-1404 to find out other health problems, and so its use has been discontinued. whether your state has a training and certification program for Clean and disinfected implements are now simply stored in a asbestos removal contractors and for information on EPA’s dry, covered container until needed. asbestos programs (www.epa.gov/asbestos). Ultraviolet (UV) sanitizers are designed for storage of cleaned and Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA) Hotline. Sponsored disinfected implements only. They do not disinfect implements. by the Office of Pollution Prevention and Toxics, the TSCA Hotline provides technical assistance and information about Asbestos asbestos programs implemented under TSCA, which include the Asbestos is a mineral fiber that has been used commonly in a Asbestos School Hazard Abatement Act (ASHAA), the Asbestos variety of building construction materials for insulation and as a fire Hazard Emergency Response Act (AHERA), and the Asbestos retardant. EPA and CPSC have banned several asbestos products. School Hazard Abatement Reauthorization Act (ASHARA). The Manufacturers have also voluntarily limited uses of asbestos. hotline provides copies of TSCA information, such as Federal Today, asbestos is most commonly found in older buildings, in Register notices and support documents, to requesters through its pipe and furnace insulation materials, asbestos shingles, millboard, clearinghouse function. textured paints and other coating materials, and floor tiles. E-mail address: [email protected] Elevated concentrations of airborne asbestos can occur after Hours of Service: 8:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. (EST) M - F asbestos-containing materials are disturbed by cutting, sanding or Telephone: 202-554-1404 during removal. Improper attempts to remove these materials can TDD: 202-554-0551 release asbestos fibers into the air, increasing asbestos levels and Fax: 202-554-5603 (Fax available 24 hours a day) endangering those working in the contaminated environment. Lead (Pb) Health effects of asbestos Lead has long been recognized as a harmful environmental pollutant. In late 1991, the secretary of the Department of The most dangerous asbestos fibers are too small to be visible. Health and Human Services called lead the “number one After they are inhaled, they can remain and accumulate in the environmental threat to the health of children in the United lungs. Asbestos can cause lung cancer, mesothelioma (a cancer States.” There are many ways in which humans are exposed of the chest and abdominal linings), and asbestosis (irreversible to lead: through air, drinking water, food, contaminated soil, lung scarring that can be fatal). Symptoms of these diseases deteriorating paint, and dust. Airborne lead enters the body do not show up until many years after exposure began. Most when an individual breathes or swallows lead particles or dust people with asbestos-related diseases were exposed to elevated once it has settled. Before it was known how harmful lead could concentrations on the job. be, it was used in paint, gasoline, water pipes, and many other Reducing exposure to asbestos products. See also, EPA’s website at www.epa.gov/lead. Old lead-based paint is the most significant source of lead exposure If you think your workplace may have asbestos, in the U.S. today. Harmful exposures to lead can be created when don’t panic! lead-based paint is improperly removed from surfaces by dry Usually it is best to leave asbestos material that is in good scraping, sanding, or open-flame burning. High concentrations of condition alone. Generally, material in good condition will airborne lead particles can also result from lead dust from outdoor not release asbestos fiber. There is no danger unless fibers are sources, including contaminated soil tracked inside. released and inhaled into the lungs. Health effects of exposure to lead Do not cut, rip, or sand asbestos-containing Lead affects practically all systems within the body. At high materials. levels it can cause convulsions, coma, and even death. Lower Leave undamaged materials alone and, to the extent possible, levels of lead can adversely affect the brain, central nervous prevent them from being damaged, disturbed, or touched. system, blood cells, and kidneys. Periodically inspect for damage or deterioration. Check with The effects of lead exposure on fetuses and young children local health, environmental, or other appropriate officials to find can be severe. They include delays in physical and mental out about proper handling and disposal procedures. development, lower IQ levels, shortened attention spans, and If asbestos material is more than slightly damaged, or if you are increased behavioral problems. Fetuses, infants, and children going to make changes in your salon that might disturb it, repair are more vulnerable to lead exposure than adults because lead

INFORMED Page 33 is more easily absorbed into growing bodies, and the tissues Drinking Water, for more information about what you can do if of small children are more sensitive to the damaging effects of you have lead in your drinking water. Call EPA’s Safe Drinking lead. Children may have higher exposures because they are more Water Hotline (800-426-4791) for more information. likely to get lead dust on their hands and then put their fingers or You can get a brochure and more information by calling the other lead-contaminated objects into their mouths. It is critical National Lead Information Center, 800-424-LEAD (800-424- that salon professionals understand these threats to protect 5323) or see EPA’s Lead in Paint, Dust and Soil page at www. the health and well-being of pregnant clients and clients with epa.gov/lead/pubs/leadinfo.htm See also, EPA’s website at www. children accompanying them to the salon. epa.gov/lead. Children should be tested for lead exposure. To find out where to do this, call your doctor or local health clinic. For more What about carpet? information on health effects, get a copy of the Centers for In recent years, a number of consumers have associated a variety Disease Control’s booklet Preventing Lead Poisoning in Young of symptoms with the installation of new carpet. Scientists have Children (October 1991). As this is such an important health not been able to determine whether the chemicals emitted by concern for youngsters, it would be very helpful to make this new carpets are responsible. If new carpet is being installed in material available to your client base. your salon, you may wish to take the following steps (or stress their importance to your employer): Ways to reduce exposure to lead ●● Talk to your carpet retailer. Ask for information on emissions from carpet. Keep areas where children wait and play as dust- ●● Ask the retailer to unroll and air out the carpet in a well- free and clean as possible. ventilated area before installation. If your salon is likely to pose a threat of lead contact, mop floors ●● Ask for low-emitting adhesives if adhesives are needed. and wipe window ledges with a solution of powdered automatic ●● Consider leaving the premises during and immediately after dishwasher detergent in warm water. (Dishwasher detergents are carpet installation. You may wish to schedule the installation recommended because of their high content of phosphate.) Most when most family members or office workers are out. multi purpose cleaners will not remove lead in ordinary dust. ●● Be sure the retailer requires the installer to follow the Carpet Wash any toys that are kept in the salon to entertain children and Rug Institute’s installation guidelines. regularly. ●● Open doors and windows. Increasing the amount of fresh air in the salon will reduce exposure to most chemicals released Reduce the risk from lead-based paint. from carpet. During and after installation, use window Most commercial buildings built before 1960 contain heavily fans, room air conditioners, or other mechanical ventilation leaded paint. This paint could be on window frames, walls, the equipment you may have installed to exhaust fumes to the outside of buildings, or other surfaces. Do not burn painted wood outdoors. Keep them running for 48 to 72 hours after the because it may contain lead. new carpet is installed. ●● Contact your carpet retailer if objectionable odors persist. Leave lead-based paint undisturbed if it is in Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper carpet good condition – do not sand or burn off paint maintenance. that may contain lead. Do you suspect your salon has an indoor air Lead paint in good condition is usually not a problem except in places where painted surfaces rub against each other and create problem? dust (for example, opening a window). Indoor air quality problems are not limited to salons where fumes are often prevalent. In fact, many commercial and office buildings Do not remove lead paint yourself. have significant air pollution sources. Some of these buildings Individuals have been poisoned by scraping or sanding lead paint may be inadequately ventilated. For example, mechanical because these activities generate large amounts of lead dust. ventilation systems may not be designed or operated to provide Consult your state health or housing department for suggestions adequate amounts of outdoor air. Finally, people generally have on which private laboratories or public agencies may be able very little control over the indoor environment in spaces within to help test your salon for lead in paint. Commercial test kits a commercial or office structure. As a result, there has been an cannot detect small amounts of lead under some conditions. Hire increase in the incidence of reported health problems. a person with special training for correcting lead paint problems to remove lead-based paint. Workers and clients, especially Health effects children and pregnant women, should not be allowed in the salon A number of well-identified illnesses, such as Legionnaires’ until all work is finished and cleanup is done. disease, asthma, hypersensitivity pneumonitis, and humidifier fever, have been directly traced to specific building problems. Find out about lead in drinking water. These are called building-related illnesses. Most of these Most well and city water does not usually contain lead. Water diseases can be treated, but some pose serious risks. usually picks up lead inside the home from household plumbing Sometimes, however, building occupants experience symptoms that is made with lead materials. The only way to know if that do not fit the pattern of any particular illness and are there is lead in drinking water is to have it tested. Contact the difficult to trace to any specific source. This phenomenon has local health department or water supplier to find out how to get been labeled sick building syndrome. People may complain of the water tested. Send for the EPA pamphlet, Lead and Your

Page 34 INFORMED one or more of the following symptoms: dry or burning mucous building. Carbon monoxide and other components of automobile membranes in the nose, eyes, and throat; sneezing; stuffy or exhaust can be drawn from underground parking garages through runny nose; fatigue or lethargy; headache; dizziness; nausea; stairwells and elevator shafts into office, rental or retail spaces. and irritability and forgetfulness. Poor lighting, noise, vibration, In addition, buildings originally designed for one purpose thermal discomfort, and psychological stress may also cause or may end up being converted to use as office or rental space. If contribute to these symptoms. not properly modified during building renovations, the room There is no single manner in which these health problems appear. partitions and ventilation system can contribute to indoor air In some cases, problems begin as workers enter their workspace quality problems by restricting air recirculation or by providing and diminish as they leave; other times, symptoms continue until an inadequate supply of outdoor air. the illness is treated. Sometimes there are outbreaks of illness among many workers in a single building; in other cases, health What to do if you suspect a problem symptoms show up only in individual workers. If you or others at your salon are experiencing health or comfort problems that you suspect may be caused by indoor air pollution, In the opinion of some World Health Organization experts, up you can do the following: to 30 percent of new or remodeled commercial buildings may ●● Talk with other employees and your supervisor to see if the have unusually high rates of health and comfort complaints from problems are being experienced by others and urge that a occupants that may be related to indoor air quality. record of reported health complaints be kept by management What causes problems? if one has not already been established. Three major reasons for poor indoor air quality in commercial ●● Talk with your own physician and report your problems to buildings are the presence of indoor air pollution sources; poorly the company physician, nurse, or health and safety officer. designed, maintained, or operated ventilation systems; and uses ●● Call your state or local health department (see our Where of the building that were unanticipated or poorly planned for You Live pages at www.epa.gov/iaq/whereyoulive.html) or when the building was designed or renovated. air pollution control agency to talk over the symptoms and possible causes. Sources of office air pollution ●● You can encourage building management to follow The most important factor influencing indoor air quality is guidance in EPA’s IAQ Building Education and Assessment the presence of pollutant sources. Commonly found office Model (I-BEAM). I-BEAM updates and expands EPA’s pollutants and their sources include asbestos from insulating existing building air quality guidance and is designed to and fire-retardant building supplies; formaldehyde from pressed be comprehensive state-of-the-art guidance for managing wood products; other organics from building materials, carpet, IAQ in commercial buildings. This guidance was designed and other office furnishings, cleaning materials and activities, to be used by building professionals and others interested restroom air fresheners, paints, adhesives, copying machines, in indoor air quality in commercial buildings. I-BEAM and photography and print shops; biological contaminants from contains text, animation/visual, and interactive/calculation dirty ventilation systems or water-damaged walls, ceilings, and components that can be used to perform a number of diverse carpets; and pesticides from pest management practices. tasks. You can also encourage building management to follow guidance in EPA and NIOSH’s Building Air Quality: Ventilation systems A Guide for Building Owners and Facility Managers. Mechanical ventilation systems in large buildings are designed ●● Frequently, indoor air quality problems in large commercial and operated not only to heat and cool the air, but also to draw in buildings cannot be effectively identified or remedied and circulate outdoor air. If they are poorly designed, operated, without a comprehensive building investigation. These or maintained, however, ventilation systems can contribute to investigations may start with written questionnaires and indoor air problems in several ways. telephone consultations in which building investigators assess the history of occupant symptoms and building operation For example, problems arise when, in an effort to save energy, procedures. In some cases, these inquiries may quickly ventilation systems are not used to bring in adequate amounts of uncover the problem and on-site visits are unnecessary. outdoor air. Inadequate ventilation also occurs if the air supply ●● More often, however, investigators will need to come to the and return vents within each room are blocked or placed in such building to conduct personal interviews with occupants, to a way that outdoor air does not actually reach the breathing zone look for possible sources of the problems, and to inspect of building occupants. Improperly located outdoor air intake vents the design and operation of the ventilation system and can also bring in air contaminated with automobile and truck other building features. Because taking measurements exhaust, boiler emissions, fumes from dumpsters, or air vented of pollutants at the very low levels often found in office from restrooms. Finally, ventilation systems can be a source of buildings is expensive and may not yield information indoor pollution themselves by spreading biological contaminants readily useful in identifying problem sources, investigators that have multiplied in cooling towers, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, may not take many measurements. The process of solving air conditioners, or the inside surfaces of ventilation duct work. indoor air quality problems that result in health and comfort complaints can be a slow one, involving several trial Use of the building solutions before successful remedial actions are identified. Indoor air pollutants can be circulated from portions of the ●● If a professional company is hired to conduct a building building used for specialized purposes, such as restaurants, investigation, select a company on the basis of its print shops, and dry-cleaning stores, into other areas in the same

INFORMED Page 35 experience in identifying and solving indoor air quality Health effects: At low concentrations, fatigue in healthy problems in non-industrial buildings. people and chest pain in people with heart disease. At higher ●● Work with others to establish a smoking policy concentrations, impaired vision and coordination; headaches; that eliminates involuntary nonsmoker exposure to dizziness; confusion; nausea. Can cause flu-like symptoms environmental tobacco smoke. that clear up after leaving affected area. Fatal at very high ●● Call the National Institute for Occupational Safety and concentrations. Health (NIOSH) for information on obtaining a health Steps to reduce exposure: hazard evaluation of your office (800-35NIOSH), or contact ●● Keep gas appliances properly adjusted. the Occupational Safety and Health Administration, 202- ●● Consider purchasing a vented space heater when replacing 219-8151. an unvented one. Reference guide to major indoor air ●● Use proper fuel in kerosene space heaters. ●● Have a trained professional inspect, clean, and tune-up pollutants central heating system (furnaces and flues) annually. Repair The pollutants listed in this guide have been shown to cause any leaks promptly. the health effects mentioned. However, it is not necessarily true that the effects noted occur at the pollutant concentration Nitrogen dioxide (NO2) levels typically found in a work environment. In many cases, Sources: Kerosene heaters, unvented gas heaters. our understanding of the pollutants and their health effects is too Health effects: Eye, nose, and throat irritation. May cause limited to determine the levels at which the listed effects could impaired lung function and increased respiratory infections in occur. young children. Radon (Rn) Steps to reduce exposure: Sources: Earth and rock beneath building; well water; building See steps under carbon monoxide. materials. Organic gases Health effects: No immediate symptoms. Estimated to Sources: Common products, including paints, paint strippers contribute to between 7,000 and 30,000 lung cancer deaths each and other solvents; wood preservatives; aerosol sprays; cleansers year. Smokers are at higher risk of developing radon-induced and disinfectants; air fresheners; stored fuels; dry-cleaned lung cancer. clothing. Steps to reduce exposure: Health effects: Eye, nose, and throat irritation; headaches, loss ●● Test your workplace for radon; it’s easy and inexpensive. of coordination, nausea; damage to liver, kidney, and central ●● Seek necessary repairs if your radon level is 4 picocuries per nervous system. Some organics can cause cancer in animals; liter (pCi/L) or higher. some are suspected or known to cause cancer in humans. ●● Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many Steps to reduce exposure: cases may be reduced. ●● Use above products according to manufacturer’s directions. ●● If you want more information on radon, contact your state ●● Make sure you provide plenty of fresh air when using these radon office, or call 800-SOS-RADON. products. Biologicals ●● Throw away unused or little-used containers safely; buy in Sources: Wet or moist walls, ceilings, carpets, and furniture; quantities that you will use soon. poorly maintained humidifiers, dehumidifiers, and air ●● Keep out of reach of children. conditioners. ●● Never mix these products (especially cleaning products) unless directed on the label. Health effects: Eye, nose, and throat irritation; shortness of breath; dizziness; lethargy; fever; digestive problems. Can cause Respirable particles asthma; humidifier fever; influenza and other infectious diseases. Sources: Furnaces, kerosene heaters. Steps to reduce exposure: Health effects: Eye, nose, and throat irritation; respiratory ●● Install and use fans vented to outdoors in break areas and infections and bronchitis; lung cancer. bathrooms. Steps to reduce exposure: ●● Vent clothes dryers to outdoors. ●● Vent all furnaces to outdoors; keep doors open when using ●● Clean cool mist and ultrasonic humidifiers in accordance with unvented space heaters. manufacturer’s instructions and refill with clean water daily. ●● Have a trained professional inspect, clean, and tune-up ●● Empty water trays in air conditioners, dehumidifiers, and central heating system (furnace and flues) annually. Repair refrigerators frequently. any leaks promptly. ●● Clean and dry or remove water-damaged carpets. ●● Change filters on central heating and cooling systems and Carbon monoxide (CO) air cleaners according to manufacturer’s directions. Sources: Unvented kerosene and gas space heaters; leaking Formaldehyde furnaces; back-drafting from furnaces, gas water heaters and Sources: Pressed wood products (hardwood plywood wall fireplaces. Automobile exhaust from attached garages. paneling, particleboard, fiberboard) and furniture made with

Page 36 INFORMED these pressed wood products. Urea-formaldehyde foam Steps to reduce exposure: insulation (UFFI). Combustion sources. Durable press drapes, ●● Keep areas where children wait and play as dust-free and other textiles, and glues. clean as possible. Health effects: Eye, nose, and throat irritation; wheezing and ●● Leave lead-based paint undisturbed if it is in good condition; coughing; fatigue; skin rash; severe allergic reactions. May do not sand or burn off paint that may contain lead. cause cancer. May also cause other effects listed under “organic ●● Do not remove lead paint yourself. gases.” ●● Do not bring lead dust into the work area. Steps to reduce exposure: Where to go for additional information on ●● Use “exterior-grade” pressed wood products (lower-emitting indoor air quality because they contain phenol resins, not urea resins). Federal information sources for indoor air quality ●● Use air conditioning and dehumidifiers to maintain Federal agencies with indoor air quality information may be moderate temperature and reduce humidity levels. contacted as follows: ●● Increase ventilation, particularly after bringing new sources of formaldehyde into the work area. U. S. Environmental Protection Agency (U.S. EPA) EPA supports the following hotlines to best serve consumers Pesticides with radon-related questions and concerns. Sources: Products used to kill household pests (insecticides, ●● 1-800-SOS-RADON (767-7236)* Purchase radon test kits termiticides, and disinfectants). by phone. ●● 1-800-55RADON (557-2366)* Get live help for your radon Health effects: Irritation to eye, nose, and throat; damage to questions. central nervous system and kidney; increased risk of cancer. ●● 1-800-644-6999* Radon Fit-It Hotline. For general Steps to reduce exposure: information on fixing or reducing radon levels. ●● Use strictly according to manufacturer’s directions. * Operated by Kansas State University in partnership with EPA ●● Mix or dilute outdoors. ●● 1-800-426-4791 Safe Drinking Water Hotline. For general ●● Apply only in recommended quantities. information on drinking water, radon in water, testing and ●● Increase ventilation when using indoors. Take plants treatment, and standards for radon drinking water. Operated outdoors when applying pesticides to them. under a contract with EPA. ●● Use non-chemical methods of pest control where possible. ●● Kansas State University (KSU) ●● If you use a pest control company, select it carefully. Website: www.sosradon.org ●● Do not store unneeded pesticides inside; dispose of Phone: 785-532-6026 unwanted containers safely. Fax: 785-532-6952 ●● Keep indoor spaces clean, dry, and well ventilated to avoid E-mail: [email protected] pest and odor problems. As a partner in the Midwest Universities Radon Consortium, Asbestos conducts National Radon Program Services, including the National Radon Poster Contest, National Radon hotlines, Sources: Deteriorating, damaged, or disturbed insulation, and referrals to state radon programs, radon test kit coupons, fireproofing, acoustical materials, and floor tiles. radon mitigation promotion and other outreach activities. Health Effects: No immediate symptoms, but long-term risk of National Radon Hotline chest and abdominal cancers and lung diseases. Smokers are at 800-767-RADON (800-767-7236) higher risk of developing asbestos-induced lung cancer. Information recording operates 24 hours a day. Steps to reduce exposure: National Lead Information Center ●● It is best to leave undamaged asbestos material alone if it is 1-800-424-LEAD (800-424-5323) not likely to be disturbed. Operates 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Callers may order ●● Use trained and qualified contractors for control measures an information package or speak to an information specialist. that may disturb asbestos and for cleanup. Operates Monday to Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. EST. ●● Follow proper procedures in replacing wood stove door gaskets that may contain asbestos. National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC) EPA sponsors the NPIC 800-858-PEST (800-858-7378) to Lead (Pb) answer your questions about pesticides and to provide selected Sources: Lead-based paint, contaminated soil, dust, and drinking EPA publications on pesticides. See its website at http://npic. water. orst.edu/or, read a brochure at http://npic.orst.edu/brochure.pdf. Operates Monday to Friday from 6:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. PST. Health effects: Lead affects practically all systems within the Provides information about pesticides to the general public and body. Lead at high levels (lead levels at or above 80 micrograms the medical, veterinary, and professional communities. Medical per deciliter (80 ug/dl) of blood) can cause convulsions, coma, and government personnel may call 800-858-7377. and even death. Lower levels of lead can cause adverse health effects on the central nervous system, kidney, and blood cells. RCRA/Superfund Hotline Blood lead levels as low as 10 ug/dl can impair mental and National toll-free number: 800-424-9346 physical development. In Washington, DC area: 703-412-9810

INFORMED Page 37 Operates Monday to Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. EST. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) Provides information on regulations under both the Resources www.osha.gov Conservation and Recovery Act (including solid and hazardous Office of Information and Consumer Affairs waste issues) and the Superfund law. Room N-3647, 200 Constitution Avenue, NW Safe Drinking Water Hotline Washington, DC 20210 800-426-4791 202-219-8151 Operates Monday to Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. EST. State and local organizations Provides information on regulations under the Safe Drinking Your questions or concerns about indoor air problems can Water Act, lead and radon in drinking water, filter information, frequently be answered by the government agencies in your and a list of state drinking water offices. state or local government. Responsibilities for indoor air quality TSCA Assistance Information Service issues are usually divided among many different agencies. 202-554-1404 Calling or writing the agencies responsible for health or air Operates Monday to Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. EST. quality control is the best way to start getting information from Provides information on regulations under the Toxic Substances your state or local government. EPA maintains a list of state Control Act and on EPA’s asbestos program. agency contacts at www.epa.gov/iaq/whereyoulive.html; just U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) click on your state. www.cpsc.gov Washington, DC 20207-0001 Other organizations Product Safety Hotline: 800-638-CPSC (800-638-2772) The following organizations have information specifically Teletypewriter for the hearing impaired (outside Maryland): discussed in this booklet. For more related links, see www.epa. 800-638-8270; gov/iaq/moreinfo.html. Maryland only: 800-492-8104. American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air- Recorded information is available 24 hours a day when calling Conditioning (ASHRAE) from a touch-tone phone. Operators are on duty Monday to 1791 Tullie Circle NE Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. EST to take complaints Atlanta, GA 30329 about unsafe consumer products. www.ashrae.org U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development World Health Organization (WHO) www.hud.gov Publications Center Office of Energy and the Environment, Washington, DC 20410 49 Sheridan Avenue HUD USER national toll-free number: 800-245-2691 Albany, NY 12210 In Washington, DC area: 301-251-5154 www.who.org U.S. Department of Energy Your Local American Lung Association (ALA) www.doe.gov National ALA Headquarters 1740 Broadway Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy New York, NY 10019 www.eere.energy.gov/ 800-LUNG-USA (800-586-4872) U.S. Public Health Service www.lungusa.org Division of Federal Occupational Health Office of Environmental Hygiene, Region III, Room 1310 Other resources 3535 Market St., Philadelphia, PA 19104 ●● Building Air Quality: A Guide for Building Owners and 215-596-1888; fax: 215-596-5024 Facility Managers – Appendix F: Glossary and Acronyms Provides indoor air quality consultative services to federal (PDF) agency managers. ●● IAQ publications Centers for Disease Control and Prevention ●● Media/public service announcements www.cdc.gov ●● The EPA has developed a wide variety of media materials, including public service announcements (PSAs) and video Lead Poisoning Prevention Branch news releases (VNRs). Centers for Disease Control and Prevention 4770 Buford Highway, NE (F-42) Glossary of terms. Atlanta, GA 30341-3724 Acid aerosol: Acidic liquid or solid particles that are small 800-488-7330 enough to become airborne. High concentrations of acid aerosols Office on Smoking and Health can be irritating to the lungs and have been associated with some Centers for Disease Control and Prevention respiratory diseases, such as asthma. 4770 Buford Highway, NE (K-50) Animal dander: Tiny scales of animal skin. Atlanta, GA 30341-3724 404-488-5701 Allergen: A substance capable of causing an allergic reaction because of an individual’s sensitivity to that substance.

Page 38 INFORMED Allergic rhinitis: Inflammation of the mucous membranes in the Indoor Air Quality guide nose that is caused by an allergic reaction. Building-related illness: A discrete, identifiable disease or Self-Assessment illness that can be traced to a specific pollutant or source within a Select the best answer for each question and mark your answers building. (Contrast with “Sick building syndrome”). on the Self-Assessment Answer Sheet on page 89 or complete your test online at www.nccosmo.cme.edu. Chemical sensitization: Evidence suggests that some people may develop health problems characterized by effects such as dizziness, eye and throat irritation, chest tightness, and nasal 16. A growing body of scientific evidence indicates that: congestion that appear whenever they are exposed to certain a. Air outside of buildings is more seriously polluted than chemicals. People may react to even trace amounts of chemicals air inside. to which they have become “sensitized.” b. Air inside buildings is more seriously polluted that air Environmental tobacco smoke (ETS): Mixture of smoke from outside. the burning end of a cigarette, pipe, or cigar and smoke exhaled c. Air pollution exists at the same levels both inside and by the smoker (also secondhand smoke or passive smoking). See outside. www.epa.gov/smokefree d. Air inside buildings is significantly less polluted than air outside. Fungi: Any of a group of parasitic lower plants that lack chlorophyll, including molds and mildews. (see www.epa.gov/ 17. To be most effective, an air cleaner needs: mold) a. A very efficient collector with a high air-circulation Humidifier fever: A respiratory illness caused by exposure rate. to toxins from microorganisms found in wet or moist areas in b. A very efficient collector with a low air-circulation rate. humidifiers and air conditioners. Also called air conditioner or c. A less efficient collector with a low air circulation rate. ventilation fever. d. A less efficient collector with a high air-circulation rate. Hypersensitivity pneumonitis: A group of respiratory diseases that cause inflammation of the lung (specifically granulomatous 18. The predominant health effect associated with exposure cells). Most forms of hypersensitivity pneumonitis are caused by to elevated levels of radon is: the inhalation of organic dusts, including molds. a. Emphysema. Organic compounds: Chemicals that contain carbon. Volatile b. Migraine headaches. organic compounds vaporize at room temperature and pressure. c. Arthritis. They are found in many indoor sources, including many d. Lung cancer. common household products and building materials. Picocurie (pCi): A unit for measuring radioactivity, often 19. In 1991, the Secretary of the Department of Health expressed as picocuries per liter (pCi/L) of air. and Human Services referred to which of the following chemical contaminants as the “number one Pressed wood products: A group of materials used in building environmental threat to the health of children in the and furniture construction that are made from wood veneers, United States?” particles, or fibers bonded together with an adhesive under heat and pressure. a. Radon. b. Lead. Radon (Rn) and radon decay products: Radon is a radioactive c. Second-hand smoke. gas formed in the decay of uranium. The radon decay products d. Pesticides. (also called radon daughters or progeny) can be breathed into the lung where they continue to release radiation as they further 20. It is encouraged that you seek necessary repairs in your decay. workplace if the radon level is ______picocuries per Sick building syndrome: Term that refers to a set of symptoms liter (pCi/L) or higher. that affect some number of building occupants during the time a. 1. they spend in the building and diminish or go away during b. 2. periods when they leave the building. Cannot be traced to c. 3. specific pollutants or sources within the building. (Contrast with d. 4. “building-related illness”). Ventilation rate: The rate at which indoor air enters and leaves a building. Expressed in one of two ways: the number of changes of outdoor air per unit of time (air changes per hour, or “ach”) or the rate at which a volume of outdoor air enters per unit of time (cubic feet per minute, or “cfm”). References http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/insidest.html. Last updated on Tuesday, November 24, 2009.

INFORMED Page 39 Chapter 5 Hair Color Principles (4 CE Hours)

Learning objectives pH `` Identify the three primary colors and the use of the color wheel. It is necessary to look at pH whenever discussing products that `` Describe how to produce secondary colors using primary are placed on the hair, skin or nails. pH stands for potential colors. hydrogen. An acid is a substance that donates one or more `` Describe the proper uses of hair dyes. hydrogen (H+) ions, while a base or alkaline solution is a `` Discuss the importance of client consultation prior to hair substance that accepts one or more hydrogen (H+) ions. coloring. In a sample of pure water, a small portion of H O molecules ` 2 ` Discuss the various types of hair color and tints. undergoes disassociation to product H+ ions and OH- (hydroxide) ` ` Identify the use of fillers. ions. When the concentrations of H+ and OH- ions are equal to ` ` Discuss various hair coloring techniques. each other, as in pure water, the pH value is 7. In acidic solutions, pH values fall below 7, while in basic (or alkaline) solutions, they Introduction go above 7. To best serve clients, it is important to know not only how to The pH of hair, skin and nails is 4.5 to 5.5. The pH scale ranges do their hair, but why the products and chemicals work the way from 0-14. Each step on the pH scale is 10 times stronger than that they do. To understand why products work a certain way, the previous step. A pH of 6 is ten times stronger than a pH of it is important to understand the histology (study of the minute 5. A pH of 7 (pure water) is a hundred times stronger than a pH structures) of the hair, skin and nails. In the Chemical Make-up of 5 (the pH of hair). The pH of hair lightener is 10, which is section, we discussed the Parts of the Hair and pH. We continue 100,000 times stronger than the pH of the hair. with that basis to examine hair color principles. Acids contract and harden the hair. Glycerol monothioglycolate, The color wheel used in perming is acidic. Alkalis soften and swell the hair. Knowledge of the color wheel and how it works is of utmost Sodium Hydroxide (lye) used in chemical hair relaxing is an importance to the colorist. It is essential that the hairdresser alkaline substance. understand why color works the way it does and how to correct Client consultation color if it goes awry. One of the most important parts of the haircoloring process The basis for the color wheel are the three primary colors; red, is the consultation. This is where one needs to determine the yellow and blue. These colors cannot be achieved from mixing color the client desires and also the technique they want, such colors. Red and yellow are warm colors, and blue the only as a tint, cap highlight or foils. It is important to question the primary. Blue is also the strongest of the primary colors, red is client and then use reflective listening to ensure both client and the medium primary color and yellow is the weakest primary hairstylist are on the same page. Reflective listening involves the color. All colors are created from these three primary colors. hairstylist asking the client a question and then repeating back to When all three colors are mixed in equal proportions, the colors the client what he or she thought the client said. This will help create black or brown. to clarify the client’s desires. The use of haircolor swatches and Mixing two primary colors produces a secondary color. These photographs will be very helpful in this process. However, as colors are orange, green and violet. Orange is a mixture of red the professional, the haircolorist then must determine the color and yellow, green is a mixture of blue and yellow, and violet is a formula based on the client’s hair color and condition. mixture of red and blue. Haircoloring and the hair strand Tertiary colors are created by mixing one primary and one Natural hair color is created by a combination of eumelanin (brown secondary color that are adjacent to each other on the color wheel. and black color) and pheomelanin (red, ginger and golden blonde Examples include red-orange, yellow-green and blue-violet. color). All natural hair color is a combination in differing degrees of Complementary colors are colors that are located opposite each eumelanin and pheomelanin. Gray hair is the absence of melanin. other on the color wheel. Mixing these two colors will result in When using temporary color, the color simply coats the outside a neutral color. In essence, any time complementary colors are of the cuticle until the next shampoo, when it is removed. The mixed, what is really happening is that all three primary colors color uses large molecules too big to penetrate into the hair. The are being mixed. For instance, red and green are complementary action involved is a physical action of coating the hair shaft, not a colors. Green is created by mixing yellow and blue, so when you chemical action of penetrating it. Temporary haircolor uses food mix red and green you are really mixing red, yellow and blue. grade dyes approved by the FDA, called certified colors, but has Yellow and violet are complementary colors. When you mix no ammonia, so the cuticle is not opened. The client’s natural the two, you are really mixing yellow, red, and blue. The color color is retained and the temporary color rinses out. You can only wheel is a cosmetologist’s best friend. If one tints a client’s hair go darker with temporary color, and no patch test is necessary. and it turns green, the color can be neutralized with red. If the Types of temporary hair colors include mascara and colored color inadvertently turns orange, it can be fixed with blue. mousse. What are the drawbacks to temporary colors? The color may run if the client’s head gets wet in the rain, or if they sweat

Page 40 INFORMED profusely. Spray-on temporary hair color can contain metallic When using semi-permanent haircolor you can only go darker. The salts that can build-up and cause adverse chemical reactions with molecules are a medium size so they partially penetrate the cuticle, future chemical services. Also, temporary dyes are flammable. and stain the outside of the hair. The tint only lasts 6-8 shampoos, A newer product that is becoming quite popular with younger but does require a patch test. Semi-permanent color has a pH of 8.0 clients is direct dyes. Direct dyes are applied directly from the to 9.0 which causes a slight alkaline reaction to swell the hair and tube or bottle without being mixed with anything. They come in open the cuticle. A neutral or slightly acid rinse is used to stop the a wide variety of unnatural colors and are intended to wash out alkaline reaction, which closes the cuticle and traps some of the of the hair. To get a true color effect before applying the dye, color molecules inside. Semi-permanent color is less damaging than the hair should be bleached PAST the pale yellow stage. If not, permanent color. It causes a mild chemical and physical change in the yellow in the hair will contribute pigment to the direct dye, the hair. There are some concerns with semi-permanent color. Semi- creating an entirely new color. For instance, applying blue over permanent color is derived from benzidine, a known carcinogen. yellow hair will create green. After it is applied to the hair, the color can revert back to benzidine. Two colors that may be added to semi-permanent tint are Direct The longer you wait between the lightener and direct dye (as Black 38 and Direct Blue 6. They are also carcinogenic. Semi- much as 2-3 days), the easier it will be to remove the direct dye permanent tints can also contain ammonia and resorcinol. Tints when the client tires of it. This will insure that the cuticle is formulated without these two chemicals are safer for the client. closed and the direct dye will simply stain the cuticle of the hair. If however, all the lightener is not rinsed out prior to applying A product that only lasts 6-8 shampoos was sufficient when most the direct dye, the color will deposit into the cortex, making it American women went to the beauty salon and had their hair much more difficult to remove. done once a week. However, when styles changed and many women started shampooing daily or every other day, semi- Unfortunately, direct dyes generally fade very quickly. Red fades permanent color wasn’t filling their needs any more. To fill in to a washed out pink, blue fades to sea green, pink fades to orange, the gap between semi-permanent tint and permanent tint, demi- green fades to a dull green. In addition to having to frequently re- permanent (or long lasting semi-permanent) tint was developed. apply the color, the inevitable regrowth will occur in a few weeks. Many people think it is the same as semi-permanent color. The regrowth will need to be pre-lightened to the same shade of However it contains oxidation, which means it stays in the hair. blonde and then the direct dye will need to be applied again. True semi-permanent color is basically a stain because it doesn’t Another drawback to direct dyes is that these colors are bright actually penetrate the cuticle of the hair. It lies between the outer and their job is to stain. Shampoo bowls, towels, etc. will often cuticle layers and gradually comes out. suffer from these colors, and if a client is not rinsed, and rinsed, The demi-permanent haircolor (or semi-permanent polymer) and rinsed while in the salon, the after-effect at home may not process falls between the semi-permanent and permanent tinting be so pretty. Acrylic tubs and showers are vulnerable, as well as process. This type of color uses a catalyst that is a mild peroxide marble, porous tile and grout. developer with a non-ammonia alkali to swell the cuticle which To get the vibrant color to stay as long as possible, rinse the allows the tint molecules to penetrate into the cortex and deposit client’s hair with cool or warm water, rather than hot. Do not use color inside the hair shaft. A neutral or acid rinse is used to stop a clarifying shampoo. One tablespoon of the color can be mixed the swelling and allow the cuticle to close, trapping the color into the client’s shampoo bottle to keep the color looking good for molecules inside. This mild action does not lighten the melanin a longer amount of time. Again, however, the client’s bathroom and barely changes the hair structure. The color molecules are may suffer. Another trick to keep the color in longer is to rinse the very small however, so over 6-8 weeks will fade as the color hair with white vinegar. Mix equal amounts of white vinegar and molecules slip back out of the cuticle and cortex. One can only water in a cup (about half a cup of each) and rinse the direct dye go darker and a patch test is required. Demi-permanent color is from the hair with warm water until the water runs clear. Pour on used mostly to refresh the midshaft to ends of previously tinted the vinegar and water, comb it through and rinse it out. The only hair, as it is milder than permanent haircolor. direct dye shade that tends to not fade is basic raven black. With what chemicals should you be concerned in a demi- When applying the color, make sure the skin around the hairline permanent tint? The tints use mostly aniline derivative dyes, and the ears are covered with a protective cream. The hair can which require a patch test before using. The alkali used to swell then be covered with a plastic bag and then placed under a warm the cuticle is from either monoethanolylamine (MEA) or amino dryer for longer lasting results. The longer the color is allowed to methyl propanol (AMP). MEA is pH adjuster that can release remain on the hair, the longer it will last. nitrosamines which have been shown to cause cancer in animals and can cause severe eye irritation in humans. What happens when you are ready to get rid of the crazy color? You can let it grow out, cover it with a dark color, or you can There are three kinds of permanent tints, only one of which is mix up some lightener and apply until the color is removed or used in salons. They are vegetable dyes such as henna, metallic faded to the point it can be easily covered up. dyes such as those used to gradually cover gray and aniline dyes or oxidation tints which are used in the salon. What about the young blonde client who decides they want an edgy “goth” look? The best shade is a soft or natural black, not The first commercial haircolor was created in 1909 by a blue black. You might want to consider using an eyebrow tint French chemist Eugene Schuller. He used the chemical to dye their eyebrows to match. Eyebrow and eyelash tints are paraphenylenediamine to create a safe haircolor. specialized tints made out of henna, not aniline derivative tints Paraphenylenediamine is still used 100 years later in aniline which could cause blindness. derivative tints. Today, over 75 percent of women color their

INFORMED Page 41 hair, and it is a service which is growing by leaps and bounds cautions - If a client has 80 percent to 100 percent gray hair, they with the male segment of the population. will look better with a lighter colored tint. If the client only has Permanent aniline derivative haircolor, also known as oxidation 10 percent to 20 percent gray hair, applying the desired color tints, penetrating tints, synthetic organic tints and para-dyes, are onto the hair may result in a color that’s too dark. The formula used daily in the salon. How do they work? Permanent aniline will have to be adjusted so the desired color is achieved. derivative haircolor is mixed with a developer, and it remains in When tinting gray hair that is 90-100 percent gray, use the the cortex until it grows out. One can go lighter or darker with desired level of color, 70-90 percent gray, mix the tint with two permanent haircoloring and it requires a patch test. When the parts of the desired level and one part lighter level. When tinting small tint molecules are mixed with the developer, they begin 50-70 percent gray hair, mix equal parts desired level and one to expand into larger molecules that become trapped in the hair. shade lighter. When tinting 30-50 percent gray hair, mix two The color-forming ingredients, known as primary intermediates, parts lighter level and one part desired level. When tinting 10-30 consist mainly of para-phenylenediamine. When combined with percent gray hair, apply tint that is one level lighter. the oxidizer hydrogen peroxide, a color change results. If the client is much more gray in the front than in the back, it If the client desires a darker look, the cuticle must be opened may be necessary to mix two different formulations, one for the so that the tint can be deposited into the cortex of the hair. If front and one for the back. the client desires a lighter look, the tint simultaneously lightens When tinting gray hair, use 20 volume developer and process the the natural color of the hair and deposits a new color. Ammonia color for 45 minutes rather than the usual 30 minutes. Keep the acts as the alkaline chemical that opens the cuticle and it acts formulation in the natural/warm tones rather than the ash tones. as the catalyst when the tint mixes with the hydrogen peroxide. Ash tint does not cover gray hair very well. Also, the gray hair Hydrogen peroxide is used as the developer which causes the may pick up the base tones from the tint, and the client will find tint to develop and deposit color and it acts as the oxidizing themselves with violet, blue or green hair. agent which is what diffuses the natural melanin (or oxides it). The peroxide breaks the chemical bonds in hair, releasing sulfur, If the client’s gray hair is too resistant to accept the color, it may which accounts for the characteristic odor of haircolor. As the be necessary to presoften the hair. Presoftening will open the melanin is broken up, a new permanent color is deposited in the cuticle and will prepare the hair to accept color. To presoften, hair cortex. In addition, alcohols and conditioners may also be apply 20 percent hydrogen peroxide to the hair and let it on the present. The conditioners close the cuticle to seal in and protect hair for 5-10 minutes. Rinse off and then apply the desired color. the new color. These tints have the smallest molecule of all tint Lighteners (or bleach) work by opening the cuticle and then in types which makes it easier for them to penetrate the hair shaft the cortex dissolving and decolorizing the hair’s pigment. and the scalp. It causes the hair structure to be permanently Lighteners contain ammonia that is mixed with hydrogen peroxide changed and the cuticle remains slightly shifted. that affects the hair physically and chemically. Hydrogen peroxide A concern for most cosmetologists is the fading of red tints. Most is used to open the hair shaft. As soon as the developer is mixed color molecules are long and narrow. Red dyes have a diamond with the lightener, it begins to release oxygen creating the lightening shape, so they don’t color as easily and the color tends to fade. effect desired. The lightener oxidizes the melanin. It is still present Red is extremely light-sensitive. The red dye most commonly but now the melanin is colorless. Why does bleached hair tend to used in haircolor was banned in the United States in the 1970s have a pale yellow tint? The yellow is the natural color of melanin, due to a cancer scare associated with all red dyes. That’s when the protein in hair. Also, the lightener works more easily on the manufacturers in the US were forced to manipulate the shape of eumelanin than on the pheomelanin, so gold and red may remain molecules in the red dyes as a substitute for the banned dyes. in the hair. Sometimes a drabber is added to remove the gold and With what chemicals should you be concerned in permanent tint? red tones from the lightened hair. The hair can be lightened all over, Permanent tints contain para-phenylenediamines which are derived using on-the-scalp lighteners, or can be highlighted. Highlighting from coal tar. The darker the color, the more phenylenediamine is done with off-the-scalp lighteners and can be accomplished with is present in the tint. This can cause skin, eye and respiratory a cap or with foils. If the desired color is not achieved with the sensitization, severe allergies, which can cause facial and neck lightener, the hair can be toned using a light aniline derivative tint. swelling, dermatitis in the form of skin rashes, and it becomes Hair can go through as many as 10 levels on its way from black mutagenic (inducing or increasing the rate of mutation) when to blonde. When the hair has been lightened, there will be mixed with peroxide. Permanent tints also can contain resorcinol. contributing pigment left in the hair. It is up to the haircolorist to decide at what level to take the hair to so that the final color Gray hair is the desired color. It is not advisable to over-lighten the hair. Gray hair can make haircoloring tricky at times. The first thing If the desired shade is a level 7 and the colorist prelightens a hairdresser should find out is if his or her client would like the client’s hair to a pale blonde, there will not be enough to completely cover their gray or if they would like it to blend contributing pigment left in the hair to achieve the desired level with the pigmented hair. Next, it is important to determine what 7. The hair will likely “grab” the base color of the tint, and the percentage of gray the client has. When looking at the client’s client will end up with an ashy, greenish color. On the other hair, first determine if there is more light colored hair or dark hand, if a colorist does not pre-lighten enough, the color also colored hair. If it seems like an equal amount of light and dark, will not be correct. For instance, if the desired color is a level 9 the client has 50 percent gray hair. If more light hair presents and the colorist only prelightens the client’s hair to a gold, there itself, the client has over 50 percent gray hair. If more dark hair will be too much contributing pigment left in the hair. The hair presents itself, the client has under 50 percent gray hair. Some will not be a beautiful level 9, but rather an orangey blond.

Page 42 INFORMED Different types of lighteners are used for different applications. and part the hair into 4 sections. Outline the four sections and Powder lighteners are generally used for off the scalp then starting at the top of a back section, apply the tint from applications, such as cap highlighting and foils. Cream lighteners scalp to ends. Proceed down to the bottom of the section, and are gentle enough to be used on the scalp, for all-over lightening. then repeat with the other three sections. Process according to manufacturer’s directions and then rinse, shampoo and condition. Fillers If using demi-permanent color as a glaze, apply only to the Sometimes it is very difficult to achieve the desired color when mid-shaft and ends to refresh color after the permanent color has a client has lightened their hair, and wishes to return to a darker been applied to the regrowth. color. There is not enough contributing pigment left in the hair for the final color to be correct. Also, the hair ends are overly porous. Permanent color In this case, it is necessary to apply a filler to equalize porosity and Permanent tint alters the natural pigment of the hair and will to deposit color to the hair before applying the desired color. remain in the hair, resulting in regrowth. There are two different First, determine the desired color. Then determine the missing application methods with permanent color; one if going darker underlying pigment. For instance, if tinting a client’s hair back with tint, and one if going lighter. to a level 5, the missing underlying pigment would be red. In When going darker with tint, do a client consultation and part the this case, the colorist would mix a level 6 red with 10 volume hair into 4 sections. Mix the tint with a developer, outline the four developer to deposit the red into the hair. The filler would be sections and then starting at the top of a back section, apply the applied very sparingly, and after 15 minutes the color would be tint from scalp to ends. Proceed down to the bottom of the section, removed with a towel. The final color would then be mixed and and then repeat with the other three sections. Process according to applied in a normal manner. manufacturer’s directions and then rinse, shampoo and condition. Procedures When going lighter with tint, it is necessary to stay away from the scalp area and ends initially. This allows the midshaft extra Temporary color time to lighten. After the midshaft has lightened the tint is Temporary color can come in different forms; liquid, mousse, applied to the scalp and ends, both of which will lighten pretty sprays, mascara and gel. The liquid and mousse forms are the rapidly. The ends will lighten because they are more porous than most commonly used. To apply a liquid temporary color, the the rest of the hair, and the scalp area will lighten more rapidly client’s hair should be shampooed and conditioned and then due to body heat and incomplete keratinization. This means that towel dried. While they are still comfortably reclined at the the keratin that makes up the hair hasn’t fully hardened and so is shampoo bowl, put on gloves and apply the color from the softer and more susceptible to chemicals. bottle, and work it in with gloved hands. Blot any excess color, Mix the tint with the appropriate developer and starting at the and while still wearing the gloves, blow-dry or roller set the hair. top of a back section, apply the tint from ½” to 1” from scalp to If using the mousse type of temporary color, shampoo, condition, ½” to 1” from ends. Proceed down to the bottom of the section, and towel dry the client’s hair. At the station, put on gloves and and then repeat with the other three sections. Process until the apply the mousse. While still wearing the gloves, blow-dry or hair has developed almost to the desired color. Mix fresh tint, roller set the hair. and starting in the same section as previously, apply the tint to the scalp area and ends. Process according to manufacturer’s Temporary color sprays are used mostly at Halloween and by directions and then rinse, shampoo and condition. younger clients desiring a quick change to a crazy color. Mascara is used on the eyelashes, but it can also come in a form that can Lightener be streaked into the hair for a temporary effect. Colored gel can When going using lightener, it is necessary to stay away from be applied with a tint brush to produce fun color streaks, or can the scalp area and ends initially. This allows the midshaft extra be worked into the top of spiked hair for a different effect. time to lighten. After the midshaft has lightened the lightener is Semi-permanent color applied to the scalp and ends, both of which will lighten rapidly. The ends will lighten because they are more porous than the rest Semi-permanent color will last 6-8 shampoos and then will of the hair, and the scalp area will lighten more rapidly due to gradually fade from the hair. It is applied to the hair with a body heat and incomplete keratinization. This means that the bottle, without being mixed with a developer. Perform a patch keratin that makes up the hair hasn’t fully hardened and so is test 24-48 hours before the service. Proceed only if the results softer and more susceptible to chemicals. are negative. Do a client consultation and part the hair into 4 sections. Outline the four sections and then starting at the top of Mix the on-scalp lightener with the appropriate developer and a back section, apply the tint from scalp to ends. Proceed down starting at the bottom of a back section, apply the lightener to the bottom of the section, and then repeat with the other three from ½” to 1” from scalp to ½” to 1” from ends. Place cotton sections. Process according to manufacturer’s directions and at the scalp and pull down another section of hair and apply the then rinse, shampoo and condition. lightener. Proceed up to the top of the section, placing cotton between each strand of hair and then repeat with the other Demi-permanent color three sections. Process until the hair has developed almost to Demi-permanent color is mixed with a developer and will last the desired color. Mix fresh lightener, and starting in the same 6-8 weeks. Perform a patch test 24-48 hours before the service. section as previously, remove the cotton, and apply the lightener Proceed only if the results are negative. Do a client consultation to the scalp area and ends. Process according to manufacturer’s directions and then rinse, shampoo and condition.

INFORMED Page 43 Non-professional tint color over time. Any metallic dye must be completely removed Colors that are not used in the salon include vegetable dyes, from the hair before salon quality products are used on it. There metallic dyes and compound dyes. The vegetable dye most is also a concern over the use of the lead acetate as the developer commonly used is henna. Henna is taken from the Lawsonia in metallic dyes. The manufacturers of metallic dye products plant, which is found in Africa and Asia. It can be very orange claim the amounts of lead are so small they can’t be absorbed by a if it comes from Moroccan henna or deep red if it comes from a healthy scalp. The US Food and Drug Administration approves the Lawsonia plant in Iran The plant is harvested, dried in the sun, use of these small amounts of lead. Progressive hair dyes gradually and then crushed into a powder. Henna may be mixed with Indigo change the color of hair by reacting with the sulfur of hair keratin, which produces a blue shade, Turmeric, which has a yellow shade, and also by oxidizing on the hair surface. or Senna, which is neutral or slightly yellow. Combinations of these mixtures (or adding metallic dyes to henna) produce the General cautions different shades of henna that are available for purchase. Is it possible for haircoloring products to enter the client’s body? Yes. The scalp has the richest blood supply in the body, the largest Generally, henna is mixed with hot water into a creamy paste, hair follicles in the body, and a large number of sweat glands. put on the hair, and left for up to one hour. It can be customized for different results. Black coffee can be added to make the color When can the products enter the blood supply of the hair richer, lemon can be added to accelerate the reddening, and 10 colorist? When mixing tint, applying tint, and removing tint. It percent hydrogen peroxide can be added to lighten the effect. is imperative to use gloves to protect yourself when tinting or Those who are brunettes or have naturally black hair will get a lightening. A cosmetologist is exposed to hundreds or maybe beautiful chestnut effect. If a very vibrant red is desired, start with a even thousands of tints in a year. It is not worth it to expose your lighter colored hair. Henna will not give you good results used over health to that risk because you don’t like how gloves feel. Nitryl tints or gray hair. Henna is also very drying, so conditioners should gloves are the best choice with vinyl gloves being the next best be used on any hair treated with henna. In addition, Henna doesn’t protection. It is also important to protect your respiratory system coat the hair evenly and doesn’t react well with professional from particulates and powder when mixing henna and lightener. chemicals. Henna should only be used if you have nerves of steel How do you protect your clients? Give them a patch test 24-48 as the results can be unpredictable. It can remain in your client’s hours before the aniline derivative color service. It is possible for hair for a very long time, and can change the results of other types a client who has had their hair tinted for 30 years, even with the of haircolor. If hair already has a professional tint on it and henna is same color formula, to one day develop a reaction to the tint. If applied over the tint, the results may be quite bizarre. the patch test is positive, do not proceed with the service. Make Another vegetable dye is Chamomile, which has a gentle sure you examine the client’s scalp for abrasions, irritations or lightening effect on hair. It gives blonde and light brown hair a eruptions. If in doubt about the ability of the hair to successfully beautiful sun-kissed look. It will not work on brown or black hair, take a tint, perform a strand test. but will give red hair subtle highlights. It is a method however Always ask your client to remove glasses, necklaces and earrings. which takes patience, for it takes several applications for it to The chemicals in the color preparation you are using can stain or work. Adding two tablespoons of dried chamomile to a pint of harm them. Protect the client and their clothing with a towel under boiling water will produce the rinse. Simmer for 15 minutes, strain, the cape and one over the cape. Apply a barrier cream around the cool and use it as a final rinse that is left in the hair. To speed up entire hairline and over the ears. the process, use 1 cup of dried chamomile flowers to half a pint of If needed, test for the presence of metallic or compound dyes boiling water, simmer for 15 minutes, cool and add the juice of a by snipping off a small piece of hair and immersing in a fresh lemon plus two tablespoons of a rich conditioner. Sit in the solution of 20 drops of 28 percent ammonia and 1 ounce 20 sun and allow it to dry the hair. Then shampoo and condition. volume developer for 30 minutes. If a slight lightening action is Other tricks include boiling saffron root in water for 30 minutes, observed, it is safe to proceed; the hair does not contain metallic diluting the mixture to the strength required and then adding salts. If the hair lightens rapidly, it contains metallic salts. If the it to blonde hair for a vibrant, canary-yellow tone. Marigolds solution boils and smokes and has an unpleasant odor, the hair give blonde hair soft yellow tones and sage will darken gray contains metallic salts and the service should not be performed. hair. The effects of the herbal rinses are gentle and very subtle. Aniline derivative tints should never be used on the eyelashes or Black walnut shells and beet juice have been used to dye the hair eyebrow, as this could cause blindness. Many commercial tints and a subtle bleaching effect can be achieved with vinegar and designed just for eyebrows and eyelashes are available. They use lemon juice. Most of these formulas work by coating the hair henna and are very quick and easy to use. shaft with color. There are a few negatives. It is difficult to get consistent results with natural dyes and you run the risk of being Some kinder, gentler solutions to requested hair color services allergic to the ingredients. Also, vegetable tints, metallic tints, involve going lighter or lightening the hair is safer than going and compound dyes can cause headaches, scalp irritation, facial darker due to the increase in phenylendiamine in darker tints. Off swelling, contact dermatitis, lead poisoning and hair breakage. the scalp highlights are safer than tinting the entire head. Give gray Bottles of metallic dyes can explode. Henna can trigger asthma. hair off-the-scalp lowlights, rather than tinting the entire head. Metallic dyes are also called color restorers or progressive dyes. What about men and haircoloring? They deposit metallic salts, such as manganese, cobalt, copper, lead Men today are becoming more and more conscious of the and silver and change the color of the hair by gradually building possibilities that are open to them in the world of beauty. So up the color over time. These products are not compatible with a gentleman who desires to change his haircolor has to make professional chemicals and they develop an unnatural, dull, flat

Page 44 INFORMED a decision; go to the beauty salon or do his own hair at home. Cons Cosmetologists of course know what decision they hope the ●● Only suitable for short hair as the process can put gentleman makes, but can we offer him services comparable to unnecessary stress on mid-length to longer hair. what the drug store offers? At-home tints, such as those geared ●● Can be painful as a hook is used to pull strands of hair to the male audience offer our male clients a quick and easy through the cap. way to get rid of his gray. Five minutes with the tint on, rinse, ●● Not suitable for curly hair as it tangles as it is pulled through shampoo and rinse - it’s that easy. Plus, he doesn’t have to sit in the cap. a beauty shop full of women with haircolor on his head. How ●● Not good at getting close to the scalp when the hair is very can you compete with that? One way would be to use a tint thick. accelerator or a hair color steamer. If you can get the time down ●● Hard to place lights in nape area close to the scalp. to 6-10 minutes, and the client doesn’t have to figure out what ●● Hard to control highlight placement to get them exactly color to buy or deal with the messiness of applying tint, you’ve where you want. got him. Gentlemen desire a more manly experience, so maybe it would make sense to apply the tint right at the shampoo bowl so Foil highlights it seems more like a “treatment” than a tint application. Pros ●● Painless. Perhaps hair colorists could take a page from the ad copy for a ●● Can use many different colors. male targeted tint to understand how to market haircolor to an ●● Gets the lights closer to the scalp and the hairline. aging male population. ●● Can get the pieces of color exactly where you want them. ●● “You’ll be amazed at how something as simple as getting rid ●● Can create differing sizes of light more easily, e.g. thick of your gray hair can affect other aspects of your life. Take swooshes of color or fine strands. a look at how easy it is to turbo-charge your love life and ●● Does not stress the hair as there is no pulling of strands boost your career once you look as good as you feel.” through tiny holes. ●● “Targets only gray” ●● “As easy as shampooing” Cons ●● “…no harsh ammonia” ●● Takes longer to do. ●● “…special conditioners for thicker, healthier hair that’s easy ●● More expensive. to control” ●● The skill of the hairdresser is very important, as they can ●● “Women’s haircolor is designed to be dramatic; our tint look shocking if they are not done well. helps a man look his natural best” ●● Not available in all salons. ●● “…nine natural looking shades, each carefully matched to your natural haircolor”. Methods of foiling hair Slicing - parting out a tiny sliver of hair with straight partings, Wow, anyone would want a haircolor that does all that! The either horizontal, vertical, or diagonal depending on the look you client gets the girl and a promotion. The color only targets gray want to achieve. Take into account how the piece will lay when - this makes it seem like a “smart tint” that knows which hair it’s hanging in its natural position. is gray, and leaves the rest of the hair alone. Any haircolorist knows that deposit only color amazingly will do the same thing Weaving - parting off a small section and weaving the tail of if the shade chosen is just slightly lighter than the virgin hair. your comb along the surface, creating either thick or thin strands. The directions interestingly enough tell the gentlemen that if Paneling - creating large sections of hair are colored in they can’t decide between two shades, choose the lighter one. contrasting or complimentary tones. The panels are generally The manufacturers have even chosen a shade out of the nine they underneath or at either side of the part so the paneled sections offer that is carefully matched to the client’s natural haircolor. can be either exposed or hidden entirely, depending on where That’s a good product!! the hair is parted. Positioning is critical with this technique, as is As a haircolorist, you can get your male clientele out of the choosing the right color combinations. grocery aisles and into your chair if you know what they are Foil and Base Change - sections of hair are either sliced or looking for. Think of the increase in your business if you could weaved and highlights and/or lowlights are placed in the hair. At tap into this potential market. the same time, in-between the foils, a base color is applied scalp to ends. The base color can be used to mask previous highlights, Hair Coloring Techniques to totally change a client’s look, or to cover the gray that may be Cap Highlights were very popular in salons from the 60’s to the left between the foils. 80’s and even part of the 90’s. Foiling has definitely taken over Framing - Sections of hair are either sliced or weaved into the as the most popular hair coloring service, but to compare the two hair just around the front hairline to accent a cut and bring out services, below you will find the pro’s and con’s for both. the client’s eyes. Cap highlights No matter what technique is chosen, the way to beautiful highlights Pros involves a couple of rules that will help you to become a foiling ●● Cheaper than the foil method. superstar. First, whether weaving or slicing, the sections must be ●● Done in all but the most exclusive salons. very thin to allow the color to get very close to the scalp. When ●● Quick. slicing, if thicker, bolder highlights are desired, take back-to-back slices without skipping any hair in-between, or even line up three

INFORMED Page 45 foils in a row. If weaving, take the first slice and apply color to the all-over natural looking color & highlights while saving hair that is woven out above the comb, without skipping any hair, time for client and hairdressers. take the next slice and color the hair that is woven out below the ●● Balayage with Lowlights: Basic Balayage technique is comb. In this matter, you will be able to create bolder highlights used while adding contrasting lowlights to create a softer, while staying close to the scalp. Secondly, when applying the more natural look. Darker streaks are controlled by using lightener, start the application in the middle of the strand. When the lowlight papers. brush is drier, turn it sideways and apply the lightener up to the edge of the foil. This “side brushing” will create a softer, more diffused Hair Color Principles line at the top of the highlights, rather than an arrow straight line. The fun part about foiling is that all these techniques can be Self-Assessment mixed and matched on the same head of hair for a totally custom Select the best answer for each question and mark your answers look. However, make sure you have a plan for how and where on the Self-Assessment Answer Sheet on page 89 or complete you’re placing the highlights or lowlights before even mixing your test online at www.nccosmo.cme.edu. the color. Don’t just “wing it,” or you’ll likely end up with a hair color that was obviously done on a whim. 21. Red color molecules are long and narrow, that’s why Balayage haircoloring reds tend to fade quickly. Balayage is the next trend Cosmetologists will see in haircolor.  True  False Gisele Bündchen’s bleached waves generated so much attention, it wasn’t long before the same look showed up on others seeking 22. A “con” of foiling is that it takes longer to do. the same multi-tonal ‘do.’  True  False Derived from the French word balayage, meaning “to sweep”, the technique involves hand painting of the hair with color or lightener 23. Semi-permanent tints contain ammonia. to produce an incredibly individual result. Using a tint brush, a  True  False thick mixture of lightener is painted onto individual hairstrands, from thin at the scalp to thicker at the midshaft and ends. The 24. Paneling means to slice out thin pieces of hair to be process is extremely versatile and can be combined with traditional highlighted. American techniques, such as foiling or single process color, for a combination that has come to be known as “American tailoring.”  True  False

There is simply no end to the customization that can be created 25. Para-dye is another name for demi-permanent tint. for each client. This technique can be used for subtle highlights as well as bold highlights. The great thing about balayage is the  True  False elimination of foil “lines”. It achieves an ultra-natural effect by mimicking nature’s way of lightening hair. Hair should always be darker at the base of the hair shaft, or scalp area, rather than having light “roots” and dark ends. To balayage the hair means giving the hair colorist more room to play and have fun, rather than applying methodical streaks. Foils aren’t used and precision weaving is no longer necessary. This provides ultimate control over the color application, allows for less outgrowth, more color contrast within the hair, and minimal damage to the hair, which is wonderful for clients with long hair. The result is beautiful sun-kissed color of various shades of blond and honey-toned hues that look like you just came from the beach. They are the most natural looking highlights ever. This technique really taps into the hair colorist’s creativity because the streaks aren’t defined and a pattern isn’t developed. Balayage can be used on any color of hair and the lightener mixture can be painted on wet or dry hair. The only limits are the Cosmetologist’s imagination. Balayage consists of the following main techniques: ●● Basic Balayage: The thick mixture of lightener is painted very lightly onto hair strands with a paddle and brush. The mixture dries out on the surface of the hair, but underneath the lightener keeps on working. This is how a multi-tonal effect is achieved. The strands can be toned if the final result is too golden. ●● Baly-Color: The color is first applied to the roots and then Balayage is applied to the ends. This 2-step process gives

Page 46 INFORMED Chapter 6: Chemical Make-Up of Hair, Skin & Nails (2 CE Hours)

Learning objectives The hair is composed of a protein called keratin. As hair moves `` Discuss the physical components of hair, skin and nails. up the follicle, the cells die and are filled with keratin. When `` Identify the different types and permanence of hair coloring. hair emerges from the scalp, sometimes this keratinization is `` Discuss chemical relaxing as it applies to the hair strand. incomplete. The cells are still soft, instead of being hardened `` Discuss the origin of skin cells and their movement through keratin. This fact, along with the presence of body heat, explains the stratum. why when going lighter with tint or lightener, the product must `` Identify the causes of dandruff and proper treatment. be applied away from the scalp initially. Otherwise, the product `` Discuss various skin and nail disorders. may get too light. The protein of the hair is made up of amino acids, which are made To best serve clients, it is important to know not only how to up of elements. The elements are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, do their hair, skin and nails, but why the products work the way nitrogen, and sulfur. They are referred to as COHNS. Sulfur makes that they do. To understand why products work a certain way, up the majority (51 percent) of the hair. End bonds hook these it is important to understand the histology (study of the minute elements together. If these bonds are broken, the hair will break off. structures) of the hair, skin and nails. Side bonds, which cross-link the elements like rungs on a ladder, are hydrogen bonds, salt bonds, and disulfide bonds. These side The parts of the hair bonds are what create the strength and elasticity of the hair. The main structures of the hair include the follicle, sebaceous glands, bulb, papilla, arrector pili muscle, and the hair shaft and These side bonds are broken when wet setting, thermal styling, root. The follicle is simply a pocket in the skin from which the perming or relaxing takes place. hair grows. Attached to it is the sebaceous gland, which secrets sebum (oil) to keep the skin and hair lubricated. The bulb is the lowermost portion of the hair root (the part of the hair still under the skin), that fits over the papilla.The papilla is located at the bottom of the follicle, and supplies the hair with nutrients to allow it to grow. If the papilla dies, there will be no more hair growth from that follicle. The arrector pili muscle is attached to the follicle. When one experiences fear or cold, it tightens up and “goose bumps” result. As stated above, the hair root is simply the portion of the hair still encased in the skin, and the hair shaft is the visible portion of the hair. There are three layers to the hair shaft, the cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is the outermost layer. It consists of a layer of cells that looks like overlapping fish scales. The cuticle is translucent so that the pigment in the cortex is visible. The Shampooing, conditioning and styling cuticle’s function is to protect the inner structures of the hair. When shampooing the hair, the shampoo contains surfactant Any chemicals applied to the hair must have a pH that is alkaline molecules, which are cleansing agents. Surfactant molecules in order to raise the cuticle scales so that the chemicals can get work through the use of their two different ends. The lipophilic into the cortex where the changes will take place. end of the shampoo molecule is attracted to oils and debris present on soiled hair. It rolls up the dirt and oils into balls The cortex is the middle layer of the hair. This layer contains ready to be removed. When water is added to rinse the hair, the about 90 percent of the total weight and strength of the hair. It hydrophilic end of the shampoo molecule is attracted to the water, contains the pigment of the hair (melanin) and the salt, hydrogen pulling the dirt and oil balls off the hair and down the drain. and disulfide bonds used to create new textures and styles. All changes created by wet sets, thermal styling, perming, relaxing, When choosing shampoos, it is important to take into account tinting and bleaching take place in the cortex. the pH of the shampoo, and the condition of the hair that is being shampooed. An acidic shampoo should have a pH of 4-6. The The medulla’s function is unknown. However, its presence higher the pH (7 and above) the harsher the shampoo will be on contributes to the total diameter of the hair. It is absent in fine the hair. However, there are times when a higher pH shampoo is hair and present in coarse hair and male beard hair.

PURE Hair Water Bleach Relaxer

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INFORMED Page 47 desirable. For instance one will need a higher pH shampoo such Conditioners for normal hair coat the cuticle, smooth down the as a clarifying shampoo when build-up is present on the hair. cuticle scales, detangle, prevent moisture loss, and add shine. When looking at ingredients on a label, each ingredient making Rinse immediately, as they do not penetrate. up at least 1 percent of the product must, by law, be listed. The Leave-in conditioners moisturize the hair and form a protective order that ingredients are listed is also important, with the largest layer between the hair and the environment. They also improve ingredient being listed first to the ingredient that is smallest volume by individually coating each hair strand. being listed last. Typically, water is the largest ingredient in most Deep conditioners penetrate the cuticle layer and replace products, as it is the solvent that allows the other ingredients to moisture in the hair. Good for chemically processed hair. Allow blend. to remain on the hair for several minutes to allow the ingredients Oily hair time to work. Heat will allow the conditioner to penetrate more by opening the cuticle. Oily hair is caused by overactive sebaceous glands. Even though shampooed every day, it often looks greasy by the end of the Common ingredients day. Daily shampooing can over-stimulate the oil glands, so a There are some ingredients that one sees listed over and over pH balanced shampoo (4.5-5.5) is essential. If a high-alkaline again in shampoos, conditioners and styling products. Here are a shampoo is used to try to get rid of the oil, one runs the risk of few and their purpose in the preparation. stimulating the sebaceous glands to produce more oil. 66 Fatty alcohol: A chemical compound that is creamy in Oily hair can develop dry ends, but the good news is texture, consisting of a string of many fatty bonds and one that only the dry ends will grab onto the conditioning alcohol bond that delivers moisturizing properties onto the agents in shampoos. The conditioning agents will slide hair shaft. Common names include cetyl alcohol, coconut off the oily scalp area of the hair and will concentrate alcohol, stearyl alcohol or oleic acid. on the ends where it’s needed the most. 66 Ethanol: A water-loving volatile alcohol used to deliver styling polymers onto the hair shaft. It quickly evaporates so Dry hair it does not cause dehydration. Dry hair has underactive sebaceous glands, and is more prone to 66 Oil: A liquid found in plants or minerals that provides split ends. Look for ingredients such as silicone in the shampoo. moisturizing benefits to the hair shaft. An emollient or Silicone will smooth rough hair, make it easier to control, and smoothing agent, it is put in to make the cuticle or outer it will make it shinier. When shampooing, massage the scalp to layer of the hair lie flat and help the hair feel smooth. stimulate the sebaceous glands. Common ingredient names include isocetyl stearoyl Chemically treated hair can become dry and porous. Silicone in stearate, isopropyl myristate, mineral oil, petrolatum, shampoos and conditioners will smooth the hair, and will close glycerin and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil. the cuticle, making the hair appear shinier and locking in the 66 Proteins: A complex chain of amino acids and nitrogen- color to prevent fading. related particles that add gloss and luster to the hair shaft. They are derived from a variety of natural sources such Fine hair as milk, keratin and silk. Common label names include Fine hair tends to lie flat. Shampoos for fine hair contain hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed soy protein and hydrolyzed polymers and silicones to add volume to limp hair. Oat protein is whole-wheat protein. a very effective volumizing ingredient. 66 Pro-Vitamins: Precursors to vitamins A, B and E that penetrate the hair shaft to help strengthen the cortex layer, Conditioners increase tensile strength and make hair more flexible and Hair is dead by the time it emerges from the scalp, but it elastic. Common label names are biotin, pantethine and responds well to external applications to keep it looking its best. panthenol. The outer layer of the hair is composed of overlapping cuticle 66 Silicone: An organic compound used to coat the cuticle scales which should be flat. Flat surfaces reflect light better, layer for smoothing and filling in the layers. Benefits include making the hair shinier. Shampooing and chemical abuse can ease in combing, combating frizz, protecting against damage raise the cuticle, making it look dull and damaged. The raised and promoting shine. Common names include dimethicone, cuticle scales grab onto the raised scales of the next hair, causing trimethylsilyam odimethicone and dimethicone copolyol. tangles. Conditioners coat the hair and smooth the cuticle, 66 Polymer: Whether using gels, mousse, pomades or waxes, eliminating tangles and improving shine. a key ingredient is polymer, a water-soluble adhesive that helps expand the hair by breaking up its surface tension. One of the key ingredients in conditioners is quaternary As the water is dried from the hair, the polymer remains. If ammonium compounds (quats) which coat the hair shaft, but are you add hair spray, you get more polymers, making the hair not absorbed into the hair. The quats that are in conditioners are more resistant to humidity. attracted to hair allowing it to remain in the hair longer. Other common ingredients in conditioners are moisturizers Thermal Styling which add softness and control to dry hair and silicones for Ceramics and ionic hair care tools are some of the newest extra shine. Also, one might find humectants which help retain technologies on the block. They use negatively charged ions moisture, and lubricants which reduce surface friction and to make hair more beautiful. Ions are particles that are either smooth the cuticle of the hair. A polymer is a water-soluble positively or negatively charged. When an oxygen atom has an adhesive which may be added. extra electron, it is negatively charged, and when the atom lacks

Page 48 INFORMED an electron, it is positively charged. Contrary to the wording, Chemical Relaxing and the hair strand the negative ion is the desirable ion. Ceramic flat irons, curling Chemical Hair Relaxing is the process of chemically reforming irons and blow dryers create negative ions, resulting in shiny and overly curly hair into straight hair. This procedure is very similar silky hair. The ion hair dryer uses negative ions to dry hair faster to permanent waving, as both procedures change the hair by and condition the hair. The negative ions generated by the dryer breaking disulfide bonds. enable the water to better penetrate the hair, moisturizing the There are two types of chemical relaxing chemicals that are used hair. More moisture will result in less flyaways and frizzies. in the salon. Sodium hydroxide (also known as Lye) has a pH pH over 13, which makes it 100 million times more alkaline than the It is necessary to look at pH whenever discussing products that pH of hair. The sodium hydroxide relaxers break the disulfide are placed on the hair, skin or nails. pH stands for potential bonds in a different manner than the thio relaxers or perms. The hydrogen. An acid is a substance that donates one or more bonds broken by hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently hydrogen (H+) ions, while a base or alkaline solution is a and can never be reformed. This is why hydroxide relaxers and substance that accepts one or more hydrogen (H+) ions. thio products can never be used on the same head of hair. Severe damage and breakage will occur. In a sample of pure water, a small proportion of H2O molecules undergo disassociation to product H+ ions and OH- (hydroxide) Other types of relaxers that are similar are “no lye” relaxers ions. When the concentrations of H+ and OH- ions are equal which use lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and to each other, as in pure water, the pH value is 7. In acidic guanidine hydroxide. Still another category is low pH relaxers solutions, pH values fall below 7, while in basic (or alkaline) such as ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite relaxers. solutions, they go above 7. They are compatible with thio relaxers, but are not compatible with hydroxide relaxers, and do not completely straighten the The pH of hair, skin and nails is 4.5 to 5.5. The pH scale ranges hair. Low pH relaxers are intended for use on color-treated, from 0-14. Each step on the pH scale is 10 times stronger than damaged or fine hair. the previous step. A pH of 6 is ten times stronger than a pH of 5. A pH of 7 (pure water) is a hundred times stronger than a pH Ammonium thioglycolate relaxers have a pH above 10, and are of 5 (the pH of hair). The pH of hair lightener is 10, which is thicker than the thio solutions used in perming. Neutralization is 100,000 times stronger than the pH of the hair. necessary to maintain the straightened hair. Acids contract and harden the hair. Glycerol monothioglycolate, Haircoloring and the hair strand used in perming is acidic. Alkalis soften and swell the hair. Natural hair color is created by a combination of eumelanin Sodium Hydroxide (lye) used in chemical hair relaxing, is an (brown and black color) and pheomelanin (red and blonde color). alkaline substance. All natural hair color is a combination in differing degrees of eumelanin and pheomelanin. Gray hair is the absence of melanin. Permanent waving and the hair strand When perming hair, one has a choice of using an acid perm or an When using temporary color, it simply coats the outside of the alkaline perm. When the perm solution is applied to the hair strand, cuticle until the next shampoo, when it is removed. Temporary it opens up the cuticle, allowing the solution to penetrate into the haircolor uses certified colors. You can only go darker with them, cortex. In the cortex, the hydrogen bonds are broken by the water and no patch test is necessary. Types of temporary haircolors used to shampoo the hair. The salt bonds are broken by changes in include mascara and colored mousse. the pH created by the chemicals in the perm solution. The disulfide When using semi-permanent haircolor, the molecules are small, bonds are broken by ammonium thioglycolate (alkaline perms) or so they partially penetrate the cuticle, and stain the outside of the glycerol monothioglycolate (acidic perms). When the neutralizer is hair. They only last 6-8 shampoos, but do required a patch test. applied, the disulfide bonds are reformed. When the pH of the hair Semi-permanent color contains a developer that opens the cuticle returns to normal, the salt bonds are reformed, and when the hair is slightly. The developer is a low-strength hydrogen peroxide dried, the hydrogen bonds will reform. buffered with conditioners. When the semi-permanent tint is mixed with the developer, it results in a chemical change. C= salt =C C= =S When applying Demi-permanent haircolor, it penetrates into the O= salt =O O= =C cortex through the cuticle. The color molecules are very small H= hydrogen =H H= =O however, so over 6-8 weeks will fade as the color molecules slip back out of the cuticle and cortex. One can only go darker, N= hydrogen =N N= =H and a patch test is required. Demi-permanent color is used S= disulfide =S S= =N mostly to refresh the midshaft to ends of previously tinted hair, =S as it is milder than permanent haircolor. Demi-permanent and =C permanent colors contain ammonia, the cause of the smell The chemical make-up of hair: There are more salt and hydrogen associated with hair coloring. Ammonia is added to assist in bonds than disulfide bonds. The salt and hydrogen bonds are weaker, but the reaction that occurs when the developer mixes with the their strength comes from numbers. When the hair is wrapped around a tint. It also swells the hair. Demi-permanent color has less rod, and the solution is applied, the disulfide bonds are broken. The last diagram shows the bonds reattached in their new curly formation. After hydrogen peroxide than permanent color, but in both cases the the hair has been neutralized, the pH has returned to normal and the hair cuticle is opened so the color molecules can penetrate into the has been dried, the hair will remain in its curly state. cortex. Demi-permanent color is basically a non-lift color or a deposit-only color. It doesn’t shampoo out but it won’t lighten

INFORMED Page 49 hair. Many people think it is the same as semi-permanent color; Skin chemistry however it still contains oxidation, which means it stays in the When working with the skin, it is helpful to know the journey hair. True semi-permanent color is basically a stain because it cells take to get to the surface of the skin and the changes doesn’t actually penetrate the cuticle of the hair. It lies between they go through. The skin consists of two main divisions, the the outer cuticle layers and gradually comes out. epidermis and dermis. The epidermis is the one closest to the Permanent haircolor is mixed with a developer, and remains in environment and it is the thinner of the two. It consists of the cortex until it grows out. One can go lighter or darker with multiple layers of cells that are constantly shedding. permanent haircoloring and it requires a patch test. When the In the epidermis, the cells start life in the stratum germinativum small tint molecules are mixed with the developer, they begin and look like juicy grapes. They are full of moisture and are to expand into larger molecules that become trapped in the hair. plump and young looking. As they move toward the surface the The color-forming ingredients, known as primary intermediates, cells begin to flatten out and lose some of their moisture. They consist mainly of para-phenylenediamine. When combined begin to look very spiny, hence the name Stratum Spinosum. with the oxidizer, hydrogen peroxide, a color change results. As they continue their journey up to the surface, they become Permanent color is milder than it used to be due to the addition flatter and look granular in appearance (stratum granulosum). The of buffers. moisture inside the cell continues to be forced out of the cell. The A concern for most cosmetologists is the fading of red tints. stratum lucidum is a clear layer which is found only in the palms Most color molecules are long and narrow. Red dyes have a of the hands and soles of the feet and offers more protection to diamond shape, so they don’t color as easily and the color tends these areas. By the time the cells reach the stratum corneum, the to fade. Red is extremely light-sensitive. The red dye most moisture has been completely forced out of the cell. The cell is commonly used in haircolor was banned in the United States simply hardened keratin at this point. The moisture which has in the 1970s due to a cancer scare associated with all red dyes. been forced out is now a sticky substance that works like glue to That’s when manufacturers in the US were forced to manipulate hold all of the hardened keratinized cells together. This knowledge the shape of molecules in the red dyes as a substitute for the is helpful when giving a facial and exfoliation is indicated. A banned dyes. preparation containing enzymes will help to consume the hardened keratin and alpha hydroxy acids will help to dissolve the moisture Lighteners work by dissolving and decolorizing the hair’s around the cells. When working on the skin, a dermatologist is pigment. As soon as the developer is mixed with the lightener, it licensed to work as deep as the stratum (layer) germinativum if begins to release oxygen, creating the lightening effect desired. the client’s condition indicates the need for this. However, this is a The hair can be lightened all over, using on-the-scalp lighteners, major procedure accompanied by blood loss. The cosmetologist or or can be highlighted. Highlighting is done with off-the-scalp esthetician is only licensed to work on the Stratum Corneum. lighteners and can be accomplished with a cap or with foils. If the desired color is not achieved with the lightener, the hair can Underneath the epidermis is the dermis (the true skin), which be toned using a light aniline derivative tint. contains two layers, the papillary and reticular layer. It contains collagen and elastin fibers which give the skin its elasticity and Colors that are not used in the salon include vegetable dyes and strength. Collagen is a protein that gives the skin structure. metallic dyes. The vegetable dye used is henna. It is a natural Elastin is a protein similar to collagen that allows the skin to plant substance that coats the hair. However, it doesn’t coat the stretch and return. Aging, lack of moisture, environmental hair evenly and doesn’t react well with professional chemicals. damage and extreme fluctuations in weight will damage the Metallic dyes contain metal salts and change the color of the hair collagen and elastin, causing wrinkles and sagging. The dermis by gradually building up the color over time. These products are also contains hair follicles, sweat and oil glands, blood and not compatible with professional chemicals and they develop an lymph vessels and some melanocytes. Melanocytes give the unnatural color over time. skin its color and protect the body from the UV rays. Moles are groupings of melanocytes. Haircoloring works in different ways depending on the lasting ability of the color. Underneath the dermis is the subcutaneous tissue (fat). This tissue gives shape and contour to the body. The skin and UV rays The vast majority of aging (80-85 percent) comes from sun exposure. One even receives sun exposure walking from the workplace to the car in the dead of winter. Sun protection of at least 15-30 SPF is essential to protect the skin every day. Temporary Semi-Permanent Products designed today with moisturizers, sun protection and a foundation combined into one product greatly simplify the morning routine. To best demonstrate how UV rays age skin, look at the face of someone that spends a lot of time behind the wheel of a vehicle. The side closest to the side window will have more wrinkles and more hyperpigmentation (brown spots) than the other side. The Demi-Permanent Permanent epidermis is as thin as a sheet of paper, and so this long-term exposure to ultraviolet rays creates wrinkles.

Page 50 INFORMED fortunately most of the UVC rays are absorbed in the atmosphere before they reach the earth, as UVC has a very short wavelength. The longer rays of UVA and UVB pass through the atmosphere, even on a cloudy day. Sunscreens absorb most UVB and prevent it from reaching the skin. Most sunscreens however, do not protect skin from UVA. Skin cancer The incidence of skin cancer keeps rising. The three most common skin cancers are basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and malignant melanoma. It is believed that more than 90 percent of these cancers are caused by the UV radiation in sunlight. There are differences in melanoma and squamous cell and basal cell carcinomas. Basal cell and squamous cell When sunlight strikes the atmosphere, it enters the ozone layer. carcinomas develop in the cells of the epidermis, while malignant When it emerges from the other side, about half of the ultraviolet melanomas develop in the melanocytes. It is estimated that one (UV) radiation is gone. However, what remains is more than in 75 Americans will develop malignant melanoma, but if caught enough to damage skin. early it is highly curable. If left untreated however, it will invade neighboring tissues and will metastasize to other parts of the body. PREVENTION STRATEGIES ●● Stay out of the sun between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Watch moles for any changes. The American Cancer ●● Stand in the shade or use an umbrella to avoid sun Society recommends using the ABCD checklist to recognize exposure. possible skin cancer. ●● Wear wide brimmed hat and tightly woven clothing. ●● Wear UV screening sunglasses to avoid cataract A - asymmetry B - border C - Color D - Diameter development. ●● Use a sunblock with an SPF of 15 or above. Environmental enemies of the skin Smoking and alcohol use have been linked to the premature UVA, which is the ultraviolet ray used in most tanning equipment aging and wrinkling of the skin. Nicotine is responsible for damages the collagen and elastin, leading to wrinkling, premature weakening and contracting blood vessels. This causes decreased aging and the development of skin cancers. The tanning industry circulation to the skin. Alcohol is responsible for dilation of claims that tanning indoors is safer than tanning outdoors since the the blood vessels. Over time the capillaries will break causing amount of UV rays the client is experiencing can be controlled. a flushed look to the skin. The combination of the two can be Tanning beds emit UVA and UVB rays, with more of the UVA than devastating to the skin. the UVB being emitted. However, tanning beds emit amounts of UVA that are 2-3 times higher than received in the natural sunlight. Skin disorders and treatments Dandruff is not caused by a dry scalp. It is actually the result UVC - the rays most responsible for Cancer. They are absorbed in of abnormal shedding of the stratum corneum cells. These cells the atmosphere before they reach normally form continuously in the stratum germinativum and the earth. work their way to the surface within about two weeks. As the cells reach the surface, they are flattened, hardened keratin, and UVA - the Aging rays. They are the rays through normal wear and tear, are routinely shed from the scalp. responsible for weakening collagen and Ozone elastin, leading to premature aging. For most people, this shedding is continuous and imperceptible. For others, however, the rate of production and shedding is accelerated, resulting in noticeable flaking and scaling. Itching UVB - the Burning rays. They also may occasionally be a problem, but the most common complaint contribute to tanning by is the unsightly shedding. Dandruff is most severe from October stimulating melanin production. through December and it seems to occur more commonly in Dermis people with oily skin or acne. The condition is common among teens and peaks in the early 20s.

Epidermis What causes dandruff? Some researchers feel it comes from an infection of the scalp, improper diet, hormonal imbalances, or vitamin deficiencies. One theory attributes it to a yeast-like fungus known as Pityrosporum ovale. P. ovale is a common fungus, and most everyone harbors it, however some people with high levels of the yeast appear more likely to suffer from dandruff. UVB is also responsible for much of the skin damage caused In seborrheic dermatitis the cells’ turnover rate is even higher by sunlight, especially sunburn. UVC is the most damaging, but than with dandruff, making it even more annoying and

INFORMED Page 51 embarrassing. It also is marked by inflammation, causing more Prescription remedies itching than dandruff. The shedding affects not only the scalp, Prescription drugs such as selenium sulfide suspension are but also the eyebrows, eyelashes, external ear canal, behind available for dandruff and other scalp conditions. Selenium the ears, and in the nasal folds. No one knows the cause of sulfide will cut down on scaling and itching. If p. ovale is indeed seborrheic dermatitis, but it runs in families, and its severity the cause of dandruff, it is believed that it is converted into ions fluctuates over the years. A harmless form of seborrhea that that block the enzymes responsible for the growth of cells on occurs in infants is known as “cradle cap”. It is very common the outer layer of the scalp. It apparently slows the rate of cell in the first week or two of life, but can occur any time during turnover and reduces scaling. The prescription strength remedy infancy. contains 2½ times the amount of selenium sulfide as over-the- Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory skin disease. Its symptoms counter products to treat more severe cases. include pink or red areas covered with coarse, silvery scales. It The next most commonly used prescription medication is steroid can occur anywhere on the body, and may be a chronic disorder, lotion. It reduces inflammation and suppresses itching. The FDA or may go into remission for brief periods. One to three million has approved a new anti-fungal cream, called ketoconazole, Americans have psoriasis. The disorder is most common in those available by prescription. Researchers believe it also reduces p. who categorize themselves as white, and it is hereditary. Stress ovale. and anxiety may trigger outbreaks, and pregnancy often clears There are always side effects to drugs. Selenium products it, only to return after birth, suggesting hormonal influence. It may discolor hair. Prescription products may cause excessive generally occurs between the ages of 10 and 30, and most cases dryness of the hair, itching and even hair loss, but most dandruff can be controlled with topical treatments. For those who have sufferers feel that’s a small price to pay to eliminate dandruff. not responded to typical therapies, a new medical treatment has been developed. It uses long-wave ultraviolet radiation in Other skin disorders combination with a drug treatment that increases the skin’s Tinea is the technical name for ringworm caused by a vegetable sensitivity to light. This treatment effectively controls psoriasis, parasite (fungi). It is very contagious, and infected skin scales or but doesn’t cure it. This treatment doesn’t work as well on the hairs can spread the disease. Pediculosis Capititis is the technical scalp however, because the hair blocks the light rays. term for head lice. Lice are transmitted from one person to another Treatments for scalp disorders by hats, combs, and personal articles. Cosmetologists cannot work if either of these conditions is present. Proper universal Active ingredients for dandruff and other scalp disorders include precautions will prevent the spread of both of these disorders. the following: ●● Antimicrobials - Zinc pyrithione controls scalp conditions, The nail structure but scientists don’t know exactly how it works. The manicurist or cosmetologist works primarily on the nail ●● Kerotolytics - they loosen scales and allow them to be more plate. The hyponychium is the skin under the free edge of the easily washed away. Includes salicylic acid and precipitated nail. The eponychium is the skin at the base of the nail, and the sulfur. peronychium is the skin surrounding the nail plate. The lunula ●● Antipruritics - they curb the pain and itching that is the half-moon at the base of the nail. At the base of the nail sometimes accompany scalp conditions, and slow down plate, under the skin, is the nail root. Under the nail plate is the the flaking and scaling. Menthol is one active ingredient. nail bed. At the end of the nail bed and nail root is the matrix. If Corticosteroids have mostly replaced these products. the matrix dies, there will be no more nail growth. Manicurists ●● Corticosteroids - one of the most commonly used anti- and cosmetologists work on the nail plate, giving manicures and dandruff treatments. Relieve itching and slow down flaking. pedicures and applying artificial nail enhancements. They are anti-inflammatory, reducing redness and swelling that contribute to scalp conditions. Because they are newer The best way to remember the names of the structures preparations, some experts believe they shouldn’t be used surrounding the nail is to use the acronym HELP (Hyponychium, continually for more than a month without consulting a Eponychium, Lunula and Peronychium) as you travel doctor. counterclockwise around the nail.

●● Coal tar - a byproduct of treated bituminous coal. No Hyponychium one knows exactly how they work. One theory proposes that coal tar takes oxygen from the skin, inhibiting cell reproduction and causing a decrease in the number of cells that can be shed from the scalp. Coal tars may also work Nail Plate by penetrating the outer skin layer and removing the scales. Peronychium Coal tars are messy and smelly. They can stain the skin Eponychium and hair, but recently, manufacturers have emulsified the coal tar into a gel that eliminates these drawbacks. One caution- because coal tars make the skin susceptible to Lunula sunburn, clients need to avoid sunlight for 24 hours after use. Again, coal tar shouldn’t be used for long periods without consulting a physician, and they shouldn’t be used in conjunction with psoriasis therapies without consulting a physician. Coal tar is also effective on Seborrhea.

Page 52 INFORMED Common nail disorders Chemical Make-Up of Hair, Skin & Nails The cosmetologist should only work with healthy feet and toes. No “I” should be present: inflammation, infection, injury, or any Self-Assessment indication that anything is abnormal. Select the best answer for each question and mark your answers on the Self-Assessment Answer Sheet on page 89 or complete The nail is quite porous. It will absorb moisture more quickly your test online at www.nccosmo.cme.edu. than skin. This is why one cannot do a water manicure and then apply an artificial nail enhancement. The nail will swell and then when it dries out will separate from the nail enhancement. 26. Coal tar is a common ingredient in dandruff Also, moisture can encourage fungal growth. Fungi are of primary preparations. concern to the cosmetologist or manicurist. Fungus is contagious  True  False and can be spread to other clients through unsanitary practices. The fungus appears under the nails as a cheesy, sticky residue. A 27. Tanning beds primarily emit UVB rays. client with suspected fungus must be referred to a physician.  True  False In the past, discolorations between the natural nail and nail enhancements were thought to be mold. It is now known to 28. A form of Seborrhea that occurs in babies is known as come from pseudomonas aeruginosa, a bacterial infection. The cradle cap. bacteria are naturally present on skin, but can grow out of control in the no-oxygen conditions present between nails and nail  True  False enhancements. It looks like a greenish yellow spot that becomes darker with time. You may remove the nail enhancement to 29. Dipped nails are created with fiberglass and glue. expose the natural nail to air, but you must wear gloves to do so.  True  False However the stain will not be removed; it must grow out. 30. Dandruff is not caused by a dry scalp. Artificial nails  True  False Artificial nails are made from the same type of chemicals that are used to make the base for dentures. The powder is usually polymethyl methacrylate and benzoyl peroxide, and the liquid is a mixture of a methacrylate ester monomer and a promoter. When combined the chemicals react so that the monomer becomes a polymer. UV gels contain methacrylic or acrylic ester monomer, polyurethane and a curing agent mixed together. The UV light then hardens the mixture. Tips may be used to increase the length of the nail. Wraps, made of paper, silk, linen or fiberglass may be used with or without tips. The tips are combined with glue to create a hardened shell over the nails. Dipped nails are an easy way to create strong longer nails. A glue or resin is painted onto the nail and then the nail is dipped into a polymer. The process is repeated 2-3 times, creating a sculptured look without the need for the skill necessary. Disorders related to artificial nails Methyl methacrylate (MMA) was the original substance used to create artificial nails. However, MMA created problems, causing discoloration, deformity, loss of fingernails, irritation and inflammation of the nail bed. Action by the FDA led manufacturers to reformulate their products. Methyl methacrylate was replaced by ethyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate and other chemically related monomers. The use of MMA is prohibited in North Carolina. Even now, clients may have a reaction to artificial nails, but they are likely to occur when the methacrylate monomers are not completely polymerized, leaving some monomer free to enter the natural nail. This would result from an incorrect powder to liquid ratio. However, allergic reactions are infrequent. Of greater concern are bacterial and fungal infections on artificial nail wearers. If a nail separates from the artificial nail and dirt or moisture get in between, trouble may occur. If the nail pate is not properly sanitized before applying the artificial product, problems can occur.

INFORMED Page 53 Chapter 7 Sanitation and Sterilization (2 CE Hours)

Learning objectives near body openings such as the mouth, nose and eyes. They are `` Distinguish between non-pathogenic and pathogenic bacteria. removed temporarily by washing. The bacteria then return from `` Categorize the different types of pathogenic bacteria. the environment and from deep down in the sebaceous gland `` Determine the difference between viruses and bacteria. ducts. The outer ear can be home to bacteria, yeasts and molds. `` Assess his/her knowledge of the various types of parasites. Examples of pathogenic bacteria that live in and around the eye `` State the possible sources of contamination in a salon. include staphylococcus and streptococcus. `` Demonstrate a knowledge of infection control procedures. When the number of bacteria overwhelms the body’s immune `` Review salon protocol for sterilization, disinfection and system, infection occurs. This can be a local infection, such as sanitation procedures. when pus is present in a pimple. If the bacteria or virus travel Cleanliness of the salon is vital for many reasons. Protecting throughout the body through the circulatory system, a general the health and safety of the public is the most important service infection occurs, such as influenza. a cosmetologist, esthetician and manicurist can render to the public. If one does not safeguard the public, it is likely to result Pathogenic bacteria classification - cocci in the loss of one’s license and business. A dirty salon conveys There are three classifications of pathogenic bacteria, cocci, bacilli, an unprofessional image and will result in loss of income and and spirilla and they are categorized by the shape of the bacteria. clients. The cosmetology regulatory agencies require salons to Cocci bacteria are round shaped bacteria. They do not have any follow certain sanitary precautions. means of self-movement. They are distributed in the air, water or within the substance in which they land. If a cosmetologist uses Bacteriology a comb on more than one person without disinfecting it, cocci To understand the organisms one must be concerned about it is bacteria may well travel from one head to another on the comb. necessary to study them. The study of bacteria (also known as Cocci bacteria are further subdivided into three groups, including microbes and germs) is known as Bacteriology. Bacteria are very staphylococci, streptococci, and diplococci. small organisms with both plant and animal characteristics. They can exist almost anywhere: in manicuring files, on hairbrushes, Memory hint - If you look at the word cocci, you will see and under fingernails, to name but a few. Bacteria are so that most of the letters are round. Cocci= OOOOi. This will numerous, that each human being has more bacteria living inside help you to remember that this is the round type of bacteria. the human body (without hurting it) than the entire population of Earth. Bacteria that live in and on the body outnumber the body’s cell by nine to one. Microbes are present in veins, collect on one’s Staphylococci form a cluster of round bacteria and causes pus eyes, and gather in digestive and respiratory systems. They can and infection, (i.e. After the operation, he developed a staph harm humans or benefit them. Among other benefits, they aid infection). Staphylococcus aureus lives on our skin at all times, in digestion, and stimulate development of the immune system. and is perfectly safe, as long as it stays on the outside of our There are two types of bacteria, pathogenic and non-pathogenic. bodies. The problem occurs when there is a break in the skin, and staphylococcus aureus enters the body. This is one of the most Non-pathogenic bacteria likely causes of infections in hospitals, such as skin infections. Non-pathogenic bacteria are helpful or harmless bacteria and they This is why it is so imperative to use good infection control make up approximately 70 percent of all bacteria on earth. They procedures in the salon, especially in the case of a blood spill. are capable of producing many enzymes necessary for the building up and breaking down of organic compounds. Non-pathogenic bacteria are used for soil enrichment, for preservation by pickling, Memory hint - the skin was pierced by a staff, and for fermentation, and for decomposition of organic wastes. now the patient has a staph infection. Pathogenic bacteria Streptococci look like a chain of round bacteria, and it causes Pathogenic bacteria, which compose only 30 percent of all strep throat. Strep throat is usually characterized by an extremely bacteria, are the ones cosmetologists must be concerned about. painful throat with white spots, enlarged tonsils, and sometimes They cause diseases and can be harmful to human beings. Making gastrointestinal (digestive tract) disturbances. The same them even more dangerous, bacteria reproduce at a considerable bacteria can produce scarlet fever and rheumatic fever. Scarlet rate. One bacterium grows and then splits into two daughter cells, fever is strep throat accompanied by a characteristic skin rash. and this can be repeated thirty times in a single day. To put this Fortunately, scarlet fever responds well to modern antibiotics. another way, bacteria can pass through thirty generations in a single day. This same feat by human beings would take 1,000 years. Pathogenic bacteria such as staphylococci, streptococci and even Memory hint - streptococci look like a chain of bacteria. fungi grow on the scalp and near sweat (sudoriferous) and oil Chains are worn around the neck, which is also where you (sebaceous) glands. Microbes congregate in mucus secretions get strep throat.

Page 54 INFORMED Diplococci grow in pairs and it can cause pneumonia and operating room. It is cold, very light, very clean and dry. Not cerebro-spinal meningitis. In pneumonia, the organism reaches conditions conducive to the growth of bacteria. Just as one will put the lungs through the respiratory passages. Usually an upper on a coat to go outside in cold temperatures to avoid hypothermia respiratory infection precedes the disease. The symptoms include and death, the bacteria will put on this coat-like spore and will high fever, chills, pain in the chest, difficulty in breathing, and remain dormant until conditions improve. At that point, it will coughing. Cerebro-spinal meningitis is an inflammation of the shed this coat and will begin to grow and reproduce again. brain and spinal cord. It is often epidemic and fatal. Viruses and bacteria – what’s the difference? Bacteria are independent organisms that exist alongside one’s Memory hint - diplococci grow in pairs. A double dip cells. When an antibiotic is prescribed for a bacterial infection, ice cream cone has two scoops of ice cream. it is likely to work because the antibiotic can readily get to and

destroy the bacteria. However, many bacteria are becoming Pathogenic bacteria classification - bacilli resistant to antibiotics. This may be due to the overuse of The second classification of bacteria is bacilli. Bacilli are rod prescription antibiotics or failing to complete a course of shaped bacteria. They may have a hair like structure attached antibiotics prescribed to one by a physician. Also, one-quarter to them called cilia or flagella that enables them to move of all antibiotics used in the United States are used as growth about. They can cause tetanus (lockjaw) and tuberculosis. enhancers in livestock, and to avoid microbial attacks on fruit. Tuberculosis is an infectious disease caused by the bacilli People who have never taken antibiotics for sickness are still bacteria, Mycobacterium tuberculosis. It is spread through the being overexposed to them through the food they eat and are air through coughing, sneezing, or yelling. When another person acquiring serious infections that are resistant to antibiotics. inhales these bacteria laden droplets, they become infected. A Viruses are dependent organisms. They must invade host cells contagious person will infect 10-20 other people each year. to live. They reproduce inside the cell and then the cell erupts, Another rod shaped bacteria called Mycobacterium fortuitum discharging its contents to other cells which are then also invaded. furunculosis caused great concern in 2000. A pedicure salon Antibiotics cannot get to the virus inside the cell. It would have to in California had over one hundred clients come down with destroy the body cells along with the virus to be effective. stubborn leg sores, due to improper cleansing of the whirlpool The common cold is one of the more widespread viruses. foot spas in the salon. The bacteria were living and reproducing Children can expect approximately four to eight colds a year, in the built up debris of the foot spas. and adults can expect three to five colds per year. There are more than one hundred types of common cold, and getting over one Memory hint - If you look at the word bacilli, you will see gives no immunity to the other ninety-nine plus. The most likely that many of the letters are rod shaped. Bacilli = Bac | | | | route of transmission of the common cold is contaminated hands. Viruses also produce hepatitis, which causes an inflammation Pathogenic bacteria classification - spirilla of the liver. Hepatitis is characterized by jaundice, fever, liver enlargement and abdominal pain. Hepatitis A, B and C The third classification of bacteria is spirilla. They are spiral or each come from a different viral family, and each has specific corkscrew shaped bacteria. Spirilla may also have flagella or preventative measures, methods of spreading and treatments. cilia to aid their movement from surface to surface. They may cause syphilis and Lyme disease. Syphilis is primarily spread Hepatitis A is spread by putting something in the mouth, such by sexual contact, but infection through an open wound or as food or water that has been contaminated with the stool of a lesion is possible. Lyme disease is a nonfatal bacterial infection person with Hepatitis A. The virus is spread more easily by people spread by the deer tick. The disease occurs mainly in the lacking proper hygiene. That is why it is so important to wash northeastern United States among people who frequent grassy or hands with soap and water after using the restroom. The best way wooded areas. Most people with syphilis and Lyme disease are to prevent Hepatitis A is to be vaccinated. The vaccine can give at successfully treated with antibiotics. least 20 years worth of protection, although most people recover on their own after a couple of months of sickness. Once one has Memory hint - If you look at the word spirilla, you will had Hepatitis A, one cannot contract it again. About one-third of see that the word begins with a spiral letter. Spirilla= Americans have had a past infection that has led to immunity. pirilla. Syphilis also begins with an S. Hepatitis B and C are transmitted through blood and body fluids from an infected person. The best protection is the three-dose Bacterial growth vaccination. It is absolutely necessary to follow proper blood spill Bacteria enjoy the greatest growth and division potential under procedures to protect the cosmetologist and the client at all times. warm, dark, damp and dirty conditions. A salon will most likely HIV (Human Immunodeficiency Virus) is a rapidly mutating be warm, and will be damp in certain areas such as the shampoo retrovirus that causes AIDS. It attacks the helper cells of the area. If the salon is also dirty, three of the four conditions for body’s immune system and leaves the victim vulnerable to optimal growth of bacteria have been met. Now imagine that infections and malignancies. In many cases, a person’s immune there are closed dark cupboards around the shampoo bowls. Four system will fight off HIV for many years before it succumbs out of four conditions are present. and the signs of AIDS develop. HIV, as well as many other If these conditions are not present the bacteria may die, or pathogens can be transmitted in the salon by a sharp implement some will form a thickened covering called a spore. Imagine an that accidentally pierces the skin.

INFORMED Page 55 Many of these diseases require direct exchange of body fluids, shampooing and is left on for 10 minutes. A second application such as blood. This is something that might happen in rare is usually not required, but it should not be used by anyone instances in the salon. However, if a blood spill occurs during allergic to chrysanthemums. a manicure due to a cut with file for instance, all blood spill procedures must be followed to protect the cosmetologist and the Immunity client. When doing extractions in the facial room, gloves must Immunity is the ability of the body to destroy any bacteria that be worn. If hands are chapped or dry, broken skin is present and have gained entrance and to resist a disease. Naturally acquired must be protected. immunity occurs when a person is exposed to a pathogen, develops the disease, and become immune as a result. Naturally Parasites acquired passive immunity occurs during pregnancy, in which A parasite is an organism that lives off of another organism antibodies are passed from the mother to the child. without giving anything in return. There are two different types Artificially acquired active immunity can be developed through of parasites that can invade the human body, vegetable and the use of a vaccine. This stimulates the body to create a animal parasites. response against the antigen without causing symptoms of the Vegetable parasites disease. Artificially acquired passive immunity is a short-term immunization created by the injection of antibodies, such as Ringworm (tinea) is a fungus caused by a vegetable parasite that getting a tetanus shot. is classified by its location on the body: tinea capitis (head), tinea unguium (nails), and tinea pedis (feet). It is highly contagious, Environmental contamination and cosmetologists that find they have been invaded by ringworm To protect oneself, it is necessary to recognize all the places should not work until given the okay by their physician. Fungi where contamination can occur in a salon. Microorganisms are are present on the bodies of most people, but some are more everywhere, but there are certain areas where there is likely to be resistant to this parasitic invasion than others. A prolonged moist, a higher than average concentration. The shampoo bowl is a very airless condition such as on feet encased in shoes for 12-14 hours receptive area to bacteria. Pseudomonas bacteria love warm, a day, may subject a formerly resistant person to this invasion. moist places like the shampoo bowl, the drain, the faucet and Nail fungus can be acquired through improperly disinfected the handles. The shampoo bowl and its surrounding structures implements or by moisture trapped under an artificial nail. can also be contaminated with staphylococcus or streptococcus Even though fungi have a bad reputation, they have their good from a patron’s hair, nails or skin. Implements used on clients, points too. They are a source for antibiotics, vitamins, alcohols, such as scissors, files and brushes are other main sources of acetone and enzymes, and they play a significant role in contamination. Extra care must be taken to decontaminate these fermentation. They are also important in the decomposition of articles in between clients. organic matter. Microorganisms may be present in products being used in Animal parasites the salon. If sanitary measures are not followed, and fingers are dipped into creams, gels and lotions, the product is Head lice (Pediculosis Capitis) are parasites that feed on small contaminated. Even if proper measures are taken, with age, some amounts of blood from humans. Their favorite feeding sites products may lose the preservatives that keep microorganisms include behind the ears and at the nape of the neck. Their feeding from growing. If any products change color or develop an odor, is what is responsible for the itching that is often the first sign of the product must be discarded. It may be contaminated. their presence. Although usually confined to the head, lice can sometimes spread to beards, eyebrows, and in rare instances, Another possible source of environmental contamination is the eyelashes. Lice do not fly, but can easily spread from head to heating and cooling system in a salon, especially if they are not head through close contact, and through the sharing of hats and cleaned in a timely fashion. If filters are not changed regularly combs. Lice can live up to two to three days apart from the body and an odor is noticeable, there are probably microbes growing and in closets can travel from hat to hat. They may also hide in in the system. When the fan turns on, these same microbes the stitching of school bus seats waiting for their next victim. The are blown all over the salon. Legionnaire’s disease was spread female louse lays 6-10 nits a day and the nits hatch in seven to throughout a hotel in a similar manner. fourteen days. The lice mature in about another week to 12 days. Direct and indirect contamination It is easier to spot the nits than the lice themselves. Because the There are a number of ways that bacteria, viruses and fungi nits are whitish in color, it is easier to spot them on brunettes and can be transmitted to individuals. Bacteria can be transmitted redheads than on blonds. To determine if the suspicious substance through direct or indirect contact. Direct contact includes person- is dandruff or lice, pick up a strand of hair and pull your fingernail to-person contact with blood and other body fluids. Indirect across the strand where the whitish substance occurs. If the contact occurs from transmission through a contaminated substance comes off easily, it is likely dandruff or hairspray. If it intermediate object. Usually the object is one’s hands. stays attached to the hair, it is lice. Stop the service immediately, disinfect all surfaces and refer the client to a physician. Viruses can also be transmitted through direct or indirect contact. Some viruses can survive for a number of hours on The physician may prescribe a shampoo containing lindane or surfaces, providing an opportunity to contaminate hands. When a cream rinse containing permethrin. Lindane shampoos are hairdressers touch their eyes, nose or hair without hand washing, applied for four minutes and a second application is usually not their contaminated hands can spread bacteria, viruses and fungi required. The cream rinse containing permethrin is applied after

Page 56 INFORMED to others. Careful hand washing is as effective as wearing gloves Sanitation to avoid picking up these pathogens. Sanitation is the cleaning of pathogenic microorganisms from hands The most common unhygienic practices in the salon include: and surfaces. It can include washing of the hands, which removes infrequent and poor handwashing, lack of handwashing prior to dirt and microbes from the hands mechanically and the use of servicing clients and lack of handwashing after contact with the antiseptics. Antibacterial soap and water are the most commonly cosmetologist’s face, mouth, nose and hair during work hours. used products for cleaning. Pump type soaps are recommended, as bar soaps can encourage the growth of microorganisms. In a survey of Americans by the American Society for Microbiology, 48 percent of respondents reported that they do not The first line of defense in any salon is simple hand washing. wash their hands after petting an animal, 33 percent do not after This is the easiest and most effective way to prevent the spread coughing or sneezing, and 22 percent do not after handling money. of disease, yet it is often the most overlooked. What is the proper way to wash hands? One should wash their hands for about 30 One of the more bacteria- and virus-ridden surfaces in the salon seconds (the amount of time it takes to sing Happy Birthday is the phone. The more it is used, the more it is contaminated. twice), scrubbing the tops, palms and nails of the hands and any Bacteria and viruses can also be present on faucet handles, door exposed portions of the arms with antibacterial soap. handles and sponges, and transfer to hands is highest from hard, nonporous surfaces such as counter tops. Once contaminated, these Antiseptics may also be used for sanitation purposes. However, surfaces can transfer the bacteria and viruses to additional people. they are not a substitute for hand washing when the hands are physically soiled, since they do not clean. The Center for Infection control Disease Control recommends soap and water hand washing Bacteria and viruses are kept out of the body primarily through on hands that are visibly soiled. They are advantageous when unbroken skin. It is therefore extremely important that the immediate germicidal activity is needed and where soap and skin be kept as intact and healthy as possible. Chapped skin water are not immediately available. during the winter months is not unbroken skin. There are many minute breaks in the skin that can allow bacteria and Hand Washing Standard viruses to enter. The skin’s water content and pH are affected Thoroughly wash hands and the exposed portions of arms by hand hygiene. Some of the antibacterial characteristics with antibacterial soap and water before providing services to of the skin come from its normally acidic pH. Soaps are each client and after drinking, eating and using the restroom. generally alkaline in pH (pH greater than 7) and can result in long lasting changes in the pH. Some hand hygiene practices such as frequent washing with detergents can result in dryness, Disinfection irritation, chapping and cracking. Moisturizers can help prevent The second level of infection control is disinfection. Any item that dehydration. For those with dry or damaged skin, it is important is used on a client must be disinfected or discarded. Disinfection to keep the skin moisturized to keep the hands hydrated. must be done with a hospital grade disinfectant, effective against Cosmetologists should not be in the salon if they have a bacteria, viruses, fungi, and pseudomonas. If implements communicable disease. Examples of communicable diseases accidentally come in contact with blood or body fluids, an EPA include ringworm, strep throat, tuberculosis, and head lice. registered tuberculocidal (kills tuberculosis) disinfectant or an The most frequently experienced communicable disease is the EPA-registered disinfectant effective against HIV and HBV common cold. Antibiotics are frequently requested to treat the (Hepatitis B) is required. After mixing, the disinfectant should have cold, yet the antibiotic will not help as the cold is caused by a a pH between 2.6 and 3.2 or between 10 and 11. This will provide virus, and may hurt the patient by allowing resistant bacteria to the most hostile environment possible to the microorganisms, multiply. The best treatment for a cold is home care and rest. without harming the user and the items being disinfected. Indeed no one wants to take off work for a cold, but it can be Disinfectants must be approved by the Environmental Protection eliminated quickly with rest, or can linger for days and even Agency (EPA) and each state. Also, federal law requires weeks without, contaminating everyone and everything around manufacturers to supply salons with Material Safety Data the cosmetologist. Sheets (MSDS) that will include important information such as When is one the most contagious? In the early stages of a directions for proper use. All distributors will provide MSDS on disease, when a person has the beginnings of symptoms. People any item in the salon upon request. are much more likely to acquire an illness from something that Disinfection is only done on non-porous substances such they touch and then transfer the bacteria to their eyes, nose and as tools, implements and countertops. Disinfection is never mouth than by any other route. One must consider that the world performed on the skin as it can harm the skin. around them is contaminated with many viruses and bacteria, and must learn to wash his/her hands. Wet Disinfection Standard Decontamination All tools and implements must be disinfected by complete Decontamination is the removal of pathogens and immersion in an EPA registered disinfectant that is contaminants from tools and surfaces. There are three levels effective against HIV-1 and human hepatitis B virus of decontamination: Sanitation, which is the lowest level, or is Disinfection, which is a higher level, and Sterilization, which is Tuberculocidal that is mixed and used according the highest level of decontamination. to the manufacturer’s directions.

INFORMED Page 57 Disinfection is chemically destroying, or reducing the frequency Formalin was used in the past as a disinfectant and to create of microbes. The ideal disinfectant should be fast acting, be a dry cabinet sanitizer. It has been discovered to cause cancer effective against all types of infectious agents, disinfect without and other health problems and so its use has been discontinued. damaging or discoloring the material, be easy to prepare, be Clean and disinfected implements are now simply stored in a stable when exposed to light, heat, or other environmental dry, covered container until needed. factors, be inexpensive, and not have an unpleasant odor. Ultraviolet (UV) sanitizers are designed for storage of cleaned and Disinfectants commonly used in the salon can include quaternary disinfected implements only. They do not disinfect implements. ammonium compounds. Quaternary ammonium compounds (quats) are surface-active Sterilization agents with the property of producing bacteriostasis in very high Sterilization is the highest level of decontamination. It kills all dilution. Bacteriostasis means that the substance will inhibit organisms on a surface, even bacterial spores. Methods include bacterial growth but does not kill the bacteria. Consequently, the steam autoclave and dry heat. It is not commonly used in removal of quats can result in a resurgence of bacterial growth; the salon. However, it can be used whenever skin is pierced or however, prolonged application can often result in bacterial potential contamination with blood or body fluids is possible. death. That is one reason why it is so important to keep On the other hand, estheticians have access to pre-sterilized implements completely immersed in a disinfectant while giving disposable lancets or needles which may be a simpler solution. a manicure, for instance. In the past, quats did not satisfy all An autoclave is a device used to sterilize equipment. It uses requirements as a hospital grade disinfectant, but now quats are steam under pressure, similar to a pressure cooker, to completely often mixed with other agent(s) to increase their effectiveness. kill all microbes on implements. Exposure to 121 degrees Some people may be concerned with the use of disinfectants Celsius (250 degrees Fahrenheit) for 15+ minutes is typically and their impact on the environment. Unfortunately, “green” sufficient to sterilize. products that are promoted as alternative disinfectants, such as Another type of sterilization requires dry heat, similar to borax, vinegar, ammonia and baking soda are much less effective an oven. To be effective, dry heat typically requires higher than commercially produced disinfectants. The cosmetologist’s temperatures than moist heat. It is also less penetrating and concern is protecting the health and safety of the public, and so typically requires longer exposure. Exposure should be at 171 it is imperative that the correct disinfectants are used to prevent degrees Celsius (340 degrees Fahrenheit) for at least one hour. transmission of disease. EPA product registration should be the basis for purchase and use. Bead sterilizers do not sterilize anything and therefore are misnamed. Sterilization occurs when the implement reaches 171 Sodium Hypochlorite (bleach) is not considered a viable option degrees Celsius for one hour, which doesn’t occur with the bead for salon disinfection anymore. It is unstable, and has the proper sterilizer. The bead sterilizers do not even disinfect implements, disinfectant qualities when mixed, but when used several hours as the entire implement is not immersed in a disinfecting later, may not. It has been replaced by more advanced and more solution. Use of a bead sterilizer in the salon will bring a false reliable disinfectants. It is not recognized by the EPA. sense of security to the cosmetologist and client, while their Items not recommended for disinfection in a salon include health is being compromised. ultrasonic baths used with soap and water, formalin, and UV sanitizers. Ultrasonic baths create bubbles that penetrate into Salon cleanliness the cracks and crevices of implements. They clean very well; The salon must be kept clean and free of any visible dirt or however, they do not disinfect the implements unless used with debris, but more importantly the tools, implements and surfaces a hospital grade disinfectant. of the salon must be kept as disinfected as possible. Surfaces which are recommended to be disinfected with a hospital grade disinfectant include sinks, drinking fountains, shampoo bowls, Disinfection of Whirlpool Foot Spas stations, facial beds, manicure tables, etc. After each customer: ●● Drain water and remove debris. Floors must be swept clean after every haircut, and should be ●● Clean surfaces with detergent and rinse with clean water. mopped on a regular basis. All implements should be free of ●● Disinfect with an EPA-registered Hospital Grade disinfectant. any hair or any other debris, washed in hot soapy water, rinsed ●● Rinse and wipe dry. and then placed in the appropriate hospital grade disinfectant for At the end of each day: 10-15 minutes. At the end of this time, implements should be ●● Remove screen and clean with detergent and clean water. removed safely (using a basket, tongs or gloved hands) rinsed, ●● Immerse screen in an EPA-registered hospital grade allowed to dry and should be placed in a dry sanitizer until the disinfectant for 10-15 minutes. next use. Items that cannot be disinfected should be discarded. ●● Replace screen and flush system with low-sudsing soap Any lotions, creams or liquids should be kept in closed and warm water for 10 minutes. containers and the lid should be replaced immediately after use. ●● Rinse, drain, and air dry. A clean towel should be used on each client. Headrest coverings Once every two weeks: and neck strips must be changed for each client. ●● After daily cleaning, fill foot spa with a 5 percent bleach or Hands must be washed with an antibacterial pump type soap and chlorine solution. ●● Circulate through system for 10 minutes. warm water after touching hair, eyes, or skin. They also must ●● Allow to sit overnight. be washed after every customer, and after eating, drinking and ●● The next day, drain and flush system. using the restroom.

Page 58 INFORMED Proper blood spill procedures must be followed to ensure the Sanitation and Sterilization health and safety of the cosmetologist and the patron. When mixing disinfectants, gloves and safety goggles should Self-Assessment be worn and all directions for mixing followed. One of the Select the best answer for each question and mark your answers most important safety precautions is to first pour water into on the Self-Assessment Answer Sheet on page 89 or complete the container that the disinfectant is being mixed in, and then your test online at www.nccosmo.cme.edu. pour in the disinfectant. This prevents possible splashing of the disinfectant onto the cosmetologist if water is added to the 31. Bacteria have both plant and animal characteristics. disinfectant.  True  False

Blood Spill Procedures 32. Cocci bacteria move about using small hair-like If a cut is sustained: structures called cilia. 1) Stop the service.  True  False 2) Clean the injured area. 3) Apply antiseptic and/or styptic as appropriate without 33. Ringworm (tinea) is an example of an animal parasite touching the skin or wound. that feeds on small amounts of blood from humans. 4) Cover the injury with a dressing. 5) Cover injured area with finger guard or glove.  True  False 6) Clean model, client, and station as appropriate. 7) Double bag all blood-soiled articles, label with red or 34. Pseudomonas, which cause a fungus-like growth, survive orange biohazard warning and dispose. best in warm, moist conditions. 8) Clean hands with antimicrobial cleanser.  True  False 9) Return to service. 35. Communicable diseases are most contagious in the later Cleaning salon surfaces can be accomplished by first washing stages as symptoms begin to lessen. with hot, soapy water to eliminate soil and visible dirt. Then the  True  False surface should be disinfected with an EPA registered disinfectant that is designed for this use. The surface to be disinfected should be flooded with disinfectant for 10 minutes, and then wiped off with a clean dry towel. The surface should then be sprayed with the disinfectant again and allowed to air dry. Tools and equipment should be washed in hot, soapy water. All hair and debris must be removed or the disinfectant will be compromised. A product specifically designed to dissolve all hair is especially helpful and time saving for the cosmetologist in preparing the implements and tools for the disinfectant. The articles are then completely immersed in an EPA registered disinfectant for the proper amount of time (usually 10-15 minutes). They are removed with tongs, a basket, or gloved hands and then rinsed, dried and stored in a dry sanitized container. Directions for the disinfectant must be read carefully as some disinfectants are designed for metal implements so they will not rust, and some are designed for plastic and rubber tools so they are not harmed. If a sponge is used to clean up in the salon, understand that it can harbor high concentrations of pathogens. Sponges can be decontaminated by boiling for 5 minutes, heating in the microwave for 30 seconds, or laundering with detergent and bleach. This will reduce the number of pathogens by 99.9 percent. Conclusion Remember, first impressions are lasting impressions. The word will quickly get out if a salon is dirty. Carelessness with cleanliness equals carelessness with professional skills in many people’s minds. A clean salon will fill clients with confidence in their stylist. Proper decontamination will help to ensure any salon’s success.

INFORMED Page 59 Chapter 8 Retail Concepts (2 CE Hours)

Learning objectives Common ingredients found in hair styling `` Recognize differences in retail products available. products `` Discuss the different categories of cosmetology products. There are some ingredients that one sees listed over and over `` Implement methods to gain and retain clients. in styling products. Here are a few and their purpose in the preparation: What do I do with all of these products? ●● Silicone: An organic compound used to coat the cuticle As a busy professional in the beauty industry, you may find it layer for smoothing and filling in the layers. Also used to is very difficult to keep up with all of the changes and advances stop moisture from penetrating. Benefits include ease in in styling products. For instance, many product lines these days combing, combating frizz, protecting against damage and contain natural ingredients. You may be wondering what their promoting shine. Silicone is a man-made ingredient whose purpose is. Is it just a ploy to make consumers think the products base is silicon, found in sand, clay and granite. It’s found in are better because they contain plant materials? Also, there are many conditioners and styling products designed to control certain ingredients that you hear about over and over. You may the hair without leaving a sticky residue on the hands. wonder, “Why do all of these products contain silicone and Common names include dimethicone, trimethylsilyam polymers?” odimethicone and dimethicone copolyol. ●● Polymer: Whether using gels, mousse, pomades or waxes, Following is a list of natural ingredients and their purposes a key ingredient is polymer, a water-soluble adhesive that in hair care products and then a list of common hair product helps expand the hair by breaking up its surface tension. ingredients and their purposes. This helps build volume into the style. As the water is dried from the hair, the polymer remains. If you add hair spray, Ingredients found in hair styling you get more polymers, making the hair more resistant to products humidity. ●● Panthenol: Water binding, builds body and strength and Natural Ingredients Found in Hair Styling makes hair look and feel thicker, adds Vitamin B. Products ●● Resins: Expand as hair dries so hair looks fuller. Ingredients that are antioxidants (a substance that inhibits the ●● Ceramides: Important oil-soluble compounds (or lipids) destructive effects of oxidation): within hair, responsible for maintaining proper moisture and ●● Sage elasticity. They are used to repair and reinforce the hair’s ●● Red Sage cuticle and restores strength to hair. ●● Gingko biloba ●● Fatty alcohol: A chemical compound that is creamy in ●● Rosemary texture, consisting of a string of many fatty bonds and one ●● Hibiscus alcohol bond that delivers moisturizing properties onto the ●● Hops hair shaft. Common names include cetyl alcohol, coconut ●● Chamomile alcohol, stearyl alcohol or oleic acid. ●● Ethanol: A water-loving volatile alcohol used to deliver Ingredients that add shine: styling polymers onto the hair shaft. It quickly evaporates so ●● Chamomile it does not cause dehydration. ●● Jojoba ●● Oil: A liquid found in plants or minerals that provides ●● Aloe vera moisturizing benefits to the hair shaft. An emollient or ●● Rosemary smoothing agent, it is put in to make the cuticle or outer Ingredients that are emollients: layer of the hair lie flat and help the hair feel smooth. ●● Sunflower extract Common ingredient names include isocetyl stearoyl ●● Wheat germ stearate, isopropyl myristate, mineral oil, petrolatum, ●● Jojoba glycerin and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil. Ingredients that are water-binding: ●● Proteins: A complex chain of amino acids and nitrogen- ●● Quillaja related particles that add gloss and luster, and build body and ●● Algae strength to the hair shaft. They are derived from a variety of ●● Kelp natural sources such as milk, keratin and silk. Common label ●● Panthenol names include hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed soy protein, silk protein and hydrolyzed whole wheat protein. Ingredients that are UV inhibitors: ●● Pro-vitamins: Precursors to vitamins A, B and E that ●● Beta Carotene penetrate the hair shaft to help strengthen the cortex layer, Ingredients that provide pliable texture: increase tensile strength and make hair more flexible and ●● Beeswax elastic. Common label names are biotin, pantethine and panthenol.

Page 60 INFORMED What’s the deal with ions? Shine mists Ceramics, Tourmaline, and ionic hair care tools are some of the Benefits – A shine mist will control frizz and flyaways. It may newest technologies on the block. They use negatively charged provide heat protection and UV protection, but check individual ions to make hair more beautiful. Ions are particles that are either products for this claim. This product is light and won’t weigh positively or negatively charged. When an oxygen atom has an down hair and is easy to apply. extra electron, it is negatively charged, and when the atom lacks Type of hair to use on – Use on any length or texture desiring an electron, it is positively charged. Contrary to the names, the shine and control. negative ion is the desirable ion. Ceramic flat irons, curling irons and blow dryers create negative ions, resulting in shiny and Application – Spritz on hair when it’s completely dry for shiny, silky hair. The ion hair dryer uses negative ions to dry hair faster beautiful hair. and condition the hair. The negative ions generated by the dryer Disadvantages – This product gives no hold. enable the water to better penetrate the hair, moisturizing the hair. More moisture will result in less flyaways and frizzies. Blow drying and finishing crèmes Benefits – A finishing crème will turn dried-out-looking hair Categories of Styling Products into smooth, shiny healthy-looking hair. The product works When manufacturers come out with new products, do you feel to camouflage dryness and instantly moisturizes dry ends. It overwhelmed? Products such as serums, waxes and pomades softens and adds shine, controls frizz, offers heat protection, and will help the client’s finished hairstyle look and perform better. provides a soft-to-medium hold. Also, retailing in your salon will increase if you become familiar Type of hair to use on – Use on hair that needs a conditioning with the products. But, what should you use for any given client styling-aid to achieve a great looking straight effect. and style? Application – Apply to towel-dried hair, avoiding scalp area. Some categories of hair styling products, their benefits, applications, Disadvantages – This product can make hair appear greasy if disadvantages and the type of hair to use them on follow: too much is applied. Serums Root lifters Benefits – A serum is a clear, thick liquid that coats hair, Benefits – A root lifter helps fine, limp hair to have bounce and reflecting light better and helping the hair to look instantly lift. It coats the hair to increase the diameter, thereby increasing shinier. A serum also will take away frizzies, and will tame the the volume of the hair. hair. A very small amount is used per application, making the product very cost, effective for the client. Type of hair to use on – Root lifters are designed for fine or limp hair. Type of hair to use on – Serums are great on medium/coarse hair and for longer-haired clients. They are wonderful on Application – The nozzle is directed at scalp area where lift is straight hair but also good for defining curls and super as a shine needed the most. Dispense product and gently massage into scalp. enhancer on ponytails. Finish by blow drying, setting the hair or allowing it to dry naturally. Applications – Apply from mid-shaft to ends, avoiding the scalp Disadvantages – It is possible to use too much, which can make area because they will make hair limp and greasy looking. You can hair unworkable. apply to dry hair to repel moisture and finish the look and can apply to curls to add separation and give a textured and piecey look. Mousse Benefits – A styling mousse is a very versatile styling aid that works Disadvantages – Overuse of this product may leave hair looking great at the scalp area for lift. It adds volume and hold and it should oily. If the directions state that the serum must be used on wet contain ingredients to give hair shine. It is best for adding volume hair, the client may forget to use it because the frizzies aren’t when blow drying because it contains resins to add fullness to hair. apparent yet in the styling process. It may be too heavy for fine hair and may or may not give protection against heat damage. Type of hair to use on – A mousse is excellent for fine or limp hair. It also can control and defrizz thick or coarse hair or can be Pomade used to give added boost to curls. Benefits – A pomade is a lighter product than wax and contains Application – Shake the bottle, tip it upside down, and dispense a a protective moisture barrier that helps lock out humidity. It golf-ball sized amount in one hand. Rub your hands together and controls flyaways and static and creates texture. It also helps apply from the scalp to the ends. Work the mousse through the hair mold and fix hair into the desired style and adds a light sheen. evenly. If hair is curly, scrunch curls as you dry them. You can also Pomades are great for structuring individual strands and curls for add big rollers when the hair is almost dry for a glamorous look. that “wow” factor. Disadvantages – Mousse may contain alcohol, which will dry Type of hair to use on – Curly hair and any hair needing shine. the hair. The stronger the mousse, the more alcohol it probably Application – Rub a thin layer over palms then apply all over contains. Try to look for alcohol-free versions. short hair to rough it up without dulling it like clay. On longer hair, The manufacturer may offset the drying action of the mousse rub a little into fringes or layers to add texture. A pomade can also with conditioners put into the formula, which is super for be scrunched into longer styles to make them a little messier. chemically treated or dry hair, but fine hair may go limp from Disadvantages – Too much product might give hair a greasy look. too many conditioners in the formula.

INFORMED Page 61 Spray Gels Type of hair to use on – Apply to hair needing texture and Benefits – Spray gels are lighter than ordinary gel and have a definition. medium hold. They generally will not dry crunchy or stiff and Application – Put product on fingertips, rub fingertips and hands will add volume without being too heavy. together and then apply where needed to dry hair Type of hair to use on – Spray gels are great for fine hair, Disadvantages – A little goes a long way, and too much might however they can be used on all hair types for volume, control give the hair a greasy look. and support. Application – Spray the gel from the bottle directly onto hair. Spray wax Work into hair with hands. Benefits – Spray wax is great for creating a quick “bedhead” look. It’s easy to use and has a medium to firm hold. Disadvantages – May not hold hair as firmly as you wish. Type of hair to use on – Any hair needing texture and volume. Glaze Application – Use sparingly on dry hair. Spray and shape as Benefits – Glazes are lighter than gel, but will still add volume desired. without being too heavy. Disadvantages – Spray wax can build up on hair and be difficult Type of hair to use on – Great for fine hair. to remove, especially if it is used heavily. Application – Apply to damp hair. Hard wax Disadvantages – May not give enough control to thick, coarse hair. Benefits – Hard wax creates a moveable finish. It has a firm hold Gel formula and will create a messy, bedhead look. Hard wax creates texture, helps mold and fix hair into its style, and adds a light Benefits – Gel comes in a thicker formulation. It is a water- sheen. It’s great for structuring individual strands and curls for based styling aid that goes on wet and dries to a shiny finish. It is that wow factor. used for shaping and overall design. It can also be applied to dry hair to give a messy look. Type of hair to use on – Hard wax can be used on all hair types, especially for styles needing a product that will give them a Type of hair to use on – It is good for medium to thick/coarse flexible hold, texturizing ability and pliability. hair and will give great control to heavier hair. Gel is used for styling hair, scrunching, molding and sculpting. Application – Use hard wax directly from the stick onto dry hair. On shorter hairstyles, rub the product directly into scalp Application – Put a small amount in hands and rub together. area and work through hair. To detail areas of the head, run stick Apply to towel-dried hair. Work a small amount into short hair to down hair in direction you wish it to stay. create separated, spiky effects or apply all over with the palms of your hands to create a slicked back effect. Blow drying will help Disadvantages – Hard wax can be over applied. set the gel and give you maximum hold. Clay Disadvantages – Avoid on fine or very light hair because the Benefits – Clay products are thick styling aids that give hair client’s scalp will end up showing through. It can dry hard and a matte finish for a more natural effect and a messy, bedhead crisp if allowed to dry without disturbing. effect. They can also be used to give texture to a style and create Gel wax strong definition with firm hold. Clay products are reworkable throughout the day. They can create a bold statement, or they Benefits – Gel wax builds body and fullness like a gel but will help slick the hair back for a polished look without creating defines and shines like a wax.It has the firm hold of a gel but the a shiny or crunchy helmet. flexibility of a wax. It gives lasting volume and piecey texture to fine or limp hair Type of hair to use on – On short hair, use clay to ruffle up the hair. On heavily razored hair, use clay to define texture. On Type of hair to use on – Use on fine, limp hair and those styles longer, wavy hair, squeeze it into the hair for a sexy look. Clays needing hold and control. are great for piecing, and creating gravity-defying styles. Application – Apply desired amount to towel-dried hair and Application – Rub between palms and then apply to scalp area blow dry for medium hold and separation. On styled hair, use it to ruffle up the hair. for strong hold and separation. It can be used to define any look or style, on wet or dried hair. Rub a little into the ends with fingertips to define texture. Clay can be rubbed between palms then squeezed into the hair for a Disadvantages – Gel wax is not for extreme styles because it sexy look. only has a medium hold. Disadvantages – Apply sparingly all over or hair will simply Soft Wax look dirty. Benefits – Soft wax controls curls and adds definition to shorter styles. It can give hair that rock star, very messy, just out of Paste bed look. Soft wax has flexible hold and pliability and controls Benefits – Paste adds extra texture and definition when applied flyaways and static. It has a light to medium hold and texturizes to dry hair. It has a firm hold, but also has the ability to be and shines the hair for separation and definition. It is reworkable moved around. throughout day.

Page 62 INFORMED Type of hair to use on – Pastes are fantastic for thicker hair and Disadvantages – Heat activated straightening products can only for men’s hairstyles. do so much. If the iron is too hot, the hair will still end up dry Application – Apply to dry hair to aid in root lift and volume. and brittle. Disadvantages – Pastes can be over-applied. Clients – How to Gain Them, How to Retain Them (or How to Open a Salon Putty Benefits – Putty is light, but offers a slightly tacky consistency and Keep it Open) for more hold. The product may contain fibers that help to hold hair. It offers shine and definition, but it doesn’t make hair Opening a salon greasy or stiff like some other products do. The hair can be Opening a salon is one of the most exciting events that can happen reworked throughout the day. in a stylist’s career. When opening a salon, how do you determine what prices you will charge for services? Do you just arbitrarily Type of hair to use on – Putty is great for men’s looks or short pick a number out of thin air? Do you determine what every other spiky styles. salon in the area is charging and then pick a number somewhere Application – Work a small amount onto fingertips and apply to in the middle? It’s important to know what the competition is wet or dry hair. Style hair with or without heat. charging, but what if they are all charging $10 for haircuts? Can you make a living and stay in business if you also charge $10? Disadvantages – Putty can be over applied. Fill out the following chart to help determine the pricing for your Glue salon, or to see if your current pricing will allow you to make a Benefits – Glue is fast acting, quick drying, and firm holding for living in your salon. extreme hairstyles. Yearly income Type of hair to use on – Use styling glue on any hairstyle Example needing maximum styling retention. 1. Amount you would like to bring $ $ 20,000 Application – Apply a small amount to damp hair. More may be home for the year. needed for thicker hair. 2. Now add that same amount to the $ $ 20,000 Disadvantages – Glue can be over applied. first number. You need to double the amount you would like to Thermal protection products make because your overhead will Thermal protection products help repair surface damage and take 50 percent of your gross. prevent cuticle cracking, making the hair smoother and more resistant to mechanical damage. A smoother surface and tighter 3. NEW TOTAL $ $ 40,000 diameter will greatly reduce drying time and speed up styling 4. Now, take your original amount $ $ 26,000 time. These products will protect hair from damage and will give and add 30 percent. This is what a flatter, glass-like finish. the government will take from you in taxes, as a business owner. Heat activated thermal spray Example- $20,000 X 1.30=. Benefits – Thermal spray is useful when using a paddle brush to 5. Now, add lines three and four. $ $ 66,000 smooth the hair or a round thermal brush to create body and waves. This is the amount you will It is also great for use with a curling iron to really set the curls. need to bring in for the year to Type of hair to use on – Thermal spray is good for hair that is achieve the income you desire . blow-dried and curled with a curling iron daily. 6. Divide by 50 weeks for amount $ $ 1,320 Application – Spray on damp or dry hair to create a firmer set needed per week. (Assuming a blow-drying or when using the curling iron or hot rollers. two-week vacation each year) 7. Divide by five days for amount $ $ 264 Disadvantages – This product eventually may build up on iron. needed per day (Assuming two Heat activated straightening product days off per week) Benefits – Straightening products help hair go smooth and silky 8. Divide by eight hours for amount $ $ 33 when blow-drying it straight. The product contains silicone, needed per hour. (Assuming an which leaves behind shine when hair is dry. eight-hour workday) Type of hair to use on – Use this product on any hair that needs 9. Divide in two for amount needed $ $ 16.50 to be straightened. per half hour. This is the amount you should be charging for a Application – Apply the product to damp hair. Point the haircut or for every half hour nozzle of the blow dryer from roots to ends to lay cuticle scales increment of service time as a flat. Straighten hair section by section and make sure each is self employed salon owner to completely dry before moving on. For poker straight hair, finish support the lifestyle you want. with a ceramic/tourmaline flat iron.

INFORMED Page 63 Customer service Generally, when thinking of opening a salon, the chief concern Time / Amount is being a financial success. Setting financial goals is great, but Haircut / should not be the sole criterion for company success. Gaining Tint / and keeping clients should be the primary goal of a salon. If this Perm / goal is realized, financial success will follow. Without customers, the shop has no reason to exist. Foil highlight / A shop owner must determine who his or her clients are to help Manicure / define the appropriate customer focus. Also, the shop must Pedicure / determine what clients want in a salon. This entails putting Art nails / yourself in the client’s shoes. Do the clients need more flexible hours? Do they like a Starbucks-type atmosphere to help them Cap highlight / unwind during their appointment, or are they looking for a fun, Spiral perm / high-energy salon where they can get the latest looks? Take a good look at your salon. A client can get a manicure, This will give you your salon pricing. a facial, or a haircut almost anywhere. Why would someone choose your salon over the competitor’s salon, most things being equal? Anyone can provide beauty services with a reasonable degree of accuracy. The key is to provide those services with a Unfortunately, we often think of customer service as only those high level of caring and customer service. instances where one is actively serving the client in an attempt High-quality customer service comes from being proactive. to gain a sale. For example, what is the level of service clients Customer service must be planned. It must be part of the vision receive from the stylist or manicurist? However, customer of your salon, not some afterthought because you are losing service includes everything clients encounter, from the time they business. Clients want to be more than pleased with the service arrive in the parking lot to the time they leave that very parking they receive; they want the feeling that the entire shop considers space. How does the parking lot look? Is the view that of the their business to be vital to its operation. employees gathered outside the door, having a smoke break? How are clients greeted? Do all employees look the part of a To start with, identify simple customer service opportunities professional? Is the salon environment clean, safe, comfortable that will delight clients and contribute to your salon’s success, and relaxing? Are clients escorted to the station or shampoo such as a genuinely enthusiastic greeting. Offering to take the bowl? Are employees knowledgeable about the services offered client’s coat and making sure he or she has something to drink on the salon menu? Are employees also knowledgeable about while filling out the customer questionnaire will get the client’ s the products being used? How is the check-out procedure? Are experience started off on the right foot. clients thanked for their patronage? After you have identified these opportunities, the next question How do you know if your salon is providing good customer you should ask is, “Are we consistent in our customer service?” service? Your salon needs feedback on how well it is meeting Consistency in service from all employees is of the utmost client expectations. Employees must be involved in this process importance for any business. Did everyone in the salon, from by making each employee responsible for ensuring that every receptionist to shampoo person to stylist make the client feel client has an extraordinarily high-quality experience with your welcome? Was everyone accommodating to the client without salon. What about after clients leave? Do they get follow-up making them feel like they were intruding or being a bother? phone calls to check on their satisfaction? An easy way to There can be no lapses in the level of service from employees increase client satisfaction is to implement follow-up phone because the customers will not remember the 15 positive calls. After every appointment, a staff member should contact encounters with various employees during a salon service, clients to make sure everything about the salon experience was but rather the one rude or curt encounter. One underpaid and pleasing. This will give your salon members immediate feedback disgruntled receptionist or shampoo person can destroy a salon. on things you are doing correctly and incorrectly. Another Think of how many client experiences they can influence either method of gaining feedback is to mail out surveys. Customer negatively or positively. surveys sent out the day after an appointment (with, of course, a self-addressed, stamped envelope) will allow the salon to get Service pricing for your salon feedback and to tweak its customer service. Now determine how long it takes you to do each service and then multiply your half-hour base amount by that time length to Remember: What one team member considers excellent determine the prices you should charge. Remember, while a tint service can be drastically different from another team member’s is processing, you can do a haircut. While a perm is processing, view of service. The only way to ensure that everyone is on you can do one or two haircuts, so you don’t need to charge the the same page is to have written guidelines, consistent and whole amount to the tint or perm. ongoing training, and reinforcement from the top down. Don’t assume everyone knows the proper way to greet a client, or Example: You need $20 every half hour. It takes you 1½ hours the proper way to escort the client to the stylist’s station. Go to do a tint, with a haircut in between. You charge the haircut over every possible interaction with clients and how you would $20, and the tint $40 for your services. You will still end up with like your employees to handle them. You may have to go over $60 coming in for 1½ hours of your time. these interactions periodically at staff meetings, and then make

Page 64 INFORMED certain everyone is following these guidelines by monitoring be surprised by the number of creative solutions you can come up communication between your staff members and clients. with. The most important thing is that employees are empowered This will help your salon to manage the balance between gaining to do whatever it takes to deliver genuine customer service. Your new clients and retaining clients already present. Studies show dedication to this will far outweigh any minor inconveniences at that retaining a client is much more important than gaining a the time and will be rewarded with loyal repeat customers. new client, and long-term client relations clearly affects the A salon owner or manager must also evaluate all the possible salon’s growth and financial results. It costs five to seven times interactions that could form a negative impression on clients more to find new customers than to retain current ones. Ninety- and look for opportunities to improve and deliver service that eight percent of dissatisfied customers never complain; they just exceeds expectations. switch to other competitors. Imagine a restaurant, late in the evening, with almost no Totally satisfied customers are six times more likely to customers. A couple arrives weary from traveling all day, just purchase again than are merely satisfied customers. Imagine needing a place to get a bite to eat. The waitress takes the you and your staff making it the salon’s primary goal to try to couple’s order and returns with their beverages. She removes the totally satisfy every customer. If you do that and can attain a straws from her apron and begins to put them on the table. One 5 percent reduction in clients who leave your salon because of straw paper has become dampened and has torn. The waitress dissatisfaction, you will certainly profit. A 5 percent reduction in stands looking at the straw for a few seconds, and then asks the clients who defect to other salons can result in profit increases customer, “You didn’t want a straw, did you?” This is a true ranging from 30 percent - 85 percent. Who wouldn’t want a 30 story, and a shining example of poor customer service. percent increase in business from one year to the next? Now imagine a shoe store, and a customer looking for running Employees must be trained (or hired in the first place because shoes. Upon carefully picking out the right pair with the help they have been identified to have this trait) to understand that of the sales associate, the salesperson discovers that the store is at your salon, it’s not a problem to go out of their way for their out of his size. However, when he tells the customer, the sales clients. Also, you need employees who can identify a problem, associate also says he has already determined the closest store and instead of being negative or making excuses for the problem, that has this shoe in stock and has come up with a plan to get the can quickly identify a solution. shoe to this store. What a “wow” experience! Nemacolin Woodlands Spa, a destination spa located in Hiring and training correctly Pennsylvania, has one key motto that drives everything they do. Most of the current graduates from beauty academies are If asked ANY question by a client, the answer is “Yes,” and then members of the Internet Generation. They are used to logging the goal becomes how to make that request a reality. The answer on to the Web and doing research, checking e-mail and chatting is never “Maybe,” or “I’ll see if that’s possible.” The employees with friends. The newspaper, with its expensive classified ads and are trained to respond “Yes.” limited distribution, is not the first place your future employees There is often a certain stigma associated with being labeled a will look when they are ready for the job market. They tend to “yes-man.” But, what about when it comes to providing great fire up their laptops and let their mouse do the work. customer service? Isn’t this the best time to be a yes-man? After Make sure you hire individuals who are truly a good fit to all, the customer is essentially your boss. They spend the money succeed in the position you have open. Every employee hired that eventually comes back to you in the form of a paycheck. will be a customer service representative. They represent your Wouldn’t your organization rise to new heights if everyone tried salon. You can not afford to hire a stylist with impressive to be more of a yes-man when it came to customer service? credentials who does not embrace your vision of a client-first Giving authority to stylists to solve clients concerns without the atmosphere. The stylist may have great technical skills but will need for management intervention empowers the stylists and discourage repeat patrons if they are not properly handled. Nail results in greater client satisfaction. Many salons will not allow techs can encourage or discourage clients from getting hair their stylists to say “yes” to a client trying to get satisfaction services at the salon. Receptionists can drive away potential for an unfavorable appointment or for a product that is a poor clients with unfriendly phone etiquette. match to the client, unless given authorization by a manager. The salon work environment should emphasize trust and Then the manager is asked to talk to the client and gives the teamwork, focused on providing excellent customer service. client everything the person asked for. The client wonders why Clients should never be made to feel they cannot move around the employee was being so disagreeable, and the manager gets stylists within the salon, or that they are the “property” of a to look like the hero. Wouldn’t it be better if every employee particular stylist. This will hurt the salon as a whole, rather than in your salon got to look like the hero to your clients? Imagine building it up. Salon employees with an attitude of teamwork every employee solving problems and making customers happy. will work together, helping each other out with clients when Your salon would grow by leaps and bounds. behind, shampooing for each other or rinsing texture services or Naturally, there will be occasions where accommodating a tint out. The clients should feel comfortable with the staff as a customer’s wishes is just not possible. But what if your salon whole. When a client’s desired stylist is booked for a potential thought proactively about some situations where it would be appointment, it should not be a problem for another stylist to step impossible to say yes. Consider some creative solutions to the in and take care of the client, if that’s all right with the client. problem that would make your customer satisfied and feel as if the Once you hire a stylist, how do you get them to stay with your request was in some way granted. Discuss these situations with salon? Stylists, nail techs, and estheticians are no longer easily your employees at staff meetings. Brainstorm solutions. You will

INFORMED Page 65 dispensable. They represent the salon’s first market. If the salon selling, or retail sales. This will cost you a little out-of-pocket is not investing in and listening to employees as well as clients, expense, but will earn you a lot of good will and a definite it is probably missing opportunities to create a competitive edge increase in your bottom line as stylists strive more and more to in their salon. earn recognition and bonuses. High turnover in salons can only be addressed through the Marketing the salon employee being able to trust in the salon to provide equitable Developing a marketing plan involves identifying a niche for pay, training and advancement. Make sure that your employees your salon, summarizing your objectives, preparing a strategy, are well trained and highly motivated. Put together a commission and monitoring its success. Will your business be the convenient, structure or sales incentives that are in line with other salons no appointment needed salon for busy families or will it be in the area. Research other salons and what they offer in terms the one-of-a-kind quirky boutique on the corner, filled with of salary and benefits. If you are not competitive, your stylists interesting décor and knickknacks? What kind of salon will will find this out and will go looking for other salons with succeed in your area? What kind of data can you use to make better benefits and salary. If these concerns are not addressed, your decision? Identify your target customers, their per capita employees will not stay around long enough to become effective income, age, sex, geographic locations and attitudes. This team members. Effective team members will be empowered to information helps you to decide whether to enter or abandon a create happy clients, and happy clients buy more from your salon. market niche. Communication with your employees on a regular basis will Once you settle on a direction for the salon, how will you help keep them happy in their jobs. Create opportunities to monitor whether it is a success? Just as a coach adjusts his game communicate with your employees; and make sure they know plan at half time, so must an entrepreneur periodically update their roles, job description and responsibilities within your salon: his or her marketing program to stay ahead of the competition. 1. Write up an employee handbook and enforce the rules in To be effective, a marketing plan must be a living document, it. Make sure all employees are treated equally and avoid a responsive strategy that provides the fuel and direction that favoritism at all costs. drives a company forward. When updating a marketing strategy, 2. Have regular staff meetings to communicate new company assess what’s working and what’s not. If a strategy is not policies or initiatives to ensure everyone is on the same bringing in and keeping clients, drop it and try something else. page. Include your employees in decision making. This will ensure that employees will own the decisions and will have Branding is one way to have your salon stand out among the an interest in enforcing them. competition by communicating your business’ core attributes 3. Give staff members feedback frequently. This will keep and qualities. It also creates a simple but instinctive association performance levels high and will reinforce positive of those qualities in the minds of your potential customers. For behavior. example, if you want a strong, tough pickup truck, you think of 4. Create mentoring relationships among staff, where more Ford: “Built Ford tough”; if you want to “Have it your way,” you experienced employees share techniques and information think of Burger King. with less experienced staff members. Branding can be a very important part of your overall One way to ensure loyalty from your staff is to give employees marketing plan. It includes creating a compelling name for the a chance to balance their professional and personal lives by salon, creating a logo and creating a style for your salon. The being as accommodating as you can with scheduling. Imagine style should be well thought out, with a color scheme that is the employee loyalty when stylists or estheticians know they can consistently maintained in all correspondence, the salon menu, use flex scheduling to ensure they don’t miss their child’s soccer and décor. What response do you want from potential clients game. A little preplanning and give-and-take on your part will when they see your name, logo and style? Do you want them to make much happier employees. see the salon as hip and modern, serene and calming, or elegant and refined? This image can be conveyed to them through Another way to ensure employee loyalty is to make sure stylists keeping your style consistent. have an opportunity for advancement. This may mean having a sliding scale with commission percentages increasing with an Another way to ensure your salon will stand out is to put increase in business or by allowing stylists to advance within the together a mission statement for your salon. A mission statement company. One salon in Ohio promotes advancement by allowing forces you to think about your salon’s goals and where you see employees to buy into the company, expanding and opening new the salon going in the future. As a part of the mission statement, salons with key employees allowed to purchase larger-shares create a slogan that states what the key attributes of your of the new salons with an increase in compensation and also business are that sets it apart from other salons. responsibility. The stylists get to become salon owners but do not When assessing your salon, don’t forget to monitor your end up competing with the original salon; instead they become a competition. Your competition includes companies that are partner salon. selling essentially the same product to the same customer, as A third way to ensure employee loyalty is to recognize well as those offering alternative products or services. Examples employees who demonstrate the quality of plain hard work. include nail salons, spas, skin care salon, and beauty salons. A People love recognition for a job well done, and something simple method for tracking the competition includes keeping as simple as monthly thank-you gestures in the form of gift a file on each competitor. Whenever you come across a flyer, a certificates or salon tools will go far in recognizing team newspaper ad or article, dump it into the folder. Review the file members who go above and beyond in service dollars, up- each month to check prices, marketing strategy and such. If a

Page 66 INFORMED salon is experiencing a lot of success, try to identify what they both methods of advertising cost the client money. Nevertheless, are doing right. Will this same strategy work in your salon? if clients like the convenience of receiving notices of specials Your location can be a major marketing tool for you. When from you and give you permission to contact them in this choosing where to open your business, is a shopping mall ideal manner, by all means take advantage of this access to them. for your salon or a stand alone site? Be sure to check whether the Collect the e-mail addresses of your clients by asking for it when parking is easily accessible, safe and convenient. Will foot traffic they make appointments, buy merchandise, or pay for services. help you to achieve your sales objectives? Install attractive Simply ask, “May I have your e-mail address so we can contact signage on your building and around your business location. you with specials and coupons?” All e-mail addresses collected Drive by or walk by your location. Can you read the sign? Is it should be entered into a database or into the Guestbook page of obvious what you do at your place of business? your website (if you have one) so that you may include the client Marketing doesn’t end when the client enters the door of your in future mailings. salon. Make sure to budget money for a service menu that With the increase in business being done over the Internet, it is entices the client to request services based on the luxurious a good idea to create and promote a website for your salon. This feel of the brochure and wonderful descriptions of the services. should be a key element of your marketing strategy if you want Careful use of desktop publishing programs on high quality to be competitive now and in coming years. Afraid you can’t paper with spell check can be a cost-effective way to get the afford a web designer, and don’t know how to create a website word out about your services. However, poorly done menus full yourself? Contact your local high school, technology center, or of spelling mistakes will do more harm than good. If you do not college to find students who love to do this kind of work and will have the computer skills to make up a great menu, take it to a likely charge you far less than a professional. professional printer. If your website requires information to be entered before being A good marketing tool that most people would not consider would able to access the site, or includes a “for more information” area be a computerized bookkeeping program. A good bookkeeping where names and e-mail addresses are entered, you will have the program can save you a substantial amount of money in your means to gather an entire database of prospective clients to send salon and can give you a lot of valuable information that can be e-mail promotions and specials. put to good use. A bookkeeping computer program will more than Publish your website’s address EVERYWHERE! At little or no pay for itself in time saved and productivity. It should be able to cost, you can put it on: track which services are the most popular, and which are the least ●● Salon and stylists business cards. popular. It should also be able to let you know which services ●● Stationary, letterhead and envelopes. are the most profitable. It should track retail sales and alert you ●● Fax cover sheets. when reordering is necessary and in what quantities. It will also let ●● Note cards and pads. you know what times of the day are busiest so you can schedule ●● Message pads. employees more efficiently. ●● Appointment cards. Direct marketing ●● Checks and invoices. ●● Brochures, pamphlets and fliers. Traditionally, direct marketing has involved the use of the U.S. ●● Thank-you notes. Postal Service and the telephone. Recently, direct marketing has ●● Name tags. grown to include fax, e-mail, instant messaging, text messaging ●● Rubber stamps and labels. and voice mail. ●● Postage meter and receipt tape. When using traditional direct mail advertising, mail out specials ●● Price tags and shopping bags. and promotions to your current clients. Another idea is to find ●● Packing materials. another area business that may share a similar client base and do Consider having your website address printed on any office a cross promotion mailing. Consider partnering with a day spa, supplies you need to order, such as: sun tanning spa or massage therapist and sending a promotion to ●● Pens and pencils. customers of both businesses. ●● Mouse pads. Some methods of marketing, such as e-mail advertisements, can ●● Paperclip holders. be perceived in a negative light if the marketing is unsolicited ●● Letter openers. and unwanted. Deleting huge quantities of unwanted e-mails every day is frustrating and a time robber. However, if you only When giving out special items for your salon’s anniversary or a send information and special offers to clients who have given holiday, make sure your salon’s web address is on items such as: you their e-mail address and cell phone number, knowing it ●● Magnets. will be used for that purpose, you will not generate negative ●● Calendars. feedback. Many salon clients will welcome e-mail reminders and ●● Mugs. specials, and text messaging a reminder about their appointment ●● Balloons. to your younger clientele can be very effective. However, you ●● Tee shirts and hoodies. must secure permission from clients before sending any business Once you have a website, one avenue of advertising that is correspondence to their fax machines or by calling or texting worth your while to explore is pay-per-click local/regional web them on their cell phone. Commercial advertising both to fax advertising. You place an ad on the Internet but you don’t pay machines and to mobile phones has been banned, mostly because for it unless a potential customer finds your ad and takes the

INFORMED Page 67 action to click through to your website. You might wonder how When it’s all said and done, you need to look at every aspect of that could possibly benefit a small area salon. It is because you your business as if you were seeing it for the first time. Make can target local businesses and services in your area that do get sure you are charging enough to make a living from your salon. a lot of Internet traffic and place your ad only on their websites. Hire correctly and treat your employees well. Review your For instance, your local news station has a website and many marketing strategies on a regular basis, but most of all, treat the people visit it during the day when checking on the weather or client like royalty and enjoy your salon’s success! breaking news stories. Everyone who is trying to see whether to take an umbrella to work with them for the day will be exposed References: to an advertisement of your salon. It is then their choice whether • “23 Ways to Finally Beat Those Bad Hair Days; Emma Johnson Looks at Great Gadgets or not to respond to the ad. Your return on your investment can and Powerful Potions to Tame Your Tresses.” Daily Post (Liverpool, England) : 6. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 . be ten times as high as traditional yellow page advertising, print, • “BEAUTY: STYLING PRODUCTS SUSSED; Don’t Know Your Putty from Your radio or TV advertising. Pomade? Clueless about Clay and Mystified by Mousse? We Asked Celebrity Hairdresser Michael Douglas* to Explain Exactly What You’re Meant to Be Doing with All Those Radio and TV advertising is probably too cost prohibitive Cans, Tins, Pumps and Sprays.” Sunday Mirror (London, England) 23 Jan. 2005: 42. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 . for a single salon. However, if you own several salons in an • Cobella, Beverly. “Hair Special: Brunettes Are Back; If You’re Looking for Inspiration area, it may work for you. Make sure you track your return on to Freshen Up Your Dull Winter Hair, Read on. We’ve Teamed Up with Beverly Cobella, GMTV’s Hair Guru and Creative Consultant to Head & Shoulders, to Give You the Low- investment to make sure it is worth your advertising dollars. Down on New Looks.Starting with Colour.” Sunday Mirror (London, England) 20 Feb. When a new client comes into the salon, they should be filling 2000: 27. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 . out a form with one of the questions being “How did you hear • Fletcher, Martyn. “Frizzy or Fine, Keep That Shine; YOU CAN MAKE THAT SLEEK SALON SHINE LAST FOREVER . . . IF YOU HAVE THE RIGHT STUFF ON YOUR about our salon?” BATHROOM SHELF. MARTYN FLETCHER IS YOUR GUIDE THROUGH THE HAIR CARE JUNGLE.” Sunday Mirror (London, England) 22 Mar. 1998: 47. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 . Yellow page advertisements • “Hair Peace; Great Locks Is Matter of Right Chemistry.” The Washington If using traditional yellow pages advertising, stay away from Times 18 Mar. 2004: B01. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 . • Jones, Coy A. “Extraordinary Customer Service Management: THE CRITICAL entice a person to call your salon. If you are going to spend the SUCCESS FACTORS.” Business Perspectives Summer 2000: 26. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 money, use the space to put a provocative, thought-provoking . • Welch, Tricia, and Amanda Bradbury. “The Hair Doctor’s Clinic; with British Hairdresser statement into the ad, or use a well-thought-out slogan. of the Year, Umberto Giannini.” The Mirror (London, England) 4 Apr. 2000: 26. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 . You want to get the prospective client’s attention, generate • “YourLife: TakeSix. Hair Shine Serums I; THE PAGE WHERE YOU PUT EVERYDAY interest, create desire and spark some attention. One way to do ITEMS TO THE TEST.” Coventry Evening Telegraph (England) 20 Feb. 2006: 18. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 . this is to make a claim in your ad. You may want to claim that • About.com:Beauty. “The Scoop on the Goop.” 27 Nov. 2007 . Will anyone be able to dispute this? Can you really determine if • Style Hair Magazine.com. “Hair Wax, Clay, Mud, Paste & Putty Texturizing Products.” • 27 Nov. 2007 . this is true or not? No one will ever know which salon has the • Folica.com. “TIGI Bed Head Headrush Shine Mist.” 04 Dec. 2007 . • Hairstyle.com, Hair Products for Men. “Hair Style Products.” 04 Dec. 2007 . is placing a copy of a business card in the Yellow Pages. Another • Eva Beauty. “Brocato Hair Care Products” 04 Dec. 2007 . way to get attention for your business is to have fun with an ad • Hair Care USA. “Alterna Professional Haircare” 06 Dec. 2007 . owner guarantees texturizing service will put more bounce in • Delaney, Joan. “Crafting a Marketing Plan That Works.” Black Enterprise Nov. 1994: 120+. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 . your step than Beyonce,” will certainly attract more attention • Jones, Coy A. “Extraordinary Customer Service Management: THE CRITICAL than a run-of-the-mill ad. SUCCESS FACTORS.” Business Perspectives Summer 2000: 26. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 . You could also make a big promise or offer in your ad, “You’ll • Shiman, Daniel R. “An Economic Approach to the Regulation of Direct Marketing.” Federal Communications Law Journal 58.2 (2006): 321+. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 . offer like this, afraid the clients will take advantage of the salon. • Wright, Patrick M., and Scott A. Snell. “Highlights of the Human Resource Planning Society’s 2002 State-of-The Art & Practice Study: Managing Strategic, Cultural The truth is that a big promise or offer’s ability to land sales far and HRM Alignment to Maximize Customer Satisfaction and Retention.” Human outweighs its potential cost. Most salons already will refund Resource Planning 25.2 (2002): 45+. Questia. 10 Dec. 2007 . • BusinessSeek.biz Business Directory. “Salon Marketing That Sells Like Crazy: Use this guarantee to gain sales rather than as a fall-back in the Marketing Strategies.” 21 Nov. 2007 event of an unhappy client. • . • PowerHomeBiz.com. “Opening a Beauty Salon.” 21 Nov. 2007 . • SalonBuilder, Salon Business Development-Keys to Salon Business Success. “Salon as a marketing strategy. Discounting is a bad idea. If you resort Website Marketing and Spa Web Marketing (Part 4).” 27 Nov. 2007 . cheaper. It will put a big hole in your bottom line, and your • SalonBuilder, Salon Business Development-Keys to Salon Business Success. “Salon Recruiting and Human Resources (Part 5).” 27 Nov. 2007 . time. Instead of discounting, make an offer. Making an offer is • SalonBuilder, Salon Business Development-Keys to Salon Business Success. “Keys to Running a Successful Salon or Spa Business (Part 2).” 27 Nov. 2007 . receive a coupon good for one eyebrow wax.” Not only do you • SalonBuilder, Salon Business Development-Keys to Salon Business Success. “Salon Marketing and Spa Marketing (Part 3).” 27 Nov. 2007 . a new service they may want to continue in the future. Bottom line, there is more potential income coming into your salon.

Page 68 INFORMED • The Rainmaker Group, Customer Experience, The Sinecera Way. “Being a “yes-man” helps to create customer experience” 10 Jan. 2007. 27 Nov. 2007 . • The Rainmaker Group. “Useful Tips to Improve Employee Retention in Your Self-Assessment Organization” • 27 Nov. 2007 <. Select the best answer for each question and mark your answers • The Rainmaker Group, Customer Experience, The Sinecera Way. “Consistency is Key to on the Self-Assessment Answer Sheet on page 89 or complete Creating an Exceptional Customer Experience” 24 Apr. 2007. 27 Nov. 2007 . your test online at www.nccosmo.cme.edu. • The Rainmaker Group, Customer Experience, The Sinecera Way. “The Importance of Touch Points in Providing Exceptional Customer Service and Creating a Powerful Customer Experience” 16 Mar. 2007. 27 Nov. 2007 . styling products, are emollients. • The Rainmaker Group, Customer Experience, The Sinecera Way. “Creating Powerful Customer Service by Exceeding Expectations” 01 Feb. 2007. 27 Nov. 2007 . • The Rainmaker Group, Customer Experience, The Sinecera Way. “Customer Service Defined by Four Little Words” 24 Jan. 2007. 27 Nov. 2007 . hair dries so that the hair looks fuller.  True  False

38. Ceramic flat irons, curling irons and blow dryers create positive ions which increase the silkiness and shininess of hair.  True  False

39. Thermal protection products prevent cuticle cracking and make hair more resistant to mechanical damage.  True  False

40. In order to be effective, a marketing plan must be a static document that is adhered to closely by all staff members.  True  False

INFORMED Page 69 Chapter 9 Tax Responsibilities for the Personal Service Worker A Guide for Employers, Employees and Booth Renters (2 CE Hours)

Learning objectives especially with regard to tip income. This activity is designed to `` Determine the taxability of income. give you a basic working knowledge of income tax requirements `` Recognize the specific tax forms on which certain types of that apply to your individual business arrangement. Believe it or income are to be reported. not, you will have definite advantages by complying with IRS `` Discuss record keeping responsibilities of the Personal tax laws. Service Professional, especially with regard to reporting tips “All income you receive must be reported on your to employers. income tax return, including tips.” `` Determine the similarities of and differences between In general, you need to know that all income you receive from “employer,” “employee,” “independent contractor” and your work, whether in the form of wages, commissions, tips, sales, “booth renter.” or rent whether by cash, check, or charge, is taxable. You also `` Identify the tax responsibilities of each of these types of need to know the requirements concerning reporting your income workers. on your tax return and to your employer (if you are an employee). `` Identify which business expenses are deductible and which are not. If operating as a booth renter, all income received (including `` Identify the benefits of properly reporting income and the tips) must be reported on the appropriate income tax return such disadvantages of not doing so. as Individual Income Tax Return Form 1040, Schedule C. Both `` Discuss the different types of retirement plans and income and employment taxes must be paid. opportunities available to Personal Service Professionals. Whether you prepare your own tax return or pay a tax preparer, `` Identify educational credits and benefits available to Personal you need to know enough about the tax law so you can minimize Service Professionals that wish to attend college or other potential problems that could be costly in terms of time and money. post-secondary educational institutions. `` Identify specific resources and publications made to the Section 1. Tax Laws And Forms Personal Service Professional for further assistance in understanding tax responsibilities. There are three main sources of revenue or income in the Personal Service Industry: fees for services, sale of retail Foreward products and the rental of space. Your income may come from As a licensed Personal Service Worker (PSW), you are required one or all of these sources. However, you must remember: to follow a number of laws, rules, and regulations designed to ensure the continued health, safety, and well-being of “All income is taxable” your clients. As a business professional you are also required Internal Revenue Code Section 61 provides that all income from to follow specific tax guidelines that affect your business whatever source is taxable, unless it is specifically excluded by arrangement and its profitability. statute. In the case of Personal Service Professionals, taxable income includes payments such as wages, commissions, client This continuing education activity has been produced by fees and tips. INFORMED through direct interaction and assistance from the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) Taxpayer Education Division to Examples of taxable income: educate and inform all members of the personal service industry. Wages – Wages consist of “per hour,” “per day,” or “per week” This activity offers an overview of the basic tax issues that you monies paid by an employer to an employee. need to be aware of as you go about your day-to-day business. It is not intended to be the only guide you should use as tax laws Example: change over time. This activity is designed to offer a general overview of your federal tax obligations and the benefits of A cosmetologist is paid $300.00 per week regardless complying with federal tax laws. of the number of services completed or products sold. For questions regarding federal tax matters, course participants are urged to seek the assistance of tax professionals or to contact Commissions – Commissions consist of percentages paid by the IRS directly. A listing of resources in these matters is given at an employer to an employee based on the total amount paid by the end of this chapter. All Personal Service Workers completing clients for services of retail products. this education are encouraged to review these publications available FREE from the IRS. Example:

Introduction A nail technician is paid 40 percent of the total fee Whether you are operating as a salon owner, an employee, or paid by each client plus 20 percent of the total price booth renter (independent contractor), you need to be aware paid by a client for all products sold. of federal income tax requirements regarding your income,

Page 70 INFORMED Tips – Tips consist of cash, goods, or services paid by a client also wages for purposes of the applicable withholding taxes, directly to the Personal Service Worker in addition to the price of provided the employee receives $20.00 or more in tips in a the service. Note that tips do not necessarily apply only to cash calendar month. An employee who receives tips of less than and they also do not apply only to tips paid in cash. Goods and $20.00 in a calendar month does not have to report the tips to his services as well as tips paid by credit card or check or tips left at or her employer; however, the tips must be reported as income the salon station are considered as taxable income. on the employee’s income tax return. Internal Revenue Code Section 6053(a) requires that an Example: employee who receives tips of $20.00 or more in any one month must report all such tips on a written statement which must be A facial specialist is given a concert ticket worth given to the employer. This report must be done at least once a $20.00 as a tip for services performed. The value of month and no later than on the 10th calendar day of the following the ticket is taxable, for income tax. If the specialist is month after the tips are received. The employer may ask that an employee, the value of the ticket is not reported to these tips be reported more often than once a month; daily, the employer as a part of tips received, but it must be weekly or before each pay period, for example. reported in her tax return. This reporting ensures accurate determination of withholding for Employees will generally report the types of income listed above Income, Social Security, and Medicare taxes. As an employee, full on forms 1040EZ, 1040A, or 1040. disclosure of your tip income will maximize your Social Security benefits as well as provide you with a number of other, possibly unexpected, benefits that we will discuss later in this section. NOTE Reporting your tips correctly is not difficult. You must do If the Personal three things: Service Worker is 1. Keep a daily record. Self-Employed, they 2. Report tips to your employer. must use form 1040 3. Include all tips as income on your tax return. to report these types of income. Keeping records Every person liable for any tax is required to keep records, Client fees – Client fees consist of the entire fee a client pays statements, receipts, and returns. Under Internal Revenue Code for services performed. The full fee is a gross receipt to the salon Section 6001, these documents must be made available to a if the worker is an employee. If the worker is a booth renter or representative of the Internal Revenue Service upon request, independent contractor, the full fee is gross receipts to the worker. to determine whether or not a person is liable for tax. The Internal Revenue Code Section 7602 gives authority to the IRS examiners to request these records. Example:

A cosmetologist is paid a fee of $25.00 for a Section 2. DEFINITIONS AND shampoo/condition and cut plus a $5.00 tip. If the RESPONSIBILITIES cosmetologist is a booth renter, the full $30.00 is Business owners in the Personal Service Industry structure gross receipts to him/her and must be reported on their businesses in various ways. Personal Service Workers will Schedule C of Form 1040. choose salons with the business arrangement that suits them best. This section describes the most common business arrangements Other forms of taxable income (examples): and the federal tax responsibilities for each. ●● A shop owner/landlord that receives $700.00 rent from a booth renter must report such income on Schedule E, Form Your federal income tax responsibilities are based upon 1040. your employment status. In the previous chapter, there was ●● A booth renter that shows net profit after expenses of $7,000.00 considerable discussion regarding the terms “employee” and must report such income on Schedule C, Form 1040. “employer.” This section will further define the differences between these terms and examine the two basic types of Two terms that are used in the Internal Revenue Code are employment status; “employee” and “self-employed.” “income” and “wages.” Amounts that are included in “income” are subject to federal income tax, and a person computes what Employee is owed for federal income tax on Form 1040. Amounts that are A person who works for another in exchange for compensation included in “wages” are subject to federal income tax as well, may be an employee. Many newly licensed Personal Service but are also subject to withholding taxes such as federal income Workers go to work as employees of existing salons or shops. tax withholding, Social Security Taxes, and Medicare Taxes. The salon generally sets work hours, provides supplies, tracks appointments and collects all receipts. The employee is paid More information regarding tips either a salary, a commission, or a combination of the two. As mentioned before, all tips are income subject to federal Factors that may indicate you are an employee include: income tax. Generally, Internal Revenue Code Section 3121(q) ●● Required uniforms. and 340(f) provides that all tips received by an employee are ●● Required hours.

INFORMED Page 71 Tip Reporting Forms These forms have been recreated for use in this publication.

Figure 1: Forms 4070 and 4070A (Excerpted) ●● Worker does not handle own sales receipts. 1-800-829-FORM (3676) or online at http://www.irs.gov/ pub/ ●● Worker does not make own appointments. irs-pdf/p1244.pdf and includes places for you to record: ●● Business owner provides training. ●● Your name, address and Social Security Number. ●● Business owner provides towels, smocks, etc. ●● Employer’s name and address. ●● The name of the establishment in which you worked. Employee tax responsibilities ●● Period during which the tips were received. If you are an employee of a salon you should receive a Form ●● The amount of tips received. W-2, Wage and Tax Statement, from your employer at the end ●● The amount of tips paid out to other employees. of each year. You must report your tips to your employer so that ●● Name of the employee to whom you paid tips. they may be included on your Form W-2. You must report your If you fail to report all tips to your employer, you will include wages on Form 1040, 1040A or 1040EZ, U.S. Individual Tax these unreported tips on Form 4137, Social Security and Return. You must report all income received from all employers, Medicare Tax on Unreported Tip Income, and report them on whether the payment was made by check or cash and whether or Form 1040, U.S. Individual Income Tax Return. You will pay not the income is included on Form W-2 or Form 1099. your share of Social Security and Medicare Tax, and you may As mentioned in the previous section, taxable income includes: be subject to a penalty of 50 percent of the Social Security and ●● Wages. Medicare Tax due for not reporting your tips to your employer. ●● Tips. ●● Payments for services. Independent contractor ●● Commissions for product sales. If you work for yourself rather than for another, you are As an employee, you must keep a running daily log of all not an employee. You are considered self-employed, or and your tip income. You can use Publication 1244, Employee’s independent contractor, in business for yourself. Daily Record of Tips and Report to Employer, to record your If you have an arrangement or contract with a business owner tip income. Publication 1244 includes Form 4070, Employee’s to provide certain services, you may be either an employee or Report of Tips to Employer, and Form 4070A, Employee’s Daily an independent contractor. Whether you are an employee or an Record of Tips. This publication is available by calling the IRS at independent contractor depends on the facts and circumstances, including some of the factors listed in the “EMPLOYEE” section.

Page 72 INFORMED A contract that states that you are an independent Example contractor does not automatically mean you are an independent contractor for tax purposes! Jane Smith is a cosmetologist who owns Jane’s Salon. Her friend, James Doe, recently received his cosmetology If you are receiving payments from the business and you are an license. Jane has agreed to let James rent a workstation for a independent contractor (self-employed), you should receive a Form fixed monthly fee. Jane will furnish air conditioning, lights, 1099-MISC showing payments to you by the business owner. and water. James will order all of his other supplies and will set up his own appointments. James is just starting out and Factors that may indicate that you are an independent contractor he hasn’t built up a steady clientele. His work hours will and not an employee include: vary, but this won’t be a problem because he will have a key ●● Having a key to the salon. to the shop. Jane Smith is the shop owner and landlord. Jane ●● Setting your own schedule. receives no other payments from James other than a fixed ●● Purchasing your own products. monthly fee. Subject to the fixed monthly fee he pays Jane, ●● Having your own telephone number. James is entitled to keep all fees and tips that he earns from his customers and does not account to Jane for the fees that Independent contractor tax responsibilities he receives. He determines his own work routine. James is a ●● You should receive Form 1099-MISC from the salon owner. booth renter who is an independent contractor. ●● You must report all of your income (including tips) on the appropriate Income Tax form, such as Schedule C or Schedule C-EZ, Form 1040, U.S. Individual Income Tax Return. Generally, the common law rules apply in determining whether ●● The income is subject to self-employment tax (Social a worker is an employee for tax purposes. Under the common Security and Medicare) and reported on Schedule SE. law rules, a worker is an employee if the person or company for ●● You will probably be required to pay estimated taxes on whom the employee performs services can control what will Form 1040-ES. Estimated tax payments are made quarterly. be done and how it will be done. This is so even if the worker You may deduct allowable expenses on your Schedule C or is given freedom of action. What matters is that the person or Schedule C-EZ on Form 1040, U.S. Individual Income Tax Return. company for whom the services are performed has the right to control the details of how the services are performed. Booth renter In deciding whether a worker is an employee or an independent If you are an operator leasing space in someone else’s shop contractor under the common law, it is necessary to consider or salon, you are a booth renter. Just because someone has the facts and circumstances of the relationship of the worker a lease agreement to “lease” space in someone else’s shop or and the business. All information that provides evidence of salon does not mean he/she is an independent contractor. In one the degree of control and the degree of independence must be situation a cosmetologist agrees to “lease” a space in a salon considered. Facts that provide evidence of the degree of control for the purpose of operating individually and catering to his and independence fall into three categories: behavioral control, or her own customers. The cosmetologist was paid a specified financial control, and the type of relationship of the parties. percentage of all money taken in with the salon retaining the remaining percentage. Based on the facts, it was concluded that Behavioral control the cosmetologist was an employee of the salon.1 These factors show whether there is a right to direct or control In another situation booth renters were found not to be how the worker does the work. The presence of these factors employees.2 Similarly a beautician who enters into a “lease showing direction and control tends to indicate that the worker agreement” for space in a salon could be an employee3, or could is an employee. The business does not have to actually direct or be an independent contractor.4 The fact that someone is “leasing” control the way the work is done, as long as the employer has the space is not conclusive that the individual is an independent right to direct and control the work. contractor or an employee. As with any situation, all the facts If the worker receives instructions from the owner on how work and circumstances relating to independence and control are is to be done, this suggests direction and control by the owner. relevant in determining employment status. Instructions can cover a wide range of topics, for example: ●● What tools or equipment to use. Tax responsibilities of a booth renter who is an ●● How, when, or where to do the work. independent contractor ●● What assistants to hire to help with the work. ●● You must report all income (including tips) on Schedule C ●● Where to purchase supplies and services. or Schedule C-EZ Form 1040, U.S. Individual Income Tax Additionally, if the worker receives training on required procedures Return, if appropriate. Social Security and Medicare Taxes and methods, this suggests the business owner wants the work done must be reported on Schedule SE (Form 1040). ●● You must issue Form 1099-MISC for business rent paid of in a certain way, and the worker may be an employee. $600.00 or more to non-corporate landlords each year. ●● You must issue a Form 1099-MISC or Form W-2, Wage and Financial control Tax Statement, to any workers you may have. These factors show whether there is a right to direct or control ●● Estimated taxes must be paid each quarter on Form 1040ES, financial aspects of the business. For example, if the worker has Estimated Tax for Individuals. a significant financial investment in the facilities he or she uses ●● You may deduct allowable expenses including rent, supplies in working that is an indication that the worker is an independent and utilities on the appropriate income tax return. contractor.

INFORMED Page 73 If the worker is not reimbursed for some or all of the operating own business. These individuals are booth renters. The rent they expenses, then the worker may be an independent contractor, pay to you, the landlord, is rental income. As a shop owner/ especially if the unreimbursed business expenses are high. landlord, this rental revenue (income) is taxable and reported If the worker has the opportunity to realize a profit or incur a on Schedule E of your Form 1040, U.S. Individual Income Tax loss, this also suggests the worker is an independent contractor. Return, or the appropriate tax return. You may have workers in your shop who are neither booth Relationship of the parties renters nor employees, but who perform services at your A written contract may show what both the business owner and establishment and meet the standards of an independent the worker intend and indicate how the business owner and the contractor with respect to your establishment. You should review worker perceive their relationship. Additionally, if the worker the factors regarding employer-employee relationships to assure receives benefits, such as health insurance, the worker may be an proper tax treatment. employee. Example 1 Shop owner/employer If you own or operate a salon and have workers who are not Karen Jones is a manicurist who works at Joe’s Place, owned independent contractor or booth renters, you are the employer of and operated by Joe Smith. Karen and Joe have agreed that those workers. As the employer, wages paid to your employees Karen will furnish manicuring services to patrons of the are generally subject to withholding. Tips your employees shop five afternoons per week. Karen schedules all of her receive from customers are considered wages under the law. appointments, owns all of her nail equipment and buys her You must collect Social Security, Medicare (FICA) Withholding own supplies. Karen expects to make a profit. Joe Smith is and Income Tax Withholding on employee wages and tips. Your the shop owner and Karen is an independent contractor. employee must report his or her tips to you by the 10th of the month following the month that tips are received. The report should include tips that may have been added to a credit card ticket or check and Example 2 paid to the employee (service provider), as well as tips the employee (service provider) received in cash directly from customers. Your Julie Brown owns Headtoppers. Besides Julie, the salon has employee may report the tips on Form 4070, Employee’s Report of four hair stylists. Julie pays each stylist a percentage of the Tips to Employer, or on a similar statement. The statement must be income he or she generates. All income from their services signed by the employee and must show the following: is paid to the shop. All appointments are made through one ●● The employee’s name, address, and Social Security number. receptionist. The shop equipment and supplies are purchased ●● Your name and address. by the business. The stylists are employees, and Julie Brown ●● The month or period the report covers. is their employer. ●● The total tips.

Example Example 3

The stylists at Brenda’s Hair Barn were given Publication Joanna Williams has been a booth renter at Traci’s Beauty 1244, Employee’s Daily Record of Tips and Report to Shop for a number of years. In 2007, Joanna’s net income, or Employer, when they were hired. Every Friday, Brenda profit, was $32,500.00. Based on Joanna’s marital status and requires the stylists to give her a completed and signed Form the standard deduction for 2007: 4070, Employee’s Report of Tips to Employer. ●● Joanna’s total self-employment tax is $4,592.00. ●● Joanna’s income tax is $2,827.00. ●● Joanna’s Total Tax due is $7,419.00 ($4,592.00 plus Shop owner/employer tax responsibilities $2,827.00). The responsibilities of the employer include: Joanna should make estimated tax payments of $1,854.75 ●● Notifying employees of their responsibility to report their each quarter. tips to you and establishing a tip reporting system. ●● Including the total of tips reported to you in total wages Additional references which are available free of charge by when you complete Social Security and Medicare (FICA) calling the IRS or by visiting their website at http://www.irs. Withholding and Income Tax Withholding for each employee. gov are listed at the end of this chapter. ●● Paying the matching employer portion of Social Security and Medicare as well as Federal Unemployment Tax Section 3. Business Expenses (FUTA) on the total wages. In the first two sections we discussed that income generated from ●● Issuing Form W-2, Wage and Tax Statement to each services you provide to clients, income from the sale of products, employee at the end of the year, reflecting total wages. and income from rent of space are business income. All are Shop owner/landlord reportable and taxable. If you own and/or operate a shop or salon, you may have other If you are self-employed, your business income is reported workers in your shop that pay you rent for space to operate their on Schedule C or a Schedule C-EZ. This business income is

Page 74 INFORMED referred to as Gross Receipts. If you are an employee, your Section 4. What’s In It For Me? wages, commissions, and tips are reported directly on your Form 1040, 1040A, or 1040EZ. Rents received from renting or Reporting all of your income and paying the appropriate amount leasing space to operators within your salon/shop are reported on of tax can be taxing on anyone. You may wonder whether it’s Schedule E. worth your time and effort to follow the guidelines set forth. This section helps to put into perspective the positive side of tax As a self-employed business operator, you may deduct expenses compliance in the “big scheme of things.” incurred as a cost of doing business that are ordinary and necessary. This section briefly discusses the general type of Believe it or not, what may be initially saved in taxes by not expenses you may incur. reporting all taxable income will never outweigh the long-term benefits of honest and proper reporting.

To be deductible, a business expense must be: Greater social security benefits ●● ORDINARY – “Common and Accepted in your The benefits you’ll receive from Social Security will be trade or business.” calculated on the earnings and other information recorded under and your Social Security Number (SSN). If you work for someone ●● NECESSARY – “Helpful and Appropriate for else, your employer withholds Social Security and Medicare your trade or business. Tax from your paycheck, matches that amount, and sends those taxes to the Internal Revenue Service. If you are self-employed, you pay your own Social Security Taxes when you file your tax return. The Internal Revenue Service (IRS) reports your earnings If you sell products to customers, your income is reduced by the (from your tax return) to the Social Security Administration. amount paid for the products sold. According to the Social Security Administration, the amount You can further reduce your income by the amount you pay for of earnings reported directly correlates to the amount of Social business expenses to earn that income. Common business expenses Security benefits one might receive. include supplies, rent paid, advertising, employee salaries, telephone services, and utilities that, again, are ordinary and Based on a July 13, 1999 survey of chain salons commissioned necessary. A more extensive list of business expenses is identified by the NACCAS (National Accrediting Commission of on Schedule C. Some general expense definitions follow. Cosmetology Arts and Science), the average income of a worker in the cosmetology industry was approximately $18.00 per hour.5 Supplies: Items purchased for use on your clients as part of Using the average of $18.00 per hour and working full time, and providing a service. These may include hair color, styling gel, employee who began working at age 22 and had current earnings hair spray, shampoo, etc. Supplies can also include tools such of $37,400.00 (based on 40 hours per week for 52 weeks), social as nail clippers, buffers, smocks, and scissors. Supply purchases security benefits at age 62 will be approximately $914.00 per need to be kept separate from inventory as they are not sold to month. If the employee did not report all income and only reported customers. $32,500.00, the benefits would be reduced to $822.00 per month. Equipment: A portion of the cost of equipment, tools, and There are five major categories of benefits paid through the social furniture purchases for your business may also be deducted as security taxes: retirement, disability, family benefits, survivors depreciation; special rules apply. and Medicare. For more information about these benefits you may Education & training contact the Social Security Administration at 1-800-772-1213. Once you have started working in your field, any expense Increased unemployment benefits you incur to maintain or improve your skills on the job is a Unemployment Insurance (UI) is an employer paid insurance deductible business expense. Common examples include hair program that helps workers who are unemployed through shows and workshops. However, the education and training you no fault of their own. It provides temporary financial help to receive in order to enter the personal service industry is not a qualified individuals based on their previous earnings while deductible expense. they are looking for work. Employer taxes and reimbursements Uniforms and upkeep support the unemployment trust fund. The cost and upkeep of work clothes are deductible if the The law governing unemployment benefits varies by state. For following two requirements are met: example, in West Virginia it may be found in Chapter 21-A of 1. The clothing must be worn as a condition of employment. the WV Code. 2. The item(s) of clothing are not suitable for everyday wear. A key component of qualifying for unemployment benefits is An employee who personally incurs any business expenses that past wages. If you fail to include all of your income, including are required by his or her employer, but is not reimbursed, has tips, unemployment benefits are reduced. employee business expenses. Employee business expenses are deductible for individuals only as itemized deductions on Schedule Improved financial profile for loans A, Form 1040. They are called miscellaneous itemized deductions When you apply for a loan to purchase a car, house, your own and are subject to a limitation based on your adjusted gross income. business, or anything else, the financial institution reviews your current and prior year’s income. The amount of money you can Note: The appendix identifies publications and other resources borrow (in part) will be based on the earnings/income you have that can assist you in meeting your tax obligations.

INFORMED Page 75 reported. Again, if you DO NOT report this income, it will not Revenue Service. You may download forms and publications be considered in determining whether you qualify for a loan. from the IRS Website at http://www.irs.gov/forms_pubs/index. html or order through the IRS by dialing 1-800-829-3676. Example ●● Publications. ●● Free Tax Seminars and Clinics. ●● Free Telephonic Assistance. Iris could not get a car loan based on the income reported on ●● Volunteer Income Tax Assistance (VITA). her tax return. She had not reported all tips to her employer. ●● E-mail. She asked for a revised W-2, but her employer could not provide her one, because the original W-2 was based on the Disadvantages of not reporting income amount of tips she previously reported. Iris amended her tax The Internal Revenue Code provides for the assessment of a return and reported tips not reported to her employer on a number of penalties in relation to federal income tax reporting Form 4137 (Social Security and Medicare Tax on Unreported and filing. Penalty amounts range from 0.5 percent to as much Tip Income), paying the appropriate increase in taxes. Based as 75 percent (depending upon the failure and intent), making on her amended returns, Iris received the car loan. noncompliance costly. A few of the tax penalties are listed below: Increased pensions (Traditional IRA or Roth IRA) or 401(k) Section Penalty Few benefits are as important to you as your pension plan. The 6651 Failure to file tax return or pay tax. average American will spend more than one-quarter of his or her life in retirement, a period when the income of many people 6652(b) Failure to report tips. will be greatly reduced. The key to creating and experiencing a 6654 Failure by individual to pay estimated income satisfying retirement is planning financially. tax. Today there is a wide variety of deferred income retirement 6655 Failure to make deposit of taxes. plans available to you. 6662(c) Negligence 1. If your employer does not have a savings plan, you might 6662(d) Substantial understatement of income tax. want to consider either a traditional IRA or ROTH IRA. You must have earned income, and your contributions are limited 6672 Failure to collect and pay over tax, or attempt to $5,000 per year (in tax year 2008. Limit is $6,000 if you to evade or defeat. are over 50 years old). 6674 Fraudulent statement or failure to furnish 2. An employer may offer a savings plan, such as a 401(k) statement to employee. RETIREMENT plan or SIMPLE plan. These plans are 6682 False information with respect to withholding. legal tax shelters available to many individuals who work 7203 Willful failure to file return, supply for wages. The funds in the plan cannot be used to finance information, or pay tax. business operations. The contribution amounts are limited to a percentage of income and can be based on either a specific 7206 Fraud and false statements. dollar amount or a percentage of income. Contributions You can avoid these penalties by taking these simple steps: reduce taxable income reported on the Form W-2. The ●● Keep accurate records; employer usually matches a percentage of the contributions. ●● Report all income; and Self-employed individuals, as well as other employers, can ●● File timely and accurate returns. set up a simplified employee pension (SEP) plan. Section 5. Education Credits and Example Benefits

Danny, a 22 year old employee, contributed 10 percent Two nonrefundable tax credits are available for persons who are of his $36,000.00 salary to a 401(k) plan. He contributed paying higher education costs for themselves and/or members $300.00 per month. The $3,600.00 was contributed to of their families. This section discusses the Hope credit and the a savings plan each year, which earned 10 percent. The Lifetime Learning credit. employee will accumulate $1,913,034.00 in 40 years.6 If the employer also made contributions, the amount would be Hope credit substantially greater. The Hope credit is available for the first two years of undergraduate education. You may be able to claim a Hope credit Peace of mind of up to $1,650.00 for the qualified tuition and related expenses Finally, having a general idea of your Federal Tax responsibilities paid for each eligible student that is either yourself, your spouse or will lessen the amount of time and energy expended on complying a dependent for whom you claim an exemption on your tax return. with the law. No financial value can be attached to the comfort of The amount of the Hope credit is 100 percent of the first knowing what rules apply in your particular situation. $1,100.00 plus 50 percent of the next $1,100.00 you pay for If you are unable to afford professional accounting assistance, each eligible student’s qualified tuition and related expenses. The a variety of free help is available to you through the Internal Hope credit is gradually phased out if your modified adjusted

Page 76 INFORMED gross income (MAGI) is between $47,000 and $57,000 ($94,000 ●● Qualified tuition and related expenses are tuition and and $114,000 if filing a joint return). expenses required for enrollment or attendance at an eligible Rules that apply: educational institution, such as course related books, ●● The credit is based on qualified tuition and related expenses supplies and equipment, and student activity fees. Qualified paid. education expenses do not include insurance, medical ●● Qualified tuition and related expenses are tuition and expenses (including student health fees), room and board, expenses required for enrollment or attendance at an transportation or similar personal, living or family expenses eligible educational institution such as course-related books, even if these payments must be paid as a condition of supplies and equipment, and student activity fees. Qualified enrollment or attendance. education expenses do not include insurance, medical ●● An eligible educational institution is any accredited college, expenses (including student health fees), room and board, university, vocational school, or other accredited post- transportation or similar personal, living or family expenses secondary educational institution eligible to participate in even if these payments must be paid as a condition of a student aid program administered by the Department of enrollment or attendance. Education. (The educational institution should be able to tell ●● An eligible educational institution is any accredited college, you it is an eligible educational institution.) university, vocational school, or other accredited post- You may not claim either of these educational credits if: secondary educational institution eligible to participate in ●● Your MAGI is $57,000 or more ($114,000 if filing jointly). a student aid program administered by the Department of ●● Your filing status is married, filing separately. Education. (The educational institution should be able to tell ●● You are listed as a dependent in the “Exemptions” section of you if it is an eligible educational institution.) another person’s tax return. In addition, the eligible student must meet the following ●● You or your spouse was a nonresidential alien for any part requirements: of the tax year and the nonresidential alien did not elect to 1. Did not have expenses that were used to figure a Hope be treated as a resident alien for tax purposes. Credit in any 2 earlier tax years. ●● You claim the lifetime leaning credit or a tuition and fees 2. Has not completed the first two years of post-secondary deduction for the same student in the same tax year. education. As you can see, many of the rules surrounding these two types of 3. Is enrolled in a program that leads to a degree, certificate, or education tax credits are identical. However, you can elect only other recognized educational credential. one of the credits during any tax year. You may therefore wish 4. Is taking at least one-half of the normal full-time workload to claim the Hope credit for the first two years of post-secondary for his or her course of study for at least one academic education (as it generally provides greater tax relief during this period beginning during the calendar year. period), and claim the lifetime learning credit in later tax years. 5. Has no felony conviction for possessing or distributing a The education credits for both programs are gradually reduced controlled substance. (phased out) if your modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) is Lifetime learning credit between $47,000 and $57,000 ($94,000 and $114,000 if filing a joint return). Neither the Hope Credit nor the Lifetime Learning A lifetime learning credit of up to $2,000.00 may be taken for Credit may be claimed by a single taxpayer with a MAGI of the total qualified tuition and related expenses paid during the more than $57,000 or a married couple filing jointly with a tax year. The maximum amount of the credit is 20 percent of the MAGI of more than $114,000. first $10,000.00 paid for qualified tuition and related expenses for all students in the family. These credits reduce your tax, but they are not refundable. This means if the credits are more than your tax, the difference is not Unlike the Hope credit: refunded to you. Form 8863 is used to claim the credits and is ●● The lifetime learning credit is not based on the student’s attached to your income tax return. workload. It is allowed for one or more courses. ●● The lifetime learning credit is not limited to students in the first two years of post-secondary education. Tips on Tips ●● Both degree and non-degree courses are eligible. Expenses A guide to tip income reporting for employees who for undergraduates, graduates, and students acquiring and/or receive tip income improving their job skills are eligible. ●● There is no limit on the number of years for which the credit (Reprinted from IRS Publication 3148) can be claimed for each student. If you work at a hair salon, barber shop, casino, golf course, ●● The credit does not vary (increase based on the number of airport, hotel, or perform cleaning, food delivery, or taxi cab students in a family. The maximum credit was $2,000.00 per services, and receive tips, this guide is for you. taxpayer for 2007). ●● There is no requirement that a student’s record be free of The tip income you receive as an employee from the services such any felony drug convictions. as those listed above — whether cash or included in a charge — is taxable income. As taxable income, these tips are subject to federal Rules that apply: income tax, social security and Medicare taxes, and may be ●● The credit is based on qualified tuition and related expenses subject to state income tax as well. The Internal Revenue Service you pay for you, your spouse, or a dependent you claim on (IRS) has prepared this guide to aid the employee who may need your tax return. answers to tip income reporting questions.

INFORMED Page 77 What tips do I have to report? ●● A tip examiner could review your employer’s books and Do I have to report all my tips to my boss? records. The examination could reveal unreported tip If you received $20.00 or more in tips in any one month, you income that you may later need to verify. should report all your tips to your employer so that federal ●● An Internal Revenue Service Center may run a match income tax, social security and Medicare taxes, and maybe state of your income information from your Form 1040, U.S. income tax can be withheld. Individual Income Tax Return, with the income information from your Form W-2. If these figures do not match, you Do I have to report all my tips on my tax return? could receive a notice about the discrepancy and a possible Yes. All tips are taxable income and should be reported on your examination of your tax return. tax return. I was told that I had to report only a certain percentage of How does this affect my income tax filing? my total sales as tips. Is this true? I forgot to report my tip income to my employer, but I No. You must report to your employer all (100 percent) tips you remembered to record it on my federal income tax return. receive, except for the tips from any month that do not total at Will that present a problem? least $20.00. If you do not report your tip income to your employer, but you do record the tip income on your federal income tax return, you Sometimes I don’t get tips directly from customers, but rather may owe a 50 percent social security and Medicare tax penalty from another employee. Do I need to report those tips? and be subject to a negligence penalty and possibly an estimated Yes. Employees who receive tips from another employee are tax penalty. required to report “tip-outs.” Employees often disburse tips out of their earned tips to another employee (tip-outs). Remember, When you do not report your tips to your employer, it places all tips are taxable income. your employer at risk of possible assessment of the employer’s share of social security and Medicare taxes. Do I have to report tip-outs that I pay to other employees? No. You report to your employer only the amount of tips you If I report all my tips but my taxes on the tips are greater than retain. However, you must maintain records of tipouts with your my pay from my employer, how do I pay the remaining taxes? other tip income (cash tips, charged tips, split tips, tip pool). You can either pay the tax when you file your federal income tax return or you can reach into your tip money and give some to What records do I need to keep? your employer to be applied to those under-withheld taxes. The You must keep a running daily log of all your tip income. You can employer will then record these taxes and you will get credit on use Publication 1244, Employee’s Daily Record of Tips and Report your Form W-2. If you wait to pay when you file your tax return, to Employer, to record your tip income for one year. Publication you may be subject to an estimated tax penalty. 1244 includes Form 4070, Employee’s Report of Tips to Employer, What can happen if I don’t report my tips to the IRS? and Form 4070A, Employee’s Daily Record of Tips. These forms If the IRS determines through an examination that you have spacing for you to log your name, the employer’s name and underreported your tips, you could be subject to additional federal address, date tips were received, date of entry, tips received, tips income tax, social security and Medicare taxes, and maybe state paid out, and name of employee paid. Your daily log would be income tax. Also, a penalty of 50 percent of the additional social your best proof should your income tax return be questioned. For security and Medicare taxes, and a negligence penalty of 20 a free copy of Publication 1244, call the IRS at 1-800-829-3676. percent of the additional income tax, plus interest, may apply. What can happen if I do not keep a record of my tips? What’s in it for me if I report all my tip income? If it is determined in an examination that you underreported There are many good reasons why you want to report all your tip your tip income, the IRS will assess the taxes you owe based on income: the best available records of your employer. Tip income adds ●● Increased income may improve financing approval when up. Underreporting could result in you owing substantial taxes, applying for larger loan amounts (mortgage, car, and other penalties, and interest. loans). If I report all my tips to my employer, do I still have to keep ●● Increased worker’s compensation benefits, should you get records? hurt on the job. Yes. You should keep a daily log of your tips so that in case of ●● Increased unemployment compensation benefits. an examination, you can substantiate the actual amount of tips ●● Increased social security and Medicare benefits (the more received. There are a number of reasons why you might need you pay, the greater your benefits). records: ●● Increased employee pension, annuity, or 401(k) participation. ●● Your return could be randomly selected for a federal income ●● Check with your employer for other increased benefits (based tax examination. on pay) that your company may offer, such as life insurance, disability payments, and the right to purchase stock options. Example ●● Compliance with the tax law.

Your Form 1040, U.S. Individual Income Tax Return, Is tip reporting unique to a specific industry? establishes that you have your own home, two cars, and three Does tip income reporting apply only to employees in a exemptions, and your Form W-2 shows that you earned only specific industry? $10,000 in income. In this scenario, an examination may No. Anyone who receives tip income is required by law to report occur if the examiner determines that income may have been it to his or her employer. The Tip Rate Determination/Education underreported. Program (TRD/EP) was first promoted in the gaming industry

Page 78 INFORMED (casino industry) in Las Vegas, Nevada, and subsequently to ●● You are to verify or correct this statement. the food and beverage industry. Other individuals that receive ●● You are to indicate the amount of cash tips received. tip income include airport skycaps, bartenders, hair stylists, ●● When reporting your cash tips, you should remember that bellhops, casino workers, delivery service people, golf caddies, there is a correlation between charged tips and cash tips. hotel housekeepers, manicurists, masseuses, parking attendants, railroad redcaps, and taxi drivers. (Your employer may be able to inform you of the Why should I report my tips to my employer? establishment’s charged sales to cash sales ratio. For When you report your tip income to your employer, the employer example, if the establishment is 50 percent charge is required to withhold federal income taxes, social security and and 50 percent cash, and you received and reported Medicare taxes, and maybe state income tax. Tip reporting may $100 in tips on charged receipts, it is reasonable to increase your social security credits resulting in greater social believe that you should be reporting close to $100 in security and Medicare benefits when you retire. Tip reporting cash tips.) may also increase other benefits to which you may become ●● You may be asked to provide the name and amount of any entitled, such as unemployment benefits, worker’s compensation, tip-outs to indirectly-tipped employees. or retirement benefits. Additionally, a greater income may improve financing approval for mortgage, car, and other loans. Indirectly-tipped employee: ●● You are required to report all your tips to your employer. Why has tip reporting become such an issue? If the establishment has the directly-tipped employee To report all tip income has always been the law. The IRS has provide the name and amount of tips shared with you, the put greater emphasis on reporting tip income over the past few establishment could provide you with a statement of tips years because a significant number of taxpayers are not reporting that you would need to verify or correct. all their tip earnings as taxable income. The IRS provides the following publications and forms relating What is this compliance program I’ve heard to tip income reporting. These products can be downloaded from about? the IRS Web site at www.irs.ustreas.gov and ordered through My employer has entered into a compliance agreement with the IRS by dialing 1-800-829-3676. (TTY/TDD equipment the IRS concerning tips. What is this? access, dial 1-800-829-4059.) You can also get IRS forms with The Tip Rate Determination/Education Program was developed instructions faxed back to you when you dial (703) 368-9694 in 1993 to help those employees receiving tip income and their from a fax machine and follow the voice prompts. employers understand the laws on reporting tip income. Under ●● Pub 505 - Tax Withholding and Estimated Tax. this program, and depending on your specific business, your ●● Pub 531 - Reporting Tip Income. employer may enter into one of two arrangements — the Tip ●● Pub 1244 - Employee’s Daily Record of Tips and Report to Rate Determination Agreement (TRDA) or the Tip Reporting Employer. This publication includes Form 4070, Employee’s Alternative Commitment (TRAC) (created in June 1995). Ask Report of Tips to Employer, and Form 4070A, Employee’s your employer for more information about this program. Daily Record of Tips. ●● Form 1040ES - Estimated Tax for Individuals. Currently, the TRDA is only available to the food and beverage ●● Form 4137 - Social Security and Medicare Tax on industry and the gaming (casino) industry. At this time, TRAC Unreported Tip Income. is open to the food and beverage industry and the hair styling industry. Ask your employer for more information about this Appendix 1. Publication 4: Student’s Guide for Federal Income Tax arrangement as it may be extended to other industries where 2. Publication 17: Your Federal Income Tax tipping is customary. 3. Publication 334: Tax Guide for Small Business 4. Publication 463: Travel, Entertainment, Gift, and Car Expenses TRDA–What is my responsibility, as an employee, under the 5. Publication 503: Child and Dependent Care Expenses Tip Rate Determination Agreement? 6. Publication 505: Tax Withholding and Estimated Tax 7. Publication 529: Miscellaneous Deductions You are required to file your federal tax returns. You may be 8. Publication 531: Reporting Tip Income asked to sign a Tipped Employee Participation Agreement 9. Publication 533: Self Employment Tax 10. Publication 575: Pension and Annuity proclaiming that you are participating in the program. The 11. Publication 583: Starting A Business and Keeping Records employer, as a participant in the TRDA, has agreed with the 12. Publication 587: Business Use of Your Home 13. Publication 590: Individual Retirement Arrangements IRS to a tip rate for the employer’s establishment. To stay a 14. Publication 596: Earned Income Tax Credit participating employee, you must report tips at or above the tip 15. Publication 915: Social Security and Railroad Retirement Benefits rate determined by the agreement. Furthermore, as part of the 16. Publication 970: Tax Benefits for Higher Education 17. Publication 1244: Employee’s Daily Record of Tips TRDA arrangement, the employer is required to report your 18. Publication 1244-PR: Report to Employer name, social security number, the hours worked or sales made, 19. Publication 1779: Independent Contractor or Employee 20. Publication 1875: Employer/Tip Income Reporting your job classification, and your reported tips to the IRS if you 21. Publication 3144: Tips on Tips/for Employees do not report tips at or above the determined tip rate. 22. Publication 3148: Tips on Tips/for Employers 23. Publication 3207: Small Business Guide (CD-ROM) TRAC–What is my responsibility, as an employee, under the 24. Publication 3518: Beauty and Barber Industry Federal Guidelines Tip Reporting Alternative Commitment? References: Directly-tipped employee: 25. Publication 334, Tax Guide for Small Business ●● Your employer will furnish you with a written statement (at 26. Publication 505, Tax Withholding and Estimated Tax 27. Publication 1244 and 1244-PR, Employee’s Daily Record of Tips and Report to least monthly) reflecting your charged tips. Employer

INFORMED Page 79 28. Publication 1779, Independent Contractor or Employee 29. Publication 3207, Small Business Resource Guide (CD-ROM) TAX RESPONSIBILITIES FOR THE PERSONAL 30. Form 4070-a, Employee’s Daily Record of Tips SERVICE WORKER 31. Form 4070, Employee Report of Tips to Employer 32. Form 4137, Social Security and Medicare Tax on Unreported Tip Income 33. Publication 17, Your Federal Income Tax Self-Assessment 34. Publication 463, Travel, Entertainment, Gift, and Care Expenses Select the best answer for each question and mark your answers 35. Publication 529, Miscellaneous Deductions 36. Publication 946, How to Depreciate Property on the Self-Assessment Answer Sheet on page 89 or complete 37. Publication 575, Pension and Annuity your test online at www.nccosmo.cme.edu. 38. Publication 590, Individual Retirement Arrangements 39. Publication 915, Social Security and Railroad Retirement Benefits. 40. Publication 4, Student’s Guide for Federal Income Tax 41. Publication 970, Tax Benefits for Higher Education 41. For tax purposes, the term “tips” refers to cash payments only. Footnotes 1. Rev. Rul. 70-488, 1970 – 2 C.B. 219  True  False 2. Rev. Rul. 57-110, 1957 – 1 C.B. 329 3. Rev. Rul. 73-591, 1973 – 2 C.B. 377 4. Rev. Rul 73-592, 1973 – 2 C.B. 338 42. An employee who receives tips of less than $20.00 in a 5. http://www.naccas.org/ NACCAS News:7/13/99 - Results of First Ever Chain Salon calendar month does not have to report the tips to his or Survey 6. www.FinAid.org her employer or report those tips as income on his or her income tax return.  True  False

43. If someone has a lease agreement to “lease” space in someone else’s shop or salon, that means that he/she is an independent contractor for tax purposes.  True  False

44. Course fees and travel expenses paid for training in order to obtain a Cosmetology License are considered legitimate, deductible expenses.  True  False

45. Penalty amounts for improper reporting or filing of income tax can be as much as 75 percent (depending upon the failure and intent) of what would have been due had you reported accurately.  True  False

Page 80 INFORMED Chapter 10 Domestic Violence and the Salon Professional (2 CE Hours)

Learning objectives Definitions of abuse `` Realize the prevalence of domestic violence in the United Domestic, family, or “intimate” violence refers to a pattern of States. behavior used by one individual to exert power and control over `` Discuss specific models of behavior with regard to domestic other individuals within the context of an intimate relationship. violence. These behaviors include physical violence (often called “battering”) `` Relate the cosmetologists’ role in helping victims of and intimidation by force, emotional abuse, sexual abuse, economic domestic violence. control, and neglect. Many examples of behavior and actions that `` Recognize a friend or client who may be at risk for abuse. constitute abuse appear nearby. They may be directed towards a `` Discuss the benefits of restraining orders taken out against partner or children. Regardless of whether the abuse is physical, batterers. sexual, or psychological, and no matter whom the victim or `` Provide friends, co-workers and clients with resources perpetrator, the message and goal remain the same: achieving against domestic violence. control and establishing a hierarchy of power within a relationship. Domestic violence Injury resulting from domestic violence is not merely physical, but psychological as well. Rarely do batterers choose physical The National Cosmetology Association, a section of the violence alone as a means to exert control. Physical violence is Professional Beauty Association, is a partner in the Cut It Out – almost always preceded by emotional or verbal abuse. Physical Salons Against Domestic Abuse program (www.cutitout.org). violence is also accompanied by sexual abuse in about 60 percent More than 90 percent of victims of violence are women. Started of abusive relationships. There is often an increase in the frequency in 2001, CUT IT OUT is based upon the recognizing that women and severity of abuse over time (e.g., “cycle of violence”). This can usually see their salon professional more often than any other lead to a condition known as battering syndrome, where repetitive professional. The salon is a sanctuary where secrets are sometimes physical assault is followed by an increase in general medical whispered to trusted confidants who happen to be their stylists. symptoms and emotional problems in the victim. CUT IT OUT has an objective of raising awareness of the epidemic of domestic abuse and getting victims the help they Myths and realities about individuals need. The program is designed to educate salon professionals to experiencing abuse recognize signs of domestic abuse in their clients and safely refer “If one of my friends or clients was being abused, those clients to local resources. it would be obvious to me.” Introduction Domestic violence is the single greatest cause of injury to women in this country, and may affect as many as two out of An estimated one in three women is the victim of every five women. It is a problem that can no longer be viewed emotional, physical, or sexual abuse at some point in her as a personal failing of victims and abusers. lifetime; however, few clients will share that information unless they are encouraged or asked. Such women, There are few known risk factors, and any client who walks in because they exhibit problem behaviors (e.g., substance your door could potentially be a victim of domestic violence. It abuse, psychosocial problems, poor health behaviors, low is important that the personal service worker be able to recognize motivation to change, noncompliance, and inferior social some signs of domestic violence and be willing to offer assistance. skills) tend to be dismissed as “problems.” As a result, only a fraction of abuse victims are recognized. Cosmetologists often have a long-standing and friendly relationship with their clients. This relationship added to the fact that people often tend to “open up” while in the chair may allow you to discover signs of abuse and assist a friend or client in “Victims must not want to talk about the fact that they are getting the help they need. being abused, or they would volunteer that information.” Cosmetologists certainly cannot be expected to solve problems of this nature, but neither should they ignore it. It is important to establish trust and to let her know that you care. If she is a Abuse victims suffer an inordinate degree of shame and victim of abuse, your role should be to support her and refer her embarrassment about their condition and are uncomfortable to appropriate resources. revealing it to anyone, including their family and friends. They have been taught (by their abusers) that they have By developing a better understanding of the nature of abuse little or no self worth, and they tend to blame themselves for and the process of recovery, you can help a friend or client in their predicament. Cosmetologists may sometimes be in a a straightforward but empathic way. Advice and support may position to either reinforce or correct these misperceptions; help the victim recognize options, make changes, and face the however, a woman will probably only reveal her condition if challenges that lie ahead. By helping, you could save the life of a she is “invited” to do so and/or feels it is safe. friend, a client or a co-worker.

INFORMED Page 81 “If a friend or client wants or needs my help, “Marriage counseling might help; she’ll ask for it.” it certainly can’t hurt to try.”

Abused women frequently want assistance, but rarely are If the relationship fits the pattern of abuse (e.g., assertive enough to ask for help directly. Instead, they seek inappropriately controlling behavior on the part of the “permission” to tell their stories through direct questioning abuser), then it’s a bad idea to refer a victim to marriage or other nonverbal clues. counseling. Doing so could erode the patient’s ability to make decisions to end her victimization, and stall or impair the process of recovery. “An abused woman can leave the relationship anytime she wants.” Marriage counseling traditionally rests on the concept that both partners contribute to the problems in a relationship, and that by effecting positive change, it is possible to mediate behavior. Women who are abused have fallen Most victims are so emotionally and physically exhausted prey to the fallacy, put forth by their abusers, that if they that it requires a great effort just to sort out what is only “improve” themselves, and do a better job of meeting happening to them, let alone make an effort to change it. their partners demands, they will be rewarded with kinder They may have been subjected to years of disappointment, treatment. If this approach does not, in fact, work to stem dashed hopes and failed expectations. Added to that, they the escalating cycle of abuse, then continuing to encourage must deal with the episodes of violence. There has been no it (especially by “authority figures”) will only serve to rationality to the abuser’s treatment of them, no end to the reinforce a woman’s sense of failure and increase her risk of “double binds” to which they have been subjected (i.e., told danger. they were incapable of making decisions, yet when they made decisions, always being wrong; told they must try It is crucial to refer abuse victims to professionals who are harder, yet criticized for everything they do). Restoration of trained to intervene in domestic violence. Local support their belief in themselves, and their own capabilities will groups and/or coalitions against domestic violence serve as be a gradual process. good contact points. Aside from these psychological difficulties, years of isolation and dependency may have rendered them unknowledgeable about or incapable of finding a job or a place to live, managing finances, being a responsible parent, “If they still love each other, there must be something or even getting around on their own. All of these things about the relationship worth saving.” will seem overwhelming at first, but can be accomplished within a framework of outside support and training such as that provided by domestic violence networks and social Many abuse victims continue to feel strong love for their service agencies. However, it, too, will require a period of former partners, which renders them ambivalent and adjustment, and victims will face setbacks that sometimes vulnerable to renewed contact. The abuser may continue cause them to doubt themselves and/or change their minds. to manipulate them from afar with emotional blackmail- A majority of victims will wind up making several attempts threats and/or indulgences, including lavish displays of to leave an abusive relationship before they succeed, and affection. “Wishful thinking” may get the better of them. will place themselves at great risk by doing so. Even after Unfortunately, controlling behaviors on the part of the all that, they may find themselves vulnerable to abuse in the abuser, and the victim’s vulnerability to them, almost future from other partners. always portend the return of abuse. For that reason, victims who leave abusive relationships are discouraged from maintaining a close relationship with their former “These matters are private and should only be talked partner, even if he enters a treatment program and receives about within the circle of family and close friends.” counseling for his problems. Experts believe that one of the final hurdles for a woman in ending her abuse consists of giving up the belief that she can end the violence without Abuse travels through generations and often stems from ending the relationship a history or pattern of dysfunctional relationships. Family Peoples’ avoidance of this topic is rooted in the myths about and friends may deny the problem and fail to provide a the nature of domestic violence and its victims, some of viable support system, which is why it is important to which have been described here. However, research has recommend and refer victims to other sources of help, shown that rather than being offended, most abuse victims including support groups. Ultimately it may be possible for do want to discuss their problems but they are unlikely to a woman to cultivate the supportive relationships she needs. initiate the discussion on their own. Cosmetologists may be able to help by encouraging friends or clients to “educate” themselves about the problem.

Page 82 INFORMED Addressing the problem witness or become targets for violence in the home. An estimated Most experts agree that the roots of domestic violence are based 7.5 million U.S. children each year are exposed to such violence, in our society as a whole. Tolerance of abuse, widely-held either as spectator or victim. An estimated 70% of all men who beliefs that women should be submissive to men and that men abuse their female partners also abuse their children, and wife should be granted control over their families, views of women as battering is the greatest risk factor for child abuse. Even when “property,” as well as poverty, lack of education, and the stresses they are not the direct victims of beatings, children who witness of modern life (e.g., tolerance of violence, substance abuse, and domestic violence become psychologically traumatized and are family/marital breakdown) are often cited as contributing factors. also at heightened risk of neglect. They experience constant fear and terror for their life as well as for their parents, and often Abuse victims often are denied regular contact with family and blame themselves for the violence and any subsequent separation friends and thus tend to lead isolated lives. This is part of an or divorce. attempt by the abuser to control them. Regular visits to their hairdresser or manicurist may be one of their few “privileges” Impulsive behavior, running away, and sexual acting out and contacts with the outside world. For these women, this is are some of the behavioral consequences; over time, such a rare opportunity for “reality testing,” i.e., for viewing their individuals may begin to assume that violence is the norm in situation as it really is, unfair and wrong, rather than as their relationships and to exhibit little respect for personal boundaries abuser perceives it (that their restrictions make sense, or that (their own and others). they somehow “deserve” the abuse to which they are subjected). Ultimately, children who grow up in a violent home tend to have poor social and coping skills and learn to model the behavior Prevalence of the problem of abusers or victims. An estimated 30 percent of them go on to The problem of domestic violence is widespread, with an batter their own children or spouses in succeeding generations. estimated 2 to 4 million physical assaults occurring each year Males as young as two years old have been observed exhibiting in the United States, and another 21 million cases of verbal aggressive behavior after seeing their mothers beaten, and or emotional abuse. Women are about 10 times more likely among the very few consistent risk factors for becoming an than men to be the victims. This document reflects that fact by abused wife are having witnessed or been abused as a child. referring to “victims” as women and “abusers” as men. However, violence by women against men does occur, as does violence in Understanding the nature of abuse same-sex relationships, heterosexual dating, and relationships Various models have been developed to illustrate and explain where someone is providing care for an older person. the dynamics of abusive relationships. While any one of them by Being victimized by abuse is far more prevalent than breast itself might prove inadequate to describe a victim’s experience, cancer, thyroid problems, hypertension, and colon cancer - all of together they provide a composite portrait of the domestic which are routinely screened in the primary health care setting violence syndrome. (see Table 1.). Yet only a fraction of this abuse is correctly diagnosed. a. The “Cycle of Violence” model Three decades ago, in 1979, Lenore Walker first published her Directly or indirectly, the impact of abuse may be felt for classic prototype of domestic violence, which she described as generations. Among its most tragic victims are children who the “Cycle of Violence.” In it, she described how most abusers

TABLE 1. WHO ARE THE VICTIMS OF DOMESTIC VIOLENCE? Women. ●● Each year an estimated 2-4 million women are battered at the hands of their partners. ●● 2 out of every 5 women seen in doctor’s offices. ●● One in three women will be the victim of intimate abuse (physical, psychological, or sexual) at some point in her lifetime. Children. ●● An estimated 70% of men who abuse their female partners also abuse their children. Lesbians and gays. ●● Some surveys have estimated the incidence to be as high as 50%. Pregnant women. ●● An estimated 10% to 25% of all pregnant women are battered. The elderly. ●● An estimated 2 million cases of battery, exploitation, psychologic abuse, or neglect. Teenagers. ●● An estimated one in ten high school students experiences physical violence in dating relationships, and among college students this figure doubles. ●● Date rape accounts for the majority of sexual assaults reported by young women. A substantial proportion of such assaults (38%) occurs to very young women (between the ages of 14 and 17).

INFORMED Page 83 are not uniformly violent, but become violent in a repetitive or Calm phase (may last days or weeks) cyclical basis as their tension level builds, and then is released. ●● Abuser remorseful, contrite; displays charm, kind, loving Over time, the violent phase lengthens and intensifies, and the behavior; seeks forgiveness, promises to change. “calm” phase becomes shorter or disappears altogether, leading ●● Victim’s desire to leave is strongest, but may be worn down to a downward spiral and an increasingly lethal situation (Figure with abuser’s persuasion; victim may accept promises, 1). presents, etc. ●● Symbiotic bonding reinforced; batterer elicits guilt and sympathy from victim. TENSION ●● Family relieved that crisis is past; children become caretakers to “keep the peace.” ●● Batterer seeks affirmation from others of loving behavior; enlists aid of family and friends. CRISIS ●● Victim gives in to false hope that violence will not recur; CALM may be reluctant to prosecute, testify. The “Cycle of Violence” model conforms with several TENSION observations about domestic violence, i.e., that it is episodic in CRISIS nature, averaging three to four incidents a year, and that it tends to escalate over time, with less time between violent incidents. A CALM victim caught in this cycle demands attention because she faces increasing risk over time. b. The “Power and Control Wheel” Model Not all victims experience domestic violence or abuse as a “cycle”; instead, it may seem like a constant or chronic condition within the relationship. In 1984, the Duluth (Minnesota) Figure 1. The Cycle of Abuse Domestic Abuse Intervention Project developed the “Power and Control Wheel” (Figure 2) as an emotional inventory describing Source: Adapted from L. Walter, “The Battered Woman,” Harper and Row, the behavior of physically and emotionally abusive men. This New York, 1980 model differs from the “Cycle of Violence” in that it does not The syndrome has been described in three phases: Tension-building phase (may last weeks or months) L VIOLENCE ●● Characterized by increased stress ICA SEX YS UA (financial, emotional, or physical), reduced PH L communication, growing hostility, and abuser’s USING COERCION USING desire for extreme control over mate, home, and AND THREATS INTIMIDATION Making and/or carrying out threats Making her afraid by family. to do something to hurt her, to using actions, gestures • commit suicide, to report her smashing things • ●● Abuser may fear losing control, resent to welfare • making her destroying her property demands, or have unreasonable expectations or USING drop charges • making • abusing pets • USING her do illegal things displaying weapons demands of victim; “minor” conflicts build. ECONOMIC EMOTIONAL ABUSE ABUSE ●● Emotional abuse escalates and erodes victim’s Preventing her from getting or Putting her down • making sense of self worth and self determination. keeping a job • making her ask for her feel bad about herself • money • giving her an allowance • calling her names • making her ●● Victim senses growing danger, tries to placate; taking her money • not letting her think she’s crazy • playing mind know about or have access to POWER games • humiliating her • making blames herself or external circumstances for family income her feel guilty partner’s behavior; denies that tension will AND USING MALE PRIVILAGES USING ISOLATION escalate to more severe incident (even though it Treating her like a servant • CONTROL Controlling what she does, who making all the big decisions • she sees and talks to, what she has happened before). acting like the “master of the reads, where she goes • limiting castle” • being the one to her outside involvement • using Crisis phase (may last several hours or days) de ne men’s and women’s jealousy to justify actions USING roles MINIMIZING, ●● Tension becomes unbearable. CHILDREN ●● Abuser’s rage escalates dramatically; both Making her feel guilty DENYING AND about the children • BLAMING abuser and victim accept “myth” that it cannot using the children to relay Making light of the abuse messages • using visitation to And not taking her concerns be controlled. harass her • threatening to take about it seriously • saying the ●● Abuser tries to “teach lesson” to victim; may the children away abuse didn’t happen • shifting responsibility for abusive cause severe injury or death. behaviour • saying she ●● Victim may respond with shock, denial, anger P caused it HY L or fear; does whatever is necessary in order to SI UA CAL SEX survive. VIOLENCE ●● Victim may escape and return when crisis is over, only to collapse emotionally. Figure 2. The Power and Control Wheel

Page 84 INFORMED attribute, as a trigger for violence, the abuser’s inability to cope ●● May come and go from relationship as she/he struggles with with stress or growing frustration. independent living and safety concerns. Abusers who fit this description tend not to reflect ambivalence Recovery about their own behavior. They may have been indoctrinated ●● Victim successfully adjusts to independent life; remains as children to uniform patterns of hostility or violence against separated from abuser; realizes it is impossible to maintain women and other groups. They may also have been abused or good aspects of relationship without invoking the bad. denied love and nurturing as children. This last model holds an advantage in that it postulates a c. The “Process of Abuse” Model victim’s success in ending an abusive relationship. As health A still more recent model of domestic violence, this one framing care providers attempt to counsel these individuals, there are the abusive experience and recovery from it according to the important issues to keep in mind. Disengaging and recovering victim’s perspective, has been developed. This model reflects from abuse is a gradual process, and may take several tries. the victim’s steady ability to “process” her experience and make During the intermediate stages, a victim will tend to view choices based on individualized core values that emerge. The abuse as just one aspect of a relationship that is otherwise process is portrayed in Figure 3. It is depicted in four phases: positive. It may require considerable movement in and out of the relationship before a victim is able to let go of the hope or belief that the good aspects of the relationship can be saved (while ending the abuse). Ultimately, after several tests, the basic BINDING incompatibility of such goals should become clearer. Identifying someone who is at risk It is really not possible to paint a picture of the “typical” victim ENDURING of domestic violence. Although many stereotypes exist, they SELF are not accurate. There are no socioeconomic or psychological factors or classic set of injuries that will correctly point you to the victims. Researchers have attempted to probe these issues, but the few RELATIONSHIP DISENGAGING risk factors that have been identified are of little use in defining an at-risk population. In one of the largest studies of domestic violence ever attempted in a medical setting, found that women ABUSE currently experiencing abuse were likely to be young (under RECOVERING 35); single, separated, or divorced; to be uninsured or receiving medical assistance; and to have a partner abusing drugs or alcohol. That study surveyed a total of 1,952 female patients in four medical practices. Abused women reported a higher number of physical symptoms than non-abused women and scored Figure 3. The Process of Abuse higher for depression, anxiety and low self-esteem. Abused Source: Landenberger, A process of entrapment in and recovering from an women were more likely to be abusing drugs or alcohol and to abusive relationship have attempted suicide. They also had a history of more visits to the emergency department, but did not reflect more mental Binding disorders. ●● Relationship new and perceived as loving. ●● Victim responds to abuse by working harder to make the Another study involved a survey 629 English- and Spanish- relationship work and to prevent future incidents. speaking patients in three medical clinics. Overall, 28 percent ●● Logical, creative strategies are used to appease abusive had experienced domestic violence at some point in their lives partner. and 14 percent were experiencing it at the time of the study. Being female, unmarried and poor were common characteristics Enduring of victims; however, domestic violence occurred in all patient ●● Problem-solving begins to seem futile, victim begins to groups, regardless of gender and marital or socioeconomic question durability or relationship. status. In fact, in this study, a large number of patients who are ●● Abuse is weighed against positive aspects of relationship traditionally considered at low risk for abuse (e.g., 12 percent of and tolerated; victim feels partially responsible for its men, 17 percent of married patients, and 22 percent of patients occurrence. at the highest income level of ≥ $11,000 year) had experienced ●● Victim may tentatively seek outside help without revealing domestic violence at some point in their lives. circumstances out of fear of compromising her own/ partner’s social status. Other experts found that one of the most consistent risk factors for adult women was having witnessed abuse or been physically Disengaging or sexually abused as a child. This information, while of limited ●● Victim labels relationship as abusive. use in identifying current victims, has valuable implications for ●● Sees abuse as undeserved. understanding and treating patients who have been repetitively ●● Reaches breaking point (possibly precipitated by realization abused in a series of relationships. of danger and/or unchecked hostility towards abuser).

INFORMED Page 85 The literature is full of qualitative observations about submission, masochism, complacency. But she does not give in… the experience of abuse. These can be of great benefit in A battered woman lies low while she tries first to make sense of understanding and assisting patients. Most abuse victims are her situation, then to change it, and finally to get out. struggling individuals who, through fear, stress, disappointment, When it comes to getting out, women are enormously ingenious, coercion and probably sheer exhaustion, have grown maladapted resourceful, and brave…It is not too much to say that from the to their plight. They are described as suffering post-traumatic first moment a man abuses her, a woman begins, in some sense, stress disorder. In the literature, the effects of domestic abuse to leave - emotionally, spiritually, physically. Shocked at first, have been likened to the experiences of prisoners of war, torture she may try to stop the violence by becoming “a better person,” victims, hostages, and disaster victims. but she ends by trying to be in another place. She may embezzle Reports also describe “learned helplessness” (e.g., passivity from the grocery money for months, placating the batterer all the and inability to make decisions) in abuse victims. This may be while she squirrels away the price of a ticket to freedom. Abused brought about by the belief that they have no control over their women describe this process of going underground within lives, and possibly also by the knowledge that any exercise themselves, hiding out inside, lying low until they can emerge, of their own initiative will be viewed by their batterers as like some moth shedding caterpillar skin, becoming themselves. insubordination and therefore retaliated against (See “About Escapees say “Now I’m myself again.” the Abusers” on the previous page). Abused women may therefore exhibit a numbed resignation that can be mistaken for Legal protection against abuse compliance, and this has led to prejudice and victim-blaming. Laws in most states offer women three types of legal recourse against domestic violence: divorce or legal separation, civil Friends, while remaining sensitive to the problems associated with protection orders, and criminal prosecution. battering syndrome, should not give in to the hopelessness they suggest. Victims may find it necessary to be passive in order to Civil protection orders, sometimes known as “restraining orders,” survive. Underneath these qualities may lie a strong sense of self. are issued by civil court judges in response to written petitions from victims. They command the abusive individual to stop Under threat of violence, a woman may give up bits and pieces of abusing, harassing, or threatening his partner, and to stay away herself: her preferences, her opinions, her voice, her friends, her from her under penalty of being cited for contempt, fined, or job, her freedom of movement, her sexual autonomy. She may arrested and jailed. Such orders can also specify custody, visitation learn to lie, or at least to keep the truth to herself. She may learn rights (supervised or unsupervised), child and spousal support, to say the sex was good when it wasn’t, or that she’s sorry when and eviction from the family home (even if it is in the abuser’s she’s not. Unable ever to give the “right” answer, she may retreat name). They may prohibit the batterer from contacting the woman into silence. It’s often easy to mistake her apparent passivity for at her residence, school, or place of employment; require him to

About the abusers though it may seldom be expressed or even recognized as Abusers, like their victims, come from all walks of life and such. The more vulnerable the man feels, and the more do not have noticeably deviant personalities. In fact, they important invulnerability is to his sense of masculinity, the can really be quite charming most of the time. They are often more he may hate the one he also loves. described by their victims as having “Jekyll-and-Hyde” However, some experts dispute the notion that batterers are personalities. actually “out of control,” however much they may feel that The proportion of individuals with psychological disorders way. They point out that physical assault is usually carried out who batter their family members is no greater than that in private, and that battering injuries tend to have a specific among the population in general. While abusers do exhibit a distribution on the body. Furthermore, batterers seldom kill high rate of alcohol use, this appears to be an association and their mates during typical battering episodes, he says, because not a cause. Treating alcoholism does not cure battering, and “they know when to stop.” many alcoholic batterers also batter when completely sober. It has been proposed that abusers behave the way they As powerful as they would make themselves out to be, do because they can get away with it. When there is no abusers are described as individuals who are tormented by retribution, “the man learns that he does have sovereignty their own sense of powerlessness and who thus rely on the over his home and that he can use violence against his family process of abuse, or total domination of a weaker individual, . . . he remains in control, his partner acts according to his to gain a sense of mastery over their own lives. This feeling will, and his dominance of the home is preserved.” of weakness or loss of control actually may be aggravated by It is estimated that half of all men who batter their partners intimate relationships because love makes people dependent do so three or more times per year. Abusers typically express upon one another: less and less remorse each time their actions go unchecked. As long as the violence is confined to “crisis” outbreaks, their For men, who aren’t supposed to be either dependent or abusive traits go unperceived by all except their closest family powerless, love sometimes produces feelings of resentment, members. However, one of the greatest threats they face is even rage, especially when the loved one who holds that if the victim makes plans to leave. At such times they may power is “merely” a female, a person who’s supposed to be become unpredictable and begin to act recklessly, even without inferior. It can be experienced as intolerable humiliation, regard for their own safety and threat of legal consequences.

Page 86 INFORMED pay for her moving, medical, and legal expenses; or require him A handbook with most of this information may already have to get counseling or participate in a substance abuse or batterer’s been prepared for your community. Check with your state or treatment program. Abusers do not acquire a criminal record as local coalition to prevent domestic violence. a result of being put under a restraining order, and this may be The following is a list of national resources that may help reassuring to women who are reluctant or fearful to press criminal cosmetologists in intervening: charges; however, violation usually results in their arrest and may ●● National Coalition Against Domestic Violence, P.O. Box constitute a misdemeanor or criminal offense. 18749, Denver, CO 89218; tel. (303) 839-1852; fax 831- The process of petitioning for and receiving protective orders can 9251. This organization will direct you to your state hotline take several weeks, although some states have arranged to issue and local coalition or shelter. It publishes the National them on an emergency basis, and on evenings, weekends, and Directory of Domestic Violence Programs: A Guide to holidays, when most abuse is likely to occur. Legal representation Community Shelter, Safe Home and Service Programs ($50 may be necessary, and court filing fees may be involved. Victims plus shipping and handling). can seek more information, including how to apply for legal ●● National Domestic Violence Hotline. A national toll-free assistance, from local domestic violence coalitions. number providing direct assistance and support to victims; Divorce and separation cases are also civil proceedings, but tel. 1-800-799-SAFE (or 799-7233); 1-800-787-3224 TDD. entirely separate from the process of obtaining protective orders, ●● National Resource Center on Domestic Violence, even though they address many of the same issues (e.g., custody, Harrisburg, PA; tel. (800) 537-2238; fax 545-9456. An visitation, financial support, etc). There is an advantage to their information clearinghouse funded by the U.S. Department separateness. When, and if, a victim decides to file for divorce, of Health and Human Services, offering materials especially a civil protection order may offer some immediate protection designed to enhance community-wide response to domestic against a vengeful partner. violence. ●● National Center on Elder Abuse, Washington, DC; tel. (202) Criminal prosecution, usually in the form of assault charges, may 682-7470; fax 289-6555. be brought against a batterer by the state or by the victim. Some ●● American Medical Association, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) states have laws mandating arrest of the abusive individual when 464-5000; fax 464-4184. Publishes several diagnostic and the police are called to intervene in domestic violence. Usually treatment guidelines for child abuse, elder abuse, sexual it remains the woman’s decision whether or not to press charges, assault, and mental health effects of family violence; also however. In some cases, such as those involving child abuse, the Domestic Violence: A Directory of Protocols for Health state is likely to press charges, regardless of whether the abused Care Providers. partner does or not. The rationale is to protect all citizens from a ●● American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists, criminal who may strike again. Washington, DC; tel. (202) 638-5577. Publishes clinical Petitioning for a protection order does not make it impossible to guidelines, patient education brochures, office posters, and bring criminal charges against an offender; in fact, sometimes pocket cards to give patients. Also has developed a slide/ women are advised to pursue both civil and criminal action, lecture presentation for clinicians: “Domestic Violence: The particularly in cases of aggravated assault. In those cases, Role of the Physician in Identification, Intervention, and restraining orders can help provide immediate protection against an Prevention.” abuser who has been charged with a crime or is bent on retaliation. In addition to these mechanisms, some states are enacting anti- stalking legislation. It can be an effective deterrent to violence against women who do not reside with or have left their abusive partner. How effective are these legal deterrents to domestic violence? In order for restraining orders and other measures to work, there must be a coordinated response against domestic violence throughout the justice system, with police officers enforcing the law, prosecutors filing charges against violators, and judges imposing appropriate sanctions. In the past, such laws have been inconsistently enforced. In a Colorado study, 290 separate calls made to police to report violations of protective orders brought in only 59 arrests. Referring friends and clients to sources of help Abuse victim need to know the local sources of help. To help in this, you should assemble a list of resources within your own communities. Examples of the types of information include local hotlines for domestic violence, child abuse, alcoholism, substance abuse, etc; numbers of abused women’s shelters (usually the location of these facilities is kept secret for security reasons); and domestic violence support coalitions and support groups.

INFORMED Page 87 Domestic Violence and the salon professional Self-Assessment Select the best answer for each question and mark your answers on the Self-Assessment Answer Sheet on page 89 or complete your test online at www.nccosmo.cme.edu.

46. The prevalence of domestic violence in the United States accounts for 2 to 4 million physical assaults each year.  TRUE  FALSE

47. Of the men who abuse their female partners, 70 percent are estimated to also abuse their children.  TRUE  FALSE

48. It is during the “disengaging” phase described in the “process of abuse” model, that the victim often reaches her breaking point.  TRUE  FALSE

49. An estimated 2 million cases of abuse against the elderly occur each year in the United States.  TRUE  FALSE

50. It is estimated that 30 percent of children raised in violent homes will grow up to abuse their own spouses or children.  TRUE  FALSE

Page 88 INFORMED Self-Assessment Answer Sheet 2013-2014 North Carolina Cosmetology Update

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Principles of Sanitation and Haircutting Wigs and Hairpieces Hair Color Principles Sterilization Tax Responsibilities 1.     11.     21.  True  False 31.  True  False 41.  True  False 2.     12.     22.  True  False 32.  True  False 42.  True  False 3.     13.     23.  True  False 33.  True  False 43.  True  False 4.     14.     24.  True  False 34.  True  False 44.  True  False 5.     15.     25.  True  False 35.  True  False 45.  True  False

Perms - Current Styles Indoor Air Quality and Methods Guide Chemical Make-up Retail Concepts Domestic Violence 6.     16.     26.  True  False 36.  True  False 46.  True  False 7.     17.     27.  True  False 37.  True  False 47.  True  False 8.     18.     28.  True  False 38.  True  False 48.  True  False 9.     19.     29.  True  False 39.  True  False 49.  True  False 10.     20.     30.  True  False 40.  True  False 50.  True  False

NCCOS1314

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