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PDF Guía De Shanghái 2019 ÍNDICE ¡Bienvenidos a Shanghái! INTRODUCCIóN - ¿Por qué Shanghái? - La huella española 7 - Aproximación histórica - Libros y películas - Información práctica PUNTOS DE INTERéS - El Bund - Xuhui - Hongkou - Alrededores 30 - Ciudad antigua - Huangpu - Pudong de Shanghái - Plaza del Pueblo - Jing’an - Otras zonas RECORRIDOS - Un día 62 - Dos días - Tres días CULTURA - Museos, galerías y festivales de arte 68 - Teatros - Librerías GASTRONOMía - La cocina china 86 - Restaurantes - Cafeterías OCIO - Espectáculos tradicionales 100 - Vida nocturna © Dodge He COMPRAS - Compras “wenyi” 108 - Mercados INFORMACIóN de interés - Biblioteca Miguel de Cervantes - Visitas guiadas y alojamiento 114 BIBLIOTECA MIGUEL DE CERVANTES Tel.: +86 21 54670098 - Aplicaciones y webs - Representaciones ofciales CONSULADO GENERAL DE ESPAÑA Email: [email protected] - Asistencia médica y consulados EN SHANGHÁI. SECCIÓN CULTURAL Página web 官网: VOCABULARIO BáSICO 128 208 Anfu Rd. 200031, Shanghái https://biblioteca-shanghai.cervantes.es 米盖尔•德•塞万提斯图书馆 WeChat 微信: BibliotecaCervantes 西班牙驻上海总领事馆文化处 Douban 豆瓣: bibliocervsh 安福路208号，邮编2000031 Weibo 微博: 上海塞万提斯图书馆 ¡Bienvenidos a Shanghái! Esta guía de Shanghái, coordinada desde la Biblioteca Miguel de Cervantes, nació con la vocación de acompañar al lector hispanohablante en su descubrimiento de esta fascinante ciudad. La presente edición es una actualización de la ya publicada en 2010, con motivo de la Expo de Shanghái. Incluye información revisada, circuitos e itinerarios especialmente diseñados para personas que se desplazan por poco tiempo a la gran urbe, aunque también pretende ser una referencia práctica para quienes acaban de llegar a la ciudad y se disponen a residir en ella. Y es que Shanghái es una ciudad que se está desarrollando a un ritmo trepidante y que acoge cada vez a más extranjeros, turistas o residentes, y donde la comunidad hispanohablante no deja de crecer. Hemos querido compartir con ese lector visitante, o con el que tiene intención de vivir en Shanghái una experiencia más prolongada, el conocimiento y las sugerencias que nos brinda un selecto equipo de expertos hispanohablantes. Ha sido redactada originalmente en español, si bien incluye algunas palabras en chino para facilitar su uso a pie de calle: nombres propios de establecimientos, lugares turísticos, una selección de especialidades típicas en determinados restaurantes y una útil sección de vocabulario básico, con el objetivo de que el viajero se pueda manejar sin necesidad de traductor o guía por la ciudad. Shanghái, apodada 魔都 (modu, Ciudad mágica), ha sido, y es, un enclave comercial, vanguardia en la experimentación de nuevos modelos y paradigma histórico de la fusión, convivencia e intercambio de culturas, elementos que han hecho de ella un lugar indudablemente único en China, en Asia y en el mundo. Su emblemática arquitectura shikumen, sus sorprendentes edifcios art déco, sus avenidas arboladas de estilo europeo, o los impresionantes rascacielos que conforman su inconfundible perfl, evocan el hechizo de ciudad irrepetible, espacio literario descrito por tantos autores, y suponen una irresistible invitación a sumergirse en el pasado y avistar el futuro. Desde el Instituto Cervantes, institución con plataforma permanente en la ciudad, hemos querido contribuir con este proyecto a la aproximación intercultural y, por ello, ofrecemos esta guía como un servicio gratuito y sostenible, fácilmente descargable desde nuestra página web. Lo hemos querido hacer con una mirada contemporánea que trasciende en los textos y en la información práctica, pero también contando con la aportación de imágenes de fotógrafos profesionales hispanohablantes y Il eatem ulpa eatur? Am quae chinos, que refexionan sobre posibles puntos de intersección y de encuentro en la percepción de la ciudad en que habitan. eturem ium rero est, sedis adis Esperamos que esta publicación sea de su gusto y utilidad. re mi, omnistrum eriore, optae Inma González Puy © Dodge He Coordinadora General de la Biblioteca Miguel de Cervantes 4 5 “Un viaje de mil millas comienza INTRODUCCIÓN con el primer paso”. Lao Tse ¿POR QUÉ SHANGHÁI? Junto a la majestuosidad imperial de Pekín, el interés arqueológico de Xi’an o el glamur con reminiscencias coloniales de Hong Kong, la visita a Shanghái es imprescindible para conocer y disfrutar de primera mano la nueva realidad china. “Perla de Oriente”, “Ciudad mágica” o 魔 都 (modu), Shanghái es la ciudad más dinámica de Asia y el mejor exponente de la revolución –pacífica, pero revolución, a fin de cuentas– que está viviendo China. Cuando el visitante primerizo se sumerja en las abarrotadas calles de Shanghái, comprobará de un vistazo que en la ciudad conviven y se superponen varias realidades, a menudo contradictorias. Ante sus ojos se desplegará un hipnotizador panorama formado por casas antiguas, en muchos casos restos del esplendor prerrevolucionario que conoció el “París de Oriente”, innumerables comercios y restaurantes, tráfco esquizofrénico y una población con vocación, paradójicamente tan mediterránea, de hacer vida a pie de calle; pero basta con alzar la mirada para toparse con los suntuosos rascacielos engalanados con neones kitsch, iconos del espectacular desarrollo que está colocando a Shanghái en la vanguardia del siglo XXI. Asimilada la impresión inicial, el viajero podrá certifcar que es errónea la antigua opinión de que la ciudad carece de reclamos turísticos de peso. La realidad es que la urbe, en su conjunto, con su inmenso collage de impactos visuales, personajes, olores, contrastes y rincones, es en sí misma el atractivo para el visitante. Algunos, especialmente ciudadanos chinos, afrman que la verdadera ciudad es la de los hoteles, tiendas y restaurantes opulentos, rascacielos imposibles, coches de lujo y un entramado empresarial y fnanciero de primer orden. Otros se ciñen a los aspectos más pintorescos, como las estrechas callejuelas, los puestos de comida al aire libre y los paisajes urbanos sembrados de escombros. Para disfrutar plenamente de la visita a Shanghái, hay que tomar esta dualidad como un todo y aceptar con la mente abierta que ambas caras de la moneda forman la realidad de la ciudad. Si bien un paseo tranquilo es la mejor recomendación que se puede hacer, esto no quiere decir que Shanghái carezca de puntos de interés. Existen magnífcos ejemplos de arquitectura neoclásica y contemporánea, museos de indudable interés y templos donde aún se puede respirar el ambiente de la China más añeja, oasis en medio del bullicio. A todo esto se añadió en 2010 la Exposición Universal, que sirvió para reivindicar el papel de Shanghái como uno de los grandes centros económicos y culturales del mundo. La Shanghai Tower, © Alejandro Scott 6 7 INTRODUCCIÓN que se erige como el segundo edifcio más alto del mundo, Disneyland, inaugurado en 2016, y la Exposición Internacional de Importación y Exportación, celebrada en 2018, son unos pocos ejemplos de la posición global privilegiada de la que goza esta ciudad, con los brazos siempre abiertos a la innovación y al cambio. Con todos estos elementos, el visitante de Shanghái tiene ante sí la oportunidad de convertir su viaje en una experiencia inolvidable que le ayude a comprender el país que está llamado a marcar la historia del siglo XXI. Esta guía, promovida por el Instituto Cervantes, pretende acercar la ciudad desde el idioma español y ayudar al visitante a sumergirse de lleno en su hechizo. Para la redacción de esta guía, teniendo en cuenta las difcultades del idioma chino, nos hemos referido a los nombres de las calles y avenidas en chino e inglés, ya que estos son los dos idiomas © Alejandro Scott en los que las calles aparecen señalizadas en la ciudad. El lector pronto descubrirá que lu 路 es calle y dadao 大道 es avenida, jie 街 podría traducirse como callejón, o calle (generalmente de tipo peatonal). Las calles más largas cuentan con tramos norte (bei, 北/North) o sur (nan, 南/South) o este (dong, 东/East) y oeste (xi, 西/West), sin olvidar los tramos centrales (zhong, 中/Middle). APROXIMACIÓN HISTÓRICA © Dodge He “La ocasión es buena, se dice para Shanghái nació en el siglo X como un animarse, apretando el vaso helado en pequeño pueblo de carácter comercial la mano y acodado en el alféizar de la gracias a su situación privilegiada en la magnífca atalaya del Cathay, estimulado ribera del Huangpu (黄浦), afuente del por la música y por el perfume del cercano río Yangtze. Esta condición de jazmín, se está tan bien aquí, se siente punto de intercambio comercial marcará uno tan joven y lleno de vida todavía, tan toda la historia de la ciudad hasta la conformado a ese recodo último de su actualidad. Su población aumentó destino, tan confado a su suerte y hasta primero en el siglo XII, tras acoger a puede que tan guapo y elegante con su numerosos refugiados provenientes de esmoquin, buena ocasión para volver la conquistada Dalian (大连), y después, un momento la vista atrás a lo largo como consecuencia del desarrollo de la del camino, Kim, nuestro pobre camino recolección y elaboración del algodón. de la esperanza sembrado de trampas Fue amurallada en el siglo XVI para y mentiras al término del cual te has protegerla de los saqueos de piratas cruzado, afortunadamente para ti, con el japoneses. viejo camarada Michel Lévy”. Durante la dinastía Qing (清朝) El embrujo de Shanghai, Juan Marsé. (1644-1912) la ciudad empezó a 8 9 INTRODUCCIÓN despertar el interés de las potencias la práctica permitían a las potencias occidentales como puerta de entrada occidentales hacer y deshacer a su de sus productos hacia el resto del país antojo en el país, además de ceder a través del Yangtze. Los Qing eran Hong Kong a Gran Bretaña. manchúes, procedentes del noreste, que tras tomar Pekín establecieron la nueva Durante el primero de estos confictos, estirpe imperial. Se dieron numerosos Shanghái fue ocupada por fuerzas movimientos de resistencia que fueron británicas y, en el subsiguiente tratado reprimidos. Además, impusieron la de paz, fue declarada puerto abierto forma de vestir y los peinados manchúes al comercio internacional.
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