Bequia Easter Regatta 2007

MAY 2007 NO. 140 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

See story on page 14 MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

SANPERE Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane Legendre Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution - Gladys Jones Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado readers’ survey ...... 35 Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Bob and Judi Goodchild Tel: (473) 443-5784, [email protected] Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Meriea Steven Ad Sales & Distribution - Giselle Sankar Cruising Crossword ...... 37 Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 38 Dolly’s Deep Secrets...... 38 Book Reviews ...... 39 Cooking with Cruisers...... 44 Readers’ Forum ...... 48 Classified Ads...... 52 Advertisers’ Index ...... 52 Calendar...... 54 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 634-2055, Fax: (868) 634-2056 [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, [email protected] Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 [email protected] Martinique: Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452-8490, Mob: (758) 713 4205 [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/St. Kitts & Nevis: Distribution - Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850 Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 Oh Boy, St. Croix! Where fun is free ...... 32 Who Are We? Compass Hurricane Holes Bravo, Bocas del Toro...... 30 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the ISSN 1605 - 1998 DEPARTMENTS ....20, 22 MAY 2007 • NUMBER 140 MAY 2007 • NUMBER www.caribbeancompass.com is published monthly by We support free speech! sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2007 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. Distribution - Hubert J. Winston, Distribution - Norman Faria Distribution - Cees de Jong Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch

Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 774-6657 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 426-0861 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, [email protected] Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Caribbean Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Business Briefs...... 7 Eco-News...... 8 Regatta News ...... 9 Product Postings...... 23 Meridian Passage ...... 24 Destinations ...... 24 All Ashore...... 32 Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 36 Island Poets ...... 36 Caribbean Compass Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Greener Boats Managing onboard power Cruising Cuba The road less taken ...... 26 Around Grenada New monohull record!...... 13 THOMSON MIKE TOY MIKE The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Look at Sea Monthly The Caribbean’s Left to right: Elizabeth Jordan (AYC), Pascale Sold- Rangel (Island Provisions/Best Cellars), Clarence Pilgrim (Amazing Grace Foundation), Sue Willis (AYC), Roger Gardner and Junior (Amazing Grace Foundation) —Continued on next page moved it to another broad- not on-line subscribers! Join our growing list of & Updates For full details visit: NOW AVAILABLE! 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95

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Hawaiian barbecued food. Most of the staggering was done on the beach, cele- Hawaiian barbecued food. Most of the staggering was brating a culinary victory cooked against the odds. the Amazing Grace The event was primarily a fundraiser for the benefit of and adults. It was Foundation, an Antiguan home for severely disabled children proven that “doing good” can be fun. Vice Commodore The fundraiser was the inspiration of Elizabeth Jordan, assisted by many helpers (Commodorable?!) of Antigua Yacht Club, who was ably of the home. All of the from AYC. The event raised more than $6,000 for the benefit wholesale and retail food food was supplied for free by Island Provisions Ltd, who are were Baileys suppliers to yachts, hotels and private concerns. Other donors and Claude’s Gas Supermarket, Crab Hole Liquors, Francianes, Dockside Liquors Station in Falmouth. Thank you all so much for your support. bikinis (ouch), leis and Hawaiian costumes were the order of the day: coconut grass skirts — with Roger Gardner, one of the leading stars in helping the Foundation, looking suitably disgusting in a grass skirt and with more hair than his head has seen for years. Hawaii in Antigua invaded “Hawaii” the week- Frank Pearce reports: About 30 yachts and 150 people beat upwind from Jolly end of March 10th and 11th. In a pincer movement, some Harbour. Harbour Marina and others ran downwind from English of music, Hawaiian Hawaii, a.k.a. Carlisle Bay, was obliterated in an onslaught from) and authentic punches (a blow to the head that took days to recover cast, as stated in the schedule. However, they are still giving information for the cast, as stated in the schedule. this etcetera) just before the Caribbean. It appears that Mid-Atlantic (the Carolinas, for tropical weather warnings, position reports and new format will allow time slots in Previously, you needed to know where a storm was forecasts. That is good news. forecast for that area of the world. order to listen to the weather Weather Broadcast Changes weather broadcasts on single-sideband radio from Melodye Pompa reports: The in the midst of change. There is a very human voice now NMN/NMG are apparently instead of “Mechanical Mike”. They also have a giving the weather broadcasts, find at www.nhc.noaa.gov/tafb-atl.sthml. new schedule, which you can posted there is not entirely accurate. The Caribbean Unfortunately, the schedule to to 15 minutes into the broadcast, and they appear weather comes on about ten portion but have have dropped the New England Update from Portsmouth, Dominica Update from Portsmouth, (PAYS) in Association for Yacht Security treasurer of the Portsmouth Jan Brocksieper, participating in River Tour Guides are now that most of the Indian Dominica, reports for easy con- their cell phone numbers Current PAYS participants, with PAYS as well. Albert (317-4533), Deedee “Sea Bird” (265-8101), tact (area code 767), include (277-0013), Jeff “Sea Bird” (245-0125), Jerome “Cobra Edison (225-3626), Fostin Alexis (245-2700), Max Taxi Service (235-2028), Eric Tours” (245-6332), Martin “Providence” “of Arabia” (225-3623) and Charly “Charly Love” “Spaghetti” (614-6398), Lawrence effort to make Portsmouth into one of the safest (225-5428). Please support their anchorages in the Caribbean! Info MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 BEQUIA BEACHFRONTVILLAS THAN AMARINA:IT’SHOME! IT’S MUCHMORE Come inandseeusforallyour Visit ourwebsite:www.sbmarina.biz E-mail:[email protected] www.bequiabeachfrontvillas.com [email protected] 8-5-43or284-495-4467800-367-8455(waitforring) 784-457-3423 SAILS &CANVASSAILS Over andoveragainourguestsrefertomarinaastheir“Home”! BIMINI &DODGER We monitorVHFchannels 16&79A(alpha–American system) e-mail: [email protected]/68 • P.O. Box4540,Airport Road,SintMaarten,N.A.,Caribbean Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527(evenings) Wireless internet,banksandlaundry withinthecomplex including Join usthiswinterandcontinuetoenjoythehospitality. GRENADINES • Pick-up anddrop-off frommajorsupermarkets • (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) Electricity: 220V/50amp;110V/300amps CUSTOM-MADE Tel: 599-5442309 Fax:599-5443378 BEQUIA Located oppositeG.Y.E. (single phaseandthreephase) • Free satelliteTVateachslip • • WE OFFER: Fuel dockandbunkering 120 concreteslipberths • frames atcompetitiveprices Telephone hook-up • • Shower facilities 24 hoursecurity • 16ft channel SAILS &CANVAS stainless steel mile longbeach. views juststepsdownthe and spectacularpanoramic high beamedceilings, featuring verylargerooms, are beautifullyappointed, Friendship BayBeach located directlyon 1-4 bedroomvillas These luxurious Bequia -Triple Diamonds. approved propertyon Design &theonlyAAA Featured Architectural a FortRecoveryResort needs at thisyear’scontributors’get-together Guest speaker,yachtdesignerPaulJohnson(left),chatswithwriterMorrisNicholson for her26-year-oldboat, andenjoyingajamsessionwithold VIfriends. Thomas onApril5th after checkingintoUSterritory,gettingsome replacementparts she wasmadealife member oftheRoyalBVIYachtClub.She setsailfromSt. Islands. Aftermaking landfallatVirginGordaonMarch28,she visitedTortola,where in theBeagleChannel, andalsomadeastopforrestrepairs intheVirgin Island viaCapeHorn,Donnamadeatwo-week stopforenginerepairsatUshuaia Although sheoriginallyintendedtosailfrom NewZealandnon-stopbacktoRhode stop wasNewZealand,whereshespent sevenmonths. November 2005aboardher28-footSouthern Crosssloop, a 45-year-oldgrandmotherfromupstate NewYork,leftBristol,RhodeIsland,in yachting scene,hasnearlycompleteda soloeast-aboutcircumnavigation.Donna, Sailor, musicianandsongwriterDonnaLange, apopularfigureontheVirginIslands Donna LangeReachesBermuda “thank youtoourwriters”suchanenjoyable party. Thanks toMac’sPizzeria,PaulJohnsonand allourguestsformakingthisyear’s and technologysincehefirststartedmakinginternationalpassagesinthe1960s. gave fascinatedlistenersanoverviewofthechangeshehasseenincruisingculture ashore formorethanafewmonths(notablyaftershipwrecksforcedhimto).He designed thehandsome“Venus”double-endedgaffketches,andhasneverlived world cruiserPaulJohnson.wasbornaboardayachtinEngland1938, The April5thget-together’sguestspeakerwasyachtdesigner,boatbuilder,artistand tion managerWilfredDederer,managingdirectorTomHopmanandeditorSallyErdle. — Hansley,ListonandArmstrongtheirteacherKeithroyLavia,aswellproduc- The CompassCrewincludedoursubscriptionfulfillmentteamfromtheSunshineSchool Roberta Figueroa,andCharlesCorneliaBrewer. Amal Thomas,MariannPalmborg,KedishaCompton,HeatherBacon,Titoand Berlinghof, MorrisNicholson,CherianGordonandPaulTyler;featurewriters Nathalie WardandLesleyQuashie;adventurewriterHansBaer;bookreviewersBob former guestspeakerSirJamesMitchell;environmentalwritersHermanBelmar, Enjoying theopportunitytomeetandmingleatCompassWriters’Brunch2007were famous Mac’sPizzeriaforatastyandgenerousbrunchbuffet. schooner Last yearweenjoyedadelightfulbrunchcruiseaboardtheclassicBequia-built for manyyearsbychefOwenBelmarattheimpeccablePetitJardinrestaurant. The CompassWriters’Brunchhasbecomeamoveablefeast,havingbeenhosted the ThursdaybeforeEaster. son toasmanycontributors It’s becomeatradition:everyyearCompassPublishingLtd.says“thankyou”inper- Compass Brunch2007 For moreinformationvisithttp://web.worldbank.org/external/projects. operational beforethe2007hurricaneseasonbeginsinJune. Caribbean countriesareparticipatingintheCCRIF,whichisexpectedtobecome and theWorldBankpledgedUS$47millionforCCRIF’sreservefund.Atotalof18 Bermuda, Canada,France,theUnitedKingdom,CaribbeanDevelopmentBank On February26,2007,theWorldBankhostedadonorpledgingconferencewhere ing thenextthreeyears. St. Luciawithresourcestomeettheirpaymentsofannualinsurancepremiumsdur- The IDAcreditwillprovideDominica,Grenada,St.Vincent&theGrenadinesand an earthquakeorhurricane.” pay theircontributiontotheCCRIF,givingthemimmediateaccessfundsifhitby Caribbean. “TheseprojectswillallowHaitiandtheOECSbeneficiarycountriesto agement andmitigation,”saidCarolineAnstey,WorldBankCountryDirectorforthe ing todisastersaftertheyhit,beingmuchmoreproactiveaboutdisasterman- “The Facility,thefirstofitskindinworld,representsanimportantshiftfromreact- individualpremiumpayments. tries some40percentin a majorhurricaneorearthquake.Poolingtheirriskwillsavetheparticipatingcoun- ness interruptioninsurancethatwillprovidethemwithanearlycashpaymentafter The CCRIFwillenablegovernmentstopurchasecatastrophecoverageakinbusi- support theirparticipationintheCaribbeanCatastropheRiskInsuranceFacility(CCRIF). and St.Vincent&theGrenadines).AnIDAgrantofUS$9.0millionwasgiventoHaiti bers oftheOrganizationEasternCaribbeanStates(Dominica,Grenada,St.Lucia, interest creditfromtheInternationalDevelopmentAgency(IDA)tofourcountrymem- On March8th,theWorldBank’sBoardofDirectorsapprovedaUS$14.2millionzero- World BankGivesIslandsStormInsuranceCredit Laser Championships,anotherAntiguanvictory,withKarlJameswinningallsixraces. While allofthiswasgoingon,upinFalmouthHarbourtheAYCheld6thAnnual Kirwan andadelightfulwatercolourbyMaiwennBeadle. Donations auctionedoffincludedabeautifulhand-paintedchiffonsarongbyLiza was heldonthebeachrunbyPaul“Piggy”VanBeek.ThisraisedaboutUS$1,200. Taking advantageoftheeffectsgreenorblueHawaiianpunch,anauction Spratley, wasirresistibleandtheywerewelcomedtojointheparty. and Huli-Hulichicken,cookedbyPeter“Magellan”SmithDickie“Fridge” The localsofOldRoadVillagewerewary,buteventuallythesmellKaluapork frompreviouspage —Continued Friendship Rose , andthisyear30attendeeswerewelcomedatworld- Caribbean Compass as areabletobeinBequiaon Inspired Insanity —Continued onnextpage —Continued . Herfirst MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 starboard side Tourism Industry —Continued on next page would be fully crewed at all times. This is would be fully Newfoundland Explorer’s Newfoundland includes aviation and hotel watches, technolo- is a newsletter edited by travel and tourism industry… Newfoundland Explorer Newfoundland Vol. 13, No. 8, you’d know that! In addition to market and consumer Vol. 13, No. 8, you’d know that! In addition to market and Tourism Industry Intelligence gy updates and more. Tourism Industry Intelligence not uncommon. afloat in Fort Lauderdale, While laid up John Deere generator overheated and she was severely damaged by fire. John Deere generator overheated at was on board the yacht at the time. The captain was Crucially, none of the crew insurance proposal form, the assured had stated that home, 15 miles away. In the crewmember, the captain, and two the yacht had one full-time occasional crewmembers. crewed at all times” just meant that crew must be The assured argued that “fully crew must be employed to look after the yacht proper- employed, or that sufficient location at any one time was irrelevant. ly, but that either way their that the phrase “fully crewed at all times” meant that The court, however, decided crewmember on board the yacht at all times, although there must be at least one carried out immediately ashore, such as adjusting lines, certain duties could still be require all crew to evacuate the yacht, without and an emergency could still affecting cover. governed by English law, but it is wise to read This judgment only affects policies The governing law is normally stated in the policy your policy for similar wording. terms referred to in the policy, towards the end of and/or the separate standard either document. consultants MatrixLloyd SL. For more information visit Justin Newcomb is with yacht www.matrixlloyd.com. Tourism Intelligence Available by US citizens is increasing, Did you know that the number of overseas trips taken and Mexico being Europe (44 with the main tourism destinations aside from Canada average “spend” at the percent) and the Caribbean (19 percent), and that the destination per visitor was US$1,317? Well, if you had read Intelligence trends, YSATT’s New Team New YSATT’s & of Trinidad Association the Yacht Services Meeting of Annual General At the Committee in the Management members voted on April 18th, (YSATT) held Tobago of CISL Johnson President, Tommy committee is: The new year 2007 – 2008. for the Treasurer, Donald Marine Ltd.; of Dynamite Mark Farfan Vice-President, Marine; Budget Risa Hall of and members Facilities Ltd.; Boats Mutual of Power Stollmeyer Sails and Andreas Stuven of Ace Peake of Peake Yacht Services, Marine, Jane of Dockyard Richard Harmer-Brown Bell of IMS Yacht Services, Canvas Ltd., Charlie Maintenance Services. and Allan Dowden of Yacht Electrics Ltd., What is ‘Fully Crewed’? small print! your yacht insurance policy’s reports: pay attention to Justin Newcomb that the concerned a warranty from England’s High Court A recent judgment US$3,000,000 yacht was towed into St. George, Bermuda on April 18th. goes to press, Donna reportedly plans to fly to New York to goes to press, Donna reportedly plans to fly to New York Inspired Insanity Compass —Continued page from previous visit her family. Her welcome party in Rhode Island has been set back from April 21 visit her family. Her welcome party in Rhode Island has Day. to April 28th, which has been declared Donna Lange For more information visit www.donnalange.com or www.donnalange.org. self-steering gear, forcing Donna to hand-steer for three days toward Bermuda, the self-steering gear, forcing Donna to hand-steer for three nearest refuge. As this issue of En route to Bristol, she encountered a “monstrous” storm coming off the US east off the US storm coming a “monstrous” encountered to Bristol, she En route her damaged A knock-down and 40-foot seas. 60-knot gusts reported coast with MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Club, Antigua,isnowavailableatournewwebsite: Thelatestinformationabouteventsat JollyHarborYacht • PippaPettingellreports: search page. please tellthecruisingcommunityaboutit.Youmightalsothinkofusingitonyour Cruising LifeCustomSearchEngineatry: course, caribbeancompass.comisincludedasachartermember.PleasegiveThe favorite sitestotheengine,wehopereachaboutathousandwebsitesinall.Of webmaster ofMarinaBahiaRedonda,Venezuela.Assailorsandcruisersaddtheir cruisers. Initiallywesearch230sitesthatIhand-pickedoverthepastfiveyearsas whole worldwideweb,itonlysearchesselectedwebsitesofinteresttosailorsand dedicated tothecruisinglifestyle.BasedonGoogle,insteadofsearching • DennySchlesingerreports:Irecentlylaunchedanewcustomsearchengine For moreinformationvisitwww.voilierspectacle.com. wing) onMay6thand7thinSt.Pierre,Martinique. Loupiote A theatercircuscompanywhoperformonthedeckandmastofsailboat Sailing CircusinSt.Pierre • SharetheadventuresofcruisersAnnieandEricat to 10th,isopen. Graham fortheirphotographicwork.Registrationthe2007show,December5th thank PeterDuce, yacht andpartyphotos,lotsofthethree-dayChefsCompetition.Wewishto www.antiguayachtshow.com, • SarahandAfsanehreport:TheAntiguaCharterYachtMeeting’swebsite, page withusefulcontactsforvisitorsandresidents. as aneventscalendaranddetailsaboutwho’swhoinJHYC.Thereisalsoalinks and visitingyachtsmenalike.Thereareplansforaforumclassifiedads,aswell is stillbeingdeveloped,butwehopetobuildasitethatwillbeusefulmembers Panacea S/V Belleami phases: LanceBattenandSusieBowmanof gives thankstothefollowingforassistanceduringdevelopmentandtesting Security [email protected] add newpagesforbothshort-termandlong-termissues.Thee-mailaddress Internet: day at1215UTC,ispleasedtoannouncethatithasmovedanewhomeonthe • TheCaribbeanSafetyandSecurityNet,whichbroadcastsonSSB8104.0every Cruisers’ Site-ings visit www.tourism-intelligence.com. or For [email protected] (ten issues).”Thisnewsletterisavailableviae-mail. and easy-to-readanalysisofkeyindustrytrendsworldwide—for189Eurosperyear International. Dr.Poonwrites:“Thenewsletterprovidesarefreshing,down-to-earth …analyst Dr.AulianaPoon,andpublishedmonthlybyTourismIntelligence frompreviouspage —Continued www.safetyandsecuritynet.com ; JohnPompa;HeinzNeuberof will bepresentingashowcalled“Entreîleetaile”(Betweenislandand ; ConnyHagenofArawakDivers,Carriacou;RickJohnston Boat International now hasagreatphotogalleryofthe2006show,with , SuzyFinnertyandBuggsy,RoddyGrimes . Thenewformatoffersmoreflexibilityto S/V Antigua http://cruisinglifecse.com/ S/V EauxVives www.jhycantigua.com www.webesailing.com and RoseRusso. ; PatGlatz,formerlyof . Ifyoulikeit, S/V . Thesite . La to haveyouwithus! 51; FirstMateofTrinidad,page34;andJonesMaritimeSt.Croix,21.Good In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! www.summersailstice.com. For [email protected] you sail. support ofoceanconservation.Jointhecelebrationandhealthyseasas has teamedupwithTheOceanConservancytohelpinformandmobilizesailorsin New for2007:avirtualcircumnavigationtosavethesevenseas!SummerSailstice a HobieKayak,sailatoneofSailtime’s30basesandmorethan200otherprizes. favorite marinebusinesses.Prizesincludeaone-weekBVIcharterwiththeMoorings, Hunter Marine,WestHobie,OffshoreSailing,Sunsailandmanyofyour By signingupyoualsobecomeeligibletowinprizesdonatedbySailtime,Moorings, to bepartofthisglobalcelebrationsail. launched theboatoryou’reinmiddleofacircumnavigation,youcansignup invite othersorseewhatothersailorsaredoinginyourarea.Whetheryou’vejust the weekendofJune23and24.Thewebsiteallowsyoutopostyoursailingplans, To participate,simplysignupatwww.summersailstice.comandthengosailingon wherever yousailintheNorthernHemisphere. 2001, SummerSailsticewascreatedasaholidayjustforsailors,tobecelebrated end ofJune23and24—thelongestsailingweekenddaysyear.Begunin Celebrate theseventhannualSummerSailsticewithsailorsworldwideonweek- Celebrate theSeventhAnnualSummerSailstice For [email protected]. Cuban History. from the3rdto5thofOctober.ThiswillbeorganizedbyInstitute conference onthehistoryofLatinAmericanandCaribbeanportcities,tobeheld offer aconferenceonErnestHemingwayandSportFishing.Itwillalsosponsor In otheractivities,theHIYCwillbeworkingwithErnestHemingwayMuseumto Transcaraibes Rally. Commodore Escrich’sbirthplaceofSantiagodeCubahostedthe by yachtclubsfromtheUSA,Spain,UK,MartiniqueandGuadeloupe.InApril, Over theselast15years,theHIYCofCubahashostednumerousregattasorganized Cruising Club,theClubofSwitzerlandandTheLittleShipClub. international associationsinHavana,includingTrans-Ocean,IGFA,theOcean important figuresoftheinternationalnauticalcommunity.HIYCrepresentsvarious tions they’veestablishedwithhundredsofyachtclubs,associations,institutionsand Commodore EscrichandthemembersofHIYCarepleasedwithfriendlyrela- race, awater-skicompetitionandshorefishingtournament. organized aprogramofnauticalactivitieswhichincludessailingregatta,rowing extends aninvitationto its 15thAnniversarycelebrationsonthe31stofMay,andCommodoreEscrich The HemingwayInternationalYachtClub(HIYC)ofCubaismakingpreparationsfor 15th AnniversaryofHemingwayInternationalYachtClub Compass we welcomenewadvertisersBoatDoctorofTrinidad,page Compass readers toparticipateinthisevent.TheHIYChas MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 5"W ' Venezuela RoomMate ■ BilgeBuster Puerto La Cruz ■ 401.732.6770 www.quantumpureaire.com Eliminate Mold, Mildew & Odor Mold, Mildew & Eliminate 24"N Long. 64° 40 ' fax: 401.732.6772 [email protected] Quantum Pure Aire Pure Quantum http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: [email protected] No hurricanes 270sq. miles of calm seas Full amenities USCG Labs Approved Maintenance Free 30 Day Money Back Guarantee Lat. 10° 12 El Morro Tourist Complex marina internacional ■

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DYT Vessel to Help Monitor World’s Oceans Dockwise Yacht Transport (DYT), the world’s only float-on/float-off yacht transport service, is partnering with the International SeaKeepers Society to outfit DYT’s new super ship, the 686-foot (209 meter) Yacht Express, with the organization’s innovative SeaKeeper 1000TM ocean and meteorological monitoring system. The SeaKeeper 1000 TM is a fully automated unit that samples, measures, records and then transmits its data to various scientific and public communities across the globe. It is deployed in some 50 locations, plotting a broad and continuous picture of the critical measures of ocean health, such as salinity, temperature, oxygen and pollution. Yacht Express is the largest vessel of its kind in the world and has been added to the DYT fleet this year to provide yacht owners with faster and more frequent delivery of their power and sailing yachts across the oceans. “The ship’s regular routes will enable us to provide consistent, ongoing readings of ocean conditions over time,” said DYT President and CEO Clemens van der Werf, “which will offer better analysis opportunities compared to private yachts that are only in certain regions on different occasions.” Clemens added that those who typically use the DYT service have the same sentiments as the original group of luxury yacht owners who founded the SeaKeepers Society in 1998 — they are concerned by the deteriorating health of the waters they have come to know and love. “This is our chance to give back something to our clients and the marine environment.” For more information on Dockwise Yacht Transport, see ad on page 30. GRPro Clean Antilles get Environmental Manangement Certification GRPro Clean Antilles get Environmental Manangement “We have just received Bruno Augustin of GRPRoClean Antilles and Sea Logic reports: management, making us renewal of our ISO 14001 certification for our environmental certified for taking environ- the only Caribbean company in the nautical industry and refurbishing activities. In mental management into account in our boat cleaning the in situ cleaning of 2007 we invested in an injection/extraction machine, enabling to service several super-yachts carpets, cushions and fabrics. We have been pleased 90 Candy Flor and the visiting Martinique using this process, including the Astondoa Royal Huisman 133 Surama.” writes that they are develop- In the Sea Logic line of nautical accessories, Augustin of inflatable and air- ing their range to include: Certec, the French manufacturers innovative “Rafale” auto- tights products for nautical applications, including the coolers — ecologically friend- inflatable lifejacket with harness; TropiKool freezers and material, also known as ly and ideal for the tropics; Tek-it Easy composite decking teak decking products by “tek deck”, ranked the top choice of the synthetic Practical Sailor and Powerboat magazines; Bushnell waterpoof compass binoculars with night vision, as used by Ellen MacArthur; and Caribbean Yachting Charts from Maptech and Nautical Publications. For more information see ad on page 35. tive prices. They will be stocking many new brand items such as Quick windlasses, tive prices. They will be stocking many new brand items Sinergex Invertors, Waeco Sterling battery chargers, Kyocera solar panels, Refrigeration, and a lot more. Burmese teak, Island Water From high-end marine electronics to rope, chain and in stock and priced right. World is known for its broad range of marine products St. Lucia, Island Water World Based in St. Maarten and with stores in Grenada and Thomas store will consolidate continues to grow in the region. The addition of the St. marine parts and accessories. its position in the Caribbean as a first-class supplier of Haven Grande marina, can Island Water World St. Thomas, located at the new Yacht information on Island Water be contacted by telephone at (340) 714-0404. For more World, see ad on page 56.

BRIEFS Opens in St. Thomas Island Water World has opened Haven Grande, St. Thomas Water World location at Yacht The new Island the new Island feet of showroom space, public. With over 3,000 square its doors to the at very competi- islanders more choice promises to give US Virgin Water World store BUSINESS MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 Reef CheckinvitesyoutosigntheInternational supporting reef-friendlyhotelsandtourismoperations. seafood thatiscaughtinasustainablemannerand human impactsoncoralreefs,suchaschoosing signers topledgetakepracticalactionstop health ofcoralreefsworldwide.TheDeclarationasks tion andsedimentationcontinuetodamagethe show thatover-fishing,globalclimatechange,pollu- the world’slargestcoralreefmonitoringorganization, Data collectedoverthepasttenyearsbyReefCheck, International YearoftheReef. December 31,2008,astheculminationof of Stateall101countrieswithcoralreefson set, andtheDeclarationwillbepresentedtoHeads coral reefs.Agoalofonemillionsignatureshasbeen Foundation topromoteactionsavetheworld’s announced onMarch7thbytheReefCheck The InternationalDeclarationofReefRightswas Sign UptoSaveReefs For moreinformationvisitwww.ipcc.ch. coastal andmarineareas. address theeffectsofclimatechange,especiallyin drawing upanadaptationandmitigationplanto for scientificexchangesinenergyefficiency,aswell across theCaribbeanregion.Theagreementprovides both countriesandtojoinforcesworkontheissue agreed tocooperateonenvironmentalprotectionin Cuba andtheDominicanRepublichaverecently management, coastaldefence,anddisasterplanning. can beintegratedwithin,forexample,waterresource undertaken inresponsetoclimatechangealonebut from agriculture.Adaptationmeasuresareseldom reefs includemarinepollutionandchemicalrunoff to competingneeds.Currentstressesonsomecoral adaptive capacitybecauseofresourcedeployment change byreducingresilienceandcanalsoreduce climate stressescanincreasevulnerabilityto with alltheprojectedeffectsofclimatechange.Non- However, adaptationaloneisnotexpectedtocope farm practices),topolicy(e.g.,planningregulations). and recreationalchoices)tomanagerial(e.g.,altered defences), throughbehavioural(e.g.,alteredfood large, rangingfrompurelytechnological(e.g.,sea potential adaptiveresponsestoglobalwarmingisvery There isarayofhope.TheIPCCnotesthatthearray meet demandduringlowrainfallperiods. islands tothepointwheretheybecomeinsufficient projected toreducewaterresourcesinmanysmall The reportaddsthatbymid-centuryclimatechangeis sation bycorals. tality, unlessthereisthermaladaptationoracclimati- frequent coral-bleachingeventsandwidespreadmor- ture ofabout1to3°Careprojectedresultinmore adaptive capacity.Increasesinseasurfacetempera- Corals arevulnerabletothermalstressandhavelow of thesedestinationsfortourism. local resourcessuchasfisheries,andreducethevalue coral bleaching,isexpectedtoaffectclimate-sensitive tions, forexamplethrougherosionofbeachesand are especiallyatrisk.Deteriorationincoastalcondi- which faceotherchallenges,suchastropicalstorms— tries —whereadaptivecapacityisrelativelylowand level risecausedbyglobalwarming.Developingcoun- salt marshesandmangrovesarethreatenedbysea- warns thatsmallislandsandcoastalareasincluding and theUnitedNationsEnvironmentProgramme, established bytheWorldMeteorologicalOrganisation Intergovernmental PanelonClimateChange(IPCC), The mostrecentassessmentreportbythe Islands atRiskfromGlobalWarming News Eco- Menu: Burgers,FlyingFish,PhillySteak Sandwiches,Fajitas,Salads, Full CableTV• Air Conditioning•SportsbarPool Table Tel: (784)4573443 Bequia -RestaurantGreat Cocktails &Fun Kitchen openMondaytoSaturday10am -10pm BEQUIA, PortElizabeth, AdmiraltyBay Bar opendailyuntil…Sunday6pm- 2am Chicken Wings,Conch Fritters,etc… • e-mail: [email protected] that providesanumberofunspoiledanchoragespop- Isla Tortugaisalow,dryVenezuelanoffshoreisland Environment DisturbedatLaTortuga For moreinformationvisitwww.theicct.org. using shore-sideelectricitysources. while emissionsfromshipsinportcanbefurthercutby cantly improvetheperformanceofmarinevessels, mized enginesandexhaustafter-treatmentwillsignifi- sources. Accordingtothereport,lowersulfurfuels,opti- from shipswascheapercomparedwithland-based The ICCTreportalsofoundthatreducingairpollution ter by20percent. generated byships80percentandparticulatemat- average of2.7percent,wouldreducesulfuroxides This singlemove,reducingthecapfromcurrent emission controlareastobelowered0.5percent. ICCT ispushingforthefuelsulfurlimitinsulfur-oxide by on-roadvehiclesinEuropeandNorthAmerica.The “several thousandtimes”greaterthanthatoffuelused The studynotedthatIMO’sfuelsulfurlimitforshipsis tional shipsisrisingvirtuallyunchecked.” decade. Atthesametime,airpollutionfrominterna- and theUnitedStateshasdeclinedsteadilyforovera pollution fromdieseltrucksandbusesinEurope,Japan of airpollution,”saidICCTpresidentAlanLloyd.“Air one oftheworld’slargest,virtuallyuncontrolledsources able technologiesandfuels.“Internationalshipsare Organization hasbeenslowinadoptingthebestavail- The reportalsosaidthattheInternationalMarine contribution shipsmaketoglobalwarming. ed toaddressthepublichealthconsequencesand for internationalshipping.Itsaidsucheffortsareneed- on CleanTransportcalledfortighteremissionstandards Growth” theInternationalCouncil Opportunities forManaging Mitigation Optionsand from OceangoingShips:Impacts, and GreenhouseGasEmissions In areportentitled“AirPollution vehicles combined. than alltheworld’sroad-based land andmarineecosystems— which adverselyaffectshumans, produce moresulfurdioxide— dence indicatestheymaysoon vehicles asairpolluters?Theevi- Are oceangoingvesselsovertaking Air PollutionfromShipping? processes.” to ourunderstandingoftheEarth's environmental informationcritical share vitalweatherdataandother international collaborationto of Systems,orGEOSS,whichisan Global EarthObservationSystem “Additionally, thisfeedsintothe phere andNOAAadministrator. merce foroceansandatmos- Ph.D., undersecretaryofcom- Admiral ConradC.Lautenbacher, of savinglivesandlivelihoods,”saidretiredNavyVice tional tooltotrackhurricanesandsupportourmission this deploymentequipsourforecasterswithanaddi- “We areinaperiodofanactivehurricanecycleand forecasts ofothermarinedisturbances. buoys alsoprovideyear-rounddataforanalysisand tion, maximumintensityandcenterlocation.Hurricane cane formationordissipation,extentofwindcircula- sure andairseatemperaturestodeterminehurri- These buoysmeasurewind,waves,barometricpres- November. Ocean beforethe2007hurricaneseasonendsin buoys willbeplacedinthesouthwesternAtlantic storm-generating watersthere.Sixmorehurricane gap inimportantweatherdatacomingfromwarm, new hurricanebuoysoffPuertoRicoinanefforttofilla Administration (NOAA)deployedthefirsttwoofeight In April,theUSNationalOceanicandAtmospheric New HurricaneBuoys www.reefcheck.org/petition/petition.php. Declaration ofReefRightsbyvisiting eeeu3S $ 7 0 Jana 52fo $145 000 Jeanneau45.2from $115 000 Beneteau411from 50000 50000 $ $ $800 000 35”RacingExtreme $550 000 HouseBoat 63”Catamaran Princess50 $590000 LagoonCata55S $75000 $75000 Beneteau 38S5 $75000 Wauquiez 38 $219000 Van derStadt46 01 E230000 84 Beneteau 50 $90000 $90000 92 Nauticat 52 03 Jeanneau 35 Beneteau 41S5 BAREBOAT, RACE, CREWEDCHARTERS–REPAIRS,EXOTIC MATERIALS T UI,RDE A AIATEL: (758)4584430FAX:4520742 ST. LUCIA,RODNEYBAYMARINA Caribbean Yachting B.J.Inc WWW.CARIBBEANYACHTINGBJ.COM Tortuga maycauseirreversibledamagetothefragileislandenvironment Environmental groupFundacionLaTortugafearsthatroadbuildingonIsla YACHT CHARTERS,BROKERAGE,SERVICES, RACES AGENT FORNEW JEANNEAU YACHTS For moreinformationvisitwww.epicislands.org. have alreadybeenclearedtobuildhotels. grove habitats,suchasDawnBeachandRedPond, Other areasontheislandthatpreviouslywereman- from destruction. ecosystem andthatstepscanbetakentoprotectit that thesurveywillraisepublicawarenessof and makewayforayachtmarina.Thegrouphopes Pond isthreatenedbyplanstodestroythemangroves According totheenvironmentalgroups,MulletBay iguanas. including anestingnightheronandnumerousgreen and birdscouldbefoundshelteringinthefoliage, the mangroveroots.Abovewater,manylandanimals and greysnapperwereseeninlargenumbersamong worms. Juvenilebarracuda,parrotfish,schoolmasters mangrove oysters,tunicatesandtiger and ringedanemones,thornystarfish,varioussponges, that arelessabundantinopenwater,includingpale Many aquaticspecieswerefoundduringthesurvey beds surroundingtheisland. that eventuallyfindtheirwaytothereefsandseagrass grove area.Itservesasabreedingareaformanyfish the fewpartsoflagoonthatstillhasaviableman- ed awiderangeoffaunaandflorainthepond,one Using underwaterphotography,thegroupdocument- largest saltwaterlagoonsintheCaribbean. The pondispartofSimpsonBayLagoon,onethe assess thefloraandfaunaofMulletPond,St.Maarten. Caribbean (EPIC)andSt.MaartenPrideFoundationto Ocean Care,EnvironmentalProtectionInthe newspaper, asurveywasconductedrecentlyby According toaMarch27reportintheDailyHerald Mullet PondStudied environment canbeavoided. hoped thatthedevastationofthisuniquedryisland vant Venezuelaninstitutionsinvestigatethissituation.Itis The FundacionLaTortugahasrequestedthattherele- versible damage. ities suchasthosenowunderwaymaycauseirre- whole, isafragileenvironmentalsysteminwhichactiv- over morethantwoyearsindicatethattheisland,asa Universidad deOrientehavecarriedoutintheisland the VenezuelanOceanographicInstituteand studies thatscientistsfromtheFundacionLaTortuga, value forthecountryandworld.Thenumerous indicate thattheislandisofextraordinaryscientific Studies collectedintheVenezuelanGeologicalCode found onlyontheisland. features aswellthehabitatofspecieswhichare tourist development,willdestroyuniquegeological says thattheearthworks,apparentlyforaresidentialor central partofIslaTortugaiscausingalarm.Thegroup reports thatroadconstructioninthevulnerablesouth- ular withcruisingyachts.TheFundacionLaTortuga MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 PORT OF ENTRY HAPPY HOUR 5-6 TOURS ARRANGED MOORING FACILITIES BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE ... Scotiabank’s annual international Opti event in St. Thomas attracts young sailing talent from around the Caribbean and the US mainland sailing coaches will teach a three-day instructional clinic. Cost of the clinic is US$185 and includes breakfast and lunch for the three days. Final registration and a practice race will be held Thursday, June 21. However, those that register prior to May 15 will have their names entered in a special drawing to win top-notch sailing gear. Sailors can enter on-line at www.styc.net. The three-day regatta will kick off Friday, June 22, and end with a beachside barbecue brunch and awards ceremony on Sunday, June 24, locally celebrated as Father’s Day. Racing will take place in Cowpet Bay. “If we can logistically make it happen, we’re trying for a separate racing area for the Green Fleet (novices), to help them feel more comfortable racing in larger fleets,” Rice says. Trophies will be awarded to the top five in each fleet and top three overall. The regatta entry fee is US$135 and includes an event T-shirt, registration goodie bag and all meals from Thursday's (June 21) Welcoming Party through Sunday's Brunch. For more information, contact Cindy Hackstaff at [email protected], Karen Rice at [email protected], or visit www.styc.net. Cup Regatta. This year, for the first time, the Bahamas’ the first time, for the year, This Regatta. Cup to famous sloops bringing their sailors are traditional inter- be a very boats; it should Turks & Caicos contest enter Regatta will Annual Fools The 17th esting battle. In competition. more open racing to bring in a this mix of hoping that most are come, the organizers years to come in the Caribbean will the maritime cultures to race. is Caicos Maritime Heritage Federation The Turks and ties to organisation with close a non-governmental preservationist and conservation most of the other in this archipelago. organisations visit www.maritimeheritage.tc/ For more information Opti Regatta Caribbean International Scotiabank Caribbean International The 15th annual St. Thomas Yacht Club in Optimist Regatta, hosted by 21 to 24. More than 80 the USVI, is set to sail from June of age are expected, skippers from eight to 15 years all three US Virgin and participants will hail from Puerto Rico, Bermuda, Islands, the British Virgin Islands, island nations such as Trinidad and other Caribbean also expecting up to Martinique and St. Lucia. “We’re US mainland,” says four teams of sailors from the this year’s regatta with Karen Rice, who co-directs Cindy Hackstaff. on June 18 and run Pre-regatta activities will begin national and international through June 20, when top VHF Ch 16 & 68 (range limited by the hills) West Indies. ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, The Quantum Sails sponsored Easter Hop saw close The Quantum Sails sponsored one-design racing back to the yacht club where all the boats stayed on back to the yacht club where day the we raced back the dock overnight. The next to the western end of the lagoon. with Lyn Rapley and The winner was Frits Bus, who day managed to some extra weight on the second Second was myself, pull off a long series of first places. was the third and the big surprise of the week-end position of the Optimist Youth team, Tropical Kids, which was steered in turn by each of the sailors of the Optimist senior racing team: Stephen Looser, Jolyon Ferron and Harry Antrobus. This regatta was the one that emphatically showed the level of advance- ment that the Sint Maarten Youth Sailing Programme has achieved. Fourth position went to Rien Korteknie, who beat the Gilders family team by one point. Another family team, the van der Burgs, took sixth, staying ahead of the “Kick em Annette” team entered by Peter Grannetia and “De Zwarte Hand” entered by Ton Hooijmans. Coming in at the back but showing great speed potential was the team of Jefferson Benjamin who clearly showed enormous potential in being able to stay up with the fleet on his first outing . The sponsor, Quantum Sails, provided goody bags, cookies, bunny ears, afternoon tea, and, after the prizegiving, a magnificent barbecue at the yacht club. Bernard Sillem, one of the leading sailors, proved that even active sailors can help manage the course. Petra Gilders and Joan Price helped Cary Byerley on the Committee Boat. There is every reason to believe that this event is likely to be a highly desirable one on the sailing itinerary in the coming years. Provo Mariners’ Week in June The first Mariners’ Week Celebration will be held in the Turks & Caicos islands on the Island of Providenciales, or Provo, from June 6th to 12th. The new celebration will honor seafarers, ship- and boatwrights, riggers, and all those who have worked to sustain nautical cultures in the Caribbean Basin. The organizers, the Turks and Caicos Maritime Heritage Federation, also plan to establish a sailing centre on Provo that will focus on research and the collection of information about the Turks & Caicos’ maritime heritage, and host an exchange of information with other Caribbean maritime cultures. The first Mariners’ Week Celebration will feature three days of sailing competition, called the TCI Challenge If you need to transportIf you parcels, pallets, magazines, etc... newspapers give CIRExpress to fast and efficient COURIER SERVICES side of St.the Dutch and French Maarten/ St. Martin, delivery system the new offer door to door local the collect and deliver same day, packages and documents, Express Packages,Overnight Freight, Documents etc. need is contact us to fast pick up All you goods. all your and deliver nn nn ee ee tt tt rr rr aa aa

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SS SS Easter Boat Hop in St. Maarten Robbie Ferron reports: The conditions were Caribbean Excellent (which is even better than excellent) for the first annual Quantum Sails Easter Boat Hop (Regatta) held on the 6th and 7th of April. The regatta was sailed in the western part of the Simpson Bay Lagoon and hosted by the Sint Maarten Yacht Club. Not only was there great camaraderie and family atmosphere, but also a high level of sailing by the nine-boat fleet. With one-design racing the fleet stays very close, and these went around the courses as tightly packed as the America’s Cup boats do. We used a variety of courses, including many windward/leeward. At the end of the first day we raced Trini Juniors Shine in BVI Event Laser class at the 2007 Trinidad sailors dominated the report on page 12). BVI Spring Regatta (see full On the first day of competition, some boats struggled to keep from broaching in gusts up to 26 knots. Others reveled in the brisk breeze and turned wind into pure power. Several youth sailors from Trinidad gave fellow competitors from the USVI, BVI and St. Lucia a run for their money in the Laser classes. St. Thomas’ Tyler Rice, who aced the Laser Radial class in the Heineken Culebra International Regatta (see full report on page 10), said, “Those Trini sailors are intense. They have incredible boat speed downwind. I was faster upwind and probably played the shifts better, but they’d get me every time downwind.” Day Two saw winds from 20 to 30 miles an hour. A rough sea put sailors and boats to the test. Trinidad’s 17-year-old Ryan Rocke “rocked” the Laser class, scoring a first overall out of the Laser Standards, Radials and 4.7s, and topping the Laser Radial class as well. “I got good starts, even though the wind would shift two or three times while we were in start sequence,” Rocke said. “Then I played the shifts. I played every single one of them to advantage.” For the last day sailors were able to enjoy a consistent 20 knots of breeze, sunshine and relatively flat water in races that, in many classes, determined who was to stand on the winners’ podium. In the Laser classes, Ryan Rocke stretched his lead by 24 points over fellow islander Stuart Leighton. Rocke said, “This was my first international regatta and I’m very pleased with my results. It was a lot less shifty today, so I was able to really get ahead.” Rocke led the Laser Radial and Lasers overall. Meanwhile, Trinidad’s Anthony Alkins, also sailing his first international regatta in the Laser class, led the Laser 4.7s. Antigua’s 6th Annual Laser Open Championship Races Laser Open Championship Antigua’s 6th Annual Annual Laser Open Championship Antigua’s 6th ten March 10th and 11th, attracted series, held on was the sixth year running, Karl James entrants. For the Alan Hart Malone second and winner, with Shawn for Antigua! third; a triple success Redaelli included Paolo International participants from Australia, Jacob Rost from Italy, Lucas Alexander from the USA. from Germany and David Reid had planned to com- Although a St. Lucia contingent obtain flights. In addition to pete, they were unable to Antiguan entrants includ- the top three winners, other and Richard ed Raphael Harvey, Marc Fitzgerald Tyvone “Buju” Richardson Chadburn, plus 14-year-old who won the Radial class. prevailed and the races Excellent sailing conditions The organizers give were completed without incident. Henry Pepper, Chris many thanks to Tony Maidment, Kadeem Warner for Martin, Shameena Bailey and went especially to Karl, making it all happen. Thanks in great style, but for not only representing Antigua series of seven races, lay finding time to organise the enthusiasm. the marks and provide inspirational NEWS REGATTA MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 Laid-back Venue 3RD ANNUALHEINEKENCULEBRAINTERNATIONALREGATTA race committee’ssailor-friendlyandflexibledecision. second dayatsailors’request,anditwasnicetoseethe cats andnativeChalanas,stuckwithbuoyracingforthe The one-designIC24sandJ/24s,aswellthebeach first dayandanaround-the-islandcoursethesecond. race committeegavemostofthefleetbuoyracing fleet arebareboatersfromallpartsoftheglobe.” of thebiggerCaribbeanregattaswhereoverhalf air offriendlycompetition.Thisisincontrasttosome one knowseveryone.There’sacertaincamaraderie,an this way:“Everyonewhoisheretosail,every- judges, setthescenenicelybydescribingregatta flew northtoserveasoneofthreeinternational March 26toApril1. 9 to11,andendedwiththeBVISpringRegatta, off withtheSt.CroixInternationalRegatta,February Ocean RacingTriangle(CORT)Series,whichkicked son isthattheregattasecondofCaribbean well asknowhowtothrowagreatparty.Anotherrea- sailors whoseemtohaveseawaterintheirbloodas thanks toacoregroupofstalwartPuertoRican attracted astrongfollowinginshortamountoftime, annual event,heldMarch9to11.Theregattahas away asGermany,competedinthisyear’sthird land, USandBritishVirgins,Trinidadfromasfar International Regatta. fect venuefortheannualHeinekenCulebra it, PuertoRico’soffshoreislandofCulebraistheper- boatyards. Butinspiteofthis,orperhapsbecause than 3,000folkscallithome.Therearenomarinasor St. ThomianPaulDavis’J/27, That said,thecompetitionwasdefinitelykeen.The Geoffrey Pidduck,anavidsailorfromAntiguawho Sixty-six boats,hailingfromthePuertoRicanmain- The islandisonlytensquaremilesinsize.Fewer Rodney Bay,St.Lucia by CarolBareuther Magnificent 7 z Charms Sailors Tel: , slicesthroughheavyseas ( 758 ) 452 0299 Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope was happyforthecourseracingtoo.“Oneraceaday catch uptoandbeat lets usgetmoreracinginfortheday.Wekepthopingto buoy racing.“Racesaroundthebuoysareshorterand and IC24one-designclasses. Hernandez ascrew. Beijing in2008,”saysKike,whosailswithJorge qualify intheTornadothissummerandcompete on thefirstraceofday.“We’rehopingto “Kike” Figueroahandilywon—inspiteofturtling al championandfour-timeOlympianEnrique always first. Humacao toFajardoCulebra.It’snowonderhe’s every springregattaheldinPuertoRico—from Dottie I another reasonwhytheywin. crew andtheirconstanttrimmingtacticssee be aCSA-rulebeater.But,otherslookatthecrack finishes. Somesaytheboatisa“cheater”,re-builtto indeed unbeatablewithastringofflawlessfirst-place and unfortunatelyfortheircompetitors,theywere to beatinPerformanceCruising.Fortunatelyforthem, the BVI’sheavilymodifiedBeneteau44,wasboat vered theirMelges24, youthful andtalentedSt.Croix-basedcrew,maneu- Stanton brothers,ChrisandPeter,alongwitha spectating intheSpinnakerRacingAClass.The to Culebraandmadeforsomegreaton-the-water Johnson Hardware Ltd. St. Croix’sJaeTonachelwasgladforthetwodaysof Competition provedrazorsharpinboththeJ/24 In thebeachcatclass,four-timeHobie16nation- Puerto Rico’sChuckMcLaughlinhasskipperedfirst Gilberto Rivera,drivinghisPuertoRico-based A friendlyrivalrythatstartedinSt.Croixcontinued , thenhisPearson26, FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE

z DEAN BARNES DEAN Fax: who skipperedhisJ/27, sail islandtoisland,”saidThompson, me ofmywindsurfingdayswherewe’d rafted uptogetherinthebay,reminds Culebra, andwithallthemotherships is goodluck.“Thehospitalityherein Chris Thompsonprovedthatlaid-back Californian LesCrouch. the Reichel-Pugh44 Trinidad’s PeterPeake,whoco-owns in secondplaceonthescoreboard. in theWhiteFleet. the bigboatevent,andplacedthird that washeldsimultaneouslywith Culebra InternationalDinghyRegatta year-old son,Andre,competedinthe serves asagoodrolemodel.Histen- good win,Reguero’sracingtalent Balaju II Jose SanchezaboardhisC&C36, one-point winoverfellowislander his J/105, first inclass. tics astokeepTrinidad’s In SpinnakerRacingB,St.Thomas’ “They’re fast.I’llgivethemthat,”said Three Harkoms Puerto Rico’sJulioReguero,sailing Urayo ( 758 Devil 3, . Inadditiontosecuringa ,” said17-year-oldTonachel. Umakua ) 452 0311 Dottie II, with suchskillfultac- , ChristopherLloydof , pulledanarrow Storm J-Walker in justabout Storm along with Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners z Urayo firmly , toa e-mail: [email protected] , it wasthatclose.” America’s CuponourChalanas.And,I’mtellingyou, Malas Manos races, itcamedowntoamatchracebetweenCarlos’s knew howtoworktheboat.Infact,inlastfew gusty 15-to20-knotwinds,buttheseguysreally challenging conditionsinthefive-tosix-footswelland more thanacentury. tive, one-designclassthathasahistorydatingback fabricated boatwitha75-plus-strong,highlycompeti- Chalanas areabackyard-builtratherthanfactory- winning boatintheChalanaclass, began attheSt.CroixInternationalRegatta. ultimately wonandcontinuedthewinningstreakthat helmed byFraitoLugo,intheIC24s.The skippered byTaylorCanfield,fromPuertoRico’s decides it.Moreracesmakesitmorefun.” “My crewwasgreat,”Santossaid.“Wehadsome Finally, PuertoRico’sHenrySantosskipperedthe Only onepointseparatedSt.Thomas’s 3) 2) 2) 1) Beach Cat 3) 2) 1) Jib &Main 3) 2) 1) Performance Cruising 3) 2) 1) Cruiser Racer 3) 2) 1) Spinnaker RacingB 1) Spinnaker RacingA 3) 2) 1) Chalana 3) 2) 1) J/24 3) 2) 1) IC24 3) Enrique Figueroa,PuertoRico(9) St. Croix,USVI(18) Puerto Rico(4) New Hampshire,USA(7) Christopher Lloyd,Tortola,BVI(5) John Foster,St.Thomas,USVI(11) Puerto Rico(12) Puerto Rico(16) Puerto Rico(19) Regatta 2007Winners Culebra International J-Walker Devil 3 Blue Max Storm Green Boat Tasmania Don QLimon, Spookie Monkey DRD/Suzuki/Red Bull Mary-Ellen Dottie II Dejavu, Shamrock IV Three Harkoms Boomerang Balaju II Umakua, Ex MeroMotu, The Good,Bad&Ugly Heineken Malas Manas Son ofWind Fuakata El Shaddai Urayo bMobile Orion , FraitoLugo,PuertoRico(17) , Reichel-Pugh44,PeterPeake,Trinidad(10) , GilbertoRivera,PuertoRico(7) , Melges24,ChrisStanton,St.Croix,USVI(4) , ColinRathburn,Tortola,BVI(18) , Pearson26,ChuckMcLaughlin, , J/27,ChrisStanton,St.Thomas,USVI(4) J-30, FernandoDeJesus,PuertoRico(8) , CarlosSierra,PuertoRico(20) , C&C36,JoseSanchez,PuertoRico(5) , C&C44,JuanRequena,PuertoRico(18) and us.Imagine,matchracinglikeinthe , Hobie16,FranciscoFigueroa, , HenryBastidas,PuertoRico(20) J/105, JulioReguero,PuertoRico(4) , Jeanneau54,HowardSilverman, , CarlosAguilar,St.Thomas,USVI(16) , JaeTonachel,St.Croix,USVI(13) , K-33,PatNolan,Tortola,BVI(10) , JosePerez,PuertoRico(5) , J/120,ThomasMullen, , CarlosMarrero,PuertoRico(14) Melges 24,EnriqueTorruellas, J-24, ToniMari,PuertoRico(13) , ModifiedBeneteau445, , Hobie16,PedrinColon, , Tornado, Houseware & Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint , Kirby25, Son ofWind Green Boat Green Boat Orion . , , Tortola’s Christopher Lloyd. “We haven’t lost a race 34TH ANNUAL INTERNATIONAL ROLEX REGATTA yet, but I shouldn’t say that too soon. We still have BVI,” Lloyd said. He added, “I've got a great crew. They never stop working. I have to say, we have a bit of local knowl- Seven Classes Race for edge, too. I sailed my first regatta over here in 1972. There wasn't a Rolex yet; it was just a club race.” Martin Jacobson from Greenwich, Connecticut, Good Times — and sailed a near flawless regatta aboard his Swan 44, Crescendo. Crescendo’s tactician and part-time skipper, James Wilmot, said, “It was just a lovely Good Watches! regatta. We really enjoy racing around the islands. It’s beautiful.” by Carol Bareuther In the Beach Cat class, Puerto Rico’s four-time Hobie 16 national champion and four-time Olympian, Caribbean regattas share a commonality: steady DEAN BARNES tradewinds, warm waters, and sand-in-the-toes Enrique Figueroa, scored nothing but first-place fin- beachside parties that even get blue-blazered yachties ishes. He sailed aboard a Tornado, while many other to let their hair down and have some rum-inspired boats in the class were Hobie 16s. Figueroa said, “The fun. Yet, each regatta has its own unique character. 16s can go pretty fast in this breeze, so we had to keep For the International Rolex Regatta, held for the 34th an eye out for them. But I have to say, many times it year out of the St. Thomas Yacht Club, March 23 to was lonely out there. We got pretty far ahead.” 25, its personality is made up of some of the best sail- Figueroa and crew Jorge Hernandez hope to qualify ing talent in the world, combined with a friendly cama- this summer for a slot at the Summer Olympics in raderie that centers on the Club itself as a central Beijing in 2008. meeting place. And, of course, the chance to sail off This year’s International Rolex Regatta was the qual- with a Rolex watch. ifier for the US Virgin Islands representative for the Eighty-seven yachts with skippers and crews hailing Hobie 16 class in the Pan American Games, set for from throughout the Caribbean, US mainland and this summer in Rio de Janeiro. St. Croix’s Chris Europe participated in this three-day event that saw Schreiber and St. Thomas’s Terry Jackson earned this breezes of more than 12 knots each day over a combi- slot by placing fifth in class, higher than St. Thomas’s nation of round-the-buoy and round-the-island cours- Tom Kozyn and Lisa Oseychik, who finished in ninth. es. A watch was awarded to seven skippers, the top Finally, in the IC24 class, the race for first turned skippers in each of the regatta’s seven classes. into a tiebreaker. The BVI’s Robbie and Michael Hirst, For some of these skippers, picking up a Rolex aboard their Mio Broadband, scored the same number meant maintaining a lead they gained the first day of of points as Puerto Rico’s Fraito Lugo skippering his competition. Such was the case in the Spinnaker Orion. However, the Hirsts tallied a greater number of Racing 1 Class. Caccia Alla Volpe, a Vallicelli 44 driv- first-place finishes to win the class. en by Carlo Falcone from Antigua, maintained its lead Robbie Hirst said, “Our crew work was very good. You over France’s Clive Llewellyn, aboard his Grand Soleil had to figure out your strategy on the first beat, where MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 48, Mad IV. Tim Kimpton’s Crash Test Dummies out of Trinidad, to position yourself, or you got buried by the fleet.” “We started today with a three-point lead over our a former Rolex winner who really had some speed competition [Mad IV],” said Karl James, an Olympic Laser sailor who called tactics and trimmed the main aboard Caccia Alla Volpe. “Our goal was to stay close to them and we did. We’re used to around-the- International Rolex Regatta 2007 Winners island racing in Antigua, so this course wasn’t difficult for us.” IC24 One Design (One Design - 19 Boats) The Stanton brothers, Chris as skipper and Peter 1) Mio Broadband, Robby & Michael Hirst, Tortola, BVI (47) calling tactics, along with their all-star crew, maneu- 2) Orion, Fraito Lugo, Ponce, PR (47) vered their Melges 24, Devil 3, to a lead in Spinnaker 3) Bambooshay, Christian Rosenberg, St. Thomas, USVI (61) Racing 2 on the first day and never let it go. The St. Spinnaker Racing 1 (CSA - 6 Boats) Croix-based crew is no stranger to this winner’s circle, 1) Caccia Alla Volpe, Vallicelli 44, Carlo Falcone, Antigua (11) having taken home a Rolex a few years back while sail- 2) Mad IV, J/V Grand Soleil 48, Clive Llewellyn, Paris, France (13) ing their J/24, Jersey Devil. 3) Yeoman XXXII, Rogers 46, David Aisher, Kent, UK (17) “This one might go to me,” said Chris. “The first one Spinnaker Racing 2 (CSA - 9 Boats) went to my dad. He and my mom have really been 1) Devil 3, Melges 24, Chris Stanton, St. Croix, USVI (6) behind us in sailing.” 2) Crash Test Dummies, Melges 32, Timothy Kimpton, Diego Martin, Trinidad (17) He added, “It was nice to have a bunch of sport boats 3) Expensive Habit, J/100, Robert Armstrong, St. Croix, USVI (19) in our class that all sailed about the same angles. The Spinnaker Racing 3 (CSA - 17 Boats) last day, it seemed like the winds were light at first, 1) J-Bird 4, Olson 30, Doug Baker, St. Thomas, USVI (6) but they really weren’t. We had a great start and 2) The Good The Bad & The Ugly, Kirby 25, Johnny Foster, St. Thomas, USVI (22) because the seas were much more calm, we were real- 3) SP MRI & CT Center/Tax Return, J/24, Carlos Feliciano, Caguas, Puerto Rico (25) ly able to fly. In fact, we crossed the finish line and the Non-Spinnaker Racing 1 (CSA - 17 Boats) next boat in our class crossed about ten minutes later; 1) Three Harkoms, Modified Beneteau 442 44, Christopher Lloyd, Tortola, BVI (4) we were that far ahead.” 2) Affinity, Frers 49.51, Jack Desmond, Massachusetts, USA (11) Similarly, J-Bird, an Olson 30 sailed by a California 3) El Presidente, Thomas 35, Jeffrey Fangmann, St. Croix, USVI (13) crew accustomed to manning a sleek-sailing Andrews Spinnaker Racing/Cruising (CSA - 9 Boats) 80, got out in front and never relinquished their lead 1) Crescendo, Swan 44, Martin Jacobson, Connecticut, USA (8) in the Spinnaker Racing 3 Class. 2) Team Paul Mitchell, Beneteau First 40.7, Mark Palermo, Louisiana, USA (16) Keith Kilpatrick, J-Bird’s tactician and jib trimmer, 3) Shamrock V, J 120, Thomas Mullen, New Hampshire, USA (17) said, “We didn’t have any local knowledge, but we’re a Beach Cats (Portsmouth - 12 Boats) pretty experienced crew. In fact, we got a good start 1) DRD/Suzuki/Red Bull, Tornado 20, Enrique Figueroa, San Juan, Puerto Rico (6) and shot off from there.” 2) Heineken, Hobie 16, Francisco Figueroa, San Juan, Puerto Rico(12) Yet another boat that suffered no losses was Three 3) Fitness Warehouse, Hobie 16, Dennys Junco, Carolina, Puerto Rico (23) Harkoms, a modified Beneteau 442, owned by MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Baker’s Andrews80, based crew’sforte,astheyusuallyraceownerDoug El Ocaso 30 intoahalf-pointwinoverRickWesslund’sJ/120, last day,therealrewardforuswashitting17knots.” “We madefewermistakesmaneuver-wise.Thenonthe trump theminthreeracesoutofeight.SaysStanton, Midwesterners —the crew, andWisconsin’sDaveWestwithhis Trinidad’s TimKimptonandhis keen competitionfromapairofMelges32s— their newsportboatintheleadallthreedays.Eyeing and hisbrother,Peter,whocalledtactics,didkeep skippered bySt.Croix’sChrisStanton,butStanton Performance CruisingA. bigger boatsthatstartedfiveminutesaheadofthemin sailed sofastthatitnearlycaughtanumberofthe “Another greatdayonthewater.”Nowonder.Theboat blustery seconddaybestwhenhecommented, unbeatable Three Harkoms Christopher Lloyd’shighlymodifiedOceanis440, Cruising BwasclearlydominatedbytheBVI’s lead inPerformanceCruisingA,while Julio Reguero,skipperinghisJ/105, when hisSirena38, in hisclassmanyoftheseyears,includingthisone, BVI SpringRegatta.And,he’splacedinthetopthree sible withoutbreakinganythingorhurtinganyone.” is, wereallygotthegreatestamountofboatspeedpos- this weekend,weoptimizedtheboattolimit.That us. Wegottosailwithfriends,andlikeeverybodyelse lier thisseason.“Thiswasagoodweekendandfor that theyalsoaccomplishedatthreeotherregattasear- won SpinnakerRacingDintheBVI,aclass-winfeat a groupofgoodfriendsascrew,theirJ/27, the wakeofbothkidsgoingofftocollegelastfall.With proved theywereanythingbutlonelyempty-nestersin resist therumandreggaeofaCaribbeanregatta? Diego toPuertoVallartarecordlastyear,butwhocan with flawlessfirstplacefinishes. As itwas,theround-the-worldwinnereasilyfinished XII knots, wewouldhavehadtoreallyworryabout during theBVIregatta.“Ifithadbeenunderten Zealander BradJackson,whodrove Spinnaker RacingAmayhavebeendifferent,saysNew from Trinidad. ABN AMROOne everything froma2005-06VolvoOceanRacewinner, fleet thisyearwasarecord145boats,whichincluded broaching astheydidoutwittingthecompetition.The almost asmuchtimepreventingtheirboatsfrom April 1stoutofTortola’sNannyCayMarina,spent in thisyear’sBVISpringRegatta,sailedMarch29thto 2007 BVISPRINGREGATTA Strong WindsMake The crewaboard Affinity The BVI’sPeterHaycrafthasracedineverysingle St. ThomascoupleChrisandChristineThompson The samewasn’texactlytruefor If thewindshadbeenlighter,outcomein Wind wasthewordasskippersandcrewscompeting ,” saysJackson,aboutTomHill’sReichel-Pugh75.

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. Titan , his Inter20, competition. ThatgaveSt.Croix’sTomAinger,driving beach catfleetstayingontheforlastday’s when his Croix’s JoeSanMartintookrevengeinthefinalrace aboard his this year.Evenso,theBVI’sRichardWooldridge, their going toBVIbrothersRobbieandMichaelHirst,sailing wasn’t determineduntilthelastrace,withthathonor 440, Netherlands’ JanSoderbergintheBeneteauOceanis Bareboat A,whileBwasdominatedbythe skippered hisMoorings515, ances seriously.JustasktheUK’sTonyMack,who this internationalmixofsailorstooktheirperform- numerous asthoseinSt.MaartenorAntigua.Still, tied withanidenticalnumberofpoints. the BVI’sBillBaileyonhisHughes38, able toreallygetahead.” with myresults.Itwasalotlessshiftytoday,soI was myfirstinternationalregattaandI’mverypleased points overfellowTrinisailor,StuartLeighton.“This class fromDayOneandstretchedhisleadby24 a lotforthefirsthalfoffleet,”Hirstcommented. experienced sailorslearntherules,butitdidn’tchange ing inthisclassforthefirsttime.“Ithelpedless Steve Schmidt’sSantaCruz70, scooted hisMoorings515, The LargeMultihullandBeachCatclasseswerelight Racing wassocloseintheIC24classthatwinner The bareboatclassesintheSpringRegattaaren’tas Finally, intheLasers,Trinidad’sRyanRockeled Competition provedcloseinJib&Main.DavidHuester Chess MIO Broadband

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, DEAN BARNES DEAN 3) 2) 1) Beach Cats 2) 1) Multihull 3) 2) 1) Jib &Main 3) 2) 1) Performance CruisingB 3) 2) 1) Performance CruisingA 3) 2) 1) Cruiser Racer 3) 2) 1) Spinnaker RacingD 3) 2) 1) Spinnaker RacingC 3) 2) 1) Spinnaker RacingB 3) 2) 1) Spinnaker RacingA 2) 1) IC24 3) 2) 1) Laser 3) 2007 BVISpring Regatta Winners USVI (6) BVI (6) Steve Schmidt,USA(11.5) BVI (13) Christopher Lloyd,BVI(5) UK (15) USA (13) Puerto Rico(23) John Foster,USVI(21.5) USA (24.5) Tim Kimpton,Trinidad(19) Puerto Rico(16) New Zealand(8) TBD XO Bistro Caribbean AutoMart Piglet Triple Jack Second Nature Hotel CaliforniaToo Mary Jane Elmo Diva Three Harkoms Black Hole Advantage Affinity Abracadabra Umakua Pipedream Magnificent 7 The Good,Bad&Ugly J-Walker Team PaulMitchell El Ocaso J-Bird III Chippewa Crash TestDummies Devil 3 Noonmark VI Titan XII ABM AMROOne Bambooshay MIO Broadband Tyler Rice Stewart Leighton Ryan Rocke MIO Roaming , Prindle19,DavisMurray,USVI(21) , Modified30SquareMeter,RobinTattersall, , GrandSoleil43,RobertEggleton,USA(18) , Newick,JoeSanMartin,USVI(9) , Melges24,ChrisStanton,USVI(13) , Swan48,JackDesmond,USA(8) , J-105,JulioReguero,PuertoRico(22) , Reichel-Pugh75,TomHill,Sr., , Olson30,DougBaker,USA(23.5) , J/120,RickWesslund,USA(24) , J-27,ChrisStanton,USVI(12.5) , Hobie16,TomKozyn,USVI(16) , USVI(65) , Melges32,DaveWest,USA(24) , Sirena38,PeterHaycraft,BVI(17) , Moorings515,DavidHuester,UK(8) , GrandSoleil50,BrianBennett, , BeneteauFirst40.7,PatrickKroll, , KelsallOneOff,RichardWooldridge, , Trinidad(28) , Swan56,GeoffreyMulchy,UK(28) , ChrisRosenberg,USVI(57) , J-105,CarlosCamacho, , AndrewWaters,BVI(84) , J-27,PaulDavis,USVI(25) , Hughes38,BillBailey,BVI(11.5) , ModifiedBeneteau445, , RobbieHirst,BVI(53) , VolvoOcean70,BradJackson, , Trinidad(52) , BeneteauFirst40.7, , SantaCruz70, , Melges32, , Inter20,TomAinger, , Kirby25, MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 Second commented, staff monitors Blurred Vision, Tel: (473) 444 4449 Tel: Fax: (473) 444 2090 facilities, garbage disposal & ice. slip rental. came in first in both races and came in first in both races • Fuel, gas, shower & toilet • Long term & short term and fax facilities. • Telephone • Internet Access. • Security. • Duty Free Fuel. • Pool, volley ball courts & bar. and island tour services. • Taxi Marina’s Martin’s VHF radio channels 16 & 71, and are always available to assist boaters in docking & leaving the marina, as well as to help in locat- ing appropriate services as needed. Email: [email protected] Morning Tide was the overall winner in the Multihull Class. was the overall winner in the A memorable evening at the Beach House A memorable evening Saturday also saw the Port Louis Junior Challenge Port Louis also saw the Saturday Budget Marine Races 4 Sunday was the day of the But the Easter fun wasn’t over yet. Next came the The 5th Annual Grenada Round-the-Island Easter For complete racing results visit Restaurant & Bar followed as guests were invited to Restaurant & Bar followed of the Tivoli Drummers. dance to the rhythms and dinner, danc- Following the prize-giving ceremony of the Back in Time band. ing was to the popular tunes Chris Mayhew, captain of for dancing into the night. into the for dancing the ages success with 22 sailors between Race, a great The triangle taking part in five races. of eight and 15 ideal. Danny Prickly Bay beach was course off the to all Port Louis presented certificates Donelan from prizes to the and Budget Marine gave those competing came Laser Class, Nick Goodchild winners. In the Martin; the Optimist Class, Kendall first; in the Kite was won by Kimo Sampson. Mosquito Class land activi- flying was a highlight of the building and sailors. ties for the junior wind conditions off the and 5, again with excellent overall placing for each south coast to decide the class. place in the Cruising secured the overall winner’s Braithwaite’s Class for the race series. Darryl Wind celebrations on Easter Monday’s “Fun in the Sun” day, also at the Beach House Restaurant. Maypole dancers came from Windsor Forest, the Grenada Salsa dancers performed, and David Emanuel and his band played a great set. There were hidden toys for the Easter hunt, which the kids loved, and a running race for prizes. The garden setting was ideal for the occasion. The biggest laugh was the bungee pulling challenge that got everyone on the beach involved. There was much cheering when a competitor managed to reach the beer bottle — and it got moved another yard farther away! Prizes donated by Digicel were received by all the winners. Regatta was a hit for sailors, landlubbers, juniors, kids, sponsors and hosts! www.aroundgrenada.com. “The location for the prize-giving was excellent and the “The location for the prize-giving food was superb!” Below: On the Saturday, junior racers showed their style, too Below: On the Saturday, junior racers showed their style, Left: Tight action was the rule on Good Friday and Easter Left: Tight action was the rule in Cruising Class off Sunday as all monohulls raced Grenada’s south coast

PHOTOS (2): WWW.MIKETOY.COM accommodating boats up to 200 ft. slips, as well as 32 moorings. 110/220 v (50 Hz) & water at each slip. MARTIN’S MARINA OFFERS: MARTIN’S • 53 slip concrete marina • 42 stern-to-slips & 11 alongside • High capacity electrical services • 20 ft of draft off the deepest dock. prize-giving, hosted by the another catamaran, got her Martin’s blew her jib off the north end PM , situated on the Sasha, at 5 hours and 50 minutes. It was a Shadowfax GRENADA is considered one of the by Wanda Brown Nicholas set a new record for the fastest monohull: actual Huff N Puff Martin’s Marina Martin’s south coast of Grenada, is one of the finest marinas. Located Caribbean’s outside of the hurricane belt in the well protected and sheltered waters of Mount Hartman Bay, Marina in the Caribbean. safest marina’s All this is located conveniently close to the entertainment and shopping centers, as well as the International Airport. The after-race party on Saturday was excellent, with Fifteen yachts registered for the Round-the-Island Fifteen yachts registered for Grenada Board of Tourism’s Yachting & Cruise Development Officer, Ian Winsborrow. Jacqui Pascall presented the Carib Cup and Peter Blake trophies to the Round-the-Island Race’s first-place winner, Champie Evans. This was followed by an enthusiastic Carib beer-drinking competition, which was well sup- ported. Barracuda and his band supplied great music hull record for the fastest time around the island, held by windy day, and in the 20 to 22 knots of breeze Roger Spronk’s cat of the island and spinnaker jammed at the finish line. Although the multihull record was unbroken, Champie Evans on Julia time around the island was 6 hours, 3 minutes and 49 seconds, for a corrected time of 5 hours, 32 minutes and 25 seconds. This made for an exceptionally exciting Race Three as well as the great news that the Carib Cup will stay at home in Grenada. Well done to Champie and crew! steel band music provided by Angel Harps and sponsored by Republic Bank. This Carib Cup party drew the crowds for the 8:00 hour happy hour at Prickly Bay Marina’s after party. hour happy hour at Prickly two classes: Multihull and race on Saturday, to race in was to break the multi- Monohull. The big challenge came called third. That Survivor came in third. Morning Tide, Aquilo Morning Tide Blew by You; Morning Tide second, and GRENADA ROUND-THE-ISLAND EASTER REGATTA 2007 REGATTA EASTER ROUND-THE-ISLAND GRENADA Beex

Winds and spirits were high as a record was broken Winds and spirits were high The early Thursday afternoon arrival of a feeder Weather conditions were excellent off the south Morris, captain of overall winner

at the 5th Annual Grenada Round-the-Island Easter at the 5th Annual Grenada 5th through 9th, was Regatta. The event, held April Trinidadian Peter hosted by Prickly Bay Marina. High Spirits High High Winds and Winds High race from Trinidad at Prickly Bay Marina kicked off the Easter festivities. After sailing up from Trinidad with favorable wind and sea conditions the event “a very enjoyable and exciting Grenada Easter Regatta.” He added, “The boats raced closely together and the Round-the-Island Race was a classic!” in first, coast on Good Friday for two races sponsored by Prickly Bay Marina. On this day, as well as on Sunday, all boats raced in one class, Cruising. Race One was voided because the southern mark drifted away, but Race Two more than made up for it, with first place going to Robbie Yearwood’s was followed by a Welcome Party, which, like all the regatta’s land events, was open to the public and had great turnout. took second and Mike Williams’ Grenada Board of Tourism Director Joycelyn Sylvester Gairy joined Peggy Cattan, race coordinator, and Jacqui Pascall, event coordinator, at the day’s prize- giving ceremony. David Emanuel and his band played lively music during the Westerhall Estate Rum’s two- MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 island’s regattasopopular. great racingandhospitalitythatmakethistiny come toBequiain2008sampleforthemselvesthe ing boatsfromaroundtheregionwillbeencouragedto built asuperbRacingClass.Thehopenowisthatrac- Bequia RegattaRaceCommitteehasinrecentyears the helpofenthusiasticFrenchracingboats, Dreams’: “Ifyoubuildit,theywillcome…”?Well,with Remember thephrasefrommovie‘Fieldof yes, andtheydon’tcareahootaboutcricket…) know howtopartyeveryoneelseunderthetable!(Oh Bequia atregattatime;andnumberthree—they every race;numbertwo,theysimply icated tocompetingatthehighestpossiblelevelin they areextraordinarilycommittedracers,utterlyded- have beencomingtoBequiasince2000.Numberone, about thegrowingnumberofMartiniquansailorswho highly competitivethree-raceseries. Class toarecord14entries,creatingthrillingand Martinique. TheFrenchboatsswelledtheRacing full thirdofthetotalentry,infact)wasfrom record-breaking total.Byfarthelargestcontingent(a with 36yachtssignedup,justshortoflastyear’s the regattaonablustery,sunnyGoodFridaymorning attendance. Whatadelightitwas,then,tobestarting region andtherewerefearsthatthiscouldaffect on effect—particularlytravelthroughoutthe aware thattheCricketWorldCupwashavingaknock- organizers intherun-uptoEaster.Theywerealso 2007 withnearperfectsailingweather. April 4th,justintimetoblessBequiaEasterRegatta winds andconstantrain,theweatherfinallyturnedon with aFrenchTwist! There areafewthingsthatneedtobesaidupfront But itwasn’tonlytheweatherthatwasworrying After aweekormoreofleadengreyskies,fluky Bequia Regatta – BEQUIA EASTERREGATTA2007:THEYACHTRACES by NicolaRedway love to bein for NicolasGilleton Below: ThreefirstsoutofthreeinRacingClass days offirstclasscompetitionacrosstheboard. gaff schoonerinCruisingII,thestagewassetforfour looking BequiaRegattadebutantesandevena60-foot Class, andamixedbagofregulars,someinteresting- With sixBequiaRegattaregularsintheCSACruisingI fleet fortheirspeciallydesignedsix-racecompetition. St. Lucia,BarbadosandVincentmakingupthe exceeded expectations,withsevenboatsfromGrenada, But backto2007:TurnoutintheJ/24Classalso Clippers Ship

—Continued onnextpage —Continued ALL PHOTOS: WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED PHOTOS: ALL MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Sea GFA all of into third place. In the Hotel California Too, —Continued on next page , Ben Jelic on the Kiwi 35 came in way ahead with an impres- , both from Martinique. Patrick Clippers Ship Jump Up Virgo Virgo reigned supreme over the young bucks, coming , who in turn beat the seemingly unbeatable and and Steve Schmidt on individual seamanship. The results? Regis Guillemot on Hallucine in 90 seconds ahead of Emmanuel Velasquez on Caraibes Nicolas Gillet on non-CSA Class there were just two boats entered — Actuel Velasquez on sive corrected time of 173.29 — faster than all but the top four boats in the single-handed CSA/Spinnaker Class. them eager to prove their skills in this demanding test of results and the prospects for the final race on Monday. results and the prospects for race, which for Sunday’s Round the Island single-handed to be flown in the the first time was allowing spinnakers a real buzz of excitement. CSA Class, was also creating Eight French boats were joined by Barbados veteran Jerome Reid on Devil taking In Cruising Virgo Banana Wind who in turn was and Peter “Wipers” with again took first and sec- Jaystar, Hotel California Too. who was the clear winner, coming Jabulani, earned a long awaited Overall First in Cruising I earned a long awaited Overall Hot Chocolate In the end it was one, two, three for and and Jaystar Magic Jabulani. Dubloon of Marigot Jabal, Banana Wind, HOIC, With a series of three races for the J/24s on Easter Sunday: Solitaire and Sunshine When the second get-together party and daily prize- Ron Hunt’s skippered by Regis Guillemot. In Cruising I, this time it skippered by Regis Guillemot. was of in a full five minutes ahead ahead of Steve Schmidt’s five minutes of corrected time majestic Santa Cruz 70 II, C&Cs ond, with Martinique’s Patrick Velasquez on a well-earned third after missing Friday’s race when his boom broke at the start. Saturday, it came down to a tussle between four boats — Hoad’s Jabal, HOIC squeezed out by just one point. giving took place at the Porthole Restaurant on Saturday afternoon, the talk this time was not only about the day’s Open Banana , skippered and Arthur once again that the sleek Open 45 took third place, , skippered by Gerard , skippered by Clippers Ship Clippers for second place. Over in Destiny, Hallucine, Clippers Ship skippered by Nick Forsberg, Ascee Equipement who came in ahead of C&C 38 who came in ahead of C&C and , who beat out Kent Richardson’s , who beat out Jabal, GFA Caraibes Magic Dark Star , a Jeanneau Sunrise from Martinique , a Jeanneau Sunrise from skippered by Rich Washington, with a skippered by Rich Washington, Actuel , an A40 skippered by Bastien Legloahec. Third for third and fourth places respectively. for third and fourth was the clear winner over John Verity’s Sigma was the clear Open the Barre in second and Lucian Jerry Bethel’s in second and Lucian Jerry in third. With a number of (thankfully temporary) in third. With a number of (thankfully Dubloon of Marigot A Very Good Friday A Very but Friday took all on Good Bay Race The Friendship In Cruising I, Barbadian Ron Hunt on his J/30 Barbadian Ron Hunt on In Cruising I, The J/24s had a shorter version of the scenic The J/24s had a shorter Saturday Around Bequia Saturday morning broke clear, but by 10:30 the clouds the J/24s around the outer islands on the south side of on the south outer islands around the the J/24s Surprise The super-fast Bequia. —Continued page from previous place Gillet took first Nicolas talented 24-year-old by the minutes on romping home in 136.66 in Racing Class, of another nearly three minutes ahead corrected time, French Surprise, Hot Chocolate, 33 Beneteau 456 on corrected time. Another margin of just 23 seconds racing in his beauti- Bequia newcomer, Peter Bennett, ful dark-hulled C&C 44 Jaystar Corlay. A mere 0.25 seconds of corrected time separated 0.25 seconds of corrected time Corlay. A mere B28 Jack Arthaud’s pink Surprise crew on the familiar bright Villain’s teenage W.I.N.D. newcomer Ken Campbell Cruising II it was dark horse in his C&C 51 ahead of Friendship Bay course for their first day of racing, and Friendship Bay course for their it was St. Lucia’s skippered by old-timer Gaetan de la Goublaye. With skippered by old-timer Gaetan places, the battle for C&Cs taking the top three was well and truly on. supremacy amongst them was the stand-out winner, with a five-minute (corrected time) gap between them and the second-placed boat had lowered and some ugly squalls came in, which chal- lenged both the yacht racers and the local double-enders that caught the worst just as they were starting on their first race. But the skies soon cleared, the wind settled and by the end of the day another great day’s racing was in the bag. In Racing Class it was place was close — only 15 seconds of corrected time separated who came in well ahead of Carriacou’s Jerry Stewart on who came in well ahead of Carriacou’s HOIC Wind at the results and daily breakdowns on Day 1, the talk Hotel that night was all prizegiving at the Frangipani day’s Round the Island about the challenge of the next Race, with the field pretty much wide open in all classes and more good sailing weather anticipated. the Barre MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 beat outthevastlymore(Bequia)experienced very greatcredit, and FirstOverall,buttoeveryone’sdelighttheir Ship year, conventionwassomewhatupturned. the boysandoldhandsfromrookies,butthis Triangle raceisfamousforseparatingthemenfrom all day,therewastrulysomethingforeveryone. good-natured beachsplashandstreetfêtetakingplace beach tobereadyfortheirstartonMonday.Witha their Sundayrace,thenreturningtopulluponthe full fleetof32localboatstakingofffromtheshorefor Race inLowerBay,anddrinkthespectacleof the popularSandcastleCompetitionandCrazyCraft another gloriouslysunny,breezydayonwhichtoenjoy —Continued frompreviouspage —Continued Bequia’s tacticalEasterMondayAdmiraltyBay Tactical TrianglesonMonday For everyonebutthesingle-handersitwasLayDay… beat outastrongfieldinCruisingII Ken Campbell’sC&C51 raced truetoform,takingfirstinRacingClass W.I.N.D, Magic with theirteenagecrew, Clippers GFA angle courseprovedcriticalfor overall results.InCruisingII,familiaritywiththetri- and by onepoint.InCruisingI,itwas Overall, beatingOverallThirdwinner on correctedtime.ThisresultearnedthemSecond Caraibes place aheadofnewcomer firsts onDaysOneandTwo. came outastheclearOverallWinnerwithhistwo (and henceOverallSecond)while Destiny fourth place,giving Destiny Minister SirJamesMitchellandDr.GodwinFriday, Prize-giving onEasterMonday.FormerSVGPrime Frangipani Hotel’swaterfrontspacefortheGrand ages andfromallsidesoftheregattagatheredin A happyandboisterouscrowdofcompetitorsall Dark Star by amere14secondsinMonday’sracetotake by asinglepoint. to takesecondplacebyamere2.4seconds in first,secondandthird,echoingthe Actuel Overall Third—aheadof Magic Hot Chocolate www.caribbeancompass.com N Wir sprechenDeutsch Phone/Fax: 784 4583360email:[email protected] Virgo, , whonevertheless ous parlonsFrançais Hablamos Español Jaystar, Dubloon, Leatherman Accessories Garmin GPS Icom VHF Ascee Equipment Actuel who tookfirst made third pipped for themasks. masks, finsandsnorkels.Weevenhaveprescription lenses YOU tosucceed. pride insharingourexpertisewithyoubecausewewant reel tohelpyouwinthenextfishingtournament.Wetake just rightforthespeedofyourboat,orgoarodand Come tousandgettherightscrewswithitonetime. as wellnecessaryaccessoriesandspares. been seekingforages.Weofferawiderangeofhardware Caribbean.” Wanderaround.Youwillfindthingsyouhave Electronics, marineelectronics,12&24volts, inverters, ware, blocks,cleats,SSfasteners,rope,Spectra, pumps, lights, sockets,navigation,charts,guides,marine hard- Diving orsnorkeling?Wehaveitall:suits, tanks, belts, Want tocatchfish?Getasimplehandlinewithlure Looking foratablehinge,hatchspring,orladder? Some peoplecallusthe“mostinterestingshopin it’s March20thto24th! Easter Regatta2008,somakeanoteinyourdiary— Bequia’s premierevent. donors largeandsmallfortheirvitalsupportof Cruise ClubandtheFrangipaniHotel,toallother Digicel, MountainTopSpringWater,Tradewinds Sport andYouth,Heineken,MountGay,Pepsi, Thanks mustgotosponsorsSVGMinistryofTourism, the exceptional smoothly runandchallengingyachtracesbutalsofor Best DressedCrew! (predominantly female)RaceCommittee’sawardfor and withtrulynohintofsexismwhatsoever,wonthe enth, competedtenaciouslythroughouttheweekend, Surprise the determinedyoungall-girlcrewonMartinique’s were loud,butperhapstheloudestreservedfor serious businessofprize-givingbegan.Allthecheers all-volunteer teamandtothecompetitors.Then speeches ofthanksbothtotheBequiaSailingClub’s M.P. fortheNorthernGrenadines,eachgaverousing hoses, completediving,snorkelingandfishing gear. It reallywasaterrificregatta—notonlyforthe Everyone isalreadylookingforwardtoBequia Studio10 LePonton J/24 bonhomie Jabal , skipperedbyNickForsberg, that pervadedtheevent. The ONLYDutyFree Chandlery inBequia who placedoverallsev- triumphed inJ/24class Penn Service Penn Parts Penn Reels and repair MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 ‘Get ready!’ Class 5A boats prepare for the Easter Sunday start at Lower Bay of Bad Feeling , while another… —Continued on next page Never D , skippered by Damien Bess of Lady G Easter Sunday, combining the mounting excite- combining the mounting Easter Sunday, reached its peak, and Onshore the music has It’s the last day of Monday has finally come. Later on Monday evening the grand prizegiving is Bequia. Class 2 sees a tie between Mayreau and Bequia’s the race has begun, again starting with Class 1. begun, again starting with the race has Bay fol- the boats head out of Lower Class by class, required. lowing the route a single- Two for the double-enders, ment of Race beach fête the yachts and a day-long handed race for part of Bequia’s Regatta. for all, seems to be the best a chance to It also gives the local entrepreneurs barbecues and sell to bring out their ice boxes and all of the fishingboat the unquenchable crowd. After fans migrate to various classes have started, race island to follow every tack vantage points around the loudly agreeing or dis- made by their favorite boats, agreeing with each move. Rip Curl dressed men flocks of bikini-clad ladies and I join in, too, hardly walk the hot roads barefoot. caress cold beers and noticing the rising heat. People shifting to the rhythm of other “cool downers”, slowly on, many retire early to the music. As the day wears prepare for the next day’s race. and although every- Bequia’s annual regatta festival, and last-minute, everything has become rushed It’s the Mount Gay one’s eager for the final race. boats begin in Lower Bay race, a shorter course. The and head downwind for West Cay. Classes 1 and 2 round a mark off Moonhole; the bigger boats beat up around Middle Cay and then run back down the Paget Farm passage. All classes tack back into Admiralty Bay where the racing concludes and onshore the Almond Tree fête goes full speed ahead with lots of food and drinks and live music. Like I always say, “It ain’t ah party unless yo’ got music!” held at the Frangipani Hotel, which is also race headquarters. The first place trophy for Class 1 is presented to with the AM brunch, which was held this brunch, which , another creation from Bequia , provided serious competition. by Kedisha Compton by Kedisha Compass , one of the fastest boats in its class, did , one of the fastest boats in BEQUIA EASTER REGATTA 2007: THE FISHINGBOAT RACES FISHINGBOAT THE 2007: REGATTA EASTER BEQUIA

Sweet Image Cloudy Bay

The first race for the Grenadines’ fishingboats was The first race for the Grenadines’ I am awakened by the On Sunday, the 8th of April, The race begins around 10:00 Thirty-two double-enders took part this year, rac- took part this Thirty-two double-enders

They say the way to a man’s heart is through his way to a man’s heart is through They say the Winners, Old and New and Old Winners, the Pepsi Challenge, on Saturday April 7th, which the Pepsi Challenge, on Saturday smallest boats, Class 1, began at Friendship Bay. The boats, the 28-footers in started first. As the biggest squall blew in, resulting Class 7, set out a large dark a boat from Carriacou. in a collision that damaged Point in Admiralty Bay, The race finished at Hamilton to Lower Bay, where then the fleet then sailed down to begin. the next day’s race was scheduled the beach in Lower Bay sound of sails flapping on halyards against masts. and the steady ringing of Today’s race is the Heineken Challenge, starting at Lower Bay, going around the Admiralty mark, out past the North West mark, then down to the Ship’s Stern mark — with Classes 1 and 2 making one lap; Classes 4 through 7 making two laps — then to the finish back at the Admiralty mark. It is a windy, hot day; after many previous days of rain the weather is finally paying respect to the regatta fans and players. boatbuilder Arnold Hazell, competing in Class 5A. boatbuilder Arnold Hazell, Perseverance boat built by Arnold not race this year, but another Hazell, ing in seven length-based classes, with entries from ing in seven length-based classes, competing with Mayreau, Canouan and Carriacou one new addition: the the Bequia boats. There was 18-foot year at world-famous Mac’s Pizzeria, I said “Yes”.… Mac’s Pizzeria, I said year at world-famous stomach. It must be true for women as well, because be true for women as well, stomach. It must Regatta write about the Bequia Easter when asked to at the annual Commodore’s hoarse voice being heard loud and clear over the hand-held speaker: “To your places, the race is about to begin!” There are a few mur- murs, followed by a “Get ready”. The spectators give their undivided attention, and photographers scurry around to get their best shot. The horn blares and MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 it wasahsuccess”. although theweekendhasonlyjustended,“demsay Mount GayandPepsi.Goodnewstravelsfast sponsors MountainTopSpringWater,Heineken, all firstinClass7. another well-seasonedregattacompetitor,toanover- takes topplace.AndLachieKingskippers whaleboat is arealold-timer’sturn:the130-year-oldBequia skippered byEkronBunyan,triumphs.InClass6it Class 5A.In5B,therecentlymodified as “newkidontheblock”withanoverallfirstin Image this year.) captures tophonorsinClass4.(Therewasno3 …Mayreau boat, frompreviouspage —Continued There isahugecelebrationwithdrinkscourtesyof Bequia boatsdominatethebiggerclasses. a roostertail Class 5B’soverallwinner , skipperedbyRobertHazell,provesherworth Iron Duke Mariann , skipperedbyCourtneyAdams, skippered byBonnieForde, Shamu kicks up Shamu Sweet Bluff , , 2) 1) (tie) Class 2 3) 2) 1) Class 1 FISHINGBOATS 2007 OverallWinners Bequia EasterRegatta 2) 1) Class 4 3) Martinique, boatfromCanouan My Love De Reef Red Saw Lady G Libity Marian Ark Royal Bad Feelings Never D , ElmoreSnagg,Canouan , BonnieForde,Mayreau , DamienBess,Bequia , DicksonBynoe,Bequia , StanleyHarry,Bequia , ManTawe,Bequia , RoyDecoteau,skipperfromPetite , CephusGurley,Bequia

, SamuelForde,Mayreau PHOTOS (2): WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED (2): PHOTOS 2) 1) Racing Class YACHTS 2) 1) Class 6 1) Cruising One 3) 2) 1) Class 7 3) (3-waytie) 2) 1) Class 5B 3) 2) 1) Class 5A 2) 1) J/24 3) 2) 1) Cruising Two 3) 2) 3) 3) Gaetan delaGoublaye,Martinique W.I.N.D. Clippers Ship Trouble Iron Duke Jaystar Ascee Equipement Passion Bluff Arrow Shamu Nerissa J Tornado Sweet Image HOIC Jabal Actuel Hot Chocolate Magic Dark Star Dubloon ofMarigot Cloudy Bay Banana Wind , LachieKing,Bequia , JerryStewart,Carriacou , NickForsberg,St.Lucia , C&C51,KenCampbell,USA , RoryKing,Bequia , JeanneauSunrise, , EkronBunyan,Bequia , EvanChambers,Bequia , J/30,RonHunt,Barbados , MatthewJoseph,Carriacou , Surprise,ArthurVillain,Martinique , KingsleyStowe,Bequia , MikeHarry,Canouan , Beneteau456,KentRichardson,USA , CourtneyAdams,Bequia Worries Devine Shannalou , TrevorAdams,Bequia voted ‘BestDressedCrew’ , RobertHazell,Bequia , Surprise,NicolasGillet,Martinique , JerryBethel,St.Lucia , C&C38,RichWashington,USA Studio 10LePonton , DelaceyLeslie,Bequia , B28,JackArthaud,Martinique , AndyMitchell,Bequia , Sigma33,JohnVerity,St.Lucia , RayLeslie,Bequia MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 Sometimes when a hurricane runs over a particular- Sometimes when a hurricane stumble if it passes over Similarly, a hurricane can over warm water it So long as the hurricane remains Wind Shear, What is It? the National Hurricane Over and over again in Wind shear is the difference between the wind speed Here’s why: The center of a hurricane system What is Coriolis Force? Coriolis Force plays a part in the formation of hur- The equator is 25,000 miles long. Imagine standing So imagine standing in Jacksonville, Florida, at In the southern hemisphere Coriolis deflects trajec- Next month, Understanding Caribbean Weather, Part ly warm spot in the ocean (an anomaly) such as the ly warm spot in the ocean it goes through a rapid Gulf Stream or a warm eddy, first recognized the intensification. Meteorologists eddies during Hurricane importance of deep, warm a warm-water eddy in Opal in 1995. Opal encountered in intensity from the Gulf of Mexico and strengthened in only 14 hours. Both Category 1 to Category 4 to Category 5 over Katrina and Rita in 2005 intensified hot eddies in the Gulf of Mexico. as a the track of a recent a cooler area of water such that it is rare to have hurricane. This is one reason same general area in the two intense storms in the same season. hits land the source of fuel may gain strength. Once it (pun intended). is gone and it runs out of steam Center forecasts and Jeff Master’s blog (www.wunder- ground.com/blog/JeffMasters) we’ve been hearing the words “wind shear” when a low threatens to develop into a tropical system. Low wind shear is necessary for hurricanes to develop and high wind shear can cripple or collapse a storm which already has developed. and direction at the jet stream level and that at the surface. Ideally a developing hurricane wants zero wind shear — that is, no difference in speed or direction of the wind at all levels from the surface up to about 40,000 feet. Wind shear of 20 knots or less is considered “favorable for hurricane development”. becomes a hollow column, like a drinking straw, around which warm, moist air is sucked aloft. The column pumps up water vapor which cools and condens- es, releasing untold energy and lots of rain. This heat pump is the engine driving the hurricane. The straighter and more vertical it is, the better it will pump. Higher winds aloft will tilt the column; a different wind direction aloft will also tilt it. Enough tilt and the upper level core will be torn away and detached from the circulation feeding it from below, killing the heat engine and destroying the system. ricanes and in steering them once they form. But what is it? on the equator for a full 24 hours. As the earth spun through one revolution you would travel 25,000 miles to the east in 24 hours — about 1,000 miles per hour. But if you stood still at one of the poles for a whole day, you would not have traveled at all since you are at the center, the axis, of the earth’s rotation. (However, you would have very cold feet.) Points between the equator and the poles move at different rates; fastest closest to the equator. Points at 30° north or south latitude, for example, move at about 850 mph. 30°N and hurling a ball directly south aiming at the point on the equator. You would be aiming for Quito, Ecuador. As you let go of the ball, you, the ball and Jacksonville are traveling east at about 850 mph but Quito is traveling east at 1,000 mph. By the time your ball dropped on the equator, Quito would have moved well off to the east. The ball would fall into the Pacific. If you drew a line on the globe to follow the trajectory of the ball, it would curve off to the right of your intended flight. Play the same mental game for throwing a ball from Quito aimed at Jacksonville directly to the north and you get the same result — the trajectory gets bent to the right because the ball is moving east faster than Jacksonville. In fact, any flight of the ball in the northern hemisphere will be deflected to the right. The apparent force causing this movement is named the Coriolis Force. And it doesn’t just affect balls! Air currents are subjected to the same force. tories to the left. Imagine flinging that ball again! This makes southern hemisphere tropical storms spin clockwise, not counterclockwise as they do here in the north. Two: South Atlantic Hurricanes, Scatterometers, Weather Models and some Useful Weather Info Sources.

WWW.SSEC.WISC.EDU/.../ ERIN_MODIS-1.HTML Imagine standing just inside the inverted V. Winds If the ITCZ gets involved at the same time, push- These conditions of interaction between a tropical Hurricanes and Water Temperatures If you go to Chris Parker’s site The average hurricane releases energy each day In order to have an adequate source of surface energy, What Causes Hurricanes in the Mid-Atlantic? What Causes Hurricanes near tropical waves. Most Atlantic hurricanes start See the power? The average hurricane releases energy each day equivalent to 200 times the electric generating capacity of the entire world. All that energy comes from warm water on both sides are trying to spin you counter-clockwise, down-left and up-right. It’s a prime location for cyclonic circulation to begin. ing north with a bump protruding into the inverted V of a wave, it brings the southern trades into the picture. Now well north of the equator, the southern trades bend to the right due to Coriolis Force adding westerly winds to the open bottom of our inverted V; this strong force helps the system to rotate counterclockwise. wave and a northern bump in the ITCZ are often impli- cated in forming tropical systems and can be the birthplace of hurricanes. (http://caribwx.mwxc.com/marine.html) at this time of year, the first thing in his forecast is the SST — the Sea Surface Temperature. Of course, the reason is that SST is perhaps the most important factor in the formation of hurricanes. equivalent to 600 terawatts, six times 1014 Watts. What the heck does that mean in real-life terms? It’s 200 times the electric generating capacity of the entire world. All that energy comes from the warm water. After a hurricane passes, sea temperatures are cooler by as much as 6° C (11° F), in one case of a super typhoon 9°C (16°F). All that energy has been absorbed into the weather system with the evaporating water. the ocean should be at least 26°C (79°F). Furthermore, this layer of warm water should be at least 200 feet deep. As the passing hurricane stirs up the water it can kill itself by dredging up water that is too cool. behind the sun’s annual north-south migration by behind the sun’s annual ITCZ is farthest north in about two months, so the It is no coincidence that August, typically about 10°N. season. this is also prime hurricane wind patterns associated We’ve all experienced the north of east as the wave with a tropical wave; wind behind it. Imagine rid- approaches and south of east You look down and see ing a satellite above the wave. wave are coming from the the winds to the left of the from your viewpoint northeast — angling downward to the right of the wave are while the southeast winds equator. The cloud forma- angling upward from the these “down left” and tions near tropical waves show known as the signature “up right” patterns and are a tropical wave, visible in “inverted V curvature” of satellite imagery. winter the our Some Basic ‘Whats’ and ‘Whys’ and ‘Whats’ Basic Some by Clayton Lewis by Clayton

Part One: Part

When Fiona and I were asked to take over the daily When Fiona and I were asked From? Where Do Tradewinds Come the world at the equa- Imagine a belt of air around the poles eventual- Altitude and movement towards The global effect is an equatorial band of hot, low The Coriolis force (more information later) bends What’s a Tropical Wave? The flow of the tradewinds in the band between the Tropical waves don’t form every two days except in What is the ITCZ? If you’ve read the classic cruising books — Eric The ITCZ, a.k.a. the doldrums, varies from about Strong winter trades in either hemisphere push the

VHF weather report for the Cruisers’ Net in Trinidad for VHF weather report for the we decided to include a a couple of weeks last season These weather tid- daily item of weather information. and we thought they bits got good reviews from cruisers who sits out the hurri- might be of interest to anyone reports every day. They cane season checking weather on what’s behind those provide a little background you to understand some weather reports and will help of the terminology. than other regions of the tor; it receives more sun equatorial band high into world. Hot air rises from this to go but away from the atmosphere. It has nowhere upper air flows — one the equator, causing strong one toward the south pole. toward the north pole and substantial cooling both ly cool these flows and after of the falling (weather air masses start to fall. Most reports call this subsidence) is in the area around 30° north latitude and 30° south latitude. pressure air and mid-latitude bands of cooler, high pressure air, one in each hemisphere. These global pressure differences (which meteorologists call gradi- ents) cause air to flow from the high pressure mid-latitudes toward the low pressure equator. these flows toward the west and they become the well-known north and south tradewind belts. Tradewinds are weaker in the summer, when there is less temperature difference between the equator and the mid-latitudes. They are strongest in the winter when the mid-latitudes are much colder, causing the strong trades we know as Christmas winds in the northern hemisphere. equator and mid-latitudes can be affected by land features. During the summer in particular the strong contrast in Africa between the wet equatorial jungles and the dry, hot Sahara to the north has a powerful influence on the northern hemisphere tradewind flow. Think of the tradewind flow as a river and the African climate contrast as a writhing disturbance that tends to disrupt the flow. The result is that waves form in the river of air. These waves have a period of about two days and, like any wave, consist of low and high pressure bands. The bands stretch north and south from the equatorial area upwards to mid-latitudes. You can think of them as enormous rollers that form over Africa and roll west. The troughs, that is, the low-pressure parts of the waves, are called Tropical Waves. When a trough reaches far north it’s called a “high amplitude” wave; “low amplitude” waves don’t stretch very far northward. the peak of the summer. If they did, the six-month hurricane season from June through November should see about 90 tropical waves. Instead we get about 60 per year as the historical average. Hiscock or Miles and Beryl Smeeton — you will have read about the doldrums. In this era of acronyms that very descriptive word has been replaced by “the ITCZ,” the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone. What is converg- ing in the zone between the tropics are the two tradewind bands, the southern hemisphere trades and our northern hemisphere trades. The trades meet in the equatorial area where intense heat causes the rising of hot air. This is where the tradewinds finally taper off. The ITCZ is characterized by large amounts of moisture being driven aloft, resulting in heavy cloud formation, little wind and frequent showers and thun- derstorms. 20 to 150 miles wide and is most intense when it is narrowest. ITCZ away towards the other pole. So in Understanding Caribbean Weather Caribbean Understanding ITCZ is pushed south, as far as 5°S. Weatherman Eric Mackie (more information later) likes to say it is checking out the one-piece bikinis in Brazil. Likewise, strong winter trades in the southern hemisphere push the ITCZ north during our summer, sometimes as far as 15°N, bringing us unsettled weather as it passes over us. This north-south movement of the ITCZ lags MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 MI:[email protected] [email protected] EMAIL: • Visa/MasterCardaccepted • Activitydesk(Tours,divingandwatersportactivities) • Lightboatrepairandcleaning • YachtchandleryagentsofBudgetMarine • Telephone&internetWIFIconnection • Garbagedisposal • Cleanrestroomsandshowers • Bakery • Ice&Provisioning(Grocerystore) • Nightsecurity • Securedmoorings • Nearbylaundryservice • Dinghydock • Fuel(MarineDiesel)/Wateratthedock • DinghyBar We offerthefollowingtours: HIM HER HEN HEM HAS HAM FIR FIN FI FEN FAR FAN ERA ASH ARM ARE • OFFISLANDCHARTERS, MARTINIQUE DOLLY’S ANSWER & soonMercuryMarine Here are30words.Didyoufindanymore? • DAY SAILING•SUNSETCRUISES Fun SailTours Contact usforinformationorreservation: E:1-758-452-8490/1-758-713-4205 TEL: • PRIVATE CHARTERS OR TOBAGO CAYS [email protected] www.dominicamarinecenter.com Capitainerie Tel:+7672752851 THE CITYOFROSEAU UNIQUE INDOMINICA VHF: 16WorkingCH:19 SIR SIN SHE SEN SEA RIM RIA RAN RAM MEN MAR MAN IRE HIS Fax: +7674487701 SITUATED IN St. Lucia of fuelusebutinmaintenanceandrepairs. an inefficientwaytoproducepower,notonlyinterms either yourengineorgeneratorisaveryexpensiveand the dirtyblackexhaustfromsomeofthem. harmful —evenwhennew,andmoresoyousee marine enginesandgeneratorsexhaustsarestillvery alytic converterstoremoveharmfulpollutants,but exhaust fromtrucksandautostopassthroughcat- can. Legislationinmanycountriesrequiresthe ble andputaslittletoxicwasteintolandfillsiteswe pump asfewpollutantsintoouratmospherepossi- on thecausesofglobalwarming,itbeholdsallusto view), aredefinitelynot“green”.Whateveryourviews cation systemsandeverythingelseyoucanthinkof. ation, watermakers,lights,entertainmentandcommuni- after all,isourhome.Weneedpowertorunrefriger- after us.Butwestillwantthecomfortsofhome;this, not tospoiloursurroundingsforthosethatwillcome ful locationsandintunewithourenvironment,wetry and powermanagement.Livinginnature’smostbeauti- require two ormorehourscharging withagradually ishes. Sotobringyour batterybacktofullychargedmay tery, sotherateatwhich itwillacceptachargedimin- 50 ampsinitially,but asthechargelevelrisesinbat- ator torechargeit.The batterymayacceptachargeof amps foranhourfrom yourenginealternatororgener- tery chemistrywillnotallowyoutosimply pumpin50 be replacingyourbatteries. cycle themeverydaytheninlessthana yearyouwill er batteriesmayhavealifeof300cycles, soifyou recharging, thenthatisonecycle.Some ofthecheap- power usageyoutakeout50amp/hours before amp/hour capacitybatteryandduring yourdaily 50 percentcapacity”.Thatmeansifyou havea100 life expectancyisoftenquotedas“somany cyclesto time andthenjustchargethembackup again.Their you topowerallyourelectricalsystemsforaperiodof Deep cyclebatteriesaremuchmoreruggedtoallow recharge thebatteryassoonenginestarts. cycle”, becausethechargingsystemspringstolife Conventional autobatteriesarenotgenerally“deep quently usetheterm“deepcycle”batteries. the batteryandwayitisused.Advertisementsfre- they areheavyandexpensivetoreplace. boat batterieslast?Notlongenough,Isuspect,and vehicle. Itistechnicallypossible.Howlongdoyour in theworldhadabatterythatlastedlifeof much lesstoxicwastetherewouldbeifeveryvehicle cle batteryeverythreeorfouryears.Imaginehow owned autosortrucksandprobablyreplacedthevehi- essential tousingthemefficiently.Mostpeoplehave because someunderstandingofhowtheyworkis is asimplearticle,butI’lladdressthesubjectbriefly L There isalsoafinancialsidetothisaswell.Running Engines andbatteries,whileessential(atleastinmy The biggestproblemyouhaveisthatthecomplex bat- The lifeofabatteryisdependentonthequality Battery chargingisaverycomplexsubjectandthis Charging YourBatteries peaceful wayoflife.Butthisidyllicpictureis ONBOARD POWER iving onboardaboatcanpresentsimpler,more MANAGING YOUR often spoiledbytherealitiesofboatmaintenance by GlynJohnson every day. if weleaveiton!)then ituses4amp/hoursofpower tiply thatbythenumber ofhoursitisoneachday(24 voltage (12)showsit draws0.166ampsandifwemul- Garmin GPSisrated at2watts;dividingthatbythe 12-volt systemwouldberatedas120 watts.My can calculatethethird.Our10-ampwater pumpona tiplied bytheamps. nominal voltageofthesystem(12or24, usually) mul- used 10amp/hoursofpowerfromyourbattery. at, 10ampsandyouuseitforonehour then youhave for fivehours.Ifyourwaterpumprequires, orisrated tery will,intheory,provideuswith20amps ofenergy by theiramp/hourcapacity,soour100 bat- is ampsperhourday.Batteriesaregenerallysized using “somanyampsaday”whenwhatwereallymean we speakofpoweroftentalkaboutoursystems 15 yearswhenonlycycledby10percentofcapacity. perhaps threeyears,butthisincreasesto5,000cyclesor expectancy whencycledto50percentis1,000cyclesor tables forahigh-qualitybatteryindicatethatthelife then theirlifeexpectancywillbeextended.Published ies using30percentoftheircapacitybeforerecharging, cent level,dramaticallyshorteningitslifeexpectancy. be cyclingthatbatterybankdownbelowthe50-per- but onlyrechargingto80percent.Effectivelywewould daily 100amp/hoursfroma200-ampbatterybank able batterycapacity.Imagineweweredrawingour percent capacity,butthiseffectivelyreducesouravail- tor batterytemperaturestopreventdamage. venting over-charging,andinsomecasesevenmoni- ing voltageinstagestomaximisechargingwhilepre- take out.Your“smart”regulatorwillreducethecharg- you mayneedtoreplace110ampsforevery100 assuming thatyouonlyneedtoputbackin100amps. tery. So,that’satotalengine-runtimeofoversixhours, another threehoursatthisratetofullychargeourbat- only acceptachargerateof5ampsanditwilltake this weare95percentcharged,butnowthebatterywill accept achargingrateof10amps.After90minutes of thisourbatteryisat90percent,butwillnowonly now onlyacceptachargerateof30amps.Afteranhour increases andtoavoidoverheatingthebattery,itwill However, astheinternalresistanceofbattery and nowthebatteryisat80percentofitsfullcharge. we havereplaced40amp/hourspowerintothebattery quickly reducesto60amps.After40minutesruntime 105-amp alternatorwhichinitiallygivesus75ampsbut our dailydrainof100amp/hours.Ourenginehasa 300-amp batterybankwhichhasbeendischargedby to suittheindividualbatterytypeandcharacteristics. “smart” regulatorwhichwillcontroltherateofcharging reducing chargerate.Efficientchargingrequiresa As longasyouhavetwoofthethreeterms thenyou Power mayalsobereferredtoaswatts,which isthe The technicaltermscanbealittleconfusing,forwhen ‘Watt’ AreYouTalkingAbout? The converseisalsotrue.Ifyouonlycycleyourbatter- As ageneralrulemanycruisersonlychargeto80 In practicethesystemisnot100percentefficient; The effectofthismaybeillustratedifweconsidera

—Continued onnextpage —Continued JOHNSON fossil fuels need toburn most ofthisyacht’s generator eliminate panels andawind An arrayofsolar MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 PM VHF CH68 CH68 VHF Daily – 10:30 Phone (784) 458-3458 The Flamboyant Hotel AM 458-3758 AM lunch and dinner We serve breakfast, ) 784 The Flamboyant Hotel ( -midnight (50% off all drinks) PM Tel: (473) 444-4247 in Lower Bay,in Lower Bequia Tel: OPEN until 3 Admiralty Bay, Bequia Pool *** Sports TV *** & 11 Open Daily 6:00 MARTINIQUE Located at NOW AVAILABLE! PM For full details visit: RESTAURANT & BAR Candelight Dinners Monday to Saturday Monday PLEASE RESERVE! -7 Information & Reservation: (473) 444-4247 Cocktails *** Relaxation *** Parties *** Come and find us amongst the trees! & Shoreline Mini-Market BOATS FOR SALE FOR BOATS Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! Noelina & Lennox Taylor in Grenada for fun and fine food for in Grenada PM A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people. A friendly atmosphere where you www.acyachtbrokers.com Monday: Grenada Buffet & Crab Races Wednesday: Steel Band Music Friday: BBQ Dinner & Extempo Calypsonian BEACHSIDE TERRACE The home of Grenada’s Longest Happy Hour!! E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: 4 ★ Beachside Terrace - your special place special TerraceBeachside - your PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR & PORTHOLE RESTAURANT Port de plaisance du MARIN Port de Located directly on the beach at A&C YACHT BROKERS YACHT A&C www.caribbeancompass.com ON-LINE SUBSCRIPTIONS SS SS EE EE EE EE CC CC II II UU UU VV VV QQ QQ RR RR II II EE EE NN NN SS II SS II

TT TT KK KK RR RR II II AA AA HH HH MM CC MM CC II II Remember: every amp/hour of Remember: every amp/hour Making ‘Green’ Improvements to all Is there an easy answer Full Service Station: BB power efficient than desk-top units, power efficient DVD players can and portable to drive LCD televi- often be used than house- sions more efficiently hold units. power you save is one you won’t power you save is one you comes have to replace when it to charging. isn’t; if this? No, of course there doing it there were we would all be improve already. However, we can news is things greatly and the good very that the answer is definitely “green”. Solar- and wind-generated in the energy work well here reliable Caribbean because the avail- tradewinds and sunshine are year. able throughout the over Moreover, the charging period and all the daylight hours for solar us the time for wind power allows to charge that extra 20-percent battery capacity as well as reducing the degree of battery cycling. Solar panels will produce power even in BB Mobile: +696 29 28 12 Conveniently located at - Grocery - Ice - Cigarettes - Cold Drinks - Fuel/Diesel/Gas - Laundry - Call Station Tel: +596 74 70 94 Fax: +596 7478 08 Tel: Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: 7am to 1pm - Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) - Fishing Items Car type radio/CD players are notoriously inefficient are notoriously radio/CD players Car type are more manner, laptop computers In the same Unless we are designing our boat systems from We have sufficient panels to rely completely on solar So how much power can you expect? A 100-watt Carenantilles Dockyard LE MARIN you can sometimes retrofit additional insulation additional retrofit sometimes can you and much improve smaller to make the boxes inside their efficiency. used designed to be they are simply because in power of and plenty is running the vehicle engine when which is Try to find a system power is available. 12-volt input used on batteries with a designed to be much more have been designed to be and that will power efficient. overcast conditions, and it has to be a very dismal day to get no benefit from them at all. new, we have to live to some extent with whatever the builder decided we needed. However, the provision of supplementary charging will pay dividends in the long run with reduced generator or engine running time and longer battery life. Generators or engines should be run first thing in the morning when the batteries are likely to be at their lowest point of charge and ready to accept the maximum input. The bigger your battery bank, the greater the power input it will accept from your alternator, which should be sized accordingly. Solar panels can maintain your systems during the day and also improve on the state of charge so that your discharge period is reduced to the 14 hours of night. power, and a wind generator gives us a reserve on top of that. We have a house battery bank of 660 amp/hours capacity using gel batteries, which are in their tenth year of life and suffered from a poor charging regime in their first five years until we gradually developed our better power management. Our windlass battery is 17 years old and evidence of the relationship between depth of cycling and battery life! solar panel can produce 25 amp/hours of power a day if left in a fixed position, more if it is angled towards the sun throughout the day. Our wind generator is capable of producing 30 amps, but unless you like anchoring in very windy places the reality is perhaps 10 to 60 amp/hours a day. Recently in Falmouth Harbour, Antigua, with normal March conditions, we were running all our boat systems including refrigera- tor, separate freezer, and watermaker making 9 to 12 gallons a day, and had an excess of power most days. We often watch DVDs on our laptop and normally recharge that daily. We started with a wind generator and later added two 60-watt solar panels. We later added another two 75-watt panels and found we could manage with virtually no engine charging. When we put in our freezer we also added another two 80-watt panels to give us a total of 430 watts of solar energy. Thus it is a continual process of development to find what works for you. Didier and Maria Saturday by appointment tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 located at Carenantilles dockyard LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE e-mail: [email protected] Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) Voiles Assistance Many people would consider an electric head as tak- Maximising Your Efficiency How then do you maximise the efficiency of your High-efficiency lights use 20 percent of the power of Refrigeration is probably the biggest consumer of Understanding Your Requirements Your Understanding power require- to calculate your how Understanding ing way too much power, but when the flush cycle is less than 15 seconds and the amperage 16 amps, then you can flush your head 15 times a day for just 1 amp/hour of power. Electric heads often macerate the waste before discharge into a holding tank or overboard and as this aids the dispersal/treatment process their fitment may even be considered a green issue. power systems? First, you need to check you are not wasting power on systems that you don’t need all the time. As we have already seen, even very small units can use a lot of power if left on for a long time. conventional halogen or ordinary lights. The domestic- style high-efficiency lamps are now becoming available in 12- or 24-volt versions in a variety of sizes from 3 to 15 watts. The larger ones give off a similar amount of light as a normal domestic 75 watt bulb and would probably be too bright for anywhere but the largest cabins. LED lighting uses even less power, but the light is not to everyone’s taste. I use some excellent lights made by Alpenglow, which use a 9-watt PL type tube (compact fluorescent) with two power settings. These give a pleasant, warm light and two lights provide us with excellent illumination in the main cabin for just 0.6 amps per hour. power on most boats and in many cases this is exacerbated by poorly insulated boxes. It is possible to provide both refrigeration and freezer capabilities of a good size for 60 amp/hours a day or even less. I have come across 40-foot boats with 13-cubic-foot refriger- ators and 6-cubic-foot freezers. It is virtually impossible to maintain such systems away from the dock, but and jerry jugs to refill the main tanks and shower bags. So we actually pump about 3.25 gallons a day. Assuming the pump is only 30 percent efficient, then that means it runs for about three minutes a day or 1/20 of an hour. Multiply the amps (10) by 1/20, and the power used is 1/2 amp/hour a day. ments means you can make informed choices about choices make informed means you can ments them. I you operate and how you have what systems have a pressurised who won’t of people have heard power, but on board as it uses too much water system 10 amps My water pump draws lets work it through. minute. I use pumping 3.25 gallons a and is rated as half is fed gallons a day, of which over in total 6 to 8 for drinking my watermaker into bottles directly from —Continued page from previous Lighten up! High-efficiency bulbs use 20 percent of the power of conventional halogen or incandescent lights MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 Renewable Energy Go Green—Use and stayinginniceanchorages,withasmuchcomfortpossible.Butwecannot more boatsarriveeveryyear.Weallhavethesamedesire:wewanttoenjoysailing, about nature.Weshouldalsorespectourneighbours,whogetcloserandas wind isblowing,therewillalwaysbeenough“free”energytorunatinyelectricmotor. we evengotaglimpseofthem.Andbestall,aslongthesunisshiningand mals inthedensejungle.Theywouldnothearus,sotheyrunawaybefore lous tomotorupajunglerivernoiselessly,andhear,especiallysee,alltheani- for hoursinuttersilence.Iwasfascinatedbythis,andthoughtitwouldbemarvel- addition, hehasanelectricoutboardmotorforhisdinghy,which,oncecharged,runs ing machine,toaster,coffeefridge,freezer,microwave,TV,andsoon.In gives himenoughenergytorunhisnumerouselectricalunits—dishwasher,wash- teries. Fumesandnoisedonotbotherothers;fuelissaved. have tousetheirengineschargethebat- The effectisoutstanding:theseboatsdonot ning, inadditiontoacoupleofsolarpanels. have oneoreventwoofthesewindmillsrun- generators. Mostofthe“watercampers”now income overthelastfewyearsbysellingwind must havehadaremarkableincreasein ous solarpanels.Andtheyachtchandleries time stinkers”. of ourneighborsarenotlikethe“breakfast- tain privacy.Andevenmorefortunately,most anchor farenoughfromeachothertomain- still roomforeverybody,andusuallyboats a hundredyachts.Butfortunatelythereis alone 18yearsago,therearenowmorethan this hugebay,whereweanchoredtotally self andexpecttodowhateverhewants.In can anyonehaveananchoragejustforhim- plied enormouslyinrecentyears.Nolonger ran theirdivecompressorforanhour. when othersanchoredinfrontofthemand blows alltheirfumesintoourboat. are chargingtheirbatteries—whilethewind excuse. Butaftersometimewerealizethey think theyareweighinganchor,agood They arerunningtheirengine.Atfirstwe the five-mile-widebay.Andnow,guesswhat? though therewasamplespaceelsewherein rotten potato.No—evenworse! Caribbean thatpromisesawonderfuldayahead. A Usually peoplegosailingbecausetheylovenature,soweshouldbeconsiderate We metacatamaranownerwhohasmounted16solarpanelsonhisboat.This Nearly everyboatinthebaysportsnumer- The numberofcruisingyachtshasmulti- Some dayslaterthesepeoplecomplained Yesterday cruisershadcomeinanddecidedtoanchorjustfrontofus,even Suddenly anawfulsmelldisturbsourmorningritual.It’snotscorchedmilkora or# ChoiceforProvisioning Your #1 THE FOOD STORE Corea Fine Wine,Cheeses,FreshFruits,Vegetables odyStra:8mt 12pm&3pmto6pm Monday-Saturday: 8amto baked breadwithbutter,jam,Camembert,andsomedeliciouspâté,a nchored inawidebay,wesitourcockpitenjoyingbreakfastoffreshly etoverfromyesterday’sdinner.Itisoneofthoseserenemorningsinthe left Tel: (784)488-8479 Fax:(784)456-5230 by AngelikaGruener in theGrenadines. udy a o12pm Sunday: 9amto and ChoiceMeats ’ s Mustique habits can’tbotheranybodyelse. Otherwise theyshouldanchorfarbehindalltheotherboats,wheretheirstinky enough solarpanelsandwindgeneratorstosatisfytheirdemandforelectricity. answer is“no”,thentheyshouldembarkimmediatelyonanewproject:installing fumes fromneighbouringvesselswhiletheyareaboardtheirfloatinghomes.Ifthe of expensive,pollutingandnon-renewablefueltheyareusing! and noiseofaconstantlyrunningengine.AndIdonotwanttomentionthevolume day. Thosecruisersneverconsiderthepresenceofothersandeffectfumes teries andproduceeveryAmperebyrunningtheengine,sometimesmanyhoursa with one,oreventwo,units. the wholeanchorage. name andwithadifferentdesign.Youcanhearthemfromfaraway,throughout that suchnoisywindmillsarestillbeingbuiltandsold,albeitunderanother at 20knotsofwinditwasasnoisyahelicoptertake-off.Itisunbelievable that timethiswastheonlyoneavailable,andwewereveryhappywithit,evenif more energythantheoldoneslikeWindBuggerwebought18yearsago.At Caribbean Compass subscription to share withfriendsandfamily. each individualpageisprintable,for thosearticlesyouwanttofileor for thepostmantoarrive!Theentire on-lineissueisdownloadableand promptly everymonthwhile“backhome” —withoutanxiouslywaiting while traveling.On-linesubscribers willenjoythecomplete home, atwork(weassumemarine-related researchisapproved!)or articles, photosandadvertisements includingtheclassifieds—at be abletoreadeachcompletemonthly issue—everypage,withall www.caribbeancompass.com. Angelika GrueneriscruisingtheCaribbeanaboard I havetoaskthosepeopleiftheyenjoysufferinghoursofdieselorpetrolexhaust Only afewcruisersstillresistusingrenewableenergy.Theyprefertochargebat- But atleasttheyonlyrattle;donotsmell,liketheengineinyachtfront On-Line Subscriptions Check itout!Tell your friends!Forfulldetailsongetting youron-line When you’renotintheCaribbean,with anon-linesubscriptionyou’ll Great newsfor Now Available! Compass Compass are nowavailable! Compass , visitourwebsite:

readers —on-linesubscriptionsto BELA ALMEIDA BELA means moreelectricalpowerconsumption. the demandforcomfortisgettinghigher;that and/or moresolarpanels.AsIalreadynoted, to thinkaboutinstallingawindgenerator, gy. Ifyouhaveonlytwosolarpanels,itistime you arenotcapturingenoughrenewableener- either yourpowerconsumptionistoohighor els andwindgeneratorscanproduce,then engine. Ifyouneedmoreenergythansolarpan- ies withoutusingthegeneratorormain ure outhowtogetthisenergyintothebatter- power theirboatwillneedperday,andtofig- everybody hastocalculatehowmuchelectrical Nowadays, itshouldgowithoutsayingthat expect thisattheexpenseofothers’nerves. Wind generatorsnowadaysproducealot serious cruisingyachtsalreadyareequipped as thereisahugedemandforthem.Most wind generatorswillcomeontothemarket, hope thatmorehighlyefficientandnoiseless neighbours. Onemodelisalsoveryquiet.We or daywithoutdisturbingtheownersand without vibrationsothattheycanrunnight acceptable amountofenergyandrunning were onlytwobrandsleftproducingan do notbringmanyAmperes.Finally,there found completelysilentwindmills,butthey while thesolarpanelscan’twork.Nextwe there iswind,wewillneedawindgenerator nonsense! Duringnighthours,assuming night, otherwisesleepingisimpossible.What much thattheyhavetobestoppedduringthe found outthatsomearesonoisyorvibrate wind generatorseemstobethebest.We around theanchoragesandaskedwhich they content;arecomplaining?Wewent what othershave.Yougetnewideas.Are other boats.Itisalwaysinterestingtolearn erator, welookedandlistenedaroundon shipped infastenough. demand thatthechandleriescannotgetthem it ishardtogetthem.Theresuchhigh nice newoneshavecomeonthemarket,but generator. Injustthelastfewmonthssome be togetthequietestandmostefficientwind of us.Meanwhile,thegoalforcruisersshould Because weareinneedofanewwindgen- S/V Angelos. Compass MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 , Dinner PM - 6 Snorkeling AM & Diving Gear Courtesy Flags Collectable Knives SINCE 1950 BEQUIA YACHTSPEOPLE WEST INDIES There is nothing general about Basil’s , Lunch is served 11:00 Call 784-488-8407 FRONT STREET SERVING FISHERMEN AND SERVING FISHERMEN Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the AM Leaders Fresh Bait Rigged & Unrigged Foul Weather Gear

DUTY FREE Mustique Imagine, decorating your home with Antiques from Bali Call 784-457-2713 Visit us for all your needs Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for as the sea and as light as air... as bright Fabrics Clear-out sale - 50% off, over half of our inventory. Sale con- over half of our inventory. sale - 50% off, Clear-out efficiently arranged. Basil’s Bar EMAIL: [email protected] Wire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Ropes Wire, Floats, Nets, Twines, In St Vincent - near the port of Kingstown is an 18th century cob- In St Vincent

the island. www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com TEL: (784) 458-3420 FAX: (784) 458-3797 Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Basil’s in Mustique Visit WE SHIP TO ANY PLACE IN THE WORLD! TACKLE SHOP TACKLE Rods & Reels Anglers Lures FISHING & DIVING GEAR & DIVING FISHING Penn & Diawa Mustad Hooks LULLEY‘S YOUR #1 CHOICE IN FISHING GEAR YOUR #1 CHOICE Our stock, quality, price, know-how and fishing experience is unsurpassed Our stock, quality, price, know-how and fishing experience Visitors to St Vincent are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors BAR: BASIL’S Air conditioned, and Bar. blestone building where you may find Basil’s Restaurant you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals, some of the best on in Villa: BASIL’S AT way for an exciting new business next fall. tinues until all stock is gone to make 784-456-2602 Island. Call space across from Young this Watch Visitors to Mustique are invited to: to Mustique are Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S World’s Ten Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek magazine and today lives up to that tradi- Ten World’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more renovated the new face of Basil’s tion. Recently lunches and breakfasts. Terrific offering the freshest seafood, steaks and pastas for dinner. catch up on the web. Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and January 24- February Basil’s Bar is home and originator of the Mustique Blues Festival 7 2007. Breakfast service begins at 8:00 at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime and BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68. night Jump up and Wednesday BOUTIQUE BASIL’S women, men and children, For island evening and playful day wear. Elegant island joy. home. Basil’s Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. to take plus lots of T-shirts STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheeses from Europe, with fine French Great General Store - stocked 784-488-8407 Call foods in Paradise. sauces and gourmet jams. Imported cigars. Fine FOREVER: ACROSS has and India - contemporary pieces and fabulous lighting. Across Forever a magnificent collection of furniture and home accessories from Asia. Shipping is easily and

even easier to enjoy your music, whether you are enjoy your music, whether even easier to in Tibet. the West Indies or trekking windsurfing in an armband to their Aquapac® The addition of MP3Player Case makes it perfect for rigorous enjoy the user’s hands free to activities, keeping dust- hundred-percent waterproof, the sport. One to and guaranteed submersible and sand-proof case the Aquapac MP3 Player 15 feet (5 metres), enthusiasts and sailors. is ideal for watersport headphones Aquapac’s 100-percent waterproof to their MP3 player are an ideal accompaniment both below and case, giving great sound quality them protected above water, while keeping to 30 feet (10 against water damage. Tested guaranteed sub- metres), the headphones are for use at mersible, but are not recommended (3 metres) where depths greater than 10 feet hearing damage. increased pressure may cause PRODUCT POSTINGS PRODUCT Fuel Vent Cap for Added Safety Shrink-wrapping is an increasingly popular option for long-term storage of small boats, but when volatile fuel vapors collect under a shrink-wrapped boat, the stage is set for a potential disaster. After filling the tank and adding fuel stabilizer, it’s essential to close the tank and properly cover the fuel vent to prevent fumes from escap- ing. This is not a job for duct tape! Dr. Shrink has the ideal product in the form of an inexpensive polyethylene fuel vent cap. The flexible cap fits snugly over all fuel vents and doesn’t protrude; the sturdy plastic is recyclable. Dr. Shrink serves the global market as a single-source supplier of shrink-wrap and all installation accessories. For more information visit www.dr-shrink.com. Rule’s New High-Speed Inflator/Deflator Rule’s new super-fast air pump cuts inflation time for a typical four-man dinghy to less than two minutes — far quicker than using a foot pump. The unit is supplied with a whole range of adjustable nozzles to fit plastic, rubber and sprung valves, on all major brands from Avon to Zodiac. The pump can also be used for other types of inflatable products, such as RIBs, mark- er buoys, even PVC airbeds. In deflator mode, it enables every last ounce of air to be removed, making it much easier to re-pack and stow the inflatable after use. The unit also has a built in temperature-sensitive valve that prevents over-inflation and also protects the pump from overheating. Lightweight and compact, yet with a rugged construction, the new Rule Inflator/Deflator is simple to use and is pow- ered from a standard 12-volt boat or car battery, drawing a maximum of 28 amps and producing an airflow of 550 litres per minute. For more information visit www.jabsconews.com. Electric Head Purifies Waste cost-effective way to safe- The new ElectroScan from Raritan offers an efficient and is a US Coast Guard-certified ly dispose of septic waste while underway. ElectroScan and commercial vessels up Type 1 Marine Sanitation Device (MSD) for recreational to 19.7m. in its 3.8L treatment Using saltwater, ElectroScan monitors and treats wastewater in fresh or brackish tank. (An optional salt-feed system is available when cruising toilets, it is available in water.) Compatible with both manual and electric marine 12-, 24- and 32-volt DC configurations. into direct contact with a The treatment tank’s twin chamber design forces waste convert saltwater to series of specially coated electrodes that temporarily new flush, the waste is hypochlorous acid, a powerful bactericide. With each continues. In addition to forced through to the second chamber, where treatment chemicals, a naturally-pro- eliminating the need for large holding tanks and harmful the discharge enters the duced disinfectant effectively treats the waste. When destroyed. marine environment, virtually all pathogens have been conditions exist to treat ElectroScan monitors itself continuously to ensure proper controller with an LCD display bacteria, viruses and similar pathogens. Raritan’s new system's activity, including shows and records the operation of each cycle for the the electrodes to reduce specific data up to 3,270 cycles. ElectroScan controls protection eliminates power consumption by up to 36 percent. Solid-state overload fuses and relays and protects against damage from reverse polarity. For more information visit www.raritaneng.com. Good News for Divers and Snorkellers difficulty with Just about everyone who dives or snorkels must have experienced straps. They’re either too and discomfort from common diving/swimming mask or allow water leakage… loose, too tight, difficult to adjust, they pull out your hair, convenient padded the problems go on and on. Mask Saver is an easily adjustable, any mask. No more need to strap system that replaces the conventional straps on Mask Saver lets you easily put the mask on the forehead due to problematic straps; safely and comfortably tighten your mask strap, or loosen it so you can drop it adjustment. A deluxe ver- around your neck without upsetting your mask’s personal your mask to prevent lenses sion is also available that turns into a floating pouch for from scratching. Mask Saver can be purchased on-line at www.oceangoods.com or at selected dive shops. Low-Profile Fresh Air Vents an easy and economical way to capture refreshing Deck-mounted ventilators are its versatile C-7 and C-8 clam shell vents to provide breezes. Beckson Marine offers areas in a low-profile design. Both models can be plenty of airflow to below-deck forward, aft or sideways for maximum performance. directionally mounted facing an included deck-mounted adapter. These clam shells The covers snap on and off for bilge blowers or other purposes by mounting can also act as exhaust ventilators long-lasting, the injection them to vent air away from specific spots. Durable and discoloration. The ventilators molded plastic cap resists UV damage, cracking and acrylic paint for a custom are available in black or white or can be painted with color match. For more information visit www.beckson.com. For more information on Aquapac cases, For more information on Aquapac cases are available at Budget Marine; visit www.aquapac.net. Aquapac on page 2. for more information see ad Aquapac Accessories for Music Lovers Accessories Aquapac made it and now Aquapac has when you lead it to music, Life is always better MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Call RonCooper(727)367-5004•www.coopermarine.com Fair tides! after itsrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. setting tojustafteritsnadir,thetiderunseastward;andfromnadirsoon reaches itszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjustafterthemoon’s the eastsoonaftermoonrise,continuestorununtilaboutanhourmoon passage (orzenith)ofthemoonforthisandnextmonth,willhelpyoucalculatetides. Street’s GuidesandcompilerofImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthetimemeridian passage fasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet,authorof 01542 1442 (new) 1339 20 1234 19 1132 18 1034 17 0940 16 0849 15 0800 14 0712 13 0623 12 0532 11 0439 10 0345 9 0250 8 0157 7 0105 (full) 6 0017 5 0000 4 2333 3 2 1 TIME DATE May 2007 For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolairecharts. Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrunning Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmakeyour MERIDIAN PASSAGE • 63x24PowerCatUSCGStabilitytestfor149PAX • FastdeliveryTwinDiesel-BasePrice$299,000

VIAL O MEIT DELIVERY IMMEDIATE FOR AVAILABLE All newOffshore53’catamaranTwindiesel, OF THEMOON 49 passengers,Baseprice$199,000 • Availableassingleordoubledeck CATAMARANS MAY &JUNE 0556 0508 0420 8 0329 7 0235 6 0140 (full) 5 0045 4 0000 3 2 1 TIME DATE 2352 June 2007 2301 2214 31 2130 30 2049 29 2009 28 1930 27 1851 26 1809 25 1725 24 1636 23 22 21 NEW SEATING FOR90PASSENGERS NEW 63’SAILCAT 00000 2333 2238 30 2145 29 2055 28 2009 27 1926 26 1846 25 1806 24 1727 23 1646 22 1602 21 1515 20 1423 19 1325 (new) 18 1223 17 1119 16 1016 15 0916 14 0822 13 0731 12 0643 11 10 9 Plans callfordevelopmentofamarinaorboatbasinintheCarrsBayarea already largeexclusionzone. of theMontserratVolcanoObservatory,astatutoryauthoritythathasincreasedan clastic mudflowsfromthevolcano.Othershavebeendictatedbyscientificconcerns several timesovertheyears.Someofthesemoveswerebecauseencroachingpyro- spoke withduringarecentvisithavealreadymovedtheirhomesandbusinesses inal area,continuestofaceashrinkingzoneforhabitation.ManyoftheislandersI beautiful 40-square-mileisland,nowonlyhabitableonroughlyone-thirdofitsorig- the SoufrièreHillsVolcanocontinuestorumbleandbelchsmokeash.This 491 2230/[email protected]. clearance canbearrangedbyphonethroughtheMontserratTouristBoardat(664) area, butworkdoesnotappeartohavestarted. quate alternatehousing.RumorsofBritain“abandoning”theislandarealsorife. ernment. Manyaredisgruntledbytheapparentlackofeffectiveefforttoprovideade- Those remainingresidentsarenowlookingforpositiveactionfromtheBritishgov- than 5,000todayasmanypeoplemovedawayfromthisBritishoverseasterritory. residents havebeenrelocated,butmanyothersstillnotfoundsuitablehousing. mud andashovermuchofthecity,creatingamodern-dayPompeii.Sincethensome Plymouth wasevacuatedin1995whenmajorvolcanicactionsentpyroclasticflowsof island’s onlyresorthotel,havebeencutofffrompublicuse.Thecapitalcityof Montserrat: A BeautifulIsland It’s painfullyobviousthatthepeopleofMontserratbattleuncertaintydailywhile Yachts arrivingattheislandmustanchorinLittleBayorCarrsBay.Customs There iswordofaplannedboatbasindevelopmentintheCarrsBay/LittleBay Since the1995eruption,island’spopulationdroppedfrom12,000tofewer In thiszone,manyhomes,villasandbusinesses,includingtheVuePointHotel, Volcano Updates Montserrat in Limbo

by RossMavis MONTSERRAT VOLCANO OBSERVATORY OBSERVATORY VOLCANO MONTSERRAT visit www.mvo.ms. maps andscientific reports, canic activity,maritime risk in theworld. closely monitoredvolcanoes cano, nowoneofthemost on theSoufriereHillsvol- ments andregularlyreports takes detailedmeasure- Government ofMontserrat, Survey undercontracttothe the BritishGeological Observatory, operatedby the riskareasonmap. visit Montserrat,avoiding currently safeforyachtsto volcano onJanuary8,itis slopes oftheSoufriereHills order wasissuedforthe For regularupdateson vol- The MontserratVolcano Although anevacuation MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

ROTTEVEEL busy itinerary. Ladyhawke’s Porlamar offers so much that we can easily see why everyone likes to stay as long Porlamar offers so much that we can easily see why everyone Porlamar will be a regular stop on The morning VHF Cruisers’ Net was always entertaining and a great place to get all entertaining and a great Cruisers’ Net was always The morning VHF cruising community is visible in the numerous The presence of a worldwide close to a hundred in the anchorage, their crews getting a taste of the fine shops and close to a hundred in the anchorage, their crews getting In a single day, you can metropolitan atmosphere that only Margarita can offer. with a person from a far-away “shop till you drop” and have cruising conversations be filled with equal numbers country. The chairs at any one of the cruiser bars can slipped into a haze of Happy of those who are “living the dream” and those who have Hours. here for a month or so, we as possible. Once we realized that we were going to be check out, but you can never kept singing the “Hotel California” theme: “You can location in your travel plans. leave.” You need to consider including this wonderful fund” cash and your sense of You will not be disappointed. Bring along your “tip humour, as Porlamar will captivate you. the info that you needed to get around in Porlamar. It offers one of the finest weath- Porlamar. It offers one of needed to get around in the info that you served up fresh daily by CJ, the cruisers’ very own “guy er reports in the Caribbean, in the bay so that this veteran cruiser can stay in the sky”. CJ’s condo overlooks on Sunday? You bet! The downside of the net would show touch with us all. Dominos while as the truly colourful characters proceeded to show its ugly head every once in a worst sides in public, often within the same broadcast. their best sides and their was a true adventure to start anyone’s day. The attempts Listening and participating boat and the fuel boat were a daily ritual, and so were by others to contact the water all, the frustration of the newly arriving vessels. After the chuckles as the radio oozed earned the right to smile, hadn’t we? now as Porlamar veterans we’d yachts in Porlamar. At any one time there are usually national flags flown by the There is treasure at the end of this rainbow — the unexpected pleasure of Porlamar There is treasure at the end of this rainbow — the unexpected . had Ladyhawke Ladyhawke that her plans were about SS SS N N N N O O Ladyhawke O O II II T T T T A A A A N N N N by Cruisin’ Canucks by Cruisin’ II II

T T T T SS SS

E E E E D D

D D The Unexpected Pleasures of P of Pleasures Unexpected The orlamar In the morning we made our way to the dock of Marina Juan. On our arrival, the first In the morning we made our Spanish, German or other European languages, you If you speak English, French, repairs on several systems. So off we went to start getting arrangements made for have been purposely put on Everything that we had missed in Cumaná seemed to glee that all of the new- We noticed that the veteran cruisers didn’t have the same as long as your vessel stays In the anchorage in Porlamar, you also get wi-fi service, Sailing destinations’ reputations precede them, and Porlamar was no different. them, and Porlamar was reputations precede Sailing destinations’ was telling However, our speed over ground of Porlamar’s unexpectedly pleasant features greeted us with open arms. Juan reminds of Porlamar’s unexpectedly pleasant our guide and the fellow who walks on water. He was you of a mixture of a great safari in and you could not find a more colourful character saviour in many instances use dock, use Juan’s. If you need to use the radio, Venezuela. If you need a dinghy are there. If you need a bus to go shopping, Juan pro- Juan’s. If you need a taxi, they you is provided by myriad staff who not only welcome vides it. Security for your dinghy your garbage or parcels for you. (The can for tips is halfway as you tie up, but also carry as full as it should have been.) Could this all be true? down the dock and was never with you quite fluent- will have someone at Juan’s who will be able to communicate supplied with essentials such ly. Veronica minds the store and keeps all the cruisers that invites hugs from as beer, eggs and ice with an infectious smile and manner is an oasis in the desert sea! everyone. Oh, yes — morning coffee is FREE! This place Why didn’t we plan to stop here in the first place? center. Our low expectations We hopped on the free bus and headed to the shopping that seemed like it had been were delightfully shattered when we walked into a mall Canada and dropped off on picked up from any metropolitan city in the USA or as the price-checker com- Margarita. Barb’s mood certainly picked up a few notches no way it could be that cheap” puter was repeatedly checked for accuracy. “There is was the saying of the day. olives just barely made it out the shelves that we stumbled upon first. Those black I promptly stuffed Barb’s of the supermarket prior to being devoured by yours truly. and discarded the evidence of almond chocolate bar wrapper in the empty olive can our indulgence into the trash bin. lack of enthusiasm. Perhaps bies to Margarita had, but we were undaunted by their was free — until it came time the problem was the temptation to think that all of this they would have preferred for tipping almost everyone you met. Some cruisers said services were free. The prob- to have a set rate, as opposed to the illusion that many in the Venezuelan currency: lem, I think, is exacerbated by the number of zeros sheepishly realize that it is “2,000 Bolivars tip? Wow, that’s outrageous!” Until you on the rate of exchange between 50 cents and one dollar US currency, depending service anywhere in the you use. I don’t think you could get that style of friendly world for a two-dollar tip. it expensive, so all was good. reasonably still. This service was not free, but nor was good coverage, as well as do You have to pick your spot in the anchorage to ensure anchorage. whatever possible to lessen the “Roll-a-mar effect” in this and Porlamar was just going to be a rest stop… or so we thought. and Porlamar was just going Our slog from Cumaná was to be straight to Grenada and no looking back — bye- to Grenada and no looking Cumaná was to be straight Our slog from bye, Venezuela! to be changed. Astute navigators will undoubtedly be amused at our lackadaisical to be changed. Astute navigators tell between Margarita Island and the mainland. I can attitude towards the current we arrival in the dead of night in Porlamar, that you that after our unceremonious the and current tables for the area, whether they are in now always check the tide The combined issues of mechanical failure, high Caribbean or the Pacific Northwest. tight deadlines (which we all know we aren’t supposed stress factors and amazingly a total meltdown among the crew aboard to have cruising) had caused a lot to do with it. less of a problem than most, but I think tonnage had MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 panionway ladder? for thedaywas“Whisky”,drug-sniffingLabrador—howdidshegetbackupcom- Cuba” tape—topreventusgivingthemCubanwannabeemigrants?Ourfinalvisitor departed, theysealedourhand-heldGPSsandflaresinacarrierbagwith“Aduana- visited previously,andwereespeciallyinterestedinourVenezuelanvisas.Beforethey They testedourSpanishtoitsmeagrelimits,butallwerekeenknowwherewehad vet wasthetrioofaCustomsofficer,anImmigrationofficerandHarbourMaster. have apetonboard;thevetwastheretoinspectourdriedsausages.Closebehind have beentelepathic,asshedidn’taskasinglequestion….Nextwasthevet—wedon’t up wasadoctor,whofor£17issuedstatementthatwewerenotcontagious.Shemust As oneCustomsagenttoldus,“WelearntourbureaucracyfromtheRussians…”.First and youdon’thavearaincoat,thenstrippingdowntoyourtrunksisn’tsuchbadidea! dock-master, George,cladonlyinhisswimmingtrunks.Iguessthatifitisraininghard Cuba. Wearrivedinthemidstofatorrentialdownpourandweremetbysmiling Caribbean nexttimerounditwillbepoliticallystableenoughtovisit. to seeitsspectacularmountainranges—maybebythetimewereturn record of158milesin24hours.Wedidn’tstoponHaiti,butwedidsailcloseenough ly fivedays,mostlytearingalongunderreefedsailsandrecordingourpersonal since arrivinginSt.Luciaalmostayearbefore.Wecoveredthe644milesexact- ing themoreconventionalroutetoPanamaviaColombia. farewells andtheoddsharedbottleofwinewithourcruisingfriendswhoweretak- Spaanse Water.TheextradaysspentinCuraçaoallowedplentyoftimeforfinal a weekofstrongtradewinds,whichconfinedusandallourfellowcruisersto Curaçao. MotherNaturealsodidn’tlikemyplan,andproduced caused bytheneedtochangeengineheadgasketin up; however,thatplanlayintattersafterdelays cruise alongthesouthcoastbeforemeeting Cuba inlateNovember,allowingaleisurely warned against.Weplannedtoarrivein something wecruisersarealways were committedtoatimeandplace— Cienfuegos onCuba’ssouthcoast,we intervening 50years. keen toseehowithadchangedinthe visited Cubabeforetherevolutionandwas retains itsuniquecharacter.Myfatherhad us anaddedincentivetocruiseCubawhileitstill Over thenext24hoursweexperiencedcheck-inprocessforwhichCubaisfamous. Our arrivalinthemarinaatSantiagodeCubawasassurrealonemightexpectof Arrival atSantiagodeCuba Eventually, on4thDecember2006,weheadednorthwardsourlongesttrip Once myparentshadbookedtravelto H www.errolflynnmarina.com e-mail: info@errolflyn Contact John Louis•876-715-6044 •876-873-4412 Caribbean, servicingyachts upto95'inlength. The only100-tontravel liftinthispartofthe ited islands—andCastro’sfailinghealthgave Caribbean, wewerekeentoseesomeofthelessvis- aving followedthestandard“MilkRun”fromEuropeto D D E E S S T T I I N N mrn.o VHF • nmarina.com A A T T I I C O O N N S S Channel16 —Continued onnextpage —Continued by RuthRoss-Thomson ruising uban Errol Flynn &BoatyardErrol Marina THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENTON Duty Free Zone inMarina Engine andPart Specialists 24 HourFuel Paint Sheds 100 Ton Travel-lift Full ServiceMarina

Out ofthe Water Storage Upto95Feet everywhere. HeremusiciansplayoutsidethemuseumatSantiago No Spanish?problem.Musicistheuniversallanguage,andinCubait’s OT NOI,JAMAICAPORT ANTONIO, Introducing the NEW etuat Beach Bar&Grille Restaurant, 24 HourSecurityGatedMarina Open Air Market 1Minuteby Foot Depth Upto25Feet atFace Dock Downtown Nightlife Protected Harbor

Navigating thegood life MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 —Continued on next page Santiago to Cienfuegos of days it was time to start However, a schedule is a schedule, and after a couple permiso”, due to packages At Cabo Cruz, we discovered that docking there was “no Jardines de la Reina — the The next stop along the coast is the Archipielago de los The beautifully restored yacht club at Cienfuegos is home of a great, The beautifully restored yacht cheap restaurant heading west towards Cienfuegos. The southern coast of Cuba between Santiago and heading west towards Cienfuegos. The southern coast a few days’ sailing — from the Cabo Cruz provides the most spectacular backdrop for three miles inland) the coast rugged Sierra Maestra (peaking at 1,972 metres about miles of uplifted marine gradually sinks down as you sail westwards, to uninterrupted to capture on camera. terraces. The scene is completely awe-inspiring and impossible Jamaica, just 80 miles away. of drugs being landed along this remote coast from on the reef. Sadly, the coral However, we were permitted to anchor off and snorkel Caribbean”, has suffered the in Cuba, described in our guide as “the finest in the littered with dead coral. same fate as further south, with many of the reefs now islets surrounded by Gardens of the Queen. This is about 120 miles of mangrove Islas Aves in Venezuela. shallow water and coral heads, a massive version of the ARBOUR 284 495-5685 H Fax: 284 495-5706 ACHT Y VHF Ch: 16 Full Service Marina Facility Web: www.vgmarina.biz (managed by Sun Resorts International) LEAVE YOUR BOAT ORDA for the upcoming hurricane season. G located within convenient walking distance. IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER 284 495-5318 Tel: 284 495-5500 laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in IRGIN fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, V a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space After a long afternoon of watching forms being filled in, we were happy in, we were forms being filled of watching long afternoon After a morning with a visit from the process continued the next The check-in in Santiago shortly after us. a Portuguese yacht arrived (As an aside, Cuba a scaled down check-in process is Unlike many countries, in learn a lot from their friends in Cuban marinas, sadly, could US dollars for local pesos. Our first stop in Santiago was to exchange some of our de Cuba to soak up our With pockets full of pesos, we hit the centre of Santiago to see George appearing down the dock with a tray of ice-cold Cuba a tray of ice-cold dock with down the George appearing to see less and the slightly Club rum, famous Havana made from the Libres, and arrive in a marina did you last of cola. When local brand famous sundowner? complimentary with a get welcomed a slightly mouldy onion and who confiscated a agriculture inspector see the weevil infestation lurk- Thank goodness he didn’t clove of garlic. “pest officer” who told us about muesli. Next was the ing in our Curaçao flies (he wasn’t exaggerating), with large numbers of Cuba’s problem with peach-scented fly spray. to fumigate the boat and then proceeded issued and we were finally our Cuban visas had been By mid-morning free to leave the marina. cleared in and boat were subjected to a full what triggered it, but they We don’t know in jumpsuits. Water tanks were opened, search by a half dozen guys and GPS were noted, and every single lock- waypoints from their laptop er was inspected.) a harbour, no matter how small the har- repeated every time you enter the Guardia (police) will commandeer bour. In the very small harbours, (or woman) to row them out to your a local rowing boat and a fisherman some cruisers who have found the constant yacht. We have heard from but we found all the visiting officials check-in process to be oppressive, interested in what we were doing. While con- to be friendly, smiling and by our poor Spanish, we always managed to versations were hampered the dictionary or our inflatable globe. communicate, even if we needed resorted to drawing pictures. Some Customs We have even on occasion the Windwards and Leewards could learn a and Immigration officers in about customer care. lot from their Cuban colleagues natural harbours, anchoring is “no permiso”, forcing Venezuela. In several of Cuba’s is Cuban marina docks are solid, but the concrete cruisers to use the local marinas. leaving nasty metal spikes reaching out to scrape your crumbling along the edges, outlets on the docks, but the sockets are likely shiny topsides. There are electrical there may not be any water, to be incorrectly wired. There are plenty of showers, but be no toilet seats, paper or any lights or a roof. There are toilets, but there may with cans of local coke and water. The chandlery is well stocked, but it is stocked Havana Club rum…. Maybe that’s not really a problem! in Cuba. These days, A few years ago, the dollar was the standard tourist currency exchanged our dollars at a thanks to George W, dollars are officially unwanted. We deducted. Ouch! If head- pitiful exchange rate, and then got ten percent commission ing here, bring Euros or ££ for much better rates. From the four elderly gen- first experience of Cuban life. We weren’t disappointed. outside the museum, to the tlemen playing “Buenavista Social Club” favourites Chevy, we were entranced. young guys proudly displaying their bright yellow 1952 about, and we even felt com- There were none of the hustlers we had been warned fortable wandering around the town after dark. —Continued page from previous APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 The harbouratSantiagodeCubaislocationofoneFidel’sholidayhomes we took231/2hourstocovertherequired40miles. from thenorthcausedustohavebeatentirewayCasildainstrongwinds; derfully conservedoldcolonialtown.Ahh,thoseplans….Anapproachingcoldfront six-mile-long whitesandbeachandcatchingahorsebuggyuptoTrinidad,won- would beabletospendChristmassnorkellingoffthenearbyreefs,walkingalong ples, orangesandguavasweredelicious. etables seemtobetheonlyvegetablesavailable,butpapayas,bananas,pineap- find amarket,youcanstockup.Peppers,cucumbers,andmuddy-brownrootveg- any producetheygrowinexcessoftheirrequiredgovernmentquotas,soifyoucan to stockupwellbeforeleavingCuraçao.Recently,farmershavebeenallowedsell means thatthese“basic”productsarenotstockedinthestores—henceneed such asbread,rice,pasta,sugar,beansandtoiletpaperfromthegovernment.This like noothershoppingexperience.AllCubansreceiveaweeklyallowanceofstaples to lifeonboard,andalsosearchoutsomefreshprovisions.ShoppinginCubais boat tobringmeatrayoftwodozenfresheggs.OnlyinCuba! been abletobuyanyinCubasofar—theskipperpromptlyrowedbackhis What afabulousbreakfast.Iexplainedhowhappywastohaveeggsashadnot ing boatwhobroughtusaplateofboiledeggs,freshlyfriedfishfilletsandcrackers. lobsters thenightbefore,wehadanearlymorningvisitfromskipperofonefish- cold beersforvisitors,soeveryonewashappy. lobsters (onceavegetarian,alwaysunabletoboilanimalsalive),wekeptsupplyof a lobsterforsupper,theyhadseveraltospare.Ascompensationnottrading mostly justseemedtowantachataddbitofvarietytheirday.Ifwedid a metreofwaterbelowthekeel.That’sanotherfewgreyhairsaddedtomycollection. final approachintotheanchorageconsistingofacouplemiles’motoringwithlessthan water. Webrokethetripupwithacoupleofovernightstops,bothwhichrequired labyrinthine innerchannelsandinsteadscooteduptheoutsideinreassuringlydeep frompreviouspage —Continued We hadplannedanice,gentleovernightsailbackeasttoCasilda,fromwherewe We spentacoupleofdaysinCienfuegostoallowournewcrewgetaccustomed Cienfuegos toCasilda Here’s ourprimeexampleofthewonderfulCubanpeoplewemet.Havingdeclined Despite theremotenessofouranchorages,wereceivedvisitsfromfishermenwho With justfivedaysleftbeforeweweredueinCienfuegos,decidedtoforegothe fishermen landinCasilda,sixmilesaway. ures largeonthemenuinTrinidad;Iguesstheyare“spare”lobstersthat ing asplendidlunchseatedinthebasiccourtyardofsomeone’shome.Lobsterfig- house. Wewere“guided”tothepaladarebyafriendlylocalladyandendedupenjoy- restaurants whereyouareservedhome-cookedlocalfoodbyafamilyintheirown plantation ownedbyaGermanfamilywasbulldozed.Progress? for. Healsotoldushow,followingthe“TriumphofRevolution”,anentirecitrus the hill),explainedhowitnowcostsmoretoproducecanesugarthancanbesold our unofficialguide(actuallythesecurityguardfromcommunicationsstationatop down intoavalleytothenorth,oncehomeprosperoussugarplantations.Carlos, point fromwherewecouldlookoutoverourcruisinggroundstothesouth,andalso from the19thcentury.Armedwith“LonelyPlanet”guidebook,wehikeduptoa which forcecarstodriveforamileonthewrongsideofroad. style cyclistsridingfourabreast,cowboysherdingcattle,andstretchesofpotholes never havecopedwiththeoxcarts,horse-drawnbuggies,goats,Tour-de-France- for thetaxi.Theremaynothavebeenmanyothercarsonroads,butIwould cars around,sowethoughtthedrivewouldn’tbedifficult.Thankgoodnesswent had brieflytoyedwiththeideaofrentingahirecar.Afterall,thereareonlyfew east. ThisistheaspectofcruisinglifethatIreallywantedtosharewithmyparents. watched forthegreenflashassunsettledinwestandfullmoonrose but theyarefascinatingtowatch. a four-kiloedibletreerat—andyoumaynothaveeveryone’sidealrangeofpets, tudes ofhermitcrabsandthedozensprehistoriciguanas.Addtothis islands wasthewildlife;beachesarecriss-crossedwithtrailsfrommulti- were constructedtoservetheday-trippersarrivingfromCasilda.Thehighlightof dominated bymangroves,withafewpalmtreesplantednearthebeachbarsthat Gardens oftheQueen—CayoBlancoandZazadeFuera.Bothislandsare hoped tointroducemyparentsthejoysofCaribbeancruising. instantly. Thenewcrewwithstoodalltheserigours,butitsurewasn’tthewayI’d Fortress anchorinfrontoftheDelta,droppedwholelotoverside,anditset it. Itseemedlikeagoodtimetogiveitgo.Wesecuredourlightweightaluminium anywhere else.Wehadreadaboutusingtwoanchorsinseries,butnevertried soft, siltymud.Afterfiveattempts,itwaspitchblack,andtherenooptiontogo cast wind,butforonceourtrusty23-kiloDeltaanchorjustrefusedtoholdinthe small mangroveisletalittlewaytothenorthpromisedsomeshelterfromfore- our wayacross,wedoubledbackinhopeoffindinganotheralternateanchorage.A were missing.Havinggoneagroundonceinthefast-failinglight,aswetriedtoease we discoveredthatthecriticalbuoysmarkinganarrowchannelthroughsandbank reef andsandbank-infestedmaze.Withonlyamiletogoouralternateanchorage, metre draught.Sowheretogowithjustoveranhourofdaylight? Casilda, buttheentranceisonly1.8metresdeep—notquiteenoughforourtwo- informed usitwascurrently“nopermiso”toanchoratCasilda.Thereisamarina minutes later,wewereunderwayagainfollowingavisitfromanofficialwho Trinidad gaveusourfirstopportunitytotryouta The centreofTrinidadisfrozenintimewithabeautifulcollectionopulentbuildings We decidedonanearlyreturntoCienfuegosinordervisitTrinidadbyroad. Town Time Our lastnightinthecayswaswonderful.Wesatcockpitwithoursundownersand Once theweatherperkedup,weheadeddowntoislandsatnorthernendof After aquickreviewofourguidesandelectronicchartsweheadedoutintocoral Still, wedroppedanchorat4:00 PM , pouredtheteaandheavedasighofrelief.Ten paladare —Continued onnextpage —Continued . Theseareunofficial jutia — MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 , by Simon Charles, Cruising Guide Publications, 1997 , by Nigel Calder, Imray, Laurie, Norie & Wilson, 1999 , by Nigel Calder, Imray, Laurie, , Brendan Sainsbury, 2006 £1 = CUC1.70 Euro 1 = CUC1.17 US$1 = CUC0.93 Customs – CUC20 Doctor – CUC30 per crew member Visa (first month) – CUC15 Cruising Permit – CUC15 Entry tax – CUC10 Departure tax – CUC10 month) – CUC25 per crew member Visa extension (for one additional visit: CUC165 (£97/Euros 141/US$177) Our total for a two-month 0.37/US$0.46 per foot) 0.43 CUC per foot (£0.25/Euros showers Included drinking water, electricity, Money use Broadly speaking, Cubans a dual monetary system. Cuba operates 2006): EXCHANGE RATES (in December CLEARANCE CHARGES MARINA FEES Books Cuba – A Cruising Guide book, with detailed pilotage information, but The “must have” Cuba pilot The Cruising Guide to Cuba details about what Complementary to the Nigel Calder guide. It has more Cuba Lonely Planet to your destination. Indispensable guide to what to see/do/eat once you get Charts series of seven excel- The Cuban hydrographic department has produced a few adjectives. PRACTICALITIES Pesos Nationales while tourists use Pesos Convertibles (CUCs). Prices in pro- Convertibles (CUCs). Prices while tourists use Pesos Pesos Nationales change pay in CUCs and receive your are in Nationales; you can duce markets 23 Pesos our visit was approximately The exchange rate during in Nationales. 1 CUC. Nationales to awaits you ashore, but less detail on the tricky pilotage. and culture. Also loads of background information about the history were given photocopies, lent chart books that cover the entire coastline. We Cuba and Habana. but we saw the originals on sale in both Santiago de www.curacaomarine.com - Long-term storage. and many other services. , sim- AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting We are located in the safe harbor of Willemstad. Safe dry storage with 24 hours security we visited: a low island covered with

still afloat. This was the first time we had still afloat. This was the first cayos Do It

casa particulare was complete, and Angus was complete, Do It Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam. Curaçao Marine Curaçao New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. Email: [email protected] Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941 From there, we headed down to Grand Cayman, a sharp re-introduction to the capi- From there, we headed down to Grand Cayman, a sharp tiny numbers of cruising yachts So what has been the biggest surprise in Cuba? The Our family time together on time together Our family Cayo Largo is a larger version of the earlier Habana (yep, it is spelt with a “b” over here) certainly met our expectations. On Day a “b” over here) certainly met our expectations. On Habana (yep, it is spelt with day, — hard. To prepare ourselves for an arduous On Day Two we hit the museums Back Aboard to find We returned to Cienfuegos relieved talist world! other cruising yachts. I’m not sure encountered. In six weeks, we only encountered eight return one day. why there are so few other yachts there, but we shall certainly mangroves and scrub. But in place of the iguanas and tree rats, there are thousands of mangroves and scrub. But in place of the iguanas and This is not the Cuba we knew from tourists ensconced in their all-inclusive holiday resorts. places an increased dependence the earlier part of our visit, and as the Cuban economy tourism doesn’t spread too far. upon tourism, we can only hope that this type of resort — Continued from previous page previous from — Continued and I decided to have a holiday and head up to Habana for a head up to a holiday and to have and I decided in a a room of days. We booked couple left her for more than a night since we left the UK. It was time to escape from life in the left her for more than a night since we left the UK. It in Cayo Largo. Once again, marina and head down to the white-sand anchorages promised by our guidebook. Rather we have found it “no permiso” to anchor in places recommended that we anchor within sight than anchor off a nearby beach, the local authorities insisted of their marina (or better still, tied to their dock). One, we followed the “Lonely Planet” walking tours around the partially restored old Planet” walking tours around the partially restored One, we followed the “Lonely camera architecture and cursing the fact that our digital town, enjoying the spectacular at There was no hassle from anyone, and we felt completely had died a few days before. our “casa” late at night. ease even when returning to the Museum, which served drinking chocolate to wash down we started at the Chocolate palace Next up was the City Museum, housed in a baroque chocolates handmade on site. in the courtyard. A short stroll across town brought complete with a strutting peacock Revolution. This former presidential palace with decorative us to the Museum of the it is the nation’s history as told by Fidel’s fans. (I’m not sure touches by Tiffany displays clothes worn by various “Heroes of the Revolution” necessary to display the blood-soaked to coffee in the art deco Bacardi Tower, and we were ready as they died.) A swift reviving is a smaller-scale version of the White House in Washington, tackle the Capitolio, which seating mahogany doors and mahogany table capable of DC. Having seen the massive surprised that there’s not much local mahogany left! 24 comfortably, we weren’t ilar to a “bed & breakfast”. For a very reasonable price, we very reasonable For a a “bed & breakfast”. ilar to in a slightly home — colonial terraced in an old had a room looked typically area. At street level, the place dodgy-looking in Cuba paint is a feature everywhere run down; peeling However, once past restored tourist centres. other than the stairs to the first doors and up the the three-metre-high us. The place was different world awaited floor, a whole which was tidy, not a speck of dust anywhere, immaculately surface was fes- given that every inch of flat quite amazing babies, ornate gilt- glass animals, porcelain tooned with with gaudy plas- massive vases overflowing framed mirrors, dozens of rows of complete tea sets, and tic flowers, several with to turn around in case I caused mass devastation delicate glasses. I hardly dared my backpack. MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 find in1956ontheTwoSistersCaywhenagroupofNorthAmericansspentfour difficult toknowhowmuchhasalreadybeenfound.Itissaidthattherewasamajor buried theirretirementfunds. ing Portobelloladenwithlootedgold.Itisalsowheremanyarerumouredtohave Portobello andOldPanama,hungout,waitingtoambushtheSpanishgalleonsleav- the east,setintocoastalongsideBahiadeAlmirante. miles longtojustafewhundredfeet.Mostofthemarescantilypopulated,ifatall. 300 islandsscatteredlikepetalsacrossBahiadeAlmirante,varyinginsizefrom40 magic oftheislands.Youhirecyclesorboatshere,notcars.Therearemorethan Then acoupleofbouncesontherunwayandIwasinPanama. very big,andnonelookinglikethemagicalislandsIhadreadaboutonInternet. the oceangraduallyemergedbelowus,noneofthem stomach; Icouldn’tseeanyofthoselittlebags. were airborne.Ihopedthateveryonehadastrong while Ifumbledfranticallywiththeseatbelt.Thenwe above theroaraswegatheredspeeddownrunway was theentirepreamble,andIcouldonlyjusthearit safety instructionsinthepocketfrontofyou.”That ordered. “It’sgoingtoberoughupthere.Thereare motorcycle atastoplight;thewholeplaneshook. ed revvingtheengines.AndImeanrevving,likea had timetocollapseintomyseatbeforethepilotstart- sion bridge,loadedwithmylaptopandbags,just I totteredupaladderreminiscentofjunglesuspen- qualified moreasamosquito.InSanJosé,CostaRica, on acoupleofplanes,arrivinginBocasonethat thought, “Thismightbe Agency’s highestratingfortouristsafety.“Wow!”I was recentlyawardedthePinkertonGlobalIntelligence impressed. It’sbelowthehurricanebeltandPanama western endofPanama’sCaribbeancoast,Iwas to afriendlybarintheevening. in adesertedcove,wandertherainforestandwalk by seaandlandinrelativesafety,whereIcananchor hurricanes norviolentthugs.SomewhereIcanexplore hurricane hole.SomewhereIamstalkedneitherby Bocas DelToro Part 2 Many hotelsandrestaurantsare‘rightonthewater’,too ALMOST PERFECTHURRICANEHOLES Treasure huntersarebynaturesecretive,notwantingtosharetheirprizes,soitis These waterswerewhereHenryMorganandhisbuccaneers,whosackedboth If youwantmoreopen,butstillprotected,waterstheLagunadeChiriquiliesto The nextdaythesuncameout,watersturnedblueandIbegantofeel Believe me,ithasgottobelesstraumaticgetherebyboat. Through murkygreycloudsdarkgreensplodgesin “Fasten yourseatbeltsandkeepthemfastened,”he I neededtocoverthemilesfastsodecidedjump When IresearchedBocasDelToro,locatedonthe As Isaidlastmonth,aminsearchoftheperfect Mind at Ease at Mind Yacht atRest n n n n n [email protected] Telephone: +1954-525-8707 YachtDockwise Transport USA

Competitive Rates Unique Destinations Reliable FrequentSchedules Premier ServiceforAnyYacht Safest WaytoShip View fromCareeningCayofhomesonstilts. : the perfect hurricanehole.” by JuliaBartlett [email protected] Telephone: +33 [0]493 931 856 YachtDockwise Transport France , [email protected] Telephone: +596 596 74 15 07 DYT Representative Martinique precautions, especiallyduringholidayperiods,thesameaseverywhereelse. own andwalkingintownatnight.That’snottosaythatoneshouldn’ttakesensible it is,asPinkerton’ssay,safe.AsawomanIfeelsafecyclinginthecountrysideonmy the buildingsarewooden. built almostahundredyearsbefore.Butthebiggestdangerisfire,becausemostof worth mentioningin1964andanearthquake1991,whichfelledthecathedral (about 9°20’N),itdoeslieintropicalwaters.Therewasatornado1975,storm because ofalackfunding—butnobodyiswillingtodivulgetheirwhereabouts. Divers tellmethattherearestillgalleonsaplentybeneaththesewaters,notsalvaged months therebeforedisappearinginthenightleavingbehindalargeexcavation. surfers, somelitbyflickeringcandles. Pirate”. Atnightthemainstreetislinedwithcraft-ladenstallsrunbylocalsand hang outinyourfavouritebarswithnameslike“Bohmfalks”and“ThePickled sheltered waters,driftingbackintotowntoprovision,catchuponthegossipand must havehadatonetime.Byboatyoucanwanderaroundtheislands,inclear, earning onlyapassingglance.IsupposeithasthesortofatmospherethatKeyWest look likealltheycareaboutisthenextwave. Then therearethesurfers,whocomeinallshapes,sizes,agesandcoloursbutstill like indigenousIndiansandex-patsuburbanAmericanslooklike…you’vegotit! how unorthodox.Theculturesandraceshaven’tmerged.IndigenousIndianslook bare-chested intown. but low-key;theirmaintaskseemstobeaskingthesurfers,mainlymale,notgo Port Everglades Another importantattributeisthat,apartfromtheminorcrimesfoundeverywhere, Although youryachtinsurancecompanywillbehappywiththeBocaslatitude Characters likeMelGibsonandJimmyBuffetcomeheretoplaytheyblendin, The townofBocasisthecapitalprovinceandlively,colourfulsome- The communityissmall,withapopulationof4,100.policepresencevisible St. Thomas Freeport Newport Martinique counter season www.yacht-transport.com World Yacht Class Logistics save upto 50 La Rochelle % Palma deMallorca Toulon Cherbourg voyage infall2007 newport -freeport NEW! —Continued onnextpage —Continued Genoa Stockholm Marmaris MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Although Spanish is the national language, Bocas is historically English-speaking. Although Spanish is the national language, Bocas is historically cruising guides by the likes Apart from the beautiful, glossy, bought-and-paid-for here? Well, it seems that The down side of the Bocas is: where do you go from e-mail me at If you’d like to chat more about Bocas Del Toro you can consultations, 50-percent-off hotel stays and a whole list of others including travel consultations, 50-percent-off hotel stays and a whole and legal discounts. and English is an impor- The first schools were set up by the United Fruit Company by here in English. tant part of the school curriculum, so you can still get Warehouse produces a free of the Zydlers, Eric Bauhaus and Lars Akerholm, Marine out for. “Bocas Direct”, which directory and guide to Panama which is worth looking a few minutes of Web surf- is specific to the Bocas, can be found on-line. It is worth depending on where your ing to find some of the other excellent sites on the area interests lie. Panama Canal. But many of cruisers who do leave either go north or through the They have found their perfect the boats in the marinas return season after season. hurricane hole. what I can or try and point [email protected] and I’ll be happy to answer you in the right direction. Above: Colorful local craft shops cater to an eclectic clientele across Bahia de Left: “There are more than 300 islands scattered like petals the Laguna de Chiriqui Almirante. If you want more open, but still protected, waters lies to the east’ you can reap benefits pensionado and hammocks, the smells, the cul- the and hammocks, , dugouts and water taxis. If you want , dugouts and molas Hotels and restaurants are advertised as are advertised Hotels and restaurants & marinas. Bocas Yacht Club There are two marine services There are a small number of outnumbered by The cruising community is By day and night the Bocas exude vibrancy Bocas exude and night the By day tures, the smiles and the garbage. tures, the smiles are because they are. Many “over the water” like local homes. Other sections built on stilts, for the are taken up by docks of the waterfront pangas to in the Bocas you have to travel any distance go by boat. from Colon across the bay Marina, on Isla maintained, new Bocas Town, is a beautifully overboard into clear facility where you can look a travelift, which waters. They have purchased are still negotiating is already in the area, but yard. Then there a site on the mainland for the on Isla Carenero, is Careening Cay Marina, enterprise for which has been a family-owned live on site and the last nine years. The owners marina business. supervise all aspects of the with full details. Both marinas have websites can be found in in Bocas, but most boat parts prepare for Panama or Colon (where cruisers the Pacific transiting the canal or crossing Marine Warehouse Ocean), or ordered through at Bocas Marina. by the Panamanian retired gringos lured here — includ- government’s wonderful incentives from the age of ing qualifying as a pensioner 18. As a such as 50-percent-off entertainment, 25-percent-off restaurants, 20-percent-off doctor’s and a joy in life that is contagious. I feel that I is contagious. in life that and a joy to keep and stretch take deep breaths have to the flowers, here, is rampant up. Everything the —Continued page from previous MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 Cruisers LoveFreeFun: ever, attached tonearlyeverything.Freefundoesexist,how- however, thereareadmissionfeesandpricetags board, it’sallfree,orleast,costsnothingextra.Ashore, witnessing thegreenflashis is fun.Landingatastytunajustintimefordinneror wave justright,watchingfrigatebirdssoarandswoop fun. Countingmeteorsinastar-filledsky,surfing finding aperfectshell,orsnorkelingcoralgardenis viewing marinetrafficinandoutofChristiansted tive town,thatlooksmuchasitdidincolonialtimes. available forafreewalkingtourofthisquaint,attrac- ground. Seewww.nps.gov/chri.Informationisalso plaques atthevariousbuildingsprovidemoreback- three St.CroixNPSsitesarefreeattheScaleHouse; house acrossthestreet.Informationbrochureson the DanishWestIndies&GuineaCompanyware- (1856), nowtheNPSvisitor’scenter,beforegoingto went throughtheCustomsHouseandScale During theDanishperiod,allimportsandexports graceful “welcomingarms”staircaseaddedin1829. Customs Housebuiltin1734andasecondstorywith The otherbuildingsarefree,includingtheOld Golden Passgetinforfree;regularadmissionisUS$3. Steeple BuildingMuseum(1753),seniorswithaNPS sweeping viewofGallowsBay.Atthefortandat ramparts, oldcannonsandamilitaryexhibit,plus Restored toreflectthe1830’speriod,ithasdungeons, protected thelandownersaswellharbor. and re-builtin1749afterafirehurricane.It the DanesbyslavesandFreeBlackartisansin1738, shade benchesandpicnictables.Thefortwasbuiltfor grassy JacksonPark,whereancientmahoganytrees Service (NPS).YellowFortChristiansvaernissetin acres andfivebuildingsrunbytheUSNationalPark Christiansted NationalHistoricSite,whichisseven row seating. ing topsandadjacentrestaurantsprovidefreefront- of anythingelseassociatedwithharbors.Benches,pil- ers, bird-watchers,seaplane-watchersandwatchers a perfectplatformforwalkers,joggers,people-watch- mercial dockandUSCustomsoffice.Meanwhile,itis someday mayextendaroundGallowsBaytothecom- seaplane terminalwithFortChristiansvaern,and so clearonecancountthelinksonananchorchain. protected (andfreefor30days)anchorage,withwater priced fuel.It’sashortdinghyridefrompeaceful, the way,isconvenienttocruiserswhostopforlow- place tolookistheChristianstedboardwalk,which,by Cruisers lovehavingfun,and“free”is Sailing thetradewindsamidstpodsofdolphins, Sunny benchesonthebulkheadarewellplacedfor At theeasternendofboardwalklies A quarter-mileofpedestrian-onlyplanksconnectthe if one knowswheretolook.InSt.Croix,thebest THE CHRISTIANSTEDBOARDWALK ALL ASHORE… fun . really fun. On than 400crabsina“crabcondo”attheirhome.Each hosted theracessincemid-1990s,andkeepmore crab. Formerlive-aboardsTitoandSueBacallaohave local andtouristpayUS$2tonamearacinghermit queue extendsacrosstheboardwalk,asoldandyoung, Brew Pub:TitoandSue’sCrabRaces.By5:00 the onlymicro-breweryinVirginIslands. of aviewthantheopen-airFortChristianBrewPub, restaurant willofferair-conditionedcomfort,butless lobby isanicecreamhut.Thehotel’s“ComingSoon” Bar hasapooltable,andneartheKingsAlleyHotel Streets orafreetourofGovernmentHouse.Pleasants retail opportunities(tax-free)onKingandStrand can findrestandrefreshment.It’salsoashortcutto abutting theboardwalkwhereawearyboard-walker unique handmadejewelrydesigns. sons arenevertoobusytochatwhileshowingtheir Gold’s creativedisplays.CrucianBrianBishopandhis Around thecorner,windowshoppersdroolatCrucian seating intheshadeunderanarchedcolonnade. where theAvocadoPittofferslightrefreshmentand throughout theharbor. cues, andthepleasantsteelpanmusiccanbeheard Hotel ontheCayhostsTuesdaynightbeachbarbe- Cay foradayonthebeachortorentwatertoys.The Harbor. The There’s freefamilymega-funeveryMondayatthe Kings AlleyWalkisoneofseveralshadyarcades Adjacent totheparkisKingChristianHotel, Hot-C by EllenSanpere ferries passengerstoProtestant PM , the one cansitintheshadeandwatchworldgoby. Waterfront’s soon-to-reopenrestaurant.Downstairs, Givens-Hayes appearsupstairsatStixxOnthe inside thepavilion,andanewonebyyachtieDiane on St.Croixbylocalandtransientartists.Anotheris fools theeyeandbeholder.Itisoneofmanymurals through atunnelonthewallofPanAmpavilion Free BeerTomorrowmuralofasteamenginegoing unique backgroundforcruiserphotos.Nearby,the replica standsbehindtheComancheHotel,providinga mills processedcaneonSt.Croix,andamill-base is uniqueandhersmileinfectious. appearance, sellingpeanutsandcandy.Herwardrobe Miss Judith,queenoftheboardwalk,makesanightly purchased intherestaurant.Wavinglikeamonarch, races, andmicro-brewedbeerisfreewithanentrée affect theraceresults.Kidseachgetatoyafter illegal movementsthatfrightenthecrabsandcan Violators’ limbsarewrappedinmaskingtapetorestrict “Don’t pointyourfingeranddon’tstompfeet.” want acrabofone’sowntorace.Theonlyrulesare, ers.” Whilewatchingtheracesisfree,it’shardnotto to theoutercircleforsponsoredprizestheir“own- OFF!” Titodoesthecallasuptoahundredcrabsrace racers areready,Suesoundsthekazoo,and“They’re being releasedonthebeachesofSt.Croix.When crab isfed,pamperedandracedfortwoweeksbefore When sugarwasking,morethanahundredwind- —Continued onnextpage —Continued MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 , Cayenne III Fun Stuff & Ecological Preserve the only place in USA Columbus visited snorkel trail, beach, picnic area in the Caribbean, and several wrecks accessible from land the 13,000-foot-deep ocean wall easy access to living reefs Deep End Bar (Fridays) to witness the green flash easternmost point of the United States More Free More Fort Frederik, Frederiksted Sandy Point Wildlife Preserve (weekends) Kayak in Salt River Bay National Park Columbus Landing (1493), Salt River, Buck Island Reef National Monument, marked Diving from your own boat; largest living reef Dive the Frederiksted pier; many other sites Dive/snorkel at Cane Bay; walk from the beach to Kite-boarding at Coakley Bay Music & volleyball, Rainbow Beach, (Sundays) All beaches have free public access Snorkeling from the beach; at least eight have Rainforest hiking tour Tito & Sue’s Crab Races, Divi Hotel (Wednesdays), Heritage Trail driving tour Crucian Christmas Carnival, Frederiksted Mardi Croix parade, Cane Bay Sunset, West End – best place Some free things to do and see elsewhere on Some free things to do and Sunset Jazz, Frederiksted (third Friday) Pt. Udall Millennium Monument, Ellen Sanpere first visited St. Croix in 1967, but did in 1967, but St. Croix first visited Ellen Sanpere St. Croix: perched on a spreader. When the sun sinks behind La behind sinks sun When the a spreader. on perched Monet harbor turns the serene Princesse Hill, Grande rises Cay, the moon on the Behind the palms colors. harbor on the sandy races the starfish and illuminates paradise. in America’s more free fun floor for 1995. She cruises aboard not return until her husband design Idylle 15.5, with a German Frers is their home port. Tony. Christiansted . PM , and food vendors set up PM Right: Murals, such as this at popular Right: Murals, , and wonderful paintings, photographs, gratis cruiser hang-out Styx, add to the atmosphere of fun cruiser hang-out Styx, add The Silver Bay Dock is home to charter sport-fishing The Silver Bay Dock is home Maritime, more fun but, Around the corner is Jones Several events on the free fun aficionado’s calendar Four Friday nights a year, downtown merchants On St. Patrick’s Day Saturday, the bands, floats and The Half-Ironman International Triathlon starts, finish- From fort to seaplane, the boardwalk is a special place parades that score high on the free-fun-o-meter. In free-fun-o-meter. on the high score that parades lighted as is jam-packed the boardwalk December, parade and sail) (power boats holiday-decorated sere- of Jones and the Gentlemen the harbor, through on of judges seated in front pirouette nade. Powerboats and crews dance Caravelle, while deck of the the upper February, In late January or early wave at the crowd. present and the Animal Welfare Center Krewe de Croix dogs dressed a Mardi Gras parade of Krewe de Barkus, breed is the The most popular in colorful costumes. of course. “AKC” — All Kinds o’ Crucian, from a day on the sea machines, and when they return crews clean the huge crowds gather to watch the The tarpon do scavenger wahoo, tuna and dolphin. the Rum Runners job later. duty below, warming up for musical entertainment dur- There’s no cover charge for at The Mix, and the ing dinner and Sunday brunch it’s rarely loud or late. music fills the harbor, though Once just a sailing school, alas, only the wind is free. gear, charters, broker- they offer performance sailing crowd. Beyond their age and dockage for the sailing Airlines seaplane base secured dock is the Seaborne boardwalk. Every 15 to 45 and the western end of the lands or takes off to St. minutes a pontoon plane the noise and splash Thomas or Old San Juan, thrilling first-time observers. can start or finish on the boardwalk. Tour maps are free, and there’s no charge for Gallery Walk, held the first Thursday evening of November through May, when art studios and galleries stay open until 9:00 Socializing with the artists is encouraged with wine and cheese, prints, glass, sculptures and original jewelry on display. stay open late for Jump-Up, a giant block party. Streets are closed at 5:00 for the crowd. Mocko Jumbies parade through town performing amazing maneuvers on tall stilts, eyes level with the second story. Different corners present jazz, steel pan or scratch bands to delighted audiences. miscellaneous green creatures assemble in Jackson Park and parade down Company Street through Times Square and then up King Street. es and transitions in Jackson Park on the first Sunday of May. Swimmers swim from Protestant Cay to the fort, then bike and run all over St. Croix and back to the park. Spectators line the bulkhead and the streets to cheer for the 600-plus athletes. What a show — and it’s free! in a special harbor. Cruisers can swim and snorkel to beach or bar. Squid squads patrol beneath the hull, rays jump sky high, and octopi hide in cement blocks on the bottom. The show from the cockpit features egrets, pelicans and sometimes a peregrine falcon Left: Miss Judith, a boardwalk regular, seen here in a boardwalk regular, seen Left: Miss Judith, St. Patrick’s Day parade St. Croix’s annual Scuba and Big Beard’s boats load and unload divers Sunday brunch means pan music and people- The Harbor Web-Cam, on the deck bar’s corner wall, This is also a great viewing spot for two of St. Croix’s Tenders to yachts from all over the world tie up at world tie all over the to yachts from Tenders and Buck Island day-trippers at the end of Queen Cross Street near their stores in the Caravelle Hotel. The hotel lobby has racks of informational brochures, free post- cards and maps for touring St. Croix. The pleasant arcade has a babbling water fountain and quiet tables for enjoying a fancy cup of coffee and wi-fi access. watching at Rum Runners, and every evening flood- lights and food scraps attract HUGE tarpon in shallow water. Locals and visitors can’t help but gawk, and the fish stare back with eyes aglow. It’s hard to believe so many big fish can occupy the small space between the boardwalk and the restaurant deck. attracts those with cellular phones — many US phones work in the USVI with no roaming charges. Standing in the painted circle, they call someone at home with a computer, who then goes to the website www.gotostcroix.com. That person (presumably shiv- ering in a snow-covered city) will see their cruising friends in front of a picturesque tropical turquoise harbor complete with bobbing boats and swaying palm trees. The challenge for the caller is to refrain from gloating too blatantly — or not. the Stixx dinghy dock. Cruisers and ex-cruisers seem ex-cruisers Cruisers and dinghy dock. the Stixx is a know, and this someone they to bump into always local knowledge. help and to get directions, good place island, friendliest Croix is the said that St. It’s been be the friendliest part. and this might —Continued page from previous MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34

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Phone/Fax (473)443-7882andVHFCH16 Dailydivesat9.30amand1.30pmorindividually • RendezvousServiceforSailorsatHillsborough, • FUEL, OIL,WATERandICE • PADI CoursesfromBeginnertoInstructor ● ● ● ● ● ● & 15SpecialtiesinEnglishDeutsch New environmentallyfriendlyhaulout Chandlery Mini -Marina Do ityourselforlabouravailable Fuel Dock,Water 50-ton hoist,18ftbeam,8ftdraft SpecialGroupPricesforSailors • ScubaandSnorkelGearRental • [email protected] Air-Fills atPADI5*Standard • Phone/Fax: 473.443.8175 www.scubamax.com Sandy Island&Tyrrel-Bay E-mail: [email protected] CARRIACOU VHF: 16 The featureofthisislandthatholdsyourgroundtackleis every sizeanddescription. Nancy’s agingSonylaptop.Therearemallsand“bigbox”stores,aswellshopsof excellent selectionofmeats,cheesesandbasicgroceries. the Frenchbridge,hasbecomeafavoriteofoursassourcegreatwinesandan beating theselectionandpricesonwinesFrenchside.TheUSMarche,near markets andshopswithspecialtyitems.Forthoseofuswhoenjoywine,thereisno familiar NorthAmericanandEuropeanbrands,discountstoressomesmaller our dinghyhere;thisyearitwasthenewanchorandalonglistofbitspieces. done whichwouldbedifficultorimpossibleinotherislands.Lastyearwebought every cruiserItalktoherehasatleastoneitembepurchasedorproject chandleries andservicesherethatarenotavailableinmanyoftheislands.Virtually cruisers. YachtingisabigpartoftheeconomyinSt.Martin.Assuch,thereare than weplan.Theremustbeotherattractions. which isdifficulttodescribe.Yetthatdoesn’texplainwhysomanyofusstaylonger US dollar.Thepaceisquicker,morebusiness-like.combinationhasanappeal sophisticated. TheDutchsidehasamoreNorthAmericanfeel.currencyisthe feel andambiance.ThecurrencyistheEuro.approachtoliferelaxedyet gives itasortofcharming,yetschizoid,character.TheFrenchsidehasEuropean longer thantheyhadplanned.Whatseducesustostayhereweplan? plan wastostayamonth,atmost.We’renotalone;wemeetmanyfolkswhohere last week,someonesaid,“St.Martineatsyouranchor”.Iguesstheyareright.Our St. Martinon12February,sevenweeksago.Whilewewerehavingdinnerwithfriends We’ve enjoyedSt.Martinbutit’stimetogo—untilnexthighseason. intended, renewoldfriendshipsandacquaintancesmakesomenewfriends. the approachinghurricaneseason.Buttheycomehere,stayabitlongerthan year. Thisistheturningpointforthoseheadednorthandsouth for rants andenjoyedbyfolksofallages. attire. Itisabeautifulbeachofseveralmiles,dottedwithbarsandrestau- this beach,atanypoint,isnotaplaceforanyonewithpuritanicalviewofbeach south endofthebeachisa“clothingoptional”area.Thefactmatterthat providing aspectacularvistaofbreakerswhenthenorthswellsarerunning.The there aresomebeautifulbeachesandbays. We hadacarandtooktheopportunitytomotor-toureastsideofisland; reception fromthewell-lubricatedcruisersgatheredonpatio. squeeze throughthechannelandI’msureallboatsappreciateenthusiastic the eveningbridgeopeningtimes.Itisinterestingtowatchhugemega-yachts custom ofcruisersgatheringtowatchtheboattrafficintoandoutlagoonat just ontheeastsideofDutchbridge(onlagoonside)hashelpeddrive lar placeforcruiserstogather.Asimilarhappyhourstructureattheyachtclub, price drinksandtapasduringhappyhourserveasacatalysttomakethispopu- Fathoms restaurant,justofftheairport,onsouthwestsideoflagoon.Half- Sunday, andaVHFnet(VHF14,0730hours)MondaythroughSaturday.Visit cruiser-oriented barwithlaundryservice,freewi-fi,aboatfleamarketevery tured inthemoodofablockparty. not tobemissed.Thecrowdisamixtureofcruisers,vacationersandlocals,cap- nights andthetownturnsintoonebigstreetfair.TheribsatTalkofTownare white sandbeach.Duringthehighseason,mainstreetisclosedoffonTuesday is anotherattractionforcruisers.Thereagoodharborandanexcellentstretchof coffee andapastry.Thepeoplearefriendlyhelpful. of Marigotandbrowsetheshops.Therearesidewalkcafeswhereyoucanenjoya The VillageandLaMainalaPâté.Weliketowalkthroughthecobblestonestreets is wonderfulandtheserviceexcellent,yetverylighthearted.Weparticularlyenjoy Marina PortlaRoyale.TheatmosphereisdecidedlyEuropeanandrelaxed.food But givenallthis,ashoppingtripwon’tlastweeks.Daysmaybe,butnot You canfindclothing,electronics,andmorehere.Wewereabletogetabatteryfor Provisioning isoutstandinghere.Therearelargemarketswithagoodvarietyof The availabilityofgoodsandservicesataffordablepricesisamajorattractionfor The islandisunique.splitpoliticalstructure—halfFrench,Dutch It’s thefirstdayofApril.WeareanchoredinMarigotBay,St.Martin.arrived Perhaps themostfuninSt.Martinisnumberofcruisershereatthistime We stoppedattheinfamousOrientBay.Thebayisprotectedbytwolargereefs, To takeadvantageoftheshoppingopportunities,rentingacarisgoodoption. On theDutchsideofislandtherearesomefunplaces,too.Shrimpy’sisa Four orfivemilesnorthofMarigotBayisGrandeCase.Thispicturesquelittletown We enjoytheFrenchsideofisland.Thereareseveraldelightfulrestaurantsin St. MartinAte Our Anchor ALL ASHORE… by JohnRowland fun ! MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 LTD INE DISTRIBUTOR R Parts - Repairs - Service P.O. Box 17, Kingstown FAX: (473) 444 2899 Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP opposite Howard’s Marine PAIE E-mail: [email protected] PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] Located CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent AMAHA MA Y TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL TEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364 KMRN ENGINES (DUTY FREE PRICES) SPARES SERVICE MARINE EQUIPMENT McIntyre Bros. Ltd. TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA wants to be nobody Fully 100 percent of this survey’s respondents say Fully 100 percent of this survey’s Customs & Immigration More than 80 percent of readers agree that most As in our last two surveys, respondents said that Although one reader felt that “most are improving”, Grenada (including Carriacou) received the same As in previous surveys, it is strongly suggested that There is a loud and clear call in this fourth survey In fact, many survey respondents see a need for The Future? We introduced a new topic to our Readers’ Survey Environmental concerns (e.g. pollution, environ- A new specter has arisen in many respondent’s Some, however, see the other side of the coin: a The Perfect Anchorage respondents, as in According to this year’s survey The anchorage where virtually suffers from security problems, harassment, noise, an suffers from security problems, Lack of facil- unclean environment and overcrowding. Other undesirable fac- ities was not of much concern. boatboys, too many tors written in include nuisance spots, and lack of moorings in the good anchoring operators including jet- respect from other watercraft and anchoring-chal- ski users, speedboat drivers lenged bareboaters. they prefer to be in areas without jet-skis. Customs and Immigration officers in the Caribbean are efficient and courteous. they found the “most efficient and courteous” Customs and Immigration officials on the islands of Bequia and Martinique. In national groupings, the French Antilles as a whole came out ahead, with St. Vincent & the Grenadines a close second. two countries that showed marked improved in our 2004 survey compared to 2001 did some backsliding this time. We’ll be having a private word with those who were voted “least efficient and courteous”! number of “most” and “least” votes, as they did in the last survey. tourism departments work closely with Customs and Immigration to build good customer-service skills. Survey respondents would also like to see Customs and Immigration hours, rules and fees clearly posted at each port of entry. for sub-regional unity regarding yacht clearance. Readers suggest that Customs and Immigration pro- cedures be standardized (and even computerized) for the entire Eastern Caribbean. more collaboration among all the Eastern Caribbean governments and boating stakeholders to safeguard and improve yacht tourism. this year, “What is your vision of the Caribbean in the next 5 years?” Interestingly, about half our respondents see a sweet dream while the other half see a nightmare. But the issues are the same. mental degradation, habitat destruction) are para- mount. Overcrowding, overdevelopment, alienation of once-public land into private (or corporate) hands, mass tourism, increasing prices, more bureaucracy and the rampant proliferation of moorings in good anchorages are visions of an undesirable future. “I hope the beautiful coasts will not become spoiled by mega-projects, huge buildings and marinas,” says one correspondent. “Otherwise the uniqueness of the islands will be lost.” minds: the fear of boating becoming increasingly expensive across the board due to a mega-yacht boom. A reader asks, “Do all the islands need to jump on the mega-yacht bandwagon? It would be interesting to know what they bring to the average citizen.” Caribbean where the focus is on the environment, crime has been brought under control, governments appreciate and nurture the contribution to the local economy of all types of yachting, there is less bureaucracy, prices are still reasonable, and the standard of living for local people has been much improved. need to address their own garbage issues; we can’t their own garbage issues; need to address to.” expect others has, far above all else, the past, the perfect anchorage people. Other desir- a clean environment and friendly dock, security patrols able features include a dinghy water. Shops, moorings and the availability of fuel and considered somewhat less and marina facilities were indicate that the ideal important. Write-in comments quiet, uncrowded and has anchorage is also scenic, helpful, non-aggressive boatboys. respon- On-line: www.caribbeancompass.com Compass Caribbean Compass content you like best are reportedly easy to find, Compass Compass 2007 RESULTS 2007 every month and usually read most arti- every month and usually read PEOPLE readers are and what you’re thinking. In readers are and what you’re “useful” or “very useful”!

, so stay tuned! .

Compass COMPASS survey, the infor- Although this is not a scientific Copies of the As in previous surveys, the typical The results of the fourth The results The majority of respondents report that they read The majority of respondents Advertisers please note: Ninety-six percent of ISSUES Security Although more than half our respondents still say Nevertheless, nearly three-quarters of the respon- To improve the security situation, readers see a need Environment As in previous surveys, most people are in favor of More than two-thirds do not believe that yachts con- Eighty-eight percent agreed that disposal of yacht Although 95 percent said in the last survey that

READERS’ SURVEY READERS’ Caribbean Compass general, responses show that you are aware, thought- general, responses show that relevant to your lifestyle. ful and eager for information We’ve learned what mation it reveals gives a good indication of who mation it reveals gives a Compass Readers’ Survey are in. We’re always curious to learn are in. We’re always curious Readers’ Survey adjusting to stay on the whether our compass needs to all who took the course readers want, so thanks concerns and sugges- time to share your opinions, information with the tions. We’ll be sharing pertinent and other groups, appropriate government agencies you an ever-improving and using the rest to bring Compass cles, rating them good to excellent. Some readers note that although they don’t read certain columns, they realize that they are important to others. Even departments that do not have universal appeal have their handful of passionate fans. and two or more people read every copy. the respondents said they consider the advertisements in Compass that they feel that security is getting to be more of a problem, there was a slight decrease from previous surveys. As in our last two surveys, the majority of respondents feel that local authorities are not taking adequate action to ensure visitors’ security. dents agree that the Caribbean is relatively safe compared to most other tourist destinations. Readers have obviously drawn a distinction between “security” and “safety” — that is, theft is an important concern, but readers don’t feel that they are in personal danger. for prompt police response to yacht-related crimes (perhaps facilitated by VHF radios and quick-response boats), official follow-up after crimes and speedy jus- tice in the case of any crime against a visitor. the introduction of marine parks and are willing to pay park entry fees, “as long the fees go directly to protection of the environment, not to private enterprise or the government”. tribute significantly to marine pollution. garbage should be banned on small islands without adequate facilities. Nearly the same percentage felt strongly that yachting destinations, especially marinas and boatyards, should provide facilities for envi- ronmentally safe disposal of used oil, batteries and other toxic waste. yachts should pay a fee to help pay for collection and disposal of yacht garbage when clearing into a country, slightly less than 90 percent feel that way now. One respondent commented, “Why should yachts pay for proper disposal? Local citizens throw their garbage and litter everywhere and when it ends up in the sea the yachts get blamed for it.” Another noted, “Sailors (your own Readers’ Forum tops the list for the fourth (your own Readers’ Forum taken notes on what you’d time running!), and we’ve of in future issues of like to see more (or less) Compass dent is 45 years old or over, is cruising the islands aboard his or her own yacht and is usually on the move. Two-thirds said that they came to the Caribbean with the intention of staying for more than one year, with the average having cruised for seven years in the Caribbean — talk about long-term visitors! A number of those who say they do not intend to stay for more than a year note that they regularly come to the Caribbean to cruise, often for four to six months each winter. The majority of respondents came from North America, and the rest from Europe. MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 21) TELLTALE 20) TENDS 18) TART 16) THREE 15) TEA 14) TILL 13) TENON 12) TAIL 10) TEAL 7) TORTOISE 6) TAN 5) THROAT 3) THAT 1) TENT ACROSS Crossword Solution your days. you willfindromancewithanewcrewmembertoliven tide isrisingandgoodnewsontheway. and don’tletflukyheadwindsforceyoutochangesails. another. Don’tletitthrowyouoffcourse. to makeyourselfunderstoodmeetswithonestormafter for thebetter. munications areasofyourlife,romancewilltakeaturn You shouldgetasurpriseinthemailafter11th. cate mattersforthelasttwoweeks. calm down,youwillfindthatmisunderstandingscompli- until the11th,whenpropagationshouldimprove. times. lems youhadlastmonthwillchangetacktohappier static andmisunderstandingsabound. third weekwhenthingsbecomegarbledandyoumayfind helm. week. Maintainyourcourseandkeepafirmgriponthe doldrums youmayfeelespeciallyputuponinthethird toward youduringthefirstweek.Withbusinessin cruising buddiesblowyouoffcourse. board easier.Don’tletnegativityfromfemalecrewor drive towardsnewideasandchangestomakelifeon Even thoughyouwillfinditdifficulttoexpressyourself, Your businesswillseemtobestuckinthemud,but Your lovelifewillbeabeatafterthe8th.Trytostaycool The breezesofbusinesswillfreshen,whileyourability While you'reinstagnantwatersthecreativeandcom- Your lovelifewillmeetwithbadweatherafterthe8th. As thepreviousmonth’sroughseasinyourlovelife You willfinddifficultiesincommunicatingcreativeideas Love willdominateyourthoughtsthismonth.Theprob- Communications willbeprolificandproductiveuntilthe Use thistimetodevelopthemanycreativeideasflowing In thesecondweekyou’llfeelasurgeofinspirationand MAY 2007 SAGITTARIUS (23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN (22Dec-20Jan) QAIS(21Jan-19Feb) AQUARIUS SCORPIO (24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS (21Apr-21May) GEMINI (22May-21Jun) CANCER (22Jun-23Jul) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) VIRGO (24Aug-23Sep) ARIES (21Mar-20Apr) LIBRA (24Sep-23Oct) 9) TERN 8) TIDAL 7) THRIFT 6) TALL 5) TEMPEST 4) THIMBLE 3) TOR 2) TINY 1) THOLE DOWN 27) TERRAPIN 26) TEREDO 25) TEACH 24) TEN LEO (24Jul-23Aug) 24) TO 23) THIN 22) TARP 21) THERE 20) TEST 19) TRUST 18) TENDER 17) THE 14) THEN 13) THROTTLE 11) TALE Sometimes, Iwishwas To whomhegivesallthisattention,bigmoneyandcare. But Ijustwishitwasme I amnotajealouswoman, And hewalksaround. When Iseemtosleepinourdoublebed, That hekissesherinthenight, I haven’tseenityet,butimagine He givesherwhatsheneeds—andalittlemore. When she—withoutwordsaskshimforsomething, A beautifulwhitelady,twentyyearsold. Yet, thereisaproblem:Thereanothershe, — stillheismynumberone! I’d learntthat.somuch From hottocold,fromhomeplacewideworld. But heisaGemini,twin—whochanges To getaroundmine. And warm His handsarebigandstrong His hairissoftandyellow,likeababy’s. He isclever,hisbrainlikethesharpestknifeatbutcher. In hisblueeyes. I candreammyselfaway My belovedloverislightbrown,slim E-mail: [email protected] Website:www.frangipanibequia.com frangipani HOTEL in calypsodreams. Encore amour tell nosecrets. where palmtrees in theeveningshade french kisses Later on, Pas deproblem! Mais pourquoispas? I decide, Look, butdon’ttouch in themorningearly. saucy with impishgrin, “Bonjour” saysshe in toobriefabikini. far toojaunty a lithesomelass, Espied afar on apinkshellbeach. shadows stilllong Dans laplage French Curves jump upThursday nights! jump upThursday our famous and barbecue the ISLAND POEM • RESTAURANT Don’t miss — NicholasLee Island Poets — AnneHjælmsø Rumkath Tel: (784)458-3255 Fax:(784)458-3824 Bequia . • BAR Dreams arethatwhichfillmysails. When Iseethem,pray. When Iseethem,shiver. Dreams strangledfrombeingheldtoolong. Dreams runoutofcourage, Dreams lostinlife’sstorms, Dreams thatnevermaterialized, The flotsamofderelictdreams. They arethedebris, I thinknot! These boats,thesepeople? Are thesethederelicts, Afraid andlostfilledwithpain. The slopedposture;thecrestfallengait; The sad,emptylookdeepintheeyes; Full ofseastoriespastglories. Bending theearofapatientbarman, Drinking beeratoh-nine-hundred, They arethere: It seems,ineverybar, Eroding inthewindandrain. Waiting forownerswhonevercome, Sitting forlornonthejack-stands Sagging riggingandtatteredflags, Ragged sailsonabrokenboom, Faded gelcoatandrustedstainless, They arethere: It seems,ineveryyard, On abarnacle-encrustedanchorchain Or amastless,hatchlesshull Protruding fromthewater Or amastorbowsprit Stripped andbleaching Washed uponthebeach, They arethere: It seems,ineveryharbor, Derelicts — JohnRowland MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 Solution on page 36 — sized sheaves on the sea 24) __ and fro 9) Sea bird 11) Yarn 13) Engine control 14) Now and ____ 17) Pronoun often preceding ship’s name 18) Small vessel that services a larger one 19) “In God We _____” 20) Trial 21) “Over _____” 22) Short for canvas hatch covering 23) Thick and ____ block; one with different ACROSS 1) Canvas shelter 3) Not this end, fits around mast 5) Hollowed gaff of old-time sails 6) ___bark; color food item from Galapagos 7) Once sailors’ 10) A shore bird 12) Rope end of mast cut to fit into step 13) Square heel 14) Cash box 15) “___ for two” 16) “_____ sheets to the wind” 18) Sailor’s girl? 20) Controls sheets 21) Wind direction indicator 24) “Fastnet Force ___” 25) Edward _____, pirate 26) Wood-eating worm 27) Freshwater turtle DOWN oars 1) Type of wooden pin for holding 2) Very small 3) Name in Norway 4) Ring spliced into a rope 5) Gale 6) ____ ship, or square-rigger 7) Frugality 8) Pertaining to the effect of the moon and sun Nautical Alphabet: Alphabet: Nautical Two for ‘T’ 11 6 22 23 14 9 rossword 10 20 C Caribbean Compass 2007 © 12 27

[email protected] 24 25 ruising ruising 5 17 C 21 26 34 12 13 ompass

78 18 19 15 16

C parlumps marooned MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2007 © anything, hesniveled,andtheywerenastymaliciouscreaturesthatruinedthe Monkeys thatroamedwildalloverBarbados.Theyhadfangscouldbitethrough Uncle Sollybutnevercloseup.NotsoforErnie,whowasscaredoftheGreen monkey! I’msureIsawamonkeyupthere!” when aslightbreezerustledtheleavesattopofgully,Erniecalledout,“A rible creatureslivinginthecavernsbehindlong,graspingrootsoftreesand erns whereStranglerFigtreeshadtakenroot.Itwaseasytoimagineallsortsofhor- er cliffoflimestoneandonthelandwardsideopenedoutinhollowscav- spookier thefarthertheywent.Theopendroptosearockssoonbecameanoth- of bluewater.Itwasveryquiettoo,gloomyandspooky,itgotgloomier porous limestoneandontheother,asheerdropdowntorockyshoreglimpses trees withtheirbranchesmeetingoverhead.Ononesideofthetrackwasawall all time. rail-track bed.Ofcoursetherailswerelonggone,butcuttingwouldbetherefor laughed everytimeUncleSollytoldthestory. class passengersgotoutandwalkedthethird-classpushed!Ernie going uptheinclines,first-classpassengersremainedintheirseats,second- same, therewerethreeclassesoffares.Whentheenginethreatenedtoconkout were pulledbyapuffingsteamengineandalthoughallthecarriageslooked the limestonecliffsbeforetrainmadeastopatBath.Thepassengercarriages north pastBathsheba.Atthebottomofgrassyhillwasanoldcuttingthrough railway ranallthewayfromBridgetown,capital,alongcoastandendedup you Ernie?” kitchen steps.AuntJosephinahadenough. thing excitingtheycouldthinkofandwerenowteasingtheolddoglyingby going todothatagain.Nowwhat?Afteraweek,theboyshaddonejustaboutevery- Uncle Sollyhadbuiltandtheyalmostendedupasroadkill,soweren’t Silver!” everytime. driver gottheshockofhislife.Trevorthoughtthisablastandwouldcryout“Hi-ho, was highyoucouldn’tseeathingcomingintheoppositedirectionandmanypoor his footonthebrakejustintimeandcareeningaroundcorner.Whencane nearing thesharpcornersthatcutsugarcanefieldsintoneatsquares,putting clutch ontothestraphangingbyherrightarmwaswayUncleSollyspedup made Ernie’slittlesisterNynacoverhereyeswithhandsandAuntJosephina and blewhishornateveryoneeverythingtogetoutoftheway.Butwhatreally roads; hehadnorespectforstrayanimalswanderinglazilyalongthenarrowroads ily intotheoldcarandsetoffforanafternoondrive.UncleSollywasaterroron the sugarcanefieldsatbreakneckspeed.EverySundayUncleSollyherdedhisfam- Aunt Josephina’sfishcakesandheloveditwhenUncleSollydrovehiscararound upon coralblocksinasmallvillageoverlookingthewildAtlanticcoast.Helovedhis holidays withhiscousinErnie.TrevorlovedstayinginUncleSolly’slittlecottage,set Lost: “Where, where?”yelledTrevor.Hehadseenafewmonkeysonhisdriveswith Very soon,theboysfoundthemselvesinatunnelformedbystringy,grey-barked Off thecousinsran,downthroughcoarsegrass.Theycameoutatoldcoral Ernie wonderedwhyhehadn’tthoughtofithimself.Intheolddays,asingle-track “Why don’tyouboysgowalkdowntheoldrailwayline?Youknowwhereitis, Last yearTrevorandErniehadharnessedthelittleoldponytobuggythat A wholeyearhadpassedandTrevorwasbackinBarbadostospendtheschool bumping overtheground, butthesemakethebasketveryheavy. Ifanysmallfish remain inthebasket. Thebasketismadeupofmetalrings towithstandthe up thecatch.Anysilt orsandpassesbackthroughthedredge whiletheshellfish bag) withabarinfront, usuallywithteeth.Asthebasketis towed, thebarrakes bed (forexample,oystersandothershellfish). Thedredgeisametalbasket(or method usedtocatchspecieswhichlive inthesandandsiltofseaorlake sets outtodiguptheseafloor.Thisis what happensin Imagine then,howmuchmoredestructive itiswhenthefishingmethodactually sea bedisstirredupbynetsandbeams thataredraggedacrossitssurface. are othermethodswithoutnetsthat justasdestructive. be verydamagingtotheenvironmentas wellastoglobalfishstocks.Butthere DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS Last monthwedescribedthedamagecaused bybeamtrawling,inwhichthe We havelookedatwaysinwhichsomemethods offishingthatusenetscan

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e a . FISHERMAN will ensureacontinualsupplyoffishfor thefuture. is aproblem.Onlysustainablemanagement oftheworld’smajorfishinggrounds the chainwhothendon’thaveanything toeat. the bottomoffoodchainsotheirdisappearance affectscreatureshigherup made fromallthelittlefishthathumans don’tliketoeat.Theselittlefishareat venture. However,eventhishasitsproblems. Thefisharefedfishmeal,whichis these arenowillegalinmostplacestheworld. their linesatnightwhenthebirdsarenotthere. line throughachutesothatthebirdscan’tseebaitatall.Othersonlyrelease it sinksfaster,sothere’slesstimeforthebirdstoseeit.Someboatsrelease can carrywavingplasticstreamerstoscarethemoff.Ifthebaitusedisdefrosted snatch thebaitandarecaughtonhooks. attracted tothebaitedhooksaslineisputintowater,sotheydive because thousandsofbirdsarekilledbylonglineseachyear.The and seabirdsgetcaughtonthehooks.Theseabirdby-catchismostworrying, longlining isthatitgatherstoomuchby-catch.Somemarinemammals,turtles the waterforsometimebeforebeinghauledbackintoboat.Theproblemwith metres longandithasbaitedhooksatintervalsalongitslength.Itisthenleftin put outalong,sinkinglineoffthesternofboat.Thecanbemanykilo- be squashedundertheweightanddie. or reefcreaturessuchasspongesgetcaughtupwelltheshellfish,theywill for sure,”heanswered. band, “Didyougivethemlicks?”UncleSollywinkedattheboys,“Beat‘emrealgood the bendsandturnsoftunnelsuntilitlituprelievedyoungfaces. didn’t takelongforUncleSollytofindthecaveandshinehisbigtorch’slightinto and yappingwhenTrevorErnieheardhimtheyyelledforalltheirworth.It the boys,“I’llgivethembothagoodbeating,”hemuttered. So UncleSollygotthebigelectrictorch,calledupolddogandstrodeofftofind the sunsetandboyshadnotreturnedJosephinatoldSollywheretheygone. had betterwaitforUncleSollytofindthem.Andthatisjustwhathappened.When in thetunnelssohepulledErnieovertoroughlimestonewallandsaidthatthey any idea,butheknewitwasnogoodblusteringaboutandgettinglostevendeeper a terribleblackness. the lightfromentrancetocaveshowinghimwayout,allhesawwas The twoboysclungtoeachotherinfearandwhereTrevorhadexpectedsee to runbackoutofthecave,knockingErnieoverandthenfallingontophim. den hefeltlong,saber-likefangs.Inpanic,Trevordroppedtheskullandturned sockets andthehollowwherenosehadbeen.Butwhatwasthis?Allofasud- had found.Itcertainlywasaskullbecauseinthedeepdarkhecouldfeeleye Trevor shruggedoffErnie’shandsandbentdowntopickupwhateveritwashe skull nomatterwhoitbelongedto.“I’mscared;let’sgoback,”hewhimpered.But something!” heshouted.“Ibetit’sapirateskull!”ButErniedidn’twanttofind over somethingsolid,sortofroundandhollowsounding.“IthinkI’vefound ror, “andtheremustbeapirate’streasureheretoo.”Justthen,Trevortripped must beanendtothiscave,”hewhisperedwhileErnieclunghisarminter- brave faceonitandcheupsed*:“Onlybats!Wewokethemup,that’sall.” grabbed Trevor,whohadalsogotoneofthenastiestshockshislife,butheputa bleeps andasquadronofoffendedbatsrushedoutthecave.Ernieshrieked of thecave.Suddenlytherewasagushairoverhishead,twitteringangry loudly underhissneaker. though theprisonoftreerootscastdeepshadowsintothroatcave. idea tohimself.Thecavesmeltofanimalsandbatsthedimlightthatstruggled dropped about.Ernieimmediatelythoughtofmonkeyshidingoutthere,butkeptthe The floorofthecavewasdustyandtherewerehusksoldnutsdecayingfruit with limestoneyouneverknewwhenajaggedpitwouldopenupandswallowyou. the cave.EvenTrevorwassensibleenoughtowatchwhereheputhisfeetbecause found atreasurecave!”SoErnieforgotaboutthemonkeysandfollowedTrevorinto Strangler Figandtherehefoundadeeplimestonecave.“ComeonupErnie!I’ve n’t like.ButTrevorwasn’tconvinced.Heclimbedupintothebranchesof farmers’ vegetables,takingabiteoutofeverythingandtossingawaywhattheydid- *cheups: tosuckone’steeth;acommon,expression-filledsoundforWestIndians THE END Back homeAuntJosephinalookedcrosslyatTrevorandErnieaskedherhus- The olddog,happytobeoffforanadventure,ranalongthetrainline,barking “Do youknowwhereweare?”sobbedErnie.Trevorhadtoadmitthathehadn’t Trevor felthiswayalongthewallofcaveandsoonitgrewquitedark.“There “Sissy!” chidedTrevorashefelthiswaydeeperandintothedarkrecesses “Wish Ihadmytorchwithme!”gulpedErnieashetrodonadrytwigthatcracked How manythree-letter wordscanyoumakeoutoftheletters oftheword WORLD PUZZLE Is thereanygoodnews? In anattempttoincreasefishstocks,farminghasseemedaworthwhile Other dangerousfishingmethodsincludeuseof Fishermen aretryingavarietyofmethodstokeepthebirdsaway.Theboats Longlining ? is anotherfishingmethodwhichcanbedestructive.Fishermen — Answeronpage20 Well, atleasteveryonenowrecognizesthat there Barbados poison and explosives, but MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Available at bookstores or from www.macmillan-caribbean.com. Available at bookstores or from The Lesser Antilles have provided the world with faces and names in all fields of with faces and names have provided the world The Lesser Antilles would include Sir James’ fellow countrymen and women, his former constituents, women, his and fellow countrymen include Sir James’ would politics regional of local politics, and scholars elite, journalists, political the regional and organi- in the welter of names reader might find confusion and more. A casual would want the that Sir James mentions. It is understandable zations that Mitchell on considerable obvious that he has drawn to be complete and it is historical record a glos- a bit more charity to the uninitiated; but I would beg for diaries and writings, helpful. sary would be as disparate to the isles’ size. Names that are far out of proportion human endeavor to mind. Sir Dame Eugenia Charles come Sparrow, Derek Walcott and as the Mighty of history. and now awaits the judgment has written his testament James Mitchell BOOK REVIEW BY PAUL TYLER BY PAUL REVIEW BOOK are transcribed from Sir and this may account for sty- by James Mitchell. Macmillan Caribbean, by James Mitchell. Beyond the Islands records the life of a man rising from what once Beyond the Islands

Beyond the Islands

easoning and spin in the global news militate against any objective easoning and spin in the

AND BEYOND AND

Beyond the Islands: An Autobiography Beyond the Islands: It is easy to be cynical about a political autobiography these days; the levels of a political autobiography these days; the levels It is easy to be cynical about a different world from today’s. Bequia was a much more Son Mitchell was born into The island nation of St. Vincent & the Grenadines was born in a time of crisis, in The island nation of St. Vincent & the Grenadines was Some of the most interesting pages in

The book is not without its faults. Styles vary within it. I have been told that an The book is not without its faults. Styles vary within LOOKING BACK LOOKING specious r sailors and fishermen, with few modern amenities. traditional place of boat builders, the only, barrier to the dan- Then, the strength of families was the first, and often from view in the explosion of gers of the outside world. It is a world quickly receding electronic media. ©2006. 464 pages, black-and-white photos and maps. Paperback ISBN 1-4050-1417- ©2006. 464 pages, black-and-white £17.95. 2, £14.50; hardback ISBN 0-2300-2220-0, of their purpose. That said, former Prime Minister assessment, which is, of course, Sir James “Son” Mitchell has written a political auto- St. Vincent & the Grenadines, founded a political party, the process of which he doc- biography. He has, after all, be bewildering for those not familiar with modern uments in detail that might not have survived and flourished for more than a quar- Vincentian history. He could honed political instincts. Indeed, some of his autobi- ter of a century without finely battles and his victories. After all, he is the one who ography is an account of his stones flung at him during his first outing into politics survived having dung and a verbal equivalent today. On St. Vincent, there is still and sometimes suffers the his deprecation, even in retirement. I have no expertise cottage industry devoted to on know that it would be wrong to dismiss this book in the local politics but I do There are many stories interwoven into his long account of petty partisan bickering. above the level of base political motivation. reminiscence that raise it well the aftermath of a destructive volcanic eruption and with superpower tensions on the aftermath of a destructive volcanic eruption and growth of this small group of the rise. The difficulties attending the nurture and immense. Sir James Mitchell islands, impoverished and lacking infrastructure, were the maze of international records his work in opposition and government to thread to anyone who wants institutions to create and build a viable state. It is instructive countries in their efforts to to understand the myriad problems confronting small make a better life for their people. was a small, distant colony to become the leader of a newly independent nation and was a small, distant colony to become the leader of a his youth and the educa- a recognized leader on the world stage. Sir James records university student in Canada tion of his mind and senses in and out of school. As a hitchhiked on the continent he worked as a railway porter. Later, from England, he Sir James returned to Bequia, and returned to reside in London. After years abroad, Hotel. became a businessman and founded Bequia’s iconic Frangipani editor died in the preparation of James’ diaries. They have the arresting immediacy penned in the heat of the moment James’ diaries. They have the arresting immediacy penned event. Storm clouds hovered or during quick reflection in the aftermath of a prominent struggled to find their feet and over the islands of the Caribbean as the small republics tragic events, ranging from the Sir James gives us an insider’s view of these sometimes Muslimeen coup in Trinidad. brutal collapse of Bishop’s regime in Grenada to the for his family and the dif- Through the diary entries we also get to know his concerns we get a glimpse of the man: a ficulties of a public life. Together with passing asides, and handsome women. bit of a raconteur, literate, a lover of good wine, fine clothes he is willing to let his public However, Sir James is a reserved man in his book and without revealing more. striving and his known accomplishments stand for him the more expansive ones to listic differences between the terse opening chapters and A natural readership follow. The nature of the intended audience is problematic. MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 lection ofshortstories, 2006. HecurrentlyresidesinAtlanta,Georgia. 2004. Hissixthnovel, produced in2003,andthe“TheHippopotamusCard” Kidder. Hehasalsowrittentwoplays,“TheBurglary”, ring JamesEarlJones,LynnRedgraveandMargot Annihilation ofFish”,wasfilmedinLosAngelesstar- Lunatic wrote thescreenplayforfilmversionof to Teach lowed by The Lunatic Jamaica andtheUnitedStates.In1987,hepublished published in1983andwasacriticalsuccessboth level text-books. where heestablishedhimselfasawriteroftertiary Shortly thereafter,hereturnedtotheUnitedStates, returned brieflytoJamaica,wherehewasmarried. writing. Hebecameafull-timewriterin1975and lege text-bookpublisherswhoinfluencedhimtobegin College forashortperiod.Hethenjoinedfirmofcol- After leavinguniversity,hetaughtatthePasadenaCity ed in1967.HealsoobtainedaMastersDegree1968. ed CaliforniaStateUniversity,fromwhichhegraduat- accounting clerk. moved backtoKingstonagain,whereheworkedasan Cornwall College.Afterleavinghighschool,Winkler moved backtoMontegoBaywhereheattended education attheExcelsiorHighSchool,however,he to livewithhisgrandparents.Hebegansecondary eight; ayearlater,hisfathersenthimbacktoKingston 1942. HisfamilymovedtoMontegoBaywhenhewas BOOK REVIEWBYELAINEOLLIVIERRE interlinked storiesoftheupperclassandexpatriate ing lotsofmoneywerequalitiestobeadmired,the was stillacolonialsocietywherelighterskinandhav- are revealedaspreparationsunderway.Inwhat year is1955andpersonalfriendshipsanimosities annual yachtracefromLuceatoMontegoBay.The among Jamaicanboatownersinanticipationofthe for absorbingreading. Zechariah, thecontrastingtalesoftwomenmake endurance. Apartfromarathersaccharineendingfor unhappy andenviousofZechariah’swillpower Meanwhile, wereadofanexpatriatedoctor,deeply measures toreachlandareespeciallypoignant. is sufferingfromincurablecancer,sohisdesperate falling asleepinhiscanoe.Thereaderknowsthathe of Zechariah,afishermanwhodriftsouttoseaafter most famous, and personalitiesofJamaica. though allthestoriesarecentredonlife,culture ticular volumefirst.Thethemesareverydiverse, order, forwantofanyotherreasonchoosingapar- Anthony C.WinklerCollection. issued inpaperbackbyMacmillanCaribbeanasThe ward toreadinghissixnovelswhichwererecentlyre- play, “TheBurglary”,performedthere.SoIlookedfor- felt myselfluckytohavebeeninTorontoseehis I hadreallyenjoyedreadingAnthonyWinkler’scol- His firstforayintofiction, In 1962,hemigratedtoCalifornia,whereattend- Anthony WinklerwasborninKingston,Jamaica, The GreatYachtRace My favourite,Ithink,wasthefirstandprobably I decidedtoreadthesixbooksinchronological , andin1999hisoriginalscreenplay,“The Six RipeSlicesofWest IndianLife The GreatYachtRace (1995) and which becameabestseller.Thiswasfol- The PaintedCanoe The Duppy The DogWar The AnnihilationofFish, tells oftheintenserivalry The PaintedCanoe (1992), . Thistellsthestory (1997). In1991he , waspublishedin Going toHome , was and The desperation tobefirstacrosstheline. chord asyoureadofthetacticsandstrategiesusedin asts, thedescriptionsofraceitselfwillstrikea same time.Tothoseofyouwhoareregattaenthusi- communities areallhilariousbutoftentouchingatthe so Mr.Winklerwasararecreatureindeed. unusual tofindaJamaicanreturninghomework, Jamaicans totheUS,CanadaandEurope.Itwas ble, andtherewasahuge“braindrain”ofeducated political situationthenseemedtomanybeunsta- expatriates wereteachinginJamaica.TheJamaican written aboutatime(1975)whengreatnumberof Settling inthecountrysidetoteachatalocal The autobiographical Coming HometoTeach was www.macmillan-caribbean.com. beautiful descriptionsofWestIndianlifeandculture. reading fortheiraccurateandwittyinsightsinto so maybeit’sjustme!),theotherbooksarewellworth says thatmanyreadershavefound larly prudish,Ididhavetocringeatalotofwhatread. pornographic. AlthoughIdon’tconsidermyselfparticu- and Ifeltthatthelanguagescenesvergedon white womenare this book,Iwasn’thappywiththestereotypes—all again, Iamsureknowcharactersverylikethosein gle thehomeoflocalland-owner.Eventhough, decides theyneedmoremoneyanddecidetobur- by village.ThetalealmostendsintragedywhenInge with athirdparty(Service)whomshefindsinthenear- seems tobeonelongsexualexploit,sharedinthiscase nymphomaniac whiteGermantourist(Inge)whoselife black guy(Aloysius)meetsupintheforestwitha reason.) Inthisstory,thenot-quite-mentally-stable hated ittoo,apparently,butmaybenotforthesame all blackmenare the book dialect wordsforthisonlymadeitmoregraphic.Ihated the moreprivatepartsofhumanbody.Usinglocal (almost) constantreferencestosexualintercourseand grounds. Myonlyproblemwiththebookswas all recognizesimilarindividualsfromourownback- books. Hischaractersaresofinelydrawnthatwewill titude ofzanyinhabitantsisveryobviousinallthe strong enoughforanything. under-the-bed conversationswithGod)isacharacter ferent areclearlyfelt,butPrecious(helpedbyherdaily being aCaribbeanimmigrantinworldsototallydif- son-in-law takesallofherenergies.Thechallenges suits, andfendingoffthedog,butlerevenher using Precious’legforvariousunmentionablepur- give thepun)iswithdogitself.Riccardoinsistson Jamaica, althoughherbiggestboneofcontention(for- the concretejunglecomparebadlywithlifeinrural for awealthyAmericanlady.Herimpressionsoflifein family, andwhoistrickedintoajobas“dog-sitter” Florida tostaywithherpoliceofficerdaughterand youngish Jamaicanwidow,Precious,whogoesto able talewithahappyending. without anyfaith-basedinterpretations,it’sanenjoy- has provokedmuchreligiouscommentarybut,even can doanythingtheywant.Isthatheaven?Thisstory looks remarkablylikeJamaicabutwhereeveryone who hasjustdiedandgoesto…well,aplacethat ing reading. the politicallandscapeoftimemakeforfascinat- US. Onceagain,accurateportrayalsofthepeopleand he hadmadeenoughofasacrificeandreturnedtothe cy ofJamaicangovernmentoffices,heeventuallyfelt British curriculumandfrustratedwiththebureaucra- his deputy.Disappointedwithanoutdated,irrelevant the alcoholicprincipal,andtyrannicalattitudeof eccentricities ofothermembersthestaff,including girlfriend (later,wife)buthesoldieredondespitethe teacher-training collegewasdifficultforhimandhis lcrnc,Cadey Rigging Chandlery, Electronics, www.midatlanticyachtservices.com All sixbooksareavailablefrombookstoresor This volumeapart(and,bytheway,introduction The author’sloveforhismothercountryanditsmul- I thoroughlyenjoyed The Duppy PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL YACHT SERVICES EU-VAT (15%) Importation Bunkered Fuel(+10,000lt) for Trans-Atlantic Yachts FAX +351292391656 TEL +351292391616 [email protected] MID ATLANTIC The Lunatic Services &Repairs Services Providing allvital AZORES is relatedinthefirstpersonbyaman not not in theCaribbeanjustforsexand on theprowlforwhitewomen— because ofit.(Winkler’smother Dog War The Lunatic which isabouta hilarious, MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41

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The “bad guys” in the book are the rip-off record executives, and Sam Bergman, a journalist who is allowed com- The “bad guys” in the book are the rip-off record executives, circle plot how to establish their ideal city in their African After a mystical trip to Ethiopia, Joseph and his inner early days of the Rastafarian movement, their ritual drum- The real value of this book is in its descriptions of the Available from bookstores or from www.macmillan-caribbean.com. The Barrio Saigon concert was also very special. The people of the community made us very welcome. The maes- of Another activity nine cruisers participated in was tango lessons taught by a professor from the University or For anyone who wishes to join the group of culture vultures, just look in the newspapers, listen to the radio Many years ago, while living in Trinidad, a friend called me a “culture vulture”. His definition was someone who Many years ago, while living in Trinidad, a friend called me a “culture vulture”. His definition was someone In Venezuela I have sought out symphony performances in Margarita, Puerto La Cruz and Caracas. The state Confessions of a Culture Vulture plete access to Joseph and then betrays him. During a live concert to promote peace among Jamaica’s warring plete access to Joseph and then betrays him. During life, Marley, his wife Rita, and his manager were all shot political gangs, Joseph is shot and nearly killed. In real ripping open his shirt to show his wounds at the at his home just before the event, but Marley still performed, sheer drama and courage. end of his set. In this case real life trumped fiction for to say this well-meaning Rasta fable ends on a high note, homeland. Without giving away the ending, it is safe it’s also a bit flat and wobbly. even if, like a song from the recent Rising Stars’ competition, Joseph handles his increasingly complicated life. I would beating retreats to the country, and the grace with which attempt to show what a stand-up guy “Brother Bob” was. recommend this book for its Rasta vernacular and its that the former emperor of Ethiopia was the son of God. It doesn’t proselytize or attempt to convince the reader just But it does describe a period when an entire generation still felt that music could shake the world and a more society would be the result. one another. He advocated use of ganja to find wisdom. Like his brethren, Joseph believes that the deposed emper- one another. He advocated use of ganja to find wisdom. of Christ, as predicted in the Bible, and a source of black or Haile Selassie of Ethiopia was the second coming emigrate back to Ethiopia. Although the vast majority of pride. He also fervently believes that Rastas should spiritual “homeland”. Jamaican slaves were from West Africa, Ethiopia is their tro involved the children by having a few “conduct” the orchestra. He chose a program including classical music tro involved the children by having a few “conduct” the orchestra. He chose a program including classical to the and movie themes. Two dance schools performed with the orchestra, performing folk dances indigenous area. Later, the maestro told us that six children from that barrio are in the youth orchestra. of art. Tango in Buenos Aires, Argentina. The tango was taught in the Demetrio Demu Museum among the works make television, keep an open mind and offer your finds to others via the morning nets. Cruisers, you’ll find it will the places you visit much more interesting. the symphony there. In Puerto La Cruz we attended symphony concerts in MareMares marina, PDVSA Cultural the Salon and in the streets of Barrio Saigon. At the MareMares program of Strauss waltzes, the maestro invited audience to get up and dance. It was a magnificent evening.

sought out the cultural events: concerts, art shows, dance programs, and poetry or book readings. Well, that does sought out the cultural events: concerts, art shows, dance programs, and poetry or book readings. Well, that describe me! orchestras are very good and the concerts are free. In Margarita, Kyoko, from the sailboat

Reggae Fable Reggae A Rasta A MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 7HYBUILDONEMORE TOSERVEYOURNEEDS YACHTCARRIERSATYOURDISPOSAL )*-5)$%.s3/54(!-04/.s')"2!,4!2s-!,,/2#!s&/24,!5$%2$!,% 7ORLDWIDETAILORMADESERVICE HEADOFFICETEL sUSAREPRESENTATIVETEL ZBDIU!USBOTQPSU!PWFS!TFWFO!TFBT FAST RELIABLEANDSAFE WWWSEVENSTARNL 4ORTOLA"6) 'IBRALTAR-ALLORCA,A3PEZIA 4ORTOLA"6) 3OUTHAMPTON.ETHERLANDS 4ORTOLA"6) &ORT,AUDERDALE.EWPORT SAILINGSCHEDULE FORTHE#ARIBBEAN MAY MAY s#!2)""%!. and Dominica. back-to-back withthesecondfilm,“DeadMan’sChest”,atlocationsinSt.Vincent End”, opensincinemasonMay25th.Itwasputiceforayearafterbeingshot ly itwilltakeoverasacruiser’sfavouritefromthetiredandtrite“CaptainRon”. of asmallcountry.Atleastthewhirlpoolsavespollutingoceanwithdeadbodies. sage), canfighttheEastIndiaTradingCompanywhilebeingspuninawhirlpoolsize so theBrethrenofCoast,includingSaoFengfromSingapore(hemadeaquickpas- are stillpiratesaround. and SecurityNethasgiventheendingawaybecausetheykeeptellingusthatthere teamed upwithCutlerBecketttoridtheworldofpirates.UnfortunatelySafety eventually rescuehimonlytodiscover,horrorofhorrors,thatDavyJoneshas while Jack’svariedegosarelockedinbattleJones’Locker.Ourmerrycrew black betel-nutjuiceoffherteeth.Nexttheyarehurtledoveragiganticwaterfall sumably becausesheislustingafterWill.Perhapshecangethertocleanthe dead, reappearedtopickupthechallenge. voyage toWorld’sEndandCaptainBarbossa(GeoffreyRush),whotheythoughtwas rescue JackfromDavyJones’Locker.Theyneededacaptainpreparedtomakethe Dalma (NaomieHarris),avoodooenchantress,andshehadofferedthemwayto Elizabeth doesshouldhaveherowncommandandlovethemleavethem. which wayIwouldjump,butthenagainperhapsawomanwhohandlesswordlike long-time loveWillTurner(OrlandoBloom)andplaysainttohismartyr?Iknow Elizabeth (KeiraKnightly)aboardhisship,orisshegoingtoplayitsafeandwedher imagines abatteredalleycatdoes.Isthatgoingtobeenoughthoughlure filthy fingernails,managedtoexudesexappealinthelasttwofilmswayone MOVIE REVIEWBYJULIABARTLETT Prince Henrik andhisfamilychose SunsailTortolafor theirholiday.” Nic Parton,General Manager ofSunsail,said:“Wearedelighted andhonoredthat and newspapers. ing articleshelpingto promotetheBritishVirginIslandsforvarious Danishmagazines II. ThePrincewassailing withmembersofhisfamilyandajournalist whowillbewrit- ed PrinceHenrikConsort ofDenmark,husbandtheQueen ofDenmarkMargrethe Sunsail yachtchartersrecentlyhosteda group ofvisitorsfromDenmarkthatinclud- Sunsail BVIGetsDanishRoyalApproval For moreinformationvisitwww.portlouisgrenada.com. opment ofthiscountry,sothepeopleGrenada mustbeinvolvedinitssuccess.” will continuetohirecompetentGrenadians. Thisprojectisverymuchaboutthedevel- have triedasfarpossibletoemploytalented Grenadianstofillkeypositionsandwe appointment. “WeatSavvyGrenadaare happytohaveJunioronourteam.We investors andconstructorsbehindthePort Louisproject,warmlyendorsedthe Richard Hallam,HeadofDevelopmentand OperationsforSavvyGrenada,the Port Louisteamtoensurethatwebecome oneofthebestmarinasinworld.” est standardshereifwearetogettheworld’sbestyachts.Iintendworkwith tant oneinthedevelopmentofPortLouisMarina.Wehavetomaintainhigh- Speaking abouthisappointment,hesaid:“ThejobofHarbourMasterisaveryimpor- Junior Cuffiehasworkedintheyachtingindustryforfiveyearsandisanavidsailor. marine rulesandregulations,thatalldockstaffareadequatelytrained. law enforcementofficialstoensurethatalllawsareobserved,boatersobserve docks arekeptsafeandsecure,thatslipsrented.Cuffiewillalsoworkwith ensure —asfarisreasonablypossiblethatallboatsintheMarinaand bility fortheday-to-dayoperationsofMarinadocks.Hewillalsobeexpected to Grenada hasrecentlyappointedJuniorCuffieastheHarbourMaster,withresponsi- arrival ofsometheworld'smostprestigiousmega-yachts.Tothisend,PortLouis development, ismakingsteadyprogressinpreparingthePortLouisMarinafor Port Louis,Grenada’sambitiousEC$1.5billionmarinaresort,spaandmaritimevillage New GrenadianHarbourMasterforPortLouisMarina frompage7…BusinessBriefs —Continued ‘At World’sEnd’ The latestandthelastof“ThePiratesCaribbean”filmseries,“AtWorld’s However youlookatit,thistrilogyissettobecomeacinemaclassicandhopeful- It seemstobeatraditionattheendofthissorttrilogyhavebigbattlescene, In thenewfilm,TiaDalmaaccompaniesthemastheycrossafrozensea,pre- At thecloseof“DeadMan’sChest”ourbedraggledheroeshadshelteredwithTia Johnny Deppstarsasthesleazy,campyCap’nJackSparrow,who,despitehis MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 in Apartment ✽ Planet Paradise & Marine Centre PADI Dive Shop Millenium Connection Barefoot Yacht Charters ✽ Raymarine Electronics ✽ ASA Sailing School Arch H Reid & Co Ltd, Harmony Hall, Arch H Reid & Co Ltd, Harmony Color, Solana’s Local Tamarind Beach Hotel Salt Whistle Bay Resort Gallerie Tourquoise, SV Scaramouche Imagine, ArtFabrik, Boat & Harbours, Fidel Productions Restaurant, Bar, dinghy dock ✽ E-mail: [email protected] Spare parts ordering & dodger repairs at great prices http://www.barefootyachts.com ✽ St. Vincent - professional sail, bimini St. Vincent’s Best Full Service Tel: (784) 456-9526 Fax: (784) 456-9238 Bareboat & Crewed Charters Internet Café - Fax and weather service Facility for Visiting Yachtsmen Facility for Visiting Surfshop - Watersports Centre - Boutique Presents, Tikal, IslandWaterWorld Island Art of The Yoda Guy, Pineapple Beach, Island Art of The Yoda Guy, Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent & the Grenadines ✽ Doyle Barefoot - the only sail repair loft ✽ Grenada: Carriacou: St. Martin/St. Maarten: Antigua: Canouan: Mayreau: Union: Petite Martinique: Allegro Resort, Rhythms of Blues, The Gallery Boutique Allegro Resort, Rhythms of Blues, Bequia: , by Nancy and Simon Scott, , by Nancy and And as the ads on TV say, “But wait; there’s more!” This comprehensive little tome will be of great use to Both books are available at bookstores and chandler- The authors have set themselves a big task: to have set themselves a big The authors The 2007 - 2008 Cruising Guide to the Virgin 2008 Cruising Guide to The 2007 - A free color planning chart of the Virgin Islands from Virgin Gorda to St. Thomas is included with each book, and regular Virgin Islands information updates are available at www.cruisingguides.com. both the novice bareboater (bravo for the anchoring instructions on page 58!) and the curmudgeonly old salt (who will want to know where to avoid as much as where to go) when visiting the Virgin Islands. ies or from www.cruisingguides.com. ©2006. Cruising Guide Publications. Soft cover, spiral Guide Publications. Soft ©2006. Cruising sketch charts color photos and bound, 344 pages, 0-944428-75-4. US$29.95. throughout. ISBN divers and guide for yachtsmen, write “a complete the busiest enthusiasts” in one of watersports fact that this areas in the world. The marine-tourism span testi- 13th edition over a 25-year book is in its it. Navigational fies to their success in accomplishing is augmented with abun- and anchoring information and aerial pho- dant sketch charts, GPS coordinates your anchorage you are tographs. Once you get to sightseeing highlights, steered to marine facilities, art galleries, shops, dive sites, live music venues, Advertising is included, restaurants and more. utility. An Island adding to the guide’s overall telephone, fax, e-mail and Directory section provides a variety of businesses. website information for real estate, if you decide There’s even a chapter on it’s time to swallow the anchor. Islands, 13th Edition Islands, 13th , by Bruce provides sailing directions for easi-

‘Passages South’ According to Van Sant, the first principles of cruising A big ocean-racing yacht fully crewed by gung-ho

The Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South: The Guide to Passages The Gentleman’s TIME-TESTED ADVICE TIME-TESTED are safety, comfort and pleasure. With some 70,000 sea miles and nearly 30 years of experience sailing to, from and within the Caribbean, Van Sant has figured out how to make island-hopping safe, comfortable and pleasurable — in his word, thornless — and shares his time-tested methods clearly and concisely. Understanding tropical weather and weather reports, the effect of islands on the behavior of the tradewinds, knowing when to sail at night and strategic route planning are some of the key components of a thornless passage that Van Sant knowledgeably discusses. 20-year-olds might not mind bashing to weather for days and nights on end. But Van Sant recognizes that there is a major cruising demographic, including “undermanned small boats with sexagenarians at the helm”, who prefer not to push the risk and comfort curves. If this sounds like you, Van Sant will be a good friend and mentor. er windward passage-making from Florida to Venezuela; charts and cruising data for the Bahamas, Turks & Caicos and Haiti; and cruising guides for the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico and the Spanish Virgin Islands. The sketch charts, navigation information and cruising data for the Bahamas, Turks & Caicos and Haiti have been completely updated, and new shore-side maps and information for the Dominican Republic have been included. Sailing directions are given for trawler yachts as well as sailboats. Van Sant, ©2006. Cruising Guide Publications. Soft Cruising Guide Publications. Van Sant, ©2006. photos 330 pages, black-and-white cover, spiral bound, US$29.95. ISBN 0-944428-79-7. and sketch charts. Thornless Path to Windward, 9th Edition Thornless Path MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 fresh istoplaceitinacupofwater,uncovered,therefrigerator. put inaplasticbagbeforestoringthefridge.Anothermethodofkeepingthisherb from salsasandsaladstoburritosmeatdishes. curries, andchutneys.InMexicoCentralAmericaitisusedindishesranging only onemilligramofvitaminC. has onlyfourcalories,withvirtuallynofat,fiber,cholesterolorcarbohydrates,and Morocco andRomaniapresentlyarethemainproducersofcorianderseeds. a commonremedyforgaspainsandarechewedtoeasetheofbirthlabor. when crushed,flavorliquor,meats,chewinggumandevencigarettes.Theseedsare to beanaphrodisiac.Ifalargequantityiseaten,itactsasnarcotic.Theseeds, dhania spelled “shadowbenny”or“chadobene”.TheEastIndianwordforthisgreenleafis the spellingcorrect.Likeme,youprobablythoughtthisfavoritekitchenherbwas it saidemphatically“Pesto!” unusual, butdefinitelycookable.Immediatelythearomamademymouthwateras dor tookthetimetocrumbleapieceofthisgreenleaf.Thepungentsmellwas ket isanexperiencetoremember.Isawmanyunusualvegetablesandspices.Aven- leaves inthemainmarketPortofSpain,Trinidad.Shoppingatbigcitymar- dors andwonderedwhattheywereorhowtasted?Ifirstencounteredthese Chadon kings inahighlyspiceddrink(called The RomansbroughttheflavorfulgreentoEngland,whereitwasservedbyTudor ancient Egypt,itwaswidelycultivatedforitsseeds,whichweremixedintobread. tries. TheIsraeliteschoseitasoneofthebitterherbseatenatPassover.In of itsuniqueflavorithasbeencultivatedforthousandsyearsandinmanycoun- vor. Trinidadgrowsthemostpotentvarietyinworld. — leaves,seedsandrootsisedible.Theolderplantsusuallyhavethestrongerfla- koros names forthesameplant.Theseeds’name,coriander,comesfromGreekword The leavesandtheseedshavetwodistinctlydifferenttastes,hence or theseedsalone.Theleavesarecalledchadonbenebysome,cilantroothers. rot familyandismorecommonlyknownascilantro,Chineseparsleyorcoriander. plants inTrinidadandthroughouttheworld.Chadonbeneisactuallypartofcar- 1 quartcreamormilk 1 quartwater 1 Cupoysterjuice(waterpouredofffreshoysters) 1/2 Cupchoppedchives 1/4 poundbutter 1 Cupwhitewine Chadon BeneOysterStew Mince alltogetherinablenderandstorebottle.Addtoalmostanycookeddish. 1/4 Cupvinegar 2 leavesSpanishthyme 1 full-grownstalkcelery 1 headgarlic Twelve leaveschadonbene Shirley’s GreenSauce Fresh chadonbenewillkeepextremelywellifwrappedinpapertowelsandthen In Trinidad,chadonbeneleavesareusedinseasoningpickles,barbecuesauce, Other thantaste,chadonbenehasslightfoodvalue.AquarterCupoftheleaves Throughout theworld,chadonbene/corianderisregardedasadrug.Itthought The vendorsaiditwascalledchadonbene.Ittookmeawhiletogetthenameand Have youseenthesmallbundlesofdarkgreenleavessoldbysomevegetableven- Scientists believechadonbenewasfirstnativetoMediterraneanEurope.Because Is chadonbeneaspiceoranherb?Specifically,“coriander”namestheentireplant, However yousayorspellthenameofthisgreat-tastingleaf,itisonemostused Bougainvilla Bene , whichmeans“bugs”,becausetheythoughtitsmelledbuggy!Theentireplant . Trinidadiansmightcallit bandhania Union Island hippocras . ) thatwasservedatweddings. SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL [email protected] Res: VHF16,Tel: (784)4588878 Palm Island,Mopion Day Charter,Mayreau,Tobago Cays, Wind andSea [email protected] Res: VHF16,Tel:(784)4588878 (Blocks &Cubes),Bakery(Frenchbread) Water Station,Dockage,Watertaxi, Ice The Dock [email protected] Res: VHF16,Tel:(784)4588311 and itsGiantAquarium Apr), Bar,Pizzeria,Pool,TableGames Seafood specialties,Livelobsters(Septto Seaquarium Restaurant&Bar Bougainvilla@vincysurf .com Tel: (784)4588316 Bathing suits,Furnitureandmore… Souvenirs, Craft,TeeShirts,Pareos, Okaou Boutique variation, addavarietyofgardenvegetablestoyourtaste. the soupandcookforfiveminutes.Serveinbowlswithcookedrice.Servessix.For as youblendinthechadonbene.Addsaltandpeppertotaste.oysters and lightlycookthechives.Addoysterjuice,watercream(ormilk);simmer pasta, riceorgrilledvegetables. overnight. Whilegrilling,keepapplyingthissauce.Youcanalsousesauceover ents andblend.Itisbesttomarinatechicken,lamb,fishorporkinthissauce garlic intoafoodprocessor,blender,orwhiskbyhand.Addtheremainingingredi- with scissorsandtheplantwillcontinueproducing. from themarket.Plantrootsinwetsoilandkeepwet.Youcantrimleaves full sun.Theeasiestwaytogetchadonbenegrowingiscuttherootfromstalks into hotpastaandserve. smooth. AddtheParmesan,almonds,oilsandsaltpureetoasmoothpaste. Stir Boil wineinalargefryingpanuntilonlyabout2Tablespoonsremain.Addbutter Cooked rice 4 dozenlargefreshoysters(usemoreifsmall) Salt andpeppertotaste 1/2 Cupchadonbene 1/2 Cupofanyonethefollowing:pinenuts,friedpepperoni,choppedolives, 4 clovesofgarlic 1/4 teaspoonsalt 1/4 Cupoliveoil 1/2 Cupalmonds 1/4 Cupvegetableoil 1/2 CupgratedParmesancheese 1/2 Cupparsley 1 Cupchadonbeneleaves Chadon Pesto Wrap garlicinfoilandbake400°Fovenfor45minutes.Coolsqueezethe Salt andpeppertotaste 2 Tablespoonsoliveoil 1/2 Cuplemonjuice 1 Cupparsley 3 Cupschadonbene 2 headsgarlic Chadon BeneBarbecueSauce Chadon beneisahardyplanteasilygrowninsmallpotsonanyboat,especially BOAT GROWN Puree thechadonbene,garlicandparsleyinablenderorfoodprocessoruntil chopped mushrooms MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45

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us 6 t 1 c JYA at SIM Boatyard, Prickly Bay, Grenada JYA at SIM Boatyard, Prickly Bay, ta on C welcome! OR EMAIL: OR EMAIL: OR For more information, visit: visit: visit: For more information, For more information, OR EMAIL: OR EMAIL: OR For more information, visit: visit: visit: For more information, For more information, www.boglesroundhouse.com [email protected] [email protected] VHF: ch Opposite the Market Opposite • Tel/Fax Office: • Tel/Fax 473-439-4913 • Cell: • @: [email protected] Manager Jean-Yves Rouseré 473-409-2264 Wir sprechen Deutsch sprechen Wir Credit Cards Colocasi might be true about (which your vendor isn’t —Continued on next page think

Take a look at this picture of Take a look at this picture The identifying characteristic of ed that I’m just going to tell you ed that I’m just going to what I one kind of root, the one most one kind of root, the one already often called taro. (We’ve we’ll done an article on yucca and do one on yams soon.) market taro. Now if you go to a looks and pick up an object that not be exactly like this, it might ven- called taro at all. Talk to the you’re dor and she could tell you holding a cocoyam, dasheen, malanga, yautia, yam or eddoe. And that’s only if your vendor is speaking mostly English. All bets are off as to what other names she might use in Dutch, French or Spanish — and it’s sure to be something different when you change countries or even islands. If we use the Latin name, escuentla apt to know), we’ve narrowed it down to only two hundred or so varieties — but we won’t let that little detail bother us. (Some varieties of taro are grown strictly as ornamentals, however, and these are NOT edible. We just have to trust that our market vendors do not go around digging up their neighbor’s landscaping.) For agreement’s sake, let’s all call this root “taro” and go from there. Just remember that if you find a recipe that calls for one of those other names, you can use it just the same. the root you’re looking for is pink-

HECKROTTE

— one of those ethnic dishes that seems to require by Mary Heckrotte

poi TARO? WHACHA GONNA DO WITH ALL THAT… WITH DO GONNA WHACHA Meander about any Caribbean market and you’ll surely find your roots. In fact, you’ll surely find your any Caribbean market and Meander about (a.k.a. cassava) and taro. Collectively, they’re just The main ones are yams, yucca Before it is dug from the ground and brought to market, taro root sports huge, Before it is dug from the ground and brought to market, The whole taro plant is one of the most important in all the tropics and has been To prepare the root for cooking, wash it, brush it, and then peel it. Raw taro is you’ll see a mind-boggling assortment of roots and tubers — some round, some roots and tubers — some assortment of you’ll see a mind-boggling diet. You could- all staples in the island some rough — that are long, some fuzzy, for a centuries-old Caribbean tradition. Hiding n’t find vegetables more suited will still be here after droughts and even hurri- under the ground, these vegetables canes have passed. and if you try to get any more specific than called “roots” or “ground provisions”, I’ve been asking and reading about these roots that, you’re sure to get confused. more I learn, the more befuddled I get. So I’ve decid- and tubers for years, and the heart-shaped green leaves, frequently called elephant ears because that’s about the heart-shaped green leaves, frequently called elephant of them where you’re buying size and shape of them. There is likely to be a stack the taro roots and the market vendor might call them dasheen. When eaten raw, these leaves will make your mouth burn and itch and your throat feel like it has permanently closed for business. Taro, especially the leaves, contains an insoluble crystal called calcium oxalate. Fortunately, cooking leaches out these crystals. The cooked leaves taste a lot like spinach, mustard or turnip greens. They are the base for callaloo, the traditional Caribbean soup famous especially in Trinidad. Indeed, some market vendors will just call the leaves callaloo. cultivated for so long that its origination is unknown. One of the most traditional foods of the South Pacific is ish-white flesh with a ring of color at its base. The root ranges from finger-banana- ish-white flesh with a ring of color at its base. The root and will have a hairy brown size to big-cucumber-size. It is somewhat pear-shaped at one end and shaggy skin with horizontal rings. It will have sort of a top-knot When you cut open a taro rootlets at the other end — unless it has been trimmed. like a jicama or water root, you’ll find the inside smooth, with a texture something speckled, depending on the chestnut. It might be white, slightly grayish, or even heavy for their size, and variety. You’ll want to choose roots that are rock-hard, with your fingernail and test without soft or moldy spots or cracks. Prick the skin Back at the boat, store your the flesh for freshness; it should be juicy and crisp. use them within a few days. taro in a cool (yeah, right!), well-ventilated place and quite harsh on your hands so it is best to wear gloves, or oil your hands first. (If your hands come in contact enough to cause skin irritation, rinse them several times in a solution of baking soda or salt dissolved in cold water. Afterwards, apply an anti-itch cream.) Cut the roots into the desired size or prick them with a fork if cooking whole. Put the root in a pot with plenty of water and boil until the center is soft — about 40 to 90 minutes, depending on the size. To help rid the root of the calcium oxalate and reduce the chance of irritation to the mouth, change the water several times. When cooked, rinse the roots under cold running water until they are just cool enough to handle. If you boiled the roots with the peels on, you can now easily remove them. an acquired taste to appreciate. Poi is made from cooked, pounded then fermented taro. And in China, there are written records of this dish from as early as the Han Dynasty. In fact, the name dasheen is thought to have come from “de Chine.” Additionally, across Africa and all over the Caribbean Basin and surrounding Central and South American countries, taro is an everyday food. Now Europeans and North Americans are catching on, too. MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 • gasstation • tel+fax+internet • water/ice/laundry • deepwaterstern-toberth gas station:(+)596661730 POINTE DUBOUT, MARTINIQUE RESTAURANT e-mail: [email protected] Open 7/7VHF:16/68 CUSTOMS CLEARANCE Tel: (+)596660545 DOCK, BAR 14˚33N -61˚03W & nuttier “potatochip.” treat, sprinklethechipswithalittlecinnamon-sugar.Tarorootmakesharderand Drain onpapertowelsandaddsalt,seasonedand/orchilipowder.Forasweet longer. Frythechipsindeephotoilovermedium-highheatuntilgoldenbrown. Alternatively, youcanpeelandslicetherawtarorootsimplycookchips minutes. Drain.Chillforafewhours.Peelthensliceverythinlyonmandolin. for about30minutesoruntilthetopisgolden.Makes4servings. dish. Beattogethertheeggsandcheesepouroverleaves.Bakeat350°F utes. Stirinpreparedmustardandthenputthismixtureagreasedcasserole ley untiltransparent.Addpreparedtaroleaves,saltandpepper.Stir5to10min- on papertowels.Servehot.Makes4servings. in askilletovermedium-highheatandfrypattiesuntilbrownedoneachside.Drain flesh. Mixwithmintleaves,cumin,egg,andmango.Makeintolittlecakes.Heatoil are forktender.Drainandcooljustenoughtosqueezethepeelsoffgrate Makes 4servings. towels. Servehotasasidedishormakesandwichwithhamburger“fixings.” skillet overmediumheatandbrownthepattiesoneachside.Drainpaper per, andflour.Stirwell,thenshapeintoburger-sizepatties.Putoliveoilina sistency ofmashedpotatoes.Addonion,jalapeño,parsley,egg,saltandpep- your roots. the otherroots,suchasyamsorcassava.See?Lifeiseasywhenyougetbackto she mostlikelyknowsitbyanothername.Ifyoucan’tfindtaro,justuseoneof many recipestotry.Andifthemarketladyisconfusedwhenyouaskfortaroroot, roots asasubstituteforpotatoesandtheleavesinsteadofspinach,you’llfind leaves towrapfishforbaking—itimpartsadeliciousflavor. — andviceversa,ofcourse.Youcanalsousetaroleavesasasubstituteforbanana cold water,bakingsodaandsalt. irritation tothemouth.Ifso,rinseyourmouthseveraltimeswithamixtureof your mouthcausedbythecalciumoxalate.Somepeoplemaystillnoteabitof recipe states,andcookthemforatleast45minutestoavoidtheirritation water toremoveanygrit.Choptheleavesintobite-sizepieces,orasyour the leaftipsanddiscard.Washleavesbysubmergingthemcompletelyin ready tousethem;they’llkeepafewdays.Stripoffthestemsandpinch cooked. Storetheleavesinaperforatedbagyourrefrigeratoruntilyouare est oneswillbesmaller.You’llneedapoundofleavestomakeCupfullwhen sive. Theleavesareoneandahalftotwofeetlong,thoughtheyoung,tender- the mostcommon,andsomewithpurplestems,usuallyalittlemoreexpen- cially nicewitharichcreamsauce. and groundintoflour,butitdefinitelymustbecooked.Likepotatoes,taroisespe- stews, becomingcustard-likeasitcooks.Itcanberoasted,pureed,fried,ordried turns ratherrubberywhenitiscold.Taroservesasanaturalthickenerinsoupsand stitute itforpotatoesinmostrecipes,butalwaysusehot,becausethetexture mostly likeapotatoandissometimescalledthe“potatooftropics”.Youcansub- rheumatoid arthritis. which shouldbeavoidedaltogetherbypeoplewhohavekidneyproblems,gout,or root isanespeciallygoodsourceoffiber.Evenwhencooked,bothcontainoxalicacid frompreviouspage —Continued 1 Cupunsweetened coconut cream(notCocoLopez!) 1/4 Cupcoldwater 3 teaspoonscornstarch Freshly groundblack peppertotaste 1 1/2Cupswater 2 chickenbouilloncubes 2 Tablespoonsmincedfreshgingerroot 3 clovesofgarlic,minced 2 onions,chopped 1 1/2poundsskinnedchickenpieces(thighs, legs,breasts) 2 Tablespoonsoliveoil 1 1/2poundstaroleaves,washed,stems removed,chopped Chicken withTaroLeaves Prick wholetarorootswithaforkandblanchinsalted,boilingwaterforjustfew Taro Chips(withvariations) Heat butteroroliveoilinaskilletovermediumheat.Sautégreenonionandpars- 1/2 Cupgratedcheddarorgruyèrecheese 2 eggs,beaten 1/2 teaspoonpreparedmustard Salt andfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste 1 poundtaroleaves,washed,drained,stemmed,chopped 2 Tablespoonsmincedparsley 2 greenonions,slicedthinly 2 to3Tablespoonsbutteroroliveoil Baked TaroLeafCasserole In alargepot,boilthetarorootsintheirskinforabout40minutesoruntilthey 2 Tablespoonsoliveoil 1 firmripemango,chopped 1 egg,beaten 1 Tablespooncumin 2 Tablespoonsmintleaves,minced 1 poundtaroroots Caribbean TaroPatties In amediummixingbowl,mixhottaropuréewithbutterandmilktothecon- 2 Tablespoonsoliveoil 1/2 Cupfinedrybreadcrumbs 1/2 Cupflour Salt andfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste 1 egg,beaten 3 Tablespoonsparsley,minced 1 jalapeñopepper,seeded,minced 1 onion,minced 1/2 Cupmilk(approximately) 1 Tablespoonbutter 1 poundtaroroot,peeled,boiled,puréedandkepthot Taro Burgers The goodnewsaboutbothtarorootandleavesistheirversatility.Usingthe You cansubstitutecookedtaroleavesformanyrecipescallingspinach Two kindsoftaroleavesmaketheirwaytomarket,somewithgreenstems, The tarorootisquitestarchyandhasanearthy,chestnut-likeflavor.Itused Both tarorootandleavesarearichsourceofvitaminsmineralsthe —Continued onnextpage —Continued MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 ’87 $ 59K ’01 $690K ’00 $ 75K $115,000 Super maintained! Lowest on Market! 44' 1977 CSY Immaculate condition! POWER MULTIHULLS New Rigging, Genset, new AP, 40’Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 3cab/2hd40’Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, In St Vincent38’ Hunter 380, 3cab/1hd, 2cab/1hd, Motivated37’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cab/2hd, 37’ Beneteau Idylle, ’00 $119K ’99 ’00 $ 89K $112K ACANCIES! Sail Power 36’ Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 2cab/1hd36’ Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 2cab 1 owner since new!36’ Hunter Vision 36, ’92 Great condition35’ O’Day, 2cab/1hd, $ 59K Bahia 4cab/4hd46’ Fountaine Pajot 45’ Prout Catamarans, 2 cab Never chartered! ’99 ’9544’ Voyage Norseman 440 4cab/4hd $ 70K 42’ Lagoon, 4cab/2hd, Extensive upgrades $260K ’8742’ Solaris Cat, 4cab/4hd, in Rio Dulce $ 45K 40’ Fountaine Pajot Lavezzi, Owner’s Version ’92 ’03 38’ Fount.Pajot Athena, 4cab/2hd $269K ’01 $295K 37’ Heavenly Twins, 2cab/2hd $370K ’02 ’8656’ Horizon Motor yacht, $360K $119K ’99 $159K ’92 $59K 37’ CSY 37 Cutter, 2cab/2hd Good upgrades37’ CSY 37 Cutter, 2cab/2hd Solid cruiser!36’ Tiburon, 1cab/1hd ’782cab/1hd, 36’ Beneteau M362, $ 45K ’76 $ 47K 50’ Hatteras Sportfisherman, 3 cab/2 head48’ Horizon 48 Motor Yacht, 3 cab/3 head42’ Nova Marine Trawler, Sundeck trawler ’8142’ Hershine 42, Motor yacht 4 cab/4 head36’ Heritage East 36 2cab/2hd, 2 avail from $295K ‘0035’ Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/1 head ’98 $310K ’8927’ Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab ’01 $249K $ 99K $187K ’01 $129K ’06 $ 99K ’86 $349K ’79 $135K ’81 69K $ ’01’97 $129K $142K [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 www.stthomasyachts.com Many upgrades Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia, St Vincent Well maintained! [email protected] Recent upgrades! SAIL Performance Cruiser Luxurious&spacious P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across TradeWinds six destinations in the Caribbean. company, are the fastest growing charter We all inclusive, 7 days. TERM CHARTERS, operating $145,000 or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194, Port Elizabeth, 194, Port Elizabeth, or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box email: [email protected] CREW V website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats website: www.bviyachtsales.com Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 St Maarten +599 Tel. +784 457 3407 St Vincent Tel. Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 email: [email protected] Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 50' '90 Morgan Catalina, ST. THOMAS YACHT THOMAS ST. SALES 3 strm, new eng, chain plates Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale 34' '89 Pacific Seacraft43' '84 Young Sun PH44' '82 Ta Chiao CT Bluewater cruiser in great condition50' '90 Morgan Catalina, Inside steering, AC, AP, new eng. $ 95,000 3 strm, new eng, chain plates $119,000 Canoe Stern, Perkins 4-108 30' '68 Fjord Diplomat,35' '88 Luhrs Alura $105,000 $145,000 42' '81 Post Sportfish All around weekender, twin gas,48' '89 Hi Star Trawler Twin DD's, very good condition Sleeps 4, twin Crusaders, fish or cruise $ 56,000 Sundeck, 3 strms, 375HP Cats $174,900 $ 27,000 $125,000 We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. are looking for crew, We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. We and teamwork between The nature of the job is such that the better understanding will be. Captain and Chef the more successful your charters Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. is a plus. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef onsite in the Caribbean. full training offer We are willing to work hard and This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you job. have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. send your CV to us, please If you would like more information about this job or use this email address: 60’ Paloma Cust. Pilothouse CC, 5 cab/2hd60’ Paloma Cust. Pilothouse 54’ Gulfstar 54, 3cab/2hd, ’70 $119K HECKROTTE 52’ Jeanneau Su Ody, 3cab/3hd Loaded!52’ Jeanneau Su Ody, CC, 3 cab/3hd51’ Formosa Cust. Ketch CC 2cab/2hd47’ Vagabond Ketch Immaculate!46’ Kelly Peterson, 2cab/2hd, ’03 2cab/2hd, 46’ Formosa Peterson, $405K ’80 ’83 2hd 2 avail. from46’ Hunter 460, 3cab/ $199K 2cab/2hd World cruiser!45’ Bombay Explorer, $199K ’782cab/2hd, In great shape!44’ Beneteau 44CC, $ 65K ’94 Reduced – Motivated!44’ CSY 44 2cab/2hd, ’87 Great condition!44’ CSY Walkover, 2cab/2hd, $189K ’79 ’77 43’ Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 4cab/2hd ’00 $269K $165K $ 85K 43’ Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 4cab/2hd $149K 43’ Mason, 2cab/1hd, World Cruiser!43’ Serendipity, 2cab/1hd, ’0143’ Nautor Swan, 2cab/1hd, Great price ’00 $175K 42’ Dufour Gibsea, 2 cab/2 hd, $165K ’8142’ Jeanneau CC 2 cab/2 hd, $119K 42’ Beneteau 42 CC 2cab/2hd Reduced! ’7042’ J Boat J/130, 2cab/1hd, Fully equipped!42’ Hunter, 2cab/2hd, New Listing $ 79K 41’ Morgan 416, Ketch, 2cab/2hd ’9341’ Formosa 41, Ketch, 2cab/1hd ’03 $199K 40’ Island Packet, 2cab/2 hd, New Listing $159K 40’ Beneteau M405, 3cab/2hd, Loaded!40’ Bayfield, 2cab/2 hd, New Listing!40’ O’Day, 2 cab/1 hd, Comfortable cruiser! ’9840’ Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, New Listing ’03 $219K ’86 ’95 $199K ’83 $ 59K $119K ’77 $ 78K ’84 ’95 $59K $110K $139K ) ) ) Recipe adapted from Naparima Girls’ High School Diamond Jubilee Cookbook Recipe adapted from Naparima Recipe adapted from Naparima Girls’ High School Diamond Jubilee Cookbook Recipe adapted from Naparima Girls’ High School Diamond Recipe adapted from Naparima Girls’ High School Diamond Jubilee Cookbook Recipe adapted from Naparima Girls’ High School Diamond Trinidad Callaloo ( 12 taro leaves, washed, stemmed, chopped 12 taro leaves, washed, stemmed, 1/4 pound ham bone then drained 1/4 pound salt pork, soaked 2 Cups coconut milk 1 green pepper, chopped 2 live blue crabs 8 okras, sliced in rounds 2 sprigs thyme 1 onion, chopped 4 chives, chopped 1 Cup boiling water 1 Tablespoon butter the butter into a large saucepot. Bring to boil over Put all the ingredients except Cream of Taro Root Soup into 1-inch cubes 4 Cups peeled taro root cut 4 stalks celery, sliced 3 medium onions, chopped 3 medium carrots, diced 4 chicken bouillon cubes Freshly ground black pepper to taste 3 Cups water 1 (13.5 ounces) can evaporated milk 30 minutes, changing water In a large soup pot, cook taro root in boiling water for Taro Loaf ( 3 Tablespoons flour 3 Tablespoons butter 1 Cup milk 1 1/2 Cup cheese, grated 1 pound ground beef 1 onion, chopped 1 blade chives, chopped 2 Tablespoons catsup tender 1 pound taro leaves, stemmed, chopped, cooked until 2 Tablespoons butter sauce by melting butter In a small saucepan over medium heat, make a cheese until beef is browned. Stir In a skillet, sauté ground beef with onions and chives Taro Root with Cream Sauce ( 1 pound taro root 4 Tablespoons butter, divided 2 Tablespoons flour 1 Cup milk 1 onion, minced few drops of lime juice dash of Angostura Bitters Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Prick unpeeled taro roots with a fork and boil in a large saucepan with water to cover In the meantime, in a small saucepan make a thin white sauce by melting 2 Taro and Coconut Cake 2 Cups hot taro purée 1/4 Cup melted butter 2 eggs, beaten 1 Cup grated coconut 1/2 Cup sugar 1 Cup milk 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon vanilla Whipped topping Mix hot taro purée and butter. Stir in eggs, coconut, and sugar. Mix well. Add nut- —Continued page from previous of salt- large, heavy pot leaves in a Boil taro in a minutes. Drain for 30 to 40 ed water oil in Heat olive and set aside. colander Brown high heat. over medium same pot remove all sides, then pieces on chicken and set aside. In the same them to a plate the garlic, and ginger in pot, sauté onion, and the chicken to the pot hot oil. Return cubes, water and pepper. add bouillon to low. Cover pot and simmer Reduce heat and simmer Add prepared taro leaves or until chicken is tender. about 20 minutes Stir into pot into 1/4 Cup cold water. 15 minutes. Mix cornstarch for an additional Serve with rice. cream and heat through. thickened. Stir in coconut until slightly servings. Makes 4 to 6 high heat, then reduce heat to simmer until all ingredients are tender, about 20 to to simmer until all ingredients are tender, about 20 high heat, then reduce heat and serve hot with rice. Makes 4 servings. 30 minutes. Stir in the butter carrots, bouillon cubes, at least once. Drain and return to pot. Add celery, onions, cover, and simmer until all pepper, and 3 Cups water. Bring to boil, reduce heat, heat through but do not boil. vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Add milk and Serve hot. Makes 4 servings. then stirring in flour. Stir in milk and continue to stir until mixture thickens. Stir then stirring in flour. Stir in milk and continue to stir melts. in cheese, remove from heat, and set aside while cheese sauce. Spray bottom and in catsup. Set aside. Stir prepared taro leaves into cheese a layer of cheese mixture then sides of a casserole dish with non-stick spray. Put in Dot top of casserole with but- a layer of meat. Continue layers, ending with cheese. servings. ter and bake at 350°F for 30 minutes. Slice. Makes 4 until fork tender, about 30 to 40 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water until just cool enough to handle. Squeeze out the pulp. Put in a serving dish and mash with a fork. Tablespoons butter, stirring in flour, then adding milk. Stir sauce until thickened, then set aside. In a small skillet over medium heat, melt 2 Tablespoons butter and sauté onion until transparent. Add lime juice, salt and pepper and cook for 2 minutes. Add bitters and white sauce. Pour over mashed taro. Makes 4 servings. meg, cinnamon, and vanilla. Beat with an electric mixer on high for 1 minute. Pour into a buttered 8-inch cake pan and bake in preheated oven at 350°F for 45 to 60 minutes or until cake is firm in the middle. Cool in pan on a rack. Serve with whipped topping. Makes 9 servings. MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 For Reservations: For Reservations:

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tel: 440-2310 Dear topic directlytoyachtingorinlandtravelbyvisitors. Venezuelan politicsclosed,unlesstheletterrelatesthat Mr. Gomez’scomments.Wenowconsiderthetopicof solved inthegasexplosion). (though ithasto be saidtheexitpartmight wiring, equipment failure,oragasexplosion is alwaysthedanger ofafirecausedbyelectrical but notleaveyoua whole lotoftimetovacate.There were a knifed intoyachtsathighspeed,which (unlessyou sleeper. Drunksonspeedboatshave occasionally variety reasons,withverylittlewarning tothedeep boats thathavesunkonadockorat anchorfora might wonder?Well,Ihaveknownof quiteafew your emergencyexit.Whatkindofemergency, you are defendingagainstassaultislikely toalsobe vent unauthorizedentry. night. Thiswouldallowairtoenterthe boat butpre- steel tubingtoreplacethecompanionwaydoorsat selves secure. many cruisersareconsideringhowtomakethem- Security” intheMarchissueof Venezuela Puerto LaCruz Peter Phillips Robolucion Autopista! along, it’syourcall.ItisknownhereastheLaBonita order. Well,matey,ifthatistheroadyouwanttowalk you seepovertyandthedisintegrationoflaw around: whatdoyousee,aboomingeconomy?No, logical thoughtsandareeasilysacrificed.Look citizens arejustpawnsinaworldchessgameofideo- tion inwhich70percentofthepopulationlives.The Dear a pression ofhumanrights. Old World,withcorruption,dictatorship,andthesup- study historyinschool:itisjustamake-overofthe ly correct.Unfortunately,itappearsthathedidnot statement “aNewWorldisemerging”hereabsolute- are nowbeingforcedupontheVenezuelanpeople. only oneemploysthesamedraconianmeasuresthat an acceptanceleveloflessthan17percent.)Ofthose, sided toacertainextentwithyou-know-who.(That’s nations inLatinAmerica,onlythreeofwhichhave to beTHEjokeofthecentury.Thereare18other “highly regardedthroughouttherestofworld”has point ofview. gy whenyourheroinsultsanynationthatopposeshis so therehastobesomethingwrongwithyourideolo- close. TheUSisVenezuela’slargesttradingpartner, and TVchannelshereinVenezuelaarebeingforcedto cratic explanationastowhypresspublications,radio, safe.” SurelyMr.Gomez,thatcannotbeyourdemo- When thepressisfreeandeverymancanread,all will be.Thepeoplecannotbesafewithoutinformation. ignorant andfree,itexpectswhatneverwas Thomas Jeffersononcesaid,“Ifanationexpectstobe comments concerningyourhero;itisself-generated. spot on. their experiences,andappraisalofVenezuelais onboard. Theytravelextensivelyinland,writingabout not theirboat,andtheydospendalltime while claimingthatVenezuelaisa“moderndemocracy”. Compass There are also freakaccidents. Amanwasasleep In doingthis,however,remembertheentrance you Mike suggestedmakingasecuritygrilleofstainless I readwithinterestMikeBeaumont’s“ASolutionfor [ It isobvioustomeMr.Gomezthatyoudonotlivein To giveMr.Gomezsomecredit,Iwillsaythathis Mr. Gomez’sclaimthatthe“savior”ofthiscountryis Do notblametheUSpress,Mr.Gomez,foradverse The CanucksareCanadiancitizens. I amreplyingtoKentGomez’sletterintheFebruary rancho Editor’s note:Anumberofreadershaverespondedto Compass Compass very , inwhichheinsultedtheCruisin’Canucks here, soyoucannotexperiencethedepriva- Readers’ Forum deep sleeper)isliabletowakeyouup, , , CC . Iamsurethat Ladyhawke ] is appeared recentlyinthe Dear S/V NuggetII Captain DavidBarton dents, youseemtohavethebettersystem. leave themonthedock. they don’tobviouslymeetthosetworequirements, they aretrainabletothewayyouwantthingsdone.If selves (youareresponsiblefortheirsafety);andtwo,if enough timeonaboattonotbehazardthem- quickly determiningtwothings:one,iftheyhavehad wannabe captainsorpassengers. usually willgivegoodcluesastowhethertheyare the firstfewhoursnewcrewmembersareonboard ly worded,simpleandemphaticinstructionsduring in avoiceofauthorityareapplied.Ihavefoundclear- enough forthelengthofvoyage—ifinstructions other unziphisfly,hecanbetrainedtouseful to hangonaleeshroudwithonehandandthe ic actionordiscussion. ening situationswherethereisnotimefordemocrat- there isthepotentialfordangerous,evenlife-threat- responsible forallthathappens,andgoodreason: world thatasingleperson,theCaptain,isheld the lastplacesinourdemocraticegalitarianmodern to yourcrewproblems.Avesselandanaircraftmaybe March issue,andbelievethatomissionmybeaclue find theword“captain”anywhereinyourarticle tion.noaa.gov; 121.5/243 MHzEPIRBsarebanned… EPIRB withcorrectdata (updateatwww.beaconregistra- emergencies: makea passage-making checklist;havean dling ability.Askaneighbor tohelp. add windlasscontrolinthecockpit,increasing han- anchorages. Anextensioncordwitha switch could ber ofharborsintheCaribbeanwith large,open anchor infrontofotherboats.Thereare agreatnum- tains orcrews? ing fromthestoredanchor,unbeknownst tothecap- freighters arrivinginportwithasailboat masthang- Have youeverseenthenewspaper picturesof fishing boatsessentially“inthemiddle of theocean”. sions whileonpassageIhaveencountered smallunlit pilot orchauffeurnapatthewheel?Onseveralocca- passageway? Canyouimaginelettingyourairplane ule, changeyourschedule.Areyouinthemaintraffic sages! Whenashorterpassagedoesn’tfityoursched- Section I,Rule5,etcetera).Simplymakeshorterpas- al rules(seeUSCoastGuardNavigationRules,PartB, hour watchesasrequiredbynationalandinternation- spend fourdaysonapassageandstillbestanding24- Dear Aldebaran II Derrick Harvey Cheers, ed spotornot—youcanflashmeanytime. way. Butpleasewhenyouareanchoredinadesignat- make boatingsafer. result ofthecollective“we”alwayslookingforwaysto course strobesaretoattractattention,anditisone but youarebarkingupthewrongstrobehere.Of will bethingsthatgobumpinthenight.SorryLaura, better othersailorscanseethem,thelesslikelythere that flashtoattractattention.REALLY…. Flash isofficiallycancelled,asareallnavigationbuoys have spokentothehigherauthorityandGreen lights foranchorannoyLaura….Okay,wellI to keepthemselvesfromgoingcrazy.Flashingstrobe Laura Sargent,Ireallyhavetowonderwhatpeopledo Dear Ti Kanot Chris Doyle Sleep tight! hard orimpossibleinmanysituations. Finding akeyandinsertingitinpadlockwouldbe emergency, anddotheextraworktomakethiseasy. “tiefs”, keepinmindhowyouaregoingtoexitan your hatch. detaching awaspnestanddepositingitrightinto happened yetbutmight—likeastrongwind gency, butsomewould,andthishashappened. making itselffreeinthemainsalontobeanemer- ering itinsideandoutwiththick,acridsmoke. superyacht andsetitselfoffontopoftheyacht,cov- emergency smokeflarebecamedetachedfromthe tangled intheyacht’srigging,breakingitsmast,an ing superyacht.Asthesuperyacht’slifelinesbecame one nightwhenhisboatwassideswipedbyadepart- This isinresponsetoanumberofarticlesthathave If theintentionistomeetglibinternetcorrespon- Sailing withserviceablecrewisusuallyamatterof I havefoundthatifacrewmanisdexterousenough Sorry, butIcan’tresistpointingoutthatcouldn’t Additionally, manysimple taskscanhelppreparefor There isnoneedforayachtwithcrewlimitations to It ishardtobelievethatasingle-handedsailorcould If thelightsreallybotheryou,thenlookother Anchor lightsaretheretoattractattentionandthe Upon readingtheMarchissueandletterfrom So, asyouconstructasystemtodeterwould-be Then therearefreakaccidentsthathavenotyet I wouldnotconsiderasnakeswimmingaboardand Compass Captain Compass (the boatwiththeflashinganchorlight) Betty Karl, , , Compass —Continued onnextpage —Continued . MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 business insurance SAIL cell: 340-513-3147 cell: 340-513-3147 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: 340-0714-6271 office: POWER it is too late. it is too www.maritimeyachtsales.com Fax: 340-777-6272 Marine Fax DM Street or unsatisfactorily settled, Then, if the claim is denied Insurance www.street-iolaire.com insurance is until you have a claim. have you is until insurance The insurance business has changed. business has insurance The insurance,no good cheap is but there There is good insurance,There is cheap there Rather, can only say, broker the honest No longer can brokers talk of low rates. talk of low No longer can brokers insurance.You never know how good your how know never insurance.You “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” your minimize best to “I’ll do my settlement record cannot be beat. Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 - 33927 or e-mail: [email protected] I have been in the 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims 47 Stevens, 198147 Stevens, 1979 46 Morgan CC, Oceanis , 1994 44 Beneteau 1978 44 CSY walkover, $ 109,000 $ 185,000 42 Hunter Passage, 1995 42 Catalina MKII, 199639 Stevens, 1981 $ 85,000 38 Island Packet, 2000 37 C&C, 1985 $ 159,000 36 Frers, 1985 $ 255,000 $ 210,000 35 Island Packet, 1991 198834 Tartan, $ 124,900 32 Bristol, 197655 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980 $ 46,000 198050 Marine Trader, $ 119,000 34 Mainship, 1979 Coastal, 1990 33 Wellcraft 1994 w/cuddy, 31 Tiara $ 59,000 $ 48,500 27 Grady White, 1997 $ 389,000 $ 50,000 1985 $ 55,000 26 Fortier w/cuddy, $ 149,000 $ 22,000 $ 79,000 $ 42,000 $ 59,900 $ 50,000 Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVI Boatyard St. Thomas, Independent who Motu, sailing in the —Continued on next page Auroras to credit this captain and , when north of St. Kitts the AM Compass , was involved in a “salvage” opera- , , Holga Compass Compass I wrote to you several years ago after a strange time We have again been involved in some salvage, but We were motorsailing to Antigua from St. Maarten to It was around 2:00 We were going to anchor at the Tobago Cays recently, at the Tobago going to anchor We were the usual in Clifton Harbour by We were approached okay, as the mooring was probably We decided that that there was no I dived down and discovered hours, just as we The alarm sounded at 2330 felt a sickening thud from Just as I started the engine I Eventually we got out by using the chartplotter to find In the morning I examined our bow — to find all of We departed ASAP having learnt our lesson: always PS There are several Having completed our charter and now en route to The bow is now repaired and a new U-bolt strongly So not all our experiences are bad, and I hope that in Deshaies, Guadeloupe, when the yacht that we then worked on, tion. We later found out from a local working with the Antigua tourist board that we had been the victims of a well-known ring and we understand that the police officer involved was sacked. They now keep a close eye on things there and there has been no trouble lately. this is a good news story! meet a charter commitment, towing our dinghy on a long line astern. It was a foul night: 24 knots on the nose with a very rough short sea. No moon and per- sistent nasty squalls. but our windlass stopped working. We decided to go to We decided to working. windlass stopped but our happy we were not instead, as on Union Island Clifton wind- having no Cays at night, in the about anchoring of us. just the two There are case we dragged. lass, in for five days moorings. We did a deal boat boys renting parted) and fool and his money are soon for EC$200 (a the two off the harbour between tied up to a mooring told that all happy with this, but was reefs. I was not we would be in the harbour were full and the moorings mooring was morning as soon as a moved the next boat boy. was the last we saw of our vacated. That and if bigger of demand for them there was plenty then the chance of their boats than ours used them, parting was probably remote. big metal block on the bot- chain, just a rope tied to a but not loud enough to tom. Alarm bells sounded, was constantly 15 to 25 make us move. The wind for the minimum that knots. I set the anchor alarm swing: 0.03 nm. would not sound with the boat’s on deck not knowing were going to bed. We rushed night was completely what was happening; the We were adrift black with no references whatsoever. Luckily, I had left the — and heading for the reef. engine battery on, not key in the ignition and the something I often do. I applied full power and got below. We were on the reef. not see without the aid of off. It was so dark we could the only way I could tell we our very powerful lamp, and alongside the other boats were in deep water was to stay using engine power and bowthruster. It was the most frightening time I’ve ever had. The other boats around us did not seem to recognize that we had a problem. the entrance to the reef and with my wife on the bow with our powerful lamp. We found our way out to the main anchorage and picked up a vacant buoy there. There we passed a sleepless night on anchor watch. the mooring still attached to us including the rope, about 50 meters of it, and the float. The rope had also wound itself around our bowthruster and I had to get into my scuba gear and cut it free. Luckily it only need a fuse replacement. dive on rented moorings, and if any alarm bells sound, listen to them! Regards, Gerry and Denise Saoirse Dear Dear Dear crew for their thoughtfulness and honesty. Best Regards, Bridget Mackwood S/Y Aurora 67 Caribbean (including a catamaran, an Island Packet, and a cruise ship), so we identify ours with its length to avoid confusion. had found the dinghy floating south of Nevis as he was on passage from St. Maarten to Guadeloupe. In very rough seas (though by now daylight) he, Fred Avizou and the crew had managed to secure the frolicking dinghy and tow it to Pointe-a-Pitre. St. Lucia for another, we picked up the straying dinghy in Pointe-a-Pitre where it was intact with all the kit aboard — even the spare petrol tank, still full! attached. We plan to meet up with Luc to raise a glass to gentlemen of the sea. you find room in dinghy’s towing U-bolt pulled through the bow of the dinghy and we were left with a long piece of rope — no dinghy. On arrival at Falmouth Harbour, Antigua, we went to Nicholson’s, enquiring for a rental dinghy for the charter in 24 hours time, to be greeted with, “I gather you have lost your dinghy?” This was rather a surprise, but Afsaneh of Nicholson’s had just received an e-mail from Luc Gaborit, captain of the charter catamaran , ! (1973 Gulfstar 44 ketch motor-sailer) about the unjust “cricket tax”, and Compass Compass Compass Julia Bartlett’s article about Luperon in your April I spent the 2005 hurricane season in Luperon, and Good: • A very protected harbor; the best-protected in the • A very beautiful country, with green mountains • Generally nice people. • A very Spanish-intensive experience. Bad: • Can’t day-sail out of Luperon harbor and along the • The harbor is polluted, so no swimming. Probably • No cruising boatyards anywhere on the north • Extremely hard to ship parts into the country; they • No marine store in Luperon (there used to be one, • Official fees are no longer cheap: for a singlehan- • Food and drink are no longer extremely cheap, • Some theft occurs, mostly of anchors: every • The transient cruisers are fine, but some of the The bottom line: most people (myself included) come I read Leigh von Bertouch’s letter in the April issue In fact, only Antigua has actually tried to force By the way, Leigh, we’d love to hear from you at Did you read about the single-hander who sold his Did you read about the single-hander 2007 issue gave a flavor of Luperon, but here are some specifics. talked to people from the 2006 season, so I don't claim to know everything about Luperon. northeastern Caribbean. and lakes. coast; the officials won’t let you. You’re only allowed to check out and go to another major port: no cruising. shouldn’t fish or run a watermaker either. coast. Maybe in an emergency you could rent a crane for a large amount of money. get lost or delayed for months or you have to take a two- day trip to the capital to ransom them out of Customs. but they couldn’t get parts into the country). der in 2005, it cost US$240 for entry/exit and four and a half months in harbor. Cruisers are starting to vote with their feet: I’ve heard the number of boats staying there is declining. The officials are nice these days, but fees are high. as apparently they were five or ten years ago. Prices are moderate. season, someone comes through the harbor and cuts rope rodes on second anchors to steal the rode and anchor. permanently “stuck” boaters have formed cliques and developed grudges with each other. out of Luperon thinking of it as an interesting once-in- a-lifetime visit, but are glad to get out. Thanks, Bill Dietrich S/V Magnolia Hello of her to pay up — so we left after a few days. St. Lucia and Dominica didn’t seem to mind at all. However, we have now chosen to avoid the remain- ing CARICOM countries, spending our tourist dollars in the French and Dutch islands. We are currently on St. Martin. [email protected]. Yours, Nigel Anderson Yacht Nano wholeheartedly agree with him. I am English and don’t have to pay it, but am told my Norwegian wife should pay it. Hello house and business in 2006 to go sailing and, after house and business in 2006 off the South American being rescued not long ago another boat and ignore coast, just wanted to get of US$200,000 for the paying the published cost for the local fishing Chilean Navy and US$50,000 time) to save him? What’s boat per day (lost fishing solo with your back to next, climbing Mount Everest So many people want the mountain for a better view? how many people to “just jump into it”, forgetting tired of being lifeguards. (including volunteers) are volunteer service, After 37 years of USCG Auxiliary rescues could have my experience suggests many have a harder been easily prevented. Single-handers responsibility to do so. job to stay safe, but no less from having to save you Take steps to keep others from yourself. I.M. Goestrighting USA —Continued page from previous each through-hull; bungs at 1/1/2007); have …as of bow- (remember, liferaft secured ready; bilge pumps under tension); readily untied cannot be line knots VHF bag with abandon-ship located conveniently flash- knives and on; handy proper lighting radio; preset emer- and in your pocket; lights in the cockpit and safe- in your radios; life jacket gency frequencies log sheets and do hourly written ty harness ready; The list is the power going to fail?). underway (when not pretend but uncomplicated. Why is much longer, see how you all that safety gear and you do not have race crew your preparedness. My would change blind- at anchor doing tasks wearing would practice of the boat improved their knowledge folds; it greatly work in the dark. and ability to MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 to findquietanchoragesfarfrom“TheMaddingCrowd”. are notdescribedintheotherguides.Thisenablesthem anchorages thatarepopularwithbareboaters. pictures anddescribehotels,bars,restaurants describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, ARE MOREECONOMICAL! www.iUniverse.com andwww.seabooks.com Real sailorscircleinStreet’sGuidetheanchoragesthat Real sailorsalsobuytheotherguides,thathavepretty Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor experience intheCaribbean,series’fourvolumes BUY STREET’SGUIDES cover theEasternCaribbeanfromPuertoRico at bookshopsandchandleries,orfrom Written byanauthorwith50yearsofsailing STREET’S GUIDES the coastofVenezuelatoABCs. Street’s Guidesareavailable REAL SAILORS down throughtheislandsand quite interestedtohearfromother represent theircountryanditsbusinesses.Iwouldbe ner isgrosslyunqualifiedforhisorherpositionto son grovel. a littleauthorityandnorespectforitcanmakeper- enter Antigua,thewayonlyagovernmentofficialwith was notpressingenough. looked attheformyet;hewasonlyassumingthatI not makeeyecontactwithmeandhadactually Immigration officerwasonlyeightfeetaway,hedid the sixthpage.Isaythisbecausewhile pressing hardenoughontheformforittotransfer mentary schoolteacherwouldberateastudentfornot as humanbeings.Iwasactuallyyelledatlikeanele- belittled anddisrespected—notonlyasvisitors,but and melikecriminals.Withoutduecause,wewere her breakfast,theyoungmaninterrogatedmywife be botheredwithme,ortheirjob. an attitudeandafeelingthattheyreallydidn’twantto young manbehindthecountergavemenothingbut and wouldliketocheckin”,theyoungwoman “Good morning,howareyoutoday?We’vejustarrived ences ofourtravels. with Immigrationhastobeoneoftheworstexperi- A recentstopatJollyHarbour,Antigua,tocheckin us through17countries,someofthemseveraltimes. Florida toTrinidad,our5,000milejourneyhastaken Caribbean aboardoursloop.Havingsailedfrom Dear frompreviouspage —Continued Dear CC Barbuda MarineAssociation,foraresponse,whichfollows. Dear Name andBoatWithheldbyRequest Fearing repercussions,whichwewerethreatenedwith, just anisolatedincident. Immigration inJollyHarbour,orifperhapsthiswas if theyhavehadasimilarexperiencewith of theotherPortsEntry,andIamdisappointedto Immigration staffatJollyHarbour,moresothansome when arrivingontheisland. reminded ofthecourtesiesvisitorsareentitledto occurred inorderthatthestaffondutycanbe occasionally theyareletdownbytheirstaff. to seethatfirst-classserviceisgivenvisitors,but larly inanislandwhichreliesontourism. there isnoexcuseforthistypeofbehaviour,particu- nearly missedmyconnectingflight.Thatbeingsaid, I waskeptwaitinginanofficeforoverhourand me lastmonthwhenenteringtheUnitedStates,where unfriendly officialswhereveronegoes.Ithappenedto justification forwhattheyhadtosuffer. which theyweretreatedatJollyHarbour.Thereisno your correspondentsforthedisrespectfulwayin Association, pleaseextendoursincereapologiesto Nigel Benjamin. Headley, togetherwiththeMarineLiaisonOfficer, and theDirectorGeneralofTourism,Lorraine letter totheHon.HaroldLovell,MinisterofTourism, from avisitortoJollyHarbour.Iwillbeforwardingthe I feelthatanindividualwhobehavesinthisman- In theendIwasmadetogrovelforpermission During thenexthour,whileyoungwomanate In spiteofmysmilingfaceandusualgreeting My wifeandIareinourthirdseasoncruisingthe We askedJohnDuffy,PresidentoftheAntigua& In general,Ihavealwaysheardgoodreportsofthe It wouldbeusefultoknowonwhichdaythis The governmentofAntigua&Barbudaisverykeen Unfortunately, andhopefullyrarely,onehastoface Firstly, onbehalfoftheAntigua&BarbudaMarine Thank youforsendingmeacopyofthecomplaint Compass Compass Compass , Readers, Readers, Compass readers sel and sizes;thenIlivedsevenyearsonmysailingves- stinky powerboatsandoncharterboatsofalltypes have loggedmorethan60,000nauticalmiles,firston Austria. I’vebeensailingforaround30years,and in theCaribbean. now Imustgivemyopinionoftheso-called“cruisers” report suchanincident? home harborornotevenanationalflag,howyoucan and thenrunaway.Butifyoudon’tseeaname, stormy weather,becausetheiranchorisdragging, seen boatsrunintoanddamageotherin tion, likealicenseplateoncar.ManytimesI’ve hailing portwrittenlegiblyonthehullareidentifica- countries theysailin.Flagsandtheboat’sname flag. Thisisadisgraceforallcruisersandoffendsthe ciation, butnotacourtesyensignorevennational flying noflagatall,orafromsailingasso- ing arebetteroffstayingintheircondominiums. talk aboutthingsthathavenothingtodowithcruis- you arenotabletoreceiveaclearsignal. engines fromearlyinthemorningtolatenightand you aresurroundedbyrunninggeneratorsand dozens of“pactors”arerunning,sendinge-mails,or but nowitisverydifficultinmostanchoragesbecause that, andthepeoplewhobroadcastit. ful togetaweatherreportonthenet—thanksfor anchors orstolendinghies.Sometimesitisveryhelp- Train dominoesandbridgelessonsthandragging when theso-called“cruisers”talkmoreaboutMexican few times,thenIstoppedbecauseitisreallypainful to PorlamarinVenezuela.Ionlylistenedtheneta heard allmorningfromGeorgeTownintheBahamas hurting themselves! to doandIwonderhowtheycamesofarwithout their ownboats,butmostofthemhavenoideawhat There areso-called“cruisers”whomostlysailing what IhaveseenintheCaribbeanisindescribable. I mustapologizetoallthebareboaters,because are onlyonceayearonholidaytheboat.Butnow had alicense,theywereinexperiencedbecause for theirwayofoperatingboats.Evenifthey something aboutseamanship. taught sailingandnavigation,soIthinkknow Antilles toVenezuela.Iam57yearsoldandhave between Florida,theBahamas,Cuba,andLesser sloop (Ingriddesign)underwayintheCaribbean on oursecond er ketch;andnowwe’velivedmorethensevenyears then sevenyearsonaCascaruda45steelmotorsail- Dear Antigua &BarbudaMarineAssociation John J.Duffy,President Yours sincerely, their personalapologies. I amsureMinistryOfficialswouldwishtoextend Antigua pleaseputthemintouchwithmebecause spondents weretreatedandiftheyarestillin no excuseforthemannerinwhichyourcorre- temporarily stationedinJollyHarbour. who arenotusedtodealingwithyachtentrywere pressure ontheImmigrationstaffand,maybe, World CupandtheCARICOMvisahasputalotof this incident.IhavenodoubtthattherecentCricket hear thattheirgoodreputationhasbeenmarredby I amanindependentjournalistandwriterfrom Flags areanotherissue.Sometimesyouseeyachts I thinkpeoplewhoneedallthisandliketheuseless Normally IprefertolistentheweatheronSSB, Consider the“cruisers’nets”onVHFradio, Many yearsago,Ialwayscriticizedthebareboaters I readsomanystoriesandlettersin As Ihavesaid,regardlessofthereason,thereis Key ofLife Compass , aS&S38-footmahoganysloop;and , Key ofLife, —Continued onnextpage —Continued a 40-footferrocement Compass that MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51

GUY DEAN Readers, , . I recently tore out six planks and eight and planks out six tore recently . I Compass Compass Sailing in Caribbean put me in the hands of some put me in the hands Sailing in Caribbean a very Marina, St. Lucia, Bruden, In Rodney Bay Vincent from Regis In Rodney Bay, Jon and Rodney Bay, works on Curtis Edmond, also in We want to hear from YOU! boat name or address, Please include your name, We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: [email protected] or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines Mermaid cut in mangrove with the replacing frames frames. for bay was razed corner of the Vale before the Harvey Will get planking complex. Carriacou Marina the new sure soon, but not off. Outta here and finish next week or destination. of direction John Smith Mermaid of Carriacou Dear break. as we all know boats always boat mechanics, would like to some bad experiences, I Although I had ones with your readers. share my good control box the fridge’s electronic nice guy, found a replacement unit, eaten away by water. I bought a few minutes. He said he which he installed within the fridge ran for a day wanted to be paid later, after or two. Amazing! Helm very quickly and Electronic fixed my Auto charged a fair price. all parts very carefully and engines diligently, handles it is a pleasure to see him keeps them extremely clean; charge is a small fraction work. And yet his per-hour wanted! of the price that a boat cleaner Best regards, Art Zawodny Sailing a 35-foot Baba Dear you if clarification is and a way we can contact required. individual regatta results complaints (kudos are okay!). We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld in print at your request. — well, at least under the — well, at least under ,

Mermaid TRINIDAD Compass Work continues here at Carenero, Venezuela, Work continues here at And I meet a lot of people on boats who are not able who are not on boats a lot of people And I meet for eight has his boat in the yard I think if somebody the abili- when I no longer have If the time comes and fair winds, even All the best to the real cruisers aboard the Dear to find any destination without GPS, because they GPS, because without any destination to find idea of navigation. skills and no seamanship have no able to they are not a sextant — talk about And I don’t a tide to mention compass, not hand-bearing use a don’t even try to learn. table, and they marina, he is stays three months in a months, then boat. — he takes a holiday on his not a cruiser I become and handle my boat and ty to navigate some con- other cruisers, I will show dangerous to this will stop cruising, even though sideration and for the safe- to me. I am responsible be very painful put anybody and partner and I cannot ty of my wife “cruisers” should in peril. Some of the so-called think about it, too! against the direction we if the wind will be always want to go! Skipper Erich Beyer S/Y Key of Life —Continued page from previous Here’s John with a friend at Carenero. Speaking of the sailing Smith family, in February John’s brother Bruce and his wife, en route from Panama to the Dominican Republic, rescued two Haitians whose boat had caught fire and sunk MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 interior.. etctoo m Instrumentation, Sails,and 2005 UpdatesonRigging, Impeccably maintained, and readytocontinue. half bath.BlueWaterProven 2 cabinlayoutwith1full/1 Rigged Yacht,Pullmanberth 41 FT.HansChristian, [email protected] [email protected] or offer, forinformationE-mail Lauderdale US$300Korbest interior inexc.cond.LocatedFt. Wilma butallsystems& side damagefromHurricane Ketch. Someexteriordeck&top- 1984 CAMPER-NICHOLSON [email protected] (+596) 696-907429E-mail equipped. US$75,000Tel Well maintained,6berths,fully fortable andspaciousvessel. fiberglass hull,seaworthy,com- Martinique, recentlyrestored, 45' MOTORSAILER [email protected] deducted frompriceE-mail partial trade.Planetickets will takecarormotorcycleas In EastCaribbean.US$88,888 depth, AutoHelm,RIBdinghy. SSB, Stereo,dualfuelsupply,new beauty withlotsofwoodwork, sloop. Manyupgrades,classic BABA 351985 [email protected] Yannis Tel(784)458-8513E-mail condition. US$150,000Capt. Kawasaki Yards,Japan.Running Northern LightsGen.Built1967 130hp FordLehman,15kw Mahogany onOak&Teak, S/Y HURRICANE72'KETCH DETSRLCTO PG LOCATION ADVERTISER aiba ahigS.Lca8 53 55 14 St.Lucia 51 Martinique 49 Martinique Antigua 47 39 Guadeloupe Caribbean Yachting Trinidad 2 44 Caribbean StarAirlines 51 Martinique Caribbean PropellersLtd. 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US$30,000E-mail '06, inventory&photoson years ago,lastanti-fouledJune "Westcoat" epoxysystem2 er, hulltreatedwith5coat um-bottomed dinghy/suncov- Currently inAntigua,8'alumini- Africa, fullyequippedforcrusing. 30' MIURASLOOP1982 [email protected] Ernst Tel(784)488-8000E-mail Grenadines US$28,000Peter gear, loctaedinthe the ropesandsomefishing anchors, lifevests,fenders,all solar charger,fishfinder/GPS, Yamaha Enduros,trimtabs, condition. 2xreliable75hp A no-nonsenseboatingood 27' BOWENPIROGUE Tel (868)739-6449 Stadt, 139K/US,Trinidad, Pearson, 45K/US,40'Vander Euro, 34'SanJuan,40K/US,36' Soleil, 285K/US,44'Bavaria,150 Simpson Cat,86K/US,52'Grand Roberts 95K/US,42'Roger 100k,72' PwrCat,P.O.A.,45' P.O.A., CustomKetch40' Rassy 45'$350K/US,Hallberg CMS YACHTBROKER [email protected] Tel (246)231-0464E-mail Barbados YachtClubUS$8,000 stack packmain,5hpOB.At elliptical leadkeel,newjib& foam sandwichconstruction, "FANCY SAILOR"33'RACER E-mail: [email protected]. Bonaire. Seriousinquires Harbour VillageMarina ready tosail.Berthedin Serious Inquiriesonlyassheis mention here.Westress # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER Convertible Rr-la atnqe35 4 17 Martinique 21 48 36 Bequia Grenada St.Lucia Grenada 34 Bequia 41 GRPro-Clean 21 Grenadines Sails Grenada Marine Trinidad Grenada Fun SailTours 21 34 Grenada 26 Frangipani Hotel 21 Food Fair Flying FishVentures 15 Jamaica Bequia Flamboyant OwlBar 5 USA Grenada Flamboyant BeachsideTerrace 1 54 First Mate Fernando's Hideaway Tortola Trinidad 41 Errol FlynnMarina Grenada Barbados Echo Marine-JotunSpecial 20 29 Doyle's Guides 24 Carriacou 50 Doyle OffshoreSails Doyle OffshoreSails 45 Dominica Down IslandRealEstate Curaçao 9 30 Dopco Travel USA Dominica MarineCenter 22 USA Grenada Martinique St.Maarten Dockwise YachtTransportSarl Derek EscherCatamarans Curaçao Marine Mustique Corea's FoodStoreMustique Cooper Marine Clarke's Court CIRExpress with T-Top. Hallberg built So. , yards frombeach.2master Lovely 1250sqft.cottage,100 FRIENDSHIP BAY,BEQUIA www.caribbizbrokers.com price. Tel(268)562-3274 now ataveryresonable cian. Ownerskeentosell qualified refrigerationtechni- tion units.Veryvaluabletoa manufacturing orrefrigera- and air-conbrands.Includes service ofmajorrefrigeration NESS MARINE REFRIGERATIONBUSI- Terry Tel(473)538-0731 boards, brushes.Contact voltage regulator,ACcontrol Generac generatorparts:AC gaskets, seals,waterpump, Includes cruisingpackage, engine, 1500hrs,runsgreat. KABOTA 16HPDIESEL www.caribbizbrokers.com sell now.Tel(268)562-3274 wishes toretireandwants experienced operator.Owner resonable price.Suitan equipment goingforavery equipped salvageboatand Antigua. 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www.caribbeancompass. com the Classified Ad BEAUTIFUL… Subscribe to garbage properly!! is On-line! Compass Dispose ofyour ISLANDS KEEP THE Caribbean Your ! # MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53 AINT PUERTO LA CRUZ,VENEZUELA PUERTO ANTIFOULING P : SAILOR’S TIN FREE SINCE 1990 • REPLACEMENT PARTS & CHANDLERY MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS • PERSONALIZED ATTENTION BY OUR EXPERIENCED STAFF THE CRUISING …and more! ABC 3 ON AMER Compass Captured in Porlamar by Angelika Gruener Captured in Porlamar by Angelika The Grenadines by Sea Kayak T XANADU MARINE: A Selected Shortwave Weather Reports Selected Shortwave Weather TELEPHONE: (58) (281) 265-3844 FAX: (58) (281) 265-2448 Harbor-Hopping: Panama to Honduras Harbor-Hopping: Panama to Read in Next Month’s E-mail: [email protected] Standby VHF Channel 72 E-mail: Standby [email protected] CORNER OF MIRANDA & GUARAGUAO, CORNER OF MIRANDA DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLIARTIGIANA DISCOUNTS ON AND CARIBE DINGHYS NEW * Delco * Underwater Metal Kit * Z-Spar * Cetol * Mercury Marlin Bottom Paint Ancor Whale * * * Ritchie * Breeze Tempo * Teleflex Seachoice * Marpac * * Jabsco * Groco * Perko Pumps * 3-M * Flags Wix * Shurflo* Johnson Racor * * Orion * Sunbrella * Starbrite * Camp Zincs * Marine Padlocks Boatlife * Marinco * Garmin * Uniden Supplies * Canvaswork Vinyl * Clear Weblon System * Shields West * * Sta-lok * 316 SS Rigging * Cordage Apelco * Harken Charts lolaire Aqua Signal * Imray * Waterproofing Accessories * Dinghy Power Boats Republic Bank Richards Rick’s Dive Shop Sails Restaurant SGI Distributors Ships Carpenter/Internet Café Soca Sails Southern Supplies Sweet Water Marina Tackle Shop T&T Hospitality & Tourism Inst. Tang Yuk Tardieu Complex The Bight The Lure Bar The Upholstery Shop Tropical Marine TTSA TTYC West Point Hotel Wheel House Pub William H Scott YSATT THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling at any of these locations (this month’s ‘All aboard! Please take a seat and make yourselves comfortable…’! ‘All aboard! Please take a seat Econo Car Electropics Formula III Fortress Woodworking Goodwood Marine Hi-Lo Supermarket IMA/CDA Area IMS Yacht Services Immigration Office Internet Café Institute of Marine Affairs Irena Tours/Members Only Island Homes Minimart Joe’s Pizza Kiss Energy Lazzari & Sampson Lennox Stewart LP Marine Marc-One Marine Warehouse Mariner’s Office Nau-T-Kol Peake Chandlery Peake Yacht Services Pier One Le Marin Caribbean Compass Readers! When in Chaguaramas, Trinidad, pick up your free Readers! When in Chaguaramas, Trinidad, pick up your Centre de Carenage 97290 Le Marin ), courtesy of our T&T distributor Boater’s Enterprise: PICK UP! bold Compass Ahoy, Aikane/Catamaran Village Alle Right Services Ankh Internet Apadoca Wines Barrow Sails Boaters’ Shop Boca’s Office (Boater’s Enterprise) Budget Marine Calypso Canvas Calypso Marine Caribbean Marine Caribbean Propeller Caribbean Yacht Works CDA office Chaguaramas Metal Works Coastal Machine Shop Convenient Car Rental Coral Cove Marina Corsa Marketing CrewsInn Marina Customs Office Dockside Supermarket Dockyard Electrics Echo Marine monthly copy of the advertisers in Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 [email protected] MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 The compensationpackageforthispositioniscommensuratewiththeresponsibilities. REMUNERATION: SPECIFIC KNOWLEDGEREQUIRED: QUALIFICATIONS ANDEXPERIENCE: JOB SUMMARY: A statutoryorganizationengagedinindustrialandmaritimedevelopment,whichiscommitted to Jamaica’seconomicgrowthanddevelopment,wishesrecruitaManagerforitsMarina. Written applicationstogetherwithadetailedresumeshouldbesubmitted • Demonstratedleadershipandmotivationalskills. • Computerliteracy. • Knowledgeofhowtooperateawidevarietymaintenanceandrepairequipment • Up-to-dateknowledgeofMarinaandyachtingactivitieslocallyinternationally. • Workingknowledgeofgeneralaccounting,andunderstandingfinancialstatements. • Experienceinpropertymanagement. • SuccessfulcompletionofBasicDeckCourse,alongwithexperienceinboathandling. • Five(5)yearspreviousmarinamanagementexperience. • TertiaryleveleducationinBusinessManagementorequivalentqualification. • Liaiseandmaintainrelationshipwithofficialspotentialclienteleinthetourism, • Overseealloperationsofthemarinaincludingpropertyandequipmentmaintenance, Management ofallaspectsmarinaoperations withinbudgetaryguidelinesinan • • Ensuretheneedsofeliteboatingclienteleareaddressed,asitpertains • ManagementofaBlue-FlagYachtfacilityaccommodatingcruisingsailboats, used atMarina. efficient, costeffectiveandcreativemanner,followingestablishedpoliciesprocedures. marina andboatingfields. vessel launchingandtowing,fuelsales,boatyardoperationsleaseadministration. to yachtingaccommodationwhileinport. fishing vessels,commercial&megayachtvesselsupto350feet. MARINA MANAGER or emailednolaterthanJune232007to: [email protected] VACANCY KINGSTON, JAMAICA “Marina Manager” P.O. Box474 or directly forconfirmation. Compass All informationwascorrecttothebestof ourknowledgeatthetimethisissueof TBA TBA TBA TBA 30 30 29 -10July 29 -30 29 28 -8July 24 23 -24 23 -24 22 -24 21 -1July 21 -24 21 -24 21 19 18 16 -23 16 -17 TBA TBA TBA 31 -4June 31 30 29 28 27 26 -27 25 -27 25 -27 25 -26 25 24 -28 22 20 17 -19 17 -19 16 -20 14 13 -18 12 -13 11 -13 10 8 7 -8 6 -23 6 -7 5 5 4 -13 3 2 1 1 MAY 15 -7July 15 -18 12 9 -10 8 -17 7 6 -12 1 JUNE If youwouldlikeanauticalortourism eventlistedFREEinourcalendar, please sendthename anddate(s)oftheevent nameand www.transcaraibes.com 11th AngolaConstructionSailingCompetition, Bonaire. Bequia Carnival.www.bequiatourism.com 20th AnnualArubaHi-WindsAmateurWorld WindsurfingChallenge. Mount Gay/BoatyardRegatta,Barbados. [email protected], www.antiguayachtclub.com Green IslandWeekend.AntiguaYachtClub(AYC),tel/fax(268)460-1799, FULL MOON(“bluemoon”:thesecondfullmoonthismonth) 16th Firecracker500Race&ChiliCook-Off,Tortola.WEYC Fisherman’s Birthday.Boatanddinghyracesinmanyfishingcommunities. Battle ofCaraboboDay.PublicholidayinVenezuela. Summer Sailstice,worldwide.www.summersailstice.com Financial ServicesChallengeRace,BVI.RBVIYC Fishermen’s Festival,Charlotteville,Tobago. 10th AnnualSt.KittsMusicFestival.www.stkittsmusicfestival.net St. Thomas,USVI.STYC,www.styc.net 15th annualScotiabankCaribbeanInternationalOptimistRegatta, Summer Solstice Labour Day.PublicholidayinTrinidad. Fathers’s Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRico. Bonaire DiveFestival.www.diveintoadventurebonaire.com www.tropicalsailloft.com Caribbean OneDesignKeelboatChampionships,St.Maarten. www.ccregatta.com Second AnnualCaptainOliver’sCaribBeerRegatta,SaintMartin. 57th AnnualErnestHemingwayFishingTournament,Havana,Cuba.CNIH www.infobonaire.com 4th KingoftheCaribbeanFreestyleWindsurfingCompetition,Bonaire. www.antiguanice.com/fish 15th AnniversaryoftheHemingwayInternationalYachtClubCuba Indian ArrivalDay.PublicholidayinTrinidad. Memorial Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI. Whit Monday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces. Anguilla Day.PublicholidayinAnguilla. (YCM), tel(596)632676,fax9448,[email protected] Transcanal Race,MartiniquetoSt.Lucia.YachtClubdela 7th BVIMusicFestival.www.bvimusicfest.net tel (284)4951002,fax495-4184,[email protected],www.weyc.net 33rd Foxy’sWoodenBoatRegatta,JostVanDyke.WestEndYachtClub 20th CuraçaoJazzFestival.www.curacao-actief.com Ascension Day.PublicholidayinSt.BartsandBonaire. Canouan Regatta.SailingClub,(784)458-8197 Emancipation Day.PublicholidayinMartinique. Independence Day.PublicholidayinCuba. 3rd AnnualBonaireJazz&SalsaFestival.www.bonairenet.com (CNM), [email protected] Le CombatdeCoquesRegatta,Martinique.ClubNautiqueduMarin Around GuadeloupeRace.TriskellAssociation,www.triskellcup.com Mother’s Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRico. Angostura TobagoSailWeek,CrownPoint,Tobago.www.sailweek.com (RBVIYC), tel(284)494-3286,fax494-6117,www.rbviyc.net BVI DinghyChampionships,Tortola.RoyalBritishVirginIslandsYachtClub Anguilla Regatta.www.caribbeanracing.com www.worldcruising.com ARC EuroperallysetssailfromJollyHarbour,Antigua,toPortugal. Armistice Day.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndies. [email protected] Traditional BoatsRendezvous,St.Pierre,Martinique. Carib canoe On-board circus,StPierre,Martinique.www.voilierspectacle.com World EnvironmentDay Ascension Day.PublicholidayinNetherlandsAntillesandGuadeloupe. St. LuciaJazzFestival.http://stluciajazz.org www.carib1500.com West MarineAtlanticCupsetssailfromTortola,BVI,toBermuda. FULL MOON Festival oftheSea,St.Barts. May Day/LabourDay.Publicholidayinmanyplaces. Les SaintesRegatta,Guadeloupe. Queen’s Birthday.Publicholidayinsomeislands. IC24 Worlds,BVI.RBVIYC and [email protected] Morgan’s Run2007rallyfromCartagena,ColombiatoOldProvidence Corpus Christi.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Provo Mariners’Week,Turks&Caicos.www.maritimeheritage.tc/ FULL MOON went topress—butplanschange,soplease contacteventorganizers HIHO WindsurfRegatta,BVI.www.go-hiho.com HIHO CaribbeanPassagerally,BVI.www.go-hiho.com n LaRoutedesTepuysrallyfromMartiniquetoPuertolaCruz. 2nd 41st Antigua&BarbudaSportsFishingTournament. Vincy Mas(St.VincentCarnival).www.svgtourism.com contact information oftheorganizingbodyto: • [email protected], or Gli-Gli’s CALENDAR Leeward [email protected] • fax(784)457-3410 MAY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 pitch-poling

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