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MARCH 2017 | Our 39th Year AndrewHarper.com

TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

BARONIAL GRANDEUR, EMERALD LANDSCAPES, FARM-TO-TABLE CUISINE COVER PHOTOGRAPH Ashford Castle / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER IRELAND ON THE UPSWING THIS MONTH

eturning to Ireland has always been given a stunning makeover to the IRISH EXCURSIONS been a joy, even if visits in the tune of $75 million. After a blissful few days in County Mayo on the west coast, I drove down to Cork and then up to aftermath of the 2008 crash From New York, we flew into Shan- R Dublin. There I boarded the new Grand Hibernian tended to be rather sobering. The Great non, on the west coast, where we picked train for a three-day journey...... 1-7 Recession hit Ireland with a wallop, up a car for the 90-minute drive to Cong, ! Online: Dublin Pubs and Touring Itinerary leaving the once-vaunted Celtic Tiger in County Mayo. After zipping along a economy defanged and declawed. But on motorway toward Galway, we soon came our last trip, in 2013, I saw glimmers of to where the four-lane highway ended, PARIS UPDATE light: the recent debut of exceptional new and we found ourselves on a two-lane road Having been closed for four years, the Ritz Paris hotels such as Ballyfin in County Laois bordered by hedgerows. Thanks to the has finally reopened. I also discovered several and the emergence of new restaurants good signage, we reached our destination fine new restaurants and a number of stylish boutiques...... 8-11 capitalizing on the country’s exceptional without difculty. With its thatched-roof meat, fish and produce. Now, at last, a cottages surrounded by forested hills, the Find video and more photography of our trips significant recovery appears to be under postcard-perfect village of Cong provided at AndrewHarper.com/hideaway-report. way: the Irish capital is bustling just as the setting for John Ford’s 1952 classic Andrew Harper travels anonymously and before, with an extensive urban light- movie, The Quiet Man. Nearby, Ashford pays full rate for all lodging, meals and rail system under construction; Dublin’s Castle stood on a 350-acre estate, as it related travel expenses. Since the launch of Westbury hotel has been beautifully has for close to 800 years. this newsletter, in 1979, the featured hotels renovated; and Ashford Castle, long a The original part of the castle dates to and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. favorite of Hideaway Report readers, has 1228, when the Anglo-Norman de Burgos

Full-service travel planning is available to members at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Oak Hall, and Connemara lamb and soufflé at the George V Dining Room at Ashford Castle / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

LOUGH CORRIB CRUISE

ne of the most interesting and enjoyable Oactivities at Ashford Castle was a boat tour of Lough Corrib aboard the 80-passenger Isle of Inisfree. The vessel’s articulate and knowledge- able captain told us that the lake contains a trove of underwater archaeological sites, including several vessels from the Viking days, among them the well-preserved Carrowmoreknock boat. (Bronze spearheads and a rare wooden spear have been recovered for conservation by the National Museum of Ireland.) The most famous of Lough Corrib’s 1,327 islands is Inchagoill Island, midway between Cong and Oughterard. As we approached, we enjoyed spectacular views of the Maumturks range, Joyce Country and the mountains of Connemara. Having landed to explore its ancient monastic settlements, we built it after defeating the local O’Connors. a patterned carpet and a plump cush- strolled among the ruins of the church of Three centuries later, in 1589, Sir Rich- ioned sofa. Welcoming touches included St. Patrick — which is thought to date from ard Bingham defeated the de Burgos and a complimentary bottle of Champagne either the sixth or the seventh century — and the constructed a fortified enclave. However, and a decanter of sherry. The bedroom 12th-century Hiberno-Romanesque Temple of the Saints, where the arched entryway is ringed the greatest expansion came in 1852, had the same color scheme and proved by still-discernible faces of holy men. One of the when the wealthy Guinness brewing comfortable, albeit rather snug, with tombs in the adjacent cemetery is believed to be family purchased the estate and added two ample storage in custom armoires and that of Muirgheas O’Nioc, archbishop of Tuam, large extensions. The Guinnesses deeded a generous chest of drawers. We had a who died in 1128. A small robin watched us with Ashford Castle to the Irish government minor problem with the bedside lighting, great curiosity and would not leave, even when in 1939, at which time it became a hotel. but our call for assistance brought an we approached. It was, our captain insisted, a The well-respected South African group immediate and satisfactory response. The soul returning to the site of its grave. Certainly, Red Carnation Hotels acquired the prop- principal marble bath provided a double the whole atmosphere was otherworldly. On erty in 2013. Overseeing its restoration, vanity and a combined soaking tub and the way back to Ashford, we were entertained company president Beatrice Tollman and shower; a second small bath came with by a singer from Cong, an elderly man with a fine architect Philippe Bonino were faced a walk-in shower stall. voice, who 64 years earlier had enjoyed his 15 minutes of fame as an extra in John Ford’s with considerable challenges. The project Ashford has several dining venues. The Quiet Man. entailed complete repointing of all the As a setting for a calorie-laden after- stonework, including 40 battlements; noon tea, the Connaught Room could not Isle of Inisfree, and the Hiberno-Romanesque Temple reinforcing almost 11,000 square feet of be bettered. The main George V Dining of the Saints / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER roofing with 30 tons of lead; replacing Room — the name comes from a visit to 800 windows; installing 130 chandeliers; the castle in 1905 by the Prince of Wales, and refurbishing all 82 rooms and suites. later King George V — is a dramatic space As you approach, the towers and with paneled walls, a coffered ceiling crenellations of the castle are an impres- and Waterford chandeliers. Executive sive sight. Alighting from our car, we chef Philippe Farineau combines classic were escorted into the great Oak Hall by French cuisine with outstanding local a tailcoated doorman, where we waited ingredients, many sourced from within briefly to check in. With its paneled 20 miles of Cong. My starter of wild Irish walls, magnificent central chandelier, pigeon with foie gras was superb, as was blazing log fire and library of more than the ensuing rack of Connemara lamb, 800 antiquarian books, the hall is both carved tableside, with roasted château imposing and inviting. potatoes, asparagus and a Paloise sauce. Once registered, we were accompa- The service was attentive, professional nied to our suite. This came with a jewel and friendly throughout. The adjacent box of a living room with a triptych of Prince of Wales Bar, with its perfect propor- windows looking out over Lough Corrib. tions and intricate wood detailing, is one Overall the lavish décor was a study in of the most beautiful bars I’ve ever seen. blue, with floral damask wall coverings, Informal meals can be taken at Cullen’s

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT MARCH 2017 Old tower in the gardens, and our suite at Ashford Castle / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Due to delays and diversions, the 165-mile drive from Ashford took longer than anticipated, so we were delighted to finally arrive at the gates to Ballymaloe, just outside the village of Shanagarry, about 30 minutes to the east of Cork. A winding driveway took us through fields and woodland up to the house, most of which dates to the early-19th century. The vine-clad façade, with a handsome blue door topped with a fantail window, looked extremely welcoming. The hotel’s 29 rooms, all individually decorated, come in a variety of sizes. Our so-called Large Room was decorated in traditional country house style, with striped wallpaper, chintz curtains and a beige carpet. The antique furniture included an armoire fronted with a at the Cottage on the grounds nearby. experts — especially during the mayfly dressing mirror, a writing desk and two Ashford’s makeover included the season at the end of May and beginning of armchairs by a window that overlooked addition of an impressive new spa. It June. We also enjoyed visits to the Harris’s the grounds. The bath had just been ofers treatment rooms with views across hawks in the hotel’s falconry school. redone with modern fixtures, though it the serene expanse of Lough Corrib. A Thanks to the lavish investment by provided only a combined shower and menu of facials, scrubs and detoxifying its new owners, Ashford Castle is now a tub. The property’s principal public space, wraps, plus aroma and marine therapies, magnificent property and one of the finest the living room, with its high ceilings and is complemented by a hammam and a country house hotels in Ireland. fireplace, proved a delightful spot for spectacular relaxation pool. However, an afternoon read. And a conservatory, most of our time at the property was spent fragrant with jasmine, soon became our outdoors. The grounds are crisscrossed SHANAGARRY place of choice for a pre-dinner cocktail. by paths and walkways leading to glori- or more than 50 years Ballymaloe Given Ballymaloe’s reputation, we ous viewpoints. A nine-hole golf course F House has drawn food lovers first looked forward to our dinners with relish. is laid out on what was originally a deer from Ireland and then from the world Although the Yeats Room Restaurant can park (although keen golfers will no doubt over. Back in 1964, the co-owner of the no longer boast a Michelin star, we were visit legendary links courses nearby such hotel, Myrtle Allen, brought new life to not disappointed. The multi-choice five- as Connemara, Carne, Enniscrone and Irish cuisine. Her formula — a daily menu course dinners were exceptional. Among County Sligo). And Lough Corrib ofers using the best local ingredients simply our favorite dishes were potato soup with exceptional fishing for wild brown trout prepared — now seems obvious, but it lovage pesto; chicken livers with carrots, — the best in Europe according to some was way ahead of its time. cumin and wild watercress; roasted duck

Exterior and swimming pool at Ballymaloe House / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

MARCH 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 Dining room, chicken livers at the Yeats Room Restaurant, detail of our Large Room, and a lounge at Ballymaloe House / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

with sage-and-onion stufng; and local For some years, many Hideaway NEW DUBLIN DISTILLERY lamb braised with garlic and scallions. Report readers have written to ask me During our stay, we took a class at for another recommendation in Dublin ublin was once the center of the Irish whiskey Dindustry. On the evening of June 18, 1875, a the Ballymaloe Cookery School located aside from The Merrion, not least because fire broke out at a bonded storehouse containing two miles away. Founded by Darina Allen, demand for accommodations at this 5,000 barrels of whiskey. The flaming liquid Myrtle’s daughter-in-law, it is regarded as distinguished hotel often results in its flowed through the streets of the Liberties section the finest cookery school in Ireland, and being fully booked. With that in mind, of the city like lava, setting fire to everything in students come from all over the world we checked into The Westbury, which its path. Knowing water would only disperse the to attend its courses. Even if you are not has recently been the subject of a $2.2 flames, the fire department finally extinguished aflame with culinary curiosity, the school million renovation. them with huge amounts of horse manure! is well worth visiting for its gardens, as The location of the hotel, on a small Whiskey production moved out of the city. well as the orchards and vegetable plots street just of the main pedestrian thor- Although Irish whiskey enjoyed robust sales in that supply the kitchen at Ballymaloe oughfare of Grafton Street, is ideal. Close the early part of the 20th century, its popularity House. The Garden Shop will be of great to both Trinity College and St. Stephen’s declined in the ’60s and ’70s, and Dublin’s last distillery shut down in 1976. However, in 2015, interest to gardeners and cooks alike, Green, the hotel is an easy walk to most descendants of Walter Teeling, who opened a with its selection of tools, seeds, books, of the city’s leading shops, restaurants, distillery in 1782, built Dublin’s first new distillery cookware and products. galleries, museums and other cultural in more than 125 years. Located in the Liberties We also made an excursion to the venues. At the heart of the property is area, Teeling Distillery ofers daily tours. A very nearby Jameson whiskey distillery and a handsome marble reception area and good historical exhibition sets the scene, and the paid a visit to the scenic fishing port of the impressive Gallery lounge. There tour then goes through all the steps of whiskey Kinsale, which is known for its restaurants the décor is a skillful mix of classic and production, including a visit to the three copper and annual Gourmet Festival in October. contemporary design, with wood-clad pot stills that are at Teeling’s heart. A tasting Although Ballymaloe House does pillars, crystal chandeliers and panels follows. Whiskey from selected casks is given not ofer the pinnacle of luxury, it is an of pale-pink marble. On arrival, our suite further aging in former rum barrels, which impart elegant and comfortable country house a spicy vanilla nose to the spirit. A bottle came hotel with professional and personable home in my luggage. 13-17 Newmarket, Dublin. A Luxury Suite at The Westbury / © SIMON BROWN Tel. (353) 1-531-0888. teelingdistillery.com staf. We found the experience of total immersion in all things culinary to be exceptionally interesting and worthwhile. DUBLIN he 174-mile drive from Ballymaloe Tto Dublin takes about three hours on the M8 motorway. On my first trip more than 30 years ago, the trafc was invari- ably light. Nowadays, alas, it can often be

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER quite frenetic. /

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT MARCH 2017 Smoked venison sausage at Fallon & Byrne, and beef cheek at The Pig’s Ear / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER was not ready, so a hospitable assistant manager escorted us to The Gallery and graciously arranged for tea and scones to be served. Our spacious Studio Suite came with a contemporary four-poster bed, a large credenza, an ample writing desk and a neutral palette of taupes and creams, enlivened by plush red club chairs and accent pillows. Amenities included a Nespresso cofeemaker and an iPod dock. DUBLIN RESTAURANT DISCOVERIES The marble bath had a large single vanity and combined tub and shower. Although I always look forward to exploring the Dublin dining scene, and I’m rarely disap- the atmosphere of the suite was somewhat pointed. More than ever, chefs are assertive in using Irish ingredients and creating akin to that of an upscale business hotel, farm-to-table preparations, rather than relying on Continental-inspired recipes. we were comfortable and content. For in-house dining, you can choose Fallon & Byrne between stylish WILDE for seasonal Irish An easy walk from Grafton Street, this is a must for those who love food markets. cuisine as well as classic international The cavernous ground floor, with its high, column-supported ceilings, holds a gour- met’s dream of teas, cofees, jams, crackers, cookies and condiments, as well as dishes, and Balfes, a café-like spot for fruits and vegetables and counters of exceptional seafood, poultry and meats. The casual meals. I greatly enjoyed the seclud- upstairs restaurant is elegant and sophisticated, with a large bar at one end and ed Sidecar Bar, an intimate, clubby space generously spaced linen-topped tables. The menu reads like a roll call of top Irish with proficient mixologists who were also producers. My favorite starter was the smoked venison sausage, presented on a well-versed in the lore of Irish whiskey. wooden board along with a flavorful cheddar-and-blue-corn cake, grilled scallions A highlight of our stay was the out- and a cherry-shallot relish. A main course of Achill Island lamb, complemented by standing concierge desk, where the smoked sheep’s yogurt, roasted carrots and a cashew gremolata, proved outstanding. performance of the staff could not 11-17 Exchequer Street. Tel. (353) 1-472-1010. fallonandbyrne.com have been more efcient and informa- tive. Although The Westbury lacks the The Pig’s Ear traditional charm of The Merrion, it is This is definitely one of the hot restaurants in the capital right now. Located on nonetheless a fine hotel and worthy of several floors, the tables are set without cloths, giving the rooms a casual yet refined recommendation. H feel. Under the direction of chef Damien Derwin, the kitchen produces dishes that take full advantage of fine suppliers throughout Ireland. I opted to start with the Balfes, and the view from The Gallery lounge crab accented with pickled yellow beets, trout caviar and a splash of langoustine at The Westbury oil. Afterward, I chose the rich dish of beef cheek cooked in stout with celeriac, asparagus, ox tongue and bone marrow. Accompanied by a side dish of potatoes roasted in duck fat, it was utterly delicious. 4 Nassau Street. Tel. (353) 1-670-3865. thepigsear.ie

HOTELS AT A GLANCE

Ashford Castle A97 LIKE The efortless balance between consummate professionalism and genuine personal warmth. DISLIKE The car park by the entrance detracts from the romantic impression. GOOD TO KNOW Hideaway Cottage, a secluded restored boathouse, located a short walk from the castle, is beautifully appointed and ideal for those on honeymoon. Deluxe Room, $780; Junior Stateroom, $1,480. Cong, County Mayo. Tel. (353) 94-954-6003. ashfordcastle.com

Ballymaloe House A91 LIKE The combination of a fine restaurant and the nearby cooking school. DISLIKE The style of our modern bath was rather austere. GOOD TO KNOW Ballymaloe ofers several special wine programs during the year. And if you loved the hotel’s famous bread, you can learn how to make it at 7 a.m. each morning with the kitchen staf. Large Room, $310; Superior Room, $330. Shanagarry, County Cork. Tel. (353) 21-465-2531. ballymaloe.ie

The Westbury A94 LIKE The ideal location close to Grafton Street. DISLIKE Our bath’s lack of a walk-in shower and its single vanity. GOOD TO KNOW Dublin’s social elite congregate in The Gallery for afternoon tea. Deluxe Room, $520; Luxury Studio Suite, $630. Balfe Street, Dublin. Tel. (353) 1-679-1122. doylecollection.com

preceding a rating, denotes an ofcially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. A Visit AndrewHarper.com for information on these and 13 additional recommendations in Ireland. BALFES: © SIMON BROWN / LOUNGE: PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER /

MARCH 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 The observation car on the Grand Hibernian / © RICHARD JAMES TAYLOR IRELAND’S FIRST LUXURY TRAIN

had long wondered why Ireland, as a dark wood desk and a built-in armoire. cabins have en suite baths. Each is small unlike neighboring Scotland, did The comfortable bed was made up with but a model of efcient design, with white I not have a luxury train from which coverlets by Avoca, an Irish company that subway tiles on the walls, aquamarine tiles to view its glorious scenery. I was there- has been weaving high-quality textiles in the shower and sufcient counters and fore extremely interested to learn that since 1723. I especially approved of the shelves for toiletries. Belmond (formerly Orient-Express) was easy-to-reach reading lights. Original Attention to detail was evident planning to launch just such a train in artwork adorned the walls. And then throughout all parts of the Grand Hiber- August 2016, to join the ranks of the there were the grace notes, such as petite nian, most notably in the observation Royal Scotsman and the legendary Venice Galway Crystal vases with fresh flowers car, with its walnut veneer and leather Simplon-Orient-Express. and a crystal tray with a ring holder. All banquettes that made perfect perches Belmond had to start from scratch by purchasing 10 carriages and a locomotive Our cabin and a dining car aboard the Grand Hibernian, and the Curraghmore House / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER from Irish Rail. These were shipped to Scotland to be re-engineered and painted in their distinctive livery of midnight blue. The next stop was Antrim, in Northern Ireland, where 40 craftsmen spent 35,000 hours transforming the interiors. As configured, the Grand Hibernian now has five sleeper cars, each with four cabins, for a total of 40 passengers; two dining cars; and an observation car. At Dublin’s Heuston Station, a kilted drummer escorted us and our fellow passengers across a red carpet leading to the waiting train. As soon as we boarded, we were impressed by the caliber of the workmanship. Elegant wainscoting graced the passageways to the cabins, and custom-woven wool-blend carpet- ing clad the floors. Our cabin had two large windows, with both curtains and pull-down shades. Its interior was chiefly cream, with bright accent pillows, as well

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT MARCH 2017 for watching the verdant hills and the spectacular coastline slide past. A TITANIC Our fellow passengers turned out to be a congenial group of people from the EXPERIENCE U.S., Britain, Ireland and continental Europe. Meals provided the principal opportunity to socialize. The two dining cars had slightly diferent configurations: Wexford came with tables for six, Sligo with tables for four. Overall the dishes that emerged from the two small kitchens were outstanding. Highlights included a confit of duck with lentils and mushrooms, a fine seafood soup and a perfectly cooked piece of Irish beef. NORTH SEA In the evenings the train would “stable” for the night, meaning that it The façade of Titanic Belfast / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER remained in one place. This allowed for local performers to provide after-dinner ike many people, I am fascinated by the story of the Titanic, so when a museum dedicated to the entertainment in the observation car, L ship’s story opened in Belfast in March 2012, a visit immediately became a priority. Belfast is where as well as to permit motion-free sleep. the great liner was built by the firm Harland and Wolf, and Titanic Belfast, as it is known, sits right by (Personally, I find being on a moving train the slipway where the vessel was launched in 1911. The eight-story building itself is extraordinary, with a great inducer of sleep, but I realize angled walls clad in anodized aluminum that recall the prows of great ships. (Some local people, however, that I am in the minority.) Excursions on insist that the structure looks more like an iceberg.) Inside, the exhibitions are arranged in nine galleries. our three-day itinerary were supposed The history of the Titanic comes alive in its entirety, beginning with the context of Belfast as an industrial to include a visit to Giant’s Causeway, a boomtown. (The city was a base for major cotton, linen, tobacco, whiskey and rope-making companies, remarkable geologic formation on the in addition to Harland and Wolf.) Subsequent exhibits deal with the design and construction of the ship, north coast, but this was canceled due its launch, how it was furnished and outfitted, the events leading up to the catastrophe, the sinking of to track problems. Instead we went to the ship, the world’s reaction, the inquiry, depictions of the tragedy and what has been learned since the wreck was discovered by deep-sea explorer Robert Ballard in 1985. I had allotted two hours for my visit the exceptional Titanic Belfast museum but could have stayed much longer. (see box) and then journeyed down to Waterford. There we toured Curraghmore House, the home of the Marquess of Water- GIANT’S North CAUSEWAY ford, and took tea with his lordship and Atlantic Ocean SCOTLAND his son, who raises polo ponies and makes 1 Ashford Castle his own whiskey. We also had a chance to 2 Ballymaloe House 3 The Westbury visit the new House of Waterford Crystal NORTHERN BELFAST IRELAND factory, where we enjoyed a Champagne reception and an opportunity to shop at a discount. ISLE OF MAN I was extremely sorry when our brief journey came to an end. I had especially WESTPORT IRELAND DUNDALK enjoyed the time spent with our excellent 1 Irish guide, Vincent Butler, a fount of wide- CONG Sea L OUGH ranging knowledge. The staf in general C ORRIB Routes aboard the 3 were friendly, kind and accommodating. Grand Hibernian GALWAY DUBLIN Travel on the Grand Hibernian is much 2-night journey 4-night journey like being aboard a country house hotel ENNIS 6-night journey on wheels. H (both routes) SHANNON LIMERICK

Belmond ofers three itineraries on the Grand Hibernian from mid-April to mid-October. “Taste of Ireland” is a WATERFORD two-night trip. Cabin, from $3,220 per person. “Legends KILLARNEY and Loughs” is a four-night trip. Cabin, from $5,515 per 2 person. “Grand Tour of Ireland” is a six-night trip. Cabin, SHANAGARRY CORK W ALES from $7,845 per person. Rates include all meals and Celtic beverages (including alcohol) and excursions described Sea in the itinerary. Tel. (800) 524-2420. belmond.com

MARCH 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 ait ofr Str ve Do

ENGLAND (West Country)

English Channel THE RITZ REBORN TOUJOURS PARIS

The Grand Jardin at the Ritz Paris / © VINCENT LEROUX

n the movie Sabrina, Audrey Hepburn For many, the first cause for alarm European aristocrats all the comforts famously quips, “Paris is always a good was the announcement that New York- of home with state-of-the-art plumbing Iidea.” That’s still true today, but a year based French celebrity interior architect and heating, plus a fine restaurant and after the tragedy at the Bataclan theater, Thierry W. Despont would oversee the lively bars. When it opened, in 1898, a few the motto of the French capital, “Fluctuat project. Like many people, I’ve never much notables snifed that the new hotel seemed nec mergitur,” or “Tossed but not sunk,” admired his makeover of The Dorchester a little nouveau riche, but the swells still has a sobering resonance. in London. So I feared he might be simi- quickly piled in. Marcel Proust became a For American travelers, the biggest larly insensitive at the Ritz. regular, and he was followed by a flock of news is the reopening of the Ritz Paris, On the other hand, the world has American bons vivants, including F. Scott on the Place Vendôme, after a four-year changed a lot since Swiss-born innkeeper Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway (for whom renovation that’s said to have cost an César Ritz and his partner, French chef one of the hotel’s bars is named) and Cole eye-popping $450 million. That’s a lot of Auguste Escofer, decided to open a hotel Porter. Fashion designer Coco Chanel money, but the property urgently required in the heart of Paris that would offer lived at the hotel for more than 30 years. a bone-deep reinvention to retain its status as one of the city’s “palace” hotels. Details of our Grand Deluxe Room at the Ritz Paris / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER With the arrival of the Asian luxury brands — Peninsula, Mandarin Oriental and Shangri-La — the Ritz was starting to seem in need of serious work. No sooner than it had closed, however, its fans began to fret about what the makeover would do to the Ritz’s inimitable charm. Could the hotel be modernized without destroying its unique ambiance, created by an alert, good-humored staf and the graciously privileged patrons? The fear of the hotel’s habitués was that the implementation of the quality-measuring metrics practiced by international hotel chains would result in the standardiza- tion of a place that has nurtured a unique identity for well over a century.

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT MARCH 2017 Agnelle / © MICHELE MOUTARDIER So as my cab headed into Paris, I Although I found the room excep- found myself wondering if the central tionally attractive and comfortable, assumption of the Ritz experience — that the dimmer switches, masked as gilded everyone wants a taste of French aris- 19th-century turnkeys, weren’t intuitive tocratic opulence — is still relevant in a and required a demonstration. I also new century when so many other types of noticed that French-made Porthault hospitality are available. After all, most linens, another long-running signature of of the new Asian properties in Paris have the hotel’s, had been replaced by an Ital- pointedly eschewed French formality. ian brand. Although they were the same Arriving at the Ritz brought back a pale apricot color of all Ritz towels and host of memories and provoked an antici- robes, they lacked the impressive heft pation of pleasure. The subtle signature of the classic French product. Given the scent of the hotel, a musky perfume called French genius for perfumes and toilet- Ambre, was immediately evident just ries, the Ritz-branded amenities in the as before. However, the entry area has bath were underwhelming. (Possibly the SHOPPING DISCOVERIES been opened up to create a larger, lighter new marketing partnership with Chanel vestibule, and the reception area now is precludes products from competing Adelline set back in a discrete alcove just past brands such as Guerlain and Hermès.) Jewelry designer Adeline Roussel’s stunning the concierge desk. The young woman at The well-lit bath itself provided two sinks contemporary pieces are designed in Paris and check-in was efcient and charming. I was with gilded swan faucets, a soaking tub manufactured in Jaipur, the gem capital of India. 54 Rue Jacob, 6e. Tel. (33) 1-47-03-07-18. then ushered upstairs to my 590-square- and an “experience” shower. foot Grand Deluxe Room. Possibly reflecting a desire to make Agnelle The long rectangular space came the hotel more appealing to a younger This family firm has been making beautifully with two Juliet balconies and overlooked clientele, the Ritz has hired 40-something stitched gloves since 1937. the spectacular new conservatory-style chef Nicolas Sale to take over its storied 19 Rue Duphot, 1e. Tel. (33) 1-42-33-31-40. dining room that had been added to Bar L’Espadon restaurant. Sale’s menu is Vendôme. Farther afield, I could make intended to shake up the classicism of Vanessa Seward out the Ministry of Justice and the Eifel the previous era. Nowadays Paris is brim- Fashion designer Vanessa Seward is making a Tower. The décor featured a color scheme ming with youthful gastronomic talent, splash with discerning Parisian women of all ages. of goldenrod with powder blue and cream and presumably the Ritz did not want to 171 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 6e. accents. Furniture included Louis XVI be thought staid in comparison. Many Tel. (33) 1-70-36-06-12. armchairs and a damask-upholstered of his dishes are excellent. I especially Verbreuil sofa in front of a marble fireplace. My enjoyed an elaborate langoustine starter Founder Sylvie Véron Hériard-Dubreuil has first experience of the stealthy modernity that included langoustine jelly, sturgeon created a new insiders’ luxury label that produces at the hotel was when the porter showed caviar, pepper roasted with citrus, and exceptionally handsome logo-free handbags for me that the mirror over the mantelpiece enoki mushrooms with pistachio. Adding women. Two boutiques: 4 Rue de Fleurus, 6e, and contained a flat-screen television, which to the luster of a meal at L’Espadon are 18 Bis Rue Saint-Roch, 1e. Tel. (33) 1-45-49-22-69 was invisible until turned on. the ministrations of sommelier Estelle and (33) 1-76-53-97-48.

Clockwise from left: Chanel au Ritz Paris spa, Bar Vendôme, L’Espadon, and Bar Hemingway at the Ritz Paris

/ SPA: © THOMAS DESCHAMPS / BAR VENDOME, BAR HEMINGWAY AND L’ESPADON: © VINCENT LEROUX MARCH 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 Touzet, who oversees a list of some 50,000 bottles with charm, originality and FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANTS deep knowledge. The meal we enjoyed most during our Clover Grill stay, however, was in the new conservatory After the success of his Left Bank table, Clover, and his eponymous restaurant on dining room of Bar Vendôme, where the the Right Bank, chef Jean-François Piège has opened a lively grill room restaurant steel-and-glass roof slides open when the near Les Halles, Paris’s old market district. From a superb selection of meats, the weather is good. Appetizers of foie gras standout is the Noire de la Baltique beef, aged over beechwood shavings in a ware- and dressed crab with salad leaves were house in the Port of Hamburg. 6 Rue Bailleul, 1e. Tel. (33) 1-40-41-59-59. impeccable, as was pan-roasted chicken with artichokes and pasta stufed with Divellec duxelles (chopped mushrooms sautéed Talented young chef Mathieu Pacaud, the son of Bernard Pacaud of the three-star with onions, shallots, garlic and parsley), L’Ambroisie in the Place des Vosges, has succeeded with a brilliant reboot of one and sea bass with grilled baby leeks and a of the most famous seafood restaurants in Paris. perfect Grenobloise sauce (butter, white The new look of the dining room is by Studio KO, wine, lemon and capers). Desserts by which did London’s trendy Chiltern Firehouse, and François Perret, the hotel’s pastry chef, it includes a pink-marble bar and a conservatory were superb, especially the chocolate dining room with grass cloth walls. The cooking mille-feuille with candied pecans. is outstanding, including dishes like oysters with After dinner we headed to Bar grilled lemon, and turbot with citrus fruits. 16 Rue Hemingway for a nightcap. On the way we Fabert, 7e. Tel. (33) 1-45-51-91-96. dropped into Salon Proust, with its ornate wooden moldings, sumptuous Aubusson Chez la Vieille carpet and Napoleon III-style armchairs. On the heels of his huge success in New York City Ceviche de Saint Jacques au caviar Although an attractive space for after- at Divellec / © JACQUES GAVAR with Le Coucou, Chicago-born, Paris-based chef noon tea, we found it a bit theatrical in Daniel Rose has revived one of the city’s most the evening, when the bookshelves are storied bistros with a small-plates format that includes dining at a long wooden bar or upstairs lit from within. A certain theatricality is in a boudoir-like dining room. Don’t miss the a signature of Despont’s, but overall he terrine de campagne and the blanquette de veau. appears to have been kept on a rather 1 Rue Bailleul, 1e. Tel. (33) 1-42-60-15-78. short leash, since the Ritz still looks like the Ritz, albeit with a color palette that is Le Petit Varenne subtly richer than the pastels that once For anyone wanting a good, simple, afordable prevailed. We also stepped outside to meal of well-cooked contemporary French food, see the magnificent new 21,500-square- this diminutive new bistro in the swanky 7th foot garden that Despont designed with landscape architect Jean Mus. Inspired Smoked eel at Le Petit Varenne arrondissement is an excellent choice. The menu changes often but runs to appealing dishes like by the garden of the nearby Palais Royal, chestnut soup with poached egg, pan-roasted chicken with Jerusalem artichokes their creation is a long rectangle with and mushrooms, and coconut panna cotta with clementine marmalade. 57 Rue de box-cut linden trees, white rosebushes Bellechasse, 7e. Tel. (33) 1-42-73-60-72. and trellised half-moon seating alcoves that would be a delightful place to linger. La Tour d’Argent In Bar Hemingway, it was a pleasure After a tumble into mediocrity, one of the most famous restaurants in Paris is back to renew my acquaintance with bartender on track with the arrival of acclaimed chef Philippe Labbé, who previously cooked Colin Field. The afable Mr. Field regaled at the Shangri-La Hotel and L’Arnsbourg in eastern France. Try dishes like langous- us with tales of his travels around the tines with raspberries, beets and lemon verbena, and scallops with caviar, white world, undertaken while the hotel was chocolate and lobster oil — if you don’t choose one of the restaurant’s famously closed. Field, who describes himself as numbered ducks. 15 Quai de la Tournelle, 5e. Tel. (33) 1-43-54-23-31. a “storyteller” as much as a barman, is famous for inventing new drinks, and he ore loves to explain the provenance of the Gastronomic entrepreneur Alain Ducasse has finally solved the “lunch problem” cocktails on Bar Hemingway’s menu. In bedeviling visitors to the Château de Versailles. His new restaurant in Pavillon honor of a recent visit to Honolulu, he Dufour makes it possible to get an excellent meal on the spot without trekking into concocted one called Waikiki. town. Try the foie gras with fig chutney, turbot with Béarnaise sauce, and La Reli- A major addition to the Ritz is the gieuse, a caramel choux pastry, for dessert. Château de Versailles, Pavillon Dufour, first Chanel-branded spa. The renovated 1st floor; Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles. Tel. (33) 1-30-84-12-96. indoor pool is surely now one of the loveli-

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT MARCH 2017 est in the world, and the spa’s “Le Massage the Rue du Pré-aux-Clercs (the second fitness center. Kult, the property’s restau- de Chanel” combines Western and Eastern with a table and two chairs), excel- rant, is under the supervision of Guil- techniques to great efect. The shopping lent lighting, a pair of armchairs, a laume Monnet, who oversees the very arcade that links the Place Vendôme side large armoire, olive-green toile de Jouy- popular modern French bistro L’Afable of the hotel to the Rue Cambon wing has inspired wallpaper, a very comfortable nearby. The menu runs to dishes like been completely rebuilt, with handsome king-size bed and framed black-and-white scallop carpaccio and butternut squash wooden cabinetry. photographs of Paris by well-known local soup to start, with mains such as lobster Back in our room, enjoying a fine view photographer Pierre-Elie de Pibrac. The risotto and herb-crusted rack of lamb with of the Parisian skyline, I reflected on all white-marble bath provided natural light, creamed chickpeas spiked with cumin. that we had seen and experienced. Funda- a soaking tub, a separate shower and Just a five-minute walk from the Café mentally, the Ritz seems unchanged. The a double vanity. de Flore, Le Saint- Hôtel à Paris ofers experience is still peerless, and the many The hotel has a wellness room for superior comfort in an ideal location at millions have been well-spent. Although massages, a steam room and a small a relatively modest price. H contemporary tastes tend toward infor- mality, I am sure that there is still demand Clockwise from top left: View from a Junior Suite, the hotel’s façade, Junior Suite, and our bath at Le Saint- Hôtel à Paris for this kind of sumptuous Parisian style.

he question I’m asked most frequently Tabout Paris is, Which are your favorite small hotels in Saint-Germain-des-Prés? — the Left Bank neighborhood that retains its perennial popularity among North Americans. I have long recommended the Hôtel d’Aubusson, L’Hotel, Hôtel de l’Abbaye and the Relais Christine (which will soon reopen after major renovations). But high demand at many times of the year means these properties are often booked up and are also able to charge stif rates. So, recently, when I was walk- ing down the Rue de l’Université, I was very interested to notice that the hotel Lenox, a good-value traditional hotel, had morphed into a new establishment called Le Saint- Hôtel à Paris. On investigation, I discovered that the property (which opened in January 2016) was the creation of owner and deco- rator Bertrand Plasmans, who combined three former hotels on the site: the Lenox,

the Saint Thomas d’Aquin and the Saint BATH PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER / Vincent. So we booked in for a short visit. Our stay was delightful from the moment HOTELS AT A GLANCE we arrived. Our room wasn’t ready, but we were invited to enjoy the woodburning Ritz Paris A98 fire in the lounge with the promise that LIKE Supremely elegant rooms, superb service, the best bar in Paris and the magnificent swimming pool. housekeeping would expedite its work, or DISLIKE The Ritz’s house-brand amenities lack the luxuriousness of those from, say, Hermès or Guerlain, and the to have breakfast. The latter turned out French-made Porthault linens are no longer to be seen. GOOD TO KNOW If you want to duck out for a good, simple meal, head for Au Coin des Gourmets (38 Rue du Mont Thabor, Tel. [33] 1-42-60-79-79), which serves excellent to be very good — Paris hotel breakfasts Vietnamese food in a pleasant setting with friendly English-speaking service. Deluxe Room, $1,450; Deluxe Junior are often ridiculously overpriced and of Suite, $2,100. 15 Place Vendôme, 1e. (33) 1-43-16-30-30. ritzparis.com middling quality — with locally baked bread and pastries, homemade jams and Le Saint- Hôtel à Paris A93 organic eggs cooked to order. LIKE Beautifully decorated rooms and fine location. DISLIKE The bar closes too early. GOOD TO KNOW The Upstairs our quiet and attractive hotel has bicycles for the use of its guests. Junior Suite, $600. 3 Rue du Pré-aux-Clercs, 7e. Tel. (33) 1-42-61-01-51. lesainthotelparis.com Junior Suite came with a writing desk, oak parquet floors, two small balconies preceding a rating, denotes an ofcially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. A Visit AndrewHarper.com for information on these and all of our hotel recommendations in Paris. overlooking the Rue de l’Université and

MARCH 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 LAST LOOK LAST WORD TERRA INCOGNITA

n recent years I have found myself to be the Irecipient of an unexpected degree of sympathy. “It must be really difcult for you,” people say, fixing me with a look of obvious concern. “After all, there’s really nowhere left. It’s all been discovered.” In truth, I have been known to get a little gloomy myself about the contemporary world’s lack of terrae incognitae. Which is why, a few weeks ago, I was extremely heartened to receive an invitation to lunch in New York from an acquaintance, James McBride. He wanted A curious European robin on Inchagoill Island, Lough Corrib, Ireland / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER to tell me, he said, about his latest project on the island of Sumba. As you might imagine, four NEW AND NOTEWORTHY decades of globe-trotting has equipped me with fairly extensive geographical knowledge. But Sumba? I’d never heard of it. I hastened to my Cousteau Cruises computer. Sumba, it turns out, is a sizable island The exceptionally stylish and luxurious riverboats operated by Aqua Expeditions located about 250 miles to the east of Bali. The have become established favorites of Hideaway Report readers. The two vessels, Aria Sumbanese speak a variety of languages, and Amazon and Aqua Mekong, take a small number of passengers — 32 and 40, respec- around a third of them practice an animist religion tively — on cruises to remote stretches of the Amazon and Mekong rivers. In 2017 called Marapu. Prominent individuals still receive and 2018, five weeklong voyages — two in Peru and three in Southeast Asia — will burials in megalithic tombs — think Stonehenge be accompanied by Jean-Michel Cousteau, the film producer and world-renowned — while the national pastime is called Pasola, champion of ocean conservation (and the son of legendary ocean explorer Jacques a game in which hundreds of horsemen charge Cousteau). Given the intimate size of the groups, passengers will have the opportu- one another and hurl wooden spears. Fatalities nity to get to know him personally. Each evening Cousteau will give a talk and then are frequent, apparently. At lunch, McBride introduce a screening of one of his award-winning documentaries. said that it was clear that I was not a surfer, because otherwise I would have heard of Sumba, Madagascar Diving Nirvana Many of the world’s coral reefs are in deep trouble, owing chiefly to illegal fishing (often with dynamite) and rising water temperatures brought about by global warm- ing. Fortunately, some of those in the western Indian Ocean remain untouched and virtually unexplored. Scuba enthusiasts will have a new mecca with the opening of Miavana, a 14-villa lodge on Nosy Ankao, the largest of five islands in a protected marine area of the northeastern coast of Madagascar. Designed by architects Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens, the talented duo behind my recommended North Island resort in the Seychelles, Miavana will ofer lemur trekking, helicopter tours, whale watching and fly-fishing, in addition to superlative diving. specifically a world-famous break there known as Occy’s Left. His own connection to the island, he explained, was as the partner of J. Christopher St. Kitts Transformed Burch, the New York billionaire best known as the The opening this spring of the Park Hyatt St. Kitts, a 78-room, 48-suite resort situ- founder, with his former wife, of the Tory Burch ated on an undeveloped stretch of golden sand, with views across The Narrows to the fashion label. McBride and Burch’s new resort, volcanic island of Nevis, is the Caribbean’s most anticipated debut. Besides the hotel, Nihiwatu, comprises more than 30 sumptuous the development includes The Marina at Christophe Harbour, which will ultimately villas and tree houses set on a remote 550-acre provide 250 berths, including no fewer than 50 for superyachts of up to 250 feet in estate. Aside from a mile and a half of white sand, length. St. Kitts is located midway between Antigua and St. Barths, currently two of the property ofers an open-air spa, a hilltop yoga the Caribbean’s principal sailing centers. A marina village is nearing completion, pavilion and horseback riding, plus exceptional with boutiques, cafés, residences and a Customs house. St. Kitts has long been one of big-game fishing for marlin and sailfish. And the sleepier Caribbean islands. Its slumbering days would appear to be numbered. surfing. At the end of an extremely cordial lunch, I took a stroll down Park Avenue and reflected on what a pleasure it was to discover that the world The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, still contains exotic and fascinating places that P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts us even I have never heard of. that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright 2017 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Copy Editor Stacy Hollister © RIBEIRODOSSANTOS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK /