This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected]. MARCH 2017 | Our 39th Year AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES BARONIAL GRANDEUR, EMERALD LANDSCAPES, FARM-TO-TABLE CUISINE COVER PHOTOGRAPH Ashford Castle / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER IRELAND ON THE UPSWING THIS MONTH eturning to Ireland has always been given a stunning makeover to the IRISH EXCURSIONS been a joy, even if visits in the tune of $75 million. After a blissful few days in County Mayo on the west coast, I drove down to Cork and then up to aftermath of the 2008 crash From New York, we flew into Shan- R Dublin. There I boarded the new Grand Hibernian tended to be rather sobering. The Great non, on the west coast, where we picked train for a three-day journey. ..........................1-7 Recession hit Ireland with a wallop, up a car for the 90-minute drive to Cong, ! Online: Dublin Pubs and Touring Itinerary leaving the once-vaunted Celtic Tiger in County Mayo. After zipping along a economy defanged and declawed. But on motorway toward Galway, we soon came our last trip, in 2013, I saw glimmers of to where the four-lane highway ended, PARIS UPDATE light: the recent debut of exceptional new and we found ourselves on a two-lane road Having been closed for four years, the Ritz Paris hotels such as Ballyfin in County Laois bordered by hedgerows. Thanks to the has finally reopened. I also discovered several and the emergence of new restaurants good signage, we reached our destination fine new restaurants and a number of stylish boutiques. .....................................................8-11 capitalizing on the country’s exceptional without difculty. With its thatched-roof meat, fish and produce. Now, at last, a cottages surrounded by forested hills, the Find video and more photography of our trips significant recovery appears to be under postcard-perfect village of Cong provided at AndrewHarper.com/hideaway-report. way: the Irish capital is bustling just as the setting for John Ford’s 1952 classic Andrew Harper travels anonymously and before, with an extensive urban light- movie, The Quiet Man. Nearby, Ashford pays full rate for all lodging, meals and rail system under construction; Dublin’s Castle stood on a 350-acre estate, as it related travel expenses. Since the launch of Westbury hotel has been beautifully has for close to 800 years. this newsletter, in 1979, the featured hotels renovated; and Ashford Castle, long a The original part of the castle dates to and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. favorite of Hideaway Report readers, has 1228, when the Anglo-Norman de Burgos Full-service travel planning is available to members at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Oak Hall, and Connemara lamb and soufflé at the George V Dining Room at Ashford Castle / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER LOUGH CORRIB CRUISE ne of the most interesting and enjoyable Oactivities at Ashford Castle was a boat tour of Lough Corrib aboard the 80-passenger Isle of Inisfree. The vessel’s articulate and knowledge- able captain told us that the lake contains a trove of underwater archaeological sites, including several vessels from the Viking days, among them the well-preserved Carrowmoreknock boat. (Bronze spearheads and a rare wooden spear have been recovered for conservation by the National Museum of Ireland.) The most famous of Lough Corrib’s 1,327 islands is Inchagoill Island, midway between Cong and Oughterard. As we approached, we enjoyed spectacular views of the Maumturks range, Joyce Country and the mountains of Connemara. Having landed to explore its ancient monastic settlements, we built it after defeating the local O’Connors. a patterned carpet and a plump cush- strolled among the ruins of the church of Three centuries later, in 1589, Sir Rich- ioned sofa. Welcoming touches included St. Patrick — which is thought to date from ard Bingham defeated the de Burgos and a complimentary bottle of Champagne either the sixth or the seventh century — and the constructed a fortified enclave. However, and a decanter of sherry. The bedroom 12th-century Hiberno-Romanesque Temple of the Saints, where the arched entryway is ringed the greatest expansion came in 1852, had the same color scheme and proved by still-discernible faces of holy men. One of the when the wealthy Guinness brewing comfortable, albeit rather snug, with tombs in the adjacent cemetery is believed to be family purchased the estate and added two ample storage in custom armoires and that of Muirgheas O’Nioc, archbishop of Tuam, large extensions. The Guinnesses deeded a generous chest of drawers. We had a who died in 1128. A small robin watched us with Ashford Castle to the Irish government minor problem with the bedside lighting, great curiosity and would not leave, even when in 1939, at which time it became a hotel. but our call for assistance brought an we approached. It was, our captain insisted, a The well-respected South African group immediate and satisfactory response. The soul returning to the site of its grave. Certainly, Red Carnation Hotels acquired the prop- principal marble bath provided a double the whole atmosphere was otherworldly. On erty in 2013. Overseeing its restoration, vanity and a combined soaking tub and the way back to Ashford, we were entertained company president Beatrice Tollman and shower; a second small bath came with by a singer from Cong, an elderly man with a fine architect Philippe Bonino were faced a walk-in shower stall. voice, who 64 years earlier had enjoyed his 15 minutes of fame as an extra in John Ford’s with considerable challenges. The project Ashford has several dining venues. The Quiet Man. entailed complete repointing of all the As a setting for a calorie-laden after- stonework, including 40 battlements; noon tea, the Connaught Room could not Isle of Inisfree, and the Hiberno-Romanesque Temple reinforcing almost 11,000 square feet of be bettered. The main George V Dining of the Saints / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER roofing with 30 tons of lead; replacing Room — the name comes from a visit to 800 windows; installing 130 chandeliers; the castle in 1905 by the Prince of Wales, and refurbishing all 82 rooms and suites. later King George V — is a dramatic space As you approach, the towers and with paneled walls, a coffered ceiling crenellations of the castle are an impres- and Waterford chandeliers. Executive sive sight. Alighting from our car, we chef Philippe Farineau combines classic were escorted into the great Oak Hall by French cuisine with outstanding local a tailcoated doorman, where we waited ingredients, many sourced from within briefly to check in. With its paneled 20 miles of Cong. My starter of wild Irish walls, magnificent central chandelier, pigeon with foie gras was superb, as was blazing log fire and library of more than the ensuing rack of Connemara lamb, 800 antiquarian books, the hall is both carved tableside, with roasted château imposing and inviting. potatoes, asparagus and a Paloise sauce. Once registered, we were accompa- The service was attentive, professional nied to our suite. This came with a jewel and friendly throughout. The adjacent box of a living room with a triptych of Prince of Wales Bar, with its perfect propor- windows looking out over Lough Corrib. tions and intricate wood detailing, is one Overall the lavish décor was a study in of the most beautiful bars I’ve ever seen. blue, with floral damask wall coverings, Informal meals can be taken at Cullen’s 2 HIDEAWAY REPORT MARCH 2017 Old tower in the gardens, and our suite at Ashford Castle / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Due to delays and diversions, the 165-mile drive from Ashford took longer than anticipated, so we were delighted to finally arrive at the gates to Ballymaloe, just outside the village of Shanagarry, about 30 minutes to the east of Cork. A winding driveway took us through fields and woodland up to the house, most of which dates to the early-19th century. The vine-clad façade, with a handsome blue door topped with a fantail window, looked extremely welcoming. The hotel’s 29 rooms, all individually decorated, come in a variety of sizes. Our so-called Large Room was decorated in traditional country house style, with striped wallpaper, chintz curtains and a beige carpet. The antique furniture included an armoire fronted with a at the Cottage on the grounds nearby. experts — especially during the mayfly dressing mirror, a writing desk and two Ashford’s makeover included the season at the end of May and beginning of armchairs by a window that overlooked addition of an impressive new spa. It June. We also enjoyed visits to the Harris’s the grounds. The bath had just been ofers treatment rooms with views across hawks in the hotel’s falconry school. redone with modern fixtures, though it the serene expanse of Lough Corrib. A Thanks to the lavish investment by provided only a combined shower and menu of facials, scrubs and detoxifying its new owners, Ashford Castle is now a tub. The property’s principal public space, wraps, plus aroma and marine therapies, magnificent property and one of the finest the living room, with its high ceilings and is complemented by a hammam and a country house hotels in Ireland. fireplace, proved a delightful spot for spectacular relaxation pool.