RRIZONR HIGHWAYS ., JANUARY • 1951 THIRTY-FIVE · cENTS -One ... S WE survey the bright and shining pages of a new volume and consider what might or might not be the bright and shining days of a new year, we would like to start off by ex­ mpressing to old friends and new our wishes for sunshine and happiness in Nineteen Fifty-One. May we face the year with HIGHWAYS courage, dignity and high resolve and may the year turn out well for our beloved land. May we all strive to be worthy of the bless­ VoL. XXVII No. 1 JAN. 1951 'ings that have been bestowed upon us, grateful and humble that we­ RAYMOND CARLSON, Editor our people-are among the favored of the e arth. GEORGE M. A VEY, Art Editor Our state starts off the new year with a new governor. Gentle readers, we introduce to you Howard Pyle a nd we are pleased to give LEGEND you a short sketch of the life and achievements of this interesting and "GRAND CANYON" . FRONT COVER pleasant man. It was not in the cards that h e should have been elected NOTED ARTIST, SwINNERTON, FINDS IN GRAND C ANYON FAVORITE SUBJECT. because : 1. he is a Republican and Arizona is an overwhelmingly Democratic state; 2. he is not a politician iri the respect that he has "BEYOND THE RANGE" 2 A POEM ABOUT A PROSPECTOR BY ONE ever b een actively engaged in political matters; and 3. he defeated WHO KNEW WELL WAYS OF THE WEST. one of the most popular office holders in the history of the state, State HowARD PYLE, GovERNOR . 4 Auditor Ana Frohmiller. That he was elected in spite of the seemingly I NTRODUCING NEW CHIEF EXECUTIVE unsurmountable obstacles that confronted him speaks eloquently of WHO GUIDES STATE FOR NEXT TEHM. his popularity and his ability. W e think you'll like him and be just as DESERT NESTS 8 impressed with him as.we are. I N WHICH WE VIS IT DWELLINGS OF The portfolio of paintings in the center of this book are by the noted 50ME OF OUR FEATHERED VISITORS. landscape artist Jimmy Swinnerton. Perhaps we should be more re­ BUFFALO ROBES ON THE HOOF 12 spectful and say "Mr. Swinnerton," but where ever you go in the PART OF HousE RocK VALLEY H ERD desert country, deep in Hopiland and the land of the Navajos, his IS NOW LIVING IN LUSH H UACHUCAS. friends refer to him in the familiar manner and with such affection SwrNNERTON 16 that it doesn't sound right to refer to him otherwise. He's along in PRESENTING LIFE & PAINTINGS OF AN years but wonderfully youthful. If you had spent the longest part of AHTIST WHO KNOWS ALL OF THE WEST. a summer night sitting on the porch of Harry Goulding's place in FORT H UACHUCA E NTERPRISES 28 Monument Valley as we did, listening to him tell his tales of the country PICTURESQUE FORT HAS BEEN TURNED INTO A CENTER OF H01"1ES & BUSINESS . he loves so well, you would know why he is so popular and you would know why we are so proud to have this opporhmity of telling you ARIZONA AND THE CrvrL WAR 34 A CHAPTER FROM A NEW HISTORY OF about him and showing you a few of his paintings. STATE WRITTEN BY NOTED HISTORIAN . Within you will find a chapter from a new history of Arizona written YOURS SINCERELY . 40 by Dr. Rufus Kay Wyllys of Arizona State College at Tempe : "Arizona­ SEVERAL POEMS AND LETTERS DEALING The History of a Frontier State." W e would like to emphasize the im­ WITH TOPICS OF INTEREST TO READERS. portance of this book, which deserves a place on every western book­ HOWARD PYLE shelf. It is also important to us because it marks the first title issued Governor of Arizona by a new Arizona publishing firm, Hobson & H err of Phoenix, an ambi­ tious and aggressive organization which hopes to fill our need for a ARIZONA HIGHWAY COMMISSION Brice Covington, Chairman . . Kingman regional publishing firm. H . Earl Rogge, Vice-Chairman . Clifton An unusual civic endeavor is explained this month in our article Louis Escalada, Member . Nogales entitled: "Fort Huachuca Enterprises." Upon the e nding of World War Clarence A. Calhoun, Member . M esa John M. Scott, M ember . . . . Show L ow II the government gave up the training camp at Fort Huachuca. A J. l'vfelvin Goodson, Exec. Secretary Phoenix group of enterprising citizens in Cochise County decided the Fort W. C . L efeb vre, State Hwy. Engr. Phoenix would make a splendid resort and residential center with ample hous­ R. G. Langmade, Special Counsel Phoenix ing at low rates, wonderful climate, fine scenery, and with every pos­ AHJZONA HIGHWAYS is published monthly by the sible convenience for the visitor and even adequate floor space and Arizona Highway Department a few miles north equipment for small businesses and factories. We of the confluence of the Gila and Salt in Arizona. offer it with the Address: AmzoNA I-lIGHWAYS, Phoenix, Arizona. hope that perhaps the Fort might have in its many ramifications some $3.00 per year in U . S. and possessions; $3.50 service or accommodation for which some of our readers might be elsewhere. 35 cents each. Entered as second­ class matter Nov. 5, 1941 at Post Office in Phoe­ looking. Our short article doesn't half cover the subject, but we be­ nix, under Act of March 3, 1879. Copyrighted, lieve we give you enough of a picture of the Fort to indicate what is 1951, by Arizona Highway Department. offered there. To close our pages we take you on a desert jaunt looking for birds' Allow five weeks for change of addresses. Be sure to send in old as well as new address. nests, our guides being Ruth and Harry Crockett. As long as there are JAHN~TYLER birds there will always be music in the world.-R. C.

OPPOSITE p AGE FRONT COVER "THE BEAUTIFUL CoLOHADo" BY RAY ATKESON. The Colorado River "GRAND CANYON" FROM A PAINTING BY JAMES SwrNNERTON. Jimmy is seldom referred to as "beautiful," but the adjective aptly describes Swinnerton faithfully portrays the grandeur and majesty of the w estern it in places. The study here was taken in southern Utah one day when scene. His favorite subject h as been the Grand Canyon, which he has the world and the river were in a placid mood. Further south the river been painting for forty years. Primarily noted for his delightful car­ gets riled up as it chews its deep way through the great canyons of toons, Swinnerton is recognized as one of the fi nest landscape artists northern Arizona. in the West.

Discussing ranch problems. At a local get-together.

Governor and Mrs. Pyle and daughters, Mary Lou and Virginia Ann, live in Tempe, where Mrs. Pyle was born and where the governor's parents settled when they came to Arizona in 1925. Keeping up with his active teen-age daughters is a chore which even his arduous duties as the chief executive will not cause the elevated father to neglect.

GOVERNOR

PHOTOGRAPHS BY HERB MCLAUGHLIN

Arizona starts the brave, new year with a new governor-Howard Pyle-who has, among others, two distinctions: being the youngest governor ever to take office in this state and being a Republican. It is in no way betraying a confidence when we point out that Arizona is a Democratic state, but laying aside all reference to such mundane subjects as political affiliations, whether Republican or Democrat, you have to admit our new governor is a darned nice guy. H e's an easy subject to write about because his private life has been so full of achievements and his own has been such a distinguished career you do not have to dig deep to find nice things to say about him. Our several subscribers who live in Russia ( how such an arrogantly capitalistic journal as ARIZONA HIGHWAYS seeps through the iron curtain is always a source of wonderment to us), our many subscribers in England, India, Australia, Ger­ many, Canada, and our scattered subscribers in such isolated and ~fascinating places as Cyprus, Iran, Ethiopia, Burma, Borneo and the Fiji Islands can hear our governor next Easter morning narrating the world-famed Easter Sunrise Services at Grand Canyon, a beautiful and solemn religious service broadcast throughout the world by NBC. He originated this broadcast seventeen years ago. Each year he produces and narrates it so that it has become one of the major an­ nual world radio presentations. He will continue this program as governor, as he will also continue his vivid descriptions of the Pow Wow at Flagstaff each Fourth of July. H e added to his stature as a personality in radio during World War II. In 1945 he was commissioned to do a series of broadcasts from the World Security Conference in San Francisco, a notable success for himself as an announcer and interpreter of world conditions, and then he served in the Pacific as a war corres­ pondent, interviewing Arizonans in the services, and giving the world dramatic radio coverage of some of the notable events in the Pacific operations.

PAGE FIVE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 Arizona's new governor was born in Sheridan, Wyoming, Arizona Republic) . In developing literature for his home March 25, 1906. His father, the Reverend T. M. Pyle, who is town, his thoughts turned more and more to advertising and Millions of radio listeners throughout now pastor of the Community Church at Buckeye, was a promotion as a career. He became a member of the classified the world thrill to Howard Pyle's de­ Baptist minister and as he moved from church to church the and display advertising staffs of the Phoenix newspaper and scription of Easter Sunrise at Grand family lived successively in Texas, Oklahoma, Nebraska and when the newspaper bought the radio station KFAD ( now Canyon. As governor he will continue Arizona. At eleven Howard was janitor for his father's KTAR) he joined the staff. Radio was his field. He had the narrations of this inspiring event. church at the munificent salary of $2.00 a week. His duties voice and the personality for it, and his business acumen consisted not only of janitor work but keeping walks free was such that he eventually became production manager, from snow and having fires built and the church warm long vice-president and stockholder of one of the most successful before the gathering of the congregation. radio operations in the west. The family was not wealthy ( it is a strange commentary Shortly after he entered radio work he was married to on our civilization that ministers in small communities sel­ The popular announcer Lucile Hanna, a native of Tempe, and a member of one of dom are wealthy) but the household was a happy and con­ at KT AR microphones. Arizona's distinguished pioneer families. Mr. and Mrs. Pyle tented one, deeply spiritual. As a son of a minister the boy, and their two daughters, Mary Lou, 13, and Virginia Ann, Howard was subjected to intense religious instruction, and 9, live in Tempe. probably by his early teen years he had read the Bible more Howard Pyle, described as the "man behind Arizona's than most people ever do. The lessons of his youth never best known voice," became one of the "best known" per­ forgotten, and today Mr. Pyle plays an active part in the sonalities in Arizona through his masterful handling of affairs of his church. Any of the millions of listeners through­ "Arizona Highlights," a program sponsored by the Valley out the world who have had the satisfying experience of National Bank through which for years he brought Arizona listening to Easter Sunrise Services at Grand Canyon cannot to Arizonans. Also, by virtue of this program, Howard Pyle fail but be deeply impressed by Mr. Pyle's sincerity and de­ came to know Arizona and Arizonans . . . farmers in the votion in narrating this annual religious event. fields, business executives, public personalities, cattlemen on In discussing his boyhood, Governor Pyle says: "I was their ranches, noted visitors, lone prospectors away out in lucky! When I was a kid there were always odd jobs after the hills, the Indians on their reservations, miners under­ school and on Saturday for boys who wanted and needed ground, children in school-in short, the whole grand state work. The pay wasn't much by today's standards, but the has been made to live through the microphone descriptions lessons learned were invaluable." He was active and in­ of Howard Pyle, the sponsoring station KTAR and affiliated dustrious ... working on a farm hoeing com and beans for stations of the Arizona Broadcasting Company. 25 cents a day and keep . . . a paper route ... $1.00 a week with six deliveries ... clean-up boy in a garage. He thought This is the background of the man who is Arizona's new then he was destined to be a mechanic, but singing in his governor. A citizen in the finest sense of the word who has father's choir turned his thoughts to voice-culture and into never failed to support any good public cause . . . a con­ the training of his voice went all of his hard-earned funds. spicuous success in his own field of radio . . . a pleasant, In 1924, the year he was graduated from high school, he ap­ sincere and friendly gentleman ... a man whose private and peared on radio for the first time ... as a promising singer. public life is without the slightest blemish ... a serious stu­ In the fall of 1925 the family moved to Arizona. The dent of public affairs .. . an adopted son of a state to which next five years were the formative years in the life of Howard her own native sons could not be more devoted ... a man Pyle. He made his adopted state his own, and he came to with youth, vigor and determination ... know it well. He was traveling timekeeper for the Southern In short, it would not take a seer to predict that the ad­ Pacific, joined a real estate firm in Tempe, was elected sec­ ministration of Howard Pyle will bring only profit, healthy retary of the Tempe Chamber of Commerce, and became expansion and good for the state and her citizens, and added Tempe correspondent for the Arizona Republican ( now the lustre to the name of Arizona.-R. C.

As correspondent, Pyle (in background) As a war correspondent, radio section, Arrival of Japanese surrender plane is Our new governor was on hand with camera to record watches a landing made in Pacific zone. Haward Pyle interviews Gen. Wainwright. historic event described by Haward Pyle. the final scenes of the Japan's surrender to our forces.

PAGE SIX • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 STORY AND P ICTURES BY HARRY L. AND RUTH CROCKETT

While it is still winter, nesting on the desert in Arizona the nest added protection. is getting under way. This seems more reasonable when you The eggs are bluish green with brown splotches on the realize that most annual plants are mature by mid-March large end. However, the eggs found in the desert nests are and perennials are d ropping their seeds by the end of May. much paler than those in the irrigated areas. A complete The Costa's hummingbirds are courting early in Febru­ clutch is five e ggs and those are often ready for incubation ary. Their courtship is a spectacular affair. She takes a place early in April. on a twig, usually at the side of a tree, and not too much in House finches do not share t he incubation duties, for the the open, while he takes to the air in a series of U dives. He male's bright colors would be noticeable to their enemies. reaches a height of eight to a hundred feet, turns and dives The female is a neutral gray in c olor, and will sit tight when to a point just above her, ascending and diving, again an

This cactus wren was feeding young on April 2. They consumed great quanti­ ties of insects befo re they left the nest. The adults spent most of the daylight hours poking insects down their throats.

ship, he leaves the nest building, incubation of the eggs, The cactus wrens are nest specialists. They build a shelter feeding and training o f the young to her. Mrs. Costa's nest nest for winter, starting it when t he first cool evenings of is made of plant down, bound together with spider webs. October remind them that winter is coming. This nest makes She decorates or camouflages the outside surface with bits of a migration unnecessary; the days are usually temperate; leaves, flowers of the aster t ype, and other material giving it only at night does the temperature drop so t hey need pro­ a rough, bunchy appearance. tection. It is a tunnel of spun straw, lined with material that The house finches show favoritism for the chollas when is available. Feathers are used during hunting season. A fter they nest on the desert. They choose a spot toward the top sheep have grazed through their area, they gather wool that where the angle between the trunk and branches gives ample has been caught on barbed wire and thorns. Cotton is space to construct the nest. The nest is made of green grasses. f@Vored, when the nest is in flying distance of a cotton field. The first grasses are laid between two branches, making a Any of these soft materials used as a padding, makes a warm pad over the spines and forming the base for the nest. The shelter. cup is then constructed on this with grass stems placed in a The first week in April is the time cactus wren nesting is swirl, until the rim is of the desired height. These nests are at its height. The incubation nest is similar to the shelter built quickly and are still green when completed, but are left nest, although generally lighter in construction. N ot being to dry and cure while the p air go through a short courting satisfied with one nest at this time, two or three are built in period. In the cholla blanca the grass so nearly matches the the vicinity. The spares are called dummy nests or cock color of the cactus that the nest looks like part of it, giving nests. The number of nests lead the early bird observers to

The house finch shows a favoritism for the chollas when they n est on the desert. The cup is constructed of green grasses. It is built quickly and then allowed to cure.

PAGE NINE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 This canon wren built nest in side of saguaro. Costa's hummingbird nest is made of plant down. Brooding nest of Arizona verdin is often in cholla. \Vestern lark sparrow shows preference for canyon sites. think the cactus wrens nested in colonies. The spare nests after hatching, but observation shows the young are success­ without blotches. found in greater numbers when the mistletoe, the variety serve to confuse their enemies and are used as shelters ancl fullv raised in these nests. The gnatcatchers are tiny fellows, little larger than the which is a parasite on the trees of the desert, has been bounti­ roosting places for the young after they leave the incuba­ The giant or Saguaro cactus with its great variety of common hummingbird, although they look more like mini­ ful. These black fellows, with the high loose crest, build tion nest. Cactus wrens select a spot at the top of the chollas, shapes and twists, furnishes sites for many birds. The one ature mocking birds. The plumbeous gnatcatchers nest late their nests in the desert trees. These nests, usually well con­ but also build in mesquite, iron-wood, and palo verde trees. most noticed is the Gila woodpecker. These woodpeckers in April. Their structures, similar to but larger than hum­ cealed, seem small and insignificant in comparison with the The third anosit a great pile of sticks, some as large tion, he is the small brown wren that sings with a burst of Gambel's quail is a ground nester, utilizing a clump of The mourning doves build on the desert in three loca­ as a man's finger. This platform is then rounded up with a ringing notes, on the decending scale. Their choice of nest­ grass or similar cover for the nest, which is comparatively tions. The tree sites, where a few sticks are laid across the rim, and lined with grasses. They lay two to four white eggs, ing sites is very erratic. We have found them in the banks large. The ground birds have a high mortality, so have de­ fork of two branches, with practically no lining. Often you blotched with several shades of brown. Their habit of laying of washes and in buildings. The last nest we found was in veloped the trait of laying a large clutch of eggs. The female can look up from under the tree and see the two white eggs a new layer of sticks and a new lining, on the old nest be­ a giant cactus. The cavity was made by an injury to the quail deposits as many as nineteen eggs. She does the incu­ through the bottom of the nest. A second site, on the top of fore housekeeping at the old stand, seems characteristic. cactus, and holes between the exposed cactus ribs were bation, but the male will take over in case an accident pre­ a caved-in cactus wren's nest, is converted by adding the Several years of observing red-tailed hawks nests brought utilized by the wrens as entrances. Their eggs are white, vents her. The young, as is the case with most birds that usual few sticks. The third preference for a nest site is the surprisl'.)s. At times, other birds confused the issue by taking well covered with spots of brown and lilac, and are laid in a have been ground nesters for many generations, are able to ground. These nests are usually built between two rocks, over earlier, and the eggs or young of the great horned owl nest of small sticks, leaves, grass, and feathers. follow the parents a few hours after hatching. The male is a eighteen or twenty inches apart. This appears to be a danger­ were found in the nests that in previous years had cradled The phainopeplas, among the few birds that carry the good parent and works diligently to provide a living and to ous location for a bir

Desert sparrow builds nest under bush or near ground. Hungry baby house finches clamor to be fed. Mourning doves often utilize nests of cactus wrens. Mourning doves sometimes nest on ground in desert. beasts, none of them weighing less than a thousand pounds will be the carrying capacity of the range, the idea being that and the bulls probably tipping the scales at around 17,000 with a smaller number, there will always be a surplus of pounds, were galloping towards me. My thoughts sped by feed even in years of drought. with jetlike speed. "Mr. Morrow-told-you-that-they-wouldn't­ According to the number of tourists streaming through attack-a-car." "Yes," I answered myself, "but-how-do-I-know­ the gates of the Fort, all of them with the avowed intention that-they-can-even-see-the-car. They're coming fast and their of seeing the buffalo, it won't be too long until this becomes heads are down. By the time they see me it's going to be too one of the attractions of the West. During the past ninety late. And the book says that when a buffalo comes at you days one hundred cars from thirty-two states checked in at with its head down and its tail up, you'd better plan to be the gate. ,,,, , some other place and quick." My inner voices raced on Ralph Morrow is a man whose personality, voice and while I sat petrified. "It wouldn't be sporting to leave the actions all inspire confidence, not only in the humans with folks without a car. Oh, Gee! I can't sit here with those whom he deals, but also among the wild animals. He has thinas getting closer and closer and heading directly for me. studied and worked among the buffalo so long that I firmly Wh~t'll I do? I know! I'm going! I can't stand this and believe he understands their language or else he uses a sign they're almost here. Find the starter-the brake! Step on language, as the beasts usually do just what he intends them the gas! I'm moving! Wonder what the folks think to see me to. So, because of this knmvledge, it is he who is called upon leaving. Well, I don't care, I'm not going to sit here and be when these animals are tq be moved from one grazing place ground to bits." The car jumped forward up the rough road. to another. · But looking in the rear vision mirror I saw that the buffalo So Mr. Morrow went in 1949 to House Rock Valley in had turned just before they had gotten to the spot where the northern Arizona and trucked back 114 heifers and cows and car had so recently been parked. What a relief! as I saw three large bulls. House Rock Valley is a desert basin fifty them sweep past without a look in my direction. My family miles by forty miles with natural barriers making it a good and friends looked rather disgusted but nothing was said buffalo range. It was here that Theodore Roosevelt main­ when they reached the car. Later that same day we did tained a hunting cabin and it was he who financed the driv­ manage to get within fifty feet of this same herd and the ing of the first buffalo herd into House Rock Valley in a photographers got their pictures. desperate attempt to build up the herd that had been started WESTEHN WAYS The grass is deep and the living is easy for the buffalo transplanted to the expansive Huachucas in Southern Arizona. During our trip and while we were waiting for conditions by two men by the name of Owens and Buffalo Jones. It was to be just right for picture taking, Ralph Morrow gave us a with Buffalo Jones that Teddy used to slip away from the good bit of information concerning the Fort, the history of arduous duties of state and go lion hunting. buffalos and the reason for bringing some of them to this These animals which we have been calling buffalo are scenic spot in Arizona. in reality the American Bison and are a larger animal than It is only recently that these Huachuca Mountain slopes its European relative and is darker in color. have been inhabited by buffalo. It was in 1877 that Camp The massive development of the head and forequarters ON THE HOOF Huachuca came into being. Located high on the northern compared with the hinder part is what distinguishes therh slope of the mountains, the soldiers had a wonderful vantage from the other members of the cattle tribe. The great gr'owth point from which to watch the Apache signal fires in the of shaggy hair on the head with its huge shaggy beard is a Dragoon Mountains far to the east. Later, it was the black familiar sight to every American who has seen it on the buf­ smoke of the railroads that they watched as the trains crept falo nickel. This shaggy hair is also on the neck and shoulders As a child I learned buffalo was a word that started with I looked again, and the bushes were moving in a single file slowly across the barren desert wastes bringing with them while the hindquarters and lower part of the back and sides the letter "B" and that buffalo were animals that roamed weaving slowly between the rocks and oak trees. the civilization that was so much needed in this new land. remain smooth. The horns are set low down on the side of through the Indian country way out in the west. I neither Starting the motor, Mr. Morrow remarked, "We'll go over In 1881, a permanent fort was established but unlike so many the head and are comparatively small and curved while the doubted nor questioned. If I had seen one in a zoo I probably closer." Of course I thought that we'd sit in the car and wait of our old army posts throughout the nation, it has not been muzzle is sho1;t and blunt. · · would have remarked that it was big and that would have for awhile. He had told us that often, if you'd keep real allowed to fall into ruin, and was used during both World The coat of the bison is at its best in November and De­ closed the subject. But now that I live in southeastern Ari­ quiet, the buffalo would get curious and come close. Driving \Vars I and II as a training center for colored troops. Ap­ cember. By March it has become weatherbeaten and shabby, zona and only a few miles from Fort Huachuca, it is possible into a side road we found that sitting was not his intention proximately 30,000 individuals were housed here including and shedding begins. For the next three months the old coat for me to buzz up to the Fort in my car and drive to within at all as he stopped the car and asked us to get out. J\fotion­ soldiers and civilians during the last war. a few feet of where herds of wild buffalo are grazing. And ing to us he said, "You go over there to the left under that hangs in rags, and the animal presents a most d~lapidated ap­ Many famous people have been stationed at Fort Hua­ if I so desire I can get out and walk to within picture taking big tree and my wife and I will circle in back of the buffalo pearance. It is at this time that thyy are plagued o'y mosqui­ chuca including one of the greatest generals of our time, and prickly grasses. Therefore they are constantly distance. Of course when I do this they usually turn away and try to drive them towards you so that you can get a toes, ticks John J. Pershing, who came here as a young Lieutenant. And from me and I get a tail-end view. Now don't think for one picture at close range." That was when I discovered that I scratching against trees and boulders and wallowing in the at one time the band music, which is so much a part of mili­ minute that these animals are in an enclosure and that I poke was not properly shod for an expedition that meant walking mud if there is any to be found. The topography of the We~t tary life was under the direction of the father of Fiorello La my camera through a rail or wire fence. No, we're all in over rough ground so I sat back in the car, somewhat dis­ was greatly changed by these habits; buffalo wall(!WS became Guardia. these mountains together come what may. Just the brilliant gruntled, and watched my friends walk nonchalantly to­ deep, smooth saucers in the earth while rocks _and boulders The grounds of this historic fort comprise 76,000 acres of sky for our roof and the boundaries so far as can be seen the ward the herd with nothing more for protection than a were worn smooth by the constant scratching of the herds. the most beautiful country in southern Arizona. But in natural ones of trees and mountains. camera. Shortly after this the buffalo, like so many animals Many trees that were in their path were killed by having March, 1949, the Fort including 12,000 acres was transferred It was on one of these trips when :Mr. Ralph Morrow, the and people, decided to do the unexpected and came in my their bark worn off and the first telegraph poles erected were to the State of Arizona to be used as a base for the National Game Range Supervisor; had invited a few of us to go with direction rather than where they were supposed to go. knocked down by the constant scratching of the itching Guard. At the same time about 35,000 acres were alloted to him to the section of the Fort where the buffalo are most You can imagine my consternation and if you'll pardon beasts. the Arizona Game and Fish Commission. This section, likely to be found. After driving for a few miles through the my candor, by horror, when I saw thundering toward me, Among the millions of individual buffalos a fe'Y, years ago, partially grazing land and partly mountainous, is to be a gently rolling hills, he stopped. His keen eyes scanned the not one buffalo, but what looked like 1,000. ( I found out later the hide or "robe" as it was termed, exhibited inany color permanent game area for the buffalo that are being brought landscape for a few minutes, then he said, "There they are, that there were only 76! ) Their massive heads were down, varieties. There were black, blue, beaver, buckskin, and here for scientific study and research in handling on range over there," and pointed to the lower slopes of the mountains. their tails waving briskly in the air, and their hoofs throwing white. Roman Nose,.. the great Cheyenne chief, liad a magni­ land not being disturbed by livestock. Six hundred buffalo "Aren't those just bushes?" I asked. "Well, I've never up clods of dirt. I never dreamed that a person could think ficent pure white robe, which he called hi~ "great m~dicin~," yet seen bushes walk," was his dry comment. Sure enough, of so many things in so short a time as I did while those WELDON F. HEALD

PAGE TWELVE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 IVAN J. MASHEK JERRY MCLAIN PHIL STITT There is thunder in the air as cowboys herd the buffalo in Houserock Valley. A defiant calf is gathered for Huachuca range. In single file the buffalo go to water hole.

and which he was wearing when he fell before Forsyth's plodding creatures that they can't run. They have been the wool of the animal's back. At night it made its bed in a Thousands of animals were killed for meat, hides and pure troops. known to tire out three sets of horses and run nearly forty hollow of wool just behind the horns. wanton sport. The completion of the Union Pacific cut the It has been pretty well established that the bison is miles in a single day. This remarkable endurance comes from Early in the sixteenth century, Cortez visited the zoo at huge buffalo herd in two and from then on the, slaughter polygamous, the breeding season being from June to Sep­ the fact that they have exceptionally large hearts and lungs. Montezuma, the Aztec Emperor, and he described the animal was ruthless. Even canned buffalo tongues found a ready tember and the gestation period is the same as for cattle. The These buffalo at Fort Huachuca seemingly have no desire he saw there as "a rare Mexican bull with a hump like a market. The southern herd was totally exterminated and by cows do not breed until their third year and have been to wander, but in their wild days they were forever moving camel's and hair like a lion's." This was the first description 1895 only 800 of the northern herd remained. known to breed until about twenty-five years of age. The either south or north according to the season in search of of our buffalo, or bison, by a white man. It is estimated that Some 300 or 400 settled in Yellowstone National Park, average time is from four to fifteen years. Their life span better grazing. Moving in single file sometimes there would on our own plains of North America then there were ap­ where they were protected by the United States Government. is fifteen years with some having been known to live for be an army of thousands. The trails thus formed usually proximately fifty million of these "rare Mexican bulls." A larger remnant survived in Canada, some of which are thirty-five years. followed the shortest and easiest route. In fact engineers They were the main source of food and clothing for the preserved in Banff National Park, while a still greater purely During the mating season the males and females live to­ frequently used buffalo trails as guides in building the early . native tribes of the prairie regions and although the great wild herd exists in the uninhabited wastes of the northwest. gether in respectable domesticity but in the fall they divide railroads. prairies were the bison's natural home, the original range Occasionally bison have been crossed with domestic cat­ for a time into separate herds. In those early days large numbers of bison were killed started almost as far east as the Atlantic coast. They roamed tle, the resulting hybrid, called cattalo. At birth the calves weigh approximately fifty pounds and by prairie fires, quicksands and thin ice on the rivers. Im­ through the forested regions, across mountains to the Mis­ With a start I came back from the past, realizing that are light brown or yellow in color, assuming the dark brown mense herds stampeded and the animals would trample one sissippi, then to Texas and Northern Mexico, over the Rocky Ralph Morrow had finished with his fascinating story and of the adult in their second year. They are able to drink another or anything that stood in their path. If the leaders Mountains to Utah and Idaho. Westward they spread to was pointing to the watering trough by the side of the road, water immediately and can graze in about five days. Seeing tried to stop before quicksands or other hazards the mo­ Canada, through Alberta and British Columbia to the bleak where a little calf was sniffing around the edges. The trough the calves grazing you might be fooled into thinking that mentum of the herd driving on behind frequently knocked shores of the great Slave Lake. was so high that he couldn't reach the water. He seemed to they were some strange kind of cattle, for the hump does them down to provide a living bridge for the remainder. Europeans, too, were familiar with the bison. Poles think it over, then after a little more investigation he very not appear until they are yearlings. "The roaring and rushing sound one of these vast herds hunted them extensively late in the 17th century. During the calmly stood up on h i_s hind legs and hooking his front legs The buffalo is a solicitous parent. In the olden days when make crossing a river may sometimes in a still night be first World War the bison were slaughtered for food and at over the top of the trough proceeded to satisfy his thirst. danger threatened, the males formed a ring with lowered heard for miles," wrote Washington Irving. the close of the war they had been nearly exterminated, with On the way back to Mr. J\forrow's house I asked him heads to guard against wolves and other aggressors and have One of the most dangerous sports was hunting buffalo as the exception of a few small herds that had been preserved what would happen when the herd numbered more than the been known to travel for miles in this formation until the they were liable to stampede in the direction of the hunter. in the Lithuanian forests by the former Russian Government. alloted six hundred. His reply startled me. "Well," he said, young could be gotten to a place of safety. Experienced hunters knew enough to pick off the leader of Buffalos are found in Africa ranging from the Cape to the "after that number is reached they will be killed off and if The male bison packs around a weight of about two the herd, for a leaderless herd stopped dead until another equator. A small species is found in West Africa and an you have any friends who would like to pick out their buffalo thousand pounds but his lady friend manages to keep her leader stepped out of the ranks. Then the hunter would pick entirely different variety lives in the Congo region. The In­ robe on the hoof, are good shots and who have a hunting weight down to about half that amount. Both sexes are off the new leader, and so on down the line.

PAGE FOURTEEN • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 BY MARTIN LITTON Jimmy Swinnerton's grandfather didn't believe in giving advice to children. Still, at the age of eight Jimmy seemed to be enough of a man to make good use of some serious

guidance by his elders. So during one of the man-to-man talks in which they exchanged NAVAJOLAND confidences, the old man promised that this first "don't" to the boy would also be the last: · "Never trust a Piute!" The elder Swinnerton was a Forty-Niner who found gold at Dutch Flat, California, and then went east to fetch his family. The mining property in the Sierra was eventu­ ally exchanged for Santa Clara Valley land so that his sons, James, Silas, and William, could attend the College of the Pacific. While he went on to gain fame in the Valley with his pioneering in the prune-grow­ ing industry, the three sons wasted no time getting their careers under way, two of them as newspapermen. William was editor of a Santa Clara newspaper when he was eight­ teen years old, and James, at nineteen, went to Eureka and founded the Humboldt Star. It was at Eureka, on November 13, 1875, that Jimmy was born. A few months later s, -/89:2,. his mother died. His father went on to succeed as a lawyer, and to become a judge of the superior court in Stockton. Most of Jimmy's rearing was left to the grandparents. Swinnerlon's little California Jimmy grew up sharing his grandfather's enthusiasms and glorying in endless tales weather bear was one of early cartoons in American papers. of the Mother Lode and of the redskin-ridden plains to the east of the Sierras. Together

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DESERTED DESERTED :MOONRISE :MOONRISE they would inspect ore samples saved from the old Grass Valley claim, and secretly plot escape from unsympathetic Grandma to the magic mountains where untold bonanzas awaited them. After the death of his grandmother, Jimmy went back to his father, who had re­ married. Unable to get along with his stepmother, he ran away from home at the age of fourteen and went to San Francisco to make his own way. He became an apprentice harness-racing driver at the old Lucky Baldwin stables. His worried father finally found him at the Bay District Track, and took him aside for a long and serious conference on his future. Judge Swinnerton, guided by his own experience, advised his son not to go to college, not to become a lawyer, and, above all, not to be a newspaperman. Of three likely careers they considered-art, music, and writing-Jimmy chose art right then and there. His father put him in the California Art School in San Francisco. In his classes, where Maynard Dixon was a fellow student, Jimmy took to caricatur­ ing his instructors. Unpopular as his cartoons were with their subjects, they were re­ garded with an appreciative eye by young \Villiam Randolph Hearst, who was just starting the San Francisco Examiner. Hearst hired Swinnerton as a caricaturist and cartoonist at a time when a two-column cut was something extraordinary. That was fifty-nine years ago, and Jimmy has been with Hearst's King Features SynNew Mexico, and southern Utah. He found his most compelling subjects in the northern Arizona scenery. The Grand Canyon was a favorite headquarters ( indeed, as an artist's subject it was later "willed" to Swinnerton by Thomas Moran at a banquet at El Tovar), and it pro­ vided the substance for the series that has brought him more acclaim than anything else-Canyon Kiclclies. Swinnerton was concerned over the horror with which the society of the time re­ garded life in the outdoors, especially in tl1e western deserts. Canyon ( not Kanyon, thank heaven! ) Kiclclies was created to dispel the bogeys usually associated with the­ shunned country that he had found so friendly. The little Indians were the ideal illustra­ tions of children's natural kinship with Nature, for from birth they are taught that the creatures of the wild are their brothers, and are not to be feared. Thus it was wholly logical for the Kiclclies to meet and play with every kind of bird and beast that lived in their homeland, and to carry on their absorbing activities oblivious to the heat, cold, drought, and awful storms that their white cousins were conditioned to dread. Without Lillie Jimmy and Beans aN? oldest comic characters in preaching, Swinnerton caught up the enviable, enriching fatalism of the Hopis and, little existence in U. S. papers by little, injected it into the lives of his millions of readers. Canyon Kiddies brought still drawn by originator.

PAGE TWENTY-FIVE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 SMOKE TREES IN BLOOM the happiness of the children of Nature into a world that took itself too seriously. The At Keet Seel, Cobb blossomed out in a fancy purple robe. of the fun of painting. In Swinnerton's opinion, detail is Swinnerton influence is strong in such recent animated cartoons as Walt Disney's pro­ Swinnerton warned that such a get-up would bring charming and useful, and Nature takes care of the balance duction of Bambi. out the terrible Yei-a Navajo evil spirit. Whether because between delicate and bright colors. He regards as nervy and It was at the Grand Canyon that Swinnerton first knew the Navajos. He recalls how this devil went into action or because the horse was fright­ conceited the practice of setting a pallette the night before they used to pass through Big Jim Canyon, near the South Rim, when taking hides to ened by the humorist's flapping green slicker, the next morn­ starting to work and then trying to fit Nature to the pallette. Supai for tanning. While waiting for the work to be done, they lived off the Havasupais, ing Cobb was bucked off his mount. Dazed but apparently He is a man who might be expected to dismiss "move­ then paid for the tanning and promptly started gambling to win their pay back again. rational, he was helped back into the saddle. Afterward he ments" in art with a laugh, but he thinks that all of them have The Supais never seemed to realize that they were working for nothing. could remember nothing of the incident, so the party con­ made worthwhile contributions that are likely to remain long It was dangerous for white men to travel in the Navajo country when Swinnerton cluded that he had remained unconscious for some time after after the school or movement itself is forgotten. With some first went there in 1907. The Indians under Hoskanini had covered up their silver mines the fall, even while moving about. relief, he observes that movements have never succeeded in to keep the whites away, and were hostile toward strangers, some of whom were killed. Painting the Grand Canyon is, to Swinnerton, the tough­ revolutionizing art, and that many of them have ended up Several parties disappeared without a trace. est assignment of all. He has been at it for forty years, and where they belonged in the first place-in furniture and in­ Swinnerton went on all kinds of expeditions with John 'Wetherill, discoverer of Mesa is still far from finished with it as a subject. But one of his dustrial design, and in architecture. Verde and Betatakin, whom he regards as the greatest man in the known history of the Canyon paintings brought him a cherished compliment. Growing public consciousness of color and its influence region. Wetherill, who shared his discoveries of ruins and other prehistoric remains At Gump's in San Francisco, where some of his works is something that pleases Swinnerton, something to which with Swinnerton, on several occasions saved the lives of armed groups that found them­ were on exhibit, he overheard a woman catch her breath and he has looked forward for a long time. He is convinced that selves at the mercy of unfriendly Navajos. He did so just by talking. Swinnerton say, "Oh, I don't think I like that one!" He approached her businesses have actually failed or prospered because of their traveled with him for four years before discovering that he did not carry a gun. In ex- ' and asked why. choice of color schemes. Let youngsters have freedom with planation, Wetherill said that he thought any white man who could not out-talk an In­ "Because I' cl be afraid I might fall down there." dian deserved to be killed. color, he counsels; their interest will result in good work and "Madam," the artist beamed, 'Tm too old to kiss you, but bad, but the net outcome will be good. Only in the past few Swinnerton's recollections of his early clays on the Navajo reservation are full of l'cl like to shake your hand." A casual appraisal of the paint­ humorot1s incidents that reflect the character and background of The People. There years, he thinks, has there been any widespread serious ing had given the observer the same sensation that he had thought about education for the eyes. was the time, for example, when he and Wetherill sat opposite Betatakin ruin with old felt as he stood on the brink of the chasm. As far as Swinner­ He is enthusiastic over Indian art trends in the Southwest, Wind Singer, a tribal herb doctor. The Indian, using Navajo, English, and gestures, was ton was concerned, that canvas had made the grade. It was glad they have a distinct Indian flavor and that they adapt doing the talking. art. He pointed at the ground. "Under us lie many peoples," he said. "They all gone." the white man's tools without copying his styles. One of Not that he pretends to know what art is; he won't try A wave of his arm took in the sweep of the great cave and the cliff dwellings across his Indian pupils was Roan Horse. to define it, but he believes that it can be measured by the the canyon. "They go." interest reflected out of a work-not the artificial interest Jimmy Swinnerton, the hard-drinking consumptive who He sat for a while, saying nothing. accorded a curiosity, or the dutiful homage paid to mastery should have died fifty years ago, is today a hearty, husky, "I go," he went on. Another long pause. of "accepted" technique, but the immediate and natural re­ temperate man whose twinkling eyes and quick wit belie his "Then you go." sponse of even the untrained eye. age. Companion of men of a bygone generation, he has every In ten words he had summed up the histories of all the world's civilizations, throw­ He has remained purely in the realm of landscape, and right to dwell on the past, and in it, but he looks to the future ing in some safe prophecy for good measure. The three sat in silence for a while; then instead. He is a raconteur nonpareil; nothing escapes him, Wetherill spoke. his ideas on painting are concerned with landscapes. He does not put human forms, either white or Indian, in his and he is absolutely unaffected by the usual infirmities that "Talk more," he said. come with the allotted threescore and ten. He paints more "No," Wind Singer replied, "No talk more. Not cold enough yet." He waited for scenes, although sometimes he does include man-made things Oldest Arizonans dwell like hogans, campfires, cliff dwellings. His subject is Nature; deftly and more prolifically than ever, planning_the next in a deUf!.htjul world of this to sink in, no doubt amused at his companions' bewilderment. landscape before finishing the one before him. With his Swinnerton s creations. "Little birds, bugs, and snakes still out. They listen. They say, 'Old Wind Singer he makes no attempt to improve on it; it is all he needs and wants on his canvases. Nature, where man has not interfered, wife Gretchen, who also paints, and sometimes with artist talk too damn much'." friends, he probes the desert for subjects, ever turning up Jimmy Swinnerton was a familiar figure at the early Flagstaff Pow Wow celebra­ is always sublime, man's interference always crass and ugly. The ruins that appear in some of his work have been subject new discoveries in the land he has traveled for half a century tions, having taken part in organizing the first one in which the Navajos and Hopis and knows better than any man alive. His biggest worry is participated. Previously the Indians had avoided Flagstaff, taking their trade to Hol­ to Nature's softening and overgrowing for hundreds of years, and are once again almost a part of it. keeping straight in his mind a record of the countless gifts brook and Winslow because of rough treatment given one of them by a white man at he has received from his Navajo and Hopi friends. When in a Flagstaff horse race. Every minute spent painting strengthens his conviction their company, he is careful to wear prominently the articles On this occasion, old-timers Al Doyle and Rube sent out word that there would be that everything in Nature is in harmony and balance, even given him by anyone present, so that no person will be hurt. meals served to all who would join in the festival. One thousand five hundred Indians though we are not always artistically developed to the point showed up, creating a situation that threatened to put :flagstaff on the blacklist again where we are conscious of it. Once, long ago, when he was camped with John Wetherill by making it nearly impossible for the town to fulfill the promise. But local merchants His painting is done to record not only a place, but also by the great spire of Agathla, they were none-too-willing pitched in with more food, and the Pow Wow was a big success. To avoid the possi­ conditions of light, weather, season, temperature, and cloud hosts to Cosey and Posey, a pair of renegade Piutes. "We'd bility of unpleasant incidents, whites, Navajos, and Hopis performed in separate events. and plant arrangement that can never be exactly duplicated. better not both sleep as long as these fellows are around," At first the Navajo men were reluctant to take part in a parade, but the women liked the To him, the idea of beginning a canvas one day and return­ cautioned Wetherill, and Swinnerton took his turn at watch. idea, so parade they did, in the first Navajo procession that was not part of their own ing later to finish it on the site is unthinkable. He makes a This irony: he was following the advice his grandfather had ceremonials. Swinnerton remembers how they smiled back and waved as they left town quick sketch in oils, and sometimes a black-and-white photo­ given him when he was eight-counsel that had seemed in their wagons; that was something Flagstaff had not seen before. graph for foreground detail ( to save pencil work); then, utterly irrelevant at the time and that had been long for­ Swinnerton's enchanted descriptions of the country and its people, along with the . relying on these aids and his memory, does the final paint­ gotten. But his father's advice had gone for naught; although eloquent, sunshine-filled paintings he sent east, aroused the interest of his contempo­ ing in his workshop. he does sell his landscapes, his paintings are done principally for his own satisfaction even if they are being added to raries. They came to northern Arizona, to see its wonders with Swinnerton as their He believes that art or painting "rules" are childish. He numerous collections of nature loving purchasers. guide. Among his guests were Mrs. Robert Louis Stevenson, Will Rogers and his sons, has advised youngsters in painting to paint what they see, Lady Ravendale, daughter of Lord Curzon, and Sir Alma Baker, Australian governor­ adding nothing, leaving nothing out, and judge the success What is he, then? That drawing board by the window­ general of the Malay peninsula, and his wife and daughter. Swinnerton remembers the of each piece by the elusive and intangible "feeling" without Little Jimmy beginning next week's adventures there beside

PAGE TWENTY-SIX • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 In order to prevent deteriorization of the Fort, established at a cost of many millions of dollars, and to develop its assets for the benefit of Arizonans, Fort Huachuca Enterprises was incorporated in 1950. Headed by John Pintek, Bisbee attor­ ney and state senator from Cochise County, the group con­ sists of interested professional and business men in the southern part of the state. The eleven members forming its board of directors come from all walks of life. There arc doctors and lawyers, a game ranger, a funeral director, a labor leader, a minister, and owners of businesses-all donat­ ing their time and energies to establishment of the Fort as a residential and vacation area. That the corporation was formed was neither happen­ stance nor matter of course. Its formation was the result of a tedious struggle by Pintek to overcome a general lack of interest in the project on the part of his fellow legislators. It was during the regular session of the 19th Legislature in 1949 that Pintek secured enactment of Senate Bill 139, authorizing acceptance of the Fort by Arizona as a gift from the federal government. Despite the feeling of some senators Spacious lzomes, once used by military peo ple, are available. that the Fort would be just a white elephant to the state, it was pointed out that federal maintenance allotments for the annual National Guard operation, amounting to $31,000, would alone assure self-sustenance. It was also felt that it would be far safer to have the state and a non-profit organi­ zation in possession of the Fort than to risk its exploitation by individuals or private groups. Passage of Senate Bill 139 was effected in March, 1949. Thus Fort Huachuca, with its history and lore, its beautiful setting and abundant wildlife, Fort Huachuca, in a beautiful mountain setting, is being transformed into a pleasant year-round resort community. and its countless points of interests, became the property of the State of Arizona. · Then Fort Huachuca Enterprises drew up its Articles of Incorporation in which they precluded the possibility of the area's corning under control of an individual for private gain. A ten year lease agreement, with right of renewal for another like period, was drawn up and signed by the corporation and the governor. The area leased by "Enterprises," and now available for residential and commercial development, covers about 12,000 BY DICK STITT acres of land lying at the mouth of Huachuca Canyon at a temperate altitude of 5,550 feet above sea level. Twenty­ Rents range from $10 to $75 per month for various dwellings. PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHIL STITT eight airline miles west of Bisbee, the Post has experienced a range in average daily temperature from 33 degrees dur­ To most residents of the Baby State, mention of "vacation remained true to the era they knew best by refusing to trade ing January to 91 degrees during the summer months. In 41 wonderland" or "scenic splendor" may bring to mind the their wood stoves and kerosene lanterns for the more modern years, on only six days has the mercury at Bisbee remained vast northern and central Arizona resort areas. But while luxuries. Remnants of their mode of living are still in evi­ continuously below freezing. Snow falls occasionally be­ the chambers of commerce steadily extol the virtues of their dence on the post. tween December and March, with perhaps an average of two respective climes, a non-profit corporation is quietly working Generations of people-civilians and soldiers alike-have or.three inches per month. Only 50 days a year are cloudy, to add southern Arizona to the tourist map by establishing a lived on, and subsequently left, the Fort, which has served 74 partly cloudy. Two hundred and forty-two days find the year around resort atmosphere at colorful Fort Huachuca. as a training base through two world wars. It has seen sky over the Post completely clear. There is never any fog Established in 1877 by the United States Army, Fort Hua­ cavalry troops relinquish their horses in favor of mechanized at the Fort, which has been described by the U. S. Army as chuca (pronounced Wah-choo-kah, an Apache-Chiricahua motivation. Stables have been replaced by shops, and these an ideal location for a health resort. In the latter days of Indian word meaning "mountains-with-water") boasts his­ by complex repair buildings with hydraulic equipment. July and early in August, cleansing afternoon showers follow torical elements typical of the great Southwest. It was at Because of continued advancement made in warfare in the wake of thunder and lightning storms crashing through first a small military outpost in hostile Indian country, where methods, old Fort Huachuca is no longer deemed fit for full the canyons. pitched battles flared at a moment's notice. Cavalry troops scale military training. Now, for just two weeks each sum­ In the space leased by the corporation are approximately kept constant vigil on the summits of the Huachuca Moun­ mer, Arizona's National Guard troops reactivate the post for 500 one- to five-bedroom homes available for vacationing or tains. intensive maneuvers. After their departure only a forlorn permanent residence at nominal rental. The largest of these, A squad of weather-toughened Indian scouts occupied flagpole, flanked by two cannons, serves as witness to the palatial officers' quarters, were constructed in 1885 with 20- the Post for 70 years, the last leaving in 1947. When the Fort martial array that previously passed beneath it. The once inch thick adobe walls providing warmth in the winter and was expanded, and electric and gas facilities added, the thriving military establishment has seen its resident soldiers coolness in the summer. Floors are of polished maple gnarled scouts, although still a segment of the U. S. Army, all leave. Now it is welcoming the peace-minded citizens. throughout the five bedrooms, kitchen, dining room, living Retired couples have at their disposal small, neat cottages.

PAGE TWENTY-EIGHT • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 Space available for small businesses. A school plant is ready for operation. Extensive warehouse facilities. Dormitories are used by camp groups. room and study. Front and back screened porches, three many other enterprises. Two bakeries, an ice-making plant part of the United States could offer a greater variety of Buffalo Club-a ballroom, dining hall, and cocktail lounge of baths, a laundry room, two fireplaces, numerous closets, and with 40 ton capacity, two laundry and dry cleaning plants recreational facilities, regardless of cost. Extended to oc­ country club style and proportions. separate maids' quarters complete the layout of these man­ capable of handling the needs of up to 30,000 people are on cupants of the Fort is a recreative medium to fit the desires The Elks, American Legion, Masons and similar fraternal sions which rent for only $75 per month. At the other ex­ the Post. of the most selective. organizations have established areas for large groups, where treme, both in size and cost, are two-room cabins with A fully equipped meat cutting and packing plant stands For the more sedate individual, a game of croquet on a picnicking and steak fries can be featured. kitchen facilities renting at $10 monthly. In between is a deserted on the Fort, while available storage buildings con­ cool front lawn might be suitable. The dashing sportsman, Taking advantage of the low rentals and varied recre­ great variety of homes and apartments available in nearly tain over 16,000 square_ feet of space. Other warehouses, on the other hand, might find use of the polo grounds more ational facilities, plus the fact that they may be used the year any size at proportionate cost. located on a Southern Pacific railway spur, afford 318,000 to his liking. Two swimming pools can be kept filled. Per­ around, many church groups from widely scattered southern Regardless of the fact that rentals are extremely low, square feet of space. Numerous repair shops, formerly used haps a brisk hike or horseback ride through the mountains' Arizona communities have rented large dormitories on a means must be afforded many full time residents to earn a in the reclamation of clothing and similar items, are avail­ wooded paths is preferred. Or maybe a few holes over the yearly basis. There they hold their summer camps and ac­ living. To the small businessman and light industrialist, Ft. able. As an indication of their potentiality, it is of note that Post's golf course for the ardent golfer. Many tennis and companying spiritual instruction, as well as winter outings. Huachuca offers practically unlimited opportunity. Among 10,000 pairs of shoes were repaired in these shops in a single badminton courts are in the area, plus three baseball and The Bisbee YWCA maintains a youth center there, and a businesses already established are a restaurant and grill, a month during World War II. softball diamonds, as many football fields, and several four-state regional Y-Teen convention is being planned for grocery store, barber shop, novelty store and a motion pic­ To the imaginative and resourceful, Ft. Huachuca thus basketball courts. next summer. Ft. Huachuca is fast becoming recognized as ture theater. offers almost unlimited business and industrial opportunities. Evening social activities may center around the motion a mecca for youth groups as well as retired people and Vacant buildings of varied sizes provide facilities for Everyone likes some form of play. And few resorts in any picture theater, lawn parties, or an occasional dance at the families of moderate in~ome, who wish to live pleasantly.

Powerhouse can supply ample power. Swimming pools open for residents. Natural wonders surround the Fort. Wild Zif e abounds in Huachuca area.

PAGE THIRTY • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 Perfect climate, winter and summer, makes the Fort Huachuca area a delightful place to live. Surrounding mountains afford endless recreational possibilities for residents of picturesque Fort.

An adequate water supply, cause of worry in other parts tunity to offer. But it was 1fother Nature herself who pro­ States can boast, for example, of having eight species of oak In order to promote interest and knowledge of the Hua­ of Arizona, is assured the residents of the Post. During the vided perhaps the strongest attraction to the Huachuca and five each of pine and willow. chucas' natural history, a museum was established on the last war, with its heavy population, the largest single-day Mountains and Fort. Topographically, the area is ideal for wildlife purposes, Post in June, 1950. People from nearby settlements as well water consumption was 3,900,000 gallons-well below the Resplendent in plant life, the Huachuca Mountains of­ the 32,000 acres of habitat deeded to the Arizona Game and as the Fort belong to the sponsoring organization and contri­ 5,400,000 gallon capacity of the Fort's wells and natural fer unmatched opportunity for study and observation by Fish Commission having a wide range of land types. Since bute to the exhibits. Awaiting careful exploration and de­ springs. Sewage disposal is handled by two modern treat­ naturalists-layman or expert. From the rolling grasslands military activity at the Fort has prevented any appreciable velopment is an extensive crystal cave, its ancient stalactites ment plants. and desert to the 9,000-foot peaks, the Huachucas are abun­ degree of livestock grazing, the flora of the area provides and stalagmites as yet unseen even by most oldtimers of the For reasons of economy, Ft. Huachuca presently obtains dant in ferns, trees, shrubbery and wildlife. native forage for its abundant and varied wildlife. region. its power from the Tucson Gas and Electric Company. How­ The late Dr. William Ralph Maxon, in his time foremost A herd of 130 buffalo roams nearly at will over the rolling Nature blessed the Huachuca area with a mild climate ever, should the demand warrant it, the Post's own plant, fern expert in the United States, and former curator of the grasslands of the lower altitudes. A little higher may be and abundant plant growth and wildlife. The United States kept in constant readiness as a stand-by source, can fully ac­ U. S. National Museum, called the Huachucas "richer than found other herds of elk and antelope. The alert observer Army established a Fort in that ideal location, developing comodate the area. Natural gas is supplied with average any other similar area in the country in fern life," attributing may see the beautiful Yaqui quail, wild turkey, or the and improving it for nearly a century. Then, after World main pressure of 400 pounds per square inch by El Paso over 50 species to the region. mysterious and comical chula ( coati), a racoon-type animal War II the Post was abandoned, left sprawling over acres Natural Gas Company. With increasing altitude, plant growth and foliage be­ which abounds there. Egrets and parrots from the tropics and acres of land. Over a period of 70 years men have built up and added come more dense and diversified. After spending years have also been observed in the Huachucas, to which ornith­ But now, with a full time resident manager in charge of to that small military outpost until, during World War II, it searching for and identifying plants in the Huachucas, resi­ ologists from all over the country have come for study. The development, the enthusiasm of the families now living there, was able to house 40,000 people. Modern conveniences have dent botanist Leslie N. Goodding has made a comprehensive University of Arizona is considering the establishment of and the tireless efforts of the corporation's members, Ft. been added there, as everywhere, to make life easier. Now compilation of trees and shrubbery, listing 123 distinct types, headquarters at the Fort for field trips in connection with Huachuca shows definite signs of soon evolving into a bustl­ Ft. Huachuca has much in the way of comfort and oppor- as well as 84 species of grasses. Few places in the United bird and wildlife research. Such opportunities are unlimited. ing, southern Arizona resort town in a beautiful setting.

PAGE THIRTY-THREE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 in the summer of 1861 assembled in a mass meeting to ap­ I3ut in the following month of March 1862, there came prove Arizona's being added to the Confederacy when it a move from the other side of the Civil War, as the Arizona should be possible to do so. Perhaps such an attitude did not territorial bill was reintroduced into Congress in Washing­ make the Union soldiery feel too bad about leaving the ton. Santa Cruz and San Pedro valleys. It was a closer approach to the boundaries of the later Whatever the feelings on both sides may have been, there State of Arizona, although it would take nearly a year to was soon no question about the results of the Unionist retreat complete the work of passing it through Congress. from Arizona. The Apache moved down from his hills to In the final analysis, such a wealth of provisions ( on take possession wherever possible. Many of the wealthier paper), for the future of Arizona had to be disentangled and settlers packed up and fled into Sonora, or westward to Fort made good by force of arms in a time of civil war. This Yuma, where the Union garrison stood firm. process, of fighting the problem out to a decision, was al­ Up from Sonora came a rush of bordermen, bandits and ready in full career. Sibley's march up the Rio Grande adventurers, to dispute with the Indians over the possession Valley was part of it. Another part of the process was taking place at the same time, Chapter heading by Tom Harter from "Arizona-The History of a Frontier State." of the loot. Tubae, abandoned by its small garrison on in the direction of Arizona itself. August 3, 1861, was left to defend itself against the first On or about February 27, 1862, soon after the battle of The following article is a chapter from "Arizona-The History of a Frontier State," by Dr. combined attack from these marauders. Wrote a later trav­ Valverde, some two hundred mounted Texans under the Rufus K. Wyllys, head of the social studies department of Arizona State College at Tempe. eler: "the Apaches besieged the town on one side, while the command of Captain Sherod Hunter entered old Tucson, This volume, published last month by Hobson & Herr of Phoenix, is a complete and authentic Sonoranians lurked in the bushes on the other. Twenty men having marched westward from Mesilla. There was no sign history of Arizona, written by a renowned scholar and historian. Illustrated with maps, draw­ held it for three days, and finally escaped under cover of of opposition to this Confederate seizure of the chief town ings and old photographs, the book tells the exciting story of the development of a rainless night. There was nothing left." ... of Arizona. If there were any Union sympathizers present, western wilderness into the state it is today. Through its pages passes a cavalcade of colorful At almost the same time as the Tucson secessionist con­ they must have kept tactfully silent or else slipped across the men and women, people of the frontier, and therein are recorded the marks they le~ on the vention was getting under way after the departure of the border into Sonora as quickly as possible. land. The book, beautifully manufactured, contains 400 pages, size 8% by 5~~, with bibliogra­ Union troops, there was issued at Mesilla on August 1, 1861, Although one writer who visited the region two years phy and index. Tom Harter, noted Arizona artist, supplied the fourteen chapter headings. a proclamation by Lieutenant-Colonel John R. Baylor, com­ later described these Texans as "roving bandits, ... ragged, Available at all book stores, it sells for $6.00. Our readers may also secure this book by send­ mander of the Confederate army then taking possession of undisciplined," and Tucson as "a secession stronghold, com- . ing their orders to AmzoNA HIGHWAYS, Phoenix, Arizona. New Mexico. Because Baylor had not as yet conquered posed almost entirely of Southern outlaws," Hunter and his northern New Mexico, his proclamation merely set up the men do not seem to have created any great excitement or Territory of Arizona, which was to consist of all of New to have done any serious damage to the people of the Santa Mexico Territory south of the thirty-fourth parallel. It said Cruz valley; so that perhaps the writer was unduly preju­ that all the offices in this territory created by the United diced. The Confederates seem to have been mainly pre­ ARIZONA AND THE CIVIL WAR States were now vacant; that all laws which did not con­ occupied with the problem of getting food, possibly because tradict those of the Confederacy should continue to be they did not know of any Union troops dangerously near. BY DR. RUFUS K. WYLLYS enforced; that Mesilla should be the capital of the new They are said to have confiscated a few northern-owned territory; and that he would himself assume the office of mines, but probably did not have time to operate them The settlers of Arizona were a long way from the scenes Grande. As they left Forts Buchanan and Breckenridge, the military governor. He also appointed a number of territorial profitably. They served to guard the region against Apaches in which the early events of the American Civil War broke soldiers destroyed what military property they could not take officials, in the name of the Confederate States of America, for a time, and perhaps planned an attack on Fort Yuma. out. News did not travel very rapidly over the southern with them, to prevent it from falling into the hands of the and set up judicial districts. At least a party of them was sent down the Gila to the Pima routes to California, which had no Pony Express or telegraph Confederates or any one else. Many· of the buildings at the His proclamation and appointments were confirmed when villages, where they seized a large supply o( flour which lines in 1861. The rapid secessions of the Confederate States forts were also destroyed either then or by the Confederates his superior officer, General Henry H. Sibley arrived to take was being collected there for the Union army. Probably it had scarcely been heard of in the Gila Valley when word later. full command of the Confederate army in December of was from the Pimas that the Confederates first heard rumors came of the firing of the first guns at Fort Sumter in April of The troops left Fort Buchanan on July 23, 1861, on their 1861. By a proclamation of December 20, Sibley invited all that danger threatened their little detachment from the west. that year, and several battles had been fought in the East march to Fort Fillmore. Before the some four hundred Union the Unionist soldiers and officers still in New Mexico, to The danger consisted of a body of Unionist volunteer before the war was really felt in Arizona in July. soldiers reached Fort Fillmore, the Union commander there, "drop at once the arms which degrade you into the tools of troops whose advance eastward was to make much history The southern route of the Butterfield stage lines was Major Isaac Lynde, had already surrendered to Lieutenant­ tyrants, renounce their service, and array yourselves under for Arizona. They were the so-called California Volunteers made useless in February of 1861, by disorders in Texas as Colonel John R. Baylor, whose Texan Confederate army had the colors of justice and freedom. I am empowered to receive or California Column, eighteen hundred strong, composed of the state militia took over United States military property come up from El Paso. The Arizona Unionist soldiers there­ you into the service of the Confederate States, the officers partly-organized California Unionist regiments; and they there and the Federal troops withdrew. Early in March the fore moved on up the Rio Grande to Fort Craig, to join the upon their commissions, the men upon their enlistments." were commanded by a "down East" Yankee from Maine, United States Congress shifted the contracts for overland one remaining loyal Union commander in New Mexico, In another proclamation he declared tl1at he expected "a Colonel ( later General), James Henry Carleton, a restless, mail carrying, to be run through Colorado, Utah and Nevada Colonel Edward R. S. Canby. The latter found himself in sincere and hearty cooperation and firm support from the energetic officer with something of a flair for politics. exclusively, and Arizona was for a time cut off from any charge of some twelve hundred unpaid and half-equipped inhabitants" of the new territory .... On his staff were a number of men whose names or knowledge of what was happening "back East." ... men there. . .. Meanwhile, there were certain political results of all careers are remembered in Arizona, such as John C. Cre­ . .. The Apaches, watching cautiously from their moun­ Adding to the confusion among the Union garrisons in this concern about Arizona. On February 14, 1862, President mony, Edward E. Eyre, Joseph R. West, George W . Bowie tain strongholds, realized that the white men were in New Mexico as well as Arizona, was the decision of so many Jefferson Davis of the Confederate States of America pro­ ( for whom the town and old fort of Bowie are named), and trouble; and it was not long before Apache leaders came to of their officers to resign from the Union army and enter the claimed the establishment of the Confederate Territory of Thomas L. Roberts. The Column was being gathered at believe that they were the cause of the white man's retreat. Confederate service. It was a practice which, it is sometimes Arizona, confirming the action of Baylor. Such a proclama­ Yuma during March and April of 1862; but Lieutenant When that point was reached, Arizona was about to see the said, did little good to either side in the Civil War, for it left tion was quite in agreement with the ideas of the Texans, Colonel Joseph R. West, who commanded the advance beginning of a twenty-five-year conflict with Indians. the Union armies without enough officers and gave the Con­ one of whom ( M. H. McWille, Baylor's appointee as at­ guard, was at Yuma as early as November of 1861, to protect It was the departure of the United States troops from federates too many of them. torney-general of the proposed territory), had already writ­ the ferry there and prevent any Confederate efforts to com­ their Arizona garrisons, however, which really most affected The departure of the Unionist troops from Arizona ten: "The stores, etc., in N. Mex. and Ariz. are immense, municate with southern sympathizers in California. the settlements depending upon them for the enforcement of aroused much resentment among the settlers in and around and I am decidedly of the opinion that the game is worth Scouting and foraging parties sent out by West had law and order. By orders from the military headquarters in Tucson, although it is generally agreed today that the great the ammunition.... The exped. would relieve Texas, open reached the Pimas before the Confederates had visited them, New Mexico, these garrisons were to withdraw from the majority of the settlers were strongly in sympathy with the communication to the Pacific, and break the line of opera­ and placed orders for food supplies among those Indians. A forts and gather at Fort Fillmore, near Mesilla on the Rio southern cause. The sixty-eight American voters in Tucson tions ... designed to circumvallate the south." dispatch-bearer sent to Tucson in February was captured by

PAGE THIRTY-FOUR • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 11(3 111· 116' 115 1141• HZ lff 109 • ,108 104 103 I I a:IfJ .J(j =I .,_ -,;: ~I 0 COLORA TERRITORYR:'·· pursued toward these Indians." 37 1/ll If the Apaches could not appreciate nor understand these .,Raton .Pa.,., orders concerning them, they could certainly not fail to understand that the soldiers obeying those order~; were more ache , 1 ~ 3 8 merciless than any white men they had ever known before. Canyon84 Forl Ui ion ~ l --~--'lorz"eta-· Paf.l' Although Carleton's order was not issued until late in 1862, ,!!'~%ntaFe Baylor's order was sufficient to show what military men in the West, Confederate as well as Union, thought about the 35 T E R~ J1bI2que y Indian both then and later. It may have been the general I policy of the Confederates toward Apaches that provoked the fi erce attacks upon the retreating Texans under Hunter, 34 for it was not until November of 1862 that President Jeffer­ . :BAYLOR8\lOF PROC I.AM ATION~ L!~E } ilt - ··-·· (CONFEDERJ.: TER R I T ORY ·oF R!'Z ONA) son Davis wisely repudiated Colonel Baylor's order of ex­ termination. N E W~"l" M E X I C 0 But the Union forces were to have their share of Apache It/ ,, Jocorro i i;;/ Valverde ferocity, whether they agreed with the principles of the • for/ Craig J1 >,:; 0/f.Ue ~ Baylor order or not. On July 14, 1862, as the soldiers guard­ J!edondo c:, .... ing the California Column's wagon train were entering 3Z' .Ji Apache Pass after a thirsty march from Dragoon Springs, they were attacked by i\ilimbreno Apaches led by Mangas -1-, Coloradas and Chiricahua Apaches led by old Chief Cochise. 31 ~-"',. TEXAS There followed what was perhaps the largest single battle 00 ..:::::..: .._ between Americans and Apaches in Arizona history-largest ~ Co,v;-•-•- •-• l" 0 ~.... E:OERATES in the numbers involved on both sides. Captain Thomas L. . "' 30• CHIHUAHUA Hoberts, in command of the soldiers, skilfully managed their JI~ 112 11 109 107· 106° Jo+ fighting in such a way as to get through the pass, helped very Dr. Rufus K. Wyllys of Arizona State College is the author of much by the use of howitzers, whose shells burst among the "The French in Sonora," "Pioneer Paclres" ancl other stuclies. rocks where the Apaches hid and made bloody havoc among Carefully clrawn maps are features of "Arizona-The History of a Frontier State." Maps dramatize historic events in the story. them. The battle was renewed on July 16 as the wagon train came up to go through the pass, but the Indians were unable Hunter's men, and on being released came back with the attention to their duties, and so part of them were marched· and collected a heavy tax especially from gamblers and to stop the wagons and their guards from going through. On news that the Confederates held that town. Then a small out of the town to establish a camp near by, which was the saloon-keepers, to be used for sick and wounded Union the whole, the battle of Apache Pass was a defeat for the party of cavalry under Captain William McCleave, which beginning of old Fort Lowell. soldiers. Otherwise there appears to have been nothing sug­ Apaches, since they had lost more than sixty killed and an had gone out in search of the messenger, was met by the When Carleton arrived, early in June, several steps were gestive of oppression in his military regime, and probably untold number wounded on the first day of the fighting. Confederates at the Pima villages, and part of its members taken to assert the authority of the federal government in under it Arizona had a more orderly government than she The battle called to the attention of General Carleton the captured by them on April 6. Arizona. On June 8 he issued a proclamation setting up the had ever known before, or at least since the end of Spanish importance of controlling this strategic pass, whose value Up the Gila from Yuma then came Captain William P. Territory of Arizona ( somewhat ahead of proceedings in rule. had already been recognized and appreciated by the Butter­ Calloway, with a larger party of Union cavalry to rescue the Congress), and declaring it placed under martial law. His The Apaches also paid little attention, it is probable, to field stage lines, which had built and maintained a station captured men. At the Pima villages Calloway heard that a reasons were in part expressed by the statement that "Now, proclamations, or the statement of Colonel Baylor, on March there. On July 27 Carleton gave orders to establish a military party of Confederate soldiers under Lieutenant Jack Swilling in the present chaotic state in which Arizona is found to be, 20, 1862, ordering his subordinates to "use all means to per­ camp at the pass. This was the origin of old Fort Bowie, was near by, and sent Lieutenant James Barrett with a dozen with no civil officers to administer the laws, indeed, with an suade the Apaches or any tribe to come in for the purpose of whence military patrols escorted travelers, wagon trains, and Union soldiers to attack and capture them. utter absence of all civil authority, and with no security of making peace, and when you get them together kill all the stagecoaches in later days past the zone of Apache danger. Swilling and his men retreated, pursued by Barrett's life and property within its borders, it becomes the duty of grown Indians and take the children prisoners and sell them There were no more important Indian battle in Arizona party, until the two groups met in Picacho Pass. Barrett and the undersigned to represent the authority of the United' to defray the expense of killing the Indians. Buy whisky and during 1862, but early in 1863 a campaign, under the direc­ two of his men were killed here; and the Confederate loss States over the people of Arizona . . . until such time as the such other goods as may be necessary for the Indians and I tion of General J. R. West, was launched against the home­ was two killed and three captured. This was the only Civil President of the United States shall otherwise direct." will order voucher given to cover the amount expended. land of the Mimbrenos near the old Santa Rita copper mines. War skirmish occurring in Arizona, and it is sometimes called It turned out that there was little sign of discontent or dis­ Leave nothing undone to insure success, and have a sufficient In the course of the fighting, Mangas Coloradas was cap­ the westernmost battle of the Civil War, fought on April 15, order, perhaps because so many southern sympathizers had number of men around to allow no Indian to escape." tured, by trickery according to some accounts; and was killed 1862. Although in its casualties it might be called a Con­ fled with Hunter's men, and Unionists who might have been This order from the Confederate Baylor could be while in captivity because, so his guards asserted, he had federate triumph, in its strategic result, it amounted to a revengeful for being exiled by Hunter's occupation of Tuc­ matched by one from General Carleton of the California tried to escape. It was soon after this campaign that the Union victory, for Captain Hunter immediately decided son had not yet returned. Carleton does not seem to have Column to Colonel Kit Carson, dated October 12, 1862: "All Mimbrenos began to break up and either accept reservation upon a retreat toward the Rio Grande. been unduly harsh, considering the times and the frontier Indian men of that (Apache) tribe are to be killed whenever life in New Mexico or join the Chiricahuas in southeastern More than a month later, while Hunter's men were re­ conditions which he had to control. and wherever you can find them; the women and children Arizona. tiring eastward through Arizona, Colonel West's advance All citizens of Tucson were asked to take an oath of al­ will not be harmed, but you will take them prisoners . ... If On October 23, 1863, General Carleton set up another guard of the California Column entered Tucson, on May 20. legiance to the United States or get out of the territory. Nine the Indians send in a flag and desire to treat for peace, say military district, known as that of Northern Arizona. Its A symptom of what awaited the Union men had already men who were accused of terrorizing the people were ar­ to the bearer ... that now our hands are united and you creation was due ' to the increasing reports of discoveries of been experienced by Hunter's little army, for it was attacked rested and sent to captivity at Fort Yuma. Some political have been sent to punish them for their treachery and their gold deposits in that region, which made more military estab­ by the Apache and lost several men and a good deal of its prisoners were also arrested, among them being Sylvester crimes; that you have no power to make peace; that you are lishments n ecessary for the protection of the incoming equipment. Colonel West sent parties of soldiers to establish Mowry who was accused of having given aid and supplies there to kill them whenever you find them ... that we be­ miners. One of the first forts built for this purpose was Fort a military post, known as Fort Barrett, at the Pima villages, from the Patagonia Mine to Captain Hunter and of having lieve if we kill some of their men in fair open war, they will Whipple. Originally it was located near the headwaters of and to reoccupy for a time the old Forts Buchanan and made boastful pro-southern speeches. H e spent six months be apt to remember that it will be better for them to remain the Verde River, but in May of 1864 it was moved so as to be Breckenridge. According to one story, West's soldiers were in prison at Fort Yuma for his rashness. at peace than to be at war. I trust that this severity, in the near the site chosen for the new territorial capital, which too deeply interested in Tucson's senoritas to give proper Carleton taxed the merchants of Tucson for war expenses, long run, will be the most humane course that could be would presently be known as Prescott.

PAGE THIRTY-SIX • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY, 1951 Not all of the Apache warfare was waged between In­ one launched by Colonel Kit Carson against the Navajos by and the morale of the Navajos seemed at last broken. By No matter how they traveled, it was customary for new dians and soldiers. King Woolsey, a native of Alabama who an order of Carleton issued at Santa Fe on June 15, 1863. February 14, 1864, a thousand of them had been collected arrivals-in a day when hotels were scarcely known-to had come to Arizona in 1860 and located a ranch at Agua For many years these proud, independent desert folk had as prisoners from Canyon de Chelly, and by the end of that cluster in great, disorderly camps on the outskirts of the Caliente hot springs on the Gila some eighty miles above been, unlike their southern Apache cousins, self-supporting month, three thousand five hundred had been taken to Bos­ towns and military posts. A vivid picture of Tucson, chief Yuma, was a notable Indian fighter. He had enlisted in the in a pastoral fashion, with flocks and herds of their own. que Redondo. Before the middle of April it was reported center of population of the new territory, is given in the Confederate army, but saw no active service and soon left it Unloved by other Indians and feared by Mexicans, they had that eight thousand Navajos were either at Bosque Redondo account of a soldier who came there in 1866: "With the to return to Arizona in 1862. Next year he had taken up few friends and lived to themselves in the canyons, deserts or on the way thereto. This place, the Mescalero Apache exception of the soldiers and te~msters in transit there were another ranch near Prescott, and in January of 1864 he led and mesas of northeastern Arizona and northwestern New reservation in southern New Mexico, was not a good country not over a dozen white men in the town, and not one white a party of settlers to deal out punishment to a band of Gila Mexico. for the Navajos, and they died off by hundreds there, or woman. The doors of many houses consisted of raw hides Apaches who had been making a practice of running off cat­ An American campaign against them in 1846, during the were constantly running away. stretched over rough frames, the windows being apertures in tle in the vicinity. Mexican War, had forced them to agree grudgingly to a sort In June of 1868, therefore, a final agreement was made the walls barred with upright sticks stuck therein .... I found The party, composed of thirty Americans and fourteen of truce, which they had kept when it suited them until in the between them and the United States government, assigning that the one street of Tucson was fairly bubbling with life Maricopa and Pima Indians, found the Apaches near the spring of 1860. Then about a thousand of their warriors them a reservation in their homeland, under conditions and motion. Its whole length was taken up by a long train of present town of Miami, persuaded the chiefs to come into suddenly attacked Fort Defiance and nearly captured it. For which would encourage them to become law-abiding people. army wagons, and another of prairie schooners carrying flour their camp for a conference and then killed them, while the next three years these "lords of the North" among south­ As a whole, the Navajos kept this treaty and settled down from Sonora, Mexico, while heavy loaded hay wagons were others of the expedition shot down many of the other western Indians had had things very much their own way. quietly to be ranked among the most peaceful and industri­ trying to make their way to the government corral. . . . . Apaches. This affair, called the "Massacre at Bloody Tanks," They had gone raiding down the Rio Grande valley as far as ous of American Indians today. It was the last achievement Cursing teamsters, rollicking soldiers, rustling gamblers and is also known as the "Pinole Treaty," from an old version of the Mescalero Apache reservations and had defied any at­ of Kit Carson in connection with the history of Arizona, al­ the usual nondescripts of a frontier town jostled each other it which said that poisoned pinole, or corn gruel, was fed to tempt to pursue them back into their stronghold which though he continued to serve as an Indian fighter and agent in the narrow street devoid of sidewalks .... I started my the Indians. It was a severe blow to the Gila and Tonto centers in and around the fabulous Canyon de Chelly. for some years more. ration wagon to camp, then looked for a store where I might Apaches, who learned from it never to trust white men. Their social organization was based on a principle similar Throughout the last years of the Civil War, Arizona as a purchase a much needed paper of needles and thread. The Elaborate plans for a completely destructive campaign to the old Scotch clan system, which meant that they had no · whole knew more peace than might have been expected, save only store worthy of the name was quite easily found and the against all the Apaches were drawn up in 1864, and Carleton central authority, not even chiefs as influential as Mangas for Indian warfare. The needs of the United States troops desired articles were produced. To my horror and the great issued an order that every able-bodied male Apache must be Coloradas, Juan Jose or Cochise were for the Apaches. So garrisoned in the region caused something of a revival of financial detriment of my purse I found that a paper of either put on a reservation or killed. But the campaign was it was next to impossible to impose any treaty upon all of trade, and the army paymaster seems to have been the most needles cost seventy-five cents and a spool of thread twenty­ something of a failure, for while it led to the deaths of over them, unless they could all be rounded up at one time; for important business man of the new territory. Credit and five cents. As I gave vent to my astonishment at such exorbi­ two hundred Indians and the wounding of many more, only no clan or head man felt responsible for carrying out agree­ commerce were alike dependent upon his semi-annual visits, tant prices, the store-keeper observed, somewhat sarcasti­ thirty western Apaches were actually collected to be sent to ments made by any other. Nevertheless, Carleton felt it which were the occasion for spending sprees, at least iri cally, I thought, 'It is not the value of the article but the cost the Bosque Redondo reservation provided for them in New necessary to force them to submit to some kind of reserva­ Tucson and around other army posts. The issuance of govern­ money on the freight, you know.' ... However, the thing Mexico. tion life, for as he said, "until they can raise enough to be ment vouchers to laborers and rancheros between the pay­ worked both ways as I found later when I brought to this The Civil War military campaigns in the East might be self-sustaining you can feed them cheaper than you can fight master's visits supplied the need of money, much as had store our surplus rations and received for them per pound: managed according to the best approved schools of strategy them." · Tubac's silver slugs and "pig money." Coffee, seventy-five cents ( it sold for a dollar); brown sugar, and tactics; but they were quite worthless in the mountains Kit Carson was given an almost completely free hand in The population of Tucson had more than doubled before fifty cents; bacon, sixty cents .... " of Arizona, against such wily, elusive savages as the Apaches, his organization of the Navajo campaign, which he launched the end of the Civil War became known in Arizona, and all The opening of new mines had no small part to play in who could very rarely be taken by surprise. Especially was it from Forts Wingate in New Mexico and Defiance in Arizona over the territory-no longer only south of the Gila-new the revival of business and increase of settlement. Several of a hopeless campaign in 1864, because of the soldiers did not Territory. He had command of 736 men, besides the co­ towns were being hopefully founded. Steady lines of pack­ the mines opened in the Civil War days have already been know the country well enough. The end of the Civil War operation of another force of 326 men under Lieutenant­ trains came northward from the now friendly ports and ment~oned. It was partly to aid the mining industry that new saw a considerable number of Apaches still unsubdued and Colonel Francisco Chaves. towns of Sonora, as border relations calmed down. Along the roads were being marked or constructed in the middle and free from any kind of restrictions in their mountain fast­ The drive, consisting of a series of encircling attacks upon Gila and Cooke's Wagon Road came freighters' ox-drawn late sixties, although it was reported in 1866 that not a single nesses. the desert Navajo, started in July of 1863 and lasted all wagons through the small river valleys where it was said by stage line was in operation in the territory. The Indian wars To the settlers this was intolerable. The first governor of through that summer and the following autumn. Carson's some early settlers and travelers that the tall grass grew as had a good deal to do with this condition. the Territory of Arizona certainly voiced the attitude of most reports again and again summarize the raids, the killings and high as a horse's back. Culturally, not very much can be said about Arizona in of the pioneers when in his message of September 26, 1864, the captures of Navajos. So many Navajos were killed or In fact, it was overgrazing of freighters' and settlers' oxen those confused Civil War days. American women were he said to , the First Legislative Assembly concerning the captured that by the middle of September they were volun­ and beef cattle which by 1870 had begun so to deplete this exceedingly scarce in the territory before 1872. Amusements Apaches: "But for them, mines would be worked, innumer­ tarily surrendering and being sent down the Rio Grande to growth of grass that the freighters had to turn to the use of of the more respectable sort largely centered around "bailes" able sheep and cattle would cover these plains, and some of Bosque Redondo reservation. Nearly two hundred had been the more cheaply fed mule. Closely guarded trains of freight­ and fandangos, at which the guests seem to have behaved the bravest and most energetic men that were ever the taken by mid-November; and by the end of November ing wagons, if they safely eluded Indian attacks in the moun­ decorously enough and at which the only liquid refreshment pioneers of a new country, and who now fill bloody and Carson could find no more of them outside the snow-choked tains, required usually at least three months to make their ostensibly served was "limonada." unmarked graves, would be living to see their brightest entrances to Canyon de Chelly. way painfully from the Missouri River to the gateway of the Newspapers were hardly known in Arizona during the anticipations realized. It is useless to speculate on the origin This stronghold, thirty miles long and a thousand feet Southwest, Santa Fe. From there it was often at least an­ Civil War, but toward its end there appeared one or two of this feeling, or inquire which party was in the right or deep, had been regarded as impregnable, even in warmer other month's journey to the middle Gila Valley. frontier sheets, the Arizona Miner being started at Prescott wrong. It is enough to know that it is relentless and un­ seasons; but the Indian-fighting reputation of "Carson's That was one reason for the prosperity of Colorado City, on March 9, 1864, and the Arizonian being revived at Tucson changeable. They respect no flag of truce, ask and give no Men" was at stake, and in mid-winter, early in January of across from Fort Yuma; yet while men were thankful for in 1867. These two papers were successively the official quarter, and make a treaty only that, under the guise of 1864, both ends of the canyon were stopped up by parties of the use of the Colorado River through Mexico to the Gulf, papers of the territory. In 1870 the Yuma Sentinel began friendship, they may rob and steal more extensively and white men. After scouting along the rims of the canyon, they were beginning to curse the treaties which had left Ari­ publication. with greater impunity. As to them, one policy only can be Carson ordered a systematic invasion of the depths of what zona without access to a port of her own on the Gulf. It was Public schools were unknown until after the Civil War, adopted. A war must be prosecuted until they are compelled he called "this celebrated Gilbraltar of the Navajoes," clumsy, expensive and aggravating to have to transfer heavy and children among the 6,482 white people reported in the to submit and go upon a reservation." wherein, as the white men advanced, the Indians jumped freight from ocean-going steamers to river steamboats and census of 1860 for the region south of the Gila, simply had The last years of the Civil War brought another Indian about on the ledges "like mountain cats, hallooing at me, barges at the Colorado-mouth, ascend the river to Fort to go uneducated, be taught by private tutors or attend the campaign which partly affected Arizona and which was so swearing and cursing and threatening vengeance on my Yuma, and then transport the goods two hundred and fifty one or two private and church schools maintained in and highly successful by contrast with the confused attacks upon command in every variety of Spanish they were capable of miles to the chief settlement of the Gila Valley. Yet many around Tucson and Prescott. By the large, Arizona in the the Apache, that it is difficult to believe the methods most mustering." considered it better than the long overland push under the Civil War decade was as thoroughly a frontier country as used in Arizona were the right ones. This campaign was the Cold and hunger came to the aid of the white invaders, constant threat of Indian attacks. could be found anywhere in the United States.

PAGE THIRTY-EIGHT • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JANUARY 1951 THE NEW YEAR The New Year Stepped gaily out Of the dawn Carrying ·white pages for men to write Their records on! KATHARINE L. BRATTON

NIGHT PLANE A mighty plane plowed through the ocean of night, AUSTRALIAN ART NOTE: W e now ask your help, if possible, in a project Steered b y the stars and an Autumn's moonlight, . . . Many thanks, indeed, for your kindness and we are undertaking this year, when we hope to Plowed through the clouds, lightly hung in courtesy in forwarding me the additional copies make a survey of the U. S. A. largely from the night's cave, of your wonderful Indian Number, which up to social p oint of view. In order to do this we Like _great, foamy white caps on each blue-black date is my favorite of favorites. M y mother has should like to contact a school in Arizona con­ vvave. advised m e of the safe arrival of the e xtra copies taining a group of children age thirteen or so, of THELMA IRELAND which were addressed to my home in Brisbane. average intelligence and with no great academic 0 0 0 0 One of those will be bound, complete with the pretensions, with whom we might exchange ac­ ARTIST articles which accompanied the pictures, but a counts of our different ways of life. Could you Yesterday God painted the sky gray, number of those pictures are going to be assist us at all by passing on our request either Addin,g d ark clouds the livelon_g day. mounted and framed in my study. Of their kind to others or to a school which would be willing to cooperate? Today God painted a sky so blue, I have never seen anything better. I wish I Painting in clouds of many hues. could buy or even see the originals. Our next and last request is for contact with a Also enjoyed the Remington article in a recent ranch from which we could get first hand pic­ Tomorrow God! Pray paint it slow, . issue. Some fine sketches and some wonderful tures of the cattle industry, which I'm afraid is Strike many colors ... A big rainbow bronzes. Snake in the Path appealed to me very rather romanticized over here. RALPH A. FISHER, SR. much. I liked the painting The Holdup, too. It The best of luck to the ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • • 0 0 reminded me very much of a similar type of pic­ from all of us at Pheasy, England. VISION ture of the same name by Australian artist, Tom E. Darrell Pheasy Collingwood Drive School Silver moonlight tarnished black in Saguaro Roberts - probably a contemporary of Reming­ shade, ton's. Doubt if Roberts had ever seen Reming­ Collingwood Drive, Pheasey Birmingham 22A, England Luminous blossoms floating on the deep sea of ton's picture nor Remington Roberts'. Roberts' Oleanders, picture was a closeup amongst the e ucalyptus, • W e are presenting this interestin{!, letter with Dusty rustle of palm fronds and the soft sibilance the robbers ( or bushrangers as we Australians the hope some of our IJ OUng readers in our of night birds, call them ), who were holding up the coach, schools, Arizona and e lsewh ere , and on our These are the dark glories of the desert. were mounted on horseback. The coach I think ranches, may care to correspond with children in Vision streaming free to the far hills of under- was one of Cobb & Cos. Cobb, by the w ay, was the Pheasey school. Greetings to Mr. Darrell and standing, , formerly of Wells Fargo, I think, his students. an American to the pure harmony of silence, who founded a coaching firm that was famous Ears a ttuned embracing the perfection of solitude, throughout Australia. I think that would be Hearts AUTOMOBILE LILLIAN RIDES AGAIN: These are dark glories of the soul. about a century ago. Our Tom Roberts was not regarded as a first-class painter, but he chose . . . After several years of searching I finally EDITH LITCHFIELD DENNY Australian subjects and portrayed the Australian found Automobile Lillian, The Daring Girl -0 0 0 0 scene faithfully and w ell. Like Remington, he Bandit of Arizona, and felt you had to know STORM PORTENT painted a phase of history which has passed for­ something about her, too. One thing I noticed about the dime novel i s Darkness ever. In spirit, the paintings by Remington and with its great hand Roberts are remarkably similar. that no one drinks or smokes in it although love and gambling run right through it. stretched across the heavens Alan Queale avidly snatching each bit c/o Court House It tries hard to make Lillian some sort of champion of the poor and it does contain the of blue .. . HUGHENDEN, G.N.R. The hush Australia usual "do or die" theme that ran through so Queensland, of deep canyons • Thanks to artists like Remington and Roberts, many of the dime novels. It could, a s a matter of fact, be concluded that the dime novel is no when the last echo dies pioneer dalJS of our America and Mr. Queale's falls like a n eerie cloak upon Australia will live forever. different than the c omic books of today which seem to worry some of our educators no end. the world. However, grandfather and father came out of CATHERINE DuPEN SOUTH FROM NOGALES: the dime novel and penny dreadful era good, 0 0 0- 0 . .. Thanks especially for the November issue. I solid Americans and there is no reason to be­ SHADOWS ON THE SNOW have never been below Nogales, but having read lieve that today's children will be any the worse Tree shadows every word of my copy, and underlined much of for reading t he kind of material that is American it, I think I will have to visit that country. And on the vellum soft snow look - harmless, yet teaching good over bad and suc­ like animated ink spots, that will mean two more visits to Arizona! cess only after almost unsurmountable obstacles. Please tell Byrd Baylor I, too, can n ow hear as the artist, the wind, shakes In any event, there are only a few collectors them from his impatient pen. the "Sheep Bell!" left with d ime novel libraries so I thought I G. Howard Allen ADELAIDE COKER would refresh the readers of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS 0 0 0 -0 Arlington, Massachusetts with the daring exploits of Automobile Lillian, • Mr. Allen will not forget his adventure down most difficult of all dime novel h eroines to GLORY OF WINTER the W est Coast of Mexico, below Nogales. As a capture. The world is filled postscript to o ur November issue, we might Sal/ Chet L . Swital With the ineffable purity air-minded travelers will find the ereat Nogales Capital Enterprises Of snow, and stilled International Airport a window between two Culver City, California W ith its crystalled muteness. frie ndly states, two great nations. • W e first heard about Da3hing Lillian when The tracery of skiers Mr. Swital asked our reader$ to help him find a Embroiders the mountainside . SCHOOL IN ENGLAND: copy of the dime novel describing the excitin{!, Like frozen tears . .. W e at Pheasey School have been subscrib­ exploits of the Girl Bandit. W e are glad to learn Icicles adorn the ranch house. ers to your magazine for the past twelve months he has at last found a coplJ of the book and for This frosted hour or so through E. F. Lewis. Let me say what an the enlightenment of our readers we hope to pre­ Is winter's glorious zenith ... excellent production we consider it, both artisti­ sent soon a brief SIJnopsis of Lillian's adventures. The scented power cally a nd for the cross section given of life in Watch fo r it! Adventure! Romance! Excitement! Of summer is forgotten. vour state. Thrills! Chills! Spills! Lillian rides again! ELIZABETH REEVES HUMPHREYS

BACK COVEH OPPOSITE p AGE "SAND AND CLIFF" BY JACK BREED. The desert plateau of northeastern "ALONG HOPI TRAILS" BY THOMAS A. DONOHOE. This is part of Hopi­ Arizona carries the marks of the weather. The wind moves the sand land, in northeastern Arizona. In such country as this, people have dunes and moulds them into graceful shapes, clawing all the time at the lived longer than in any other part of the United States. The fact that steep cliffs, as if impatient to turn the cliffs into sand. Where there is generations of Hopi Indians have been able to survive, even flourish; in protection from the wind and where there is a little moisture s trange such a sparse land is testimony to their industry, their strength, the desert plants and grasses struggle to survive. This photograph was taken effectiveness of their community life and the sustaining vigor derived in Monument Valley. from their religion.

PAGE FORTY • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • fANUA RY 1951