What You Need to Know Before Climbing Mt. Hood Oregon’s highest summit, Mt. Hood, at 3426m, is one to behold. It is an ice cone beautifully rising above lush green vegetation. A mountain-lake nearby, by the name Mirror Lake gives a perfect reflection of Mt. Hood. It lies on the border between two counties; Hood River and Clackamas about 80km south-east of Portland. In North America, this glaciated peak is one of the most coveted by climbers and is situated within Mt. Hood National Forest. After Japan’s Mt. Fuji, it is the second most popular spot for climbers. It houses 12 named glaciers and snowfields, which cover about 80% of the mountain. The famous skiing zone being the Palmer Glacier within Timberline Lodge. Due to past minor eruptions, it is characterized as a potentially active volcano though informally the mountain is considered dormant. Fumaroles near the summit (Devil’s Kitchen and Hot Rocks) contribute to the fear that an eruption is imminent. Although an explosive eruption is unlikely, the U.S. Geological Survey estimates the chances of an eruption between 3-7% in the next 30 years. Mount Hood Climate Mt. Hood experiences the Mediterranean type of Climate. The average temperature is 46.8°F (8.2°C). July is the warmest month with temperatures averaging 63.6°F (17.6°C). While January is the coldest month with temperatures averaging 30.2°F (-1°C). The highest temperature (35°C) was recorded in July and the lowest temperature (- 21.7°C) recorded in January. The mountain gets 38 inches of precipitation yearly. December receives the most precipitation while July has the least amount of rain. Snow is 57 inches on average. Climbing Mt. Hood Contrary to popular opinion that Mt. Hood can be tackled by inexperienced hikers, ascending this snowcapped peak requires technical skills and experience. This trivialization and carelessness has led to a number of deaths on Mt. Hood. Actually, an unprepared climber is sadly considered a risk to other experienced climbers. It will take a roughly 4-7hours to summit Mt. Hood if you’re in peak shape but 6-9 hours if you aren’t. Now that we have ascertained that this mountain is a technical climb, proper mountaineering equipment and safety skills are mandatory. Due to rapid weather changes, safety greatly depends on the climber’s fast judgment, skill and preparation. I will not hesitate to emphasize the need for proper training before tackling Mt. Hood. Physical conditioning is quite essential if you want a successful trek. I suggest going on training hikes or making use of hilly terrain that more or less simulate the high elevation of Mt. Hood. Carry a weight of about 20-30 pounds consisting of the equipment you will need on the mountain, on your back during these training sessions. You should also be trained in crampon and self-arrest techniques using the ice-axe. Familiarity with other safety techniques like First Aid, crevasse rescue, roped travel, navigation and avalanche condition assessment will be an added advantage. Make sure you are aware of the risk elements associated with the climb. Get to know the type, how to avoid or mitigate it. Some of the dangers on the mountain include: 1. Rock/Ice fall This happens due to strong wings, sun and vibrations that loosen the surfaces holding the ice and dust. So the debris comes tumbling down the slopes. Rock fall is likely to occur during Fall and Summer while ice fall is likely to occur during Winter. Mitigation Tip: Get an early start of between 12am and 2am so that you’re back to the base before 9am when the danger of ice/rock fall is highly likely. Also, once on the upper slopes wearing a helmet would be recommended. 2. Fumaroles Fumaroles are openings or vents on the earth’s crust in volcanic areas that emit poisonous gases like sulfur dioxide, hydrogen chloride and carbon dioxide. These sulfurous gases smell like rotten eggs. They are active all year round. Lingering near these zones might trigger suffocation, nausea and it is potentially fatal. Mitigation Tip: Avoid getting comfortable around these zones and keep your walk steady. 3. Avalanches These are huge masses of snow moving downhill. The velocity of an avalanche increases rapidly in volume and mass as it gains momentum picking up debris and snow on its path. They normally occur due to a temperature increase that causes melting of ice normally between 9am and 1pm, a structural instability or a trigger from climbers. Mitigation Tip: An avalanche condition assessment should be carried out each time a climb is attempted, especially after snowfall in spring. 4. Crevasses These are open and deep cracks that occur in glaciers. They vary in size and depth. On the popular South route of Mt. Hood, the Bergschrund crevasse is the primary one. Other crevasses can be present during spring and summer above Palmer. Mitigation Tip: Navigate carefully around them. 5. Other Climbers Potential of danger is higher when there’s a massive influx of people attempting to climb the mountain especially during the summer and spring months. Mitigation Tip: Be polite and patient. Ensure that there’s adequate space between you and other climbers. Move fast and carefully especially through chutes. Clothing Improper clothing on Mt. Hood would lead to a numbing frost bite. I suggest the 4-layer approach that entails shell, insulation, mid layer and base layer. All clothing should be synthetic or breathable. Gloves, socks, hats and boots and balaclavas should be part of your essential itinerary. Equipment Crampons-These will ensure you have a firm grip on the ice while offering stability and traction. Tip: choose well-fitting and comfortable boots prior to getting crampons. Ice axe-It is quite portable but having the skill to use it for self-arrest is necessary. Practice several times before the climb. Headlamp-You will definitely need a headlamp considering you will be climbing Mt. Hood at night. Shovel-This will ensure that you can quickly dig yourself or someone else out when bad weather pulls the rug under your feet and you/they are stuck in a snow cave. First Aid Kit-You should carry a light-weight kit from which you can dispense aid to yourself or another climber in case of an injury. Other necessary equipment include; gaiters, trekking poles, helmets, map or compass, sun protection cream, overnight gear, a mobile device, climbing harness, rope, food and water. Permits You will require a Wilderness Permit from Climbers’ Cave or Timberline Lodge to access Mt. Hood National Forest. The Climbers’ Registration Form shows the number of people in your team, climbing dates, emergency numbers etc. It is not mandatory but I highly recommend it. It is also acquired from Timberline Lodge. The Sno-Park Permit is seasonally mandatory. It is required by the Transportation Department of Oregon for car users from November through to April. Best time to climb Depending on the route chosen, any time of the year can be ideal to climb Mt. Hood. However, mid-April to mid-July is the best time recommended if using the South Side routes which are the most popular. However, ultimate indicators of the best time to climb should be mountain and weather conditions. Accommodation on Mt. Hood Portland is only a few kilometers away from Mt. Hood (about 2 hours) If you’re a speed maniac possibly an hour. It offers several options for accommodation, easy access to the airport and rental cars. Most climbers opt to leave the city in the late evening so as to climb at night. You may choose to stay in Hood River. It’s an awesome place to stay and is closer to the mountain, though smaller without a major airport. Though expensive, you may prefer to stay in the iconic Timberline Lodge. It is the most convenient and it holds plenty of history for your gulping. Its architecture is equally mind-blowing having been built with giant beams and boulders with rusty finishes and cozy fireplaces. If not, a cheaper alternative, operated by a climbing organization in Portland would be the Mazama Lodge which is also closer to the mountain. The Cascade Huts are more of a Do It Yourself (DIY) kind of huts. They are one-room rustic cabins that accommodate up to 8 people each and are well-stocked with stoves, sleeping bags, utensils etc. During summer the huts provide water and food as well. There are other several inns and resorts that offer affordable accommodation in Government Camp. If you prefer to camp, there are several options for this. Mt. Hood National Forest and the Timberline Lodge Parking lot would suffice if you have an RV. You may also camp on the mountainside but be cautious of rock fall and avalanches. Mountain climbing routes The classic climbing routes are the South Side routes, North Face Right Gully, Cooper’s Spur, Devil’s Kitchen Headwall, Ravine, Sunshine Route, Wy’East, Sandy Glacier Headwall, Reid Glacier Headwall, West Crater Rim Route and Leuthold Couloir. The recommended and popular routes to the summit of Mt. Hood are the South Side Routes. The South Side Route begins at Timberline Lodge parking lot. There are three variations of this route once you get to the Palmer ski lift; the Pearly Gates is most popular with climbers, the Old Chute which is normally an alternative when there’s congestion at the Pearly Gates and the West Crater Rim variation is for climbers who want a challenge. Ascent via the South Side Route Arrive at Timberline Lodge at around 11pm, organize and gear up aiming to begin the climb 12am.