APPETISING VILNIUS

These days, few things represent a is growing every year, when it comes to nation as well as its food. eating out, tourist traps are few and far between. In fact, most places are rather Since the times of the Grand Duke oriented towards quality and aim to Gediminas in the 14th century, Vilnius has attract the same customers again and been famous as a capital open to people again. And of course, the city’s collective of all nationalities and religions, and of openness to global cuisine has made for a course, their cultures and cuisines. From thriving and dynamic restaurant scene. Karaite kibinai and Jewish bagels, to Italian lazankos and German baumkuchen With the help of this guide you’ll discover – many traditions have found their place places in Vilnius where you can eat like in our country’s gastronomy without a Duke in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, overwhelming the national cuisine. a member of a Jewish merchant family, a modern gourmand, someone living in the Lithuanian cuisine is curious, open to Soviet era, a descendant of the Karaites, the world, and has been historically very and so much more. Turn the page and advanced. For example, the dishes served SKANAUS! at the Vilnius residence of King Sigismund II Augustus in the 16th century included ingredients like melons, parsnips, figs, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and more. Most of these ingredients didn’t grow locally or Skanaus! anywhere even close to Lithuania. Bon appétit! Smacznego! The nobility of Vilnius brought luxurious Enjoy your meal! wines and various food products to their Guten Appetit! ןובאיתב manors, and invited foreign chefs to apply their culinary knowledge to local products Смачна есьці! and traditions. This helped formed what Приятного аппетита! are now local flavours. 慢慢吃！ Head isu! Jätku leiba! There was a period after WWII when the Hyvää ruokahalua! country’s gastronomy was stagnant and いただきます had to adapt to the political situation of ¡Buen apetito! the time. However, these days, Lithuanian Labu apetiti! cuisine is being born anew by blending Smaklig måltid! APPETISING ancestral traditions, local products and Смачного! VILNIUS Culinary contemporary needs. Afiyet olsun! guide Although the number of tourists in Vilnius 2 3 CONTENT

08 Expats Tasting Vilnius 14 Overview: Historical Cuisine 20 Overview: Modern Food Halls and Marketplaces 26 Overview: Coffee Crawl 32 Spoiled for Choice: Brunch in Vilnius 38 Spoiled for Choice: Dinner in Vilnius 50 Spoiled for Choice: Vegetarian Restaurants in Vilnius 54 Lunch on a Budget 56 Overview: Nostalgic Pastries 61 Recipe: Curd Donuts 62 Our Perfect Foodie Day in Town 64 Overview: Bars in Vilnius 70 What do Lithuanians Eat for the holidays? 72 10 Foods that Represent Vilnius 76 Litvak Dishes: A Taste of Vilnius 79 Recipe: Litvak Bagels 80 Culinary Events in Vilnius 82 Delicious Souvenirs from Vilnius

Cover photo by Robertas Daskevičius (i4u.lt)

Editor in Chief: Inga Norke Texts: Inga Norke Proofreading: Bradley Castelli Design: Tomas Mozūra Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of this publication. Photos by: Andrej Vasilenko, Ed Reeve, Eglė Juzumienė, Fotopastelė, The creators cannot, however, accept responsibility for errors or Gabrielius Jauniškis, Ignas Vincerževskis, Indrė Kazėnaitė, Monika omissions, but where such errors or omissions are brought to our Krilavičienė, Monika Rukaitė, Reda Mickevičiūtė, Robertas Daskevičius, attention, future publications will be amended accordingly. Tomas Bajorinas, Toma Kaliukevičiūtė, Tomas Preikša, Vilma Deveikytė, The publication reflects the situation as of September 2019. Vincas Alesius, and Šarūnė Zurba.

© Publisher: Public Institution Go Vilnius A big thank you to all the places mentioned www.govilnius.lt in this guide for sharing their moments.

4 5 6 7 Ireland

A must gastro ERICA JENNINGS experience while Singer-Songwriter, named Lithuania’s Singer of the Year in 2017 in Vilnius: If you’re making a Living in Vilnius for 23 years long evening of it, Sweet Root is a good option because it like how much the food scene has Sue’s Indian Raja is the best uses only local and evolved over the past two decades. Indian you’ll find in the Baltics and I seasonal products, It’s incredible when we consider how Poland. No doubt. It’s been around and it’s the first res- much has changed. Back then there for a long time and never once lost taurant in Lithuania were a precious few places where it’s high standards. to have a menu one could eat well, literally counting dictated entirely by them on one hand in the entire Bistro 18 has European cuisine EXPATS the local nature and country...and now we are inundated that includes scrumptious soups, weather conditions. with fantastic culinary options, with and is also a great place to have Expect a five-course both established restaurants and new coffee and chat. The private wine dinner along with delights opening regularly. Lithuania room has a lovely ambiance, too. something special really has a wonderful selection to from the Chef, wine choose from now, and price wise you Rise is an incredible Japanese pairing and stories can find something that suits any restaurant that is unpretentious TASTING about the food being budget. and amazingly affordable, and served, too. Great the food is always out of this service, ambience, Erica’s favourite food and coffee world. and the space is places in town: lovely, too - it’s in Gaspar’s is exceptional. Gaspar RoseHip is a new vegan Užupis, a district the owner is always surprising restaurant and I have to commend that you should defi- guests with mouth-watering dishes, them on being pioneers here in nitely visit while in and the presentation and warmth of creating tasty, flavourful and VILNIUS Vilnius. the place is amazing. original vegan dishes.

8 9 A must gastro MAX BRATSUN experience while Web Designer and Entrepreneur in Vilnius: Living in Vilnius for 13 years Visit the fish res- taurant Šturmų Švyturys; it deserves he best thing about the gastro Max’s favourite food and the highest marks by Tscene in Vilnius is that it’s coffee places in town: all means, especially been ever-changing and growing Backstage Cafe is the absolute when they have sea- since the introduction of the Euro. best coffee spot in Vilnius sonal smelt dishes Competition grows together with for great roasted coffee and available. It’s the purchasing power, and it stimulates delicious brunches. only restaurant in both restaurants and fast food stalls the country serving

to feature more diverse dishes and to The Italian restaurant fresh Lithuanian fish improve the overall dining experience Le Travi serves fantastic and the menu chan- for customers. Personally, I’m a big fan homemade pasta and one-of- ges daily depending of small Italian places and the new food a-kind sparkling wine in a cosy on what they are able Ethiopia courts popping up around the city. and welcoming environment. to catch. One cannot miss this place when in Vilnius. Both the service and the food are spectacular and make for an unfor- gettable dining experience. A must gastro ESKEDAR experience while Entrepreneur, Founder and Manager of Eskedar Coffee in Vilnius: Living in Vilnius for 12 years Kaziukas Fair is a place where I’ve experienced would define Vilnius as a miniature Open Kitchen: The idea is to real Lithuanian melting pot of cultures. You just gather the city’s best food trucks in I cuisine. Also, Open need to push the tiny doors of mini one spot every Friday throughout Belarus Kitchen is one of the restaurants in the Old Town, Užupis the summer. It takes place right in contemporary food and various gastro spaces such as the heart of Vilnius Old Town close experiences you Uptown Bazaar, Open Kitchen etc. to the riverbank of the Vilnele. can have if you’re

around in summer. Eskedar’s favourite food and The Lebanese restaurant Leyla If you want to coffee places in town: and Chaika Cafe are must-visits for experience a culture Say Cheese bistro: I order a combo all vegetarians. within a culture, go of Lithuanian cold beetroot soup to Belmontas. It’s with goat cheese served with grilled Baziliskas on Raugyklos Street a restaurant in the potatoes, and I top it off with a is great for traditional craft middle of a forest perfect cup of Ethiopian coffee. beer tasting. It’s small, cosy and that serves barbecue authentic. and a set of six Rūdninkų knygynas: I love the Lithuanian beers vibe and the interior, which is Also, there are many more hidden in one serving. You beyond a coffee shop. Jazz music gems on the streets of Savičiaus, could also try all the takes you back and forth from Vilnius, Vokiečių, Pilies, and the other Lithuanian Vilnius to Paris, or Vilnius to New district of Užupis. For an industrial dishes at this place. York. set-up, head to Backstage Cafe.

10 11 GASPAR FERNANDES Chef and Owner of Gaspar’s Restaurant A must gastro Living in Vilnius for 5 years experience while in Vilnius: For visitors from like the fact that the food Gaspar’s favourite food and coffee abroad I would say culture here has changed so places in town: I don’t get caught up fast and so much in the last five Crooked Nose & Coffee Storiesfor at the restaurants years. It’s unbelievable to see coffee enthusiasts. that are in the main so many new places, concepts, touristic places, but experiences etc. and I like that I The local specialty coffee do a little research happen to be a part of this too – it bar BREW. on where to eat good allows me to contribute my part local food, or for that and to present Vilnius as a foodie The Mexican-inspired restaurant matter, you could destination that’s just as good as Sofa de Pancho. even go check the London, Paris, or Barcelona. But TOP 30 restaurants Vilnius has its own charm, which Narushi, an authentic Sushi Bar in in Lithuania list as makes it different and unique. the Old Town. you will be better off following this. Peru India A must gastro experience while ANTONIO BECHTLE in Vilnius: Go to Halės Creative Director at Bechtle & Milzarajs, Co-Founder of the Market, pick some content house Clandestinos, and Head Teacher of Creativity at snacks and food The Atomic Garden Vilnius from the different Living in Vilnius for 11 years stands/shops/ bakeries that you Antonio’s favourite food and coffee have there, a bunch ’ve been lucky enough to places in town: of fresh fruit and Iexperience the gradual The cold brew flask atHuracan Coffee. veggies, and with transformation of Vilnius’ that nice mixture gastronomic culture into The spicy rice with pork at Vathaitau. of imported and a blooming and beautiful local products, bouquet, full of passion and The Dal Makhani at Sue’s Indian Raja. go to a park or by variety. And then there is the the river to have a price. Still quite affordable The duck sandwich at Spiritus Bar. picnic with your compared to most of Europe. local friends on a Every time I have guests from The atmosphere in Saint Germain. sunny day. abroad, they are surprised about the quality/price ratio of The oysters at Assorti Gourmet in the food in Vilnius. Halės Market.

12 13 AN INTRODUCTION TO REAL GOTHIC LITHUANIAN FLAVOURS RENAISSANCE Long before potatoes first came on the BAROQUE scene, Lithuanian cuisine was already ENLIGHTENMENT incorporating ingredients like olives, PRE-WAR saffron, and ginger, which is why those popular potato dishes hardly reflect INTERWAR Lithuania’s entire culinary tradition. POST-WAR Our country’s long and colourful history helped form Lithuania’s rich culinary INDEPENDENT heritage, which still even surprises HISTORICAL LITHUANIA native Lithuanians with its diversity.

13th–15th century CUISINE THE GOTHIC PERIOD Lithuania’s land was covered in dense forests, was full of lakes, far from the sea, and yet among the least fertile in the region. For this reason, the most common products used in the kitchen were freshwater fish, rye, buckwheat, and goods found in the wild (mushrooms, honey, hogweed, etc.). However, as the Gothic period saw the formation of the Lithuanian State, the following also found their way into our cuisine:

Various exotic spices Root vegetables Gastronomic culture and dishes (kibinai, koldūnai, etc.) brought by the Tatars and Karaites when they settled in Lithuania

“The public began to appreciate culinary skills in this period. This is indicated by the fact that under the rule of Vytautas the Great, Grand Duke of Lithuania, decadent spices were traded and used to season dishes served to the rulers and nobility.” Chef Tomas Rimydis ......

14 15 THE Bona THE ENLIGHTENMENT Sforza RENAISSANCE At the end of the 18th century, the French ideas of the Enlightenment spread to Lithuania, although at the In terms of gastronomy, the Renaissance is marked same time the State was destroyed and Lithuania become a distant corner of an enormous empire. by Lithuania’s links to Italy. This period was defined Romanticism and French cuisine were the primary by Bona Sforza, the Duchess of Milan, who married inspirations of Lithuania’s gastronomic identity Sigismund I the Old, the King of Poland and Grand under the rule of the Russian Empire. The most Duke of Lithuania, and came to Poland and Lithuania. characteristic features of cuisine in this period are: Various gastronomic innovations appeared in Lithuania during this time: An increase in eating of venison Experiments with simple peasant ingredients An increased use of wine and olive oil in grande cuisine A greater assortment of wheat grain dishes The first books on gastronomy aimed towards the All sorts of products unfamiliar to northerners, public, not professionals especially leafy vegetables and spices The spread of Lithuanian gastronomic traditions to other countries “The northern Renaissance differs from the one in Italy. Lithuania’s Renaissance is a mixture of the “Lithuania enters French gastronomy. In French cookbooks from this period, we can find recipes labelled continuation of the Gothic period and innovations ‘à la Lithuanienne’.” adapted from Italy.” Professor Rimvydas Laužikas Professor Rimvydas Laužikas

16th century late 18th–early 19th century

17th–late 18th century late 19th– 20th century PRE-WAR AND BAROQUE PERIOD In this historical period, the Lithuanian noble Radziwiłł INTERWAR CUISINE family were notable for their love of gastronomy. They were not only one of the richest families in the territory This was the historical period that formed the of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, but in all of Europe as understanding of our nation as we know it today. well. The Radziwiłł family and other nobles constantly The identity of a Lithuanian as someone who spoke travelled abroad and followed the latest trends in Lithuanian, was of peasant origin and critical towards gastronomy, which is why during the Baroque period the Christianity formed during this time. This identity following became popular in their manors: shaped the basis for the understanding of what our national gastronomy is. During this period: The influence of French cuisine and its aesthetics Baked goods from butter dough: cookies, pâtés and the like Books on gastronomy were published in Lithuanian Coffee from the Ottoman Empire Recipes and various tips and tricks became From the Americas – potatoes, cacao, Jerusalem popular in the press artichokes, tomatoes, turkey, etc. Attempts were made to create a national Lithuanian grande cuisine “Baroque cuisine brought together a variety of The general level of the country’s gastronomic unexpected ingredients and different flavours.” culture was raised Professor Rimvydas Laužikas.... Potato dishes increased in popularity

16 17 POST-WAR CUISINE The Soviet occupation brought Lithuania’s culture down, taking gastronomy with it. There was a shortage of food products and the Iron Curtain Restaurant severed links with other countries, which is what had previously kept the culture alive. The select teaching of chefs was replaced by mass training, and most dishes were prepared according to standardised WHAT DID THE recipes. Communication with Western gastro-culture was cut off A list of standardised dishes was introduced LITHUANIAN A shortage of products A formation of the understanding that Lithuanian dishes are primarily potato-based

“During this period, very few recipe books NOBILITY EAT? were published. This is the period where all the ‘cornerstone’ dishes of Lithuanian cuisine came ERTLIO NAMAS from: cepelinai, potato pancakes, cold beet soup, potato sausages, balandėliai, etc. And of course, chefs Ertlio Namas invites guests to taste the cuisine familiar to could only cook from a standardised list, and in that Lithuania’s noble class. Although the dishes are prepared using period there was a shortage of products, so variety in modern culinary technologies and served according to current a menu was neither permitted, nor possible.” aesthetic standards, this restaurant offers a menu that is closest to Chef Tomas Rimydis Lithuania’s historical cuisine.

EXPERIENTIAL. Ertlio Namas offers one of the most radical menus second half of the 20th century in Lithuania and is home to much more than just delicious food – it’s a historical experience that lets guests taste authentic Lithuanian dishes once reserved for the nobility, and learn about the country’s history with 21st century every bite.

APPROVED. Ertlio Namas was named the most hospitable restaurant THE CUISINE OF in Vilnius for two consecutive years and has made it onto the list of Lithuania’s 30 Best Restaurants twice. In recent years, both Forbes and the Financial Times were generous in lauding Ertlio Namas for its INDEPENDENT culinary excellence. Located in Vilnius Old Town, Ertlio Namas recently LITHUANIA opened an additional seating area to accommodate more people. 1990 marked the rebirth of Lithuanian culture, STRICT. Ertlio Namas has one of the strictest menus in Lithuania, and including gastronomy. A connection to foreign though short, it’s based on historical facts. You can choose from a four- flavours was re-established, particularly with regard course (35 Eur) or six-course (45 Eur) tasting menu. Each option includes to Italian, French, and Scandinavian cuisine. Our the chef’s special. The menu is always created in close collaboration with own deep roots were also rediscovered – more and historians. more restaurants turn to our history and interpret the dishes from the old manors or urban culture, as Location: Šv. Jono g. 7 well as those potato dishes that defined us during the Opening hours: I-IV 17:00-22:00, V 17:00-23:00, Soviet era – they too are a part of Lithuania’s culinary VI 13:00-23:00, VII 13:00-22:00 tradition. For more about Lithuania’s contemporary gastronomy – turn the page.

18 19 Capitals around the world are melting pots for many different nations, their cultures and, of course, their flavours. Vilnius UNDER ONE ROOF is no exception, especially since this city has historically been open to people of different nationalities and their traditions. Today, a wide variety of global flavours can be found all under one roof at modern food halls and a few older marketplaces still operating in the city.

UPTOWN BAZAAR BENEDIKTO MARKET Since 2017 Since 2018 When Uptown Bazaar first opened its doors in Vilnius’ Naujamiestis neighbourhood, the first impression You’ll get the impression of being in a Mediterranean marketplace once you step foot in was, “finally, Vilnius has its very own next-generation gastro-market.” The olives at this market will trans- Benedikto. This modern food market is a little bit outside the city centre but definitely worth port you to Crete, the ramen tastes like it comes directly from Sapporo, the pancakes will remind you of the a visit for its wide variety of food on offer and the pleasant atmosphere. Not only can you treat Hague, and the schnitzel is just like in Vienna – and yet it all feels like home, like Vilnius. Uptown Bazaar yourself to a meal at Benedikto Market, but you will also find all sorts of Lithuanian products has over 20 mini restaurants, and you can also buy fresh produce and edible gifts for family and friends. and edible souvenirs at a non-touristy price. In total, there are 32 shops and 9 places to eat.

Location: Opening hours: You’ll enjoy it if you are looking for Location: Opening hours: You’ll enjoy it if you like Kauno g. I-VI 8:30-22:00, a lively and vibrant atmosphere to Ukmergės g. I-VI 9:00-20:00, to visit spots that are 16 VII 8:30-17:00 taste world cuisine. 259A VII 9:00-18:00 popular among locals.

20 21 HALĖS MARKET GOURMET PANORAMA Since 1906 Since 2018

One of the oldest market areas in Vilnius where people have been trading since the 15th century, the Located in a shopping centre mall, this is the first and largest gourmet food hall in the Baltics. There Halės Market building dates back to 1906. It’s where you’ll find produce sold by both small farmers and are 19 different food stores and restaurants represented here, including quality steaks and burgers, larger-scale businesses, remnants of the Soviet-era, as well as trendy new spots with delicious food, like fresh seafood, a wide variety of authentic baked goods, a range of Asian (Vietnamese, Thai, Japanese), bakeries, butchers, cheese and wine shops, a bagel deli, and a bistro. Caribbean and Middle Eastern choices, as well as pizza and other Mediterranean delicacies.

Location: Opening hours: You’ll enjoy it if you appreciate places Location: Opening hours: You’ll enjoy it if you Pylimo g. II-VI 7:00-18:00, that are really authentic yet at the same Saltoniškių g. I-VI 10:00-22:00, fancy a gourmet meal 58 VII 7:00-15:00 time slightly eclectic. 9 VII 10:00-21:00 while shopping.

22 23 DOWNTOWN FOOD HALL KALVARIJŲ MARKET Since 2018 Since 1903

Downtown Food Hall and Kino Deli is the first place in Vilnius where a food hall is also...a movie theatre. This is definitely a different kind of market than the other ones in this guide. It isn’t cool or Housing 14 mini restaurants, Downtown Food Hall has examples of all kinds of global cuisine: sushi, a contemporary, but it is full of very different people selling all kinds of different things. Kalvarijų is where South-East Asian menu, some of the best falafel in the city, various vegan options, juicy burgers, chicken, you can find a lot of local produce. Part of the market is located in pavilions, while the rest of the stalls Chinese food, fish & chips, and, last but not least, desserts. You can enjoy your meal at the tables spread out are outside (no matter the weather – snow in winter or heat in summer). Even if you don’t buy anything, like a food court both inside and on the terrace, or you can take it with you into the movie theatre. Kalvarijų Market is worth the visit for its truly authentic vibe and characteristic Stalinist architecture.

Location: Opening hours: You’ll enjoy it if you are looking for a place with diffe- Location: Opening hours: You’ll enjoy it if you’re not looking for something trendy and A. Smetonos g. I-IV 11:00-21:00, rent meal options right in the city centre. Plus, you can Kalvarijų g. II-VII modern, if you’re interested in the remnants of the Soviet era, and 5 V-VI 11:00-22:00, get kill two birds with one stone: a movie and a meal! 61 7:00-17:00 if you want to buy fresh produce rather than ready-made meals. VII 11:00-19:00 24 25 Archival sources reveal that residents of Vilnius started drinking coffee in the early to mid-17th century. COFFEE TASTE MAP

Location: M. K. Čiurlionio g. 8 Opening hours: I-V 7:00-20:00, VI 9:00-20:00, VII 10:00-19:00

Taste Map owners Ieva and Domas run three cosy places where they offer coffee roasted CRAWL at their family manufactory. Although Taste Map is more of a café than a place for food, you can also find desserts, salads, pies and cheesecakes at each of their locations.

This guide is for coffee lovers There are two more Taste Map coffeehouses in Vilnius (Gynėjų g. 14C and who make a ritual of their Antakalnio g. 17), both are part of the startup favourite warm drink and ecosystem as they are both located in care about where and what popular start-up hubs – Rockit and Vilnius kind of coffee they drink. Tech Park.

26 27 HURACAN STRANGE LOVE This is one of the most respected Location: Barboros Radvilaitės g. 6B coffee culture brands in Vilnius Opening hours: I-IV 8:00-21:00, (formerly Šviežia Kava) and one of the V 8:00-22:00, VI 10:00-22:00, oldest coffeehouse chains operating VII 10:00-20:00 in Lithuania. Its founder, Vytautas Kratulis, started roasting and selling Positioned next to the main entrance to what coffee in a tiny Naujamiestis shop is arguably Vilnius’ most charming park back in 2001. Much like his coffee’s (Bernardinai), Strange Love is a three-in-one: a aroma, word spread far and wide of his coffee shop, a cafe, and a place to escape from the products, so Vytautas opened his first nique bustle of the city without having to leave its very coffeehouse for his regular customers at U centre. the Central Department Store in 2004. Huracan currently has nine locations in Vilnius and also supplies coffee to some places of the best restaurants in the country. BREW. SPECIALTY COFFEE

Location: Pylimo g. 19 Opening hours: I-V 8:00-21:00, VI-VII 9:00-21:00

Brew is a cosy cafe right next to the MO Museum, in an area full of other well-regarded cafes and restaurants. Brew offers its own roasts accompanied by wholesome desserts, delicious bowls, sandwiches, and of course, smiling baristas. CROOKED NOSE Vytautas Kratulis & COFFEE STORIES Owner of Huracan, coffee connoisseur and organiser Location: Šaltinių g. 20-17 of the first International Coffee Championship in Lithuania Opening hours: IV-VI 10:00-16:00

I believe Vilnius is well ahead of its neighbouring Baltic capitals Riga and Tallinn in terms of its It’s a rather niche place where guests are invited coffee culture. We have a lot of places where you can discover some interesting and unusual coffee to enjoy their coffee slowly, so it’s best if you flavours. Plus many coffee shop owners have a keen interest in coffee preparation processes and come here when you’re not in a rush. The owner, take the time to educate their customers. This is very important to me, which is why we don’t serve Emanuelis, roasts coffee from different parts of and have no plans to ever serve food at Huracan (except for small coffee desserts). The focus here the world himself and prepares it using different is on the coffee. My personal goal is to be part of our urban culture and to multiply quality, that is, to methods. As he puts it himself, the day either has provide people with the flavours of different coffee varieties that have been awarded prizes at various a taste or it doesn’t. Meaning a day is tasteless events or have been discovered at some priceless auctions – all that at a reasonable price. without good coffee.

28 29 RAŠTINĖ Two Location: J. Basanavičiaus g. 2 Opening hours: I-V 9:00-20:00, in one V-VI 10:00-20:00, VII 11:00-18:00 Run by a couple, Ieva and Saulius, this is not only a quality coffeehouse, but also a shop selling a selection of stationery, books and magazines. This combination is perfectly complemented by the minimalist decor and wholesome desserts, such as Largest gluten and sugar-free vegan sweets.

Raštinė is located close to the MO Museum, one coffeehouse Rukaitė Monika by Photo of the top modern cultural spaces in the city. ELSKA COFFEE VERO CAFE chains MY PERFECT There are currently 14 Vero Cafe locations in Location: Pamėnkalnio g. 1 Vilnius. When ordering, you always have a choice of FOODIE DAY Opening hours: I-V 7:00-21:00, freshly roasted beans, usually one of the standard According to Blogger Simona Burbaitė VI-VII 8:00-21:00 varieties and one specialty. Vero Cafe is known for @geriausiadrauge.lt its unpretentious ambience, which attracts people Elska is where you’ll meet all kinds of people: those of various age groups. START THE DAY enjoying their coffee quietly and watching passers- I would start my perfect gastronomic day at by, professionals working on their laptops, and Elska Coffee; they serve absolutely delicious groups of friends or colleagues. You will also find coffee and decadent desserts that you can some balanced food free of any additives. Avocado enjoy guilt-free. toast and chia pudding are said to be among the COFFEE BREAK café’s most popular food choices. I would go to Huracán Coffee; I’ve been a fan of their coffee for the past five years. To me, Elska is located on a busy intersection and they have the absolute best coffee in Vilnius shares a space with the Pamėnkalnio Art Gallery, and all of Lithuania, for that matter. where exhibitions have been on display since 1960! LUNCH! For a perfect lunch, I would go to Daily Poison and order the zucchini noodles. By BACKSTAGE CAFE the way, the idea for this café came from Bali. Location: Ševčenkos g. 16h-9 It has a fantastic atmosphere, and I really Opening hours: I-IV 9:00-19:00, like the interior here. V 9:00-23:00, VI 10:00-23:00, VII 10:00-17:00 SWEETS For my afternoon tea and dessert I always Backstage is located in a fashionable area CAFFEINE go to Liu Patty, so for a perfect foodie day I – the maze of lofts and creative workshops would obviously go there. I always order the in the yard of the Ševčenkos Street 16 Undoubtedly the largest coffeehouse chain in sugar-free coffee cake. compound. The owners, Vytenis and Ieva, Lithuania, with a bright orange logo that can once had a photo studio here, but then they be seen from afar. Caffeine took the Lithuanian DINNER converted it into a cosy coffeehouse with a market by storm in 2006 and immediately To end my perfect day, I would choose roasting room on the first floor. You can also became a hotspot for everyone in the city: from Džiaugsmas. However, a few times I wasn’t have a snack here, and the local signature students to business people. There are currently able to get a table, so make sure to reserve a dish is key lime pie. 30 Caffeine locations in Vilnius. table in advance, or you may be disappointed.

30 31 STEBUKLAI When this restaurant started offering breakfast, it was an instant hit. Of BRUNCH course, it all comes down to chef Martynas Praškevičius, who has been voted the country’s best chef several times and was one of the first to start promoting brunch in Vilnius. Incidentally, the Stebuklai IN VILNIUS weekend brunch menu is a little bit more extensive than the one served on weekdays. À la carte, your choice ranges from Eggs Benedict, a hearty SPOILED FOR CHOICE English Breakfast, French omelettes and Mexican eggs, to shakshuka, sandwiches with excellent There are many restaurants in central Vilnius that offer weekend brunch homemade bread, as well as fried and menus, but this guide only highlights the most popular ones that have boiled varškėtukai curd dumplings, already made their name among residents of Vilnius. Be warned though: which, by the way, are Stebuklai’s it’s always better to book in advance. bestseller at breakfast. Location: Breakfast/brunch Average price: Gynėjų g. time: I-V 8:00-11:00, 8 Eur 14 VI-VII 8:00-14:00 per item GASPAR’S A la carteĮSTVIRTINĘ Gaspar, the chef and owner of the MEAT restaurant that borrows his name, is PUSRYČIŲ known for a culinary style that is trail- MEAT, a steakhouse opened by one A LA CARTE blazing in Vilnius. His brunches are of Lithuania’s top chefs, is tucked no different. They mostly experiment away just across the Neris River MIESTE with traditional Indian and Goan from the hustle and bustle of the cuisines, mixing them with familiar Old Town. It normally emanates an local ingredients. Sundays at Gaspar’s elegant restaurant ambience, except are a true gastronomic feast as soon from 10:00 to 17:00 on Saturdays as the doors open in the morning. and Sundays, when families gather For example, English Breakfast is for brunch. The buzz they bring with served on Indian bread with home- them is welcome on weekends. As made spicy sausage, mushrooms, for the menu, it offers as many as 10 bacon, tomato confit,and asparagus. variations of Eggs Benedict (classic, Whereas the masala omelette comes Korean, Israeli, Mexican, etc.). Other with crab meat, green asparagus and breakfast icons include Spanish garlic sauce. Vegetarians also praise Churros and American pancakes. Gaspar’s English Breakfast on Indian They also offers a kids menu. bread with homemade vegetable sau- sage and a nice assortment of sides. However, this internationally ac- Location: Brunch time: Average price: claimed local restaurant doesn’t have Location: Brunch time: Average price: A. Juozapavi- VI-VII 6 Eur many tables, so it is advisable to make Pylimo g. VII 6.5 Eur čiaus g. 13 10:00-17:00 per item a reservation in advance. 23-3 10:00-15:00 per item

32 33 TIME BARDAKAS At Time, brunch begins with a glass Bardakas, the Lithuanian word for of sparkling wine and continues anarchy and craziness, is located to amaze you at every turn. On in the very centre of the city on the Sundays, the restaurant’s tables are boisterous Vilniaus Street. The bar laden with plenty of food to choose owners say that it’s filled with insane from, even some items you wouldn’t people who come here for insane necessarily expect for a weekend parties at night (by the way, they tend breakfast. In total, they serve about to play more pop music than Kablys), a dozen cold starters, several fish and on Sundays they serve a hearty and meat main courses, a few soups, breakfast buffet with a wide selection and a selection of desserts. And for all tastes: from traditional they almost always have Time’s varškėtukai curd dumplings and own sweet trademark, crème brûlée. buns, pancakes and omelettes, to ribs, This is undoubtedly one of the top lasagne, mussels, baked potatoes, gourmet brunches in town. and much more. The price doesn’t include beverages.

Location: Brunch time: Price: Location: Brunch time: Price: Mindaugo g. VII 29 Vilniaus g. VII 12 All 27 12:30-16:30 Eur 22 12:00-15:00 Eur inclusive TELEGRAFAS KABLYS/ The restaurant at Grand Hotel Kempinski Vilnius has a royal SAULĖS brunch with one of the best views in the city – right onto JĖGAINĖ Vilnius Cathedral Square. A rich buffet selection includes Kablys (The Hook) is a legendary items like caviar, while dishes building that once served as a and drinks can also be ordered clubhouse for railroad workers and à la carte. Once you’ve decided is now home to some of the city’s to pamper yourself like this, noisiest parties and conceptual you’d be well advised to dress events. On weekends, residents of up a little. After all, there’s Vilnius and guests to the city gather never too much joy in life! here to share their impressions over brunch. On Sundays, Kablys offers a brunch buffet (snacks, hot meals, salads, desserts and fruits). The 12 Eur price includes Eggs Benedict with a side of choice, coffee or tea, and a mimosa or orange juice. On Location: Breakfast/brunch Price: Location: Brunch time: Price: 35 Eur, Saturdays, brunch is also served all Kauno g. time: 12 Universiteto g. VI-VII 55 Eur (including day long, but only à la carte. 5 VI-VII 11:00-17:00 Eur 14 7:00-14:00 Champagne)

34 35 DAILY SUGAMOUR This dessert boutique is known for POISON its eye-catching interior and exterior, which changes with the seasons Daily Poison offers brightly coloured and is visible from a distance. It’s super-foods, which are real energy a distinctive landmark in one of bombs, from morning to evening at the busiest areas of the Old Town – a good price. The breakfast menu Vokiečių Street. Another important includes a number of egg dishes, reason to keep coming back to wholesome bowls made with organic Sugamour is its wide selection of products, and amazing American exquisite handmade desserts as well pancakes. There are also quite a few as the possibility to have breakfast vegan options. The atmosphere here all day: from 7:30 until late at night. is completely casual and minimalist- Their menu is really extensive (more industrial in style, but some details than just breakfast) and appeal to (including the menu) make it similar foodiess, travellers, health food fans to the trendy breakfast lounges of Bali. alike, as well as those looking for fine dining or jan elegant setting for a business meeting. Sugamour was voted the friendliest dessert lounge Location: Breakfast/brunch Average price: in Vilnius in 2018. Location: Brunch time: Average price: J. Jasinskio g. time: I-IV 7:30-17:00, 5 Eur Vokiečių g. I, VII 7:30-23:00, 6.5 Eur All day 14A-101 VI-VII 9:00-15:00 per item 11 II-VI 7:30-00:00 per item breakfast THE LITTLE BAGEL SHOP KAVOS ERA Kavos Era is run by a family that (BEIGELIŲ believes you should eat breakfast whenever you feel like it, not when KRAUTUVĖLĖ) the clock tells you to, which is why they serve breakfast all day every Read more about this place and day. The firstKavos Era breakfast its mission in the chapter on club opened five years ago in Vilnius’ Jewish culinary heritage in Vilnius Naujamiestis neighbourhood. Two (page 76). It is the only place in the other locations have popped up since, city that serves kosher breakfast. but only as parts of larger food halls. Kosher Challah is pulled from the At Kavos Era you can actually try oven here every Friday at noon. At Guatemala Santa Elena coffee, which the Little Bagel Shop you can also is grown between two volcanoes at enjoy shakshuka, matza, kneidlah an altitude of 550 metres. soup, all sorts of bagels, and other kosher dishes every day (except on Saturday, the Sabbath). Location: Time: I-IV 10:00-19:00, Average price: Location: Brunch time: Average price Pylimo g. V 10:00-16:00, 3 Eur Savanorių pr. I-V 7:30-18:00, for a meal: 4 VII 10-18:00 per item 6 VI-VII 9:00-18:00 5 Eur

36 37 The vast majority of the restaurants mentioned in this guide didn’t even exist a decade ago. Needless to say, the past few years have been very productive, to the delight of foodies in Vilnius hungry for fine dining experiences, vegetarian and vegan options, exotic cuisine, and food that supports a healthy lifestyle.

Newly opened places are now subject to high standards, which motivate WHAT’S them to push their limits in the kitchen while providing exceptional service and interior designs, creative drink lists and chef’s specials, and of course, top-quality products. Each restaurant also sees the value in forming close relationships with farmers, suppliers, FOR fishermen, and their clientele. Vilnius has a long history of being open to diverse cultures and their culinary traditions, and this has never been truer of the curious city than it is today. It’s had a huge impact on the current food scene, which can be experienced at the country’s top restaurants (30bestrestaurants.lt), where guests can eat great food and witness the evolution Location: Price of DINNER? Didžioji g. 7 until 01/01/2020, of modern Lithuanian cuisine. dinner: Dominikonų g. 11 from €€€€ 01/05/2020 A gastronomic renaissance coincided with Lithuania gaining its independence in 1990. First, we wanted to try everything that people in the Soviet era couldn’t even dream of, like NINETEEN18 Italian classics, French delicacies, fancy seafood, sushi, American burgers and This restaurant owns a farm 77km outside of more. the city known as the Farmer’s Circle, where it sources a large part of the unusual, wild, and Once we tried everything, we came to seasonal products that it serves to customers. a collective realisation that some of Undoubtedly, Nineteen18 and its talented the best flavour combinations can be chef, Matas Paulinas, will even surprise the found right here in our own country. foodies who think they’ve seen it all. The As a result, more and more restaurants search for the identity and taste of Lithuanian are focusing on incorporating local cuisine will make your head spin at this produce into their menus and revisiting restaurant, so don’t expect an easy approach techniques and ingredients popular to this topic. among our ancestors. So, let us begin this guide to eating out in Vilnius with a Degustation dinner at Nineteen18 – foray into modern Lithuanian flavours. 115 Eur per person.

38 39 SWEET ROOT ŠTURMŲ This is the first restaurant in Vilnius that ŠVYTURYS decided to become completely dependent on the changing seasons. All of the food The only fresh, non-frozen wild products used here are Lithuanian, and the Lithuanian fish restaurant in the menu is updated not on a seasonal basis, but country, Šturmų Švyturys creates a micro-seasonally. This means that Sweet unique coastal atmosphere several Root always has something interesting to hundred kilometres from the sea in offer throughout the year. Their dishes are Vilnius’ Užupis neighbourhood. It’s presented based on a constantly changing where you can always find the delicious menu and served as a degustation dinner: šturmų fish soup, as well as several cold seven dishes and seven single-bite stories. dishes, one hot dish, and a dessert that It has been like this for six years, four days are always changing. The short but a week. well thought out menu changes daily and is dependent on the success of the Sweet Root’s degustation dinner is 75 Eur fishermen off Lithuania’s coast. By the per person. way, this restaurant asks that you only bring children ages 12 and older. Location: Opening hours: Price of Užupio g. I-VII dinner: Lithuanian 30 12:00-22:00 €€€ Location: Opening hours: Price of Užupio g. III-VI dinner: modern QUEENSBERRY 22 18:00-23:00 €€€ With a big focus on Lithuanian wine and cuisine modern local cuisine, Queensberry offers their take authentic Lithuanian recipes from different regions across the country. The menu offers classics likecepelinai , zrazai, DŽIAUGSMAS and country-style herring, as well as all sorts of different traditional Lithuanian meals, Although they’ve been voted the best but with a Queensberry twist. Their wine restaurant in Lithuania for the past two list is worth mentioning separately – about years, Džiaugsmas does not claim to be a 50 of their wines are made following old fine dining establishment. In fact, it’s quite Lithuanian recipes. the opposite – Džiaugsmas chef and owner, Martynas Praškevičius, invites people to relax while really tasting and sharing their meals, some of which are even meant to be eaten with your hands. Quality is the recipe for success at this place – all of the main ingredients on the menu are Lithuanian and of the highest class, purchased directly from local farmers.

Džiaugsmas has both an à la carte and Location: Opening hours: Price of Location: Opening hours: Price of tasting menu consisting of nine dishes at Vilniaus g. I-VI dinner: Didžioji g. VII-IV 11:00-00:00, dinner: 60 Eur per person. 28 17:00-23:00 €€ 18 V-VI 11:00-01:00 €€

40 41 DA ANTONIO SAINT This restaurant should appear on the GERMAIN How about radars of those looking for classic Italian flavours combined with a Saint Germain is one of the oldest little something new. Their long-time restaurants in Lithuania, offering a some Italian chef, Dmitrij Babenko, is constantly high level of service and an à la carte searching for unusual forms and menu appreciated by movie stars combinations of Italian dishes on the like Jeremy Irons, John Malkovich, dishes? basis of the cuisine’s classic canons, Daniel Craig and Naomi Watts, who and his significant experience studying all ate here while shooting films Italian cuisine. The menu here, as is in Vilnius. By the way, beyond its common in Italy, begins with first and unwavering loyalty to French cuisine, second courses, followed by a meat or this restaurant also boasts a very fish course cooked on the grill, with the impressive wine list. grand finale being dessert.

Location: Opening hours: Price of Literatų g. I-VII dinner: 9 11:00-23:00 €€€

Location: Opening hours: Price of Vilniaus g. I-V 11:00-23:00, dinner: French 23 VI-VII 12:00-23:00 €€€ classics? STIKLIAI This is the longest-operating private restaurant in Lithuania, and is a LE TRAVI culinary institute known for bringing up and inspiring several generations If you’re looking for something of local chefs. Since its very beginning, simple but definitely not subpar, Stikliai’s menu has been faithful to the Le Travi is a good choice for an tried and true school of French cuisine. Italian meal. This restaurant’s chef Prior to joining the Stikliai team, Chef specialises in pasta and wines, so Gerdvilas Žalys worked at one of the 15 their menu is not very long. However, best restaurants in the world for three the good Italian food and cosy Location: Opening hours: Price of Location: Opening hours: Price of years with French gastronomy legend atmosphere are definitely delivered Užupio g. II-IV 17:00-22:00, dinner: Gaono g. I-V 18:00-00:00, dinner: Joël Robuchon, at his L‘Atelier de Joël by the chef and host, Mattia. 19 V 17:00-23:00, VI 12:00- €€ 7 VI 12:00-00:00 €€€€ Robuchon Saint-Germain. 23:00, VII 12:00-22:00 42 43 Seafood? Spanish SELFISH cuisine?

You can eat seafood at many places in EL MERCADO Vilnius, but you would be hard-pressed This is a restaurant-marketplace where, to find another restaurant where the in line with all the Spanish traditions, you extensive menu is dedicated entirely to can snack at the bar, eat a hearty meal at seafood. Selfish is rather popular among one of the tables, or shop for some gourmet residents of Vilnius, which allows the food. El Mercado prepares meals from restaurant to offer fresh and quality various regions of Spain, like Catalonia, seafood at affordable prices. Galicia, Murcia, Andalusia and elsewhere. All the dishes are carefully selected by the Selfish also has locations at Uptown restaurant’s owner, Vilija, who spends a lot Bazaar and Gourmet Panorama. time in Spain.

Location: Opening hours: Price of Location: Opening hours: Price of Vilniaus g. I-III 17:00-23:00, dinner: Didžioji g. I-IV 17:00-23:00, dinner: 29 IV 17:00-00:00, €€ 3 V 17:00-01:00, €€€ V 17:00-01:00, VI 12:00-01:00, VI 14:00-01:00, VII 12:00-22:00 VII 14:00-23:00 A taste of Mexican Scandinavia? cuisine? AMANDUS SOFA DE One of the most renowned chefs in the country, Deivydas Praspaliauskas, is devoted PANCHO to Scandinavian cuisine. After studying and interning in Copenhagen, he returned to The team at Sofa de Pancho are the Mexican Lithuania where he was the first to invite cuisine experts of Vilnius, and the host people to degustation dinners, which still take Diana has spent a lot of time in Mexico, place to this day. Together with his knowledge where she delved deep into the country’s of Scandinavian cuisine, he also brought with varied flavours. For the past eight years, him the ideas of zero waste and ecologically together with her husband Rimvydas, in balanced meals. Vilnius (and Lithuania’s resort town Nida), Location: Opening hours: Price of Location: Opening hours: Price of they have created a restaurant inspired The ten-step degustation dinner at Amandus Pilies g. I-VII dinner: Visų II-V 17:00-23:00, dinner: by Mexico, which you go to when craving is 55 Eur per person. 34 12:00-23:00 €€€ Šventųjų g. 5 VI 13:00-23:00 €€€ something exotic.

44 45 GASPAR’S TELEGRAFAS Gaspar himself comes from the island Part of the Grand Hotel Kempinski, of Goa in India, and he brings a special the dishes at Telegrafas suit all sorts spice mix prepared by his family to his of different tastes. Nearly all of them restaurant, which distinguishes its have a certain Lithuanian twist. menu from all others in the city. Not Dinner at this restaurant is both too long ago, Gaspar had to expand and delicious and healthy: appetisers add tables, because there’s a pretty at Telegrafas are fat-free, while the high demand for his modern take on desserts are perfectly balanced and Indian cuisine, which uses only the the main courses are served with freshest local products. lower-calorie side dishes.

Telegrafas has both an à la carte and tasting menu that starts at Indian 60 Eur per person.

Location: Opening hours: Price of Location: Opening hours: Price of Pylimo g. I-IV 12:00-22:30, dinner: dinner? Universiteto I-V 18:30-22:30, dinner: 23-3 V-VI 12:00-23:00, €€ g. 14 VI-VII 07:00-14:00 €€€ VII 10:00-20:30 Some SUE’S INDIAN modern RAJA classics? Sue’s Indian Raja offers a wide variety of Indian cuisine, including spicy curry, tandoori baked in a real clay oven, DINE appetisers like samosas, pakora, chaat, and Dine is perfect for those who appreciate more. However, most of all, Sue’s Indian privacy, high-class service, and a carefully Raja is known for its stable quality and the selected menu. People return to Dine again spices and rice it uses, which are brought and again for their favourite dishes, which all the way from India. By the way, the always stay on the menu (for example, the host himself hails from India, too! And yet exquisite octopus with young potatoes and another delightful detail – the restaurant’s homemade duck sausage), as well as the windows look out on to city’s iconic professionally selected wines. One of the Cathedral Square! Location: Opening hours: Price of Location: Opening hours: Price of hosts of Dine is Arminas Darasevičius, a Odminių g. I 17:00-23:00, dinner: Gedimino I-III 11:30-22:00, dinner: sommelier who is considered to be among 3 II-VII 11:00-23:00 €€ pr. 35 IV-VI 11:30-23:00 €€€ the best in Lithuania.

46 47 RAMENAS IR PAGALIUKAI This restaurant lets you quickly slurp up some noodles, devour a Yakitori chicken skewer and some Gyoza dumplings, and then be on your merry way. In the evenings, the atmosphere seems to calm down and feels more like a Japanese gastro pub. By the way, they make their noodles fresh daily and the broth is constantly being boiled anew.

You can also findRamenas ir Pagaliukai at Uptown Bazaar and Ogmios Miestas shopping mall. BRIUSLY This place is popular among the city’s youth, Location: Opening hours: Price of partly because the restaurant’s second floor L. Stuokos- I-IV 16:30-21:00, dinner: is home to Opium, one of Vilnius’ trendiest Gucevičiaus g. 7 V-VI 12:00-21:00, € nightclubs. Nevertheless, this place can be VII 12:00-18:00 enjoyed by anyone who appreciates pan-Asian flavours. The food at Briusly is both delicious and reasonably priced. Location: Opening hours: Price of Something Islandijos g. I-IV 11:00-00:00, dinner: 4 V 11:00-05:00, € VI 12:00-05:00, Japanese? VII 12:00-02:00 NARUSHI

Looking for authentic Japanese flavours? Come to Narushi, located not far from the Pan- legendary Halės Market. They only opened their doors in 2019 and are already on their way to becoming the best sushi place in asian? Vilnius. SAIGON If you’re looking for Vietnamese cuisine, the extensive and delicious menu at Saigon is something you should look into. Chef Minth Thui is responsible for curating Saigon’s menu, while a team of Vietnamese cooks work in the kitchen. The pho soups here are exceptional.

Location: Opening hours: Price of Location: Opening hours: Price of Saigon can also be found at Gourmet Pylimo g. II-VI dinner: A. Jakšto g. II-V 17:00-22:00, dinner: Panorama and Ogmios Miestas shopping 60 11:00-22:00 €€ 7 VI-VII 12:00-22:00 €€ malls.

48 49 CASA LA FAMILIA Location: Rūdninkų g. 18 Opening hours: I-IV 11:30-22:00, VEGETARIAN V 11:30-23:00, VI 12:00-23:00, VII 12:00-22:00 A pizzeria with its own clay oven used to make some of city’s best vegetarian and vegan pizzas. Even non-vegetarians appreciate these exceptionally delicious pizzas. Long lines always form at the Casa La Familia booth when they set RESTAURANTS one up at festivals and other celebrations, which obviously means that their food is very good! This place is especially family-friendly and has a spacious playroom. IN VILNIUS HOLIGANS Location: Verkių g. 29, Ogmios miestas Opening hours: I-IV 12:00-20:00, V-VI 12:00-21:00, VII 12:30-18:00

Not far from the city’s largest outlet mall, Holigans is a bistro that serves local organic vegetarian food. All of their dishes are bursting with colour and leave you feeling good, both inside and out. Buddha bowls, burgers, Indian food, and tacos – everything is prepared according to the happy food concept (i.e. made only from plant- based products). You can also find a Holigans at the Downtown Food Hall. RADHARANĖ Gedimino pr. 32 Until just recently, Vilnius barely Location: Opening hours: I-VII 11:00-21:00 had any vegetarian eateries, but these days there are plenty to A family-owned restaurant that feels like home. choose from, with the selection Grandmother Vidutė grows the teas and berries, local farmer Ričardas provides the cheese, and the as varied as it is colourful. All you pastries are baked daily. Radharanė’s extensive need to do is decide where you want menu is filled with stews, cutlets, salads, samosas, to eat today. bakes, and more. Their cakes, Indian sweets and oven-baked bread deserve an additional round of applause. You can also find a Radharanė at the Ozas shopping centre food court.

50 51 ROSEHIP VIETA Location: B. Radvilaitės g. 7 Location: Šv. Ignoto g. 12-1 Opening hours: I-IV 11:30-22:00, Opening hours: I-V 11:30-23:00, V-VI 11:00-22:30, VII 11:00-22:00 VI 12:00-23:00

RoseHip is a restaurant that offers an exclusively Located on a small cosy street in Vilnius Old vegan menu. However, it can still be a place of new Town, Vieta offers delicious and affordably priced discoveries and experiences for those who do not vegetarian and vegan lunch options, which change usually eat vegan. Guests will find a variety of inte depending on what fresh produce the kitchen re- resting combinations, flavours, and techniques, which ceives that day. They also have an à la carte menu. will no doubt inspire them to taste more of what this By the way, a lot can happen behind the bar on restaurant has to offer. RoseHip’s most popular burger weekends...and sometimes all over it! So come to is made with pulled jackfruit, which in flavour and Vieta, even if you’re not just hungry. texture is actually reminiscent of pulled pork. You can also find a RoseHip at the G9 food hall. VEGAFE BALTI DRAMBLIAI Location: Totorių g. 3 Location: Vilniaus g. 41 Opening hours: I-V 11:00-22:00, Opening hours: I-III 11:00-00:00, VI-VII 12:00-22:00 IV 11:00-02:00, V 11:00-4:00, VI 12:00-4:00, VII 12:00-00:00 Vegafe observes the principles of an Ayurvedic diet, which is why their vegetarian At nearly two-decades old, Balti Drambliai was the menu doesn’t contain any eggs, broth, first vegetarian restaurant of its kind in the city. mushrooms, yeast, flavour enhancers, animal It was here that many people in Vilnius had their gelatine, garlic, or onions. Do you know what first experience with interesting vegetarian dishes. a lactovegetarian diet is? If not, then come to Balti Drambliai often hosts concerts, poetry nights Vegafe and find out! and other cultural gatherings, and it’s worth noting that this restaurant is located in the underground tunnels of the Radziwiłł Palace. Beware, once you go down those steps, you will lose all track of time. ZATAR FALAFEL GYVAS BARAS & HUMMUS Location: Trakų g. 11 Location: Vokiečių g. 9 Opening hours: I-III 11:30-22:00, Opening hours: I-IV 11:00-23:00, IV-V 11:30-23:45, VI 12:00-23:45, V-VI 11:00-1:00, VII 11:00-21:00 VII 13:00-21:00

Falafel with hummus is a meal option that many Lithuania’s first vegan restaurant is vegetarians know and love. This dish, as presented also home to a collection of vintage by the vegetarian bistro Zatar in the heart of Vilnius, TVs that broadcast football and is practically just as delicious as it is in its homeland. basketball matches. This is why, By the way, Zatar is open until very late, which unlike other vegan places, Gyvas also makes it the perfect place for a late-night snack. serves beer, including a wide variety of You can also find a Zatar Falafel & Hummus at the Lithuanian and foreign craft beers. Downtown Food Hall.

52 53 MONTUOTOJAS Location: Naugarduko g. 34 Opening hours: I-V 9:00-16:00

This legendary canteen is familiar to most people LUNCH ON in Vilnius. Although it’s not very big and is only open for lunch, it’s worth coming here to try the inexpensive and hearty meals on offer, especially if you’re on your way to visit the trendy Ševčenkos loft quarter, which is a must-see in Vilnius’ Naujamiestis neighbourhood. A BUDGET UPĖS BISTRO Žvejų g. 2 One can Location: still eat at any Opening hours: I-V 10:00-16:00 one of these Not too long ago this was the location of a real places for less canteen, Prie Neries, but even when the place than 5 Eur changed its status to a bistro, the walls, counter, and canteen-style serving of food remained the same. In addition, every day you can choose from around 7 or 8 dishes, most of which are examples of traditional cuisine from previous decades. PAS ŽILVINĄ Location: Švitrigailos g. 26 Opening hours: I-V 9:00-19:00 This spot’s owner, with his down-to-earth attitude FEATURES OF A and attention to each and every customer, leaves a lasting impression. He spends his time in the TRADITIONAL kitchen, making traditional dishes and conversing with customers. And even though Pas Žilviną has CANTEEN been a legendary canteen for years, Žilvinas is ready to rebrand. “If McDonald’s can be called a Some of the canteens in Vilnius can take you back Lunch at canteens is usually restaurant, why not us, too?” he once said. prepared earlier in the day in time to the 1980s, or even earlier. The food served in these establishments is usually the same as it was SULTINIAI Guests order at the counter decades ago. For curious travellers, these canteens are Location: Jogailos g. 8 and pick up their own food the perfect opportunity to sample the same meals that Opening hours: I-V 9:00-19:00, VI 10:00-18:00 several generations grew up with in the Soviet era. Often there is a choice between This canteen located in the city centre transports several side dishes Since canteens are rapidly disappearing nowadays, you back in time as soon as you step foot in it. Food You pay at the checkout before eating or some of them are transforming to become more has been prepared and served here since 1969, and more like modern fast food places or bistros, it but it seems like it was only yesterday – nothing Usually, there are no servers at is becoming difficult to find authentic options. The much has changed. The authentic interior draws canteens, so you have to put your Montuotojas, Pas Žilviną, and Sultiniai canteens can in the older generation who come for the nostalgia, own dishes away. easily be considered classics in Vilnius. curious visitors to the city, and even young people. The menu changes daily and you can be certain to find all the classics our grandparents once enjoyed.

54 55 Skruzdėlynas

With a shape that is reminiscent of an anthill, this aptly NOS- named dessert is made from the same dough as žagarėliai. A skruzdėlynas is made by carefully placing thin sheets of deep- fried dough on top of one another, and then drizzling them with honey TALGIC and sprinkling them with poppy seeds or chopped hazelnuts to resemble tiny ants. BY BLOGGER RENATA PAS- NIČAJIENĖ TRIES

Despite these desserts not even being Lithuanian, they are familiar to nearly every person in Lithuania. To a greater or lesser degree, almost all of these pastries are a source of nostalgia. So, here is a short introduction to each of them. Maybe you’ll discover your favourite one as well.

56 57 Braided yeast roll with poppy seeds TWO OF THE MOST (Riestė). More of a seasonal Fotopastelė dessert, Riestė has been baked POPULAR DESSERTS for generations during the holi- day season and fills homes with IN LITHUANIA AND the aroma of Christmas. Poppy seeds are an archaic local ingre- NEIGHBOURING dient and have been widely used in Lithuanian cooking for a long COUNTRIES time; as a filling for pastries, an ingredient in kūčiukai, and for making poppy milk.

Žagarėliai. A seasonal dessert usually baked in Febru- Renata is a food blogger ary for the traditional Užgavėnės and author of the holiday (Shrove Tuesday), when cookbook Nostalgiški winter is symbolically banished. Skanumynai and There are many different types postcards collection of žagarėliai – they can be baked Sweet Treats From from puff pastry, curd, or yeast Lithuania. dough – but they are always deep-fried, traditionally in lard. Lingonberry mousse. A final touch is added by sprin- This type of mousse, which has kling some powdered sugar on become somewhat forgotten top. these days, is an old dessert

; photographer: Eglė Juzumien ; photographer: made from berries, egg whites Curd cheese dough- and sugar. Sometimes available nuts (Spurgos). at restaurants with a menu rep- Although they can be found resenting historical cuisine, it is around the world, curd cheese nevertheless a simple treat that doughnuts likely originated can easily be made at home.

in Lithuania. Like žagarėliai, skanumynai Nostalgiški these deep-fried pastries are Grybukai. With their traditionally an Užgavėnės treat, delightful mushroom shape although they are enjoyed much (hence their Lithuanian name), more often than just once a year. this dessert can be found on the shelves of any Lithuanian Riestainiai. Bagels, bakery. They are made either

popular worldwide, are actually the book from Photographs from gingerbread or biscuit a relative of Lithuanian dough. The former are then riestainiai. A traditional moulded by hand, while the staple of street fairs in Vilnius, Napoleon cake. Russians (tort Napoleon) and Poles Honey cake. A favourite among latter are shaped with moulds. they were popularised by (Napoleonka) also make this type of cake, which makes it difficult to anyone with a sweet tooth, honey cakes Grybukai used to be intricately the local Jewish community. say which nation started baking the Napoleon first. Only one thing is can be found at most bakeries in Lithuania. decorated with multi-coloured Traditionally, riestainiai are clear: it rose in popularity during Napoleon Bonaparte’s march into Many people associate this dessert with icing to make them resemble made from yeast dough, boiled Russia. However, experts disagree on the true origin of the Napoleon, fond memories, but it actually has its roots boletus mushrooms and the red in water, baked, and sprinkled since a cream-spread puff pastry cake can be found in many countries, in the East among the Slavs, and it likely and white amanita muscaria with poppy seeds. such as the French and Italian millefeuille (1000 layers), the British came to our country and became popular toadstools as well. vanilla slice or cream slice, and other examples. only in the Soviet era.

58 59 Recipe CURD DONUTS

For 30 small curd donuts: 400 gc urd • 200 g flour • 50 g sugar • 1 teaspoon baking powder • 2 eggs • 1 teaspoon vanilla sugar • 30 fresh cranberries • 500 ml oil for deep-frying • powdered sugar for decoration

SOVIET DESSERTS Draugystė is a cake with a generous curd filling. It remains Strain the curd through a sieve, add THAT ARE STILL ENJOYED very popular in Lithuania and can be eggs, pour in both the regular and found at many bakeries to date. vanilla sugars, and mix well. Pour flour into the curd mass and knead into a Tinginys is one of the most simple and popular desserts Apple crumb pastries stiff dough. in Lithuania. It is made from store-bought biscuits, sweetened are made by shaping dough into thin condensed milk and cocoa powder; so many Lithuanians make it strips, which are then glued together by themselves at home. with apple jam and sprinkled with chopped nuts. Choux pastry biscuits (Plikyti sausainiai) From this dough, you should be able to make are baked in steam and resemble éclairs, except they have no Grietiniečiai are butter 30-35 small donuts. When making donuts, filling. Fresh out of the oven, they smell divine and are highly pastries filled with sweet curd. moisten your hands with water, press one big or addictive – you just cannot stop eating them! a few smaller cranberries into each donut, and roll them into small balls between your hands. Heat the oil up to 180 °C. Depending on the size WHERE CAN YOU GO IN VILNIUS TO SATISFY YOUR SWEET TOOTH? of the pot, deep-fry 4-6 donuts at a time so that they can fry freely without touching each other. Pilies Kepyklėlė (Pilies g. 19) – one of the oldest bakeries in the Old Town It takes about 5 minutes on average for small Liu Patty (Užupio g. 20) – even the pickiest will find something delicious here donuts to fry completely on both sides. Leave Sugamour (Vokiečių g. 11) – one of the most popular dessert places in the Old Town the fried donuts to cool on a paper towel so that Druska Miltai Vanduo (Geležinkelio g. 3) – pastries you won’t find anywhere else in Vilnius it can absorb the excess oil. Once the donuts are Ponių Laimė (Stiklių g. 14) – one of the oldest dessert spots in the city cool, sprinkle them with powdered sugar. Chaika (Totorių g. 7) – Vilnius’ largest selection of vegan desserts Beigelių Krautuvėlė (Pylimo g. 4) – kosher Litvak sweets

60 61 COFFEE BREAK

Photo by Ed Reeve Ed Reeve by Photo Dalia & Dexter: Some of the best coffee we’ve ever tried in Vilnius was at Crooked Nose & Coffee Stories. We would definitely go there on a perfect foodie day. For the best sweets in town, we would go to the vegan dessert bakery Chaika, which, by the way, also serves Crooked Nose coffee.

LUNCH!

Dalia: I would choose Vegafe, a superb vegetarian restaurant that serves very tasty vegetarian food all day long, but for lunch you can get specials and lunch deals.

Dexter: I’d go for Gaspar’s. It has a unique taste – a combination of Indian inspired flavours in a clean and contemporary setting. Moreover, I love meeting Gaspar himself, who studied and OUR PERFECT worked in London some years ago. DINNER We both appreciate Amandus, so we would go for dinner there. Why? We are partial to this place FOODIE DAY since chef Deivydas Praspaliauskas is a great friend of ours. He serves a Scandinavian inspired tasting According to Theatre Director Dalia Ibelhauptaite menu, which is like seeing and tasting a super food and Actor & Director Dexter Fletcher show with unexpected combinations of flavours.

Dalia: If I were to have my perfect foodie day alone, START THE DAY I would choose Delta Mityba, as they offer Japane- se and Korean inspired cuisine – interpretations of Dalia: My perfect foodie day would start with bre- ramen, pho and nabe soups, the most fantastic bao, akfast at Shakespeare Hotel, a great place for a very and dumplings. By the way, they make their own tasty breakfast. They serve wonderful pastries, kimchi and have a buzzing, artsy, underground and different styles of eggs, traditional Lithuanian cool Berlin feel to their space. breakfast dishes, and really good coffee in a relaxed setting. Dexter: Alone I would go for Džiaugsmas – it’s been named the best restaurant in Lithuania for the Dexter: For the last 20 years, my favourite place to second consecutive year, and it’s been my favourite start the day has been Pilies Kepyklėlė; they make from the very beginning. They have a great inno- the most wonderful crepes with sweet and savoury vative menu based on the best quality Lithuanian fillings. So, that would definitely be my first stop. produce, and possibly the best meat in town.

62 63 A GUIDE WHY ARE THESE DRINKS INTERESTING?

Beer – because brewers still TO LOCAL follow many ancient traditions and Lithuanian beer is often lauded as one of the most au- thentic beers in Europe.

Mead – one of Lithuania’s oldest alcoholic drink is made from honey and was developed BEVERAGES as a result of wild beekeeping. Berry and fruit wines – were only commercially available staring in 1926, and already started winning international awards by 1938.

Acorn coffee– because it doesn’t contain caffeine yet is full of vitamins that are beneficial to the brain and has body-strengthening properties that purify the blood, eliminate toxins, and improve digestion.

Herbal tea – a great opportunity to taste a bit of No introduction to local gastronomy would be complete without Lithuania’s nature in a teacup tasting local drinks. It’s no secret that Lithuanians are proud of while improving your health their brewing traditions, and one of the oldest drinks in the coun- with herbs that are also used in try is mead. Lithuanian wines are also unique since they are made folk medicine. from berries and fruits, not grapes. When it comes to non-alcoholic drinks, gira is a typical Lithuanian Gira – a historical drink beverage made of fermented bread, and the herbal teas gathered made from rye bread (or from from meadows across Lithuania help soothe both the body and fruits, berries and caraway soul. A more unique flavour can be found in the local coffee made seeds), yeast, and sugar that from the acorns of oak trees. Lithuanians consumed on a daily basis.

64 65 LOVE BAR DISTILERIJA

KING&MOUSE

Fancy cocktails can also be found at Mililitrai and Distilerija, or if you go deeper MILILITRAI into the Old Town you will find Apoteka, Love Bar and Young’s Club. Gin connoisseurs gather at TAP WATER? Sanatorija, rum aficionados WHERE SHOULD can be found at Rhum YES, PLEASE! Room, bubble-lovers flock to Champagneria, and beer fans tend to choose One of Lithuania’s most beloved treasures is YOU GO IN VILNIUS Gringo Pub. All are located its deep well water, which is of such excellent on Vilniaus Street. True quality that people in Vilnius can drink it whisky connoisseurs should straight from the tap. FOR AN APERITIF? definitely go toKing & Mouse (Trakų g.), and if you’re What makes it special? looking for mescal and Science has long proven that groundwater tequila, check out Spiritus is protected from external chemical and BARS (Aušros Vartų g.). microbiological contamination by minerals Most of the city’s bars are located either on that are beneficial for the human body. or around Vilniaus or Islandijos streets. For Everyone living in the city has access to GRINGO PUB something gourmet, head to Alchemikas, where safe, clean, high-quality drinking water. Lithuania’s 2019 bartending champions will mix So, drink up! your cocktail.

66 67 MY PERFECT ATELIER FOODIE DAY According to Food Blogger Dervynas @urte_dervynas BEERHOUSES On the same street as Queensberry, Špunka offers START THE DAY many different kinds of Lithuanian beer. An even I like to start my mornings off with a bike more extensive menu is offered atAlaus Biblioteka. ride to Halės Market where I buy fresh fruit, In addition to its selection of beers, Stiklių Aludė berries, vegetables, bread, cheese, herring, has many different local dishes. Another place with ALAUS BIBLIOTEKA RHUM ROOM ham, and on Saturdays I treat myself to an extensive food menu and beer list is Beerhouse. brunch. By the way, Young’s Club at Halės Market is a great spot to hang out at in the evenings. LOCATIONS: COFFEE BREAK Alchemikas (Islandijos g. 1) My go-to coffee spot isTaste Map on WINE BARS Sanatorija (Vilniaus g. 22) Čiurlionis Street (after that I might take a If you really care about what wine you’re drinking, Distilerija (Vilniaus g. 28) walk in the nearby Vingis Park), but another or if you want to learn more about it, come to Somm, Gringo pub (Vilniaus g. 31) good option is Huracán Coffee. Both places home to six sommeliers who can offer their advice Mililitrai (Vilniaus g. 33) serve perfeclyt roasted coffee. and help you pair it with an appetiser. In addition, Champagneria (Vilniaus g. 35) LUNCH! Somm has a collection of more than 500 bottles of Rhum Room (Vilniaus g. 39) I would definitely recommend the seafood at wine. King & Mouse (Trakų g. 2) Season, the bao at Ping Pong and Peri Peri’s Alaus biblioteka (Trakų g. 4) chicken at Downtown Food Hall. For wine tastings, locals and tourists also love Apoteka (Visų Šventųjų g. 5) SWEETS Burbulio Vyninė, which has a homey feeling and Spiritus (Aušros Vartų g. 4) When it comes to treating myself to local an excellent wine list; In Vino for its bohemian InVino (Aušros Vartų g. 7) sweets, I’m a big fan of Pilies Kepyklėlė. atmosphere, friendly staff and delicious snacks; and California Tapas & Wine (Subačiaus g. 2) DINNER California Tapas & Wine for its quality service and Queensberry (Didžioji g. 18) Option I – I would go to Sofa de Pancho, which extensive drinks menu. Špunka (Užupio g. 9 and serves exceptionally high-quality Mexican Savičiaus g. 9) food. After eating, I would drop by the nearby For an even more luxurious experience, Atelier is a Beerhouse (Vokiečių g. 24) Apoteka, one of the best cocktails bars in wine boutique and tasting bar located in the Grand Somm (Pylimo g. 21) Vilnius, which feels like a vintage New York Hotel Kempinski Vilnius. Love Bar (Pylimo g. 59) Apothecary. Young’s Club (Pylimo g. 58) Option II – If I were craving something SOMM Meanwhile, the largest selection of Lithuanian Atelier (Universiteto g. 14) more Lithuanian with local ingredients, I wines is at Queensberry, not far from Vilnius Town Stiklių Aludė (Gaono g. 7) would go to Džiaugsmas, followed by the bar (Rūdninkų g. 18) Hall. Burbulio vyninė Alchemikas for a digestif.

68 69 Life in modern times According to At the end of CHRISTMAS EVE old traditions, the Christmas is rapidly changing, WHAT DO It used to be that families sat down at the table people sit down Eve meal, there is so it’s no surprise on Christmas Eve with the rising of the evening for Christmas no rush to clear that culinary star, but these days, many people have stopped Eve dinner only the table. Many traditions are no adhering to this tradition. Most families still after going to the believe that leftover sauna, or at least food ends up being longer the same as begin their Christmas Eve dinner by breaking the LITHUANIANS after a bath – i.e. eaten by the spirits they were 100 or so kalėdaitis (a wafer baked from flour and water in a special form and blessed at church). The kalėdaitis cleansing both of visiting dead years ago. However, is considered a symbol of a family’s unity, which is their souls an relatives through- there are some why it must be shared with everyone before any of their bodies. out the night. holiday traditions EAT FOR THE the other dishes can be eaten. that have lived on Oatmeal or cranberry jelly – a ritual meal since Making the food to serve on Christmas Eve is a ancient times from generation to serious task for any host. Why? The traditional generation. HOLIDAYS? Christmas Eve feast consists of twelve separate Different fish dishes – always at least one type dishes, each of which should be made without any of herring with added extras meat or dairy products: Pastries with dried mushrooms and/or EASTER Kūčiukai poppy seeds Easter eggs are One of the most important Easter traditions that lives not cracked on Poppy milk Dishes with mushrooms or mushrooms on to this day is the act of decorating eggs. This is very the table or with with added extras much the main custom, as eggs are the first to be eaten Beet salad (beets have always been one of a utensil, but are the most popular ingredients) Yeast dough cake (with poppy seed filling) at the Easter table. rather cracked by A traditional Lithuanian table for Easter serves: hitting one egg Salt, bread, and horseradish against another. They are a symbol CHRISTMAS Broth with pastries of plenty, goodness, Dairy dishes, such as cheese and fertility. DAY Pork dishes: sausages, rolled and The table on Christmas pressed shanks, meat jelly Day is filled with food that is much heartier than the Meatloaf: minced meat seasoned with evening before. Pigs used to be herbs, vegetables, and fruit butchered and served with a Easter cake (Velykų boba) – tall, puffed, wreath placed on their heads. colourfully decorated and pretty like a Boba Today you would rarely see something like that, except in Wheat flour pastries and/or šakotis the countryside. Nevertheless, no table on 25 December is People used to complete without meat. prepare for their Easter feasts six People serve stewed meat, months in advance: buns with meat fillings, ham, animals were To this day, shanks, and meat jelly. To this butchered, meat most Lithuanians day, the authentic Christmas salted and smoked, decorate their feast also includes intricate cheese dried, Easter tables herring dishes, stuffed fish, vegetables pickled, with garlands of and sweets (such as saldi and eggs decorated. greenery. boba).

70 71 BREAD For Lithuanians living abroad, rye black bread is one of the clearest symbols representing 1O FOODS their homeland. It’s one of the oldest foods in our country and historically speaking, nothing else has been revered as much as this hearty bread. Lithuanian bread is eaten daily with all THAT REPRESENT sorts of different meals, especially soups. VILNIUS

Lithuania’s gastronomic culture is curious and collaborative, which mean we’ve adapted all sorts of flavours from neighbouring countries and used them to improve our own. Some of these recipes came to Lithuania in the GIRA 14th and 15th centuries from the The Chinese have their world-famous kombucha and Tatars, Karaites and Jews who settled in the Lithuanians drink gira, a beverage also made through the country. Influences also came from the Byzantine, process of fermentation. This drink has existed for centuries in the territory of Eastern Europe inhabited by Baltic tribes. Greek, and Ottoman empires, as well as Italian, To this day, it is among the most refreshing traditional drinks in Lithuania, German, and French culinary traditions. Let us favoured by young and old alike. Three main types of gira are associated present ten foods that best represent Vilnius. with Lithuania’s gastronomic history: malt gira (also a type of beer), bread gira, and fruit gira. For example, a recipe for an apple or pear version of this drink, called Lithuanian gira, has existed since 1594.

ŠALTIBARŠČIAI WHERE TO TASTE FOODS THAT REPRESENT VILNIUS: Senoji trobelė (Naugarduko g. 36) Stikliai Tavern (Gaono g. 7) (COLD BEET SOUP) Price of dinner: €€ Price of dinner: €€€ Anyone who dives into the tasty world of Lithuanian cuisine knows about this pink soup. It’s hard not to! However, sometimes people are Etno Dvaras (Aušros Vartų g. 2) Medininkai (Aušros Vartų g. 8) wary of trying it because of the intense colour. The basis for this soup Price of dinner: € Price of dinner: €€ is beets with kefir, which mix together to create the vivid pink colour. A hardboiled egg, cucumbers, dill, and green onions are also added to Leičiai (Stiklių g. 4) Šnekutis (Šv. Mikalojaus g. 15) the dish. Most importantly, this soup is eaten cold, which is why it is Price of dinner: €€ Price of dinner: € traditionally a summer staple.

72 73 CEPELINAI If you were to ask a local what traditional Lithuanian dish is the most popular, almost everyone would say cepelinai. These zeppelin-shaped grated and stuffed potato dumplings are such an integral part of Lithuania’s cuisine that no one dares argue the extent to which it belongs to our culinary heritage. Nevertheless, cepelinai were first made here just a little more than a century ago. Both their idea and the inspiration for their shape came from Germany. ŠAKOTIS (BAUMKUCHEN) Culinary specialists believe that this dessert came to Lithuanian from Germany in the early 19th century. This dessert’s authentic recipe and form have survived thanks to local homemakers. The same can’t be said for Germany, where it has been lost – thankfully it’s thriving in Lithuania. This dessert requires around 30–50 eggs and 1 kg of flour. In selecting a šakotis, keep in mind that the more sharp points the cake has, the more valuable it is, and the more respected its baker. BAGELS If we were to search for a dish from our region that is available worldwide, no doubt it would be bagels. Similar baked goods (related to bagels) were mentioned as far back as 1394 in Lithuania. The original bagels appeared and became popular among Jews in Lithuania and Poland, in time becoming an attribute of fairs and a common choice for gifts. ŠIMTALAPIS ZRAZAI KOLDŪNAI Melt-in-your-mouth delicious, this sweet This meat dish is still popular in came to us from the Tatars and has been Lithuania and Poland. We can (DUMPLINGS) known for nearly 600 years. The sheets of read about them in nearly all cook Dishes characterised by thin sheets of dough, leaves, or dough for a šimtalapis have to be paper- books from the 17th to 19th centuries. hollowed-out vegetables with various fillings are common thin, nearly transparent. Because of the There are different versions of in southern cuisine, particularly in the regions from China necessity for the highest quality products, zrazai, but the Lithuanian ones are KIBINAI in the east, to Northern Africa and Spain in the west. In the complicated process (the dough is special. They are made by rolling This is a dish that came to us from another ethnic Europe, this dish is best known in the Mediterranean often kneaded by two people), and the meat (usually beef) with a filling. minority in Lithuania – the Karaites. Kibinai are region. No one knows when koldūnai became popular in time needed to make They are eaten with the crescent-shaped yeast pastries with a chopped mutton our country. However, we can be sure that this happened it (around five hours), same broth in which they or beef filling that are baked in an oven. Today, these a long time ago. No doubt, some of these recipes came šimtalapis is usually were boiled and with pastries can be made with a vegetable, cheese, or poultry to Lithuania in the 14th and 15th centuries from southern a dessert reserved for potatoes or other mashed filling. To accompany them, a hot natural broth can be settlers – Tatars and Karaites. special occasions. vegetables. served, or tea, bread gira, or even a Karaite bitter.

74 75 If not in Israel, then in Vilnius, where Jews have lived for centuries, you should LITVAK taste this nation’s rich culinary heritage – a cuisine that has already become an integral part of Lithuania’s DISHES – gastronomy. A TASTE OF

Carrot and orange peel VILNIUS imberlach sweets.

Lithuanians very much enjoy Litvak recipes, WHERE IN VILNIUS CAN YOU particularly stuffed fish called gefilte fish. Also popular are traditional TRY REAL JEWISH FOOD? Litvak sweets, such as teiglach, carrot and orange Beigelių krautuvėlė (The Little Bagel Shop) only has five tables peel imberlach, and bagels. and their day usually starts with baking bagels (the ones with lox are most popular), pastries (cinnamon buns are the first to sell These foods and various out), imberlach, teiglach and other sweets. And every Friday at others, still made using noon kosher challah is sold fresh from the oven. authentic recipes, can be tasted in Vilnius to this day, This is the only place in Vilnius that serves kosher food and is except on Saturdays, the open to the public. Jewish or not, anyone who wants to taste Jewish Sabbath. Jews are authentic Jewish cuisine can visit Beigelių krautuvėlė. The forbidden from doing any experienced chef Riva Portnaja makes everything on site. kind of work from sunset Lithuania has a long and colourful history, which sometimes makes tracing the origin of on Friday until Saturday To ensure that all the food adheres to the kosher standards, a some popular dishes mastered by local chefs a little difficult. Russians, Poles, Belarusians, evening, which is why no mashgiach appointed by Rabbi Šolom Ber Krinsky of the Choral Tatars and Karaites (who settled here in the period of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania) have Jewish dishes are prepared Synagogue of Vilnius supervises the baking and cooking process all left their mark on Lithuania’s cuisine. However, Lithuania’s Jews (known as Litvaks) on the Sabbath. daily. have had a particularly significant impact on the country’s culinary heritage.

76 77 Recipe LITVAK BAGELS

1 kg flour • 1/2 cup oil • 1/2 cup water • 25 g yeast • Pinch of salt • 1 tsp. sugar • Egg white

PREPARATION: mix the yeast with sugar and put in a warm place until it rises. Combine the flour, salt and warm water, adding in the yeast and oil. Knead everything together and let the dough rise. Form fist-sized bagels from the dough, making a hole in the middle.

A mashgiach is a religious Jew who, from the first minute to the Let them rise for 30 minutes. Before baking, boil the last, is involved in all the work taking place in Beigelių krautuvėlė’s bagels for several minutes in boiling water, brush kitchen: he turns on the oven, breaks the challah, sifts the flour, with the egg white and add your favourite looks over the fresh herbs for the salads, checks whether the toppings: poppy seeds, raisins, sesame seeds, products used are in line with kosher requirements, and or chopped nuts. Bake in an oven at 200° for cracks the eggs to ensure that there is no blood in them. 25–30 minutes.

However, you should not expect an elaborate multi-course lunch here – the tiny kitchen staffed by just five people is too small for that. Still, it is definitely worth a visit to taste the shakshuka, soups, salads, bagels and cakes they serve.

In addition, Beigelių krautuvėlė is located on the premises of the Lithuanian Jewish (Litvak) Community’s headquarters, where various cultural events and gatherings take place all the time. On Jewish holidays, special non-menu items are offered. For example, during Hanukkah, Riva makes special doughnuts (sufganiyah) as well as latkes (potato pancakes) with applesauce. During Hanukkah, Riva makes special doughnuts (sufganiyah) as well as latkes Location: Opening hours: Average price: (potato pancakes) Pylimo g. I-IV 10:00-19:00, V 10:00-16:00, 3 Eur with applesauce 4 VII 10:00-18:00 per item

78 79 BURGER FEST VILNIUS BEER FESTIVAL EVENTS July November 2020 An annual festival vafest.lt celebrating gourmet Vilnius burgers, hops, music, and The largest independent beer fest having fun together. in Lithuania, bringing together different brewers and craft beer Keywords: hand-made enthusiasts. VYNO DIENOS burgers, gourmet burgers, craft beer, music, Keywords: international (WINE DAYS) entertainment, for the festivals, more than 200 types whole family, food trucks, of beer, craft beer enthusiasts, VILNIUS May festive mood. food trucks, food and drink COFFEE vynodienos.lt combinations, tastings, entertainment, barbers. FESTIVAL The first and largest wine exhibition in the Baltics, where wines from OPEN February around the world are presented and KITCHEN vilniuscoffeefestival.lt tasted. VILNIUS All summer This annual event Keywords: wine tasting, foreign openkitchen.lt focuses exclusively on the WHISKY winemakers, Lithuanian wine and exceptionally aromatic and mead makers, gourmet products, wine FESTIVAL Every Friday and Saturday tasty black drink that is tours, educational programme, during the warm summer LITHUANIAN coffee. discussions, stories, presentations of April months Tymas Square international vineyards. GASTRONOMY vilniuswhiskyfestival.lt becomes packed full of Keywords: coffee restaurant stalls and food making and latte art OYSTER WEEK The largest annual trucks. championship, coffee whisky festival in the FESTIVAL November tasting championship, Baltics grows even larger Keywords: new flavours, coffee making technique in scale every year. world cuisine, music, November One week each year when the presentations, coffee and child-friendly, dogs, friends, austriufestivalis.lt country’s best restaurants offer dessert tasting, VEGFEST Keywords: more new ideas, summer, Vilnius a special menu at a good price, presentation about coffee, than 300 types of Old Town, open-air. An annual celebration for inviting people to taste their movies about coffee, June whisky, whisky tastings, seafood lovers and curious new ideas. meetings with coffee makers from whisky foodies who have never tasted The largest plant-based food roasters. distilleries around the these molluscs before – taking festival in Lithuania. Keywords: the best world, beer matured in place at different bars and restaurants, special menu, whisky barrels, whisky restaurants around the country. Keywords: vegan and vegan- affordable price, fresh tastes, and cheese tasting, friendly businesses, food tasting, gastronomic experiences, whisky and meat tasting, Keywords: oysters, dishes organic goods, natural cosmetics, festive mood, new ice cream with whisky, with oysters, new flavour books on healthy lifestyles and plant- acquaintances, new speakeasy bar. combinations, new types of based diets, kitchenware, ethically- favourite places. oysters, festive mood, gourmet made goods, lectures, food making experiences, tens of thousands lessons, movie screenings. of oysters.

80 81 You probably know the feeling of visiting a country and wanting DELICIOUS to bring a little piece of it back home with you. Without a doubt, Lithuania’s nature and the SOUVENIRS goods that are derived from it are among the best souvenirs to bring back from Vilnius. FROM VILNIUS

BREAD MEAD ŠAKOTIS Over the course of a year One of the world’s oldest alcoho- This many-branched dessert Lithuanians bake and eat the most lic drinks, Lithuania has made made from many eggs can keep rye bread in the world, and this mead its own over the centuries. for a long time without losing its food product is the most popular The Stakliškių mead distillery shape or flavour. By the way, no gift to bring to Lithuanians living still makes this drink according wedding in Lithuania can be held abroad. to old recipes. without this dessert.

HERBAL TEA Teas made from herbs that grow wild in Lithuania’s national parks not only taste unique, but also have healing powers. Also available are teas made from matured herbs.

ACORN COFFEE CHEESE Acorns don’t contain any caf- Lithuania is one of only a few BERRY WINE feine, yet they are full of proteins, nations that makes cheese from Lithuanian wines – made from vitamins and minerals that have sweet white curd. Also, there are blackberry, lingonberry, black all sorts of health benefits. They cheeses that have been baked currant, chokeberry or other fruit can help strengthen the body, and seasoned with caraway. For or berries – are exceptional, and purify the blood, remove toxins, something more unique, try some make for the perfect gift for any and more. apple cheese. wine lover. HONEY The sweetest Where in Vilnius can you buy edible souvenirs? souvenir you can find Halės Market (Pylimo g. 58), Uptown Bazaar (Kauno g. 16), in Lithuania. For centuries, Benedikto Market (Ukmergės g. 259A), Senamiesčio Krautuvėlė honey was used in place of sugar (Literatų g. 5), Tymo Market (Thursdays until 15:00, junction of and to this day it is still a healthy alternative sweetener. Aukštaičių g. and Maironio g.).

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APPETISING VILNIUS Culinary guide