APPETISING VILNIUS These days, few things represent a is growing every year, when it comes to nation as well as its food. eating out, tourist traps are few and far between. In fact, most places are rather Since the times of the Grand Duke oriented towards quality and aim to Gediminas in the 14th century, Vilnius has attract the same customers again and been famous as a capital open to people again. And of course, the city’s collective of all nationalities and religions, and of openness to global cuisine has made for a course, their cultures and cuisines. From thriving and dynamic restaurant scene. Karaite kibinai and Jewish bagels, to Italian lazankos and German baumkuchen With the help of this guide you’ll discover – many traditions have found their place places in Vilnius where you can eat like in our country’s gastronomy without a Duke in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, overwhelming the national cuisine. a member of a Jewish merchant family, a modern gourmand, someone living in the Lithuanian cuisine is curious, open to Soviet era, a descendant of the Karaites, the world, and has been historically very and so much more. Turn the page and advanced. For example, the dishes served SKANAUS! at the Vilnius residence of King Sigismund II Augustus in the 16th century included ingredients like melons, parsnips, figs, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and more. Most of these ingredients didn’t grow locally or Skanaus! anywhere even close to Lithuania. Bon appétit! Smacznego! The nobility of Vilnius brought luxurious Enjoy your meal! wines and various food products to their Guten Appetit! ןובאיתב manors, and invited foreign chefs to apply their culinary knowledge to local products Смачна есьці! and traditions. This helped formed what Приятного аппетита! are now local flavours. 慢慢吃！ Head isu! Jätku leiba! There was a period after WWII when the Hyvää ruokahalua! country’s gastronomy was stagnant and いただきます had to adapt to the political situation of ¡Buen apetito! the time. However, these days, Lithuanian Labu apetiti! cuisine is being born anew by blending Smaklig måltid! APPETISING ancestral traditions, local products and Смачного! VILNIUS Culinary contemporary needs. Afiyet olsun! guide Although the number of tourists in Vilnius 2 3 CONTENT 08 Expats Tasting Vilnius 14 Overview: Historical Cuisine 20 Overview: Modern Food Halls and Marketplaces 26 Overview: Coffee Crawl 32 Spoiled for Choice: Brunch in Vilnius 38 Spoiled for Choice: Dinner in Vilnius 50 Spoiled for Choice: Vegetarian Restaurants in Vilnius 54 Lunch on a Budget 56 Overview: Nostalgic Pastries 61 Recipe: Curd Donuts 62 Our Perfect Foodie Day in Town 64 Overview: Bars in Vilnius 70 What do Lithuanians Eat for the holidays? 72 10 Foods that Represent Vilnius 76 Litvak Dishes: A Taste of Vilnius 79 Recipe: Litvak Bagels 80 Culinary Events in Vilnius 82 Delicious Souvenirs from Vilnius Cover photo by Robertas Daskevičius (i4u.lt) Editor in Chief: Inga Norke Texts: Inga Norke Proofreading: Bradley Castelli Design: Tomas Mozūra Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of this publication. Photos by: Andrej Vasilenko, Ed Reeve, Eglė Juzumienė, Fotopastelė, The creators cannot, however, accept responsibility for errors or Gabrielius Jauniškis, Ignas Vincerževskis, Indrė Kazėnaitė, Monika omissions, but where such errors or omissions are brought to our Krilavičienė, Monika Rukaitė, Reda Mickevičiūtė, Robertas Daskevičius, attention, future publications will be amended accordingly. Tomas Bajorinas, Toma Kaliukevičiūtė, Tomas Preikša, Vilma Deveikytė, The publication reflects the situation as of September 2019. Vincas Alesius, and Šarūnė Zurba. © Publisher: Public Institution Go Vilnius A big thank you to all the places mentioned www.govilnius.lt in this guide for sharing their moments. 4 5 6 7 Ireland A must gastro ERICA JENNINGS experience while Singer-Songwriter, named Lithuania’s Singer of the Year in 2017 in Vilnius: If you’re making a Living in Vilnius for 23 years long evening of it, Sweet Root is a good option because it like how much the food scene has Sue’s Indian Raja is the best uses only local and evolved over the past two decades. Indian you’ll find in the Baltics and I seasonal products, It’s incredible when we consider how Poland. No doubt. It’s been around and it’s the first res- much has changed. Back then there for a long time and never once lost taurant in Lithuania were a precious few places where it’s high standards. to have a menu one could eat well, literally counting dictated entirely by them on one hand in the entire Bistro 18 has European cuisine EXPATS the local nature and country...and now we are inundated that includes scrumptious soups, weather conditions. with fantastic culinary options, with and is also a great place to have Expect a five-course both established restaurants and new coffee and chat. The private wine dinner along with delights opening regularly. Lithuania room has a lovely ambiance, too. something special really has a wonderful selection to from the Chef, wine choose from now, and price wise you Rise is an incredible Japanese pairing and stories can find something that suits any restaurant that is unpretentious TASTING about the food being budget. and amazingly affordable, and served, too. Great the food is always out of this service, ambience, Erica’s favourite food and coffee world. and the space is places in town: lovely, too - it’s in Gaspar’s is exceptional. Gaspar RoseHip is a new vegan Užupis, a district the owner is always surprising restaurant and I have to commend that you should defi- guests with mouth-watering dishes, them on being pioneers here in nitely visit while in and the presentation and warmth of creating tasty, flavourful and VILNIUS Vilnius. the place is amazing. original vegan dishes. 8 9 A must gastro MAX BRATSUN experience while Web Designer and Entrepreneur in Vilnius: Living in Vilnius for 13 years Visit the fish res- taurant Šturmų Švyturys; it deserves he best thing about the gastro Max’s favourite food and the highest marks by Tscene in Vilnius is that it’s coffee places in town: all means, especially been ever-changing and growing Backstage Cafe is the absolute when they have sea- since the introduction of the Euro. best coffee spot in Vilnius sonal smelt dishes Competition grows together with for great roasted coffee and available. It’s the purchasing power, and it stimulates delicious brunches. only restaurant in both restaurants and fast food stalls the country serving to feature more diverse dishes and to The Italian restaurant fresh Lithuanian fish improve the overall dining experience Le Travi serves fantastic and the menu chan- for customers. Personally, I’m a big fan homemade pasta and one-of- ges daily depending of small Italian places and the new food a-kind sparkling wine in a cosy on what they are able Ethiopia courts popping up around the city. and welcoming environment. to catch. One cannot miss this place when in Vilnius. Both the service and the food are spectacular and make for an unfor- gettable dining experience. A must gastro ESKEDAR experience while Entrepreneur, Founder and Manager of Eskedar Coffee in Vilnius: Living in Vilnius for 12 years Kaziukas Fair is a place where I’ve experienced would define Vilnius as a miniature Open Kitchen: The idea is to real Lithuanian melting pot of cultures. You just gather the city’s best food trucks in I cuisine. Also, Open need to push the tiny doors of mini one spot every Friday throughout Belarus Kitchen is one of the restaurants in the Old Town, Užupis the summer. It takes place right in contemporary food and various gastro spaces such as the heart of Vilnius Old Town close experiences you Uptown Bazaar, Open Kitchen etc. to the riverbank of the Vilnele. can have if you’re around in summer. Eskedar’s favourite food and The Lebanese restaurant Leyla If you want to coffee places in town: and Chaika Cafe are must-visits for experience a culture Say Cheese bistro: I order a combo all vegetarians. within a culture, go of Lithuanian cold beetroot soup to Belmontas. It’s with goat cheese served with grilled Baziliskas on Raugyklos Street a restaurant in the potatoes, and I top it off with a is great for traditional craft middle of a forest perfect cup of Ethiopian coffee. beer tasting. It’s small, cosy and that serves barbecue authentic. and a set of six Rūdninkų knygynas: I love the Lithuanian beers vibe and the interior, which is Also, there are many more hidden in one serving. You beyond a coffee shop. Jazz music gems on the streets of Savičiaus, could also try all the takes you back and forth from Vilnius, Vokiečių, Pilies, and the other Lithuanian Vilnius to Paris, or Vilnius to New district of Užupis. For an industrial dishes at this place. York. set-up, head to Backstage Cafe. 10 11 GASPAR FERNANDES Chef and Owner of Gaspar’s Restaurant A must gastro Living in Vilnius for 5 years experience while in Vilnius: For visitors from like the fact that the food Gaspar’s favourite food and coffee abroad I would say culture here has changed so places in town: I don’t get caught up fast and so much in the last five Crooked Nose & Coffee Stories for at the restaurants years. It’s unbelievable to see coffee enthusiasts. that are in the main so many new places, concepts, touristic places, but experiences etc. and I like that I The local specialty coffee do a little research happen to be a part of this too – it bar BREW. on where to eat good allows me to contribute my part local food, or for that and to present Vilnius as a foodie The Mexican-inspired restaurant matter, you could destination that’s just as good as Sofa de Pancho.