BC Wreck Trek
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Canada’s BCText by Barb Roy. Photos byWreck Trek Barb Roy and Ron Akeson — Accessible Wrecks in British Columbia 10 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO feature BC Wreck Trek Large male wolf-eel with female found on remains of the Themis wreck out of Port Hardy, northeastern Vancouver Island, British Columbia PREVIOUS PAGE: Rust drips from the main tower of the Cape Breton in Nanaimo, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada A reluctant winter clung to an “Five minutes out!” announced our tom to John’s wit over the years. For early March morning while dive guide, John de Boeck, owner of someone who has been offering dive Browning Pass Hideaway on northern excursions since 1981, he knows the area flakes of snow silently fell on Vancouver Island. “Below rests the skel- eerily well. eight fully suited divers as our eton of the SS Themis wreck. Watch Slipping beneath the surface through open-skiff slowly motored your depth and especially watch your a forest of tall gently swaying kelp fronds across glassy-calm water to the bottom time because the currents really proved to be as magnificent as the move around Croker Rock. While div- topside terrain. Life and color was every- first dive site. No one spoke a ing here, it’s possible you might see the where. Black rockfish hovered mid-wa- word. ship’s bathtub, maybe the boilers, a few ter, not in the least bit afraid of us. I am octos and watch out for immense wolf- sure if the light was brighter, the ship’s I couldn’t help but notice the beauty eels!” remains would have been in full view of nature all around. Even through a I rubbed my cold hands together and 60ft (18m) below—the visibility was that light veil of surface fog, dark evergreens blew some warm air on them before good. towered atop rocky shorelines of nearby donning drygloves and attaching them My husband, Wayne, wasted no time islands, now bathed in the soft hues of to my drysuit. As we prepared to enter in locating his first wolf-eel. A few needle dawn. Perched high above us in a tree, the chilly water, John added the gener- white teeth oddly protruded through an eagle squawked with another as we al site details and said, “Don’t worry, by huge rubbery lips. Muppets always passed, followed by the quiet gurgle of now the wolf-eels have already eaten come to mind when I see these comical an otter entering the water. their breakfast…” Yes, I’ve grown accus- characters up close. All around its den Diver examines soft corals on the wreck of the Themis, off Vancouver Island, British Columbia 11 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Photography is always colorful on Themis wreck in Port Hardy area (left); John de Boeck gives briefing before feature dive on Themis wreck (lower left) BC Wreck Trek For visiting divers cular direction, we will start at the south- One of the things I like best about diving ern end of Vancouver Island, traveling in the Pacific Northwest is the diversity of north up the island and across to the shipwrecks British Columbia has to offer. Sunshine Coast, then back to Mainland There are plenty of natural wrecks all Vancouver along the coast. over coastal BC and sites purposely cre- ated by the placement of retired military Vancouver Island ships to attract divers. Most are easily G.B. Church. Near the town of Sidney, accessible and host an assortment of and within minutes from Victoria (BC’s marine residents. capital city), the G.B. Church sits upright The Artificial Reef Society of British in 50 to 90ft (15 to 27m) of water off Port- Columbia (ARSBC—www.artificialreef. land Island in Princess Margaret Marine bc.ca), a not-for-profit group, has Park. At 175ft (53m) in length, this freight- scuttled eight over the past 25 years. er was the first ARSBC project with a Although most exceed 300ft (91m) in successful sinking in 1991. Over the years, length, all are within reasonable depths marine life wasted no time in occupying to suit any level of diving skill, including the ship’s deck, hull and structures, which technical divers. are now thick with encrusting tubeworms, To facilitate diving in this unique region nudibranchs, anemones and other inver- for potential visiting divers, I have com- tebrate life. Small fish thrive around the piled a list of some of the more colorful wreck, often using it like a nursery. and interesting wrecks. Working in a cir- “I like diving on the ARSBC’s wrecks appetite for seafood, a lot like graph on the wreck was old fishing nets Wayne… hanging and draped over the stern of After the wolf-eel had ven- the vessel. They had been there for so tured out to greet several of us, long and were so heavy with collected we continued to circumnavi- invertebrate life, they no longer moved gate the hull, finding a differ- much in the current. ent assortment of critters living Retreating to a more sheltered part on every protruding piece of of the wreck, we encountered two sets wreckage. Puget Sound king of coal-black eyeballs suddenly peering crabs, clusters of gray colored out at us. Was it another wolf-eel, no… sponge, anemones, pink and Then two huge brown masses darted by red soft corals and multitudes us from behind. Whoa! Turned out the of small fish adorned our path two sets of eyes belonged to two small at every turn. It was clear from harbor seals, which were hiding from two the amount of life, the cold very large sea lions. John later explained nutrient-rich water circulating the sea lions like to harass harbor seals as through this area was support- a form of play. Makes me wonder if the ing a vibrant ecosystem, similar orcas like to play with the sea lions too? were piles of crumbled scallop, urchin to other dive locations in BC. Overall, this enchanting site was as fun to and crab shells. This guy indeed had an One of my favorite scenes to photo- explore as it was to photograph. Nudibranch on wreck of the G.B. Church near Sidney, Vancouver Island 12 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO feature BC Wreck Trek Where the wild things are. Scallops on G.B. Church wreck near Sidney, Vancouver Island Port Hardy to learn about Vancouver Island local history,” com- mented visiting diver Degan Walters from Seattle, Washington. Campbell “And it’s a way to do River something I love. But I still like to see and photograph underwater life, so although I’m Strait of Georgia Howe wreck certified, I don’t spend a lot of Sound time deep inside the wrecks. Sechelt “One of my favorite experiences was when my dad and I dove the G.B. Church, Nanaimo which was my first time diving a wreck and VANCOUVER my first time diving with my dad! We entered the bridge and it was entirely covered with plumose Ucluelet Chemainus What weird and wonderful things await you when you dive The Florida O G R anemones. I also saw an octopus in its den and lingcod Keys & Key West? With the only living coral reef in North America A L Y E K everywhere.” Barkley and thousands of different species of marine life, everything you Sound can imagine. fla-keys.com/diving A Sidney AD OR HMCS Mackenzie. The retired HMCS Mackenzie was scut- M LA IS tled in 1995 off Gooch Island in 100ft (30m) of water. Divers VICTORIA ON K ATH EY W MAR can reach the wreck as shallow as 30ft (9m) or venture into EST S BIG PINE KEY & THE LOWER KEY one of the many large access holes cut into the vessel’s hull and decks (as with all the ARSBC projects). Special note: The Map of Vancouver Island with location of some of the accessible wrecks along the coast 13 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Leather seastar on Mackenzie wreck near Sidney, Vancouver Island; Dive community of Chemainus prepares feature to sink 737 plane in 2006 (below) BC Wreck Trek and other sites in the local area nity of Chemainus in 60 to 100ft throughout the year. (18 to 30m) of water. Dubbed the Xihuw Reef (xihuw meaning Xihuw Boeing 737. The Boeing red sea urchin, pronounced key’ 737-200 airframe was scuttled in quot) by local Hul’qumi’num First 2006 not far from the commu- Nations, the indigenous people of Mackenzie was used in an epi- was impressive, making you ic life, it was easy to see all the sode of the television series, feel way smaller in comparison. features of the ship, including The X-Files, too! the opportunity to peek inside Rockfish Divers, a new dive AP: What kind of life did you and see the rooms. There was shop and charter operator see on the wrecks? a desk with a chair still sitting in in Victoria, has some great front of it. dive videos (courtesy of Alisa TK: On both, there was tons of Preston) and images of both life, yet each seemed to have AP: What about the G.B.