June 2017 SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS and EDUCATING the HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY

June 2017 SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY

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Horo Times ad Adj Arm Benches 6-17.indd 1 5/3/2017 3:27:56 PM IN THIS VOLUME 41,issue NUMBER 6, Jun 2017 AWCI News Industry News

June 2017 President’s Message Baselworld 2017 SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY By Fred T. White, CMW21 By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute page 4 page 28 EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES American Watchmakers- Executive Director’s Message Breitling Sold to Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) By Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 Investment Firm 701 Enterprise Drive page 4 By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 Harrison, OH 45030 page 29 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) Editor's Forum or 513-367-9800 By Donna Hardy AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- Special Exhibit at the NAWCC Museum CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE Fax 513-367-1414 page 6 [email protected] • www.awci.com Featuring Atom Moore's Cover Image: www.facebook.com/MyAWCI 2017 Annual Convention Watch Portraits A "mashup" photo composition by Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 June Is Bustin’ Out All Over By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 horological photographer Atom Moore. Executive Director By Terry Kurdzionak page 30 See page 30 for information about an Ext. 310 [email protected] exhibition of his work at the National page 9 Watch & Clock Museum. Donna Hardy In Summary Photo by Atom Moore. Managing Editor A Night at the Museum By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 Ext. 305 [email protected] By Donna Hardy page 31 Kathy Ortt page 32 From the Workshop Editor By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI [email protected] New Members/Memoriam Education & page 35 Janette Torres-Gomez page 42 Certification Graphic Designer & Assistant Technical Support Affiliate Chapter News AWCI Educational Calendar Watchmaking Excellence Ext. 302 [email protected] page 43 page 7 CW21 Standards page 40 Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Watchmaking Instructor Technical Discussions Review Ext. 309 [email protected] Horology in the Media Classifieds Rob McLeod Amplitude Calculations on S-Town Podcast Review Education & Certification Coordinator Buy, Sell, Trade, and Timing Machines By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 Ext. 303 [email protected] By Christopher Barthold Employment Opportunities page 33 page 47 Maureen Seals page 16 Membership Coordinator & Technical Support Columns Advertisers’ Index Ext. 301 [email protected] Making a Watch from Con- page 50 ception to Finished Product Looking at Options: HOROLOGICAL TIMES Business and Workshop ADVISORY COMMITTEE with Kaj Korpela, Part Six Practices Survey Industry Advisory Board Bob Little, CC, CW, Chair By Henrik Korpela Members Daniel Benson, CMW By Hannah Mancill Paul Corn page 20 page 10 page 50 Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 Karel Ebenstreit, CMW, CC21 David Fahrenholz Dale LaDue, CMW21 Hannah Mancill Matt Schloemer, CW21 OUR VISION: Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written AWCI’s vision is to have an educated and passionate horological permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers community practicing the highest standards and with the resources Institute. Copyright © 2017 by the American Watchmakers- Clockmakers Institute. to provide quality goods and services. Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers- OUR MISSION: Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH Setting service standards and educating the horological community. 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $175.00 per year ($15.00 per copy). Members subscription is $99.00 which is included with annual dues of $175.00. Periodicals Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Follow us on Instagram! postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and additional entries. www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. Like us on Facebook! Check out our educational videos! www.facebook.com/MyAWCI www.youtube.com/awci/videos 3 a message from the President FRED T. WHITE, CMW21

oday I heard a song that I haven’t heard fox holes did he carry it into? Then, determine a price with a Tfor some time, “One Day at a Time.” guestimate of time spent to do the job and add a few hours When we think about it, that is all we can more because invariably your first price will be too low. Sec- do—live one day at a time. We sit at our ond, the customer agrees to the price. Now you have the benches and solve one problem at a time. job, so you need to get the dial feet put back on by laser Fred T. White We are problem solvers. Recently, welding; drill and tap the case for screws to hold it [email protected] a client brought me a 16-size pock- We are together; service the movement and put it in the case et watch that had been made into a desk clock. The problem with case screw and case strap. This is where your casing for it had been made from a large gun shell, solvers. problem-solving skills come into play: there is no go- circa WW1. The clock was not properly attached in ing to the parts drawer and pulling out a part. You the case; the dial feet were broken off and attached with glue; have to rely on your skill, knowledge of your craft, and your the case did not close properly; and the movement needed ability to think on your feet to solve these types of problems. servicing. What to do with this basket case? First, get the For me, this is what makes watchmaking and clockmaking story behind the watch; really listen to what the client tells interesting—it’s not the same old thing day after day. You you. This client said she wondered about the man who made are rewarded with the smiles on your customers’ faces when the case. Was he in his barracks and did he use this to fill they pick up their timepieces. By the way, this client also left his time while waiting to go into the trenches? How many a major-brand watch for repair, which is extra business.

a message from the Executive Director JORDAN P. FICKLIN, CW21

I write this month’s message I am This month I’ll be traveling to the San Francisco area for As preparing to travel again for AWCI. the Bay Area Maker Faire, where we will introduce many of Over the last few years, the staff at AWCI the 100,000 people in attendance to the wonderful world of have done everything we can to reduce ex- horology. Then, as this magazine arrives at your doorstep, we penses and we are running about as Don't will be at the JCK show in Las Vegas, where we will Jordan P. Ficklin lean as we possibly can while still offer short demonstrations in our booth with Bergeon, [email protected] delivering our core products and be an custom training to another new IAB member, and services. With everything running smoothly and effi- island. building relationships. I know I’ll meet many of our ciently, I am turning my focus to building relationships members there as well. It is always a pleasure to talk and promoting the organization. As I travel, I will try to stop with you at JCK. by to visit with AWCI members. I also want to get to know If you want me to drop by your shop or come to your affiliate businesses within our industry that are not currently members chapter, please let me know. If you do business with anyone of AWCI. in the horology industry who isn’t an AWCI member, talk to On my recent trip to Salt Lake City, we promoted the hor- them about AWCI. Watchmakers and clockmakers are often ological professions at the Salt Lake City Maker Faire. While introverted, but good relationships are incredibly important in in town, I visited one of our newest IAB members, the Löwen all businesses. There is a common saying “Don’t be an island.” Group, and AWCI members Blake Petersen, Nate Fredell, Leo It is as true for horologists as it is for anyone else. Whatever Ruffinengo, Aaron Recksiek, and Gene Sisson. Thank you to you do, you will probably do it better with help. I invite you to all of you for welcoming me into your workshops and sharing help make AWCI a resource for all. I’ll be doing my part. Talk your thoughts about AWCI and the industry with me. to your fellow horologists. Don’t be an island.

4 June 2017 After taking the classes ‘21st Century Watchmaking “Standards’ and ‘Modern Mechanical Chronograph—ETA7750,’ I gained a great deal of knowledge as well as respect for the art of what we call watchmaking. Tom is an amazing instructor who is full of knowledge. I only wish I had more time to spend at AWCI because there truly is a limitless amount of knowledge to be found within the walls of AWCI. ~Sarkis Semerdjian ” TIME IS MONEY Increase the quality and quantity of your work and become more profitable with classes from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. We offer refresher and advanced courses designed to help you sharpen your skill set and stay current with the latest service techniques.

ARE YOU CERTIFIED? Invest in yourself by taking your skills to the next level, and becoming a Certified Watchmaker of the 21st Century (CW21). Becoming certified demonstrates your high level of expertise to your customers, elevates your store above the competition, and enhances the brands you carry. Start the process today by registering for our 21st Century Standards Course. Not sure which course to sign up for? Log onto our website and fill out our experience questionnaire or contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests.

Call or email our Education & Certification Coordinator today for more information: [email protected] or call 1-866-367-2924, ext 303 E d it o r ’s Forum Dear Mike, Senior Charter Member, National Association You are correct. Due of Jewelry Appraisers to an editing error, Past Society Governor, Region 3, ASA item 2a was misla- Past Member, International Ethics Committee, ASA Member, National Association of Watch and beled. Thank you for Clock Collectors bringing that to our Member, American Watchmakers and attention. Clockmakers Institute Best regards, ~Donna Hardy Dear Richard, Many appraisers say USPAPS as a plural simply because there are many  Standards with which an appraisal must be compliant. ~Dr. Joseph M. Jabbour, M.D., F.A.C.S., ISA Readers Respond Could you please ask the writer, Dear Editors,  Joseph Jabbour, to explain why he I wish to point out an error in the consistently uses the acronym “US- Thanks, HT, for some great covers May 2017 HT. In the article “Test PAPS” for the universally accepted lately. I really like the vintage Your Appraisal Knowledge” on acronym “USPAP”? From what pocket watch movements on the page 14, item number 2a is erro- source did he find “USPAPS”? cover of April’s issue. My first neously referred to as a “marine Since 1987 when the copyright was exposure to watches was with my chronograph.” I believe the cor- donated to the appraisal foundation grandfather's pocket watch, which rect term is “marine chronometer.” until the latest version (2016-7), it hung under glass in the cabinet of My understanding is, a chro- has always been “USPAP.” I would things I was not allowed to touch. nograph is a portable or wearable appreciate the answer in the next When I graduated high school, my timepiece that not only tells time, edition of Horological Times. parents gave me my own pocket but also has an added complication Thanks, watch, which I still have. I wasn’t of a stopwatch, which item 2a does ~RICHARD F. DRISCOLL, ASA, AAA the coolest of kids in the 80s with not. A marine chronometer, which Appraisals of Antiques, Works of Art, a pocket watch, but I still loved item 2a is, is a portable timepiece Jewelry, Silver & Residential Contents it. Pocket watches often get lost designed to keep accurate time Accredited Senior Appraiser (ASA), between the wrist watch and clocks, within strict tolerances necessary American Society of Appraisers so thanks for highlighting them. for navigation at sea. Certified Member (AAA), Appraisers Kindly, Regards, Association of America ~Ken Nichols ~Mike Katz Member, Accredited Gemologists Association

Writers for Horological Times can earn between $300 and $875 or more per article. It depends on the length of the article (25 cents per word). Earn a 10% bonus for submitting assigned articles early or on time. If you’d like to write for Horological Times, email [email protected] for guidelines.

6 June 2017 educational calendar

Prices reflect member’s discount! Contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests. Class Schedule for 2017 Reserve your spot today. Contact Rob McLeod at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303. $499 Servicing the Aging Modern This three-day class focuses on repairs to the modern floor clock June Floor Clock in the Home movement that can be completed in the home as well as determin- NAWCC National Convention ing when the clock needs to go to the shop. Check our website for Instructor: Michael Gainey, CC21 more details: www.awci.com/classes 26-28 Sheraton Arlington Hotel, Arlington, Texas WATCH 350: 5 CEUs $1,095 July Intermediate Micromechanics Take your lathe skills to the next level with this new course. Check The Watchmaker’s Lathe II our website for more details: www.awci.com/classes Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 10-14 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio Watchmaker’s Association of Ohio July (WAO) Jim Lubic, CMW21, is teaching a class on using the jewelers lathe on Instructors: Jim Lubic, CMW21 and Friday, July 14th. Tom Schomaker, CMW21, will be teaching a class Tom Schomaker, CMW21 on Watch Estimating on Saturday, July 15th. 14-15 Sugar Grove, Ohio WATCH 100: $750 This class is perfect for anyone thinking about entering the profession of watchmaking or the individual who wants to gain a better appreciation for July Introduction to Watchmaking the art of watchmaking. Learn basic skills and techniques used by the modern Instructor: Aaron Recksiek, CW21 watchmaker. Before attending, students are recommended to study Theory 17-21 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio of Horology and be familiar with the basic nomenclature of watchmaking. To help you prepare for the exam, please $2,495 visit our watchmaker preparation page and July the study aids page. CW21 Exam www.awci.com/education-certification/certification/ 24-28 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio watchmaker-preparation/watchmaker-study-guides/

WATCH 210: $1,095 Expand what you know to increase your profit! Quartz watches can be one of the most profitable sectors of your August Quartz & Quartz Chronograph business. This course reviews quartz watch repair and quartz Service Procedures & Diagnostics chronographs, including the various important electronic 14-18 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 tests, giving you the skills you need to be faster and more AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio consistent at servicing quartz watches. WATCH 230: $1,095 Build on what you know in this course by investigating the verification and analysis of the escapement function, poising (static and dynamic), September Balance Staffing & Timing truing, and timing adjustment in a mechanical watch, cutting out a Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 balance staff on a lathe, adjusting the balance staff, and removing the 11-15 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio balance staff from Glucydur balances with the Horia tool. WATCH 220: $1,095 Brush up on your chronograph skills before taking the CW21 Exam September Modern Mechanical Chronograph― with this class on the modern mechanical chronograph. It focuses ETA 7750 on the service and adjustment of modern mechanical chronographs, 18-22 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 such as the ETA 7750. AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio October AWCI Annual Convention & Visit us at www.awci.com or follow us on social media for future info. Educational Symposium 4-8 Tampa, Florida WATCH 175: 5 CEUs $1,350 Today’s luxury watch consumer demands perfection. This course is October Case & Bracelet Refinishing perfect for the watchmaker or dedicated refinisher. It will help you (includes polishing kit) achieve the different finishes on modern watch cases. Also covered is Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 disassembly and assembly of common watch cases. 9-13 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio For additional details about specific courses in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists, visit: http://www.awci.com/classes or contact Rob McLeod, Education & Certification Coordinator, at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), x303. For additional calendar events visit: http://www.awci.com/calendar.

Horological Times 7 2017 Annual

The Treasures of AWCI Await You at Tampa Bay

Great education opportunities and outstanding vendor fair. “ ~Craig Stone ”

Come to the DoubleTree Tampa Airport Westshore for AWCI’s 2017 Look for more details in upcoming Annual Convention issues of Horological Times and social media. Mark your October 4-7 calendar now! Visit us on Tampa, Florida Facebook.

$139/night includes breakfast and free shuttle from the Tampa Airport June Is Bustin’ Out All Over By Terry Kurdzionak

ell folks, here we are in June! Memorial Day tended may think, “I won’t know anyone there, or I Wis already behind us and soon it will be don’t want to spend the money, or I cannot take that Independence Day. I don’t know about you, but much time away from the bench, or I’ll miss bingo, or I am always amazed at how quickly we go from whatever else.” Those thoughts will be overshadowed Memorial Day, to the 4th of July, and then to by the benefits you will receive. Labor Day. Where does the summer go? The kids Let’s face it, membership numbers are declining and grandkids will be back to school or college, and in associations such as ours. We, as members, need to the rest of us will settle in to our regular routine, not support AWCI, support our vendors, support one an- that we have totally slacked off during other, and always continue with our ed- We need to the summer months! Summer just ucation. You CAN teach an old dog new support AWCI, seems to have the ring of relaxation, tricks! So, what are YOU waiting for? support our good times, getting together, and decent vendors, support Come to the 2017 convention in weather. I would like for you to extend one another, and Tampa on October 4-8. Bring a friend, that time of relaxation, good times, and continue our spouse, or significant other. We call great weather to include more learning, education. them “Plus Ones,” and we make sure new friendships, and networking by that they will be glad to have come! I attending our next convention in Tampa, Florida. promise that you will be re-energized (regardless of As Dr. Seuss (from my hometown of Springfield, the battery type you use) and that you will want to do Massachusetts) once said, “Oh the places you’ll go!” it again in 2018. The Tampa Bay region is a beautiful place with so I invite your questions, comments, and concerns. much to offer everyone. Kindly email me at [email protected]. I look Our conventions provide so much more than you forward to seeing you again or meeting you for the could ever imagine. You will meet great people who first time at the Tampa convention! work in the same field as you; they share the same By the way…more info, next issue! concerns, as well as the same passion for horology. Terry Kurdzionak is a graduate of Northeastern Universi- Those of you who have attended our conventions ty College of Nursing. She has been involved in the family know the benefits. Those of you who have never at- watch/clock/material business for 28 years and has served as an officer and board member of AWCI as well as the membership and convention committees.

Horological Times 9 Column: Looking at Options: Business and Workshop Practices Survey Looking at Options: Business and Workshop Practices Survey Understanding Small Business Insurance By Hannah Mancill

the last article, I discussed factors to consider when Twelve readers participated in April’s Insurance survey. In selecting a battery brand. This month’s topic is small When asked which insurance company carries their business insurance. primary business insurance (including jewelers block, gen- Rather than comparing insurance carriers (e.g., Jeweler’s eral liability, professional liability/errors and omissions, and Mutual vs. State Farm) and costs, I have opted to describe property policies), almost every respondent selected a dif- common small business policies as well as certain specialty ferent company. policies relevant to the watch and clock repair industry. Three respondents selected State Farm. The most notable reason to avoid carrier and cost • Two selected Jeweler’s Mutual. comparison (within a national platform like the Horological • One person selected AllState. Times) is policy types, premiums, and deductibles will vary • One selected Nationwide. according to location, risk exposures, valuation of inven- • No participants selected Progressive or Travelers. tory and loss history. Though HT readers have watch and • Several survey-takers submitted their own answer; one clock repair in common, every workshop is unique. The • person each wrote in the Hartford, Central Mutual, differences call for unique coverages. Shop owners will State Auto, CNA, and MedCost. also have different ideas of how much coverage is right for their businesses, which will influence cost. A licensed, local Respondents were asked about monthly cost (premi- insurance agent or broker can provide the most accurate um) of business insurance. Ranges of dollar amounts in in- estimation of which policies and how much coverage will crements of $150 were provided as answer choices. successfully protect your business. The vast majority of survey-takers (84%) spend $0-150 Carrier comparison can also be difficult due to vari- • per month. ations in policy types, including features and benefits of One participant spends between $301 and $450. policies. For example, Jeweler’s Mutual and Jeweler’s un- • Another participant spends upwards of $1,050. BLOCKed offer Jeweler’s Block policies (more on that • later) to protect customers’ property; AllState, State Farm, As previously mentioned, coverage varies according and Insureon do not. However, AllState and State Farm to inventory and risk exposure. Without understanding offer a comparable Business Personal Property policy, and which types of coverage each respondent has and the na- Insureon provides Bailee’s Coverage. Though these policies ture of their business, premium comparison is unfair. For share the purpose of protecting customers’ property, they example, the respondent with the higher premium may don’t work the same way; each has different limits and ex- sell watches or jewelry from his or her shop in addition to clusions. Wading through every carrier’s group of policies taking in repairs. Retail locations have a higher risk expo- and making comparisons is quite a job and would result in sure and therefore higher premiums, which could account a lengthy read. for this difference. This article, therefore, will focus on clarifying insur- Nine participants responded to the question asking ance jargon and bringing to the readers’ attention possible about the most catastrophic event experienced by their gaps in coverage. shop.

10 June 2017 • Two answered burglary was the most catastrophic event. • Of the two burglary victims, one did not close shop at the time of the incident and one did. • The survey-taker who closed shop disclosed that work stopped for between eight days and one month, and recovery cost over $100,000. The respondent was covered by Jeweler’s Mutual at the time of the event, and was “very satisfied” with how Jeweler’s Mutual responded to submitted claims. • One respondent answered fire was the most catastrophic event at the business, but no additional information was provided. Debris from a building adjacent to Pav & Broome Fine Jewelers in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina; photo taken from the back of their shop. • One survey-taker selected flood. • This respondent said work did not stop during recov- pieces of the neighboring building strewn about it, a truly ery, and recovery cost less than $10,000. AllState was horrific sight. the carrier at the time of the event, and the respondent Recovery cost between $35,001 and $50,000, and work was “somewhat satisfied” with AllState. stopped for between eight days and one month. Fortunately • Less than half of respondents have not experienced for Broome, all jewelry was secured in a vault, and none of a catastrophic event such as burglary, vandalism, or his customers’ pieces sustained damage. In fact, many were natural disaster. grateful the items were stored safely at his shop since their homes were destroyed in the hurricane. A commonly touted statistic from the Insurance Insti- Mr. Broome describes himself as being very satisfied tute for Business & Home Safety reads: “25% of businesses with the way Federated Insurance handled claims submit- that experience a disaster never reopen.” As a watchmaker ted for this event. I asked if he had any advice for read- who would like to see our industry flourish, I am troubled ers. He suggests backing up data to an offsite storage or by the possibility of any repair shop involuntarily closing, cloud service, stating that “if not for having backups for especially if closure can be prevented. It is prudent for re- our point-of-sale and other data, we may have had serious pair shop owners to have insurance policies in place that problems.” (He mentioned his shop was without electric- would alleviate the financial burden when rebuilding and ity for two weeks.) could even keep the business open should disaster occur. But what if Broome had not been so fortunate? What Take, for example, Vernon Broome of Pav & Broome if his building looked more like his neighbor’s? What if his Fine Jewelers in Gulfport, Mississippi. Broome provided customers’ pieces were damaged? How do you know if you his contact information in April’s survey, allowing me to have the right coverage for such devastations? talk with him about the most catastrophic event to occur to As I mentioned earlier, your best bet is to ask a licensed his workshop, Hurricane Katrina. agent about possible scenarios. There’s a lot to cover when He described his 2005 experience as follows: “We were it comes to commercial insurance. Literally. Even at the ex- insured with Federated Insurance at the time.... We were clusion of employee, automobile, and data-breach insurance compensated for two weeks of payroll and to repair minor policies, watch and clock repair shop owners have their damages to our building, which involved cosmetic repairs hands full establishing coverage for potential: as there wasn’t any structural or water damages. Our insurance company also paid for the removal of an adjacent • Damage or destruction of building building that was scattered throughout our parking lot.” • Damage or loss of tools Mr. Broome was kind enough to supply a photograph of • Damage or loss of customers’ property

Horological Times 11 Column: Looking at Options: Business and Workshop Practices Survey

• Lost wages According to www.insuranceuonline.org, “a jewelry • Customer Injury store, because of the unique risks, usually requires more • Litigation customized coverage than what’s included in a standard General Liability BOP.” On the other hand, watch and clock repair shops that don’t sell product are considered “low risk,” which General Liability insurance covers bodily injury claims. qualifies them for a BOP. This policy also covers the cost of legal defense and settlement should the business owner be sued, and it can Specialty Insurance cover claims from false or misleading advertising, libel, Inland Marine slander, and copyright infringement. Though “marine” may make you think aquatic, Inland Ma- Example If a customer falls and is injured in your rine insurance is actually a form of property insurance for shop, and the injuries result in medical bills or a lawsuit, certain types of moveable property and/or unique property general liability can help cover these costs. not covered by business property policies.

Business Property Example If a clockmaker gets in a car accident on the way to a customer’s home, Inland Marine insurance could Business Property insurance covers damage to property cover the cost of damaged tools. Auto insurance typically owned by the business owner (the building, equipment, won’t cover the contents of the car, and business property computers, etc.) in the event of a fire, vandalism, theft, and policies usually only cover tools damaged on business certain types of weather. premises. Example If a fire burns part of your shop and the Bailee’s Coverage and Jeweler’s Block policies building is damaged, business property policies help cover (described below) are classes of Inland Marine coverage. costs associated with repairing or rebuilding as well as repairing or replacing damaged equipment. Bailee’s Coverage

Business Interruption/Business Income Bailee’s Coverage covers loss to customer property temporarily in the business owner’s possession. This type of Business income insurance provides coverage to replace policy is commonly held by businesses like dry cleaners, lost wages in the event the business owner can’t perform jewelers, and auto mechanics (to name a few). work following a loss. It can also help cover the operating A bailee is an individual or organization to which per- and payroll expenses to keep the business operational. sonal property is temporarily entrusted for storage, repair, Example If a business floods, preventing the or servicing. A bailor temporarily relinquishes possession watchmaker from working in his or her shop, this policy but not ownership of this personal property. The bailee is can pay for the estimated income he or she would have responsible for protecting the property and eventually re- received if able to work. turning it in the same condition as it was received. The bail- Business Owners Policy (BOP) ee is liable for costs associated with repairing or replacing the property if it is damaged or destroyed while in his or Business Owners Policies (BOPs) bundle several types of her possession. Bailee’s Coverage can protect watchmakers commercial insurance together, offering the policy set for and clockmakers if a mistake is made during repair or if a a lower cost than if the business owner purchased policies customer’s timepiece is misplaced. individually. Typically, BOPs include general liability, Example If a customer’s clock is stolen from a business property, and business interruption coverages. clockmaker while in his or her shop for service, Bailee’s BOPs are often customized; additional coverages can be insurance could cover the loss. incorporated. BOPs are almost always recommended to small business owners.

12 June 2017 Jeweler’s Block Helpful Information Most property policies only cover $2,500 of losses to cus- Homeowners insurance policies do not generally cover tomer property, which is insufficient for shop owners who home-based business losses, so watchmakers and clock- repair timepieces valued at multiple thousands of dollars. makers working from home should consider taking out Created with jewelry business owners in mind, Jeweler’s business policies as well. Block policies cover high-risk objects (like jewelry) exclud- Business owners should work only with a licensed in- ed from most business property policies due to their high surance agent or broker to avoid scams and ensure they’re value and the ease in which they can be stolen or misplaced. receiving the right coverage. Once insurance policies are in These policies cover property on business premises as well place, investigate the appropriateness of coverage with the as at other locations and while in transit to protect jewelers agent or broker annually. presenting at trade shows. Finally, implementing risk management practices can Participants were asked if their carrier offers a Jeweler’s help the business owner prevent losses and reduce insur- Block policy and, if so, whether or not they held it. ance costs. Unfortunate events cannot always be avoid- ed, but the magnitude of their impact can be decreased. Ten participants answered this question. 50% an- • Business owners can install or enhance security systems, swered they do not know whether or not their carrier properly maintain water pipes and electrical systems, and offered a jeweler’s block policy. develop a fire prevention plan to reduce risk exposure. Re- 30% answered their carrier does not offer the policy. • sources like https://disastersafety.org/ can help indepen- 20% selected the option that their carrier not only of- • dents create disaster plans and employ risk management fers the policy but they hold it. practices in their businesses. • 0% answered their carrier offers this policy but they do not hold it. Sources According to respondents, the Hartford, AllState, and www.forbes.com/sites/thesba/2012/01/19/13-types-of-insurance-a-small-business-owner-should- have/#2ce34f5e20d3 CNA do not offer a Jeweler’s Block policy. Although it www. jckonline.com/magazine-article/everything-you-need-to-know-about-jewelers-block- appears from their websites that State Farm and Central insurance Mutual do not offer this policy, both carriers offer Inland www. jckonline.com/editorial-article/how-to-make-sense-of-jewelers-block-insurance www. sba.gov/managing-business/running-business/insurance Marine coverage. www. sba.gov/blogs/general-business-liability-insurance-how-it-works-and-what-coverage-right-you Because jewelry stores tend to have a higher risk of www. disastersafety.org/ibhs-news-releases/dont-wait-until-its-too-late-make-a-business- burglary or robbery than other types of retailers, Jeweler’s continuity-plan-to-be-prepared-says-ibhs-2 www. insureuonline.org/smallbusiness/basics_small_business_101.htm Block coverage is contingent on having security equipment www. imua.org/Files/reports/JEWELERS_BLOCK_GUIDE_TO_LOSS_PREVENTION_CONTROL.html and protocols in place to mitigate risk. www. irmi.com/online/insurance-glossary/terms/b/bailee-coverage.aspx Example If a customer’s watch is stolen from a www. investopedia.com/terms/b/bailees-customers-insurance.asp#ixzz4fareSpgn www. jimkinmartin.com/2011/05/05/what-is-inland-marine-insurance watchmaker’s shop despite its excellent security system, www. irmi.com/online/insurance-glossary/terms/i/inland-marine-coverage.aspx Jeweler’s Block could cover its replacement. www. trustedchoice.com/business-insurance/coverage-types/bailees-coverage www. allstate.com/business-insurance/small-business/repair-maintenance-overview.aspx Umbrella www. statefarm.com/small-business-solutions/insurance/business-owners-policies/businessowners- insurance Umbrella policies extend coverage once limits of other pol- www. services.insureon.com/professions/jewelry-repair-shops/285 icies are reached. www. thehartford.com/business-insurance/repair-shop www. disastersafety.org Example If a business sustains $300,000 in damages with a coverage limit of $200,000, the business owner must pay the $100,000 difference. With an umbrella policy Hannah Mancill is a graduate of the North American covering $50,000 in excess damages, the business owner Institute of Swiss Watchmaking and a watchmaker at a pays $50,000 after the property and umbrella policies have service center in Texas. taken effect. Survey on next page...  Horological Times 13 Column: Looking at Options: Business and Workshop Practices Survey To take the next survey, “What Are You Working On?” go to: https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/T2BMQR5 What Are You Working On? If you don’t want to take the survey online, answer the questions below and email to [email protected] or mail to Editor/AWCI/701 Enterprise Dr./Harrison, OH 45030.

1. Which technology makes 3. Do you accept work from 6. Do you perform resto- 9. Are you working on some- up the majority of your re- the public? ration work on vintage thing interesting? pairs (include everything that a. Yes pieces? Share it by emailing enters your shop from battery b. No a. Yes [email protected] changes to full services)? b. No or describe it below. a. Mechanical 4. Do you accept trade work b. Quartz from other stores? 7. What is your favorite a. Yes watch or clock brand to 2. Approximately what per- b. No work on? (open ended) centage of your repairs are overhauls/clean, oil, adjust/ 5. Do you influence what 8. What is your favorite cal- full service? kind of work comes in? iber to service (include cal- a. 0-25% a. Yes iber and manufacturer; e.g., b. 26-50% b. No ETA 6497)? (open ended) c. 51-75% d. 76-100%

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UPS, the UPS brandmark and the color brown are trademarks of United Parcel Service of America, Inc. and are used with the permission of the owner. All rights reserved. Technical Discussion: Amplitude Calculations on Timing Machines Amplitude Calculations on Timing Machines

By Christopher Barthold

hile working with several different models view the motions that create the soundwave we will W of timing machines at the North Ameri- be looking at. A balance spring starts from the mo- can Institute of Swiss Watchmaking, I have noticed ment of reversal of the balance at maximum angular that amplitude measurements are fickle: fluctua- displacement. The restoring force of the hairspring tions of 10° or more at times, arbitrary stabilization accelerates the balance towards the escapement. times, and inconsistent readings between machines. When it reaches the escapement, unlocking occurs, the My classmate Casey Salinas had an idea that perhaps impulse pin strikes the pallet fork slot, and the motion we could generate a MIDI file with a computerized of the balance wheel is actually slowed by this force. It sound output that would mimic a watch that ticked is here that the noises are first heard by the timing ma- at exactly 18,000 vph and 300° amplitude. It would chine—the unlocking of the escapement and the pallet then be possible to see if these fickle issues would fork slot contacting the impulse pin. Then, the escape disappear or which machines were perhaps in need wheel impulses the fork against the impulse plane of of calibration. the pallet stone, and the drop of the escape wheel on Before we could proceed, we realized we had no the locking face of the pallet jewel occurs. This is the idea how a timing machine actually works. How does loudest sound heard by the timing machine. Once the the timing machine actually take a sound input and balance wheel passes through the escapement, it con- compute the rate and amplitude of the watch? When tinues to move, though it is now decelerating back to its we began using our Witschi Chronoscope S1 tim- maximum angular displacement. ing machines, I noticed they have a “scope” option, How is it possible to calculate the amplitude with which allows us to view the soundwaves the machine the lift angle and frequency alone? It seems that many is actually measuring. Through close study of this other variables would also have an effect. Wouldn’t screen and some data collection, I was able to solve a stiffer balance spring have a smaller amplitude the problem of how the timing machine analyzes the because the force can slow it down more rapidly? sound input and calculates the amplitude we watch- Wouldn’t a heavier balance wheel have more inertia makers rely on. With a little bit of physics, math, and and thus be capable of larger amplitude compared to an understanding of how the escapement functions, a lighter balance of equal speed? How can a machine we can not only figure this out, but calculate it our- take this into consideration, or is it even necessary? selves. I hope you find this as exciting as I did. Let us examine the mathematical processes the timing machine undergoes to resolve this. Amplitude To understand how the machine determines First, I should establish that we are considering the the amplitude, we need to look at what the timing motion of a Swiss lever escapement, and we will re- machine is actually measuring and how this specific

16 June 2017 measurement relates to the balance wheel and However, the Witschi document stops short of de- escapement through a macroscopic lens. It is easy to scribing a full calculation, saying “the amplitude can get bogged down by the tiny, micro forces that occur therefore be calculated…taking into account the beat very rapidly—unlocking, impulse, etc. Looking at the number and lift angle”. 1 However, using the known whole oscillation of the balance wheel is the key. frequency of the balance, the known lift angle, and the angular speed of the balance at the escapement, we can determine the amplitude by looking at the basics of simple harmonic motion. The general form for the position of any oscillating body over time is: x=A∙sin(2πf∙t) where A is the amplitude, f is the frequency of the oscillator in Hertz, and t is the time in seconds that the oscillator

Fig. 1 is at that position. Note that since sin(2πf∙t) is always between -1 and 1, the maximum value is A “Test and Measurement Technology in Mechan- (just imagine the sin(2πf∙t)=1). ical Watches” is a document on the Witschi website The velocity of the body is the derivative of the that explains the principles of using the waveform to position: determine amplitude. The first point to understand is the timing machine measures the time from the = = [ sin(2 )] = 2 ⋅cos(2 ) beginning of unlocking (the first sound) to the drop (the loudest sound). And just as the maximum amplitude of the position Figure 1 was taken while timing an ETA 6498 wave was A, the maximum value of the velocity using the Witschi Chronoscope S1. The “scope” will be A∙2πf (again, when cos(2πf∙t)=1). So,

setting is selected to see the waveforms. Note that νmax=A∙2πf. there are dashed vertical lines 2.5 ms apart to show Here is where we view the balance wheel macro- the scale, but there is another dashed line (indicated scopically. The maximum velocity of a free oscillator by the arrows) where the machine determines the occurs at the dead point. In a balance wheel, this is loudest sound of the escapement. It is this line that assumed to be at the escapement. It is true that the allows the computer to determine the time between oscillator experiences some retarding and accelerating unlocking and drop. The balance wheel is traversing forces during its interaction with the pallet fork. How- through the lift angle during this time; therefore, we ever, due to the nearly balanced effect of these forces, can determine the angular speed of the balance at the change in velocity is negligible during a single oscil- this point. In the top example, the 6498 took 9.1 ms lation. This is demonstrated by the fact that the balance to traverse the 44° lift angle, so the angular speed is wheel does not measurably gain or lose amplitude in over 4,800°/s. 1. Witschi Electronic Ltd. Test and Measurement Technology for Mechanical Watches, October 2010. http://www.witschi.com/assets/files/sheets/Test%20and%20measuring%20technology%20me- chanical%20watches.pdf

Horological Times 17 Technical Discussion: Amplitude Calculations on Timing Machines

one oscillation, as it would have a different final am- The Watch Escapement,3 and other texts, this sliding plitude than it started with. Thus, the maximum speed encompasses ½ - 1° of arc. I found that performing of the balance does not measurably change during its the calculation on my data after subtracting 1° from interaction with the escapement. the lift angle yields amplitudes nearly identical to the Therefore, we can perform the calculation based displayed amplitude on the timing machine. I assume on the general assumption that the maximum velocity that Witschi uses 1° to estimate run to the banking. occurs when the balance is traversing the lift angle. 1 = As I demonstrated earlier, the maximum velocity can 2 be calculated by the timing machine’s measurement, Putting this to the test, we see it in action: because we know the lift angle of the balance and the Using the top waveform shown in Figure 1, the time it takes to traverse the lift angle. So, ETA 6498 is an 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz) movement with = ; where λ is the lift angle and τ is the time a lift angle of 44°. The drop/dotted line occurs very to traverse the lift angle. near 9.1 ms after unlocking.

And we already know that νmax=A∙2πf 1 44° −1° = = =301° 2 2 2.5 9.1×10−3 We now have two expressions for νmax and we want to know the amplitude of the balance, so we set This exactly matches the amplitude shown in

the two equations for maximum velocity (νmax) equal the upper right-hand corner of the first waveform. to each other; I will leave it to the reader to calculate the bottom 2 = waveform, which drops at just over 9.5 ms. Another and then, example: = 2

Run to the Banking This formula gives decent results. By looking at the dashed line on the scope waveform and estimating its value (which is by far the least accurate part of the process), you get pretty close to the amplitude dis-

played by the machine. However, it is not precise, and Fig. 2

you will find the formula presented above will return In Figure 2, a 28,800 vph (4 Hz) movement with angles that are higher than the displayed amplitude. a 51° lift angle is timed. The drop/dotted line occurs This is because when the drop occurs, the bal- almost exactly at 7.0 ms after unlocking. ance has not quite traversed the entire lift angle. 1 51° −1° The pallet fork must finish its motion and slide to = = =284° 2 2 4 7.0×10−3 the banking pin. According to The Theory of Horolog y,2

2. Charles-Andre Reymondin, et al. The Theory of Horology (Neuchâtel: Swiss Federation of Technical 3. Henry B. Fried, The Watch Escapement: How to Analyze, How to Adjust, How to Repair: Lever, Cylinder Colleges WOSTEP, 1999). (New York: Columbia Communications, 1974).

18 June 2017 Once more, this is nearly identical to the If so, I consider the problem complete, knowing machine’s calculated angle of 283°. Again, the reader that with a microphone, some sound software, and can verify the calculation for the bottom waveform, a calculator, I am able to calculate the amplitude of which drops at just over 7.5 ms. a watch to within 1-2° of the most precise products on the market. Now I can finally check those pesky Final Thoughts on Accuracy timing machines in our classroom. This was a learning experience for me and I do not claim it to be definitive—but it is grounded in some Christopher Barthold is a WOSTEP student who will grauate good physics and gives excellent results. By under- from the North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking standing that the timing machine measures the time in November 2017. He has a bachelor's degree in physics and was a high school physics teacher for five years prior to between unlocking and drop, and uses this to calcu- transitioning to the field of watchmaking. late the maximum speed of the balance wheel, we can simply find the amplitude with standard simple harmonic motion calculations. It is important to note the machine’s determi- nation of when the drop occurs is largely reliant on the software’s ability to determine the “spike” of the waveform (seen in the diagrams). A well-tuned watch should have a well-defined drop sound and nearly vertical line. But if the peak is not so defined, such as in the bottom waveform of Figure 2, there may be some errors in the time and, thus, the amplitude. The uncertainty in the run to the banking angle may mean that timing calculations that rely on acous- tic measurement will always be merely close to the true amplitude, but we can never know for sure. Per- haps your watch only has a 0.5° slide or 0.75°. If the timing machine calculates using a 1° slide, then your amplitude will be off by a couple of degrees. Is this uncertainty accurate enough?

Horological Times 19 Technical Discussion: Making a Watch from Conception to Finished Product with Kaj Korpela, Part Six Making a Watch from Kaj Korpela Conception to Finished Product with Kaj Korpela Watchmaking, Prototyping, and Restoration of Watches PART SIX

By Henrik Korpela

hen Kaj finished all the escapement parts, balance is in the center, the escape wheel will be at a Whe was ready to test them. Before he could further distance from it and need clearance around it. test them, he needed to make the tourbillon cage, all Therefore, tourbillons often have a right-angled pallet the necessary parts to hold the escape wheel and pal- fork to make the escapement more compact, allowing let fork in place, and later a balance for testing. Now for a larger balance centrally positioned in the cage, seemed a good time to make the cage, which is com- Figure 1. prised of an upper bridge (cage or carriage) and lower bridge (cage or carriage) fixed together with pillars. He also needed to make the escape wheel/pallet fork bridge and a lower tube to hold the escape wheel to allow it to interact with the fixed fourth wheel. When Kaj designed the tourbillon cage, he was limited by the case size which limits the size of the mainplate. He wanted a large balance to potential- ly have the best timekeeping for this particular size watch, and the limitation for the balance is usually the available space in the mainplate. Since he is making a tourbillon watch, the cage surrounding the balance is another limiting factor. Therefore, the cage needs to be as large as possible in the mainplate. It also needs to be designed to allow for a large balance. The designing of the escapement is also important because if using a conventional, straight line pallet fork, it would displace the balance from the center of the cage, mak- Figure 1.Drawing of Kaj’s tourbillon cage with all ing the balance much smaller in diameter. Or if the its parts assembled.

20 June 2017 The tourbillon gear train ratio is the same as a Kaj designed his tourbillon to make one revolu- conventional watch's.¹ The difference is that the third tion per minute. Therefore, it can also be used as the wheel drives the tourbillon pinion instead of the second hand. Having a slower-turning cage, such as fourth pinion as in a convention watch, Figure 2. one turn in six minutes, will lower the moment of Since the tourbillon pinion is fixed to the cage inertia, and a weaker mainspring could be used to by friction fitting or with screws, the entire cage is drive it.² However, then it’s not possible to have a turning around the fixed fourth wheel, which is fixed second hand fitted to it because the train calcula- with screws on the mainplate. It is usually located in tions must be different. the same area as the balance in a conventional watch. Another difference between a tourbillon watch The escape wheel is therefore placed near the outside and a conventional watch is that when the escapement of the cage, allowing the pinion to turn around the unlocks, it causes a reversal of the escape wheel due fixed fourth wheel. This is another difference be- to draw. If the escape wheel is reversing its direction, tween a conventional and a tourbillon watch: normal- it’s also reversing the entire cage, which requires more ly, the escape pinion is directly driven by the fourth energy than in a conventional watch. wheel; but in a tourbillon, the entire escape pinion is moved around by the cage turning around the fixed fourth wheel. Because the cage moves the escape pinion around the fixed fourth wheel, the escape wheel is forced to do its normal action with the pallet fork transmitting the movement to the balance via the roller jewel. So, a tourbillon watch is like a conventional watch except the escape pinion turns around a fixed fourth wheel. Consequently, the entire escapement must also turn around the fixed fourth wheel. The balance also turns around its own axis each revolution of the cage, thus averaging out positional errors in the vertical positions every revolution of the cage. For example, if there is a heavy spot on the balance below the axis, in half a revolution that heavy spot will be above the axis. Therefore, the end effect is that the tourbillon averages out these changes of rates due to the poise errors, having a net result of no rate difference in theory. Figure 2. View of how the tourbillon is driven by the third wheel.

1. George Daniels, Watchmaking (2011), 298. 2. George Daniels, Watchmaking (2011), 298.

Horological Times 21 Technical Discussion: Making a Watch from Conception to Finished Product with Kaj Korpela, Part Six

Kaj decided to make his tourbillon cage out of escapement bridge as well as holes to insert the steel. Because the cage itself serves as a holder for all piercing saw blade to saw out the cage to make it the moving parts in the tourbillon, it can be made light, Figures 3-5. from many different materials, steel being the classi- cal one. Other makers have experimented with titanium, beryllium copper, and even aluminum to make the tourbillon as light as possible. A tourbillon must be as light as possible to keep the moment of inertia low. It’s also important for almost all moving parts of a watch to be light because heavier parts require more energy to move something around. If a part is big and heavy, a stronger mainspring is needed to turn it. A stronger mainspring will also cause more wear to the Figure 3. Drilling all the necessary holes for the moving parts, which is not ideal. Another way to low- cages in the Hauser M1 jig-boring machine. er the moment of inertia is to make the cage smaller.³ Kaj did not want to make a smaller cage because it would negatively influence the timekeeping because of friction of the balance staff pivots having a larger negative effect on the timekeeping.4 Before making the cage, he first had to prepare the material to be in a shape that was practical to work with before the machining. He turned the material in the lathe to be like discs. Figure 4. Result after the drilling in the M1. Kaj decided to use Z3C (1.2510)5 steel that was recommended by Kaufmann, a specialist metal supplier to the Swiss watch industry, located in la Chaux-de-Fonds, www.kaufmann-fils.ch/aciers. They also supply other materials for the watch industry, such as various types of brass and maillechort (Ger- man silver) for mainplates and bridges, beryllium copper, and aluminum. Kaj used the M1 jig-boring machine to drill all the holes for the pillars, shock absorbers, and screw and steady pin holes for the

3. George Daniels, Watchmaking (2011), 297. 4. George Daniels, Watchmaking (2011), 297. Figure 5. Sawing out to make the cage lighter. 5. www.doerrenberg.com.sg/fileadmin/template/doerrenberg/stahl/DatenblaetterEng/1.2510_en.pdf

22 June 2017 He decided to leave some material for later filing before the heat treatment to ensure it would be rigid enough to avoid too much warping during the hardening procedure, Figure 6. The heat treatment was done the same way as it was for the escape wheel, in a hardening box wrapped with iron wire as explained in part five of this article series, Figures 7-9. Figure 9. Upper cage after tempering (right) next to another upper cage that has been partially filed out (left).

The next step for Kaj was to file out the final shape of the upper and lower cages. He did this by hand in a small vice with various-shaped diamond and ceramic files with the same vice setup as when he crossed out his wheels. The outlines were scribed with the M1, Figure 10.

Figure 6. Both upper and lower cage ready for heat treatment.

Figure 10. Filing out the shape of the upper cage in a mini vice.

Next, Kaj needed to make pillars and screws for the upper and lower cages to be able to fix them to-

Figure 7. Upper and lower cage being hardened. gether, Figure 11. They were made in the Schaublin 102 lathe.

Figure 8. Right: Lower cage after tempering. Left: Figure 11. Lower and upper cage fixed together a lower cage almost finished. with pillars and screws.

Horological Times 23 Technical Discussion: Making a Watch from Conception to Finished Product with Kaj Korpela, Part Six

Next, Kaj made the escape wheel/pallet fork bridge that would be located near the center of the cage, fixed with two screws and steady pins on the lower cage. First, he drilled with the M1, and turned the step Figure 14. Drilling the jewel holes in the M1. Figure 12. Escape wheel/ in the lathe. The pallet fork bridge prepared soon-to-become- with turned step and central hole. bridge, made of the same material as the upper and lower cages, was initially prepared in the lathe as a disc with a central hole. After this Figure 15. Bridge after drilling jewel holes Figure 13. Bridge after screwed down on lower cage. step was done, he drilling in the M1. drilled the screw holes and steady pin holes in the M1, Figures 12-13. For the jewel holes in the bridge to be exactly superimposed on the lower jewel holes, the lower holes were first brought to the exact center of the spindle of the M1. This is easy to do since there is a centering microscope that can replace the cutting spindle of the quill. Therefore, you would be looking at exactly the same point as where you would drill. Doing this in the jig-boring machine is much Figure 16. Escape wheel/pallet fork bridge after some finishing in its location on the lower cage faster and easier than doing it in the lathe, which is with jewels now fitted. very time consuming and difficult. To avoid bend- ing the bridge when drilling, Kaj inserted a piece support. The parts were secured with glue during of brass underneath the bridge, which acted as a the drilling operation, Figures 14-16.

24 June 2017 Since the bridge was made of hardened and tem- side wall of the hole. If the surface finish is rather pered steel, inserting the jewels in the bridge was coarse (as opposed to flat and polished) and the side tricky. Using the normal rule of a hole that is 0.01mm of the jewel is also coarse, the fit will not be as se- smaller than the jewel that will friction fit into it will cure and long-lasting, especially if you need to take not work. It will crack the jewel and damage the hole the jewel in and out of the hole many times. A coarse when attempting to fit it. If, on the other hand, the finish will wear out and compress the material more, hole is too big for the jewel (but still friction fit), say, making the hole larger than a flat, polished surface. less than 0.0025mm friction fit, the jewel may be Also, having a flat surface gives the jewel a bigger loose or can only be pushed in and out a few times surface to hold on to, securing the fit even better. before it becomes loose. Kaj got a good fit with what Because of the design of the tourbillon, the lower he estimates being around 0.003-0.0045mm friction jewel for the escape pinion needed to be on a lower fit. Having a hole that is more than 0.005mm small- level than that of the pallet fork, which has its jewel er will probably crack the jewel and damage the hole, fitted directly in the lower cage. This is because the depending on what type of steel and to what temper escape pinion has to engage with the fixed fourth it was prepared after the hardening. wheel, which is under the cage, Figure 2. To solve You can measure the size of the hole accurately this problem, Kaj decided to make a friction-fit with pivot gages in increments of 0.001mm. Howev- tube, also made from hardened and tempered steel. er, this would be extremely expensive since there are The lower shoulder of this tube carries the jewel, 1,000 pivot gages in one millimeter if you have incre- and the upper part with a shoulder is friction fit in ments of 0.001mm. You could easily make pivot gages the lower cage. Kaj made the tube entirely with the for special occasions fairly quickly by turning a piece Schaublin 102 lathe by first turning the outside di- of blue steel and measuring the diameter with a very ameters, drilling an undersized central hole for the accurate micrometer. This is more economical, and jewel, which would later be adjusted to the jewel making them in increments of quarter of hundredths with reamers. To position the jewel hole in the cen- of a millimeter should be sufficiently accurate to esti- ter of the tube, you must turn the outside diameters mate hole sizes for most watchmaking jobs. and drill the hole without taking the piece out of the When fitting jewels to hardened and tempered lathe. Then mill the side opening. Insert the piece in steel bridges, consider the surface finish on the in- a collet of the lathe, holding it on the turned body,

Horological Times 25 Technical Discussion: Making a Watch from Conception to Finished Product with Kaj Korpela, Part Six

and then drill the large hole to take the escape pin- the hole to take the friction fit tube, simultaneously ion, Figure 17. rectifying the pilot hole that was previously drilled in the M1. When the lower cage hole was made concentric and to correct size, he screwed on the upper cage onto the lower cage without removing the setting to preserve the concentricity. He bored out the pilot hole to the correct size for the upper tube. Now it was ready for assembly and testing, Figures 18-19.

Figure 17. Parting of the milled, drilled, and turned steel tube for the escape pinion.

The holes for the shock absorbers and lower tourbillon pinion and upper tourbillon pivot had to be perfectly concentric with the cage in order not to turn eccentrically. The tourbillon pinion was already Figure 18. Assembled prototype tourbillon cage made concentric with its pivot and friction fit shoul- with pallet fork and escape wheel. der. Kaj turned the upper cage pivot concentric in the 102. He also turned two shouldered tubes con- centrically, which served as settings for the shock absorbers and the pinion and pivot. However, this does not mean that the holes in the cage are in the center; fitting the parts in those holes could put the upper and lower pivots off-center. To have them Figure 19. Cage seen from the side. perfectly superimposed on one another, which is very important in a tourbillon because of space con- References: Korpela, Kaj: interviews on how to make parts of his watch. Figures: 1-19 straints, he turned a brass setting concentric, with Bibliography: Daniels, George. Watchmaking (2002), 285-318. no play for the lower cage. Then, without removing

the setting in the lathe, he fixed the lower cage in Henrik Korpela is a watchmaker living in Switzerland and the principal of Korpela and Hofs Watchmaking the setting, securing it with glue, and bored open Competence Centre.

26 June 2017 SERVICING THE AGING MODERN FLOOR CLOCK IN THE HOME Taught by Michael Gainey, CC21 NAWCC National Convention at the Sheraton Arlington Hotel, Arlington, Texas

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COURSE DESCRIPTION Making house calls on floor clocks is a very important addition to any repair shop’s bottom line. Learn how Mr. Gainey has made this the most profitable day of his week. This three-day class focuses on repairs to the modern floor clock movement that can be completed in the home, as well as determining when the clock needs to go to the shop. We will be examining, through a series of photographs, the most common problems encountered when repairing the aging modern floor clock movement and how to correct them. We will also perform hands-on repairs and adjustments to the modern Hermle clock movement. Through the use of 100s of tips and techniques, Michael will share the wisdom and knowledge he has obtained over the course of 39 years and over 20,000 house calls that enable him to troubleshoot almost any mechanical problem in a matter of minutes. A partial list of topics to be discussed include; different house call approaches, scheduling, pricing, guarantees, worn-out movements, movement replacements vs. movement restorations, basic escapement adjusting, clock parts nomenclature, maintenance intervals, the house call tool box, problems specific to certain movement types, troubleshooting, and general tips and time savers.

FOLLOW MICHAEL GAINEY ON FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/masterclockrepair Industry NEWS Baselworld 2017 By Aaron Recksiek, CW21

aselworld is always guaranteed to be a spectacle specifically to millennials, as they will be a key de- Bof what the watch industry most wants to show- mographic in the years to come. Of course, it wasn’t case for the year. It can be incredibly difficult to sift all budget cuts. There were still a few “mechanical through all the announcements, news, and events to marvel” masterpieces announced that are only attain- determine what is relevant to our segment of the in- able by the super rich, like the Loving Butterfly Au- dustry, specifically, the after-sales service industry. tomaton by Jaquet Droz and the Opera by Jacob & After reviewing much of the information available, Co with a 120-note customizable, mechanical music here is my take on the most relevant bits from the movement. annual event, now in its 100th year. Collectors are having a much greater effect on The Swiss watch industry is in decline, with the models that brands choose to produce. For exam- luxury segment of the industry taking the biggest ple, Longines released a new watch called the Heri- hit. There have been two straight years of negative tage 1945, modeled after a personal watch owned by growth, and forecasters are predicting the decline to HODINKEE founder Benjamin Clymer. Longines last another year or longer. Quite a few Swiss watch re-engineered the 70+-year-old watch to look precisely brands are now embracing smartwatch- as Clymer’s looked, even down to the es, a technology that was once color of the aftermarket strap he feared or discounted by many had attached. of them, with nearly ev- Vintage-inspired watches ery major brand offering were a common theme smart technology some- at the show, another where in their product sign of collector in- line. The most notable fluence. Watch jour- Swiss brands to de- nalist Carol Besler but smartwatches were dubbed them "nou- Movado, Montblanc, velle vintage." The and Tag Heuer with term refers to the their second smart- trend among luxury watch, the Connected watchmakers to com- Modular 45. bine iconic vintage de- T . u g d in There was a noticeable o tl sign with state-of-the-art r i M re T push by brands to create more 5 B materials and movements. 8 th 13 i value for their timepieces. For m w Omega released three new o n ve tio m ora example, employing stainless steel ent lab models, the 1957 Trilogy 60th An- , deve n col where precious metals would normally be loped i niversary Limited Editions, all inspired used, or for some brands, just lowering Photo courtesy of Tudor. by their predecessor models. Omega the retail price of existing models. Some brands were had a busy 1957 by releasing three new watch mod- even suspected of developing certain models to cater els in the same year. The vintage-inspired Trilogy

28 June 2017 reproductions: Seamaster 300, Railmaster, and Speed- mechanical wristwatch capable of measuring altitude master are all available separately but come with some accurately up to 9,000 meters. The highest point on bonus accessories if you buy the complete set. earth is Mount Everest at 8,848 meters. Seiko launched a re-creation of their first dive Zenith updated their iconic El Primero chrono- watch, the reference 6217, an almost-exact duplicate graph movement for the 21st century with the intro- of the original model. This new version comes with a duction of the El Primero 21. This new movement high-grade automatic 8L35 movement supplied by sis- is capable of measuring fractions of seconds as the ter company Grand Seiko, and a super-hard coating on central chronograph hand completes one revolution the stainless-steel case to better protect from scratches. per second. It does this with the use of two separate Rolex is continuing to integrate their newest escapements and oscillators equipped with patented men’s caliber 3235 into several new models: a new Carbon-Matrix Carbon Nanotube balance springs. Sea-Dweller reference 126600, widely expanding the One escapement runs at 36,000 vibrations per hour movement’s production. They also debuted a Cellini (vph) and the other at 360,000 vph. The dial also Moonphase model. It’s the first time the brand has shows a chronograph power reserve indicator, as the used the complication since the 1950s. Rolex subsid- extremely high-beat chronograph can only run for up iary, Tudor, announced a new in-house chronograph to 50 minutes on a full wind. movement, the MT5813, developed in collaboration And, finally, shortly after the show ended or- with Breitling. Tudor will also be manufacturing and ganizers announced that next year’s fair will shrink supplying an in-house movement to Breitling to be from eight days down to six. It’s suspected that this used in their Heritage Superocean models with an au- comes from a 13% decline in exhibitors and a 4% tomatic caliber MT5613. drop in buyers. There was news that show organizers Bulgari set a new world record for producing turned away some exhibitors due to not meeting the the world’s thinnest automatic winding watch. The show’s desired “quality standards.” The 2018 edition Octo Finissimo Automatique houses a 2.23mm thick of Baselworld will be held March 22–27. caliber BVL 138 in a distinctly Italian-designed, sand- www.baselworld.com blasted titanium case. www.nytimes.com/2017/03/29/fashion/baselworld-luxury-watches-timepieces.html Favre-Leuba, a small brand known for tool www.ablogtowatch.com/top-10-watches-baselworld-2017 www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/overheard-at-baselworld-5-watch-execs-sound-off watches, introduced the Bivouac 9000, the first www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/baselworld-fair-will-shrink-next-year www.cnn.com/2017/03/29/luxury/baselworld-2017-watch-highlights

Breitling Sold to Investment Firm By Aaron Recksiek, CW21

t has long been rumored that luxury Swiss watch CVC Capital Partners is a private equity invest- Imanufacturer Breitling SA was looking for a po- ment firm that manages over $52 billion worth of tential buyer. On April 28, Bloomberg broke the news assets between nearly 50 different companies. The with the details of an agreement between owner and most recognizable US companies in its portfolio are CEO, Théodore Schneider, and London-based CVC pet supplies and services retailer, Petco, and member- Capital Partners to sell the private equity group an ship-only warehouse club chain, BJ’s Wholesale Club. 80% stake in the company. The Schneider family will When news first came out that the brand was retain a 20% stake. Financial terms of the buyout considering a sale, it was reported that Breitling was were kept private, but unnamed sources say the deal likely to be sold to a luxury-goods company. Howev- values the brand at over $870 million and is set to be er, CVC does not seem to have any ownership stake finalized in June. in the watch or jewelry industry. In a press release

Horological Times 29 Industry News

issued by CVC, Théodore Schneider said, “I am con- Willy was serious ill, and the Swiss watch industry vinced CVC is the right partner to elevate Breitling was in the midst of a complete re-invention. By 1978, to the next level. CVC’s expertise, track record, and Breitling had completely suspended all operations. international network will help unlock Breitling’s full The actions and vision of Schneider, an amateur pilot potential.” It is speculated that CVC will use its in- and CEO of Sicura watches, kept Breitling from be- ternational business network to bolster demand for coming another casualty of the quartz crisis. From its Breitling’s watches in the Chinese market, a region founding in 1884 until now, Breitling was one of the where sales for the brand had been dwindling lately. last major watch brands to maintain its independence. Théodore’s father, Ernest Schneider, purchased www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-04-28/travolta-s-watchmaker-breitling-said-close-to-being-sold-to-cvc www.watchtime.com/featured/flying-turbulence-history-breitling-2/ Breitling in 1979 from Willy Breitling, grandson of www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2016-11-29/swiss-watchmaker-breitling-said-to-be-considering-a-sale the brand’s founder, Leon Breitling. In the late 1970s,

Special Exhibit at the NAWCC Museum Featuring Atom Moore’s Watch Portraits By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 he National Watch & Clock Museum in Colum- Tbia, Pennsylvania, is hosting a special exhibit dedicated to the art of watch photography titled “Watch Portraits.” The photographs are a compilation of the work of Atom Moore, a noted New York City watch photographer prominent on social media, and often affiliated with collector groups such as RedBar. Atom Moore is also the lead photographer and art director for Analog/Shift, an online vintage-watch retailer. Most of Moore’s work at the exhibit focuses on two main artistic techniques, macro photography and the uniquely appealing “mashups.” A mashup is when certain details from multiple watch images are put into a single composite image to create a collage, or details of a watch are repeated and/or modified to create an entirely different look to the timepiece. Atom Moore is no stranger to art shows. He has done several exhibitions around the world, most notably a collaboration with Tudor for the Heritage For this mashup, Moore removed the numbers from Black Bay Exhibition in Hong Kong. Tudor com- a vintage Omega military watch and took the arrows from five different military watches and placed them missioned Moore to create a series of portraits using all over the dial. The original broad arrow still remains his signature mashup art style with several popular in its original position. models. Moore has also done art exhibitions around Photo by Atom Moore. New York, lectured at the Horological Society of New the many interesting facets of horology, and Atom’s York, and been profiled by the New York Times. work brings to life the amazing detail found in the Museum Director Noel Poirier said, “The mu- skill of watchmaking. We are honored to be able to seum is always seeking special exhibits that explore exhibit Atom’s work and provide our visitors with an

30 June 2017 opportunity to discover Atom’s unique perspective Portraits, which features 38 pages of his macro and on horology.” mashup photography. The exhibit opened April 30, 2017, and is sched- Instagram: @atommoore www.atommoore.com uled to run through December 31, 2017. Some prints www.nawcc.org/index.php/museum of Moore’s work are also available for purchase at the www.quillandpad.com/2017/04/26/photographer-atom-moore-exhibits-unique-funky-watch-portraits-nawcc- watch-clock-museum NAWCC store in the lobby of the museum. Moore www.igafencu.com/r/atom-moore-shares-insight-collaboration-tudor also sells a 12" x 12" coffee-table book titled Watch

In Summary By Aaron Recksiek, CW21

Niall Hires New CEO could be confused with the previously registered Apple report what they thought were the sounds of gunshots. trademark “Think Different.” Swatch and Apple have Gonzalez was apprehended in a parking garage a short Michael Wilson, founder of prominent Kansas City watch previously been at odds over trademark disputes. Notably, time later, but the other suspects got away after pointing a brand, Niall, has stepped down as CEO and appointed Swatch was accused of trying to use the phrase “One handgun at a security guard. It was not disclosed what was Mark Mazzarese in his place. The change comes amid an More Thing” made famous by Steve Jobs during product taken in the robbery. Metro police are asking the public exponential growth period for Niall, having opened a retail release events. Also, the iWatch, the original name Apple for any information on this crime. Contact them at 702- store, gone from 2 to 12 employees, and increased revenue attempted to register for the eventual Apple Watch, 828-3591. If you would like to remain anonymous, contact by 400%—all since September of last year. Mazzarese was was accused of being too close to the already registered Crime Stoppers at 702-385-5555. previously the president of family-owned jewelry and watch iSwatch. retailer Mazzarese Jewelry in Leawood, Kansas, a suburb of https://lasvegassun.com/news/2017/mar/27/vegas-police-1- Kansas City. “My skill set thrives in creative, engineering, www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/apple-goes-after-swatch- held-others-sought-in-bellagio-stor/ solving problems, and designing,” said Wilson. He explained tick-different-slogan/ www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/bizarre-pig-mask-robbery- that he needed “to find someone to run and operate at a level hits-bellagio/ that may take me decades to acquire on my own.” Wilson has taken the role as chief technology officer and will focus Learn Watch Basics with New Watchmaking mainly on product design and supply chain management. Wilson made a point to assure the watch community that App he is still as focused on Niall remaining and expanding as The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) has released an American watch manufacturer and will never outsource a new smartphone and tablet application to train and manufacturing to Asia. teach the basics of fine-watchmaking knowledge. The www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/niall-names-new-ceo/ app titled “Watch Essentials” serves as a supplement www.startlandnews.com/2017/05/read-thought-process-behind- to the many courses the FHH offers to companies and of-how-niall-founder-michael-wilson-relinquished-reins-as-ceo/ individuals through the HH Academy and helps prepare them for the HH Certification exam. The content consists of activities, quizzes, videos, and minigames broken down Quick Turnaround at Zenith CEO Position into 47 stages split between nine main themes. Each It took less than four months for Jean-Claude Biver, Head completed theme earns the user a component to build a of Watchmaking at LVMH, to find a replacement CEO for virtual watch. The content covered includes subjects such the Zenith watch brand. Biver took over as interim CEO as nomenclature, the history of time measurement, watch of Zenith after Aldo Magada resigned in January. Julien functionality, and brand knowledge. The first 1,000 people Tornare was named as the new CEO on April 19. Tornare to complete all the levels of the app before June 30, 2017 was previously with rival luxury conglomerate Richemont, An armed robber in a pig mask stands will be given the opportunity to take the HH Certification most recently as the Managing Director for Asia-Pacific for outside the Tesorini store in the Bellagio. exam free of charge. The goal of the app is to foster an (Photo taken by @0pp1las Twitter.) the Vacheron Constantin brand. Tornare will continue to appreciation and gain exposure of fine watchmaking “for work closely with Biver to lead Zenith in a new direction, an audience that uses mobile devices to learn without as they try to turn around declining profits the brand has Bellagio Jewelry Store Robbed limitations of time or place.” The app is available in the experienced over the last three years. Tesorini, a high-end jewelry store and official Rolex dealer Apple and Google Play stores. located inside the Bellagio resort and casino in Las Vegas, www.hhcertification.org/en/app-2/ www.ablogtowatch.com/julien-tornare-ceo-zenith-watches/ was robbed in the early morning hours of March 25. The robbery was believed to be carried out by Sebastian https://journal.hautehorlogerie.org/en/fhh-launches-watch- Apple vs. Swatch Back in Trademark Court Gonzalez, who was reportedly wearing a pig mask at essentials-its-first-training-app/ Apple has filed a lawsuit in the Swiss federal administrative the time of the robbery. It is alleged that Gonzalez was court against Swatch for a trademark dispute. Swatch accompanied by at least three other suspects, one wearing included the phrase “Tick Different” on some versions of a cat mask and another wearing a panda mask. The suspects smashed through the glass windows of the store Aaron Recksiek is an independent watchmaker in Salt Lake City, the new Bellamy line of NFC technology electronic wallet Utah. He is a graduate of the 2008 WOSTEP class at the Lititz and display cases with sledgehammers, causing people to watches. Apple claims that the tagline is too close to and Watch Technicum.

Horological Times 31 AWCI News: A Night at the Museum A NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM

By Donna Hardy On Saturday, April 22, AWCI hosted a sold-out event Venus 175, Landeron 48, DP modular systems, and at headquarters in Harrison, Ohio. “A Night at the Lemania 1873. Those calibers were on-hand for dis- Museum” offered a look at several chronographs and cussion and comparison. Schloemer says, “I wanted a tour of the museum. Because of the success that to highlight the higher-grade mechanisms and which the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) has brands used them—vintage and modern. We had a had with its classes, AWCI decided to try a similar few collectors and investors in the group, so emphasis program for local collectors and others interested in was placed on identifying more sought-after calibers learning more about horology. The audience included within brand offerings.” trained watchmakers as well as collectors. Schloemer also covered watches that are worn Guests enjoyed a Powerpoint presentation with quite frequently as opposed to collectibles and invest- some historical facts and a timeline of the chrono- ment pieces. He stressed accessibility to expedient graph’s development. Richter & Phillips Co., a jew- service, service intervals, and reliability. Schloemer elry store in Cincinnati, sponsored the event. Rich- says, “Long-term value can vary greatly from the cal- ter & Phillips’ watchmaker, Matt Schloemer, CW21, ibers mentioned earlier to the work-a-day daily wear- took care of the hands-on part of the event, covering ers, so I made many distinctions between investment integrated, semi-integrated, and modular chrono- quality timepieces and general brand offerings.” graph mechanisms. Including the ETA/Valjoux 7750, The evening concluded with socializing over cocktails and hors d’oeurves. Jordan Ficklin says, “This event was more than an opportunity to entertain local watch enthu- siasts. It was an opportunity to measure the interest in these programs and the potential for a new revenue stream for AWCI, which may help us stay the losses in dues revenue.” AWCI plans to have more events like this in the future, which will probably be more hands-on.

Donna Hardy is the managing editor In addition to learning about chronographs, attendees got a tour of of the Horological Times. the building and the Orville R. Hagans History of Time Museum.

32 June 2017 HOROLOGY IN THE MEDIA: S-TOWN PODCAST REVIEW By Aaron Recksiek, CW21

odcasts are downloadable digital media files that have largely replaced listening to live radio or tuning in to a P Brian Reed interviewing a syndicated radio program at a specific time. The new S-Town clock collector for S-Town. podcast, about the events and people surrounding the life of Photo by Andrea Morales John B. McLemore, broke a record with over 16 million down- not uncommon for me to get a call from media out- loads in the first week. All seven chapters were available for lets looking for statistics or facts related to the horo- listening on the March 28 release date, a deviation from the logical industries. Sometimes they want specific in- normal distribution where a single episode is uploaded and formation about an individual about whom they are available once a week. It was produced by the nationally syndi- writing a feature. As a fan of This American Life, I was cated This American Life radio program and received contri- more excited than usual for this exposure. I quickly butions from many of the same people who produced the most realized this was not your usual story about a clock- popular podcast of all time, Serial. maker, but I was unaware of the twists and turns of Why is any of this relevant to us or our industry? John the story until the podcast was released. I confirmed B. McLemore is an eccentric clockmaker in rural Woodstock, that John McLemore was a member of AWCI from Alabama. Not just any clockmaker, McLemore is described 1994 to 1999. We talked about what it means to be on the show as an extremely talented “antiquarian horologist,” an antiquarian horologist. I gave feedback about the or someone who is an expert at restoring and maintaining an- plausibility of some of his claims and left the rest up tique and historical timepieces. to the wordsmiths and storytellers. Considering the The story began when McLemore contacted the radio pro- overall goal of the podcast is to entertain, I think the gram This American Life to help him expose a crime he be- editorial team did a pretty good job of presenting a lieved had been committed in his town but was being covered realistic representation of what was obviously an ec- up by a wealthy local family. Brian Reed, the host of the series centric clockmaker. and a producer for This American Life, took on this project To listen, download or stream it directly from their website three years ago. or any podcast access program. The podcast is marked as ex- The series was marketed as a “true crime” story and it cer- plicit and includes some adult content and language that might tainly starts out that way, but it quickly evolves into a compel- be offensive to some. As you quickly find out, S-Town is an ling documentary with all kinds of twists and turns riddled abbreviation of a word they didn’t want to use in the title. With with interesting information. Telling the story of the events that in mind, I still think it’s worth listening to. It’s great for our surrounding John B. McLemore includes some technical in- industry to get a little exposure to the general public. Perhaps formation related to clock repair, some interviews with promi- some of your customers have listened to the podcast and may nent clock collectors, and concludes with an important lesson ask you questions about horology. Who knows, with an indus- that is relevant to anyone who has restored antique clocks. try as small as ours, you might even know someone they talk AWCI’s executive director, Jordan Ficklin, was consulted about or interview. by the podcast’s fact checker, Benjamin Phelan. Ficklin says— https://stownpodcast.org/ www.theguardian.com/tv-and-radio/2017/apr/09/s-town-serial-podcast-brian-reed-interview I was approached in January to confirm the validity

of some assertions made relative to clock repair. It is Aaron Recksiek is an independent watchmaker in Salt Lake City, Utah. He is a graduate of the 2008 WOSTEP class at the Lititz Watch Technicum.

Horological Times 33 WATCH C RYSTALS AND S UPPLIES

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34 June 2017 Column: From the Workshop From the Workshop By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI

GREINER IN LANGENTHAL Fig. 3 Last year during Baselworld, Michael Klafiger invited me to visit the Greiner facility in Langenthal, Switzerland. I contacted Michael before leaving for Switzerland to confirm the visit, and we agreed to meet Monday morning at the factory, which is in the older part of downtown Langenthal. The day before Upon my arrival, Michael greeted me and took our meeting, I drove from my hotel to Langenthal me into the break room for coffee and introduced to make certain I could find my way through this me to several employees. During my five-hour visit, old Swiss town with its curved, narrow cobblestone I was taken to every department in the factory while streets, many of which are for pedestrians only, and Michael and other staff members patiently answered all of which have almost no parking spots, Figure 1. every question I asked as they explained to me what Michael saved a parking spot for me at the factory so Greiner really does there. Fig. 4 all I had to do was drive there. On the way, I crossed a I had a preconceived no- covered bridge built in 1863, Figure 2. I was surprised tion that Greiner primarily there was neither a reduced speed limit nor a weight produced and sold cleaning restriction for this old wooden bridge. A similar-sized machines, Figure 3, and covered bridge in New Hampshire has a 15 MPH limit testing equipment, Figure and only one car at a time is permitted on the bridge. 4, to watchmakers, but I Fig. 1 quickly learned they also supply machinery and spe- cialized services to watch manufacturers. In addition to the Langenthal factory, Greiner has another one in Pforzheim, Germany. For watchmakers, who are their end consumers, Greiner manufac- tures and distributes cleaning machines and testing equipment. Those are the Fig. 2 Greiner products familiar to most watchmakers. Additionally, Greiner has recently partnered with Wellner of Germany to work jointly on the Wellner L1 cleaner, Figure 5, which Greiner will be distributing Fig. 5

Horological Times 35 Column: From the Workshop

in the Swiss market. Many of the employees I met at In addition to these services, they also manufac- Greiner are both highly skilled watchmakers and ma- ture the precision tooling for their own equipment. It chinists. This factory has numerous precision lathes, reminded me of the American Waltham Watch Com- milling machines, etc., Figure 6, and many of their em- pany which, at one time, manufactured the machines ployees can oper- they used to make their watches. Waltham had then, ate most, or all, of as Greiner has now, the skilled staff and resources to the machinery in make their own equipment in-house. Highly skilled that facility. Each employees such as those working at Greiner are a very of these people important asset to this company. can readily move As I toured the venerable historic building that from work station houses Greiner, I noticed the post and beam con- to work station, Fig. 6 struction, supporting the roof, which was visible in which gives Greiner a high level of flexibility to meet the top floor. That sturdy framework exemplified the any change in production requirements. Also because sturdy structure of the Greiner Company itself. The of the staff’s high skill level, they have a measure of job company nor the building are overly ostentatious, but security unmatched in the industry during any busi- both display strength and longevity. ness downturn. Finally, Michael showed me the collection of The commercial side of their business special- Greiner artifacts that will eventually be assembled izes in the manufacture of precision mechanical into a company museum, Figure 8. The company oscillators, Figure 7, that we watchmakers call bal- is amassing many of the items they manufactured ance completes. For clients who produce a large from their earliest days right through to the current- number of mechanical movements, Greiner can sup- production items. The size of the collection is ply the equipment for those clients to vibrate and impressive, and Michael and his colleagues have poise their own balances. For clients whose lower a formidable task ahead of them to assemble and production levels preclude the purchase of that ma- organize such a collection. At the end of my visit I had chinery, Greiner can produce a wide variety of com- a far greater appreciation of Greiner, its products, and plete balances to satisfy the timing requirements its long history. My thanks to Michael for facilitating for any movement manufacturer. Those services in- this visit.

clude colleting and vibrating hairsprings, poising the balance, and even precision cutting the hairsprings to the theoretical correct number of turns for maximum levels of isochronism. Those balances can be made to any quality level needed by the client, from a basic standard-grade to the highest precision

COSC level. Fig. 7 Fig. 8

36 June 2017 BASELWORLD 2017 This year attendance barely reached 106,000 visitors, significantly less than the 150,000+ that What has been reported in the press as the fourth visited in 2013. Even more telling was the 13% annual decline in Baselworld attendance was visibly drop in the number of exhibitors from 2016. Not apparent to me as I looked around on Sunday only did watch companies desert Baselworld, many morning. In past years, weekends were usually the of the allied industries were gone. When I first busiest days at Baselworld with visitors crowding attended Baselworld in 1994, those allied industries aisles and lobby spaces all day long. In Building occupied an entire building. On display were all 1, where the largest and most prestigious watch kinds of operating CNC machines fabricating watch companies have their booths, one would need to parts and watch cases. There was a vast amount of line up to take the escalator to the next floor. Not machinery for jewelry manufacturers and watch so this year. The crowds were visibly smaller and manufacturers. Vendors from all over Europe were there was no waiting for the escalator. I then visited selling watchmaking supplies, tools, and equipment Building 2 where many of the smaller companies of interest to material dealers from all over the world. have their displays and saw mostly empty corridors, In the past 23 years, the allied industry portion of Figure 9, with more sales staff at the various Baselworld has gradually downsized to a shadow of booths than customers. In many cases, the sales its former self. This year it occupied a small portion staff were speaking with each other, checking their of one floor in Building 2. From what I heard, it will smartphones, and seemingly stunned by the lack of be much smaller next year. Missing this year were visitors as they visually searched their locales for any long-term exhibitors that included Roxer, Horia, AF, potential customers, Figure 10. Grobet, and Hormec, to name just a few. During numerous private conversations, many exhibitors told me they were going to evaluate Baselworld’s value to their businesses and then make a decision regarding their plans for future trade shows. There are other trade shows, both in and out of Switzerland, where these exhibitors perceive they get a far larger bang for their franc or euro. One problem I saw for the allied industries is the dearth Fig. 9 of qualified buyers for their products at Baselworld. Although 106,000 visited the exhibition, only a miniscule percentage of those visitors were actual or potential clients of the allied industries, Figure 11. There were far more buyers of watches and jewelry than there were for tools and machinery. Another consequence of Baselworld’s attendance decline reaches out to the city of Basel and its environs. Many restaurants, hotels, and shops have Fig. 10 grown to depend upon the surge of business brought

Horological Times 37 Column: From the Workshop

to Basel by the annual exhibition. With the attendance drop of 30% in four years, these associated businesses also see a matching decline in their business. They will see another decline next year now that Baselworld management has decided to shorten Baselworld 2018 from the customary eight-day exhibition to six days. Management rebuffed suggestions from the press and other interested parties to make Baselworld a biennial exhibition or to make it a concurrent exhibition with SIHH, which would reduce the travel expenses for visitors who could attend Fig. 11 both exhibitions during one Swiss visit. For now, it remains an annual event and one without any similar

concurrent competition. Jack Kurdzionak, watchmaker and watch material specialist, owned a Boston-area watch sales and service shop for 40 years. He has a BS (Northeastern University, 1967) and has studied at ETA, WOSTEP, BHI, SGUS, and AWCI, and works for Eckcells Watch Materials.

Having your CW21 Having my CW21 • Demonstrates your high level of expertise to will“ help me as I apply your customers. • Elevates your store above the competition. for parts accounts, • Gives your customers confidence in the superior service you provide. and it gives me an • Enhances the brands you carry and pro- advantage when motes both your reputation and integrity. I apply for jobs. Invest in yourself by taking your skills to ” the next level, and becoming a Certified Watchmaker (CW21). Call or email our Education & Certification Coordinator today for more information: [email protected] Michael Griner, CW21 Phone: 1-866-367-2924, ext 303

38 June 2017 YOU CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE www.awci.com/volunteer www.awci.com/volunteer

Committee Volunteer Form The President of AWCI appoints committee members. AWCI relies heavily on its committees to establish and implement goals for the year. If you have time and talent to spare, consider volunteering to serve. The committees listed below are those which are currently established in either the AWCI Constitution or Bylaws. Please indicate the committee(s) for which you are qualified in the order of preference. Please mark a number 1-11 in each box, with your desired choice(s). Please use #1 as your first choice, #2 as your second choice, and so on. Thank you!

Committees 4. Horological Times Committee 8. Marketing Committee 1. Constitution & Bylaws Committee 5. Education Committee 9. Honor Awards Committee 2. Finance Committee 6. Internet Forum Committee 10. Strategic Action Committee 3. Nominating Committee for AWCI Board 7. Convention Committee 11. Ethics Committee Your Information Name (required) Phone (Home) Membership Number Phone (Business) Address 1 Fax Address 2 E-mail City State (valid email required) Postal Code

Brief explanation of your qualifications to serve on committee(s) selected

Qualifications www.awci.com/ volunteer

Horological Times 39 Watchmaking Excellence: CW21 Standards STANDARDS FOR THE LOCATION AND APPEARANCE OF POISING MARKS ON MODERN BALANCE WHEELS

he poising of balance wheels is Ttypically performed at the factory. Re-poising of the balance wheel is often necessary when a balance staff is replaced or there are other  changes to components. The object of poising the balance wheel is to lo- cate the center of gravity at the center of the staff. This is accomplished by removing weight from locations at the greatest diameter until the weight is evenly distributed. Static poising is performed on a balance that is clean, A balance wheel with two small, neatly drilled holes. true in the round and flat, and with hairspring and collet removed. Fine adjustments weight should be removed from only one point can be made via dynamic poising with the bal- on the balance wheel. Any burrs raised during the ance installed in the watch. Care must be taken drilling operation should be removed. to ensure the hairspring is properly adjusted so as On modern balance wheels without screws, not to remove material from the balance wheel to weight is removed by drilling a hole in the under- compensate for errors in hairspring adjustment. side of the balance rim. This hole MUST NOT When poising a balance wheel (either statical- penetrate beyond either edge of the rim. ly or dynamically), it should be performed in a On modern free-sprung balance wheels with clean and neat fashion. As little weight as nec- regulating devices (Micro-Stella, Gyromax, etc.), essary should be removed; and when possible, care must be taken to insure the weights are dis-

40 June 2017 tributed evenly before undertaking poising. Some- times this is best accomplished by moving them to their extreme inner position. Regulating screws or  nuts should NOT be used for adjusting poise. If marks are made with ink to mark the location of the roller jewel or hairspring collet when replacing the staff, they must be removed before installing the balance in the watch. If ink is used to mark a spot, it must be removed.  

A drilled poising hole must not be so large that it penetrates beyond the perimeter of the wheel.

This balance has too many holes, and they are poorly  executed with raised burrs still on them. AWCI Board Meetings Are Open to All Members!

All members are invited to participate in the monthly conference calls of the Board of Directors. The meeting will be streamed live using the GoToWebinar format, which will allow all interested AWCI members to participate. To participate in the next meeting you will need to register at least 24 hours in advance. You will need to have your AWCI member number available. After you register, we will verify your membership. The morning of the call you Holes should be drilled on the underside of the will receive an email with instructions to join the call. balance rim, not on its perimeter. You will be able to listen to the entire meeting. At certain times during the meeting your feedback may be requested, and you will be able to briefly share your thoughts by using the "raise your hand" button in the platform. The experience will be very limited for individuals who call in on the phone without logging in on their computer.

Horological Times 41 AWCI Welcomes New Members

Amalia Aquino TX Stephen J. Kardel MA James Braun OH Matthew W. Moser RI Chris Bridges TX Kwame B. Ogbonna-Bey PA James Cooley KY Joshua Sabin Peno MA Jeffrey DaSilva RI Andrew Pham TX Placido De La Rosa Sr. AZ Jamilton Ramirez RI Evan Espy TX Sarkis M. Semerdjian CA James Fox MA Harold Skelton ME Daniel Fraga UT Trevor Matheu Steadman CO H. Marcelo Fraga UT Eugene Stohlman MD Roberto Fraga UT Rick Strickland NC Jorge J. Gandour LA Angul Suthirunggul CA Samuel Genson TX Aaron Taylor Singapore Adam Greubel TX Moises I. Veliz FL Aleksandra Halic TX Jonathan J. Vicchrilli UT Daniel Hudson TX Logan Wallace TX Adam Johnson TX Stephen J. Willes UT Ricardo Justo FL

In Memoriam

Robert B. Bradley IN Affiliate Chapter NEWS Facing Your Fears By Scott Walters, CW21

In early January, I received a call from the Horolog- As the time for the convention drew nearer, my ical Association of Virginia president, John Polk. He fears intensified. As I made the final preparations needed a speaker for the upcoming convention, and and packed up my tools, I really wondered why I had he reached out to me. I was in the midst of a back- been so foolish as to agree to this. While I drove from log of work, whilst preparing for the Omega Watch- Winston-Salem to Charlottesville, I had a couple of makers Exam (OWME). I was much honored that he quiet hours to think, as the countryside of Virginia would think of me in high enough regard to do a pre- went past my window. I realized that I was going to do sentation for the HAV annual convention, and I hast- this, pass or fail. I had to overcome the fear, no differ- ily agreed. As I returned to the projects ent than the CW21 exam or the OWME. If you do not at hand, I was thinking to myself WHAT When I arrived, John and his lovely DID I JUST DO?? I have always been face your fears, wife, Barbara, put me right at ease, in- petrified of speaking to any groups pub- you will not grow troducing me around at the registration lically, and certainly to people I’ve nev- personally or reception. I met quite a few people who er met. Now the worry and doubts set were looking forward to the class, mak- professionally. in, and I was already worried about the ing me more nervous. Needless to say, OWME, based on the reports of failure rates. even after a couple of beers, I had a fitful night’s sleep. I kicked around a couple of topics with John, and Then it was time to pack my gear and get into we settled on what I was going to present. I then spent the room and set up. When I got there, I was greeted the rest of the month and the early weeks of February by Stan Palen, whose expertise in computers and set- studying for the OMWE. After taking and passing ting up electrical was phenomenal, and I was ready in the OWME, I was able to focus more on the talks we about 20 minutes. John was constantly checking in on had planned. I dutifully prepared and sent drafts of me and making sure everything was going well. Just the presentation to John, and we talked a couple of before the seminar started, I stepped out for a breath times in March. of fresh air to calm my nerves. Heading into April I continued to develop and re- When I entered the room, donned my lab coat, fine my presentations. Having never done one, I con- looked out at the 20+ participants, my heart skipped tinued to turn to John for assistance and advice. He a beat. In the class were watchmakers that I had only was more than gracious in reviewing my presentation heard or read about, some I had never heard of, and and commenting on it. Of course, this did nothing one that I knew from my local guild, Charles Smith. to quell my fear of public speaking. As the count for And in the back was Fred White, the president of the class attendance rose, I also had the fear that my AWCI. Heart palpitations…. As I started to speak, I qualifications to speak on the subjects we decided on saw people interested in what I was saying and ex- were less than expected for a speaker. plaining. About half an hour into the first part of the

Horological Times 43 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter News

presentation, I was able to start to relax a little. This nine months I would be ready (caught up on work was going to be OK. As we finished the first hour with no looming tests) to be of service to the industry and went to a break, a couple of people let me know that gave me so much. how much they liked the presentation and how pro- In the evening was the banquet, award ceremo- fessionally done it seemed. What a relief! The attend- ny, and the auction. Next time, I’ll remember to sit ees were interested in the presentation, participated, in the rear of the room away from auctioneer Ronnie and asked questions. Spiggle and Wayne Simpson—another thing learned Time flew by and the first part was finished the hard way. quicker than I thought. At lunch, I had the pleasure The conference was rounded out by Michael of eating with Billy Best and Claudio Cur. We had a Gainey, CC21, with a presentation on knowing your great lunch and conversation, and then we were off worth. It was geared mostly toward independent to the second half of the presentation. It went well clockmakers, but had plenty of take home for this also. We did not quite get to cover everything I had retail watchmaker. planned, but we did a lot. Afterwards many attendees The bottom line is: If you do not face your fears, were most complimentary. Fred even asked if I was you will not grow personally or professionally. I made willing to do it again, if asked. Based on the time and many new friends, put faces to names of those I had effort in preparation for it, I thought it wasteful to heard or read about, passed along the knowledge I bury the efforts there and said yes. Perhaps in six to had, and learned in the process. I will return!

Scott Walters is a watchmaker in Winston-Salem, North Carolina.

“Columbia is home to one of the world’s only horology museums” - Smithsonian Magazine

The Smithsonian UPCOMING Magazine ranked CLASSES Columbia, PA, among the top 20 best small towns to Luxury or Lie: How to visit in the United States, Identify Genuine Watches in part, because of its Sept. 16-18, 2017 strength in history. Evaluating Time: Research, Identify, and Value Wrist The National Watch and Pocket Watches & Clock Museum in Oct. 28-30, 2017 Columbia includes 19th-century American Contact the Education Department at 717.684.8261, ext. 237 clocks and watches and or [email protected]. timekeepers from around Check out www.museumoftime.org the world. for more info.

44 June 2017 Horological Society of New York The highlight of the evening was the special (HSNY) fundraising auction organized by HSNY Vice Pres- The following information was obtained from The Horologist’s Loupe, submitted by Walter Pangretitsch, ident Michael Fossner and HSNY sponsor Heri- Recording Secretary, HSNY, Copyright©2017. Published by the Horological Society of New York, Inc.; All rights reserved. tage Auctions. The auction was called by Nicholas Glashütte–130 Years of Marine Chronometers Dawes of PBS’ Antiques Roadshow fame. The auction from Saxony featured four vintage timepieces from Audemars For the May meeting, HSNY welcomed a special Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Cartier, as well as a vin- guest from Germany, Ulrike Kranz, head of corpo- tage HSNY lapel pin. Over $30,000 was raised for rate communications for Glashütte Original. Kranz HSNY’s endowment fund. lectured on the history of the German marine chronometer. In addition to the evening lecture, a selec- Traveling Education Classes Held in tion of historic timepieces from the German Watch Washington, D.C. and Boston Museum were on display. Previously, Kranz worked For the last two weekends in April, HSNY contin- at the German Watch Museum in Glashütte. ued its 2017 traveling education tour by visiting two In 1886 the first marine chronometers from often-requested cities. Horological education classes Glashütte were sent to the German Naval Observa- were offered in Washington, D.C. over the weekend tory in Hamburg for testing. In the following years, of April 22–23. The next weekend of April 29–30, numerous innovations and technical improvements HSNY headed to Boston. The hands-on courses brought international attention to marine chronom- were taught by HSNY’s staff of professional watch- eters manufactured in Glashütte. makers. Students worked on a mechanical watch Although today navigation at sea is performed movement. They studied the gear train, winding and around the world using GPS, Glashütte in Saxony setting mechanisms, and escapement. The four-hour remains a significant location for the production of course covered everything taught during HSNY’s marine chronometers and observation watches. Fol- individual courses held in New York City. lowing the reunification of Germany, the Glashütte astronomical observatory was restored. Today it HSNY OFFICERS houses a chronometer testing facility, which also of- President: Nicholas Manousos; Vice President: Michael Fossner; Recording Secretary: Walter Pangretitsch; ficially certifies the chronometers made by Glashütte Treasurer: Charles S. Salomon Original. Capital Area Watchmaker and HSNY 2017 Annual Gala and Charity Auction Clockmaker Guild (CAWCG) Central Texas Affiliate Chapter—American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), www.cawcg.org HSNY’s 2017 Gala was held on April 3 at the Gen- eral Society Library. Members enjoyed food and Rob Putney presented “Quartz Watch Diagnosis, drinks, and the event culminated in an award cere- Troubleshooting and Testing” at the April meeting. mony and charity auction. The first Henry B. Fried He covered basic steps, low cost testers and methods, Scholarship was awarded by Steve Eagle, HSNY Di- and state of the art systems. At the March meeting rector of Education, to Justin Shellenberger, a first- Michael Webb gave an informative program on year watchmaking student at the Lititz Watch Tech- depthing tools and showed his collection of tools. nicum in Pennsylvania. By the time the meeting was over the majority of

Horological Times 45 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter News

the members were ready to borrow all of the cool un Jul depthing tools on display. The history of how the tool rs en t A was invented and the different styles of manufacturer Autin strts t A provided excellent training data for the club. AUCTION Save these 2017 Dates WATCHMAKERS AND CLOCKMAKERS June 15–Chapter 15 Meeting, Saturday, 10:00 a.m.–12:00 For additional information p.m., Pok-e-Jos, Austin, Texas Sponsored by the GTWG contact: June 27–CAWCG Meeting, Tuesday, 6:00–8:00 p.m., Rick Dunnuck Sanctioned by the NCWA Pok-e-Jos, Austin, Texas 336-404-0524 [email protected] Program Speakers for 2017 Scott Lemons Same Location as November 336-299-6934 June–Letter* • July–Glen Morehead • August–Auction [email protected] September–Letter* • October–Pat Holloway $5.00 COVER CHARGE November–John Hagan • December–Christmas Party 15 SELLER’S FEE *Bring a horological item beginning with a predetermined letter of the alphabet. All sales final Convenient Loading and CAWCG Board Members Unloading Air conditioned Embassy Suites Hotel President: Glen Morehead, Email: [email protected] Bring what you want to sell 204 Centreport Drive Vice-President: Rob Putney, Email: [email protected] Come to buy what you need Treasurer: Hugh Lindsay, Email: [email protected] Greensboro NC 27409 Secretary: Jay Holloway, Email: [email protected]

Do you enjoy spending time with other watchmakers and clockmakers? Join Your Local Affiliate Chapter for more information log on to awci.com/about-us/affiliate-chapters Florida Indiana Minnesota New York Ohio Texas LWT Alumni Florida Watch & Indianapolis Horologi- Minnesota Clockmakers Horological Society of Watchmakers/ Capital Area Watch & Association Clockmakers cal Association Guild New York Clockmakers Clockmakers Guild Association, Inc. Joseph M. Schrader, CMW21 Richard Zielike, President Ed Hydeman, President Association of Ohio Glen Morehead, President Aaron Recksiek, CW21, President Fabio Rodrigues, CW21 Lafayette, IN Dean Ziegenbein, Secretary New York, NY Michael Gainey, CC21 Jay Holloway, Secretary 801-580-7673 (C) President 765-742-8716 Apple Valley, MN [email protected] President Pflugerville, TX 786-344-2840 [email protected] 952-454-1247 www.hs-ny.org Columbus, OH 512-294-7371 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.lwtalumni.org Massachusetts New York State Watch- 614-833-0378 (B) www.cawcg.org Matt Hritz, CW21 Massachusetts Watch- Missouri makers Vice President makers- Clockmakers Association Mark A. Baker, CMW, CC21 International Rep Metro St. Louis Watch- Treasurer Virginia Sarasota, FL Association, Inc. makers/Clockmakers Dale LaDue, CMW21, Horological Association 941-993-0514 15852 ½ St. Rt. 62 of Virginia Christopher Carey Association West Henrietta, NY P.O. Box 292 [email protected] Newton, MA Judit Katona, Secretary 585-424-1493 Stan Palen 617-244-3779 Damascus, OH 44619 Richard LeBeau, CMW21 [email protected] 330-537-3939 (W) King George, VA [email protected] North Carolina 540-775-7027 Treasurer North Carolina Watch- [email protected] [email protected] Saint Petersburg, FL Minnesota New Jersey makers Association The Chronometer Club 727-347-3758 Midwest Watchmak- Watchmakers Associa- Pennsylvania http://havhome.org tion of New Jersey Mack R. Shuping, CW21, [email protected] ers- Clockmakers Treasurer Watchmakers Associa- Justin Shiver, CW21, President Richard Cuny, President tion of Pennsylvania Wisconsin Association Winston Salem, NC Wisconsin Fremont, CA Chris Wiles, CW21 Tom’s River, NJ George H. Jones Education Chairman Nick Pechman, CW21 336-287-8402 Horological Society 256-479-1741 (C) Minneapolis, MN 732-818-9460 336-768-1857 (fax) State College, PA 239-671-3203 (C) www.wanj.us 814-238-1668 (B & H) Jeff Bergey, CMW, President 612-801-2578 [email protected] Oregon, WI [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 608-835-3698 (W) [email protected] www.mwca.us 608-843-7153 (C) [email protected] www.thechronometerclub.org Classified Ads help wanted help wanted help wanted Workshop Manager Wanted BUSINESS FOR SALE Watchmaker Wanted Breitling USA Master Watchmaker Retiring Watch Doctor Inc. is seeking an experience Workshop Manager to be Upscale Watch Repair and Retail Sales Business Our company is looking to expand our watchmaking staff. responsible for the management and development of the Our shop produces top quality workmanship while dealing Established over 30 years ago on Hilton Head Island; company’s Wilton, CT service workshop. with high volumes and a wide range of services. 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Compensation will be Help Wanted ads at https://www.crownandcaliber.com/about/adding-value based upon qualification and experience. www.awci.com Contact: Nikki Davis Contact: Marcelo Fraga • Email: [email protected] click on Career Center. Email: [email protected] Phone: 801-879-8592 http://awci-jobs.careerwebsite.com Phone: 404-937-3653

Horological Times 47 Classified Ads for sale wanted to buy wanted to buy

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48 June 2017 Classified Ads tradespeople services

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Horological Times Advertising Policy & Editorial Policy Advertising Policy for the Horological Times for publication. The approval procedures are available from AWCI and at www.awci.com. The appearance, reference, The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the or advertisement of any product or service in this publication shall not be deemed an endorsement of such products, publisher’s standards. The publisher may, at the publisher’s sole discretion and for any reason and without notice, methods or services by AWCI, its directors, officers, or employees. decline to publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or Publisher’s Standards rebated to the advertiser. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or agency agree AWCI makes a concerted effort not to publish any advertisement which promotes or depicts practices not in harmony to assume liability for all content of advertisements printed. The advertiser will also accept responsibility for any with our professional Standards & Practices for Watchmakers & Clockmakers. The advertisement of generic parts, claims or suits arising therefrom brought against the publisher. Printed articles may also be used by the publisher tools, and materials is allowed when such advertisement does not possess any trademarked image, brand, or name. without permission expressly sought, or payment made, on www.awci.com, the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Advertisers can refer to the items by name, function, quality, size, and description. Genuine parts can be advertised as Facebook page, or via other media. such in accordance with the advertiser’s relationship and agreement with the manufacturer. Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited, but reflect the opinions of the authors only and do not We encourage advertisers to reach out to our members and market goods and services which will help them to represent the views of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), its directors, officers or employees. professionally service their clients and represent themselves in a way which will “reflect positively on him or her, on the AWCI reserves the right to edit all submitted materials and is under no obligation to accept any submitted materials AWCI, and the entire watch and clock repair industry, including all of its participants.” – AWCI Code of Ethics

Horological Times 49 awci directory ADVERTISERS’ INDEX BOARD OF DIRECTORS

AWCI Courses Officers Fellows 513-367-9800 7 Fred T. White, CMW21: President * Robert F. Bishop [email protected] * James H. Broughton British Horological Institute Fred S. Burckhardt bhi.co.uk 34 Joe Cerullo, CMW, CMC: Vice President [email protected] Alice B. Carpenter David A. Christianson Cas-Ker Co. Henry Kessler: Treasurer and IAB Director 1-800-487-0408 34 * George Daniels [email protected] Wes Door Clocks Magazine Aaron Recksiek, CW21: Secretary Jerry Faier clocksmagazine.com 44 [email protected] * Henry B. Fried * Josephine F. Hagans Eckcells Watch Materials and Tools Immediate Past President Manuel Yazijian, CMW21 * Orville R. Hagans 603-726-7646 19 * Ewell D. Hartman [email protected] * Harold J. Herman G-S Crystals Directors gssupplies.com 34 * J.M. Huckabee Sergio Berrios, CW21: Affiliate Chapter Director * Gerald G. Jaeger Jules Borel & Co. [email protected] Jack Kurdzionak 1-800-776-6858 ...inside front cover Joshua Kroman, CW21 * Benjamin Matz [email protected] * Robert A. Nelson NAWCC Peter Pronko, CW21 * Hamilton E. Pease nawcc.org 44 * Archie B. Perkins [email protected] Antoine Simonin Renata Craig Stone, CW21 800-527-0719 ...back cover * William O. Smith, Jr. [email protected] Milton C. Stevens Richemont Peter Whittle Dennis Warner richemont.com ...inside back cover [email protected] * Marvin E. Whitney Siriani *Deceased Siriani.com/awcifsp 15 American Watchmakers- Witschi Electronic Ltd. Clockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Dr. witschi.com 14 Harrison, OH 45030 Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI 513-367-9800 Fax: 513-367-1414 [email protected] • www.awci.com

WE THANK THE IAB AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the institute and the industry.

50 June 2017

Richemont owns several of the world’s leading luxury companies in the ﬁeld of luxury goods, with particular strengths in jewelry, luxury watches and other luxury accessories.

We are seeking talented and qualiﬁed Watchmakers to work for our brands located throughout the United States and Canada in our Boutiques and Service Centers.

Responsibilities

 Must be qualiﬁed to perform services which include Complete Maintenance and Quick Services on calibers that include o Quartz o Mechanical o Automatic o Chronograph o Complications  Diagnosis  Case Preparation  Achieve and maintain Production and Quality Objectives

Qualiﬁcations

 Accredited Certiﬁcation  Experience working with luxury brands preferred  Strong attention to detail, with the ability to handle multiple tasks  Ability to work in a fast-paced environment  Strong diagnostic skills  Good customer service and communication skills  Knowledge of SAP System would be a strong advantage

We offer competitive compensation, on-boarding program, benefits and relocation assistance. To be considered, please submit your resume and profile on www.Richemont.com or by fax to 817-283-2304. 0617 HT Black Trusted Star Time_OL.indd 1 4/25/17 12:41 PM