J . ST. 85 K . LS . LEXAND ER K . , , SIR JAMES E . A ,
F OR CE S I N CA N A D A H E C OM M A N D E R OF T H E O N T H E S TA F F OF B E T
I N T W O V OLU M E S . IL V OL .
L ON D ON
U , C O L B U R N . P B L I S H E R
C ONT ENTS
OF TH E
S E C O N D V O L U M E .
A CH PTER I .
’ An drews da at n s o —The e M acNab St . y Ki g t n Chi f — — Anecdote of the North C ou ntrie Masonry S a — tu rn alia o f th e 9 3rd Deer hu nting in Winter — — Provent for the bu sh Lou ghborou gh Lake The
u er n a —The run wa s —The a e the h nt , K pp y L k in ’ — — Fa11 A crafty hunter The death of the roe — — — Stories of wolves More sport D og Lake Bad ’ — co nsequences of pistolling C amp in the snow
— - Horse - shoe Lake Kill a four -y ear old bu ck D is c omforts of the ru nways in W inter 1
CHAPTER II . — Propo sal for a great military road General idea o f N ew — Brun swick Author i s invited to su rvey an d explore 6
IV CONTENTS . — — there Leaves Kingston R ou gh j ourney to M ontreal — — A co es e e ec o Sir c ar J ac so K . C. B . nt t d l ti n Ri h d k n, Line of the Military Ro ad Su rveying parties — arranged What was to be ob served on the survey — — The ou tfit Clothes for the forest When tobacco i s — — u seful Provisio ns Anecdote of an assistant s urgeon — — The canvas s sheds or half tents Medicines for the
” bush an d other stores 2 6
CHAPTER III . — The Grey Nu nnery Voyageurs for the Red River — Winter disco mforts Extraordinary vitality of birds — — — Leave Mon treal Arrive at Qu ebec Engage an — Indian Henchman Journey to the Riviére du Loup — The French habitans The Temisqu ata p ortage — — The black fly The peabody bird Effects of lu mber — — — ing Dreadful road s The Little Falls The River ’ — . o s N ew: run sw c e e e of ou a St J hn , B i k S ttl m nt b nd — ries Ar rive at the Grand Falls 45
AP CH TER IV . — Lieutenant Simmons Timber going over the Grand — — — Falls The lumber -m en The creeping-irons A trial — — survey The mistaken surveyor H ow Indians climb — — — — trees An escape W itch p oles A sku nk Leave — — th e Grand Fall s Ro ugh travelling The region of — ’ — beaver &c . A u er s r e The roos oo , h nt b id A t k CONTENTS . — — — Effects of lu mbering Woo dstock Accidents The ’ — — Valley of the St . John s Fredericton Arrange my
ar r the fores — a a acc e ac p ty fo t F t l id nt Re h St .
’ John s city 7 1
CHAPTER V .
’ J obns t The F a s o ere ce re ar n St . Ci y ll C nf n g di g — roads C ommerce an d resources of N ew Brunswick — Provisions for th e forest More tricks u pon travellers — ” — — Journey to th e Bend An Accident The tide — — at the Bend V isit the mountain s ettlement Com — m ence exploring an d surveying Our first camp — — Manner of working A bu sh story Su nday in the — — forest Effects of p ork an d flies S ou rces of rivers
- — — — Barrens Wild animals Rocks an d plants N ew — — Canaan River Negro stories The black bear
c a — rr ve at the a e of es Ri h l nd A i N . W . ngl W t m oreland 9 6
CHAPTER VI . — A good line of country for road -making H ow the
W oo s are c eare and roa s a e— ro osa s for d l d , d m d P p l — — settlement Royal Acadian rangers Leave th e camp — — to bring provisions Encounter burnt land Savan — — n ah grou se Miserable bivou ack Reach the N ew — — Canaan settlement It i s described Return towards — — the camp Discover a lake in the woods Wolves vi CONTENTS . — — about the camp Venomou s insects Continu e the — — — line Th e lynx An ugly lizard A land of streams — — Extravagant estimate by engineers A forest well — Silver fou ntai n Reach the S almon River 1 35
P CHA TER VII . — Explore abou t th e S almon River North an d S outh — American forests co mpared A fearful j udgment — C onstru ct two catamarans Voyage down the river — — A n original settler Bad effects of s aw- mills The — — s qu irrel -b ath Reach o ur second depot Proceed u p
the as ereau— e th e ra oo — oc ur al G p Fl ming , D g n N t n — — — torments The Caribou Rej oin the p arty The set
er o er s—The a s of the as ereau—A ra tl , R b t b nk G p iny — — c amp C onsequ ences of brown biscu it The great — — fire of Miramichi The bu rnt woo ds Beaver sign ’ — — C ain s river A river-serpent Dis tress of the party
—On e a e ar on th e a th e o er a con h lf mb k C in, th h lf tin ue the lin e to B oiestown 1 61
CHAPTER VIII . — Retu rn of the p arty to Fredericton Visit the 0m — — m oocto Lake Stanley Exp edition towards the — Upper Mir amichi in search of a bridge site A bear — — story Boots in stead of p ork Hungry camp at the — Napadaagan Lake The Miramichi Lake Lost — ~ in the woods View from Mount Alexan der Reach C ONTENTS . vii
— ’ the Miramichi A boy s adventure in the woods
’ M r ra s five a s the w er ess— ar . G nt d y in ild n P tial — — survey of th e M iramichi The N arrows Slate Is — — land The Naygog Leprosy in N ew Brunswick — Proceed to N ova S cotia Visit the author of Sam ’ — Slick - Halifax Visit a camp of Micmac Indians — Leave for Annapolis Mu tineers of the S aladin — ’ Fatal accident at the Grand Falls Lieutenant W oo d s — adventure with wolves Return to Montreal 202
CHAPTER IX .
h o a r of h orc — e s Visit t e C mm nde t e F es at S orel S t. D ni
an d arl h e f affa rs h e re e s . es t e sce s o w t St Ch , n i ith b l Chambly Lord M etcalfe Death of Sir Richard — Jackson S u rveying incidents abou t th e Riviere du — — Lou p The miller Silvain An old soldier of Napo leon Visit th e S agu enay River Chicoutami — Obtain leave to visit England Travel through the — — Eastern township s Their b eauty an d fertility Lake — — M emphramagog Vermont N ew England p eculiari — — — ties Boston The fashions S ail i n the Royal Mail ’ — — Steam-ship C ambria The p assengers A Yankee — — speech A black s qu all The Railway -mania in Eng — ’ — lan d Return to America in the Britannia A — — S cotch doctor Accident at Halifax Au thor travels
hrou a e & c to os o — our e to M on t gh M in , . , B t n J n y — ’ — treal Anecdote o f a sheriff s officer Rej oin th e regiment 24 1 CONTENTS .
CHAPTER X .
f —Th e two rea fires The as e o . o u s ue ec C tl St L i , Q b g t
oui re u a e ora a The St . L s Theat Ill min t d di m s — — Danger of camphine Fire in the Theatre Presence — — o f mind Struggles for escape Dreadful lo ss of life — Exertions of the military an d firem en Appalling — scene the morning after the fire Th e funeral s — — S uggestio ns Quebec rises from its ashes Excur s ions Voyage to Halifax Change of m en and measu res in Nova S cotia American enterprise — Desire of annexation Unreasonable complaint of a — — colonist Gaieties an d theatrical s at Halifax Retu rn — — to England Re- embark for America Dreadful — winter v oyage an d j ourney An escape from being — — frozen Montreal Conclu sion 2 7 8
App endix L ’ A CAD I E .
CHAPTER I .
’ rews da at s o —The e acN ab St . And y King t n Chi f M — — Anecdote of the North Countrie Mas onry S a — turn alia of the 9 3rd Deer hunting in winter — — Provent for the bu sh Loughborough Lake The
u er a —The ru wa s—Th e a e the h nt , Kn pp n y L k in ’— — Fall A crafty hu nter Th e death of the roe — — — Stories of wolves M ore sport D og Lake Bad ’ — consequ ences of pistolling C amp i n the snow — — Horse-shoe Lake Kill a four-year old b uck D is
r f h a er comfo ts o t e ru nw y in wint .
TH E Scotchmen of Kingston have the usual
’ ro ess er on re p c ion and dinn St . And ws Day ;
“ u o e a ou r as in d ty b und, I assist d as c nt yman
B VOL . IL ’ 2 L ACAD IE .
at the er es e re r e cha latt , sitting b id a ma kabl
M acNa racter the c e b . , a Highland kinsman , hi f
The M acNab was distingu ished by a very fin e
a earance ou w r h e rr e p , st t and stal a t, and ca i d
e e the ea of c . ers hims lf lik h d a lan His mann , too ere r cu r cour er- e as he , w pa ti la ly ti lik , had
ee u c oo so e ro he was s n m h g d ci ty ab ad , and
o e all r - e r e rue ab v , a wa m h a t d man and a t
e u su res e ue co friend . H ally d s d in a bl at and
’ trowsers with a whole acre of M acNab tartan for a a s co — at re ers he wore u w i t at, g at dinn a f ll
the e ere r e s uit of his tartan . On jack t w la g silver bu ttons which his ancestor wore in the
’ r s 5 i ing in 1 74 .
’ e ore the c e e to his o the B f hi f cam kingd m,
r f 85 a o er o e 0. ee m is f mily p p ty Kinn ll, had b n m e he ou e to re o e to anag d, and th ght it b st m v the s of er w 3 1 8 o c wild Am ica ith f his lan . They pitched their tents on the upper Ottawa in a romantic and agreeable situ ation on Lake
’ Chats called familiarly by the Scotch Shaw s
’ w ter ere the e s o e r er a , and wh at chi f l dg a st ang was su re of as e co e Highland w l m .
’ re h The St . And w s dinner passed off well t e ’ L AcAM E ; 3
c r was o u i e M r o n Ma d b . cD on ald hai cc p y J h ,
P r P. . e n t e M . a v y i telligen and xcellent youn g
tinction he is n ow an Honourable, an
o or- e r o e and S licit G ne al! f r Canada; W st . On
’ ‘ ’ r M acD on l t th o her M N M . a d s r t sa e ac ab igh t ,
’ the of u ur e er of the ouse Knight D nd n, Sp ak H of se st u ed by er ona As mbly, di ing ish his p s l
e r e o e lo alf ee e con app a anc , and wh s y d ds hav
erre o our on the c e t e he be rs f d h n an i n nam a .
AS the er New or so ere2 toor at dinn at Y k, h , a senior officer who was expected to attend and to e e to do so fe to m e to Sp ak fail d , and it ll
’ discou rse eloqu ently in answer to the toast of the u e of e o th r o D k W llingt n and e a my . S ng
or o o e the ee e er of and st y f ll w d sp ch s , and a pip the 9 3 rd a er who the e Highl nd s ( , by way want d to draw his dirk on the landlord outside for a fancied insult) played in the room with the u ual e r effe on his r instru s xhila ating ct, ma tial
ere s oul e er be e wee ment . Th h d n v a wall b t n t he om the er the e . c pany and pip , said Chi f The M acNab then called for his b onnet which
ro him on“ s er er u n was b ught a ilv salv , and p tti g
B 2 ’
4 L ACAD IE .
it on he e ere e f of or o , d liv d hims l an ati n in his
e e er on ro h he nativ Ga lic, and aft a l g pib c ,
dr s of o dew w the er ank a gla s m untain ith pip ,
who was much flattered . Among other anecdotes then related of the
‘ ’ beloved North C ountrie is one worth re
The ro er of Ben e is e cording . p p ty N vis h ld by
the proprietor binding himself to furnish at
u er re u re ow- a ro the Mids mm , if q i d , a sn b ll f m
u e rs a o ere er dr mo ntain . Y a g th was a v y y
u er n o s ow was v s e a e s of the s mm ; n i ibl , and g nt
row c u a rr e to e o se o c n had a t lly a iv d tak p s ssi n , when a Shepherd saved the estate by bringing
dow ro o e e oo suffi e o to n f m a c nc al d n k, ci nt sn w
- fill a snuff box .
D uring the winter the ancient craft of
o r was ro o e the er eu mas n y p m t d by mast , Li
tenant C olonel Sir Richard Bon nycastle of the
o eers o er the e R yal Engin , and th s, and at tim
m so r see e our s a n y m d fl i hing in Kingston . N ew
’ e r 1 8 44 ss e or of ur Y a s Day, , I a ist d at a s t sat
n alia which the officers of the 9 3rd allowed
’ e r m en to o on New e r th i h ld that day, Y a s
Day being usu ally devoted to festivity in ’
L ACAD IE . 5
o d. f er Sc tland, as Christmas is in Englan A t
er the ofli cers at the es so e of dinn with m s , m the m en e e to e r roo cam and invit d us th i ms , where we found great merriment going on ; while the soldiers and their wives and sweet
u The u con h earts were dancing l stily . m sic
he sisted of bagpipes and fiddles . T Light
o e r room e or e ure C mpany had th i d c at d with la ls , and I recognised among them a C orporal — (Davis) who had been in my own C ompany in the 4 2nd o er o R yal Highland s, by wh m I was n o e r e u oo - w nte tain d with ab ndant g d will .
The rou o o its er e g nd had l ng l st v dant mantl ,
r r 5 ro o ere h was ha d and c i p with f st, and c v d wit
ow the ree e r e of e r or e sn ; t s d p iv d th i gl i s , e e e e r e o the air xt nd d th i nak d limbs int chill ,
‘ ’ the u of the ro e had e e m sic g v s c as d, and a
e - e e e re e rou B ut i d ath lik sil nc ign d a nd . t is necessary not to succu mb to the m elancholy
ue e of er e infl nc a Canadian wint , and b ing absorbed from drill and pipe clay for a brief
e oo o e e we e Spac , b ks als b ing laid asid , mad up our minds to make a break or two in the long ’ 6 L CAD IE . A .
er e the ealthfu s wint , by ngaging in h l port of
eer n d hu ting .
’ r ri t u er k lle woodcmtt was A kw gh , a h nt s i d in ,
e e H e ro s e ngag d with his dogs . b ught hi sl igh
r r of o o e as ere is d awn by a pai st ut p ni s, and th
n o provent in the forest homestead whither we were o to o ee or ab ut pr c d, saving p k and
o oe the e fre e alf p tat s , Sl igh was ight d with h a
- .s ee re s u tea u r e e h p , b ad and bi c it, and s ga , p pp r
rre of eer M rot e and salt, and a small ba l b . y b h r chasseurs thus determined n ot to trust o nly to
e r un fo o er our n e e th i g s r viands . C v ing th r
uff o ro e our U er e e e man with b al b s, pp b ing ncas d
e co or re clo in blank t ats, g y Canadian th, with t he u sua oo c e w re or c l h d atta h d, and ith g y bla k f ur on our e we o e ou r e e caps h ads, disp s d s lv s in
cou e the e a nd e his r e pl s in Sl igh , with ach ifl
e wee ee ere t o e e w b t n his kn s , w r tt d blith ly a ay
rom the rr so f ga i n . With many a pleasant j est and answerin g
u we o er the n ura r ro of o la gh , slid v at l ail ad sn w
’ ice - e r rou ore and , past cl a ings and th gh f sts
o o o e of e er ee - firs t u af m stly c mp s d v gr n , ( h s ’ L ACAM E. 7
fording a partial relief to the g eneral white of
the e at e r e c e the e landscap ) , and l ngth a h d lak
e ou oro the fr e d e of call d L ghb ugh, and am w lling
the er n . hunt , K app It was diverting to observe the unload ” o th e rt r ero ing f e sl igh . A stalwa a till walking into the hou se with the half Sheep on his s ou ers o o e the eer rre or e h ld , f ll w d by b ba l, b n
“ o the o er or so er e al ft by g v n , t m d by his f m l r ro c e to his r u a i ia s , f m atta hm nt ubic nd
s o o and os o e re phy i gn my, a disp iti n nti ly dis p osed to goo d fellowship ; n ext followed an ” r e o rr uff oe a p im Sh t, ca ying b al s and
o s e the co e s of c er a l ng ba k t, nt nt whi h Fath Matthew ought n ot to b e made cognizant of the re r was rou u r e the a b ght p by ifl s, and
u on of war of the c se m niti s and ha .
The w r old h u ter i y n , Knapp, with his
ui e o e and o re o aq lin n s his l ng g y l cks , his
fe an d o an d d u er re e e wi s ns a ght s , c iv d us with fr e reet n e ou t roo for u s i ndly g i g, sw pt a m , and piled up a huge fi re of logs in a wide c or i e himney . F thw th comm nced culinary pre
arations e of m u o an d o oes ere p , slic s tt n p tat w ’
8 L ACAD IE .
du oo e i tem or tea r u r ly c k d , p k, d awn , m sta d
scientifically mixed ; all the hunters aided and
be e o in e u do a tt d , b th g tting p and in ing j u stice to the feast after which wrapping our
se e in ou r u f oe e c o e or o lv s b fal s, a h ch s what p ti n
of the floor suited him b est as to propinquity
to the fire bo or of ore , which a small y, a s t f st
e e . imp , att nd d The youngest of the party who j oined us
’ n ot et e ou t for e to at Knapp s, y fill d his l ngth,
two r ou o e s oo r t wit, ya ds, th gh p ss s ing a g d spi i
for the c e er o n - o has , aft d nning a ight g wn reaching to his ankles (unlike an old hunter
who ee o es e o e e f sl ps in his cl th ) , nsc nc d hims l in
the u o oo e box c er e for b nk, a l ng w d n whi h s v s
e e o e e ou t or s a s at by day, and, wh n p n d , f m
off - e bed u e in a c in lik by night . Having s d
terest one of the a e s of the ouse with d ms l h ,
he e ure n o e ree ow had s c d l ss than th pill s ,
but w he not o e o f or hich did l ng nj y, whilst
sitting up to arrange the buffalo ab ou t his
ee two e our on the oor s f t, his n ighb s fl , till ” e e u e re e wid awak , q ickly s cu d th m, and
fe e ee w t he e o e e for ign d Sl p, hils b m an d his fat
’ 1 0 L D IE ACA .
ou er o n the u e w Sh ld , h ldi g it by m zzl , a t ig
u the tr er the r e of u ca ght igg , and cha g b ck
s o was o e the ro of ou h t l dg d in g in y ng Knapp , w who died in great agony in a fe days .
ou orou e w ere we n ow s or e L ghb gh Lak , h p t d ,
is e u u e se of er we e a b a tif l xpan wat , t nty mil s
o urrou e fin e oo u e l ng, s nd d with w ds, and st dd d
s ee ou orou the with i lands . A w k at L ghb gh in “ ” u e the oo ut on fall is delightf l . Th n w ds p
e r co s of o our the u r e th i at many c l s, s ga mapl — displays all the shades of red from d eep crimson to bright orange ; the birch an d elm
flau nt in yellow livery ; the ash and bass -wood i n sob er brown ; whilst the deep green of the
fir tribe sets off the glories of the other sons of the ores f t .
The flies do n ot an noy in October ; n ow is
’ the time to take one s pleasure on the clear w er to u th e s ff or r c oe to at , la nch ki ba k an ,
a the oo for the ou r e fish to b it h k sav y whit , ” s ll u the woo s w e the w ti h nt in d , h n ind prevents the noise of footsteps b eing heard on the ash e e or e e to dr e a few eer o l av s, ls iv d int the e ere o of Lak , and th with a bl w a paddle ’
L ACA D IE . 1 1 s ecure what venison is wanted for oneself and
r e s a s s the r er to et the rest f i nd , and s i t fa m s g
’ for e r w er ore o e ou be th i int s st . N n Sh ld wan
lle r e u ou . er of fish t ly ki d Indisc iminat sla ght , flesh or fowl is qu ite u nworthy of a genuine
Sportsman ; humanity ought to temper his
r our the se e ra a d in cha , with all its xhila ting accomp animents .
’ ’ Ti s err tis err o o ree woo m y , m y in g d g n d ,
e th e av s an d er e are s Wh n m i m l inging ,
e the eer ass th e b o un ds are i n cr Wh n d p by , y,
’ ” the u er s or i s r n And h nt h n i ging .
Though Loughborough Lake was n ow l ocked u ice co ere s o of p in , and v d with n w, and wing
r e e to be ou or u o t in bi d had c as d ab t p n it, ye
r w e the ice a e r it Ap il, h n dis pp a s , in a day
ou ee e u er e d w ld t m with lif , and inn m abl wil fowl would disport on its b osom . On our way to the runways we were m et ree loafish oo e the by th l king blad s, c e of o ll a e hi f wh m was Bi y Bl ckaby, an idl
oo - u oure u ro ue who n e g d h m d, but c nning g , gleeted his farm for the chase ; and whose grey ’
1 2 L ACAD IE .
fro ro er o ere ictu ck, t ws s and m cassins, w p r u el r e r u or e esq y agg d and to n . S pp ting hims lf on o un he he m et his l ng g , said that had with
n o ort was o o e . er or Sp , and g ing h m Aft a sh t
er o e the ree ro e off talk in an und t n , th t tt d , and soon after we were p osted at our stations by
Arkwright . ! The Aide- de- camp and myself took up our w t ru e the re e a ch at a nway, indicat d by c nt
r of eer on the s ow rom t ack a d n , passing f
or to sou o the e s ru e n th th , am ng pin and p c tree We al e to fro r o e e s . w k d and , pa tly c nc al d
e r e e o ou r oo - ro s b hind a la g h ml ck, sh ting i n
e N ot ou e r i n r ady at hand . a s nd was h a d the
oo e the occ o a of woo w d , sav asi n l tapping d
e er n ow far off n ow ou c o e p ck s, , l d and l s at
W e w e e for the ha in hand . ait d impati ntly y g
’ of the o s s er our s e the d g ; at la t , aft an h d lay,
“ J , ’ e of r o er s our e ou y lp P is n , Knapp fav it h nd ,
as e r W e ere on h w h a d . w instantly t e alert ;
few w ro e e r u s e fin e a t igs b k n a , and th n a
’ ou u c u r of u re ou s y ng b k , pwa ds a h nd d p nd
l o th h a ers a a 7 9 H . C pt in El i t, ig l nd ’
L ACAD IE . l 3
we ro e e bellv and ight, with b wn sid s , whit , bushy tail (longer and fuller than those we see
H e was end uro e ou e o rds us. in E p ) , b nd d t wa
H e on, and we fired a little too soon . was
ou e for oo r on the rou d w nd d , bl d and hai g n
o e the r but reer n ot Sh w d g azing ball, his ca was
o e H e t r e to the r the e . st pp d at tim u n d ight, and was s oon ou t of Sight among the grey trunks W e followed the blood-stained track ; bu t a who os e se ou t Billy Bl ckaby, had p t d him lf of e e ure the r e sight at a lik ly stand , s c d p iz
u e u e off we e da and q i tly ha l d it , as n xt y
learned . Whilst we were advising as to future pro
ceedin s o er e was u e e rd g , an th y lp s dd nly h a , and a plump roe dashed past us within twenty
f e u o s e ro yards . A atal bull t and b cksh t p d f m
two rre s she u e orw r e ba l , and pl ng d f a d and f ll .
The o u er who . was e r e rus e l ng h nt n a , th n h d
u e e his e her ec e p and fl sh d knif in n k, th n
n her e s o e er r st r c tyi g l g t g th , and th u ing a b an h
rou e we c rr e her to the e th gh th m, a i d _ sl igh at
the ed e o t g f he forest . ’
14 L ACAD IE .
W e were j oined by the other hu nters,
er orr R A t e Captains Cat and M is, , and h n after some friendly exchange of pistols (liqu or ! flasks,but which if success is desired should be
“ ” ffo de as oll s u redl u e es a r d , pist ing a s y nst adi the o es the e re e ore hand, and als mak xt miti s m
u s e e of o we re ur e to ou r den s c ptibl c ld) , t n d at
’ n w ere we s e err e e w t K app s , h p nt a m y v ning i h
or es so . st y , j t , and ng
One e old was oo for day , wh n Knapp l king ” s c of m er the woo s he es e on e a ti k ti b in d , pi d
of his o ru ow r s ee d gs nning t a d him , s mingly in
a fright ; presently a large wolf appeared in
c se s e e o ce e ree ha , Knapp t pp d at n b hind a t ,
as the o er u r a se and m nst , ga nt and g im , p s d ,
he w e erou s o of his o w , ith a d xt bl w t maha k,
s e the o s e rr e o e its di abl d it in l in , and th n ca i d h m
skin . “ ” ’ e r ! he to m e ou re o of D a said , y f nd
m e o w o to o . e b ating W ll , and my s ns ill g in
the woo s c out s of c edar d , and pi k a tick , and
e ou s f s w er our ee ee ee mak y a ki f thi int , f t n f t k l,
ro ll whi e er t o f st ng and light, that wi p v y hing ’ L ACAD IE . i s
its ze u a r of o r on a e On; Si , p lling a p i a s , L k
r o The cr ft “ was ord c omm ie; ta i . a acc ingly
An instance of extraor dinary craftiness in wolves was told m e by an esteem ed friend of
or ro en e e r u e e Mr . sp ting p p siti s , living n a Q b c,
d H e on on e o s o on the G . Rylan was cca i n woo ded heights comman ding a view of the
ure ue e M em hram a o the e er pict sq Lak p g g , in ast n
w of r u e o n . e t ships Canada It was n a s ns t , and at som e distance b elow him was an op en
e o ere so r eer was ee r m ad w, wh a lita y d s n g azing ;
rese two o e s u e ro the ores p ntly w lv s i s d f m f t, and
e he looked towards the deer . Th y seem ed to plan
w e er a re o u ning an attack , h n , aft an ppa nt c ns lta
o on e e off r rou the eer ti n , w nt , and ci cling nd d , lay down b ehi nd it ; the other wolf then made
O e he the eer urn e fled an p n attack, w n d t d and ; but e the r o he s r n u as it pass d fi st w lf, p a g p
e e u o the u or u e and fast n d p n nf t nat animal,
u u c er s which th s q i kly p i hed .
My first wolf was encountered on an in terestin e the of e g fi ld, plains Assay in India ’ 1 6 L A AD E C I .
n ot for the whilst hunting, wild animals at
t e but for the re of the o ree im , mains mang t ,
ere e e r shatt d with ball and bull t, and n a which “ ” the or the ro u e oo vict , I n D k , in that bl dy
o re r e o for o e e and m st ma kabl acti n , s m tim
oo the s s e of the o or st d . With a si tanc p tail,
e of the e ose eft arm h ad man villag , wh l had
ee ew off b M ahrattah sabre the roo b n h n y a , ts
ere ou r du u . w f nd , and a pa t g p “ Turn we from the East to the land of the ” es a a W t g in .
’ Next day at Knapp s we had good sport ” two or eer We u u fire to m e d . b ilt p a
eware of the ru s re orte to er b nway , and s d it aft
the ru s to di u s our ro ee n , sc s p c dings and thaw
ou r ers fing .
The third day was not so good ; Knapp got
on e eer bu t we ot n o e ou we re e d , g n , th gh main d
ro ten r on se r our o s f m till da k, nt y at p st ,
n to fro or e c rees &c. walki g and , Sk t hing t , ,
e o n e of ou r u ers was seat d on a l g . O h nt
sa e w al on ee urr e di bl d ith a f l his kn , by h i dly
u ou t of s e e j mping a l igh, which was b ginning
’
L ACAD IE .
e h r o of the r a ir w e the si x ila ati n b acing , hil ght was gratified by each tree and branch b eing
ru e o er fros e si er c o se u e c st d v with t d lv , n q nt on hard and su dden frost su cceeding a damp fog .
To assist the warmth of the fur robes abou t our o er r our ourn e orou l w man , and va y j y, a vig s snow-hall fight was m aintain ed b etween the
e bu t the or e n ot ee Sl ighs , which h s s did s m
t u ers or to re either o nd tand lish .
er dr e of e e ee m es we re e Aft a iv s v nt n il , ach d
’ u e s e on D o lo - ou e T ttl Plac g Lake. A small g h s re e e u s co s s of two roo s c iv d , n i ting m , and a porch in fr ont to assist in keepin g out the cold ;
rou us was e re of r es a nd an amphith at idg ,
o w r was u e s ere ee . e ere c v d ith t s It a q i t , h lt d
o the s e of ore e the sp t, by id a f st lak . At
oor the re rew cr s to o e d , child n th umb s m
r - familiar c oss bills .
It was very interesting to notice these winter
’ s ro the so i u e of u o visitant f m l t d s H ds n s Bay ,
r r e and at a time too when n o othe bi d was n ar.
e r ros hills w c rs a e r e e Th i c s , hi h at fi t pp a a d f ct, are admirably contrived for separating the scales ’ L s camnt 19
of the see of the on erous ree from w ds c if t s, hich they usually derive their sustenance ; the bill i also assis ts i n c limb ng.
Hearing that there was a fiddle in the
e ou r oo we o s o e it .a;n d e n ighb h d, c mmi si n d , danc d, ” co er the u e m or e s coti ce v ing b ckl , , till it was
he o r time to turn into our buffaloes on t fl o .
Ne m or n w t ree r of o xt ni g, i h th pai s s cks and
o ss s we ess e o s oe it m ca in , ay d sn w h ing ; and was ludicrous to witness the mishaps of those who figur ed on the broad r acquettes for the
fir e one o e on e oe o e , st tim ; at m m nt , sh v r
the o er the we rer wou he r e e lapping th , a ld iv tt d
to the s o the ex he ou b e on his p t ; at n t , w ld
nees or ros r te on his e m o the s o k , p t a fac , a ng n w.
o e er e r e of lif the H w v , with a littl p actis ting fro of the oe e u n the er nt sh w ll p, and slidi g aft “ ” r o er the s o the trick ou pa t v n w, was f nd
out.
s o -S oe i s o a fr e Of l oo A n w h an v l am ight w d,
kept o pen by two cross«hars and filled up with
a n et work of deer skin thongs ; it is generally
r o b ftee i e ro o . ab ut a ya d l ng y fi n nch s b ad, and ’
20 L ACAD IE . is lightly secured across the toe and round the
ankle by soft straps .
To et to our u - ro we ut our g h nting g und, p ” r on a e r e ter t aps sl igh , and t amp d af it
rou the fore t o o l o to th gh s , ccasi na ly st pping hew our the axe t ro f en ree way with h ugh all t s, ” when the obj ectionable practice of pistolling — with pocket-flask was resorted to pour p asser ls temp s . W e took our stations at the ru nways Tuttle
e rou the r e do ree w nt nd hill, ba king lik a g ; th does soon appeared and one fell It was e e and t e to e the v ning, im mak camp in “ o l ree was r t e the . o d e sn w An t fi s f ll d, as ” lo of our fire e two ru e e e back g ; th n c tch s , s v n
ee out of the ro ere set u at the f t g und, w p dis t e of e e ee ro e ch o er on anc tw lv f t f m a th , and them was laid a ridge-pole ; on it rested at an a e of 4 50 o er o e on e ere ngl th p l s, and th m w
re u o e e o e ers or m ca f lly disp s d h ml ck f ath , s all
r es of the e o - e ro e off b anch h ml ck pin , b k n and laid like thatch on the sloping roof of our
W w o e in ro t to the u e igwam , hich was p n f n h g ’ , L ACAD IE . 2 1
' fire o e at the e ou , and cl s d sid s with b ghs .
s the o was o e e ro our La tly, sn w sh v ll d away f m ! r w oo e e fo e the axe lai ith w d n Spad s , rm d with , and boughs were spread for our bed on the
rou g nd .
The o e t a ou u s efore r f r s r nd , b da k and
re r oo e now ee fu the ru s d a y, l k d ch r l, as t nk cau ght a ruddy glow from our great fi ’i’tsfii ‘ll the flames sparkled upwards towards the g en fi f
ou o er e b ghs high v h ad .
er our e e e of or u Aft v ning m al p k, bisc it, and tea e r r n e t e fro e , and h a ing st a g al s m Nat Lak ,
d o er rou oo s e who In ian Jim , and th gh w d m n
o e us we r e to ee . n ot acc mpani d , t i d sl p It was
° e r the o 5 2 e ow the asy at fi st, as c ld was b l 0 freezing point (20 below which would rather have astonished a person fresh from the old cou r we e e u o c ous nt y ; at last , all b cam nc ns i u er our uff oe e o e who e e the nd b al s , sav th s t nd d fi re .
the orn er r or o e In m ing, aft sund y saltat y m v
ower a a a w ere the s ow i s severa ee In L C n d , h n l f t dee the rs o era o a ca w er i s p , fi t p ti n in m king mp in int
a the eaves are r ac e digging pit till l e h d . ’
2 2 L Acs nm .
e u ro d the trees an d r in m nts, r nning un , Sp ings the air to su le our m so e be , pp li bs , m what numbed with the intense cold; we broke our
“ ” ’ fast by friz zling pie ces of me at on the ends of c s ou r old e o as the sti k in Cap fashi n, and sleigh could go ; n o farther; We divided the
e e h c rr n a' ortiorr the oo baggag , and ac a yi g p ( g d
’ ‘ hu moured Sapper Shoulderin g two thirty-five
“ ” u e tr fo or e- oe p o nd bags) we mad acks r. H s Sh
Lake.
is e is fine . ece of w ter the Th Lak a pi a , in
’ e r of the ore ets ro h a t f st, with isl and cky s ore ree ou it as we e h s , and high t s ab t ; pass d o er oo do ro e ud e ro v it, a wild l king g s s d nly f m a
r su s ce in the ice was e er w da k b tan , it a d hich had been run down; lying frozen and half devour ed ; the dog would n ot allow itself to be c u t but s or e e e ee e a gh , n t d d fianc , and s m d an
u er indep endent h nt .
W e took up our position for the night in a
’ eser e u erer a of o s a o s er e d t d l mb s sh nty l g , c n id abl part of the roof of this small squ are bu t being
w to fa our the e of the s o e. anting, v passag m k
’ e fo om e old o s er W und in it s m ca sins, a hunt s ’
L NOAE IE . 2 3
d axe and two u r er of ot an ee . p , hind q a t s d r On e of these was immediately thawed in a hole m ade in the ice of the lake; and roasted
e s of a s r u rom b e but by m an t ing h ng f a am ,
ur the o er o ose who sat u to d ing p ati n , th p assist ” were o e ro h the o e c d n b wn wit sm k , whi h
lle the u e to e e e and re . fi d cabin , f s d mak its scap
The o was e e e er c ld still int ns , and s v al had to rub o on r e o who e sn w f ost bit s . Th se cam
“ for e sur e ou here be so e pl a , th ght t must m ” mistake ! Next morning we crossed over the ice on the
e e e o e our oo e Lak , asc nd d , with s m lab , a w d n r e ran o its e s er ores idg which al ng a t n sh , and
o e our e es er e r ru s in p st d s lv at int vals n a nway , dicated our u ers who e e t to dr e by h nt , th n w n iv th e deer .
The o so re a a erou c ld was g at, th t it was d ng s to ou ou r u s the t e e t ch g n with unmi t n d hand, for the skin would have come off ; fortunately
ere n o so t the c re th was wind, tha thi k g y
r e e or an e o e e to o ou t f i z , bl k t c ats, nabl d us h ld
our o at stati ns .
I took with m e a young forester to assist ’
24 L ACAD IE . in looking out ; two pair of eyes (and ears) are
' est on e e o s o W e ot e b th s cca i ns . g b hind a
‘ ro r e lo oo e to our p st at g, and l k d caps, a slight grating sou nd was heard on the snow on our r fine four e r old u ight, and a y a b ck
oun e o u e was b d d at a hand gall p past s . H
r e e e et b oadside on ; we l v ll d and fired . A bull
oo effe t on e he e for rd t k c his n ck, stumbl d wa , and he r for fe the h u , as was st uggling li , nting
e ut end to The r w knif p an his pain . b a ny
uttle o out r e e T , c ming up, b anch s and twist d
‘ e o e t e e the e of the eer th m int with s, h n ti d l gs d
o e er the o er en d of the t g th , and placing th
u ro e ro own od b e r e him b sh p und his b y , d agg d over the snow to the forest camp ; from thence
r ff t the sleigh ca ried o he game.
A oun u er of the r e e o y g h nt pa ty, a pl asant f ll w
ee or re ou see and a k n sp tsman, having p vi sly n ” so r r e of o fe r apid a discha g pist ls , and a ing the of u o on the o e want amm niti n way h m ,
u n he ou ur e f our e had c nni gly, as th ght , b i d a av it s qu are bottle of rum in the snow near the “ r bu t n ot u o erve our new Wig am, n bs d by
u e of D o e for e he now acq aintanc s g Lak , wh n
2 6 ’ L ACAD IE .
CHAPTER II . — Prop osal for a great military roads General idea of New — B run swick Author i s invited to survey an d explore — e — there Leaves Kingston Rou gh j ourney to M ontreal
- — A co es e e ec o Sir c ar ac s n B . o K . C. nt t d l ti n Ri h d J k , - Line —of the Military Road Su rveying p arties arranged What was to be ob served on the survey — — The ou tfit Clothes for the forest When tobacco i s — — u seful Provisions Anecdote of an assistant surgeon — - The canvass sheds or half tents Medicines for the ” n d er or s bu sh a oth st e .
TH E Imperial Government having for some t e e re to e re r ro of im d si d hav a g at milita y ad , fro five to six hun re e e to m d d mil s in l ngth, connect Quebec and Halifax through Canada
s New ru o o to Ea t, B nswick, and N va Sc tia, facilitate the passage of troops through these
’ L AOAD IE . 2 7
ro e to or e the r e e e for p vinc s, Sh t n p s nt distanc the one u re le mails by h nd d and fifty mi s , and to o e u new s re o for Se e e p n p and va t gi ns ttl m nt, directions were sent to the Governor General of
r s or er ro the C olonial Office B iti h N th Am ica f m ,
to o o e o o o o and C l n l H ll way, c mmanding R yal
eer ro the oar of Ord Engin s in Canada, f m B d
e the e of 1 8 44 to e e nanc , in b ginning , tak st ps for carrying this important measure into imme
e e e u o diat x c ti n .
The e e e o r of New ru xt nsiv c unt y B nswick,
’ the r or o of e L Acadie re p incipal p ti n anci nt , quired especially to be explored throu gh its
e c ntre . Its area is reckoned at abou tt wenty e ou u re e l be ight th sand sq a mil s, and it may sti l
.
o ere one s fore for the few e e c nsid d va t st, s ttl
‘ ments and its scanty population are. as yet
o e to the sea co to the o er c nfin d ast, and l w parts of the n oble rivers which everywhere
er e ul urf e int s ct its und ating s ac .
Neither in England n or in Canada was mu ch known of New Brunswick ; the general idea
Of was e se ex e of it , that it was an imm n pans
r oo o er un e er da k w ds , v which h g v lasting mists,
c 2 ’ 2 8 D L ACA IE . that a few fishermen inhabited the stormy c o ere ou u ice for asts, which w b nd p in many
o of the e r t the er or was m nths y a , and tha int i
h e u e t rr u nfit for settlement . T e subs q n na ative
we tru t o the ure r will s Sh w what is nat , a id
' what are the capabilities of this large and un a ppreciated p ossession of England . I had studied engineering at the Royal Mili & t r o e e ur c . a y C ll g , Sandh st, at Chatham, , and having done regimental du ty for some years
o e e de rou to re c ns cutiv ly, I was again si s b ak ” the e of o e to o e o lin c ach s , and btain mpl y
’ ment in the Royal Engineer department in
Canada . The commanding Royal Engineer had been m e a u e e an d he now ad cq aint d with my wish s, paid me the compliment to ask m e to under
l t e two o er offi er eu e t ak , with th c s, Li t nan
. . . o E . eu e t J L A Simm ns, R . , and Li t nan
. oo 8 1 st e e t he e or o J W ds , R gim nt, xpl ati n and s r e of the e of the ro re u v y lin p posed military ad.
I er oo o e du ou gladly und t k this c ng nial ty, th gh
I was aware it would be attended with great
ffi e e o ure r o et di culti s, xp s , and p ivati ns, y it was ’ L ACAD IE . 29
preferable to the ordinary routine of garrison
u e o u er ru o t d ty, and a s c nd s mm c ising ab u
e r It re new o . ro Lak Onta i was b aking g und ,
’ and gratified one s ambition to assist in open
u the re our e of re t re o ing p s c s a g a gi n, and
ro mu o o . imp ving its c m nicati ns Finally, I thought it might help my promotion if the
u u n d ty was faithf lly a d creditably p erformed .
In the e of r e t ton b ginning Ap il, I l f Kings for o rea er rr e e for ' M nt l, aft making a ang m nts
the s l of r e e it was o a o fur ur &c. di p s h s s , nit , , as impossible to say when I might rej oin the
re e he r e o one u re . gim nt . T j ou n y f h nd d and e es w f at e e t ighty mil , ith my amily, this incl m n
was s re W e e o of the e r os e e . s as n y a , m t di ag abl
r e e e r or o e o - o t av ll d in an xt a , p n p st wagg n , a close carriage was considered too heavy for
the ro e e no w re fte the ads, which w r b aking up a r
’ er fr wint s ost . The driver and myself walked a considerable
t of he e ar t to re e e the e u e ors . p way , li v xha st d h s After thirty-six miles toiling through snow
’ r f m u d we re e r ern d i ts and , ach d W ight s Tav ,
ere we ere ut o rre -roo wh w p int a ga t m, with ’
3 0 L A CAD IE .
r l e e e he o e seve a pan s d fici nt in t wind w . W remained here (I cannot say rested) till another
w e we ro eed e r e 3 A . M . ed xt a cam up at , h n p c
e re ott on a . W e re e ro ag in ach d B ckvill and P sc ,
ro l tu ou r on fro e o l ing and mbling ab t fi st z n r ads ,
t en rou o t m ud we ot to the P t h th gh s f , till g la
e we u f t in ee mud Rapids , wh n st ck as a d p
o e e e h le in the middle of th night . Pass ng rs a nd baggage were got off the waggon to
i e t s ro the l ght n ship, and aking rail f m
“ fe es on the e of th e ro we f l nc sid ad, pain u ly “ hoisted the Waggon out of its Slough of
« despond .
Plunging through snow-wreaths up to the
a e ree we re e the Cas e ere xl t s, ach d cad Rapids h
” we ot r er who n ot see a g a dashing d iv , did ” fl l o the or o e at tri es. W e i n in path, b ggl s ei e a os the ice of the ttaw l gh d cr s O a, which
was rapidly b ecoming unsafe : on e horse fell
t ro u but our r er the e h gh, d iv , animating t am
vo e an d ot u s o er ou at with ic whip , g v , th gh
we ro ee ed re t r s to e erro . e e g a i k, Isl P t Th nc p c d
t o e w we re e after fo r d o M ntr al, hich ach d u ays
t e n of mos e n r e and and thre ights t unpl asa t t av l ,
’ ’ 2 AD IE 3 L AC .
o er of o r e m et no r e bu t v t s, c u s , with hind anc , whenever a M olsom man ventured towards the ” o ri l a r l e he was p ll, A ng ing was call d , and imm ediatel t e the o e r e v hus l d, and cl th s ipp d
‘ off en the o er e o er . him ; finally , wh C ns vativ v t s
ere e n ro o ro e er w b i g th wn d wn, and t dd n und
foo the t r e e e out. ere ere t, mili a y w r call d Th w
the two of o e e r . e o days c mpl t ana chy On s c nd, a party of the 8 9th being drawn u p in the
r e w t ou e of e r e in e Hayma k t, i h a c pl s nt i s advanc to ee e r ro e r the r e to k p th i f nt cl a , I ish b gan
e u o e f er ro o n pr ss p n th m, a t having th wn d w and
” grossly m altreated some M olsom voters ; one.
‘ m an r e e re e e e . was st ipp d nti ly nak d , and b at n
r e or ere one of the r o er A cha g was d d , and i t s was killed, and a few more pricked with the
o e e e e Th r . e bay n t, all which th y richly m it d e e t o e e to be e e ed the l c i n nd d, as was xp ct , in
e ur of r ru o r t n M . D mm nd . The very estimable and distinguished Com
er of the or e Sir r o mand F c s, Richa d Jacks n ,
o e m e u e o at t e sh w d m ch att nti n his tim , and warmly promoted the undertaking for which
o e to o re to e re r o I had g n M nt al mak p pa ati ns, ’
L A CAD IE . 3 3 u nder the directions of that very zealous and
f er o e o o r or o o . ha dw king public fic , C l n l H ll way The general idea of the line of the military ro t it s ou run fro f to ad was, tha h ld m Hali ax the e of the of u at the e of h ad Bay F ndy, b nd the e o N W ro New er e e . P titc diac Riv , th nc . ac ss
r o r o e o n on the r B unswick t wa ds B i st w , Mi a
for e ort of re er o the michi, ty mil s n h F d ict n,
ou the r of the er capital, t ch at G and Falls Riv
. o e e o the f o er o e St J hn, th nc , av iding r nti , c ntinu by the east side of the Temisquata Lake to the
ower ere du ou so o the L Rivi L p, and al ng by
ou of he re e to o t L v t . e s th bank St Law nc P in i, o o e ue pp sit Q bec .
ro a to the e of the e o F m Halif x B nd P titc diac, there was already a hundred and fifty miles of travelled road ; one hundred and ten miles also fro the Riviére du Lo to ue e but t e e m up Q b c, h s p ost roads would eventually require to be im
ro e or e e o e e . e ee the p v d, th ir lin sh rt n d B tw n
e o the Riviére du Lo ere P titc diac and up , th were abou t three hundred miles of mountain
fo e e e er the and swamp, r st and prairi , but g n ally
C 3 ’
34 L ACAD IE .
ou r was one u roke fo e h now c nt y nb n r st, w ich required to be explored an d surveyed .
’ Lieutenant Sim mons portion of work was from the Riviere du L ou p towards the Grand Falls
’ Lieutenant Wood s the middle po rtion ; and it was allotted to m e to proceed by Fredericton and
’ d and . o s to the e of the Pe o St J hn b nd titc iac,
d hew o er the e e to the N . W . an disc v b st lin , my wa ou the ore o r o esto y thr gh f st t wa ds B i wn, whereabou ts a site for a bridge over‘ the river
r c to be e er e on the Mi ami hi was d t min d , and best point of departure for a branch road to
re er F d icton .
c r to o t of one of e one Ea h pa ty was c nsis fic r,
s st surve or one d u e e as i ant y , In ian g id , and ight a w o u The e e oo e r erer . n tt ndants, dsm n l mb s gineer was to precede with his Indian henchman an d a o er ex or an d e r n w n th man, pl ing cl a i g ith the axe r two ore m en ere to o o pa tially m w f ll w, blazing or cutting a large slice (if bark off each t ee o the ro o e e so c ear r al ng p p s d lin , al l ing a
‘ tr k of six eet W e b c o n s ac f id , y utting d w mall tree u for me the c of s and br sh, asuring by hain ’
L ACAD IE . 3 5
- six fee . The ss nt u e or the sixty t a ista s rv y , with
r e circumferenter o ss ou d la g c mpa with sights, w l mark the direction of the line (the theodolite is too e e for the oo the d licat this in w ds) , and — s econd assistant and a chain bear er w ould fol low re u e ur the e the rest of the , ca f lly m as ing lin , m en to rr the oo st ca y packs, c k, and assi
e er g n ally .
On this exploration there were to be n o
e of ur e the o ere to be b asts b d n, and l ads w
’ rr e on the e e e ca i d m n s backs . It was int nd d to r re o os e maintain as st aight a di cti n as p sibl ,
o far r e ee l av iding, as as p acticabl , all st p hi ls and
ee r re e r the ne d p and apid st ams, n a which li
u m st pass .
e er r e n o r of the ro was to As a g n al ul , pa t ad be of re er s o e one oo we a g at l p than f t in t nty,
c be effe e detour whi h might ct d by making a ,
u s ur er ee l re be and th t ning any v y st p hil , ca ing
e the e e to ee suf e tak n , at sam tim , k p fici ntly high so as to avoid such marshes as m ight
ro The ci e t p bably be found at their bases . an n road-makers did n ot seem to be aware of this
e the e ou the e simpl fact , that distanc r nd handl 36 ’ L ACAD IE .
of a bucket is the same if it is held vertically or
“ or o e e r r e to o h iz ntally, sinc th i p actic was g pain f ully straight over the t0ps of hills . The new country through which the explora t o to t e e to be re u i n was ak plac , was ca f lly examined on the following points : 1 st. the natur e
of the o o e e ro - i s il, as c nn ct d with ad mak ng and
n the ure o h as adapted for settling ; 2 d . nat f t e t er er oo u e ere to imb , which latt is a g d g id wh by
e of the fer of the o judg tility s il . The line of the road was to be carefully blazed or m arked on the trees ; for this purpose an axe ro e for e r on was p vid d ach pa ty, having its
the o r of r e r w poll B a d O dnanc ma k (B . ith the broad arrow ; this would distinguish the line explored from any which might be made by lumberers and other parties traversing the
The e re o r e woods . distanc and di cti n t av lled
e e to be re or e e e or r e w r p t d and sk tch d, and f wa d d
’ to the o o eer e e e C mmanding R yal Engin , wh n v r
ffe e ou er for ur opportunity o r d . V ch s all disb se ments were to be carefully made out in tripli cate the men were to be paid for six work ing days ; no work was to be d one on ’ L ACAD IE . 3 7
S undays ; receipts were to be taken for all payments and expenses incurred also for con veyan ces n ot furnished by the C ommissariat
r depa tment . In engaging the several individuals composing the r es the e eer ere to e er pa ti , ngin s w mak it p fectl u er oo the e e t of y nd st d, that in v n bad
e our on the r of of the m en e b havi pa t any , th y were to be paid and discharged at once .
The ou tfit for the exploration was p eculiar ;
r the r e he e . ou t fi st, d ss I hav always f nd that
e e r on the e was re e rou b st w a h ad a g y f lt hat, nd
’ o e ro - r ed e r t pp d and b ad b imm , lik a Spania d s ; for the o o e of red e r b dy, a c upl flann l shi ts, and two or three pair of strong drill trowsers ; for the ee or e o l o e f t, w st d s cks, as a s Indian l ggings
(as there was much swamp) of brown leather and m occassins all in one ; these were fastened
er the ee o er the tro er o und kn , v ws s ; als , as a
’ e r of ere ro lea chang , a pai lumb r s st ng, black
er f- oo er- e w r & roo e e c . th hal b ts, wat p f d ith g as ,
For the e e to ee o bon v ning and sl p in , a Sc tch net a o r e re o t r ro er o , c a s g y c a and wa m t ws s, als
m in occass s . On u o e e o dry s ch a r ugh xp diti n, 3 8 ’ L ACAD IE .
’ and where every thing was carried on men s
s o o e to s a e back , it was nly p ssibl h v and wash
o er e c ot e o e a- ee all v and chang l h s nc w k .
There were also a warm waistcoat with
ee e o or er for the ec red sl v s , c mf t n k, Canadian
s e to r u the o s enab e one the sa h s gi d p l in , and l
better to hold out ; a couple of blankets rolled
u o ‘ s re o ut e t p in an il skin bag , which , p ad , k p
m e ro the rou n o f m damp g d, and int which I
h r e could also creep if t e ain be at on m . I had
oo un to ro or o o er a g d g , th w ball sh t , a p wd
’ ’ or er o w or u er t h n , a hunt s t maha k h nt s ligh ” axe n e r tin tot ron , k iv s in scabba ds, a and i
oo s ten ou of s o two sp n , fifty ball and p nds h t,
o e co sse e oo s and four o e p ck t mpa s, lin s, h k d z n
es s r e s ou se fe ro sew fli , t ik light , h wi , with st ng ing
er s ree r e o r e o e o s mat ial , th la g c a s t w ls, c mbs, cis i “ ” or &c . r e e rou the s s , , la g v ls, all nd hat , and
sewn u p at the back of the neck for the m os
c es quitoes and bla k fli .
I ot for the m en who ere to r o e e r g , w p vid th i own o es r e e ee- ou es cl th , la g blank ts, thr p nd ax ,
oo e - e e m own re w ll n night caps, v ils lik y , a hav
for a e of o e r e- t sack chang cl th s, st ik lights, pin
’ 40 L ACAD IE .
e t em to o if e ee re vid h with bacc , th y had b n p
viousl c to e to it y a cus m d .
Our ro o ere to o t of t or p visi ns w c nsis sal p k,
e e it oe a re t a e f b caus g s g a way, littl satis ying
’ o e e e u r the hot er n s app tit , partic la ly in summ
o it e rr e r t m nths, and is asily ca i d, ha d biscui ,
tea ro s r e er and black and b wn uga , p pp , salt,
r . too no re er e e o musta d I k p s v d m ats, n thing
in tins ; the only luxury I allowed was a little
of r e old or e e bag ic , which, as an i ntal, I lik d,
’ but which lu mberers don t much fancy .
ff - r eo a e t A sta assistant su g n , pl asan man,
who oo o e to m e e and sang a g d s ng, cam wh n I
re r to t a o was p pa ing star , and s id , I sh uld like very much to go with you on this expedi
t o o ou not co t e it I i n , c uld y n riv I said had
n o o e e m e for e e t all wanc mad a m dical att ndan ,
and o e to be own o tor I was accust m d my d c , all I could do for him (and I should like his com
er e as no co o o pany v y w ll, I had mpani n) w uld
’ be to let him carry eighty or one hundred
e t of or or t and ow him w igh p k biscui , all a
o da the of the men d llar a y, pay . ’ E 4 1 L ACAD I .
ell t t t do the o or W , ha migh , said D ct ,
for e but u o e ou e ou a tim , I s pp s y tak with y
ll or of o or k e e e e e a s ts c mf ts, as pic l s, pr s rv d m ats , & ” o er c. l bst s in tins ,
f re re e or u the . P k and bisc its is a , I pli d
The Doctor said no m ore ; not relishing such forest diet .
’ ff u To carry tents on men s backs is di ic lt .
e are too e er o e Th y h avy and cumb s m , and amongst trees on hot nights they obstruct the air we be e o e to e r , but as might xp s d h avy ains, and as it was desirable that every one should be
u e e t as the a o r ou be er in r d h al h, l b u w ld v y
re e e r to e o e ro e t on g at, it was n c ssa y hav s m p t c i fro the we er r the so we m ath du ing night, that m e o ou ee ight nj y s nd sl p .
I accordingly got three sheds of striped t e to to w war the two icking mad put up ind d , for the m en (five m en in each shed) were t e e fee o ten ro e e ee the w lv t l ng, b ad , and s v n d p , sides were made by cutting a squ are of seven feet o e or r t e ticking diag nally, ach half igh angl d
r e or e a e for the e c t iangl f m d sid sh d, whi h was ’ 4 2 L ACAD IE.
or e on two for ed o e or r t e supp t d k p l s , c u ch s,
e e fee a r e o e e on s v n t high , and idg p l r sting t e h ou or five o e o e h m, which, wit f r th r p l s,
re e on the r e o e ere which st d slanting idg p l , w out e er da t er of fir v y y, a hick lay twigs, laid
e ow for o t e s or the ar et of upsid d n s f n s , f ming c p the s e The c r of the e was h d . ba k pa t t nt
e e to the rou the o e for e p gg d g nd , and wh l m d
te e e t the o ood a half nt as it w r , whils l ng w
fire w e h o e fro In: as mad opposite t e p n nt . w er two of es e e u t fa e to face int , th sh ds p c , w fire e ween oul ffo o o t e ith a b t , w d a rd c mf r abl
e s and s er. e e o e ou h lt Each w igh d nly ight p nd ,
o u er r lled p v y snug . I wonder that sheds like these have never been u sed in campaigning ; one man might
rr s e er f or -a- oze e thus ca y h lt half d n, and pik s
t do or own e migh f poles . My sh d was eight
eet ten e e e i e . sea so n f by , and s v n d p As at , the ores the e er ou be so e t f t, l ad sh ld m wha
e r e from the men too e s pa at d his party ; , , lik to be relieved from the restraint they would be ot e w e u e h r is nd r . ’
L ACAD IE . 43
Our other stores were a small packet of
e e o e oil for e e m dicin s, as salts, liv dys nt ry
’ e u c ure of r r o er ow ip cac anha, tin t huba b , D v s p
der er u e the e e of e s (v y s ful in v nt a chill) , plast rs ,
for ou r o e &c . to in bandag s, , twa d applicati n
ur e for o u o e the j i s , and m sq it bit s and black
fl ere re or e oil . e o roo e y, camph at d Th w als a c k d
e to e axe e two on e- knif mak handl s, inch
au ers to e r to es e r er two g mak afts d c nd iv s,
imblets two ee es e e g , packing n dl and twin , wh t
s o es e of e er to e rr r t n , a sid l ath mak ca ying st aps for the large bags of ticking in which the
ro & e e e u fer e o c. r o p visi ns, , w st w d, l ci match s,
the for e r our s e chain m asu ing di tanc s, a lamp
an d oil two or ree r of o , th ba s s ap, small tin
two ro tea e t e r basins, i n k t l s, a f ying pan , a
e e o e or - e k ttl c ntaining tin plat s , and h n handl d
e for e oo kniv s , ks and m tal sp ns .
For re we b e o e e ading had Bi l s, s m sci ntific
or oc e o u e of oe r u w ks, p k t v l m s p t y, and a q antity
rev ew of old magazines and i s . I have been thus minute i n detailing the
preparations for the exploration of the primeval ’
44 L ACAD IE .
’ fore of rt of e t l Acadie o st pa anci n , as s me information may be derived by others
be afterwards engaged on similar underw t s aking . ’ L A AC D IE . 4 5
CHAPTER III.
he r u er — a eurs for the Red ver T G ey N nn y —Voy g Ri Winter discomforts Extraordinary vitality of birds — — — Leave Montreal Arrive at Quebec Engage an — Indian Henchman Journey to the Riviere du Loup — The French habitans The Temisquata p ortage — — The black fly The peabody bird Effects of lumber — — — ing Dreadful roads The Little Falls The River ’ — . o s N ew ru sw c S e e e of ou a St J hn , B n i k ttl m nt b nd
r es— rr v h r a i A i e at t e G and F lls .
PRE VIOU SLY to e o t e two re h l aving M n r al , F nc
C o e the e o e es de anadian y ung ladi s , Mad m is ll
Rochblave too o er the re , kindly k us v G y
u e . e re e u o N nn ry In this v ry c ditabl instit ti n , the e or fo s were sick, ag d, phans and undling
refull e e to e e - e ca y att nd d , as w ll as w ak mind d
eo e p pl . In one ward we saw a remarkable ’
4 6 L ACAD IE . — contrast a woman in a constant state of
er o o who ro of s ee n v us agitati n, and , f m want l p
her o e r or to and c ntinu d w ithings, was w n a
e e o o os e to her re e a sk l t n, whilst pp it clin d in
r o do e u or fat chai , in a c nstant s and st p , a
ere of en and florid woman . Th was a want v tilation in the establishment ; this is indeed in the cold months very little attended to in
ne r e er ee er o e er Canada . O ha dly v s s a th m m t
ou e to re u e the e er ure or in a h s g lat t mp at , feels a current of pure air ; of this the children
the re u er o e the in G y N nn y sh w d plainly want ,
et the ro re of e l e e y , with p g ss int l ig nc , this will
no ou r o be e e e d bt e e l ng r m di d . What will
e er the t of hot dr h lp it mat ially, is fac and y stove heat when no water is placed on the
s o e for e ora o e e ru e to t v vap ti n, b ing d st ctiv
e e u femal b a ty .
W e ere ro u e to o e who w int d c d s m nuns,
were abou t to undertake a long and difficult
oe o e u the o the o can v yag p Ottawa, al ng n rth
ore of e u & er or . to e sh s Lak S p i , c , stablish
t e e e ou re o o u h ms lv s, and f nd a ligi us c mm nity at
the i Red er the er e re of d stant Riv , in v y c nt
’ 4 8 L ACAD IE .
o do : o to yet such we were often obliged t als ’ wrap the fur robes of the sleigh ab out one s limbs whilst reading in the evening by the fire.
tore- o e In Canada East we had s h us s, and
ffere oor e from o . su d, in d s, l ss c ld
I was once frost-bitten through b oth ears
fr e who e e after visiting a sick i nd , had h at d 0 h e to his room u p to 8 0 in Janu ary ; t e chang
0 he out-of- oor te er ure 1 6 e ow 0 t d mp at , b l ,
o e the e oo ree occasi n d mischi f, and it t k th
months to repair it .
o e e u e now e e C nn ct d with this s bj ct , I r lat
a very remarkable fact in the Natu ral History of
o the e r or r of Canada , sh wing xt a dina y vitality
D r o e r . een e r a o e . s m bi ds Fift y a s g , wh n
M acCulloch er re e e of , a v y sp ctabl physician
o re re e at . ere e ou twe t M nt al, sid d St Th s , ab t n y
e to the . . of the ou r mil s N W city, a y ng bi d
was found on the snow near a huge pine that had at the time been cut down in the dense
re The f er who fo st . arm had cut down the
tree e the r to o e ere the carri d bi d his h us , wh
o or saw it a few d s after r on the D ct ay wa ds,
6th of r on t o ere t Ma ch, still ly par ially c v d wi h ’
L A CAD IE . 4 9
fe ers fro e r e t be ath , and m its app a anc , it migh e or ten old o e ue the ight days C ns q ntly , process of incubation must have been completed
’ the o h of e ru r en re e in m nt F b a y, wh Fah nh it s
r o er Un for the m ometer was often far b el w z o . tunately this little bird was killied by a eat a few wee f er it or e its n was ks a t was f m d, and ski too r r e u m e mu ch torn to be p ese v d . Its pl ag
of ro o our rom the was a light b wn c l , and f
M acCulloch of the e r account given to D r. app a
e of o er r e r it ou he anc th bi ds n a which was f nd , thou ght it might be the young of the Fri ngilla
L inari a or e er red- o al ou it n ot , l ss p ll , th gh had then the characteristic red spots of the adult bird which is usu ally seen in flocks in that
er neighbourhood every wint .
e r of the o e ot the r u r I h a d ab v , and g pa tic la s from the Doctor himself ; and although what has been now stated may appear to Naturalists
uf e r e ou o e ore s fici ntly ma v ll s, s m thing still m e r or r o e M r e e xt a dina y was c mmunicat d by . D as , the r r eller who re e in the v of A ctic t av , sid s icinity
o re H e M nt al . said that when he was stationed on the e i e er e r the r t r e Mack nz Riv , n a A c ic Ci cl ,
V OL . II . D ’ 50 L A CAD E I .
one of hi s hunters brought him early in March
the nest of fou r fres h eggs of the little black
or o se P aras Ar ti ca i llus w c he cap , titm u ( p ) , hi h
had c e ou d a o - u at a by hanc f n in will w b sh , season when the cold in that r egion is o ften s o
great as to freeze mercury .
Facts su ch as these may n ot hitherto hav e
ee o ce ur s but n e er e e b n n ti d by Nat ali ts , v th l ss
there is reason to think that their occurrence m ay n ot be u ncomm on in m any parts of the
northern forests of Canada ; for some of the
sm all birds winter there as early as the
m onth of February in the condition we find
the British male birds in the hatching season
s has ee o ser e to b th e only . Thi b n b v d e e cas
the ross - Cur vi r os tra ri n with c bill ( Ame ca a . )
ec es s om e ! o er r e es of This sp i , with th va i ti
sm r s re u e t the so r ! ian all bi d , f q n lita y Canad fore ur ter a n d fin d on the tree a n sts d ing win , s
u t u s f t e r ro r ate oo here ab ndan s pply h i app p i f d, w
r the ornithologist oan seldom have ! an oppor
o f o r i ! t eir h tunity bse v ng h abits . Lieutenant S innn ons h ad already gone into the oods “an d ffere re t h r s s w , had su d g a a d hip ’
L ACAD IE . 5 1
H e ee re e to om e e from cold . had b n di ct d c m nc his survey whilst the gr ound was still covered
s o f ro et n wet ro e he with n w, and m g ti g and f z n
i eu e oo s had p erill ed his health . L t nant W d
s o e m e o re he having at la t j in d at M nt al , ( had
b een long prevented coming over from the
e - u r ers of re e r r e h ad q a t his gim nt at Lap ai i , as
n he wre e re u the ice o t . St La nc was b aking p,
er n erou it rr e we and was v y da g s . ) was a ang d
should travel together to the Grand Falls of the
’ o s er ere we ere to eet St . J hn Riv , wh w m
eu e o ere o er e sures Li t nant Simm ns, and th c nc t m a
fo r e u u res e e u e r p os c ting o r p ctiv d ti s . It was n ow n eces sary for m e to leave m y
f was to re ur to uro e amily , which t n E p in
’
. . e e rr roo for H M ship R sistanc , ca ying t ps , it might be a couple of years before I could rej oin
them ; and though the parting was a severe
r et was e e r oul ro ee t ial , y it n c ssa y that I sh d p c d
alo e t o n my destination . Since that time there
has been an infinitely more affiictive parting ; ” the re sorro is so 'difldcult to g at w, which
e r ee e ure h ere i s n ot the e b a , has b n nd d ; plac
’ to ru e o e s r e s et m u we ever sa int d n g i f , y st y,
D 2 5 2 ’ L ACAD IE .
When Thou dost call me to resign — ’ What mo st I prize it ne er was m ine ;
o e T ee w a was e I nly yi ld h h t Thin , ' Thy will be done
o ro w ro da to da C nt l my ill f m y y ,
e w e an d a e awa Bl nd it ith Thin , t k y All that n ow make it hard to say Thy will be done
Lieu tenant Woods and myself n ow proceeded
ere on our way to Quebec by steam . H I re or e e to o o e r o p t d mys lf C l n l Wa d, c mmanding
Ro eer o u e o w yal Engin s, and I c mm nicat d als ith
o o e Eastcourt the o r o s o er C l n l , B unda y C mmis i n , who had acquired considerable experience in the
of o he u manner c nducting a survey in t b sh . W e got a couple of Indians from the settlement of ore e r o o to be L tt , And é and Sim n R main, our en e two e m en o t an d h chm n ; lik ly , st u a e- o e e of u er o n ou t bl b di d, capabl nd g i g any am n of e ul oo r t as m fatigu , skilf in w dc af , and, y m an r er r ro e e to rr And é aft wa ds p v d, abl ca y two hundred weight when necessary ; the other
ere to be ot e followers w g in N w Brunswick . W e started our people for the Riviere du ’
L ACAD IE . 53
o one u re e e ow e e L up, h nd d mil s b l Qu b c, and t e fo o e t o ro o er h n ll w d in a ligh wagg n , c ssing v
to the ou h e of the . re e s t sid St Law nc , and
continuing our progress along its southern
bank .
e o we ro e r At B aum nt b k a sp ing , and had to walk some distance before we could get it
e W e e t er cobbl d again . sl p at B thier (en bas)
er e ou e r e o r at a mis abl inn with d bl cha g s , a d lla
each for a bed and a glass of beer ; an English shilling being the present country charge for a
The e ter we bed . t o n xt night, af a and c ld
we s e the er ue e Mav day, l pt at Riv O ll , and
on the third day we reach ed the Riviere da
ou L p . w w h The ore of the . re e o sh s St La nc , al ng hic
we n ow ro e ere e u e ou es d v , w w ll c ltivat d , and h s
o u o urr e eerfu e t to c ntin ally cc ing, gav a ch l asp c
u r ou the ere du Sud ere the co nt y . Ab t Rivi th
is a great level plain of considerable fertility .
’ we ot o o r r St. A nne s t u o e At , , g a c nt y b k n and picturesque by granite cliffs rising abruptly
fro the ur f e m e e u m s ac , and which ad b autif l ’ 54 B AGA ‘ DIE .
c u re ere so ere ere h pi t s . H al th w t e ex tensive
u s of co e e on r rou a b ilding a ll g a ising g nd,
creditable an d a useful institu tion fo r this part!
f we e o a . o we Canad East As pass d al ng,
o er e ur e on the wet s of the o e bs v d h dl s sand sh r ,
rr e r e o r to e o e the a ang d . in pa all l g ams , ncl s fish
er ere or o se a t high wat . Th is a p p i fishery at
er ue e The o e e ul the Riv O ll . l ng and ch rf vil
e of Kam ouroska fro _ the lag , nting islands in
ro . re e re or e to for sea b ad St Law nc , was s t d
' few f e ro u e e ou bathing by a amili s f m Q b c, th gh
the ere da ou e fur er o Rivi L p b ing th d wn, and h avin g salter and cleaner water seems to be
J I W ore o O m in fashi n .
Fro o e to 1ere du ou we. m P int L vi Riv L p,
were o the or al re o o s the am ng igin F nch c l ni ts,
habi tans the proprietors of the land which
they occupied were the seigneu rs wh o had
obtained grants of it in the time of the French
sovereignty in Canada ; some of the censitaires .
or ten ants paid for their lots an annu al qu it
re of two o rs o u e of e t. nt d lla nly, with a b sh l wh a
a ou e of o and c pl f wls .
6 ’ 5 L ACAD IE .
u der he the n e e in n a s d, whilst baki g tak s plac a clay oven raised on four posts in front of the
o e h us .
The are o o habitans all R man Cath lics, and the c ur e are u er r e or h ch s us ally v y la g , and na m ented ou e t two e r re tsid wi h b lf y Spi s , and
s e w ure of r r u e in id ith gau dy pict s sc iptu al s bj cts . The priests of the last generation did n ot favou r e u o so t t the f er of the re e t d cati n, ha ath s p s n
r e are u e to re r te. o e er ac nabl ad and w i H w v , the progress of in telligence is beginning to be
e t e e o the er o o r t f l v n am ng hith t stati na y habi ans, an d edu cation is becoming diffused among them .
or er er e so rr e e F m ly , a fath , wh n his ns ma i d , gav
e or o of e o o cu th m a p ti n his land , th y als c pying
r of his own or e our a o pa t , a n ighb ing h bitati n .
Now many young French Canadians move a o cu n ew e ro way, and c py land at a distanc f m
wre the banks of the St . La nce ; or remove
o the s er o t er e cou r int Ea t n t wnships , tha f til nt y
et but e re ed o e on the as y littl app ciat , b und d
ou h the e of New or er o s t by Stat s Y k, V m nt , and
ew re N Hampshi .
Though I do not believe that the French ’
L A CAD IE . 57
f the o the o . re e Canadians al ng banks St Law nc , now throw the manure from their stables into the r er e are for er to e iv , as th y said m ly hav
o e vet e r r the e o of d n , th i fa ming, in stimati n
o e who are o er Sc tchm n , fastidi us in this matt ,
ow of re ro e e ee er would all g at imp v m nt . D p plou ghing where the soil admits of it would be
e er ree the o rom o e re t b tt ; f ing s il f st n s , and g a attention to drainage ; the last that grand im
ro e e o er u r on p v m nt in m d n h sband y, which my
r e of D eanston o r e so f i nd M r . Smith disc u s s s c e i ntifically .
There is a great deal of politeness among the
re e r e e our 1s F nch Canadians, and th i d m an mild ,
e ur courteous and pl asing . D ing the summer
o ro to o e er e e m nths, f m May N v mb , th y hav
u r or out of oor the er m ch ha d w k d s, and in wint t e one o er e e r ennui h y visit an th , and disp l th i
the e o e with pip , with knitting and making cl th s , and enliven their evenings with the violin and the dance . The village of Riv1ere du Loup is cheerfully situated on high grou nd at the mouth of the r e o he o er and o r o t . re e iv , v l king br ad St Law nc ,
D 3 ’
58 L ACAD IE . beyond which are seen the mountains of
a r ere ere are c es for Labr do . H th fa iliti making
oo r our for e m ers e a g d ha b st a and small v ssels . The distance from Quebec on e hun dred and ten
e e o e e for er few mil s , b ing c nv ni nt bath s , a respectable families come down every summer to refresh with salt water and breathe the
- e ere ere two sea side air . At this plac th w small but respectable hotels for their accomm o
o dati n . We were here j oined by ou r two assistant
h to e o s ur e ors M r . u o w o v y , F lt n, was a c m
eu e t o o M r M acGill pany Li t nan W ds ; and . (whom I had selected at Montreal) to ao
om a e w e we oul e e u c p ny mys lf, h n sh d v nt ally
e r e ou ou re rom s pa at r spective du ties . F
h e in M r . o es t e c m an of u s ess J n , hi f b in
the e we rece ve u e in plac , i d m ch h lp
making our arran gem ents for our further
progress .
The u sual great difficulties of the Temis quata
or e or the ea ro the i v ere p tag , l ding f m R i du
ou o ar New ru r s ent L p t w ds B nswick, its apid a c s
an d e e are re e rom the d sc nts, inc as d in May f ’
L ACAD IE . 59
melting of the snow W e were obliged there
fore to distribute the party among a nu mb er of
c ec e e r s to et ou rse e and al h s and littl ca t , g lv s
b aggage to the Temisqu ata Lake S oon after
e the e we saw on our e t a l aving villag , l f
' r c the all of the ere du ou cata a t , F s Rivi L p, which here leapt over a precipice of about eighty
eet e on e ro e u i n f in h ight, in b ad whit t mbl g
e she t .
the Riwere er e w ere we ou our At V t , h f nd
e es the oo s ere o for the s lv in w d , th is a t ll
or e old ur - e e ser e t p tag , and an c ly h ad d j an ,
e re e ere c r e of nam d Slight , had sid d th in ha g
h o s n e 1 8 1 5 H e n ot o a of t e p st i c . did c mpl in
his os o ou h he s was s o e ev e p iti n, th g aid it l at d that he b elieved there was frost there every
the e r has ee ice . o l r day in y a , and s n a d l a
u ill ere ere n o os u oe thick in J ly ; st th w m q it s ,
he had ou at o er os ere he. as f nd an th p t, wh had
ee or e ed u er es en b n t m nt in s mm with fli , and th
half smothered with th e smoke requ ired to
u ue e s bd th m .
e e the o o o u o ere is in B sid s c mm n m sq it , th these woods the real pest of the North A m e ’
60 L A CAD IE .
r ore the fl —a erou ican f sts , black y, small dipt s
e h e e s w ins ct wit black and whit l g , hich I
e ore u U e the o u o it b f all ded to . nlik m sq it
in o e o e ou no e attacks wh l c v ys , and with t is ,
its e er o o ou e u the and bit is v y p is n s , sw lling p fore e e the e r rou the h ad, b hind a s , and nd
e t e et o e r . e er w ists Wh r v h y can g an p ning,
S en squ ads of them settle like dust shot . tr e the oo — s the e i s in w ds, and thi was cas
e e r ere we n ow tr e e —were lat ly n a wh av ll d, obliged to go on their p osts with a hand
er ef ro n o er t e r e o er k chi th w v h i h ads , c v ing
o e r re e e e r t alm st all th i g as d fac and a s , whils pine torches were stuck in the ground beside
e to r e r o e to ee th m and windwa d, by th i sm k k p
o e r or e or d wn th i t m nt s .
I n ow heard for the first time the peabody
r o i e s e e. so bi d, wh s call lik its nam It is al
e the n on - o o e of er call d c mmissi n d fic , as its
“ note is like that of one calling for pen
en and en but and ink, p ink, p and ink I think its real note is like these syllables “ w s e he hu he hehuhu hehuhu hi tl d, , , , , , ” , h h h m e o e e the New e u u . I nti n this b caus ’ 1 L A CAD IE . 6
B runswick woodmen has this small bird for his
o s o o u er he oo c n tant c mpani n all s mm , and s n
e its e r eers him d lights in simpl st ain , which ch
l in ll S leafy solitude.
With great labou r we got the first night
w s e r s er w ere e . o to S t. F anci Riv , h l pt Sn w
the oo s er ru e i n tor lay in w d , and wat sh d re o the e o er the ro nts al ng sid s and v ad , and
e e or it was vid nt that this iginal Indian path,
o er e o ro for ee e rr e c nv t d int a ad wh l d ca iag s , ought as soon as p ossible to cease to be a part
of the line of communication for the mails
e ee ue e b tw n Q b c and Halifax . W e took the same time as the mail does
e e e our to o er r -six in May, l v n h s , pass v thi ty miles from the Riviere du Loup to the Temis
e The ro ro e ou be qu ata Lak . ad in p fil w ld
o e rr th e represented as a l ng jagg d Sie a . At Lake we were very comfortably hou sed in
the os e of M r e e w o e e small h t l . Lab ll , h s wif
re r fin e e e of o oo was a ma kably sp cim n w manh d,
’ and Madame s hou se was as clean as she was
- good looking .
Temisquata Lake is a fine large sheet of ’
62 L ACAD IE .
w ter twe e o it is ee o t s a nty mil s l ng ; d p , c n ain
e of fish ere are s ou o pl nty , and th hill ab t it , d wn the e s r e of w c rus h w d vall y and avin s hi h , in s which occasion su dden and dangerous agita t o : the r ers o er in i n in da k wat ; many v yag s ,
u ous a in e e ee u et and ca ti ly s iling th m , hav b n ps
e drown d .
ere e or on the e Th is a palisad d w k Lak ,
ort In all for two u re m en e ter F g , h nd d , nam d af
he e r o u i t activ staff office who c nstr cted t. The s ergeant in charge said that the snow fell
ere e e u es ter th in imm ns q antiti in win , and s u e ur e as ere r e s h t th m in, b i d it w in da kn s ; bu t in the op en months there was plen ty of
oo rou the. re s u e of a re g d t t in st am , ab ndanc h s
r r e l o eo s the ue err and pa t idg s , a s pig n in bl b y season Whilst standing on the shore of the Lake I saw something which might serve to damp
’ one s taste for wood life : a m an was m ending a
o e he ee o e o t s u er can , had b n s m m n h l mb ing in the us on e he was ore b h , and living salt m at s
rou n his u were e and all d back, his g ms whit his
ee loo . e r t th s from scu vy .
’ 64 L AC D A IE . would hold up one leg bent to let the water run out of their boot tops ; yet they managed to get forward their vehicles without material inj ury to the e baggag .
il e M r B the D e é we . laicklock At g f ll in with , the ur or of eute t m o assistant s vey Li nan Sim ns . H e had come ou t of the bu sh and was proceed
o e ing to the Riviere du L up for mon y . H e was well got up as a woodsmen for appearance
the e e e e r e red at s ttl m nts ; w a ing a glaz d hat, s r re o em ro ere I hi t, g y cl thing , b id d ndian sash ,
er e e in e t e silv hilt d knif his b l , and pip in his
u - l i u re o o e M r. B a cklock b tt n h l . has acq i d an excellent reputation as a hardy explorer and an
e e e or H e re e een int llig nt surv y . has c ntly b employed at the Red River in the Royal
eer e r Engin d pa tment .
ro the D e ilé to the e s o the F m g Littl Fall , al ng
M adawasca ere was er oo ro for , th a v y g d ad t e -fou r e t t e e to the r w nty mil s, whils h nc G and
’ of the o er r - es Falls St . J hn s Riv , thi ty six mil , strange to say there was n o road at all ; the
er the ro oe the e s Riv was ad and a can , m an of r or the t e l the t ansp t . At Li tl Fal s, Mada ’ p 60 L ACAD IE . wesca River rushes bright and clear over a ledge of rocks immediately before it u nites its
’ of th o waters with the noble stream e St . J hn s
l o t oo e r e or VVa loostook River. A st u w d n b idg of on e arch spanned the M adawasca over the
s co uc e to u re oc - ouse on Fall , and nd t d a sq a bl k h
ro r e w o er oo e the urrou a cky idg , hich v l k d s nd
cou r ree s oo the o o of ing nt y, tall t s t d at b tt m
the r d e ou ere o e c e r i g , and th gh th was s m l a ing
’ e r the ee of the er few n a m ting wat s , and a
ou es et the s e rou h s , y in di tanc and all nd was
the e e fore ndl ss black st . If a substantial lock and dam were con
ru e the e the M adawasca st ct d at Littl Falls ,
River might easily be rendered navigable to the
Temisqu ata Lake ; the River and Lake would
u e ou or -fi e e o th s giv ab t f ty v mil s of navigati n . From the head of the Lake it might n ot be
f u to cu t of ten i es or e di fic lt a canal m l , hav a
or r -ro to ee the ro s o e er sh t ail ad m t T is Pi t l s Riv ,
u the w ers o th wre e e and th s at f e St . La nc b ing united with those of the Bay of Fu ndy (whilst a short canal of half a mile passed round the
Grand Falls) the dangers of the Gulf of St . ’ 66 L ACAD IE ;
re ce o d be o ded an d safe ter Law n w ul av i , a wa
communi cation of four hu ndred and fifty- four
’ i to ue e es a e from . o t mil s, St J hn s C y Q b c t
blished ur six or seve m on of the , d ing n ths
year .
The sergeant in charge of the block- house
complained of the dearness of provisions : at
t e the e or ten e e his tim at Littl Falls, p k was p nc
rre ou re five e e u e of cu ncy a p nd, b ad p nc a b sh l
6 . u e 13 the o oe 2 3 . d r . a p tat s , b tt Whilst Mad
e a old of re or w sc man, an Acadian F nch igin, who paddled Lieutenant Woods and myself
’ o the S t o t o w to the d wn . J hn s, said, tha ing
e r e of oo ere he his f l ate d a n ss f d th , and ami y
nothing bu t brown rye-bread all the year round : the oor re e re loo e p man, d ss d in g y, k d thin and
'
WOI I] .
W e ere now N ew ru w in B nswick , and navi
’ its o or r er the o gating m st imp tant iv , St . J hn s . ° It rises in ab out 7 0 West longitude close to
he he t N W . angle of t State of Maine ; its
i fir ourse E . e S . s st N . S E l it c , th n , and , ti l ' f o the of u the of alls int Bay F ndy at City St .
’ For e le John s . ighty mi s up w Frederictown, ’ L ACAD IE . 67
ste m er oo ers v e the er a s and sch n na igat riv , and barges go one hu ndred and twenty miles higher
to the foo of the r ll up, t G and Falls , and a sma steamer has lately been constructed to go. as far as the Falls als o . Between the Grand and Little Falls are the
e e e e e ere 1 8 3 Acadian S ttl m nts stablish d h in 7 , the settlers amou nt to u pwards of three thousand ; they live in small wooden hou ses
’ ere o the o the o : scatt d al ng banks f St . J hn s I observed also a small church on the left bank of
e r e e e are the e e th iv r. Th s Acadians d sc ndants of o e e r re e er who con unc th s a ly F nch s ttl s , , in j t o w the d s ere o u ur i n ith In ian , w c ntin ally b ning and laying waste the English S ettlements on the
’ o er ho h . o w e t e sh l w St J hn s , and , wh n Engli
ot the er ere re o e to er g mast y, w m v d a saf
t e T o e ou the M adawas ca e dis anc . h s ab t b ing more shut ou t from the world than their French
a re he re on t . re e ee Can dian b th n St Law nc , s m to be es te e t u en l s in llig n and industrio s . Wh the N E ou r . b nda y was finally settled by the
s urto . rea of the M adawasca se er A hb n t ty, half ttl s,
’ or os e on! the r t h S t oh s of t e . th igh bank J n , ’
68 L ACAD IE .
r e e er c e t necessa ily b cam Am ican itiz ns . I will be a curiou s subj ect for inquiry a few years
e e t has ee the effe of h nc , wha b n ct this
r fer t ans . There had been for some time a very trou ble
o e ff r to rr e u r er viz —the s m a ai a ang in this q a t ,
b ou ndaries of Canada East and of New Bru ns
w For ere e the ick . Canada th was claim d
cou ntry as far as Mars Hill across to Moose
ou e e to ou e on the M ntain , and th nc Dalh si Bay of eur ls for New r was Chal . Whi t B unswick
° claimed the cou ntry as high nearly as 4 9 of
or u e e e ou e ter n th latit d , th nc in a s th w s ly
re o to o os e ue e or t the di cti n pp it Q b c, in sh t, wha Americans claimed previou sly to the Ashburton
he res e ri of treaty . T p ctive claims of Canada a d New B runswick were founded on the interpre tation put on a Royal Proclamation in 1 7 63
the u e e of 1 4 re to the and Q b c Act 77 , lating
e the er f Highlands , which divid wat s which all
o the . Lawrence and o e o int St , _ th s which fall int the The r ci e ee e Atlantic . p in pl which s m d to govern the British Government in settling the boundaries of its American provinces was to
‘ ’
70 L ACAD IE .
r u s fter a n d t e e o an we saw g ad ally wi , h n b l w Q the well-known signs of a cataract - white
o r- ou s re ro the r er r i vap u cl d st tching ac ss iv , is ng an d sub n in o u t o sidi g, and dicating , in c nj nc i n
e s ou n reat f wi a u a er al . th d ll, h avy d, a g w t l
’ ere ‘ t n er o er re The St. John s h hu d s v a p cipitou s ledge of rocks into a de ep basin s even ty feet
e o ure u e cr e co ne the b l w, pict sq ags th n nfi wildly r s r er for m le the nk are u hing iv half a i , ba s o er u woo s e o t e th e v h ng with ds , whil t b l w h m
re o o er uc es on of r The st am f ams v a s c si apids . Grand Falls are well deserving of a visit from the er t o ris an d ere too r o Am ican u t , h , , will p
oo ri e the o e e t re e t bably s n s c nt mplat d ci y, c n ly
ou t of o e r oo e so e er the a e laid , C l b k , nam d aft l t
er e e o er or of New ru v y stimabl G v n B nswick,
Sir i o e roo e CB K . H Will am C l b k , . . ’
L ACAD IE . 7 1
— Lieutenant Simmons Timb er going over the Grand — — — Falls The lu mb er -m en The creeping -irons A trial — — survey The mistaken surveyor H ow Indians climb — — — — trees An escape Witch p oles A sku nk Leave — — the Grand Falls Rou gh travelling The region of
’ eaver &c —A u er s r e—Th e roos o o b , . h nt b id A t k — — — Effects of lumb ering Woodstock Accidents The
’ h oh —F d r ton— rra Valley of t e St . J n s re e i c A nge my
ar for the fo s —F a a acc e — eac p ty re t t l id nt R h St .
’ o s c J hn ity .
AT this time at the Grand Falls there were
onl our or five o se the r one e y f h u s, p incipal b ing
’ o we o to the u er-m en C stigan s Inn , ll kn wn l mb
’ h e of ue f t e . ir o o o . S St J hn s J hn Caldw ll, Q
bec ri of e u o an d e er r e , in a spi t sp c lati n nt p is ,
the had attempted formerly !to dam the river at ’
72 L ACAD IE .
for the r o e of ere t saw- Falls, pu p s c ing mills , as he so often o e e e ere but too had d n ls wh , it was — ’ u for the . o ro e rr e m ch him St J hn s s , and ca i d away his works over the Falls but his lab ours there originated a hamlet.
W e fou nd Lieutenant Simmons waiting for
H e re e o us at the Grand Falls . had c ntly c me out of the ore t v rr e e or o F s , ha ing ca i d his xpl ati n from the Riviére du Loup towards the Green
R er . H e oo e ro e re iv l k d st ng and w ll, in his g y
o axe on his oul er f er r c at and sh d , a t his ha d
e r work . H very ca efully explained the nature of his o er o to e u s e er p ati ns us , and gav v y
or o e H is t e inf mati n in his pow r . al nts and intelligence have n ow procured for him the appointment of Government Inspector of Rail ro in ads England .
’ the ere the U er . o o t In pp St J hn s, wh m s valu able forests were abandoned to the A meri cans in the settlement of the boundary-s (which
’ e he u or u not t e of the St. o nf t nat ly was lin J hn s, but o er e rer the re e —I c nsid ably n a St . Law nc ) m e t o e fore o t the D aa uem s e an h s sts ab u q , E s
anetsacook er the erer g , and Black Riv s, lumb s ’ L A CAD I E . 73
o tru t r of er co em as c ns c afts timb , ac mpany th far as it s a e o e the s en is f ab v Fall , and th
was ere to abandon them . It int sting watch
e o o er the s re e th m g v Fall , inc asing in swiftn ss
o r the r of the re ce e o e t wa ds b ink p cipi , th n c m s the u e the e r ce e ow o pl ng , and disapp a an b l am ng the our s r ur o of w r e e . r vap , p ay, and t m il at s Aft the re e r e of the s e r e o so e app a anc pa at l gs , m hurried round and ro und in a great cauldron u er the r of the r er w ere u nd ight bank iv , h m ch
u e er was e rou to e es val abl timb b ing g nd pi c ,
er o e s c s r s on e log against anoth . S m ti k th u t o er to the e e of the r s e all ou th s dg apid , th n w ld turn and circle along with the great broken
e r o e es raft always seen in th cauld on . S m tim a single log would rise from the b ottom of the
r on en d w ou t of the cata act, and , and half ay
er ou ere r o the wat , w ld walk, as it w , g andly d wn r fo ce apids r a considerable distan .
It was calculated that worth of timber were annu ally destroyed at the Grand
a for w of c rou e . F lls, ant a anal nd th m It s eemed to m e that it would be very desirable
V . II E OL . ’ 74 L ACAD IE . to have a b oom placed at an angle above the
F to e the o s the ro er re o alls, giv l g p p di cti n , and cau se them to avoid a great rock in the centre;
c of em ru were against whi h many th st ck , and split ; which would also help to keep them . ou t of the cauldron .
‘ The rocks at the Grand Falls are very highly
c r n o inclined blueish cal a eous slates . I think fossils have been seen in them ; they are a t least.
u r ro o er ll . Sil ian, p bably ld sti
’ The people we found at C ostigan s Inn were rou ur - oo u erer gh and st dy l king l mb s , waiting
for e o e or who o e out of the mpl ym nt, had c m
woo s to refre or ore ro er to e d sh , m p p ly hav
“ ’ r ree he ere re e a d ink, and a sp . T y w d ss d ‘ u su ally in red flannel shirts (there is a virtue in
the d e of red o e u ro er . eou y ) , h m sp n t ws s; and . a p
l r oo e ke of re or ree the ee es of ia l s jac t g y g n , sl v
w are “ r hich made like those of a . shi t; whilst the
co n er o ' f the e are t e . rou the r s jack t . i d nd waist
w tr e r e ith s ings . On th i h ads they wore straw
or ow e o r e fe e r ee ere l nd c a s lt hats, and th i f t w
en e “ ro m occassins or e f cas d in b wn , h avy hal ’
L A CAD IE . 75
the m oc assin or oo s e re e c . oo fur b t w ll g as d, b t nishing a ready napkin after a meal of salt p ork
and biscuit . The lu mb erers made a considerable racket at the o e ke ou r or tr e h st l, tal d l d, sang, d ank, i d
“ ” their strength by putting a heavy stone in front of the door
W e rr e ree the r ta i d th days at G and Falls,
c e on ee rou h ro the ere living hi fly b f, b g t f m Rivi
u On e r du o . e o L p day it ain d c nstantly, and
we ou do n o out-of- oor or W e occu c ld d w k .
pied ourselves in writing : when it was fair we
o u on t e W e co r d were c ntin ally h m ove . mpa e
our ru e and ou the r o of the inst m nts, f nd va iati n
compass by double altitu des of the sun with the f eo ol e . W e ot e e or u r th d it g lin n bags mad s ga ,
an d a e o e for tea o ree - ro fl nn l n s , als c ping i ns ,
o h oo u t ascend t e trees and l k o t.
ese irons are of e r o ru o e Th . p culia c nst cti n ; th y
e h ar e t e e er are flat o t . one lik l tt L, , and ab u
ro the ee re t on the o er art . two inch b ad ; f t s l w p ,
leather straps bind the irons round the mid-leg
’
. . he es o er the erer oo s . t and ankl , v lumb s b t At
o o of e the o le of. the b tt m l ng g L, which r sts E 2 ’
L A CAD IE .
the er rt of the le is sh r against inn pa g, a a p
e e of 4 5 e rees s s u spik at an angl d g , thi is t ck
o the r of the ree e the of int ba k t , lik claw a
e s s e e the c er em wild b a t, and thu nabl s limb ,
r the ree w r to re the b acing t ith his a ms , ach
r e w e ere no ur er o o for b anch s, h n th is f th ccasi n
the irons .
ree row h ore are e o T s g ing t ickly in a f st , d v id of branches for a considerable height from the
rou o e es or ee the s of the g nd, s m tim f ty f t ; mas
r e is o r the to ere e ee b anch s t wa ds p, wh th y s k
i n ot unu to light and a r . It is an sual thing
’ ‘ lose one s way in the woods, when ascending the es ree e r o er o is a e high t t n a , an bs vati n t k n
ro its to ro erh s ow f m p, and f m it p ap a kn n
e is e cr e or re to u e on e h ight d s i d, a st am , g id
e e e r for the out of th difficulty . It is n c ssa y
ur e or o to e ree to tr dis s v y als asc nd t s , y and
o er the es e to e for ro he c v b t lin tak a ad, may b ree e preparing to run throu gh the forest . C p in - ron s are o u se ul to er-m en to g i als f lumb , e n e e to over es of e or abl th m disc patch pin ,
ot er er su e for e r u r ose . h timb , itabl th i p p Lieutenant Woods having engaged his party
’ 8 ’ 7 L ACAD IE .
e ree ro u s w o ere the mapl t s und , and hich c v d
o e ou tr on e er s e w ou eem wh l c n y v y id , it ld s
impossible to conduct a survey through t hem
ur or to re r with any acc acy, ach any pa ticular
N ew ru distant point . B nswick is a v ast ocean
of ree ro w the o one t s , th ugh hich c mpass can al
u e The ou r e re u re to e e g id us . c s q i s b w ll cal fculated o on or c r at , and laid d wn a map ha t ,
Tl he ou e ' o e for r o an d ts t, making all wanc va iati n , great care mu st s ubsequently be taken in fol
o the e l wing determined course . A gr at mis take had b een made s ometime b efore by a c ivil s ur e or who e er o e e f or the v y , was ith inc mp t nt
he u er o or e e His d u o r c re ss . task nd t k, v y a l ty
was to run a line for a road throu gh a part of
ahe ore of New ru sw o ar s the F st B n ick, t w d
e he e out he ou American lines . Wh n cam f nd
“ he was n o less than thirty miles south of the
o he eere for he was so u p int had st d , and m ch
di s us e s e of h e t ab g t d and a ham d ims lf, hat, an
o eo e ru e he f ed d ning his p pl and his inst m nts , l ,
e re n ‘ e e and disapp a d i th S tat s .
f e our - re of or s A t r mid day past p k and bi cuit, we put on t he creeping irons and practised ’
L ACAD IE . 7 9
i ree e e r or oo e ers climb ng t s lik b a s w dp ck , and
er o e ractice ' we ot o the of aft s m p , g int way it .
‘ Our Indians showed how they climb ed trees to get to the branches ; they first cu t a notch
e r axe n ot far ro the rou d en with th i , f m g n , th drove their ax e into the trunk as high as they
oul re c u e e e es u the c d a h, and ha l d th ms lv p by
e e r toe re e in the o e handl , till th i st d n tch, th y then out other notches and hauled themselves
her e re e the r c e hig again, till th y ach d b an h s .
“ o e e e e a ree let o S m tim s th y f ll t , and it fall sl ping
s o er w e to s e e again t an th hich th y wish a c nd , th y
h The ou then mou nt t e inclined plane . y ng m en s ometimes practice gettin g u p a tree with
o a e c ru c o the rk a t m hawk in a h hand, st k int ba
er e b e e o re res re alt nat ly hind, which m th d qui g at
e str ngth and agility .
f er we re ur e fro our r ur e A t t n d m t ial s v y,
ere was ou of r ro the r er th a sh t ala m f m iv , and
on oo . out to see the u se of it l king what was ca ,
o ser e on lo o e the l a man was b v d a g, ab v Fal s ,
fo H e ot too e r the paddling r his life. had g n a
e re of the rea an d e e to c nt st m , was b ing sw pt
e ru o rus to d st cti n . There was immediately a h ’
8 0 L ACAD I E .
the re ue two c oe ou t sc , and an s put and saved
i But eed e eo e do n h m . h l ss p pl ot always escape
w r o ere be ter w . h , as will af a ds sh n
There is a singular story connected with the
’ U er s re r - . o o e . is pp St J hn , ga ding witch p l s It
eu e an m o s e this . Li t n t Si m n had lat ly b een in a c oe w old u er on on e of the an ith an Indian h nt ,
es of the . r er e c e lak St F ancis Riv , and th y am to two s oo ree o e ou r h m th and g n p l s , with t b anc or e re ro ut of the bot l af, and appa ntly g wing o
om e too e ee o e er t ; th y s d ight f t ab v wat . On
ou the e was fou to be r s nding , d pth nd thi ty
ee on on e o e the o er o f t, and shaking p l , th als
e u er ese o e had ee m oved . Th h nt said th p l s b n
ere e his c oo w s oo th sinc hildh d, and al ays had t d there since two witches came u p the lake to
fish ru s e r o es to the o o , and th ting th i p l b tt m
to m e s e r c oe e row ak fa t th i an , th y had g n there ! Lieutenant Simm ons had recently lost an
entire su it of clothes from the following cau se ;
he and one of his m en had slept in a des erted
’ s or u erer s hut a ur e hanty l mb , and h ving dist b d a skunk there in the m orning (the M ephi tis ’ 8 1 L ACAD IE .
Ameri can a w e u u c e fur , ith b a tif l bla k and whit
u s o e e su o our o er and b hy tail) , it c nv y d ch an d v the c o e on re c the re t of the l th s, that a hing s
r so e ec e s c o er fled the pa ty, m b am i k and th s ; entire dress was washed and buried in the
rou d b ut o ou re o e the abom i g n , n thing w ld m v
e o e er w ro nabl taint ; h w v , an Indian ith a st ng s o was to e the c o e as t mach, glad tak l th s a
rese p nt . Leaving Lieu tenants Simmons and Woods at the r a s to o on w t e r wor G and F ll , g i h th i k, I m ou nted a waggon drawn by three horses (a u or on c oun of the ro ro nic n) , a c t bad ads in p s
ect w ss s - su rvevor the p , and ith my a i tant and
A n dre we ro ee e on our wa ow r Indian , p c d d y t a ds
re er o w ere to e u r . F d ict n , h I was mak p my pa ty
W e had n ot gone far b efore we came to a
err e bill the e des e es the t ibl , at Rapid F mm ;
’ ro o th o s ee e to e ee ad al ng e St . J hn s m d hav b n
e e e of all sc e e . u ow mad in d fianc i nc , viz p and d n the r e o e to the r er ste of avin s , and cl s iv , in ad
’ d etours o e e making and av iding st ep pitch s .
W e ere soo o e to u out w w n blig d j mp and alk, and on the ascent André ran behind the waggon
E 3 ’
8 2 L ACAD IE .
o e to e u er the ‘ ee re with a p l , plac nd wh l, and p
e v nt the waggon running down hill . Our rou and r e r ver to us bu t gh agg d d i was civil , very severe on his poor horses his W ey oh ” we ! was o e t e ere flo in s y acc mpani d wi h s v gg g , but the e s or the le er e e whip b ing h t , ad scap d, u e s the r er u e off ran o e nl s d iv j mp d and al ngsid ,
o c the e fl gging him, alling him all whil , a d d lazy old curse
e ere re oo b ut e ve ere Six mil s w p tty g d, tw l w execrable we plou ghed through m u d axle deep on on e e w the d r er o u the sid , hilst iv h lding p
ee on the o er we t rew our e e on the wh l th , h s lv s
'
. m et u er e to re e u e . W e o pp sid , p v nt ps tting nly
‘ one m a n ro cur os s e his a e (f m i ity I a k d n m , it
ou the o e e ee es to was Y ng) , wh l way, ight n mil , t he roo oo ! err sthou h the was v er A st k F y, g land y “ ” e el e the b e er f the w orse r oa s xc l nt , tt land, d , and it was one c ontinued scene of flogging t he
u or u a e e s f o one end of the e to nf t n t b ast , r m stag
er the oth .
The leaves were 1 only beginning t o app ear on
the t ree a n d fro rhei hts we s aw e a r o s, m g w ll c ss
’ the S t Joh s a re the s o osite r d es . n , and dmi d pp i g ’
L ACAD IE . 8 3
of r oo ne ro se of thriv ha d w d and pi , giving p mi
e o s ing future settlements . B y nd thi and to
u the u er r c es of h h E . o t t e r s t e N . wa d , ab pp b an h
Risti ou che are the of New ru g , Highlands B ns w a re o u o e e to few u er ick, gi n nkn wn xc pt a h nt s,
c es re to e ore of and which I mu h d i d xpl , a land
ou a r of e e ores s m nt in and c ag, ntangl d f t and ru s re s ou e w ere shing t am , ab nding in gam , and h the beaver still p erseveringly constru cts its dam
an d bu ilds its lodge. A white hunter, whose friends lived near
w ere we n ow ere s e the os of his e h w , p nt m t tim
on the U er Risti ou che he rou in pp g , and b ght
ro e to e re r e of e f m tim tim , g at va i ty gam , as
oose Cariboo eer e r racoon fm arti n m and d , b a , , ,
- wo fox orcu e u s rat e er &c . H e lf, , p pin , m k , b av ,
e e to sel ou fe had lat ly tak n him f a y ng Indian wi , to go with him into the woods and wilds and
mend his m occassins and snow-shoes but after
she e re at the e le e she had tast d b ad s tt m nts , preferred to boil the pot with the parents of the
er so he ro e e o e. hunt , and am d and camp d al n At the Aroostook Ferry we passed the wag
on o er in s er e ow or flat- o o e g v a mi abl sc , b tt m d 8 4 ’ L A CAD IE .
o the er erou s o er the es b at, wat dang ly lipping v sid , b t u we got to a comfortable inn on the other side .
The roos oo er w c ows rou A t k Riv , hi h fl th gh a mountainous and forest tract of the State of
ne an d w ere ere were erce co s Mai , h th fi mbat
e wee the r s er u erer b t n B iti h and Am ican l mb s , w s s r of the err or was di s u e hil t thi pa t t it y in p t ,
e u of er er was at this tim f ll Am ican timb .
er u the er u erer who was Aft sal ting mast l mb , sup erintending his sturdy people at work among
’ the o r e th e r e o es l gs , afting th m , wi th i pik d p l , or ffs s es I e him w ga , and hand pik , ask d hat
u of er he ou had o e ow q antity timb , th ght , g n d n
s r o e s c u ou s er : thi Sp ing, and I btain d thi a ti s an w
’ There s a pretty considerable of timber gone
w r o I ec o . d n, k n
The n ew r er we ro u re ere was d iv p c d h , a tall and we - oo ou n e o or e ll l king y g f ll w, Y k by nam , well kn own to the officers qu artered in New
B runswick ; he was a good cross between the
r ee w ot on his orses B itish and Yank hip, and g h “ we ou u s e a ou t te ll, with t p ni hm nt , by c lling p ” l the o r o for et u o lang c nt acti n g p, g
) alo P The ro s ere not er oo as ng ad w v y g d,
’
8 6 L ACAD IE .
e as u sh e m e for the e e twic m ch as did , sam m als ” and lodging . After leaving Woods tock by what was called the a o o o e o o e o cc mm dati n stag , a l ng p n wagg n,
o e se ers we n ot ro ee e h lding nin pas ng , had p c d d far e ore we m e to e ce b r e , b f ca a d s nt and a idg o er ee r e e the r er v a d p avin , wh n d iv , standing u w the re o s r e to o p ith ins in b th hand , t i d st p “ ” or e ru off bu t W 0 we l his h s s nning , his , y was of n o use : they rattled down the descent at e r u r e it oo a our re h a f a f l at , and t k aw y b at and theirs b efore they were pulled up on the r se the er e is the u o to i at oth sid . It c st m
spring hors es o n tthe level b efore makin g an
e a n d to e e u f- at s ee : asc nt, tak th m p hal way p d ” ere e s ru e e e h th y p ng th ms lv s .
What mex t happened t o u s was the breaking of the rn e s Eel River w c e e us ha s at , hi h d lay d
e era ou r e ur er on the o e ro e s v l h s th n, f th , p l b k ,
w we were n e r e o a - by hich a ly pitch d int ditch .
A farm er ter o e d e a e u r e e , af s m l y and d m , h lp d
’ o e le us to r o . s ree t he an th p At Lang C k,
“ bridge ‘ had b een carried away by the freshets of ’ L ACAD IE . 8 7
‘ r we e e to cro on r t e Ap il , and ssay d ss a af mad of oo e re on o s ro c l s planks sting l g , th ugh whi h
the er u e u ou on e oo . wat b bbl d p ab t f t At last ,
’ after a very hard day s work of rough and
u e tr ell we r eached re er o the t mbl av ing, F d ict n ,
capital of New Brunswick . h h The valley of the S t. Jo n\ presents t e app earance of two or three terraces of d eluvi um
“ r fro the r er to oo e e w ising m iv w d d h ights , hich
o er o see e the o e v l ok it . It m d as if wh le vall y
or er ee the b ed of e e had f m ly b n a lak , damm d up by the rocks which remain at the mou th of
the r er r he Joh n ‘ n o e e t of S t. w iv , wh city \
stands ; that by convolu tions of nature occa
o re the the er sub si ning b aks in dam, wat had
‘ e ro on e e e to o er for su c sid d, f m l v l an th , ming
eessive t err es ll o u e o its re e ac , ti it cc pi d nly p s nt “ ” bed . The er al or int v land , that which is
u overflowed of the r c es ' de still ann ally , is i h t
! cr o e v ' ro are r e on it -or s ipti n, and h a y c ps ais d , it
e o e as e is mpl y d pastur .
e i ur l i n 1 n e r un B hind a nat a dam , ma y plac s
n o the ‘ of the r er the roun i s ing al ng bank iv , g d
ower t a the ur e o f the er e se l h n s fac wat , b cau ’ 8 L 8 ACAD IE .
e the r er o er o o s o u o wh n iv v fl ws , it h ld in s l ti n , the e er r e of so e e h avi pa ticl s il, and h aps th m near its bed .
re er c o e on Sir Gu r e o F d i t n was fix d by y Ca l t n,
the se of o er e 1 8 5 as at G v nm nt in 7 , it is placed on a level site opposite the mouth of the
h u e o e e of the Nas wa k, and ncl s d by a b nd
’ The s u o er s o . e t St . J hn s it ati n is v y pl a an
eer u w t air of u e e e and ch f l, hils an q i t and p ac
re or us the e e e p vails ; in sh t, it is j t plac wh r
u e e e or be e to rr a s sc ptibl bach l might lik ly ma y .
The s ree s are re u r the ou e are t t g la , and h s s
The o u o of wood or brick . p p lati n is ab out
our o s . o er e ou e f th u and G v nm nt H s , standing
o e d s e ro the o n is s e s m i tanc f m t w , a mas iv s ru ure of o e : is s u e r t ct st n it it at d in a pa k, and e ce e r e are e to s w x ll nt ga d ns attach d it, pa t hich the r er ru w oo e e are on iv ns, hilst w d d h ights
’ e er s e s o le e e o e ith id . King C l g , nd w d with six
ou res of d oc u e e e e e th sand ac lan , c pi s an l vat d sit overlooking the town ; it is a stone building of
The o e sor e imposing appearance. pr f s s hav
ee e e e w re the t u o e b n s l ct d ith ca , and ins it ti n giv s promise of conferring great benefits on the
’ ‘ 90 L ACAD IE .
‘ assist m e in forming my party in the m ean time .
At er o su e e 1 er e this p i d, and bs qu ntly, d iv d great pleasure and mu ch information from t he
’ oc e of ro e or o of o e e an s i ty P f ss R bb , King s C ll g ,
T lder e old u e e D r. o v and val d acquaintanc ; y,
o e D r Ro of a resident physician (als lik . bb
re t ie re e s who ee g a sc ntific acqui m nt ) , sp dily
re m e of o thalmia . een cu d p , with which I had b greatly inconvenienced after visiting an officer labourin g u nder this distressing complaint at
e e Qu b c . I was bu sily engaged for a few days getting
h l e or e in or er e my a f t nts sh ds d , dipping th m
‘ — in corrosive sublim ate fand water one pou nd to
o — five gallons f water to prevent m ildew. I
o ot e e oo ou t w rr als g tw lv g d st bags , ith ca ying s r e to ho the or u tea t aps , mad ld p k, bisc it , ,
u r &c. so ten ree ou a e ere s ga , ; al th p nd x s w
or e e er axe ou a e e ere f g d, a h avi w ld h v ncumb d the m en rr the u e ca ying s ppli s .
r e e u o e of the My pa ty b ing mad p, c nsist d
u following individ als . ’ ‘
IJ ACAD IE . 9 1
M r . r e ut u r e or o ot n Blai , D p y S v y , a N va Sc ia .
M r M acGill s s - ur e or Ir . , A si tant S v y , ishman .
i ker o e ee New Brunsw c . Jac b S g ,
o r Ju n . J hn Blai ,
eor e r G g M . Blai ,
eor e ro G g B wn,
M
. er o r A And s n , I ishman .
r J . Kilpat ick,
. e e E P tt y,
r o u er . And é R main, Indian h nt After the m en had signed an agreement
es e e r r M acGill to do witn s d by M ss s . Blai and , willing service with m e in exploring and sur ve in for th e o er e ro the e of y g G v nm nt , f m B nd the e co er o r the r a P tit diac Riv , t wa ds G and F lls,
the r e of on e o r es e r at at d lla a day wag , and th i ! oo e e e r rr e e to be f d, th y mad th i a ang m nts
se su er ab nt all mm .
a or re c 5 2 n d o the rr M j F n h, , c mmanding ga i
son dl ro u e m e to the e , had kin y int d c d m ss
I ave M r a r an d a d . M r . M acGill two o ars n g Bl i d ll ,
a ol ar an d a alf res ec ve er da own ex ra d l h p ti ly, p y my t
a ' was ten s l n s s er p y hil i g t ling . ’
9 2 L ACAD IE .
of the detachment of his regiment stationed at
re er o ere e the c u F d ict n . H I mad a q aintance of
o o eu e t r e ; Captain P cklingt n , Li t nan Ca d n , En
ro e D r . e e . sign St ng , and Sk n Whilst my
re r o ere o on ee e p pa ati ns w g ing , I had b n ask d
to r e ou t to e the r se e e d iv Stanl y, p incipal ttl m nt
of the New ru w c o in B ns i k Land C mpany, a
em o bu t n ot w s to e e light tand wagg n, i hing l av
the eo e who ere or for me e e p pl w at w k , I d clin d, intending at s ome future p eriod to visit the
e e e s ttl m nt .
The our who ou e the e ere f m nt d tand m, w
e u e so f Sir o e r e M r . r n o Li ut nant Ca d n , B k , J hn
ur e two ou e e e ar er the B k , and y ng g ntl m n, f m s,
e r Wi n e . ar e d ro e ere r s s . e e M s g y C d n v , th w
’ o s fles in the orses ou s as too nly naf h m th , is
u c th u s o r e m h e c t m in No th Am rica . The
orses were o u s e oo ran h y ng and kittish , th y s n
ff bu t were u e u on e o e rou . , p ll d p again l v l g nd
o doivn o e r a e r ce On g ing a l ng hill n a St nl y , a t a of the ee er e e u oo e the or e wh l b cam nh k d , and h s s set off The e w e ou om again . tand m s ay d ab t fr s e to e for o e e r c id sid s m tim , and a gi l wat hing
’ 94 L A CAD IE .
‘ On the 2 1st of May I left Fredericton in a
’ ste er r for St. o s ere am with my pa ty J hn , wh
’ to t ro s o rom the I was ge my p vi i ns f , ship
e e T e h s . o e er r . r . f th chandl s, M ss s Ja din bank
c we . u va e lower St; John were ri h and . ll c lti t d
t o or e ou e ere t e rs wi h c mf tabl h s s, wh , six y y a
: r n t n e . ou a o e e o o . We se on r. g , th was pas d left the entrance of the Grand Lake; where
o ou the W ashadim oak e e I e c al is f nd, , B ll sl , and
Kinnebecasis u r e er ure ue Est a i s, all . v y pict sq and b eautiful .
ffor re ‘ ro e for NeW ' Bruns What a ds g at p mis ,
o co s : e e wick and N va S tia is thi , that an imm ns coal field ‘ of nine thousand s qu are miles may be
o ere to be e o e e ee the ' east co c nsid d ncl s d b tw n ast, and a line run from Bathurst on the Bay of
eur re er o to ou o Chal , and by F d ict n Pict in N va ! o eo o of re Sc tia . A g l gical map this g at region
m a be r e es es m . r s y thus ma k d black, b id any pa t of the u e s of ' a e re o an d on val abl I land C p B t n,
The coal formation of Great Britain i s reckoned to be s u are es an d of the e a es q mil , Unit d St t
W e ca no erefore affor to ose a of n t, th , d l th t
’ l Acadie . ’
L ACAD IE . 9 5
e the western sh ores of N wfoundland . Let us never then surrender these invalu able colonies into the hands which might turn their great re o rce of er a r r er s u s timb , g icultu al and min al
e fine r our the re w alth, and ha b s, against pa nt country ’
9 6 L ACAD IE .
CHAPTER V .
’ o s —The a s —o ere ce re ar St . J hn City F ll C nf n g ding — roads Commerce an d resources of New B runswick — Provisions for the forest Tricks u po n travellers “ ” — — Jou rney to the Bend An accident Th e tide — — at th e Bend Visit the mountain settlement Com — mence exploring an d s urveying Our first camp — — M anner of working A bu sh story Sunday in the — forest- Effects of p ork an d flies S ources of rivers — — — — Barrens Wild animals Ro cks an d plants New — — Canaan River Negro stories The black bear
— a h a e of es Rich land Arrive t t e N . W . ngl W t
e a mor l nd .
‘ hn h TH E of . o t e r e t and city St J s, la g s
ost o er New r w e m c mm cial in B uns ick, is w ll
’ e the o of the St o er plac d at m uth . . J hn s Riv , which terminates in a very commodious and s e r o r - ou err and af ha b u , ab nding in h ings
’
9 8 L ACAD IE .
B oats imprudently venturing near some parts ” of the hell of waters are carried down head fore o o o e e er ee m st, as if int a h l , and n v s n a e gain ntire .
’ I was p ointed out a lofty crag c alled Blair s
Ro ere m an of e ru ck, wh a that nam had Sp ng
o the f l u ro e o ro e int aw u ca ld n b l w, and d wn d
e . H e ee or u e u e hims lf had b n unf t nat in b sin ss, an d was r e in er ro o t ack d wint f m his l dgings ,
foo r i n the ow to the r of by his tma ks sn , b ink the precipice:
’ h o re T e o a ut . o a re r cks b St J hn s , in g at
r of e mor s e e o e in pa t, m ta phic lat and lim st n , clined at er e and or e w a v y high angl , dist t d ith huge dykes of syenite passing into granite on Th the one hand an d trap on the other . e s r e ro run o e ro the r er t atifi d cks bliqu ly ac ss iv , th S . W ro e e o NE . e e ab ut and . , and b k n dg s of the corresponding b eds may be readily tr e the e e o n o e The ac d by y b th sid s . Falls are partly connected with the alternating harder b eds of igneous rock resisting the abrasive
o er of the er t e o r e the p w wat , h y thus b th ais bed e rro the o e o the at plac s, and na w p ning int ’
L ACAD IE .
er so the r e a e e ow riv , that ushing tid ccumulat s b l , and causes a f all up war ds .
S ur A rep ort had gone before that H . M . veyi ng C ommissioner was coming to Open the ro e e e r ro o ads , s ttl mig ants, and th w daylight int the r ore s of New ru I -was da k f st B nswick, and consequ ently received with considerable cere mony by the landlord of the hotel where I pu t
o the o our of t rom up. I had als h n a visi f the or the r of the er May , and Chai man Chamb
f o erce e ere ur er o C mm . Th y w nat ally and v y
ro er ou for the ro er of e r p p ly anxi s p sp ity th i city, and were of opinion that the intention of the Government to carry the m ail line from Halifax
“ to the e of the e o c er rou the B nd P titc dia Riv , nd
e of the of u u s o h ad Bay F ndy, (th av iding St .
’ o ro New ru J hn s City) , and ac ss B nswick, to r the r was n ot to be com wa ds G and Falls ,
e mended . They considered that it would b far better to establish the mail line from
cro s o o o r o Halifax a s N va Sc tia t wa ds Annap lis,
the et r c e re ou s e o d by , as y , pa tially l a d Dalh i R a , to cross the Bay of Fu ndy from Annapolis to
’ : . o o ue o the r er to re a St J hn s , c ntin al ng iv F d
F 2 ’ 1 00 L ACA D IE .
icton & e e r c. to o to ou e , That c mpl t Dalh si
o ou o t ou w ere s to R ad, w ld c s ab t h a ” r ve s n ew ro rou a er e s d i thi ad th gh wild n s ,
ou os e e e w ld c t at l ast and th n , th y
o it e er ou be e e r in th ught , n v c ld k pt cl a
winter . I asked why should it continue a wilderness
It was doubtless created for a different pur
o e — s ou r ou oo nd p s , thi c nt y ab nding in g d la ,
r & o u e e co c . s u be o e e u val abl timb , al , , h ld p n d p for settlement by a road throu gh the very heart
of was so e de the o er it , that it al int n d by G v n
m ent to have the commu nication be tween the
North American provinces mu ch more direct
was re e o the com than it at p s nt, als that
m unication should avoid the frontier as
o e the of mu ch as p ssibl . That Bay Fu ndy was often dangerou s in winter from fogs and
s ow- or s r c ro ou n st m , and that a b an h ad c ld
’ e o t e easily conn ct St . J hn s with h main trunk line .
Discu ssions on these matters elicited a good
e of orm o ou d al statistical inf ati n , and I f nd t hose gentlemen into whos e society I was
1 02 ’ L ACAD IE .
“ ’ ” The 3 3rd Re e the u e gim nt, D k s first
’ cor wa s s at e St. o e ps, thi tim in J hn s , n wly
rr e fro the e t e er the a iv d m W s Indi s , and und
co of eute t o o e Whan nel mmand Li nan C l n l . I
was gratified by making some n ew acquaint
n . a ces t re e ue t at in his gim nt, and was a g s
aheir mess .
. ro e o the o r the o I d v int c unt y with May r,
“ and he said that after an experience of forty
’ e r ou t o u e u e to y a s in and ab St . J hn s (s bs q ntly l eaving his native city Aberdeen) he never
k e r o who n ot et n w an indust i us man, did g ~ on well ; that though the actu al b orders of the B ay of Fu ndy were rocky and unfertile yet
iinland far et o of the ro e , as as was y kn wn p vinc ,
there was great fertility ; in Westmoreland for
e I t ou D or e to the . n instanc ast tha c nty,
e er of r e in o o e ch st is su passing richn ss s il , s m
of the old f r t e e ere e Acadians i s s ttl d th , dyk d
e e e ar e o er e e o xt nsiv m sh s, and c nv t d th m int “ the r e t e o the r e of o e ich s m ad ws, Ca s G wri ” o to e was n thing th m .
M r ar o too m e to see . Edw d Allis n kindly k his steam saw-mills on the other side of the ’
L ACAD IE . 103
u ur e or ere ere are ex s b b call d P tland, wh th
’ ’ - r M r. o tensive ship builde s yards . Allis n s works were condu cted with a great deal of
e e er e e e lif and n gy, and th y hav this advantag
n ew ou r e do not ru the r er in a c nt y, th y in iv s by the erection of dams which the ordinary saw- re u re the re n ot ol mills q i , and st am is p
- luted with slabs and saw dust as it is elsewhere . It was necessary for m e to try and establish
’ ’ two d ep é ts of provisions near my proposed
o r e rou the orest s o e we had c u s th gh f , that wh n nearly expended the stock we were to set out
h rr e on the ro ou er of wit , and ca i d b ad sh ld s
m en we et re u e my , might g f sh s ppli s , and so continu e the work without coming out of the ore o e f st alt geth r. I accordingly arranged w es r . r e e ou s ith M s s Ja din , that th y sh ld di patch and contrive to get pu shed up i n canoes to the last hou ses on the Rivers New Canaan (a
r c of the W ashadem oak on b an h ) , and Salm
(which empties itself into the Grand Lake) the
’ ’ o lo su es for e d e ot 1 rre f l wing ppli ach p , 5 ba ls f o p ork (or 300 8 barrels of biscuit (or 1 5 f . o tea 40 lbs . of lbs black , 1 04 ’ L ACAD IE .
} u r 1 f e 5 lbs . o r e a u of e s ga , ic , j, b sh l split b ans ,
2 5 f -fish s of . o cod 6 lb . o o lbs salt , t bacc ,
e er u r p pp , salt and m sta d .
1 engaged with a sturdy little sea captain
r o n e o the e e A kl w by am , c mmanding H l n
oo er to e e u of rov o s sch n , tak a lik s pply p isi n ,
ree of m en r e of e u and th my in cha g th m , p
the of u to the e s e t Bay F ndy B nd , whil t I w n
o er the res one u dre es v land with t, h n d mil , in
re e I was e rou of ee n the a hi d stag , as d si s s i g
r count y . It is right that travellers should expose tr w be e e on t e so icks hich may att mpt d h m , that those who happen to come after m ay
e ere e at o o b nefit . Th was an att mpt imp siti n
’ i c r er u r he n S t. o . T J hn s, whi h was ath abs d
a or of the o e re e e l ndl d h t l had, as I said , c iv d m e o er e s o on rr with c nsid abl di tincti n my a ival , and p erhaps was rather surprised to notice
e of ursu the e u e em that inst ad p ing xcl siv syst ,
oo m e s the u t e w ere I t k my al at p blic abl , h
o i e e useful inf rmation s often pick d up . Wh n
. e to e e ou the bar oo e I w nt s ttl acc nts at , I l k d
o h of r e ab ut and saw on the wall t e rate cha g s .
’ 1 06 L ACAD IE .
er e e o u t int val land b l w, and an ab ndan supply
a W e saw ur ou o r e of of w ter . a c i s c nt ivanc poles standing in the low grounds ; round these poles the hay is heaped in stacks to prevent its b eing carried off by the periodical
floods . The rocks in Su ssex Vale are in all pro hability chiefly of the Devonian system ; gene rally red or variegat ed sandstone with salt
u the e o springs and gyps m . In P titc diac Dis trict the carbonifero us system appears to predo minate . At ten at night we were descending the
ou r - ree - ee ur B nda y C k Hill, a st p pitch with a t n
the or es s ffle u sua in it ; h s had na s as l, and
ere was u su a so n o r or for th as l al , d ag skid
h ~ eel The r er u e to o ro t e wh s . d iv was nabl c nt l his or e ou he on two to e h s s , th gh had ly manag “ h e s oo u u e on e wo oe t d p and , ha l d th m and h d
he ou e e as u e ot r . m ch as c ld , and th n g f ight n d I held on as well as I was able expecting a cr s e co e s ou ro a h ; it cam , ac mpani d with a h t f m
the e o e c e e insid s, and I f und mys lf pit h d h ad
‘ fore t the r o ee on the eft mos in da k d wn a st p , l ’
L ACAD IE . 1 07
of the o e ru o r ad stag and all, and st ggling am ng the legs of one of the hors es which was lying on his back . I s crambled out of my u npleasant position as fas as ou o er the o tom t I c ld, and climbing v b t of the e the ee of ere the stag , wh ls which w in
re e the ro ere ou the air, I gain d ad, wh I f nd driver (who had j u mped off on the right) with
he o r w u o t e or e n r . th h s , hich had ca ght a ailing
God e r for e c e h Thanking h a tily my s ap , whic was o e e the e e o of two u c mpl t , with xc pti n c ts
’ on the ore e ro the orse s ee im f h ad f m h h ls, I
e e e o to the m en ed m diat ly w nt d wn , and call out to e to ee u e e ere s ou n th m k p q i t, (th y w h ti g
r s e the o ou and sc ambling in id c ach) , and all w ld
he o re soon be well . T c ach was p vented by the trees from going further down the preci
e pic .
The r r who extri fi st man, an I ishman , was cated ran m e o e - ou e o e , at p n m th d, and h p d I
was n ot e . e ot out f c kill d Th y all g with di fi ulty, and were more or less bruised and cut ; but
ro e l n o e er s e t p vid ntia ly n w e di abled . I s n a
to the r t f - o e for e M r. man fi s arm h us h lp, and a 1 08 ’ L ACAD IE .
N o e m en ro t a ix n cam with his , and b ugh
er o e and axe W e oo the lant n, r p s an . t k bag
e off the e cut o e e e s gag stag , away s m imp dim nt ,
u e the o c u to the ro fortu e it ha l d c a h p ad , ( nat ly
was not ure e ot the oor inj d) , and th n g up p
or e ro ru h s , which was g aning and st ggling
h was ou to e ee below . T e animal f nd b d ply
ou e the e was e t M r w nd d in ch st, and l f with .
N o who e o er to e us ix n , kindly l nt us an th tak
on . H e o e oo r e als , lik a g d Sama itan , appli d
o u ru se adven h t brandy to our c ts and b i s . This ture seemed rather a bad beginning for our en
ter rise but the a e of o e o e p ; g m ns has g n by . W e reached the scattered village at the Bend of
the e o c er the e of the P titc dia Riv in middl night,
u t s o c eo e and p up at a mall inn , am ng ivil p pl .
ere t rr e for ree s for e er Th I a i d th day , an ast ly
wm d o e w r re e e the , acc mpani d ith ain , p v nt d
e o rou schooner with my suppli s c ming nd . ° ' At the B end (which is in 4 6 6 1 5 of
° ' ” 4 4 5 o ° 64 4 . . 1 8 . f N . o lat , E l ng , with
r o is tere to the W . va iati n) it in sting watch tremendous flow of the tide from the Bay of
‘ It sometim es o e h a bore or Fundy . c m s in wit
’
1 10 L ACAD IE .
I fell i n with a tall and well-made young
’ an e er o e o to the u m , nam d And s n, b l nging L tz s
e e e we e on o et er S ttl m nt ; walk d t g h , and I
e o u e fou nd him intellig nt and c mm nicativ .
It appeared that . the people of the mountain
e e en 8. rt e ee r er w , s ttl m t, stalwa rac , had b n ath ild
l s t r e re er e ti l thi las sp ing, wh n a p ach visit d
e e e to of e r ou th m , and th y b gan think th i s ls .
I e er o he er an d ask d And s n if t y had a cl gyman ,
he said none at all (thou gh there were two or three hu ndred people there) but we have got ” our es he two oo oo Bibl , said , and g d sch ls ;
s r e ee t e ro and thi sp ing many hav b n bap iz d, f m
e the ag e of fourt en to forty . The road was very bad towards the neglected
u o ou e e It and almost nkn wn M ntain S ttl ment .
wet fu of o es were e was , and ll h l , which fill d up
roo the ree c co s e of with ts , and t s , whi h n ist d
e oc ru e e rc re o h ml k, sp c , mapl , and bi h , g w cl se
the e e of h r d to t e o . s a c e r dg a At a m ll l a ing,
ere ere was lo hu t ere was e er e wh th a g , th a v n abl
’ ar old sai o of e so nam e t , an l r N l n s, d Jimmy
who ere ore e h . Mina, had h anc d hims lf An
old o e ou e for . H e ed w man k pt h s him had sail , ’
L ACAD IE . l 1 1
he on o r the Bell ruffen e e as said, b a d y (B ll ro hon of her he p ) , and in talking said , I ” could love that ship ! On ascending the r d e ere was ere e of lo - o e i g , th a scatt d lin g h us s
o er l o e oc u e at l ng int va s , wh s c pants cultivat d
of re er he land g at f tility . T view from the
ou e e e was e e s e e r M ntain S ttl m nt xt n iv , mb acing
u ore the e ou se the e of m ch f st, whit h s at B nd
of the Petticodiac the r e ow r , and distant ang t a ds
o h o n co e t e She d ou . N va S tia, call d p y M ntai During another walk I had taken to fill up
the e our ro s o rr e e to tim till p vi i ns a iv d, I w nt a
farm- house near the B end to ask ab out the
ro the n e our oo of c e ads in ighb h d, whi h I mad a
s r e The r er e m e rou re e u v y . fa m gav a gh c p
o e re m e to be off he ti n, and d si d , and that had nothing to give m e it t urned ou t that he m is
took m e for a soldi er who was deserting .
The ooner e rr e sch having at l ngth a iv d, and as I had obtained all the information regarding the forest that was known to the people ab ou t
the e the ou oer B nd and M ntain , and having as
tained the e te e of two r e xis nc la g swamps , which ’ 1 2 C 1 L A AD IE .
‘ desu able to o e er e On it was av id, I d t min d a 0 r f 5 2 o to eer e ee ou e o . e s c s N w st , as st b tw n
for the h ore . t e t rou t e . h m h gh thick f st , N W
e angle of Westmor land .
I took my point of departure for the Military
o on the 2 8 th of ro e o ree R ad May, f m a h ml ck t between the Free Meeting- hou se and school at
the e we e the ro to the B nd, and chain d ad
ou e e e w t er r or e M ntain S ttl m nt , hi h I had t ansp t d
’ my supplies in a waggon to save my men s
s the e e e our back first day . W stablish d
’ u r ers for the ere q a t night at J miah Lutz s ,
ere we s e u er roo —the t e for wh l pt nd a f, las tim
o s a c n iderable period .
The of o u & e dis o s r c . l ad p k, bisc it , , b ing
r u e o the s r e e or t ib t d am ng t ip d bags n xt m ning, each carrier passing his arms through the
r ou ere his o ou one u re st aps, sh ld d l ad (ab t h nd d pounds to begin with) they then walked sturdily
off o the ore e e r int f st , ach b a ing in his hand an axe e e or ow - e Th e . e oo , k ttl , a f ling pi c big c k
e e o i the e e ing k ttl , c ntain ng tin plat s, kniv s ,
for & c. e e on ks, , was in a black cas , and b ing a
’
L ACAD IE .
- o for the t ee re o e r e back l gs hr fi s , p l s and c utch s for our f e or o e e ro e off hal t nts p n sh ds, and b k
e e e twigs of balsam fir to mak our b ds . Wh n the re e u we ot on r fi s blaz d p, and had g d y tro er an d m occassins we e er e com ws s , f lt p f ctly f rtable ere n o u res the o . Th is nd sing in bush , so ro o r e e our n e er er lling u s lv s in bla k ts aft supp , we e o sl pt s undly .
e or e the was N xt m ning, wh n wind sighing throu the u er r e of the ree gh pp b anch s t s, and the oo e er e o ere w dp ck s , in black and whit c ats , w
e to the e rou e b ginning climb tall st ms, I s d all
’ hands at five o clock by means of a few blows with an axe- handle on one of the p oles of my
e ur e ou t of e r e s o e sh d ; all t n d th i blank t at nc , and shaking themselves (the only toilette till
e rou the re s of or Sunday cam nd) b akfa t p k,
u tea was cu e e ere bisc it, and dis ss d, pip s w
o e the e ere ru e sm k d, t nts w st ck and pack d,
’ o s rr e e e o c o the ex l ad a ang d, and by s v n l ck,
lorin ru ou t the e rr the p g, b shing lin , and ca ying
o o o on e l ads al ng it, was g ing st adily .
ere ere se e ee Th w v nt n p acks in all, and six
rr e or i o men to ca y them . Th y acc d ngly m ved ’
L ACAD IE . 1 15
rd and for r lo the li e backwa s wa ds a ng n , and
e o e e r r e f er or . d p sit d th i bu d ns a t sh t trips Mr.
r e e to the rcumfere or . Blai att nd d ci nt , and Mr
M acGill the o r e sure , with chainman, J hn Bai , m a d the e e ou of the ffere t lin , and k pt an acc nt di n
or of oo we e rou — s ts w d pass d th gh, which it was necessary to note as an indication of the soil on
c e w e ax re . ea e on whi h th y g I w nt ah d,
oul er o a havresack sh d , and with a c mp ss and ,
o e e o e o e e h the s m tim s al n , and s m tim s wit
An dre or e ore to the r an d Indian , I xpl d ight
e as o s o re r S o all ere o l ft cca i n qui ed . w at w rk
eou ere u e e at simultan sly, and all w p at tw lv
oo the er o r ere was n n, which was dinn h u . Th
or s u tea a - t one p k, bi c it, and g ain, and at half pas the w r o e on e ore five P M . e k w nt as b f till . , wh n ” s e all hand mad camp .
’ To the e e e we o vary v ning s m al, had cca sion all e - o or o e fro y b an s up , s m salt fish ; m e to ten I re the of ight , ad by light my lamp ; the m en were very glad to sleep after their
’ The s ue r ul r the r er . day fatig , pa tic a ly car i s anxiou s inquirer may n ow ask how many miles we ot o er a da u es e or g v in y , s gg ting ight ’ 1 1 6 L ACAD IE .
ten and will doubtless be surprised to hear that a mile and a quarter a day (though some
times double that was accomplished) cu t through .
’ the u was o ere r or B sh, c nsid d a fai day s w k, and yet we were regularly at it from morning ll ti night . Be it remembered that in these primeval
ore e ee ro e the f sts, which hav b n g wing up sinc
e u e e re e e e e . d l g , d caying and n w d, ntangl d with prostrate trees an d young and middle- aged
ro t of er we u hew our Wa a g w h timb , m st y pain fully and with mu ch heat of bo dy in these hot
u er o e one u u re s s mm m nths , wh n s ally st am
’ with perspiration from eleven o clock to six; At sunrise the thermometer was u sually at noon at sunset b ut in the
e e ore e e is of cour e e c r u on d ns f st th r , s , littl i c lati of air ; we heard the breeze at the top of the
ree bu t e o e e r roo t s, s ld m f lt it at th i ts . In
or the air ee to e ere the sh t , s ms stagnat th , and
o e e o e es err e to e r e e l cl s n ss is ft ntim t ibl b a , sp cia ly
is o e r the as it acc mpani d with , fi st, minute
the o u er or e the black fly, c nstant s mm t m nt ;
o o o er e n the re u e m squit ,with int l abl singi g, p l d
’ 1 8 L ACA IE 1 D .
the ro r e t ee the s p st at r s, ( wind fall ) wading t rou e e o e e evere h gh swampy plac s, g tting n s lf s ly
r e ru e the o c s o sc atch d and b is d , and c a i nal pitch
’ forward on one s face and hands from eu t the oo roo s or ree r angling f t in t c ping sh ubs, a ore r ur e we re s t ials . In s v ying and chaining require to go differently to work ; we cannot
h o er the u e but c e r e c ain v b sh s , l a ing th m away,
o er o ruc o we m e ure re u and all th bst ti ns , as ca f lly along the ground in this way The p erson at the head of the chain is provided with a numb er of p ointed sticks ; he
rr e the a- e to its e ca i s chain h ad l ngth , and calling out to the man at the other x end s et he the e e s the at sam tim plants a tick, and
’ other answering down lays his en d of the
on Th rs oes on the rou . e chain g nd fi t g again , the e o es u the c the e s c nd tak p sti k, and sam
’ ’ set o are re e e the c are , d wn, p at d till all sti ks e e e the r e he s ou t xp nd d by fi st man , wh n call
‘ tally the second then keeps his reckoning by cutting with his knife a notch on a piece of
n i es e re u wood ha ging from h s waist . B id s ca f l
e re u re on u e ow chaining b ing q i d a s rv y, sl ’
L ACAD IE . 1 1 9 progress is occasioned in the forest by every
’ e rr e on e e thing b ing ca i d m n s backs , and h avy
’ loads of stuff are necessary for a lengthened exploration . On Saturday night there was some con vivialit et ou the s s e of r e y , y with t a si tanc a d nt
e o r e the m en to e the e spirits . I nc u ag d t ll tal
’ rou the so one e the and pass nd ng , and play d
n e s o e s or on e flute . O t ry b ing a h t I here
i —A oor his e ro u ce t. e er int d p man, wif and s v al
’ re e on e l or hut child n , all dw lt in sma l camp ,
he ore o h in t f st . It was s small that at night t e
w o e ere e o e er e oo s h l family w pack d t g th lik sp n , and when the old man wanted to turn round in bed he called ou t spoons and all went ab ou t
on the o er th side together .
u ere was n o or o e the On S nday, th w k d n , camp on the previous evening had b een selected
w o e c re e r e r re w ere ith s m a , n a a cl a st am , and h
the a ree e e n ot too ose set er t ll t s w r cl ly . Ev y
on e n ow e e u t on e shav d, wash d and p cl an clothes : after b reakfast we had prayers and a chapter of the bible was read and commented
u pon : psalms and hymns were sung and some ’ ’
1 20 L ACAD IE .
eir ou of the m en had good voices . Th fav rite
’ t e u u on e of e er n ow hymn was tha b a tif l H b s ,
’ called the Missionaries hymn .
’ ro ree a s ic ou a s F m G nl nd y m nt in ,
’ ro a s cora s ra F m Indi l t nd ,
’ Where Afric s sunny fou ntains Roll down their golden s and
ro a an a c e r ver F m m ny n i nt i ,
ro a a al a F m m ny p my pl in , They call u s to deliver
’ Their land fro m error s chain .
A christian spectator wou ld have been inte rested in witnessing our small congregation trying to offer up a humble tribute of thanks giving and praise to the C reator of the mighty
ores s c e e r o t e an d ree f t , whi h lift d th i l f y st ms g n
o n e e e t ps o v ry sid .
' the ter oo the eo e re e or In af n n p pl st d , me e and w e e r o e re to nd d ash d th i cl th s , and ad on e er The -tub anoth . wash was a square hole cu t ee axe ros r e d p with an in a p t at log . I u sually went out from the camp in the after
’ oo to oo o re to n n walk, and l k ab ut with And see what sort of cou ntry we had next to
’
1 22 L ACAD IE.
I e branches . t was a b ar which had b een en j oying a meal off the inner bark of some of the
fir r e was o t e f l of t ib , which s f at this tim and ul
r o ce t ffere t sap. At va i us distan s and wi h di n
e ree of ou e s the oo e er t ei d g s l dn s , w dp ck s wi h th r sharp and strong beaks would interrupt the
r u dead silence a o nd . I remarked to André one day whils t we
re e the oo of ree ere ro the st d at f t a t , and w lling
c es ro our fore e t ere was bla k fli f m h ads, hat th
n ot u to eat e e oo e er roo m ch in th s w ds, n ith ts,
ru s n or err e e he f it , b i s, and I ask d him what
ou do if e t ou un or fishin - t e w ld l f with t g g ackl ,
’ ’ he swere e er o e r d en an d J ssay ai, M nsi u ,
or r aussit6t u e o b e en u t le s ti q p ssi l , s ivan premier ruisseau que j e pourrois trouver
o o re e to r er G ing d wn a st am might l ad a iv , and
r1ver to e e e or . a a s ttl m nt, an Indian camp
- the 1 st of u e we. ate our On J n at mid day,
e ere ar e ree ro ra e e ed m al wh l g t s lay p st t , d cay ,
o ered th i o of o on c v wi a th ck c at m ss, and
c o n fir- ree r The old o whi h y u g t s g ew. l gs looked as if they had been laid low seventy or
e e s and t e e e e o e t es of ighty y ar , h s w r pr babl rac ’ IE 1 2 3 L ACAD . the great fires to whi ch the French settlers are
to e c e the or er to said hav in it d Indians, in d
r e ou t the s who ere e d iv Engli h, w th n g aining the er the ou r an d is e e e mast y in c nt y, it b li v d that two hu ndred miles of forest were then
’ he to ere ur or t . re b nt, all way wh St And w s
r n ow stands at the mouth of the St. C oix
e Riv r .
Two of the ou e t er of o m ntain s t l s , wh m
r r was on e e er u s on our B yan Ma tin , cam aft
he e n h r u e b t o t e ree . e t ack, g id d y blaz s t s Th y
e to see how we ere e on wish d w g tting , and
rou u s rou r e ee rese t b ght , th gh f i ndly f ling, a p n of u er u - e e o e of b tt , and b ck wh at cak s, and a b ttl
e ere r m aple syru p . Th y w ve y anxiou s for our
u ce for e e ro on s c ss, and lif and light b ing th wn their settlement by means of the proposed
r o e to if r . o u re milita y ad Th y said, , that a h nd d m en se r e for e er e ou n ot had a ch d it, a b tt lin c ld have been hit u p on for the road so far ; as a great swamp of several miles in extent had
ee o e our e on our r the b n av id d by lin , ight at
s e a o er on our e t een ixth mil , and n th l f had b
G 2 ’ l 24 L A AD C IE .
passed at the seventh mile ; this was satis
m our f tor . e e en e r er ac y Th s add d, daily p ay
’ ou for our u e on the M ntain is y s cc ss .
I did n ot feel particularly comfortable after
so e of u u u t or the e er at m days n s al sal p k, w ath
the e t e e hot but e t it off for sam im b ing , I l f a
ou e of d oo o e o e r e c pl ays and t k s m b il d ic , whilst my hunter got two or three spruce and Savan
e To e o er n ah grous . sav having an th man and
t t m f re e n ot as s ha all ight a alik , I had , I aid w e ore t e e e m e . oo b f , ak n any d licaci s ith S n all
ell e e our t ere so was w again, xc pt wris s , which w
elle the e t t ou n ot sw d with black fli s , ha I c ld s ometimes button the sleeves of my only upper
e the red e s rt. ore raim nt, flann l hi I w this
’ playfully disposed ou tside of my drill trowsers
for oo e but o e ro the t c ln ss, c nfin d und wais with
‘ ’ he e t of - ou to ee t . b l my ball p ch, k p all snug
On the 3rd and 4th of June we saw some
oo an d o e r e rre or s g d land s m sp uc ba ns swamp . I wondered at first what end these spongy
o s er ro e er rees n or plains c uld an w , p ducing n ith t
ass but o Wet o on o o gr , nly m ss a sandy b tt m
1 26 ’ L ACAD IE .
We saw o the tr of e r o e als acks b a s , w lv s,
& on o or u e s r c. ur e p c pin s, skunk , ma tins , lin ,
of r e e the rou e oo e er and bi ds ; b sid s g s , w dp ck s ,
oo e r re o e we o er e and m s bi ds al ady n tic d, bs v d
kin fishers oo o er g , l ns , pl v s , night hawks and
h o the t n e at o wls . T e cry f las A dre imitat d
n or er to di o er o he ight, in d sc v its l cality, and w ould then steal up and shoot it for his own pri vate
~e ou ere u e of fe er ating, th gh it is m ly a b ndl ath s . W e saw few insects (besides the horrid flies)
the e ere in d pth of the woods . Th was a small
’ ro u er o e r e r bee b wn b tt fly in p nings , a la g hai y collecting its stores from the flowers of the wild
il on the rou we e e o o l l ac, and g nd b h ld ccasi na ly
- a Go er o oure ee e. rou pp c l d b tl In swampy g nd,
’ checkered snakes glided among rotten
b ranches and leaves .
The , prevailing rock was of a coarse sand
! o e s r c o or o . so st n , t atifi ati n h iz ntal I al saw
of r e or - e e ro o b oulders g anit and h n bl nd ck, als
e e e i the of re som mangan s , wh lst banks st ams
e er r u showed indications of coal . I mad a h ba i m ! of dried plants an d collected every portable
e x S ee app ndi . ’
L ACAD IE . 1 2 7
t i n an d ote and s et ed eve of h g , n d k ch rything
interest on our rou te . In deep and retired places in the woods it was interesting to creep u pon and watch the
rtr e or ore ro er the ruffe rou e pa idg , m p p ly d g s ,
drumming on a prostrate log after a pause he
oul e e e ruff on e ruff e u w d l vat his his n ck, l p his
row e er s re ru i e b n f ath s, p ad his tail and st t l k a
- tur e o . e r o er r k y c ck Th n at fi st sl wly, aft wa ds r l he oul r e the lo ffe e apid y, w d st ik g with his sti n d
u ro u e the r u ou wings , and th s p d c d mming s nd, which has a remarkable effect when heard in
the so e of the ore es e e o litud f st, p cially if an ch
e is n ar . After hewing through the eighth mile on the 5th of u e the o ee e e so J n , c mpass n dl dipp d
u ollo e ee two o e of rou m ch in a h w b tw n sl p s g nd,
re u e to r er e l we re e that it f s d t av s , ti l ach d a
e o e o . e e r low wet grass m ad w b y nd N xt day, n a
the e all o ee er land, fli s , which had al ng b n v y
or e e e i uffer e - t m nting, b cam ns abl . At mid day
e we e to eat we ere o e to in wh n halt d , w blig d sit
’ the middle of half- a- dozen smokes made by
o o er all re the laying damp m ss v sm fi s, and 1 2 ’ 8 L ACAD IE .
e e e s e er e er r sam thing happ n d v al tim s aft wa ds .
Our ore e ec r r u r f h ads, n ks , and w ists pa tic la ly
ffere ou ro e su d, and th gh I had p vid d, as I said, e er one a e et the e in v y with v il, y black fli s sinu ated themselves under the gau ze very often and we were indeed grievou sly tormented ; for u e for e er the ro res of t nat ly s ttl s, with p g s c e r e o u oe edi e l a ing, black fli s and m sq it s imm at ly
e di sapp ar .
o e e o e e o the S m tim s with, and s m tim s with ut
e of the ree ro e e assistanc c ping i ns, I asc nd d
r e ree to oo out The ro e la g t s l k . p sp ct was e er ere the e v ywh sam .
To the far horizo n wide diffused
A bou ndles s deep immensity of shade .
One day I saw Butter Nut Ridge to the
ou but no r es or of our e ere s th , idg n th lin w
re re e to sit on the oo visible. It was a g at li f c l to of e out of the re of the e e o p a pin , ach fli s b l w, though I have even there been followed some
u r o u o or two times by a h ng y m sq it .
the 9 th of e on e or for e On Jun , xpl ing a mil
f to the r of our e fo and a hal ight lin , I und a
’ 1 3 L C D E 0 A A I .
e er oo t o e oo e who to b tt l king than h s w dsm n ,
o e e r e u se tar oil so pr t ct th i fac s, and , and
e e e res embl n gro s .
ere u or of e ro who for a Th is a b sh st y a n g ,
o t e of ru m ree to r to the b t l , ag d st ip waist and lie on his face to be bitten for a qu arter of an hour by the mosquitoes at the Joggins of New
u H e e re r c . e u B nswi k ndu d his p sts manf lly, an d e r won r e w e one of the had n a ly his p iz , h n
u er e who oo on him l mb m n st d by, laid a small
e e of i e r o e the e ro r e pi c l v cha c al, wh n n g w iggl d
e o r u at e to and twist d ab ut f ightf lly ; last , unabl
o ou t o er he u e u ou t h ld any l ng , j mp d p, calling
‘ W ooh ! n ot bargain for dat dat is draagon
’ fly ! Lu mbermen play sad tricks to the negroes
om e e o ou re tea r s tim s at a c l d d inking, a
’ lum berman Slipped a plug of tobacco into the
e e e old e res who re e lle k ttl , wh n an n g s p sid d ca d
’ ou t m o water ! m o water ! too trong for missa
’ ’
tom ach .
On the 1 2th of June we were on the edge of a large carib oo plain of a hundred and more ac e a ter r ro e our e a r s, and f wa ds c ss d with lin
t e e e if t of it. It b a o e to par migh v id d al g th r, ’
L A CAD IE . 1 3 1
re re a tr fl e our to the r qui d, by i ing d t ight .
er s r e er e s n Wat was ca c aft l aving thi Savan ah , and we searched abou t and dug for it with our hands and axes for som e time before we got
o e s t o e i any . One way I ad pt d wa o dig a h l n the moss and make a cou ple of m en stamp rou nd it and s o squeeze the water into the hole . On the 1 3 th of Ju ne we passed over two
e fertil tracts where s ettlements could be made .
The rees ere r ee h e ar fir red t w bi ch, b c , pin , l ch, ,
k & e . on s ru e oa e c. r . , mapl , , ma k d M XVII a p c in a small barren b etween the fertile tracts . W e had n ow a good deal of thu nder and rain
. . on which saved our moss treading . At M XX the 1 5th we e to er er e e ow o f , cam a v y f til m ad u o e e but w ere f ee or we nkn wn xt nt , h fi t n t nty f es be e e e e r our e amili might w ll s ttl d n a lin , I explored for a mile and a half up a clear
re to the r the oo all st am ight , and land was g d
the . ere ere tra es of e r orcu es way Th w c b a s, p pin , cariboo &c . w ere e bu t n o r e of , , h I w nt, t ac s
i s or of u e n h e er Ind an , any h man b i g aving v
e e e o u e visit d th s s lit d s . l 3 2 ’ L ACAD IE .
The e r rr e o black b a is i itabl , and attacks vig rousl w e o e e o y h n m l st d . It is imp ssible to hu rt
‘ r u he so him by st iking at him with a cl b , as dexterously wards off the blows from his head
ore if he ee u with his f paws , as had b n ta ght
o to r e ir fat b xing, whilst st ik his thick, ha y and
o ou t t e r on b dy, w ld inflic as lit l inju y him as striking a sack of grain ; fire-arms are best to
Se e but r e to o e ttl him, it is c u l m l st any wild t u e re e e New hing nl ss p ss d by hung r . A B ru nswick woodsman wantonly and incan tiou sly threw his axe at a bear which was
e r ere he or passing n a wh was at w k, and
h e u ru e wounded t e animal . H t rned and sh d upon him Open- mou thed ; the man fell back
r o er lo he e l ore ou t wa d v a g , and as f l t a
o e o out of the ro e oo Sharp p int d kn t tt n w d,
’ t ru o the e r ro he lle h sting this d wn b a s th at , ki d
but efore t the e him, b his animal had giv n him a terrible claw down the stomach with - one
e ~ on s ot of its hind f et . His antag i t g up with
f u e o e hree e o di di fic lty, and walk d h m t mil s , h l ng
o e he e or two in his b w ls, and di d in a day
“a e r ft rwa ds .
’ l 34 L A IE CAD .
e e n t run in 1 8 4 1 fro e a to lin , b i g hat m Sh di c the e d N . f e or W . o W stm land, and divi ing Kent and Northumberlan d counties from West
ore we re e our e alf m land, ach d with lin within h f h a mile (and to the north) o t e N . W . angle
i o of Westmoreland . Th s I h pe will be con sidered reas onably good steering from the
e — e - ree e e t B nd, distanc thirty th mil s in tw n y
five u the on the days, incl ding halts Sundays . ’ B AGA DIE . 1 35
CHAPTER VI . — A good line of cou ntry for road-making H o w the woods — are cleared an d roads made Proposals for settlement — -Royal A cadian Rangers Leave the camp to bring — — provisions Encou nter bu rnt land Savannah grou se — — Miserable bivou ack Reach th e n ew C anaan settle — — ment It i s described Return towards the camp — Discover a lake in the wo ods W olves abou t the — — — camp Venomou s insects Continu e the line The — — — lynx An u gly lizard A land of streams Extrava — — gant est—imate by engineers A forest well Silver fou a eac the a nt in R h S lmon River .
RALLY s e i n o i e of ou r GENE p ak ng, l n c nt y could be better adapted for road- making than the r - r ee e we e o er u thi ty th mil s pass d v , by c tting our e way through the greater p ortion of th m .
The ou r ere ate al c nt y is flat , th is abundant m ri ’ 1 3 6 L ACAD IE.
e er ere for the ro as r v e o e v ywh ad, sand, g a l, st n s ; the swamps were small and could be easily
’ ro e or tur e tr d etour to c ss d n d ; that is, a ifling the r or e t o e r e e ight l f w uld cl a th m , but as th y are n ot e er of an re t e cut in g n al y g a d pth, by ting down the trees i n them and leaving the roo s e or f o o er t , laying fascin s agg ts , and c v ing
e h r e the ro r er e the th m wit g av l, ad might t av s
ou f ee its swamps with t di ficulty , and thus k p
r o r e st aight c u s . Very few bridges would be required on this line of country ; one only would be attended
os o er the New er with any c t , that v Canaan Riv ;
woo e one t ere lo u m e and a d n h , with g ab t nts
r ers - o r e ou o and st ing , king p sts and b ac s , w ld nly
£ 5 o £2 e or ost fro 1 0 t 00. c m At this tim , w k could be done very reasonably in New Bruns
o e r e the eo e wick ; m n y was sca c , and as p pl saw clearly the great advantage that would re ult fro the o e e ro e o l s m c nt mplat d ad, th y w u d
n it The er e o t very willingly engage o . av ag c s would not exceed a dollar and a half for a rod of 1 6 ee or sa £200 e t t is for a 5 f t , y a mil ; ha ,
r ro the fore t of 100 feet 2 2 of clea ing th ugh s ,
1 3 8 ’ L ACAD IE .
sometimes been practised by contractors cover
“ roo & su er te e c. e ing up ts, English p in nd nts hav
been imposed on in this way . There would be no difficulty in establishin g
settlers along the line of road from the Bend ; such are of course indispensable along a road at
erv s to ee e r of no W ter int al , k p it cl a s w in in , by
m e of the e S o - o e the e e ans Simpl n w pl ugh, lik l tt r
on the ro r or e or A, laid g und and d awn by h s s
ullo b cks . It is not desirable to d ot settlers along a line of road communities are best for mu tual help and omfort an d for the e w the c , advantag hich v ni of S oo and ur ffor ree ici ty ch ls a ch ch a d, f grants of a hundred acres each (alternately with
ro re er e ou r oo r er C wn s v s) , w ld att act g d fa m s from Scotland and the North of England and
h n i ker h Ireland . Those of t e New Bru sw c s w o
e ee u e e er are n ot hav b n m ch ngag d in lumb ing ,
er fo of f r et ere are oo v y nd a ming, y th many g d
u r ou m and ind st i s en among the old settlers . I do n ot thi nk that it would be necessary to
r ue the a e e of e e e t ere pu s W k fi ld plan s ttl m n h , by selli ng the Crown Lands to pay the passage ’ L ACAD IE . 1 39
m r can of e igrants . Emig ants be brought to
ew ru for £4 a- e The s l N B nswick h ad. a e of the Cr own L ands might p ay f or n ew and good r oads New ru wi e re u re , what B ns ck chi fly q i s, settled as it is now only along its coasts ; and
u o e n ew ro s hr ou the it is s pp s d, that with ad t gh
er or the o u o oul be ou e int i , p p lati n w d d bl d in
e e rs sev n y a .
1 8 44 the o o of New r In , p pulati n B unswick was about The province was back-5
ar for the e o r e o f e w d, n ighb u ing Stat Main ,
the e e an d the n ot so with sam climat , land
oo e e the e e ere g d, and s ttl d at sam tim , numb d
l e o l . e o e s u s Main was als h avi y tax d, whereas in our province the taxes were almost
’
he . o o . e on t n minal A man in d bt St J hn s ,
fled to the a e but he e f er e r St t s, cam back a t a y a , findi ng that the taxes in Maine amounted to more t the f e is no e e e han interest o his d bt . It w xp ct d
el e e New r e and b i v d, that B unswick will tak a
r rw o r e o e e er o . sta t f a d, as it b c m s b tt kn wn If p oor Irish emigrants were established
o the e of the li r ro e e on ree al ng lin mi ta y ad , v n f
r e u be su e w oo s g ants , th y m st ppli d ith t l , and ’
1 40 L ACA D IE .
fe be u or e for two e r . s pp t d y a s A man, his wi ,
ree ren re ui re sa £3 0 wor h and th child will q , y t
- & u l of or o r fish tea c. ann a ly, p k, fl u , salt , , ;
ere ro er e e ta e e of wh as , p p st ps b ing k n by m ans
udi io e e e e t e er ou be j c us ag nts, xc ll n s ttl s c ld
ro uce who o ort e e e int d d, c uld supp th ms lv s , and the road would be kept up with their statute
u lab o r . Royal Acadian Rangers might easily be raised in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia (sons of old o e er m en u to e to the and l yal s ttl s) , acc s m d
oo e in the u se of the axe of fire w ds, Skill d and
r o e o e ou a ms, and wh s l cal attachm nts w ld
e o e e r of e er o . e e t r m v all f a d s ti n . Th s migh
or on the r ro be e t e on w k milita y ad , s t l d it, and
e e the u o d f nd co ntry when required . I w uld
ro e e e e of e er p vid th m with a light h lm t l ath ,
re e e ro of red the o d ss th m in n at f cks , nati nal
o our n ot u o ee r e c l ( in c taway c at s) , with da k blu f ro er ou e e acings and t ws s , and I w ld giv th m
oo e n ot r 3 l rr e b. axe sm th ba ls, and ifl s, a , an d or o e ro e for the for e sw d bay n t, a c ss b lt m r,
o er- or - o lon t a p wd h n and ball p uch, a g and ligh
o t n one f r e t an knapsack, c n ai ing change o aim n d
’
142 L ACAD IE .
old t e e &c. e we rr e by h ir rings, mapl , , th n a iv d at a e u fu r e o rou c b a ti l g assy m ad w, th gh whi h a
a oo ran e we e to the r e cle r br k . N xt cam la g st
we et e Savannah or Cariboo plain had y s en .
It was e ro we saw it e e a mil b ad, and xt nding three or four miles east and west ; there were pools of water in it here and there we sank to
our dle e r o e e we mid s , n a ly, in s m plac s , and picked up fine specimens of the large flat horns
of the cariboo but h we ere o e , whic w blig d
e relu ctantly to l ave .
ter o e e os difli cult ou Af this, c mm nc d a m t c n “ ” tr ur t fore rou y ; b nt land, hat is, st land th gh
fire e in 1 8 2 two e r which a had pass d 7 , y a s
f er the re fire of r hi far a t g at Mi amic . As as the e e cou re the e re u y ld ach , nak d and g y st mps
of the ree ere u on e of us t s w standing p all Sid s , “ ” or were lying in confused raft-like heaps
ro our o r e o e of t em ere ac ss c u s , and s m h w black
s er rre ere and con id ably cha d . Th was young f o o ru e &c. o the ro gr wth balsam, Sp c , , am ng p s
u ou be e ee l trate tr nks . It w ld xc dingly difli cu t
to e r ro rou oo u c e e cl a a ad th gh w ds s h as th s ,
w so e e ee r but ose hich had r c ntly b n bu nt, , th ’
L ACAD IE . 143
o er i h the fire had e e e r a o v wh c pass d ighty y a s g , su ch as we had seen between the B end and the
f es ore ou be er N . W . e o angl W tm land , w ld v y
old tru are u easily managed . The nks q ite ro e the e o o oul be e re tt n, and s c nd gr wth c d cl a d
difli ult away without c y . We n ow scrambled over the fallen logs for
ou e t e u er e re ue . ab t igh mil s, and nd w nt g at fatig It was impossible the m en could have return ed
Our ro re alive and with loads this way . p g ss
u o e e we was abou t on e mile an ho r . S m tim s were moving along a log six feet from the
r grou nd . At another time we were th own
o o e e ro e on ro en d wn with vi l nc , having t dd n a tt branch ; 111 some places we could n ot see the length of our arm before us for the thick u nder
o ere ou e r t gr wth , and w w nd d by unning agains u een ns stumps . I had n ot undergone such
t ue the er e of fr ere how fa ig in wild n ss A ica, wh , e er we r e u oc v , had always a f i ndly b ll k at hand re to rr ady ca y us when tired of walking .
rou e we ou Savannah g s , which saw with y ng
roo ere so ta e e e o u e i ntactce b ds, w m in th s s lit d s ( s ecuri e e n o t er e er ee fe e , wh r imb had v b n ll d) , 44 ’ 1 L A CAD IE . that they ruffled up to us to defend their off
S r er e on the low e The p ing which p ch d bush s . men caught in their hands the mothers whilst
e at our e but ou not o the p cking l gs, I w ld all w
poor things to be In the afternoon we ate e or two of o or a u t a slic c ld p k and bisc i ,
er washed down with wat .
ter the e t was re t e it e n Af this h a g at , h n b ga to r so o ue the er oo ain , and c ntin d all aft n n and n W e r e oo - e s . o re run ight c ss d a g d siz d t am ,
a r of the New ning b anch Canaan ,
’ and at half-past seven o clock we reached a ” e r- o on ere the or u ee c da p st, which w w ds , Q ns,
” “ ” ’ e e uee s Kings , and W st, m aning, Q n ,
’ re e W e n w e o ou s . o King s, and W stm land c nti looked anxiou sly abou t for some Sign of a settle
e but ou lle e t to th o e . e m nt , f nd n n I pu d my b l
o e we o ue out the o last h l , and c ntin d s h by c mpass
r r the New er We to t y and each Canaan Riv .
tru e on t rou the er n r s ggl d h gh bush v y hu g y,
ce wr the a ove a M r . S o Sin iting b , I find th t t . J hn ,
a r e s or s a an d os easa wr er an d w ose th t p im p t m n m t pl nt it , h
! ac u a a ce a e u er the s a ow of Ben ev s q int n I m d nd h d N i ,
a ob serve d the same happ en in the wilds of Scotl nd .
1 4 6 ’ L ACAD IE . h ouse of an old and respectable N ew Canaan
s e er Mr . er S en who set u ttl , Ryd , , had p his
ff ere e 1 e sta h sinc 79 7 . Aft r a fast of twenty
ours we e r e o e in the h , mad a la g h l abundant & re f of e or c . set e ore u b ak ast ggs, p k, , b f s by
the or e M rs . er but who w thy dam , Ryd ; was
ea the e o ere her son un sy all whil , and w nd d why
a e out all our B enj min had stay d night . C t in u o e or ce u e e . g , I s pp s ; at a dan , I s gg st d
There is no dan cing or Singing in this settle ” e re e the old l r e w m nt, pli d ady, g av ly ; at hich
o e e I w nd r d .
Whilst the m en were enj oying a delicious s ee of e ere so in l p , which th y w much want,
al e the old e er H e or e m e I t k d with s ttl . inf m d t he our u re res of hat had f h nd d ac land, and that he raised at the rate of twenty bu shels of w e ro two of ee - or e - our h at f m s d c n, tw nty f b ushels of potatoes from three per acre ; that the settlement of New Canaan consisted of
r ere l e er fer e e thi ty scatt d fami i s, in a v y til vall y
n o e of the r er e r o b th Sid s iv , which was th i high
the ro . ro ou e re ad F m his acc nt, it app a d that
first settlers had poled their canoes up stream ’
L ACAD IE . 14 7
he W aShadem oak oo roo w e from t , and t k t h n they came to the interval land where we n ow
The e er of New n are all were . s ttl s Canaa
s e e e e are er Bapti ts , and I b li v th y all a v y
r re ou eo e he r se w ea m o al and a ligi s p pl ; t y ai h t ,
’
& r er to the . o o oes c . p tat , , and aft timb St J hn s
r ma ket .
u r to n o o er or e er e Sing la say, G v n had v visit d
is the retired New Canaan settlement . It
e o e er the rese one Sir Ed lik ly , h w v , that p nt ,
u e who is er e e ex m nd H ad, v y ind fatigabl in
lorin for the e e of the ro e p g b n fit p vinc , will find out this interesting community in the depths of the forest . I asked Have you a minfster ” here !
o e the re bu t we o r er N n , was ply, h ld p ay
ee re u r o urse m tings g la ly am ng o lves . The old women are our doctors ; there is neither store n or os - office ere n o er i h p t h , and lawy all wh c
s r e e ou was t ang n gh .
u r er o or e t at On inq i ing aft c al, I was inf m d h ” j unks of it are occasionally brought down the
New re t bed of some Canaan st am , and tha a
H 2 ’ 4 L A 1 8 AC D IE .
thickness is known fifteen miles b elow the
settlement. I found my store of provisions had b een left
’
at Mr . . . o e a I J Macd nald s , and was all saf
ere e es ro . We ro e th , tw nty mil f m my camp b k “ ” ul and oo out 3 00 lbs . e of s uff b k, t k w ight t ,
lbs to e of the m en— e giving 50 . ach all th y
ou e e o s er the f cu es c ld w ll manag , c n id ing di fi lti we had agai n to encounter in getting back to c o e to et on w s su amp , and I h p d g ith thi pply
e o d d e re as e to our s c nd ep t. N xt day I b akf t d
Al M acD o a o e er M r . n ld with a h spitabl mill , lan ,
r wo a ree to o m who a M . o e , with At d, g d Sh w
how to a o e r oo v id ight miles of bu nt w ds . I
e M M r rs . acD n l n h o a d Se . ow ask d , , many g and
re She She re e ! e r child n had , and pli d , Oh d a ” man it ou a e m e to re o ! , w ld t k all day ck n
In on e or two of the hou ses there was a c r ou rou e w c ur e u e n ot u i s nd tabl , hi h t n d p wh n u e for e the u or or e s d m als , and s pp ts f m d a c o for e arm - c r m tabl hai .
’ I gave the m en a day and a half s rest in the s eet e e u e of the New a w and p ac f l vall y C naan ,
’ 1 50 A L CAD IE .
. h m a 6 P M . t e en ere e Savann h at , w b gin
to ou our e er re the c ning d bt v aching amp .
e o ever er e ere Th y, h w , willingly p s v d with a
e e our e e on o a- e littl nc ag m nt, my g ing h ad with
the o we o ull s ru c mpass ; and at last, j yf y t ck
- r e r again our ou t going t ack . W eached the
8 P . M . er o er rou of camp at , aft an th gh walk
e e fou M r ! . r e ee tw nty mil s, and nd Blai and S g a e e liv and w ll . Wolves b egan to prowl about our camp a b ou s e e are e e e t thi tim , but th y manag abl wh n
n ot e er e e s e r re e ce at in packs ; n v th l s , th i p s n is .
e s ree e es r e to all tim s di ag abl , and it is d i abl
’ keep one s axe and rifle handy whilst lying
the o o s the ee to the fire en in w d , with f t , wh
the midnight -howl of these creatures res ounds t hrough the dark forest .
In some parts of New Bruns wick they are
” er rou e o e six o r the re r v y t bl s m , and d lla s is wa d
’
for e er e o ree for e r . given v y h ad, and nly th a b a s
ere are two s of wo the re the Th kind lf, g y and
the r is the o o o he black ; fi st m st c mm n , and
e ures e fu ro n ee o in m as , wh n ll g w , six f t l ng,
u a ree ee i cluding his b shy tail, st nds th f t h gh, ’
L ACAD IE . 1 5 1
l s On e e and weighs 1 00 b . man had lat ly lost
- f r ee e r the e e out o St. tw nty nin thi ty sh p , n a
’ o e e o er J hn s , by th s animals ; and an th man , whilst going home in the eveni ng with a sleigh
r of orse saw u o co e out and pai h s, a ga nt w lf m of the oo o re e o e ore w ds and h wl , p s ntly a d z n m
e e r e the e e re . app a d, and imm diat ly cha g d sl igh
The s ou e w e on his orses ch man h t d, hipp d h , whi
o e off dl The o e smarting gall p d wil y . w lv s ru e a ou e on o er the s e sh d b t th m and and v l igh , u er cr e of r e u er i the m an tt ing i s ag and h ng , t ll re c e a c e r w e the di s o e a h d l a ing, h n app int d pack
ff as arrow e e o the r made o . It w a n scap f r poo
e ow as was so a of s er who was f ll ; al th t a kat , perseveringly followed on the i ce of a New
ru sw c r er for we e es s e B n i k iv , t lv mil , by a ingl wo the us the of ou e lf in d k, till light a h s
e re w e the o e u the ur app a d , h n w lf gav p p suit .
On e of the s to c c o e is to u way at h w lv s b ild a.
s u re roo of o s wi o e the small q a m l g , th a h l at
to e r e ou se- r h u p, lik a la g m t ap t e animal j mps
rou the o e to et the a ot th gh h l g at bait , and c nn ’
L ACAD IE . make his way out again ; when discovered in
h r ur e e su o e cor e . d anc lks , c w d in a n
Our u es rou the ur oo s g id th gh b nt w d , having
ze or r ed the rees the ree oo bla d, ma k t in g n w ds to e r ro our now find th i way back f m camp,
e t u s t re e n o e so l f wi h a small p s nt , havi g c m far to see ou r ore - to tr f st camp , and y and
’ o er discover sticks f r lumb . Making a day s indispensable halt to r ecruit the m en after their
e se ere o we n ew our e of lat v t il, laid a c s
° u the on the . 60 W . re N , and b aking p camp
2 th of u e we e e r n 7 J n , b gan cl a ing and chai ing for he o er ter o we t Salm n Riv . With ligh l ads n - ow made two miles a day .
The venomou s black- flies continu ed as bad
r so e e ou t the m en wou as eve . I m tim s th gh ld
e ro o e r c s run off hav th wn d wn th i pa k , and in
e their distraction till they dropp d .
e ore to the or ou re I xpl d n th, and f nd a st am t ru to he . E . ou ten ee ro nning N , ab t f t b ad and two fee ee oss r c of the e t d p , p ibly a b an h Tyn
er ou s s re ere old fore Riv . Ab t thi t am th was st
ee e -fitted for e e e land, s mingly w ll s ttl m nt, and
’ 1 54 L A D IE CA .
o c e e - e e u e with its st ut a tiv mak , cat lik fac , t ft d e s o e e or e ur ars , p tt d l gs, and sh t tail Wh n h t ,
n ot s e ur on er e . and di abl d, it t ns a man fi c ly
Thu s a party of woods men were out in the
u on e of e w e se r e ro b sh, and th m , h n pa at d f m
the re ou e . e e st, w nd d a lynx It imm diat ly sprang at him h e turned and climb ed a small
ree but e to hear out of t , it was unabl him re of the e r e w ore ach n ag d animal, hich t him
re ter e ull . cr es e r c d adf y His i , af a tim , att a t d the o ce of his o r e who ou n ti c m ad s, f nd him with
he ee w r e r ro t o . his fl sh in st ips, f m kn d nwa ds
H e e bu t the e u of e the c e liv d, b a ty his l gs , alv s ,
e re e r had nti ly d pa ted . W e fou nd in a decayed log in our rainy ca a r f e ree e e r o r e . mp , liza d v y disag abl app a anc
od ree s c red its en Its b y was g ni h , ba k , and l gth
e o its e four inches. It had a h ap f ggs beside
’
. Andr e ca e a n amt d homme fo r he it ll d it , ,
’ c e w its o e ear w e said , it ti kl d ith tail n s h n
er . owe er he e we dang was nigh H v , add d, if
r the er a een d ank wat in which this nimal had b ,
ou o o u it w ld p is n s .
’ During cur n ext day s wo rk we cros sed a ’
L ACAD IE . 1 55
. ur ou r e n o 5 beaver meadow O c s was w N . 6
es were e re o of s re s an d W t , and ach d a gi n t am
r ers of r s ru w er an d iv b ight and wift nning at , w c su s a oo e r es cos rt hi h b t ntial w d n b idg , ting thi y
ou s w a u e s of u s u re o p nd , ith b tm nt n q a d l gs ,
a cor i to the cus o of the ou r wou d c d ng t m c nt y, l
eas ro s . ese e n o n e ily c s If th hav India nam s, w c ou w s be re e as e con hi h sh ld al ay tain d, th y ve ea of the ure of the er as y an id nat wat , & r e the M ud e c . ro o e to c E i , Lak , , I p p s d all
them after certain heads of departments at that
e eres e in ese e or o the tim int t d th xpl ati ns ,
a e the urr the o the H ol St nl y, M ay, Jacks n,
lowa the W etherall 81 0. y , , After crossing the nameless stream twice on
' ‘ the 3 0th of u e e ore u its cour e to J n , I xpl d p s see if it could n ot be avoided altogether ; but
the e of f e ou was at distanc hal a mil , I f nd it j oined by another stream ru nning from the sou th . These details may be of great us e to
u ure se e he l t of ul rs . t s ano er f t ttl On J y, th
e ess s re e -two ee w e an d nam l t am , tw nty f t id , w o of w er o ur ee ee ran a ro s ith a b dy at f f t d p , c s our e fro the or e we re e fi e lin m n th . th n ach d a n 5 ’ l 6 L ACAD IE .
r ver r -five fee e our ee on i thi ty t wid , and f d p ,
w ose s ere o e o s r e h bank w l fty h ml cks , p uc ,
r o r . balsam , bi ch, and p pla
The freshets are probably inconsiderable here.
ro the e of the s r e f m h ight bank , and a b idg might be put across it for one hu ndred and
twenty pounds ; and here I think it well to
re r u e u or of ure ma k, that many s f l w ks this nat
are n ot rr e o e e u o our o o e ca i d int x c ti n in c l ni s ,
be u e the e e for e or i to ca s stimat th m , acc d ng
s e u too for n ew Engli h id as, is m ch high ; in a and wooded country like British North America
ou eo o the o e the or (th gh g l gically ld st in w ld) , we ought to work with wood till increase d pop ulation enables brick and stone to be u sed . To Show what extravagance old country en
in eers ill o e e ru n on e e g w s m tim s , gav in an es te saw for cut s tone r e tima , which I , a b idg at
’ the r f he o e o t . ere G and Falls St J hn s, wh n th
’ vVas o h et ere to o nly a aml th , which was c st seventy thousand pou nds ; whereas a stou t
r e uf e for e e r o e an d to b idg , s fici nt imm diat pu p s s
s e r be u ro the la t many y a s , might fl ng ac ss
e ere for “ wo ou o ravin th t th sand p unds .
1 5 8 ’ L A CAD i E .
ore the roo s are re ou t er ll to find f st , t sp ad lat a y
nourishment and moist ure for the tree ; which
u u e rees c ear ull th s, nlik t in a l ing (f y and
e u u e e o e w oo o b a tif lly d v l p d, and ith g d h ld
on the ro is er e to be o n g und) , v y liabl bl w
o d wn .
The present Governor- General of British
or er the r of e N th Am ica, Ea l Elgin , at a lat meeting of the Mercantile Library Association
o re e the o ow ore u r at M nt al, gav f ll ing f st ill st a
tion in allu ding to the advantages of self
re e W e er e his e e c lianc , may d iv , said Exc ll n y,
a lesson and an example from the process of
vegetable life ; for j u st in proportion as the tree
r e ro the e r e e d its ra c e is s f m a th , as it xt n s b n h s
u es its e es e er o reer and m ltipli l av , as it nt s int f
o u on the es of e e rece e c mm ni with gat h av n, iv s
r er e sure the e s of the orn in a la g m a d w m ing,
the e of the oo - sun u in and h at n n day , j st that
proportion does it strike its roots deeper into
the e r c ore e ac ous to the a th, and lings m t n i ly
o ro d er e the s r of life s il , f m which it iv s p ings
and vigour far and wide ; if it were other
e t e e o how r oe er the ow wis , hat l vati n , fai s v Sh ’ : L ACAD IE . 1 59
o e wou but ro e the s ure that acc mpani d it, ld p v ” its ll prel ude to fa .
On the 2 n d of July we reached a fountain of
fin e water welling ou t abundantly under large
We c e er ou a e rees . t all d it Silv F nt in, a nam
M Gill e e e er es w M r . ac r it w ll d s v , and hich ca v d
e We now ro e the on a tree b side it . app ach d
o er ee re ou s o Salm n Riv , and having b n p vi ly t ld that we were there likely to encounter difficult
rou was n ot e sur r e e on g nd, I tak n by p is , wh n the 4th we reached a descent of on e hu ndred
s -five ee e e of and ixty f t in l ngth , with an angl depressio n of twelve degrees . We reserved
s for c re u e or o er thi a a f l xpl ati n aft camping, w c we on the s of s ou or hi h did bank thi , ab t f ty
e e ro the e fiv mil s f m B nd .
The o R er r s the cou of Salm n iv , i ing in nty
e e r the Richebu ctoo R er cou rse K nt , n a iv , has a of b etween fifty and sixty miles before it j oins the w h aters of the Grand Lake . In t e upper r er its are c e re u e e iv banks un l a d and ns ttl d, and
as yet only partially so near and below the forks
of the s ere u r e r the r Ga p a b anch, and n a G and
Lake where there are many b eds and veins of ’ f 60 D E L ACA I .
e e Coal . Wh r we first saw the Salmon River
there were large trees along its margin ; its
re h on e u re and ten ee b adt was h nd d f t, and
e at i e our or five fee : the d pth , this t m , f t
flew o o of s o e . ue o b tt m was sand t n Bl jays ab ut,
e th oo and wild roses adorn d e banks . S n after we e r e sal o r oro camp d, a la g m n sp ang vig usly fro the er e u the re m wat as it pass d p st am .
1 62 ’ L ACAD IE .
delicious bath) to look for a ford to cross
o er the ou ex elle v with packs , and I f nd an c nt
bed of o e or o r e sandst n , h iz ntally st atifi d, and
well e for u rr so r e ere fitt d q a ying, that a b idg h
might have stone abutments ; with these the
os be £500 oo e c t might , and with w d n abut
e h oo m nts £3 00. W at I t k for a ford at a
“ distance was a flat rapid with a consider able depth of water ru nning over a smooth bed
of roc k .
er our - e re ur e Aft mid day m al, I t n d with
r r to e ore rou he M . ou t Blai xpl all nd, and ab t
ee e e e e st p d sc nt b fore mentioned . W climbed
the to the e of the e ou u hill l ft lin , and w nd p
e by a course which a r oad might follow. W
e e ore to our r oo e s th n xpl d ight, l king a t and
e o the ro of the es e ere for w st al ng b w d c nt . H
a considerable distance a practicable course was
ou for the ro or the e of u er ro f nd ad, lin a l mb ad
“ be o owe w c we tr ce to row might f ll d , hi h a d a b
’ or p ortion of the river s bank cut away for “ ” - W er dri e o our e . e e timb ving, b l w lin th n
re urne r oss our e e e t d ac lin , and I asc nd d a tall
to the e ' of spruce; I saw w st a vast bank
’ 1 64 L AGADIE .
berers drag the logs they roll them down this
’ to the w er s e e ere s es o e at dg , wh tak c nfin them
l the ass of er re for r til m timb is ady afting . A
fearful j u dgment befel a dissolute master lum berer at on e of these brows . H e had called on ” his to or on u cut gang w k S nday, and
down the brow to let the logs into the river ;
e re u e he ore he o or on th y f s d, and sw w uld w k
u ou the oo on the S nday, th gh Almighty st d brow and forbade him ; then going b elow in
r e he cut e u ou s e his ag away a stak inca ti ly, wh n the o e ro e o er r e wh l mass ll d v him, and c ush d him in a moment . It n ow b ecame necessary to navigate the S almon River to get the party and baggage a ross to e e m e to o o the c , and nabl g d wn stream for some distance to examine the sites for r e an d to s w ree m en the a b idg , vi it , ith th ,
' second d epot of provisions I expected to find
o ew ere on the r er— m e s m h iv y ag nts at St .
’ o s cou n ot e sa e e J hn ld xactly y wh r . Our plan was to constru ct a cou ple of cata
r o The marans or small afts f spru ce trees . five logs for each catamaran were cut eight ’
L ACAD IE . l 65
feet long ; then a d ouble row of auger holes
were bored in the logs near their ends ; cross
pieces were laid b etween the holes ; a withe of twi sted hazel was passed through the holes and
o er the ros e e was e r v c s pi c s , and th n fi mly
w se r e on e s the pegged do n . A at ais d p g in
dl e ser e to ee the s dr s mid v d k p thing y, and thi primitive craft was completed with ten feet p oles for ro e p p lling it . In the evening the mosqu itoes were oxees ” sively annoying till we made smokes with w et m oss . On the morning of the 5th of
u er e lore le J ly, aft having xp d a mi and a half
u the re on the r saw all the p st am ight bank, I
a e sa e o e ro on the r bagg g f ly p l d ac ss afts , and
e r e f r o M . r M r . M acGill l ft it in cha g Blai , and
five of the r who were al o to rr on pa ty, s ca y the e s or e e e r e on lin a h t distanc . I th n mba k d
one of the r ts r o e ow the af with And é, and p l d d n
s re o owe two m en row t am , f ll d by , B n and Kil
r c on the o e pat i k th r raft .
W e e on u er n ot ow but w nt in nc tainty, kn ing
we ee w that might m t ith a cataract b efore long .
W e listened occasionally and watched for the ’ 1 66 A D I L CA E .
o appearance of a spray cloud . Alt gether there was a good deal of excitement on this river
o e s e ree e e u s V yag , whil t a pl asant b z bl w against ,
e re ere which we fou nd very r f shing . Th was
r curre o e the r ous r s an d ha dly any nt ab v va i apid ,
the o r but s oo the r p ling was ha d, h ting apids
was agr eeable enou gh ; a good look out b eing
e to o to u the r e r of the k pt av id, and p sh aft cl a
r e r e ou ers e la g g anit b ld in th m . The woodland scenery of the river was v ery
o ce ere ere ural beau tiful . In s me pla s th w nat
owers or e the elm - ree the b f m d with t s, and
banks were clean and free from swamp or
W e se a so oo e or low weeds . pas d l g d int rval
c e of cu a o . land, apabl ltiv ti n
er so e s ou o we re c e the r Aft m t t p ling, a h d fi st
a e er e ur o clearing and the but of s ttl . B ing c i u s
to see what ‘ m an ner of he to ask man was, and
ou ou r ow ar course we us e on ab t d nw d , p h d
3 7 ore er or se er c e ou t sh , and a v y igina ttl am
of o oe e w ere he ee oe a p tat fi ld h had b n h ing,
H e was ou oo to meet u s . a st t and wild l king
’ fe ow r r r o ll , g im with hai and di t , a m nth s
e ‘ was on hi s f ce on his e b ard a , h ad was an
’ l 68 E L ACAD I . cept the Irish boy whose father had repaired
r hat his t owsers with an old straw . W e passed more rapids and three o ther
’ settlers places in ten miles there were patches of cultivation amidst great fertility of soil and u ncleared forest ; and then we found ourselves gliding past the remains of a demolished mill
e fi e our . Our o n ow e v dam v yag had last d h s , and though I p ossessed the feelings of inde penden ce which the red shirt and m ocassins
ire ou ere ere n o es the da insp , and th gh th w fli , y
e o u our ro ress o e er ree b ing cl dy, and p g alt g th ag
e et it was n ow - we ere abl , y mid day, and w excessively hungry from the severity of our
saw labour and from the fresh river breeze . I no better site for a bridge than where we had
e e . W e e e o the e ncamp d land d b l w lat dam,
e er e r e on re and mad a v y h a ty m al milk, b ad ,
u er err o e e to u s ter so b tt , and h ings (n v lti s af “ ” u or s u t e e de e we m ch p k and bi c i ) , th s licaci s
’ r oo of M Pa col s r . s s o e who e pa t k at h u , lat ly o e two the wn d saws at mill here.
u off e r of our de dt P shing again, in s a ch p , ’
L ACAD IE . 1 69
we for o e e on r f er stuck fast s m tim a apid, a t
uff ee er e o passing a high bl with d p wat b l w it . Hence we saw many farms on the three miles to the Forks of the Salmon and Gasp ereau
ro the ou of the er ere Rivers . Ac ss m th latt th
oc u the s rea was a high dam, bl king p t m , and preventing entirely the shoals of Gaspereau or res w er err as es o e f h at h ings , in tim g n by,
he o saw- proceeding beyond t F rks . A mill was
u o er o rec e s e in f ll p ati n , and kl s ly mptying its slabs (the ou tside cuttings of logs) and sawdust
o the o er ere s to int Salm n Riv , th by a sisting fill up its bed by collecting sand and m ud in addition to the saw- dust (much disliked by the salmon as it gets into their gills) whilst the freshets heaped the intervale land with rotten
nk n o or or who the I thi man in auth ity, had power to prevent the establishment of a saw
il on r er ou e er a o to e t m l a iv , w ld v ll w it xis if he were to see the evils cau sed by it in this
s in tance . Formerly the Gaspereau fish used to be e ro the r er e u n ew tak n f m iv in bask ts f ll ,
V OL . I II . ’ l 70 L ACAD IE .
The oorer e e there is not one to be seen . p s ttl rs who e e s e e se es on the r er hav stabli h d th m lv iv , m ight make out half their living by means of
t e re the no . f sh fish, if mill dam did xist And s ome of those m en who work saw mills grind ” the ces of the oor the ru e of fa p , by t ck syst m
e the two ree re paym nt, and by and th hund d
f ro e e for e e er e . o r e p c nt p fit th y d mand n c ssa i s ,
ur e to the e er — tea six &c . f nish d s ttl s as at
’ s ll s . o s co s two s l hi ing , which in St J hn st hi lings the ou o o two ll s c o p nd ; t bacc at shi ing , whi h c sts
e ce o e ou r s ll s the o Sixp n ; m lass s at f hi ing gall n ,
n e ll ree e which cost o shi ing and th p nce. It
oul be e for the e of re set w d advisabl , sak futu tlem ent the er r ile e so u , that wat p iv g s, m ch
u e on o er r ers be urc se ab s d this and th iv , p ha d
c the o er e or be o e ba k by G v nm nt, ab lish d by so e e s or o er sa er ll ra e m m an th y by lat al mi c s .
N o doubt deals mu st be sawn for bu ilding
ou se but e ou be e wi ou er h s, th y c ld mad th t utt ly
es ro e r ro t r er d t ying a cl a , b ad, and swif iv , with
the r er fert e e ere u . il banks , lik iv Gasp a
e e it n o a e to the t er B sid s, is dvantag imb ,
’
1 72 L A CAD IE .
New a we u o e e t mi es Cana n, had th s c m tw n y l
for our provis ions from our camp . It is u nderstood that squirrels swim rivers ;
o e m e is s on e e of r u i s m ti s, it aid, a pi c ba k, s ng
To - we saw on e en their tails as a sail . day
e j oying himself in the water with a bath . H jumped off a branch into the water and swam
oo hi m for ul - ro about quite happy . I t k a b l f g
r il saw him s r ro the w er at fi st , t l I p ing f m at and shake hi s tail and chirrup blithely after his refreshment .
M r . rr re e e v Da agh was a sp ctabl man , li ing
r on hi s own r H e ou and th iving fa m . had a y ng w fe e er hi e All were e o e i and s v al c ldr n . mpl y d ; the i e w her oo the e es u er w f ith l m , ld t da ght helpe d her and t ook care of the younger children ; the eldest boy was hoeing in the
fi e the oo c e u ro the ld, and g d man am p f m r er fin e u c of ere u M r iv with a b n h gasp a . . Darragh complained of hi s intervale land being covered with slabs from the saw mill after fr he e e of . t o of the sh ts, and navigati n ’ L ACAD IE . 1 73
Salmon River being obstructed from the same
e caus .
e t w the or ou e I passed th nigh ith w thy c pl .
e or set for r but as the w N xt m ning in ain, ind
e e u s re ou to bl w fr sh p t am, and I was anxi s
’ re o the r o e we o e M r . rr j in pa ty ab v , l ad d Da agh s canoe with four hundred and fifty p ou nds of
or &c . rre s e d biscuit, p k, , in ba l . S n ing back
’
e to . o s the . r e what main d St J hn , and taking
M r rr t oe tow . o e can in , with Da agh in it st er,
e we paddled up s tream to the mills . I hir d
ere for two ol rs cou e of ro orses h , d la , a pl st ng h
two m en to co u e e and nd ct th m , and mptying the provisions into the bags we had brought
’ u s e were s u on the or e s with , th y l ng h s s back , and we carried them six miles up the Gaspereau
b e-ro u er-roa s We e by y ads and l mb d . pass d
o er saw ll out of u e ow an th mi , which an gly f ll
e w e on his ou er H e a cam ith an adz sh ld . had
ello e red e e ere fat y w fac and y s , his lips w
' e his ee ree rom the abuse of chapp d, and t th g n f
to o . o u to m e he u re Yez bacc C ming p , inq i d,
’ are u a ro s ez c tting ad, i nt y 1 4 ’ 7 L ACAD IE .
e r ere old o er e H a ing that th was an s ldi , nam d
e who ou be e to e u s s e e Fl ming, w ld lik ly giv h lt r,
and who was looked on as a great warrior in
o e r ro the or e he o of th s pa ts , f m st i s t ld his
’ ser e the r re e on of 9 8 we e vic in I ish b lli , w nt to o e o e e u the r er his c ttag , s m mil s p iv , and a e for r er he er re sk d qua t s, which v y adily
e g rant d . Fleming had been a corporal in the 7th
r oo u r fou e for D ag n G a ds, had ght and bl d his
o r fin e e e of old c unt y, and was a sp cim n an
roo er H e old e ere er c t p . and his wif w v y ivil and
to m e f er u er offere m e e kind , and a t s pp , d a shar
’ f e r o b re erre to o on o th i s n s ed . I p f d biv uack t he oor bu t n ew cou r es a o the fl , in nt i , and m ng
oorer e er the r the es a e for p s ttl s, ba n is b t pl c
the r e er ere m en oo U e r t av ll , wh my t k p th i
o o . e e e for c p siti n I nvi d th m, I was qui kly
o ere r e e s e ou t of the c v d with la g fl a , which cam
e r e oure ot n o ee sand ; I was n a ly d v d , and g sl p ;
e he e n ither had I any t night b fore . Whilst
fearfully tormented with insects of great size
u r o the u lem i as was and ind st y, p ssibly p g g , I
1 6 ’ 7 L ACAD IE . for they had had none since we left the B end ” bu t the oo e the e h fs sav d h ad .
On e cannot expect to shoot much game with
ex or r e ours w e ere so an pl ing pa ty lik , h n th is
o e on the much ch pping, h wing, and blazing ” e an d n o e o of s or lin , I had int nti n p ting w e u er oo rese u o o h n I nd t k my p nt d ty . I ap l gise for not here killing a fat bu ck .
W e re e the ou w e . ach d camp , and f nd all ll
The ou r for the e t e r er e c nt y, igh mil s t av s d by our e e ee the o erea lin , b tw n Salm n and Gasp u
ers is ro ou be e Riv , flat, and a ad c ld asily and
e e ro it sa for one u re and ch aply mad ac ss , y h nd d
r ou m e e r ro u erer thi ty p nds a il . I h a d f m a l mb on the o er ere are oo ar Salm n Riv , that th g d h d
oo r e n ot far off ou r e of ou w d idg s, lin , a th sand “ & re of oo one o c. ac s g d land in bl ck, It is
er e or o e er c tain that xpl ati ns mad at int vals , and r t e to ou r e o c o e at igh angl s lin , w uld dis l s
for e e u much good land settl m nt . L mberers “ wou be too of the e of er ld glad, , chanc timb ” hunting . ’
L ACAD IE . 1 77
o u the e es r we e ce e C ntin ing lin w twa d , d s nd d to the ere u ee uff e e Gasp a by a st p bl , and ncamp d on e e t of er e on the e t a small xt n int val land, as ”
ou e e o e the or s . bank, ab t nin mil s ab v F k W e got up our provisions by a canoe from
e as roof how r e o e Fl mings , and a p sca c m n y
e e r on e two o r was in th s pa ts, my s nding d lla s for o e o t for the two oe &c. o s m p tat s, , I had g m en e t the u e e the o M rs . e l f at h s , Fl ming kiss d
r o es she re ou s o m e t di ty n t , and had p vi ly t ld tha she had not seen the face of H er Maj esty on a s for ree e r hilling th y a s . To find out how best to cross the river with the ro to o er o e the f ul e of uff ad, v c m di fic ti s bl s one hundred and fifty feet high,I explored two
er ro e e r fro the ate lumb ads l ading astwa d m w r, and I found that by bringing the road with a
o r e to the r o e our e e c u s ight, and ab v lin , an asy descent might be made to a bridge which might
” o two re ou the r e of re et c st hund d p nds, is f sh s “ ” e ee b ing six f t . The ice jams are sometimes
erou the ere u bu t o w ere dang s in Gasp a , av iding h
e e e and o the rid e th y usually tak plac , pr viding b g I 3 ’
1 78 L ACAD IE . with pointed and well loaded piers slopin g up
r s ere wou be n o e r of e to wa d , th ld f a accid nts the stru cture .
The r e er who ro e our in e fi st s ttl had c ss d l ,
our e of fift - our e ro the e in a c s y f mil s f m B nd ,
o n ow appeared in the person of a M r . J seph
o er s who rr on his o er R b t , , ca ying sh uld a “ e e - ou of di orn the in s v nty p nd bag In an c , ( ” u e e o m ea e e of the val abl y ll w , which v n many
e r re e e ee to u se g nt y in I land hav lat ly b n glad ) , was proceedi ng from the mills b elow to his
o r r o r e o e ere we ere s lita y fa m , f u mil s ab v wh w ,
the e on the er and high st Gasp eau .
n e o t o M r . er s o ur e lo or I i vit d R b t tabl , (a g
o e the our e of o er o a st n ) , and in c s c nv sati n with
hi m he e o e we ou ro , m nti n d that w ld p bably
’ e to ros M cKean s roo o s er e hav c s B k, a c n id abl stream flowing into the Gaspereau from the
e wi h ffi u n s or w st , and th igh and di c lt ba k ,
c: ”
u]fs he er ed e . g , as t m th m By making a
ort e ro e of the r er o e u s p ag ac ss a b nd iv ab v ,
and e o of the ou of the roo g tting n rth m th b k,
he thou we o et on e e and ght w uld g l v l l , and l ’ 8 0 L ACAD IE .
all ou ee e e- r A t and st t Yank , lik a lif gua ds
we ere n ow e to see ou . man, cam up what w ab t
H e o u e o o o er was c mm nicativ , and t ld, am ng th t how he ee o for five hings , had b n l st days in the oo of the Orom oocto e er w ds , wh n timb
u su s e on the r or h nting, and had bsi t d Lab ad
’ tea err e e ll he fou u erer b y and l av s, ti nd a l mb s
rre of stu w shanty, and a ba l in it hich
H e not e t saved him . was a loyal s ubj ct of he
’ uee o ou e I n r be e e . t Q n s, c ld it xp ct d was a
e ure to oo rue m en pl as fall in with g d and t ,
di d New r o e o which I in B unswick, wh s s ngs
ere of eor e the u e of or e on w King G g , D k Y k, N ls
the e and Nil . I had seen altogether about ten miles of
he e e The soil on o er t Gasp r au . b th banks is v y
oo el e for e e e ere are g d, w l adapt d s ttl m nt ; th
r oo r e er e ha d w d idg s and int val land, and I heard a good accou nt of the river beyond what ” e ers u I saw. S ttl and sq atters are established
h er ere ere on t e r . e are oor h and th iv Th y p ,
e out f o the or e r en e b ing shut r m w ld, and th i s s ’
L ACAD IE . 1 8 1 of morality is not improved bv the roguery practised on them at the mills We are
er oor miserable at re e e , v y p and ‘ p s nt , th y said
“ thou gh living on good land ; but if a road is
e cros our ou r w be of the mad a s c nt y, it ill ” e e greatest service to u s . Th y stat d that this y ear had been mu ch worse for venomous flies
the five re e o e W e no than p c ding n s . had reason to doubt this . W e n ow forded the Gaspereau on the 1 0th of u was n ot e s w o s the J ly, which a y ith l ad , and water running very strong over the smooth
W e e on he e w ere o e . t st n s camp d w st bank, h we were detained for two days by heavy and
o s r o e w u er . On c n tant ain, acc mpani d ith th nd the or of the 1 1 th e I awoke m ning , wh n , my
e and oul er were re e r h ad sh d s d nch d with ain, which had poured through the soaked awning ; bu t o er r ru by bathing all v , and with ha d bbing, all was we o e er one ro ec e ll h w v , man , B wn , b am
er s ere ro o wet o er V y ick h f m c ld and , and an th ,
r c . cut his le se ere w axe Kilpat i k, g v ly ith an .
ure the r w ure of r u r I c d fi st ith tinct h ba b, 1 8 2 ’ L ACAD IE .
’ six our e w r s o er s o r er . and h s aft a d , D v p wd
The o er was ro er a ere ed th p p ly pl st d and bandag ,
e e the - w ou o and b cam chain man, ith t a l ad,
s e of o r who n ow oo e v in t ad J hn Blai , t k a h a y load withou t a murmur .
W e o u e our ro re e r c ntin d p g ss w stwa d, and on e the oo of the s ere u we l aving g d land Ga p a ,
’ ffere o e M cKean s r got to indi nt land ab v B ook .
er rre r we e on the 1 2th Aft a ba n t act, camp d of u o s ru e s re ou J ly am ng p c and bal am, p vi sly marking on a tree our fiftieth mile from the
ou e e e the fift - e e M ntain S ttl m nt , and y s v nth from the Bend .
the 1 3 th of u er o er On J ly, aft passing v a to er o e ou r for two es we re c e l ably p n c nt y mil , a h d
u e e e ro o the pp r Gasp r au . F m this p int to
ere we rs ee the a ere u the wh had fi t s n G sp a ,
er es co s er e e we riv tak a n id abl b nd, and had
h o f the e o er t e r o arc. o ers pass d v ch d Wild fl w ,
re r or tea ere ou the of lau , and Lab ad , w ab t banks the r er c was e e eet iv , whi h at this plac ighty f
ro e r e . The s re was b ad, and asily b idg d t am
wift o o r ds we ere s with ccasi nal api , and caught h
’ 1 8 4 CA L A D IE .
e o e e o e o oe m ss . S m tim s co k d p tat s and meat
one rre e cut out axe in ba l, which th y with an
w e ur re ou not e ee in int r . O fa c ld hav b n other t a e e was or e w s . han what it , b caus it p tabl As to h u M ac ill e or e t e ro M r . G r to b wn bisc it, p t d m e ere ru l ou ere ore th was g mb ing ab t it . I , th f ,
e e e e e the e imm diat ly call d all hands , xplain d stat of the e to e e eat the cas th m , said th y might
e re o e e whit b ad as l ng as it last d, that I m ant to eat the e e t o e e whit mys lf, tha I h p d th y would continue to work as cheerfully as they
er o o e en we ot furt er had hith t d n , and that wh g h “ ” on o e a- e to o e ow on , I w uld s nd h ad B i st n the r for we ere n ow ee Mi amichi, which w st ring , for o e ter m r bread to carry them through . Af t e e e e fie his th y r tir d to their tents quit satis d . A considerable trial of strength and of en
e r durance was n ow before u s . W had eached the e e of the re r fire of 1 8 2 5 sc n g at Mi amichi , when the country was ravaged and laid waste by the devouring element from the neighbour
o e o r hood of the Bay f Chal ur t Frede icton . ’
L ACAD IE . 1 8 5
ful oo e o er This aw calamity t k plac in Oct b ,
e the e- ore ful of re are r e u wh n pin f sts , l sin, d i d p
e e e of the u er sun are by int ns h at s mm , and then more liable to suffer from conflagration
we w than at any other time. A furious st ind
rr e the es ro r e er rou ca i d flam , a ing lik thund th gh the woo s ou e of u re ee o e d , and a c pl h nd d f t ab v the o es es o r e e ou l fti t pin , t wa ds N wcastl and D glas on the Miramichi the inhabitants abandoning
e r d we s w ere u c e u th i lling , hich w q i kly lick d p by the fire fled to the r er e r e s , iv , and mba k d ha tily
o s c oe on o to e r in b at , an s , and l gs , find th i way
o r o ll e o t . o e l w d wn Chatham T wns, vi ag s, and the scattered shanties of the lumberers were
e ce t e r du d o ashes . Many p ople were su rprised in the woods and p erished ; and it was calcu lated that five hu ndr ed mu st have been
e ro e o e er o orses e d st y d alt g th , al ng with h , cattl ,
ee w of all or e e o sh p , ild animals s ts , and v n salm n in the hot waters of the streams ; whilst the great fire raged through many hundred squ are
es of or mil magnificent f ests .
old oo to m e We e An w dsman said , want d 8 6 ’ 1 L ACAD IE .
fire ro the o ue to the r that f m T biq Mi amichi, the lumberers were very wicked ; they gloried in e r u er e r e fore led th i l mb , in th i pin sts, and very bad lives in their camps ; and when they
e o the e e e s e r cam int s ttl m nt , th y d ank, gam
e s ore ou . ur bl d, and w , and f ght Sat day and
u ere the e to e e S nday w all sam th m, and th y
for e er God he re n or e . T ca d n ith , man, d vil ” fire u e t on the was a j dgm n land .
The e e ru re rre l afl ss t nks , g y, and with cha d
u n ow oo roun us an d on e er b tts, st d d v y
e e o on the r of the sid , lik gh sts ma gin Styx, and we to ou t our rou to c had way th gh , and limb over with considerable exertion the prostrate
ree e e eco ro t s, windfalls, ntangl d with s nd g wth & of r fir c. bi ch, ,
e e of er a e es e roo O n a small pi c int v l , b id a b k ,
ere e er s e r ul r th was b av ign, and b ing pa tic a ly
ur ou s ou e er for re o e c i ab t b av s , a as n stat d in a
or er c a e we on e of the m en to f m h pt r, I nt with
e o W e oo ou ro look for th ir h u ses . s n f nd a st ng dam constructed with wonderful skill and
o t cro the s rea es e e e s lidi y a ss t m, and b id it th r
- h o e of was a large beaver house. T e flat d m
1 8 ’ 8 L ACAD IE .
The oo e e or e or e fu w ds b cam w s and w s , ll ” of the er l r what Am icans cal sna ls , that is,
r e er r e a d e o la g and small timb , b anch s n s c nd
ro er ce e six e e g wth int la d, and in plac s and s v n
ee . u rou e e or rr f t high C tting th gh th s , ca ying the c s o er e the er o e er pa k v th m , with th m m t at e the s e er e ere our ighty in had , was v y s v lab , and we ou n ot we u t ro ee or we c ld halt ; m s p c d,
ou e t our u e fe t e for sh ld xhaus s ppli s . I l gr atly the oor m en who n ot o to m e p , did c mplain ;
“ o er e r on e sa oe on we but I v h a d y, If this g s , ” ll be e sha kill d .
o e dr rre e r of w f An p n y ba n , cl a ind alls , at
’ the en d of e ere or od- se a s v day s w k was a g nd ,
we re e ke on e ous ee o and ach d a la th and f t l ng,
ere w ere e and with wild duck u pon it . H h th y
ere o re u re fir ou were er s r e w m st q i d, b ghs v y ca c ,
e and the b eds were made with ferns . W
e the e c re e of the fir miss d lasti ity and f shn ss , which is only to be equalled by that Scottish heather b eloved by the deer stalker The
of on e who e to o o the back man , stripp d g int h e o e e ore is o . lak , was c mpl t ly sc d with l ad At ’ E 1 L ACAD I . 8 9
s e the es m u s u itoes ere ar thi plac , fli and q w p
e ticularly venomou s and annoying . W were
e o or e e e k pt in c nstant t m nt by th m , and n xt morning there were very stiff legs in the party
o the ur oo e e ces r o fr m b nt w ds , and sw ll d fa f m
The oo m occassins o e the e . fli s b ts , , and cl th s
W e ere ru showed also great rents . w in t th a goodly company .
The r r of the of the l 6th of u fi st pa t day J ly , the woo s were e u u to oo at— e d b a tif l l k that is , th y
ere u of rou s of ou rc rees w f ll g p y ng bi h t , with t e r er e s re ree e e five or h i silv st m and f sh g n l av s , six stems growing rou nd the original grey and
cor e re e we e s ch d pa nt trunk . Wh n att mpted ” to ss o ese e ree the w pa am ng th ladylik t s, ind
s were o to be as u erou the fall f und n m s , and ” snarls as bad as ever ; but we persevered
the es M r h . r t e o e of the r with ax , Blai , ld st pa ty ,
r u r e er el w he pa tic la ly x ting hims f. I ish t
Queen and the D uke of Wellington could see ” us s one of the r : e had e , aid pa ty if th y , th y
could scarcely have believed we were loyal sub
ects of H er a e so r or j M j sty, g im and t n had ’
1 90 L ACAD IE .
u our we become . Th s cutting way and blazing
we ot to re m ee and chaining, g a st a with st p banks twenty-five degrees descent and twenty
ou oo e for r ascent . I f nd a g d plac b idging
e r the e o two re r ou n a lin , ab ut hund d ya ds s th of it . B eyond was a high growth of cherries ih di cating better land . Thou gh the party was suffering greatly from the fatigu e attendi ng the
ur woo et o er e the e er e e u s b nt ds , y v h ad w ath h lp d , for which we were very thankful The day before there was no breeze ; but it was a
ou s r but ree e cl dy day ; thi day was b ight, a b z
e e u we re e ro e of refr sh d s . At last ach d a g v
ree woo u of eo ee e g n ds, f ll pig ns, which s m d attracted there by the excellent water of what ” e er o e er x we named Dove W ll . Th m m t at si
- wo oo e A . M . s t e e M ixty at n n ighty ; at s v n P . .
- o sixty f ur .
the 1 th the ur oo co e On 7 , b nt w ds ntinu d with
e o ro r e r e we ro e s c nd g wth, bi ch and ch r i s ; c ss d two stre e on on e e small ams, and g tting a l g l v l
a n o t e the sun e t pl i with u wat r, with v ry brigh
’
1 9 2 L ACAD IE .
so to e the rr er as making camp , as sav ca i s
e c u mu ch as possible when th y ame p . At last
ore tre e T e e re but . he th y all app a d, s ly dis ss d scene too had n ot a tendency to raise their
Spirits ; the whole country was desolate and
e fire- ee o s e f on scath d with w d, which sh w its l
ur s r so e the b nt land , waving its c im n h ad in
ru u s r e wind . Black t nks and st mps , in t ang
ro es ue or s ere ere o er the g t q f m , w scatt d v land scape . Whilst looking for twigs and fern leaves to
e our e er r - o oure mak b ds , a v y thick and da k c l d “ w er e the s e to be at snak , black nak , said
o o ou o er e ou ee r p is n s, was bs v d ab t sixt n ya ds
h fi ou fro t e r er . ve ee o m iv It was f t l ng, and ab t
e e rou r ran r ed nin inch s nd . And é at it , and t i to o e o r the er kill it, as it m v d t wa ds wat , by
er r o e er r v tically a ching its b dy, lik a cat pilla , and n ot by gli ding in the usual manner of
e But he i e to e re o snak s . fa l d mak any imp ssi n on ou ree o of c its t gh skin with th bl ws a sti k,
and it disappeared under a prostrate log . ’ 1 L ACAD IE . 9 3
of rou our fo r e the A good dish t t , u th sinc
c u ere to the m en Bend, was a ght h , and I ld
e e e the or but n ot to disturb th ms lv s in m ning ,
in to sleep as long as they pleased . I was
s u r e f t two rather a ing la plight mys l , wi h black
ro the e fore e e eyes f m fly bit s , h ad, n ck, and
e rs t e e e red r ro ers a bi t n and sw ll d, shi t and t ws
o e rco o er s il d with cha al, and limbs c nsid ably
bruised from daily heavy falls in the burnt
the m en e oo s . o e o ere w d I ft n w nd d that , wh n
e e w e r o s n ot re e r th y f ll ith th i l ad , did b ak th i
ec or s or ere n ot rretr e ure n ks limb , w i i vably inj d
w e r o ith th i p inted knots .
As the er o e er on the 1 I said, th m m t 7th had
ee e e ree e r su e b n at ighty d g s all day n a ly, at ns t
- s four e rees b t r . u ee A . M 1 8 th ixty d g , at th , , I
o e the o r e t out to was aw k with c ld, and a shi t l f
dr was ff fro e W e y sti with st at sunris . h n I
was s n e ee the r axe who wa hi g, S g , fi st man, and
or o the wa e to m e was a M m n by y, cam and
s Sir to o on h ou but aid, , I wish g wit y , I
cannot ; I am completely done up ; I am getting
’ ’ e er e er o I ll e er w ak v y day, and I d n t think v
V OL . II. K l 4 ’ 9 L ACAD IE .
er reach Fred icton alive . I said I was very
sorry for his case ; that it was n ot to be won
ere as the ou r e ee so er d d at , c nt y had lat ly b n v y
ff cu s e w he e to di i lt, and I a k d him hat wish d
w ou e do ho . H e re e , and I c ld h lp him pli d
’ that he had been lumbering on Cain s River
e e He e o e e ers e or . o he b f kn w s m s ttl b l w, and wou tr e e e to et to e ld y, if I gav him l av , g th m on r re e ll he ot a aft , and main with th m ti g
o e e s m str ngth . As S egee was n ot the only on e who was
o e u e the m en o e er kn ck d p, I call d t g th , and asked them if there were any of them able to go on m e co e e the ur e to o e with , and mpl t s v y B i s
o the r e of the e u be com t wn , that su v y lin m st
leted cou n ot see re er o p , and that I ld F d ict n
ou e without having done so . That it w ld b
e to o e ere or se o the advisabl c nc al h , nd d wn r er on r s the e o e of iv aft , all h avy things , with s m the r e rr on the e the pa ty, and th n ca y lin with
he e ou r rest . T r sult was that within an h two r ere co ru e two f e afts w nst ct d, and hal t nts, the oo r u e or c king appa at s , fishing tackl , f ty
’
1 9 6 L ACAD IE .
’ tended that it should proceed down Cain s
River till help could be got to cross to the
r e to o e u the Mi amichi, and th n c m p main
r t r er e er o o oe o o e o . iv ith by wagg n, can , B i st wn
e to o o the r oe I m ant g d wn Mi amichi in a can ,
oo out for the r the and l k and assist pa ty, in event of its n ot reaching B oiestown as soon as the land party did . Thou gh there is n o doubt great excitement w s o eer n ew ds ex hil t acting as a pi n in lan ,
lorin r ae ore u e p g p im val f sts , climbing nnam d
s r re o to o hill , and d inking st ams unkn wn s ng ; thou gh the enthu siastic traveller
Juvat integros accedere fontes
A ue hauri re uva ovo s eses ere flores tq , j t n d p , yet it mu st be allowed that our present rou gh work was n ot such as wou ld be frequently nu ” r e u r r ue dertaken fo pl as e . Vi t is said to
“ ” be own re rd we o e e our its wa , and c nt nt d se e e we o the o o ess lv s as b st c uld, with c nsci usn of having done all that was possible for the ’ 1 L ACAD IE . 9 7
u e e er o r r u p blic s rvic , and und disc u aging ci c m stances . The commencement of our work on the
1 th of u e ere we to our 9 J ly was s v , as had cut way and chain through a mile of alder bu shes ; a erw r s the w was oo the oo s ft a d alking g d , w d were e ur off the ou r dr o e w ll b nt , c nt y was y, p n
h f ou c e r t e so o dl u . and l a , il mid ing q ality Th gh
r e we n ot but o er the it ain d did halt , c v ing
bread- bag with a small waterproof cloak we
re er e re e fin e roo we p s v d it , and ach d a b k t nty
ee w e w ross we e b six f t id , hich c ing, camp d y
o er ile fii rther on To ee u s ro an th a m . k p f m
the rou we cut r e off damp g nd, and st ipp d (with the assistance of a short stick) large
c r es of r ro se er ree on i cl ba k f m v al t s, and lay
them . On the 2otb we were soaked to our middles
the wet u e but we e on o e with b sh s , k pt d gg dly , passed thr ough burnt woods and two miles of
e u u ree oo we o b a tif l g n w ds , in which c nstantly !
m et r - r or e f s with Indian ma tin t aps, d ad all ;
o cut u ro e es of a n tch was in a st mp , and c ss pi c ’ . 1 9 8 L ACAD IE .
oo ere rr e to on the rt w d w a ang d fall ma in ,
e u e the the o wh n it p ll d at bait in n tch . W e
n ow found great relief from the flies by carry
u er the e arm a or e of o ing nd l ft t ch, mad l ng
e e of e r- r o o e er pi c s c da ba k b und t g th and lighted .
ou ere o the o e ur e It sm ld d sl wly, and sm k c l d
about ou r faces .
The o was oo the ree oo s il g d in g n w ds, and the r e ere e r e e e 810. t s w mapl , sp uc , balsam , pin , After the green woods there were difficult alder
e re but ro - k b ds, and small st ams ; in ad ma ing
We e ou t our these might be avoided . mad f miles and four rods this day ; but with plenty
of fir ou we e bed on b ghs mad a capital , which the m en e er ou owe er e ere sl pt v y s ndly ; h v , th y w so e er e to re o es o for the d t min d ach B i t wn , that
r e e ere e ore m e e t or fi st tim , th y w up b f n x m n
’
re for the or . ing , and making ady day s w k
The 2 1 st of u the ou r l e ur J ly, c nt y sti l w ll b nt
off few e or u to e , and with bush s st mps blaz w the r - axe rr e ith ma king , which I ca i d ; this, w o s havresack e ith a c mpas , and in a a sk tch
fi l - M r oo ro e d oo o . . b k, and ugh b k, was my l ad
200 ’ L ACAD IE . about this stream were impassable ; that we would require ropes and ladders to descend
e the ro e er oul be e th m, and that ad n v c d tak n
e h r u r our e e er f e ov r t e brook nea o c s . W th e or looked out for these difficulties with some
e e e u e anxi ty , but th y vanish d , as us ally happ ns , w t ou e one f e e . er r ourse h n ac s th m C ainly, in c
'
f . 3 w m e o er o 0 W . e t ee N , ca a v y st p
” ° uff of 3 0 e re o e of e e bl d p ssi n, and l ngth d sc nt two u re we - e fee but h nd d and t nty nin t, this
be o e as e e . might av id d, I hav indicat d
r At last, blazing and ma king, and making the old u r a the u t out of st mps c ack gain , d s fly
‘ t e o e of e tu e o er our h m , and s m th m mbl v , in ea er es to e we rr e the g n s mak a finish , a iv d at
ro e ee on the main ad b tw n Chatham , Miramichi,
re er o er our e - e o e and F d ict n , aft ighty s c nd chain d mile from the B end but ninety with windings
o t re w e o are to ab u st ams , hilst ighty additi nal be pu t down for our expeditions to get supplies h fro t e d e dts . ro o o of our e m p In p l ngati n lin , ” o r s the rro of the r and t wa d Na ws Mi amichi, a o th r e u e we saw e i b ut i ty mil s p str am , a b aut ’
L A CAD IE . 201
ful ou r efore r e fore t r es c nt y b us , va i d with s idg
T n ee e . he su o e r and sw ping vall ys sh n b ight ,
we ere e e to o on bu t e e n and w t mpt d g , xp cti g
’ Lieu tenant Simmons party to meet u s at Boies
o one e or of us it e n eces t wn, mil n th , and b ing s r to re ru the s re of r a y c it t ngth my pa ty, and
u l e ru on so far we ur e having f lfi l d my inst cti s , t n d w towards B oiesto n .
ro ee s or wa we e u o so e P c ding a h t y, cam p n m children gathering blu e berries on the hill- side
r e e ou r r u e e r ce f ight n d at wild and hi s t app a an ,
W e e e they incontinently fled . then pass d th
ou of the e er oo r e m th Tax s Riv , with a g d b idg o er ot we - ou e our u er v it, and g ll h s d, and h ng s e w o eso e ou r f re M ac atisfi d, ith wh l m c nt y a , in
’ kay s Inn at B oiestown on the Miramichi . ’
2 02 L ACAD IE .
CHAPTER VIII . — Return of the p arty to Fredericton Visit the Orom oocto — — Lake Stanley Expedition towards the Upper Mira — — michi in search of a bridge site A bear story Boots — instead of p ork Hu ngry camp at the N apadaagan — — Lake The Miramichi Lake Are lost in the woods — View fro m Mount Alexander Reach th e Miramichi
’ ’ — — r ra s five A boy s adventure in th e woods M . G nt — days in the wilderne ss Partial surveyZof the M iramichi — — — — The Narrows Slate I sland The N aygog Leprosy — — in New Brun swick Proceed to Nova S cotia Visit the — — author of S am Slick Halifax Visit a camp of M ic — — m ac Indians Leave for Annap olis Mutineers of the
a a — a al acc e at th e ra a s— u S l din F t id nt G nd F ll Lie t .
’ W o o s a ve re w wo ves— e r to o d d ntu ith l R tu n M ntreal .
FOU o e o o o e e the I ND at B i st wn C l n l Hayn , ~ Chief C ommissioner of the N ova Scotian and
’
204 L ACAD IE .
done I t o t e t to set o t e e , h ugh it b s ab u it in arn st ,
e o er u e o er e and hav it v , and th s sav a c nsid abl
sum to Government as well as our own skins .
The r off the e e pa ty was paid in m antim , with
a Gill r the e e o of M r M c . xc pti n . and And é I remained a short time in Fredericton to
re re re or re or t p pa p ts and maps , and I c d wi h great satisfaction the many attentions shown m e
the eu e - o er or f by Li t nant G v n and his amily,
- a o the or or e e er M r . ls by w thy Att n y G n al,
e er Mr. r er the er of the o P t s, Pa k , Mast R lls ,
- M r . ree e r & o e o o e c. St t, S licit r G n al , I als mad two or three very agreeable excursions with my fr e ro e or o the r r e i nd P f ss R bb, by th iving Ha v y
e e e to the e u u Orom oocto e &c . S ttl m nt b a tif l Lak , whilst waiting to hear from Lieutenants Sim
o oo w o e or to m ns and W ds , with h s w k I was
o e m e e ou er a the c nn ct in , wh n I sh ld asc t in “ course they were steeringfi
I beg particularly to direct the attention of the fu ure rave er N ew ru sw c to the a ou a t t ll in B n i k B ld M nt in , near the ar e s e e is H v y ettl m nt . It a great mass of por ’
L ACAD IE . 205
To o e no e o e er re re for an l s tim , h w v , I p pa d
e e o to the U er r to oer xp diti n pp Mi amichi, as tain where it could be crossed by a bridge for
the r ro c rt of milita y ad, and whi h was pa my
e for e instructions . I l ft Stanl y in a light
wa o o o e e ro o e to gg n, C l n l Hayn having p p s d
accompany m e from that place (the principal station of the Land C ompany) towards the Mira
to e e e s r rr e e michi, and mak all n c s a y a ang m nts
To reach Stanley we went along the B oies
ow ro to the ou of the ree e t n ad m th Tay C k , th n
n ew rro ffere ro to by a , na w, and indi nt ad ,
e r er e o re our Stanl y . My d iv said h c uld ach
e o e -five e ro re er o d stinati n , tw nty mil s f m F d ict n ,
in ree o r bu t we oo ro four M P . . th h u s , t k f m till
e e e e ore we saw the e l v n at night b f plac , having b een obliged to lead the horse for many miles
the r to t the o o er elle in da k, and lif wagg n v f d
re t es .
h r w a a e robab the cra er ear the p y y , ith l k (p ly in t ) n
s u . i s on the e e of the coa easures w ere mmit It dg l m , h
e ou c h t e s a e . the arve se e e th y t h l t All H y ttl m nt, in fac i s on th e ver e e of ese roc s . t, y dg th k 6 ’ 20 L ACAD IE .
The Settlement of Stanley consisted at this
t e of few t ere o e c r l im a sca t d h us s , a hu ch , a mil ,
u r ro the re (with a dam, as sual, ight ac ss st am ,
’ and no fish- t er r e er way ,) a av n , ca p nt s and
’ o &c It is e on blacksmith s sh ps , . situat d a
ee o e on the ou of the N k st p sl p , s th bank ashwaa
er ere oo e of r Riv . Th was a g d d al land clea ed
ou the e e e t the or con ab t s ttl m n , and n th bank
e o re e sist d of valu able hard w od ridges . I c ived every civility and attention from C olonel and
M rs e e ut e no . e o b h t Hayn , at th ir h us , as was
e to t at o e o e to re abl star nc , I was blig d main
e for two e at Stanl y days , during which tim ,
as o e re o re e of r it had d n p vi usly, a g at d al ain
e f ll .
The o o e e to Bo e o to e two C l n l s nt i st wn, dir ct
m en with a canoe and provisions to go up the
r to eet us at the o e of the Mi amichi, and m utl t
r e e o the o t e to Mi amichi Lak , b l w p in I wish d
r he look for b idge sites . On t m orning of the
of t eft e on foo sixth Augus , I l Stanl y t, and
o e o o e e who rou t acc mpani d by C l n l Hayn , b gh
S o e or M r . u with him his c tch surv y , Wa gh, and
2 08 ’ L ACAD IE .
’ f on the e r r h en all b a s back and c us him, wh
he ul p led at the bait of salt fish inside.
A man once incautiou sly approached a bear
who u but n ot e one of e e was ca ght , kill d; in th s
r The er ot o o th t . f e re aps latt g h ld man , th w
‘ ow e o l r u e . H e him d n , and gnaw d his sh d at
o e effor s ere the last, with vi l nt t , mast d animal,
e th o of oo he and kill d it , but, faint wi l ss bl d ,
e e the e u e to et lay b sid d ad fall, nabl g away .
do e to e e r off His g cam up him, wh n , t a ing
ort o of oo rt he f e e a p i n his bl dy shi , ast n d it
’
rou the o e e o e. nd d g s n ck , and s nt it h m His
fe u e e o e ro wi g ss d that s m thing was w ng , and
came to his assistance .
er o ten e we e to Aft acc mplishing mil s, halt d
- eat o of re boil the tea kettle and . A l af b ad and a few crackers (a small round biscui t the
u size of grape shot) were produced . W e fo nd that through some carelessness the more sub
l n n stan tia via ds had been forgette . It was
e no u e n o a bad b ginning ; Indian g id , and
e for er ree r m at p haps th days , and with ha d ’
L ACAD IE . 2 09
bu t we our e the re and walking , did b st with b ad
tea e o u e our ro e . , and th n c ntin d ut
W e s e o two er ee e e pa s d d wn v y st p d sc nts ,
e e s ee c ro re and asc nd d a t p ac livity, c ssing st ams, r unning apparently to the Nashwaak and to the
e vers u se fou our e e Tax s Ri , and at s n t nd s lv s at
or e but o ere w a small Indian camp, mpty , c v d ith
r u e the er ba k, and s d in wint as a hunting lodge this was abou t twenty miles from
e the Na adaa an e . Stanl y, and at p g Lak
rou e ee s o was refull A g s had b n h t, and it ca y
v e w e re for su er o di id d, ith a littl b ad pp , am ng
t x e he si . W did n ot pass a very comfortable
n . W e ere o of u s er u r the ight w m st v y h ng y,
was hot o e e u s on e of the night and cl s , fl as bit ,
m en ore terrificall r e out his sn d y, and c i d in
ee e ot o of sl p, thinking a wild b ast had g h ld him
and there was a disagreeable smell of old b ears
‘ e the hut u er oo we m at in . I nd st d were to
have climbed a high hill before we reached
the r e ke ou r e Mi amichi, and wh n I as d guid
on the or of the th w ere was he m ning 7 h it ,
s was ten e on our r s aid it mil s ight, and thi ’
L ACAD IE .
o o t r e so e on the p ssibly is M un Bainb idg , nam d
’ New ru o fro B nswick C mpany s map , and m its barehead a good view is said to be had of the country sou th of it . W e passed rou nd the west side of the Napa
e e re to be o one daagan Lak . It app a d ab ut and
e r u ore ere a half mil s in ci c it ; its sh s w swampy ,
e of o ro e ere a b lt m ss was all und , and th n th were ore of ru e r thick f sts sp c , balsam, dwa f
& r ere u s on e c . e e d mapl , Th w many wild ck the e bu t e ru e e ell the Lak , th y p d ntly k pt w in
dle of re o e e s ou mid it otter we als s en . W h ld have eaten them if we could have got them into o u r r - f ying pan .
ou ou r e rou rou n Ab t f mil s th gh swampy g d , w ere s ru ce e r oo ith scatt d p and th n ha d w d,
rou u s to the r e b ght Mi amichi Lak , which was
e u not noticed in any map . This is a b a tiful
e e of er two e o fine pi c wat , mil s l ng , with a
r of ou o ere h st and sand, and hills ab t it, c v d wit
r wo oe ha d wood . Finding t Indian can s and
e we e off o the e paddl s, push d int Lak , and
w u e u few u e s eed e o r . ca ght a ch b , which p ily d v d
2 1 2 ’ L ACAD IE .
ea e to ee bu t n ot er com ch, and w nt sl p , v y fortabl ou r u er err e y ; h ng was t ibl , and it was ev e t we u e o our id n had q it l st way .
the 8 th was e er e to e On , it d t min d mak a
o e r r h e ere b ld ffo t to each t e Miramichi . W w
r M . r f o ur r er u ou A . e e n fo p at f , b ak ast d c ack s
r of er and ol o e the and a d ink wat , f l w d Duncan,
le e - u e . H e d rou r e g id th gh ald b ds , in which we to ou r ee ot e sank kn s , and g h avy falls , and I was deeply cu t in the right hand with an
axe . ee the e com At last , s ing that guid had
letel o elf too the p y l st hims and us , and that remains of a lumb er-camp which he found was
e ee e r old the tr s at l ast fift n y a s , and all ack
ou ere o er ro to o o e f nd w v g wn , I said C l n l Hayne that it was absurd to follow these old
r o er t we ere now t acks any l ng , and hat , as w e e o the oo ro o e to tr vid ntly l st in w ds , I p p s d y
et the r to the r the and g pa ty Mi amichi, with
s e of o e - o a sistanc my p ck t c mpass , which had
o o done g od service bef re.
n ow too the e of eere I k plac Duncan, and st d ’
L ACAD IE . 2 1 3
ou r e. uc e a N . E . c s B hanan , my acting h nch
a e hl er er man, Sky Hig and , a v y willing, s ro oo ce e ree b e t ng, and g d man, as nd d a t y f lling
ou ru e a t u ou a y ng sp c ag ins it, th s m nting a natural ladder ; bu t he could make nothing of the country except boundless forests and distant
on we ou our e ve r e . o u idg s C ntin ing , f nd s l s at the e of woo e l and u rsu bas a d d hil , still p ing a
w wa o w . re o s e ou N E . di cti n, hich I in h p s ld cut some of the supposed windings of the
Miramichi ; we ascended painfully to the su the oor m en the s of mmit, p with pack
- & e s r e e c . e er blank t , f ying pan, k ttl , , b ing in a v y
r educed state .
u e e to the o e e I p ll d my b lt last h l , and it th n
e o er m ow slipp d down v y hau nches . I sat d n
oo e at e er e s ou t and l k d my l ath l ggin , and I th gh
we n ot et ou t da e us that if did g that y, th y m t
be ro e e e to- orrow m occassins ast d and at n m , and
all was e to ou ro ; in fact , I inclin d p nd, ast, and
eat e on the s o ee ffere th m p t, having s n as indi nt
re use on re ou s r e e o fa d a p vi Af ican xp diti n .
the r oo e er e e u e All pa ty l k d v y pal and att n at d, 2 14 ’ L ACAD IE . and yet the remorseless flies continued to draw the s e er bloo d out of u s as greedily a v . I climbed a high tree on the hill (which was granitic and about five hu ndred or six hundred
ee o e the e o saw t ro f t ab v plains b l w) , and I a vas p s
e re r e . f u ct of o . . . o s but not p f st idg s N N E and E ,
e e the oo e e -no er n o an y in w d d landscap , wat , r er saw iv . I indications of a valley far before
. f u s . w o u s . o as to , and N E It a l ng walk it , b e r e W e ut it s emed ou only chance of scape .
e o the l e e e e er stalk d d wn hi l , and I xp ct d v y moment that the m en would give in ; but they
e f the di d n ot ou o re . One o , th gh ft n sting
o c e re e on our e We Sc t hm n , fl cting cas , said,
’ mu st j u st do the best we can ; we ve seen a
oo few of but no the r wan . g d paths, ight If
the o ere o e we do e er . l ads w b ttl s , might b tt It is very akkward I n ow thought that ou r best plan was to
o ow the r roo we e ru f ll fi st b k f ll in with, nning
E . two P . th to the . or . M . e N N ; and at , glad
er m et W e fol sound of ru shing wat s our ears .
o e the re the ro r fe l w d st am ; g und apidly ll, and
’
2 1 6 L ACAD IE .
o e us ee o u h inv lv d in swamps, and th b n l st m c
o er o e of the r oul o t e l ng , s m pa ty w d m s lik ly have perished . I was mu ch pleased with the appearance of the r the er o - ree Mi amichi at Rang R cks , th Rocks of granite in a diagonal line across the
e n e The r er ru e river where w ow wer . iv sh d
r s f l re m our or five b i kly, and with a u l st a f
ee ee o er ro e f t d p , v its cky chann l, and its banks ,
c ot e w r e e er m et the re l h d ith la g mix d timb , st am w It r e t ee e e . ith a st p d sc nt is st ang , tha . though this is the second river in the province
of New ru ere ee no ur e B nswick, th had b n s v y
in of . r re e ree e e it Its apids p v nt its f zing , xc pt
“ ” the er or o s as the u erer still wat , p nd , l mb s
call them ; and it is impossible to pass up in
- r s ow s oe . e to r e e n h s in wint and su v y it th n , as
o er New ru w er e r th B ns ick Riv s hav been su veyed . Bu t a survey might yet be made by poling two
oe u re o e e e ee can s p st am , with s m distanc b tw n
e t the e from one oe to th m , and aking angl s can
the other by means of that very convenient ’ L ACAD IE . 2 1 7
! ru e the m ro e er c ee inst m nt, ic m t , whi h has b n so successfully u sed in the survey of some
r ers r e M r . . o Canadian iv by my f i nd, W L gan , the provincial geologist .
the m or of the 9 th we ere u On ning , w p at
ou r as u su s e for re s c f al , and fi h d b akfa t , atching
- The e deliciou s salmo n trou t . Upp r Miramichi is full of salmon of the very b est quality ; one
e e e er could n ot tir ating th m day aft day . I was taking up my axe to walk u p stream with two of the m en to the outlet of the Miramichi
e to tr the c oe ro o es ow Lak , y and find an f m B i t n ,
to see the rrows w c u erer and Na , hi h a l mb had
o m e he ou do for r d t ld th ght might b i ging, when fortu nately the canoe came rou nd the
th r er e he e point of e iv abov u s . T cano m en said they had waited a day for us at the mou th of the ou e or a e roo an d e for the tl t, L k B k, th n ,
rs e e r ves o e the oe u fi t tim in th i li , had p l d can p
ee o ur r c the e e it, and had s n t a k at Lak ; th y
’ Rochon s cro e er esco e mi m t tel p .
V OL . II . L 2 1 8 ’ L ACAD IE .
t e re e for e h n turn d to search us . Th y had
t e or re d five o we e r e wi h th m p k, b a , salm n , t lv la g
e & rou cr ers c e e c. e t t t, ack , a h s , It was a f as
’
ee er ree e . ind d, aft a th days famin People are lost in the woods every year in
New B ru nswick ; some never appear again ;
e e u e e r o e are th y sink xha st d, and th i b di s
e oure e The e e d v d by wild b asts . anxi ty th y suffer b efore the clos e of the scene mu st be
the e r u e e e e of u er . f a f lly int ns , b sid s pangs h ng
A boy had b een lost for five days in the woods .
People went to search for him ; they found
e bu t w f e de ro e w him aliv , ith his ac st y d ith
es he e on err es was so fli ; had liv d b i , and ” es e se f e r he n ot b id him l with f a , that had thought of eating a biscu it which was in his
e the ow pocket all the tim . H e said that ls swoo e o n eeked p d d w at him, and p at him,
f e was raw e For the e thinking his ac m at . sam re o owl ee ow to rr off as n, an has b n kn n ca y a
’ red off e the oo cap a man s h ad in w ds, and fly up into a tree with it .
’
2 2 0 L ACAD IE . to thaw them m the stream ; then pulling down
er be e er e to as a tall ald , ti d his handk chi f it
let o he o ro e on a signal, and it g again als w t
s of er how he o e e slip pap was l st , and s nt th m
n down the stream o split chips of wood .
C rawling back among some alders and long
r he res e elf o the of g ass, ign d hims int hands the Almighty .
uffe r r e His s rings f om hunge were most s vere .
the 9 th he r e e to the r er to On , d agg d hims lf iv
dr the r e orre . ink, and in night it ain d in t nts
the l oth to re o he saw r On , his g at j y, a pa ty of woodsmen with horses on the opposite side of the r er but he ou e no sou to iv , c ld mak nd
rres he r e o e e w he a t t i att nti n th y w nt a ay, and
ou h ou u re co e th ght then his last r was s ly m .
er o e our e re ur e Aft s m h s th y t n d, and by a v o e effor he u ere cr e i l nt t, tt d a wild y, th y saw
re u e w re re he him and sc d him, and ith g at ca ,
o was rec vered .
C olonel Hayne and myself n ow got into the c oe to o e u re m see the rrow an p l p st a , and Na s,
are fort e o e o e o which y mil s ab v B i st wn , and ’
L A CAD IE . 2 2 1
e m e M r u to leaving the thr e n with . Wa gh make
r or r for e r ss e ow the a catama an aft , th i pa ag d n
r W e rs se oo e ll on the rive . fi t pas d a w d d hi
’ r ou e e M cD on ald s ight , with t a nam , th n ” roo ou ou r e e the s er B k, and f nd s lv s in till wat s
’ of M cMillan s Pond a capital place to haul
’ ” Poff s e e was the e o the se e . in D f at n xt p int,
er s ro r w c u erer off a v y t ng apid , hi h a l mb , P ,
ur ca oe was had been unable to s urmount . O n ” set u w f u ou our oe p ith di fic lty , th gh can m en s o e Were er ower u , Lin c tt and B ll, v y p f l w the o e e w e our e es u ith p l . Th n e forc d s lv p
’ e er s r s u er rc s P t apids pa sing pp Bi h I land ,
’ e M cKeel s roo so re c e the n xt B k, and a h d
rro er o of the r Na ws . I am v y f nd Mi amichi,
e o recor e er and I lik t d v y name on it .
ex or o suc as a on w c On pl ati ns, h th t hi h I
was n ow e e er e ess r to see ngag d, it is v y n c a y
’ e er w o e own e es The re v ything ith n s y . imp s
s o rece e of the rrow of i n I had iv d Na s , was that
ff e os the r er o r high cli s ncl ing iv , and c nt acting
its t channel . I s channel was contracted cer
tainly to sixty or seventy feet ; n ot by cliffs 2 2 2 ’ L A CAD IE .
owe er bu t r e roc our five h v , by g anit ks, f and
ee e o e the s re s for f t in h ight ab v t am , and thi
apparently abou t half a mile. I examined the
on o e the ou low banks b th sid s ; s th bank is ,
the or is ee o s of r e i n n th st p , and c nsi ts g anit
situ of cou rse difficult to work and expensive ;
I then thought we must look elsewhere for the
site of the first bridge which is to cross the
r Mi amichi .
W e re urn e to our r on our t d pa ty, and way
do oo o of V e the oo e wn had a g d p int i w, at w d d
ou we re e m ed rom m nt had c ntly cli b , and f
e r which we had st e ed for the river . It is in the territory of the N ew Brunswick Land Com
o o e a e ro o e to e pany, and C l n l H yn p p s d nam it
er se c oo as o aft my lf, whi h I t k a high c mpli
e . M r au ss s s m nt . W gh and his a i tant had
e m r w c e er fail d in aking a aft , hi h was as w ll p
s or e e ee row e the hap , th y might hav b n d n d in
the e r . M r . u o apids Taking Wa gh in can , w c u e five the ree m en w e hi h j st h ld , th alk d
ow re e for u s ur d n st am , and mad camp at B nt
Hill .
2 24 ’ L ACAD IE .
night at Burnt Hill we lighted chips of pitch
e l ro r e u o e the ow pin in a sma l i n g at , h ng ab v b s
of the canoe : this enabled u s to see the fish in
h r o o e t e e . e s s the st am C l n l Hayn , whil t u ing
n a o e er ee s er yg g, and b ing a v y k n fi h man,
overbalanced himself and fell overb oard in a
erou s r but he was ee re cu e dang apid , Sp dily s d .
” e the e r er roo we N xt day at Cl a Wat B k,
’ ou two m en re o er f nd p sing aft a night s fishing ,
during which they had speared thirty- seven
w we e o r se . salm n and g il s , hich saw Th y had
brought barrels and salt with them to lay in
’ was e o their winter s s tore of fish . It pl asant t
contrast this with the inj ury cau sed to the
e ers on o er r ers w e s ttl th iv by mill dams, h n
mil races might do the work of a saw mill
withou t destroying the fish .
The two s er e ere re to e our fi h m n w hi d . tak
m en down the river in their canoe after their
the er e ue . r lat fatig s At Fall Riv , I sc am
e rou the u s u ll o ere bl d th gh b h , and p a hi , c v d
e c ous ue err e ere oo e with d li i bl b i s, and wh I l k d
ou for e rs to et ew of o e ab t b a , g a Vi a hands m ’ L ACAD IE 2 25 ,
w r x e ee ate fall si ty or sev nty f t high . At
’ ” Kyve s Pond and other favourite fishing
e r e ro oo the ree . Our plac s , la g t ut t k fly f ly
s e ow the r er w oo e pas ag d n iv ith its w d d hills ,
s c ure ue s o r high bank , pi t sq i lands, f aming apids,
e e e s or was u e e s e cur and xc ll nt p t, q it a pl a ant x
o we soo or o the ser e of ou r si n , and n f g t mi i s
he ree r c er a s e r o or t . lat sta vati n , th c a k d y h W e asse the r of M r . o es t e p d fa m B i ,
ou er of o es ow who e to m e on f nd B i t n , cam my se for r rou of the nding him, b inging a gh map
e a er of ou s country . H w s an Am ican ab t ixty
e r of a e bu t s ro ul of s e y a s g , still t ng, and f l p
’ ul ion o es nati on was c at s of all kinds ; Mr . B i that the military road should go by B oiestown to the r c e e cross the ou Mi ami hi Lak , th n S th
r of the r er so on to the r b anch iv , and G and
s w ere s M r . c or Fall ; h a Ma kay, my landl d, an ex er e e s er u erer was of o o p i nc d ma t l mb , pini n that the swamp and lakes west of the Mirami chi Lake would n ot answer for the road ; there fore it is believed that State Island is the point to steer for ; u nless the Miramichi is bridged at
L 3 ’ 2 IE 2 6 L ACAD .
B oiestown with the assistance of on e of the
er islands th e.
e This geological fact may be inter sting . In New Bru nswick there is an anticlinal axis of
granite ; Professor Robb observed granite in si tu
the ou of the Pokiok er on the at m th Riv , St .
’ o the ou of the Ni issi u it J hn s, and at m th p q ,
of eur saw r e the Bay Chal , and as I g anit at Narrows of the Miramichi in the line from the
Pokiok to the Ni issi u it ou e r p q , it w ld app a that a belt of igneou s rock runs in a u niform course
ro the ro e o a r ac ss p vinc diag nally , and th t st ati i fied ro s as e s o e &c. l e u to ck , slat , sand t n , p
h . N . W e of r e o on the S E . t is idg , b th and sid s the e u e or u e lin j st indicat d, and it was f t nat then that the line proposed for the military ro ro e the r e not run o ad, c ss d g anit and did al ng with it .
e r e to re er o com I r tu n d F d ict n, and having
leted or the e for e r p my w k in fi ld this y a , I was directed to leave my stores at the grou nd Falls
ro ee o and p c d t Canada .
About this time considerable anxiety pre
2 2 8 ’ L ACAD IE .
o e to s re is o ro re all w d p ad , it sl w in its p g ss ,
oc o e and is thus manageable . It casi n d some
anxiety to us in the Bush u ntil it was known
that the Lieu tenant- Governor had caused a laza
re o to be es a e on e r e tt t blish d Sh ld ak Island ,
e r w ere the se se o urre ere all n a h di a cc d , and wh
the lepers that could be collected were con
fined . It is n ot generally known that recent cases of
e ro e ee see re the roe l p sy hav b n n in I land, Fa
s e ar e r o e Island , Sh tland , S dinia, Mad i a , H lst in , the r e e o an d e ee C im a, and C yl n , I hav s n it
r f equ ently in the East and West Indies . I have n o doubt that with the precau tions which
e ee e we s e r n o ore of hav b n tak n , hall h a m this
se e N ew ru sw or di as in B n ick, and that it igi
” n ated e e rt s u w o e o in indig nc , di , canty and n h l s me
e e osure to e re e e er ure di t , and xp xt m t mp at s .
The patients in the lazaretto improved u nder
e r m dical t eatment . The principal remedies used were alternate doses of bichloride of m er
r o e cu y and i din .
’ n ow en M r M I s t . acGill and Andre to the ’
L ACAD IE . 2 2 9
r c r e of s ore to st G and Falls , in ha g my t s , and assi
o s er P e Lieutenants Simmons and W od th e . r viousl to re ur to m e run to y t ning Canada, I ad a
o o to s ro er who ee N va Sc tia vi it my b th , had b n in command of the reserve Battalion Rifle
r e ee e u so e B igad , and had b n g tting p m dashing
f er & s s c ar es o c . ham fight with h g Lanc s, I
’ e o s the w nt from St . J hn in Saxe Gotha
e er on e of the se era er ffere St am , v l v y indi nt ones which traversed the dangerou s Bay of
w its o s ru s u es . F ndy, ith f g and high hing tid
’ e d Or arr ve at W s r o . ere Passing Cap , I i d ind Th
saw or a the eu e over or I L d Falkl nd , Li t nant G n ;
re co ex o e an s te a tall and f sh mpl i n d m , and I vi i d
u e u r o the e u or of J dg Halib t n , inimitabl a th ” c the o & c er c . Sam Sli k , Cl kmak , , living in his delightful cou ntry residence that rested on a bed of u o er oo the V e gyps m , v l king smiling illag of or the s of e Winds and Ba in Min s .
u e ur o is a ower u e m an J dg Halib t n p f lly mad ,
ee ru u e re r six f t high , with a bic nd fac , g y hai , and a most observing and hu morou s grey eye 2 3 0 ’ L ACAD IE .
his e u o r e ef in h ad . O r disc u s was chi ly on
the r c e the e ou r oo i h dyk d lands in n ighb h d, which had yielded abu ndant crops for one hun
dred years withou t manure .
I had some difficulty in getting to Halifax fro or e e the e m Winds , as his Exc ll ncy Li u
e o er or r e the e t nant G v n was t av lling sam way, h e u re t e or e . o e er and had s c d all h s s H w v , by
o r er j ining company with M . Chamb lain and
M r i . er o of f ot on n And s n Hali ax, I g a one orse e c e o o to h v hi l , which ccasi ning us
k the r o e o er e e wal up A d is and th hills , nabl d m e to admire the Views of the u ndulating and
r va ied surface of Nova Scotia .
we e re a the ou r As n a d Halif x, c nt y was roc w u erou e r e ky, ith n m s lak s and small sp uc
e re r u ar our r e rou tre s . I admi d pa tic l ly d iv nd ” t fine sea e e or hat lak B df d Basin, with its
s e oo e ores the i l ts and w d d sh , and passing re of ou r - ou e ro u for mains a c nt y h s , with a t nda
u ro of ere o e e the m sic in f nt it, wh nc dw lt
er of H er e the e of e t we fath Maj sty, Duk K n ,
’
2 3 2 L ACAD IE .
e on r e on the rou rou t to plac d a ci cl g nd , b gh
o o ere w r r . o a p int, and c v d ith bi ch ba k M st
of the m en were out u or t o e h nting fishing, h s who were at the lodges seemed a slighter made
r e the s of the e ac than Indian Canadian Lak s .
e row o e o s o r e Th y had light b n c mpl xi n , c a s black
r ou was hot e er o e or hai , and th gh it w ath , s m
r u h e we e s cf e . T e o e th m t nic blank ts w m n, some of whom had good hu moured oval faces
oo r e e ere os r and g d hai and y s , w m tly in da k
e o s or o s c o e p ttic ats and chintz h t g wn , l th l ggings
m occassins were e and , and making light bask ts for sale ; also very handsom e chair b ottoms of
r r or e e w e or u e bi ch ba k, nam nt d ith dy d p c pin
u s an d were em ro er er e on q ill , b id ing v y n atly
r cloth with b eads and moose hai . The Indians h ave a peculiar drawling way of s s e e e e peaking . I a k d a middl ag d dam in a
o c o e ro ere w e t c nical l th cap mb id d ith b ads , wha she or she : e t was w king at, said Yay s , tha is
r o o va re oo e . u o e chai b tt m ; y y g d, yay s S pp s
ou e five do r for e n y giv lla him, yay s ; India ” e e mak him, yay s . ’
L ACAD IE . 2 3 3
‘ The remains of the Micmac and M elicite
r e of o o New ru t ib s N va Sc tia and B nswick,
The m n amou nt to a few hundreds . e hu nt
the oose c r ou in u u er m and a ib a t mn and wint , and fish during the spring and su mmer whilst the women live in open camps near settlements
u er w ere e s o e of e r t in s mm , h th y di p s th i ligh w re er the o es are re o e to a s . In wint l dg m v d
e f h Sheltered situations in the d pths o t e woods .
oo the ur o On l king at Micmacs, it was c i us to reflect that these were the descendants of the
eo e who the rs e e e of Chelbu cto p pl at fi t s ttl m nt ,
n ow f x 1 4 9 u e to Se rou Hali a , in 7 , s d t al th gh
the ores s s su e the f ts, and wamp , dd nly attack
fir e r s a or e e s st mig ant , sl y mak captiv , calp
r e e are n ow er e ce and tortu e th m . Th y v y p a
o e bu t e es e e ee ably disp s d, lik gipsi , th y hav b n
ff r u known to carry o child en . Th s two
dau ghters of a farmer who lived at Petitcodiac
er s er ou s sa e re e Riv , having my t i ly di pp a d tw nty
se e e rs a o were ou o the cs v n y a g , f nd am ng Micma
s u er thi s mm . When they were nine and 2 34 ’ L ACAD IE . seven years of age they had gone out to look for the o o the ro w ere ere was c ws al ng ad, h th
f The an encampment o Indi ans . children not re ur o e the o er e to oo for t ning h m , m th w nt l k
e but e were o ere to be ee th m, th y n wh s n ;
e se r e for e for ee dilig nt a ch was mad th m a w k,
r e e but to no pu p os . All this whil the Indians
o e e e in the us w e c nc al d th m thick b h , and h n the re e r the u re child n h a d signal g ns fi d, and
’ e r e to o o e the e th y c i d g h m , Indians said, W ll ” e ou o e but e oo e to r e tak y h m , th y t k th m P inc
’ w r e e e e re o ere . r Ed a d s Island Wh n th y w c v d ,
e ere u e e one of e th y w q it Indianiz d, and th m
c re wou n ot her r e having hild n , ld stay with f i nds , but re erre the oo the e m oc p f d w ds , blank t , and cassin s to civilized habits .
Wishing to see s ome more of the province of o o to e r for the o of N va Sc tia, and s a ch t mb
es or the r o er or who an anc t , fi st G v n , and had
e o two e ur es a o re ur e di d at Annap lis c nt i g , I t n d
o r or o the t wa ds Winds , in c mpany with family th h of Judge Bliss . On e outside of t e coach
2 3 6 ’ L ACA D IE .
I continued my progress westward along a
er e e u e on e of the o t f til and d lightf l vall y, m s
eerf l the N ew or s e ere rom ch u in W ld , and h lt d f the Bay of Fu ndy by the ridge called the North
t at r e ou . s e o e s M ntain I l p B idg t wn , th n pas ing
B oo ree the scene of ur erou ff r l dy C k, a m d s a ai
the or e the o e e ro e with ab igin s in ld n tim , I c ss d
r e - o eere in a p imitiv sail b at, which a man st d w c ar the er a o e ith an , Riv Ann p lis, which s pa r e m e ro or o or the o of at d f m P t R yal, t wn Anna
o s o e the t of re or p li , nc capi al F nch Acadia,
’ A a ie L c d .
Annapolis is very pleasantly situ ated on a
- o e ere o er u land l ck d bay , in which th is a w nd f l
r e of e ou is and fall tid . There are only ab t
x ou ses a e e ro o s w c s oo si ty h in this l t m t p li , hi h t d
two e es the re c er e was si g by F n h , aft its nam
e o our o f u ee e ere chang d in h n Q n Ann . Th is
re u r or er e w ere was e c a g la f t h , in hich th a d ta h
e of the l ifle r e eu e r er m nt B igad , Li t nant Cha t s
commanding I made the acquaintance of
u e e or er he e J dg Ritchi , in d that might h lp “ ” m e in my Old Mortality researches ; but I ’ L A CAD IE . 2 3 7
not u e f ou no e o was s cc ss ul, as I f nd anci nt t mb s e ne e e of an ti uit l s ton s . O pi c q y aw was a we er e o er the o of the o ath van , v p ints c mpass , on o e on the e ere e a p l , and van w stamp d ,
“ G . R . S outh of Annapolis there is an interesting region for the hunter and explorer which I hoped to visit on some other occasion ; it is
r e on the r e of o o ma k d la g map N va Sc tia,
“ ’9 r cou r ou oo e unexplo ed nt y . It ab nds in m s
eer e e s ow r s e o o d , and xt nd t a d Lak R sign l, a
fine ece of er r e o o pi wat thi ty mil s l ng , and als
o the source of the or a e ab ut s J d n, Clyd , and
us e ers ere no o the s re T k t Riv , wh d ubt t ams fi abound with sh .
My next move was across the Bay of Fundy
’ o to re er c o the to . s e ce St J hn , th n F d i t n and
ll saw eu e o Grand Fa s . I again Li t nant Simm ns
oo s who ere o e e r or and W d , w c nn cting th i w k w e so to e on e e er of ith min , as mak g n al map the e of the ro o e r r dis lin p p s d milita y oad . A tressing occu rrence took place at the Grand
lls . eu e oo s who was e e Fa Li t nant W d , ngag d 2 3 8 ’ L ACAD IE .
taking levels on the high ground on the west
’ of t s one e he . o r re bank St J hn , day hi d a F nch
Acadian to paddle him across the river above
the ll e ot s e ro s bu t e the Fa s ; th y g af ly ac s , wh n
oe re ur o e he r e to cut can man was t ning al n , t i d
a ro too oo e ore o u the of c ss s n, b f g ing p bank the river beyond the influ ence of the cata
e was s r raet . H een to st ain every nerve to
ee re he re e the s e k p up st am , and main d in am
ot for o e e s the or e sp s m tim , battling again t f c
’ of the rre the oor fellciw s re cu nt , at last p st ngth
le ou n for e fai d him, and sh ti g in vain h lp , which cou n ot oss be re ere he ld by any p ibility nd d,
he a e er a was hurried over t F lls . S v al d ys afterwards his body was fou nd some distance
ow bel . Lieu tenant Woods had a narrow escape from
was c o er the r e e o e . w lv s It O t b , and fi st l av s
e he the o e se e ro e . had fall n, w n w lv s as mbl in d v s
Lieutenant Woods had seen his m en engaged
u the e e ee u r he in c tting lin , wh n, f ling h ng y,
e t o r ou e off w n back t wa ds his camp ab t a mil ,
e to eat H e o e for to get som thing . st pp d a
’ 2 40 L D ACA IE .
ur r ter . D ing this long pe iod of frost snow we m ight well exclaim
our ear s were wear wai Oh h t y ting , Waiting for the M ay
a for th e easa ra es W iting pl nt mbl ,
ere the ra ra aw or ra b es Wh f g nt h th n b m l ,
the woo e al er a With dbin t n ting ,
c the e a S ent d wy w y .
ou r ear s were wear wa Oh h t y iting ,
a for h M a W iting t e y . ’
. 24 1 L ACAD IE .
CHAPTER IX . — Visit the C ommander of the Forces at S orel St . Denis
he sce es of affa rs w th e re e s an d . ar es t St Ch l , n i ith b l — — — Chambly Lord Metcalfe D eath of Sir Richard — Jackson Surveying incidents abou t the Riviere du — — Loup The mill er Silvain An old soldier of Napo — — — leo n Visit the S aguenay River Chi cou tami Oh — tain leave to visit England Travel through the — — eastern townships Their beau ty an d fertility M em — — phram agog Vermont N ew England peculiarities — — Boston The fashions S ail in the Royal mail steam ’— — ship Cambria The passengers A Yankee speech — — A black squall The railway mania in England ’ — Return to America in the ritann ia A S cotch — — doctor Accident at Halifax Author travels through — — a e the . to os o our e to r a M in , B t n J n y Mont e l Aneo
’ o e of a s er ff s ofli cer— e o he d t h i R j in t regiment .
IN the u n of 1 8 44 e o o e a tum , I visit d C l n l
V OL . II . M ’ 242 L ACAD IE .
W etherall the om er of the or e , C mand F c s
at ore for -five e e o o re S l, ty mil s b l w M nt al,
co u e e of the and at the nfl nc St . Lawrence
er ere one e ro and Richelieu Riv s . H mil f m
the il e o r ou e o er v lag , in a c unt y h s G v n
’ 3 e t o t e oo r e e m n C t ag , with a g d ga d n and fi lds
ou r e oo ro the ab t it, da k pin w ds in f nt , and
ee e e the re r e the er e d p Rich li u in a , liv d v y sti
e e e e e e of er Sir mabl g ntl man and xc ll nt fic ,
. B . r o e o K C. Richa d D wn s Jacks n, His Ex
cellenc er e h1s W er in o tre y, aft sp nding int s M n al greatly enj oyed the qu iet and retirement of
S orel ; Captain Bro oke Taylor was his Military
e re r o eu e S c ta y, and Captain Talb t and Li t nant
Warren were his Aides-de-camp at this
time . W e retu rned towards M ontreal by the banks
of the c e eu r c o e Ri h li , with its i h s il and n at
r - ouse of the habi tans saw fa m h s , and I at
e s the o e u e h . re t e St D ni st n b ilding wh , in
e e o of 1 8 3 the roo u e r b lli n 7 , t ps had s stain d a
c e e u e e ere at the t e h ck, xha st d as th y w im
o foo and dre f et unavoid with ut d, by a ad ul, y
’
L ACAD IE . 243
a e t r t rou ice in bl , nigh ma ch h gh mud and
r e s w w ere er At St. a Novemb . Cha l s I h C olonel Wetherall had severely smitten the re e s t u b l , by attacking wi h his g ns and light
r the ou e o e e o u e infant y, h s s and st ckad s th y cc pi d
o the road res on the r er il acr ss , and ting iv , wh st
’ o he e d etour with his main b dy mad a , and
’ c r e On the re e s eft e e im ha g d b l l flank , wh n th y
fle w s mediately scattered and d . This a followed
the ff r St. u e ere the Com by a ai at E stach , wh
er of the or e Sir o o or e was mand F c s , J hn C lb n ,
w the res e c . r es p nt , and hi h, with fight at St Cha l , tended effectually to crush the rebellion in Lower
C anada .
old re o e or At Chambly, with its F nch st n f t,
r e u u e or s its apids, its b a tif l lak basin , and di tant f o of Beloeil ur ou e er n m untain , s m nt d by a glitt i g
ro we saw er rt e e the c ss, that v y sma R gim nt ,
l st r u er the 7 Highland Light Infant y . nd com
of o o e e e e re ur e to mand C l n l D nni , and th n t n d
h ad rev ou s a s cen e s ou a saw a I p i ly d d thi m nt in ,
eau ifu a e a cra er u the asce an d had b t l l k , in t , high p nt, a most extensive V iew from th e su mmit . M 2 244 ’ L ACAD IE .
o re e rr o e M nt al, which was at this tim ga is n d by the 5 2 h e 3 r t 9 d er . nd L . I . and Highland s Here during the winter there was training on s o - oe on ou the ou er n w sh s, and ab t m ntain, aft of ce ou r o er r e fi h s, als dinn pa ti s, balls and
a e x i ant a o r e tr t bl au v v s t _ th a icals , C mmissa y
e er Filders e er e o G n al , and nt tainm nts at M nk
’ a ere e ru e e e o er or l nd s , wh dw lt that t ly xc ll nt G v n
e era or e e u er G n l , L d M tcalf , a man niv sally res e te for e r e e e p c d his judgm nt, fi mn ss and b n volence who e e re er the o f f , b sid s nd ing m st aith ul an d valuable services to his sovereign and country even to the last stage of a lingering
o fu e e er the ce and m st pain l dis as , canc in fa , spent the whole of his private and official
o e of r the exer se of inc m in acts cha ity , and in ci h ospitality .
To the great regret of the troops he com m an ded of c e r e Sir , and many atta h d f i nds, Richard Jackson died su ddenly in the summer
of 1 8 4 5 o re e u r e at his , at M nt al, and li s b i d
o r e ore in the r of he fav u it S l, chu ch which laid
e the foundation ston .
24 6 ’ L ACAD IE .
seemed unacquainted with its use . They were
oor but o te e e e r e p , c n nt d, and th y cultivat d ba l y ,
o r e ea the e t ro ats , y , and p s ; wh a c ps had formerly failed from a worm at the roots of the
grain . I went into the forests of the Green River
to oo for r e e fou the re l k b idg sit s, and nd st am rushing over a rocky channel with falls of a
ew fee ere ere er o er f t h and th . Aft stalking v
the f re e e r wind alls , d nch d with h avy ain , till
e e the u e e oo our b night d, g id and mys lf t k up Th quarters for a night at a grist mill . e
er rown oo of mill Silvain , had th a g d dam
o e oo ro s the ree er st n and w d ac s G n Riv , and with his s ons had cleared four or five acres in
h e ere u r ou t e depth of the forest . Th y w ind st i s
but oor as et no cow t e r f e p , had y , and h i ar ,
w t e os re con hich h y h pitably sha d with us , sisted of barley cakes and cofi ee of roasted
r e ot e of o e f o the ba l y . I g a chang cl th s r m
er he er ro o t mill , and as was rath tund and sh r ,
e r e u d ro er w h my app a anc in his S n ay t ws s, hic
ere er the t e e w v y baggy at wais , and r ach d ’
L ACAD IE . 24 7
a t e e o the ee ffor e ood e li tl b l w kn , a d d a g d al of u e e to am s m nt his family, whilst his
’ u er o s she s e on da ght s st cking , which insi t d
u off to e m e o or e p lling mak c mf tabl , hung playfully fro m my feet as I could get them
The o o er only partially on . acc mm dating mill
s e m e to o own bed wi h d ccupy his , but I
ec e s e o or left d lin d this, and l pt c mf tably in a
on so e e e the er and in m sacks, b sid machin y
of the m our the or w e ill , till f in m ning, h n the os u oe e e rou e o e the m q it s b cam t bl s m , and ” es e no see him i n sand fli , bit him , , t e r ot e e e roduced th i h n edl s into my fl sh .
In my intercourse with these simple-minded
eo e the re e s p pl , F nch Canadians , I hav alway found that when spoken to kindly and with
oo our e are er o g d hum , th y v y civil and bliging
to s r er : e are not r bu t t ang s th y g asping ,
! o al c eer u o e e es u e s ci and h f l am ng th ms lv , q it contented with any remuneration which is
ten ere of e to e e al d d, and t n wish d clin it
o e ou t g ther . I returned to the Riviére du L p 248 ’ L ACAD IE.
and e er e e i f o M r. on xp i nc d civ lity r m Davids , superintendant of saw mills there I also vis ited
l er o eo o d o of . ou an s ldi Nap l n , Captain St L is , t u r w e r e e o hin and p ight ith whit hai , his xpr ssi n
e of : calm and u nexcited . H managed the farm l M r . u o er for a Taché, and was c tivating fl w s
u e e o e r /a his am s m nt, and am ng which, w a ing
ue e row er he o e as cap and bl v st and t s s , m v d if
re ve they we his only comrades left . H e li d
o e e o e w or e e al n in a cl an c ttag , hich was nam nt d with a statuette and portraits of his great m er ast . Having asked and obtained leave to visit the re r e er ue L r or o lo ma kabl Riv Sag nay in ab ad , f l w in o the re e ro the or g int St . Law nc f m n th, I
e ere e o w M r . w nt th by st am , in c mpany ith
’ o or e fe r e e re r Higgins n, L d M tcal s p ivat s c ta y, and n ow m ost deserv edly administering the
Government of Antigua : also with M r . W .
r e the e er r s e e t er P ic nt p i ing and int llig n m chant, in whose b an ds was the extensive timber trade
on the f e e . ue M r . ur t o Sag nay, B s all Qu b c
’
250 L ACAD IE .
s Set for the r of t e or for ails , waiting tu n id ,
ro e r wind to p c ed upwa ds . The highest cliffs we saw are named
’ l Eternité r e we re he and T inité, and th n ac d
r n or e des e ro G a d Bay Bai Has , sixty mil s f m
Tadou sac where there . are now two thousand
e settlers engag d in lumbering . On landing
a o e we fo t re m ng th m und tha child n , chips and
pigs abou nded in all directions ; b ehind this fine
a e e e re r f e W e b y th r ar g at t acts o f rtile country .
proceeded on to Chicoutami having previou sly ru n agrou nd at Chicoutam i we saw some
remains of the Jesuits : a small chapel also stood
t ere u r of one re e rs h , which was pwa ds hund d y a l o d .
There were Indians scattered ab out in their
od e who o e we l g s , had c m in with skins
u ce so e of e to e for to o ind d m th m danc bacc , and
e t flour- rre e e the t an mp y ba l b ing plac d in mids ,
a chief seated him self at on e side with a rude
sor of t m o r e and he e to 0 t a b u in , b gan sing da
’ he 0 ' n ecke a we e ree out e o s y , y y, wh n th st f ll w
e o e and m occassins as in blank t c ats, l ggings , and ’
L A CAD IE . 2 5 1
m n o o e e r r a y b ys, j in d him, and with th i a ms
ou t i e the e er e e on hanging l k l tt T, th y stamp d their heels and j erked themselves round the
rre e were re two or ree u s ba l till th y ti d , th sq aw ,
e r oo e n e r s o with th i pap s s hangi g at th i back , als j oined their shrill voices .
e o Chicou tam i the e n ot B y nd , Sagu nay is
e e ro e su e o of navigabl , b ing b k n by a cc ssi n rapids after it issues from the great Lake i o . he e one u re es n St . J hn T lak is h nd d mil c r u ere e r e u e ored r ers f i c mf nc , and la g n xpl iv all
e e o into it from variou s qu arters . Th r is c n sidered to be between three and four hundred thou sand acres of good land abou t the Lake i . o e ere e s e r ts St J hn , and in sh lt d vall y n a ” re M rew r s ores . e r . u of h H , said And St a t
“ u e e ou r er be e Q b c, sh ld ha dy Highland s sta bli shed or o r e to or r , and w ks c nst uct d f m a ally
o e of re se of ing p int and plac st ngth , in ca re erse o r r v s in the pa ts of Canada .
re ur e to o re e the I t n d M nt al , and p nding order from England for commencing the great
r ro o ed ro rt milita y ad , I btain , f m Earl Cathca ’
2 52 L ACAD IE .
’ the new co n er of H er e or e mma d Maj sty s F c s ,
’ three months leave of absence to go to England on private affairs ; steam enabling on e to go and co e e to e six wee m within that tim , and sp nd ks
’ (little enough time after five years absence) with
’ ’ o e r e bu t r e ers u be n s f i nds t av ll m st content.
I had not yet seen a large and most valu able
or o of the r e of the o er p ti n Canada, ga d n L w
ro ce viz the er o s u e P vin , , East n t wn hips , sit at d
f he ou o t . re e e e ro s th St Law nc , and xt nding f m the Richelieu to the Chau diere opposite Quebec ;
r u r of the er the e e a t ib ta y latt , Famin , wash s
o o u of c e ee . d wn g ld , a q antity whi h I hav s n
wa e to o o to e r On my y, th n , B st n mba k, I proceeded through a considerable p ortion of the to s s an d e e wn hip , was highly pl as d with what I w sa .
The ur a e of the o r u ul s f c c unt y is nd ating ,
ou s oo e of w e ab nd in g d land, capabl raising h at ,
’ ow the o s or if s n in fall, at , Indian c n and
ota oes e u oo e o a p t ; it is b autif lly w d d, c nt ins n o e ou re u e l o bl m ntains and pictu sq hi ls, als
f e & ene a u e o ro or c. b ndanc i n , , and is gladd d
’
2 54 L ACAD IE .
a e of m t on the s e o s v il is hung hill , and b l w thi t r e l e o he e were many b autifu landscap s . L oking
u o the e of er oo f o the back p n villag Wat l , r m
rou e of we saw er e high g nd ast it , a p f ct picture .
Rocks and u mbrella- shaped elms in the fore
rou d u hur u er e flutterin ou g n , s lp b tt fli s g ab t ;
e re o the a e its e r cattl p sing ; vill g , with n at chu ch
e - oo o se on the r of and cl an l king h u s , ma gin a lake with wooded shores : above this lay the lofty ridge called Shefford Mountain touched
fleee o . ur er on r or ou n with y cl uds F th , O f d M ntai r c oo e oo o ro s the ew i hly w d d, st d b ldly ac s vi , whilst masses of forest were in the middle
rou e r us r e f r - ouse g nd, and n a was a la g a m h
e c e r of u oo e e owe fi lds l a st mps and g d f nc s , sh d careful hu sbandry whilst heavy crops waved in the breeze .
W e o e o o to ea w st pp d ccasi nally t ild fruit . Will you stop and eat some cherries said our r er for sta el n was o u e ore d iv , g g c nd ct d in a m
r e e t ere the p imitiv and pl asan way h , than at ’ 2 55 L ACAD IE .
s to a whirlwind speed of the railway . I aid n
American fellow-passenger : This is a very fine
ou r Sir c nt y, ” “ e s he ere o e d Y a , answ d , this is n bl lan , w ou ure u e su o e hat y call pict sq , I pp s ”
Yes .
’ Well ! you ll see some more r agged views ” fur der on .
W e re e the oo e And we did so . ach d w d d
e of the re e M em hram a o ou tl t g at Lak p g g , foaming and tu mbling in its course towards the
r c s er ffor o St . F an i Riv , and a ding m st capital fishing then the Lake itself was spread out
e ore u s r e o w e e b f , thi ty mil s l ng, ith isl ts lik
e se s on o o roves of rees on the v s l its b s m , g t
’ e er ores on the we the w e d ast n sh , and st O l s H a ,
o er r e ou e o e and th va i d m ntain h ights, cl th d with
ore w ere the oose eer o er f sts , and h m d and th
game animals ab ound ; altogether a splendid
r pictu e.
I drank of the bright water of the Outlet or
o er ere Sir e o e the Mag g Riv , wh Jam s H p , General commanding the Troops in Canada ’
25 6 L ACAD IE .
e e ee e r ro e oe East , had r c ntly b n n a ly d wn d ; a can man with awkward poling having upset him
t ere he was rr e do whils fishing h , and ca i d wn h the rapids holding on by t e canoe . Leaving
eor e e on our r ll e ere oo G g vill ight , a vi ag wh g d accommodation may be fou nd for those who can appreciate some of the most beau tiful s e er or e i e o so e c n y in N th Am r ca , and nj y m
or we oo u our u r ers for the sp ting, t k p q a t night
of e in the handsome village Stanst ad . Next day we had an interesting drive across
er o the r e e ree V m nt, g anit stat , with its g n
ou s fine o e er r m ntain , land, and n bl wat p ivi ”
e e e e N ew re. Our l g s , and th n cam Hampshi fellow-passengers were two fi ne you ng wom en of o e or — e L w ll Fact y Miss Sias and Miss H ath , ” e sun - o e who e e r e in shingl b nn ts , said th y a n d
our o r a- ee old of e f d lla s w k, and an man ighty, who sang a dialogu e between a woman of New
England and her husband he wanted to emi “ r e to e t for ere t e ere the g at K n ucky, wh h y w , winter consumes what summer doth yield bu t when she said that wife and children
’
L ACAD IE .
e ! let dr e or lie bed W ll him y hims lf, in all day till he is dry It seemed strange that though the thermo
° e er at e 8 0 the e e e m t was this tim in shad , v ry
o s e on e er- e ! o t t so b dy l pt f ath b ds Als , ha
e er eo e the New er n ot cl v a p pl as England s , had yet fou nd ou t that eating hot bread and cu cu m
- ers r e er e e ill . b , and d inking ic d wat , mad th m
saw ere ill an d o e from Many I w , I am c nvinc d
e e e o th s caus s al ne . At the cheerful and thriving town of Con
or we ot on the rail ere rr e o c d g , and w ca i d int ” o o one of the r r o B st n in ca avan ca s , h lding
eo e ere o mu t r fifty p pl . Th was s ch s i in this
ree e c t tr e e o the ag abl ity, hat I i d in succ ssi n
re o ou e the er i o Al T m nt H s , Am ican , Pav lli n,
’ o U e e ote e ore ou bi n , and nit d Stat s H ls , b f I c ld
“ ” et o e e the o er ou e g l cat d , wh n at Han v H s ” t e e e e ou me h y gu ss d th y c ld fix . I paid one hun dred and twenty dollars for a
’ e t the o e er r b r h in R yal Mail St am , Camb ia, t e e re to ur e four re w lv hund d ns b d n, hund d and fort orse o er Comman y h p w , Captain Judkins, ’
L ACAD IE . 2 59
der n ou the e rds ; and in walki g ab t city aft rwa ,
he I was struck with the prevailing fashions . T
e e e o r w er rou g ntl m n had l ng hai , hisk s all nd
u er the ur e ow o r n and nd chin, t n d d n c lla s , India ” ru er r er t l the r s bb pants , ( ath ick ish if st ap
Th es e er ro r . e giv way) , and v y b ad ski ts ladi ,
e r e o e s ure r o s in th i littl b nn t and miniat pa as l , n ot to be ou o e re e or ou r td n , had ally n m s ski ts , hoops could n ot have b een m uch more exten
e w e the . o e er e e were the eo siv H v , th s p pl in
e re e of the o : e s b e o xt m fashi n s n i l f lks, and
o o o u e re e ore u e . B st n ab nds in th m, d ss d m q i tly I do not intend to detain the reader who has accompanied m e so far in my Transatlantic nar
rative w u e ou of the o e to , ith min t acc nts v yag s “ ” ro th r s r e and f m e Old C ou nt y . I hall b i fly relate any matters which may possibly interest
01‘ u e am s .
We had ninety- five passengers in the Cam bria among others were the Bishops of Ore
on u e M r er the e g and Massach s tts, . Widd , Chi f
o oner of the n o C mmissi Canada La d C mpany,
and f M r . u e of New or his amily, R ggl s Y k and 2 60 ’ L ACAD IE .
hi f o s D r . o o o a family, R bbins B st n , C ptain
r he u or of W u R A . t t e r o . r ex a b t n , , a th tha v y ” cellent or on the N ew or o e w k W ld , H ch laga ,
e er 2 3rd o Captains Ch st , , and R . W . F . G ugh ,
5 n w 3 r eu e s o e 2 d . e 3 d . ; Li t nant B wi , , L I Max ll , and ew r 9 3 rd er e St a t, Highland s ; Ensign S lby,
24th e e . de u & e e e c. r R gim nt , M Blaq i r , I sha d a cabin with an intelligent gentleman of Phila
e r o The u of D . o d lphia , . Sc tt H tchins n family
N ew England singers were on board also M r .
re er ou of o our who F d ick D glas , a man c l , has sin ce created a considerable sensation by his
e ture on er and e er e ro l c s Slav y ; G n al W lsh , p & rietor of e er es re or of r e c. p m nag i , di ct ci cus s,
W e had a most pleasant passage : there was
fine e er our o e er e w t w ath , v yag was div sifi d i h the t of e er of e t sigh s v al ships , and magnific n
e er — o e e u e e re on ic b gs, s m lik h g sphing s sting the ue sea o er re em e or o s bl , and th s s bling n m u
e r e fr o er e we cath d als , with b l y t w s attach d had agreeable conversation and singing every even
f er n er . te o e ing A r supp night, an Am ican passenger made this characteristic speech
2 62 ’ L ACAD IE .
e ur ere re o e and th y nat ally w g atly ann y d, a ser ou s ur e o e e was i s di t banc c mm nc d, which with
f e di ficulty qu ell d . The planters had stood emancipation songs such as this
ere is a cou r far awa Th nt y y , ! ’ r e o er sa s tis an a a F i nd H pp y C d y,
’ we reac c or a s s ore And if h Vi t i h ,
H u re a s o or e tells s we a sl ve n m e .
e as e all o s e let u s o Th n h t b nd m n g ,
eave s c r s a cou r oh And l thi h i ti n nt y ,
as e to the a of the r s uee H t l nd B iti h Q n ,
’ Where whip s for negroes ne er are seen .
Bu t e the re r e hi wh n laws ga ding slav s , (w ch by the way were similar to those formerly in
or e our own es ere f c in W t Indian islands) , w
s e r ee ru e on ca t in th i t th by a naway slav , and
o r e e too ere e not for b a d a v ss l , wh th y did pay or expect to receive such treatment ; they
ere re e c e or u e o e er w g atly x it d ; f t nat ly , h w v ,
ere n o oo e o oo e er th was bl dsh d, th ugh it l k d v y like it at on e time.
A great frien d of the slaves . ’ 3 L ACAD IE . 2 6
the u n of 1 8 4 5 the In England , in a tum , railway fever was at its height from the noble
to his e e tr e e o e man val t, ladi s , ad sm n , d m stic ser e ou e ul e vants , all class s, b ght and sp c at d in
it ou u s res . ha Railways, was th ght, m st at
er e of o a o o nce supersede all oth lin s c mmunic ti n .
Turnpike-roads and canals were considered to
be old wor o o the re e r e ld n ti ns , and that p s nt ac of horses would only be required to assist the t ar er . ro e o e u e f m I was st ngly advis d sp c lat ,
ut e e o e r - m en b r solu tely declin d . S m a my did “ ” b u re ur e r er fled y sha s, b nt th i fing s , and
h r t e ou . o c nt y, as did many civilians Am ng
o er ere ofli cer who o ou t th victims, th was an s ld
of the e e e e o e al s rvic , inv st d his wh l capit ,
£4000 re o e er ut , in sha s , l st v ything, and p an
en r e u d to his existence. Milita y m n sho ld have as little business with speculations of this sort
as with politics .
The furor for railways extended to British
' or er and had i ts ect on our N th Am ica , qfi
militar r oad ou e re u r e to y , as I f nd wh n I t n d
f i did the or o of Hali ax, wh ch I in st my m nth ’
2 64 L ACAD IE .
’ - r he . e o e e t . N v mb , in R M st am ship Britannia ,
W e n e t . to be Captai H wi t had , as was e e e rou o e but we ree e xp ct d, a gh v yag , had ag abl com anv Sir M acNab r of p ; Allan , with pa t his f on o r or s om amily, was b a d Maj Davi (by wh four magnificent views of the Falls of Niagara
e ee re e u e hav b n c ntly p blish d) , and Captain
5 2n M r e o lle e o d . I. D nis n , L ; . Ed n C lvi , h P . t e oet r o o e er M . P . ; p B yant ; C l n l Dang
f New or M r e of e M r . er o . fi ld, T xas ; Bak , Y k ;
e u n . of o o o o Fal s , j , B st n ; Captain R bins n,
& e u o N . re . . c R , Th was m ch sm king and much singing in the evening in a part of the ” e o ere ere ship call d S cial Hall , and as th w n o e re on er the es ee l ctu s slav y , b t f ling seemed to prevail between the American and
r e er ure ere ou . Be B itish pass ng s , as s ly th ght sides having a common origin and common
ere o o e ot e ou e o int sts, b th nati ns hav g n gh lb w room to avoid the necessity of j ostling one
ot er an h .
The American peculiarity of gu essing and
n u e o has ee so o e o u aski g q sti ns b n ft n sh wn p,
2 66 ’ L ACAD IE .
u o e the r i s x P . p al ngsid wha f at M . ; some of
the e e e of e on o r g ntl m n Halifax cam b a d, and w “ e saw immediately that the steam was up
ou r w s o n ow o ab t ail ay , and that n thing w uld
serve bu t a grand trunk line from Halifax to
ue ec six u re e o rou ore Q b , h nd d mil s l ng, th gh f sts,
e r to o our or five swamps, and cl a ings, c st f
o of o e to o u sa ten e r milli ns m n y, and cc py y y a s
o ru o ere s the in its c nst cti n . Wh a Military Ro ad
might have been completed in two years at a cost of and travelled on at the en d of
1 8 4 e five ! u re t e 7 , its l ngth h nd d and fif y mil s , the North American provinces made mu ch
ore defencible e roo the m by its m ans , (t ps and muniti ons of war might have been rapidly
r s or e o on e er e the t an p t d al ng it m g ncy) , and country along its course immedi ately op ened up
o e But the r f r s ttlem ent. ail was in the
e asc ndant . I do n ot mean to condemn the proposed
w ro f f r r to u e e a fro . ail ay f m Hali ax Q b c, m it
e r u e o to the e I h a tily wish it all s cc ss, als chi f
bu t the o er M r. . . ou m v in it, G R Y ng ; as ’
L ACAD IE . 2 67 m ost practicable line for it is along the east
oas of New ru sw re or e a or c t B n ick, as p t d by M j
o o e erso R . E . e R bins n and Captain H nd n , , l aving
the e re of the ro ce s ll er es c nt p vin ti a wild n s , I
ou su es let the r w o on e w ld gg t, ail ay g st adily
ro e e e to se e e o the o f m s ttl m nt ttl m nt al ng c ast,
wr so re c the . e ce bu t the and a h St La n , in
e e let the r ro be e m antim milita y ad mad , and its
e se e rou the e r of the ro e lin ttl d th gh h a t p vinc , as
speedily as p ossible .
Sir Allan M acNab and myself were asked to attend a railway meeting the evening of ou r
x Sir we ff arrival at Halifa . Allan nt o with
4 . I o o e u r on 3 rd . one of the C l n l F l g, L , and
officials of the city asked m e to wait five
minutes and he would come back and take m e
t th ee w e our o e m ting . I ait d an h and a half
for he ou t es e er e him , and th gh l sly n v cam
back .
Thinking that my n on - appearance at the
ee occ s o so e remr m ting might a i n m a k, and as
we were n ot to s a ill e ail gain t midnight , I w nt
on ore e P . M . to tr ere sh at ight , y and find wh N 2 2 68 ’ L ACAD IE .
e The the meeting was to take plac . night was
r o r ere ere e er da k, c ld, and ainy, and th w n ith
r e r s on the rf lights n o sid ail wha . I was
re e e re o d ss d in a h avy Canadian g y c at, thick
row er oo s or e o t s s and b t , with a sh t W llingt n
o or u e o on arm . not cl ak , f t nat ly nly my I did
o the o e e kn w l cality, and wh n I had advanc d
ou r r s fro the ab t thi ty ya d m ship, and thinking
was e on the e ou ere r I w ll land , I nc nt d a d ay
which s ome porters were loading ; as I passed
r the r the r u o e ro . it, d ayman was t ning h s und
e e to the e t to o e I st pp d l f av id it, and imm
diately fell twenty feet into twenty-five feet
e ow an re t e of water . I w nt d n in appa n flam
fire the os oru of the er , ph ph s salt wat ; as I
came to the surface I thought I must be in a
ro e e to re the ditch , and I d pp d my l gs ach
so to w on ore e o n bottom and alk sh , I w nt d w
again and swallowed a good deal of salt water ;
the ee r ur I then knew I was in d p ha b o .
I immediately said to myself Keep your ” o r e u our , e ter h ad p , y hands d wn and t ad wa ,
so o e o e the u f e I did , and fl ating w ll ab v s r ac I
2 0 ’ 7 L ACAD IE . in the last five years p erhaps they had struck
he e o o r their heads on t pil s in g ing ve .
After requesting search to be made for my
o e to the e er to hat and cl ak, I w nt back st am
e was of ou r e change my cloth s . I c s blu e and
o o e who s e m e c ld, and th s assi t d said I must go to bed and drink hot brandy-and-water but as w s e to e the ee I i h d still att nd m ting, I
e off r er w nt with M . Chamb lain (my former
e o r e er rom sor who f ll w t av ll f Wind ) , had kindly
o e to s H ee m e . e oo m e to his ou e c m t k h s , his wife made m e a b owl of mint tea which re e m e an d e e to the o our viv d , th n I w nt H n
’ e Un iack s o use to s r ro abl J . B . h di cuss ail ad
’ m er u u e a e ia s fo e M r. Un ck att s . I nd q i tly s t d at the gentleman throu gh whose u nmindfulness of
here his app ointment I had j ust su ffered . T was
o e e on e of o u o emi a l ng d bat lin s c mm nicati n,
r e e e e of new ou r g ati n , and s ttl m nt a c nt y , and
at e u e to e e or to the tw nty min t s tw lv , acc ding
e e t to re ur to the e er . Halifax tim , I l f t n st am I was on the wharf in ten minutes having ’ L ACAD IE . 2 7 1
ru n o the e e o ! the alm st all way, wh n b h ld
‘ ’ r s e o the r our B itannia was t aming d wn ha b ,
o e to o o e t I had l st my passag B st n , and was l f on the h r w s oo e w a f with hat I t d in, my baggag
r ur e out the b eing all on boa d . It t n d that
’ ships time was half an hour faster than the
e e e se o or u e in Halifax tim , h nc this c nd misf t n
Bu t e one . we night I was aliv and ll, and had m o e o et : ere ore ere y m n y in my p ck th f , th was
“ n o occasion to say die .
eu e o e e r e Li t nant and Adjutant P ll n , Rifl B igad , who ee ee r e off e had b n s ing a f i nd , kindly invit d m e to u r er o e fed his q a t s, and I was l dg d, , and
oor ou m an he h e clothed by him . P y ng as sinc gone to his accou nt ! next morning with some
orro e c o es e off the o to b w d l th , I w nt by c ach
or e to e to o Winds , int nding st am St . J hns, and
e e r e rou e & to c. th nc t av l by land th gh Main , t o o o re o er e . B st n , c v my baggag
M r . r the oe es e o B yant, p t, had an cap als , the night I went over the wharf : he followed m e on ore ou e u e on sh , and f nd hims lf s dd nly the e e of the r e he or u e saw dg wha f, wh n f t nat ly ’
2 72 L ACAD IE .
er re c e his dang , and d w ba k in tim . On my afterwards sending a sm all present to the m en who e e m e ou t of the er re re h lp d wat , and p
e to the ro r e or of the r the s nting p p i t wha f, danger to strangers from the want of lights and
r l o ere su e . ai s, b th w ppli d
o th ro . s e e o e F m St J hn , I w nt in a stag al ng
ou t o of New ru w ro o s h c ast B ns ick, th ugh a c un
tr e e ou in ro y ind nt d with bays , and ab nding cks
- fir ree . e for Sl n and t s A way sid inn had a g , a red cow and a house b eneath was thi s invi tatien
Let wear rave ers ur ere y t ll t n in h ,
’ Th e red cow s milk their spirits will cheer
to wit r or u e th e march of tem , b andy . F t nat ly ” peran ce is destroying the red cow in all
rec o ere e e ere . re e di ti ns, h and ls wh I ach d
re er o e o err St . And ws, and aft s m c ld night f y
a e sta ein e ffere for g and g g , b ing indi ntly clad
er I rr e e e wint , a iv d n xt day at Machias in Main ;
ere the e e e e the h at v ning m al, I was ask d by
or ou t e e e or landl d, Will y ak st w d clams ,
’
2 74 L ACAD IE .
re ar e to old ee ere is no I m k d an Yank , Th commanding officer here . ” no he we are all Oh , said , Kings
’ The o ere n eo e ! e here . S v ig p pl At l ngth after many vain efforts to move the great car ria e u ou the o to tr g , and j mping ab t in c ld y and
ee o r e e r o o o e e o k p u s lv s wa m , a l c m tiv cam al ng like Polyphemu s with a large eye in front ; we
e s e e ere r e ou t of hail d it , a k d h lp , and w d agg d t m u he d .
o o re o ere e fter At B st n I c v d my baggag , and a examining there the newest and best kinds of
r Su e for er viz . o e on ails itabl Am ica, th s laid
r e do n o t r e fro I left for g av l, which is with st,
r h e o re . o saw for t e t M nt al At T y I las tim ,
on to os or and his way England, that m t w thy
e ufferer or e fe : he man and pati nt s , L d M tcal
re e at o s i had main d his p st, till phy ical ncapa
o r e to to be re e e city c nst ain d him ask li v d . Shortly after he arrived in England with e re re o to the e l nl nti signati n divin wi l, and ma y
or tu e he e e o e r to his f ti d , yi ld d up his n bl spi it
Maker . ’ L ACAD IE . 2 75
ro ro tr e e ere F m T y I av ll d by canal, and th were the u su al horrors of the three tiers of
e e for the e er to ee on sh lv s at night pass ng s sl p ,
e ro e the ice to in a stifling atmosphere . W b k
et to e ere we were storm staid g Whit hall, wh ,
e o the om of e o and f ll int c pany chain d c nvicts ,
on e r to e e r r e of th i way a P nit ntia y, and in cha g
’ er ff of e e e u o r e are o sh i s fic rs . Th s f ncti na i s s me times rather sau cy to the higher powers here thu s one of them having captured a felon with
a re e of rou e d f ul oo him g at d al t bl and i fic ty , t k
e ore u e e ure of o e b f a j dg , and mad s his c nvi
on . To o e o e er he let ti his ann yanc , h w v , was
off ereu o the e - er e for the , wh p n thi f catch wait d
u e he e out of our o u j dg , as cam c t, and g ing p
to to e ou t t him, said, I want t ll y wha I hink ” of you .
What is it said His Honour . Well ! I think you are so almighty mean
’ ” that the hogs would nt eat you ! At ” length we progressed again over the “ ow ” , the Red r e of e sn by Bi d Lin Sl ighs,
s th pas ed e south end of the beau tiful Lake ’
2 7 6 L ACAD IE .
eor e ere eo e en the on e oo G g , wh p pl sp d h ym n,
oo o o er e e of The Bl dy P nd, and th sc n s Last ” of the o ere u e the ic M hicans , and w ps t in p
n cou r e we turesqu e S croo nt y . Wh n had left
Plattsburgh the snow- drifts were sometimes up
’ to the or e ose the r er ere h s s n s, and d iv s w obliged to get off and tramp down the snow h e ore e . er s t e ro er the b f th m Aft pas ing f nti ,
so u o re t fro the wind was c tting, c ming di c m
’ fro e ore of u o too z n sh s H ds n s Bay, that it k
’ ’ o e re o e e e- ere away n s b ath , and n s y lids , w w i stuck together ith ce .
W e u ot e er a r r e e thankf lly g sh lt at L p ai i , pass d
re e t Co h o the . L o n awa a ere al ng St aw nc g g , wh the Indians put m e across the river among
o ice ree ee s er e fl ating , and th w k aft my accid nt ,
o owe u u u rou our e f ll d by an n s ally gh j n y, I was again seated at my drawing table in the H ead
r er o eer Ofli ce o tre Qua t s R yal Engin at M n al .
The r w n ow o e er e ail ay mania had , h w v , plac d
he r ro e e was em t milita y ad in ab yanc , and I
o e on the e e ces of the ello pl y d d f n Canada, Mart
o & th er of c. t er e . ow Kingst n, , till summ A
’
2 78 L ACA D IE .
CHAPTER X .
f — The as e o . ou s u e ec The two rea res C tl St L i , Q b g t fi
- s — The St . Loui Theatre Illu minate d dioramas — — Danger of camphine Fire in the Theatre Presence — — of mind Stru ggles for escap e Dreadful loss of life — — Exertions of the Military an d Firemen Appalli n g — — s cene the morning after the fire The funeral s Sug — — gestions Qu ebec rises from its ashes Excursions — Voyage to Halifax Change of m en an d measures in — — Nova S cotia American enterprise Desire for an — n exation Unreasonable complaint of a Colonist — Gaieties an d theatricals at Halifax Retu m to Eng — land Re-embark for America Dreadful winter — voyage and j ourney An escape from being frozen
o real— o u o M nt C ncl si n .
the u er o of u e e the ee of IN pp t wn Q b c, qu n
or er e oo o fro N th Am ican citi s , and l king d wn m ’
L ACAD IE . 2 79
r e on the ro St. re e t its ocky sit b ad Law nc , whils
e e ere e t ext nsiv plains, scatt d villag s, and distan
e ree e the e e on all e mountain rang s g t d y sid s,
he re e of oo the e of St. o t e st d Castl L uis , sid nc
e the Governor General of Canada . This int r e e e was ur to the rou 1 8 3 1 sting dific b nt g nd in , subsequently the Earl of Durham caused the ru to be e e e o er e o terr e ins l v ll d, and c nv t d int a ac ,
o e w r fro the incl s d ith a ailing, and which, m charming prospect it commands up and down the r er in u er a e iv ( s mm liv with shipping) , became the favourite promenade of the inhabi tants .
of the old e u ll re ed A wing chat a sti main , also the Castle guard house at the entrance ;
’ o to the o er or e adj ining it was G v n s stabl s,
ere let to er t e ee er which w a liv y s abl k p , and
e to e the ou e re or er n xt th m St . L is Th at , f m ly
r - ou e u Sir e r a iding h s b ilt by Jam s C aig . This was the u er of 1 8 4 6 the e e of in s mm , sc n a
e r u al it e e e f a f l c amity, with which pl as d Divin
ro e e to ffl u e e re o P vid nc again a ict Q b c, p vi usly ’
L ACAD IE . so severely chastened by the great fires of May “ u e 1 8 45 so e escr e o e and J n , w ll d ib d in H ch laga . These it will be remembered laid in ashes the
re er r of the u ur e e g at pa t s b bs, and d priv d t e ou of the or two w nty th sand inhabitants,
r s o the o u o of e The thi d f p p lati n th ir houses . seas of fire raged round the walls of the upper to on e e e r u o o e the exer wn th s f a f l ccasi ns, wh n t o of the r u er e er Sir e i ns milita y, nd G n al Jam s
o e the o r er the 1 4 4 3rd H p , R yal A till y, th,
8 9 re e ere so er o ou and th gim nts w v y c nspicu s, and so eminently u seful in saving the u pper t ro re t the Th own f m falling a p y o flames . e
o er u e o e u ou e ro e s ldi s p ll d d wn and bl w p h s s, d v before them those who still u selessly clung to t e r ro er e the i e of h i p p ty, and sav d l v s many T helpless women and children . he flames quite overpowered the fir emen and the en gines .
ou e re was o e u The St . L is Th at a st n b ilding e ee for the ou t r ighty f t by ty, and walls ab t hi ty feet high ; the roof was covered with sheets
’ 2 8 2 D L ACA IE .
box oor the o o er e the and d , and wind ws v th m , officers had arranged six ou tlets from the theatre in case of alarm ; and whilst they found t th e box or or oor o o e hat, with iginal d nly p n, it took half an hour to empty the house of a ful u e e or ree u re et o l a di nc , th h nd d, y with b th
and box oor o e ree u e uf e to pit d s p n, th min t s s fic d
er on g et ev y e out. N o accident had ever occurred during any of the garris on performances ; the camphine lamps were placed u nder the charge of a man who knew well how to manage them ; there was always a fatigue party of strong artillerym en
e e e of er n o in att ndanc , and pl nty wat ; and
oor were oc e d s l k d .
the 8 of u e r s On th J n a Canadian a ti t,
the M r . . rr o re . oui M . R Ha is n, hi d St L s
e re ro the or or o of ue e for Th at f m C p ati n Q b c, the exhibition of illu minated dioramas . For t u r o e the it o r e o er and the his p p s p was b a d d v , floor sloped u pwards from the orchestra to the back part of the house ; a centre passage was ’
L ACAD IE . 2 8 3
e t e ore e ee the e fro the l f as b f b tw n s ats, and m u er r of the o e ee pp and back pa t h us , a st p
oo e t r ree fee e led to w d n s ai , th and a half t wid ,
x the bo door .
a I) o or . B x oor d a rs e a e a e 0 o . . . . s . . St g . . Pit D . D St i St bl
te or M r rr o To u . ill mina his di amas, Ha is n u nfortu nately did n ot take into his employ the person who u nderstood the management of camphine lamps ; he merely hired four of his
s to be u se two u re oil lamp , d with h nd d lamps .
The camphine which is u sed in North America
e er re re t r e e is g n ally p pa d by dis illing tu p ntin , 2 8 4 ’ L ACAD IE . and is a very dangerou s flu id to handle ; it is
er o s on w er re r v y light, fl at at , Sp ads apidly all
ou er ro on o ab t if spilt, and wat th wn it nly
re e the n er ou e the inc as s da g , with t xtinguishing
The ur e o e e flame . Ins anc C mpanies in Qu b c will not grant policies for buildings where cam
e is u se phin d .
the e e of the 1 2th of e the On v ning Jun ,
e re crow e to the oor —at e ree th at was d d d , l ast th hu ndred people were present ; the price of admission had b een reduced to a quarter of a
o The u e e wa e re e e r. s d lla a di nc v ry sp ctabl ,
e s of es who ou e e e to h ad famili , w ld hav h sitat d
e e r e o oo e r re att nd a th at ical xhibiti n , t k th i child n
o w t itness these interesting illuminated pictures .
By some persons the awful scene of the cruci fixion was very prop erly obj ected to as an e o its o r e xhibiti n , with acc mpanying da kn ss,
e o et f 850. e o e e gl ams light, y an ag d c upl , nam d
r who r e of the o r - o e ere Ta dif, had cha g c u t h us , w r e er ee e re efore ich, and had n v b n in a th at b , went to see the dioramas solely from religiou s
ot e m iv s .
’
L ACAD IE .
o e for e me a w c e p n th m , na ly, th t by hi h th y had entered the box - door ; and n ow when the thick c e o e e to roll rou the w amphin sm k b gan nd alls , the s eo e who re e on the fro ixty p pl , still main d nt rows u e ot u ou u er or , s dd nly g p, with t tt ing a w d,
e r to the s r e ee e and made th i way tai . Th y s m d
- awe s ru e r s e e e r u . t ck, th i il nc was f a f l
u u re who M . D p is , a F nch Canadian , was
re e e o e re rese e of p s nt with his wif , sh w d g at p nc
e he e er the ou e he mind . Wh n was nt ing h s ,
re r e the or o er the - oor had ma k d p ch v pit d , which door was n ot u sed to admit any one ; and
ee ru s ow r s the box - oor he t ou s ing a h t a d d , h ght to tr o er o e of e e ere he y an th m d scap . Wh had seen a porch he thought there mu st be a door he ere ore oo e who was re th f t k his wif , g atly
e to r ssa e on the e agitat d, a da k pa g l ft, and
ou the - oor bu t o e he e f nd pit d , it was l ck d ; f lt for the key it was on a nail near he applied it to the oc the oor o e e he ou l k, d p n d, and f nd himself inside the closed p orch ; bu t he soon
c e ou t e ot se e ki k d a pan l, and g him lf and his wif
o e e r r o e e ut. Li ut nant A mst ong als scap d by ’ L ACAD IE . 2 8 7
bo e e e r the s e oor . of a e am d A y, tw lv y a s g ,
e who e two e nam d Shaw, had tak n his littl
ro er to see the or s o b th s with him di ama , als
e e - o ses o e the maintain d his s lf p s si n, and wh n r us to the c r of the ouse oo e h ba k pa t h t k plac , he held the children and said : Stop ! we
’ ’ won t go there and be killed ; we ll go out ”
ot er . e so s e an h way And th y did in af ty .
Armstrong n ow ran round to the box- door with some others it was fou nd closed it was pushed open and all was darkness inside : he
‘ ’ returned to the pit- door calling out fire ! which
wa carr e n o r H e a e r cry s i d o by the s . ag in nte ed
the ea re the es were o the e er th t , flam am ng sc n y,
r ro though the stage was still clear . A mst ng then kicked down a door commu nicating with a
s e be wee the the box- oors pa sag t n pit and d , when abou t twenty people ru shed past him and
esc e H e e the ss e ro the effe ap d . f ll in pa ag f m cts
of - co ou re a our but re his a light l d v p , taining
rese ce of he n ot et u bu t p n mind, did g p again,
crawled out of the pit- door on his hands and
ee saw the c o o the kn s, and light l ud passing int 2 8 8 ’ L ACAD IE .
body of the house ; be next ran for a light to
the r -roo e r ot on e e e gua d m n a , and g wh n tak n
e the box- oor re u cre r e insid d , d adf l s ams and c i s
for help were su ddenly u ttered from a m ass of
u e s ru r er h man b ings t ggling, w ithing and int
locked on the ground and up the steep wooden
r stai . The cause of their being in this situ ation was f as follows . A number o people were clu stered round the door at the head of the stair waiting
‘ ’ to hear Yankee Doodle played ; when the
r of fire e s ro c oo ala m was giv n, Mi s B wn , a s h l
res s e s o e eo e el mist s , da h d pa t th s p pl , and f l headforemost from the top to the b ottom of the
r H er r e e ow e e to stai . f i nds w nt d n imm diat ly her s e e the cro c e a sistanc , and k pt wd ba k whil
o s ru of u r our e d ing thi , a sh b ning vap and flam cau sed these in the rear to crowd upon those people stooping down over Miss Brown ; they
u s e n s the oor w c o e e r p h d agai t d , hi h p n d inwa ds, and the whole b ecame irretrievably mixed to
gether .
’ The money-taker s table and the lamp
2 0 ’ 9 L ACAD IE .
e e Sk nner 8 9th e e o on the L sli y , r gim nt, was als
o the o er M r e . . r e sp t, and assist d th s Ha di ,
oil o our er e M r an and c l m chant , assist d by .
’ the or of the e e er ur Kimlin, Edit Qu b c M c y ,
o er e r . e M acD onald o and th s, (M ss s Sh a, , T dd,
e er e e tew r n von L pp , Back, B nn tt , S a t, Captai
’ Z uile o er of the & e u ee c. , C mmand Oc an Q n , ) r e e o rfu e e e e o M rs . e l as d, by p w l x rti ns, Wh atly
Ro M rs . and y .
M r e re e o h r. Ha di mark d am ng t e cr owd of
ufferer L eu e t o of the 1 4 s s, i t nan Hamilt n , th re e who o e to the t e re w gim nt, had g n h at ith two daughters of Assistant-C ommissary-General
Rea to the e er of the two he , ld (Julia) was about to be married in a few days ; that morning she had been arranging her wedding clothes the younger sister was lying furthest
’ out eu e i o arm e , and Li t nant Ham lt n s b ing
rd e s t me to et out ree M r . f , Ha i aid, Assis g h ou . o so s e this y ng lady Hamilt n did , and
M r . r e was pulled out with difficulty . Ha di
’ e he rr e her out o e add d, as ca i d I ll c m back
’ e For o and try to release the oth r. G d s ’ L ACAD IE . 2 9 l
e do so re e o bu t it sak , , pli d Hamilt n ; was too e lat .
M r t o e er . e rt o St wa Sc t , an Adv cat , and Cl k
of the our of e f er of r e C t App als, and ath a la g
the r h w e er family , was in c us ith a littl daught
ro er r e o er to ree his b th t i d, with th s, in vain f
’ h one of M r o r him and t e child ; . Sc tt s a ms
was tu u e out of the o et. H e ac ally p ll d s ck said , Save the child ! it is u seless to try to save
2 7 m e o t e r -re e e o . It was a m s h a t nding sc n b th
ere o e to be o e Mr. r e w blig d aband n d . Ha di
ff e M r . ere o e e su er r and Kimlin w b th s iz d by s ,
e r r e o e and ere and n a ly d agg d am ng th m , w
obliged to strike to release themselves . One in
the lower tier offered all his worldly wealth for
re lease . A little boy had previously made a singular
e e t the e re scape. H e had been s nt o th at with a
he o e maid . S was acc mpani d by a Voung man
who was attached to her ; the boy felt sleepy
efore the erfor e o er an d b p manc was v , said, One of these big lamps will fall down and
ur to The o t o o e. b n us, I wan g h m y ung
0 2 2 ’ 2 9 L ACAD IE .
oo o e re ur e he the man t k him h m , t n d, and and
ou were now the r y ng woman in dead c ush .
C omparatively few people were present to
The e r o e the assist . s nt y utsid and policemen
ou r all e e e ore the th ght at fi st that had scap d, b f
e a e re the oor w ow but flam pp a d at d s and ind s , all this time they were raging rou nd the inte
r The woo e of he h rio . d n lining t walls (t e building had once been u sed as a racket court)
u u fire o the o oors q ickly ca ght , als sl ping fl and
o e ro he b enches . Black and stifling sm k f m t c e ro e o the t r amphin ll d d wn fa al stai , and hid the for o e ro e w o e victims a m m nt , and d v a ay th s courageou sly assisting ou tside ; then it would roll c ose the o se ou e ces ba k, and discl ag ni d c nt nan
ce e of those doomed to destru ction . On a str am of flame ran down from the top to the bottom of the s r e er e ee e on fire e tai , v y h ad s m d , and th y were u e es m o e ou the painf lly and h lpl sly v d ab t,
wo e o ue re e n u er n was s ll n t ng s p v nti g tt a ce . It
a l ! o er c oud of an ppa ling sight Again, an th l s o e the roof fell and ort -five u n m k , in, f y h ma
e e e e e to e t . b ings , lat ly in h alth, c as d xis
2 94 ’ L ACAD IE .
o one or e o the 8 9th C l l Th p , c mmanding , was
e re t the e er e of men activ ly di c ing n gi s his , and
e o e e e t was ably s c nd d by his Adjutant, Li ut nan
e the o f e er o r . Knip , and by th fic s At first there was a great delay in getting
er The fire e wat . compani s brou ght up their e e but t e e e e e for o e e ngin s , h y w r us l ss s m tim ;
the e o e e e e at last n ighb uring w lls w r tapp d, and water carts brought up a supply from the r er oo e of r n ow oo iv . A g d d al st uggling t k
e et ee the r the n plac b w n milita y and civilia s, in
e r e er e to et er e r for th i ag n ss g wat , ach pa ty
r wn e o r tru e o e . No e e th i ngin s bl ws w s ck, ’Kill er e o . O th e was only an exc ss f zeal M r .
e r the or re e St wa t, May , was p s nt, and busily
e e ere M r M cCord M r . e ngag d, as w . , and Russ ll
he the o e for e M r. e t with P lic c , and W lls ,
Inspector of the Fire Department.
m et e e t r ro the ro I Li ut nan A mst ng in c wd, after his escape ; he told m e of those burning
e ran rou to the o e ere insid . I nd s uth gabl , wh
o e r ladders were being planted . S m B itish
or i axe o e out o e sail s had, w th an , kn ck d a h l in ’
L ACAD IE . 2 9 5
the e the box oo but the o e wall, n ar d r, p ning was made too late to be of u se ; but those who
s w made it were deserving of every praise. I a
M r M r. e er e a er t Al xand B ll, m chan , and
e o o e or of o rr ou J ss p, C ll ct Cust ms, ca ying a y ng
s e e lady (Miss Rea) down a ladder . I a c nd d
o er rr e o a re e e- oo an th , and ca i d d wn sp ctabl l king
o who s or e et who the w man, was c ch d, y , in
t of her o r e out for her o e ! mids agitati n, c i d b nn t
oor e r the oor who ee I saw a p man n a d , had b n re ue r i n e r for ou o sc d, c ying d spai a y ng w man
o he o e to the e re with wh m had g n th at , and who ow ere o be e The u was n h t se n . b ilding was e red e e The whit and with flam s insid . charred victims of the fire were in a heap
e the e of ro e e was insid , and sm ll ast d fl sh
sickening . A strong detachment of the 1 4th regiment
e ro the e the e e oo cam f m Citad l with ngin s , h ks ,
er or o o the and ladd s . Maj Wats n, c mmanding
re e re e o t of the o er gim nt, was p s nt, with m s th ffi o er . he m en o on the c s T , in c njuncti with
o r er 8 9th re e orme R y al A till y and gim nt, f d ’
2 96 L ACAD IE .
reet to e of er ea s st s pass suppli s wat , and by m n
of their united efforts with the hooks and
er t e r e the roof off the e ladd s, h y d agg d stabl s,
the u r ou e and saved g a d h se . Among th m
or e orou In all the e u w k d vig sly Captain g , D p ty
u r er er e er No Assistant Q a t mast G n al . thing could exceed the devotion and energy of the soldiers ; they fearlessly exposed themselves to
er ro f er e r o es dang f m alling timb , and th i cl th to injury ; and it is the opinion of those who
o re e on o o if ten o er l st lativ s this ccasi n, that s ldi s had b een present to assist those who so cou
’ r eou r e to e the suflerers t ag sly t i d sav , all migh
e ee ot out hav b n g .
The wing of the chateau b egan to smoke .
ereste o it to re er e as I was int d ab ut , p s v it, a
the relic of the palmy days of Quebec . On
f er ou er ll ro of . o o e t wa is a c ss St J hn J usal m ,
1 4 o cut o e the e 6 . t in st n , and with dat 7 I g an ax e and hewed down part of a wooden Spout
e to re e the fire fi om ru at an angl , p v nt nning up
h wa e e rro ed to t e roof. I s imm diat ly su und by
ree of the or or t o who ou t ere th c p a i n, th ght h
2 9 8 ’ L ACAD IE .
who cried distractedly for their lost relatives or — friends for those who were never again to cheer
the o d mestic hearth .
The ro re of the fire o t p g ss was m s rapid, yet it was at last got under when there was
o e to r T e of the es n thing l ft bu n . h gongs engin
Signalled for m ore water ever and anon ; and
ou two the or one one e ab t in m ning, by th y
e off o e o u e e r l ft w rking, ach c mpany, nn c ssa ily,
giving three cheers : silence was best after such
e e a s c ne of distr ss .
he e T e er e s r M r . . e n g tic magi t at , R Sym s, had directed that the bodies should not be
e tou ched till daylight . I went to b d for a few
our ro e e r to e r for ro er h s , and s a ly s a ch my b th of he e e rem of the ufferers ficer . T black n d ains s were rou out on the of b ght , and laid grass a
r h ou of the e e small ter ace at t e s th gable th atr .
or - ree r t were ou in ea ten F ty th at fi s f nd a h p,
ee o our ro four in e f t l ng, f b ad and h ight ; two o er ere erw r fo but ere th s w aft a ds und, m trunks .
e er the e the r e G n ally h ad, a ms, and upp r part ’
L ACAD IE . 2 9 9
of the body were consumed by the fire ; the
o er e o er e re The e s l w limbs b ing t l ably nti . l g
ere wi e or e e e os e w t st d and dist t d in v ry , p sibl
a er o e dr n to the e o er m nn ; s m aw up ch st , th s
r he ee o e s t e e out t f t e ne . tch d , and l gs in lin
o e the o e ere al o t all ur e off In s m cl th s w m s b n d ,
in others the gowns and trowsers were entire . By the dresses and shoes and boots the
of or es ere e e . One o c ps w id ntifi d b dy, that a
was o ere o ro r ru man , c v d with l ng b wn hai , t nk
and limbs . It was two hours before I could find poor
w h s e of o . t e Hamilt n At last , ith as istanc
o er e or or or u a H spital S g ant Radf d, C p al R nd ll,
an d o e of the m en of the re e we s m gim nt , recognized the remains and had them carefully
’ removed ; a lady s black silk scarf was u nder h is left arm ; his watch had stopped at twelve
u e to e e e o re min t s l v n . It was m st dist ssing to
witness those who came in search of relatives - their intense grief blinded them as they spread a sheet over the miserable remains of ’
3 00 L ACAD IE .
or re o e e to e r re e e m tality, and m v d th m th i sid nc s ,
’ the e t for coroner s inqu s .
e e o e re n e ere e e B sid s th s al ady am d, th p rish d
‘ r e er two of his M . H . Ca w ll, a m chant , and
m ru w t e e re M r . child n ; Si s, a d ggist , i h his ld st daughter and a son ; the wife and daughter
r H oo s of the or of the e M . Edit Canadi n g ,
oo - ee er o re two o b k k p , M nt al Bank, and s ns ; f h t M r . rr o r o f h . ro e t e o er o e T Ha is n , b th wn
r two so M rs . Dio ama ; M rs . Molt and ns ;
her s n r b u er Atkins and o ; M s . Gi b and da ght ;
M r . r ou ff M r . e Ma c x , a baili ; D vlin , a watch
& . The er M r . e e o er c mak ; Wh atl y, a stati n
e r r or er e o e ere ag d pai Ta dif, f m ly m nti n d, w
h r ou o t e e arm ar m . f nd am ng st, in
the u o ow the fire the o On S nday f ll ing , t lling of the e was e r ro e r o r b lls h a d f m an a ly h u , and funeral processions traversed the streets all day Fifteen cofli n s were laid out at one time in the
o o e r air of e R man Cath lic Cath d al , and an m lan
e choly reigned over the city . For a considerabl time after the late distressing event people could
’
L ACAD IE .
were in total darkness) the water at present is
ot fro e l ro u ers g m w l s, by int d cing suck , and in
r fro the er s water barrels on ca ts m riv . Thi
a er rou o l st is a v y gh way ; much is l st, and
long delays arise .
the e ere e e In W st India Islands , th is an xc l
rr e r r lent a ang ment fo water . La ge upright
s m e of e of - ron tank , ad plat s cast i , which stand
the c e e e up against publi buildings, lik imm ns
o o e r o e we e or e eet ctag nal s nt y b x s , t lv tw nty f
are e r w er fro the roo s . high, suppli d by ain at m f The pressure of the water sends a powerful
re ro the co e o e the ke st am th ugh ck b l w, wh n y
e the er u efu for ou e is appli d, and wat is s l h s
hold purposes after filtering ; for watering the
ree or for e u fire st ts , xting ishing . In Canada,
the . the ro t b e e by casing tanks , f s might k pt
off ; but even if they were useless during five
o of the e r e t be of e e m nths y a , th y migh ss ntial serv we r the ot er e e t ere is du ing h s v n , and h
only a trifling expense attending their con
s ru t ction .
Though about two millions worth of pro ’
L ACAD IE . 3 03
er e o e the re t fire of 1 8 4 5 p ty was d str y d in g a , it is gratifying now to relate that with the liberal assistance rendered by the mother coun
tr r e subscri y, with public grants and p ivat p
o ue ec r e w re ewe e u ti ns, Q b has is n ith n d b a ty
ro e w w er ree ore f m its ash s, ith id st ts , and m
u e re ro ed . s bstantial dw llings, and is g atly imp v A few days after the conflagration at the
e re ere o er o or Th at , th was an th at a s ap fact y, when the energetic services of the military were again attested ; this fire was in a dangerou s
o ere was o e e w l cality, as th a p wd r magazin ithin
u re r of o r the w a h nd d ya ds it , t wa ds which ind
ew o e f th r owe re bl . S m o e milita y sh d g at cou rage in preventing the flames taking effect on ere was the e u an d this . Th sam diffic lty
e o er e ore bu t w was n o d lay ab ut wat as b f , hich fli fault of the corporation then in o ce . Quebec has the advantage of beau tiful scenery
e oo ad and pleasant rides all round it. W t k
e of t f er the e o of the vantag his, and a t insp cti n re e we e e ur o to the ls of gim nt , mad xc si ns Fal the ere the of o o e Chaudi , with family C l n l 3 04 ’ L ACAD IE .
E Ord R . to th . e e Be u or the , , Lak a p t, with
ro ro e r de Lo e &c Ba n and Ba n ss G ant ngu il, .
e e r ru n to e to Th n I mad a apid Canada W st,
s re o s ere re u r the vi it my lati n th , and t ning by
he h u of t . ren e t e o Rapids St Law c , L ng Sa lt, ” & w is e to s oo c. ( hich it xciting h t in a s e er ro ow oes e t am , lling d n as it d maj stically,
the r er ro r u with ang y wat a ing and t mbling , and ru s ou rou ro the e hing ab t it) , b ght und tim ,
M . o s Bell i e w e H . ro e sl h n t p hip , , Captain King
o e R N rr e to rr u s to our e c mb , . . a iv d ca y n xt station at Halifax ; a life of constant change .
W e often wished we could establish our luggage ” in some old house at home by mountain and
e ro e ou r e e o . lak , and f m that mak xp diti ns
Our v o e on e w 1 4 w the 8 9 yag , ( ing th, ith th regiment) was agreeable the Captain was a fine
u or er to his e er b stling sail , v y kind pass ng s , and most attentive to his own duty . W e enj oyed
er o h o er w the e e f t e . re e Alpin sc n y L w St La nc , and got up games on b oard for the amusement of the of er m en e the e er was fic s and , wh n w ath
he . W e e ro the u f t calm pass d th ugh G l , saw
’ 306 E L ACAD I .
old o o in e o er e c l ny , agricultur , c mm c , mining,
e The o e &c. r er e t fo ere fish ri s , B itish G v nm n st d
No ot the o o t e e e too va Sc ia , and c l nis s d p nd d, mu er on the e e e for the ch p haps, xp nditur troo of t ere ere ee re ps, which h w always thr gi m e rr o at a f one of e e nts in ga is n H li ax , ( th s ,
o e er f r e e for e h w v , u nishing d tachm nts Princ
’ r e reto o Edwa d s Island, Cap B n, Annap lis and
t er or e e r er er . Winds ) , b sid s a ill y, sapp s and min s
u o at the ere Th s with such a garris n capital , th lacked some energy on the part of the colonists to engage in enterprises n ot connected with their home market ; they did not sufficiently help
e e e but e l now ou e do so th ms lv s , th y wil d btl ss , u nder the stimulating influence of their own
e n men er the e of l adi g , and und par ntal sway
her the British Government . England and ” C olonies against the world !
Y et onfe u r r e t t ere I was, I c ss, s p is d hat h
ere no er fro the ort of f w whal s m p Hali ax, and that no fishing b oats were sent to the Banks of
e e ee ft of Newfoundland . Th r might have b n fi y ’
L A CAD IE . 3 07
the e and the ro e o t e ot latt r, p pri t rs migh hav g rich ; there being such constant demand for cured fish in the Roman Catholic states of
As o r to Europe and America . a c nt ast this want of attention to the fisheries on the part of the o t o o a ee f er w r hy N va Sc tians, Yank ath at tu e who e oll r Nan ck t, had mad d a s
e of owi son to by fishing, inst ad all ng his
n o e to sea and e ha g ab ut, s nt him said W ll ,
Tom e for u e ou I mad my t n by fishing, y must ” now o tr e o r g , and y and mak y u s .
S o oo o the es e er with b ks als in Stat , is nt
e e The r er u er s pris sh wn . Ha p s , p blish s , aid
’ that a work of B ulwer s which is sold at a
e f er e guin a and a hal in England, may av ag t ree t o o e to the e o of the h h usand c pi s diti n , and
e or u r er o r o sam w k at a q a t d lla , sixty th usand
o e be o New or for o c pi s may s ld in Y k, ty th usand
o o the e er e in B st n , sam numb in Philad lphia,
’ &c e r e or the e . , and Jam s s admi abl w ks in sam
ro p portions . The enterprise of some of the Americans — takes another direction ah insane desire to ’ ’
L ACAD IE . remove all monarchical institutions fr om the
e r North American contin nt . This was pa ti cularly evinced at the time of the Oregon Ques
o w e the o e re o of the o ti n , h n wh l gi n C lumbia was grasped at ; but a large portion of the
er u o e n ow Am ican p blic is c nvinc d that , at all e e e e e ou err or to e v nts , th y hav n gh t it y manag one as r e uro e e o la g as E p , and that th y ught to allow their neighb ou rs to manage theirs in w er e oo e hat mann th y ch s .
In talking over these matters with a N ew
or e e one he he was u Y k g ntl man day , said m ch amused by a disclosure made by on e of his own
ou r e o he met uff o to c nt ym n , wh m at B al , and whom he was talking ab out the sympathizing
- o e e ro the U e e 1 8 3 7 3 8 . m v m nt f m nit d Stat s , in You went over to assist the Canadian rebels
’ 3 7 w u e ou to do ! in , hat b sin ss had y that
W e were e e r ou at p ac with B itain, why did y interfere
“ rue ou sa re e the It is t all that y y, pli d
’
3 1 0 L ACAD IE .
r her e e e e the o f B itain and d p nd nci s ; l ss o which,
the o of our the no and l ss standing in world , really loyal subj ect of H er Maj esty should ever
o e e Let o who for a moment c nt mplat . th se
doubt the valu e and importance of the British
o o e o e t C l ni s g and pay th m a visi , and thus
ou learn to appreciate them . D btless it is the
” mission of Great Britain to h old these pos sessions for the good of a large portion of the
u for the re of o er e h man family, and Sp ad c mm c ,
of z o of re i o to the e of the civili ati n, and l gi n , nds
earth . Though these measures may be highly poli
et at re e u er the l e of the tic, y p s nt, nd mi d rul
o er- ou r ere er e e of m th c nt y, th is v y littl caus
co er o mplaint in any of the Am ican C lonies .
o e eo e o e er o n r or S m p pl , h w v , will c mplai ight
wro the sur ure of one of the ng, and ab d nat complaints particularly struck an American
e e who e o e to m e t t he g ntl man , m nti n d ha had gone to Canada West to see the plank-roads
ere on o er to one or th , and his bs ving in auth ity “ oro o You are e e cert nl in T nt thriving h r , ai y ’
L ACAD IE . 3 1 1
ou e fine o er e o er e y hav a city, c nsid abl c mm c , a r - ou r r t e ich back c nt y, ha dly any ax s , and in ” proportion you have gone a-head of every c of the U o u ru e e e ity ni n , having q ad pl d in s v n
h o a e e r e e e . u o e t e u re y a s , I b li v I s pp s n, y quit content ”
No the o er we are not. , said th , Why
It is true we have all the advantages you
’ ” sa bu t we e e our ow o e or y can t l ct n G v rn . ” el ! ou are o re o e W l y m st un as nabl , said “ t e er not o r o r or oo h Am ican . Is y u G ve n a g d ” one !
Yes er oo . , a v y g d man
’ And don t you elect the other officers
m an o Yes v f e . , th m
e ou to ut o e of W ll, if y had p up with s m the o er or we e the e G v n s , which hav in Stat s,
the o o- o o or the m ob e e and which L c f c s , l ct,
ou ou o er o r e e e a off y w ld c nsid y u s lv s v ry b dly , ” ure ou I ass y . The American saw at once that some people
do n ot ow w e e are ell off he kn h n th y w , and 3 1 2 ’ L ACAD IE . added that many thousands of American citizens would gladly exchange the security and real
e e e e e o e u er the r ro ind p nd nc nj y d nd B itish C wn, for the constant p olitical ferment and the tyranny of public opinion attending the demo
r ru e the e c atic l in Stat s .
This last is evm ced in a singular manner in on e of the e of the re e u w ere citi s g at R p blic, h a young man cannot keep a horse ; if he
t e e he ou be m e a t mpt d it , w ld stig atis d as an
r idle .
efore the er set f we B wint in at Hali ax, made excursions with friends to the Grand and
’ r et o u Leon e . r t Lak s , and St Ma ga s Bay ; g p some athletic games for the troops (the regi
e arr o were the 1 4th 60th e m nts in g is n , Rifl s , an d 8 9 th an d e for few o the ) , I w nt a days int woo s er oose eer w r d aft m d , ith Captain O msby,
ree u ers . R . A . and th Indian h nt
ur the er ere were the u u s D ing wint , th s al ball w t r e . On e r and pa ti s was a g and fancy ball, i h a
Shaks eare u ri e e re p q ad ll in it ; and a th at , was
o e e u the of er er hands m ly fitt d p by fic s, and p
’
L A CAD IE .
' If th e sun s oul set re h d in g y,
The ex wi be a ra n t ll iny day .
was e to re ur to er to I invit d again t n Am ica , ser e on the s ff of o u e e v ta a m st disting ish d chi f,
’ his e e Sir e Urb D an . C B G . . Exc ll ncy, B njamin ,
Previou sly to embarking for the ninth voyage
cross the e ou r a Atlantic, I mad a t with Lady
Al ex er rou r e w er and th gh F anc , Italy . S itz land , the ro er we e Ty l , and G many , and had th n a m ost b oisterous passage to B oston in the royal
’
e er ber n R rie. mail st am Hi nia, Captai y On
or . . the voyage there were constant N . W . S W
w r w The o er u es o . gal , ith ain and sn w nd f l force of steam got us across ; but it took u s
e we three weeks of great discomfort . Th n had
ver rou er our e for a y gh wint j n y a family ,
rou N ew re er o r of th gh Hampshi , V m nt and pa t
ower to o re i n o e w o L Canada , M nt al, p n agg ns, on accou nt of the frozen and dangerou s state of the ro u 1 8 48 ads ; and in Jan ary, , as a finish ,
I had a very narrow escape from being frozen on retur ro ore er o e to ning f m S l, whith I had g n re ort e p mys lf. ’ D I 3 15 L ACA E .
he St. re e r o e T Law nc was still pa tially p n , though with a broad bor dage of ice along the
o e the re . banks , and fl ating mass s in st am I was told the b est place to cross was at Varennes on the sou to e for o t aux th bank, and mak P in
re es ro r e am e for e T mbl , (app p iat ly n d this tim
he e v re of the year) higher up t wid ri er . I hi d
re es two ou ou m en at Va nn st t y ng and a small ,
- e - o W e us e o er flat b ottom d sail b at . p h d it v
the or e au e it the u rre b dag , and l nch d in c nt ;
ere was fo on the r er c oo e r th a g iv , whi h l k d da k w and oo . W e ot to or c ar gl my g w k ith , sail,
an d e bu t the o ec e e se paddl ; c ld b am int n , and
as we e re the o os e s ore ou h we n a d pp it h , th g
oul n ot see for the fo the er see e c d it g, wat m d
to e o e c es to s u e b c m stagnant in pat h , and a s m
the e r e of rue - it was ree app a anc g l, f zing
there .
W e u e rou but e e p sh d th gh this ; it thick n d ,
we were o e co and blig d nstantly to back out.
The m en o u out all s e c ntin ally calling thi tim ,
r e o s eur ! de er C aign z pas, M n i pas dang , 3 1 6 ’ L ACAD IE .
” o e r ! was r er e e not M nsi u I ath v x d , as I did
et n e r u r er o as y a ticipat any pa tic la dang , as l ng
we could ex ert ou rselves ; but it is their way
on e e o o to ee u e r own coura e th s ccasi ns k p p th i g , an d there really was mu ch danger of our bemg
e th i e W e we e fix d in e c and destroyed . r carried
ow o e e not e e to e d n s m distanc , b ing abl mak
h We t e o we r the ore . P int , and at last st uck sh
found ourselves on Isle Therese ; the m en
e m e ere o the o the land d th am ng sn w, at small
o e of habi tant but e refu e to h us a , th y s d stay
ere e e e e Il f u re our er th th ms lv s ; th y said, a t t n ” re e aVa nn s . As I had no means of co mpelling them to re o e t or re main, and as I supp s d tha , b n and b d
e e w on the of the . re e banks St Law nc , th y kn we how to eal e o ll d with it at all s as ns, I paid
e e r re e u e off th m an xt a hi ; th y p sh d again , and
e re the fo but oor e o e disapp a d in g ; , p f ll ws , th y
' did n ot seem to have calculaated that the wind was now against them they could make no use of e r e one e on th i sail , and th y had hand l ss
r b oa d .
’
L ACAD IE .
’ e r er e er oo y a s s vic in Am ica, I again t k up my re e e for e the sid nc a tim at Canadian capital,
o re ere e e e of the e t M nt al, and h tak l av indulg n re er ad . A P P E N D I X .
N 1 . o .
L IST OF NIM L S O B SE V E D O S CE T INE D TO A A R , R A R A
E X IST I N N E W B U NSW I CK , R .
es er i o V p til Bat .
ca o s a a e s s o S l p C n d n i M le .
ura cr a r - C ondyl ist ta Sta nosed mole .
rsu s er ca u ac ar U Am i n s Bl k be .
c o or ac Pro y n lot R oon .
Putoriu s agilis Little nimble weasel .
bison Mink .
- r martes Pine ma tin .
- C anadensis Fisher weasel .
s er ca a u Mephiti Am i n Sk nk .
r a a e s s er Lu t a C n d n i Ott .
C an is occidentalis Wolf.
re fox V irgin ianu s G y .
vulpes Blac k . 3 20 A X PPENDI .
1 5 . a s u vus Red fox C ni f l .
1 6. d ecu ssatus Cro ss fox .
1 7 . ar entatu s ver fox g Sil .
1 8 . e s a a e s s x ou erv er F li C n d n i Lyn (L p C i ) .
1 9 . u o u sen s a ev arca ou or G l L Indi n d il , C j ,
o veri e W l n .
20. oca u n a a Ph vit li S e l .
hi s - 2 1 . er Z ibet cu u s u as u s rat . Fib M q h , M k
2 . as or er ea 2 C t Fib B ver .
2 3 er u s a a e s s u ou se . . G bill C n d n i J mping m
2 . M u u us ro a 4 s dec man B wn r t .
2 . ra ac r 5 ttu s Bl k at .
26. u scu u s ou se m l M .
2 . eu co u s e ou se 7 l p Fi ld m .
2 E u M ar 8 . rc o s m etra oo c c uebec A t my p W d h k , Q
m ot .
2 c uru s s r a u s rou s u rre . 9 . S i t i t G nd q i l
30 H u dson iu s o o red s u rre . . C mm n q i l
3 1 ero u i rr Pt mys vol cella Fly ng s qui el .
s or u . 3 2 . Hy trix dorsata P c pine
oose 3 3 . C ervu s alce s M .
du s rc ar ou or er ca re 34 . taran fu i C ib , Am i n in
r fer dee .
s ni u eer . 3 5 . C ervu V irgi an s D
e us A er ca u s are . 3 6. L p m i n H 3 7 Delphinu s Delphis Porpoise .
3 2 2 A I PPEND X .
2 1 . o ul u s ba sa era a sa P p l mif B l m p oplar .
2 2 ra e a a ar . . g ndid nt t Popl
2 3 . re u o es i e o t m l id Wh t p plar .
24 . u s r u er J glan cine ea B tt nut .
2 5 a er ca a ass woo or i e . . Tili Am i n B d l m
SHRUBS .
a x var ou s s ec es o S li ( i p i ) Will w. Acer stri atu m Moose wood or striped m a
le p .
o a u a e u s m nt n m M pl b h .
erasu s var . s ec es c err C ( p i ) Wild h y .
or u s ro s ra a C yl t t Hazel .
Al u s u o sa Al er n gl tin d .
ra ae us var . s ec es C t g ( p i ) Thorn .
or u s var . s ec es Red woo do woo red C n ( p i ) d, g d, d ro .
ur u u u Vib n m n d m Hobble bu sh .
ox co ccu s us cr b r y High b h an e ry .
or u s er ca a ou ai h S b Am i n M nt n as . S ambu cu s pub en sceu s er Eld . C anadensis
u s Rh typhina Su mach .
Loni cera ciliata Honeysu ckle .
es var S ec es curra an d oose Rib ( . p i ) Wild nt g
berry . 3 2 3 APPENDIX .
a a var . s ec es a a . 1 7 . K lmi ( p i ) K lmi
‘ u r s ec es ras berr an d bramble 8 u s va . 1 . R b ( p i ) Wild p y
r ber y .
1 o ora a a e s s . a . 9 . Rh d C n d n i L mb kill d 0 e u a o u a ra or tea . 2 . L d m l tif li m L b
2 1 aea re e s a flower . . Epig p n M y
2 2 a ea rocu e s a ea . . Az l p mb n Az l
a o . 2 3 . Hex C an densis H lly
24 acc u var . s ec . ue err . . V ini m ( p ) Bl b y
2 5 o sa a a D o ro se . . R bl nd g
2 dr o e a ca cula a ro e a . 6. An m d ly t And m d
2 7 Spiraea salicifolia Hard hack .
A T HERBACEOUS PL N S .
r u ur ureu a se wa e rob or ree T illi m p p m F l k in , th
erec u t es ree t m im th . C onvallaria can aliculata o o o s sea S l m n l . bifolia
vu ar a sess ol r U l i ilif ia Bell wo t .
r s vers co or a I i i l Fl g .
oo era u esce s a e roo G dy p b n Rattle sn k t .
CalO h o on u c e u s rass p g p l h ll G pink .
o o a o hio loss oides a o u P g ni p g Sn ke m th .
’ r e u acaule a s s er Cyp ip di m L die lipp .
D raccen a orea b lis W ild lily of the valley .
- Veratrum viride Hellebore (cow kill) . 3 24 APPENDIX .
a u cul r Y - - us va . s o wee . ec . e w crow foo R n n ( p ) ll d , t
Sarracenia pu rpu rea Indian cup .
o s ec es o . Vi la (var . p i ) Vi let
e a es r o a a uc M ny nth t if li t B k bean .
’ r sa e u leu W e wee u s Ch y nth m m hit d (b ll eye) .
can themum
Pyr ola rotu ndi foh a r Winter g een . u mbellata
Trientalis Americana Chick winter green .
Oxali s aceto sella Wo od s orrel .
r s r A alia hi pida B istly aralia .
sa ar l racemosa S ar p i la .
Prunella Pennsylvanica All heal .
i o u a u s fol a re wee w ll ow er . Ep l bi m ng ti i Fi d , i h b Gnaphaliu m margareta Pearl -flo wered life everlast
eeu m ing .
d rue Thalictrum ioicu m Meadow .
Fragaria Virginica Strawberry .
- Ap ocynu m an dro saemi Indian hemp (dog bane) . foliu m E upaton u m perfoh tum a Boneset . verticfllatu m
Linnaea b orealis Twinflower .
Dalibarda repens Spice root .
C optis trifoli a Gold thread . S anguinaria C anadensis Bloo d root
Erythroniu m America D og a to oth violet . m n u .
X 3 2 6 APPENDI .
- M el-kee- m aach win -c ee- ul o o -ta- aa ti j eck . nin h g m k g
- lin kees-e-n a-waam -kil win - chee- gul ko ' qui ak too - ack
- too in .
T H E L O R D ’ S P R A Y E R
I N TH E
M ILICETE LA GU AG N E .
’ M E -r o x - SEN A spu m -keek ay -e-en sa-ga-m ow- cc tel
’ m ox -se e tel-e-wee-s o - ee ee - oo e wee- c e - u n t k . Ch p t k h y l eek spu m -keek tau n e -too- chee- sau k- too -leek spu m - a
’ ka - en Too -c - au -n - k - - - s a - ee y e . ep n k a meen es e kees k h k l wek- a-y eu - leek el- m e-kees -kaak keel-mets -min a -wo o
’ lee M a- a -m -i a- a -l - -n - o ol- e e cl-m as . h te oo h k tee e wa ay t k we -chee-a-keel m e-koke-m ay -keel n e-m a-hate -hu m-too m o - o in .
TH E E ND .
L O N D O N
ri t b S hulze n n ed e a d Co . 1 3 oland Street. P y , , P