TRAILS of the PAST: Historical Overview of the Flathead National Forest, Montana, 1800-1960
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TRAILS OF THE PAST: Historical Overview of the Flathead National Forest, Montana, 1800-1960 By Kathryn L. McKay Historian 1994 Final report of a Historic Overview prepared under agreement with the United States, Flathead National Forest, Kalispell, Montana (Contract #43-0385-3-0363). Submitted in fulfillment of agreement by Kathryn L. McKay, Consulting Historian, 491 Eckelberry Dr., Columbia Falls, Montana, 59912. TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction Acknowledgements Previous Work Methodology Physical Environment Abbreviations Used in Text Introduction The Fur Trade Introduction The Fur Trade Missionary Activity and Early Exploration Introduction Missionary Activity Railroad Surveys International Boundary Surveys Other Early Explorations Mining Introduction Oil Fields Coal Deposits Placer and Lode Mining General Prospector's Life Placer and Lode Mining in the Flathead Settlement and Agriculture Introduction Settlement Up to 1871 1871-1891 1891 to World War II World War II to Present Forest Reserves Introduction Forested Land on the Public Domain up to 1891 Creation of the Forest Reserves GLO Administration of the Forest Reserves, 1898-1905 Forest Supervisors and Rangers on the Flathead and Lewis & Clarke Forest Reserves, 1898-1905 Forest Service Administration, 1905-1960 Introduction Qualifications of Early Forest Service Workers Daily Work of Early Forest Service Employees Forest Service Food Winter Work Families Injuries Special-Use Permits Forestry Research and Education World Wars Administrative Sites Boundaries Northern Pacific Railroad Glacier National Park Glacier View and Other Proposed Dams Hungry Horse Dam Transportation Introduction Early Trails Wagon Roads Railroads Automobiles Forest Service Trails Forest Service Trail Construction and Maintenance Forest Service Use of Pack Animals Forest Service Roads Communications Introduction Telephone Radio Fire Detection and Suppression Introduction Fire Behavior and History Early GLO and Forest Service Fire Policy 1910 Fires in the Northern Rockies Fire Detection Fire Suppression Cooperative Fire Efforts Timber Harvesting Introduction 1800s to 1905 Timber Trespasses Logging on Private Lands, 1905-1942 Railroad Ties Forest Service Logging, 1905-1942 General Swan Valley Middle Fork South Fork North Fork and North of Columbia Falls Logging During and Shortly After World War II Insect, Disease, and Windstorm Damage to Timber Logging in the 1950s Logging Methods Timber Cruising and Scaling Harvesting Skidding and Hauling River Drives Mechanization of Logging Logging Camps The IWW Strikes Multiple Use-Sustained Yield Act of 1960 Forest Homesteads Introduction Forest Homestead Act of 1906 Stillwater Area Homesteads North Fork Homesteads Middle Fork Homesteads South Fork Homesteads Swan Valley Homesteads Grazing and Other Commodities Introduction Grazing in the Flathead Valley General Forest Service Grazing Grazing on the Flathead National Forest Other Commodities Hunting, Fishing, Trapping, and Wildlife Managment Introduction Hunting Fishing Trapping Forest Service Wildlife Management The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) Era Introduction CCC Blister Rust Recreation and Wilderness Areas Introduction General Recreation Recreation in the Lake McDonald Area Flathead National Forest Recreation up to World War II Downhill Skiing Flathead National Forest Recreation after World War II Creation of Primitive and Wilderness Areas Bob Marshall Wilderness Mission Mountains Jewel Basin Conclusion Timeline Glossary Bibliography Index (omitted from the online edition) LIST OF FIGURES Figure 1. Map of Flathead National Forest and vicinity Figure 2. Fur trading posts in northwestern Montana and vicinity Figure 3. Locations of Native American tribes, ca. 1853 Figure 4. Fort Connah on the Flathead Indian Reservation, 1865 Figure 5. John Palliser Figure 6. Placing an international boundary marker Figure 7. Historic mining districts in northwestern Montana and vicinity Figure 8. Kintla oil well, 1904 Figure 9. Star Meadow mining district, showing locations of mines Figure 10. Nick Moon, ca. 1895 Figure 11. Post offices in the Flathead Valley area Figure 12. Towns that have had post offices in the Flathead Valley area Figure 13. Counties in western Montana: 1889, 1904, 1918, 1925 Figure 14. Street scene in Kalispell, ca. 1895 Figure 15. McCarthysville, 1918 Figure 16. Lewis & Clarke Forest Reserve boundaries in 1898 Figure 17. Flathead Forest Reserve boundaries in 1898 Figure 18. Supervisors of Flathead and Blackfeet National Forests, 1898 to present Figure 19. William Brennen, first supervisor of the Blackfeet National Forest Figure 20. Frank Liebig standing on rock cairn at Swiftcurrent Pass, 1906 Figure 21. Frank Geduhn at foot of Logging Lake, ca. 1907 Figure 22. Flathead and Blackfeet National Forest ranger districts ca. 1954 Figure 23. Cartoon drawn in 1930 Figure 24. Jack Clack wearing the packframe that he designed Figure 25. Winter camp near Calbick Creek, 1936 Figure 26. Echo Ranger Station, 1924 Figure 27. Flathead National Forest cartographic survey, 1960 Figure 28. Administrative sites on the Flathead National Forest Figure 29. Big Prairie Ranger Station, 1913 Figure 30. Elk Park packers' camp, ca. 1924 Figure 31. Drawing of Moran Ranger Station, ca. 1918 Figure 32. Construction at Spotted Bear Ranger Station, 1925 Figure 33. Big Prairie Ranger Station complex, ca. 1917 Figure 34. Big Prairie Ranger Station complex, 1990 Figure 35. Location of proposed Glacier View dam and reservoir Figure 36. Location of proposed Spruce Park dam, reservoir, and tunnel Figure 37. Map of reported Native American trails in Flathead Valley area Figure 38. Major roads and trails in Montana after 1850 Figure 39. Freighter on Fort Steele-Kalispell trail Figure 40. Mary Ann and State of Montana at Demersville, 1891 Figure 41. Map of Flathead County ca. 1905 Figure 42. Railroad routes in Montana, 1887, 1898, 1910 Figure 43. Primary roads and trails in Flathead National Forest area, 1898 Figure 44. Primary roads and trails in Flathead National Forest area, 1908 and 1912 Figure 45. Primary roads and trails in Flathead National Forest, 1928 and 1927 Figure 46. Fitting the abutment timbers on the Big Prairie bridge, 1922 Figure 47. Equipment for a five-man Forest Service trail crew in 1935 Figure 48. The Beatty trail grader Figure 49. Theodore W. (Toad) Paullin and a "short string," 1967 Figure 50. Toussaint Jones packing a hot water heater Figure 51. South Fork road near Upper Twin Creek, 1926 Figure 52. Trails and roads in the Trail Creek area, 1912 Figure 53. Trails and roads in the Trail Creek area, 1928 Figure 54. Trails and roads in the Trail Creek area, 1948 Figure 55. Trails and roads in the Trail Creek area, 1963 Figure 56. Fool Hen Bridge on North Fork Road (west side), 1953 Figure 57. Bulldozer working on Martin Creek access road, 1946 Figure 58. Harry Gisborne using a heliograph, 1915 Figure 59. Forest Service worker in the Spotted Bear Lookout Figure 60. Alidade stand and iron mine phone on Six Mile lookout, ca. 1920 Figure 61. Forest Service worker repairing telephone line, 1926 Figure 62. South Fork Road near Wounded Buck Creek, 1926 Figure 63. List of some of the major fires in the Flathead National Forest area Figure 64. Areas burned on the Blackfeet and Flathead National Forests, 1910 Figure 65. Areas burned by major fires on the Flathead National Forest, 1889-1949 Figure 66. Railroad speeder, 1921 Figure 67. List of emergency fire-season rations, 1914 Figure 68. "Seen area" photograph taken from Standard Lookout Figure 69. Spotted Bear Lookout, 1923 Figure 70. Locations of all known lookout sites on the Flathead National Forest Figure 71. Hornet Peak Lookout, 1923 Figure 72. LA-style lookout, Flathead National Forest Figure 73. C. J. Hash taking a reading on Salmon lookout, 1926 Figure 74. Portable water pump in use on Wolf Creek fire, 1924 Figure 75. Putting final touches on fire line, Tango Creek fire, 1953 Figure 76. Half Moon fire burning over Teakettle Mountain, 1929 Figure 77. Half Moon fire of 1929, acres burned and fire suppression costs Figure 78. Sawmill on Whitefish Lake Figure 79. Butte & Montana Commercial Company mill, ca. 1895 Figure 80. Interior of State Lumber Company sawmill, LaSalle, Montana, 1898 Figure 81. List of some of the sawmills in Flathead County in 1907 Figure 82. Timber types in the Flathead River drainage, 1922 Figure 83. Production of small mills vs. large mills in Montana, 1921-1948 Figure 84. Annual production of Christmas trees in Montana, 1936-49 Figure 85. Original Somers sawmill, built 1901 Figure 86. Somers Lumber Company workers and triangular railroad ties Figure 87. Annual production of sawed cross ties in Montana, 1925-47 Figure 88. McMillan & Kerr tie mill in Patrick gulch near Kalispell 1930 Figure 89. Hauling railroad ties by truck, Eureka, 1929 Figure 90. Location and relative production sawmills in northwest Montana, 1948 Figure 91. Working circles on the Flathead National Forest, ca. 1960 Figure 92. 1924 estimates of timber on the Blackfeet and Flathead National Forests Figure 93. Timber sales on Flathead National Forest, May 1926-January 1929 Figure 94. Location of Coram Experimental Forest Figure 95. Hypothetical timber sale in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Figure 96. Volume of timber cut on Flathead National Forest, 1935-1960 Figure 97. Number of sawmills and lumber production in Montana Figure 98. Relation of allowable cut to annual cut, 1916-1957 Figure 99. Scaling logs Figure 100. Sawyers felling a Douglas-fir with a cross-cut saw Figure 101. Larch butts discarded on ACM sale, Seely Lake, Montana, 1908 Figure 102. Frank Motichka and logging crew, ca. 1910 Figure 103. Loading logs on to GNRR 40 miles west of Kalispel, 1939 Figure 104. Logging railroads in Flathead Valley area Figure 105. Shay locomotive Figure 106. Logs in Stillwater River near Olney, 1924 Figure 107. Splash dam on outlet of Whitefish Lake Figure 108. Log drive on Middle Fork of the Flathead Figure 109. Wannigan on Stillwater River near the end of a log drive Figure 110. Willis March logging truck, 1920s Figure 111. Floor plan of railroad cars used at a logging camp, ca. 1934 Figure 112. Logging camp known as Camp 3, Fortine, Montana Figure 113.