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13 > 16 / 04 / 2011 www.pioletsdor.org 13 > 16 / 04 / 2011 photo © expe Lunag 2010 Le mot des maires A word from our mayors La parola ai Sindiaci L’alpinisme : culture et valeurs The culture and values of alpinism L’alpinismo come cultura e valori La montagne et l’alpinisme constituent les fondements de la culture et The culture and identities of the alpinists who live by these ideals Per le comunità che vivono ai piedi del Monte Bianco la montagna e de l’identité des communautés qui vivent au pied du Mont-Blanc. communities living at the foot of and promote the spirit of moun- l’alpinismo costituiscono degli elementi fondanti della propria cultura e Il s’agit d’un véritable patrimoine de mémoires et de valeurs grâce aux- Mont-Blanc have been shaped taineering in their endeavours della propria identità. quelles, de part et d’autre du massif, l’histoire de Courmayeur et de over time by the mountains that and achievements. We believe Si tratta di un vero e proprio patrimonio di memorie e di valori con i Chamonix s’est construite. Deux territoires, aujourd’hui toujours plus surround them. The rich heritage this spirit is not only expressed quali, al di qua e al di là del Massiccio, è stata scritta la storia sia di engagés pour témoigner que la haute montagne parvient à unir les and strong values of alpinism in conquering summits, outs- Courmayeur che di Chamonix. Due realtà che oggi sono sempre più communautés par-delà les frontières géographiques, au nom d’idéaux form the history of Courmayeur tanding performances, and the impegnate a testimoniare la capacità della grande montagna di unire le universels : l’éthique, la loyauté, la solidarité, le respect de l’homme et and Chamonix. search for unexplored massifs, comunità e le persone oltre i confini geografici, ma soprattutto nel nome de l’environnement. Today more than ever, our two but also by enhancing and cele- di alcuni ideali universali: l’etica, la lealtà, la solidarietà e il rispetto per Telle est la dimension culturelle qui motive l’organisation des Piolets communities are united by the brating the ethical and human as- l’uomo e per l’ambiente. d’Or à Chamonix et Courmayeur, là où fut inventé l’alpinisme et là où mountains that form our geogra- pects of these expeditions and of E’ questa la dimensione culturale nella quale i due paesi, che condivi- il se pratique et se réinvente toujours. Cette manifestation contribue à phical borders, and by a commit- the alpinists themselves. dono il ruolo di culla e patria dell’alpinismo moderno, e le loro istituzioni la reconnaissance de ceux qui, avec leurs engagements, hier comme ment to the mountain ethos of sono impegnati a sostenere i Piolets d’Or. Una manifestazione che offre aujourd’hui, sont les interprètes et les témoins de ces valeurs représen- loyalty, solidarity and respect for In the name of the communities la possibilità di dare un riconoscimento forte a coloro che, nel presente tant l’esprit le plus authentique des gens de la montagne. the environment. of the Mont-Blanc range, we ex- e in passato, con le loro imprese, sono e sono stati interpreti e testimoni Nous croyons que, de nos jours, cet esprit peut s’exprimer non seule- This forms the cultural motivation tend a warm welcome to everyo- di questi valori, che rappresentano lo spirito più autentico e profondo ment dans la conquête des sommets, l’accomplissement de performan- for the organisation of the Pio- ne wishing to share these events delle genti di montagna. ces ou la recherche de lieux inexplorés mais également en valorisant lets d’Or between Chamonix and with us, celebrating the past Spirito che, oggi come oggi, crediamo possa essere espresso non tanto et en célébrant la dimension éthique et humaine des expéditions et des Courmayeur - in the very birth- and present of mountains, alpi- dalla conquista della grande cima, dall’exploit o dalla ricerca dell’ines- alpinistes. place of alpinism itself. The event nism, and of all those touched by plorato, quanto piuttosto dalla valorizzazione e dalla celebrazione della Au nom des communautés du Mont-Blanc, nous souhaitons ainsi sin- helps give recognition to those them. dimensione etica, umana, nonché tecnica delle spedizioni e dei loro pro- cèrement la bienvenue à tous ceux qui partageront ces journées avec tagonisti. nous pour fêter et pour célébrer l’histoire et le présent de la haute mon- A nome delle comunità del Monte Bianco, dunque, un sincero benvenuto tagne, de l’alpinisme et de ses acteurs. a tutti coloro che saranno con noi, in queste giornate, per festeggiare e celebrare la storia ed il presente della grande montagna, dell’alpinismo e dei loro protagonisti. Eric Fournier Fabrizia Derriard Doug Scott incarne l’alpinisme d’aven- Doug Scott personifies mountainee- Doug Scott incarna l’alpinismo di ture et d’exploration. Il est de ces vi- ring adventure and exploration. He is avventura e di esplorazione. Fa parte di sionnaires qui ont montré qu’on peut the type of visionary who has shown quei visionari che hanno dimostrato che escalader les plus hauts sommets de la that it is possible to climb some of è possibile scalare le più alte cime del planète en style alpin, entre amis, avec the highest summits on the globe, or pianeta in stile alpino, in compagnia di WALTER pour tout bagage ce que peut contenir in the Alps, while in the company of a amici, portando solo quanto può conte- un sac à dos. few friends and with just the contents nere uno zaino. BONATTI Ses ascensions sont innombrables, des of a backpack. Le sue salite sono numerosissime, dalle Alpes au Yosemite, de l’Hindu Kuch à la His ascents are numerous, from the Alpi allo Yosemite, dall’Hindu Kuch alla 2009 Terre de Baffin. Alps to Yosemite, Hindu Kush to Terra di Baffin. En 1975, il est au sommet de l’Everest Baffin Island. Nel 1975, raggiunge la vetta dell’Eve- avec Dougal Haston, après la première Along with Dougal Haston, he summi- rest con Dougal Haston, dopo la prima de la difficile face sud-ouest. Doug se ted Everest in 1975 opening the diffi- della difficile parete Sud-Ovest. D’ora consacrera désormais exclusivement au cult South-West Face. He then devoted in avanti, Doug si dedicherà esclusiva- style alpin. Ils ouvrent une voie de 2800 himself exclusively to alpine style mente allo stile alpino. L’anno succes- m très engagée l’année suivante au De- climbing. The pair would join forces sivo aprono una via molto impegnativa nali 6195 m. again the following year to open a dif- di 2800 m sul Denali (6195 m). En 1977, avec Chris Bonington, il gra- ficult 2800m route on Denali (6195m). Nel 1977, con Chris Bonington, scala vit le Baintha Brakk (Ogre), 7285 m, In 1977, with Chris Bonington, he il Baintha Brakk (Ogre - 7285 m), una une montagne difficile du Pakistan. Sa climbed Baintha Brakk (7285m), one montagna difficile del Pakistan. La sua descente à quatre pattes, les chevilles of the most difficult mountains in discesa a quattro zampe, con le caviglie brisées, reste une des plus incroyables Pakistan. On the way down, he fell spezzate, rimane una delle più incredi- épopées de l’Himalaya. and broke both ankles but continued bili epopee dell’Himalaya. En 1979, il ouvre une voie au Kang- on all fours; a feat which remains Nel 1979, apre una via sul Kangchen- chenjunga, 8585 m avec Joe Tasker, amongst one of the most astonishing junga (8585 m) con Joe Tasker, Peter Peter Boardman et Georges Bettem- in Himalayan history. Boardman e Georges Bettembourg. Lo bourg. Cette même année, il est au Ku- In 1979, he opened a route on Kan- stesso anno, è sul Kusum Kanguru con sum Kanguru avec Georges, et à la face gchenjunga (8585m) with Joe Tasker, Georges e sale la parete N del Nuptse Nord du Nuptse avec Alan Rouse, Brian Peter Boardman and Georges Bettem- con Alan Rouse, Brian Hall e Georges Hall et Georges Bettembourg… bourg. That same year, Doug went to Bettembourg… En 1982, c’est à la face sud du Shisha- Kasum Kanguru with Georges and to Nel 1982, apre una via, ancora in stile pangma qu’il ouvre une voie, toujours en the North Face of Nuptse with Georges, alpino, sul versante Sud dello Shisha- REINHOLD style alpin, avec Alex McIntyre et Roger Alain Rouse and Brian Hall. pangma, con Alex McIntyre e Roger Baxter-Jones. In 1982, he opened a route, alpine Baxter-Jones. MESSNER Il fait plusieurs expéditions au K2, tou- style, on the South face of Shisha- Compie diverse spedizioni sul K2, tutte in tes en style alpin, et deux tentatives très pangma with Alex McIntyre and Roger stile alpino, e due tentativi molto audaci 2010 poussées (jusqu’à 8180 m, puis 8370 m) Baxter-Jones. (fino a 8180 m, poi fino a 8370 m) sullo sur l’arête sud-est du Makalu, 8471 m, He made several trips to K2, always spigolo Sud-Est del Makalu (8471 m) nel en 1980 et 1984. in alpine style, and two determined 1980 e nel 1984. Il est aussi, avec Rick White, Georges attempts at the South-East Ridge Con Rick White, Georges Bettembourg e Bettembourg et Greg Child, l’auteur of Makalu (8471m) in 1980 and 1983 Greg Child, è anche l’autore della prima (1981) d’une des plus belles voies du (8180m and 8370m consecutively). di una fra le più belle vie del mondo sullo monde sur le Shivling, un sommet de Doug Scott is also responsible for Shivling (6543 m), nel Garhwal.
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