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Annual Report 2003 contents 2 and beresponsiblefortheir ownactionsandinvolvement. personal injuryordeath. Participantsintheseactivitiesshouldbeawareof and accepttheserisks The BMCrecognisesthatclimbing,hillwalking,and mountaineeringareactivitieswithadangerof Office Reports Other Reports Area Reports Specialist Reports Management Information Finance Report CEO &ManagementSummary Message President’s ebrhpSrie 22 21 23 20 20 20 20 Club &AssociateMembers2003 18 Membership Services 20 19 19 18 Future PolicyReview 20 21 Union InternationaledesAssociationsd’Alpinisme Mountain LeaderTraining England 17 19 16 Plas yBrenin&MountainTraining Trust 19 High MountainMagazine 16 Central CouncilforPhysicalRecreation 17 17 16 Mountain RescueCouncil Alan RouseLibrary Mountain LeaderTraining UK 15 Mountaineering Co-ordinationGroup British MountainGuides 14 British UplandFootpathTrust 15 14 12 11 13 12 Wales Peak District Yorkshire &Humberside London &SouthEast 11 North East Midlands North West Lake District 8 High Performance Training 10 Climbing Walls Technical 10 International Guidebooks Youth Huts Competitions Harrison’s Rocks ManagementGroup Access &ConservationTrust Access &Conservation BMC AnnualReport2003 BMC ParticipationStatement Page BMCAnnualReport 2003 7 6 5 4 The British Mountaineering Council promotes the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers and the freedom to enjoy their activities. Through a democratic representative structure the BMC will:

• Negotiate access improvements and promote cliff and mountain conservation.

• Promote and advise on good practice, facilities, training and equipment.

• Support events and specialist programmes including youth and excellence.

• Provide services and information for members.

Elected Officers Honorary Members Honorary Legal Advisers President Mark Vallance Dave Gregory Paul Debney Vice President Paul “Tut” Braithwaite Michael Holton Stephen Porteus Vice President John Mason Vin Machin Anthony Rich Vice President Louise Thomas Neville McMillan Harry Sales Hon Treasurer Gordon Adshead Geoff Milburn Martin Wragg Brian Monk Robert Pettigrew Patrons Mike Ratty Alan Blackshaw OBE George Steele Honorary Medical Advisers Sir Chris Bonington CBE Ken Wilson Mr Steve Bollen Lord Chorley Dr Charles Clark Dr David Hillebrandt CEO Auditors Dr Jim Milledge David Turnbull Salter & Co

Headquarters Equal Opportunities Statement 177-179 Burton Road The BMC encourages its members to adopt a positive approach to Manchester M20 2BB equal opportunities and the elimination of discrimination. The Tel: 0870 010 4878 BMC values the support of all sections of the mountaineering Fax: 0161 445 4500 community and welcomes the opportunity to assist all groups in [email protected] its work to promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and www.thebmc.co.uk mountaineers.

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) has over 63,000 members and exists to promote the interests and protect the freedoms of climbers, hill walkers, and mountaineers, including ski mountaineers. It is a company limited by guarantee (no 2874177) without a share capital. The BMC was formed in 1944 and is a democratic representative body controlled by a Management Committee made up of locally elected Area representatives and nationally Elected Officers. The BMC is a National Governing Body of sport recognised by Government and the different sports councils in the United Kingdom. The BMC is grant supported by UK Sport and Sport England.

BMC Annual Report 2003 3 President’s Message rate. I am pleased to report that tional level the BMC continued to be some club members have taken strongly represented in the UIAA by pro- up this offer (which includes viding the Presidents and Vice-Presidents four issues of Summit a year, of several Commissions. full individual voting rights and Our members always rate ‘access’ as a £10,000 of public liability in- priority and many successes have been surance) and are now fully sup- achieved on both a local and national level. porting the BMC’s many and From crag clean-ups to lobbying the gov- varied work programmes. A key ernment on the CRoW act, the Access part of the ongoing subscrip- Representatives have been hard at work. tions debate is the Personal Li- This year has also seen some real steps ability Insurance included with forward at areas such as Cheddar Gorge, all Individual and Club Mem- long stuck in a restrictive climbing ban berships. Spiralling insurance regime. With the re-vitalised South West premiums continue to threaten Area Committee and the efforts of Mar- Mark Vallance on Super Crack. our political structure and tin Crocker this looks set to change. The policy on this issue is subject impressive role played by the Peak Area It’s been a year since I took over the to ongoing scrutiny. access team owes much to the energy of mantle of BMC President from the capa- Government funding for sport is also Henry Folkard who is making a good re- ble hands of Dave Musgrove, and I must under review and the situation is com- covery from back surgery. 2003 also saw admit it’s been a real eye opener. Dave plex. The London Olympic Bid means the award to Alan Blackshaw of the left to spend “more time climbing, and that UK Sport is focussing its efforts on Golden Eagle Award from the Outdoor less time in meetings”, and I’m beginning certain medal winning sports (e.g. cycling Writers Guild for his work on country- to grasp what he meant! and swimming) and may turn away from side access issues. On the guidebook front, 2003 was an exciting year for mountain- less mainstream sports such as climbing. the first of a new series of Guides (Staf- eering, and we’ve had an unusually high It would certainly be ironic if the very fordshire Grit) is nearing completion (hon- media profile. Firstly the Fiftieth Anni- year after Everest and Touching the Void estly!) - the draft looks excellent, well versary of Everest grabbed the headlines, highlighted mountaineering, that our rela- done to all involved. 2003 was also offi- and barely a day went by without some tively modest grants were threatened. The cially our most successful competition form of TV coverage. And just when that punch that British Mountaineering packs season on record; Tom Bolger recorded a all calmed down, Touching the Void won on the world scene is impressive, but dif- European Cup win and Malcolm Smith Outstanding British Film in the BAFTAs, ficult for gold-medal-seeking Ministers to first place at the International Masters at really hammering home British Mountain- comprehend. Sport England may well hold Climb ’03. eering into the public consciousness. greater hope for the BMC as the govern- Communication is a key issue for the But it’s not just our public profile that ment has also set ambitious targets to get BMC and throughout 2003 we strived to is healthy, after several years of uncer- the nation healthy and active by 2020 - keep members informed of all aspects of tainty, the BMC is on the up, and the climbing and walking could play a signifi- our work. Summit magazine plays a current Future Policy Review should help cant role in this respect. central role in this, and goes from strength the BMC focus on what you, our mem- An important development this year has to strength. I must admit, even I’ve started bers, want from your national body. been the Future Policy Review. In the reading it! But alongside the more Dave’s presidential message last year autumn ten well-attended open meetings traditional avenues of information is the painted a rather foreboding picture but were held around the country and not sur- web, and the introduction of the new ended with the simple hope that the BMC prisingly the majority felt that the BMC’s BMC Area Discussion boards on was on a firmer base than when he took most important functions were ‘access ukclimbing.com proved to be a major leap over. I am pleased to report that it now is, and conservation’ and ‘political represen- forward in accessibility. More than any- and we should all thank him for his sig- tation’. The next stage will address the ad thing else, this has helped boost attend- nificant efforts that just did not have the hoc development of BMC structures with ance at area meetings and enabled grass time to blossom during his brief period in a view to re-organising them in a more roots climbers to get involved, and is sure office. This year’s good financial results logical way. This will not be easy as the to have a continuing role to play in the indicate a degree of stabilisation, and much BMC is a broad organisation with many Future Policy Review. of the credit for that must go to Alan different facets. Some want progression, Finally I would like to thank all of the Brown, the BMC Financial Controller for some want a return to minimalist core hard working committee members and producing prompt and reliable monthly values, but any changes recommended by volunteers who have helped make 2003 a accounts under the guidance of Gordon the Future Policy Review will be tested successful year for the BMC. It is only Adshead’s practised and cautious hand as out in 2004 with a view to bringing them with the help of volunteers that the BMC Treasurer. to the 2005 AGM. Discussion of sug- can build on successes, respond to the But this is no time to rest on our laurels. gested new policies will be encouraged at needs of members and ensure that it The finances still need to be watched very club and area level as well as in the maga- continues to be the relevant, forward carefully, more so than ever with the im- zines and on the web. thinking and responsive organisation re- pending and significant changes to the It’s easy to get the impression that 2003 quired to serve the needs of our members. membership structure. For a while now has been spent wrestling with policy is- the Club and Individual Member situa- sues. But while this may have kept me tion has been bubbling away, and it was at locked in meeting after meeting, the BMC the 2003 EGM that the decision was made as a whole has continued to work hard for to freeze club subscriptions for 2004, climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, whilst giving club members the option to and all volunteers and staff should be con- Mark Vallance BMC President upgrade to full membership at a reduced gratulated for their efforts. At an interna- 4 BMC Annual Report 2003 CEO & Management Summary 2003 in brief Democratic representation and decision making At the start of 2003 my number one bition at Rheged. Also worth mentioning dents. It was agreed to hold an EGM in priority was to ensure that the BMC’s is the launch of the BMC funded Cheddar October 2003 to agree subscription rates finances were brought firmly back on Gorge Project. This is being managed by for 2004. A motion to temporarily sus- track. I am very pleased to report that Martin Crocker with the aim of securing pend the South West and Southern Area this has been achieved and that we ended summertime access at Cheddar. Committee was agreed. 2003 with a budget surplus of some £77k In essence, 2003 was a year of consoli- 25 June, BMC Office: ManCom agreed - the first time that we have had a surplus dation and careful financial management. to initiate a Future Policy Review (the since 1999! Resolving the BMC’s finances We have learnt many lessons over this third such review conducted by the BMC). has been a two-year effort involving many period and the BMC is a considerably 8 October, BMC Office: The Treas- people, but special thanks must go to the stronger organisation than it was a year urer reported that the BMC was on target Treasurer, the Financial Controller and the ago. I would like to pass on my thanks to end 2003 with a surplus of c. £80K. It Finance Committee for their sustained and to the many volunteers, staff and the was confirmed that UK Sport had awarded diligent efforts. It goes without saying broader membership who have made this the BMC the full grant for 2004-2005 but that sound and realistic financial planning possible. that the Competitions and Performance will be a top priority for the BMC’s man- grant had been removed as expected. It agement team in future years. was reported that in the recent UK Sport Another ‘positive’ in 2003 was the corporate governance and grant monitor- Sports Council audit. Conducted over a ing audit the BMC had achieved the high- four-day period in August the audit in- est level of audit approval but that many Dave Turnbull (CEO) vestigated the BMC’s corporate govern- issues still needed to be addressed. ance and handling of government grant 6 December, Plas y Brenin: It was funding. To cut a long story short - we BMC Management Committee agreed that the Peak Area would explore got the green light and although future The Management Committee the purchase, risks and implications of Sports Council funding is uncertain, we (ManCom) comprises representatives buying Horseshoe Quarry. The Terms of are hopeful that we can continue to put a elected annually at Area Meetings and the Reference for the Future Policy Review strong case to government for ongoing Elected Officers (i.e. the President, Vice Steering Group were approved and it was support. 2003 also saw the UK Sport Presidents and Hon Treasurer) who are reported that around 450 people had at- funded IT modernisation project get prop- elected at the AGM. In 2003 ManCom tended the 10 area open meetings. erly underway with the Training Boards met on five occasions. Meeting summa- and MCofS agreeing a system specifica- ries were published in Summit, the BMC Management Committee tion in August and IT contractors being website and circulated at Area Meetings. Members appointed in October. We expect the new The following is a summary of issues aris- President Mark Vallance Vice President Louise Thomas integrated database to be operational in ing in 2003: Vice President John Mason the summer of 2004. 8 Feb, Plas y Brenin: Specialist com- Vice President Paul Braithwaite A notable ‘first’ for the BMC occurred mittee chairs gave presentations on future Treasurer Gordon Adshead in October in the form of the EGM. This work programmes and the membership Chief Executive Dave Turnbull followed an eventful AGM in April where and terms of reference of specialist com- Lakes David Staton Lakes Chris Cant members demanded greater analysis of the mittees were approved. A resolution to North West Malcolm Eldridge subscriptions rates and structure. Agree- increase individual and club subscriptions North West Carl Spencer ment on subscriptions was reached at the was agreed for the AGM. It was reported London & SE Daphne Pritchard EGM although the thorny issue of indi- that Jonathan White (Chair of TAG) and London & SE Roy Court vidual / club member voting rights still Neville McMillan (Chair of the Technical Midlands Charles Gameson Midlands Graham Richmond remains. Committee) intended to stand down dur- North East Alan Hinkes Perhaps the most significant initiative ing 2003. North East Peter Simcock in 2003 however was the launch of a Fu- 11 April, Buxton: The Honorary Treas- Peak District Phil Robins ture Policy Review – a comprehensive urer summarised and circulated the 2002 Peak District Mike Hunt investigation of the BMC’s operational Annual Accounts and advised that own- Wales Robert Platt Wales David Meeson structures, priorities and future objectives. ership of the National Mountaineering Yorks & Humberside Andy Blakely A Steering Group was set up in June Exhibition had been transferred to Yorks & Humberside Alex Lawrence (chaired by Bob Moulton) and as part of Westmorland MS who had now taken on MCofS John Mackenzie the consultation process, 10 Area Open all the assets and liabilities. A report from MCofS Nick Halls Meetings were held around England and the Helmets Working Group concluded Co-opted Members that there was no reason to change the Joint Services Richard Painter Wales in the autumn to gather climbers BMG Dick Peart and walkers views. With an average at- current BMC position on the use of hel- MLTE Martin Doyle tendance of 45 people per meeting there mets. Competition Climbers Gareth Parry is clearly genuine interest in the BMC’s AGM Summary: The 2002 Annual SW & Southern John Booth work at a local level so hopefully we can Report and Annual Accounts were adopted Observers look forward to a stronger Area Commit- and the Auditors were re-appointed. High Magazine Geoff Birtles Plas y Brenin Iain Peter tee structure emerging in the future. Dave Musgrove stood down as President MCI Declan O’Keeffe 2003 will probably be best remembered and Alex Lawrence stood down as Treas- MLTE Andy Say as the Everest 50th anniversary year, which urer. Mark Vallance was elected as the MRC David Allan was marked by a high profile celebratory new President, Louise Thomas as Vice UK Sport Vikki McPherson event (attended by the Queen) at the President and Gordon Adshead as Treas- Sport England Chris Dodd Sports Council for Odeon Cinema, Leicester Square on 29 urer. John Mason and Paul (Tut) Wales Ann Bevan May and the launch of a major new exhi- Braithwaite were re-elected as Vice Presi- (plus Chairs of BMC Specialist Committees)

BMC Annual Report 2003 5 Finance Income and Expenditure Account (£) The Finance Committee met 9 times in the year to monitor and advise the Management and Executive Income 2003 2002 Committees on the BMC’s financial position. Membership Subscriptions 792,643 658,061 Sports Councils Grants 137,500 147,500 UK Sport Grant - International Travel 15,545 22,515 The summary of income and expenditure appears opposite. Harrisons Rocks Contract 30,967 30,967 Other Grants and Donations 74,200 74,628 The Directors are pleased to report that the extra financial Surplus from Insurance Scheme 274,131 286,083 controls put in place in February 2002 have been effective and Surplus from Magazines have resulted in a very much improved balance sheet. - High, OTE, Climber & Trail 9,412 5,652 The Sports Council undertook an audit in the summer; the (Deficit)/Surplus from Guidebook Sales 3,883 908 BMC was given a high rating and no significant issues were Other Publications 1,781 23,399 identified. Income from Videos 1,836 1,245 Sundry income (Huts, RR Cards, Coaches) 13,443 12,079 Year 2003 surplus - Following the deficits of the past three Release of Grants 2,136 2,136 years a very tough budget was agreed for 2003. Bank Interest and Royalties 10,713 12,636 The Officers and Staff have done a magnificent job of working Admin Fees (MLTE) 43,037 40,117 within the budget and yet still providing a very high standard of Other Income re Specialist programmes 50,258 50,704 support to the many activities of the BMC. 1,461,485 1,368,630 Total membership has increased to over 63,000 (an 8% increase), Expenditure which was 5% better than planned and as a result a surplus of Salaries and Personnel 507,047 571,597 specialist reports £77k has been achieved. Office Accommodation and Costs 56,906 67,107 While the general aim is to balance income and expenditure, this Printing, Stationery and Postage 101,878 107,516 surplus represents a small fraction (approx. 5%) of our total Marketing and Publicity 26,179 36,487 Finance, Consultancy, Bank Charges 41,639 37,531 turnover and has done a great deal to restore our working cash IT Computer Maintenance and Software 5,107 10,113 position to a prudent level. Depreciation 41,303 44,256 Mountain Heritage Trust and National Mountaineering Irrecoverable VAT 31,774 45,296 Exhibition - The transfer of the NME to Westmorland Ltd was Summit Magazine 101,855 115,455 achieved successfully. MHT is in a solvent position and was Personal Accident and Civil able to promote the highly acclaimed Everest Exhibition. The Liability Insurance 187,059 108,253 legal and financial costs of sale were slightly less than the £20k AGM, Area Meetings and Events 24,458 37,364 reserved. The first of the three annual purchase payments of Festival of Climbing 0 (1,953) Cost of Specialist Activities 258,519 317,967 £50k was paid in April 03. 1,383,724 1,496,989 2004 - Despite some large cuts in Sports Council Grants we plan to support all current activities at established levels and we Surplus/(Deficit) on Ordinary are confident this can be achieved within a balanced budget. Activities before Tax 77,761 (128,359) Within the budget we have allocated funds to run an Interna- Add Corporation Tax (645) (861) tional Meet, which had to be dropped in 2003. We have received an IT grant of c.£100k from UK Sport to Surplus/(Deficit) on Ordinary promote modernisation across all Mountaineering Councils and Activities after Tax 77,116 (129,220) Training Boards. The first design phase of £20k has been Transfer to Accumulated Fund 77,116 (129,220) committed and the remainder of the contract is planned to be signed in March. During the year we expect to move to a new database with considerably enhanced internet access for members. 2005 and beyond - It is quite clear that Civil Liability insur- Five year summary of main income (£’000) ance will continue to rise each year for the next 4 years. This 2003 2002 2001 2000 1999 coupled with other relentlessly increasing costs, has caused us to Subscriptions adopt (as generally endorsed at the EGM in October) a different Individual 608 505 435 395 343 subscription structure, to more realistically reflect the balance Club 166 134 110 120 89 and different requirements of Club Members and Individual Associate 19 19 18 16 15 Members. The full implications are being discussed by the Fu- 793 658 563 531 447 ture Policy Steering Group. Other Income Sport Councils Grants 137 147 155 152 107 It is the Directors view that we have a growing membership Publications 14 26 (1) 36 22 and with good cost controls the BMC can and will grow stronger Insurance Scheme 274 286 220 224 221 and will continue to serve the interests of its members effec- Interest, Grants etc. 200 201 173 137 184 tively and well. 1418 1318 1110 1080 981

Finance Committee Individual and Club members at 31st Dec Membership as at John Shaw Chair 70000 31/12/03 Gordon Adshead Hon. Treas. Individual Dave Turnbull CEO BMC 60000 Alan Brown Financial In Clubs Individual 33,881 50000 Controller Total In Clubs 27,784 40000 Alex Lawrence Total 61,665 Mark Vallance President 30000 Brian Griffiths MLTE 20000 2003 average individual Mike Watson 10000 membership 32,864 Vic Odell

0 Graham Richmond Mancom Rep 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 Charles Gameson Mancom Rep

6 BMC Annual Report 2003 Management Information specialist reports The following charts are part of the management reports and give an indication of the distribution of membership and trading surpluses and the allocation of staff costs and overheads. Figures are rounded and the allocations for staff time (person year: PY) are based on best estimates. The charts provide an overview of the distribution of resources to the main development programmes.

1. Membership Services £’000 2. Trading Activities £’000 Income Insurance Scheme 338.8 Subscriptions 792.6 Guidebooks 7.0 Surplus on magazines 9.4 Publications 6.3 Videos 1.8 Expenditure RR Cards 1.2 Summit Magazine (101.9) Trading Ventures (Safety Products & Commission) 6.7 PA & CL Insurance (187.0) Net Income 361.8 Events 0.0 Allocation of Staff & Overheads (see 4) (275.4) Net Income 513.1 Available for Specialist Programmes 86.4 Allocation of Staff & Overheads (see 4) (181.3) Available for Specialist Programmes 331.8 5. Staff Costs and Overheads £’000 Expenditure Salaries & Personnel 507.0 3. Grants & Donations £’000 Office Costs 31.6 UK Sport 136.0 Communications 10.0 Sport England 65.0 Servicing and Repairs 11.5 Forwarded to MLTE (35.0) General Postage 53.6 Forwarded to MLTUK (28.5) Printing & Stationery 48.2 Office Sundry 3.7 Admin support (UK Sport) (18.5) Marketing & Publicity 90.9 Allocation to Specialist Programmes 119.0 IT 5.1 Other Finance & Consultancy 9.7 Jonathan Conville Trust 23.2 Bank & Credit Card Charges 32.0 UK Sport (UIAA) 15.5 Depreciation 41.3 Harrisons Rocks (Car Park) 4.6 VAT Adjustment 31.8 Mountain Training Trust 9.6 Corporation Tax 0.7 New Opportunities Fund (Youth) 35.3 Income Sundry Grants & Donations 1.5 Release of Grants (2.1) Interest & Royalties (7.6) 89.7 Net Costs (see 4) 867.4

4. How staff and overhead costs are spread PY Staff % Alloc % £’000 Membership services 3.0 14% 21% 181.3 (see 1) Trading activities 3.8 17% 32% 275.4 (see 2) Headquarters 6.3 28% 0% 0.0 External Recovery 1.2 5% 8% 67.9 Specialist Programmes 7.9 36% 40% 342.8 Total 22.2 100% 100% 867.4 (see 5)

Total Expenditure on Specialist Program m es 2003 (£627.4k) Net Cost of Specialist Program m es 2003 (£341.7k)

National & Access & International Conservation National & Access & representation 16% International 15% Conservation representation Facilities (Walls, 24% 23% Harrison's & Huts) 8% Youth & Equity 12% Facilities (Walls, Heritage Youth & Equity Harrison's & Huts) 2% Technical 5% 3% 3% Guidebooks Technical 6% 2% Heritage Safety & Training Safety & Training 4% 14% Competitions 13% Guidebooks Performance 13% 12% 2% Expeditions Expeditions 9% 3% Competitions 11%

BMC Annual Report 2003 7 Access & Conservation Improving access, conserving the cliff and mountain environment. The Access and Conservation Executive cess to land which has been mapped as ac- including rock-climbing, scrambling, gorge- Group (ACEG) has continued to guide the cess land, it will not affect or detract from walking and canoeing were arranged, includ- BMC’s access and conservation work existing freedoms. On land that has not been ing an joint event with an inner-city Man- programme and has continued to focus on mapped as access land climbers, hill walk- chester school, and the youngsters out in three main themes during 2003: ers and mountaineers should continue to en- the outdoors even attracted local television • Improving access to hills, mountains and joy access as they have done before. coverage. cliffs for those who wish to enjoy the The BMC continues to be represented Overall, the Initiative has demonstrated freedoms they offer. on the National Countryside Access Fo- widespread enthusiasm and has helped en- • Conserving these environments, their rum (NCAF) for England and the National sure that climbers, mountaineers and hill- habitats and the wildlife they support for Access Forum for Wales (NAFW). Mem- walkers receive a warmer welcome when future generations. bership of these forums allows the BMC they visit Langdale. • Promoting a wider understanding of the to exert influence at both departmental and social, economic and environmental inter- ministerial level and to work closely with a Regional Access Issues ests of the rural communities which climb- wide range of countryside and wildlife or- 2003 has once more been a busy year for ers, hill walkers and mountaineers visit. ganisations. all those involved in BMC access and con- The access and conservation programme servation work. Many areas were covered continues to be regarded by the BMC Access Legislation - Land Reform by different stages of the mapping of open membership as the most important work (Scotland) Act country for the CRoW Act, again volunteers specialist reports undertaken by the Council. The programme The Land Reform (Scotland) Act com- spent much time and effort commenting on is supported by two full-time officers, the pleted its progress through the Scottish the maps. In the Lake District, exploration ACEG and thirty regional access volunteers Parliament early in 2003. It is likely that of a new crag has caused concern over dis- and many others who contribute specialist the statutory access provisions will come turbance to England’s only pair of Golden knowledge of access and conservation issues. into effect in November 2004, this will be Eagles. In Range West, Pembrokeshire, year accompanied by a revised Access Code and round access has almost been secured, with Access Legislation - Countryside and a wide ranging education programme. specific climbing restrictions for birds rather Rights of Way (CRoW) Act 2000 Throughout the progress of the Act, a land- than the current blanket ban in spring and As in the previous year much of the work mark piece of legislation that is significantly early summer. Ring Ouzels, Raven ringing on the CRoW Act has been directed to- more equitable than the CRoW Act, the and railways have been the issues in the Peak, wards monitoring the mapping process and BMC actively supported the Mountain- and in the SE work has opened up a sand- responding to consultations. eering Council of Scotland. stone crag. Special thanks to all those volun- A close watch has been kept on the map- teers who have helped out. ping process and representations made to Rural Development London and SE - The year started with the Countryside Agency (CA) and the Two of the BMC’s rural development the second phase of ground erosion work Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) in projects have become reality in 2003, gen- at Stone Farm Rocks, supported by the order to ensure cliff edges and isolated crags erating much positive interest and public- Access and Conservation Trust (ACT) - of interest to members are included on pro- ity. the erosion work is complete for the time visional maps. The Climbing Huts Information Project being. Sussex Wildlife Trust contacted the Following discussions with the Minister (CHIPs) has been completed and the packs, BMC in 2003 over concerns of damage for Rural Affairs, a formal meeting was ar- giving a wide range of information to help by climbing to Eridge Rocks, which they ranged in October to press for guidance to climbers, hillwalkers and mountaineers con- own. An onsite meeting and careful repre- clarify a restriction in the Act that means tribute to local economies in North Wales sentation, with help from the previous that the statutory access right does not ex- are in club huts and bunkhouses now. The warden, resulted in an agreement to moni- tend to a person who engages in any activ- packs cover eating/drinking, shopping, ac- tor the site and to provide more best prac- ity ‘organised or undertaken for any com- commodation, local attractions and much tice information – please take a carpet with mercial purpose’. With the support of the more in both English and Welsh languages. you if you are climbing at Eridge to pro- mountain training organisations, the BMC The Langdale Visitor Payback Initiative tect the top of the rock. Bad news came compiled a paper arguing that those activi- began in January 2003 with a public meet- when the owner of High Rocks insisted ties consistent with the purposes of the ing. This asked the local community how that climbing would only be allowed on CRoW Act should not be restricted. The the BMC could help climbers, hillwalkers the Rocks with 24hrs notice due to in- Minister has agreed to draw up a guidance and mountaineers contribute more to the area. creasing failure to pay, vandalism to the note clarifying the issue. Two strong strands resulted: fence and abusive language from climbers The ACEG received a paper from Dr The Closer Contact Project – it became to hotel staff and clients – the circum- Kevin Gray entitled ‘A Note on Traditional clear that there is need for closer contact stances did not put the BMC in a good Freedoms of Access’. This confirms the between visitors who stay at the huts in negotiating position, or climbers in a good restrictive and prohibitory nature of Eng- the valley and those providing retail goods light! If those who use High Rocks can lish law with regard to access and sets out and services. Six clubs with huts in Langdale show they are responsible, there may be the legal position with regard to access as a and all the local retailers are taking part in opportunity for review of the condition – licensee. The paper also confirms the im- the initiative. We have compiled informa- in 2004 you must phone 01892 515532, provements in access which the CRoW Act tion about the services available which will 24 hours before you wish to climb. The will confer and suggests that the present go to all those booking accommodation at year ended in a positive way with a mass Act may be a stage in the process towards the huts. volunteer effort to open up Bulls Hollow more equitable access. Those members who The Youth Involvement Project - there for climbing. Praise must go to Graham have expressed concerns that the Act will was general agreement at the meeting that Adcock for masterminding the project, restrict the freedoms they have been accus- there are surprisingly few opportunities for supported financially by the Climbers’ tomed to should be reassured that whilst local youngsters to go climbing, hill walk- Club and ACT, as well as many local vol- the Act will confer a statutory right of ac- ing or mountaineering. A range of activities unteers.

8 BMC Annual Report 2003 Access & Conservation specialist reports South West - Issues in 2003 focused on explains the importance of the site. Concern has to monitor the extent of any erosion as a the liability issues in relation to quarries, been expressed over bolts at Worlds’ End and result of climbers walking down has specifically at Holcombe where two mem- the landowner has requested a no bolting policy worked well. The Langdale area has been bers of the public died in accidents, and the in this limestone area. the focus of a rural development pilot quarry company increased their on-site Peak - Ring Ouzel’s, Raven Ringing and project for the BMC, mentioned above. A security. Change in ownership of Goblin Railways were the top three issues in the major issue this year has been the devel- Combe, arose in 2003, with a partnership Peak this year. The Peak District ‘Access opment of a climbing crag, which also hap- headed by the local council taking over the Team’ expanded to five key volunteers, as pens to be a favourite perch site of Eng- site for recreation and conservation. De- well as the many others who support their land’s only pair of Golden Eagles. The spite talking to the BMC about manage- work. The team is becoming increasingly RSPB, the BMC and others are working ment plans, no climbing signs appeared and proactive and has established great local links. together to discourage publicity of this site the BMC will be continuing to liaise with Through the Stanage Forum, the BMC has and to keep it a quiet crag with infrequent the council in 2004 to get them removed. In worked with the National Park Authority and visits. Cheddar Gorge, Martin Crocker is cham- others to help protect Ring Ouzels on Stanage Yorkshire and Humberside - York- pioning an innovative project to increase and is involved in interpretation of the site shire has had a relatively quiet year. With climbing potential and move towards in- monitoring. The dry spring led to moorland bolting issues on the limestone quickly creased summer access. Plans include veg- fires and the BMC helped publicise moor- sorted, there has been rejuvenation of ac- etation clearance and abseil stations to pro- land fire awareness and education. Peak reps tivity on the Limestone. Mytholm Quarry tect the rare plant Cheddar Pink and the helped ringing ravens and placing swift boxes has been condemned as unsafe by the road below from stonefall. The project is for Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. Over in Staf- council, but they are happy for climbing being supported financially by the BMC’s fordshire, all access arrangements were to continue. Calderdale Council have also ‘old’ Access Fund and the Climbers’ Club. checked for preparation of the BMC Staf- been busy at Woodhouse Scar, liaising with To find out more about the project or to fordshire guide. The Derby to Manchester climbers to organise tree felling and clear- volunteer your help, contact Martin at (Cheedale) railway project has got to Envi- ance to let more light and air onto the cliff. [email protected] ronmental Impact Assessment stage and the This process will continue in 2004, if you South Wales - Again the principle work BMC is making representations. The Buxton would like to volunteer, contact the BMC. has been in Pembrokeshire with local climb- MC, with support from ACT have been tree- The area organised a litter clear at ers and conservation/land management pro- thinning at Aldery Crag. Access rep Rick Gib- Almscliff, which was well attended de- fessionals working to move from blanket bon has carefully re-negotiated access to spite the rather gnarly conditions. climbing restrictions in spring and summer Standing Stones in the Chew Valley after North East - Focus in the NE has been on Range West to specific area restrictions. problems in the summer- check RAD for the on the CRoW Act and mapping open The hard work by many individuals over new arrangements. country, with fewer areas being included many years will come to fruition in 2004, North West - Hoghton Quarry was again than the BMC and area access teams had with access to the Range from mid-May. open for climbers for a limited period over Access & Conservation continued overleaf... See the BMC website for more details. the summer. Thanks go to Les Ainsworth, North Wales - The ‘Snowdonia Green who worked hard to negotiate the access and ACEG Key Initiative’ (the Park ‘n’ Ride Scheme), organised an on-site crag clean-up with about Chair Iain McMorrin was quiet in 2003, with moves at the end a dozen volunteers. Access to Craig-y- Members of the year to look at implementing an in- Longridge, is still threatened and discussions Barbara Jones Dewi Evans creased bus service and other positive as- with the new developers are slow. The BMC Clare Bond Dave Bishop pects of the plan. User group meetings are made representations to the Countryside Elfyn Jones Charles Gameson promised in 2004 to consult on proposals. Agency over errors in the mapping in 2003 Graham Lynch Ken Taylor Plans for a new Snowdonia Summit build- and they admitted a mistake for one climbing Mike Dales Tony Greaves ing are also underway, the proposed new site, but say there is nothing they can do! Tim Richardson Bill Renshaw Corresponding Members building will be less of an eyesore, but ex- Lake District - Arrangements for access Kevin Gray Alan Blackshaw pensive and funding sources are not clear. to Sergeant Crag Slab, were resolved after a Susan Francis-Gray Bob Lowe ACT helped fund a panel at Bird Rock which second bolt debate in Keswick. The decision

BMC Access Reps Peak Chatsworth, Derwent Valley & Please contact your local Access Rep or the BMC office Brassington - James Simpson 01629 826366 regarding any access queries. West Peak: Staffordshire - David Bishop 01270 841379 The North Midlands Cumbria Co-ordinator - Colyn Earnshaw 01539 437 166 Leicestershire - Brian Davis 01509 217773 Eden Valley - Ron Kenyon 01768 864728 West Midlands - Richard Law 01952 463207 Northern Lakes - Stephen Reid 017687 72227 The South & Andy Prickett 01900 824049 West Penwith - Steve Elliot 01209 715633 Northumberland - Bill Renshaw 01434 603052 North Devon - Rick Abbott 01271 814716 North Lancashire - Les Ainsworth 01539 536678 South Devon - Brian Dent 01364 73274 South Lancashire - Carl Spencer 01257 260791 Avon & Cheddar - John Baker 01761 462267 Cheshire - Gary Smith 0161 429 0525 Wye Valley - John Willson 01291 625433 Durham & N. Yorks. Moors - Peter Hay 01325 469958 Portland - Neal Heanes 01305 826299 Yorkshire Gritstone - Robin Costello 01943 464431 Swanage - Steve Taylor 01929 550193 Yorkshire Limestone - Dave Musgrove* 01132611778 Southern Sandstone - Graham West 07870 219429 Peak Co-ordinator (+ Limestone Wales & Stanage) - Henry Folkard 01298 871849 Clwyd Limestone - Gary Dickinson 01244 373945 N Peak & Chew Valley - Rick Gibbon 01457 876180 Pembroke - Dee de Mengel 01437 891365 E Peak Moors & Buxton (+Matlock South East Wales - John Custance 02920 594398 Railway Project)- Bunny McCullough 01433630293 Gower - Steve Lewis 01654 767445 * temporary contact

BMC Annual Report 2003 9 Access & Conservation continued... Houghton graveyard and Howns Gill. individuals have also secured places on hoped. Ongoing liaison and discussion Midlands - Work in the Midlands area local access forums and commented on with the Countryside Agency is continu- has once more concentrated on Markfield CRoW Act maps. ing over several sites including Crag Lough Quarry, where local volunteers have been and Peel Crag. Liability and site manage- working to keep the site clear of vegetation ment has also been crucial in the NE, with and in good condition. A formal manage- negotiations continuing over access to ment agreement with the council has yet to Kepier Wood in County Durham, be developed. Local representatives and The Access & Conservation Trust The Access & Conservation Trust (ACT) is a charity that brings together the BMC, MCofS and MCI to fund projects to improve access and protect the cliff and mountain environment for climbers, hill-walkers and mountaineers. The BMC provides administrative support for the Trust, and each mountaineering council has a representative on the board of trustees. In 2003 the Trust received donations to- low restoration project, research into the following for their donations this year: The talling almost £17,000, slightly down on implications of the draft Scottish Outdoor Climbers’ Club, the Association of British 2002, reflecting the loss of two major cor- Access Code which informed the response Climbing Walls, BMC Guidebooks, Cleve- porate supporters that was not quite made of the BMC and MCofS and rock repair land Mountaineering Club, Rockfax, the Cas- up by a strong increase in individuals buy- tle Climbing Centre, Yorkshire Mountaineer- specialist reports work on southern sandstone. In the au- ing in to the ACT ideals. tumn the first suite of projects in Ireland ing Club, the Lakeland Climbing Centre, John A good range of projects have been made were agreed and these are due to go onstream and Kate Penrose, Valerie Booth, Malcolm possible by this money. The two major as the weather improves this spring. MacLeod, Simon Buttars and our partners in rural development initiatives described in On the publicity front, the key advance the rural development projects – Adfywio, more detail in the access committee report was the ACT website going live – see Wales Tourist Board, Countryside Council are flagships among these. In addition, 2003 www.accesstrust.org.uk. Appearances in for Wales, The National Trust on CHIPs, and ventures included – printing the 2003 Ac- Summit, the Scottish Mountaineer, TGO, Lake District National Park Authority, Cum- cess Focus & Seasonal Restrictions leaflet, on Border TV and at the Outdoors Show bria Youth Alliance, Countryside Agency on which is vital as ever, placing a belay boul- have also helped to spread the message. the Lake District Visitor Payback Initiative. der at Poth-y-Fynnon, botany training for None of this would be possible without our Many thanks also go to the many individuals a local access representative, the Bulls Hol- supporters, so ACT would like to thank the who have given so generously. Harrison’s Rocks Management Group HRMG meets three times a year, instructors are responsible for their own for the last 3 years, and we wish her well and holds an annual Sandstone safety or the safety of their groups while in her new job. Open meeting in conjunction climbing, and we have posted advice about Although not part of HRMG’s remit, with the London & South East ways of getting off the three isolated mention must be made of the work at Area Committee. blocks at Harrison’s. Various matters are Bull’s Hollow. Following the Sandstone still outstanding from Sport England’s re- Open Meeting in May, extensive tree-cut- Maintenance of the ground erosion work port on Health & Safety at the Rocks, and ting and clearance work was carried out to and woodland management has continued these will be pursued in 2004. open up this overgrown and previously throughout the year. Once again, our Sport England have informed us that they damp crag. Professional work was pro- thanks go to Croydon Mountaineering are undertaking a major review of all of vided free of charge by the arboriculturist Club for their work in laying wood chippings the activities that they fund, but at the firm Down to Earth, with a large number below the Isolated Buttress and the Vice time of writing we have not been informed of local climbers doing general clearance areas. of the outcome. Nevertheless, we are very work and providing support teams to the Together with local residents we have grateful to Sport England for funding the tree surgeons. The work was done in the been fighting Spa Valley Railway’s at- first (and major) phase of the car-park re- autumn with only one day of follow-up tempts to get planning permission for a surfacing during the year. work remaining. The crag is now com- halt and picnic area below the Rocks, firstly At Stone Farm, the next phase of the pletely transformed and full credit to at the planning application stage (when ground erosion work was carried out in Graham Adcock for organising the work the application was rejected by the local February (funded by ACT). Most of the and getting it done so quickly. Council), and subsequently at the appeal work was on the erosion at the top of the HRMG stage. The appeal is due to be heard within Rocks, which had left a network of tree Chair Bob Moulton the next few months. We have taken this roots exposed, and the results seem to have Deputy Chair John Galloway been very successful. Graham West, who Secretary Clare Bond line as we feel that the proposed develop- Members has now taken over lead responsibility for ment will spoil the tranquil and beautiful Sarah Cullen Tim Skinner setting of the Rocks without improving Stone Farm from John Galloway, has writ- Geoff Pearson transport in the area. We are also con- ten a Management Plan for the Rocks. Co-opted Members cerned as to the long-term likelihood of Personnel: we welcome Graham West Tim Daniels Nigel Head increased foot traffic at the Rocks. and Cllr Lynda Myers as co-opted mem- Graham West Following the accident at the Rocks in bers of HRMG. Our thanks are due to Cllr Lynda Myers (Wealden DC) June 2002 and the resultant Health & Cllr Charles Wilkinson, who stood down Sylvia Sutton (Local resident) Chris Tullis (Soft Rock) Safety investigation, we have concluded from Wealden DC last May. Finally we George Akins (Sport England) would like to record our appreciation for the discussions with Wealden DC. They Richard Hayden (Kent CC) have endorsed our view that climbers or Clare Bond’s work as secretary to HRMG

10 BMC Annual Report 2003 Competitions The BMC provides a wide range of support to competition climbing events of all standards through the specialist reports Competition Committee, the Competitions Officer and a large network of volunteers, sponsors and venues. This has been a good year for both diffi- competitors and volunteer helpers alike. Competition Team List culty and bouldering teams. The best re- We have also held Team training events Junior Team and Squad sults were the first ever victory in a Euro- around the country and this systematic Jemma Powell Hazel Duff pean Youth Cup (EYC) round and a 2nd approach to training is starting to reap Rosemary Shaw Leah Crane and 4th place in the overall EYC rankings. benefits as illustrated above. We have also Katy Whittaker Hazel Findlay In fact the Junior Team had an 87.5% held a National Judges Course and a Na- Cal Reedie Richard Winters Tom Arnold Katie Hill qualifications rate for EYC finals and two tional Route Setters Course. Tom Bolger Peter Whittaker finalists in the World Youth Champion- The teams and events have been sup- Emma Twyford Christopher Whiteman ships. The senior teams were also ported by a group of volunteer managers, Ian Hollows Adam Mulholland successful. The bouldering team members judges, belayers, coaches and chaperones. Jeffery Landman Stewart Watson had 6 finalists and achieved 18th and 19th Thanks must go to them for their dedi- Jamie Cassidy Tyler Landmann in the World Cup rankings and 10th in the cated work throughout the year. Also Martin Watson Natalie Berry World Championship rankings. The thanks must go to the climbing walls that Liam Desroy Lucy Turner senior difficulty team achieved a 9th place have hosted events and provided facilities Ben West Joanna Stadden th Sophie Varley Charlotte Davies (female) and 15 (male) in the round of for training. Sponsorship arrangements Samantha Harker Joe Wilson the World Cup held at Ratho. All team have been made with Sprayway, The Aline Kirkland members are to be congratulated for the North Face, Bentleys Chartered Account- Bouldering Team & Squad dedication and professionalism that they ants and Troll. Malcolm Smith Gareth Parry have demonstrated throughout the year. The organisation of the domestic events Andy Earl Martin Smith Domestically we have successfully held and the trips to the international events Tom Sugden Stewart Watson both the BICC and BBC events at climb- went very smoothly and thanks must go Miles Gibson Ben Moon ing walls around the country. Both events to Graeme Alderson and his support staff Jo Gordon Alison Martindale were very well attended and enjoyed by at the BMC offices. Sadie Renwick Lucinda Hughes Sian Oakley Rachel Seymour Support Crew Roy Mosley Mark Croxall Chris Graham Nick Clement Junior Team Manager - Justin Bolger Coach - Lucinda Hughes Gary Vincent Jamie Cassidy Assistant Junior Team Manager - Jill Whitaker Coach - Anne Arran Phil Stubbins Assistant Junior Team Manager - Tony Powell Information Officer - Lee Jones Assistant Team Manager & Coach - Andy Long Physiotherapist - Alison MacFarlane Katherine Schirrmacher Head Coach - Dave Binney Nutritionist - Jo Farington Difficulty Team & Squad Coach - Neil Gresham Bouldering Team Coach - Gareth Parry Steve McClure Lucy Creamer Coach - Andrew Earl Bouldering Team Manager - Mike Lea Adrian Baxter Competitions Committee Chair Mike Watson YAP Rep (vacant) Team Managers: Vice Chair Gareth Parry HPSG Rep Dave Binney Bouldering Mike Lea Programme Manager Graeme Alderson Parental Rep Tony Powell Difficulty Dave Binney Executive Rep Alex Lawrence Jill Whittaker Junior Justin Bolger Events John Arran Legal Advisor Ian Alderson Competitors Reps: Lucy Creamer (tbc) Paper Members: Kevin Howett Alison Martindale Ian Smith

mandatory rate relief of 80% for clubs with Hut Seminar to be held at Plas y Brenin on Huts huts registered as Community Amateur 2nd October 2004. Topics may include: Sports Clubs (CASCs) with the Inland building and planning regulations update, The Hut Co-ordination and Revenue, grants for improvements to huts energy efficiency, hut management and Advisory Panel (HCAP) co- and amendments to club constitutions re- maintenance plans, changes in the law ordinates the BMC’s support for garding the distribution of assets on disso- affecting hut operations, schemes for in- huts where the BMC has a direct lution. creasing visitor numbers to huts. interest and offers guidance where The electronic late availability booking There have been several Panel member- it is sought by clubs and users. scheme which came online in 2002 has been ship changes – Craig Harwood has resigned HCAP met on two occasions in 2003 to little used. This is disappointing. It seems and Ian Fenton has been replaced by discuss current issues and to review mat- that hut booking secretaries are very Graham Lynch. Thanks are due to Craig ters relating to the Don Whillans Hut (for reluctant to use the scheme. However, the Harwood for all his hard work as a member which the BMC holds the lease) and the Climbing Huts Information Project (Chips) on the Panel and in particular for his valuable Alex MacIntyre (AMMH) and Glen Brit- is now well in hand and the information contributions to the three BMC hut tle Huts (GBMH) (both jointly held in trust packs should be available for distribution seminars. early in 2004. with the MCofS). The Panel liaised with HCAP the MCofS’s Huts Working Group on vari- Meetings of the Don Whillans and the Chair Iain McCallum ous matters of common interest, e.g. hut AMMH Hut Committees have been at- Secretary/BMC Officer insurance. tended by the Panel’s Chair. A draft agree- Graham Lynch During the year the Panel dealt with a ment covering the management, maintenance Members wide range of matters, many of them raised and operation of the AMMH hut has been Gordon Adshead Dave Ellis Tony Heneghan Ken Jackson by clubs. These included the treatment of prepared and submitted to the trustees (BMC/MCofS) for their consideration. Dave Roberts Dave Bishop huts as “houses in multiple occupation” John Leftley (HMOs) under the Housing Act 1985, Currently the Panel is planning the fourth

BMC Annual Report 2003 11 Youth Support and advice for a new generation. The BMC’s youth programme does volvement of young participants from duce an excellent edition in-house for not promote participation in climbing, a broad range of social and cultural all their youth members towards the hill walking or mountaineering but aims backgrounds. end of the year. to assist those young people who are Great strides have been made in youth interested or already active in these ac- development in 2003, despite severe re- URBAN ROCK BRYCS ’03 tivities to become responsible partici- strictions imposed by funding difficul- The sixth year of the national youth pants and overcome barriers that can ties. In particular, this has meant that competition was bigger and better than prevent them from taking part. Youth the youth programme was without spe- ever, with over 750 participants nation- participation in the sport continues to cialist officer support for a substantial ally climbing in 10 regional heats se- grow particularly through opportuni- period. However, with significant input ries. These culminated in a fantastic fi- ties available to young people at indoor from volunteers and assistance from other nal at the Welsh International Climbing climbing walls and also outdoor activ- BMC staff and Elected Officers much has Centre in September, and thanks must ity centres. Whilst more young people been achieved. go to DMM, Troll, HB Climbing Equip- are enjoying climbing and mountain ac- ment, Lyon Equipment and High Places tivities, the opportunities for young Policy and Planning who sponsored the competition. This people to go climbing or hill walking The BMC, as a responsible organisa- series would not happen without the independently are often limited. The tion, has continued to develop and up- fantastic support of many youth vol- unteers and the hard-working Area specialist reports danger inherent in the activity is an at- date its Child Protection Policy and pro- traction to young people, the control cedures. Guidance notes for indoor and Youth Co-ordinators, and unflinching of which can be important to develop- outdoor meets have continued to be up- co-operation from climbing wall man- ing life skills. These real risks and as- dated. agers. sociated liability and supervision of A working group has considered the rec- minors concerns can restrict the provi- ommendations for the wearing of helmets Youth Advisory Panel sion and availability of courses, mem- on indoor walls and the implications bership of clubs and the willingness of thereof. Chair John Shaw adults to become involved in helping Vice Chair Tony Powell Members young participants. The BMC is con- Youth Meets Anne Arran John Bevan tinuing to develop a programme to help Funding difficulties have dictated the Russell Flynn Steven Garbutt overcome these obstacles, and give necessity for a reduced programme this Mandy Homer Jeff Hope practical advice to those interested in year. A successful meet was organised Kevin Howett John Innerdale helping young people to learn the sport jointly between the BMC and the Fell Neil Johnson John Kennedy in a responsible manner so that young and Rock Climbing Club and was well Jane Newman Andy Perkins participants not only become aware of attended. Approximately 18 young peo- Chris Simpkins Rory Sellar the risks and how to minimise them, ple enjoyed a very active outdoor week- Louise Thomas Geoff Turner Chris Wareing but are also able to acquire climbing, end climbing. Area Youth Co-ordinators hill walking and mountaineering skills Justin Bolger Aaron Cox that will enable them to enjoy a healthy gripped? Linda Jensen Neil Morris active sport for life. The BMC is com- This Youth magazine has unfortunately Rob Naylor Paul Smith mitted to an equal opportunities policy suffered from lack of funding but the Diane Staniforth and is actively encouraging equal in- BMC were able to economise and pro-

Guidebook Steering Committee

Guidebooks Chair Michael Hunt The Guidebook Committee Niall Grimes Richard Wheeldon produces a definitive set of Dave Turnbull John Horscroft guidebooks for the Peak District and also assists other groups to Climbing guide to the majority of the lime- publish guidebooks. stone quarries in the Peak. The manu- script for this has been prepared and do- Michael Hunt (the current Peak Area nated to the BMC by Gary Gibson. Chair) took over as Chair of the Guide- Thanks Gary. book Committee from Richard Wheeldon. A major departure to the printed guides Thanks to Richard for all his efforts over is the development of a definitive “on- the past couple of years. line” database of Peak and Lancashire On Peak Rock and Staffordshire guides climbs. The Guidebook Committee will were re-printed early in 2003 to keep these be working hard to have this steadily com- popular definitive guides available. Both ing on line in the second half of 2004, pre- were either updated or amended on the Lisa Rands, Hen Cloud. Credit: Messenger. serving a definitive record when paper previous versions. Thanks are particu- copies are out of print. larly due here to the help given by Ken of guides ready which will be unveiled Hopefully during 2004, the new Shef- Wilson. Niall Grimes (our Guidebook with the publication of the new Stafford- field Area guide will be completed. Thanks Officer) has been occupied developing a shire guide in May 2004. are due to all the volunteers that are work- template with Vertebrate Graphics. He Along with the new Staffordshire guide, ing on the various guides. now has the template for the next series 2004 will see the publication of a Sport

12 BMC Annual Report 2003 International specialist reports International representation, information, advice and expedition support. The International Committee provides Chinese Sichuan. The year proved very Commission, together with local agencies logistical and financial support, informa- successful for British parties, which in Pakistan, have for long lobbied for more tion and guidance for British mountaineers achieved a wide variety of internationally freedom of access to lower altitude peaks travelling overseas, and strives to protect significant first ascents. in the Karakoram. With a decline in the interests and freedom of all mountain- Notable amongst these were the first tourism and the Golden Jubilee of the first eers at an international level. ascent of the South West Ridge of ascent of Nanga Parbat (2003) and K2 Annapurna III in Nepal, the first ascent (2004), the Pakistan Government agreed to Highlights of 2003 of a hard new ice route on the Citadel in raise the height of ‘trekking peaks’ to • Grant aid and support to 29 British Alaska’s remote Kichatna Spires, 6,500m and reduce royalties for peaks above overseas expeditions possibly the hardest major rock route yet this height by 50%. The Commission • Representation on and work with the climbed in Greenland, the first ascent of continues to produce an annual list of first UIAA Expedition Commission China’s Mt Grosvenor, the first ascent ascents in the Greater Ranges and has also • Liaison with the Mount Everest Foun- of a major all free route on the huge been regularly updating its information on dation on grant and policy matters formation of Acopan in the Venezuelan fees, regulations etc. These are currently • Liaison with the Sports Council for jungle, a big and bold new route on Alaska’s displayed on the UIAA website. Wales and Mountaineering Council of Mt McKinley, and an even bolder new route Work has begun sorting through the ar- Scotland on Overseas Expeditions Awards on the South East Face of Jirishanca. chives of the late Yossi Brain, who wrote • Organisation of the annual MEF/BMC Although the latter finished just shy of the climbing and trekking guidebooks to both expedition lectures at the Kendal Film summit it was the most significant ascent Bolivia and Ecuador. It is hoped to build a Festival. by British climbers in the Peruvian digital record of photographs and informa- • Supporting a South African (MCSA) Cordillera for almost 20 years. tion, which could be accessed through the Trekking and Climbing Exchange The International Committee works BMC by prospective visitors to the moun- • Arranging representation on other over- closely with the Mount Everest Founda- tains of these two South American countries. seas international meets tion in administering awards and has two • Providing a national voice on matters representatives on both the Screening and BMC International Grant Awards of international importance Management Committees of the MEF. It for 2003 • Preparation for an international rock also has a representative on the Sports British Aguilera 1,600 climbing meet in 2004 Council for Wales’s Overseas Expedition North East Tokositna 1,500 • Initiating the organization of a Yossi Panel and liaises with the Mountaineering Maestri-Egger 2,600 Brain archive Council of Scotland on the administration British Kyrgyz-Kuilu 1,600 South Georgia 2,800 of their expedition grants. The criteria for International Woman’s Cerro Torre 600 Grant Support for British Expeditions BMC support, while not identical to those Scottish Mountaineering Club May-June of last year proved a trying of the MEF, still favour small teams climb- Greenland (+MCofS 600) 700 time as UK Sport discussed future priority ing in good style and attempting innovative Annapurna III SW Ridge 2,900 support for Olympic sports, following and adventurous ascents in the World’s Wales Greenland App +SCW London’s bid to hold the 2012 Olympic Greater Ranges. Virgin Summits – Tibet 2,600 Games. In May the BMC was told to be For 2004, in an attempt to make the grant Knud Rasmussen Land App prepared for a possible withdrawal of all procedure more flexible in line with the Southern Kangerdlugssuaq 1,600 Torssukatak Spires 1,100 UK Sport’s annual contribution to the BMC changing nature of climbing in the Greater Central Alaska Range 2,300 budget. This includes the dedicated allow- Ranges, the Committee has made changes Jirishanca Rematch 2,000 ance for supporting British climbers over- to the current deadlines for completed ap- Tepui 1,100 seas, without which a number of high pro- plication forms. Applicants who feel they Puscanturpa Norte 2,200 file British mountaineering expeditions cannot meet the normal MEF deadlines will Prins Christian Sund 1,600 would simply not happen. A considerable now be able to submit completed forms up Eagle Ski Club Ak Shirak App amount of work was put into producing a to the beginning of November, or the begin- Teng Kang Poche 2,600 paper, which outlined the significant na- ning of March, for consideration by the Midnight Sun 1,100 Scottish SE Greenland App tional participation in the broad activity of Committee, which meets later in those Kichatna 700 + SCW mountaineering and UK excellence in its months. Qomo Lhari/Grosvenor 2,600 various disciplines. With this information Mount Vancouver 1,300 Council members met again in July and de- International Seminars and Meets Foraker 1,400 cided to maintain full exchequer funding for Due in part to financial restraints, it Mount Grosvenor 2,900 2004. Unfortunately, further announce- was a quiet year for participation in Scottish Lemon Mountains 800 ments in November from both UK Sport foreign events. However, March saw a (+MCofS 300) and Sport England brought less than en- large contingent of British rock climbers Da Kangri 1,600 couraging news, making the main priority take part in an International Meet based for 2004 securing funding for 2005. at the Mountain Club of South Africa’s International Committee A total of nearly £44k was eventually hut at Du Toit’s Kloof in the Western Chair Lindsay Griffin awarded to expeditions taking place during Cape. Seven countries were represented, Vice Chair Dave Wilkinson 2003. This included a small contribution a wide variety of climbing was achieved Secretary Ian Hey towards expenses for the 10 climbers that and strong new friendships made. Members Paul Braithwaite Brian Hall took part in the South Africa Exchange. As The UIAA Expeditions Commission Alan Hinkes Nick Lewis in previous years grants and assistance were had a quiet year, concentrating on re- Andy Perkins Bill Ruthven (MEF) given to many expeditions visiting exciting defining its terms of reference and re- Ron Rutland Mike Turner corners of the World, from Alaska and the forming the Commission after several Kevin Howett and Dave Rowe (MC of S) Yukon to Patagonia, and from Venezuela to significant changes during 2002. The Cathy Woodhead

BMC Annual Report 2003 13 Technical The purpose of the Technical Committee is to provide an informed source of technical knowledge and advice on safety-related equipment and its use to climbers, hill-walkers and mountaineers. Equipment Investigation Panel Changes to the requirements for top-rope ably qualified volunteers to contribute to The panel oversees the analysis and re- bolts, and a specification for bolts for the work of the Technical Group, a number porting of equipment failures and incidents use in coastal environments were also of potential recruits have attended EIP submitted to the BMC for investigation, called for. New requirements for meetings in the second half of 2003. and this continues as the key area of ac- karabiners for use on via ferrata were However, the invitation remains; any pro- tivity within the Technical Group. The agreed, to reflect the abnormal loadings fessional engineers, polymer chemists, or EIP held five meetings in 2003, carried which can occur. The Round Robin tests other technologists with an interest in in- out 9 investigations and issued 3 reports. to ensure uniformity between rope test vestigating equipment failures are invited It is interesting that there have been two laboratories (now extended to include to contact Ian Hey (at the BMC Office) to cases of gate open failure with wiregate sharp-edge testing) continue. Studies also discuss possible involvement. krabs – it seems that wiregates are more continue on standards for belaying de- Next year will be a year of change, so it is prone to being opened by snagging on vices, and energy absorbing systems for a good time to join the group. Neville the rock surface than conventional gates. runners (shock tape). Work progresses McMillan who has been the Chair of the There has been no common theme to the on modifications and additions to the Technical Committee for the last 17 years incidents other than that climbers are existing standards for connectors, ice an- is standing down, and the new Chair has perhaps expecting more from their gear chors, helmets, and Energy Absorbing only agreed to a 12 month tenure. specialist reports than they can reasonably expect. Reports Systems for Via Ferrata. Technical Group on all incidents are available from the In October there was a meeting to re- Technical Committee BMC Office. view the research work being undertaken Neville McMillan Chair in Italy on belaying methods. Both the Ian Hey Secretary CEN Equipment Standards experimental work and the theoretical Trevor Hellen Independent There have been no changes to Euro- analyses are of a very high technical stand- Alan Huyton Independent pean CEN standards during 2003, but it ard, but the extent to which useful prac- George Steele Independent was agreed at a European meeting of tical results will emerge is not yet clear. Ben Lyon Trade TC136/WG5 to revise 10 of the existing Andy Perkins ABMEM Equipment Investigation Panel Technical Conference standards (minor revisions) to bring them Technical Committee members plus: up to date. In November a one day Technical Con- Rob Allen Independent ference was held in collaboration with Jane Blackford Independent UIAA Safety Commission Plas y Brenin on the subject of Modern Dave Brook Independent The UK is currently represented on the Climbing Gear. Practical sessions on de- Vin Machin Independent UIAA Safety Commission by the Chair tection of cracks in ice climbing gear, rope Oliver Milling Independent of the Technical Committee, who is also performance, and misuse of gear were Mark Taylor Independent the Vice President of the Commission. At included. Over 50 delegates attended, in- Richard Terrell Independent Hugh Banner Trade the Plenary Meeting, held in Canmore, cluding representatives of student clubs, Fred Hall Trade Canada, in June, there was much useful retailers, instructors, mountain rescue Dick Peart BMG discussion of necessary changes to stand- teams, and individual technically-minded Steve Long Plas y Brenin ards. A Working Group of trade members climbers. Neil Johnson Plas y Brenin was asked to review the Ice Tool standard Petra Ernst Paper Member to reflect current usage, and to eliminate Future Technical Support Nick Williams Paper Member the confusion over B and T categories. In response to the invitation to suit- Roger Wilde (MCofS) Paper Member Climbing Walls The Climbing Wall Committee (CWC) incorporates the Climbing Wall Advisory Group (CWAG), and meets three times each year. Through a network of regional representatives and development strategies, the Committee offers advice and support for the sensitive management and sustainable development of new and existing facilities. An open Climbing Wall debate was held ing walls all donated to ACT: The at the Annual Gathering, the debate was Lakeland Climbing Centre (aka The very well attended and focussed on issues Kendal Wall), the Leeds Wall, the Castle relating to litigation and the threat of insur- Climbing Centre & the ABC. The BMC ance premium rises for climbing walls. & the Committee would like to thank The ongoing issue of obtaining accident these walls for their contributions. statistics moved closure to fruition with the BMC receiving a grant of £2000 from Climbing Wall Committee the ABC (Association of British Climb- Nicholas Bond Chair Christopher Parkin ing Walls). The ABC also provided fund- Gary Lewis Wales Nick Wharton ing for the development of a new Climb- Peter Dyson North East Ian Dunn Roy Court London & South East Mike Smith ing Wall Registration Form. Alec Williams Wales Graeme Alderson Secretary Whilst not strictly being part of the Steve Gille North West Steve Richardson Committee’s work programme the Com- Angela Benham Midlands Mike Simpkins Wales mittee are glad to report that the follow- Steve Taylor South West Alan Sanderson Peak

14 BMC Annual Report 2003 Safety & Training The Training Advisory Group (TAG) provides guidance for safe training and good practice. specialist reports TAG is responsible primarily for those Denney took over as Chair and provided to sit alongside the other training publications aspects of training that do not directly re- strength to the Committee as an independ- on climbing and mountaineering. late to group leader and instructor qualifi- ent with no strong links to the Training Support for Clubs - The ninth annual cations, though it liaises closely with the world. Unfortunately for the Committee Safety and Good Practice Seminar was held MLTE and MLTUK who administer these she left for New Zealand at the end of 2003 at Plas-y-Brenin in October and ran at full awards. to pursue further education. At the time of capacity. Support came from Plas-y- 2003 saw Jonathan White step down as writing a full time replacement has yet to Brenin, Association of Mountaineering In- Chair after 5 years of extremely hard work. be found. structors, the Student Activities Safety During this period there had been many issues As ever TAG has been supported on in- Association and a large number of volun- relating to Student Clubs and focus on this dividual projects by dozens of other volun- teers. area resulted in the Safety and Good Practice teers, without whom our work programme Work is underway to update the Club Seminar become even more successful. Miriam would be greatly diminished. Guidance Notes, enabling all clubs to ben- Lecture Programme - Attendances were efit from the seminar proceedings. TAG Miriam Denny Chair up this year for both the Alpine and Winter Support for Qualifications - Close con- John Mason Deputy Chair Lecture Series. This was in part due to the tact was maintained with the Mountain Ian Hey Secretary continued partnerships with Lowe Alpine and Leader Training Boards with John Mason Members Sprayway, support from BUSA and MTT as representative on the MLTUK, and Ian John Cousins Paul Debney and the commitment of all the lecturers - Andy Hey, John Mason and Dave Turnbull at- Howard Jeffs Mike Margeson Perkins, Helen Teasdale, Libby Peter and Rich tending MLTE meetings. Iain McBurnie Andy Newton Cross. Under the EU Directive on Work at Andy Say Louise Thomas Support for Individuals - Courses were Height, the HSC sought to apply rigid in- Dave Turnbull Jonathan White Mal Creasey again provided in conjunction with the dustrial procedures to all those working in Paper Members Jonathan Conville Memorial Trust, providing outdoor pursuits. TAG, the Training Boards Anne Arran Dave Binney over 200 young mountaineers with subsidised and everyone in the Adventure Activities Lindsay Griffin Peter O’Neill training in Britain and the Alps. Industry worked tirelessly to fight these John Shaw Roger Wild A New Hillwalkers booklet was produced proposed regulations.

coaches based at climbing walls. High Performance • Workshop modules that enable instruc- tors to specialise and attain Elite Coach level Supporting excellence in climbing and mountaineering. within their field of interest in non-compe- The High Performance Steering Group acts as games/exercises and examples of climbing tition climbing e.g. Rock climbing disci- an advisory body providing expertise to rel- games. Parental awareness and the applica- plines, ice climbing, high altitude mountain- evant BMC Committees. We also liaise with tion of reflective practices. Identification of eering. other federations both within the UK and FUNdamental climbing movement skills and • An Elite Coach qualification and educa- abroad on strategies to raise the level of per- their development. tional support framework for competition formance in climbing and mountaineering. The Other published work includes - climbing. Framework and modules aim to committee deals with coaching, training, in- • Binney DM. Key to Success: meet targets set down in the UKS Excel- jury prevention, rehabilitation, medical issues FUNdamental Stage of Long Term Athlete lence programmes. and research. HPSG began its work in late Development in rock climbing Sports Medicine - Retrospective re- Spring of 2000. In order to better facilitate • Binney DM, Rolf CG. Blood lactate re- search study Injury patterns in young cross committee communication the chair at- sponse to forearm specific exercise in rock climbers. British Team – Establishment tends YAP, COMPS and TAG regularly. climbers of a Medical Referral Scheme through Shef- Areas of activity - Work with other com- • Binney DM.When to start: An presenta- field Centre of Sports Medicine for ‘Elite’ mittees to disseminate information to novice, tion of normative data of international teams Seniors and Junior team members. intermediate and elite climbers. Identify target Training courses run and contributions Sports Science - Work to establish valid areas for research across the spectrum of high to events - Seven MLTE recognised work- physiological testing protocols to monitor ef- performance from competition climbing to high shops on the FUNdamental of movement in fectiveness of training. Continued development altitude mountaineering. To deliver and facili- climbing. of optimum programmes for elite level junior tate elite coach education. To run events, make Contributions to Junior & Senior Team train- & senior climbers. guidelines & produce other publications based ing sessions, Dr Julia Bodle, Dave Binney, on research that will raise the level of per- Anne Arran, Alison MacFarlane & Neil HPSG List formance. To liaise with & learn from other Gresham. Chair Dave Binney relevant sports in the construction of training Conferences attended: International Sym- Secretary Graeme Alderson programmes & principles. posium Escalade de Competition Jeunes, Members Information produced in 2003 - Further Marseille, April 2003. Anne Arran Pete Barras development of the course material for the SportScotland Strength & Conditioning 03 Steve Bollen Charles Clarke FUNdamentals of ClimbingWorkshops: In- Conference, Largs Scotland May 2003. Dominic Dorran Tim Emmett Jo Farrington Chris Forrest cluding an overview of long term athlete devel- Current Projects & Events Stan Grant Neil Gresham opment, outlining the stages of climbing de- Coaching - On going coaching programme Lew Hardy Guido Köstermeyer velopment, trainability vs adaptability in child- to increase quality of performance services for Jim Milledge Ian Parnell hood, overall physical, cognitive and emotional identified athletes in non-competition moun- Martin Rodes Alun Richardson development, critical/sensitive periods of taineering disciplines & competition climbing. Gordon Turner Ian Vickers growth and the current thought on youth re- Recognition of need to develop the following: Tony Westbury Mike Rosser sistance training. Warming-up, floor and wall • A regional network of high performance Alison MacFarlane

BMC Annual Report 2003 15 Lake District by David Staton Members have been active in their support on the two CRoW Local Access Forums in on the future of the BMC as part of the Re- of the Cumbria Bouldering League, the Youth our area. view agreed by the Management Committee Meet held in July and two Open Debates on Flexibility to the process of implementing in June. The debate was held at the Kendal fixed gear, despite the unpopularity of meet- bird restrictions was extended this year to most Film Festival in November. Whilst attend- ings. In addition officers have represented the locations. This was very much appreciated ance was disappointing some useful dis- Area at various meetings on matters of conser- and seems to have worked well. For the first cussion was held. vation and access. At the start of the year two time for many years there was no ban on Heron Lake District Area Notes Fixed Gear debates were held in Keswick to Crag, Eskdale. Through the Mountain Liaison Five meetings, average attendance of 9 decide what action to take over one of the tree Committee we were pleased to add our en- abseil stations at Sergeant Slab Crags. Whilst dorsement to an initiative of the FRCC to Chair David Staton there was unanimous agreement to remove include advice to climbers on the protection of Secretary Chris Cant the tree in the light of a report by the National Class one birds in their new Selective Guide to Management Representatives Trust as to its condition, opinion was divided David Staton Chris Cant the Lakes. A representative of the RSPB at- Access Representatives as to whether the station should be re-installed tended our meeting in June to express concern Locality Access Officers: Chair-Colyn

area reports using bolts. The first meeting was in favour over the development of a remote crag in the Earnshaw, South Lakes-Jim Loxham and the second against. As a compromise it Eastern Fells. In September the climber con- North Lakes-Andy Prickett and Stephen was agreed to remove the abseil station and to cerned attended our meeting and it was agreed Reid, Eden Valley-Ron Kenyon Climbing Wall Rep monitor the situation for 12 months. Two that given the importance of the issue that the Kate Phillips Youth Ron Kenyon meetings were held at Rheged to prepare com- matter be referred to the Mountain Liaison ments on the draft maps for our area re the Committee for resolution. As a result access Members 2002 2003 CRoW Act. Only one of our submissions was has been maintained, though we have agreed No of clubs 9 8 successful. We did not succeed in our applica- to issue precautionary advice to the climber Club members 629 549 905 tion to have the base of Whitbarrow Scar or concerned, to be published with any article or Individual members 953 National club share 319 289 the top of White Scar designated as Access guidebook that may follow. Total area members 1910 1743 Land. We have continued our representation Finally we arranged to hold an open debate

North West by Carl Spencer Early in the year events were dominated North West Area Notes ments can be made for ‘04. Another long- by the publication of ‘Western Grit’ by Five meetings, average attendance of 7 running concern has been access at Craig Rockfax. The guidebook purported to be Chair Carl Spencer Y Longridge. At the beginning of the year a selective guide to the Gritstone of the Secretary Les Ainsworth things looked promising, but, despite all Western Peak and South Lancashire. How- Management Representatives our efforts, we have not yet been able to ever the level of coverage originally pro- Carl Spencer Les Ainsworth discuss the issues on site. posed by Rockfax proved the book to be Access Representatives The NW Area Youth had another good Les Ainsworth (N) Carl Spencer (S) year and though there were slightly fewer a definitive guide thus undermining the Gary Smith (Cheshire & Merseyside) BMC’s work. Following objections from Climbing Wall Representatives events this year all were well attended. local volunteers and clubs the BMC raised Nick Bond Steve Gille The year started with the BICCS where its concerns with Rockfax at both local Youth Rep we had success with Jemma Powell win- and management level and an agreement Tony Powell ning her category and Anne Marie Pritchard was reached with regard for a reduced level Members 2002 2003 coming 6th. Cal Reedie came second in the of content within the guidebook. Plans are No of clubs 38 39 boys in a closely fought battle with Tom now underway to publish an update to Club members 2885 2987 Bolger. Unfortunately, after holding the Individual members 3070 3039 BRYCS title since the competition began, Lancashire Rock in a more user friendly National club share 1465 1573 we only managed 3rd place, but there were format commencing with a South Lanca- Total members 7458 7599 shire volume. Lancashire Rock is now also some good individual performances. Once available online at ing July. Other pressures at Hoghton pre- again we held the NW Climbing Festival at www.lancashirerock.co.uk. vented opening over a longer periods, but West View Leisure Centre in Preston and On the access front the major event was nevertheless the opening was very suc- this proved to be another superb event that the trial opening of Hoghton Quarry dur- cessful and it is hoped that similar arrange- was enjoyed by about 50 participants.

Midlands Area Notes by Graham Richmond Five meetings, average attendance of 24 Midlands Chair Graham Richmond Secretary Charles Gameson Hinckley, Birmingham and Walsall. At- There were five meetings attended on Management Representatives average by 24 people. By far the most tendances do vary dramatically with Graham Richmond Charles Gameson popular meeting was in November Hinckley being the best attended. The Access Representatives which included both the AGM and the main topics discussed were in the main Brian Davies (East) Open meeting with the added attrac- political, subscriptions, AGM, Open Richard Law (West) tion of Ken Wilson’s talk. It was very meetings, Insurance. The access forums Climbing Wall Representative important that both Mark Vallance and were discussed in length together with Angela Benham Dave Turnbull attended which gave the the proposed Leicestershire guidebook. Youth Rep Russell Flynn evening an extra ingredient. Around 80 Access issues we are sure will in our Members 2002 2003 No of clubs 57 53 people attended. The evening proved area become more prevalent in 2004 Club members 3064 3244 to be lively, thought provoking and en- with the new routes to be done in areas Individual members 2660 2643 tertaining. As in previous years we now with no proven access. The need for National club share 1556 1708 only meet in three venues across the region keen volunteers is essential. Total members 7337 7595

16 BMC Annual Report 2003 North East by Peter Simcock area reports North East Area Notes BRYCS events in the NE were held in The Access Reps have also been in- Five meetings, average attendance of 8 conjunction with the Lakes Area. The vited to participate in the local ac- Northeastern event was held at cess forums in the NY Moors and in Chair Peter Simcock RockAntics. As a result of the interest gen- Northumberland. Another point of Secretary Bill Renshaw erated by the BRYCS, a group of young note this year was the BMC Access Management Representatives people from the NE is receiving additional Fund received a donation of £1000 Peter Simcock Alan Hinkes climbing coaching. This coaching has been from the Cleveland Mountaineering Access Representatives arranged by Jane Newman the youth officer. club, the surplus from its guidebook Peter Hay (N Yorks & Durham) Bill Renshaw (Northumberland) On the access front the two access reps fund. Climbing Wall Representative submitted reports on the draft maps. The On the climbing wall front the region is Peter Dyson provisional maps have now been pub- now reasonably well served with the Youth Representative lished, and the access representatives have Rockantics Wall and Sunderland wall, and Jane Newman been reviewing these for accuracy and er- with outdoor bouldering venues at Hartle- rors. A number of minor errors with re- pool and Whickham Thorns, Gateshead. Members 2002 2003 gards to the defined land use have been Again my thanks to the members of the No of clubs 14 13 identified. These have been reported to committee who give up their time on a vol- Club members 754 688 Individual members 1011 1094 the Countryside agency with the request untary basis to support the work of the National club share 383 362 these be corrected in any future mapping BMC in the North East. Total members 2162 2144 corrections.

London & South East by Daphne Pritchard been our conservation man for several years and was the driving force behind this work. Kent to Oxford, Norfolk to Sussex, this Rocks, have received regular conservation We have had 5 meetings this year plus BMC area is the largest, both geographi- work. Thanks to John Galloway who has one extra which had a single item agenda so cally and in the number of members. We that we could concentrate on the problems have over 100 clubs and around 7000 indi- London & SE Area Notes then besetting the BMC. Ivor Delafield viduals but we have only seen 12 individual Five meetings, average attendance of 16 chaired the meeting and was diligent in re- members and 13 club reps at our meetings! Chair Daphne Pritchard searching the background and history of the Ideas are sought which would encourage Secretary Neil Brindley situation. We are grateful to him for all the better representation. During ‘03 the at- Management Representative time he spent. As a result we were able to Roy Court tendance at meetings varied between 10 Access Representative send a comprehensive document to Dave and 22, but three clubs have started send- John Galloway Musgrove which made suggestions on ing their reps and a couple of individuals Climbing Wall Representative BMC re-organisation. have turned up – all welcome. At our AGM Roy Court Young climbers in the area are encouraged by Youth Representative in November Julian King, was elected to Rob Naylor Rob Naylor, our very active Youth Officer. be Area Secretary. Roy Court has continued as our climbing wall The members we represent mostly travel Members 2002 2003 rep and supplies us with regular reports on all over the UK to follow their chosen ac- No of clubs 120 119 possible developments and on changes to ex- Club members 5505 5690 tivity. However the sandstone outcrops Individual members 8775 8903 isting walls. He has also spent time reading are well used and the two crags which we National club share 2796 2996 the Articles of Association, to help explain to manage, Harrisons Rocks and Stone Hill Total area members 17196 17589 us the present BMC management Structure.

planned for summer 2004. Yorkshire & Humberside by Dennis Gray Publication of the Rockfax guides and the In 2003, the area’s access volunteers {John raising of subscriptions both caused conster- Yorks & Humber Area Notes Belbin (Limestone), Robin Costello nation in Yorkshire and these concerns led to Five meetings, average attendance 13 lively debates on these subjects. In Decem- (Gritstone) and Dave Musgrove} have been Chair Dennis Gray busy again, supported by other local volun- Secretary Alex Lawrence ber, the local Future Policy review meeting teers. Relationships with various bodies Management Representatives and slideshow by Al Powell were held spe- connected with access have continued to Alex Lawrence Justin Bolger cially in Ilkley. improve. Liaison with the Yorkshire Dales Access Representatives There have been many changes and im- National Park and English Nature is both Robin Costello (grit) provements to Hull climbing wall and a friendly and effective. This has helped to Climbing Wall Representative Vacant new leisure and snow centre opened in Sep- resolve various bird/access restrictions, and Youth Representative tember at Glasshoughton near Castleford; also remove graffiti amicably. At other crags Justin Bolger (this has a small climbing wall and a real like Shipley Glen and Ilkley, liaison with the Members 2002 2003 ice-climbing wall). Local volunteers again local council has worked well. Clean ups No of clubs 33 35 supported the successful BRYCS youth Club members 1795 2260 were organised at Woodhouse Scar and series. In the European Youth Cup, local Individual members 2380 2413 Almscliff. lad Tom Bolger climbed consistently well National club share 912 1190 throughout the year in the youth B (14-15 Under CRoW it was hoped that Hugencroft Total members 5120 5863 and other smaller crags would be accessible. category), winning one round, performing However, despite vigorous lobbying and sev- CRoW at Great Wolfrey. better than any previous British junior and eral meetings on and off site it looks likely The Yorkshire Mountaineering Club are again coming second overall. Tom also won the that the line for open land will be drawn at the thanked for donating to the BMC Access Fund national BRYCS 13-15 boys event, the na- top of the crag instead of the bottom. One from sales of their definitive-climbing guides. tional BICC junior leading competition and new crag will be opened to access under A new definitive Yorkshire Limestone guide is came 10th in the World Youth Championships.

BMC Annual Report 2003 17 Peak District by Michael Hunt 2003 has been a busy year for the BMC national park. It is an area of international Willersley Castle Rocks, High Tor, Aldery in the Peak. A lot of volunteer effort has importance to climbers and hill walkers. Quarry, Staden Quarry, Dukes Quarry, gone into preserving our “traditional” It is because of the large numbers visiting Millstone Edge, Windgather Rocks, The enjoyment of hill walking and climbing, the Peak that the environment is under Roaches, Standingstones and Shinning both in the immediate and for the long- pressure and there are inevitable conflicts Clough. term future. The BMC Peak Area has between recreationalists and This year the Peak Area has been approx. 4% of the BMC members, yet environmentalists. Such difficulties supported by a team of twelve hosts the worlds second most visited constantly crop up and our dedicated team volunteers. We owe these people our of Voluntary Access Representatives have thanks. The coming year will Peak District Area Notes had yet another very busy year. undoubtedly bring more difficulties for Five meetings, average attendance of 44 Our longer term strategy of building us to face, especially regarding access. Chair Michael Hunt alliances and partnerships with various Currently we have a team of seven Secretary Mike Pinder area reports Voluntary Access Representatives. We Management Representatives agencies such as Derbyshire Wildlife Michael Hunt John Horscroft Trust, English Nature, The National Trust are always welcoming to people who Access Representatives and The Peak National Park has led to a have time or expertise to contribute to James Simpson (Chatsworth & Derwent) greater understanding between us and has the team. Additionally as we are now Bunny McCullough (Eastern grit) helped prevent wholesale seasonal bans negotiating to take over the management David Bishop (Western grit) to crags where birds are nesting in favour of Horseshoe Quarry, we will need to Henry Folkard (Peak limestone & general) of route specific bans. Climbers have develop a team of people to assist with Richard Gibbon (Chew Valley & Northern respected this approach and most nests this. Anyone who feels that they have Peak) time and energy to help with the Youth Representative were successful in fledging their young. Diane Staniforth Additionally our Access Team has been important behind the scenes work, busy representing our interests on many please get in touch with me. Members 2002 2003 fronts. Although some of the work Finally, much of our actions and No of clubs 29 30 undertaken is of a general nature to help support has come from Henry Folkard Club members 1351 1267 our cause in future difficulties, specific who coordinates most of the work of Individual members 1152 1236 interventions have been made at the our Access Team. We owe Henry an National club share 686 667 following: Stanage Edge, Horseshoe enormous vote of thanks. Total members 3218 3170 Quarry, Cheedale, Yarncliff Quarry,

places if you decide to join them). We by Dave Meeson Committee of Wales Notes Wales have been keeping a close eye on devel- Five meetings, average attendance of 11 opments regarding the Green Key Ini- First of all I would like to thank our tiative. Although this has been very Chair David Meeson previous chairman Wayne Gladwin for quiet throughout the year, it is increas- Secretary Robert Platt his 14 years of diligent service to the ingly obvious that this initiative is far Management Representatives David Meeson Robert Platt Committee for Wales. Wayne left at from dead. Regarding Craig y Castell Access Representatives the end of a period where, for quite we are continuing to monitor the fact John Custance (SE) some time there had been a great deal of that a hospital may well be built across Paul de Mengel (Pembroke) discussion and indeed genuine belief our current access route and whether Steve Lewis (Gower) that we were not far from employing a this will affect access to the cliff. Gary Dickinson (Clwyd Limestone) Development Officer for Wales. Un- In addition to the above a very well Climbing Wall Representative fortunately one of my first tasks as attended (60 –70 people) open meeting Gary Lewis Mike Simpkins chairman was to break the news that, was held at the Heights, Llanberis, to Youth Representatives Linda Jensen (S) John Carrie (N) due to the then financial difficulties of discuss the BMC Future policy review. the BMC this was not going to be pos- An excellent discussion / debate took Members 2002 2003 sible, at least for the time being. place with those present enjoying a No of clubs 18 21 The main areas of interest and discus- superb after event slide show. It is just Club membership 1333 1325 sion throughout the year have been; the a shame that a few of those present are Individual members 1759 1758 CRoW Act, access to Craig y Forwen not willing to devote a maximum of 5 National club share 677 698 (Llandulas), the Green Key initiative evenings a year to attend the commit- Total members 3787 3781 and possible future access problems tee meetings that do their very best to regarding Craig y Castell (Tremadog). represent their interests. someone more able and with more time A very well attended meeting was held I would like to thank John Carrie, our to devote to it came along. Luckily for at Plas y Brenin regarding the CRoW Youth Rep, Mike Simpkins the Climb- me I only had to serve a year. I wish Act and how to input into the mapping ing Walls rep and Gerwyn James the KC Gordon, the new chair, all the best. process – Manchester has made a South Wales Sec, for all the hard work I will serve under him as best I can. number of representations on our be- that they have put in over the past year. ************ half. The possibility of regaining ac- I would also like to thank Rob Platt, cess to Craig y Forwen has been pur- the North Wales Secretary, who is Other Area Notes 2003 sued with some vigour. Although we standing down for his vociferous, but (outside BMC areas & overseas) are still banned from this site there has most welcome contribution over the No of clubs 2 Club members 43 been an increase in the number of peo- past few years. Individual Members 2642 ple breaking that ban (please don’t park When I agreed to take on the role as National club share 18 opposite the farm or in the passing chairman I said that I would do it until Total members 2730

18 BMC Annual Report 2003 other reports The BMC has many connections, involvements, and responsibilities to other bodies. In many cases reciprocal representation arrangements exist, and the most relevant are reported here.

British Upland Footpath Trust continue to be heavily involved in the year under the direction of Nick Kempe IFMGA and have contributed to the (MLTUK Chair), Kate Ross and Stuart BUFT was founded in 1992 with the debate over accepting countries that do Thompson (Vice Chairs) and then from aim of improving the quality and not ski as a sport in their countries. May under Doug Jones (Chair), Allister standard of footpath work and The association is grateful to Mountain McQuoid and John Ellis Roberts (Vice maintenance in the uplands. The four Equipment and who sponsored the asso- Chairs). Meetings are held in the four founder partners were the BMC, the ciation with financial assistance during home nations and the incentive of a day Camping and Outdoor Leisure 2003. in the Cairngorms, Lake District, Association (now the Outdoor Insurance for BMG members living Mournes or Snowdonia after our Industries Association), the MCofS abroad continues to be a difficult issue meetings ensures excellent attendance and the Ramblers’ Association with for the association to resolve. by all representatives. administrative support being provided Finally the arrangement with the MLTE Mountain Leader Training UK has co- by the BMC. office works well due to the hard work of ordinated the response to a number of 2003 saw growing momentum for Sue Doyle and her colleagues. external consultations including the Ad- BUFT to become active again, with venture Activities Licensing Scheme, a interest also being shown by pathworkers Mountaineering Co-ordination review of the Scout Association’s in Ireland. As a result, in the autumn we Group authorisation scheme, the future decided to arrange a mini-symposium for management of Glenmore Lodge and all those interested to have their say in MCG is the forum for the domestic proposed regulations from the Health the future direction of the Trust. This Mountaineering Councils in the UK and Safety Commission on Work at was attended in January 2004 by around and Ireland to discuss areas of com- Height. 40 people, discussing role of BUFT, who mon interest and ways in which to in- Our training schemes continue to should be involved and how it should crease cross-body co-operation. attract leaders at all levels and this was relate to the Access & Conservation Trust In 2003, MCG meetings were held in recently recognised by our inclusion in among other topics. A clear need for Buxton (April), Glenmore Lodge (June) government plans for a National BUFT to oversee best practice in trail and Clifden (October). In the early part of Coaching Certificate. The BMC has work was identified and the work will 2003, discussion focused on Council mem- participated fully in specific review of drive forward in 2004. bership subscriptions. During the year the Mountain Leader, Mountaineering British Mountain Guides the main concerns of MCG have been the Instructor (summer) and Single Pitch on-going management of the IT Moderni- Awards during the year. In particular The British Association of Mountain sation Project, the management of the we have developed guidance on the Guides has its origins as a BMC com- Access & Conservation Trust and the fu- mountain and crag environment in or- mittee. Now an independent body the ture of MCG. der to assist candidates and their BMG’s base is at the MLTE office trainers to understand the standards Siabod Cottage, North Wales. Honor- Mountain Leader Training UK required in this essential element. ary secretary AE Richardson reports: In support of our schemes we pub- John Bracey was accepted onto the Mountain Leader Training has lished the first of a series of handbooks training and assessment scheme this year. been provided to teachers, youth called ‘Hill Walking’, written by Steve The following members were welcomed workers, professional instructors Long and described as the official into the BMG as full guides: Al Powell and many others for nearly forty handbook of the Mountain Leader and and Jon Morgan. years. This training has been Walking Group Leader schemes. Partner The BMG training and assessment managed by five Training Boards who organisations including the BMC have scheme is currently under review to have worked progressively more been very successful in selling the book ensure that the BMG has the most closely together over the last few and ensuring its commercial as well as efficient, thorough and professional years. critical success. Work is well underway scheme possible. The committee is due Mountain Leader Training UK has to produce a Rock Climbing handbook to report back in March 2004. The worked closely with the BMC this year along similar lines. training committee said goodbye to Jim on a number of issues. In particular the Finally our energies have turned to Kerr and Phil Poole and were thanked for threat from government to withdraw supporting leaders once they have their dedication to the BMG. They were both organisations funding ensured very completed the relevant training. During replaced by Jim Blyth and Nick Kekus. close co-operation that resulted in UK the year work has progressed in the At the AGM Alun Richardson and Paul Sport agreeing to support us throughout development of the Mountain Leader Moores were re-elected to their posts. 2004. A project to develop a shared I.T. Training Association. Discussions with The BMG lost its publicity officer this system within mountaineering has also the BMC are inconclusive at this stage year. Bill O’connor had done sterling work borne fruit through the year, thanks to but our aim is to affiliate this association promoting the association with suppliers a grant from UK Sport and a lot of work to the three Councils ensuring sustained and potential sponsors. He will be sorely from many of those involved. It is support for everyone involved. Early missed. A new Publicity Officer is hoped that a joint database between research shows that leaders want currently being sought. Councils and Training Boards linked to additional training, insurance and a The BMG Child Protection Policy and interactive websites will be a valuable dedicated newsletter and we hope to be Duty of Care documents are finished. asset and one which will only encourage able to provide this some time in 2004. Steve Jones attended the IFMGA further collaboration. John Cousins - Secretary, MLTUK Technical Commission in Lecco, Italy. The Board of MLTUK continues to The chairman and training officer work closely, for the first part of the

BMC Annual Report 2003 19 our statistics expert, we are now able to Alan Rouse Library the Executive Committee with Louise produce our own data on lost person be- Thomas becoming a Vice President at Set up by the friends of the Late Alan haviour. This is of enormous value in or- the AGM in April. Rouse, and managed in 2003 by Dave ganizing searches and allows the best use MTT has now successfully operated Plas Gregory, who reports: of valuable manpower resources. y Brenin in partnership with Sport Eng- The library has had another interesting Two areas of concern in the accident fig- land far exceeding all targets for seven years. year with some new titles in the library ures are worthy of individual mention. Negotiations are under way to seek a new and many more in order. The extended Firstly ghyll scrambling appears to be in- contract, which will provide security and opening hours have given our customers creasing in popularity and with it there appropriate financial support for the ac- access to the collection 6 days a week with are a number of accidents, some of a seri- tivities that take place at Plas y Brenin. 2 evenings until 8 pm. ous nature. There would seem to be a sig- There was a fantastic lively atmosphere In May 2003 we celebrated the 50th nificant underestimation of the risks en- at Plas y Brenin in August when the whole Anniversary of the first ascent of Everest tailed by a large number of participants, site was occupied for a week by 100 young with a lecture by Mike Truman, who especially in respect of the looseness of climbers and mountaineers developing climbed Everest in 1999 and led over 20 the rock encountered. their Trad climbing, Leading, Scrambling other reports Himalayan expeditions. There was a dis- Secondly there have been a number of and navigating skills – and of course hav- play of materials from the collections, sale accidents in the Peak District in which ing a great time. of climbing books and magazines, and over lead climbers have pulled out all the pro- The new free internet based weather 50 people attended. tection they have placed. We do not have forecast service for mountaineers on the This March/April we are planning to an explanation for this. welsh hills was launched by Minister for have an illustrated talk by Terry Gifford One small area of concern is that, in com- Sport Alun Pugh AM at Plas y Brenin. on his book ‘the Joy of Climbing’. Invita- mon with a number of other voluntary This was the result of co-operation be- tions will be posted and e-mailed out to organisations, new members are becom- tween the Welsh Assembly Government, all out local climbing contacts and will give ing thin on the ground. We hope that this MLTW, BMC (Wales) Committee, MRC, us the opportunity to show our custom- may be only a temporary state of affairs. MLTUK and other interests – a good out- ers what we have on offer. come. Expedition reports from 2000 up to date Central Council for The well supported BMC Technical are being noted from our database in order Physical Recreation conference took place in November. It to update the Alan Rouse printed catalogue. was reassuring to find that the metal fa- We are working on compiling a complete The Central Council of Physical Rec- tigue investigation demo’s couldn’t find catalogue of all our climbing and moun- reation is the umbrella body for Na- any fractures in the picks of our ice axes! taineering journals. This will list titles tional Governing Bodies of Sport. Iain Peter - Chief Executive, PyB and holdings for 88 journals, including Howard Wells is the CCPR Chairman many foreign titles. and Margaret Talbot is the CEO. The Mountain Leader Training We also have a range of older materials BMC is a member of the Outdoor Pur- England donated from climbers, which have filled suits Division, which is Chaired by BMC some of our gaps. Hon Member and former President Bob Andy Say reports from the awarding Again we would like to mention that Pettigrew. The Outdoor Pursuits Division body for Group Leader and Supervisor the Alan Rouse Collection is based in the and together with the CCPR Annual Con- Awards in England: Reference and Sports Library where other ference provides an excellent forum for The work of MLTE has continued sports and travel materials are available for putting the collective case for sports and through another busy year which has seen those who wish to improve their fitness, or recreation to Government. a great deal of consolidation rather than great check out the pubs and accommodation leaps forward. New faces at the helm are High Mountain Magazine close to where they are travelling. that of Martin Doyle who has taken over Enquiries are welcome in person, by tel- As part of our commitment to reach as Chairman of the Board, as successor to ephone, fax or email. For further details as wide an audience as possible, BMC Doug Jones, and Dave Roberts who has please contact Julie Skiba/Frances Rev- news headlines are published in High taken up the duties of Vice-Chair. Subse- els, tel 0114 273 4747, fax 0114 273 5009, Mountain Magazine each month. quent to their election at the 2003 AGM email [email protected] or The BMC values its long-standing rela- they, as well as the continuing members of [email protected] tionship with High Magazine and the edi- the Executive (Brian Griffiths and John torial staff of Geoff Birtles and Ian Smith Mason), have given unstinting support to Mountain Rescue Council are established supporters of the BMC. the work of the full-time officers; as have The magazine is published by the rest of the representatives sitting on the Dave Allan (Chair of MRC) reports Greenshires, who helped the BMC launch Board as Members or Observers. Through- on developments in 2003: Summit magazine in 1996 and the two out 2003 Shirley Lock and Cath Luke con- The number of incidents during the pre- organisations have continued to work tinue to support both the officers in their vious 12 months would suggest that there closely on several projects in 2003 includ- work and the Award Scheme Candidates has been a full return to hill activities after ing the BMC Members Handbook. and Providers through their problems. the restrictions of FMD. Administration services have also been Lower leg injuries to fell walkers de- Plas y Brenin & maintained for the Association of Moun- scending at the end of the day remain the Mountain Training Trust taineering Instructors providing a valuable commonest reason for call outs other than link with many of those who deliver our requests to find missing and overdue peo- In 2003 the Mountain Training Trust courses. Mal Creasey, settling rapidly into ple on and off the hill. It is good to record (MTT) continued to work closely with his new role as Development Officer, has that mobile phones are being deployed the BMC and contributed to the work continued to expand the number and range much more sensibly and are proving to be of the Training Advisory Group, Tech- of moderation visits undertaken by the a great asset in dealing with lost parties. nical Committee, Youth Advisory Board. These sessions, out with Providers Largely due to the efforts of Ged Feeney, Panel, Committee of Management and

20 BMC Annual Report 2003 and Candidates on the hill or crag, are in- the Board desk there as much as his other, BMC support to the UIAA 2003 valuable; not just as a means of quality as- peripatetic duties allow, MLTE repre- President Ian McNaught-Davis other reports surance but also as a way of keeping the sentatives attend and support the Train- Council Mark Vallance Board informed about evolving best prac- ing Advisory Group and BMC Manage- General Assembly Mark Vallance Access & Conservation Commission tice and getting feedback from those at the ment Committee meetings on a regular Bob Pettigrew (President) sharp end about what we are doing right or basis and give whatever contributions Clare Bond (Secretary) getting wrong. For the period of 2003 a they can to their work. The reciprocal ICC Management Committee total of 52 visits were made from Sheep’s contributions of BMC staff and elected Graeme Alderson Ian Alderson Tor on Dartmoor (SPA) to the wilder parts officers to the work of the Executive Medical Commission of the Cheviots (WGL) with most spots in Committee and Board of MLTE is equally Jim Milledge between covered. valued. There are many occasions where Dave Hillebrandt (Vice President) The other major aspect of the Develop- mutual expertise can be shared benefi- Expedition Commission Lindsay Griffin ment Officer’s role is the co-ordination and cially and discussions, particularly with Mountaineering Commission delivery of training workshops for provid- Ian Hey, Graeme Alderson, Clare Bond Dave Turnbull (Secretary) ers and Award holders. Whilst maintaining and Graham Lynch, have proved that Mountain Protection the ‘traditional’ scheme specific workshops there is not such a big divide between the Dave Morris (President) the Board’s Officers are investigating pos- interests of the individuals and the or- Safety Commission sibilities for more general interest sessions. ganisations; we’re all mountaineers! In Neville McMillan An environmental day run with the sup- particular thanks have to be given to Clare Training Standards Working Group John Cousins (Secretary) port staff from the Snowdonia National Park and the input she has provided to some Youth Commission and CCW in Cwm Idwal was very well of our workshops as well as a stream of Anne Arran (Vice President) received by all who attended and this pro- advice and answers to our specific que- Legal Experts Working Group vision will undoubtedly be expanded to ries on behalf of Providers. Paul Debney, Anthony Rich, Martin Wragg meet demand. Other ideas are under devel- Looking at 2003 the Board is involved opment and it is hoped that the Board can with the IT development initiated and led ************* deliver more of these developmental work- by the BMC to bring about an integrated, Future Policy Review shops to our Provider staff. The Board UK-wide mountaineering database; we In 2003 the BMC initiated a detailed must express its indebtedness to the fund- are starting to process all candidate regis- review of its activities and appointed a ing support it receives from Sport England trations internally; we are reviewing the Steering Group, chaired by Bob Moulton, which is specifically targeted at these areas way we administer our Provider list; ex- to manage the process. Detailed recom- of work. amining our investment policy and co- mendations will be presented to the 2005 A major indicator of the credence given ordinating our efforts to expand the pro- AGM and the Management Committee will to the Award schemes is in the number of vision of WGL courses. It could be a address any necessary interim recommen- candidates registering with the Board. great leap forward year! dations in the meantime. The Steering Whilst there has been a declining trend Group met 5 times in 2003 and 450 climbers over a number of years from a peak in the Union Internationale des and walkers attended the 10 regional early/mid 90’s, which may be attributed Associations d’Alpinisme consultation meetings. The FPR’s terms of to the start of the SPA scheme and the reference are shown below: impetus given to outdoor qualifications The International Mountaineering Future Challenges. Define the main by the inception of AALA, 2003 showed and Climbing Federation (UIAA) is challenges and problems facing the BMC the first upturn in registration numbers the world body for climbers, hill and mountaineers in England and Wales over in recent years. ML and SPA particu- walkers and mountaineers. the next 10 years. Advise how the BMC larly showed a small but significant in- BMC representation within the should address these issues. crease of around 150 candidates over the UIAA was particularly strong in 2003 Activities and Priorities. Review the 2002 statistics which bodes well for the with Ian McNaught-Davis continuing BMC’s specialist activities and sub-com- future. The Board decided that registra- his term as UIAA President and Roger mittees in terms of their relevant impor- tion processing will be handled at Siabod Payne as Director of Sport & tance, structure and operational efficiencies. Office from the end of 2003 enabling a Development based in Switzerland. Recommend restructuring and refocusing as concentration upon core work and a more BMC President Mark Vallance was a appropriate. Determine whether the BMC direct contact with candidates and with member of the UIAA Council in 2003 should be a ‘facilitator’ or ‘provider’ of the help of BMC staff, who have done a and represented the UK at the General services and activities. fine job on our behalf for so long, a smooth Assembly in Berchtesgarden. Volunteers and Staff. Review the rela- transition is anticipated in 2004. Co-in- The BMC nominates experts to work tionship between volunteers and paid staff cidentally the opportunity to expand our on the specialist commissions of the within the BMC. Advise on how the BMC current main administration office accom- UIAA, with travel expenses supported can better support volunteers throughout modation has enabled a greater opportu- by UK Sport. All UIAA Commissions the country and also on what is an nity to handle stock and efficiently deal have important work programmes, and appropriate level of staffing for the with candidate registrations. The cur- some of the key achievements in 2003 organisation. rent situation where the staff of two of included developments relating to a Membership Structure. Report on the the Home Nation Boards and the UK report from the Legal Experts Working BMC’s membership structure and the rela- Board work in close proximity can only Group on liability, further progress tionship between the costs and benefits of strengthen our ability to apply ‘joined- with international standards for club and individual membership. Make up thinking’ to development and the abil- voluntary mountain leaders, the co- outline recommendations for a future mem- ity to share expertise and resources. ordination of international youth meets, bership structure. As well as the Board being committed and clarification of disciplinary Management Structure. Advise on how to maintaining on officer presence in the regulations for climbing competitions. the BMC’s voluntary management BMC offices, with Mal being based at structure can be improved.

BMC Annual Report 2003 21 Membership Services Quality services, support and advice for BMC Members 2003 – yet another growth year for dealt with by the MLTE at their Capel of Nick Barber who was replaced by membership which stood at 63,455 at Curig base in Wales. Yasotha Prabaharan. We bade farewell to year end. This was made up of 34,937 Ian Fenton mid year and Stuart Ingram in individual members and 28,518 club mem- Staff December as he set off to see the world. bers split between 344 clubs. Insurance Clonagh Delderfield left the MST in We welcomed Neil Johnson part time sales also saw a healthy growth pattern February and gave birth to twin boys in working on the child protection policy again as did sales of other products. At April. Vanessa Hall went on maternity and Ana Jolly in December to cover for the end of 2003 Mountain Leader Train- leave in October and gave birth to a Vanessa whilst on maternity leave. ing England registrations ceased to be healthy baby girl in December. There was processed by BMC and are now being a change in accounts with the departure

BMC Membership 1990 to 2003

office reports 70000

60000

50000

40000

30000

20000

10000

0 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003

Individual 6829 7189 7674 9682 10143 10245 10213 14793 19732 22849 24997 28381 32516 34937 Club members 19100 19100 19296 21031 21564 22172 22532 23550 25637 27467 27026 27020 28510 28518 Combined 25929 26289 26970 30713 31707 32417 32745 38343 45369 50316 52023 55401 61026 63455

BMC Service Charter Officer Team BMC CEO Dave Turnbull Access & Graham Lynch The BMC is a busy organisation with a large workload and a Conservation Clare Bond focused staff team. This team provides membership services and Youth Neil Johnson specialist work and co-ordination with volunteers on the various Walls & Comps Graeme Alderson development programmes. The BMC staff team is committed to Web & Summit Alex Messenger Technical & Safety Ian Hey working to the highest standards and efficiency and welcomes Guidebooks Niall Grimes comments on the service provided. The BMC staff team undertakes to: Co-ordinator Team • Respond to all orders for services on the day received and dispatch within two Projects & Events Lucy Mellor-Brook working days. Vanessa Hall / • Answer the telephone within three (and no more than five) rings and where the Ana Jolly relevant member of staff is not available offer assistance or voice mail. Information Stuart Ingram Financial Controller Alan Brown • Respond to all other correspondence - using plain English - as promptly as Finance Assistant Yas Prabaharan possible (if a lengthy or complex reply is required this will be acknowledged within Marketing Andy Gowland five working days if it is not possible to respond in full within ten days). Tony Ryan I T Simon Hurley • Support the BMC’s policy of encouraging a positive approach to equal opportu- Membership Services Lynda Buckley nities and ensure that all visitors to the BMC office are greeted promptly and dealt with politely and efficiently. Membership Services Team • Treat all database information in strict accordance with the Data Protection Act. Jim Krawiecki Simon Manns • Meet payments and issue invoices promptly in accordance with agreed payment Arun Patel Ray Perry terms with a target to pay within 30 days. Clonagh Delderfield Hannah Skeldon

22 BMC Annual Report 2003 Club & Associate Members 2003 CLUBS Gentian MC 100 Oread MC - Derbyshire 30 West England M&HC l70 Arcturus Expeditions Limited

9th Hallow Scout & Guide MC 20 Giggleswick School 20 Ounsdale MC 27 Wolverhampton CC 20 Birmingham Boys & Girls Union reports office Aberystwyth MC 51 Gloucestershire MC 97 Out There 36 Wales Coll of Medicine CC 20 Bowles Outdoor Centre ABMSAC 227 Goats MC 40 Over The Hill Club 122 Central England 50 Bryntysilo Outdoor Centre Achille Ratti CC 799 Green Lane MC 21 Oxford Brookes Uni CC 85 Hertfordshire MC 40 Calshot Activities Centre Afan MC 21 Gritstone Club 113 Oxford MC 100 Sheffield High Peak Club 23 Calvert Trust Adventure Centre AGC MC 20 Guernsey MC 20 Oxford Uni MC 56 UWFRA OC 2 Civilian Technical Training School Aldermaston MC 34 Guildford MC 48 Parnassus MC 22 Vagabond MC 69 Consett YMCA Ltd Allen & Overy CC 20 Gwent MC 103 Patterdale M Rescue Ass 28 Vale Royal MC 8 Conway Centre Alpine Club 1140 Gwydyr MC 76 Peak CC 26 Vectis MC 8 Derbyshire County Council Youth Altitude 16 Hampshire MA 35 Pembrokeshire CC 71 Vibram MC 44 Service Alton Mountaineering Club 17 Hassra Leeds MAC 28 Peterborough Hospitals WC 20 WAG 45 Dewsbury AC&C Windermere AMI (England and Wales) 658 Hastings R&FC 46 Peterborough MC 141 Walsall Rock & Ice MC 20 Fairbridge Anabasis MC 38 Hereford CC 20 Pfizer CC 24 Wanderers OAC 75 Gay Outdoor Club Arete MC 28 Hereford MC 33 Philips Components S&SC 18 Wanneys CC 30 Hagg Farm Environmental Ed. Centre Army MA 1920 Heron Outdoor Pursuits 49 Phoenix MC 47 Warwick CC 43 Hindleap Warren OEC Army Youth Team 7 Hertfordshire MC 115 Pinnacle Club 177 Warwick Uni MC 68 Joint Services MTC (Wales) Aston Uni MC 48 High Peak CG 28 Plymouth Primary Schools CC 43 Wayfarers 200 Longtown Centre Avon MC 20 High Peak Womens CG 18 Polaris MC 66 Wayfarers WC 118 Low Mill Res. Young Peoples Centre Aylesbury CC 70 Highdown H&MC 57 Powsers MC 39 Wellingborough MC 78 Maes Y Lade Outdoor Education Centre Bangor Uni MSoc 92 Hild & Bede MC 20 Preston MC 100 Wessex MC 260 Manor Adventure Barnsley MC 60 Hillingdon MC 35 Queen Mary & Westfield CMC 20 West Anglia OG 18 Nant Bwlch yr Haearn Barrow M & Ski Club 40 Hinckley MC 50 RAF Leeming Rock CC 20 West Bromwich MC 261 Nantmor Mountain Centre Ass. Basingstoke CC 45 Hornsea WC 39 RAF St Mawgan MC 19 West Cumbria MC 38 Northants Ass. Yth Clubs & Action C Bath Uni MC 146 HQ Chester & EP MC 20 Reading MC 95 West Lancs County Scouts 9 Peak Training Battle CC 20 Hull Uni MC 70 Reading Uni Graduate MC 10 Wok and Rice Club 23 PGL Travel Ltd Bedford MC 35 Ibex 101 Reading Uni MC 70 Wolverhampton MC 77 Plas Gwynant Outdoor Ed. Centre Bedroc 45 Imperial College Union OC 34 Reaseheath WC 20 Wolverhampton RR WC 15 Rhosygwaliau Outdoor Ed. Centre Beeston Hill & MC 36 Imperial Medics MC 22 Red Rope R&MC 378 Worcester MC 25 Storey Arms Outdoor Ed. Centre Ben Lairig Uni of York 40 Innominata MC 80 Rock & Heather Club - Notts 39 Wrekin MC 88 The Dartmoor Centre Bewdley & District MC 13 Ipswich MC 52 Royal Air Force MA 350 Writtle College MC 20 The Expedition Company Ltd BHMC - Bassetlaw H&MC 51 Jersey Rock CC 14 Royal Navy & Marines MC 570 Yeovil MC 32 The Horstead Centre Bolton Institute C&WC 11 John Clare MC 20 Royal Veterinary College MC 44 Yeti Club 20 West Pelton Activity Centre Bournemouth Uni CC 50 Junior MC of Scotland 40 Rucksack Club 427 York Alpine Club 46 Whickham Thorns Outdoor Activity Bowline CC 99 Karabiner MC 140 Rugby MC 44 York MC 19 Centre Bridgend MC 15 Keele Uni MC 20 Saltley HC 21 York Uni MC 72 Wirral Outdoor Pursuits Bridlington W&CC 20 Keighley Police MC 20 Sandstone CC 22 Yorkshire MC 197 YMCA National Centre Brighton Uni MC 44 Kernow CC 38 Scunthorpe MC 17 Yorkshire Ramblers Club 185 British Airways F&M Section 47 Keswick MC 67 Sheffield Hallam F&MC 28 Yorkshire W&CC 26 BMC 365 Kings College London MC 24 Shrewsbury MC 87 Yr Hafod Scout M Fellowship 37 OVERSEAS Bromsgrove & Redditch MC 30 Kings Rock and Plod Club 22 Skyline MC - Burton on Trent 29 New Zealand Mt Safety Council Bucks Chilterns Uni 85 Kingston Uni MC 53 Slough MG 59 Buxton MC 45 Knottingley MC 20 Solihull (Police) MC 20 MOUNTAIN RESCUE Calderdale MC 30 Kodak W&CC 20 Solihull MC 64 Cockermouth Mountain Rescue Team Cambridge C&CC 35 Lancashire C&CC 218 South Cheshire CC 22 LOCAL AUTHORITY Kinder Mountain Rescue Team Lake District Mt Rescue Association Cambridge Uni HC 130 Lancashire MC 139 South Devon MC 49 Clegwell Community Association Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Team Cambridge Uni MC 157 Lancaster Uni MC 35 South Essex CC 22 Devon County Council RAF Mountain Rescue Service CCC - Mt Section 15 Lanchester MC 49 South Kensington Alpine MC 20 Pencoed College Canterbury CC Uni C MC 20 Landlopers MC 27 South Wales MC 100 Plas Pencelli Outdoor Education Centre TRADE Cardiff Uni MC 160 Lands End CC 35 Southampton Rats CC 60 West Sussex County Council Allcord Carlisle MC 90 Leeds Metropolitan Uni MC 19 Southampton Uni MC 82 Wirksworth Leisure Centre Castle MC 45 Leeds MC 78 Southern Trekking & MC 100 Alpine Climbing and Ski Centre Ltd Bendcrete Climbing Walls Cedars MC 29 Leeds Uni MC 69 Sphinx MC 22 MULTI-ACTIVITY Leeds Uni Union HSoc 233 St Barts & Royal London AC l41 Breaking Free Ltd Cerberus Spelaeo Soc 12 3D Education & Adventure Ltd Ceunant MC 148 Leeds Uni Union MSoc 109 St Helens MC 70 Crickhowell Adventure Gear Adventure Sunderland Chamois MC 207 Leicester Uni MC 83 St Johns College CC 14 DMM International Avon Outdoor Activities Club Chelmsford MC 18 Leicestershire ML A 28 Staffordshire Police MC 24 DR Climbing Walls Bicton College Chester Great Outdoors Club 51 Lichfield MC 32 Stoke Damerel CC 42 Field and Trek Plc Carlton Lodge Outdoor Centre Chester MC 271 Lincoln MC 20 Stowmarket MC 16 First Ascent Caswell Outdoor Pursuit Group Christian Rock & MC 105 Lincolnshire SF MC 20 Summit MC 13 Inglesport Eldon Leisure Centre Churchill College MC 72 Lindsey CC 26 Sunderland MC 42 Joe Brown Climbing Shop Five Lamps Organisation Clare Rats (R&T Soc) 19 Liverpool Uni MC 46 Super Drooper M&C 40 Lyon Equipment Ltd Gearstones Lodge Outdoor Centre Cleveland MC 180 Liverpool Uni Open Air Club 58 Surbiton & Kingston MC 40 Mountain Technology (Glencoe) K Fellfarers Cliffhangers CC 30 LLangorse MC 26 Surrey Scout and Guide MC 52 North Cape (Scotland) Ltd Malthouse Outdoor Pursuits Centre Climbers Club 1244 Llanrwst Pentecostal Youth CC 20 Swindon MC 55 NST Travel Group PLC Meet The Challenge Climbers Section - C&CC 39 London MC 297 TCC Outdoor Pursuits Club 13 Outdoor Shop Merseyside Youth Challenge Trust Clingons CC 33 London Rockhoppers MC 68 Thames Valley CC 34 Peglers Mountain Ventures Ltd Clitheroe MC 51 London Youth School MA 25 The Grange School CC 25 Rockworks Plas Y Brenin Clwb Mynydda Cymru 217 Lost Souls of Trent 20 The Heights CC 20 Silva Ltd Portsmouth Youth Activities Clwyd MC 77 Loughborough Student UniHC 78 The LMC MC 35 The Leeds Wall (Star Walls Ltd) Committee Colchester CC 35 Loughborough Students MC 82 The Mountain Club 36 Trailwise Rotherham Access to Adventure & Coleshill MC 18 Loughton MC 28 The Mountain Walking Club 4 Troll Congleton MC 25 LSE RCC 132 The Nottingham Trent Uni HC 11 Travel Coventry MC 32 MACS (RH Uni of London) 48 The Nottingham Trent Uni MC 65 Swaledale Outdoor Club WALLS / INDOOR CENTRES Tangent Expeditions International Cragrats MC 20 Maidstone MC 37 The Outcasts 25 Activate Outdoors Ltd The Old Vicarage Centre Craven MC 98 Malvern MC 15 The Potteries MG 11 Arethusa Climbing Wall Walton Firs Scout Camp Site Cromlech Club 78 Manchester Metropolitan MC 32 The Walking Club 33 Association of British Climbing Walls Water Park (Eric Wright Trust) Cromwell MC 20 Manchester Pedestrian Club 79 Trentham OPC 20 Barden Community Association Croydon MC 59 Manchester Uni MC 123 Truro College CC 58 YSGOL Dyffryn Ogwen Bourne End Junior Sports Club Dacorum Adventure Group 47 Marylebone MC 84 TSB Outdoor Sports Club 20 Brunel University Sports Centre De Montfort Uni (Leics) MC 35 Meadhurst MC 23 Tuesday CC 86 NATIONAL Entre-Prises (UK) Ltd De Montfort Uni (Bedford) MC 20 MEDEX 240 Tunbridge Wells MC 109 British Association of Mountain Guides High Performance Sports Ltd Derby MC 19 Mercian MC 41 Tyne Valley Climbers 20 Fire Service Sport & Athletics Ass. Kirklees Active Centre Huddersfield Derbyshire Pennine Club 47 Merseyside MC 215 UEA RC&MC 110 Forestry Commission in Wales Llangorse Rope Centre Derwent MC 52 Midland AM 562 UMIST CC 36 Lake District National Park Medina Leisure Centre Deva MC 14 Milton Keynes MC 35 UMIST H&MC 37 Authority Mile End Climbing Wall Dockyard Venturers 23 Mixed Routes MC 23 Uni College London MC 72 Ramblers Association Oldham Wall Dorset CC 20 MAC - Harwell 20 Uni Mountain WC Bangor 115 Scout Association Roefield Leisure Centre Duke of Edinburgh Society 47 MAD 20 Unemployed CC (Brighton& Ho) 27 Welsh Scout Council Rope Race Durham Uni MC 20 MC of Bury 54 University of… The Ackers Eagle Ski Club 153 MC of North Wales 95 Wales Col Newport MC 17 YOUTH The Bristol Climbing Centre East Anglian CC 20 Mountbatten & Test Valley CC1 6 Birmingham MC 101 Air Training Corps The Rock Face East Grinstead CC 76 Munro-pineapple Soc Notts Uni 45 Bristol Exp Club 20 Boys Brigade Mountaineering Club The Sands Centre EPOC 20 Mynydd CC 176 Bristol MC 54 Broxbourne School Upper Limits East Sussex Fire Brigade Newbury MC 44 Central Lancashire 37 Dolphin School Urdd Gobaith Cymru W&MC 23 Newcastle Uni F Soc 74 Derby M&CC 31 Durham School Combined Cadet Force West View Leisure Centre East Yorkshire M&CC 32 Newcastle Uni MC 70 East Anglia F&CC 38 Haberdashers Askes School Westway Sports Centre Edale Mountain Rescue Team 42 Newton Rigg MAC 66 Essex MC 94 Herts Young Mariners Base Eden Valley MC 20 Nimrod MC 20 Greenwich CC 20 Highgate School D of E Scheme OTHER Edgehoppers CC 20 Norfolk HWC 23 Kent at Canterbury MC 38 Kent Mountain Centre Alpine Training Centre ESC MC 18 North British OT 20 London Graduate MC 260 Kings School Barclays Bank R and C Club Exeter Uni CC 77 North Kingston HC 27 London MC 28 Malvern College Birmingham Teachers Mt Association Expedition and Travel Society 74 North Leicestershire MC 20 Northumbria CC 15 Marlborough College MC Camps International Ltd Exp Group of North Somerset 60 North London MC 172 Nottingham MC 42 Oundle School MC Grimsby Fell Walking Climbing Club F1 Outdoors Club 17 North Yorkshire FC 49 Plymouth MC 38 Portsmouth Grammar School Fell & Rock CC 1150 Northumbrian MC 172 Portsmouth MC 83 Hillside Secure centre Rossett School ICAS Ltd Figure of Nine Club 34 Norwich Caving & CC 26 Surrey MC 20 St Albans School Forest of Dean Hillwalkers 22 Not The MLC MC 15 Sussex MC 41 Manchester University Hiking Club St Bees School Revolution Skate Park Ltd Foster Wheeler FC 20 Notts Uni Exp Club 93 Teesside MC 20 YHA Edale Frayednotts MC 52 Nuneaton MC 30 Wales - Aberystwth Exp Soc 27 St John Ambulance T R Agencies Free Barbarian CC 50 Off Limits MC 21 Wales Coll of Med CC 20 TRAINING / EXPEDITION Oldham MC 20 Wales Swansea MC 28 The Mountain Boot Company Fylde MC 188 Adventure Dolphin G S Exiles MC 27 Open Uni M Soc 152 Warwick Hill & Mt WC 140 Adventure Unlimited

BMC Annual Report 2003 23 BMC Annual Report 2003 £2.50 £2.50 £2.50 £2.50 £2.50 F F F F F ree toBMCmembers ree toBMCmembers ree toBMCmembers ree toBMCmembers ree toBMCmembers