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41 Inle Lake Lawksawk & Coffee & Trekking Ywangan The Southern Shan 41 SHAN 5 Panpyet Highlands 411 Blue Water 43 Highlights Pond Pindaya The Intha people who live and farm Min Ma Ye cave Thakinma Htem Sann on the waters of Inle Lake depend 5 Taung Shwe- Taunggyi Cave entirely on boats to get around, Green Hill nyaung wine 4 making their wetland home a Valley magical place to visit. Elephant C. HEH 1 Hoppong 3 The Intha are just one of many 41 Heho Nyaung- 4 2 shwe different peoples living in the Shan 2 Khaung Namhkok uplands, a scenic area more than 800 Aungpan Daing wine Kalaw Maing 3 5 meters above sea level. Inle Thouk Lake Kakku The cooler upland clime helped 54 1 Pagoda Banyin establish Kalaw as a hill station Nampan during the colonial period; it re- Shwe Inn Dein mains an attractive hill resort today. Pagoda Like Nyaungshwe near Inle Lake, it SHAN 4 is a good base for touring the sur- Naungtayar Loisawn rounding valleys, where ethnic NAYPYITAW 4 peoples live in watersheds separated Union 1 by folds of hills and rugged karsts. Territory Hsihseng 4 These ethnic groups are clearly Pinlaung Samkar identified in The Shan State Cultural Museum in Taunggyi, the lively Shan Phaya 5 State capital high in the hills to the Taung N east of Inle Lake. If visiting during Loi Paw the cool season (Dec-Feb), you may Moebyel Htee Sel need to emulate local people and go Kar Falls there to buy some warm clothing. 0 kilometers 25 Pekon Kong Pyek 54 A road trip south to Loikaw (± 150 KAYAH kms), the capital of Kayah State, can Aung Tha follow a loop that encompasses the Moe Bye Pyae Cave 1 Section in drive 4 full variety of scenery in the Shan LIW uplands as well as the wealth of Main sights Padaung ethnic minorities living there. Suggested Routes (long-neck) Loikaw Villages Sealed Road/Highway If planning to go no further south Demoso than Samkar and Pinlaung, or Unsealed (4WD only) Htee Pwint north to the famed cave at Pindaya, you will still see much of what the Shan Plateau has to offer. however, drive very slowly and cautiously—pedestrians, About this Guide roadworks, vehicles without lights and other unlit hazards are common! This guide is designed to make self-drive touring in Page Myanmar easier and must be used together with an Section 1: Heho Airport to Nyaungshwe (± 33 kms) 3 online navigation application—though we recommend & Inle Lake Area (Inn Dein/Samkar ± 33/78 kms Google Maps® in general (especially satellite view), Section 2: Heho Airport to Kalaw (± 37 kms) 5 Maps.me using OpenStreetMap data may at times be Section 3: East to Taungyi & beyond (± 31–71 kms) 6 better. This guide uses Google Maps® spelling conven- Section 4: South to Loikaw & Pinlaung tions for place names and distances, but actual distanc- 7 Nyaungshwe–Kakku–Loikaw ± 200kms: es from those shown in this guide may vary (±) by Loikaw–Pinlaung ± 90 kms: Pinlaung–Kalaw/ 2.5kms depending on starting point. Nyaungshwe ±78 kms) Tip: Google Maps is not always as up-to-date as their satellite Section 5: North to Pindaya (± 41 kms) & Ywangan 10 imagery. Revert to the satellite view for road networks when (± 103 kms) from Heho Airport such is missing from maps, or try Maps.me. Use media such as Lonely Planet’s Myanmar guide or Driving in Myanmar Travelfish.org, or hire a guide (your hotel will be able to arrange this) for detailed information—this guide All Yomacarshare rental vehicles are left-hand drive only lists sights and suggests a few restaurants and (right -hand shift) for driving on the right in Myanmar. hotels (upscale USD75+/mid-range USD30–60+). Traffic Speeds are relatively slow. Myanmar drivers are usually polite and often give way, especially outside Before You Arrive & Drive of major cities like Yangon and Mandalay. Due to old policy, more than 80 percent of vehicles Valid Driver’s License are right-hand drive vehicles. This may contribute to You cannot legally drive in Myanmar without a valid uncertainty and greater caution. Approach intersec- international driver’s permit or ASEAN driver’s license. tions and circles cautiously and you will get through. Smart Phone and Navigation Application Lane discipline approaching intersections is good. Your smart phone should be preloaded with Google Drivers do not enter empty left-turn lanes and then ® Maps or other navigation applications. cut back in—they may pass on the inside (right side)! Myanmar Sim Card Sealed main roads are generally good, but uneven Getting a Myanmar sim card on arrival (essential for road surfaces and abrupt gradient changes are com- Google Maps®) is recommended— MPT coverage is mon—never drive faster than the speed limit of 100 good. Wifi in mid-range hotels is often inoperable. kph! Narrow one-lane provincial highways require Removable Device Holder extra care; drivers must slow and put offside wheels (Important!) Bring a detachable holder suitable to on the hard shoulder to pass oncoming traffic! attach your navigation device to the windscreen for Tolls are common on Myanmar’s roads and usually ease of vision and minimal distraction from the road. vary from MMK 200–1000+. Keep plenty of small notes of Myanmar currency to hand in your vehicle. Contents/Planning Your Drive Night Driving should be avoided since unlit vehi- Roads on the Shan Plateau are being continuously cles and other hazards raise the accident risk factor. upgraded and are good by Myanmar’s standards. Gas Stations: Please only top up your tank at new Sealed roads cover the entire area of this drive—only gas stations near large towns. These are less likely to 4-wheel drive vehicles may be taken on unsealed roads. serve contaminated fuel from old storage tanks that can lead to a breakdown of your vehicle! Allow a full day for a journey from Kalaw/Nyaungsh- we to Loikaw. There is higher-end accommodation in Kalaw, Nyaungshwe (Inle), Taunggyi and Loikaw, and Hotline - 09 966235338 (09 YOMAFLEET) inexpensive hotels in Pekon, Pinlaung and Ywangan. Contact: [email protected] Further information: yomacarshare.com There should be little need to drive after dark on routes in this guide. If travel after dark is necessary, Inle & Shan 2 ± 29.5 kms: the Inle Zone Checkpoint is just south Section 1 of the Shwe Nyan Paya. Foreigners must pay US$10. Heho Airport–Nyaungshwe–Inle Lake Inle Zone tickets are valid for 10 days; be ready to show the ticket when you pass Inle Zone checkpoints day or night. ± 32 kms: Nyaungshwe Whether staying in Nyaungshwe or at a luxury resort aside the lake, a car is most useful for driving to scenic places around the lake. Of course, boats are necessary to Nyaungshwe reach many destinations on the lake and surrounding The seat of the local Sawbwa’s, Yawnghwe (the original wetlands. While the 12-kilometer boat journey from Shan name) was one of what the 19th century gazet- Nyaungshwe down a river channel and the northern part teer of Upper Burma, Sir J.G.Scott, famously described of the lake to the main sights is pleasant, it is worth as a “bedlam of snarling Shan states.” Today, Nyaung- driving south to start at better places to begin a boat trip shwe is a tourist center and the main point of entry for such as Main Thauk, where a picturesque wooden Inle Lake. Its pleasant mix of older and modern footbridge goes to a village on stilts (see below). low-rise buildings on the town’s regular grid of streets is interrupted here and there by newer medium-rise Many of the well-known places to visit are in the hotel blocks. Inlets off the river channel are the main wetlands on the southwestern side of the lake. These start point for boat trips. include the Nga Hpe Kyaung—the “Jumping Cat Monastery” and the Phaung Daw Oo Paya (Monas- Nyaungshwe’s center is small enough to walk from tery). Along with the fisherfolk, floating gardens, restau- downtown hotel to temple, market and restaurant, rants, silversmiths, lotus-thread weavers and scenery though a car is useful for cross-town trips to places like reflected in the placid waters of the lake, the monasteries the Nyaungshwe Cultural Museum. The building is and Intha people living in the villages around them make the former palace of Sawbwa Sir Sao Maung, who built Inle Lake unforgettable. it between 1913 and 1923 (for some interesting information about the people who lived in the palace, see Heho Airport–Nyaungshwe (± 32 kms) “Secrets of a Shan Palace” in www2.irrawaddy.com). It is one place not to miss. Highway 4 is a busy route with heavy traffic, and though Eating & Sleeping: Nyaungshwe & Inle Lake it is unavoidable, the distances required to travel along it For Myanmar food in a local atmosphere, try Lin are not great. In parts the road has been upgraded and is Htett. For Myanmar and Shan food to order, Htoo wide and smooth; in others it may be a dusty work in Rayat BBQ and Sun Flower also offer reasonable progress. Construction company tollgates are located value, while the Inlay Hut is recommended for Indian just east of Kalaw and to the west of Taunggyi. Food. There are numerous other local-style restaurants 00 kms: Heho Airport that may similarly offer good food at modest prices. ± 5.5 kms (from Heho Airport): Heho (He Hoe)Town More mid-market restaurants serving a mix of cuisines The road north from the stoplights at the T-junction include The Ancestor Restaurant, Chillax Bistro and is the best route to Pindaya Cave and Ywangan. The Green Chilli, not to forget the in-house restaurants of hotels. Though there are some bars, the streets ± 11.5 kms: Bawa Than Tha Yar Bridge of Nyaungshwe become quiet later in the evening. Halfway down a series of bends where Hwy 4 descends to the valley of Inle Lake, the Kalaw– A few restaurants are located along the road down the Lawksawk railway loops itself on an unprotected east side of the lake, where some of the most sumptu- viaduct (exposed sleepers/no guard railings!) Local ous hotels on Inle are located. These normally receive folks like to walk on it and take selfies. guests who come by boat. Among hotels easily reached by car are (north to south) The Inle Princess Resort, ± 13 kms: Road Junction The Inle Resort and Spa, the Aureum Palace The “Inle Lake Corridor Road West (Google)” Resort & Spa and the high-end Villa Inle Boutique starts abruptly after the final bend of the descent. Resort. ± 20 kms: Shwenyaung: intersection with stoplights In Nyaungshwe, The Manor Hotel Inle, Mingalar Turn south for Nyaungshwe/Inle Lake. N.B. We Inn, Mount Inle Resort, Viewpoint Lodge and recommend fueling up at the new Denko gas station ± 1 km to the south. Inle & Shan 3 White Avenue Hotel are among the many reasonable ± 48 kms: Traffic circle near the Swe Sein Ni Cafe if not good hotels. Cafés surround this atmospheric crossroads. The road east to Hsihseng becomes unsealed (after ± Around Inle Lake 2 kms—not recommended/4WD only). The road west is the start of a pretty route to Pinlaung (rec- South to Samka (Inle Lake East : ± 62 kms) ommended). Continue south for Samka. The sealed road on the east side of the lake first passes ± 62 kms: Samka Village some restaurants and resorts on the route south toward (west turn on unsealed track ± 700m). This village Moebyel Lake. This is also the direct route south to would be like others bounding Moebyel Lake were Loikaw and Pinlaung. it not for a Little Lodge in Samkar. This boutique lodge is a comfortable, relatively upmarket 00 kms: Nyaungshwe base for exploring village life and taking a boat trip (Yammadaw Rd. & Yone Gyi St. junction) across the northern end of the lake to Tharkong ± 4 kms: Red Mountain Estate Vineyards & Pagoda and other places. Tour groups coming by Winery (east turn 500m, 09–18hrs) boat stop for lunch at its airy second-floor restau- ± 7 kms: Inle Heart View Restaurant rant (08-17hrs)—a good place for a meal break. (east turn 400m—highly rated on Trip Advisor) ± 71 kms: sealed road ends (scheduled for upgrading) ± 8.5 kms: Infinity Restaurant A rough, metalled road continues south for 2 kms Turn west for The Inle Princess Resort (500m). to a turn off southwest by a tree, and then a dirt track (another 8 kms) to the southern end of the ± 10 kms: The Inle Resort & Spa Phaya Taung peninsula, where there is a market (west turn, 500m) and the Inlay Sanctuary Resort. The monastery ± 12 kms: Main Thouk/Thauk Wooden Bridge is a local education center. (west turn 300m). More than 400m in length, this South to Shwe Inn Dein Pagoda (Inle Lake West ± 30 kms) picturesque wooden walkway ends at Main Thauk, a village on stilts above the wetland. Three res- Follow Yone Gyi Street from Yammadaw Rd (00 taurants are accessible by walkways directly from kms) across the bridge to begin on this route. the bridge—go to the end restaurant and ask for a ± 5 kms: south turn at T-junction. boat tour around the village—it will be paddled in Follow the “Inle Lake West Corridor Road.” There the signature method of the Intha people. is an Inle Zone checkpoint just to the north of this For motorized boats, negotiate with boatmen junction. awaiting customers at the entrance to the lane ± 9 kms: Khaung Daing Natural Hotspring down to a pay car park and the walkway, but first Segregated pools in a well-appointed setting offer learn elsewhere what a typical boat ride should cost. warm relaxation (US$10/2 hours/person). The lane opposite goes east to Main Thouk Mon- ± 12 kms: Khaung Daing Village astery; the cool inside the pagoda may impress as Known for its production of tofu and noodles, much as the view. Khaung Daing is also the location for three resorts ± 13.5 kms: Aureum Palace Resort & Spa that are directly accessible from the road: these are (north to south), the Pristine Lotus Spa Resort, ± 14.5 kms: Villa Inle Boutique Resort Inle Lake View Resort & the Hu Pin Khaung ± 27.5 kms: Detour to Nampan Village Daing Village Resort Inle Lake. Boat trips on (west turn, 1.5kms). This village is also a good the lake can be arranged from this village. starting point for boat trips and will be especially ± 29.5 kms: junction—unsealed road west (4WD). interesting on market day in the five-day market This route west (unsealed ± 17.5 kms/sealed 11.5 rota held in different locations around Inle lake. kms) passes the Myat Saytaman Traditional ± 35 kms: Fork junction: turn east for Kakku Pagoda. Bamboo House (± 10 kms by road from Shwe The oblique junction with a sealed road east is the Inn Dein), a lodge in Kyauk Su Village serving start of the route to Kakku Pagoda (see page 7/ trekkers on the Kalaw-Inle trekking route. South from Taunggyi to Kakku Pagoda & South to Loikaw via Loisawn). Inle & Shan 4 ± 30.5 kms: Shwe Inn Dein Pagoda ± 34 kms: Kalaw Myoma Market Take time to walk around the old pagodas (stu- N.B. A one-way street system operates anticlock- pas/chedis) of Nyaung Ohak near the entrance wise round the market. Enter via Min Street. to the long, covered walkway leading up to the central shrine in this pagoda. The covered walk- Kalaw way itself is lined with souvenir stalls (the sell is Kalaw is a relatively small town centered on its color- soft) for most of its 600-meter length. With no ful main market; many of the town’s restaurants are restriction as yet on who may donate a pagoda, located nearby. A fair number of the buildings are old, there are already more here at Inn Dein than at but even the new ones are seldom more than two Kakku. Together with the village and waterway stories high. With sealed lanes running between trips through the nearby wetlands (boat trips pine-clad hills to tranquil resorts, several of which are can be arranged from the village), the pagoda is in old colonial-era buildings themselves, Kalaw re- worth the visit, especially on the day the 5-day mains strongly reminiscent of its origins as a hill market rota comes to the village. station for British colonialists fleeing the heat of the plains. In this regard it is a smaller version of Pyin Oo Lwin (formerly Maymyo, the premier hill station in Section 2 colonial times) on the Mandalay–Lashio Road. Heho–Kalaw (± 35 kms) Many visitors like to walk to sights around Kalaw (distances shown are from Kalaw Myoma Market). Apart from possible roadworks and delays in the busy The Thein Taung Paya requires a short climb up a town of Aungpan (Aung Ban), the route to Kalaw covered walkway from just across the main road north from Heho Airport should be straightforward and of the market. Other sights include the old Railway fast. To the west of Aungpan, the scenery of farmed Station (800m), which has a friendly station master uplands changes to one of hills clad with pine trees. and will be interesting if one of the infrequent trains on the line is imminent, and the Hnee Pagoda on a A more scenic but longer route for this journey is to hill (± 3.5 kms) west of town, which features an old go via Pindaya Cave (see section 5, page 10). gilded Buddha image made of lacquered plant matter. ± 00 kms: Heho Airport: turn west on Hwy. 4 Amid the grounds of the military encampment that (Turn east for Pindaya—see p10.) contains the golf course (2 kms + southwest from the market), the Shwe Oo Min Pagoda has a cave full of ± 23 kms: junction with road south to Shwe Inn Dein Buddha images similar to other caves in Myanmar (but ± 24 kms: Aungpan/Aung Ban not to Pindaya and Htem Sann in this drive). Junction with Highway 41 north to Ywangan & Kyaukse: Turn southwest (left) for Kalaw. At least 2–3 days notice will be required to visit the Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp (± 28 kms west Aungpan down Hwy 4 to Payangazu), but trekking companies in town can quickly arrange guides for longer day- Aungpan is the second largest town (after Taunggyi) hikes to Palaung (closest & mainly to the north of in this drive. It is mainly a commercial center for Kalaw), Pa-O, Danu and Taung Yoo villages (mainly trading and transshipping agricultural products from to south). Your car may help you reach convenient the surrounding uplands of the Shan Plateau, but it is starting points for hikes, but 4WD vehicles must be also an education center. It has a large market and used for travel on unsealed roads around Kalaw. there are business-type hotels. While Kalaw is likely to be a more pleasant place to stay, Aungpan’s much Eating & Sleeping in Kalaw busier market should be interesting. Restaurants in Kalaw are generally located within walking distance of the market. For Myanmar and ± 27.5 kms (from Heho Airport): Road junction: other Asian foods, the more genteel Thirighaya 7 Highway 54 south to Pinlaung & Loikaw Sisters is highly rated, though the Thu Maung ± 28 kms: Highway construction company tollbooth restaurant should be good for curries & side dishes in the Myanmar style. Descendants of Indians who came ± 29.5 kms: Side road north to upland villages (unsealed after 3 kms—4WD only) Inle & Shan 5 with the British are numerous in Kalaw and have largest cities in Myanmar, Taunggyi owes its elevated contributed their cuisine to several of the town’s location (more than 1400m a.s.l) to British colonialists better-known restaurants. The Yadana Talkie House who found the local seat of Shan power in Yawnghwe Indian Restaurant has an unusual setting in an old on the plain of Inle Lake below too hot for comfort as a cinema/theater, and the Everest Nepali and the 3 N center of administration. South India restaurants are nearby. The Red House The present-day capital of Shan State, Taunggyi is Bar & Restaurant (European food) is also close by. home to Bamars, Shan, Chinese, Indian and a host of Among the mid-upper range hotels, the Hill Top minorities who have Buddhist, Christian, Muslim and Villa offers views and value, and the Kalaw Heri- other religious affiliations. tage Hotel has a fine old building; its standard Among people living elsewhere in the Shan State, rooms are similarly priced to those of the Pine Hill Taunggyi is primarily known as a place to buy clothes, Resort. The Amara Mountain Resort Kalaw is in though probably not the traditional costumes of more two buildings, one in the original, converted private than 20 ethnic minorities, examples of which can be house and the second in a replica. At the top end is seen in the Shan State Cultural Museum—though the Royal Kalaw Hills Resort, again in a converted such museums may at first appear to be low in content, building that from outside looks like it could be a there is always something or someone that makes a period house in England. visit worthwhile. Just wandering around the shops, market, pagodas and churches should also be interesting, even for those Section 3 familiar with Asian cities. The pagodas and the ridge (± 1800m a.s.l.) overlooking Taunggyi have viewpoints East to Taunggyi & Beyond over vast swathes of the Shan Plateau east and west. Taunggyi is most famous for its Fire Balloon Festival, Distances shown are from Heho Airport—subtract 10 a raucous, climactic two-week event held during the kms if coming from Nyaungshwe. See Section 1 waxing moon in the eighth month of Myanmar’s lunar Heho–Nyaungshwe for the first 20kms of the route calendar. If going to this festival, you should (and will from Heho Airport. have to) park well away from the Awayyar Fire Balloon ± 00 kms: Heho Airport Field, and then walk in or take a taxi. Keep all valuables ± 20 kms: Shwenyaung but essential cash locked in your vehicle (cutpurses and T-junction (traffic lights) with the road south to pickpockets target foreign visitors in the crowds) and Nyaungshwe & Inle Lake don’t get close or downwind when fire balloons are launched, especially those with heavy payloads of ± 21 kms: T-junction with road north to Lawksawk fireworks—this event is hazardous! ± 24 kms: Construction Company Tollgate Eating & Sleeping in Taunggyi ± 26 kms: Aye Tharyar Golf Club (north 500m) Restaurants to try include the Taung Chune and ± 27.5 kms: T-junction—back route to Nyaungshwe Kyeing Ton Restaurants for Burmese food, and the Lotus Thai and Shan Tai for Asian food. ± 29 kms: Highway divides into one-way roads There are many bends on the ascending/descending roads! There are many downtown business-type hotels in the city, though not many look attractive. The Mountain ± 30 kms: Aythaya Wine Resort (ascending road) Star Hotel gets good ratings, while the Royal Taung- The Sunset Wine Garden Restaurant (08:30– gyi Hotel has a grand appearance, but it pales in 22hrs) has a good view over the valley. comparison to high-end places on Inle Lake. ± 35 kms: Ascending & descending roads merge. ± 38 kms: Taunggyi city center Beyond Taunggyi Taunggyi East from Taunggyi to Htem Sann Cave ± 43 kms From Taunggyi, Highway 4 tracks east, but the furthest Aptly named “big mountain,” Taunggyi is a populous this drive goes along this route is Htem Sann Cave. trading center on routes between Thailand (via Kyaing Tong/Kengtung and Takhileik) and China. One of the Inle & Shan 6 There is a tollbooth along this route between Taung- gyi and Hoppong. Section 4 00 kms: Taungyi Myoma Market/Ocean Supercenter South to Loikaw & Pinlaung ± 4 kms: Royal Taunggyi Hotel Just east of the hotel, a side road climbs to the Shwe Pone Pwint and Shwe Modaw Pagodas To go south to Loikaw via Loisawn on Highway 5, and viewpoints on the ridge overlooking the city. go via Taunggyi as described above. Alternatively, ± 20.5 kms: Hoppong, junction with Highway 5 drive directly south from Nyaungshwe on the east side of Lake Inle for ±35 kms and then take the ± 43 kms: Htem Sann Cave sealed road east to Loisawn. Formed by an underground stream, the accessible part of Htem Sann Cave is perhaps 150m To return from Loikaw, take Highway 41 via Pin- or more in length and has many pretty stalactites, laung, which, after following the Myoebyel Lake, though these do not appear to have the shiny crys- ascends into the folds of the craggy limestone range talline formations of a living cave. Buddha images west of the lakes. have been artfully placed among the stalactites dripping from the ceiling on each side of a tiled South to Loikaw via Loisawn walkway traversing the well-lit interior. Though there are many images to which devotees may pay Highway 5 to Loikaw is a recently upgraded and obeisance, they are not so numerous as to distract generally smooth, though not particularly wide road. from the impressive calcareous formations. It passes two small towns, following a route down However, the 43-km route to the cave does not a vale as far as Hsihseng before entering more hilly pass anything especially different to what has gone country on the approach to Loikaw. before. Accordingly, foreign visitors must decide whether it is worth going there and paying local For the first ± 35 kms of the route south from religious authorities US$20/head to see the cave. Nyaungshwe to the fork junction on the Nyaungsh- we-Pinlaung Road, see “Around Inle Lake/South South from Taunggyi to Kakku Pagoda (± 44 kms) to Samka” (page 4). From Taunggyi, the drive south gradually descends, 00 kms: Fork junction on Pinlaung-Loisawn Rd. passing upand villages and Kakku Pagoda on a route ± 35 kms from Nyaungshwe. Take the road to Loisawn and Highway 5 south to Loikaw. northeast to Loisawn. 00 kms: Taunggyi Myoma Market/Ocean Supercenter ± 15 kms: Kyauktalonegyi ± 3.5 kms: (Last) Turn south for the route to Kakku. ± 27 kms: Keep right (southeast) at junction. ± 37 kms: Keep left (east) at fork junction. ± 29 kms: Saung Pho Village ± 44 kms: Kakku Pagoda ± 34 kms: Junction at village (Lwe Sa) The number of pagodas permitted has been fro- Detour north for Kakku Pagoda (6 kms, see zen at 2478. With a US$3 entrance fee, visitors pay page 7) and Hlaing Konn Pa-O Restaurant. 0.12 cents per pagoda to enjoy such a concentra- tion of one of the most elegant Buddhist forms. ± 42.5/00 kms: Loisawn Turn south on Highway 5. The Hlaing Konn Pa-O National Restaurant is in the grove of trees west of the pagoda complex. 00 kms: Loisawn It has good online ratings. ± 20.5 Kms: fork junction in Hsihseng For the onward journey to Loikaw or a return to Bear left (southeast). Nyaungshwe, continue south past Kakku Pagoda, ± 55 kms: bridge/checkpoint/Kayah State boundary cross the railway and drive south. ± 55.5 kms: village & detour to Htee Sel Kar Falls ±50 kms. T-junction with Nampan–Kyauktalone- Turn east (left) at any of the roads in this village gi–Loisawn Road at the village of Lwe Sa Loisawn is ± 8.5 kms to the east. Inle & Shan 7 for a road to a pretty spot on the south side of There are a several mid-range and higher-end places to these low falls (±1500m from highway). Drinks stay. At the lower end but away from the center of and food are available at local stalls. town is the reliable Loikaw Princess, while the ± 58 kms: Kong Pyek Famous Hotel is one of several with mid-market convenience near the center of town. At the top end ± 70 kms: detour east to Aung Thar Pyae Cave (500m) are the Loikaw Lodge Hotel and Cafe (try their This cave may be around 200m long and has the restaurant) and the Kayah Resort, which overlook the customary Buddha images in various niches. Take Htay Nga Lia Lake. a torch (phone) should the lights go out for any reason at this less visited cave. Around Loikaw ± 71.5 kms: junction with Highway 41 at Tun Nyu About 200m south of this intersection, a new Though Loikaw is a pleasant town, there might not Denko Gas Station is a reliable place to fuel up. seem quite enough reason to visit were it not for Kayah State’s ethnic minorities living in the surround- ± 78.5 Junction: both routes go to Loikaw ing areas; many but not all of these people would be ± 82 kms: Loikaw Clocktower described as Karenni or Kayan. Turn west (right) for places on the north side of Most famous are the Kayah/Padaung, the “long- the river. The market center is across the river to neck” Karen, who originate from this area but who the south. can also be seen in Thailand, living in tourism-oriented encampments having either fled adverse conditions in Loikaw Myanmar or (more recently) gone there for economic betterment. Those who remain near Loikaw (a few With a population of around 130,000, Kayah State’s have returned from Thailand) appear to receive capital is less than half the size of Taunggyi. Located foreign visitors willingly. on a bend on the Pilu River, it is also much lower (± 880m a.s.l.) Its commercial center is fairly small, though Visiting the Padaung (their preferred name is Kayah) low-rise developments in the suburbs are spreading villages on sealed roads is straightforward, and there outwards. The town and surrounds have quite a strong are other places that can be visited along the route. Christian presence due to the relative success of Taking a guide for the day becomes very useful for missionaries in converting upland folks. communicating with ethnic peoples. Amazing Kayah More a medium-sized town than a city, Loikaw is easy Travel & Tours, Treasure Time Travel & Tours or to drive around. The most visible physical feature is the your hotel can arrange guide services. karst and precarious-looking pagodas of the Taung To visit the Padaung/Kayah, take the road from Kwe Pagoda. They overlook the center of town from Loikaw to Demoso. the south and are good places from which to watch sunrises and sunsets. Other things to see in town are 00 kms: Loikaw, Taung Kwe Pagoda the Thiri Mingalarpon Kyaung, a monastery that is ± 13 kms: Detour to Umbrella Pond & Seven Lakes the former palace of Kayah’s saopha (Princess; the Turn south (left in direction of travel west): monastery is near Shwe Lin Tan Noodle on Google ± 3,5 kms: Htee Pwint Pond: rising gas causes Maps), the Catholic complex around Christ the King sediment to expand over days into umbrella-like Cathedral, the morning market and possibly the bulges before releasing gas and subsiding. cultural museum. One seeming anomaly in the town ± 8.5 kms: Kayah village: a community-based is the large size of the railway station building relative tourism (CBT) project liaises with villagers but a to frequency of trains (± one per day). Burmese-language speaker is required. Eating & Sleeping: Loikaw ± 10 kms: Seven Lakes. A local picnic spot with The Pho Kwar restaurant is a reliable spot on the river, a traditional house by one of seven small lakes. but the Golden Lion Restaurant and Mingalar ± 15.5 kms: Road junction by Ngwe Taung Dam Traditional Food get better ratings. Also try the Go west (right) on the Demoso–Taungoo Road Amazing Bar, a modern Thai-style sports bar (with a for Padaung/Kayah villages. large screen for football matches), which serves food and drink on a rooftop with a view over the town. Inle & Shan 8 Detour south (left) to go to the Marcopolo Res- ascends to a communications mast and pagoda on an taurant (± 3kms) on Highway 5 to Hpruso. 1800m peak; there are fine views from there. ± 23 kms: Taw Kyat Taung Pagoda Silver pagodas perch on a karst like birds on a rock. Eating & Sleeping: Pinlaung Pinlaung is not a place many would naturally choose ± 33.5 kms: Turn northwest on a sealed side road. to stay, but the small town has its charms, and it is a ± 2kms Pan Pet, the first of five Kayah/Padaung useful resting point if night approaches and the next (long-neck) villages in the next 5 kms on this road. destination is too far. The best-rated places to eat are N.B. The main road continues on a road of uncer- the San Nan Daw and Pin Lon restaurants, but any tain condition on a very long (Taungoo, 240 kms) of the small restaurants along the high street should winding route through remote mountainous coun- provide good food. The Hotel Pin Laung and try. In the event of a mishap, recovery could take Wine Wine Lae Motel offer low mid-market rooms more than a day. Yomacarshare vehicles should of similar quality, the former being away from the not be taken on this route! center and the latter on the high street.

Loikaw–Pinlaung North from Pinlaung Highway 54 north varies in quality. Some sections Highway 54 climbs out of Pinlaung over a low pass near Moebyel Lake are older, the narrow single-lane and descends. to a broad upland vale. Near the foot requiring oncoming traffic to go onto the hard of the descent (± 83kms from Tun Nyu/± 2.5 kms shoulder). Further north in the highlands, the road is from Pinlaung), the narrow road to Nyaungshwe/ slightly wider and generally better. Taunggyi forks northeast (right). 00 kms: Loikaw Clocktower Pinlaung–Highway 4 near Aungpan (± 68 kms) ± 11/00 kms: junction with Highway 41 & 5 Highway 54 ontinues north through several Shan vil- Turn west (left) at this junction after topping gas lages in a broad, populous upland vale, joining High- up at the Denko Gas Station nearby if necessary. way 4 between Kalaw and Aungpan (see page 5). Distances to Pinlaung are from this junction. 00 kms: Pinlaung ± 11.5 kms: detour north for Moebyel Dam (5 kms) ± 2.5 kms: junction with road northeast to Nyaungshwe ± 17.5 kms: Moe Bye ± 21 kms: Naungtayar ± 27.5 kms: Jeroblo Marian Shrine This Christian shrine is ±200m from the road at ± 36 kms: slightly industrial ambience a scenic spot where the road is close to the lake. There is a coalfield east of the highway. The Bamboo House Restaurant and another ± 68 kms: triangular junction with Highway 4 restaurant are near this location. Kalaw is 6.5 kms to the west. ± 31 kms: Pekon Pinlaung–Nyaungshwe (± 78 kms) The mid-range Pekon Princess Resort is by the lake. The narrow road to Nyaungshwe crosses over three ± 45 kms: Highway 54 climbs from the lake to the uplands. ridges before dropping down to the lakes. ± 76.5 kms: Junction with road to Naypyitaw (± 153 kms) 00 kms: Junction with Highway 54 ± 2.5 kms from Pinlaung ± 80.5 kms: Pinlaung ± 16.5 kms (from Highwy 54): crossroads start of circular route north to Naungtayar Pinlaung ± 27 kms: traffic circle (see page 4/Around Inle Wedged in a narrow upland valley between limestone Lake/South to Samka). Nyaungshwe is ± 48kms to ridges, Pinlaung provides the opportunity for a look the north. at life in a small Shan town on an upland crossroads. Things to see are not much different from other Shan towns (pagodas, the market), but its setting within ridges topped by stupas helps create a special atmosphere. A sealed lane past the Hotel Pin Laung Inle & Shan 9 The approach to the cave on Shwe Oo Min Pagoda street from Pindaya Lake passes some fine old trees, Section 5 where local folk like to take pony rides. The town’s North to Pindaya & Ywangan location and the lake at the foot of the ridge to the west create a pleasant ambience. From the stoplights in Heho Town, a road north Eating & Sleeping: Pindaya links to two sealed roads that track west through The Green Tea Restaurant and Golden Moon upland scenery to both Pindaya Cave and Ywan- Restaurant are among the reputedly good restau- gan. These roads pass through villages and farming rants in Pindaya. The Pindaya Inle Inn also gets country where Pa-O and other upland peoples grow reasonable ratings. sesame, soya, corn, sugarcane, cabbages and other products to be trucked to Mandalay and Yangon. Highway 41–Ywangan The route from Heho to Pindaya and down to Aung- pan is a scenic alternative (± 75 kms) to Highway 4 The cross-country route to Highway 411 to Ywangan between Heho and Aungpan (± 25.5 kms). continues through pastoral landscape from Hwy 41. ± 00 kms junction on Highway 41 Heho–Pindaya (26.5 kms from Heho/± 28 kms from Aungpan) 00 kms: T-junction with stoplights in Heho Town. ± 11.5 /00 kms: T-junction with Highway 411 Turn north (right) for Ywangan (± 40 kms), ± 10 kms. Intersection with sealed road west south for Aungpan (± 30.5 kms). Distances north Turn west (left) for Ywangan and Pindaya. are from this point. The second road to Pindaya tracks west ± 19.5 kms on the road north from Heho. ± 5 kms from junction (± 35.5 kms from Aungpan) Detour to Main Ma Ye Thakinma Taung ± 23.5 kms. Junction with Highway 41 to Lawksawk Pagoda (300m) to look at the nine large standing Turn north (right) for Pindaya (±13.5 kms). Buddha images and climb steps for views from Turn southwest (left) for Aungpan (± 25.5 kms). the top of the karst. ± 26.5 kms. Junction with minor sealed road west. ± 13 kms: Detour west to the Blue Water Lagoon Continue north on Highway 41 for Pindaya. & Taw Gyal Falls (± 1750m) just north of Turn west (left) for route to Ywangan. Nyaungbingwa Villlage. These are pleasant but rel- ± 34 kms: side road west to Pindaya Cave atively small attractions. Turn west and continue straight. Do not turn left ± 26 kms: Detour right for a rural route. at intersection after ± 1 km as this is a one-way The route goes through villages at the foot of hills route down from the car park near the cave. to the east before rejoining Hwy 411. ± 36 kms: Pindaya Cave car park. ± 40 kms: Ywangan Ywangan is a center for coffee growing. The Pindaya Shwe Gue Gu Hotel and Genius Coffee Pro- duction can arrange tours/treks to villages and At the entrance to Pindaya Cave, a sculpture of a Padalin Cave. prince firing an arrow at a spider refers to a legend in which the prince rescues a distressed princess impris- Happy & safe driving! oned in the cave by the spider. A walkway near this entrance leads to a monastery. The 9,000 Buddha images accumulated in the cave since the mid-17th century have reached such density that no more are allowed—passage between them can be single file and natural features like stalactites Hotline - 09 966235338 (09 YOMAFLEET) may seem obscured. One of the images in the cave Contact: [email protected] has the name of Senior Gen. Than Shwe on it. Further information: yomacarshare.com