Worldclass Drives Myanmar
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WORLDCLASS DRIVES MYANMAR 41 Inle Lake Lawksawk & Coffee & Trekking Ywangan The Southern Shan 41 SHAN 5 Panpyet Highlands 411 Blue Water 43 Highlights Pond Pindaya The Intha people who live and farm Min Ma Ye cave Thakinma Htem Sann on the waters of Inle Lake depend 5 Taung Shwe- Taunggyi Cave entirely on boats to get around, Green Hill nyaung wine 4 making their wetland home a Valley magical place to visit. Elephant C. HEH 1 Hoppong 3 The Intha are just one of many 41 Heho Nyaung- 4 2 shwe different peoples living in the Shan 2 Khaung Namhkok uplands, a scenic area more than 800 Aungpan Daing wine Kalaw Maing 3 5 meters above sea level. Inle Thouk Lake Kakku The cooler upland clime helped 54 1 Pagoda Banyin establish Kalaw as a hill station Nampan during the colonial period; it re- Shwe Inn Dein mains an attractive hill resort today. Pagoda Like Nyaungshwe near Inle Lake, it SHAN 4 is a good base for touring the sur- Naungtayar Loisawn rounding valleys, where ethnic NAYPYITAW 4 peoples live in watersheds separated Union 1 by folds of hills and rugged karsts. Territory Hsihseng 4 These ethnic groups are clearly Pinlaung Samkar identified in The Shan State Cultural Museum in Taunggyi, the lively Shan Phaya 5 State capital high in the hills to the Taung N east of Inle Lake. If visiting during Loi Paw the cool season (Dec-Feb), you may Moebyel Htee Sel need to emulate local people and go Kar Falls there to buy some warm clothing. 0 kilometers 25 Pekon Kong Pyek 54 A road trip south to Loikaw (± 150 KAYAH kms), the capital of Kayah State, can Aung Tha follow a loop that encompasses the Moe Bye Pyae Cave 1 Section in drive 4 full variety of scenery in the Shan LIW uplands as well as the wealth of Main sights Padaung ethnic minorities living there. Suggested Routes (long-neck) Loikaw Villages Sealed Road/Highway If planning to go no further south Demoso than Samkar and Pinlaung, or Unsealed (4WD only) Htee Pwint north to the famed cave at Pindaya, you will still see much of what the Shan Plateau has to offer. however, drive very slowly and cautiously—pedestrians, About this Guide roadworks, vehicles without lights and other unlit hazards are common! This guide is designed to make self-drive touring in Page Myanmar easier and must be used together with an Section 1: Heho Airport to Nyaungshwe (± 33 kms) 3 online navigation application—though we recommend & Inle Lake Area (Inn Dein/Samkar ± 33/78 kms Google Maps® in general (especially satellite view), Section 2: Heho Airport to Kalaw (± 37 kms) 5 Maps.me using OpenStreetMap data may at times be Section 3: East to Taungyi & beyond (± 31–71 kms) 6 better. This guide uses Google Maps® spelling conven- Section 4: South to Loikaw & Pinlaung tions for place names and distances, but actual distanc- 7 Nyaungshwe–Kakku–Loikaw ± 200kms: es from those shown in this guide may vary (±) by Loikaw–Pinlaung ± 90 kms: Pinlaung–Kalaw/ 2.5kms depending on starting point. Nyaungshwe ±78 kms) Tip: Google Maps is not always as up-to-date as their satellite Section 5: North to Pindaya (± 41 kms) & Ywangan 10 imagery. Revert to the satellite view for road networks when (± 103 kms) from Heho Airport such is missing from maps, or try Maps.me. Use media such as Lonely Planet’s Myanmar guide or Driving in Myanmar Travelfish.org, or hire a guide (your hotel will be able to arrange this) for detailed information—this guide All Yomacarshare rental vehicles are left-hand drive only lists sights and suggests a few restaurants and (right -hand shift) for driving on the right in Myanmar. hotels (upscale USD75+/mid-range USD30–60+). Traffic Speeds are relatively slow. Myanmar drivers are usually polite and often give way, especially outside Before You Arrive & Drive of major cities like Yangon and Mandalay. Due to old policy, more than 80 percent of vehicles Valid Driver’s License are right-hand drive vehicles. This may contribute to You cannot legally drive in Myanmar without a valid uncertainty and greater caution. Approach intersec- international driver’s permit or ASEAN driver’s license. tions and circles cautiously and you will get through. Smart Phone and Navigation Application Lane discipline approaching intersections is good. Your smart phone should be preloaded with Google Drivers do not enter empty left-turn lanes and then ® Maps or other navigation applications. cut back in—they may pass on the inside (right side)! Myanmar Sim Card Sealed main roads are generally good, but uneven Getting a Myanmar sim card on arrival (essential for road surfaces and abrupt gradient changes are com- Google Maps®) is recommended— MPT coverage is mon—never drive faster than the speed limit of 100 good. Wifi in mid-range hotels is often inoperable. kph! Narrow one-lane provincial highways require Removable Device Holder extra care; drivers must slow and put offside wheels (Important!) Bring a detachable holder suitable to on the hard shoulder to pass oncoming traffic! attach your navigation device to the windscreen for Tolls are common on Myanmar’s roads and usually ease of vision and minimal distraction from the road. vary from MMK 200–1000+. Keep plenty of small notes of Myanmar currency to hand in your vehicle. Contents/Planning Your Drive Night Driving should be avoided since unlit vehi- Roads on the Shan Plateau are being continuously cles and other hazards raise the accident risk factor. upgraded and are good by Myanmar’s standards. Gas Stations: Please only top up your tank at new Sealed roads cover the entire area of this drive—only gas stations near large towns. These are less likely to 4-wheel drive vehicles may be taken on unsealed roads. serve contaminated fuel from old storage tanks that can lead to a breakdown of your vehicle! Allow a full day for a journey from Kalaw/Nyaungsh- we to Loikaw. There is higher-end accommodation in Kalaw, Nyaungshwe (Inle), Taunggyi and Loikaw, and Hotline - 09 966235338 (09 YOMAFLEET) inexpensive hotels in Pekon, Pinlaung and Ywangan. Contact: [email protected] Further information: yomacarshare.com There should be little need to drive after dark on routes in this guide. If travel after dark is necessary, Inle & Shan 2 ± 29.5 kms: the Inle Zone Checkpoint is just south Section 1 of the Shwe Nyan Paya. Foreigners must pay US$10. Heho Airport–Nyaungshwe–Inle Lake Inle Zone tickets are valid for 10 days; be ready to show the ticket when you pass Inle Zone checkpoints day or night. ± 32 kms: Nyaungshwe Whether staying in Nyaungshwe or at a luxury resort aside the lake, a car is most useful for driving to scenic places around the lake. Of course, boats are necessary to Nyaungshwe reach many destinations on the lake and surrounding The seat of the local Sawbwa’s, Yawnghwe (the original wetlands. While the 12-kilometer boat journey from Shan name) was one of what the 19th century gazet- Nyaungshwe down a river channel and the northern part teer of Upper Burma, Sir J.G.Scott, famously described of the lake to the main sights is pleasant, it is worth as a “bedlam of snarling Shan states.” Today, Nyaung- driving south to start at better places to begin a boat trip shwe is a tourist center and the main point of entry for such as Main Thauk, where a picturesque wooden Inle Lake. Its pleasant mix of older and modern footbridge goes to a village on stilts (see below). low-rise buildings on the town’s regular grid of streets is interrupted here and there by newer medium-rise Many of the well-known places to visit are in the hotel blocks. Inlets off the river channel are the main wetlands on the southwestern side of the lake. These start point for boat trips. include the Nga Hpe Kyaung—the “Jumping Cat Monastery” and the Phaung Daw Oo Paya (Monas- Nyaungshwe’s center is small enough to walk from tery). Along with the fisherfolk, floating gardens, restau- downtown hotel to temple, market and restaurant, rants, silversmiths, lotus-thread weavers and scenery though a car is useful for cross-town trips to places like reflected in the placid waters of the lake, the monasteries the Nyaungshwe Cultural Museum. The building is and Intha people living in the villages around them make the former palace of Sawbwa Sir Sao Maung, who built Inle Lake unforgettable. it between 1913 and 1923 (for some interesting infor- mation about the people who lived in the palace, see Heho Airport–Nyaungshwe (± 32 kms) “Secrets of a Shan Palace” in www2.irrawaddy.com). It is one place not to miss. Highway 4 is a busy route with heavy traffic, and though Eating & Sleeping: Nyaungshwe & Inle Lake it is unavoidable, the distances required to travel along it For Myanmar food in a local atmosphere, try Lin are not great. In parts the road has been upgraded and is Htett. For Myanmar and Shan food to order, Htoo wide and smooth; in others it may be a dusty work in Rayat BBQ and Sun Flower also offer reasonable progress. Construction company tollgates are located value, while the Inlay Hut is recommended for Indian just east of Kalaw and to the west of Taunggyi. Food. There are numerous other local-style restaurants 00 kms: Heho Airport that may similarly offer good food at modest prices. ± 5.5 kms (from Heho Airport): Heho (He Hoe)Town More mid-market restaurants serving a mix of cuisines The road north from the stoplights at the T-junction include The Ancestor Restaurant, Chillax Bistro and is the best route to Pindaya Cave and Ywangan.