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WWD Ad-Edit Template.Indt ADVERTISEMENT WWD5IVSTEBZ 4FQUFNCFS t8PNFOT8FBS%BJMZt APPAREL BELTS FRAGRANCE FOOTWEAR HANDBAGS JEWELRY OUTERWEAR SUNWEAR FRAGRANCE FOOTWEAR HANDBAGS JEWELRY BELTS APPAREL VINCE CAMUTO STORE OPENING SOON GRAND CENTRAL TERMINAL, NY APPAREL BELTS FRAGRANCE FOOTWEAR HANDBAGS JEWELRY OUTERWEAR SUNWEAR SPECIAL REPORT A LOOK AT NEW YORK’S GARMENT CENTER, PAST AND PRESENT. SECTION II L PLUS: MEN’S DESIGNERS GET READY FOR THE SHOWS. MW PAGE ONE Group Dynamics While today is the official start of New York Fashion Week, more than a few designers got a head start on Wednesday. One standout collection was Organic by John Patrick, which was full of terrific, uncomplicated clothes (yes, they’re still earth- friendly) rooted in a soft white and sandy palette. For more collections, see page 10. WWDWOMEN’S WEAR DAILY QTHURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 Q $3.00 COLLECTIONS 2012 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN NEWSPRING YORK IN WWD TODAY THE LAGERFELD LINE The Colors of Spring PAGE 6 L FASHION: Pantone’s key colors Karl Does Macy’s, and Crowds Appear for spring 2012 — and yellow and orange are back again. Macy’s might surprise some By DAVID MOIN observers, he pointed out that Target Aims Big he was the first to do H&M in a With Missoni PAGE 4 NEW YORK — “Who wants any- move that blazed a trail for major thing that is usual?” designers to do tie-ups with mass RETAIL: The discounter unveils Certainly not Karl Lagerfeld, retailers. In addition, depart- its Missoni for Target pop-up which explains his latest tie- ment stores are not foreign terri- store today and believes the line up — a capsule collection for tory for him. “I know everything could be its most successful Macy’s. And hundreds of others about American department fashion collaboration yet. appear to agree with Lagerfeld’s stores,” he said. “European de- decision, mobbing the Herald signers all landed in America Retailers’ Message: Square flagship’s second-floor through department stores. Jean Caution Reigns PAGE 12 Impulse department on Tuesday Rosenberg [of Bendel’s fame], FINANCIAL: Retailers across night to see the designer and Philip Miller [who ran Saks Fifth the price spectrum have seen a shop through the line. He ap- Avenue and Marshall Field’s] — strong back-to-school season, peared humbled. these were great retailers, great but the economic storm clouds “It’s very flattering,” people. My name was made in have them wary. Lagerfeld said. “I was surprised America by department stores. at how much of the very young I have a certain weakness for public was here.” department stores.” At the moment, it was difficult Lagerfeld said there was a to take in the Macy’s ambience. certain “unreality” working “You cannot have an impression with Macy’s this year to create if you have people on every the collection, but he did his side screaming your name,” thing, taking an approach that Lagerfeld said. was anything but too focused on An Impulse display at Macy’s. While Karl Lagerfeld at STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY SEE PAGE 14 WWD.COM De la Renta Takes to Tumblr OSCAR DE LA RENTA is boosting its Web presence for fashion week thanks to Tumblr. Leading up to its live-stream on Sept. 13, Tumblr created a page at odlrlive.tumblr.com where any image uploaded to Tumblr and tagged with #odlrlive will feed onto the page in real time. For the first time, the luxury brand is calling upon the community and its fan base to help generate live coverage surrounding its spring runway show. “Social media represents a fundamental shift in the nature of communication from a monologue to a dialogue,” said Oscar de la Renta’s chief executive officer, Alex Bolen. “This shift becomes im- pactful when brands can successfully integrate that dialogue into their DNA. Our social community tells us what they see, what they Broad Appeal think, and what they expect from us. Consumers Drawn to Seasonless Styles “We believe social media will continue to evolve into more direct collaboration. We think that this is a very interesting, new way to engage with customers or potential ones.” onsumers are shopping more shrewdly than buying beautiful, well-made pieces that will last over According to vice president of communications Erika Bearman — ever. They cross-check products and pricing time, and supplementing with directional pieces each perhaps most well known as OscarPRGirl, the brand’s social media before they head to stores, and arrive armed season.” personality — the platform will create a quilt effect on the page, engag- C ing editors, bloggers, models and anyone watching the show live who with smartphones as backup. They want products On average, women expect their denim jeans and uploads an image to the platform with the specific tag. The brand is that wear well and are on trend for as long as possible. dress shirts to last about four years, casual pants, encouraging anyone with a Tumblr account to add content to the page. So advances the concept of “seasonless dressing.” T-shirts, athletic pants, shorts, and shirts to last about “The idea is that with the help of the Tumblr community, we will Dillard’s Jerry Talamantes, spokesperson, says three years, and bras, socks, and underwear to last create a unique visual representation of the show — Oscar’s vision for shoppers are looking for something that travels well roughly two years, the Monitor survey finds. the runway, set against the different perspectives of all those experi- for business or pleasure, that can be easily dressed While some may think of seasonless dressing as encing it,” Bearman told WWD, adding that the concept for #odlrlive up and is comfortable most wearing white after Labor is based upon having a single page where all of the images uploaded to Tumblr at and around the show are aggregated — in the very same anywhere. Day or wearing no hosiery in [Seasonless] has to do place that the brand hosts the live-stream of the runway. “Those are key elements “ January, the notion goes far The Odlr Live Tumblr page goes live Friday and will host the that lead the shopper to think, with functionality and beyond that. live-stream of the show at 6 p.m. on Sept. 13. — RACHEL STRUGATZ ‘Well, gosh, am I going to get the idea that she made Barney’s Simon Doonan it or not?” says Talamantes. “I a smart purchase—and wryly remarks, “We live in the SECTORS IN THIS ISSUE can wear it 11 months out of that resonates more than era of Lady Gaga. Seasonless the year. And it is a color I can dressing is wearing a fur coat anything. work with something else.’ It ” with a bikini underneath.” RETAIL 1,4,14,MW2 FINANCIAL 4,12,14,MW2 has to do with functionality and But the reality of seasonless INTERNET 2 MEDIA 12 the idea that she made a smart Jerry Talamantes, Dillard’s merchandising is multi- FASHION 2,8,9,10,MW1,MW3 PEOPLE 15 purchase—and that resonates faceted. “The old system of more than anything.” stodgy fall clothes and floaty summer chiffons is too Although retailers roll out product long before limiting,” Doonan says. “Women today are looking DAILY QUOTE consumers can or will use them (e.g., wool coats in for more eccentricity and self-expression.” August), more than two-thirds of women (68%) One way to approach seasonless dressing is buy their latest apparel styles on sale at the end of through layering. It’s very flattering. I was the season, according to the Cotton Incorporated “Layering allows you to wear the items that you Lifestyle Monitor™ Survey. want,” Doonan says. “You can wear a gypsy blouse surprised at how much of the Women ages 25-to-70 are significantly more likely to the Arctic. You just need a puffer coat to throw than women 13-24 to buy on sale at the end of the over it.” very young public was here. season (72% versus 56%). On the other hand, women Another layering approach is Lord & Taylor’s making $75,000 or more per year are less likely than “3-in-1” top from Calvin Klein that features a — KARL LAGERFELD ON THE TURNOUT AT women making less per year to wait to buy (64% printed top over a tank that’s sequined at the hem. MACY’S HERALD SQUARE FOR THE LAUNCH OF HIS IMPULSE COLLECTION. PAGE ONE versus 70%), the Monitor survey finds. The pieces can be worn separately or together. And At Seattle-based Mario’s, Erin Jones, women’s they can be paired with one of the season’s shrugs, manager, says there’s been a steady rise in seasonless scarves or cardigans. dressing. “This seems to Seasonless also means TODAY ON WWD.COM be driven by street style, fabrics that work year-round. Q collection trends and, of When The Latest Styles of Clothing Cotton alone works with EYE: See pictures from the One Management 10th course, budget.” are Purchased, Among Women the seasonless blueprint via anniversary party and the L e s s t h a n one -t h i rd wardrobe staples like the At the beginning of a season Kardashian Kollection event at (31%) of women are “very or On sale at the end of a season perfect white shirt, trousers, WWD.com/eye. somewhat optimistic” about Don’t know knit tops, sweaters and QFASHION: New York Fashion Week the U.S. economy, down denim. coverage kicks off at WWD.com/runway. significantly from 39% last 68% 70% “A woman should probably QMARKETS: More looks year.
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