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 WWD APPAREL BELTS FRAGRANCE FOOTWEAR HANDBAGS JEWELRY OUTERWEAR SUNWEAR SPECIAL REPORT A LOOK AT NEW YORK’S GARMENT CENTER, PAST AND PRESENT. SECTION II L PLUS: MEN’S DESIGNERS GET READY FOR THE SHOWS. MW PAGE ONE Group Dynamics While today is the official start of New York Fashion Week, more than a few designers got a head start on Wednesday. One standout collection was Organic by John Patrick, which was full of terrific, uncomplicated clothes (yes, they’re still earth- friendly) rooted in a soft white and sandy palette. For more collections, see page 10. WWDWOMEN’S WEAR DAILY QTHURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 Q $3.00

COLLECTIONS 2012 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN NEWSPRING YORK

IN WWD TODAY THE LAGERFELD LINE

The Colors of Spring PAGE 6 L FASHION: Pantone’s key colors Karl Does Macy’s, and Crowds Appear for spring 2012 — and yellow and orange are back again. Macy’s might surprise some By DAVID MOIN observers, he pointed out that Target Aims Big he was the first to do H&M in a With Missoni PAGE 4 NEW YORK — “Who wants any- move that blazed a trail for major thing that is usual?” designers to do tie-ups with mass RETAIL: The discounter unveils Certainly not Karl Lagerfeld, retailers. In addition, depart- its Missoni for Target pop-up which explains his latest tie- ment stores are not foreign terri- store today and believes the line up — a capsule collection for tory for him. “I know everything could be its most successful Macy’s. And hundreds of others about American department fashion collaboration yet. appear to agree with Lagerfeld’s stores,” he said. “European de- decision, mobbing the Herald signers all landed in America Retailers’ Message: Square flagship’s second-floor through department stores. Jean Caution Reigns PAGE 12 Impulse department on Tuesday Rosenberg [of Bendel’s fame], FINANCIAL: Retailers across night to see the designer and Philip Miller [who ran Saks Fifth the price spectrum have seen a shop through the line. He ap- Avenue and Marshall Field’s] — strong back-to-school season, peared humbled. these were great retailers, great but the economic storm clouds “It’s very flattering,” people. My name was made in have them wary. Lagerfeld said. “I was surprised America by department stores. at how much of the very young I have a certain weakness for public was here.” department stores.” At the moment, it was difficult Lagerfeld said there was a to take in the Macy’s ambience. certain “unreality” working “You cannot have an impression with Macy’s this year to create if you have people on every the collection, but he did his side screaming your name,” thing, taking an approach that Lagerfeld said. was anything but too focused on An Impulse display at Macy’s. While Karl Lagerfeld at STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY SEE PAGE 14 WWD.COM De la Renta Takes to Tumblr OSCAR DE LA RENTA is boosting its Web presence for fashion week thanks to Tumblr. Leading up to its live-stream on Sept. 13, Tumblr created a page at odlrlive.tumblr.com where any image uploaded to Tumblr and tagged with #odlrlive will feed onto the page in real time. For the first time, the luxury brand is calling upon the community and its fan base to help generate live coverage surrounding its spring runway show. “Social media represents a fundamental shift in the nature of communication from a monologue to a dialogue,” said Oscar de la Renta’s chief executive officer, Alex Bolen. “This shift becomes im- pactful when brands can successfully integrate that dialogue into their DNA. Our social community tells us what they see, what they Broad Appeal think, and what they expect from us. Consumers Drawn to Seasonless Styles “We believe social media will continue to evolve into more direct collaboration. We think that this is a very interesting, new way to engage with customers or potential ones.” onsumers are shopping more shrewdly than buying beautiful, well-made pieces that will last over According to vice president of communications Erika Bearman — ever. They cross-check products and pricing time, and supplementing with directional pieces each perhaps most well known as OscarPRGirl, the brand’s social media before they head to stores, and arrive armed season.” personality — the platform will create a quilt effect on the page, engag- C ing editors, bloggers, models and anyone watching the show live who with smartphones as backup. They want products On average, women expect their denim jeans and uploads an image to the platform with the specific tag. The brand is that wear well and are on trend for as long as possible. dress shirts to last about four years, casual pants, encouraging anyone with a Tumblr account to add content to the page. So advances the concept of “seasonless dressing.” T-shirts, athletic pants, shorts, and shirts to last about “The idea is that with the help of the Tumblr community, we will Dillard’s Jerry Talamantes, spokesperson, says three years, and bras, socks, and underwear to last create a unique visual representation of the show — Oscar’s vision for shoppers are looking for something that travels well roughly two years, the Monitor survey finds. the runway, set against the different perspectives of all those experi- for business or pleasure, that can be easily dressed While some may think of seasonless dressing as encing it,” Bearman told WWD, adding that the concept for #odlrlive up and is comfortable most wearing white after Labor is based upon having a single page where all of the images uploaded to Tumblr at and around the show are aggregated — in the very same anywhere. Day or wearing no hosiery in [Seasonless] has to do place that the brand hosts the live-stream of the runway. “Those are key elements “ January, the notion goes far The Odlr Live Tumblr page goes live Friday and will host the that lead the shopper to think, with functionality and beyond that. live-stream of the show at 6 p.m. on Sept. 13. — RACHEL STRUGATZ ‘Well, gosh, am I going to get the idea that she made Barney’s Simon Doonan it or not?” says Talamantes. “I a smart purchase—and wryly remarks, “We live in the SECTORS IN THIS ISSUE can wear it 11 months out of that resonates more than era of Lady Gaga. Seasonless the year. And it is a color I can dressing is wearing a fur coat anything. work with something else.’ It ” with a bikini underneath.” RETAIL 1,4,14,MW2 FINANCIAL 4,12,14,MW2 has to do with functionality and But the reality of seasonless INTERNET 2 MEDIA 12 the idea that she made a smart Jerry Talamantes, Dillard’s merchandising is multi- FASHION 2,8,9,10,MW1,MW3 PEOPLE 15 purchase—and that resonates faceted. “The old system of more than anything.” stodgy fall clothes and floaty summer chiffons is too Although retailers roll out product long before limiting,” Doonan says. “Women today are looking DAILY QUOTE consumers can or will use them (e.g., wool coats in for more eccentricity and self-expression.” August), more than two-thirds of women (68%) One way to approach seasonless dressing is buy their latest apparel styles on sale at the end of through layering. It’s very flattering. I was the season, according to the Cotton Incorporated “Layering allows you to wear the items that you Lifestyle Monitor™ Survey. want,” Doonan says. “You can wear a gypsy blouse surprised at how much of the Women ages 25-to-70 are significantly more likely to the Arctic. You just need a puffer coat to throw than women 13-24 to buy on sale at the end of the over it.” very young public was here. season (72% versus 56%). On the other hand, women Another layering approach is Lord & Taylor’s making $75,000 or more per year are less likely than “3-in-1” top from Calvin Klein that features a  — KARL LAGERFELD ON THE TURNOUT AT women making less per year to wait to buy (64% printed top over a tank that’s sequined at the hem. MACY’S HERALD SQUARE FOR THE LAUNCH OF HIS IMPULSE COLLECTION. PAGE ONE versus 70%), the Monitor survey finds. The pieces can be worn separately or together. And At Seattle-based Mario’s, Erin Jones, women’s they can be paired with one of the season’s shrugs, manager, says there’s been a steady rise in seasonless scarves or cardigans. dressing. “This seems to Seasonless also means TODAY ON WWD.COM be driven by street style, fabrics that work year-round. Q collection trends and, of When The Latest Styles of Clothing Cotton alone works with EYE: See pictures from the One Management 10th course, budget.” are Purchased, Among Women the seasonless blueprint via anniversary party and the L e s s t h a n one -t h i rd wardrobe staples like the At the beginning of a season Kardashian Kollection event at (31%) of women are “very or On sale at the end of a season perfect white shirt, trousers, WWD.com/eye. somewhat optimistic” about Don’t know knit tops, sweaters and QFASHION: New York Fashion Week the U.S. economy, down denim. coverage kicks off at WWD.com/runway. significantly from 39% last 68% 70% “A woman should probably QMARKETS: More looks year. And more than 8 of 56% always have some updated from Hanro of Switzerland 10 women (82%) are “very denim in her closet,” Jones at WWD.com/markets-news. QRETAIL: See more pictures or somewhat concerned” 29% advises, adding they should from Sacai’s first store about a reduction in their 20% 20% be sure to watch for new color The scene at 16% at WWD.com/retail-news. annual household income, 12% 11% One Management’s and shape trends. Other key QGLOBAL BREAKING NEWS according to Monitor data. items include, “a beautiful 10th anniversary party. PHOTO BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN KRISTEN SOMODY PHOTO BY C u r r e n t l y, w o m e n Females 13–24 25–34 white shirt, a core colored make up almost 47% of dress that can go almost TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS Source: CottonLifestyleMonitor.com [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. the American work force, anywhere—and an updated WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. according to the U.S. pump.” COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 202, NO. 50. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Department of Labor. In 2010, women accounted Dillard’s Talamantes says retailers will give Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in for nearly half of all business travelers, up from 43% greater play to fabrics and textiles that are seasonless February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by in 2003 and approximately 25% in 1991—and that in nature. Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; compares to less than 5% just 40 years ago, according “Fabrics that are ‘part of the season’ have a limited John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. to the Cornell Hotel and Restaurant Quarterly and life on the selling floor. So, while stores will pepper Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES the U.S. Travel Association. Therefore, long-wearing their inventory with something everybody loves, TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS apparel that works in different settings and climates like a double-faced heavy-weight jacket, key items CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed may be becoming more important to female buyers. are needed for the seasonless presentation,” he says. on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further Mario’s Jones says that while travel figures into “The focus on seasonless today stems from idea of obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund the seasonless trend, “On the whole, women seem functionality. Consumers want to feel they made a on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all to be making fashion-economic decisions. They are smart purchase.” editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www. wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that This article is one in a series that appears in these pages on Thursdays. The data contained is based on findings we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR from the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey, a consumer attitudinal study, as well as upon other THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK of the company’s industrial indicators including its Retail Monitor and Supply Chain Insights analyses. A digital (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. version of this column and other relevant information can be found at CottonLifestyleMonitor.com. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

4 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 Target Opens Missoni Pop-up Cucinelli Set to Restore Etruscan Arch, Eyes IPO By SHARON EDELSON Missoni’s bed and bath offerings. supports, just as he does. NEW YORK — Target today By LUISA ZARGANI Cucinelli will donate 1 unveils its Missoni for million euros, or $1.4 mil- Target pop-up shop at 1095 MILAN — The year 2011 lion at current exchange, to Sixth Avenue here, and ex- will close with a bang for help restore the monument, pects the line to be its most Brunello Cucinelli, and the also known as the Arch of successful yet. entrepreneur is giving back Augustus, which dates back The collection hits with an announcement today to the third century B.C. and Target stores and target. of a donation to help restore is one of the symbols of the com on Sept. 13. the famed Etruscan Arch in city as the main gate into the Anticipating a rush on Perugia, Italy. north side of the historic cen- colorful striped bedding, “It’s always been in my ter. Perugia is located about black-and-white zigzag nature to take an important 10 miles from Solomeo. glasses and knit apparel in part of profits and destine “I am very, very connect- rich colorways, Target or- them for humanitarian proj- ed to Italy and my territory, dered twice the amount of ects,” Cucinelli told WWD. Umbria and my country, and I merchandise it had on hand Indeed, Cucinelli bought am fascinated by the Etruscan for the Liberty of London a 14th-century castle and people and the Romans. I’m + Target pop-up store that surroundings in Solomeo, very happy to be involved occupied the same space in in Italy’s central region of — this is the most important March 2010. has a different impact.” Missoni and her mother, Umbria, in 1985 and restored monument in the city,” he said. Target is expecting Missoni to surpass the Angela Missoni, who is creative director, will be it over the next 23 years to Gauging the rest of the year, Liberty collection. For one thing, the Missoni col- on hand at the opening tonight during Fashion’s provide an environment for Cucinelli said he expects the lection is bigger, with 400 items compared with Night Out. luxury apparel company to Liberty’s 300. So profuse is the Missoni for Target “This is not a copy of any other collection,” said close 2011 with a 65.1 percent collection that the retailer leased the building’s Angela Missoni. “It’s a collection unto itself. We re- gain in net profits, reaching 30 second floor for selling bed and bath products and ally made it our own Sixties-inspired story.” million euros, or $42.2 million, children’s wear. Missoni for Target occupies 8,000 Enormous lamp shades with signature Missoni compared with last year. square feet of space in the building at the corner patterns hang from the ceiling of the pop-up store Revenues are expected of 42nd Street. That’s almost one-third more square and black string creates a sheer wall between the to total 245 million euros, or footage than the Liberty event. store and dressing rooms. Target bull’s-eyes, in $344.7 million, up 20.6 percent “I arrived in New York an hour ago,” said classic Missoni palettes, are projected onto the from 2010. 28-year-old Margherita Missoni. “This is the rug. Target’s highest price point for a product in His goal now is to take first time I’m seeing all the pieces together. It a designer collaboration is Missoni’s patio set at his company public in the $599.99; however, most items are priced under $40. spring. “We want to be ready “Target’s marketing approach is on a whole and prepared by then, but other level,” Missoni said. “This viral way of attack- we will see what the mar- ing the audience” is amazing. ket is like at that moment,” Missoni was referring to the Missoni for Target he said. The company has blog on the retailer’s Web site and the blogger, tapped Mediobanca and Marina, dubbed, “a little doll.” Marina’s voice Merrill Lynch as joint global is actually courtesy of fashion journalist Indigo coordinators of the opera- Clarke, and the little doll is actually a 25-foot robo tion. Cucinelli is thinking of doll dressed in head-to-toe Missoni. The blog ad- an initial public offering in vises that Marina is “a real doll. That’s right, joints, Milan. “I am Italian, and I hinges and all.” Brunello want to list in my country,” he Target Corp.’s design and marketing teams Cucinelli said, noting that he will prob- traveled to Italy several times to work with the ably put one-third of the fam- Missonis, who made reciprocal visits to the retailer’s ily-owned firm on the market. Minneapolis headquarters. Missoni appears in the ad the company’s workers there. “I would like to do my job campaign, a takeoff of Sixties caper movies. In 2008, he unveiled a new all of my life. I’m 58 and I have “This is the first time [Margherita’s] been so in- theater complex, followed two daughters, aged 20 and volved in a project,” said Angela. “Two years ago last year by a library. 28. Ownership is inherited, [after working as a model and actress,] she told me, “I believe in capitalism, but not the management of a ‘I don’t have to prove anything to myself. This com- and as an entrepreneur, I company. If they will be able pany is my heart.’ I think she has all the potential to must turn a profit, but I would to manage it, they will; if not, run the company one day.” like to do it without damaging there will be someone who Asked whether the fashion house’s founders, mankind,” he explained. “A can do it,” he said. Angela’s parents Tai and Rosita Missoni, were wary part [of profits] goes to make A listing will allow the com- of a Target hookup, Angela Missoni said, “My par- the company stronger, a part to pany to “be more visible at an ents are the most hip, advanced people. They’ve Brunello, a part to the workers international level and attract always been ahead of their time.” and a part to make the world talented managers,” he added. And why partner with Target in the first place? more beautiful. This is our cul- And, if stronger financially, it “Besides the fun of it? To raise brand awareness in ture,” he said, adding that his will be able to “tackle growth Margherita, Rosita and Angela Missoni. the U.S.,” Angela said. “We are a big name with a employees can feel like “cus- in emerging markets in a fast- PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY small presence in this country.” todians” of the sites Cucinelli er way.”

merchandise categories in the second with vendor Li & Fung and is cutting Talbots Ousts Creative Officer quarter.” back [capital expenditures] to $47 million One bright spot was in the firm’s up- from $60 million. We view all these fac- noted that the leadership change will scale outlet business, which the ceo said tors with great caution, but do recognize By VICKI M. YOUNG also impact other initiatives as “we con- posted “second-quarter comps of mid- pools of liquidity remain so near-term vi- tinue to evolve our catalogue, Web site, single digits. We are seeing strength in ability is not in question.” THE TALBOTS INC. on Wednesday said marketing programs and the look and important categories particularly in tops, The second-quarter loss for the pe- a search is under way for a new chief cre- feel of our stores.” dresses and accessories. Productivity riod ended July 30, which translated to ative officer after the company posted a A search for a new creative officer has remained strong with sales per selling 54 cents a diluted share, was against second-quarter loss of $37.3 million. begun, and Sullivan will take on the ad- square feet of approximately $440 on a earnings of $941,000, or 1 cent, a year Out in the cold is Michael Smaldone, ditional duties of creative chief until one trailing 12-month basis at the end of the ago. On an adjusted basis, the loss from who left his post as creative officer, effec- is found. A spokeswoman said there is no second quarter, significantly above our continuing operations was $35.5 mil- tive immediately. timetable in place for when the retailer core stores.” lion, or 51 cents a share, versus income Trudy Sullivan, president and chief hopes to complete its search. During the quarter the company also of $9.8 million, or 14 cents, last year. executive officer, said that while the As for the second quarter results, adjusted its agreement with sourcing Sales for the three months decreased company has made progress in executing Sullivan attributed the loss to “high lev- firm Li & Fung to allow an additional 30- 9.9 percent to $271.1 million from its brand vision, “customer acceptance els of promotional and markdown activ- day extension for payments on up to $50 $300.7 million, with comparable-store needs to improve. Therefore I have de- ity.” While there were planned promo- million in purchases. sales falling 10.4 percent. termined it is necessary for us to bring in tions and markdowns during what is Analyst Randal Konik at Jefferies said For the six months, the loss widened new creative leadership.” typically a clearance period, Sullivan in a research note that investors should to $36.6 million, or 53 cents a diluted She told Wall Street analysts during told analysts the second quarter was stay on the sidelines, given product is- share, from $3.4 million, or 5 cents, last a conference call on second-quarter re- “more difficult than expected. We were sues and lack of consumer traction. year. Sales declined 7.9 percent to $572.4 sults, “We believe that taking this action more aggressive in our promotions given Konik also noted that cash is becom- million from $621.4 million. will position us for better execution of the challenging environment and assort- ing a concern, pointing out that Talbots The company said it expects high lev- our critical brand and merchandise ini- ments that clearly did not resonate with “only carries $7 million on its balance els of promotional and markdown activity tiatives, both near and longer term.” She our customer. We were challenged in all sheet, is extending its payment window to continue throughout the third quarter. Fashion may change, but Location is forever.

Contact us to fi nd out how you can benefi t from our location expertise. Because fashionably late doesn’t Retail Savvy. Neighborhood Smart. work in retail or real estate. ThorHighStreet.com 212.401.8635 6 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011

THE GLOOMY ECONOMIC forecast may have paired with more neutral tones like the classic consumers seeing storm clouds overhead, but maritime Sodalite, the beige-gray Driftwood designers’ spring color choices are consider- and the natural neutral Starfish. ably more sunny and vibrant. Not about to let Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Spring 2012: the heaviness of the world seep into their pal- Pantone Color Institute, said, “There are a few ettes, designers are turning to mood-altering anchor colors and brights that work with what shades such as Tangerine Tango, Solar Power people already have. When it comes to clothes, and Dazzling Blue. Uplifting as those shades there is not a throw-it-away, give-it-away mental- (and names) may be, several of this spring’s ity. That is the new reality. Designers are giving leading colors are derivative of top-ranked them some basics but also a little excitement The Bright Stuff colors from recent seasons and can easily be that offers a lift.” — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

WOMEN’S

Tang1 erine Tango 17-1463 Solar2 Power 13-0759 Sodalite3 Blue 19-3953 Cabaret4 18-2140 Starfish5 16-1120

PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO USED THIS COLOR: 14.71 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 14.12 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 13.53 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 11.76 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 10.59 PERCENT Even Eiseman has been surprised by Having spotted this eye-opening yellow Aside from providing a traditional spring- A cross between red and pink, Cabaret This warm neutral is traditionally the staying power of orange and yel- in her travels through France, Germany time option, this one gives shoppers is testimony to shoppers’ ongoing more of a fall color, but it works well low in recent seasons, but that only and Italy in the past few years, Eiseman confidence and helps them validate admiration for all things pink. It is also a giving warmth to livelier shades like increases the likelihood that more said more Americans are taking to yel- their livelier spring color choices. Soda- top-notch cosmetic color, whether used orange and yellow. Elie Tahari and people will embrace those brights. lows. Rachel Roy is helping the cause. lite is fresh without being too out-there. for blush or lip gloss. Tommy Hilfiger have tapped into it.

Margarita6 14-0116 Sweet7 Lilac 14-2808 Driftwood8 18-1210 Bellflower9 18-3628 Cockatoo10 14-5420

PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO USED THIS COLOR: 8.24 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 7.65 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 7.05 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 6.47 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 5.88 PERCENT Just like orange, this yellow-green Perhaps this spring’s surefire choice, Not wanting to get too fanciful, design- Perhaps First Lady Michelle Obama’s Of all the other leading 10 shades, combo has been hanging on at the this soft shade is becoming to most. “In ers are using this deeper neutral as a fondness for purple is helping to spur this one is the most different, which top of the color charts far longer than anxious times, people need something grounding color. Given that pragmatism, variations of her favorite color. Eiseman also might explain why it ranked expected. But this interpretation of that they will feel healthy and good in,” it’s not surprising that the outerwear said, “One of the other reasons people 10th. Tracy Reese is a fan of this easy Margarita is softer and a little less Eiseman said. “It looks good no matter label Mackage uses it. “This is sort of really like it is that they already own and playful green for spring, as is Ella citrus-y than the actual cocktail. what kind of skin tone you have.” spring’s version of brown,” Eiseman said. other things in these colors.” Moss by Pamella Protzel Scott. MEN’S

Dazzling1 Blue 18-3949 Vintage2 Khaki 16-0205 Granita3 19-2039 Hawaiian4 Ocean 17-4540 Starfish5 16-1120

PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO USED THIS COLOR: 13.29 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 13.12 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 12.46 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 10.91 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 9.45 PERCENT Blue is the go-to color for scores of Another standby shade, albeit an even This rich tone is the male version of The remake of “Hawaii Five-O” is in its This neutral along with Vintage Khaki men, whether that be for jeans or a more common one, is Vintage Khaki. It Cabaret, but designers knew full well sophomore season and this blue seems and Tradewinds gray tends to make pinstripe suit. All in all, guys don’t plays to men’s fondness for the depend- they had to tone it down for the guys. to be riding that wave. This turquoise is a men feel more confident. There is have a problem with any variety of able. And given the resurgence of all But it’s still faintly festive. safe bet for men whether they are hang- also a certain comfort level with such blue. Artist Yves Klein certainly would things old school and Americana, this ing out on the beach or just bouncing familiar hues. have approved. basic’s name alone will win fans. around town after Memorial Day.

Tang6 erine Tango 17-1463 Sodalite78910 Blue 19-3953 Solar Power 13-0759 Tradewinds 15-4307 Grass Green 15-6437 PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO PERCENTAGE OF DESIGNERS WHO USED THIS COLOR: 9.42 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 8.91 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 8.33 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 7.12 PERCENT USED THIS COLOR: 6.99 PERCENT No longer restricted to Hermès shop- This fresh alternative to navy adds a The fact that more collegiate and Like the weather, there always has to be This fairway-friendly color is an hom- ping bags, this orange stands on its little sizzle to what is pretty much still professional athletic teams are wearing a little gray in the lineup. “Men really un- age to golf, a sport played by 36.7 own like no other. More avant-garde a safe shade. Like some of the other uniforms with more vibrant colors and derstand it and it’s a confidence builder,” million Americans each year. Many style setters took to it this summer by neutrals that landed on the men’s top interesting patterns is resonating with Eiseman said. exceed the average American 46-hour being so bold as to wear tangerine- 10 list, Sodalite Blue is slightly different their fans. Just ask the University of work week but they can at least chan- toned pants and polos. without being too out there. Maryland’s football team. nel the outdoors by wearing green. NOVEMBER 14+15 2011 CEO SUMMIT A P P A R E L & RETAIL THE PLAZA HOTEL NYC

BARNEYS NEW YORK MANDALAY LANE CRAWFORD Mark Lee ENTERTAINMENT GROUP AND JOYCE on the New Specialty Store Peter Guber Andrew Keith on Compelling Brand Stories on Fashion and Retail in China

JACK WILLS YOOX GROUP BOTTEGA VENETA Peter Williams Federico Marchetti Marco Bizzarri on Authenticity and on Luxury E-commerce on Core Brand Values British Style in China

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HYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUH ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH HUH HYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH \ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH HYHU\ZKHUH \ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUHHYHU\ZKHUH K K For information contact Marne Friedman at 212.630.4379 or [email protected]

Sponsored by: 8 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011

“Lengthy exposure.” — Narciso Rodriguez

“ASCENSION.” L — RALPH RUCCI, CHADO RALPH RUCCI

“Seventy- seven stories.” “Spring 2012 is — Francisco both near and far.” Costa, — Laura and Calvin Klein Kate Mulleavy, Collection Rodarte

DESIGNER INSPIRATIONSIII) (PART Spring is in the air and nothing says it better than today’s lineup of Inspirations, devoted to shows scheduled for Tuesday through next Thursday.

“VOYAGE.” — MICHAEL KORS

“IT IS THE SEARCH FOR A FORM WHICH CAN BE LIFTED BY THE CURRENTS OF THE WIND.” — PHILLIP LIM, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM V

PHOTO BY MICHAEL KORS PHOTO BY “AN EXPLORATION OF FLUID AND STRUCTURED PIECES WITH ENORMOUS EMPHASIS ON “American Googie architecture.” FINISHINGS.” — Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, — VERA WANG Ralph Lauren L Proenza Schouler WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 9 WWD.COM “GRAPHIC YET More, More, More FEMININE. VIBRANT AND SATURATED COLOR.” “Oceanic.”

— REED KRAKOFF L — Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, Marchesa

“Umberto Boccioni’s studies of organic movement of the body through space.” — James Mischka and Mark Badgley, L

PHOTO BY REED KRAKOFF PHOTO BY Badgley Mischka PHOTO BY JEAN-JACQUES TARBES PHOTO BY “‘La Piscine’ by Jacques Deray; I was inspired by the colors and the sexual tension that runs through the movie.” — Sophie Theallet L

“Playing with proportions, angles and juxtaposi- tion of colors.” — Amy Smilovic, Tibi

“The illustrations and “Organic surfaces mixed with light reflecting tex- tures.” — Sophia Kokosalaki, Diesel Black Gold photographs of Antonio Lopez and his partner, “Diversified uniformity.” Juan Ramos. I loved — Lubov and Max Azria, Hervé Léger by Max Azria when they went to Paris “Oasis.” — Elie Tahari and inspired French Seventies fashion. They “Dance girls.” — Norma Kamali discovered so many famous faces.” “Timeless, easy and chic.” — Jeffrey Monteiro, Bill Blass — Anna Sui

ILLUSTRATION BY ANTONIO LOPEZ, COURTESY OF PAUL CARANICAS OF PAUL COURTESY ANTONIO LOPEZ, BY ILLUSTRATION “‘Those lips that Love’s own

PHOTO BY WILLIAM CHRISTENBERRY, COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS COURTESY WILLIAM CHRISTENBERRY, PHOTO BY hand did make.’

— William Shakespeare.”

FOR V MORE — Bibhu Mohapatra INSPIRATIONS, SEE “Exotic color and geometric “A WWD.com/ prints from the designs of fashion-news. Dorothy Draper.” — Gilles Mendel, J.Mendel romance “Las Diosas de Carne: sexy becoming sophisticat- ed, excess feeling effortless.” — Juan Carlos Obando with “Acid classic.” — Nanette Lepore “I envisioned a streamlined, articulated collec- tion influenced by modern architecture, linear color.” silhouettes, textures and colors.” — Oscar de la Renta — Fiona Cibani, Ports 1961

POSTER BY BORIS BILINSKY POSTER BY “While doing research for my new house in the “Life in a metropolitan urban environment country, I became infatuated with timeless, sen- and a fantasy vision of the city of the future.” sual grandeur of French country houses.” — Stephen Burrows L — Gemma Kahng “The women of the silver screen, sensual and powerful, masculine and ultra feminine.” — Alice Temperley

“My dream of North Africa.” — Zang Toi

“Shanghai high society of the Thirties: a bubble of upper-class escapism.” — Douglas Hannant

“A take on spring florals, collaging and manipulating photo-real images into ex- treme prints.” — Julian Louie

“I was inspired by this incredible vintage book from the Sixties about a Brazilian tribe. The prints are rooted in nature: quills, raked sand, labyrinths and shields.” — Kelly Wearstler

“The Brady Bunch go to Hawaii.” — Michael Bastian, Gant by Michael Bastian

“The 1969 Catherine Deneuve film ‘Mississippi Mermaid.’” — Malan Breton

“The collection is modern and geometric in print and cut, grounded by earthy materials like wood and PHOTO BY CORBIS PHOTO BY

tortoise resin.” “Beautiful people on the French Riviera.” — L’Wren Scott V — Michelle Smith, Milly V 10 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 WWD.COM

And just like that, the spring 2012 FIRST THINGS FIRSTgames have begun. Rachel Jenni FOR MORE Comey Kayne REVIEWS, SEE WWD.com/ fashion-shows.

COLLECTIONS 2012 NEW YORK Organic SPRING by John Vena DKNY Patrick Cava PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN AND THOMAS IANNACCONE KYLE STEVE EICHNER, PHOTOS BY

DKNY: There’s nothing more New York than Vena Cava: On Tuesday evening, Sophie Buhai Times Square, and DKNY embraced its roots and Lisa Mayock showcased their spring Vena as a “city cool” brand Wednesday afternoon by Cava collection by way of an intimate dinner Ralph Lauren Mini- taking over the NASDAQ MarketSite on 43rd and at MPD in the Meatpacking District, with their Broadway to show its spring men’s collection. close friends and muses modeling the clothes Spectators were able to look up and see 45 (see Scoops, page 15). Me’s Hit the Runway models against floor-to-ceiling windows on the Inspired by Forties films they watched in second floor of the exchange, or catch a glimpse their hotel room while on a research trip to On Wednesday afternoon of the lineup on 12 Reuters JumboTron screens Vietnam in March, the lineup featured cropped at his Madison Avenue 22 stories high. jackets paired with high-waisted trousers, open office, Ralph Lauren hosted What they saw was a reinvention of American weave sweaters and even a maxidress that was a runway show for his classics with a modern twist. The tailored printed with botanicals of marijuana leaves. fall 2011 girls collection, clothing statement was strong and revisited Hand-whip stitching details appeared on the inviting daughters of the iconic Fifties gray suit, complete with a straps of tops and dresses for a crafty-yet- fashion editors, socials ultra-slim silhouette and accented by skinny modern twist. (Lauren duPont, Amanda ties. Unstructured blazers in an array of But the biggest news here is the launch of Brooks, Stephanie Winston patterns such as pinstripe, windowpane and Vena Cava handbags — functional and chic, and Wolkoff), his best customers tonal plaids provided a more sophisticated retailing from $275 to $550 — that the designers from Ralph Lauren and touch to the vintage style. The sportswear was say are purposefully nondescript. Saks Fifth Avenue and, light and ethereal highlighted by an updated of course, a few mommy replica of the Steve McQueen MA-1 bomber Rachel Comey: Rachel Comey’s spring collection bloggers. The budding that was paired with a blue Henley and form- featured familiar motifs, including the earthy fashionistas took to their fitting cotton shorts. Many of the fabrics were prints, nubby knits and baggy, slightly boxy front-row seats with gift water- and stain-resistant and all the outerwear shapes. It might sound like the dream wardrobe bags (knit messenger featured iPhone pockets. for the woman for whom composting is exciting, bags) and clapped and While DKNY was the wardrobe for the work but Comey’s talent lies in taking such indie gasped with excitement week, the Pure subcollection offered a relaxed staples and making them stylish, even sexy — as each look came down weekend feel with its garment-washed cotton i.e., corsets peeking out from under draped the runway: intarsia blazers, printed linen shirts, dip-dyed linen silk dresses. sweaters in wintery sweaters and slub jersey knits. Together with the The clothes were a melange of artsy prints motifs; a Grunge-inspired main collection, it made for a more cohesive and and easy shapes, such as long skirts and sack red plaid maxidress; a well-thought-out message than in recent seasons. dresses strung on shoe-string straps, that struck bohemian fur vest-floral the perfect balance between geek and chic. dress combo, and plenty Organic by John Patrick: There’s much to be said of Lauren’s signature about simply great clothes. And John Patrick Jenni Kayne: The designer was in a country club Western wear, Navajo and delivers that message each season as his state of mind this season, offering a bevy of equestrian looks. In case effortless collections for Organic continue to preppy favorites laced with a hint of athleticism. the guests want to relive it evolve. For spring, there wasn’t a piece among There were boxy short suits (social lunch), a all, the show will go live on his smartly edited 19-look lineup that wasn’t posh sequined T-shirt (dinner dance) and a ralphlauren.com and saks. terrific — most notably the printed silk shorts button-front silk dress paired with signature com on Sept. 22, all with

with raw-edged shirts, the khaki safari jacket pointy toe slippers (après-tennis), all looks sure shoppable looks. MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY and a fun little matching strapless dress. to keep Kayne’s girl on the in scene this spring. Everyone sees the collections. No one sees them like 12 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 Executives Cautious Heading Into Fall I look at unemployment, I look at Things are moving from a tech- Stephen I. Sadove, chairman and By EVAN CLARK Emanuel housing prices, and I feel first- nological point of view and they ceo, Saks Inc. Chirico hand what my customers are feel- are moving quickly.” Q“We’re continuing to see im- LATE SUMMER and back-to- ing on a day-in, day-out basis. So, provement in full-price sell- school sales have turned out rel- I don’t see this getting any better Robert Shearer, senior vice president ing. We’ve probably taken 30 atively well, but retailers of all anytime soon.” and chief financial officer, VF Corp. percent to 40 percent of the stripes are looking at the eco- And Myron E. “Mike” Ullman QVF plans to about double its promotion out over the last nomic storm clouds over Europe 3rd, chairman and ceo of J.C. current fleet of 750 stores to several years.” and the U.S. and steering a cau- Penney Co. Inc., said retail 1,500 in the next five years. “But Q“Mobile is a very fast grow- tious course as they head into concepts that weren’t working when you think about 700-plus ing tool for us. Purchases on the fall and holiday seasons. would be pressured when inter- stores today on a global basis, the iPad, for example, are “When I’m here, everybody est rates finally start to rise. there’s a lot of room to grow growing dramatically. We’ll is worried — all [the] questions “We have way too much space without getting a high level of have an app in the next several are focused on Europe,” said per capita in the U.S....Whether penetration,” Shearer said. months available.” Emanuel Chirico, chairman it be too many malls or too much Q Inventories at the close of and chief executive officer at off-the-mall space, there will be the second quarter were $1.29 Glen Senk, ceo, Urban Outfitters PVH Corp., at Goldman Sachs’ a shakeout,” Ullman said. “The billion, 16.7 percent over the Q“In the Urban brand we share Eighteenth Annual Global customer has a lot of choices year-ago level. Shearer said 60 locations with Forever 21 and Retailing Conference. “And and as the choices become more about half of the increase was those 60 Urban Outfitters stores when I’m traveling throughout focused, I think that allows the “related to cost [increases] and performed favorably to the Europe and doing this, every- strong operators, the strong mer- the rest associated with growth group at large. So, competition

body is worried that the United STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY chants to perform better.” that we are anticipating for the is good for us.” States is falling into the ocean.” Here are some of highlights later part of the year. So we are Q “We are lucky in that every Although Chirico said back-to- causes me to feel like things are from the first day of the two-day feeling pretty good about that.” channel makes money, I don’t school selling has been “strong,” going to get a lot better,” said conference: think we have a single store the company is pulling back Doug McMillon, president and Mike Koppel, executive vice president that’s not profitable.” slightly given the sketchy outlook. ceo of Wal-Mart Stores Inc.’s in- Doug McMillon, president and ceo, and cfo, Nordstrom Inc. “We’re not hiring,” he said. ternational unit. “Jobs are a big Wal-Mart International Q “The recession of 2008 and Jonathan Ramsden, cfo and executive “We’re [doing] all the things you issue virtually everywhere. Jobs Q “We are focused on large 2009 is still very fresh in our vice president, Abercrombie & Fitch Co. would expect us to do as far as are a big issue in South Africa, high-growth markets, it’s the minds, and I think we’ve devel- Q “Our absolute top priority [for inventory. We slowed down some even though it’s a young nation reason why we went to Sub- oped some pretty good respons- capital allocation]...is on fund- of our store opening plans and that’s growing, unemployment Saharan Africa. Not only be- es to an accelerating business ing our international growth. we are really monitoring the rates are high. So everywhere cause of the opportunity in that does soften, if it should, and The return on invested capital unit inventory levels in our own that’s an issue. Gas prices are a South Africa but the opportu- we’re prepared to do so, but at for Hollister in particular is ex- stores and department stores to second issue that I would men- nity throughout the region.” the same time I think we’re also tremely strong. ANF is also very really manage the gross margin tion; they are putting pressure on Q “Technology is changing prepared to respond if demand strong and certainly part of all in the back half of the year and disposable income everywhere.” the way customers shop virtu- continues to be where it is.” the best returns we see for our going into spring 2012.” Those who took the longer ally everywhere. Every market Q “While you’ve heard us talk capital at this point. So our top The story is the same around view were also dour. that we’re in around the world, a lot about the growth in the priority is to make sure we can the world. “It’s a 10-year cycle,” said Glen something is happening, wheth- online space, we are seeing fund those.” “I have not seen anything, if Senk, ceo of Urban Outfitters Inc. er it’s with the handset in India very consistent strength in our — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS I look at the whole globe, that “I’m not an economics expert, but or it’s with a laptop in Canada. bricks-and-mortar business.” FROM ARNOLD J. KARR

editor since 2008, will replace Susan Chira as the paper’s new foreign editor. This MEMO PAD follows the announcement that national editor Rick Berke will oversee the features ALI HEWSON’S NEW MEN: Edun is putting departments, which leaves one lingering its men’s business in the spotlight this vacancy: Who’s taking over national? season via an online marketing campaign Several Times sources told WWD featuring a roster of guys with both style that restaurant critic Sam Sifton is a and substance. Launched this week on leading candidate to become the head edun.com, the dozen participants in the of the national desk. Sifton has been “Pioneers Project” are actors, artists, the restaurant critic for just two years social activists and entrepreneurs, and has had no experience as a national including Blake Mycoskie, the founder of reporter or editor. (At the Times, he has Toms shoes; Adam Braun, the founder of run the culture desk and worked for Pencils of Promise; Neil Blumenthal and the dining section; he was previously David Gilboa, founders of online eyewear a writer and editor for Talk and The retailer Warby Parker; Graham Hill, founder New York Press.) But one Times source of Treehugger.com, and said that Sifton “would make the CHRISTY Jim Moriarty, founder of the leap in a minute — he has much CLASS OF 2012 Surfrider Foundation. greater career ambitions than to STUDYING: MARKETING “These are real men be restaurant critic.” doing great things, who If Sifton does get the job, it are thinking outside the would be yet another surprising box,” said Ali Hewson, decision by Abramson. David ® who founded Edun in Leonhardt was recently appointed WHERE BUSINESS MEETS FASHION 2005 with her husband, Washington bureau chief even Bono. “We haven’t really though he was on no one’s short marketed the men’s line list for the job. before, and we felt this “I’ll pass on that one,” said For nearly 75 years, we’ve been collection really deserved Abramson, when asked about educating tomorrow’s leaders for the proper attention.” Sifton. (Sifton did not respond to successful careers in the business About 60 percent of an e-mail seeking comment.)

of fashion. With hundreds of the Edun sales are in women’s FOR EDUN BEN WATTS PHOTO BY When asked if she was fashion industry’s top companies as and 40 percent in men’s. A shot from Edun’s inclined to make further surprise The brand — which is a for- choices beyond Leonhardt, she partners, our students get hands-on men’s campaign profit company that aims to featuring Adam Braun. played that notion down. experience from day one. And with develop trade with Africa “I’m looking for the absolute expert faculty, a challenging curriculum, — is sold in 140 doors in North America. strongest journalists for these positions, and our prime location right in the Hewson and Bono own 51 percent and looking for what will be best for The fashion capital of the world, it’s quite of Edun, while partner LVMH Moët New York Times,” said Abramson. “I don’t a winning combination. Hennessy Louis Vuitton owns 49 percent. care about the element of surprise. Doing Hewson and Bono will celebrate the my job is not a public performance.” “Pioneers” launch on Sunday with a One thing is clear: The Times is dinner at the Harlem restaurant Red beginning to define a new generation Rooster, which is owned by chef Marcus of leaders at the paper. In addition Samuelsson, who is also in the Edun to Leonhardt and Kahn, Carolyn Ryan campaign. — DAVID LIPKE has been in the job of metro editor for www.limcollege.edu/wwd just eight months and has impressed ABRAMSON’S LINEUP: New York Times the masthead with her performance. Find out more: 800.677.1323 executive editor Jill Abramson is quickly Likewise, it’s said that deputy national 12 East 53rd St. New York, NY 10022 assembling her team and on Wednesday editor Adam Bryant is on the verge of announced what seemed to be a foregone getting a high-profile editing job at the conclusion: Joe Kahn, deputy foreign paper as well. — JOHN KOBLIN

14 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 Lagerfeld Launches at Macy’s Strong Swiss Franc {Continued from page one} contemplating precisely To Adversely Affect what Macy’s customers might like or expect. “It’s better to have a vague idea than to have a precise Richemont Profits knowledge. That involves marketing. I am not a mar- By SAMANTHA CONTI keter. They [Macy’s] used nearly all of my ideas, maybe LONDON — The supersized Swiss franc is set to take a I made 50 sketches, and they bite out of Compagnie Financière Richemont’s net prof- used nearly all, 45. its in the first half, despite sales gains of 29 percent in “I am very happy to play the initial five months and higher operating profit. in a courtyard that you’re Johann Rupert, Richemont’s executive chairman not used to be playing in, to and group chief executive officer, said Wednesday the not only play in the court- currency — which has appreciated nearly 12.7 percent yard of high fashion. It’s un- against the euro over the past year — would put negative usual, yes. I am pleased that pressure on margins. it’s that way. Who wants any- “The stronger Swiss franc will continue to be nega- thing that is usual?” tive for our cost of sales and operating expenses, main- His Macy’s sojourn, he taining negative pressure on our margins,” he said, add- said, albeit another move ing that net profit for the period would be flat despite a downmarket by a top-tier higher operating profit. designer, won’t dilute his The strong Swiss franc — which many investors view image or those of Chanel as the last safe haven amid spiraling debt crises on both and Fendi that he designs. sides of the Atlantic — also dented Richemont’s robust “This is not a problem what- sales gains in all markets. soever,” Lagerfeld said. Sales at the company, whose brands include Cartier, “The more and more your IWC, Chloé and Dunhill, rose 29 percent in the first name is around, it’s even five months of the fiscal year to Aug. 31. At constant ex- better for Chanel. I am Mannequins and, at right, a model change rates, they rose 35 percent. linked to that. I think this wearing looks from the line. Full six-month sales and profit figures will be re- is the right moment for this. leased Nov. 11. It’s pretentious to make only Earlier this week, the Swiss National Bank took expensive things.” plan to extend the life of the collection. “That’s measures to deflate the franc, enforcing a minimum ex- Lagerfeld’s collection for not the idea. It’s really about fashion. We change rate of 1.20 francs to the euro. The bank branded Macy’s started selling four bought it as a capsule collection.” the franc “massively overvalued,” and said it posed an days ago at 225 doors and Asked what’s driving the volume, Lundgren “acute threat” to the Swiss economy. on macys.com, and officially replied: “It’s the signature pieces, the high Analysts, meanwhile, said there was little that Swiss launched Tuesday at Herald collars, the sheer blouses and the scarves. luxury companies such as Richemont could do right now Square. He’s the latest in There is so much of his signature look to it. in the face of the pumped-up currency. Macy’s ongoing guest de- Karl was very at ease understanding that he “Richemont can increase prices in local currencies signer series, which kicked had to make product consistent with his look in the U.S., the Eurozone and Asia — which they have off with Kinder Aggugini and with price points that are accessible” to been doing — but you can only do that into the high-sin- in February, followed by Macy’s customers. The collection also has re- gle digits, like 8 or 9 percent,” said Antoine Belge, luxu- Matthew Williamson in fined dresses, chic airy tops, feminine shoul- ry goods analyst at HSBC. “But there’s no other way out: April, and clearly crescen- der treatments, colors juxtaposed with pat- Watches have to be made in Switzerland, and Richemont dos with Lagerfeld for fall. terns, florals and turtleneck tops paired with has no intention of moving its headquarters out of the “We’re blown away by tweed shorts. Among the most elegant pieces country. The good news, however, is that Richemont’s the sell-throughs with Karl. Karl — a tailored tuxedo dress with pintucking. products are in high demand.” Even before his p.a. [public Lagerfeld Lagerfeld should help open design doors In an upbeat report earlier in the day, Belge pointed at Macy’s. appearance], we did more STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY for Macy’s. “We began this process of trying to out that Asia, which accounts for 41 percent of sales, not than $1 million in sales,” think differently about a higher level of fash- including tourist-related ones, grew at 59 percent in the said Terry Lundgren, Macy’s ion for Macy’s, and luxury that we can sell at five months at constant exchange rates. Inc. chairman, chief executive officer and president. certain of our stores,” Lundgren said. “We’ve met Thomas Chauvet at Citi said the currency impact So did Macy’s underestimate the potential? with great success. There is no limit to what we can should subside in the second half. He said, “While the Lundgren said he didn’t think so, noting the buy is do at this store. The results with Karl have gone far strong Swiss franc and the outperformance of Net-a- “in the millions,” without specifying. And there’s no beyond expectations.” porter will impact gross margin negatively in the first half, the Swiss National Bank’s commitment to peg the euro- Swiss franc at 1.20 should limit currency-related down- side risks to earnings for the remainder of the year.” Richemont is battling more than a strong Swiss franc: Rupert said the rest of the year was difficult to predict because of other macro-eco- nomic issues. The strongest performing region in the period was Asia- Pacific, which saw a 46 percent rise in sales at actual exchange rates compared with the first five months of last year. The company said there was “sus- tained” consumer confidence in the region and sales were further boosted by new invest- ments in distribution networks. The Americas posted 26 percent growth at actual rates, while sales in Europe rose 21 percent, reflecting purchases by local clients as well as tour- ists, the company said. Sales in Japan increased 7 percent de- spite the impact of the natural disasters there earlier this year. Richemont’s jewelry brands saw a 34 percent rise in sales, while the watch brands rose 28 percent. Sales at the Montblanc brand rose 10 percent, while the “other” brands category, which includes Net-a-porter. com and Chloé, rose 24 percent. WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 15 WWD.COM Donatella Versace Wu will work as an Denmark’s Bestseller Fashion ambassador for the St. Regis Group and Holch Povlsen acts FASHION SCOOPS brand by providing a fashion as chief executive officer of the perspective for the next company. However, the investors generation of luxury travelers. are acquiring J. Lindeberg as GILHART’S NEW ROLE: Julie Gilhart, DINNER WITH FRIENDS: Instead of Having previously shown his a brand distinct from their former fashion director at a traditional runway show or collection twice at the St. Regis, activities with Bestseller, and Barneys New York, has joined presentation, Vena Cava kicked Wu will develop exclusive content it will continue to operate Amazon.com as a consultant off New York Fashion Week on for the hotel chain’s Web site and separately. J. Lindeberg’s ceo, to the Internet giant’s fashion Tuesday night with a dinner will produce fashion experiences Jonas Meerits, and global brand group, including Amazon party at MPD in the Meatpacking and events around the world director, Stefan Engström, will Clothing Store, Endless District. Designers Sophie Buhai such as midnight suppers, a remain in their positions and as and Myhabit. and Lisa Mayock asked several of century-old tradition of the shareholders in the business. Gilhart will help shape the their friends and “muses,” who brand’s founding patroness, Warburg, Friis and Holch

fashion point of view and the included Arden Wohl, Sarah Sophie STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Caroline Astor. He’ll advise Povlsen acquired their assortment of designer brands. Flicker and Nora Zehetner, to show and consult on event decor, the shareholding from investment At Barneys, she played a similar off the wares. “We really design in town for the occasion, which guest list and production. On vehicle Proventus, which role, discovering new designers for our friends so we thought this will include a fashion show, a the Web site, Wu will share his assumed principal ownership and nurturing several such as was a great way to do that and Versace for H&M boutique and fashion and travel inspirations of J. Lindeberg in 2007. The Alber Elbaz, Proenza Schouler have a nice evening,” Buhai said. an after party. More details from cities and exotic resort new owners plan to “develop and Olivier Theyskens. She also The restaurant was Vena Cava’d couldn’t be learned, but this destinations he’s traveled. J. Lindeberg as a stand- worked with more established for the evening with desert- being Donatella, expect it to be Wu’s new gig will be officially alone entity and to utilize labels such as Helmut Lang, themed tchotchkes and a large a celeb-filled extravaganza. unveiled Friday, following his the brand’s potential for Balenciaga and Goyard. spray-painted “Viva Vena” on fashion show earlier that day continued global growth,” the Gilhart left Barneys last one wall. RUGBY BASH: Ralph Lauren’s Rugby at Center 548, with a night-time company said. Meerits added November, shortly after Mark “That’s us,” Buhai said. “We label hosted a crew of young party in Adour Alain Ducasse at in a statement: “This deal is Lee became the new chief tag. I don’t look like it, but we’re London names and bloggers at The St. Regis New York. an acknowledgement of the executive officer and started pretty street.” the label’s newly minted store strength of the brand.…I am overhauling the executive team. “Sophie’s tag name is Lil in London’s Covent Garden CHALAYAN’S NEW LINE: Hussein confident it will open up for new “Her ability to identify fashion Ripper,” Mayock deadpanned. Monday night. Guests including Chalayan will launch his new label, and exciting opportunities.” trends, support emerging Bip Ling, actor Freddie Highmore and Chalayan Grey Line, in New designers and work with NEW YORK, NEW YORK: Details of blogger Kirsten Knox all gathered York during fashion week. The RASSIN’S APPAREL HAS A QR established brands will help us the Versace for H&M launch to sip Budweisers and take in label, which comes in addition to CODE TWIST: American painter provide excitement and new are beginning to emerge and the ultra-preppy, wood-paneled the designer’s runway line, is a Laurance Rassin, known in the talent for Amazon’s growing it looks like New Yorkers will surroundings of the store. capsule collection of key pieces art world as an international fashion businesses,” said be in for quite a treat this fall. For Knox, who writes the designed to be “a wardrobe with rising star, is relaunching his Maria Renz, ceo of Myhabit and H&M has chosen to kick off Clothes Whisperer blog, the a modern relevance,” according apparel collection tonight during Endless, who also serves as vice the collaboration in New York experience was nothing new — to the design house. Fashion’s Night Out on the president of shoes and jewelry with a launch event slated for she’d worked in the first Rugby The collection spotlights second floor of Lord & Taylor at Amazon. Nov. 8. Donatella Versace will be store in Boston as a student. clean designs that play with in Manhattan. The L&T buyers “I feel like I should be folding proportions, such as cotton picked four dresses and some MORE FNO CELEBS: Jeffrey New sweaters,” she said with a slipdresses, a simple shift dress scarves for the event. All items York may be overrun by Harry laugh. “It’s a bit like a home with inventive draped details at are made in New York City. The Potter fans for Fashion’s Night from home.” the back and light outerwear in collection features selected Out tonight as actor Daniel As guests wandered the cocoon shapes. The line is done prints from Rassin’s artwork. Radcliffe is slated to make an handsome two-floor store, in a palette of white, gray, sage The front label of each item appearance around 10:30 p.m. they listened to the harmonies and tea rose, with a flash of indicates the brand LR 2012. The at the Meatpacking District of Flats and Sharps, a young tangerine. The spring collection label’s backside will showcase store. He’ll be accompanied by bluegrass band who hail will be shown to buyers at The in tech-speak a Quick Response Rose Hemingway, his Broadway from the unlikely location of News showroom during New code, in which a smartphone that co-star from “How To Penzance, Cornwall. In addition York Fashion Week and is reads the QR code will then be Succeed in Business Without to their turn for Rugby, the priced from 100 euros, or $140, taken to the L&T Web site. Really Trying,” for the party four young band members — for tops through to 520 euros, or Rassin, who says he has a celebrating the launch of the who play the mandolin, banjo, $730, for outerwear. patent pending on what he’s retailer’s collaboration with double bass and guitar — played calling G-Tech Tags, is hoping to Columbia Sportswear. Down the fashionable Port Eliot J. LINDEBERG’S NEW INVESTORS: up the ante on social shopping. the street at the Moschino festival earlier this summer. Swedish label J. Lindeberg The artist, who is also working boutique, Cyndi Lauper is has new owners. Last month, on a reality television show scheduled to arrive around 7:30 STYLE GURU: Jason Wu is about to be investors Allan Warburg, Dan Friis mixing art and fashion, will p.m. with a film crew in tow, Daniel appointed a connoisseur at the and Anders Holch Povlsen took a provide some entertainment as the singer is in the midst of Radcliffe St. Regis Hotels & Resorts, a role majority stake in the business. for FNO since his band will be

filming a reality show. FRED DUVAL/FILMMAGIC PHOTO BY held by polo player Nacho Figueras. The trio are all owners of playing at L&T as well. Good Coaching

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PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY — SAMANTHA CONTI

MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS: Christian Louboutin By George, He’s Got It opens first men’s store The always-stylish George Clooney came through again, in Paris. channeling Old Hollywood at the Venice Film Festival. Page MW2 Page MW2

September 8, 2011

Tommy Hilfiger

Dress Richard Chai Rehearsal An exclusive preview of what New York designers will be showing at fashion week, where updated iconic Americana is expected to be one of the leading trends.

J. Crew

Nautica Simon Spurr PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, KRISTEN WHALEN, JOHN AQUINO AND THOMAS IANNACCONE SOMODY GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY MW2 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 Men’s Week Louboutin Opens Paris Men’s Store Men’s Wearhouse Upbeat on B&T by ARNOLD J. KARR First unit devoted to men’s shoes will be forerunner to New York and London units. wear penetration at the two units by MILES SOCHA THE MEN’S WEARHOUSE Inc. had been “much higher” than ex- The “tattoo” expects fresh tailored clothing pected. PARIS — Many Paris boutiques close during bespoke corner silhouettes and strength in big & “Equally exciting is that this the August doldrums. Christian Louboutin tall to help keep its string of same- business is 300 basis points richer used the occasion to quietly open his first store sales increases in the U.S. for [gross] margin than regular men’s shop in the world here in the Galerie alive in the third quarter. sizes,” he added. Véro-Dodat — and already he’s been selling On a conference call to dis- In the three months ended some 25 pairs of shoes a day. cuss second-quarter results, July 30, net income was up 32.9 Emboldened by the robust response, which exceeded estimates, Doug percent to $57.1 million, or $1.09 a he said he soon plans to open a dedicated Ewert, president and chief ex- diluted share, from $43 million, or men’s boutique in New York, not far from ecutive officer, told analysts and 81 cents. Excluding nonrecurring his Horatio Street location, and another in shareholders, “Gains in fashion charges, earnings per share were London’s Mayfair district. trends are expected to provide $1.11, 7 cents higher than analysts, “They come in and they say, ‘What do all of our divisions an opportu- on average, had expected. you have with studs?’” Louboutin related nity to benefit from an inevitable Aided by volume from the Wednesday, sliding his feet into a pair of black replenishment cycle that could August 2010 acquisition last year loafers, the vamp sprouting dozens of bulbous be quite significant.” of the Dimensions and Alexandra tassels instead of the usual two. He noted that the leaner, tai- corporate apparel businesses in Prized for his red soles, sexy platforms lored clothing silhouettes favored the U.K., overall revenues were and inimitable French touch with women’s by designers in the past few years, up 22.1 percent to $655.5 million shoes, Louboutin started a men’s collection somewhat marked by suppressed waists on from $538 million. Gross margin by chance. suits, slimmer pants and shirts fell to 47.2 percent of sales from He attended the superhero-themed Costume and narrow ties, “are now becom- 48.5 percent a year ago. Institute ball at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New ing much more widely accepted in Sales were up 10.8 percent at York in 2008 wearing a pair of loafers pavéd in coni- the middle market and currently Men’s Wearhouse stores, to $407 cal silver studs, which caused a sensation and yielded represent only 15 percent of Men’s million, and rose 10.9 percent a spate of requests for special orders. “After 15 pairs, I Wearhouse inventory. We believe it on a comparable-store basis, thought, ‘Let’s do a production of them,’” he said. could grow significantly higher as while K&G picked up 5.7 per- Today, Louboutin sells men’s shoes in 34 of his our customers update their ward- cent to $92.5 million, with comps worldwide network of 44 boutiques as well as a handful robes over the near and mid-term.” ahead 5.4 percent. In Canada, of wholesale accounts, and is planning to expand his Christian Louboutin in his He cited big & tall as “the first Moores sales rose 12.3 percent men’s offering to include bags. new men’s-only store. and perhaps the most significant” to $80.3 million and were up The 750-square-foot Paris boutique is across the cov- growth driver being explored by 4.4 percent on a comp basis in ered passageway from his women’s shop, which opened an embroidered “leopard-skin” rug. the company, noting that its sales Canadian dollars. 20 years ago. It sets the template for future men’s out- Best-selling styles include high-top sneakers: 695 were up 20 percent year-to-date at The company expects third- posts with its rustic colors, rugged fixtures and interga- euros, or $993 at current exchange rates, for a studded Men’s Wearhouse and 18 percent quarter EPS of between 62 cents lactic touches. version; 1,595 euros, or $2,278, for ones pavéd in crys- at K&G, versus gains of 12 and 6 and 64 cents, with the higher fig- Designed by architect Eric Clough, with studded tals; and his Rollerboy studded loafers for 895 euros, percent, respectively, in regular ure corresponding to the upper leather floors by Mexican design purveyor Chic by or $1,278. sizes at those nameplates. end of analysts’ current estimates. Accident and leather wall panels embroidered by Jean- A neon sign glows above the store’s “Tattoo” room, Two big & tall test stores are Comps are expected to rise be- François Lesage, the luxuriously eclectic store features housing even fancier styles, including patent loaf- now open, Ewert said, and, while tween 2 and 3 percent at Men’s vintage airplane-seat armchairs, an original “Star ers embroidered with pearl tassels retailing for 1,495 he wouldn’t discuss overall re- Wearhouse and K&G and be flat to Trek” table-and-chair set, a patchwork tin ceiling, and euros, or $2,135. sults, he pointed out that sports- ahead 1 percent at Moores. Here, Louboutin plans a made-to-order service of- fering men the chance to have their emblematic tattoos — which he describes as a modern-day version of fam- ily crests — embroidered onto shoes, a service which Gastinne Renette Back in the Hunt will take about three months. by KATYA FOREMAN Photos of his heavily inked Welsh rugby buddy Gareth Thomas will shortly adorn the walls. PARIS — A pair of crossed dueling “What we sell is quite exceptional. The customer pistols form the logo of a new men’s here is not attached necessarily to old traditions,” and women’s apparel line, Gastinne Louboutin said, citing a young, plugged-in clientele, Renette by Vicomte A., which was some of whom are rabid collectors and buy in multiples. presented to a piercing chorus “I’m the same way. If I like a pair of shoes, I’m going of bugles at Paris’ Hunting and An overview of to buy two pairs,” said the designer, whose footwear Nature Museum earlier this week. the store. wardrobe numbers around 300 to 400 pairs. “I do see Vicomte A. founder Arthur de men getting excited about shoes, which is nice.” Soultrait, whose main line focuses on casual polo-inspired sportswear, Looks from recently acquired the defunct his- the new winter toric gunsmith brand, which was Gastinne Renette Man of once the official gunsmith to the by Vicomte A. line. court of Napoleon III, with a view THE WEEK GEORGE CLOONEY:A to relaunching the brand as a heri- full accessories line includes tage clothing line geared to attract a cashmere-lined leather gloves, broader clientele. Gastinne Renette ties, bow ties, belts and scarves. will turn 200 next year. Prices range from about 100 euros, Perfect salt-and-pepper hair A keen hunter, de Soultrait said or about $130 at current exchange The 50-year-old with enough volume on top for the new country-flavored Gastinne rates, for a polo shirt to 650 euros, eternal Hollywood a youthful and relaxed look. Renette line features the kinds of or $860, for a trench. pieces he and his friends could Vicomte A. expects to post sales bachelor looked wear on a typical weekend spent of roughly 13 million euros, or $18 dashing at the hunting at his country retreat in million, in 2011, up from 11 million Burgundy, but hopes the new col- euros, or $15 million, in 2010, ac- Venice Film Festival, Subtle character lines lection, which will be released cording to de Soultrait. Men’s wear channeling old-time show the lack of Botox — each winter, could also speak to generates around 70 percent of or a great dermatologist. a more mature client. “There’s a sales, and women’s wear 30 percent. movie stars like strong demand for authentic, heri- The brand sells to about 400 tage brands right now,” he said. doors worldwide and has two Cary Grant and Using Italian and British fabrics, stand-alone stores, in Paris and Peak lapel in giving new meaning Too perfect and the new collection melds urban cuts Palm Beach. Twenty-three stores, contrast silk is too flat — it looks and pops of color with old-school based mainly in France, have been to aging gracefully. the perfect choice like a clip-on. fabrics in an earthy palette. opened with partners. New stores for the occasion “Hunting wear has the reputa- are slated to open in Stockholm and, with the low tion for being a bit fuddy-duddy, so and Toulouse, France, this month. button stance, is He should be wearing a we wanted to do something a bit Vicomte A. is expanding into slenderizing. more playful,” said Bertrand Boll, a market that already has major shirt with a hidden placket who co-designs the line. Highlights players in the form of British com- to enhance the clean look. include tailored tweed jackets panies Holland & Holland, backed with asymmetric suede shoul- by the Wertheimer family that The fit is close to the body and hints of made-to- der patches, colorful corduroys, owns Chanel, and Purdey & Sons, measure. (It better be — it’s George Clooney.) a cropped trench in black watch which is owned by Richemont. waxed cotton, and denim. Both of those English brands have Traditional lace-ups are the ideal choice — and Knits and shirts carry toggles built up significant lifestyle busi- a better option than patent leather slip-ons. and buttons made from horn, nesses over the years on the backs PHOTO BY GIUSEPPE CACACE/AFP/GETTY IMAGES CACACE/AFP/GETTY GIUSEPPE BY PHOTO

mother-of-pearl and leather. A of their gun-making operations. LOUBOUTIN AND VICOMTE A. PHOTOS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 MW3

Duckie Brown Perry Ellis Last Call With New York Fashion Week getting under way, designers put last-minute touches on their lineups and finalize castings for their spring shows.

Parke & Ronen Robert Geller

Tim Coppens

FOR THE COMPLETE GALLERY, SEE WWD.com/ menswear-news.

Michael Bastian PHOTOS BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, ROBERT MITRA, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND KYLE ERICKSEN MITRA, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND KYLE GIANNONI, ROBERT WHALEN, GIOVANNI KRISTEN SOMODY PHOTOS BY DENIM UNZIPPED THE PERFECT FIT FOR YOUR BRAND MESSAGE The inaugural issue devoted entirely to denim

October 6, 2011

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NAMING FASHION AVENUE: 1972. A SPECIAL REPORT • SECTION II PAGE 2 NEW YORK’S GARMENT WWD CENTER

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SECTION II WWD.COM

NEW YORK’S GARMENT CENTER It’s Got — Personality The characters who roamed Seventh Avenue became an integral part of the area’s ambience. By Arthur Friedman

NEW YORK’S GARMENT DISTRICT is known for iconic images like rolling racks of dresses careening Mayor John Lindsay, councilwoman Carol Greitzer, and down Seventh Avenue, quintessential entrepreneurs executives Jerry Silverman and Abe Schrader adding the like Abe Schrader and Bud Konheim, leggy models name Fashion Avenue in the district in 1972. walking alongside yakking garmentos, and flamboy- ant designers rubbing elbows with first ladies and Ladies Who Lunch — all to the point of creating an identity that is a rarity in the history of American in- dustry and popular culture. The Garment Center’s culture also has a seedier side, one of mobsters and union bosses exerting their influence and trading cash in back rooms and loading docks, while politicians from Mayors Robert F. Wagner to Rudolph W. Giuliani flaunted their clout to gain favor and financial support from industry bigwigs. The post-World War II period through the Seventies could be called the heyday of the Garment District. The industry helped drive the era’s rapid growth in popula- tion and wealth, the burgeoning rise of the suburbs and an explosion of retail malls, discounters and national chains. This brought out the best in entrepreneurial spirit and ingenuity — and a new generation of crafty, gifted and sometimes unscrupulous businessmen. Many of these executives did business with the gangsters and powerful union leaders — sometimes voluntarily, some- times not — to make a buck and keep their businesses afloat, although most were tireless titans, as proud of their rags-to-riches journey as their ultimate success. Among these colorful characters: QAbe Schrader, an Eastern European immigrant who became a self-made millionaire. Schrader, who lived to be 100, said he made his first million in 1943. A few years later, he made the symbolically long trip from Eighth Avenue, where he had his contracting shop, to the showrooms of Seventh Avenue. He founded and became chairman of Abe Schrader Corp., which be- came a $70 million dress and separates company. In 1984, Schrader sold his company, which had gone pub- lic in 1969, to Interco Inc. for $38.2 million. Q Ben Shaw, known as Mr. Seventh Avenue. Shaw gained his reputation pulling purse strings for de- signers such as Donald Brooks, Norman Norell, Stephen Burrows, Dominic Rompollo, Jane Derby, Oscar de la Renta, Giorgio Sant’Angelo and Halston. Along the way, he brought Pierre Balmain to the U.S. and Gloria Vanderbilt to Seventh Avenue. Q Fred and John Pomerantz. In seven decades on Seventh Avenue, Fred Pomerantz went from cutting fabric to heading a diversified apparel firm that, at FOR MORE ON his retirement in 1982, had $250 million in sales. A THE GARMENT burly man with a rough-hewn manner and gravelly CENTER, SEE voice, Pomerantz’s career began in the Twenties, and he presided over coat, dress and uniform firms using WWD.com/ the Pomette and Silver Pom labels. fashion-news. In 1947, he began Leslie Fay as a dress firm, open-

ing production facilities in Wilkes-Barre, Pa. He was PIERRE SCHERMAN PHOTO BY known for having a tough hand with retailers, admit- ting after his retirement that he was “the most stub- internal expansion, exceeded $200 million in sales became president in 1932. Dubinsky’s 34-year reign born bastard in the dress business.” By the time he by 1980. But the investments soured, leading to a was marked by aggressive organizing, and ILGWU died in 1986, his son, John, had established himself Chapter 11 filing in 1982. It would emerge from bank- ranks swelled from 45,000 to 450,000 and came to as the company’s chief executive officer. ruptcy a year later. Saltzman stayed on until 1987. He dominate New York manufacturing. It was easy to By 1991, Leslie Fay’s volume had peaked at close died in 1990 at the age of 71. “look for the union label,” as the slogan went, be- to $900 million. Then, in late 1992, the company was QCarl Rosen, who shunned the emerging sportswear cause it was prevalent in the district. rocked by an accounting scandal in which two of its business in the Sixties to remain focused on the mod- One of the largest demonstrations occurred when executives fraudulently reported quarterly figures. erate dress trade. Rosen’s company, Puritan Fashions, more than 100,000 ILGWU members rallied nationwide, In April 1993, Leslie Fay was forced to declare bank- finding itself needing to catch up with competitors including in Manhattan, in support of Dressmakers ruptcy, where it remained for five tumultuous years such as Jonathan Logan, was astute enough in the Local 145’s strike against Besserman’s Dress Factory in and eventually folded. early Sixties to get the license for Beatles T-shirts and March 1958. More recently, in June 1994, striking Leslie Q David Schwartz and Maurice Saltzman, who were sweatshirts and sold a bunch of them to J.C. Penney Fay workers from five states were joined at a demon- known to be in a contest to run the first company to Co. It was a 1977 deal that brought Puritan the license stration in front of the brand’s headquarters at 1400 reach $100 million in sales. Schwartz got into the up- for Calvin Klein jeans and sportswear, propelling Broadway by other ILGWU members and trade union- and-coming business of women’s dresses in 1919 and the firm to sales of $250 million in 1981. Rosen’s son, ists affiliated with the AFL-CIO. The size of the crowd stayed in it until 1977, when he reluctantly retired as Andrew, has carried on his legacy, becoming a highly was estimated at 7,000 to 8,000 people. chairman of Jonathan Logan. Known as a man who successful industry executive himself with a number A year later, organized labor and the Labor was consumed by the business, Schwartz acquired of firms, including Theory. Department, driven by then-AFL-CIO president the Jonathan Logan Dress Co. in 1937. In 1960, he was In the back rooms and side streets over the years John Sweeney, led about 1,000 delegates and union the first to take a women’s apparel company public. In were “the silent partners,” as they were often called members down Seventh Avenue chanting, “No more 1963, Schwartz’s transformation of the company into a — union chiefs and organized crime ruffians. The sweatshops,” as the industry reeled from a series conglomerate led to Logan emerging as the victor in its relationship with the leaders of the International of fresh revelations of modern-day sweatshops that race with Bobbie Brooks to reach $100 million in sales. Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union and its latter-day, most people thought were in the past. Saltzman, the founder of Ritmor Mfg., a maker less powerful successor unions ran from cooperative Jay Mazur, president of UNITE (a successor to the of misses’ dresses under the Barbara Brooks brand, to controversial. Contract negotiations were almost ILGWU), told the crowd: “We’re here today to deliver changed the name and direction of the company in always combative and sometimes led to strikes and a message to our sisters and brothers who work in 1940, when it became Bobbie Brooks. Bobbie Brooks rallies on the streets of the Garment District. these buildings day and night, often in deplorable followed Jonathan Logan to the $100 million sales The ILGWU steadily built its membership and conditions, and to workers enslaved in El Monte, plateau in the Sixties and, through acquisition and gained substantial power under David Dubinsky, who {Continued on page 4} $'9(57,6(0(17

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SECTION II WWD.COM

NEW YORK’S GARMENT CENTER

{Continued from page 2} Like the design studios and showrooms it houses, Broadway was where popular-price dresses could Calif., and in factories in Chicago and Dallas and the Garment District has followed the trends. be found, 498 and 530 Seventh Avenue housed dress Atlanta, that we will make those who exploit labor The first garment center emerged out of the na- manufacturers, while 500 and 512 Seventh Avenue accountable for their actions. It’s time for a change.” tive tailoring, sewing and mercantile skills of the were the coat buildings. Although sometimes connected, the union leaders European immigrants newly arrived on American “Until all the manufacturing moved offshore, the didn’t leave the kind of mark on the industry that or- shores. Its first home was theirs: The Lower East place was absolutely abuzz, a beehive of activity,” ganized crime did. Side, where the mostly Jewish and Italian immi- said Konheim. “You couldn’t get down the street at The garment trade over the years was a favored way grants set up shops in their tenement homes, in store noontime. The atmosphere was amazing. It was a to launder mob money, and in the days before public fronts and on streets like Canal and Orchard, giving fashion show on the street with all the models going financing and off-shore manufacturing, the labor-inten- rise to what would long be one of the city’s most im- in and out of the showrooms, you had the Italian pat- sive, cash-strapped companies were often easy targets portant and identifiable industries. It would also give ternmakers talking shop and the garment executives for the Gambino, Gotti and Lucchese thugs. birth to a future generation of fashion executives who shooting the breeze.” As a result, loan-sharking became the most per- would have the culture and nuances of the garment Meanwhile, the district’s once-vital manufacturing vasive aspect of organized crime involvement in the trade ingrained in their heritage. base was fading away. By the Eighties, a large chunk industry over the years, run by the likes of Thomas As the city became more sophisticated and the of production shifted back to lower Manhattan, par- Lucchese’s cohort Anthony Salerno. In a 1977 federal population moved uptown, so did the garment cen- ticularly Chinatown, where a new immigrant class be- investigation, Lucchese was tied to such industry en- ter. By 1910, the district was centered at Madison came the sewers for the industry. But this period also trepreneurs as Alfred Rosengarten, who controlled Square — where Madison Avenue, Broadway and marked the rise of imports, and domestic manufactur- an array of dress firms, and Abraham Chait, a rack- East 23rd Street converge. But the tony ladies and ing jobs saw a rapid decline. At its peak in the mid- eteer, trucking company owner and apparel manu- gents that frequented the fashionable shopping strip Seventies, there had been 450,000 apparel production facturer who once took the Fifth Amendment when — anchored by the Ladies’ Mile — didn’t mix well jobs in New York, but by 2009, the city’s fashion indus- asked where he was born. with the factory workers and sewing shops. So over try employment — including all textile and apparel Trucking was also tantamount to mob influence dur- the next decade, merchants led by the Fifth Avenue manufacturing and wholesaling — stood at 87,500. ing the heyday of local manufacturing, and garment Association and the Save New York Committee lob- In May 1985, the New York Fashion Council, com- firms would be said to be “married” to their truck- bied Tammany Hall to force the manufacturers out. prising top executives in the apparel industry, sent ers. Brothers Thomas and Joseph Gambino were put Incidents like the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire and nu- a letter to then-Mayor Ed Koch appealing for an on trial in 1992 by then-Manhattan District Attorney merous strikes and labor unrest in the neighborhood easement of real estate pressures felt along Seventh Robert Morgenthau for illegally controlling garment in- aided their cause. Avenue. The NYFC also sought a general cleanup of dustry trucking. His young prosecutor at the trial, Eliot It was time to move again to what would become a the area, which during the Seventies and Eighties Spitzer, said the Gambinos’ business was built on their more permanent home. In September 1919, two sites were burdened by rising crime rates, dirty streets underworld reputation, the economic threat of barring along Seventh Avenue between 36th and 38th Streets and an unsavory image that discouraged many buy- manufacturers from shops if they didn’t “play by the were developed by the Garment Center Capitol Co., an ers from making trips to Manhattan. rules,” fraudulent billing and an occasional show of association of 38 women’s garment manufacturers, re- These conditions prevailed into the early force “where the velvet glove comes off.” vitalizing a vice-ridden area known as the Tenderloin. Nineties, when retail consolidation and recession were the culprits behind curtailed retail buying trips to New York. In 1993, as a reaction to that, the Pushcarts have long been a key Midtown Realtors Association, comprising landlords vehicle along Seventh Avenue. and property owners in the area, created the Fashion Center Business Improvement District. The FCBID operates on a budget derived from a surcharge on collected property taxes. Its continuing mission: providing private sanitation and a security force, resulting in cleaner streets and a safer atmo- sphere. Crime and grime dropped dramatically. So did the number of complaints about the district’s image. In 1996, the FCBID opened the industry’s first in- formation kiosk, on the northeast corner of Seventh Avenue and 39th Street, a place where buyers and tourists can get information like listings of companies in different segments of the industry and details on services, as well as entertainment. During this same period, the Council of Fashion Designers of America gave New York’s growing de- signer sportswear and ready-to-wear crowd a new home for its runway shows with the creation of 7th on Sixth, erecting tents in Bryant Park, on Sixth Avenue between West 40th and West 42nd Streets, behind the main branch of the New York Public Library. By centralizing the shows in a safe and comfortable en- vironment, the CFDA helped alleviate the chaotic, overcrowded conditions that buyers and press had to endure at the twice-a-year fashion shows in individ- ual showrooms. The tents have since moved uptown to Lincoln Center, however, contributing somewhat to the district’s loss of identity.

PHOTO FROM FAIRCHILD ARCHIVE PHOTO FROM FAIRCHILD The identity crisis can also be blamed on the con- solidation of the Garment District — now also known In the end, the Gambinos pleaded guilty to restraint Leadership was provided by men like coat manu- as the “Fashion Center” after the establishment of the of trade and competition and agreed to exit the truck- facturer Saul Singer, who was president of Garment FCBID — into the hands of fewer vendors, paralleling ing business in New York and pay a $12 million fine. Center Capitol; Reuben Sadowsky, who erected the the shrinking of department store nameplates. The Garment Center had changed over the 80 Sadowsky Building at 1372 Broadway — the first man- In April 2000, industry employment in the district years or so since moving to Midtown and embracing ufacturing site in “Garment Town” — and Max Meyer, fell to less than 50 percent for the first time, giving way mass manufacturing, modern marketing and public who rose from errand boy at coat firm A. Beller & Co. to areas like advertising, computer technology, health, financing, but from the stories passed down from one to become an owner and later one of the founders and law and education. Apparel manufacturing jobs in the generation to the next to personal reflections of those president of the Fashion Institute of Technology, an state stood at 16,000 at the end of May, up 0.1 percent who have endured, or the evolving dynamic that is educator and incubator for the industry to this day. for the month, but down 1.2 percent year-over-year, the Garment Center, one consistent theme has pre- The corporation erected 498 and 500 Seventh according to the state labor department. Longer-term vailed: the unparalleled entrepreneurial spirit of this Avenue at a cost of about $15 million for the buildings trends show New York City lost 64 percent of its ap- special class of immigrants and their progeny, one and $5 million for the land. In the period from 1921 parel manufacturing jobs from 2000 to 2010, employing that has been undeterred by Depression and reces- to 1926, more than $125 million was invested in con- 9,850, while textile production fell 75 percent to 2,920, sion, war and crime, politics or global competition. struction alone. By 1931, the Garment District had the according to Labor Department data. Konheim, ceo of Nicole Miller Ltd., said growing up largest concentration of apparel manufacturers in the Konheim said the change in the district from a in the business, what struck him over the years was world, covering an area from Sixth to Ninth Avenues time when everyone had their factories and ware- the familiarity — from the people to the restaurants. and from West 30th to West 42nd Streets. Through the houses down the street to today, when it’s primar- “When I was a young guy in the industry — and I Thirties, ILGWU membership had grown to 300,000. ily showrooms and other industries, has taken away started working here in the industry in 1955 — I was As the industry grew, truck traffic became more in- much of the dynamic. fourth generation and so was everybody else, or at tense, generating traffic of another kind — the char- “You had the truckers coming in every morning from least they had a father or a grandfather in the picture acteristic rolling racks and hand trucks steered by the factories to unload or pick up their goods, and there- somewhere,” he recalled. “It was like summer camp. “push boys,” who conveyed fabrics and finished gar- fore the racks and pushcarts were all over the streets,” When you would talk to someone one-on-one in the ments between buildings. he added. “You also had, until the 1980s, all the buying showroom or their offices, they always had the hot- In the Fifties and Sixties, the buildings in the offices, so salesmen would be running around deliver- test thing going. But when you would get together in a Garment Center became specialized, with companies ing samples and orders. Now they’re mostly gone and group on the street or over lunch, business was always from specific segments of the women’s market con- you have people doing business at trade shows in other lousy. There were more local restaurants, places like gregating together at one address. For example, 1385 parts of town. It’s still got personality, but its not what Gross’ dairy restaurant, that had personality.” Broadway was known as the bridal building, 1400 it once was — and it never will be the same.” $'9(57,6(0(17

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NEW YORK’S GARMENT CENTER

Fashion remains the backbone of the area, but many other industries are joining the neighborhood.

Evolutionary Road Changes in business have led to diversification along Seventh Avenue. By Marc Karimzadeh

MORE THAN HALF A CENTURY ago, Manhattan’s All this has given the neighborhood a distinct new you have to be able to go to the factories, which are Garment District was the bustling center of the and, some would say, altogether more pleasant flavor often supported by the bigger designers, find that American apparel industry — one that has landlords hopeful that they can raise empty sewing machine, and bring in a lady to make In its earlier years, it was dominated by mass pro- rents for new types of businesses, and designers fear- your clothes. I know they have landlords breathing duction, with factories focusing on particular classifi- ful that more factories could be forced to leave the down their necks, but they have a choice. They will cations of merchandise — such as outerwear, shirting, area. It has inspired various initiatives to stem the tide lose small creative designers [without the Garment hats, innerwear or dresses. and raise public awareness to find ways to preserve District], which in turn will affect New York fashion.” Fast forward 50 years, and the nature of the historic the Garment Center. Savage agreed that the district remains particularly district has changed quite significantly. Today, most of Today, many high-profile designers continue to pro- crucial to an emerging crop of designers, both home- those factories churning out mass market clothes have duce the lion’s share of their collections in New York, grown and from abroad. “It’s not only jobs, it’s pre- disappeared as production moved to Asia. Workers roll- among them Nanette Lepore, Yeohlee Teng, Jason Wu, serving New York fashion,” Savage said. “If there is no ing racks of clothing through the streets — once the Prabal Gurung and Maria Cornejo. factory to make samples to show buyers, and you can’t hallmark of the district — are few and far between, and Lepore, for instance, makes 85 percent of her col- make them in China where factories often have 10,000- fewer delivery trucks clog sidewalks or side streets. lection in New York, producing 20,000 to 25,000 units piece minimums, who will make them?” That said, designer ateliers, sample rooms and each month in about 10 factories and 10 more on ro- Most designers and manufacturers lauded the City manufacturing facilities with the know-how to cater to tation. The designer and her husband, Bob Savage, of New York and Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s adminis- more upscale designers continue to mark the neigh- have been vocal about their desire to keep production tration for grasping the importance of the fashion in- borhood — even as other business categories, from ar- in the district and avoid the fate of the Meatpacking dustry to New York’s economy, and understanding its chitects and graphic designers to advertising agencies, District, where the industry that gave it its name has need to remain in the Garment District. tech firms and nonprofit agencies have moved in. More all but disappeared in recent years. In 2010, the Design Trust for Public Space con- significantly, a 2005 rezoning of the Far West Side for “You get the sense that there is an understanding ducted an independent “Made in Midtown” study on the Hudson Yards development resulted in 22 new ho- with the city now,” said Lepore, sitting in her West the Garment Center, in partnership with the Council tels on the western edge of the district. 35th Street showroom. “If you are a young designer, of Fashion Designers of America, which gave a major WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 9 WWD.COM

boost to the District by stressing its continued impor- using technology to drive sustainability. Besides gener- to rent low-cost studios in the heart of the Garment tance to the local fashion industry. ating creativity, there is also proximity and time here. Center, as well as offering a mentor program over a “We will never go back to the kind of model where It’s speed to market and very sustainable. You don’t two-year period. The second installment will kick New York City produces millions of hats or undergar- have to fly your product halfway around the world.” off in May, when designers such as Antonio Azzuolo; ments,” said Jerome Chou, director of programs at Many echoed this sentiment, particularly at a time Arielle Shapiro of Ari Dein; Christian Cota, and Timo the Design Trust. “Instead, the Garment Center is a when locally made resources are gaining in popularity Weiland and Alan Eckstein of Timo Weiland move into research and development hub for fashion designers, again in other industries, like food. the Fashion Incubator studios at 209 West 38th Street. and that function is part of what makes New York City “The general public is beginning to understand, CFDA chief executive officer Steven Kolb said the a fashion capital. There are very concrete reasons it from an economic perspective, that their neighbors incubator “brought designers into the neighborhood makes sense to do business here. For designers, it’s are out of work because, in the larger picture, they who otherwise wouldn’t have had that opportunity, faster to work here, and you have that proximity to didn’t purchase something made here,” said designer more directly connecting them with area resources visit factories, be face-to-face with the manufacturer Anthony Lilore, who founded Restore Clothing with like suppliers and factories. and secure quality control.” “This is something we are com- The first phase of the two-part mitted to and something the neigh- survey established that almost 80 borhood is about, which is young tal- percent of emerging talent and 70 ent,” Kolb said. “When you’re new percent of the city’s established and young, you don’t have resources designers consider the Garment to make clothes in Asia, or to have a District as a key element to the production manager overseas.” strength of their businesses. “People Echoing that sentiment was had this idea that the Garment Joe Ferrara, who owns Ferrara Center is this dying, industrial Manufacturing, and who is also a di- relic,” Chou said. “I hope now the THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY rector of the Garment Center Supplier conversation shifted to the Garment Association and on the advisory board Center’s strengths, the value that it’s for the CFDA Fashion Incubator. providing not only to the fashion in- “We do not have any large, mass- dustry but also New York as a whole. producing organizations left in the “It’s also a really important Garment Center, but what we do have source for economic diversity,” he is an incredible incubator, where added. “The recession has proven to most of the resources are diversified,” everyone that New York City needs Ferrara said. “They are like speed a diverse economic base. We need ships. Anything that a young or mid- to be able to provide jobs, and the sized designer or a major label needs Garment Center is still an important to have made can be made here. Any part of that economic diversity.” burst of creative energy from a design The second phase of the study team or a designer can be translated.” is currently in the works, seek- Ferrara noted that such a model ing to deliver recommendations to is sustainable, even with continued city officials and others to sustain real estate pressure on high-densi- District factories while addressing ty factories, particularly once the the needs of the changing neighbor- economy recovers. hood. It is expected to be complete “The uses that have come in are early next year. everything from creative services, “It looks much more hopeful now nonprofits, arts and business-to-busi- than it did in the past because there ness services, and, at this point, of are so many people that are getting the 91,000 employees in the fashion involved on so many different lev- district, only 22.4 percent are actual- els,” said Anna Sui, who also makes ly fashion industry employees,” said most of her clothes in New York, Barbara Randall, executive direc- citing the Design Trust study as a tor of the Fashion Center Business major boost to a cause she is very Improvement District. “Probably passionate about. over 46 percent of space is still used

Sui said that while factories have by the fashion-industry, it uses much disappeared from the Garment more space.” District over the years, she is still With the influx of hotels and other able to work well out of the area. creative services, the feel of the “It’s the only way I know,” she said. neighborhood is beginning to change, “I need to have all the resources and becoming more viable to compa- here. I need to be able to say, ‘Oh, ·· nies outside of fashion. “These are I need a pewter button, the silver positive developments, but there is doesn’t look good,’ or, ‘The zipper a huge challenge in this neighbor- needs to be cut to the length because hood,” she said. “Production has I decided to shorten the jacket.’ been leaving for 60 years. This has “Quite honestly, it’s harder and been a steady trend, as designers harder because the resources are have taken their businesses overseas. consolidating, and there aren’t as When those uses left, there were va- many people making fabrics, trims cancies here. Owners let in other and buttons, but we are still able [categories], because if they didn’t, to find things,” she added. “Where the buildings would have been empty. there were 50 companies, there are The Fashion Center Business Improvement District’s information kiosk. “In just a few years, it could feel now five for buttons, and that goes very different here,” Randall added. all the way down the line. I don’t “Fashion is still by far the largest know how much further it can de- category we have and we really hope plete. I think something will happen it stays that way because these are and someone will be innovative and uses we want here. One of the inter- clever and hopefully we can even de- The recession has proven to everyone esting things is that we have a lot of velop some more things in this coun- nonprofits going into the buildings try again.” that New York City needs a diverse economic on Eighth Avenue. We have 150 arts Last October, Teng opened a uses. Those businesses have a nice boutique on West 38th Street last base…and the Garment Center is still an synergy with fashion because they’re October, hoping “to encourage some- creatively driven.” thing like a Lincoln Road on 38th Ferrara added that the challenges Street” — referring to the successful important part of that economic diversity. are ultimately twofold. reinvention of the once-dilapidated “From purely a garment center South Beach enclave. “What is pal- — JEROME CHOU, DESIGN TRUST FOR PUBLIC SPACE standpoint and preserving its charac- pable in the neighborhood is the ter, there are two challenges: Number creative edge that has insinuated one, that demand for manufacturing itself,” Teng said. “The district has, as demonstrated his wife, Celeste, and is an advocate for the Garment and assembly survives, and, number two, that zoning by the Made in Midtown study, evolved from a manu- Center. “The truth is, you have a brand here and that or some sort of city planning solution will keep manu- facturing [zone] to an incubation and innovation hub. is New York City as a fashion capital. It’s internation- facturing activity here,” he said. “If we are passive on Fashion is cohabitating with other design disciplines ally recognized. Once you kill the roots, everything both of those, there will be no demand for manufactur- making it possible that the area will evolve into an else will follow. It happened in the flower district and ing and there will be no commercial housing for manu- urban design center. It is that leap of faith that con- it happened in the Meatpacking District.” facturing. Passive is not an option.” vinced me to open my first retail store on 38th Street. Lilore, who manufacturers the bulk of his col- Lepore, for her part, has a very specific vision of “I think it’s really more about reimagining the poten- lection in New York, pointed to the CFDA Fashion how the district should look in the future: “I would tial,” Teng added. “You can never go back, but you need Incubator as a positive development to help bolster hope to see more guys pushing racks of clothes on the to think about what the future can potentially hold, the area. It allows a group of 12 selected designers ··street again.” 10 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2011

SECTION II WWD.COM

NEW YORK’S GARMENT CENTER Betsey Johnson helped launch the district’s bike-share program on Grass Roots Wednesday. Remodeling the district with measured steps. By Rosemary Feitelberg

DEPENDING ON WHOM you ask, saving the gar- years through Facebook and other means. ment center either means holding fast to the neigh- Its Web site, Savethegarmentcenter.org, borhood’s roots (and boundaries) or sprucing up the is being relaunched today with a greater area to appeal to an assortment of businesses. emphasis on how the design process There may not be any immediate plans in the works comes to fruition in the Garment District. for meetings to hash out potential new zoning, but “We want to create an inside look of the many other initiatives have taken hold in the district. Garment Center to try to grow consumer The Fashion Center Business Improvement appreciation for the process, and to de- District unveiled the neighborhood’s first bike-share bunk the myth that nothing is made in program Wednesday. Prabal Gurung, Betsey Johnson, America anymore,” she said. “That simply Elie Tahari, Rebecca Minkoff and Nanette Lepore isn’t the case. were among the 30 designers who customized the “At the moment, we are working to figure out Bowery Lane bicycles that can now be borrowed tem- how to mobilize the industry as a whole, and not just porarily from stations in the Garment Center or the those who have been consistently involved for the Meatpacking District. past four years,” Wolf added. Other community-minded efforts for all sorts of For those who are relatively new to the neigh- creative types take place throughout the fall, includ- borhood, Save the Garment Center refers emerg- ing next month’s arts festival. The fashion crowd is ing designers who inquire about getting some expected to be well-represented when the names of direction about the ins and outs of the apparel Ralph Rucci and Donald Brooks are added to the business to Andy Ward of the Garment Industry Fashion Walk of Fame. And to try to increase the Development Corp. Ward tries to help arrange neighborhoody feel, the Fashion Center Business mentorships. “Although our infrastructure is Improvement District will host Fashion District Kite small, we help each designer as much as we Flight on Sept. 18 on the roof of the Port Authority can,” Wolf said. “These aspiring designers Bus Terminal, where participants can try out kite- are most grateful for the guidance and for making, kite-flying, arts and crafts and free ice the assistance.” cream. There will also be live music, yoga demon- Yeohlee Teng, who has been steadfast in strations and dance performances. her efforts to try to keep the neighborhood’s As for designating an Eighth Avenue building for core intact, will showcase a few local up-and-com- be held Sept. 13 at Elettra Wiedmann’s apparel making for small New York-based labels — an ers at her space tonight during Fashion’s Night Out. Goodness, a pop-up restaurant in Ed’s idea championed by Andrew Rosen that has been ban- Three New York-made labels — Emmanuelle by Chowder House near Lincoln Center. died about in recent years — that has yet to material- Thomas Chen, Michael Harlan Bespoke and 1-100’s Over the summer, academics ize. FCBID’s executive director, Barbara Randall, said Graham Tabor and Miguel Villalobo — will each Sarah Williams and Elizabeth Currid- via e-mail Tuesday, “Honestly there is no progress on have a presence at her 25 West 38th Street site. The Halkett teamed up to oversee one of the one-stop manufacturing building proposed.” gathering is meant to support locally made goods, the more progressive studies of the area. Their “Check- A spokeswoman for New York City’s Economic something Teng has long been a proponent of with In Fashion” project used Foursquare’s social media Development Corp. said via e-mail Tuesday, “The her signature collection, as well as through the Made to map out how the industry is clustered throughout EDC is continuing to evaluate alternatives for pre- in Midtown initiative. The FNO crowd can learn all Manhattan. Williams serves as director of Columbia serving production space in the Garment Center and about the Made in Midtown study and how the ap- University’s Spatial Information Design Lab, and supporting the area’s revitalization. We are commit- parel industry energizes the area. was one of the fellows in Phase One of the Made in ted to the Garment Center’s function as a central Teng recently mulled over the idea of having an Midtown Study. Currid-Halkett is assistant professor place for fashion designers, suppliers and manufac- outpost that sells only New York-made clothes or a at University of Southern California’s School of Policy, turers to congregate, recognizing that it is essential concept shop within a major retailer. “I thought, ‘Why Planning and Development. Rather than purely looking to New York’s economy.” sit around and wait for someone to do it?’ I can’t do it at the neighborhood from a geographical standpoint, as The Council of Fashion Designers of America con- on the scale that Macy’s, Lord & Taylor or Saks could. in where companies are based, this project took more tinues to do its part by cultivating young talent through However, I decided I would do something,” she said. of an all-encompassing view. the CFDA Fashion Incubator program. The FNO shoppers can pitch in by buying “It’s very dynamic,” said Currid-Halkett, noting the new crop of designers at the West $25 tote bags. Proceeds will ben- study took place from July 18 to 29. “We’re not simply 38th Street location includes efit the Made in Midtown looking at where the design houses are located, but Antonio Azzuolo; Arielle study that is being where the employees go from 9 to 5. From a practical Shapiro of Ari Dein; conducted by The perspective, this informs the way the city can deal with Benjamin and Doug Design Trust for the fashion industry. We can quantify how important it Burkman of Burkman Public Space. The is for people in the industry to be around each other.” Brothers; Christian second phase of that Check-In Fashion rounded up designers and in- Cota; Emanuela Duca; survey is expected terns, having them use Foursquare technology via Ricky Hendry and to be revealed in the smartphones to check into each location they entered Marc Daniels of Isaora; weeks ahead. throughout their working day in the district for two Luis M. Fernandez of To try to further that weeks. By having them check into factories, suppli- Number:Lab; Reece Solomon cause, longtime fashion publi- ers, and other fashion-related businesses, research- of Reece Hudson; Maayan cist Claudine DeSola is opening ers could track how various people use the Garment Zilberman and Nikki Dekker the doors of the Caravan Stylist Center for their respective businesses. of The Lake & Stars, and Timo Studio, an appointment-only Clearly, the results will be pertinent for the “Save Weiland and Alan Eckstein of wardrobe studio for actors, mu- the Garment Center” campaign, but the program Timo Weiland. sicians and other VIPs that is also examines how workers interact with the entire Participants can also learn geared to furthering the Made city. The results will be released this fall by Williams more about the financial side of in Midtown initiative. Stylists and Currid-Halkett, but the pair declined to give any running a profitable business who work with top talent will clues about their conclusions. The aim is to quan- through a new partnership with have an open-door policy. The tify the importance of manufacturing firms in the New York University’s Stern 2,200-square-foot West 38th Street Garment District. The campaign aims to return Consulting Corps. As of Sept. 23, space, which bows next month, While not designated solely for Garment Center- some production to the area. designers will be able to work will also have a lounge, photo made goods, People’s Revolution publicist Kelly with selected NYU Stern M.B.A. and video studio and nail salon. Cutrone is cooking up an idea that could help local students who will help them de- Walter, Boy Meets Girl and Alice companies. She’s trying to iron out how domestic velop full financial statements, cash flow projections & Trixie are a few local labels that will be offered brands could institute red, white and blue bar codes to and investor-ready business plans. Once again, Target through the studio. DeSola is launching a fragrance help shoppers easily identify American-made goods. Corp. has renewed its support as an underwriter of the with Demeter, which will be given to every celebrity “I’m from Syracuse, which is the ultimate blue- Fashion Incubator program from 2012 through 2014. who visits the studio. It will also be for sale with 25 collar town. When I go back there, all these people The nonprofit Save the Garment Center is also percent of the proceeds are going to the Design Trust are out of work from factory jobs. But there are other trying to give newbies a helping hand. The group’s for Public Space’s Made In Midtown program. places like High Point, N.C., with really good facto- executive director, Erica Wolf, said awareness is on The studio will also have a Web site, caravanstylist- ries,” she said. “I would much rather give my money the rise but the zoning still needs to be sorted out. studio.com, that will be continually updated with videos to an American factory worker and know that is going Encouraging New York-based designers to bring back of VIPs talking up the designers they found. To spread to feed their kids and help their community. I don’t some production — even a small percentage — to the the word about the Caravan Stylist Studio, DeSola will care if people make things in China. I am all for a area is an important part of the equation, she said. host a launch party tonight in a pop-up shop at The Sky global economy. I would just like to be able to sup- In addition, her group is trying to widen its support Room. In addition, a play created by Paul Iacono will be port my own city. This is something that needs to be beyond the tried-and-true who have helped in recent performed in the space Friday night and a luncheon will done in America.”

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