An American Master IT’S HARD to IMAGINE FASHION WITHOUT OSCAR DE LA RENTA
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WWDWEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Oscar de la Renta An American Master IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE FASHION WITHOUT OSCAR DE LA RENTA. THROUGHOUT A CAREER THAT SPANNED MORE THAN 50 YEARS, HE MOVED RESOLUTELY WITH THE TIMES WHILE ADHERING TO HIS CORE BELIEF THAT A DESIGNER SERVES A NOBLE CAUSE: TO HELP WOMEN REALIZE THEIR BEAUTY. FOR FULL COVERAGE OF DE LA RENTA THROUGH THE YEARS, SEE PAGES 4 TO 18. Oscar de la Renta on the runway in spring 1993. PHOTO BY OLIVIER CLAISSE 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2014 WWD.COM High Court Hears Dolce, Gabbana Case THE BRIEFING BOX number of witnesses that were deemed relevant By LUISA ZARGANI to discuss the actual existence of the [Gado] IN TODAY’S WWD structure in Luxembourg.” Another issue at ROME — The Dolce and Gabbana tax case has the heart of the trial was what the defendants’ moved on to the highest level. lawyers called the “fictitious criteria” used to Bridget Foley’s Diary: One must cast a vast net to encompass all The first hearing at the Corte suprema di determine where the management of the com- of the lives Oscar de la Renta, who passed away on Monday night, Cassazione, Italy’s equivalent of the Supreme pany was located and where the decisions were has touched. PAGE 16 Court, took place in Rome on Tuesday morning. taken. The lawyers also lamented that the “sen- The imposing building overlooking the Tiber tence was issued in a few lines and carried out Pharrell Williams, rarely seen without wearing one of his treasured River, referred to as the “Palazzaccio” by the to everyone ipso facto.” Chanel sautoirs, is taking his relationship with the French brand one Romans for its grand dimensions and elaborate Following investigations that began in 2008, step further by appearing in a film by Karl Lagerfeld. PAGE 19 decorations — including a chariot pulling four initiated by the Guardia di Finanza, an Italian po- horses on the roof at the entrance — is intimi- lice force under the authority of the national min- American Apparel Inc. has rehired Iris Alonzo as senior creative dating in itself. The hearing was held in an ex- ister of economy and finance, Dolce and Gabbana director, according to sources. PAGE 19 pansive, high-vaulted, stuccoed marble room were charged with tax evasion related to the 2004 and was presided over by five judges, headed sale of the Dolce & Gabbana and D&G brands to Palladin Consumer Retail Partners has taken a majority investment by president Alfredo Teresi, seated at a long the designers’ Luxembourg-based holding com- PAGE 19 wooden desk structure almost entirely covered pany, Gado Srl. The Italian tax police reportedly in men’s luxury footwear firm Harrys of London. in files brimming with papers. consider Gado essentially a legal entity used to Lawyer Riccardo Olivo was present in place avoid Italy’s higher corporate taxes. Giacomo Corsi, who developed Ruffo into a state-of-the-art leather of the eight lawyers for the defendants: Stefano The lower court judges expressed their be- manufacturer, died Tuesday at age 60. PAGE 19 Gabbana, Alfonso and Domenico Dolce, Cristiana lief that Gado was only fictitiously based in Ruella, Giuseppe Minoni Luxembourg and that and Luciano Patelli. the administration and The Corte suprema di FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA None of the defendants main location of the @ WWD.com/social were in attendance. Cassazione heard the company’s activities Their lawyers, headed Dolce and Gabbana tax were in Italy. The ap- case on Tuesday. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS by Massimo Dinoia, are peals court upheld the [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. appealing a guilty ver- decision of the lower WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. dict handed down by a court, ruling the defen- COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 208, NO. 84. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2014. 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Address all editorial, business and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, tentional” plan to avoid six months of jail please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media, a higher tax rate in Italy, time. Dolce’s broth- 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at compared with rates in er Alfonso, Dolce & www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED Luxembourg, where they Gabbana general di- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND TRANSPARENCIES), had based ownership of rector Cristiana Ruella OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. their company. and finance director MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. The hearing at the Giuseppe Minoni were Cassazione, Italy’s high- sentenced to one year est court, was to de- and two months in jail Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685 showing the Ownership, Management and Circulation of WWD, published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, termine if there were plus legal expenses. October, November and December, and two additional issues in February and September for October 1, 2014. any procedural flaws None are likely to serve Publication No. 019-241. Annual subscription price $139.00. or breaches at a lower jail time, given the 1. Location of known office of Publication is 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. court level that might result in a reverse of the Italian practice of waiving incarceration for 2. Location of the Headquarters or General Business Offices of the Publisher is 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. appeals court’s decision. sentences of less than two years. 3. The names and addresses of the Publisher, Editor and Managing Editor are: Publisher, Paul Jowdy, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Editor, Edward Nardoza, 750 Third Avenue, 10017. General prosecutor Francesco Salzano is ex- The defendants, who have always denied all Managing Editor, Peter Sadera, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. pected to speak on Friday, when the judges are charges, were acquitted in June last year on the 4. The owner is: Fairchild Publishing, LLC, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. slated to issue their verdict. “The particular second count with which they were originally Stockholder: Directly or indirectly through intermediate corporations to the ultimate corporate parent, Penske Business Media, LLC, 11175 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025. complexity of the procedure and the high num- charged, regarding the valuation of the company 5. Known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total ber of defendants does not allow a treatment [of and the tax rate paid. amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities are: None. the case] during the hearing today,” said Teresi The defendants were originally absolved of 6. Extent and nature of circulation on Tuesday. the claims by a lower court in April 2011, but Average No. Copies each issue Single Issue nearest Judge Aldo Aceto, one of the four judge coun- the Cassazione in November 2012 overturned during preceding 12 months to filing date selors, summarized the past three years of trials that decision, saying that tax avoidance, or A.