TOC List The Chef’s Companion

Introduction:

Part I: Part II: Chapter 1: The Ingredients The Recipes • Fruit tart Sugars • Puff pastry: Napoleon, Pithivier, Jalousies, Fats Turnovers Leavening agents • Weekend gateau Simple / with filling Dairy products • Chocolate truffles Eggs • Trifle • Chapter 2: Equipping the Kitchen • Creams: Crème Anglaise, Bavarian Cream, Ice Appliances Cream, Pots de Crème, Crème Brulee Hand tools and small wares • Chocolate Mousse Workspace • • Linzer Torte with Variation Chapter 3: Basic Pastry Techniques • Apple Creaming • Pâte à Choux: Cream Puffs/Swans, Paris-Brest, Rubbing Profiteroles, Choucettes, Gougeres, Whipping • Crêpes Two-stage Blending • Berliner/Doughnuts Laminating • Sabayon with Berries or Gratinée

Interviews with the Masters • Stepane Treand, MOF France/USA • Sebastian Cannone, MOF & Jacquey Pfeiffer, France/USA • Lau Didier Rosada, World Baking Champion, France/USA • Laurent Branlard, Two-Time World Champion, France/USA • Frederic Deshayes, France/Singapore • Franz Ziegler, Switzerland • Fabian Reimer, Switzerland • Iginio Massari, Italy • Thomas Haas, Germany/Canada • Steran Riemer, Germany/USA • Anhil Rohira, India • Thaddeus DuBois, Former White House Executive Pastry Chef, USA • En Ming Hsu, World Pastry Champion, USA • Jean Pierre Wybau, Belgium • Susan Notter, England/USA • Pierre Zimmerman, France 2 the pastry chef’s apprentice 3

The good son. That’s how Thaddeus describes his formative years, first in California and later in Idaho. The third child of six siblings, he was the first one to help in the garden, to cook and clean in the kitchen, or to assist with other chores. He was the “goodie-goodie” at home and at school, where his work was in the top percentile. This behavior reflects the traits seemingly inherent in all great pastry chefs: the ability to work long hours, or- ganization, cooperation, teamwork, the desire to please others, and the determination to succeed.

Thaddeus Dubois, former White House Executive Pastry Chef and Culinary Mentor.

Living in the western United States where became more appealing. While in college, fruits and vegetables are easily grown, he worked in a pie shop/café making 400 his family’s hobby of gardening fueled pies per day and up to 1,000 per day in the Thaddeus’ appreciation of natural, local days preceding the Thanksgiving holiday. ingredients at an early age. It is not surpris- The determination to become more ef- ing that his first area of interest in school ficient and to create better pies ignited his was horticulture, which he considered as interest in a baking and pastry degree. As a a career, but like many young people, he result, he enrolled in the Culinary Institute would drift through several other areas of of America in Hyde Park, New York. study before he settled on the pastry arts. His flirtation with a music career lasted lon- ger, and he received two degrees in music, one in theory and one in performance. As he matured, the pragmatism of a steady job 4 the pastry chef’s apprentice thaddeus dubois 5

“The traits seemingly inherent in all great pastry chefs: the abil- ity to work long hours, organi- zation, cooperation, teamwork, the desire to please others, and the determination to succeed.”

His resume charted a course that could have been navigated by a five-star admi- ral. After graduation, he was the assistant pastry chef to the top sugar and chocolate I was introduced to Thaddeus in 1993 artist in the world. In the years that fol- when he was working at the Sun Valley lowed, he was pastry chef at the Fairmont Resort in Sun Valley, Idaho, to fulfill the Hotel in Washington, D.C., the Duquesne externship requirement for his diploma Club in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, the Beau from the CIA. There was a commitment Rivage Resort in Biloxi, Mississippi, and to the culinary arts in the kitchen, but the the Borgata Hotel and Casino in Atlantic level of professionalism matched the laid- City, New Jersey. back vibe of a mountain community. He was instantly noticeable in a large kitchen And then came the job that put him on with his spotless pressed uniform, tall the covers of newspapers and magazines: toque, crisp neckerchief, and a tool kit that Thaddeus was selected to be the Executive mimicked that of a surgical table. He would Pastry Chef to the President and First Lady work into the evening, so immersed that he of the United States of America in 2004. frequently missed meals. Reminding him He served his country and the first family to eat did not work; he had to be forced out for two years until he once again yielded to of the kitchen for rest and food. By the end the siren call of the hotel pastry kitchen. of his externship, it was obvious that the He returned to the Borgata in Atlantic City professionalism of the pastry and culinary where he is energized by having a creative kitchens had risen largely due to Thaddeus’ outlet and the ability to mentor the next example of determination, desire, and generation of pastry chefs. commitment to excellence—and this was from a student.

Most round fish have pesky pin bones that pin bone with a firm even tug, wiping your need to be removed before cooking. Also tweezers or pliers on a paper towel or damp known as intermuscular bones, the pin kitchen towel in between. Always pull in bones are “floating” bones that are not at- the direction that the bones grow and pull tached to the main skeleton. Some experts toward your body to prevent tearing the use ordinary needlenose pliers to remove delicate flesh of the fish. Inspect on the cut the bones; I prefer my small stainless steel side of the fillet at the head end to locate fish pliers. the thicker harder pin bones. See “Boning Fish Steak and Making Fish Roulade” for The pin bones start at the head end where instructions on removing the pin bones they are longest and stiffest, and run about from a fish steak. Alternatively, cut out the one-third of the length of the fish, gradually pin bones in a very narrow V-shaped slice. shortening and thinning with one bone per layer of flesh. Hold the fillet from under- Here we remove the pin bones from a neath or place the fillet on an inverted salmon fillet and a walleye fillet. bowl: The pin bones will poke out making them easier to find. Grab on to the pin Turn the fish fillet so that the head end is bone while applying even, flat pressure to toward your writing hand and the backbone the fillet with your other hand. Pull out the faces you. 6 the pastry chef’s apprentice thaddeus dubois 7

“A pastry chef is someone who is completely dedicated to his or her craft—passionate to the What role did mentoring point of being crazy—and is play in your pastry career, the neighbor who always brings and how do you uphold the to get-togethers.” unwritten code of great pastry chefs of passing the torch to the next generation? Any success I’ve had in my career is due to invaluable lessons I learned from Ewald Notter and Joe McKenna. In turn, I have had fifteen interns under my direction since achieving the title of pastry chef. It is of the utmost importance for our craft to be passed on the next generation, especially as the industry has gravitated toward fac- tory premade items. Interview with thaddeus dubois Which of your jobs enabled Was there a defining moment Unlike painting and sculpture, however, you to grow the most? or did you have an epiphany both vanish physically the moment they Surely, my first job helped me grow the Other than butter, , when you knew that baking are enjoyed. Music can be recorded and most. I was working as Ewald Notter’s photos of pastry can be taken, but the true assistant in Gaithersburg, Maryland. His sugar, eggs, and salt, what and pastry was more than a are the first ten ingredients love and would be your life’s moment of listening to a live performance utmost determination to push the envelope of music or enjoying the actual moment completely motivated me. I was able to you would select for your work? of eating a wonderful dessert are full of meet hundreds of pastry chefs, foodies, kitchen? I was always interested in four careers: nuances and subtleties which disappear entrepreneurs, and students who have Dark chocolate, , lemons, hazel- music, pastry arts, horticulture, and in the haze of memory. I don’t see many remained invaluable assets to my career. nuts, oranges, cinnamon, tapioca, heavy meteorology. I received two BAs in music; differences between the two. cream, apples, and agar-agar however, during these studies I became What advice would you offer more interested in pastry and thought it How would you describe a Other than an oven, which would make a better career. to someone interested in a pastry chef to someone who career in the pastry kitchen? items are essential for equipping your home What are the differences had never heard of one? Get a solid education and immediately A pastry chef is someone who is completely kitchen? and similarities between a work under the wing of a great pastry chef. dedicated to his or her craft—passionate Read everything possible about pastry A stand mixer with a minimum bowl career in music and a career to the point of being crazy—and is the including the new trends, compete, and of capacity of 5 quarts (4.7 L) , pastry bags in pastry? neighbor who always brings dessert to get- course, practice, practice, practice. and tips, parchment paper, nonstick mats, There are many similarities in the careers. togethers. commercial quality half-size sheet pans, a Both require thousands of hours of practice How would you define your hand whip, and tongs. perfecting coordination and precision of Your ascent to the top level style? Ingredient spotlight: the hands. They both require strength and Agar-Agar of your craft was rapid. How My style relies on using ingredients that If you had to choose between stamina in the amount of hours worked Agar-agar is a readily avail- do you explain that? are appropriate to the season, my location, only eating or only making and the difficulty of the work itself. They able gelatin alternative. It is I decided that if I were going to do this as a and my ability to combine flavors to suit the , which would you are both very rewarding and satisfying and tasteless and odor free, un- career that I wanted to move up quickly, so situation. I like to use fresh, local ingre- choose, and why? require time away from family and friends, like gelatin, which often has I worked incredibly long hours with many dients that fit the criteria for the event, I would choose making pastries because if one is to be truly successful. Both a noticeable aroma. It works great pastry chefs, did lots of competitions, restaurant, or show. My style depends on I have the need to experiment with food. involve creativity and produce results well in pastry applications read tons of books, and poured my entire what Mother Earth lays at my feet. I just It is gratifying to watch other’s enjoy my that are enjoyed by others. such as Bavarians and is life into it, like jumping head first into a hope she is happy after I have worked with creations. useful in work deep pool. her creations. like pate de fruit. 8 the pastry chef’s apprentice Chocolate Mousse 9

What was the most difficult skill for you to learn when you were beginning? Understanding the baking process. Know- ing when the different products are done to form maximum flavor. When I was What was it like being the learning, I would overbake or underbake What are the guiding pastry chef at the White almost everything. My chef at the time principles/rules of your House? Were there any asked why I had pulled that were kitchen? special challenges? clearly not done baking. I replied that they My kitchen rules are simple: Work as a Being the chef at the White House is like were firm and done. He pointed to the pale team and help each other. All of our as- working in a very small home kitchen try- edges and commented that they were not sociates are trained to do the work of their Yield: 3 lb, 4.96 oz. (1,505 g) 2 ing to serve one hundred or more plated properly caramelized and would be lacking coworkers. It allows for shift coverage, and Buche de Noels; 2 Buche de Noel and at a time and you have only the in flavor. Learning when something is done they are involved in training and mentor- 6 4.44 oz. (125.83 g) portions; or room to plate twenty of them. And, let’s not and when something is really done is an ac- ing each other. In many kitchens, there is 1 au chocolat and 1 Buche forget that you are serving the President quired skill. It seems that many beginners friction between the day, swing, and the de Noel. and First Lady of the United States and pull products from the oven based on a fear night shift. Cross training eliminates petty their invited guests. Truly, it was a great of overbaking. I tell my team that timers are behavior that can interfere with productiv- Prep time: active time, 20–25 min- honor to be selected for the position and I a guideline for judging the bake; they are ity and the growth of our associates. utes; time until service, 4 hours. will remember it forever. I decided to leave not a definitive signal to remove products due to isolation from the real world. I like from the oven. They should be bold when What do you bake at home? Equipment needed: Stand mixer with to surround myself with other chefs, col- baking. I do not bake much at home. I have all of whip attachment, saucepot, leagues, and young, inspired souls who are the equipment but no time. When I do, it’s thermometer, medium-size bowl, striving to make a career in pastry. This is a What is your thought a simple apple tart or chocolate mousse for spatula. people business, after all. process when writing a friends and family. My cooking at home is pastry menu? primarily vegetarian cuisine. As the pastry chef of a I write menus based on ingredient avail- large team, how is your time ability. Using ingredients out of season How do you stay motivated? divided? is unacceptable. Invariably someone will The love and passion I have for the profes- At the Borgata, there are twenty-five say, “Ah, but strawberries are in season sion itself is what keeps me motivated. Chocolate Mousse associates working under my direction, somewhere.” My reply is that, yes, indeed Advances in technology and equipment covering three shifts. Dividing my time they are, and that is where they should be keep me excited each and every day. by Thaddeus Dubois between them and other responsibilities used. My menus reflect my location and can be challenging. I make sure that my the season. What are your words Pastry chef Thaddeus Dubois’s chocolate Inclusions team members’ needs are taken care of to live by? mousse uses a classic pâte à bombe prepa- Ingredient U. S. Imperial Weight metric Weight volume ration, a technique that provides stability to first; that is approximately 40 percent of Keep moving forward. No one can do this Dark chocolate* 14 oz 400 g my day. They come first. 55 percent of profession for you. Life is short, so what- all mousses and adds richness, especially Unsweetened chocolate 1 oz 30 g my time is spent ordering, costing, writing ever you do, enjoy it to the fullest. to chocolate mousse. 1 menus, submitting payroll, reviewing facil- Heavy cream 1 lb, 5 oz 600 g 2 /2 cups 1 ity maintenance, and attending manage- Egg yolk 6 oz 175 g 3 /2 yolks 1 ment classes and meetings. The remain- Whole egg 2.5 oz 75 g 1 /2 eggs 1 ing 5 percent is spent on me—creating, Water 2.5 oz 75 g /3 cup experimenting, studying, and daydreaming 3 Sugar 5.25 oz 150 g /4 cup about pastry. It’s just enough time to keep me sane. *Couverature quality 55%–64%

Recipe notes: Eggs should be at room temperature. 10 the pastry chef’s apprentice Chocolate Mousse 11

Procedure Combine the dark and unsweetened 1 chocolate in a heatproof bowl and place over a pot of simmering water to melt. Maintain a temperature of 100°F (37°C).

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk 2 attachment or with a handheld whisk, whip the heavy cream to a soft peak (a). Refrigerate.

Place the eggs and egg yolks in the 3 bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment.

Whip the eggs and egg yolks on 4 medium speed. Set aside.

Stir the water and sugar together in a 5 small saucepan and heat over medium heat to 180°F (82°C) until the sugar is completely dissolved.

Slowly add the sugar syrup to the egg 6 mixture while beating on low speed (b). Whip the cream to Pour the sugar into the Note the consistency of the a soft peaks. b eggs while mixing. c whipped eggs and sugar. After the syrup has been added, 7 increase the mixing speed to medium-high.

Continue whipping until the mixture is 8 pale yellow, the side of the mixing bowl is cool, and the mixture forms a ribbon. This is your pâte à bombe (c).

Add the chocolate to the pâte à 9 bombe (d). Thaddeus prefers to cook the syrup to 180°F (82°C) Fold one third of the whipped cream instead of 250°F (121°C), 10 into the chocolate mixture. Fold in as has been traditionally the remaining cream (e). suggested; less because “it increases the moisture level 11 Spoon into cups, glasses, or molds and allows all the syrup to (f), or leave in the mixing bowl and flow from the pan into the serve later. whipping egg mixture. It is advantageous to cook it like 12 Refrigerate the mousse, covered, this if the mousse is to be until it is ready to serve. served in either an edible or inedible container in that the mousse can be served slightly softer, creating a more luxurious mouth feel.” Add the melted chocolate to Fold the whipped cream into Spoon the chocolate mousse d the egg and sugar mixture. e the chocolate mixture. f into serving glasses. 12 the pastry chef’s apprentice 13

Yield: 3lbs., 1.92 oz. (1,415) grams, 49 1-oz (28.35 g) squares or 24 (56.70 g) 2-oz rectangles. Prep time: active time, 25–30 1/2 hours. minutes; total time, 2 Equipment needed: Stand mixer with whip attachment, 2 heavy- bottomed pots, medium-size bowl, and large chef’s knife.

Fruits of the Field by Lauren V. Haas Variations of nougat are made in European Inclusions communities as a means to celebrate and Ingredient U. S. Imperial Weight metric Weight Volume preserve the flavors of spring and summer. 1 Dried blueberries 4.6 oz 130 grams /2 cup + 2 teaspoons This recipe submitted by Lauren V. Haas 3 employs Italian to provide struc- Pistachios 5.65 oz 170 grams /4 cup ture, consistency, and shelf life to a chewy, Candied violet petals 2.45 oz 85 grams 6 tablespoons creamy celebration of local ingredients. Freeze-dried strawberries, chopped 1.7 oz 50 grams 3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon Salt Pinch Pinch Pinch

Nougat base Ingredient U. S. Imperial Weight metric Weight Volume Dried egg white 0.35 oz 10 grams 2 teaspoons Granulated sugar 14.4 oz 410 grams 4 cups + 2 teaspoons 1 Fresh egg white 1.7 oz 50 grams 1 /3 egg whites Honey 8 oz 230 grams 1 cup 1 Glucose syrup 4.2 oz 120 grams /2 cup Water 3.5 oz 100 grams 6 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons Vanilla bean 1 bean 1 bean 1 bean Cocoa butter, melted 1.75 oz 50 grams 3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon Rose water 0.35 oz 10 grams 2 teaspoons Powdered sugar, for dusting Tempered couverture for dipping (optional, page XX) 14 the pastry chef’s apprentice Fruits of the Field Nougat 15

Procedure Prepare the inclusions: Gently stir 1 together the inclusions in a heatproof bowl and place in a warm oven (a).

Prepare the nougat base: Blend the 2 dried egg white with 1 oz (30 grams, or 2 tablespoons) of the sugar and combine with the fresh egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment.

Place the honey in a heavy-bottomed 3 pot and heat to a temperature of 248°F (120°C). Begin whipping the egg whites on medium speed when the temperature of the honey reaches 225°F (108°C).

When the temperature of the honey is 4 248°F (120°C), pour it slowly into the egg whites. Continue whipping.

Meanwhile, combine the remaining 5 sugar, glucose, water, and vanilla bean in a separate heavy-bottomed pot and Combine the inclusions b Add the syrup to whipped Add the melted heat to a temperature of 311°F (155°C). a prior to warming. egg whites. c cocoa butter.

Add the rose water to the cooked 6 syrup and pour slowly into the egg whites as you continue to whip (b).

Increase the mixing speed to high, 7 and whip for 3 minutes.

Add the melted cocoa butter and 8 blend in thoroughly (c). Warm the sides of the bowl with a kitchen torch if necessary to prevent any lumping of the cocoa butter (d).

Dust a work surface with powdered 9 sugar. Remove the nougat from the mixing bowl, placing it on the work surface, and gently add the warmed inclusions (e).

The finished egg-white mixture. Add the warmed d e inclusions. 16 the pastry chef’s apprentice Fruits of the Field Nougat 17

Procedure

Fold and knead the mass until the 10 inclusions are well distributed (f).

With a rolling pin, and the nougat 11 sandwiched between nonstick mats, roll the nougat into a 9 x 12-inch (23 x 30.5 cm) rectangle (g).

Let the nougat cool at room 12 temperature and cut into desired shapes (h).

The cut pieces may be dipped in 13 tempered couverture.

Fold in the inclusions. Roll the nougat between f g nonstick mats.

Cut the nougat. Dip the nougat into the h i tempered chocolate.