Exploring the Mississippi from the Twin Cities to the Quad Cities

May-June 2006 Summer Travel Issue! Time-TravelingTime-Traveling —— 1010 PlacesPlaces ThatThat WillWill TakeTake YouYou BackBack toto thethe 1800s1800s

Mudpuppies — Creatures of the River Bottom Restaurant Review: The Norton’s

www.big-river.com AT C LLIIA BELLE BBO CRU UU E S AAM UI JJ W EE SSE E A TT S OO TH A S N IN

35th Anniversary of Julia Belle Swain!

The Julia Belle Swain Steamboat, all decked out in red, white and blue bunting, provides a sentimental journey on a real steamboat cruising the Mighty Missis- sippi. The picturesque Julia Belle offers back-to-yesteryear public tours, private charters, and special theme cruises on the portion of the Mississippi that Mark Twain called the prettiest. Escape from the hurried world and go back to a more genteel time.The sound of the calliope and the whistle blowing brings back a voice of America’s past. The dining salon and mahogany bar provide meal and beverage service in the gracious manner of a bygone era. Come aboard for a local cruise with great food or just a short refreshing sight- seeing trip. Day trips depart from La Crosse, Wis. to Winona, Minn.; Lansing, Iowa; or Prairie du Chien, Wis. Don’t wait to explore the many possibilities on the beautiful Mississippi! Reservations are required. Call 800-815-1005. For schedules online: www.juliabelle.com Day trips Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Cruises Weddings Company Outings Reunions, etc.

Great River Steamboat Company, 227 Main Street, La Crosse, WI 54601 (608) 784-4882 Toll-free 1-800-815-1005 www.juliabelle.com May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 1

C OVERING THE U PPER M ISSISSIPPI SINCE 1993

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May-June 2006 FEATURES Go Time Traveling — Visit the 14 1800s This Summer Ten historic sites on the river await your ex- 35 ploration. By Pamela Eyden 22 Mississippi Mudpuppies These nocturnal creatures of the river bot- 14 tom are seldom seen. By Allen Blake Sheldon 27 Know Your River — Poolology The Upper Mississippi is a river of pools. By Reggie McLeod 28 Navigating the Mississippi in Art Muscatine Art Center hosts a show of paint- ings featuring canoes, keelboats, towboats and other river subjects. By Pamela Eyden 28 22 Restaurant Review 35 The Norton's Dine off the beaten path in Bay City, Wis. By Marc Hequet Book Review 39 Tales of a River Rat By Reggie McLeod 7 DEPARTMENTS 5 From the Riverbank 53 Advertiser Index Carps, pools and April Fools. Where did I see that ad…? By Reggie McLeod 55 River Calendar 7 River News Hike the woodlands, watch the birds. River dancing, limits on eating Pool 2 bluegills and River People a Dubuque brewery turns to making wine. 60 By Pamela Eyden, Marc Hequet, Mike Ironside Bob Myers, boat builder. Cover: The American Queen, by Robert J. Hurt By Gary Kramer Visit Historic Fulton, Illinois On the Banks of the Mississippi River touch

of class • Authentic Dutch Windmill INTERIORS • Heritage Canyon 1800’s Village • Martin House Museum • Great River Bike Trail • Lock & Dam 13 For Memorable Interiors • Great River Road • Lincoln Highway • Historic Downtown • Primary & vacation homes Shopping District • Consultation and/or full service • Dutch Days Festival May 5-6, 2006 • Space planning • National Night Out & Car Show July 29, 2006 • Downtown Sidewalk Sales & Kate Halverson, ASID, CID Community Garage Sales 30 + years experience August 5, 2006 • Fall Festival Minneapolis ~ Lake City, MN October 14 & 15, 2006 • Christmas Walk December 1& 2 www.tocinteriors.com 952.941.3023 Fulton Chamber of Commerce 1-815-589-4545 • www.cityoffulton.us

4BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 From the Big River™ Big River Magazine (ISSN 1070-8340) is pub- lished six times a year by Open River Press Riverbank with assistance from Riverwise, Inc., 70 1/2 E. Fourth St., PO Box 204, Winona, MN 55987; Reggie McLeod (507) 454-5949; fax: (507) 454-2133; email: [email protected]; Editor/Publisher website: www.big-river.com Reggie McLeod ...... editor/publisher Molly McGuire ...... managing editor Pamela Eyden ...... news/photo editor CARPS, POOLS AND APRIL FOOLS Marc Hequet ...... contributing editor, Twin Cities ver the winter I tend to work tion was from a guy who asked, Maureen J. Cooney ..office/sales too much and not get out- “What’s the DNR?” Kathy Delano ...... sales/design Odoors very much. So, my first He was from a state that had some- Robert Copeland ...... bookkeeping/subscriptions early spring excursions always set my thing like the Department of Natural Subscriptions are $27 for one year, $49 for two head spinning with plans for the Resources, but they didn’t call it that. years or $4.95 per single issue. Send subscrip- tions, single-copy orders and change-of-address summer. On the last Sunday in March So, a lot of what I had been speaking requests to Big River, PO Box 204, Winona, I was walking in a remote part of the about didn’t make much sense to MN 55987. Trempealeau Refuge with Pam at twi- him. That’s why we spell out Depart- Second-class postage paid at Winona, MN. light as hundreds of Canada geese ment of Natural Resources and other POSTMASTER: send change-of-address and tundra swans were settling into agency and organization names in its requests to Big River, PO Box 204, Winona, the backwaters for the evening. The first use in stories. MN 55987. biggest flock of swans that I have ever This winter I was visiting with Big River Magazine, Volume 14, Number 3, copyright May 2006. Reproduction in whole seen flew over us in a perfect V. I someone who has read Big River for a or in part without written permission of the grabbed the binoculars and counted few years. He asked me to explain publisher is prohibited. Printed on recycled pa- the birds in the shorter arm of the V. pools. “Stories are always referring to per. 105! There were at least 220 birds in this pool or that pool, but you never say what a pool is.” “Stories are always Oops. So in “Poolology” I attempt to referring to this pool or remedy that oversight. I’m sure it’s that pool, but you never not the only thing we’ve overlooked, say what a pool is.” so don’t be shy about holding us ac- countable. And speaking of holding us ac- COMING that flock. Three more flocks of about countable, we always slip a story into IN THE NEAR FUTURE that size flew over us as we hurried the March-April issue that is fun but back to the car. simply isn’t true. This year that was The May-June issue of Big River is the short news item “Real River Peregrine Update always the most exciting one for us, Fare,” about the river cuisine at a fic- because as we are enjoying the first tional restaurant, Scales, in a nonexis- The Blufflands Alliance days of spring, we’re working to tent town, Ouacachita, Iowa. Though launch our readers into some new it is a phony story, it is an attempt to New-fangled Bilge Filters summer adventures. We’re always promote the idea of a river restaurant trying to maintain that fine balance serving some fancy carp dishes. This where we can, at the same time, en- could benefit the river and commer- tertain experienced river rats, casual cial fishermen, as well as diners who river users and people who are just will get the opportunity to enjoy one discovering the river. I remember of the world’s most popular fish. once, years ago, speaking about the Eventually some clever, good-looking river to an elderhostel group. At the restauranteur will seize on the idea. end of my presentation the first ques- Carpe carp and enjoy the spring. F

Contacts (800) 303-8201. For information about stories, columns and River News, contact Reggie McLeod, Pamela Eyden or Molly McGuire ([email protected]). For calendar events, contact Kathy Delano or Molly McGuire ([email protected]). For information about placing an ad in Big River or for information about selling Big River magazines contact Kathy Delano or Maureen J. Cooney ([email protected]). We must receive calendar events by May 22 to get them into the July-August 2006 magazine. We must receive ads by May 10.

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6BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 River News

St. Paul

Minneapolis Prescott Bird Flu Watch Hastings Diamond Bluff Bay City Washington, D.C. — Birds migrating Red Wing Maiden Rock Stockholm down the Upper Mississippi River Lake City Pepin from Alaska and Canada this fall Reads Landing Nelson Wabasha WISCONSIN could bring the highly pathogenic Kellogg Alma Minneiska Buffalo City H5N1 virus, dubbed bird flu, with MINNESOTA Fountain City them. Preparing for this possibility, Winona Trempealeau the U.S. Department of Agriculture Onalaska has teamed up with the U.S. Fish and La Crescent La Crosse Wildlife Service and the U.S. Depart- Brownsville Stoddard ment of Health and Human Services Genoa to screen for wild and domestic birds records on environmen- New Albin Victory Desoto infected with the virus. tal issues. For the 2005 ses- Lansing Ferryville Although human outbreaks of sion the LCV gave two sen- Lynxville H5N1 around the world have been ators from Illinois and one Harpers Ferry limited, so far, to people who work or from Iowa the highest score of Marquette Prairie du Chien McGregor live closely with infected birds or all senators in states bordering Wyalusing Clayton Bagley their droppings, many worry that the the Upper Mississippi. Senators Glen Haven virus could mutate into one easily Barack Obama (D-Ill.), Richard Guttenberg Cassville Potosi spread between humans. Durbin (D-Ill.) and Tom Harkin (D- North Buena Vista Dickeyville The interagency plan calls for five Iowa) scored 95 out of 100 points. Dubuque activities to provide an early warning: Mark Dayton (D-Minn.) and Russ East Dubuque Galena investigate disease in wild birds; ex- Feingold (D-Wis.) both scored 90; IOWA Elizabeth Bellevue pand the monitoring of wild birds; Herb Kohl (D-Wis.) scored 75; Norm Hanover Savanna monitor birds killed by hunters; keep Coleman (R-Minn.) scored 35; and Sabula an eye on backyard poultry flocks; Charles Grassley (R-Iowa) scored just ILLINOIS Thomson and sample water and bird feces. 10. Clinton Fulton Camanche Health and Human Services Secre- Senators from downriver states Albany LeClaire Cordova tary Mike Leavitt said his agency is scored lower, except for Arkansas, 60 Port Byron holding planning summits in all 50 and 65 points. The other scores were: Bettendorf East Moline Davenport Moline states and providing checklists to lo- Missouri, 0 and 15; Kentucky, 0 and Buffalo Muscatine Rock Island cal and state governments, business- 0; Tennessee, 5 and 15; Mississippi, 0 es, schools and other organizations. and 0; and Louisiana, 10 and 50. Quad “Any community that fails to pre- For scorecards of U.S. representa- pare — with the expectation that the tives, see the LCV website. Cities federal government can offer a lifeline — will be tragically wrong,” he Riverfront Developments toric Landmark that once was the na- warned. Minneapolis — Some very tall river- tion’s largest flour processing facility. front buildings are planned for both The project includes renovation of the Senators’ Scorecards Minneapolis and St. Paul. mill. Washington, D.C. — In its annual The Minneapolis City Council ap- Developer Schafer Richardson Inc., National Environmental Scorecard, proved a proposal in February for an of Minneapolis, says construction the nonprofit League of Conservation 11-building riverfront project that could begin this year on the $400 mil- Voters (LCV) ranks U.S. senators and would include four towers ranging lion condominium development. (Star representatives on their voting from 15 to 27 stories. The decision Tribune, 2-24-06) trumped the Minneapolis Heritage Meanwhile, a few miles down- Visit the Big River Home page Commission, which rejected the tall stream, another developer has pro- buildings while approving seven oth- posed a 30-story Westin hotel for the (www.big-river.com) for links to er buildings. The commission said the Bridges of St. Paul, a big development information about stories marked tallest towers would dwarf the his- under consideration for the West Side with the mouse . toric Pillsbury A Mill, a National His- Flats across from downtown St. Paul.

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 7 Bridges of St. Paul developer JLT Daniel Wilcox, project manager with Group Inc., of St. Paul, faces a gaunt- the Corps’ St. Paul District. let of regulatory approval for its pro- Barges have hit the dam 11 times posal. West Side locals are already up since 1968. in arms over proposed buildings in “It’s really just a matter of time be- another development that would rise fore we get a fatality, and that’s what a mere six stories. we’re trying to avoid,” said James Ul- Farther downstream, 27 acres of rick, also a Corps project manager the St. Paul Stockyards were sold in with the district. March to a developer who plans to build offices, warehouses and indus- Lock & Dam 11 Fixes trial buildings on the riverfront land. Dubuque, Iowa — Lock and Dam 11, The stockyards, which have been at Dubuque, is undergoing a $26.9 in South St. Paul since 1886, will relo- million rehabilitation, including cate to Zumbrota and Albany, Minn., resurfacing of the lock chamber, re- New location where taxes and municipal sewer and pairing concrete on the upper and water costs are lower. (St. Paul Pioneer lower guidewalls, replacing the lock 162 West 2nd Street Press, 3-24-06) machinery, installing new down- stream bulkhead slots, and replacing Winona, Minn. Lock & Dam 3 Fixes the lock’s electrical systems. Red Wing, Minn. — Safety improve- The lock was closed last October 507-452-7020 ments to Lock and Dam 3, at Red and most of the major work was Wing, may begin in 2007, according done during the winter months. Lock to the Army Corps of Engineers. The service resumed this spring when the Corps is completing studies and ask- river opened for navigation. The re- ORGANICALLY GROWN ing Congress for $62 million for the hab work is scheduled to be complet- COFFEES changes. ed in the summer of 2007. Miter gates TEA • ESPRESSO Proposed improvements include will be repaired or replaced under fu- lengthening the upstream guide wall ture contracts. on the Minnesota side and dredging Meanwhile, you can watch the to modify the current that now some- work in progress from Dubuque’s Ea- times sweeps downstream tows out gle Point Park. BREAKFAST First opened in September of 1937, SOUP • SALAD That would threaten the lock has “virtually remained un- shipping and shut touched without improvements since SANDWICHES its initial construction,” according to PASTRIES down the Prairie Island the Army Corps of Engineers Rock Is- nuclear power plant, land District. Made from scratch which relies on cooling Farming for the River using fresh, water from the river. St. Paul — University of Minnesota organically grown, scientists are studying hazelnuts, al- local ingredients, into the gated part of the dam. The falfa and other cash crops for the Corps would also repair the eroded Minnesota River watershed — peren- whenever possible. embankment on the Wisconsin side. nials that won’t require fertilizer and One concern is that a tow might pesticides. The corn and soybeans hit the dam and block one or more of that now dominate fields flanking the its roller gates, forcing water to over- river require both, sending pollutants flow the Wisconsin embankment, into the Minnesota River. The Min- drawing down the upstream pool. nesota River is among the most pol- That would threaten shipping and luted rivers in the U.S. and is the shut down the Prairie Island nuclear state’s largest contributor to the nu- power plant, which relies on cooling trient load that kills off marine life in water from the river. A coal-burner the Gulf of Mexico’s Dead Zone. farther upstream might have to shut Hazelnuts in Minnesota? “The nat- down as well. ural range is into Canada,” said Dean What is the risk? “If we don’t do Current, director of the University of anything, it’s pretty high,” said Minnesota’s Center for Integrated

8BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 Dancers in St. Louis rehearse for the simultaneous, seven-city performance of “One River Mississippi” on June 24. Some of the dances will involve barges, speedboats and tall buildings. (Marylee Hardenbergh)

Natural Resources and Agricultural said director Marylee Hardenbergh. Management. His collaborator at the Dancers at Lake Itasca, Minneapo- University of Minnesota is Ken lis, the Quad Cities, St. Louis, Mem- Brooks. phis, New Orleans and Plaquemines In other words, you could eat your Parish will dance to the same music hazelnut gelato locally and think at the same time on “found stages” globally. New hazelnut bushes would that showcase the river. At various produce their first crop in six years. sites, dancers will dance on boats, Researchers are also considering barges, bridges and buildings on both more prosaic plants — willows, alfal- fa and natural prairie grasses — in One River Mississippi aims search of crops that make money for to “bring joy and attention farmers but don’t require pesticides or fertilizers. to the health of the Current advocates government Mississippi.” payments to farmers who would plant crops that keep pesticide and sides of the river. Local choreogra- fertilizer out of the river. “If we are phers and dancers will plan and per- actually cleaning up the river, we form the dances. All seven communi- think it might be reasonable to ask for ties will share a common sound sys- payments for that service,” he said. tem. “Farmers now are putting chemicals The performance will begin at 7:12 on and getting paid subsidies. We’re p.m., when participants in Itasca call saying here’s an option.” out “One Mississippi!” Then Min- neapolis participants will call out River Dancing “Two Mississippi!” and so on down Itasca to Louisiana — On June 24, the river. All seven audiences will cre- head out to the “One River Mississip- ate a chord together, with Itasca pi” site nearest you for a one-of-a- singing one note, Minneapolis adding kind, never-been-done-before arts the next note, and so on until all sev- event. It’s a simultaneous, seven-site en notes sound together. That’s when interpretive dance along the banks of the dancing begins. the Mississippi. Hardenbergh has 25 years of expe- One River Mississippi aims to draw rience creating large outdoor perfor- attention to the connection between mances. She has produced the Sol- people and ecosystems up and down stice River dance celebration on the the river, and to “bring joy and atten- Stone Arch Bridge across the Missis- tion to the health of the Mississippi,” sippi in Minneapolis for nine years.

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 9 RAGBRAI Muscatine, Iowa — The 444-mile Register’s Annual Great Bicycle Ride Across Iowa, better known as RAG- BRAI, will start on the banks of the Missouri River and end on the banks of the Mississippi this year. About 7,000 riders will cruise into Muscatine on the weekend of July 29. Muscatine has been the endpoint five times since the ride began in 1973. This year the RAGBRAI riders and several thou- sand more friends and supporters High resolution cameras have captured images of a great river valley on Mars that once carried as will arrive in town the same weekend much water as the Mississippi.That was before the planet dried up. In this photo, the river is seen on of the community’s annual three-day the far left side, running vertically in a meandering course. (European Space Agency) festival, Great River Days. the same amount of water probably some areas in even higher resolution Martian Steamboats? flowed out of the region as currently — two meters per pixel. Some images Paris — Photographs of the Libya flows out of the “middle reaches” of are viewable on the ESA website. Montes region of Mars, released in the Mississippi River, according to the late March by the European Space ESA website. More Refined Agency (ESA), show a 400 km (248 The images were taken by the St. Paul — Flint Hills Resources, a re- mile)-long valley that was carved into High Resolution Stereo Camera on fining and chemicals company owned the surface about 3,500 million years board the ESA’s Mars Express space- by Koch Industries Inc., wants to ex- ago, when the planet was warm and ship, launched in June 2003. Mars Ex- pand its Pine Bend Refinery in Rose- wet. The valley appears to be a broad press is scanning for signs of water. It mount, Minn., to meet increased mar- river valley that contains a deeper in- is also mapping the entire surface of ket demand. The refinery is already terior valley. Scientists estimate that the planet at 10 meters per pixel and the largest in any state without oil

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Turn off main channel just North of Mile Marker 747.9. Follow marked channel to Wisconsin shore. Turn left and follow shore to harbor. Monitors Channel 16. G 121 W. Second St. • Winona, MN r iver r 507-452-1815 • www.bluff.coop eat R Harbo S 2221 Hwy 35, Alma, WI Expanding store hours June 1st 608-248-2454 or 608-248-3393 See website for details greatriverharbor.com or funsun.com

10 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 wells. The current maximum capacity Turtle Express of 100,000 barrels of crude oil per day Minneapolis — After an environ- would be increased to 150,000 barrels mental review for a proposed com- per day. muter train from downtown Min- An Environmental Assessment neapolis north to Big Lake, Minn., Worksheet was released at the end of found the route cuts right across March. A public comment period was Blanding’s turtle habitat, planners at scheduled to end in late April, after the Minnesota Department of Trans- which the Minnesota Pollution Con- portation went back to the drawing trol Agency will decide whether a board. Blanding’s turtles are classified more thorough Environmental Impact as threatened in Minnesota and Wis- Statement is needed. consin, and endangered in North 205 1st Street The company is also proposing to Dakota, New York and Maine. P.O. Box 145 build a second oil pipeline across Anoka County, like many lands Minnesota, to bring more crude oil bordering the Mississippi, is a sandy Pepin,WI 54759 from Alberta and Saskatchewan, plain that once provided homes and Open 7 days a week Canada. nesting areas for large populations of Flint Hills has a mixed environ- turtles. Now it provides habitat for Breakfast mental record at Pine Bend. In 2000 it large populations of people. Upgrad- Saturday and Sunday was fined $6 million for negligently ing the existing Burlington Northern 7 a.m. - 11:30 a.m. discharging oil and wastewater from Santa Fe tracks to carry passenger the refinery into a wetland next to the trains could disturb the turtles and Lunch 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. daily Mississippi River. State and federal destroy some of their remaining habi- Dinner agencies have fined it a total of $19 tat. Sunday - Thursday 4 - 9 p.m. million for pollution-related fines To protect them, Northstar project since 1998. In response to those fines, workers will control erosion, put up Friday & Saturday 4 - 10 p.m. the company set up a partnership barriers to keep turtles out of con- with the Minnesota Center for Envi- struction zones, and pick them up ronmental Advocacy (MCEA) to re- and take them out of harm’s way if duce its waste, air and water emis- they crawl in. The yellow-necked, sions by half in five years. So far, it dome-backed reptiles are a wander- has exceeded its goal. ing breed. Not only do they move about from one wetland to another River Prison throughout the summer, but they also Thomson, Ill. — Illinois Governor walk as far as a mile to lay their eggs Rod Blagojevich wants to open the at traditional sites. state prison in Thomson by the fall of The Northstar line is scheduled to 2006. In his annual budget the gover- run 18 trains a day, starting in 2009. nor requested $7.7 million for a America’s River Festival Folks in Carroll County are Dubuque, Iowa — Inspired by the Smith Brothers taking a wait-and-see success of Grand Excursion 2004, or- Landing attitude. ganizers in Dubuque followed up the Decorative Metal Work next year with an America’s River scaled-down opening of the prison, Festival. That one was dampened by supporting 200 minimum-security in- rain and bad weather, but they’ll try mates, and 75 guards and staff mem- again this year on the weekend of Perennials and Hosta Sales bers — just a tenth of the number June 9 to 11. Unique Woodwork originally intended when the prison The festival includes concerts, the Fused Glass was built in 2001. Folks in Carroll ESPN Bass Masters bass fishing tour- Crafts County are taking a wait-and-see atti- nament, a lumberjack competition, Open daily - call ahead tude. The proposal was still in the hot air balloon rides, an art festival for item availability budget in mid-April, but senators and a contest in which dogs will com- were vowing to cut at least $200 mil- pete to see which can jump the far- 200 East Marina Dr. lion from programs, paring back thest off a dock into the river. (Next to Pickle Factory) Blagojevich’s increased spending. (See Live music on two stages will be Pepin, WI 54759 “Prison Holds Thomson’s Economy the central focus for many. Featured Phone: (715) 442-2248 Hostage” in March-April Big River.) main stage performers include the [email protected]

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 11 Charlie Daniels Band on Friday, June will be considered for display. duction afterward. It was twice sold 9, and Styx on Saturday, June 10. A Meanwhile, an old brewery on to other beermakers and then to the variety of local and regional enter- Dubuque’s riverfront may soon be city in 1999. The massive red brick tainers will also perform. making wine. The City of Dubuque, building has stood empty since then, Admission to the festival is free, which owns the landmark Star Brew- while developers have transformed but entertainment on the main stage ery building just north of Ice Harbor, the riverfront around it. will cost $15 each for Friday or Satur- was finalizing agreements in late The centerpiece of that river devel- day, $10 for Sunday. Or you can buy a March to sell it to the Stone Cliff Win- opment is the National Mississippi $25 bracelet, good for the entire ery, in nearby Durango, Iowa. River Museum and Aquarium, which weekend. will open a new “Catfish Planet” ex- The National Mississippi Turning Beer to Wine hibit on Memorial Day featuring River Museum and more than 100 species of catfishes Dubuque, Iowa — Two new projects from around the world, including have been announced for Dubuque’s Aquarium will open a new electric, glass and walking catfish. riverfront. The first, a public art pro- “Catfish Planet” exhibit gram, “Art on the River,” will put Bluegill Warning sculptures along the streets and side- featuring more than 100 St. Paul — Bluegill, sunfish and walks of the city’s riverfront develop- species of catfishes smallmouth bass from Pool 2 of the ment. Mississippi — from Hastings, Minn., The Dubuque City Council will The first floor would become a to the Ford Dam in St. Paul — have commission works from local and re- wine production and tasting room, measurable levels of PFOS, a perflu- gional artists, and display them at 10 according to Nan Smith, owner of ourochemical (PFC), and should not locations on the riverfront from Sep- Stone Cliff Winery. Concerts will be be eaten more than once a week, ac- tember 2006 to May 2007. The art- staged in the open amphitheater out- cording to a revised Fish Consump- work will be sold at an auction in side. tion Advisory issued by the Minneso- May 2007, and a portion of the pro- The Star Brewery began in 1898, ta Department of Health. ceeds will fund future commissions. closed during Prohibition and was The previous advisory listed the fish Each year, a new series of proposals the only Iowa brewery to resume pro- as safe to eat in unlimited quantities.

Laura Ingalls Wilder Historical Society

Little House Wayside, Pepin, Wis- consin

Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum Great River Cafe Hwy 35 (306 Third Street) Freshly made breakfast specialties, gourmet pastries, P.O. Box 269, Pepin, WI 54759 soups, salads, Panini sandwiches, wraps & desserts Museum hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily Chocolate Shoppe Ice Cream May 15th to October 15th (800) 442-3011 Full Espresso Bar with our fresh-roasted coffees! www.pepinwisconsin.com Take home some Mississippi Mud TM

We carry all of the Laura Ingalls Wilder books plus others, in- Relax on our outdoor patio surrounded by cluding Little House in the Big Woods and Laura’s Album. extensive perennial gardens

Laura Ingalls Wilder Days The Little House Wayside and Second Full Weekend in September Great River Coffee Roasters Cabin depend solely on the Celebrating the life and times of the Hwy 35 & Lake Street, Pepin, WI 54759 715-442-4100 beloved “Little House” books author. profits from the Museum.

12 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 Winner of the River Lovers’ Photo Contest

Dan Meier of Minneapolis was canoeing and camping on the river in early July 2003, when he took this photo on the Wisconsin side of the river, just downstream of Winona.

end entries for the next contest to Big River by the deadline below. If we Sselect your photo to print in these pages, we’ll send you three free copies of the magazine to share with friends. The contest is open to ama- teurs and professionals, adults and kids. Email a digital JPEG (.jpg) photo file — high-resolution photos only, please! — to [email protected]. Write “PHOTO CONTEST” in the subject line. Or send a print to Photo Editor, Big River, P.O. Box 204, Winona, MN 55987. (We cannot return photographs, though.) Include your name, address, phone number and a short description of the photograph — who or what it is, when and where it was taken, etc. The deadline for the July-August issue is May 21, 2006. The deadline for La Pointe St., Prairie du Chien September-October is July 19. www.prairiefunland.com 608-326-0888

Samples of fish were tested recent- sells products under the Scotchgard Family Fun ly as part of an investigation of PFOS, brand name, but they no longer con- which was manufactured by the 3M tain PFCs, according to the company • Go-Kart Racing Company at its Cottage Grove, Minn., website.) • Miniature Golf plant, on the banks of the Mississippi. In coming months, fish from other • Arcade Fun PFOS is part of a group of artificial parts of the river will be tested to see chemicals used to repel heat, oil, stains, if they have been affected. • Refreshments grease and water. 3M pulled Scotch- Scientists are still studying the tox- • Driving Range gard from the market in 2000 after re- icity of PFOS, which adheres searchers found that the stable and throughout the tissues of living crea- EXPANDING FUN JUST FOR YOU! persistent PFOS was showing up in tures, not just in the fat. the blood of people and animals all Summer Hours: over the world. (3M still makes and 10 a.m. - 10 p.m. (River News continues on page 50)

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 13 This 1848 oil painting,View of Mendota, by Seth Eastman, shows the tiny village of Mendota from the Fort Snelling side of the river.The Sibley House is visible in the painting. (Minnesota Historical Society) Right: The Sibley House today. (Minnesota Historical Society) Go Time Traveling — Visit the 1800s This Summer By Pamela Eyden

rab your bonnet, shoulder to north. All have websites, where that would earn them more money your musket and hitch your you can find up-to-date information than they could make by farming. Gmare to the carriage — this about times and fees. The St. John Mine, a natural karst summer take a trip into the nine- Talk about a long journey — in one cave in the hills above the Mississip- teenth century at some of the many summer, you could traverse a centu- pi, was mined by Native Americans historical sites along the river. Some ry. for many generations and by the offer full-fledged “living history” pro- French, too, before Willis St. John grams that give you a chance to take staked his claim to the place. The on roles, practice crafts and get to St. John Mine mine produced a fortune for St. John know some of the people who influ- Potosi, Wis., (608) 763-2121 between the years of 1828 and 1848, enced the course of events along the ong before the California “Gold when the market for lead declined. river. Other sites leave you free to LRush,” there was a Wisconsin Visitors can tour the cave, squeeze wander, read and imagine historical “Lead Rush.” Hopeful miners into the spaces where miners worked events on your own. swarmed over the hills of southwest- and learn about minerals and geolo- The sites here are listed from south ern Wisconsin, searching for claims gy, as well as history.

14 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 Villa Louis threshers, tractors and dairy equip- Colonel Davenport’s ment. Some of the farm equipment is Prairie du Chien, Wis., (608) 326-2721 quite rare. House ery few Victorians lived in high The site of the home of the first Rock Island, Ill., (309) 786-7336 Vstyle along the river, but if you’re governor of Wisconsin, Nelson olonel Davenport was among the curious about the ones who did, don’t Dewey, sits on the hill overlooking Cfirst wave of U.S. Army soldiers miss Villa Louis on St. Feriole Island, the village. The house that stands to arrive in the Rock Island area in especially now that this grand 1872 there now was built in 1893, 20 years 1816. He left the Army, took up fur mansion has undergone a 10-year, after Dewey’s house burned to the trading, built a fortune and then built multimillion-dollar restoration. ground, but it is on the National Reg- a fine home on the banks of the river. Louis Dousman was born into a ister, and is a handsome, restored This house, which was built using family that got very rich in one gener- house with a view of the bottom- some novel construction techniques, ation by trading furs. He and his wife lands. is just a short walk from the river, Nina set the pace for the social and cultural elite of their time. The exterior of this Italianate man- sion shows restraint, but the interior bursts with color, extravagant pat- terns and intricate decoration. For Victorians, “too much was not enough,” said curator Michael Dou- glas. Ninety percent of the furnish- ings from the remodeling that Nina Dousman did in 1893 have been reac- quired. Many are from the Craftsman movement and were chosen by de- sign consultant William Morris of Chicago. On July 16 and 17, Wisconsin’s on- ly battle in the War of 1812 will be reenacted near the Villa on St. Feriole Island. The festive Carriage Classic competition is held just after Labor Day. If you’re curious about the fur traders from the early 1800s, check The only battle in the War of 1812 to take place in Wisconsin was fought on St. Feriole Island. It’s re-enacted every summer when volunteer redcoats take up arms. (Prairie du Chien out the “Rendezvous” events sched- Chamber/Tourism Council) uled for June 15-18 in Prairie du Chien. It’s like a big campout with more than 600 lodges and teepees, and people dressed in period cos- tumes demonstrating tools, guns, crafts and foods of an earlier time. Learn to tan fur, make baskets and as- semble a teepee. Stonefield Village Cassville, Wis., (608) 725-5210 tonefield Village, set in the low- Slands near the river, is a “museum of agricultural history and village life.” Tour 30 reconstructed buildings typical of a rural community in the late 1800s and early 1900s, including a fully appointed progressive farm- house, period rooms and trade areas, Willard Bunnell was a fur-trader and friend of Dakota Chief Wapasha when he built this white pine as well as displays of antique reapers, house overlooking the river in 1859. (Winona County Historical Society)

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 15 The octagonal cupola atop the Ham House gave Mathias Ham a good view of his ships far below on the where Indians once beached their fur- river. Besides strolling through 23 rooms of antebellum splendor, visitors can investigate Iowa’s oldest laden canoes and traders docked standing building, a cabin that was built in 1833. (Dubuque County Historical Society) keelboats loaded with trade goods, just across the river from the Iowa city that now bears his name. began their frontier life in a stone cot- bedroom door. Next day a trail of Davenport was famously mur- tage in 1840. By 1856 he’d amassed a blood was found leading down to the dered on the night of July 4, 1845, fortune from lead mining and ship- river and eventually to the corpse of a when thieves sneaked into his house ping interests and built 23 rooms onto river pirate. Some people say that an and demanded gold. When Daven- the cottage, including a tower so he eerie light occasionally seen near the port didn’t come up with any, they could keep an eye on river traffic. house is the ghost of this pirate. killed him. Three men were later cap- Both the 1856 mansion and an 1833 tured, tried and hanged. log cabin, Iowa’s oldest building, Visitors can tour the restored which is also located at the site, have Hixon House 1830s-era home and a fur-trading been restored and authentically fur- La Crosse, Wis., (608) 782-1980 post of the era. Arsenal Island is nished. ixon House was built by an ec- dense with historical sites, as well as People who work at the house reg- Hcentric lumber baron, Gideon a working U.S. Army installation and ularly report strange incidents, such Hixon, in 1859. An architecturally and a lock and dam. as opening windows, phantom foot- historically important site, the house steps and odd electrical problems, as contains its original 19th-century fur- well as a sense that a strange pres- nishings, including a “Turkish Nook” Mathias Ham House ence lurks here. Some people at- and items collected during the Dubuque, Iowa, (563) 557-9545 tribute this to an event that happened Hixons’ travels through Europe and athias Ham, an early Dubuque well over 100 years ago: Late one Asia. Mentrepreneur, built his house on night in the 1890s, Sarah Ham was The restored house will be fea- a hill with a commanding view of the awakened by an intruder. She tured in La Crosse’s Sesquicentennial river. Ham, his wife and five children grabbed her pistol and shot at her Celebration August 3 - 6 this summer.

16 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 The Wilder family’s small cabin has been reconstructed a few miles from the small rivertown of Pepin,Wis., and not too far from the village of Plum Creek, both of which figure in the writer’s books.

In the cool of a tent , a Wilder Days volunteer demonstrates sewing on an antique sewing machine. (Jasper Bond) Laura Ingalls Wilder Cabin Pepin, Wis. amed writer Laura Elizabeth In- Fgalls Wilder was born in 1867, in a log cabin near the town that became Pepin, Wis. Her first book, Little House in the Big Woods, is about her childhood years here and the stories her father told her. Today, a replica cabin stands on the Ingalls’ former property. The Pepin Historical Museum houses memorabilia of Laura and other fami- ly members, as well as period items. Laura Ingalls Wilder Days, in Sep- tember, draws people from all over the world to enjoy a day or two in the world Wilder so vividly described in her books.

Two participants cooled off in Lake Pepin after the Laura Ingalls Wilder Days parade on a very hot September day. (Donald Perry)

ing example of Rural (or Steamboat) Bunnell House Gothic architecture. Visitors enter on Homer, Minn. (507) 452-7575 or (507) the lower level and are guided up 454-2723 through three floors of the refur- n 1849, Dakota Chief Wapasha nished house. Igranted permission to his friend, The house has a grand view of the the fur trader Willard Bunnell, to river. Visitors learn about pioneer life The Hixon family lived in and cherished the Hixon House in La Crosse from the time it was built in build a cabin on Dakota land at what along the river back when canoes 1859 until 1962, when the family gave it to the La is now Homer, Minn. A decade later, gave way to steamboats and trails be- Crosse Historical Society. In it you find fabrics and Bunnell built a finer home nearby for came roads. furnishings from the family’s travels to Egypt and his wife and family. It is an outstand- all over the world. (La Crosse Historical Society)

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 17 The Villa Louis, which overlooks the Mississippi River in Prairie du Chien,Wis, was meticulously restored over seven years, with the help of old records and family photographs, such as the one above, which was taken in the grand front hall of the villa. (Wisconsin Historical Society)

LeDuc Historic Estate Sibley House Hastings, Minn., (651) 437-7055 Mendota, Minn., (651) 452-1596 illiam and Mary LeDuc moved hen young Henry Hastings Sib- Wto Minnesota in 1850. William Wley, regional manager of the was a lawyer, book seller, flour miller American Fur Company, began build- and farmer, who also served in the ing his home in 1838, Mendota, one Union Army during the Civil War of the state’s oldest settlements, was and attained the rank of general. Be- just a tiny outpost village on the fron- tween 1862 and 1866 they borrowed tier. Four sturdy limestone buildings the money to build this 15-room remain from this era. Sibley’s trading Gothic Revival house, using plans post eventually became part of a from architect Andrew Jackson bustling territory. Sibley himself be- Downing’s book Cottage Residences. came the state’s first governor. The house is near the Vermillion Riv- Visitors can tour three of the re- er in Hastings, Minn. stored structures, including an 1843 The family was involved in politics fur-company store and the 1840 resi- and many business ventures, includ- dence of Jean-Baptiste Faribault, a ing Minnesota’s first railroad and a trader and hotelier. Well informed national embroidery business started guides tell stories of the fur-trade era by daughters Florence and Alice. and lead visitors through the fully William LeDuc was a good friend of furnished interiors and exhibits. Henry H. Sibley, who built the Sibley House (see below). A persistent rumor about the four- Fort Snelling and-a-half-acre estate claims there is a Minneapolis, Minn., (612) 726-1171 secret passage somewhere on the old your ears — the cannons fire grounds. The house, on Highway 61 Htwice a day at Fort Snelling in in town, just opened to visitors in the summer. 2005. In the early 1800s when Zebulon

18 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 The front hall after restoration was completed shows the love of vivid color that was part of Victorian sensibility. (Wisconsin Historical Society)

More than 130 competitors from all over United States arrive with horses, carriages, costumes and other gear to participate in the Carriage Classic at Villa Louis in September. It’s an elegant display of period costumery and horsemanship.(Prairie du Chien Chamber/Tourism Council)

Pike saw the high bluffs at the conflu- a gristmill and sawmill at St. Anthony ence of the Mississippi and Minneso- Falls, planted hundreds of acres of ta rivers, he knew they’d be a good vegetables, wheat and corn, cut hay site for a fort, which was built in 1825 for livestock, felled trees for their fires under the command of Colonel Josiah and made the first documented Snelling. The Army made roads, built weather recordings in the area. Mean-

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 19 20 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 William and Mary LeDuc were entrepreneurs with a progressive bent on many issues of the day. Their Gothic Revival home near downtown Hastings, Minn., was recently restored. It features a multi- media theater in the first-floor library to teach the history of times gone by. (Dakota County Historical Society) Hawks View Cottages while, they enforced the laws and Oliver Kelley Farm & Lodge policies of the United States. For 30 Elk River, Minn. Deluxe forest cottages high above years it was a diplomatic, cultural liver H. Kelley didn’t know the Mississippi, overlooking historic and military center in what was then Omuch about farming when he Fountain City, Wisconsin the unsettled Northwest. It continued staked a claim in 1850. He became a operations until the end of World War “book farmer,” learning the latest II. farming techniques from agricultural Today this restored stone fortress journals and by corresponding with is the scene of a full living-history other progressive farmers. In his later program, with costumed guides and years Kelley founded the National a variety of tours. With their help, it’s Grange, a fraternal organization of not hard to imagine the year is 1827, farm families that did for farmers and you’ve just arrived on a packet- what the unions were doing for in- boat up the Mississippi River. Take dustrial workers. the roles of soldiers and pioneers, and Visitors to the Kelley Farm can join in the fort’s everyday life. March walk the trails that wind along the in drill formation, scrape a hide, get Mississippi River and experience a tossed in the brig, or make muffins working 1860s farm, make soap, visit and tea. The fort’s activities are all set farmhands and animals, and pick www.hawksview.net to background music of musket fire, heirloom vegetables — the same [email protected] cannons and the shrill call of the fife. kinds of plants the Kelley farm grew over 130 years ago. F CALL US TOLL-FREE: 1-866-293-0803 Pamela Eyden is news and photo editor of Big River. ALSO, ASK ABOUT OUR 4-BEDROOM BLUFFTOP LODGE

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 21 Meet The Mudpuppy

Photos and text by Allen Blake Sheldon

lthough some people say am- A strange creature walks phibians and reptiles are ugly Aor slimy, I have always de- the floor of the the fended them faithfully. However, when it comes to the mudpuppy, I have to admit this is one ugly and Mississippi River slimy critter — really slimy. Just try holding one. Mudpuppies are also called “water dogs,” although they bear little resemblance to either pup- pies or dogs. At one time it was false- ly believed that these animals barked. The common mudpuppy, Necturus maculosus maculosus, is an amphibian whose range extends from southeast Manitoba to southern Quebec, down to southern Missouri and northern Georgia. In the Mississippi River mudpuppies are found from Mis- souri upriver to St. Anthony Falls, which blocks its upstream progress. In the Arkansas River drainage sys- tem in the South, Necturus maculosus

Above: Mudpuppies can swim, but mostly they walk along the bottom. Left: Mudpuppies develop large, bushy, red gills in oxygen-poor water.This one was photographed near Dresbach, Minn.

22 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 maculosus is replaced by the Red Riv- holding their legs against their sides er mudpuppy, Necturus maculosus and swimming with an undulating louisianensis. tail motion, but they usually just walk What is a mudpuppy, anyway? It along the bottom. They forage mostly is a large salamander, averaging 13 to at night, searching for almost any ani- 16 inches long, including its vertically mal that will fit in its mouth — usual- flattened, paddle-like tail. It is, of ly crayfish and other crustaceans, course, the color of mud — brown to aquatic insects and worms. The menu gray to nearly black with darker might also include mollusks, fish, fish spots or blotches, which provides ex- eggs and other amphibians, including cellent protective camouflage. It has juvenile mudpuppies. bushy red gills when it lives in slow- Although they are sometimes ac- moving, warm, oxygen-poor water, cused of eating sportsfish young, and small, compact gills when it lives mudpuppies do not affect fish popu- in well oxygenated fast water, such as lations, and in fact, are a food source at the mouths of some Mississippi for fish. They are also consumed by Mudpuppy eggs hang from the underside of a River tributaries. Its eyes are small, northern water snakes and great blue rock. herons. The common mudpuppy is Breeding season is fall and early winter. During courtship, the male the host for the larva of a swims or crawls around the female freshwater mussel called and eventually deposits sper- matophores, jelly-like blobs, each the salamander mussel, capped with a sperm packet. The fe- Simpsonaias ambigua. male picks them up with her vent or cloacal lips and stores them inside her This is unique, because all cloaca, the chamber for holding other known hosts for wastes or reproductive materials. In mussels are fish. late spring or early summer, the eggs pass through the cloaca and are fertil- ized as they are laid. She nests in a lidless and don’t bulge out. Each foot hollowed-out area underneath a large has four toes. flat rock, occasionally in riprap or un- A mudpuppy embryo will take several years to Unlike other salamanders, mud- derneath a log, with the opening on reach adulthood.This one is from an egg that was accidentally torn during removal from a puppies are neotenic, which means the downstream side, so it won’t fill rock. that mature adults are totally aquatic, with silt. She attaches 18 to 190 eggs retaining their larval characteristics, singly, so they hang from the under- including gills. While larvae of most side of the rock or log. Then she salamander species hatch in the water guards her eggs until they hatch, in and have gills for only a few weeks one to two months, depending on until they develop into adults and water temperature. move onto the land, mudpuppies live Hatchling mudpuppies are about permanently in water and never an inch long but will grow to eight metamorphose into a terrestrial form. inches over the next four to six years Their lungs are used mostly for depth before reaching maturity. Mudpuppy regulation instead of breathing. juveniles or larvae look similar to the Mudpuppies are mainly nocturnal, adults, but have a yellowish stripe but their behavior changes with their along each side of their back. They habitat. Mudpuppies that live in slow, are secretive, hiding in the vegetation murky water with a muddy bottom of shallow water to avoid predators, or lots of vegetation are often active including adult mudpuppies. all day, since they aren’t exposed to predators. Mudpuppies that live in A MUST-HAVE FOR MUSSELS clear streams hide underneath large Along the Upper Mississippi River A juvenile mudpuppy has two yellow stripes flat rocks or logs by day and are ac- and eastward, the common mudpup- along its back. tive at night. py is the host for the larva of a fresh- Mudpuppies use two forms of lo- water mussel called the salamander comotion — they swim quite well, mussel, Simpsonaias ambigua. This is

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 23 JustJust AroundAround thethe BendBend ...... Wisconsin’s GrGreateat River Road Wis. Dept. of Tourism Wis. Wis. Dept. of Tourism Wis. Wis. Dept. of Tourism Wis. Wis. Dept. of Tourism Wis. Wis. Dept. of Tourism Wis. Wis. Dept. of Tourism Wis. Kay Shaw www.wigreatriverroad.org 1•800•658•9424

24 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 You can see the small, compact gills on this mudpuppy living in a fast, clear stream.

unique, because all other known fishing, since mudpuppies are active hosts for mussels are fish. Mussels be- all year. You might also try shining a gin life as larvae, called glochidia, flashlight into the shallows at night. OTAKUYE HDIHUNIPI that cannot swim and are just carried Mudpuppies tend to move into shal- Great Dakota Gathering by the water or sink to the bottom. A lower water at night to feed, and they & Homecoming glochidium has two valves, or halves, are reportedly attracted to lights. On the shores of beautiful that are partly open and capable of Mudpuppies can also be found hid- East Lake Winona ing underneath large, flat rocks that Winona, Minnesota The common mudpuppy are in water one to three feet deep. June 3 & 4, 2006 They hide under rocks in deeper wa- PUBLIC WELCOME is a harmless creature ter too, but it’s just not as handy to check them. Starting each day at Sunrise that is part of the ecology Like all amphibians, mudpuppies EVENTS of the Mississippi River. are very susceptible to water pollu- Cultural & History Tent • Canadian- tion and siltation, and have suffered American Moccasin Tournament • the same kinds of limb deformities Blended Ecumenical Service • clamping on to the gills of a host. The found in frogs in recent years. They Unity Feast • Storytelling • Dancing glochidium of the salamander mussel are listed as threatened in Iowa. Drumming • Singing • Stage clamps onto the gills of the mudpup- The common mudpuppy is a Performance by Annie Humphrey • py. There it forms a cyst and lives as a harmless creature that is part of the Authentic Native American Arts parasite for eight to 12 weeks, while it ecology of the Mississippi River. and Craft Vendors • Featuring the develops. When the cyst breaks, the Don’t let it gross you out. Consider it Flandreau Veterans Dakota Honor little mussel sinks to the bottom and a treat, if you see one. F Guard is on its own. The salamander mussel For Schedule Times and more cannot survive as a species without Allen Blake Sheldon’s photographs ap- the mudpuppy. pear frequently in Big River. The last information call (507) 457-8282 or Your best bet to see a mudpuppy story he wrote was “Northern Water (507) 452-2278 Snake, Cranky and Not-so-good Look- might be to catch one while fishing ing,” September-October 2005. No alcohol, drugs or weapons allowed with live bait, and that includes ice www.dakotahomecoming.org

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 25

KNOW YOUR RIVER

“Poolology” — What Happens Between the Dams?

The river’s natural slope has been converted to a series of steps by the locks and dams. (Army Corps of Engineers) By Reggie McLeod

he locks and dams have trans- dams were not built to control floods. stream to have much affect on the formed the Upper Mississippi During high water lockmasters are re- water level in the upper part of the TRiver into a series of pools, quired to pull all of the dam gates pool. each named for the lock and dam that completely out of the water. As you travel to the middle of the marks its downstream boundary — typical pool, you still see many is- Pool 15 or Pool 5, for instance. For The Stair-Step River lands and backwaters, especially at boaters who may have to wait an The character of each pool changes and below confluences with other hour or two to lock through, the locks from the upstream to the downstream rivers. Otherwise, you are likely to truly do define distinct stretches of end. If you want to see what the river see more open water than at the top the river. of the pool. Most of the pools share many char- During a normal summer, The lower ends of pools, especially acteristics, though each is unique. The when the dam gates are right above locks and dams, are usu- longest pool in our stretch of the river ally wide, open expanses of water is Pool 4, which covers 44 miles from down, you might think of the with few islands and shallow, mucky Red Wing, Minn., to Alma, Wis., in- pools as stair steps, because bottoms. During a normal summer, cluding Lake Pepin. The shortest is the water on the downstream when the dam gates are down, you only a few blocks long, between the might think of the pools as stair steps, Upper St. Anthony Falls and Lower side of the dam is lower than because the water on the downstream St. Anthony Falls locks and dams in the upstream side. side of the dam is lower than the up- Minneapolis. Nearly all the rest are stream side, and the pool is almost between nine and 34 miles long. used to be like, launch a canoe or flat with little current. After the dams Each of the dams was placed kayak into a backwater just below a were built, which raised the lower downstream from a shallow spot on lock and dam. The upper part of most end of the pools, many islands disap- the Main Channel in order to raise the pools has more islands, sloughs and peared under water. High water con- low water level to more than nine feet backwater lakes, because the water ditions destroyed many of the the is- deep over the shallow spot and the level is close to the pre-lock and dam lands that remained. At the same rest of the channel in that pool. The level. The next dam is too far down- (Know Your River continues on page 40)

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 27 Riverman on the Mississippi James Dallas Parks (1907- ) oil on canvas, 1940.

28 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 Navigating the Mississippi in Art The Muscatine Art Center Stages a Different Kind of “Boat Show”

Davenport and Rock Island City Henry Lewis (1819-1904) By Pamela Eyden oil on canvas,1855.

rtists have long been fascinat- Upper Mississippi. when interest waned and he sold it to ed by the river and the boats Henry Lewis, for example, was an a wealthy plantation owner from Ja- Athat float on it. Both are the English cabinetmaker who arrived in va. No one knows where it ended up. subject of a show at the Muscatine St. Louis in 1836. He taught himself to The Muscatine Art Center is Art Center, from May 21 through Au- paint, and set about touring the Up- housed in two buildings — a 1908 gust 28 this summer. Called “Navi- per Mississippi. His images reflect the mansion and a contemporary gallery. gating the Mississippi: Early Modes great pride people were taking in set- The two showcase collections ranging of Transportation on the Mighty Mis- tling the country’s wilderness. Lewis from historic maps, decorative arts sissippi,” the show features paintings, later painted what he called his and oriental carpets to paintings by prints and drawings from the muse- “Great Work,” a 1,000-foot panorama Grant Wood, Georgia O’Keefe, Ma- um’s Great River Collection. In it of the river, painted on a long roll of tisse and Chagall. Admission is free. you’ll find canoes and keelboats, canvas. As it unfolded, the painting steamboats, river rafts, towboats and gave viewers a sense of floating down (All images courtesy of the Muscatine Art Center) more, portrayed by artists who are the river. Lewis toured the U.S. and themselves part of the history of the Europe with his panorama until 1853,

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 29 ISLAND CITY HARBOR Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, closed Mondays P.O. Box 10 • 305 South Ave. Sabula, IA 52070-0010 email:[email protected] website:islandcityharbor.com Phone (563) 687-2825 • Fax (563) 687-2229 Mile 534.7 RDB • Upper Mississippi River We Monitor Marine Channel 16 An excellent place for wave runners, water skiing, fishing, windsurfing on the lakes to the west of the marina.

Marine/Gift Store Slip Rental Full Service Gas Dock Hydraulic Trailer Inside Winter Storage Mechanical Services 30 Ton Travel Lift Boat Sales

30 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 Bloomington, Iowa John Caspar Wild (1804-1846) hand-colored lithograph.

Upper Mississippi River Henry Lewis (1819-1904) oil on canvas,1855.

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 31 The Clinton. Nightloading on the River, Charles D. Robinson (1847-1933), oil painting, 1873.

Belvedere Mansion 1008 Park Avenue Galena, Illinois 61036 Open to the public May thru October 2006 Sunday - Friday: 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. Saturday: 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. kfai.org

32 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 Captain Daniel Dawley John Caspar Wild (1804-1846) oil on canvas.

Mississippi Flatboating John Mackie Falconer (1820-1903) pen and ink on paper, 1842.

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 33 The Barn Restaurant Prairie du Chien,WI

Fine Dining in a Relaxed Atmosphere Drive in...sail in...So come in to enjoy fine dining in a rustic atmosphere (no ties!) surrounded by an- tiques and collectibles inside and spectacular scenery outside. Our fine staff will be on hand to make your dining experience memorable! Public Dining all year round Tuesday - Saturday 5 p.m. to Close Seasonal Sunday Champagne Brunch, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m

For information or reservations call Within walking Meet Muscatine! distance On the Banks of the (608) 326-4941 • Golf Course Mighty Mississippi All major credit cards accepted • Campground BANQUET ROOMS AVAILABLE • Marina 1-800-25PEARL FOR 50 TO 500 GUESTS ➞ Open Tuesday thru Saturday Main St 3 Miles www.meetmuscatine.com 5 p.m. to Closing Americinn The Barn

Orange you It’s time to get out the glad fruit feeders to celebrate the return of color to the landscape! it’s Fly in to Bird-Song and pick from a variety of fruit and seed feeders to lure migratory songbirds to stop for a spell in your yard. spring! Orioles, hummingbirds, bluebirds, buntings and tanagers will thank you with song when RETAIL STORE HOURS: you spring for their needs. Mon. thru Thurs. 9:00-5:00 Fridays 9:00-6:00 Saturdays 9:00-3:00 Sundays 11:00-3:00 1220 East Seventh St. Winona, MN 507-454-6711 ORDER ONLINE ANYTIME! 1-800-820-8530 www.bird-song.com

34 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 The Norton’s Dining Off the Beaten Track By Marc Hequet

onsider it a treasure hunt. er bar, then a restaurant called the Your clues: The place is near Lavender Rose. Sarah remembers CHager City, Wis., a mile and the pithy advice of a friend: “It’s a half off the main road, in a 1968- funky,” warned the friend. “Buy it vintage machine shed across the and unfunk it.” river from Red Wing, Minn. The Lavender Rose closed on a The Norton’s is the name, and its Sunday and The Norton’s opened strategy is city cuisine at prices that the following Friday. “We had four don’t shock people accustomed to days to transform our restaurant in- small-town blue-plate specials. En- trees range from $17 to $24. “We’ve got this crazy The other piece of the strategy is a hip wine selection. You can spend notion that if you keep the $140 for a bottle — the La Spinetta wine affordable, people 2001, an Italian red — but you can will drink more wine.” buy by the glass for the usual $6 or so. The husband and wife owners to something that was our space,” met in a kitchen 10 years ago. Greg recalled Sarah. “It was a rush job.” Norton, onetime bassist for the They painted it in shades of blue Sarah Norton is lead chef at The Norton’s.To encourage local business, the restaurant offers a iconic circa-1980 post-punk Min- to soften the machine-shed am- special discount to diners who live nearby. neapolis band Husker Du, now is a biance. Local artists’ work covers 26-year veteran of the restaurant the walls. business. With Sarah Norton he The Norton's make the sausages ($22) — smoked pork and sausage managed the Staghead restaurant in and smoke the meats in-house. with sauerkraut — with an Alsatian Red Wing until 2003, when they Their menu is distinctive, particu- wine. She’s also proud of her duck bought the former machine shed to larly for an out-on-the-highway confit ($18) — duck legs and thighs open a place of their own. place. Entrees range from salmon to braised in their own fat and then This particular machine shed had rabbit to elk. Sarah recommends an stored for weeks in the restaurant’s been a snowmobile club, then a bik- Alsatian dish, the choucroute garnie cooler.

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 35 Duke Addicks Tells River Tales Duke’s upcoming schedule on board the riverboat Mississippi Explorer Call (563) 586-4444 for reservations. • Sunday, May 14 Wild Eagle Watching on the River Cruise, departs Lansing, Iowa, at 2 p.m. • Sunday, July 23 Black Hawk War Cruises, depart Lansing, Iowa, at 1 and 3:30 p.m. • Saturday & Sunday, September 23 & 24 Don’t Forget Zeb Pike Cruises, depart Prairie du Chien, DUKE ADDICKS Wisconsin, at 2 p.m. STORYTELLER • Or schedule any of Duke’s River Tales presentations on a Chartered Mississippi Explorer Cruise for your group. HONOR THE EAGLES! Watch wild eagles with Duke and listen to his Eagle and Thunderbird Legends and Lore • Ride along with Duke on his regularly scheduled eagle watching van tours at the Minnesota Valley National Wildlife Refuge in Bloomington, Minn., or schedule one of Duke’s tours for your group. (952-858-0740) • Attend or schedule one of Duke’s presentations at the National Eagle Center in Wabasha, Minn., and view both wild and captive eagles there. (651-565-4989) • Attend or schedule one of Duke’s presentations at the Raptor Center at the University of Minnesota in St. Paul and view the captive eagles with him there. (612-624-4745) • Select an eagle-watching location and meet Duke there with your group or make Duke’s presentation part of your community or organization’s eagle-watching events and environmental education programs. Duke also tells Tales about American Indians, Fur Traders, Explorers, Ghosts, and More! For more information about Duke and his wide variety of River Tales presentations, and to view his schedule: www.DukeAddicksStoryteller.com (651) 643-0622 [email protected]

36 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 “That intensifies the flavor and Visit Winona, Minnesota makes the duck really super ten- der,” explained the self-taught chef. “It’s a time-consuming dish, but the end product is really deli- cious.” Both Norton's take a hand in the kitchen, but Sarah is the lead There’s always something new chef. Her yen for Asian ingredi- to discover in Winona. ents includes shiro miso, ferment- UPCOMING EVENTS ed soybean paste that is a funda- MAY 5-7 100-MILE GARAGE SALE mental in Japanese cuisine; kim JUNE 3-4 DAKOTA GATHERING chee, Korean fermented chili pep- JUNE 14-18 STEAMBOAT DAYS pers and vegetables with cabbage; JUNE 30-AUG. 6 GREAT RIVER and of course fish sauce. Tradi- SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL tional European technique finds its place as well in her stocks, de- FIND OUT MORE ABOUT MINNESOTA’S mi-glaces and creme fraiche. HISTORIC ISLAND CITY, AT If you’re looking for wine ex- www.visitwinona.com pertise, see Greg. His list includes Greg Norton takes pride in stocking the CALL 800.657.4972 or 507.452.0735 about 250 labels from a dozen restaurant’s considerable wine cellar with wines from 250 winemakers. for a free Visitors Guide countries. Markups are minimal. “We’ve got this crazy notion that if Journey Through Time.... you keep the wine affordable, peo- sing jazz standards from the 1930s At the Winona County ple will drink more wine.” and 1940s, backed by a pianist and Historical Society On a recent visit, my date bass player. And occasionally you thought the western Australian shi- can take a cooking class at The raz (Plantagenet ‘02, $5.75 per Norton’s. In March it featured glass) was a bit aggressive. A red “Sauces for Pasta and Polenta” that talks back a little, however, with matching wines at $75 per went well with the cheese plate person. ($14) — English cotswold, goat, Dinner is served 5 to 9 p.m. Vermont Amish blue, French Mor- Thursdays through Saturdays, bier and a nice German brie with noon to 8 p.m. Sundays and 5 to 8 mushrooms. It comes with honey, a p.m. Mondays. Lunch is 11:30 a.m. nice touch. The dried white fig to 2 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays mostarda may be too sweet for and Saturdays. Nearby residents UPCOMING EVENT some tastes — but try it with the get 10 percent off on Mondays. The June 10 Chocolate, Shakespeare & cotswold on bread. restaurant is closed Tuesdays and Champagne My date and I shared an entre, Wednesdays. IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE PAST IN THE Reservations are recommended, and it was good — pork tender- REGION’S LARGEST AND FINEST HISTORICAL loin, with mashed potatoes, can- (715) 792-2464. Check the website MUSEUM. ENJOY AWARD-WINNING EX- died apple and broccoli. Of course for directions. HIBITS. RESEARCH WINONA’S COLORFUL it’s hard to make broccoli sing, but If you find it, and if you like it, PAST IN THE MUSEUM’S LIBRARY AND it’s good for you. So eat it. take a card on the way out. You ARCHIVES. VISIT THE MUSEUM SHOP AND Don’t expect a view of the river may need the map on the back to THE “PREVIOUSLY READ” BOOKSTORE. at this river-bottom place—you find your way back. F www.winonahistory.org can’t see it from the restaurant. 507.454.2723 Nevertheless, a screened patio that Marc Hequet is a contributing editor Open Monday - Friday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. seats 40 has a view of two wooded for Big River. His last feature story Open Weekends noon - 4 p.m. acres and vegetable and flower gar- was, “Digging Ancient River Histo- ry,” July-August 2005. dens. And if you can’t boat in, you can fly in. The Red Wing airport is Photos by Brooks Peterson. across the road. Once a month, Twin Cities vo- Visit Winona and the Winona County calist Christine Rosholt drops by to Historical Society are located at 160 Johnson St., Winona, MN 55987

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 37 38 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 fter supper, Faye and the young ladies stayed Ain the shack, visiting like old friends, while Joey and I walked down to the dock to check the canoes. We stood on the end of the dock, listen- ing and watching, as a seemingly endless string of blackbirds flew from the fields to their roost in the swamp. A fish rose just high enough to dimple the surface of the water. A hen mallard quacked loudly in the wild rice beds as the drakes softly chortled their feeding call. Finally, night drew its dark curtain over the swamp. I turned and walked up the bank to the shack. “Let’s go for a walk in the dark,” Faye suggest- ed, and off we went, following the dirt roads that crisscross the thirty acres of woods in back of the shack. Now night is dark no matter where you are, but you ain’t seen dark ‘til you’ve been in the swamp on a rainy night. We trudged along the dirt roads taking half steps instead of full strides on the uneven terrain, bumping and jostling one another liked a bunch of drunken sailors. No lights was the rule tonight. What fun is walking in the dark if you use a light? At one point we smelled a skunk. “God, I hope Joey don’t get ahold of that Back to the Backwaters skunk,” Faye said. “Oh yeah, we’ve had enough skunk-versus-dog episodes already to last me a By Reggie McLeod lifetime.” We found our way to the ash-tree landing on Tales of a River Rat mentary, which is now Big Lake. After walking to the end of the dock, we stood still. The night was almost dead quiet. Just a Kenny Salwey, Voyageur Press, St. Paul, owned by the Discovery whisper of a breeze drifted across Big Lake from 2005, 256 pages. Channel (see “Big Time for the Backwaters,” Big the west. A great horned owl softly hooted from hether Kenny Salwey is the River January-February the top of a giant swamp white oak. We could al- last river rat, as he claimed 2005). All this success has most feel the shiver of fear run through the little Win his first book, or a lonely sent Salwey to film festi- night critters, who knew only too well that the swamp hermit who speaks to thou- vals and to tell his stories silent wings of death would claim one of them sands of people a year, as this book’s to bigger groups farther before morning. We turned and headed back to- lengthy introduction claims, is open from his home in Buffalo ward the shack, laughing and talking like a group to discussion. He is clearly, however, County, Wis. Somewhere of schoolkids at recess. a very talented storyteller, whether amidst all of this he From “Those Swamps You Call Home” he’s telling a story about a muskrat, a found time to set down a dog or a one-room schoolhouse in a few more stories, poems state of skunk-cabbage-induced and a cookie recipe in Tales of a River maze of water, mud and islands. This chaos. He hooks you early on and Rat. swamp is a rare remnant of what pulls you gently to the end of the sto- These tales range further than the most of the Upper Mississippi River ry, like he might coax a big trout from first book, examining human nature was like before the locks and dams under a log. as well as nature nature. Many of the were built. And Salwey is also a rem- Salwey’s first book, The Last River stories illustrate the value of gentle nant of a way of life that was proba- Rat (which was cowritten with J. Scott patience, whether pursuing a trout, bly not that rare 60 or 70 years ago. Bestul in 2001) focused on the chang- learning to appreciate other people or I should mention that Salwey is an ing seasons in the Whitman Backwa- figuring out how to live with a too- old friend of Big River’s. Back when ters where Kenny has trapped for clever dog. Big River was a newsletter, he wrote decades. It described the skills he Of course many of the stories un- an almanac column for five years. His used to eke a livelihood from the fold in Salwey’s beloved Whitman stories still appear on these pages swamps and the insights he gained Swamp, complete with the squirrels, from time to time, including two that from observing and pondering the woodpeckers and waterfowl that he are in the new book. I enjoyed read- “circle of life.” so keenly observes and describes. His ing them again. F That book inspired a BBC docu- stories also give a good feel for that

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 39 (Know Your River continued from page 27)

time, silt trapped behind the dams Lower Pool 8 filled in many of the backwater chan- nels. Drawdowns, island building and Spillways backwater dredging are all being used

to restore some of the natural habitat Dike in the lower ends of the pools. Visualize the flood-stage river with all the dam gates open and the water flowing freely. This creates a slope to the water surface that is more or less Upper Pool 9 (Reno Bottoms) straight from one point of the river to Lock & another, regardless of the locks and Dam 8 dams. Now think of the summertime river with all the dam gates lowered into the river, creating a series of flat

Out there in the middle of the river you can look upstream at a wide-open expanse of river framed by towering bluffs and clouds.Turn around and The lower end of Pool 8 is a large, shallow expanse of open water.The upper part of Pool 9 is you’re looking into a verdant a complicated maze of backwaters. (Wisconsin jungle of backwaters. Department of Natural Resources) the water, water flows through the lakes with more normal water levels spillways, too. Most spillways are a on the upper end of the pools and low, concrete covered section of the deeper than normal levels on the low- dike. A few dikes have no open spill- er end — the stairstep river. During a way or have, instead, a large pipe or drawdown, dam operators raise the pipes to let water through the dike in- gates just enough to lower the water to the backwaters. Some have spill- level on the lower end of the pool by ways and pipes. a foot or two, with little effect at the These dikes provide another way upper end of the pool. This exposes to explore the backwaters. You’ll usu- more shoreline and some of the sand- ally find a small parking lot near the bars and former islands long enough spot where the dike ties into higher to get plants like grasses, cattails and arrowroots growing. Those plants Whitman Bottoms and the provide food for waterfowl and cover for fish and other animals, thus Reno Bottoms are some of restoring a bit of the natural produc- the best places to paddle tivity that was lost. Those plants also protect the shoreline and shallow ar- and see a remnant of the eas from wave erosion. Without that river that used to be. occasional drying, many plants disap- pear from the lower pools. ground. You can judge the quality of the fishing by counting the cars in Dikes and Spillways these lots, because most of the cars Most dams are linked to higher belong to anglers fishing below the ground by a long dike — sometimes spillways. These days you’ll also find more than a mile long. Each dike usu- bike racks on some of the cars, be- ally has one or more spillways, which cause more people seem to be discov- allow more water to flow out of the ering the joys of dike biking or hik- pool during high water. During low ing. Out there in the middle of the water, when the dam gates are all in (Know Your River continues on page 59)

40 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 TREASURE ON THE MISSISSIPPI Wisconsin The Cassville Car Ferry The Fun Way to Cross the Mississippi! June 3rd Car Ferry Appreciation Day

Automotive and Marine Supplies Cassville bp Amoco-Piccadily 316 Deniston Street Cassville, Wisconsin 608 / 725-5181 Specializing in outdoor & historic weddings amid the Mississippi River bluff country in Cassville, Wis. Food - Sodas - Ice - Diesel (608) 725-5022 [email protected] www.outdoorandhistoricweddings.com 2 blocks from the Mississippi River

River View Bed & Breakfast Great River Road Stop & Go 117 W. Front St. 704 E.Amelia St. Cassville, WI 53806 Cassville,WI 53806 608-725-5895 www.riverviewbb.com Russel Nelson, owner Visit our unique one of a kind craft and gift shop. bait • food • fuel • tourism information Across the street from the car ferry

Cassville Tourism, P.O. Box 576, Cassville, WI 53806 1-877-891-8298 [email protected] www.cassville.org

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 41 Discover McGregor-Marquette, Iowa McGREGOR – MARQUETTE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

146 Main Street Toll-free 800-896-0910 P.O. Box 105 Phone 563-873-2186 McGregor, Iowa 52157 Fax 563-873-2847

Email: [email protected] Website:www.mcgreg-marq.org

563-873-2980 888-568-2798

Games, puppets, books and laminated guides to teach your children about Nature and their place in it. 14059 Spook Cave Road. McGregor, IA 52157 www.ottersideofnature.com

EAGLES Don’t Miss The LANDING Mississippi! Bed & Breakfast AMERICAN and Winery HOUSE INN 563-873-2509 Established 1854 82 & 127 North St. • Marquette, IA Each luxurious suite offers a view of the river. Free Wine Tasting 10-5 Daily Near Marinas, Restaurants & Antique Shopping. MARQUETTE MAID WINES 563-873-3364 On the Mississippi River 116 Main St., Box 134, McGregor, IA www.halvorson.org/eagleslanding Visit our website at www.americanhouseinn.com

Magazine Available at McGregor Pharmacy Paper Moon Books Effigy Mounds National Monument McGregor Marina

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING AT www.mcgreg-marq.org McGregor Street photo by Molly McGuire

42 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 SmallSmall RiverRiver TownTown withwith EndlessEndless TreasuresTreasures

Home of the Famous Mississippi Crocorat Hours: Mon. - Thurs. 6 a.m. - 9 p.m. Fri. & Sat. 6 a.m. - 10 p.m Sunday 8 a.m. - 6 p.m. (563) 873-9667

McGregor Marina Full service gas dock & rentals McGregor’s Beer & Brat Garden Family Restaurant Chicken, Fish, Salad, Beer & Brats Large deck overlooking the Mississippi Riverfront & Main, McGregor, Iowa (800) 848-2413 (563) 873-9613 McGregor Street photo by Molly McGuire SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING AT www.mcgreg-marq.org

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 43 River’sRiver’sEDGE Serving Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Great View & Food • Fun! Docking Available Featuring: wrought-iron Open 6 AM – 2AM Mon-Sat; 7AM – 2AM, Sun. pieces, garden art, 10 South Front Street Lansing, IA • 563-538-4497 cabin decor, wall hangings and patio fireplaces. C USTOM ORDERS WELCOME. Wed – Sat 12-5; Sun 12-3; or by appointment 80 South 2nd Street • Lansing, IA 52151 (563) 538-9285 • www.bigriverforge.com Enjoy your visit to Lansing! We carry a wide selection of gift items – Two floors of one-of-a- Visit our 2nd Floor Antiques! kind gifts, plus flowers Much More than Just Hardware & plants, Red Wing 238 Main Street Lansing, IA 563.538.4431 crocks and much, much more. 563-538-4326 417 Main, Lansing, IA (3 short blocks from the Mississippi) HOURS: M-F 9-5; Sat 9-4; Sun 10-3

SEE WHAT’S NEW AT ©2004 Blackhawk Bridge photo by Laura Siitari c/o RiverRoad Gallery www.lansingiowa.com

44 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 RED GERANIUM Gifts & Floral Located in the G. Kerndt Bros. historic grain elevator building right on the Mississippi! 60 South Front St. Lansing, IA FREE local floral delivery. 563-538-3943 Mon – Fri 10 a.m.– 5 p.m. ©All rights reserved. All photos by RiverRoad Gallery.

1381 NORTH SECOND ST. (HWY 26) LANSING, IOWA 52151 608-386-9721; AFTER 6PM 563-538-4091 [email protected]

SEE WHAT’S NEW AT www.lansingiowa.com

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 45 Prairie du Chien

Historic Community in Southwestern Wisconsin on the Mighty Mississippi River

"THE LANDING" Wyalusing, Wisconsin Rent a quaint cottage along the Mississippi River

Year-Round Cottage for Rent All rooms feature Beautiful Main Channel view queen or king size beds 1 block to sandy beach cable TV & data ports Enjoy the indoor pool & Minutes to boat launch whirlpool 3 season enclosed porch overlooking river Newly remodeled & completely furnished Free Continental Breakfast New stove, refrigerator (ice maker), microwave, Wireless Highspeed Internet VCR/DVD/stereo Monthly, Weekly, Weekend Rates Hwys 18 & 35 South Prairie du Chien . WI 53821 www.thelandingcottage.com 608-326-7799 www.windsorplaceinn.com [email protected] • (608) 444-3974 Prairie du Chien from Pikes Peak photo by Eric Frydenlund

Smarty Pants is a neighborhood store with a keen eye for the coolest toys and gifts around, located in historic downtown Prairie du Chien. Featuring a great mix of unique and classic toys, games and gifts for kids of all ages. 104 East Blackhawk Ave., Prairie du Chien, WI 53821 Phone: 608-326-8899 www.prairieduchien.org

46 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 Historic Downtown Winona, Minnesota

Pieces of the Past Walk through our door and enjoy the colors, sounds, aromas, tastes, and textures of the season. Furniture Home & Garden Décor Gifts & More Corner of 2nd & Lafayette Streets Historic Downtown Winona, MN (507) 452-3722 Mon. 12 - 5:30 p.m. Tues. - Fri. 9:30 a.m. - 6:30 p.m. Sat. 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Sun. 11:30 a.m. - 4 p.m.

Gregory’s Gifts & Greetings 101 East Third Street Winona , MN (507) 454-3160

HOURS: M - F 9 - 5; Sat 9 - 5; Sun. 11- 4

Nola’s Flowers & Gifts New freshest flower shop with unique style with an artistic flair

DELIVERING IN WINONA AREA Featuring homemade desserts, Chicago Chocolates! sandwiches, soups and salads in a cozy atmosphere 159 Main Steet Hours: Sunday 9:30 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. (507) 454-3500

www.nolasflowers.com Monday - Saturday 7 a.m. - 7 p.m. 48 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 ALMA WISCONSIN On the Great River Road/National Scenic Byway www.almawisconsin.com Along the banks of the Mississippi River Step into Living H Alma..a great Mississippi River destination! istory Snoop around a Small Vintage River Town for fun! Downtown Courtesy Dock Located just below Lock/Dam #4 Downtown Alma Come off the river and stroll, stretch or shop downtown Alma Marina Harbor mile marker #754 Full service/repairs/docks/public launching Mossy Hollow Walking Trails Winding trails of a lush ravine with some unusual flora and scenic views. A birder & explorer paradise! Off Hwy. 35 south end of Downtown Buena Vista Walking Trails Enter on 2nd Street – watch for entrance sign. Hike or drive up to Buena Vista Park 500 ft. above Alma – View miles of the Mississippi River valley. Alma Leather 12 Historic Step Streets Connecting Main St. & 2nd St. peek at secret backyard Individually Custom-Made Leather Handbags, gardens and scenic river views Backpacks, Accessories and Clothing Lock & Dam #4-Downtown Watch barges and other river craft lock through September 3 – All Day Sunday (608) 685-4775 [email protected] Art and Music Festival 121 North Main St., Alma, WI 54610 Under the trees along the banks of the Mississippi River Alma Marina & Beach Harbor Recreation Area Craft/Art/Food vendors – watch the artisans at work and non-stop music 1 mile North of Downtown Alma off Hwy. 35 on Harbor Road For updated information and upcoming events: www.almawisconsin.com [email protected] P.O. Box 202 Alma, WI 54601 608-685-4442 or 608-685-3330

Open Daily 10:00 - 5:00

Water Lily Gifts Unique Gifts for Special People 111 North Main Alma, WI 608-685-4911 (River News continued from page 13) stitutionality of using dogs to sniff around tents and canoes without a New Amenities warrant, but D.A. Calkins, assistant Savanna, Ill. — The city will soon district attorney, pointed out that build a new boat ramp and courtesy both the Wisconsin and U.S. Supreme docks for visitors, using nearly Courts have upheld the method as $83,000 in funds from an Illinois state constitutional. grant. The state granted another The DNR and the sheriff agreed $23,000 to the city to write a planning that alcohol is a much bigger prob- grant to develop an action plan to im- prove its sanitary sewer system. People can be cited for Celebrating Bridges underage drinking or for Rock Island, Ill. — A famous railroad violating the ban on glass Long’s Garden, Inc. offers a unique out- bridge in Rock Island will be fêted in containers, but there is no door shopping experience. Nowhere September, although it no longer ex- else can you leisurely wander among the ists. When it opened in 1856, the law against drunk canoeing. inspiring beauty of our mature display bridge stretched from Davenport to gardens featuring over 100 varieties of Rock Island and was the first to span lem. People can be cited for underage native ornamental grasses mingled with conifers, trees, shrubs and perennials. the Mississippi River. It burned down drinking or for violating the ban on We also carry bird feeders, bird baths, when a steamboat crashed into it two glass containers, but there is no law fountains and metal art to help beautify weeks later, but it was rebuilt. The against drunk canoeing. your garden. And our gift certificates bridge is credited with easing ship- Law enforcement officers on the make a wonderful present for special ping problems and giving a boost to river beat will be able to talk to each people on your shopping list. rail transportation. other more clearly, now that Sauk Come experience a day of relaxation Plans for the celebration include County approved the building of a in a park-like atmosphere at creating a “ghost bridge” by shining 250-foot communications tower with- Long’s Garden! light off sprays of water. in sight of the Lower Wisconsin River. Meanwhile, the Centennial Bridge The decision was made over the ob- Commission Building, a prominent jections of the Lower Wisconsin riverside landmark near another Riverway Board, which had suggest- bridge just downriver, will become a ed other sites that would be less in- new visitor center, thanks to a $43,342 trusive. The tower will be part of a Preserve America grant. The building system of nine radio towers in the will feature interpretive displays county, where hilly terrain makes ra- about the city and river transporta- dio and pager communication diffi- tion. The Centennial Bridge opened cult among sheriff’s deputies, village as a toll bridge in 1940, the year of police, firefighters and ambulance MINNESOTA FOSSILS AND Rock Island’s Centennial celebration. crews. FOSSILIFEROUS ROCKS River Busts Birding Fests Muscoda, Wis. — Last Labor Day Lake City, Minn., and Onalaska, • How and where to find fossils. weekend, the Sauk County Sheriff’s Wis. — Two Mississippi River birding • What their names are and Department and the Wisconsin De- festivals are set to coincide with the what they mean. partment of Natural Resources (DNR) spring bird migration in May. worked together to arrest 14 people The annual Great River Birding for use or possession of marijuana and Nature Festival will take place on 218 pages, 671 fossils shown and LSD on the Lower Wisconsin the weekend of May 12, 13 and 14 in River. Two drug-sniffing dogs were many towns on both sides of the riv- instrumental in the arrests. Since the er, from Bay City, Wis., to Winona, $30 POST PAID (CASH OR CHECK) dogs proved more effective on river Minn. Participants will have all kinds sandbars and shorelines than local of opportunities to get out into the law enforcement officials are on the bluffs, fields and backwaters to see highway, the program will continue birds. Some of the options: take a Robert E. Sloan this summer. guided walking tour up Mossy Hol- 39072 Karen Court At a February meeting of the Low- low; ride a motorboat down Indian Winona MN 55987 er Wisconsin State Riverway Board, Slough; trek out to author/naturalist there was some discussion of the con- Kenny Salwey’s cabin; or ride a mini-

50 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 train through Tiffany Bottoms. A vari- times. Corporations and the Minneso- ety of speakers and performances are ta National Guard are the main users planned, along with “early bird” of the airport. 3M has pledged $1 mil- breakfasts and an auction. lion toward the project, the Federal A week later and a few miles Aviation Administration would come downriver, the 2006 Mississippi Fly- up with $21 million, and the rest way Birding Festival on May 19, 20 would come from the state and from and 21 will be headquartered at the bonds. OmniCenter in Onalaska, Wis. Partic- Opponents say the proposed ipants can get out to where the birds sheet-metal wall, which would stand are by foot, canoe, kayak or motor- 19 to 22 feet higher than the average boat with local guides. There’s a river water level, is ugly and would steamboat cruise on the river, a mini- block access to and views of the river. train ride through Tiffany Bottoms, a They point out that dredging the trip to Wyalusing State Park in Prairie riverbank would release long buried du Chien and talks on topics ranging contaminants. Some also argue that from owls and birdfeeders to the Jo- putting more infrastructure into the cotoco Birdathon in Ecuador. The floodplain and trying to keep the riv- theme this year is Landscaping for er is out-dated thinking. Birds and Wildlife. Neighbors who oppose the plan al- so fear expansion of air traffic to the Twilight Sold airport, increasing noise and air pol- LeClaire, Iowa — The riverboat Twi- lution. light will continue making three Without the mayor’s support, round trips a week from LeClaire to planners will have to resolve environ- Dubuque, Iowa, this summer. Long- mental and scenic concerns, and re- time owner Dennis Trone sold the turn to the city council. boat this winter to employees Kevin and Carrie Stier. Carrie has been sell- River Classroom ing boat tickets since the 1980s. Kevin Winona, Minn. — Winona State Uni- piloted the Twilight on its original up- versity (WSU) students can spend river trip from Louisiana in 1987. time on the river this summer and Guests on the 96-mile Twilight still earn a few credits through the cruise to Dubuque enjoy entertain- new “University on the River” pro- ment, food and historic vignettes; and gram. The four-week sessions cover spend the night in the city before re- environmental policy, statistics and turning to LeClaire. biometrics; and English and Outdoor Education and Interpretive Services. Floodplain Airfield Both sessions will take students out St. Paul — A proposal to spend $42 on the river on the university’s newly million on a floodwall to protect an acquired houseboat. airport in the city’s floodplain met Project coordinator Drake Hokan- with fierce and persistent opposition son, WSU professor of mass commu- in early April, as the city planning nications, said students would spend commission approved it and sent it three weeks in the classroom and one on to the city council, while opposing week on the houseboat. It won’t be all groups filed an appeal to stop the work on the boat, though. Students project and Saint Paul Mayor Chris will also learn to play volleyball on Coleman said he would not approve sandbars and paddle through the the current plan. backwaters. F The project would build a 1.7-mile system of levees, dikes and a perma- nent floodwall around the airport, which has been closed by floods three Visit the Big River Home page times in the last 15 years. It would al- (www.big-river.com) for links to so widen the river by excavating soil information about stories marked along the riverbank to allow the same with the mouse. volume of water to pass during flood

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 51 Come and Join in having some wave jumping FUN!!!

Explore the Mississippi River

For more information, contact Leon Genther (563) 505-8787 [email protected] Amazing view * fully furnished * RANCH TOURS by RESERVATION Birdwatchers * X - Country Ski * Horse trails * Bison & Wild Boar Meat for sale 15 minutes to La Crosse/Winona * Buffalo Collectibles & Gift Packages Advertiser Index * Corporate Retreats / Events

Alma, Wis...... 49 Mississippi Canoe Challenge ...... 40 American Boating Centers ...... 2 Mississippi Explorer Cruises ...... 1 American House Inn ...... 42 Mississippi Flyway Birding Festival .59 Barn Restaurant,The ...... 34 Muscatine Convention & Visitor Bureau Also (507) 896-2345 Belvedere Mansion ...... 32 ...... 34 PRIMITIVE CAMPING Money Creek Buffalo Ranch Beno’s Deli ...... 47 National Mississippi River Museum & ON MONEY CREEK 32488 CODY DRIVE * HOUSTON, MN 56943 HORSES ARE WELCOME Aquarium ...... 9 S Best Western Quiet House & Suites 62 OST Mike Fogel, Valerie Shannon & R H YOU Bird Song ...... 34 Naturally Guttenberg ...... 58 WWW.CODYSMERCANTILE.COM CODY THE BUFFALO Blooming Grounds Coffee House . . .47 Nola’s Flowers ...... 47 Blue Heron Coffeehouse ...... 8 Northern Breezes Sailing School . . .54 Bluff Country Co-op ...... 10 Norton’s Restaurant, The ...... 6 BNOX Gold & Iron ...... 13 Oar d’oeuvre Restaurant ...... 21 Braschler’s Bakery & Coffee Shop . . .6 Ole Miss Marina ...... 6 Cassville, Wis...... 41 Onalaska Bike Trail ...... 25 Chestnut Mountain Resort ...... 1 Otakuye Hdihunipi ...... 25 Deer Tracks Log Cabin Community .61 Otter Side of Nature, The ...... 42 Setzer Architects Duke Addicks Storyteller ...... 36 Paper Moon Bookstore and More . .43 commercial • residential Eagles Landing B&B and Winery . . .42 Pepin Valley Realtors ...... 58 licensed in Minnesota and Wisconsin Edina Realty ...... 30 Pepper Sprout ...... 58 2000 W. Main St., Red Wing, MN 55066 Fillmore Dinner ...... 20 Piccadilly Gallery ...... 54 651-385-2218; e-mail: [email protected] Pickle Factory ...... 11 Fountain City, Wis...... 48 website: www.setzerarchitects.com Franciscan Spirituality Center . . . . .30 Pieces of the Past ...... 47 Fulton,Ill...... 4 Pocket City Pub ...... 42 Steven Setzer, AIA Galena Cellars ...... 30 Prairie du Chien, Wis...... 46 Great River Cafe ...... 12 Prairie Funland ...... 13 Great River Harbor ...... 10 Pretty Things on Third ...... 47 Great River Shakespeare Festival . . .19 Red Wing Pottery & Smokey Row Cafe Gregory’s Gifts & Greetings ...... 47 ...... 59 Grumpsters Log Cabin Getaway . . .43 River Huis Traders Antiques ...... 51 Hansen’s Harbor ...... 33 River Log House ...... 59 Hawks View Cottages ...... 21 Riverview Restaurant ...... 43 International Conference on Rivers & Riverfront Centre ...... 6 Civilization ...... 20 Riverwise ...... 57 Island City Harbor ...... 30 Robert J. Hurt Landscape Photographer John Deere Pavilion ...... 36 ...... 57 Julia Belle Swain ...... 0 Savanna, Ill...... 57 KFAI ...... 32 Signatures Restaurant ...... 18 Lake City Tourism ...... 38 Smith Brothers Landing ...... 11 Lansing Fish Days ...... 20 Spook Cave & Campground ...... 43 Lansing, Iowa ...... 44 Stoney Creek Inn ...... 61 Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum . . . . .12 Touch of Class Interiors ...... 4 Long’s Garden, Inc...... 50 Twisted Chicken, The ...... 54 Magnolias ...... 47 Villa Louis & Stonefield Village . . . . .4 McGregor Coffee Roasters ...... 43 Waterway Fine Arts Publishing . . . .26 McGregor Lodging ...... 42 Waterways Journal ...... 54 McGregor Marina, Beer & Brat Garden Wild Rose Timberworks ...... 61 ...... 43 Willows, The ...... 38 McGregor-Marquette Chamber . . . .42 Winona County Historical Society/ Minnesota Fossil and Fossiliferous Visit Winona ...... 37 Rocks ...... 50 Wisconsin Great River Road ...... 24 The Twisted Chicken “Beyond The Ordinary” ❁ Fresh Fish Flown In ❁ Organic & Locally Grown Produce ❁ Locally Grass-Fed Lamb ❁ Dry-Aged Beef ❁ Berkshire Pork Pasture-Raised

Eclectic Dining Lunch & Dinner Art Gallery Coffee Bar

Spring Hours: LUNCH 11 to 2 p.m. Wednesday – Saturday DINNER 5 to 9 p.m. Experience the beauty of the Upper Mississippi River Valley. Wednesday & Thursday See it in our wildlife and fine art prints! 5 to10 p.m. Friday & Saturday •Local Artists •River Art BRUNCH (in June) 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. •We Ship •Gift Ideas closed Monday & Tuesday closed Sunday in May We offer a wide selection of well-known artists, custom framing for your prints, 212 Main Street, McGregor, Iowa 52157 unique gifts and hand-forged damascus knives. (563) 873-1515 [email protected] www.thetwistedchicken.com We are on Highway 61, 7 miles north of Winona. At mile marker 37. Offering An Alternative Dining Experience! 1-800-501-4278 www.piccadillygallery.com

We’ve got the river covered

From recreational boating to commercial river transportation. The Waterways Journal Inc. family of publications delivers news important to you. Call (314) 241-7354 for more information.

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54 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 Big River Calendar

Special Events

Weekends: Mississippi River Explorer Cruises, 13 Guided Bird Walk, 8 a.m., Effigy Mounds Galena, Ill., res. required, (800) 397-1320. National Monument, Marquette, Iowa, June (563) 873-3491. 2-3Swim with Dave the Wave,“Midwest Am- May phicars,”Sabula, Iowa. 13 & 20 Songbird field trips, 9 a.m., Gale- Through 21 Exhibit, Seth Eastman, Artist on na, Ill., res., (815) 777-0621. 2-4Minnesota Messabout, Lake Pepin at Hok- the Frontier, Minnesota History Center, Si-La Park, Lake City, Minn. 345 Kellogg Boulevard West, St. Paul. 13 International Migratory Bird Day. 2-4 & 9-11 Alexis Bailly Vineyard open 5-7100-Mile Garage Sale, loop from Winona 13-15 Iowa free camping, (515) 281-5918. house, wine tasting & tours, Hastings, to Red Wing, Minn., and Bay City to Alma, 12-21 National River Cleanup Week, (865) Minn., (651) 437-1413. Wis., (507) 452-0735. 558-3595. 3 National Trails Day. 5-7Free Camping, Pikes Peak State Park, 19-21 Mississippi Flyway Birding Festival, La 3 Bluff planting, 8:30 a.m., overlook near (563) 873-2341. Crosse and Onalaska,Wis., reg. by May 12, Cherokee Ave. & Ohio St., St Paul, pre-reg, 6 Scenic Byway Celebration, between Dex- (866) 895-9233. (651) 665-9500 ext. 11. ter and La Crescent, Minn., (800) 428- 19-21 Dubuquefest, (563) 584-9565. 3-4Civil War re-enactments, LeDuc Historic 2030. 19-21 Fresh Art Studio & Gallery Tour, 10 Estate, Hastings, Minn., (651) 437-7055. 6 Elizabeth (Ill.) Fort Days, 10 a.m. - 4 p.m, a.m. - 5 p.m., Pepin, Maiden Rock & 3-4Free fishing,Wisconsin & Iowa Waters. (815) 858-2028. Stockholm,Wis., (715) 285-5692. 3-4Otakuye Hdihunipi, Dakota gathering, 6 Raptor Release, Raptor Center, U of Minn., 20 Memorial celebration for Cody the Buffa- Lake Park,Winona, Minn., (507) 452- St. Paul, (612) 624-4745. lo, 2 p.m. on, Money Creek Buffalo Ranch, 0735. 6 Bird Walk, 7:30 a.m., La Riviere Park, Houston, Minn., (507) 896-2345. 3 &17 Birding field trip, 9 -11:30 a.m., Gale- Prairie du Chien,Wis., (608) 326-2718. 20 Minnesota City Day, (507) 689-4103. na, Ill., (815) 777-0621. 6-7Living Green Expo, 10 a.m. - 5 p.m., State 20-21 River Clean-Up, Galena, Ill., (815) 858- 4 Celebrate Lake Pepin, events/cleanup, 11 Fairgrounds, St. Paul. 9100. a.m - 2 p.m., Hok-Si-La Park, Lake City, 7 Bicycle tour of Arsenal Island, 1 p.m., Rock 25-28 Sunfish Days, Onalaska,Wis., (608) Minn. Island, Ill., res., (309) 794-5338. 781-9566. 4 Visitor appreciation day, Stonefield His- 7 Mississippi Gorge forest restoration, 8:30 26 Jammin’ Below the Dam, 6 p.m., Bellevue, toric Site & Nelson Dewey State Park, a.m., Minneapolis, reg., (651) 665-9500. Iowa. Cassville,Wis., (608) 725-5210. 11 Frog walk, 8 p.m., Buehler Preserve, Gale- 27 Blues Bash,Trempealeau Hotel,Trem- 4 Cruisin’ Cassville Days, Riverside Park, na, Ill., (815) 858-9100. pealeau,Wis., (608) 534-6898. Cassville,Wis., (608) 725-5855. 11 Millard Fillmore Dinner, 5 p.m.; River Work 27-28 Living History Weekend, Apple River 4 Minnesota and Wisconsin State Parks Exhibit, 2 p.m., RiverCentre, St.Paul, (651) Fort State Historic Site, Elizabeth, Ill., Open House. 293-6867. (815) 858-2028. 9-11 America’s River, Dubuque, Iowa, (800) 12-14 Great River Birding and Nature Festi- 27-29 Arts & crafts and flea market, McGre- 798-8844. val,Wisconsin and Minnesota from Red gor and Marquette, Iowa, (563) 873-3521. 10 Bay City (Wis.) Fest. Wing to Winona. 10 Guided bird walk, 8 a.m., Effigy Mounds 13 Birding at Schaar’s Bluff, Hastings, Minn., National Monument, Harpers Ferry, Iowa. 9:30 a.m., (952) 891-7000. 13 Reggae Fest,Trempealeau Hotel,Trem- Calendar Events pealeau,Wis., (608) 534-6898. Please send your July-August river events to us by May 22. 13 Natural Area Guardians Bluebird Trail Send to Big River, PO Box 204, Winona, MN 55987 Walk, 9 a.m., Galena, Ill., (815) 777-3330. or email to editors@ big-river.com or fill out the form on our website at www.big-river.com/br.calendar.

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 55 (June events continued) 19-20 Stone Arch Bridge Festival of the Arts, Minneapolis, (888) 676-6757. 14 St. Anthony Heritage Trail and Mill Ruins Meetings and Park, Friends of the Mississippi River 22 Great Mississippi Riverboat Cleanup, Conferences tour, 6 - 8 p.m., (651) 222-2193. aboard the Harriet Bishop,Twin Cities, (651) 259-5620. May 14-19 Steamboat Days,Winona, Minn. 5-9 National River Rally, 9 a.m. - 5 p.m., 22-25 Dubuque Catfish Festival, Dubuque, 15-18 Prairie Villa Rendezvous, St. Feriole Is- Mount Washington Hotel & Resort, Bret- Iowa, (563) 583-8535. land, Prairie du Chien,Wis., (608) 822- ton Woods, NH(503) 241-3506. 6916 or (800) 732-1673. 23-25 WaterSki Days, Lake City, Minn. 8 Hearing, Mississippi River Critical Area 11 Hike the woodlands, 1 p.m., E. B. Lyons 23-25 Balloons in June, Clinton, Iowa, (563) Plan draft, 4:30 p.m., City Hall, Min- Nature Center, Mines of Spain, Dubuque, 242-9174. neapolis. Iowa, (563) 556-0620. 24 One River Mississippi, simultaneous 11 Lower Wisconsin State Riverway Board, 11-17 Grand Illinois Trail and Parks bicycle dance at seven Mississippi communities 5 p.m., Boscobel City Hall, Boscobel,Wis., tour, Rochelle, Ill., (309) 788-1845. from Lake Itasca to Louisiana. (608) 739-3188 or (800) 221-3792.1 13-18 Steamboat Days, Burlington, Iowa. 24-25 World War II Weekend, Historic Fort Snelling, St. Paul, (612) 726-1171. June 15-17 Sturgis Mississippi River Motorcycle 8 Lower Wisconsin State Riverway Board, Rally, Davenport, Iowa, (309) 799-7469. 24-26 Mark Twain-like Mississippi River 5p.m., Rhinelander Cabin, Mazomanie, Steamboat Tour, departs from La Crosse, 17 Jammin’ Below the Dam, 6 p.m., Belle- Wis., (608) 739-3188 or (800) 221- Wis., (608) 785- 8572. vue, Iowa. 3792. 25 Summer Program, 1 p.m., Mines of 17 Art in the Park, Clinton, Iowa. 25-28 International Conference on Rivers Spain, Dubuque, Iowa, (563) 556-0620. and Civilization: Multidisciplinary Per- 17 Maiden Rock ( Wis.) Summerfest. 30-July 2 Mississippi Valley Blues Festival, spectives on Major River Basins, UW-La 17 Biking to Save the Turtles, 4 - 7:30 p.m., LeClaire Park, Davenport, Iowa, (563) Crosse,Wis. Mississippi River landing, off Hwy. 61, 322-5837. Weaver, Minn., (507) 932-3007. August 30-July 4 Riverfest, Riverside Park, La Crosse, 22-23 Forum: Invasive Asian Carps in North 18 Ride the River, 6 a.m. - 4 p. m., begins at Wis., (608) 782-6000. LeClaire Park, Davenport, Iowa, (563) America, Peoria, Ill. F 30-Aug. 6 Great River Shakespeare Festival, 322-2969. Winona, Minn., (507) 474-7900.

This 1865 oil painting, View of Upper Mississippi, by Joachim Ferdinand Richardt, is one of the paintings in the show, Navigating the Mississippi, which will be on display at the Muscatine Art Center in Muscatine, Iowa, from May 21 through August 28. (Muscatine Art Center)

56 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 Do you like what you see in Big River? We do custom publishing, too. The same crew that designs and produces this magazine also designs books, promotional materials, interpretive signs, logos and websites. Let us help with your projects. We can help you write, edit, design and layout your documents. We take the same care with each project as we do with our own magazine.

Two companies, one crew Books • Brochures• Business Cards Logos • Newsletters • Websites www.riverwise.com Give us a call about your next project • (800) 303-8201 • (507) 454-5949

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 57 58 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006 (Know Your River continued from page 40) spillways run underneath the dike. If you’re reckless enough to walk across river you can look upstream at a a wet spillway, you’ll have very slip- wide-open expanse of river framed pery algae underfoot. Never swim by towering bluffs and clouds. Turn near the dikes, especially near the around and you’re looking into a ver- spillways. dant jungle of backwaters. In some ways the locks and dams A few pools — such as 5 and 8 — have been good for anglers and bad actually extend a bit upstream from for fish. The fishing is usually better the lock and dam at the top of the on the upper end of pools than the lower end of pools. If you’ve ever Never swim near the dikes, fished for trout, you’re probably especially near the spillways. aware that fish prefer facing up- stream. They also like to travel up- pool, because the dike runs upstream stream, especially in the spring, dur- from the dam before heading to ing the spawning season. This is why shore. These spots, such as the Whit- you often see people fishing just be- man Bottoms and the Reno Bottoms, low the dams and spillways, especial- are some of the best places to paddle ly in the spring. Those poor fish are and see a remnant of the river that just stacked up below the spillways used to be, with swamp white oaks, and dams, filled with eggs or what- winding backwater channels and ever, trying to figure how to get over backwater ponds thick with vegeta- the dike or through the dam. tion. They are also a good place to get Most boaters stick to one or two lost in the maze of channels. During pools. They get to know the beaches, high water in the spring the river will backwater lakes, wing dams and fish- at times run upriver into these back- ing spots. And, like people, the better waters, because much more water is you get to know them, the more com- coming through the dam than over plex and individual you realize they the dike’s spillway. are. F Be very careful near the spillways. At some of the locks and dams the Reggie McLeod is an amateur poololo- gist on Pool 6 and editor of Big River.

(Bob Myers continued from page 60) they pushed it to Horseshoe Lake next year when they return their with their fishing boats. boat. For Sale At the seasoned age of 14 the boys Myers works seven days a week New Log Home on the took two fishing boats all the way to from mid-May to mid-November. Mississippi River, 40 miles Minneapolis and Stillwater, Minn. During the season he is lucky to get a south of La Crosse, panoramic In the 1980s, Myers lived on a cus- day or two off. He spends winters views of the river from every tom, three-decker boat he built at his building new boats, repairing his old room, standard construction wife’s request. boats or doing repairs for other boat with full log inside and out, The houseboat rental business has owners. three spacious bedrooms, three been a roller coaster ride over the He claims that his is the “second baths, living room with fireplace years with its ups and downs mostly oldest houseboat rental agency” in and cathedral ceiling, gourmet following the rise and fall of the wa- the country, but he admits that he re- kitchen with granite countertops ter level. Myers still attends some ally doesn’t know of any older. and stainless appliances, garage, winter boat shows, but he says the in- “But if you just say you are the boat dock, professionally land- ternet is becoming increasingly im- second oldest, no one gets mad.” F scaped, mature apple trees, sun portant. Still, much of his business deck, central air-conditioning comes from repeat customers, such as Gary Kramer is a boater and freelance the Green County Dental Society, writer who lives in Rock Island, Ill., and heat, designer furnished, which has been renting boats for over His last article was “Ike Hastings, In 1800 sq. feet, owner/broker the Wake of the Lilly Belle,” January- 30 years. Groups often book for the February 2004. (262) 784-7771

May-June 2006 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 59 RIVER PEOPLE Bob Myers Boat Builder By Gary Kramer

Bob Myers at the Boatels boat yard outside McGregor, Iowa. (Gary Kramer)

ob Myers grew up in the 1950s in McGregor, Iowa, Bplaying with boats on the riv- er. He still lives in McGregor, and his life still revolves around boats and the river, but he is not playing. Bob has designed and built more than 62 boats in his lifetime. His at- tention is focused on a fleet of nine rental houseboats and 70 slips at his Boatels Houseboat Rentals and Ma- rina. His father started the Boatels business in 1953. The crew of the Penny Lou in 1957 included, left to “My dad was always into some Number 62, a 57-by-15-foot aluminum right, John (Corky) Bickel, Johnny Dykes, Robert kind of business,” Myers recalled. boat. Myers and Jake Trewin.They burned old tires in When he was 11, his family visited The boats were docked at the foot the wood stove so black smoke would pour out a smokestack and look like a real riverboat. (Photo the Chicago Boat Show and saw a of Main Street at a marina owned by courtesy of John Bickel) plywood houseboat built by the Alan Butterfield, who later owned Dreamboat Company. His dad built Sunnyside Marina on the St. Croix three 26-footers just like them. Bob’s kid and formed a friendship that still contribution, he laughs, was, “I was Bob has designed and lasts. When McGregor tore down its there.” old fire station to make way for a new Those became their first rentals, built more than 62 boats one, Corky’s father arranged for the and three more boats of steel and alu- in his lifetime. boys to get some of the old wood. minum quickly joined the fleet. They They turned that wood and some bar- were very basic, with chemical toilets River. When barely a teenager, Myers rels into the Penny Lou, a houseboat- and no running water. and his friends would take folks out type vessel named for Corky’s dog. “If you wanted a shower, you went for boat rides in a Chris Craft Conti- Each year they would add new fea- for a swim,” Myers said. nental that was part of Butterfield’s tures to it, like a wood stove and a Some of their early boats were Elk Boat Line. They would cruise up second story. built by Carricraft, but Bob began and down the river, giving the pas- “The second story was more like a building his own and continues to do sengers a running commentary about tent,” Myers laughed. so. Their first boat was named Num- interesting places. It didn’t have a motor at first, so ber One. Last winter Bob completed He met John “Corky” Bickel as a (Bob Myers continues on page 59)

60 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2006