J1R8 04 - SKST3 – Make handcraft/ , waistcoats or : completion and finishing

Overview This standard is for those who complete and finish trousers, waistcoats or skirts in bespoke tailoring.

The job role may involve: 1. inserting zips and closures 2. closing side seams 3. putting on 4. closing trousers, waistcoats or skirts 5. final finishing and pressing

Performance criteria: P1 hand sew a variety of garment parts P2 machine sew/ overlock a variety of garment parts P3 check waist and inside leg measurements P4 make up fly and button holes, P5 add and adjustment buckles P6 complete and adjustments P7 sew linings P8 make and attach extra fittings as required P9 baste in waistcoat back, lining and back straps P10 stay front scyes of waistcoat P11 close trousers and skirts P12 blind stitch hem of and trouser bottoms P13 baste and fell braid P14 complete final finishing, check and press P15 communicate effectively with colleagues and customers Knowledge and understanding: K1 a variety of fabrics and their suitable applications to construction K2 the application of suitable threads and interfacing for chosen fabrics K3 the principles of sewing K4 the range and application of seams, darts, zips and hand stitches K5 making accurate estimates of fabrics and materials K6 making accurate and detailed measurements K7 the company’s relevant quality standards K8 the company’s relevant rules, codes, systems, procedures and guidelines K9 health & safety in the workplace Skills: hand stitch: 1. fly to -side and finish button-catch 2. front edges of waistcoat 3. pleats of skirt as required and around zip 4. back stitch seat seam from inside leg to fly 5. the seat-seam 6. double tacks at side pockets 7. ‘D’ tacks at hip and cash pockets 8. side-straps or elastic at back 9. bags

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10. curtain linings and finish side pockets 11. triangular tack at bottom of fly

machine sewing: 1. machine darts 2. button-catch to topside 3. fly lining to topside 4. side pocket facings 5. bands 6. pocket bags 7. insert zips 8. side-seams 9. waist-bands 10. waist-bands to trousers 11. hip pockets 12. back lining to waistcoat 13. skirt linings and insert 14. inside leg seams 15. hip pocket 16. in cash pocket facings 17. extra fittings according to style

finishing and pressing: 1. press open side-seams 2. press open inside-leg seam 3. press open waist-band seam 4. press open fly and button-catch seam 5. shrink leg shape 6. press open jetting seams in hip pocket 7. press side pockets 8. press the tops and seat seams 9. press linings and pocket bags 10. press the bottoms 11. press creases and legs 12. press whole garment 13. check trousers for ‘gloss’

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Developed by Skillset Version number 3 Date approved January 2012 Indicative review date December 2015 Validity Current Status Original Originating organisation Skillfast-UK Original URN O46NBCTT3 Relevant occupations Manufacturing technologies; Crafts, creative arts and design; Design Associate Professionals; Textile and Garment Trades Suite Bespoke Cutting & Tailoring Key words Complete; finish; trousers; waistcoats; skirts; bespoke; tailoring

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