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Home , Water jet cutter

Build Instructions

Solar Assisted Essential Oil Distiller

Johnathon Wheaton Nathan Johnson Peter Coutts Benjamin Wolfe

Rochester Institute of Technology Senior Design Team P15484

Table of Contents Trough ...... 1 Tracker ...... 2 Bike Breakdown ...... 2 Subsystem 1: Box collector ...... 2 Subsystem 2: Can Wheel ...... 7 Subsystem 3: Gearing ...... 10 Plant Matter Container ...... 12 Drip feed / condenser ...... 14 Condenser: ...... 14 Drip Feed: ...... 14 Separator/Collector ...... 15 Condenser Table: ...... 15 Plant Matter Container Table: ...... 15 Trough Frame: ...... 16

Trough

Tools: 1. Water jet cutter 2. Hand a. Philips head attachment b. ¼” c. 2 ½” hole 3. Drill press a. Drill bit for pilot hole 1/8 in 4. Lathe 5. Solder , flux, blow torch 6. Welder 7. Clamps 8. 90 degree magnetic supports 9. Band saw 10. Epoxy 11. Spray adhesive

Steps: 1. Use water jet cutter to cut parabolic supports and trough walls. 2. Brush off any excess rust using a wire wheel. 3. Use right angle magnets or other supports to position parabolic supports in their final position on the steel angle. 4. Weld each of the parabolic supports on either side to the steel angle. 5. Spray the entire metal trough frame including trough walls. 6. Cut the lithographic and mylar to size according to the drawings. 7. Set the lithographic plate in the metal trough frame using the steel angle to hold the lithographic plate against the parabolic supports. 8. Spray adhesive over the surface of the lithographic plate according the instructions on the can. 9. Using at least 2 people, align and gently lay mylar onto the lithographic plate preventing bubbles from and scraping or rolling out any that do. 10. Cut the two 1-1/2 x 9 steel safety plates to size according to the drawing. 11. Drill a ¼in clearance hole through the center of the safety plate. 12. Use a brake press to bend the safety plates at the appropriate location at a 90 degree angle. 13. Apply a 1/8 in layer of epoxy to the inner surface of the safety plates according to the drawing. 14. Using a lathe, turn and cut the scrap metal to 1in diameter x ½in length. Thread a hole through the center for a ¼-20 screw. 15. Spray paint the safety plates and turned metal piece. 16. Screw the safety plates to the turned metal piece per the drawing. 17. Screw the 2 tracker bolts into the trough wall. 18. Bolt the bearings to the trough walls. 19. Place the turned metal piece into the 1in bore diameter bearing. Tighten the set screw on the bearing.

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20. Bolt the lower trough wall (with 1in bearing) to the metal trough frame. The lower parabolic edges should be flush (see drawing). 21. Cut the two copper pipes to length according to drawing using a band saw. Remove all burrs. 22. Fit receiver pieces together according to the drawing with solder and flux. Be sure to create a good seal with the solder. Test for seal with water. 23. Spray paint the copper receiver. 24. Slide 1in ID silicone piece over the smaller end of the receiver down to about 4 inches from the end. 25. Slide trough wall with 1-1/2in bore diameter bearing over the end of the trough so that the silicone tube is between the copper pipe and bearing. 26. Place the cap end of the receiver in the safety plates that are assembled to the 1in bearing wall. 27. Bolt upper trough wall to the metal trough frame keeping lower parabolic edges flush. 28. Use the slots in the walls to adjust the receiver distance from the reflector as necessary to allow more or less concentration.

Tracker

Note: While some of the tracker build is similar to the SolarFlower project, many steps have changed. It is advised to watch the SolarFlower tutorials and be familiar with them, but be aware that about much of it has been adapted to best fit the needs of this project.

Bike Breakdown : 1. 2. 3. Paper towels to degrease/clean parts with 4. Bike spoke tightener or pliers can be used

After obtaining the bike, strip down the bike making sure to collect the:  Cable tensioners  Wheel spokes and nipples  Sprocket  Frame  Handlebar assembly (remove cables, brakes, shifters, and grips)  Wheel inner tube

Subsystem 1: Box collector Tools: 1. 2. Power Drill

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3. 6mm drill bit 4. Bench vice 5. Needle nose pliers 6. 7. Box 8. Printer & paper 9. 10. Measuring cup (10mL) 11. Dremel 12. Spray adhesive 13. Tin 14. Press 15. Drill Press & Drill bits

Refer to Drawings:

Steps: See also http://www.solarflower.org/tutorial.php?lang=en&tut=box#.VH07_DHF_h4

1. Take the 20cm length of copper pipe and drill a 6mm hole in the pipe, about 2cm from one end. 2. Take a cable tensioner bolt and cut the top bit off the tensioner bolt. This is so it takes up less space when you flatten the copper pipe. 3. Cut a small circle of inner tube rubber, just enough to be slightly larger than the head of the tensioner bolt. 4. Cut a small circle in the center of the inner tube rubber and push the tensioner bolt through it. This is to make sure the pipe will be airtight. a. NOTE: if you are braising or soldering the pipe closed then you don't need to do this. 5. With a hacksaw, put two cuts into the top of the tensioner bolt, so that when it's pressed tight within the pipe liquid can still run through it. 6. Place the tensioner bolt through the hole you just drilled in the copper pipe. 7. Put the original nut back on the tensioner bolt and tighten with pliers. 8. In a vice, or carefully with a hammer (preferably the vice) squash the pipe to about half its width, so that the bolt you just placed is in the middle of one flat side. This doesn't need to be too precise. 9. Flatten one of the corners in the pipe's opposite end. You want the flat area to be about 4cm long. The easiest way to do this is to put something metal about 1cm wide in the vice, place the end of the copper over it, and hit with a hammer until reasonably flat. 10. Drill a 6mm hole in the flat bit, about 2cm from the end. 11. Place a tensioner bolt, with rubber the same as the other one, through the hole and tighten on the original nut. You don't need to cut the top off or make cross cuts. (If you're soldering or braising you don't need the rubber.) 12. Flatten the ends of the pipe. The easiest way is to compress them in the vice, then finish with a hammer. Make sure the rubber stays in place, poking out a couple of

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millimeters, and pay attention to the corners, making sure they're completely sealed. 13. Flatten the whole tube so it contains about 10 milliliters. This is easily done with a hammer on a flat solid surface, such as an or your bench vice. 14. Seal both ends of the copper pipe with epoxy. Allow proper time to let the epoxy set. 15. Check the volume by placing a short length of 6mm PVC tube onto one of the tensioner bolts, putting some water in your mouth, and slowly squirting the water into the pipe while holding it flat. When the water starts coming out the other bolt take off the PVC tube and drain the water from the pipe into a small measuring cup. 16. Continue to flatten with a hammer until the volume is about 10ml, give or take. It's easier to decrease the volume than increase it, so take your time and don't overshoot. 17. You can increase the volume by placing the pipe in your vice flat side up, so that it squeezes the edges back together. Don't suck water out of the pipe into your mouth, it might not be very clean. 18. Now test the seal on the pipe to ensure it's airtight. a. Do this by placing the PVC tube on one tensioner bolt, put your finger tight over the other, and suck as much air out as you can with your mouth. Without letting any air in, put the end of your tongue over the pipe so you can feel the vacuum and hold it there. b. If after 10-15 seconds or more the pipe is still stuck to your tongue then the seal is good, if you can feel the vacuum lessening and the pipe falls off your tongue then you have a leak. c. If you do, put the pipe in a container of water and blow air into it, looking for any bubbles. d. If the leak is at an end of the pipe hit it with a hammer until it stops. e. If the leak is around a tensioner bolt, try tightening the nut. 19. When you're confident the pipe is airtight cover around the pipe/tensioner bolt interfaces with epoxy resin. 20. Allow time for epoxy resin to harden. 21. Take the metal tin and remove any wrapping or labels, and the lid. Drill a 6mm hole in a flat surface on the base, 2-3mm in from as close to the edge as possible. 22. Insert the tensioner bolt into the hole in the tin and hold in place with the original nut. You may need to use needle nose pliers for this. 23. Drill a 6mm hole in a flat surface on the tin's lid, 2-3mm in from as close to the edge as possible. 24. Insert the cable tensioner valve into the hole, with the thread facing inwards. Secure tightly with a circle of rubber and the original nut. 25. Place the lid on the tin so that the valve is on the opposite side of it from the tensioner bolt. 26. Fill the edges of the lid with epoxy resin, so that the tin is completely airtight. 27. Print out the four template images (right click the links below, 'save link as' to download): Angled Top Left Angled Top Right (**GO TO SOLARFLOWER LINK ABOVE TO DOWNLOAD**) Flat Bottom Left Flat Bottom right

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28. Measure the printouts as below to make sure they've been printed full size and not distorted:

29. Tape the two tops and two bottoms together. Place them up on a window or screen to make sure they're lined up and overlap properly. 30. Tape the Tops to the smaller bit of corrugated plastic, and the Bottoms to one end of the larger. 31. With a craft knife / or similar cut the lines marked in red below, making sure to cut completely through the plastic. If the corrugated plastic is heavy duty, use a dremel with a ceramic disk to cut out the curves.

32. Remove the paper templates. 33. Cut two pieces of aluminum plate with tin snips so they cover the area within the cut lines of each piece of corrugated plastic and stick them down with spray

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adhesive. This doesn't need to be super precise, as long as they don't overlap the cuts. a. IMPORTANT NOTE: make sure you have the grain of the aluminum running sideways across the box, rather than from the front to the back.

b. This is because the grain scatters the light, but only in one direction. If the grain is running the wrong way it will disrupt the optical precision needed for the device to track accurately. 34. Cut two pieces of aluminum, measuring 29cm by 32cm, making sure the metal grain is running parallel to the 29cm edge. 35. Insert the short edge of both pieces into the curved cuts in the larger, bottom panel of corrugated plastic, with about 1cm poking through. These will form the sides of the box. 36. Check that the aluminum grain is running across the curvature of the sides, ie pointing from the front of the box to the back, as opposed to vertically from the bottom to the top:

37. Insert the copper pipe + tin assembly into the same panel, so that the bottom tensioner bolt is underneath it.

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a. You will need to fold out the flaps of plastic around the cut (which may be easier if you cut rough one layer of the plastic board). b. You will also need to cut flaps in the aluminum sides to accommodate the tin. The size and placing of these will depend on the tin. c. Make sure the front edge of the copper pipe is level with the focus point:

38. Insert the aluminum sides through the curved cuts in the top panel, so that the metal stuck to it is facing inwards. The top panel needs to be angled so that the distance between them at the back of the box is 21 cm, and 30 cm at the front, which should give an angle of 20 degrees.

39. Use epoxy to seal all aluminum/corrugated plastic interfaces. This will ensure that the structure is sturdy and more permanent. 40. Use epoxy at the interface of the tin can with the curved sides of the collector. This will hold the tin can and pipe assembly in place. a. Try to use as little epoxy as possible on the inside of the collector because this will block sunlight from reflecting onto the pipe. Use more epoxy underneath the collector. 41. Using the sheet metal press, cut out the box collector brackets according to drawing 2-000. 42. Drill holes using a drill press according to drawing 2-000.

Subsystem 2: Can Wheel Tools:

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1. Hacksaw 2. Drill press 3. 3mm Drill bit 4. 6mm drill bit 5. 10mm drill bit 6. Adjustable pliers 7. Adjustable wrench 8. Pliers 9. Flathead screwdriver 10. Bolt cutters or Angle grinder 11. Scissors 12. Flat 13. Sheet metal shearing press machine

Refer to Drawings:

Steps: See also: http://www.solarflower.org/tutorial.php?lang=en&tut=wheel#.VH08EjHF_h4

1. Take one of the aluminum cans and remove the tab. With a hacksaw and scissors, tin snips if you have them, cut the can so that it looks something like this:

2. Drill a 3mm hole in the small raised circle to which the can's tab was attached, and another in the center of the can's base. 3. Take one of the bike spokes and with a vice and hammer, or with two pairs of pliers, bend it like this:

Insert the spoke through the holes you drilled, with the threaded end at the top of the can.

4. Screw a spoke nipple down onto the spoke so that there is at least 5mm of thread showing above it.

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5. Take one of the 15mm x 65mm pieces of flat aluminum metal and drill a 10mm (or the size of your bike wheel axle) hole 55mm from one end and a 3mm hole 5mm from the other. 6. Insert the end of the spoke through the smaller hole and secure tightly with a second nipple. It’s best if you have the nipple heads against the metal. 7. Turn the bent end of the spoke so that it's pointing at the nearest edge of the metal, like so:

8. Repeat these first seven steps twice more so that you have three cans+spokes+flats. 9. Take the smooth steel rod, the spring, two shaft collars, and a roll of duct tape. 10. Measure about 7 inches from one end of the rod and make a mark with a permanent marker on the rod. This will be the center of your spring location. 11. Cut a strip of duct tape that is about ¾ the width of the spring and about 3 feet long. You can always add more duct tape later if you need to. The tape will help keep the spring in place radially on the rod. 12. Wrap the duct tape directly over the center mark you made. Make sure the duct tape is evenly wrapped. 13. File down the ends of the spring so that they are flat and that no part of the spring overlaps itself. You can cut the ends of the spring off if you need to with the bolt cutters and then file the ends down again. 14. Place the spring over the rod and duct tape. Check to see if the spring is secured in place but not too tightly. You should be able to slightly move the spring over the tape not too difficultly. If it is too tight, remove some duct tape or if it is too loose, add some more duct tape. 15. Place a shaft collar on either side of the spring on the rod. 16. Tighten one shaft collar by using a hex key in the set screw. Make sure it is very tight. Make sure that the spring can be placed evenly over the duct tape when it is compressed about a quarter inch. 17. Use a pair of pliers to compress the spring about a ¼ inch. The key is to get the spacing of the spring to match the teeth of your bike sprocket. Another set of hands may help this step. 18. Tighten the other shaft collars set screw with a hex key so that the spring holds the compressed shape.

The spring worm gear needs to sit on the same as the sprocket:

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.

So, make sure the spring sits perfectly aligned with the rod.

Subsystem 3: Gearing Tools: 1. Bench vice grip 2. Drill press 3. 4mm drill bit 4. 6mm drill bit 5. 10mm drill bit 6. 3/8”+ drill bit 7. 1”+ drill bit 8. Adjustable pliers 9. Hacksaw or angle grinder or band saw 10. Hex keys (Allen) 11. Hammer 12. Metal file 13. Pliers

Refer to Drawings:

Steps: See also: http://www.solarflower.org/tutorial.php?lang=en&tut=gearing#.VH08PDHF_h4

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1. First get the bike frame. With a hacksaw, angle grinder, or band saw make the cuts illustrated in red in the image above. The forks and frame can be cut anywhere in that general vicinity, but it's important that the handlebars be cut flat across the stem, as close to 90 degrees as possible. Every bike is different, but most should work ok. 2. With an Allen key, remove and keep the long bolt that runs down the inside of the stem (if your bike uses that system, which it probably does), so as not to damage it. 3. Remove the stem (straight pipe that the handlebars were attached to) from the head tube. It should just slide out after you've removed the long bolt that was holding it in place. Also remove the short metal cylinder cut at an angle (called a wedge) which the bolt screws into. 4. Using adjustable pliers, remove the top nut from the head tube. 5. Place the large sprocket over the head tube's thread. The sprocket hole will probably be slightly too small, in which case use a metal file to enlarge it until it fits. It's important that the sprocket be centered as accurately as possible. 6. Replace and tighten the top nut. Check that the sprocket is centered by spinning it. If it describes a perfect circle then it's centered, if it seems to be wobbling in and out even a little tap with a hammer until it's centered. You may need to file part of the hole larger. a. To avoid damaging the sprocket teeth with the hammer place something thin, such as a piece of flat metal, between two teeth and hit that instead. b. It's important to get this reasonably accurate. Once in place tighten the top nut as much as possible, to ensure the sprocket doesn't slip. Recheck that it's still centered. c. Check that the top nuts aren't too tight against the head tube, and that everything can rotate freely. If there's any friction wind the nuts back slightly. Too loose is better than too tight. 7. Take the section of steel and cut so that it's about the same length as the cut top of the bike stem. About 4 inches long. 8. Drill a 6mm hole through the top and bottom walls using the drill press, about a centimeter from one side. 9. Drill a 6mm hole about a centimeter from the other side, through the top wall only. 10. Drill a 4mm hole through the bottom wall only, so that it lines up with the previous hole. 11. Place the square steel over the top of the stem, so that the 4mm hole is in the center of the pipe. 12. Insert the long bolt and screw partially into the wedge. The head of the bolt should be able to pass through the top 6mm hole (if it doesn't, make it larger), but not the 4mm one. 13. Drill a 6mm hole in the bit of metal sticking out the side of the stem using the drill press, so that it lines up with the other holes in the square steel. 14. Reinsert the stem into the head tube, just enough that it's stable. 15. Tighten the long bolt with a hex key until it's all locked in place. This may need to be adjusted later when you line the trough up and attach the tracker and the frame. 16. Drill 10mm holes in each of the two bits of remaining bike frame, so that they're about 1.5cm past the edge of the sprocket, vertically.

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17. Cut the two brackets for the gearing out of the sheet of 1/8inch thick aluminum using a sheet metal shearing press machine. Follow drawing 2-200. 18. Use the brake press machine to bend the brackets 90 degrees in the specified locations on drawing 2-200. a. If you go too far past 90 degrees, bend it back with your hands. Use a vice grip to help. 19. Drill holes in the brackets according to drawing 2-200 using a drill press. a. Make sure there is about 2 millimeters clearance between the bracket and the bearing when it is inserted. This will allow for some play to help line up the rod and bearings. It will also give the epoxy a place to sit and hold the bearing in place. 20. Drill holes in the smaller side of the plastic container that match exactly the placement of the holes in the bent aluminum brackets a. Line up the plastic container with the bracket so that the largest hole from the bracket is directly in the center of the shorter side of the plastic container. b. Make sure the edge of the bracket is parallel with the top of the plastic container. c. Use a permanent marker to mark the holes on the outside of the plastic container. d. Use a drill and appropriate sized drill bits to drill out the holes that were just marked. 21. Use a drill and bit that matches the OD of your bike cable tensioner valve to put a hole in the bottom left corner of the plastic container that faces away from the holes drilled for the bracket. 22. Screw the bike cable tensioner into the hole so that the head is inside the plastic container. 23. Screw the nut onto the outside of the plastic container. Make sure it is very tight. 24. Use epoxy to fill in the area around the cable tensioner head inside the plastic container. This will act as a filler so that the ethanol escapes the valve as quickly as possible. 25. Use epoxy to seal the outside of the plastic container around the valve and hole. 26. Allow time for the epoxy to cure.

Continue to Assembly Instructions document to finish the solar tracker.

Plant Matter Container

Tools: 1. C-Clamps 2. CNC Mill (or similar) 3. Lathe + Drill Bits/Separator 4. Arc-Welder + MAG 5. Brake Press 6. Epoxy (Not necessary) 7. Permanent Marker 8. //T-square 9. Metal 10. De-

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Steps: 1. Mark center marks for holes using permanent marker on the pressure cooker according to drawing (Drawing 3-000) 2. chamber to and drill 2 1” diameter holes(Drawing 3-000) 3. Clamp lid to end mill, drill 1 9/16” diameter hole. (Part Number 3-000) 4. Place aluminum bar stock into lathe. 5. Using lathe, turn approximately two thirds of the aluminum bar stock down approximately 0.020” according to drawing 3-000 6. Using lathe, face both sides of bar stock 7. Using lathe, center drill bar stock 8. Using lathe, step drill ¼” diameter hole through bar stock 9. Using lathe, step drill 7/16” diameter hole through bar stock. 10. Using lathe, separate bar stock into two pieces according to drawing 3-000 11. Using lathe, face un-faced side of bar stock Piece A 12. Using lathe, counter sink hole of Piece A 13. Using lathe, edges of Piece A 14. Turn off lathe, but keep Piece A within lathe, lubricate and thread the interior of the hole of Piece A to match the thread of part (3-XXX) 15. Remove Piece A from lathe, place Piece B in lathe 16. Face un-faced side of Piece B 17. Using lathe, step drill ¾” diameter hole into Piece B. 18. Using lathe, chamfer edges 19. Using de-burr tool, de-burr edges 20. Remove Piece B from lathe 21. Place turned down sections of Pieces A and B into respective holes in side wall of boiling chamber 22. Weld Piece A and Piece B into place. 23. Shear four pieces of aluminum to specified dimensions (drawing 3-XXX) 24. Using brake press, bend 90 degree angles in two of the aluminum pieces to specified dimensions in drawing 3-000 25. Align 3rd and 4th pieces and stack on top of each other. 26. Clamp and align 3rd and 4th pieces onto CNC mill. 27. Mark X:0 Y:0 at top left hand corner of stacked pieces 28. Move mill to X+0.625 Y-0.625, create path leaving 0.625 all the way around the outside of pieces 3 and 4 to remove inner material according to drawing 3-000 29. Run CNC mill in three steps (2 rough cuts and 1 finish cut) to mill out the inside of the aluminum pieces 30. Weld/Epoxy pieces 1, 2, 3, and 4 into place to create mesh grid stand. 31. Place compression fitting into hole in lid of chamber, seal the inside of the lid using a sealing nut. 32. Wrap barbed fitting in plumber’s tape, grease the inside of piece B of bar stock. 33. Thread barbed fitting into piece B of bar stock 34. Attach silicone tube line from drip feed to barbed fitting in side wall of pressure cooker 35. Attach silicone tube line from condenser to compression fitting in the lid of the pressure cooker 36. Attach silicone tube from trough to turned down bar stock in the side of the pressure cooker.

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37. Secure lines with hose clamps.

Drip feed / condenser

Tools: 1. 7/16” wrench 2. 7/8” drill bit 3. 1/2” drill bit 4. 5/16” end mill bit 5. Drill 6. Mill

Condenser: Steps: 1. Drill 7/8” Diameter hole for condenser tube grommet into the bottom of the tote. 2. Place sealing grommet in drilled hole. 3. Drill 1/2” Diameter hole for drip feed in location specified by. 4. Use a table mounted vice to hold a 6” diameter scrap metal piece,, at least a foot long, to be used as a guide to bend the tube around. Carefully wrap the 6” diameter tube with the stainless steel condenser tube. Allow 36” of tube to remain un-coiled be used to connect to the lid of the plant matter container. 5. Place 18 gal tote of top of condenser table. 6. Place condenser tube into 18 gal tote, press bottom end of the tube through the sealing grommet. 7. Cut (2) 3/4” PVC pipes to 18” long. 8. Use a mill with a 5/16” diameter end mill bit to cut 25 Slots into the PVC pipes. 9. Each slot needs to be approximately 1/4” deep and spaced 0.6” from the center of each slot to adjacent slot. 10. Hand bend the overhanging condenser tube to reach the top of the plant matter container. 11. Use compression fitting to connect tube entrance to plant matter container, connect with lock nut.

Drip Feed: Steps: 1. Attached male barbed fitting part number to heat resistant, semi clear tubing. 2. Screw barbed fitting to needle valve. 3. Attach needle valve to female to male adapter fitting.

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4. Place male end of adapter fitting through side wall in plant matter container, seal hole with grommet and lock nut.

Separator/Collector Tools: 1. 1/4” drill bit 2. drill 3. hammer Steps: 1. Drill 1/4” hole in location. 2. Hammer bottom surface of the stainless steel bucket into slight conical shape with lowest point at the center of drilled hole. 3. Place bucket on table structure. 4. Cut silicone tube 3 inches from either side. 5. Connect barb fitted stopcock to both sections of the cut silicon tube. 6. Place silicon tube, with the valve at the lower end of the tube, into the drilled hole in the stainless steel bucket. 7. Seal tube connection with epoxy.

Condenser Table: Tools: 1. 2. Chop saw 3. 4. Power drill 5. ½” drill bit or larger 6. Steps: 1. Cut (4) pieces of 2"x4"x8' into (4) 72" pieces and (4) 24" pieces using a chop saw. 2. Cut (1) piece of 2"x4"x8' into (6) 15" pieces. 3. Cut (1) piece of 2"x4"x8' into (2) 48" pieces. 4. Cut top platform and middle platform from 3/4" using a table saw. 5. Drill hole into the middle platform big enough for a jigsaw to fit in. 6. Use jigsaw to cut a hole into the middle platform.

Plant Matter Container Table: Tools: 1. Table saw 2. Chop saw 3. Band saw

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4. Tape measure 5. Shears Steps: 1. Measured and cut 49.5" Leg, 20" support, and 17" support from 1 piece of 1.5"x1.5"x8' using chop saw. (repeat 3x) 2. Measured and cut plywood for the top platform and the middle platform using table saw. 3. Cut 3"x3" corners out of the middle platform using . 4. Cut aluminum sheet to size using handheld shears. 5. Use band saw to cut 1”x4” supports.

Trough Frame: Tools: 1. Chop saw 2. Tape measure Steps: 1. Cut 2x4’s to length using chop saw. 2. Cut 45 degree angles using chop saw.

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