www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 1 Advertisement
www.BeerCapsMaps.com Advertisement
www.latrappetrappist.com The Beer Connoisseur® is operated by On Tap Publishing, LLC. ______
Lynn Davis | Founder, Editor & Publisher Chris Miller | Founding Partner
Jim Dykstra | Editor Chris Guest | Editor
Editorial Department Owen Ogletree | Associate Editor Bob Townsend | Associate Editor PREMIUM MEMBERSHIP Options available on a monthly, yearly and 2 year basis. Graphics Department Enjoy 6-issues annually of the Premium Web Magazine with back Lynn Davis | Creative Director issues, Beer School, Expert Reviews, Popular Reviews, Members Forum, BC Network Offers and more. Founding Beer Review Coordinator www.BeerConnoisseur.com/Premium-Membership Charlie Gow (1960 – 2014) Digital Magazine Editions Web Development Subscriptions, single copies and back issues are offered by 3rd IMG FX Design - www.imgfxdesign.com party digital providers including; Amazon, Apple Newstand, Barnes & Noble, Flipster, Google Play, Advertising & Trade Sales Magzter, Readly and Zinio. Kenneth Motter | National Accounts Manager [email protected] SOCIAL Media Mark Haas | National Accounts Manager Facebook | facebook.com/BeerConnoisseur [email protected] Google Plus | https://plus.google.com/+Beerconnoisseur Instagram | instagram.com/BeerConnoisseurMag Letters to the Editor Twitter | twitter.com/BeerConnoisseur We welcome feedback from readers. Please e-mail [email protected], or mail your letter to: Attention: Editorial Reader Services The Beer Connoisseur® P.O. Box 420903, Atlanta, GA 30342 Premium Mebership If you have a question about your Premium Membership or the web or digital magazine you may submit a support ticket at: Writing Opportunities Freelance inquiries are welcome. E-mail story ideas, along with https://beerconnoisseur.com/member-services or e-mail us at writing samples and complete contact information to: [email protected]. [email protected] ______You may also write to us at: The Beer Connoisseur® Attention: Member Services, P.O. Box 420903, Atlanta, GA 30342. THE BEER CONNOISSEUR® In order to provide the best customer service possible, Winter 2017, Issue 28 (ISSN 2151-4356) is published bi-monthly we handle all customer service related requests in-house. solely online for $15.00 per year by On Tap Publishing, LLC, P.O. Box 420903, Atlanta, Ga. 30342. Gift Subscriptions The Beer Connoisseur® is the ideal gift! Permissions: You may not reproduce any part of The Beer Connoisseur® without first obtaining written consent The easiest way to give The Beer Connoisseur® is to from On Tap Publishing, LLC and its authorized manager(s). order online at www.BeerConnoisseur.com/Premium-Membership
4 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
www.suenner-brauerei.de FEATURES
Mr. Brettanomyces, Part I In our newest series, we meet the man behind the horseblanket, bedecked in sweaty leather, who’s on the forefront of modern brewing.
St. Bernard’s: A Tail of Licker Barrels and Heroism Winter 2017, Issue 28 Join us as we separate fact and fiction in the storied history of the Most Interesting Man’s Best Friend in the World. TABLE OF CONTENTS Organic Beer: The Natural Choice From the Editors Discover why many feel the right choice is what comes naturally. FIRST RUNNINGS
Top 100 Beers of 2016 TRV A EL & TRENDS The highest rated beers of the year reviewed by our panel of judges. Enjoy the brewers perspective and Sonoma Calling judge’s second opinions. Connoisseur’s Corner
Breweries of the Year Winter Style Recommendations Congratulations to 2016’s brewers producing the best Think outside the Bocks with these “alt-wintry-night” beers collectively as reviewed by our panel. beer styles.
The Beer In Review REVIEWS A look at the best brews in popular style categories reviewed by our judging panel. Also find other fun statistics and best of lists like the funniest names, best Beer Review theme names and more. Single-blind reviews from our panel of experts. Featuring pFriem’s Frambozen, Jester King’s Boxer’s Revenge, Night Shift’s Santilli and many more!
Brewer Q & A Brewers share secrets of their highest-scoring beers.
6 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
https://www.grainfather.com/ From the Editors
As we plot a course for the uncharted waters of 2017, brewing world, tell a “tail” for the ages, take you out it’s important to remain hopeful. Having something to west, give you some pointers for what’s good drinking look forward to is essential to health and happiness, and when the light on the snow is twinkling and cap it all off when you time it right, beer is as powerful a motivator with an organic healthy serving of knowledge. as William Wallace’s pre-battle speech in Braveheart. Join us as we take a deep breath, engage our In the name of things to be jazzed about, we’ve got a retronasal capabilities and become one with the esters. host of places to go, people to meet and bottles to seek. Everything’s gonna be okay. Exhale as you imbibe. Repeat. Happy 2017 from The Beer Connoisseur! But before we begin our journey into the unknown with heads and pints held high, we’re going to remember the Cheers! good times. That’s right, The Beer Connoisseur’s Top 100 Jim & Chris Beers of 2016 are here, with enough superlative clout to keep you going for at least one senate term. We’ll also drink in The Beer in Review, featuring Best in Show styles as reviewed by our judges, and other fun categories like Best Name. We can’t forget the people behind the magic, either -- we’ll rank the brewers who made everything okay in 2016 with our Brewery of the Year review.
That’s just the tip of the Carlsberg. We’ll introduce you to the most mysterious and often nefarious man in the
8 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
www.BeerKnurd.com Top 100 Beers of 2016 With a new year upon us, there comes a time when we must ruminate on our past. For us, that means a discussion of the best beers we reviewed in 2016.
In 2016, a whopping 34 beers we reviewed attained the level of “world-class,” ranging from obscure Belgian styles to ubiquitous American IPAs. Congratulations to all the breweries that achieved this status; your efforts have helped craft beer grow into a joyous celebration of delightful flavors and artistic experimentation, where nothing is off-limits and rules are meant to be broken.
For each beer that attained a world-class ranking, we interviewed one of the brewers that made that beer happen to discuss some of the beer’s backstory. Also, the judges have revisited the world-class beers they evaluated, dis- cussing various topics that revolve around the best beers they reviewed in 2016.
Without further ado, here are the Top 100 Beers of 2016.
World Class (100 to 96)
1. Frambozen (tied) 3. Bomb! 5. Santilli Rated 99 Rated 98 Rated 97 by John C. Tull by Joseph Formanek by Rick Franckhauser pFriem Family Brewers Prairie Artisan Ales Night Shift Brewing
2. King JJJuliusss 4. Parabola 6. pFriem Wit Rated 99 Rated Rated 97 Rated 97 by Dan Preston by Randy Scorby by John C. Tull Tree House Brewing Co. Firestone Walker Brewing Co. pFriem Family Brewers
10 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Top 100 Beers of 2016
7. Maple Tripple Ale 16. Boxer’s Revenge 25. Moirai India Pale Ale Rated 97 Rated 97 Rated 96 by Dan Preston by Susan Ruud by Randy Scorby Lawson’s Finest Liquids Jester King Brewery FATE Brewing Company
8. Alexander 17. KBS 26. Big Guns Rated 97 Rated 96 Rated 96 by Jason Johnson by Michael Bury by Tracy Hensley Brouwerij Rodenbach Founders Brewing Co. Fort George Brewery
9. N10 Imperial Blended Ale 18. Pogue’s Run Porter 27. Meyer Lemon Lager Rated 97 Rated 96 Rated 96 by Michael Heniff by Rick Franckhauser by Tracy Hensley Ninkasi Brewing Company Flat12 Bierwerks Anchor Brewing
10. Wild Sour Series: Flanders Red 19. Expletus 28. Duet Rated 97 Rated 96 Rated 96 by Josh Weikert by Tracy Hensley by Tracy Hensley DESTIHL Brewery Avery Brewing Co. Alpine Beer Company
11. Espresso Oak Aged Yeti 20. Vintage 2013 29. Habanero Sculpin Rated 97 Rated 96 Rated 96 by Josh Weikert by Jason Johnson by Nelson Crowle Great Divide Brewing Co. Brouwerij Rodenbach Ballast Point Brewing & Spirits
12. Bouket 21. Rare Trait 30. 20 Year Storm Rated 97 Rated 96 Rated 96 by Jason Johnson by Mike Castagno by Mike Castagno De Proef Brouwerij & Trillium Brewing Co. Cerebral Brewing Heavy Seas Beer
13. Ol’ Oi 22. Classic Saison 31. 30th Anniversary Keller Pils Rated 97 Rated 96 Rated 96 by Susan Ruud by Graham Barron by Owen Ogletree Jester King Brewery Blackberry Farm Brewery Summit Brewing Co.
14. Porter Culture 23. Hopslam 32. Mach 10 Rated 97 Rated 96 Rated 96 by John C. Tull by Joseph Formanek by Nelson Crowle Hops and Grain Brewery Bell’s Brewery Bear Republic Brewing Co.
15. Stone Farking Wheaton W00tstout 24. Vanilla Bean Stout 33. Tartanium Berliner Weisse Rated 97 Rated 96 Rated 96 by Michael Heniff by Tracy Hensley by Michael Heniff Stone Brewing Co. Avery Brewing Co. Baxter Brewing Co.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 11 Top 100 Beers of 2015
34. Barrel Aged Tavern Ale 43. Apex 52. Suicide Squeeze IPA Rated 96 Rated 95 Rated 95 by Sal Mortillaro II by Nelson Crowle by Tracy Hensley Big Boss Brewing Co. Bear Republic Brewing Co. Fort George Brewery
35. pFriem Pilsner 44. Ground Control 53. Funky Gold Simcoe Rated 95 Rated 95 Rated 95 by John C. Tull by Michael Heniff by Joseph Formanek pFriem Family Brewers Ninkasi Brewing Co. Prairie Artisan Ales
36. Mosaicism 45. Alter Ego 54. Coffee Okie Rated 95 Rated 95 Rated 95 by Michael Heniff by Dan Preston by Joseph Formanek Grist Brewing Co. Tree House Brewing Co. Prairie Artisan Ales
37. Frightened Baby Chipmunk 46. The Discreet Charm 55. Saison Imperiale Rated 95 Rated 95 Rated 95 by Michael Bury by Rodney Tillinghast by Nelson Crowle Call to Arms Brewing Co. Brooklyn Brewery De Proef Brouwerij
38. Brewery Lane: Imperial White IPA 47. On Fleek 56. Decadent Imperial IPA Rated 95 Rated 95 Rated 95 by Dan Martich by Rodney Tillinghast by Michael Heniff Breckenridge Brewery Stillwater Artisanal & Casita Cerveceria Ska Brewing Co.
39. SFY 48. Beatitude Mango 57. Barrel Aged Hibernation Rated 95 Rated 95 Rated 95 by Rick Franckhauser by Richard Wong by Randy Scorby Threes Brewing Council Brewing Co. Great Divide Brewing Co.
40. Jolly Roger Black Lager 49. St. Lupulin 58. The Dweller Rated 95 Rated 95 Rated 95 by Richard Wong by Jason Johnson by Susan Ruud Eddyline Brewing Odell Brewing Co. Green Man Brewery
41.Funkier Pumpkin 50. Humulus Terreux 59. 3rd Anniversary Ale Rated 95 Rated 95 Rated 95 by Rick Franckhauser by Michael Heniff by Joseph Formanek Boulevard Brewing Co. The Bruery / Bruery Terreux Roughtail Brewing Company
42. Stowaway 51. Pace Car Racer 60. La Folie Rated 95 Rated 95 Rated 95 by Dan Martich by Nelson Crowle by Jason Johnson Baxter Brewing Co. Bear Republic Brewing Co. New Belgium Brewing Company
12 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
http://usinger.com/ Top 100 Beers of 2015
61. Twenty Three 70. Poivre Potion 79. One Hop This Time Rated 95 Rated 95 Rated 94 by Tracy Hensley by Michael McGuire by Rick Franckhauser Avery Brewing Co. Terrapin Beer Co. Night Shift Brewing
62. Laimas Kölsch Style Ale 71. Double Vision Doppelbock 80. Gear Up IPA Rated 95 Rated 95 Rated 94 by Randy Scorby by Jason Johnson by Michael Bury FATE Brewing Company Grand Teton Brewing Co. Hopworks Urban Brewery
63. Greenhouse IPA 72. 30th Anniversary Ale 81. Great Lakes Oktoberfest Rated 95 Rated 95 Rated 94 by John C. Tull by Graham L. Barron by Dan Martich Hops and Grain Brewery Bell’s Brewery Great Lakes Brewing Co.
64. Grapefruit Sculpin 73. Tropical & Juicy 82. Ozark Double IPA Rated 95 Rated 94 Rated 94 by Nelson Crowle by Richard Wong by Michael Heniff Ballast Point Brewing & Spirits The Hop Concept Ozark Beer Co.
65. Atrial Rubicite 74. Yeti Imperial Stout 83. Shower Beer Rated 95 Rated 94 Rated 94 by John C. Tull by Michael Heniff by Jim Koebel Jester King Brewery Great Divide Brewing Co. Champion Brewing Co.
66. Black Ops 75. Side Trip 84. Austin Amber Rated 95 Rated 94 Rated 94 by Rodney A. Tillinghast by Jason Johnson by Mike Castagno Brooklyn Brewery New Belgium Brewing Co. Independence Brewing Co.
67. Alter Ego 76. Fayston Maple Imperial Stout 85. The Keel Rated 95 Rated 94 Rated 94 by Jim Koebel by Dan Preston by Sandy Cockerham Smartmouth Brewing Co. Lawson’s Finest Liquids Cape May Brewing Co.
68. Death By Coconut 77. Virgil’s Reserve 86. TW Pitchers Radler Rated 95 Rated 94 Rated 94 by Michael Bury by Michael Heniff by Tracy Hensley Oskar Blues Brewery Grist Brewing Co. TW Pitchers Brewing Co.
69. Grapefruit Shandy 78. Extra Dry 87. Westbrook Gose Rated 95 Rated 94 Rated 94 by Randy Scorby by Rick Franckhauser by Rodney Tillinghast SanTan Brewing Co. Stillwater Artisanal Westbrook Brewing Co.
14 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
https://billings.mobile-promotion.com/FusionService/promotion/Billings?utm_campaign=Visit_Billings_Brewery_ District_Spinner&id=b0d3dd16eb87a4c821f1d96e37ec44b7afb2ae892ecd914196a521f6334b0753 Top 100 Beers of 2015
88. Ol’ Dirty Barrel 95. The Optimist Rated 94 Rated 94 by Richard Wong by Tracy Hensley Belching Beaver Brewing Co. Fort George Brewery
89. Colonel Kernel 96. Invocation Rated 94 Rated 94 by Michael Heniff by Owen Ogletree The Bruery / Bruery Terreux Wild Heaven Craft Beers
90. Wide Awake It’s Morning 97. 30th Anniversary Double IPA Rated 94 Rated 94 by Mike Castagno by Jason Johnson Funky Buddha Brewing Co. Summit Brewing Company
91. VanderGhinste Oud Bruin 98. Sweet Tooth Rated 94 Rated 94 by Jason Johnson by Graham Barron Brouwerij Omer VanderGhinste Tallgrass Brewing Company
92. 8 Hop IPA 99. Belô Petroleum Rated 94 Rated 94 by Richard Wong by Rick Franckhauser Rogue Ales & Spirits Cervejaria Wäls
93. Summer Saison 100. Bourbon Barrel-Aged Gonzo Rated 94 Rated 94 by Graham L. Barron by Mike Castagno Blackberry Farm Brewery Flying Dog Brewery
94. True Blonde Rated 94 by Michael Heniff Ska Brewing Co.
16 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Beer of the Year (tied)
Judge’s Second Opinion by John C. Tull 99 by John C. Tull Frambozen pFriem Family Brewers
There are beers and there are BEERS! This is a BEER! Do you want complexity? How about a blunderbuss of olfactory and tastebud madness exploding straight in your face! OK, now without all the violence… more like a bunch of roses and dandelions (or whatever gentle goodness comes to mind for you) floating out the end of that blunderbuss and tickling all of your sensations. Seriously, this beer packs an incredible diversity of aromas and flavors that challenges your nose and palate to catalog all the excitement playing out in those arenas.
It is difficult to strike a balance between sour and fruit in fruit-based sour beers. Often, a soured fruit beer ends up as dominantly fruit or sour, but the pFriem Frambozen nails balance between those competing characteristics and shows development of other characteristics in addition. Beyond the aroma and flavor complexity, the mouthfeel and balance are equally impressive.
All of this provides a world-class beer experience that is rare and profound. Truly, this is one of the best beers you can get your hands on today. Do not let an opportunity to try it slip by.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 17 Beer of the Year (tied)
Brewer’s Thoughts by pFriem Family Brewers brewmaster and co-founder Josh Pfriem.
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe? makes this a unique beer to pFriem. This beer has been a team effort. The idea of making Lambic-inspired beers at pFriem was a dream of mine What makes this beer truly World-Class? many years before we opened, but our Head Brewer That we put a ton of heart and soul into this beer. We do Gavin Lord has put years of work into getting this everything we can at each point of the process to brew program off the ground. This beer is much more process- this beer traditionally and in a very high-quality manner. oriented than recipe-driven. What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, What sets this beer apart from other examples within mouthfeel, etc.)? the style? The aroma on this beer is so fragrant and dynamic, the Our usage of neutral French Oak barrels from wineries raspberries jump out of the glass. I could smell this beer around us, microflora that is found here in the Hood all day. River Valley, raspberries from Willamette valley all How popular is this beer among your faithful fans? combined with the fact that we are a very modern 2016 was the first year we released it and it was very brewery that makes high-quality lagers and hop-forward popular. We plan to do a single release of this beer beers as well as funky and barrel-aged beers. All these annually. things put together gives a large nod at tradition, but
18 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Beer of the Year (tied)
Judge’s Second Opinion by Dan Preston Every once in a while something amazing comes 99
along, and this blows it by Dan Preston away. This isn’t just the best Double IPA I’ve ever had, its possibly the best King JJJuliusss overall beer. The biggest Tree House Brewing Co. problem with it is that I can’t imagine I’ll ever have the chance to try it again, and if I did, that it will never live up to the first time. Getting to try this blind made for a truly memorable experience. I have high expectations for all of the beers we judge, but you never expect a white whale to end up in your glass.
I think the thing I’ll always remember the most with this beer is its aroma. It was so potent I could smell it before I even saw it. If it wasn’t for the sound of the can cracking open I may as well have thought a fresh bag of hops was dumped in front of me. The freshness and complexity was just truly astounding.
Tree House is an amazing brewery. I’ve unfortunately yet to make the trip, which is borderline sacrilegious for an in-state beer connoisseur, but I know many who regularly make the voyage to this local beer Mecca and have been graced to taste many of their wares. Pretty much everything that comes out of their taps is top notch, and yet the King still stands out mightily among them. All I can think about is getting my next sip of it. Attempting to make a remotely close clone is sitting strongly on my life’s goals.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 19 Beer of the Year (tied)
Brewer’s Thoughts by Tree House head brewer and co-founder Nate Lanier.
Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe? How popular is this beer among your faithful fans? I am (Nate Lanier) - co-founder and head brewer at Tree Extremely popular! It’s also very popular in the brewery. House. We get just as excited to see it!
What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style? Its creamy mouthfeel.
What makes this beer truly World-Class? I think ‘world-class’ is a bit overused these days. That said, I think any beer with a combination of bright flavors, gentle mouthfeel, and pleasantness throughout the glass deserves merit. This beer has all of those traits, and even a bit of je ne sais quoi, in my opinion.
20 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Second Runner Up
Judge’s Second Opinion by Joseph Formanek
I first reviewed Prairie Artisan’s Bomb back in the spring when I had mentioned this would be a great winter 98 warmer. I only wish I still had some bottles of this brew by Joseph Formanek now that winter has arrived in full force here in the Upper Midwest so that I could personally evaluate that claim! I have had the privilege to review much of Prairie Bomb! Artisan’s line of brews, and all of their beers demonstrate Prairie Artisan Ales a high level of creativity and an apparent love for the craft of brewing delicious and remarkable beverages. Some stood out more than others, and, for me, Bomb rose to the top.
Personally, I am a true fan of the RIS style, particularly as brewed by U.S. Craft Breweries. I remember experiencing a variety of Russian Imperial Stouts during travels to the West Coast in the 1990s and at the 2001 AHA National Conference in LA, and I somehow lived to tell the tale! There are at least 2 thoughts on the style from people whom I have questioned. One group is looking for a somewhat clean, moderately malty, high alcohol, medium-bodied beer that is an easy drinker for the ABV. Others, of which I freely admit I am one of, look for a full- bodied, complex chewy beverage that can be savored and fully appreciated while pondering life’s mysteries sitting by the fireplace. For me, recipe complexity is an important part of the experience, with layers lying upon layers of flavors. Bomb accomplishes this quite remarkably, taking a solid rich RIS base and building a skyscraper of flavors upon that.
As mentioned in my review, Bomb’s amazing complexity delivers a massive explosion of delicious flavors and aromas that linger in the memory well after the drink is done. This is a Specialty beer with a RIS base, and drinking this brew is akin to drinking a chili chocolate coffee milkshake with a huge thick chewy body. A moderate vanilla flavor marries well with all of the flavors present. There is a touch of heat in the middle and finish, along with a moderate alcohol warmth, delivering layered mouthfeel factors to the equation. Incredibly, with all that is going on in this brew, there is an amazing marriage of flavors that add up synergistically.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 21 Breweries of the Year
2016 was a big year for craft beer. The torrid growth of the industry continues unabated and with it comes new ideas, new hot beer commodities as well as new breweries.
To celebrate the year that was, we’ve put together our list of Top 100 Beers of 2016 -- featuring a whopping 34 beers that scored a 96 or above, The Beer in Review -- compiling some of our most populous styles for the past year and, last but not least, our 2016 Breweries of the Year.
How We Award We look at the top three highest-scoring beers (as rated by our judging panel) for each brewery in the calendar year.
We then consider how many of the three fall into the 100 to 96: World Class category and the 95 to 91: Exceptional category. Without further ado, The brewery with the most world-class beers followed by here are the 2016 the most exceptional beers is awarded the Brewery of the Year. Breweries of the Year.
If two or more breweries have the same number of world- class and exceptional beers, then the brewery with the highest point total wins.
In the event of a tie, a fourth reviewed beer is counted as a tiebreaker.
22 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
https://bellsbeer.com/brands/54-OatsmobileAle Brewery of the Year pFriem Family Brewers Two World Class Beers & One Exceptional Beer Total Score: 291
Highest-scoring beers: Frambozen -- 99, pFriem Wit -- 97, pFriem Pilsner -- 95
We are thrilled to announce that pFriem Family of subtlety, nuance and mouthfeel -- as close to Brewers of Hood River, Oregon was awarded two perfection as one could find. world-class beer reviews, including a coveted and exceedingly rare score of 99 (only 1 of 4 scores of 99 in Falling in behind Frambozen’s excellence were pFriem our history), making it our 2016 Brewery of the Year! Wit, a flawless representation of the classic Belgian Witbier style and pFriem Pilsner, an expertly crafted Speaking of history, pFriem will certainly go down German Pils. as purveyors of delightful and delicate craft brews, painstakingly created with the love and care that only It goes to show just how amazing our craft beer scene a family can bestow. As our first-ever Brewery of the is when you can have 3 different beers with wildly Year, pFriem pulled ahead of the competition with an disparate, globe-trekking styles, all made by the same impressive collection of masterfully executed beer small brewery in the Pacific Northwest. What a time to styles, including its 99-scoring raspberry Lambic, be alive. Frambozen, which was an aromatic tour-de-force
24 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 1st Runner Up
Jester King Brewery Two World Class Beers & One Exceptional Beer Total Score: 289 Highest-scoring beers: Ol’ Oi -- 97, Boxer’s Revenge -- 97, Atrial Rubicite -- 95
Jester King in Austin, Texas is widely regarded as one most popular and sought after beers, Atrial Rubicite. of the best breweries around when it comes to wild This Wild Specialty Beer was a titillating blend of funk, and sour beers. With a massive, frequently employed sour and fruit, and the smaller bottle sizes only added coolship collection and a vast array of stylistic to its mystique. Never stop being you, Jester King. experiments, Jester King keeps its nerdy brethren gasping for limited-release 750 mL bottles as if they would never drink again.
Coming in at #2 for our 2016 Brewery of the Year, Jester King had a pair of high-scoring sours: Ol’ Oi -- an amazing Oud Bruin made with Jester King’s local microflora -- and Boxer’s Revenge -- an American Wild with a Bretty kick. Both of these beers scored a 97.
To round out the brewery’s high-scorers is one of its
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 25 Second Runner Up
A very Brewing Co. Two World Class Beers & One Exceptional Beer Total Score: 287 Highest-scoring beers: Vanilla Bean Stout -- 96, Expletus -- 96, Twenty Three -- 95
Our final Brewery of the Year for 2016 is Avery Brewing hand, is a wacky, tequila barrel-aged cherry sour that Co. in Boulder, Colorado. As a mainstay of the craft has a zesty, tangy blend of flavors that will bring zing to beer scene for over two decades, Avery has carved any drinking session. itself a notable niche for crafting a solid range of year- round brews while also employing one of the most Rounding out Avery’s high-scorers was its most recent experimental and boundary-pushing barrel-aging anniversary beer, Twenty Three, celebrating the programs in the U.S. As evidence, our two highest-rated eponymous anniversary with a fascinating dark Brett beers from Avery were both products of the barrel- Beer featuring a full mouthfeel and hefty malt bill. aging department: Vanilla Bean Stout and Expletus, As is its wont, I’m sure 2017 will bring many more which both scored a 96. fascinating creations for Boulder’s premier barrel herders. Vanilla Bean Stout is a boozy and round Imperial Stout with a velvety mouthfeel and just the perfect traces of vanilla and barrel character. Expletus, on the other
26 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Honorable Mention
Prairie Artisan Ales One World Class Beer & Two Exceptional Beers
Total Score: 288
Highest-scoring beers: Bomb! -- 98 Funky Gold Simcoe -- 95 Coffee Okie -- 95
Bear Republic Brewing Co. One World Class Beer & Two Exceptional Beers
Total Score: 286
Highest-scoring beers: Mach 10 -- 96 Apex -- 95 Pace Car Racer -- 95
Great Divide Brewing Co. One World Class Beer & Two Exceptional Beers
Total Score: 286
Highest-scoring beers: Espresso Oak Aged Yeti -- 97 Barrel Aged Hibernation -- 95 Yeti Imperial Stout -- 94
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 27 The Beer in Review
As an addendum to our Beers of the Year, we have compiled a list of some of the most populated styles of 2016, as well as some other interesting categories. Cheers and Happy New Year!
Top 10 American IPAs
Best IPA of 2016 - Santilli 6. Alter Ego Night Shift Brewing Tree House Brewing Co. Rated 97 Rated 95
2. Moirai IPA 7. Stowaway FATE Brewing Company Baxter Brewing Co. Rated 96 Rated 95
3. Rare Trait 8. One Hop This Time Cerebral Brewing Night Shift Brewing Rated 96 Rated 94
4. Duet 9. Gear Up IPA Alpine Beer Company Hopworks Urban Brewery Rated 96 Rated 94
5. Suicide Squeeze 10. The Optimist Fort George Brewery Fort George Brewery Rated 95 Rated 94
28 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 The Beer In Review
6. Mosaicism Top 10 Double IPAs Grist Brewig Company Rated 95 1. King JJJuliusss Tree House Brewing Co. 7. Watermelon Dorado Rated 99 Ballast Point Brewing & Spirits Rated 94 2. Mach 10 Bear Republic Brewing Company 8. Rollcage Red Rated 96 Motorworks Brewing Rated 93 3. Hopslam Bell’s Brewery 9. Komodo Dragonfly Black IPA Rated 96 Upland Brewing Co. Rated 93 4. Decadent Imperial IPA Ska Brewing Co. 10. Park Rated 95 Fort Point Beer Company Rated 93 5. SFY Threes Brewing Top 10 Specialty IPAs Rated 95 1. Big Guns 6. Apex Fort George Brewery Bear Republic Brewing Company Rated 96 Rated 95 2. Brewery Lane Series: Imperial 7. Ozark Double IPA White IPA Ozark Brewing Company Breckenridge Brewery Rated 94 Rated 95
8. Nectar & Knife 3. Grapefruit Sculpin Triple Crossing Brewing Co. Ballast Point Brewing & Spirits Rated 94 Rated 95
9. 8 Hop IPA 4. 3rd Anniversary Ale Rogue Ales & Spirits Roughtail Brewing Company Rated 94 Rated 95
10. 30th Anniversary Double IPA 5. Pace Car Racer Summit Brewing Company Bear Republic Brewing Company Rated 94 Rated 95
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 29 The Beer In Review
Top 10 Barrel-aged Beers Top 10 Dark Beers
1. Parabola 1. Bomb! Firestone Walker Brewing Co. Prairie Artisan Ales Rated 97 Rated 98
2. Maple Tripple 2. Porter Culture Lawson’s Finest Liquids Hops & Grain Brewery Rated 97 Rated 97
3. N10 Imperial Blended Ale 3. Espresso Oak Aged Yeti Ninkasi Brewing Co. Great Divide Brewing Co. Rated 97 Rated 97
4. Pogue’s Run Porter 4. Stone Farking Wheaton Flat 12 Bierwerks W00TStout Rated 96 Stone Brewing Co. Rated 97 5. The Dweller Green Man Brewery 5. KBS Rated 95 Founders Brewing Co. Rated 96
6. Vanilla Bean Stout Avery Brewing Co. 6. Double Vision Doppelbock Rated 96 Grand Teton Brewing Co. Rated 95 7. 20 Year Storm Heavy Seas Beer 7. Jolly Roger Black Lager Eddyline Brewing Rated 96 Rated 95
8. BA Tavern Ale 8. On Fleek Big Boss Brewing Co. Stillwater Artisanal Rated 96 Rated 95
9. Black Ops 9. Fayston Maple Imperial Stout Brooklyn Brewery Lawson’s Finest Liquids Rated 95 Rated 94
10. Ground Control 10. Belô Petroleum Ninkasi Brewing Co. Cervejaria Wäls Rated 95 Rated 94
30 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 The Beer In Review
Top 5 Funky Beers Top 5 Collaborations 1. Bouket 1. Boxer’s Revenge 6. Vintage 2013 Trillium Brewing Co. Jester King Brewery Brouwerij Rodenbach & De Proef Brouwerij Rated 97 Rated 96 Rated 97
2. Bouket 7. Tartanium Berliner Weisse 2. On Fleek Trillium Brewing Co. Grist Brewing Co. Stillwater Artisanal & Casita & De Proef Brouwerij Rated 96 Cerveceria Rated 97 Rated 95
8. Beatitude Mango 3. Funky Gold Simcoe Council Brewing Co. 3. Juiceless Prairie Artisan Ales Rated 95 Wicked Weed Brewing & Creature Rated 95 Comforts Brewing Co.
9. The Discreet Charm of the Rated 93 4. Humulus Terreux Framboisie The Bruery Brooklyn Brewery 4. Stillwater is Nothing Big Bunny Rated 95 Rated 95 is Everything
Stillwater Artisanal & Arizona Wil- 5. Twenty Three 10. La Folie derness Brewing Co. Avery Brewing Co. New Belgium Brewing Co. Rated 93 Rated 95 Rated 95 5. The Partner Ships Series: Maine Beer Co. Top 10 Sours Heavy Seas Beer Rated 92 1. Frambozen pFriem Family Brewers Rated 99
2. Wild Sour Series: Flanders Red DESTIHL Brewery Rated 97
3. Alexander Brouwerij Rodenbach Rated 97
4. Ol’ Oi Jester King Brewery Rated 97
5. Expletus Avery Brewing Co. Rated 96
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 31 Mr. Brettanomyces, Part I
STORY BY: CHRIS GUEST
He lurks where you’d least expect – perching in the characteristics had been isolated at the Kalinkin Brewery rafters of your brewery, watching. He moves almost in St. Petersburg in 1889, and again ten years later at weightlessly, soaring effortlessly with the lightest none other than Guinness’s aptly named “Chemist’s breath. He consorts with the insect kingdom, most Laboratory.” Speculation from renowned British beer notably fruit flies, who transport him without question, historian Ron Pattinson points to a desire not to go public and worms his way into your wort, finding refuge in in order to corner the market, as Mr. Brett could be the dank crevices of your whiskey barrel or gradually coaxed into adding interesting qualities to export beers inching along your pipes until he finds his prey. He during secondary fermentation. These may be the basis guzzles your sweet nectar, leaving a reeking wake of for the surprising fruity qualities of foreign export stouts questionable by-products in your beer. Yet, by many we see today. he is loved. Who is this mysterious, shadowy figure and what does he want with our ales? What does Mr. Brett do to beer? Whatever he pleases. If he isn’t treated very delicately, he’ll stomp all over your He is Mr. Brettanomyces. The most notorious yeast in the brew and leave it a spoiled, funky mess. Acetic acid, one game. Aficionados heap praise at his ovoid or sausage- of his main byproducts, is a souring compound, which shaped feet while the uninitiated run for the nearest can be detected by aromas of vinegar, green apple and clothes-pin to bar their noses from his odor. even paint.
His derives his name from a British scientist, N. Hjelte Even when treated well, his work can be questionable, Claussen, who was researching contaminants in British but the renaissance of Belgian beer in America has netted beer for Carlsberg. Claussen published his findings him his own BJCP style, simply titled Brett Beer. The around 1903, and coined the “brettanomyces” moniker, hallmarks of Mr. Brettanomyces’ work include dry, fruity which is Greek for “British yeast.” and funky notes, which can range from low to “straight out of the manure patch,” increasing with age. For the This may not have been the first time Mr. Brett purposes of this style, funk is not intended to stray too far was caught in the act, though. A yeast with similar into dung territory. His style is often lightly tart, an aspect
32 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Our pal Mr. Brett takes many forms, such as Brettanomyces bruxellensis.
of work for which he will not take credit (tartness can be friends, lactobacillus and pediococcus, or blend him generally attributed to other souring agents often found in with regular yeast. the same styles, like Oud Bruin and Lambic). Lacto and Pedio aren’t exactly the same breed – they’re Aromatic notes can vary widely, depending on both bacteria, while Mr. Brett hails from the yeast, but whether the beer is brewed fully by Mr. Brett, or if sit them down and they’ll get along like old friends. brewer’s yeast is also used, and to what degree the Sometimes. When times are good, Lacto and Brett beer is hopped. Individual flavors may be hard to pick can work some real magic – Berliner Weisse is a good out, but they will undoubtedly transport you to Mr. example. They get their tang from Lacto and Brett paints Brettanomyces’ favorite place: the barnyard. You can the delicate fruity funk into its wheaty depths. expect mild notes of wet hay, often mingled with mild smoky and earthy aromas. Fruit is also a dominant Pedio may as well be Mr. Brett’s more volatile drunken characteristic, more prominent in Brett’s younger uncle. When they get together Pedio can really rile up Mr. days, to the tune of tropical fruit, stone fruit and citrus. Brett, fanning his flames and helping to produce strongly However, Mr. Brett’s personality can be subdivided acidic styles like Lambics and Flanders Reds. We’ll get into multiple sub-types, all of which will produce back to the escapades of the “three musky beers” further different end-results in both flavor, aroma and color. down the line. You just can’t put this guy into a box. There are currently four scientifically recognized While Mr. Brettanomyces doesn’t like to be classified, “personalities” (species) of Mr. Brettanomyces. The most if you put him side-by-side with the same beer brewed commonly used are B. bruxellensis and B. anomalus, without him, his work will be decidedly drier and more also known as B. claussenii and B. lambicus, respectively. attenuated, with a lighter body and less depth and funk Their use of aliases stems from a puzzling fact – once than Belgian wild ales, a style which he will participate in thought to be distinct species, they were more recently when he’s in more of a Jackson Pollock-type mood. found to be genetically identical. Mr. B is, after all, the same person. Nevertheless, the two produce different But you can’t rush him. Monsieur Brett, compared to results in beer. standard saccharomyces (Satchmo?), takes his sweet time. What brewer’s yeast can do in days to weeks can The other two, B. custerianus and B. naardenensis have take Brett months to years. Here’s what the King of yet to find purchase in commercial brewing, and not Beer Writing, Michael Jackson, had to say about our just for their less-than appetizing names. They simply mercurial protagonist: haven’t proven to provide reliably tasty flavors – unless, of course, you’re into “goaty” notes, which naardenensis “Saccharomyces is like a dog and Brett is like a cat. It’s a is said to produce. little less predictable. It’s going to do its own thing; it’s not going to come when you call it and sit when you say sit. There’s much to be learned of Mr. Brett still. Perhaps If you can respect its individuality and suggest rather than that’s why he’s so intriguing. Like the most inspiring of dictate what it does in your fermentation, it can reward the artists and criminals, he is as liable to pour your dreams brewer and the drinker.” down the drain as he is to generate a spectacular vision of flavor. Join us next time for a more intimate look As MJ states, Brett is very hard to control, which is at the life of this most intriguing man-yeast, in all his why it’s often better to let him hang around with his triumph and disgrace.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 33 34 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 St Bernard’s A Tail of Licker Barrels and Heroism The Story Behind the Most Interesting Man’s Best Friend in the World
STORY BY: JIM DYKSTRA
St. Bernard’s have a way of getting our attention. resulting in the gentle giants we love today. Their gargantuan stature and calm demeanor has contrib- By 1750, St. Bernard’s would be constant companions uted to their larger than life persona, even grabbing one of marroniers, using their abilities to help smell and dig St. Bernard a starring role in the movie Beethoven. But out travelers who had become lost or buried under snow. the story behind these gentle giants is far more gripping Eventually, they’d just start sending St. Bernard’s out in than the 26th highest-grossing film of 1992, involving life small packs without human accompaniment. Able to dig and death, romance (well, breeding) and yes… alcohol. upwards of ten feet after catching a scent, packs would split when a person was found – some staying with the Bred to Save Lives wanderer, and others returning to alert hospice workers. Our story begins in the snowy peaks of the Alps St. Bernard’s are credited with saving over 2,000 lives between Italy and Switzerland. The Great Saint Bernard between 1750 and 1897, when the last documented recov- pass is a 49-mile path, and quite treacherous save for a ery was made (other reports list 1955 as the most recent few summer months. The route got its name from Saint rescue, but no documentation was found). A 12-year old Bernard de Menthon, who founded a hospice and mon- boy was licked awake and led to safety after becoming astery to aid travelers around the year 1050. There also lost and nearly freezing to death. exists a Little St. Bernard Pass, and a Little Saint Bernard Hospice nearby. Truth to the Legend? It would be a few centuries before the St. Bernard What of the famed barrel around the neck? Leg- breed came into play. Between 1660 and 1670, monks end has it that these dogs would carry beer or brandy at St. Bernard acquired the progenitors of the heroic in order to warm wayward wanderers. We believe this lineage. The dogs were mastiffs, descended from stout to be false. Asiatic breeds meant for war, and slightly smaller than Though alcohol can cause a warming sensation in the behemoths we see today. Their fur was also shorter the belly, it actually makes you colder by causing your and their tails longer, but these alpine hounds laid the blood vessels to dilate. Blood rushes to the skin’s surface, genetic groundwork for the future of the breed. which is why you may blush and feel hot, but overall St. Bernard’s weren’t specifically being bred as hero body temperature declines rapidly. dogs yet. At the time, they were more “civilian” dogs, More importantly, St. Bernard monks have a source ready to bark, play and cuddle at a moment’s notice. It for the legend. The barrels we see were a conjuration of didn’t take long for marroniers, who were servant-guides Edwin Landseer, an English painter. In 1820, the 17-year of the area, to note how easily these dogs could traverse old produced his most enduring work, poetically titled the terrain, or how they used their keen sense of smell Alpine Mastiffs Reanimating a Distressed Traveler. The and their ability to sense avalanches. Over time, they image shows two Saint Bernard’s standing over a fallen would be selected and bred specifically for these traits, traveler, one barking, and one licking the traveler’s hand.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 35 Larger Than Life As the breed’s fame grew, so did the desire to own a St. Bernard. They would be exported to England in the mid 19th century and bred with mastiffs to create an even larger variety. As is often the case, many were bred for no practical purpose other than to be large, resulting in environments where “the dogs became so [large] that Edwin Landseer’s famous painting, seen above, they had difficulties in getting from one end of a show ring to another.” spawned the legend of the “licker” barrel. A famous Bernard of the time, Plinlimmon, weighed- (Photo courtesy Wiki.) in at 210 pounds, and a New York Times article from 1895 speaks of Major F., purported to be 8 feet 6 inches in length – which would easily be the longest dog ever recorded. Despite how farfetched it sounds, it may have The licker has a barrel around its neck, which Landseer been possible. The world’s largest dog today is a Great claimed contained brandy – a stroke of imagination he Dane around seven and a half feet long, and at 200 spared the title of his painting. Perhaps because it’s just pounds, it’s still growing. a wonderful thought, the image became canon and to this day St. Bernard’s are associated with barrels. In true All Things Pass capitalistic fashion there’s even a custom dog-barrel col- St. Bernard’s are no longer widely used for search lar company, but let the historical record show: barrels and rescue. What was once a dog’s duty has now been around the neck are a myth. passed on to a more modern servant – the helicopter. The mobility and bird’s-eye view helicopters provide en- Barry: The Hero We Need hance the rescue method, but the nose of the St. Bernard Lest you be disappointed at the lack of heroism remains unmatched, and their legacy lives on. As of 2004, hither told, meet Barry der Menschenretter, or Barry for Great St. Bernard hospice maintained an 18-dog roster short. Menschenretter is German for “people rescuer.” for “tradition and sentiment”. Not long after, the nearby Born in 1800, Barry would become the foremost author- Barry Foundation would purchase them to breed and ity on extricating humans from alpine peril. In his 14-year train for dog sports like carting and weight-pulling, both tenure, he would save 40, including an especially unbe- of which were once work-related activities – there are lievable feat of valor in which he discovered a young reports of Bernard’s being trained to pull a device that boy asleep in a cavern of ice. After warming the boy with would turn a spit, among other tasks. loving licks, Barry maneuvered him onto his back and Though their glory days may have passed, an annual carried him to the safety of St. Bernard hospice. So the celebration takes place at the Little St. Bernard Pass, story goes… where Barryhunds and owners gather for a dog show and Whether or not our intrepid People Rescuer was parade to commemorate the centuries of sacrifice made able to carry the boy bodily might not matter so much as by the breed. the fact that he did save dozens, and left a legacy which The legend of St. Bernard’s serving us booze may endures to this day. Until 1860, the entire Breed was have been proved false, but it’s a testament to how much known as “Barryhunds” to some, predating the use of St. of an impact the breed has made. People are willing to Bernard, which would come into fashion around 1865. suspend disbelief, because St. Bernard’s have proved Today, you can find Barry’s body preserved in Swit- themselves to be both human in their emotional capacity zerland’s Natural History Museum. Interestingly, his skull and superhuman in their abilities. What’s a little beer or has been reshaped to represent the modern breed, and brandy in a cask-collar if they can carry a child bodily to for better or worse, a barrel has been added to his collar. safety through a blizzard?
36 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
http://www.willamettevalleyhops.com/ Organic Beer: The Natural Choice Is organic beer a trend, or a vision for the future?
STORY BY: JIM DYKSTRA
Organic goods can be polarizing. Are they actually brewer, and where organic brewing fits into the craft healthier? Does the quality merit the price increase? community at large. Why are they so expensive in the first place? Add in the commodity level of organic goods to what is The Good Old Days already a full-to-bursting commodity market – that of If you think about it, all beer used to be organic. There craft beer, and you have what some see as a recipe for were no chemical pesticides and fertilizers, and no certifi- disaster. cations to distinguish oneself from “regular” products. Of course, those days are gone and to be organic is a distinc- Many people see it differently. For some, it’s about tion. So what does it mean? health. For others, it’s about honesty and integrity. While health may not be the main reason beer con- USDA standards for organic beer are no different than noisseurs choose craft, honesty and integrity are key. they are for organic food: Beer ingredients must be grown In this piece, we’ll see what it means to be an organic without toxic pesticides and synthetic fertilizers in soil
38 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Bison Brewmaster Daniel Del Grande stares hoppily at Kermit, which takes over three pounds of 100% organic Simcoe hops per batch. Photos courtesy Bison Brewery
free from chemicals for at least three years, and genetical- But in the craft beer community, idealized and educated, ly modified ingredients (GMO’s) are not allowed, accord- you’d be hard pressed to find a small, organic brewer cack- ing to Organicbeerfest.org. Within those rules, there are ling while counting coins from confused buyers. For most, three levels of classification: it’s about integrity, and control over the product.
100% Organic: As the name suggests, the product Part of organic beer is about respect for the environ- uses 100% organically produced ingredients, excluding ment – organic farming is renewable farming. Man-made added water and salt. Any processing aids used must fertilizers and pesticides increase production to what is be organic. essentially an unnatural level. Soil becomes less viable over time, and may erode. It’s also about health, as toxic Organic: Organic means the product uses at least 95% chemicals used for agricultural production can accumu- organic ingredients, excluding added water and salt. late in water supplies and harm workers that come in contact with them. Made with Organic Ingredients: The product uses at least 70% organic ingredients, excluding added water and It’s also about people. Organic brewers support local salt. The product may contain organic and non-organic farms, and supporting local farms means supporting your forms of the same ingredient, like hops and malts. community, which creates more jobs. Craft brewing was sold to the masses as authentic and local. As more of This sort of classification can get dicey. An uneducated these brewers ascend to a higher echelon of production, consumer could be misled, in the same way “natural” we’ll see which breweries remain true to their communi- products can still contain antibiotics, growth hormones, ties and which will source from the lowest bidder. It’s a and other similar chemicals. A wily marketer can utilize choice that limits production and increases overhead, but certain classifications to their advantage. for the idealistic few, dreams trump dollars.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 39 Founder and President Tom Costa is part of the all-veteran team behind Dr. Jekyll’s “Bio Beer.” Photos courtesy Jekyll’s Craft Beer
For some organic brewers it’s about doing classic brews chemical fertilizer, and by 1990, word spread to the US. with as purely sourced, local ingredients as possible, in Though the Brewers Association doesn’t treat organic order to leave as little of an impact on the planet as pos- beer as its own category, it’s currently almost an $80 mil- sible. Bison Brewery out of Berkeley, California is a clas- lion market in the US alone. sic example, all-organic since its inception, it was the first brewery in the world to earn B-Corp certification, in 2010. You may not always be able to taste a difference in or- B-Corp certification requires meeting rigorous standards ganic goods, but often you can. In my experience, there’s of social and environmental performance, accountability no comparison between organic fruit and standard super- and transparency. market GMO-fare – organic’s got half the size and twice the flavor. In a world blinded by its desire to consume as For others, brewing organic is just the start. Take Dr. much as it can as fast as possible, those who are brewing Jekyll’s Craft Beer, a Californian brewer that has become organic are setting an admirable example that anyone the “world’s first and only non-GMO, vegan friendly, craft could emulate, and everyone benefits from. beer made with organic hops and malt that is brewed with super foods in a synergistic way.” This brewery As environmental concerns become increasingly appar- packs its wares with “superfood” ingredients, like the ent, and the burden of land management falls to the in- Beer Belly Kolsch, which layers acai berry, maqui berry, dividual, organic is more relevant than ever. Yes, they’re green tea, green coffee bean, raspberry ketone, and slightly more expensive, but with good reason. That price grapefruit fiber on top of its organic Perle and Cascade increase represents more work for your neighbor, and hops and organic malt bill. It’s part health, part beer, and tastier, healthier ingredients in your glass. all business-savvy. The craft movement has prided itself on authenticity, but “We’ve taken three high growth markets – craft beer, or- has yet to fully recognize and embrace organic industry and ganic and nutraceuticals – and combined them into one the ideal it champions: leaving land that can produce beer product,” said Tom Costa, president & CEO at Dr. Jekyll’s long after we’re gone. The craft vs. macro dynamic has been in a Fortune interview. diluted by acquisitions and growth, but one that will never change is business values over plain old value. If you see The first organic brewery was founded in Germany, in an organic beer on tap, give it a try. Even if you can’t taste a 1980. Pinkus-Mueller brewery in Muenster went organic difference, the knowledge that you’re doing your fellow man in reaction to declining quality of barley malt grown with a solid will make it go down that much sweeter.
40 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
www.newhollandbrew.com/finder Sonoma Calling Connoisseur’s Corner
STORY BY: Jonathan Ingram / Photos by: Max Whitaker
There’s always been the temptation to drink and write. return to that day, I intend to crack a bottle of Sonoma For years, I’ve resisted. As much as I’ve enjoyed the Pride and will proceed to drink this rare elixir through- drug-infused work of New Journalism junkie Hunter S. out this rendition in order to re-introduce an extraordi- Thompson or visiting the literate, moonshined swales of nary California experience, to seek out that maelstrom Faulkner’s unpronounceable county in Mississippi, there in reverse, if you will, that transported me upward as if was the acknowledgement that my own oeuvre was rare- in a land-borne waterspout. ly advanced through anything other than coffee, some- times cigarettes when I was younger and the occasional Just how I came across this rare bottle is a story beer if I’m reviewing a story that I’ve already written. To ne’er to be told, or at least held in confidence until say I write for beer is true in many respects, but generally this gray beard reaches the bellybutton. There was a the ’twain doesn’t meet in the actual act of writing. redhead, with piercing and knowing Sphinx-like eyes of blue involved – until she called me “Sir” and then, But this story is different. It’s about recalling an experi- well, anyhow. ence that can only be described as transporting. To
42 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 I’m being honest as a mockingbird We already had on tap a sumptuous inspire the moisture gathered at the calling like a blue jay when I say selection of locally cured meats, top of my head before it rose gently that this story will unfold at the cheese and pickled sweet things to greet the fog. crack of the bottle top. It is a tale of with a rainbow of beers slaked terroir and loving, where fear and across the top in a mythical ar- Yes, the rest is just a gentle blur, loathing have been replaced by cher’s bow converted to a bridge of although I remember Carmelized meticulous crafting. samples. Like the miracle of fog, this Banana Jam with Creamy Peanut bridge to the river of liquid inspira- Butter and then a Sweet Hazelnut We should have known this would tion, held in ponds of deliciousness, Stout Jam, and a cream-headed be an extraordinary trip when the forecast an excellent adventure. Armstrong Stout. I honestly think it Magic Bus pulled up to a place in was the peppers that were spiked. Santa Rosa completely enshrouded It being lunchtime, I ordered the Soon the front of my face opened in a heavenly, cool fog. This might peanut butter and jelly special, on a hinge near my ear to allay a be a slight miscalculation and pro- foregoing the wisdom of a BLT, mild, simmering heat and there was jection, however, because the Magic which was made with the same a vast likeableness presiding over Bus had stopped at six breweries locally cured meat that had just the land. Or perhaps this was a T- the day before and then flew off to done an extraordinary number shirt I saw memorializing our host, Denmark for a nightcap in the city on our tongues and brains as the the Fogbelt Brewery, only I was by the bay (i.e. Mikkeller’s place) aroma brought home the sumptu- time-traveling ahead to walking the before collecting us once again for a ous message of the land. So too the streets of Sacramento, where I saw morning ride to a lovely, fog-shroud- beers brought forth locally grown one of my colleagues wearing it. ed brewery. Cool, really cool, if you wet hops, Chinook and Cascade, know what I mean about the fog in addition to regular entries of This was a previously unknown and everything, due to its light, lov- the dried variety. And, well, it was experience. It demonstrated what ing touch of moisture. Or maybe it good, this marriage of the land, the can happen when the terroir meets was all in our heads, which were so sun, the fog and the spirit of the not- the kettle and glass, the nouriture in need of at least a mild analgesic. too-distant stately angelic redwoods embraces the id, the ego and the watching over it. superego, feeding them all in a sin- We went inside this little brewery gular charge. It was a gift from those and pub reminiscent of a chocolate When the sandwich arrived in quar- who know the spirit of this land to shop hosted by Juliette Binoche and ters, several of the party-goers tried those who would like to. And, well, I almost expected to see a bohemian to grab it via laser optics and other thank you. named Johnny Depp twirling his such tricks while I fended them off mustache inside. As we entered, with my HST memorial cigarette As we retreated to the Magic Bus I we were bathed in wet hops, were holder, brandishing it like a stiletto. could barely contain my anticipa- allowed to ride up and down on the Back, back ye swabs who don’t tion of the closing ceremony that hop harvester in all its green glory, know how to order the daily spe- lay ahead, whose secrets I had and generally ran amok as those cial! The first quarter consisted of learned after the Sweet and Spicy who travel by Magic Bus are mi- fresh locally made bread, Pineapple Pepper Jelly was activated by the raculously allowed to do. Exhausted Cilantro Jam paired with Almond Fresco Del Norte. There were two before noon, but gamely ready for Butter and a side of Lost Monarch stops for more of the mead that we another round once the clock ticked Wit, both of which disappeared now know as beer, evocative cre- past drinking time, we gathered at quickly. I think it was the second ations of one-off flavor and romance the table. It was near one of the land- quarter, a Sweet and Spicy Pepper from Plow, where the one-of-a-kind ings of the Eiffel Tower somehow im- Jelly with Chunky Peanut Butter beers and equipment and bar are ported from the rainy mists of Paris that had the secret ingredients, acti- literally hand made, and then a and installed as an iron arbor for the vated by the perfectly tuned Fresco walk to Cooperage. Here a ceiling- bar below it. Although, although…it Del Norte. Hot, hot, nut-meaty, mounted propeller, whose props did look to be locally sourced -- like creamy, sharp and sweet! Then the measure 35 feet apiece, swept us the food, hops and beer. IPA to soothe the savage tongue and to the hop fields, where we hov-
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 43 Pliny the Elder draws a crowd, but the locals seem to prefer Blind Pig.
ered and drank a pale ale strangely The Magic Bus never rests (thank bowed and swept their branches named Ol’ Curty Bastard, since he the heavens!) and despite my aside to let me pass. seemed like an awful nice guy to addled state of spiritual lift I was us. While engulfed in God’s hay, aboard as we headed for an evening And do forgive me. This all hap- from this height, we could see the meeting with Pliny. Only to discover pened so fast I never opened that wort boiled at Plow making its way it was all good. Especially the Blind bottle of Sonoma Pride after merely toward the Cooperage in a classic Pig and the bottle of Sonoma Pride, placing it briefly against my fore- cooperation of one small brewer a distant relative of Pliny, whose head for a contact high and now with another via a small trailer. golden, bretty contents mysteri- must put it back in the cellar until ously appeared in our glasses. the urge for another trip to Santa As the Magic Bus next climbed the Rosa and Sonoma County arises. day’s last hill (but the night was still Maybe it was a bit too much, be- young!) the sea came rolling toward cause I missed the bus and imag- our feet as we disembarked, awed ined myself stranded, and then by the fog rolling over the low-lying decided to head for the nearest coastal mountains, poised to crash bar and have a beer. Only I was like a thunderous sunset wave surfing on alabaster foam between before slipping through the trees. giant redwoods leaping out of Cool, very cool. And moist. the gentle fog before they gently
44 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
www.tripstocherish.com WINTER STYLE RECOMMENDATIONS Think outside the Bocks with these “alt-wintry-night” beer styles.
STORY BY: JIM DYKSTRA
Wintry climes are prime for big boozy imbibe. We’ve chosen two styles that may not warmers, but that doesn’t mean you have immediately come to mind when you think of to limit yourself to standard styles. There snow shoes and log cabins, but will have you are a million ways to skin an arctic snow rosy-cheeked and warm-spirited nevertheless. fox, and limitless choices of winter cheer to
46 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 White IPA citrus, banana and a bit of tropical fruit will meld with yeast or spice notes of coriander and pepper. You First up is a style that blends two continents of beer may even detect a hint of clove. It’s the best of the tradition together in one glass, for results that won’t fill Old World and the New. you up quite as much as a Russian Imperial, but goes bold and sharp on the flavor. I’m dreaming of a White Expect a warm golden, hazy appearance and a big IPA – but it’s not just like the one you used to know. frothy head, perfect for clanking in a festive pub atmosphere, or sipping round the fire. The flavors will This is essentially a Franken-style, a mash-up of Amer - mirror the aroma, stone-fruity notes of apricot and ican IPA and Belgian witbier made with the modern citrus notes will be engulfed in a tangy swirl of spice, beer-lover in mind. Its fruity, spicy and refreshing, but followed by a crisp, dry and bitter finish that will en- lighter in color and body than an American IPA with ergize you amidst the cacophony of Old Man Winter’s the spice and/or yeast additions found in a typical wheezing and electric logs crackling. Belgian wit. Vital Statistics: OG: 1.056 – 1.065 IBUs: 40 – 70 FG: The aroma will be moderately ester-tastic, and every- 1.010 – 1.016 SRM: 5 – 8 ABV: 5.5 – 7.0% thing you’d expect from both of these fragrant styles:
Three to Try:
New Belgium Accumulation: This is likely to be a gateway White for many, as it’s easy to find and marketed as a seasonal. The billowy pour calls to mind snow days of yore, as does the wintry imagery on the bot- tle. Nugget and Centennial make for a resinous offering, but it’s tempered with a bit of wheat, and a nice dose of Mosaic and Amarillo dry-hopping accumulate for a big, festive snowy punch.
6.2% ABV, 55 IBU
Sweetwater Whiplash White: A personal favorite, this is bold and bit- ter, more on the IPA side than Belgian wit, but the body isn’t as super sweet and heavy as a similarly hopped might be. They don’t skimp on the hopping, throwing in Bravo, Ahtanum, Centennial, Cascade, and dry- hopping with three or four more. You’ll get a light, biscuity malt sweet- ness followed by a biting bitter finish. It’s as if your parents disposed of the Christmas tree by brewing it into a piney elixir.
6.3% ABV, 55 IBU
Sierra Nevada Snow Wit: This beauty is more a wintry wit than bitter hit, though it doesn’t skimp on variety. The seven “dwarf” hops used to make it rotate every year, but there’s nothing Dopey about this beer. The name comes from how the hops are grown – shorter hedgerows rather than tall trellises, which make for denser, flavor-packed hop cones. The only mainstay is the Summit hop varietal, along with the coriander wheat and orange peel you’d expect to see in a Wit.
5.7% ABV, 45 IBU
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 47 Olde Ale Old Ales draw roots from England, with their attri- Now for something completely different – Old Ale. It’s butes placing them firmly between strong and rich a malt-centric blend of caramel, toffee, dried fruit and barleywines, and more roasty, balanced and less al- molasses with notes of ester and alcohol similar to coholic porters. Flavor and strength will vary accord- sherry or port wine. Usually aged and somewhat mel- ing to ingredients, which can include adjuncts like low, hop aromas are minimal to non-existent, putting molasses, treacle, maize or flaked barley for added this style on the opposite end of the flavor spectrum. sweetness and alcohol. The diacetyl found in Scotch ales will not be present, but they do make good gifts, It’ll light your fire with its higher alcohol content, but or bottles to share. the beer itself will usually skew towards dark and opaque, with minimal head from age and alcohol. What this style lacks in hops it makes up for with rich malt character, taking you on a tour of roast, choco- late, sweet and fruit in various order. Often, wood- aging or blending can incorporate aspects of sourness or Brett, but malt will always be at the fore.
Three to Try:
Alesmith Olde Ale: In British tradition, notes of currants and dried fruit marry with complex dark sugars, balanced by subtle, traditional English hops. This ale comes ready to enjoy, but it can also be aged for 20+ years!
11% ABV, 25 IBU
Great Divide Hibernation Ale: Billed as Colorado’s original strong ale, Great Divide has been cranking out this classic since 1995. It’s still around for a reason – it’s delicious and age-able, though each batch comes with three months of age on it to mellow the alcohol and blend the flavors. Hops will be more apparent in this one, but generous dry- hopping keeps the bitterness from being overpowering. The recipe var - ies each year, as do the seasons, but it’s guaranteed to have you hiber - nating peacefully after just one. Drink with care!
8.7% ABV (varies according to year), IBU: Around 45
Wicked Weed Old Fashioned: Everybody loves a good Old Fashioned, and it’s still a recipe for success in beer form. Old ale is the base style, with sweet cherries, orange zest and four months of whiskey barrel aging to round out the remarkably similar flavors of one of the world’s most tried-and-true cocktails. You may have to trade around for this fel- low, as it was a specialty brew, but its strength and warming heat fresh off the line means that many will be cellared, mellowing with a twinkle in their glass eyes. This is perfect for the whiskey lover in your life.
ABV: 10%, IBU: Around 20
48 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
www.st-feuillien.com Beer Review
The highest-scoring beers from our panel of judges. Meet our judges at BeerConnoisseur.com/judges
Judging Process Our reviews are conducted in a single-blind tasting format. This method provides the best opportunity to rely on facts and to avoid favoritism, ensuring a level playing field for all brewers. It serves both the industry and the consumer to have unbiased and objective scores from qualified experts. To best implement this approach, the Judges Review is open to those with established experience as a Master Cicerone® from the Cicerone® Certification Program or as a judge that has accomplished the rank of National or higher from the Beer Judge Certification Program. In the single blind tasting format, judges are presented with a chilled, properly poured beer and given its style category. Scoring is then done on the following basis using a 100-point scale:
Score Breakdown 100 to 96: World Class – You need this beer in your life. 95 to 91: Exceptional – Don’t hesitate. 90 to 86: Very Good – A brew to savor. 85 to 75: Average – Somewhat unimpressive. 74 and below: Not Recommended – Just walk away.
50 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Aroma: Flavor: Overall 99 23 / 24 40 / 40 Impression: by John C. Tull Appearance: Mouthfeel: 20 / 20 Frambozen 6 / 6 10 / 10 pFriem Family Brewers
Judge’s Notes in the midpoint are what drives the excitement The aroma of this fruit lambic is a menag- that this beer brings to my palate. The mouthfeel erie of olfactory delights: dominating raspberry, is unsurprisingly dry, but the aforementioned woody pith, hints of tartness, sweetness, and a acid provides a good balance. All told, this is an little barnyard for good measure. The color is an amazing beer that has no problem expressing the interesting pale burnt orange/red with some haze raspberry fruit along with the wild side of yeast and almost no head leftover from the outpour- that makes for an incredible explosion of flavors ing of gaseous bubbles continually rising from and aromas. Do you like anything sour? How the bottom of the glass. The flavor is strongly about fruit? Or are you not sure? If you said yes raspberry fruit and pithy/woody extractions on any of those, find this beer and give it a try. from the seeds. Beyond the fruit, which is by no This one is a world class fruit lambic! means overbearing, some interesting wild yeast funk can be found that has a lot more going on than your basic Brettanomyces strain. Acidity comes through in the finish, but those wonder- ful wild flavors combined with a fruity tartness
97 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by Susan Ruud 23 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: Appearance: Mouthfeel: 20 / 20 Boxer’s Revenge 6 / 6 10 / 10 Jester King Brewery
Judge’s Notes Wow – This Strong, Barrel Aged Sour beer is nearly perfect – It pours dark amber in color and is rich, strong, sour, sweet all rolled together. It is extremely well balanced and is sour but not overly acetic, full bodied with hints of vanilla, oak and cherry, and makes you want to just keep sipping it forev- er. Although this beer is high in alcohol it is so blended in you barely notice it. Definitely a treat to the senses! 97 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by John C. Tull 22 / 24 39 / 40 Impression: pFriem Wit Appearance: Mouthfeel: 19 / 20 pFriem Family Brewers 6 / 6 10 / 10
Judge’s Notes is medium-light with some creaminess that fades to a The aroma of this Witbier presents vanilla and relatively dry, surprisingly long-lasting finish. All told, orange-peel zest undertones, a hint of sulfur, slight this is a wonderful example of a Witbier that delivers perfumes from hops and yeast esters, a touch of surprising complexity in a very quaffable package. If coriander, and a sweet wheat malt breadiness that all you seek a beer that delivers a lot without blowing combine to provide a very nice olfactory presenta- out your palate with hops, make a bee line for this tion. As the sulfur dissipates, the other, more desir- Witbier. It truly exemplifies the wonderful qualities of able aromas are left to interplay with no distractions. this uniquely Belgian beer style. The color is pale gold with only a hint of haze from yeast or proteins from malted and unmalted grains. The most notable flavor is from the grain profile: wheaty, bready, and very slightly sweet. The mild coriander and vanilla flavors provide good balance and dimension to the grains. A very slight tartness is present also, whether from yeast, bitter orange peel or both. Hop flavors are not obvious. The mouthfeel
Aroma: Flavor: Overall 97 24 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: by Rick Franckhauser Appearance: Mouthfeel: 19 / 20 Santilli 6 / 6 10 / 10 Night Shift Brewing
Judge’s Notes dry finish with lemon zest and pine resin lin- The aroma provides a perfectly balanced gering long into the aftertaste. Medium body citrus trio of lemons, oranges and grapefruits. with moderately high carbonation which Pine and pineapple also make an appear- helps push all the flavors and aromas to the ance and are accompanied by a touch of fore. Decidedly bitter with big hop flavors sweet malt. Everything is super fresh and that are never harsh. A showcase for new bright. Golden color with a slight hop haze world hops at their finest. and topped with a creamy white head laces the glass as you go and lasts to the end. At first taste you know you are holding a world class IPA. Pronounced bitterness right up front with absolutely no astringency or harsh edges. The citrus combination is just as balanced and delicious in the flavor as the aroma promised. The pine and tropical fruits also appear with a touch of grainy malt. Clean
52 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 97 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by Dan Preston 24 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: Appearance: Mouthfeel: 19 / 20 Maple Tripple Ale 6 / 6 10 / 10 Lawson’s Finest Liquids
Judge’s Notes experience. Now about all it could use is to be a This beer pours a very deep copper with touch drier, but there is so much complexity to mahogany hues, a huge dense off-white head and the sweetness that is there. great clarity. The aroma is intense and complex with rich vanilla & oaky liquor notes with lots of dark fruit (plums, cherries, raisins, currants) and melanoidins. There is also some light chocolate notes and a barrage of sweetness – toffee, deep caramel, brown sugar, maple, honey, molasses. The flavor is similar to the aroma but even more intense towards the caramel, maple and sugary notes. It is full bodied with a creamy, smooth mouthfeel despite the alcohol. Bottled in June 2015, time definitely did this one well. I had this one fresher before and the alcohol was much more apparent which made for a less pleasing
96 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by Michael Heniff 22 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: Tartanium Berliner Appearance: Mouthfeel: 20 / 20 Weisse 6 / 6 10 / 10 Grist Brewing Co.
Judge’s Notes The aroma of this Berliner weisse pres- ents moderate wheaty and grainy malt with a light citrusy fruit and a hint of sweet fruit reminiscent of prickly pear fruit. Upon the first sip, the prominent sourness is readily evident! Moderately puckering, the flavors of wheat and a lime citrus compliment the clean lactic sourness. The finish is lightly bitter allowing the clean sourness to cleanse the palate to a refreshing, crisp, sour fin- ish. The delicate esters and the clean lactic sourness provide for a wonderful, refreshing sour beverage. No woodruff or raspberry syrup required! 96 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by Sal Mortillaro II 23 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: Tavern Ale Appearance: Mouthfeel: 19 / 20 Big Boss Brewing Co. 6 / 6 10 / 10
Judge’s Notes and “nutty” lactones take a back seat to whiskey notes in This Barrel Aged Ale pours a deep amber color just the right amount. This beer sits in the mouth with with hazy clarity. A fine-bubbled white head quickly a medium-low body with a restrained low carbonation. dissipates and leaves ring and lacing around the edge of There is noticeable alcohol warmth, but this is not out the glass. An aroma of barrel qualities of oak character of character of a barrel-aged beer; the warmth is pleas- and vanilla lactones are prominent in the nose followed by ant and appropriate, not hot or solventy. Slight tannic a malt character which is perceived as low English style qualities from the barrel tend to dry this beer out in the continental malts. There is no perceivable hop aroma in finish. Overall, this was a very interesting beer with a this beer. Alcohol and whisky are noticeable but fleeting barrel aged American twist on a beer with English quali- in the aroma and adds a layer of complexity. On tasting ties; it is an excellent use of the barrel while still retaining the beer, malt sweetness is perceived as medium with the showcase of malt. This beer is a lovely savoring and English style biscuit, caramel, and slightly nutty notes. sipping beer and an interesting combination of the two Moderate-low bitterness comes from the barrel qualities cultures. I found it to be a very well balanced beer overall as well as hops, though hop flavor is lost to the use of the with a great and harmonious interplay of malt, barrel, and barrel. Fruity yeast esters are present in the flavor and are whiskey. This was a very enjoyable beer and could easily low and apricot like. The barrel aged character of vanilla be enjoyed sitting in your local establishment of choice over conversation with friends.
Aroma: Flavor: Overall 95 22 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: by John C. Tull Appearance: Mouthfeel: 19 / 20 pFriem Pilsner 6 / 6 10 / 10 pFriem Family Brewers
Judge’s Notes examples of the style. The beer delivers a The aroma of this beer is quite clean with clean and crisp flavor, appropriately assertive notes of grainy malt and noble hops (herbal and bitterness, and good noble hops and pilsner earthy). The color is a light straw, exceptionally malt flavors and aromas that one hopes to find bright, with a white head that persists as a thin in a German Pilsner. The fresh character of this layer over most of the surface. The flavor is led example is worth seeking out if you desire a with a grainy malt that is somewhat cracker-like; high quality example of the style and hanker for herbal noble hop flavors take over and carry a good session beer with European flair. through the finish. Bitterness from the hops is assertive relative to the simple malt profile and very clean fermentation. The mouthfeel is medium light, and the carbonation lends a touch of astringency that somewhat accentuates the hop bitterness in the finish. Overall, this is a very good German Pilsner without any oxida- tion concerns that plague so many imported
54 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Aroma: Flavor: Overall 95 22 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: by Michael Heniff Appearance: Mouthfeel: 19 / 20 Mosaicism 6 / 6 10 / 10 Grist Brewing Co.
Judge’s Notes watery or overly bitter and astringent; this This single hop Mosaic session IPA session IPA works on all accords measures in at 4.6% abv and 52 IBU. The aroma is very prominently Mosaic hops with aromas of citrus, tropical fruit, mango, and a bit of dankness. The hop flavor is slightly cleaner with citrus, peaches, mangoes, and herbs with a background of nutty malt. The finish is moderately bitter with a lingering nutty malt and citrusy and mango hop char- acter. The hop prominence is definitely IPA strength yet the light malt character manages to cut through the hops to provide a back - bone despite being a smaller beer. Many session IPAs tend to come off as thin and
95 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by John C. Tull 23 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: Frightened Baby Appearance: Mouthfeel: 19 / 20 Chipmunk 6 / 6 10 / 10 Call to Arms Brewing Co.
Judge’s Notes wheat may have been used. Again, a fruit qual- Acidic aromas with lemon and orange ity is quite evident that provides a sensation of zest and background fruit esters dominate this sweetness in addition to the apple- and pear-like Belgian Specialty Ale. Some light spice, whether fruit flavors. In some ways, the fruitiness and from yeast or other influences, is detectable sourness come across as almost cider-like in the underneath the more obvious aromatic layers. tradition of a spontaneously fermented cider. The complexity is very welcoming with nothing The mouthfeel is medium-light, and a slight dry- clashing in the nose. The color is light straw ing sensation lingers through the finish. Overall, with a very light haze, and there is no head this is an excellent beer, particularly if you are other than a few momentarily clinging bubbles fond of sour ales. The combination of fruit char- on the glasses edge as new bubbles slowly rise acteristics and some wild yeast contributions to replace them. The flavors are very much on a very simple grain background—without the like the aroma: a tangy lemon and citrusy zest distraction of hops competing for the limelight— with a firm, but not overbearing, tart sour- makes this a wonderful beer that should be ness. Wheat malt flavors lend a bready, almost tried and enjoyed. chewy, character suggesting some unmalted 95 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by Sal Mortillaro II 22 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: Brewery Lane Series: Appearance: Mouthfeel: 19 / 20 Imperial White IPA 6 / 6 10 / 10 Breckenridge Brewery
Judge’s Notes that is notably Belgian with a spicy clove like phenolic and This Imperial White IPA pours a deep gold color a hints of bubblegum character. This phenolic character with slightly hazy clarity. A lathery, bone white head is compliments the apparent dry hopping of the beer. This persistent during the entire beer. The aroma of this beer beer is balanced slightly towards the malt though the hop is very forward, consisting of moderate, general grainy profile becomes apparent in the after taste. The beer’s base malt sweetness and a moderate-high citrus aroma body is medium with ample carbonation. There is a that blends well with lemon grass notes. There is a noticeable alcohol warmth, which is slightly tamed by the sublime spicy, phenolic yeast character in the aroma that sweetness of the beer. Overall, this is a fun and interesting is appropriate for the white IPA style. The flavor consists beer which hits the highlights of the combination of the of moderate-high malt sweetness with moderate grainy two styles (Witbier and Imperial IPA). White IPA’s are a base malt flavor. The hop bitterness is moderate border- relatively new style (since late 2010) and I expect to see ing moderate-high. The hop flavor is moderate and is more breweries produce them. This beer would pair well comprised of tropical and citrus like hops; the lemongrass with a rich bleu cheese where the malt sweetness would character melds very well with the hop flavor profile. balance out, while the phenolic spice would also accentu- There is a slight grassy note, which is pleasant and not ate, the pungency of the cheese. overdone. This beer has a yeast fermentation character
94 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by Dan Preston 23 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: Fayston Maple Appearance: Mouthfeel: 17 / 20 Imperial Stout 6 / 6 10 / 10 Lawson’s Finest Liquids
Judge’s Notes rich, chewy mouthfeel that is creamy & smooth This beer pours pitch black, completely with just a hint of alcohol. It’s a great RIS, but opaque and devoid of light, with a deep tan I’m not sure I would notice the maple of coffee head that sticks to the glass with legs & lace. if it wasn’t listed. Not sure how old this one was, The aroma is chock-full of deep roasted malts, but impressively drinkable for the ABV. coffee, cocoa, espresso, & lightly burnt toast. The coffee isn’t overbearing and is well melded making it hard to tell the real thing from roast malt. Under all the roast malt is dark caramel with light notes of raisins & dark fruit (plums mostly) and low if any maple. The flavor is simi- larly very roast forward - rich mocha ice cream, espresso, dark chocolate syrup – with lots more caramel sweetness and dark fruits (black cherry, plums, raisins, currants) than the aroma as well as a little bit of black licorice. It has a
56 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 94 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by Michael Heniff 22 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: Appearance: Mouthfeel: 18 / 20 Virgil’s Reserve 6 / 6 10 / 10 Grist Brewing Co.
Judge’s Notes wine barrel-aged Belgian ale with a multitude This beer is a barrel aged version of their of complex characters that interplay well. The Third Ring Belgian Strong Ale that is aged in sourness is light and complimenting instead of Cabernet Sauvignon wine barrels for a year. being on the forefront like many wild beers. I The aroma is an abundance of cherry, red expect that this beer will age well and possibly grape, and prune fruit paired with vanilla and develop even more complexity over time. Buy toasted oak; a light bready malt compliments one to drink now and many to cellar for years the fruit and wood while a light sourness adds to come. complexity. The sourness becomes more prominent accenting the deep, fruity sherry- like flavors. The bready malt, toasted oak, and vanilla complement each other well. The bitterness is appropriately low allowing the rich and complex flavors with flavors of dark cher- ries and vanilla with a light sourness lingering long on the palate. This is a very interesting
93 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by Rodney A. Tillinghast 23 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: Juiceless Appearance: Mouthfeel: 18 / 20 Wicked Weed Brewing 5 / 6 9 / 10
Judge’s Notes This American-style IPA features very sturdy aroma notes of mango and pineapple, with a little pine dank mixed in. I picked a little alcohol in the mix as it warmed up. It settled thickly in the glass, after a mountain- ous head over its dark yellow hue. Upon sampling, the citrus hop flavor came to the forefront, with a medium firm bitterness that was smoothly executed with some malt crackery undertones. The ale finished fairly- dry, with neutral fermentation characteristics and medium carbonation---hop bitterness lingered, but not in an acrid or astringent manner. In all, a solid American IPA that strikes a balance between fruity hop flavor and bitterness. 93 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by Michael Heniff 22 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: Appearance: Mouthfeel: 17 / 20 Grist Okotberfest 6 / 6 10 / 10 Grist Brewing Co.
Judge’s Notes This dark golden, crystal clear beer sports a huge, finely beaded, off-white head that would certainly look great in a one liter mug. The aro- ma exudes melanoidins with bready and toasty malt and a surprising but welcomed herbal and spicy hops. The flavor adds in a touch of sweet- ness to reinforce the bready malt. Again, an unusual but welcomed spicy and herbal hops compliment the malt well. When judged to style, this beer is too light in color for a Märzen, too full-bodied for a Festbier, and too hoppy for both. But, when judged for overall enjoyment, this is a well brewed malty beer with plenty of noble hops to balance.
Aroma: Flavor: Overall 93 23 / 24 38 / 40 Impression: by Rodney A. Tillinghast Appearance: Mouthfeel: 18 / 20 Athena Paradiso 5 / 6 9 / 10 Creature Comforts Brewing Co.
Judge’s Notes This beer presented itself a muddled yellow below a huge, frothy head. I sensed substantial levels of fruit in the nose—mango, pineapple, and a hint of lemon. It featured a crisp, citrus tartness in the flavor, with good levels of acidity and fruit flavor. Its substantial measure of carbonation and dryness in the mouthfeel both aided in its drinkability. The solid tartness of the beer coupled with some funk and tropical fruit flavor makes this a good daily drinker, one that would couple well with a variety of cuisines.
58 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 93 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by Michael Heniff 23 / 24 37 / 40 Impression: Appearance: Mouthfeel: 18 / 20 Future Tripping 6 / 6 9 / 10 Barley Forge Brewing Co.
Judge’s Notes be not overly sharp. This is sure to be a joy Measuring in at 9.25% abv and “100+ for every hop head! Enjoy! IBU”, this clear, golden-colored (6 SRM) hop bomb begins with an abundance of resin, pine, mango, and citrus aroma from copi- ous amounts of Simcoe and Amarillo hops. The flavor showcases a similar hop charac- ter with a slightly aggressive, yet still quite delightful, edge. Light pale and caramel malt flavors lend support to the hops but never obtrude the hop dominance. The finish is moderately bitter as just enough malt sweet- ness exists to allow the “100+ IBU” to not be too sharp or harsh. This is an aggressive Double IPA with a resiny, piney, and citrusy hops character with just a touch of malt as to
Aroma: Flavor: Overall 93 23 / 24 37 / 40 Impression: by Sal Mortillaro II Appearance: Mouthfeel: 18 / 20 Arjuna 5 / 6 10 / 10 Anthem Brewing Co.
Judge’s Notes touch of ethyl alcohol is apparent in the after taste a few This Wit pours a deep gold color with cloudy clarity. seconds after the swallow. Right after the swallow this beer A foamy bone colored white head quickly dissipates but balances towards the malt, however finishes fairly dry and leaves a ring around the glass. The aroma consists of mod- favors a nice lingering bitterness. In the mouth, the beer has erate malt sweetness with a light doughy and tart wheat a medium-light body with ample carbonation which tickles character. There is no noticeable hop character, but a mod- the tongue. A very subtle alcohol warmth suggests this beer erate-low bitter orange peel, low perfumy coriander, and being on the higher end of the acceptable style range. The slight spicy note are apparent and intertwine with the malt body and use of wheat makes this a creamy and pleasant helping to balance the aroma. In the flavor, malt sweetness feeling beer. Overall, though a slight persistent bitterness is moderate-low with a nice bready-wheat flavor. Hop bitter- which is not to style lingers after the swallow, this is easily ness is low with a lightly floral hop flavor. The main source overlooked by it’s overall very well done, easy drinking, of perceived bitterness appears to come from the use of and refreshing character. As the hot days of summer are bitter orange peel as opposed to hops. A very pleasant and here this is a beer which easily quenches the thirst. The not overpowering coriander note adds a layer of complex- orange peel character in beer would pair well with fruit ity. There is a very light spicy note from the yeast as well crepes, blood orange sorbet, or a citrus panna cotta. as a very light sour note from the use of wheat. A slight Aroma: Flavor: Overall 92 22 / 24 37 / 40 Impression: by Randy Scorby Appearance: Mouthfeel: 18 / 20 North State IPA 6 / 6 9 / 10 Wildcard Brewing Company
Judge’s Notes dry finish. This IPA will certainly grab the The initial sniff grabs the drinker with typical northwest hophead, but will appeal big tropical fruit hop aroma of pineapple and to any IPA lover regardless of where you mango, with a background note of mixed live. stone fruit. A light floral alcohol note and light bready maltiness chimes in as it warms to support the complex hop character. As you enjoy the aroma, you will note the light amber color, good clarity and a long lasting white head. The hops shift in the flavor, taking on a prominent grapefruit pith and resin character. A light earthiness develops as it warms along with a light bready, nutty maltiness that supports the hop flavor. High hop bitterness and a low alcohol warming emerge mid-palate and linger into a fairly
Aroma: Flavor: Overall 92 22 / 24 37 / 40 Impression: by John C. Tull Appearance: Mouthfeel: 17 / 20 pFriem IPA 6 / 6 10 / 10 pFriem Family Brewers.
Judge’s Notes in the flavor, another by-product of the hops. This IPA has strong citrus charac- Some malt sweetness balances the hops ter along with some tropical fruit aroma. appropriately for an American IPA. Into the Grapefruit and passion fruit dominate with a finish, alcohol heat and spice are revealed slight pithy/woody quality in there as well. as it becomes slightly astringent and dry, The malt aromas are heavily masked by mitigated by relatively assertive carbonation. the hops, but grainy sweetness and a touch The body is medium. This IPA fits the bill for of caramel come through. The balance is those seeking a big, hop fruit expression in definitely hop tilted, but it is quite appro- a relatively strong ale. This is a very well- priate for an American IPA. A pale copper made IPA with absolutely no faults in the color and exceptional clarity characterize fermentation or balance for this style. I can the appearance. A white, slightly fluffy head highly recommend it for the lover of IPAs or lingers on the beer leaving a lacy, off-white anyone wanting to try a big, hoppy beer. foam trail on the glass edge when swirled. The flavor is both strongly bitter and fruity from the hops. A woody character is present
60 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 92 Aroma: Flavor: Overall by Dan Preston 22 / 24 36 / 40 Impression: Appearance: Mouthfeel: 19 / 20 Sip of Sunshine 6 / 6 9 / 10 Lawson’s Finest Liquids
Judge’s Notes but surprised in the drop-off in hop potency This beer pours a deep golden color like for only 3 weeks since canning which let a bit orange blossom honey or a sunbeam. It has a more malt sweetness come thru than usual. faint haze and a lasting off-white head. The aro- Just another reminder drink your IPAs as fresh ma is very citra-esque with lots of tropical fruit as possible. notes- passionfruit, guava, pineapple – orange, some lemongrass, but also a bit catty. Beyond the hops there is also some grainy malt with a toasty character and a hint of light caramel. The flavor is similarly full of hops, very tropical with some floral & citrus (grapefruit, orange) as well. The hops also lend lots of bitterness, but not to an offensive level, which leads to dry finish with a bit of malty sweetness. I’ve had this beer a number of times and it’s a bit unmistakable, yet different each time. This time was still great,
Aroma: Flavor: Overall 92 24 / 24 34 / 40 Impression: by Dan Martich Appearance: Mouthfeel: 20 / 20 Matilda 4 / 6 10 / 10 Goose Island Brewing Co.
Judge’s Notes out. It could easily be consumed without pick- This beer pours golden copper, it is hazy ing up the Brett character. This medium-light with an off white head that’s fluffy in texture bodied beer has the proper carbonation level, and thick. Visually, medium sized bubbles and although there’s a slight alcoholic warmth rise to the surface at an average speed. The the creaminess rounds it out. The astringency aroma has toasty, light caramel, and fresh baked is low and quite possibly from the Brett notes bread malt qualities with very low pine/citrus that are pleasant. This is a well balanced beer hops. There’s also some medium-low grainy toward the malty side, without too much hop or malts as it warms with a very low tartness. The Brett character. Drinks more like an American esters are represented as spicy, and red apple Amber than an American Pale Ale. The Brett like. The flavor is of a medium-high toast with dries this beer out but not too much that you’d some caramel sweetness. There’s also a low notice if it wasn’t mentioned. amount of citrus/piney hops with a short bitter- ness. This beer finishes semi-dry, with a short aftertaste resembling bread crumbs. No big Brettanomyces flavors to further dry this beer Beer Review
Very Good (86-90) 90 | Yclept, Threes Brewing by Rick Franckhauser 90 | Patio Smasher, Sun King Brewing by Pat Mulloy 90 | Anthem IPA, Anthem Brewing Co. by Sal Mortillaro II 90 | Super Session #2, Lawson’s Finest Liquids by Dan Preston 90 | Stuck At The Tunnel, Grist Brewing Co. by Michael Heniff 90 | Albino Stout, Grist Brewing Co. by Michael Heniff 90 | Sneakn’ Lindsey Through The Alley, Call To Arms Brewery by John C. Tull 89 | Jungle Boogie, Marz Community Brewing by Mike Castagno 88 | Grapefruit Special Edition, Warsteiner by Sandy Cockerham 88 | Unreliable Narrator, Threes Brewing by Rick Franckhauser 88 | Hospitali-Tea, The Unknown Brewing Co. by Dan Martich 88 | Half Cycle IPA, Flat 12 Bierworks by Rick Franckhauser 88 | Fruitless, Champion Brewing Co. by Jim Koebel 88 | King Tett, Grist Brewing Co. by Michael Heniff 88 | Guava & Starfruit Tartanium, Grist Brewing Co. by Michael Heniff 87 | Liminal Moment, South County Brewing Co. by Rick Franckhauser 87 | Snaggletooth Bandana, Solemn Oath Brewery by Sandy Cockerham 86 | Cherry Busey, Sun King Brewing by Pat Mulloy 86 | Nu-Tropic, Stillwater Artisanal by Graham L. Barron
Average (75-85) 85 | Pistolero Porter, Payette Brewing Co. by Nelson Crowle 85 | Upside Down Blonde, Flat 12 Bierworks by Rick Franckhauser 81 | Lucky U IPA, Breckenridge Brewery by Sal Mortillaro II 80 | Cucumber Kolsch, Flat 12 Bierwerks by Rick Franckhauser 80 | Dream Crusher, Deep Ellum Brewing Co. by John C. Tull 80 | Nitro Vanilla Porter, Breckenridge Brewery by Sal Mortillaro II 80 | Mango Mosaic, Breckenridge Brewery by Sal Mortillaro II 80 | Goose Island IPA, Goose Island Brewing Co. by Dan Martich 76 | Sofie, Goose Island Brewing Co. by Dan Martich
62 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
https://bearrepublic.com/beer/hop-shovel Brewer Q & A For beers that receive a score of “Excellent” or above (91+), we’ve asked the brewer a few questions regarding that beer’s origins.
Frambozen – pFriem Family Brewers – 99 Rating Responses from co-founder and brewmaster Josh Pfriem.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? This beer has been a team effort. The idea of making Lambic-inspired beers at pFriem was a dream of mine many years before we opened, but our Head Brewer Gavin Lord has put years of work into getting this program off the ground. This beer is much more process-oriented then recipe-driven, and Gavin has done a wonderful job of harnessing all the aspects of this beer and making them come together.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? Using neutral French Oak barrels from wineries around us, microflora that is found here in the Hood River Valley, raspberries from Willamette valley, and that we are a very modern brewery that Josh Pfriem, Co-Founder and Brewmaster | Photo courtesy pFriem Family Brewers makes high-quality lagers and hop-forward beers as well as funky and barrel-aged beers. All these things put together gives a large nod at tradition, but makes this a unique beer to pFriem.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? With all our beers we just name them what they are. Frambozen is Dutch for Raspberry.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” Although this would be a dynamic desert island beer, I would prefer more of a day-to-day drinker then this beer.
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Perfumy fresh raspberries, jammy, rose petals, floral, prickly,and tantalizing.
BC: Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer? The first raspberry Lambic I ever had was at Drie Fonteinen in Beersel, Belgium. This beer blew my mind with its tart, tangy, fresh and bright raspberries while finishing prickly and refreshing. That beer gave me a deep thirst and love for this style of beer.
BC: What’s a good food pairing for this beer? Cheese-mascarpone, teleme, stracchino, and sharp fresh goat cheese.
64 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
www.unibroue.com www.redbrickbrewing.com
http://avbc.com
http://terrapinbeer.com www.breckbrewpub.com Brewer Q & A
Santilli – Night Shift Brewing Co. – 97 Rating Responses from head brewer Joe Mashburn.
Joe Mashburn, Head Brewer | Photo by Tim Oxton
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? This beer was developed through a different series of beers called Morph. We slowly moved towards this final recipe based on customer feedback.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? We love the combination of soft malt backbone and the fruity, piney character from our hops. We think they combine to make a really nice experience.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? Santilli is the name of the street our brewery is on, so it seemed fitting for when we finally crafted our flagship IPA.
BC: What’s a good food pairing for this beer? We recommend either a spicy pork sausage or nice, aged cheddar.
66 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Brewer Q & A
Maple Tripple Ale – Lawson’s Finest Liquids – 97 Rating Responses from founder Sean Lawson.
Sean Lawson, Founder | Photo Courtesy Lawson’s Finest Liquids
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? I did.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? It’s all Maple … all the time! This is a very special, “once a year” beer. Every drop of liquid in the bottle is sourced from maple trees and it is brewed using concentrated maple sap, replacing water in the beer. It spends a full year aging quietly in maple liquor barrels from Saxton’s River Distillery.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? It is a triple strength maple brew that clocks in at 12% abv.
BC: What’s a good food pairing for this beer? It pairs phenomenally with bacon and maple glazed donuts. It is also an exquisite pairing with cave aged blue cheese- it tastes like a maple blondie (brownie).
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 67 Brewer Q & A pFriem Wit – pFriem Family Brewers – 97 Rating Responses from co-founder and brewmaster Josh Pfriem.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? This was one of pFriem’s original core beers that we came to market with when we opened. I made the original recipe for this beer, but with all our beers we take a team approach to them and are constantly changing them. Max Kravitz, our Quality Control and Lab Manager, keeps an extra special watch on this beer, he is always challenging us to make this beer better and better. It has been fun to watch this beer grow and change. It was a great beer in the early days, but it is fun to try to make it better each time we brew it.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)?
The beauty of this beer is the nuance of all these Josh Pfriem, Co-Founder and Brewmaster | Photo courtesy pFriem Family Brewers flavors. Making Wit is like making Pilsner, everything has to work together in harmony or the beer just doesn’t work. I love how this beer is full and creamy on the palate, yet finishes dry and effervescent.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? With all our beers we just name them what they are. In this case its a historical style “Wit,” so the beer is simply named Wit.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” This would be towards the top of the list. It has all the key elements that I want out of a desert island beer: drinkable, dynamic, flavorful, and when you get finished you want another one. Although it fits all the key points, there is one other beer that we brew that would be my go-to...
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Cloudy and opaque. Spritzy, spice, and fresh. Smooth and Creamy.
BC: Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer? On my first trip to Belgium, my wife and I were touring the country by bike. We drank so many good beers on that trip, but tasting fresh, full-flavored Wits in Belgium was a game-changer for me. Wit is one of the most complex and dynamic beers that you drink that›s around 5 percent ABV.
BC: What›s a good food pairing for this beer? Fresh shucked Oysters and steamed Manilla Clams.
68 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Brewer Q & A
Tavern Ale – Big Boss Brewing Co. – 96 Rating Responses from co-founder and brewmaster Brad Wynn.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? I came up with the recipe.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? I like the way the aroma says Bourbon but the flavor melds beer, Bourbon and biscuit flavors together really well.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? The name is derived from my take on what an American brewer would make to serve in an English Tavern.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” It makes for a great desert island beer because it straddles that perfect balance between bitter and sweet and is heavily hopped early in the boil so it ages very well. It also brings together beer and Bourbon Brad Wynn, Co-Founder and Brewmaster | Photo Courtesy Big Boss Brewing Co. seamlessly in one package.
BC: What’s a good food pairing for this beer? We recommend either a spicy pork sausage or nice, aged cheddar.
BC: Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer? This is the 1st beer I made in North Carolina and is an interpretation of a Christmas beer I made at my first brewing job at Wild Goose in Cambridge, Maryland. The first iteration did not have Bourbon but that addition has taken it to a new level, which includes greatly increased sales.
BC: What’s a good food pairing for this beer? This beer pairs particularly well with roasted meats, especially game.
Brian Strumke - Founder & Owner of Stillwater Artisanal
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 69 Brewer Q & A
Frightened Baby Chipmunk – Call To Arms Brewing Co. – 95 Rating Responses from proprietor and head brewer Jon Cross.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? One of the best things about Call to Arms is that we collectively brainstorm new beers and which direction to take. The final recipe writing is done by me, but only after numerous discussions amongst our owner/management team. Some of our best ideas stem from creative chats accompanied by a round of pints.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer? My favorite aspect of this beer is the delicate balance of flavors Jon Cross, Proprietor & Head Brewer | Photo By Nathanael Roberts Photography and aromas. The subtle funkiness and tropical fruit provided by the Brettanomyces clausenii pairs beautifully with the D›Anjou pears to create a dynamic drinking experience. As this beer warms slightly in the glass, you›ll notice a serial transition between layers of fruity esters with a very gentle malt backbone throughout.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? We often derive beer names from silly, sometimes ridiculous movie quotes. This name came from «Talladega Nights: The Ballad of Ricky Bobby». I›ll leave it up to you to find when and where that line was said. Grab a beer while you are at it!
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” Throw a cocktail umbrella in the glass and this would definitely be my desert island beer. It›s bursting with tropical refreshment and extremely easy to drink.
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Deliciously fruity with notes of pineapple, pear and Brett funk.
BC: What›s a good food pairing for this beer? Much like a crisp white wine, this beer pairs best with seafood and a light pasta dish.
70 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Advertisement
www.latisimports.com/beer-finder Brewer Q & A
Mosaicism – Grist Brewing Co. – 95 Rating Responses from brewers Rob Kevwitch, Nate Wannlund, Steve Nolan and Tyler Swaim.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? Tyler Swaim and the brew team at Grist.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? We love both, the flavor and the aroma of this beer. The aroma is a great punch to the senses with serious fruit, citrus and tropical notes. The flavor is the same way in that it is balanced very nicely with the bitterness.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? Mosaicism is a cross between science and art; playing on the name of the hop, the elegant style of art and the biology side. We love to base names off of science terms since we are a science based and background brewery. Mosaicism is the property or state of being Brewers (left to right): Rob Kevwitch, Nate Wannlund, Steve Nolan, Tyler Swaim composed of cells of two genetically different types.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” Yes because of so many reasons. It is light in color and body which makes it very easy to drink since the days would probably be pretty warm on this island. It has great aroma and flavor that make this beer easy to drink multiples in one sitting. Best part, it is a session beer at 4.5 percent ABV so it will keep you hydrated when clean water is not easily accessible at times.
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Tropical, citrus, fruity, clean, light, refreshing, balanced.
BC: Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer? There really is no special or exciting story behind this beer. We had been wanting to make a Session IPA for some time and also the chance to experiment with Mosaic hops since I had never used them before. It was a wonderful experiment that was fun to brew and even more fun to drink.
BC: What’s a good food pairing for this beer? Street tacos or any solid Mexican dish is a great pairing for this beer. Something that has a nice spice kick with some flavored salsas to match the citrus and fruit notes of the beer.
72 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Brewer Q & A pFriem Pilsner – pFriem Family Brewers – 95 Rating Responses from co-founder and brewmaster Josh Pfriem.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? All of our beers have team influence and are in a constant stage of progression, but I am the one that originally came up with this beer.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? Its drinkability and subtle complexity. This beer drinks so well, it›s an everyday drinker and also a year-round drinker for me and my crew.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? With all our beers we just name them what they are. In this case its a historical style “Pilsner,” so the beers Josh Pfriem, Co-Founder and Brewmaster | Photo courtesy pFriem Family Brewers simply named Pilsner.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” Yes! If I had to only have one beer on a desert island it would be this beer!
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Brilliantly gold, spring flowers, zesty, crisp, snappy, floral, and refreshing.
BC: Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer? I love Pilsner. I have been brewing Pilsner my entire professional brewing career, never have I come across a style of beer that is thirst-quenching, dynamic, flavorful, and just so damn good. When we opened pFriem I was very excited to brew Pilsner, but at the time lagers were not all the rage like they are currently. My mind would have been blown if I new that pFriem Pilsner would become our flagship beer.
BC: What›s a good food pairing for this beer? Bratwurst, potato salad, grilled leeks, bacon, and Worcestershire vinaigrette.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 73 Brewer Q & A
Fayston Maple Imperial Stout – Lawson’s Finest Liquids – 94 Rating Responses from founder Sean Lawson.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? I did.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? Rich layers of malt flavor woven with the aroma and bold character of delicious locally roasted coffee.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? This Imperial Stout is brewed with maple syrup from Fayston Vermont.
BC: Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer? We are proud to produce our very first Sean Lawson, Founder | Photo Courtesy Lawson’s Finest Liquids coffee infused Imperial Stout with beans from our friend Scott Kerner of Carrier Roasting. Scott micro roasts beans by hand in a small barn in Northfield, VT.
BC: What’s a good food pairing for this beer? A delicate truffle from Quayl’s chocolates. Produced right here in Warren VT. The truffles are infused with the Fayston Maple Imperial Stout.
74 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Brewer Q & A
V irgil’s Reserve – Grist Brewing Co. – 94 Rating Responses from brewers Rob Kevwitch, Nate Wannlund, Steve Nolan and Tyler Swaim.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? Rob Kevwitch and brew team. Each year this beer is slightly different do to the barrel-aging effect and different attenuation that happens between each batch brewed.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? Our favorite aspect of this beer is the slight acidity the is added to the beer as it ages over time in the french cabernet wine barrels. This slight sour/acidic flavor helps to balance out this big beer and make it extremely well-rounded.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? As Dante matriculated through Hell, he was guided by a Roman poet, Virgil. Although Virgil’s official job title is a “guide” for Dante (does he hold a little flag up so Dante doesn’t get lost from his Hell tour?), we all know there Brewers (left to right): Rob Kevwitch, Nate Wannlund, Steve Nolan, Tyler Swaim is more going on. Virgil quickly goes from tour guide to personal tutor, liaison, and father figure to Dante. And Dante gushes over him in a fanboy-like manner. So, in keeping with the theme, Virgil’s Reserve would be as if he took Dante to his cellar on the way and shared some delicious beers that he had been aging. We like to think the first stop on Dante’s sojourn, before Purgatory, was Virgil’s cellar.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” Yeah if we wanna die in two days. Just kidding, but no for me this is not my desert island beer. I love this beer for how dynamic it is, and how it ages so well after being bottled and changes just slightly from year to year. I love barrel-aged beers but being a hop head this would not be my desert island beer.
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Cab barrel flavor, slight acidity and sweetness, medium bodied
BC: Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer? Not exactly about this years version. But for us, the beer that went into the barrels for next years version was the first brew in the 20-bbl system and that i handled from beginning to end on my own. Now going into this brew we did not think that this was going to be the batch that went in for next year’s release, but because of timing, our first batch of beer is now next year’s version of Virgil’s Reserve.
BC: What’s a good food pairing for this beer? Bone-in ribeye steak with onion blue cheese sauce and scalloped potatoes.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 75 Brewer Q & A
A thena Paradiso – Creature Comforts Brewing Co. – 93 Rating Responses from co-founder and head brewer David Stein.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? Ever since traveling to Hawaii, I fell in love with the combination of passion fruit and guava and thought it would be perfect in a Berliner Weisse, especially for a summer release.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? My favorite aspect of this beer is how refreshing it is. It’s the perfect beer for the hot summer months. Also, the balance between the guava and passion fruit flavors is awesome.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? CEO Chris Herron, Brewmaster Adam Beauchamp and Head Brewer David Stein | Photo Courtesy Creature Comforts Brewing Co. Athena Paradiso is what we call any fruited version of our core line Berliner Weisse, Athena. The ‘Paradiso’ is meant to prepare consumers for a beautiful fruit journey to paradise.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” Absolutely.
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Gently tart with subtle sweetness of passion fruit and guava.
76 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Brewer Q & A
Arjuna – Anthem Brewing Co. – 93 Rating Responses from founder and former head brewer Matt Anthony.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? I did.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? My favorite thing about Arjuna is the unique spice character -- the way that the Chamomile blends with the coriander and sweet orange peel creates a very unique flavor.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? Originally this beer was called White Flame, which unfortunately was a name that was already spoken for. Arjuna is Sanskrit for White Flame and we really like the way it rolls off the tongue.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” This would not be my Desert Island beer, it would be on the shortlist, but I think in the end it probably Matt Anthony, Founder and Former Head Brewer | Photo Courtesy Anthem Brewing Co. wouldn’t make that final spot.
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? CEO Chris Herron, Brewmaster Adam Beauchamp and Head Brewer David Stein | Photo Courtesy Creature Comforts Brewing Co. Fruity notes of orange peel, coriander and chamomile make for a refreshing experience.
BC: Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer? I am constantly surprised by the fierce following that Arjuna receives, at one point we were talking about reducing it to a seasonal and the fierce backlash we got from its loyal supporters quickly caused us to change our minds.
BC: What’s a good food pairing for this beer? Arjuna pairs great with white fish, fruit and sweet cheeses.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 77 Brewer Q & A
Grist Oktoberfest – Grist Brewing Co. – 93 Rating Responses from brewers Rob Kevwitch, Nate Wannlund, Steve Nolan and Tyler Swaim.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? Tyler Swaim and Rob Revwitch.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? We love the flavor and the clean finish. The toasty malty sweetness with just a hint of spiciness makes this one of our favorites to drink in the fall.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? We let the style for the beer hold the name marque.
BC: Is this your “desert island beer?” This is a very tough question. How does one pick one beer for eternity! This may not Brewers (left to right): Rob Kevwitch, Nate Wannlund, Steve Nolan, Tyler Swaim be our “desert island beer” but we would not complain if this is all that was offered.
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Copper in color, toasty, malty, spicy in flavor, clean finish.
BC: Do you know a story – or have a personal story – that revolves around this beer? Not really, just a love for this style of beer especially when the leaves start changing.
BC: What’s a good food pairing for this beer? This is one of those beers that pairs well with most foods! However how could you not want to pair it with a local bratwurst, sauerkraut, and an artisanal mustard!
78 | The Beer Connoisseur® – Winter 2017, Issue 28 Brewer Q & A
Matilda – Goose Island Beer Co. – 92 Rating Responses from brewmaster Jared Jankoski.
BC: Who came up with this beer’s recipe? We’re not sure. In the brewery’s early days there was a trip to Belgium that was the inspiration for the beer.
BC: What’s your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, etc.)? I really like the depth and complexity of the beer. It has unique earthy and spice notes contrasted by fruit notes that begin with dried fruit and as the beer ages become brighter and cherry-like as the beer dries out.
BC: Where does this beer’s name come from? Jared Jankoski, Brewmaster | Photo Courtesy Goose Island Beer Co. Inspired by great Trappist ales, our complex Belgian Style Pale Ale is fermented with the wild yeast Brettanomyces. Matilda pours a golden sunrise color with dried fruit and clove aromas, a spicy yeast flavor, and a satisfying dry finish. According to legend, a grateful Countess Matilda founded a monastery where, over centuries, monks have been brewing ale unique in character. While in Belgium, we were inspired by the story and the monks’ beer. We returned to Chicago and brewed our homage – a Belgian Style Pale Ale named Matilda.
BC: Can you describe this beer in 10 words or less? Complex Belgian Style with unique fruit and clove yeast character.
BC: What’s a good food pairing for this beer? Grilled food and Mediterranean are great with Matilda.
www.BeerConnoisseur.com | 79 Advertisement
http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?B=278781&U=637020&M=30876&urllink=