C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS JUNE 2015 NO. 237 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

Sailing Tradition Thrives in Antigua & St. Barth

See story on page 16 TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore www.caribbeancompass.com JUNE 2015 • NUMBER 237 HOLIAN VAUGHAN-RICHARDS

DEPARTMENTS Info & Updates ...... 4 The Caribbean Sky ...... 36 Business Briefs ...... 8 Salty’s Beat ...... 38 Eco-News ...... 10 Look Out For… ...... 38 Regatta News...... 12 Readers’ Forum ...... 39 Destinations ...... 18 Caribbean Market Place .....41 Bonaire Rebuild Y2A ...... 28 Calendar of Events ...... 44 Historic vessel restoration ...... 7 Meridian Passage ...... 31 Classified Ads ...... 45

FRANKS Seawise ...... 32 Cartoon ...... 46 Book & Movie Reviews...... 35 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46

Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ,

Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected], www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Accounting...... Shellese Craigg [email protected] [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman See Weed? Pointe Baptiste [email protected] Dominica’s chocolate factory ...22 Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. Sargassum has arrived ...... 11 See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Hot Coffee Trip Selling Your Boat ©2015 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short A Colombian farm tour ...... 21 Where does one begin? ...... 33 excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. ISSN 1605 - 1998 Cover Photo: From Folkboats to Tall , Antigua Classic Regatta has it all — in motion! It’s no surprise that ace race photographer Tim Wright is among the many snapping the action

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. ‘Compass is the single best information network in the islands. I read each issue cover to cover, and feel as if I have my finger on the pulse of the region. There’s always curiosity about what’s happening just over the horizon. And there’s always stimulation in the eloquence of voices from the fleet.’ — Ann Westergard, S/Y Galivant

Santa Marta

Cartagena

Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 &Updates Info speak EnglishorSpanishtoadegree,whichisrareinotherareas.Harborsnear ly olderchildrenwillbetoolivelyandyouneedtoaskthemleave.Manycan work, tosellyoufruit,assistasguides,etcetera.Mostareverypolite;occasional- though therewillbemany,manydugoutsfullofkidsandsomeadultsofferingto have internet,entertainment,etcetera.Youwillnotfindaggressiveboat-boys, local peopleareaccustomedtoyachts;smallbusinessesservefoodandsometimes Vache andonIle-à-Gonâve.TheseharborsareassafeanyintheCaribbean: Seas CruisingAssociation(seewww.noonsite.com)suchasatPortMorganonIle-à- There arealsoseverallocalharborguidesappointedbytheinternationalSeven notably fromFrankVirgintino(http://freecruisingguides.com/blog/author/frank). found atwww.noonsite.com/Countries/Haiti/haiti-violent-attack-on-cruising-couple safekeeping, andthecoupleflewout.[ boat waslatertakenbyvolunteerstoIle-à-Vacheinthesouthofcountryfor with theirfamilyandambassador,getthemaphone,clothes,etcetera.Their American aidworker(afriendofmine)wasabletofindthem,putthemintouch ashore byalocalofficialsomehourslaterandhospitalizedinGonaiveswherean pletely unprovokedandmighteasilyhavebeenfatal.Thecoupleweretaken causing seriousinjuries,andstolemuchequipmentgoods.Theattackwascom- group ofsixarmedmen,whostrippedandbeatthe(older)captainhiswife, Anse Rouge,northwestofthecityGonaives.Theywereboardedatdawnbya away, acrosstheGolfedelaGonâveonaveryremotepartofcoastlinenear to authorities,butreconfirmedastrueinAprilbyaninvestigatorwhovisitedthetown. equipment and“allowedtoproceed”Pestel,thenexttown.Thiswasnotreported la), whobehavedverythreateningly.TheboatwasrobbedofUS$1,000andsome mayor ofthesmalltownCorail(onnortherncoastHaiti’ssouthernpeninsu- the nightbyagroupof13armed“officials”reportedlyincludingpoliceand ing bothinasmallcapacity,I’dliketotryreassurepotentialvisitors. charity projectthere,andasalong-termcruiserwhowasabletoassistininvestigat- Haitian coastinthelastfivemonths.AsafrequentvisitortoHaitirunningsmall Considerable informationonHaitiasanewcruisinggroundisavailableonline, In April,aDutchcouplewereseekingshelterfromweathermorethan90miles The facts:InJanuaryaFrenchfamilyontheiryachtwereboardedinthemiddleof Mandy Thodyreports:Newsisfilteringouttocruisersoftwoseriousincidentsonthe Haiti Incidents:SeriousbutScattered www.doylecaribbean.com [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands A reportbythevictimstoNoonsitecanbe 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor Chaguramas AMD Sails Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas& Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuilding .]

THODY deserted stretchofcoastlineisveryrisky. where yachtsarenotcommon.Restingafteranarduouspassagealongsidea Morgan onIle-à-Vache,areless“busy”butstillsafeandwelcoming. these designatedcruisingports,suchasthenextfiveorsixbayseithersideofPort long asyouaresensible. is averylargeislandwithhugepopulation),hencetherisksareinyourfavorso and mainlandSouthAmerica—infact,muchmorecommonlythanHaiti(which worse thanthosedescribedaboveonthecoastsofmanyotherCaribbeanislands orphanage onIle-à-Vacheisapopularchoice. maritanofhaiti.com, oronFacebook. cargo frompreviousportsontheirtravelsbycontactingusonlineatwww.goodsa- short orlongvisits.Volunteerscanarrangetodeliversails,marinegearandother of fieldsincludinginformalEnglishlessons,music,mechanicalrepairs,andsoon,for ture program,andmore—wewelcomevolunteerswithexpertiseinanumber Samaritan ofHaiti,anon-sectarianorganizationwithschools,microcredit,agricul- boat guard,etcetera).Iamadministratorofanon-profitonIle-à-Vache—Good contacts whocanhelparrangeforyourneeds(laundry,marketvisits,clearances, with acharitableprojectasvolunteers—thusensuringgoodwill,andhavinglocal boats spendingthewholeyearorbeingstoredforseason. numbers. InPortMorgan,forinstance,someyearstherehavebeenfourorfive tion posingariskatanytime,howeverrare.Thereisalsoanelementofsafetyin sentatives whokeeptabsonyachtingactivityandcanadviseofanypoliticalsitua- Local craftandvisitingyachtsatPortMorgan,Haiti NOTE: Itis If youdochoosetovisitHaiti,remembertherehavebeenincidentssimilarand The sameistrueformanychurch-ledorothertypesofcharities.SisterFlora’s One waytovisitanareabyboatisarrangedeliverdonatedgoodsandwork shouldvisitportsofentryandmaketheirpresenceknowntocruiserrepre- Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Kingston PJG Jamaica Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix not advisabletovisitotherareasoftheHaitiancoast,especiallyin

—Continued onnextpage JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 —Continued on next page and in the number of

event could not have happened event could not have happened

volunteers came from Grenada, 15 came from as far away volunteers came from Grenada, 15 came from as far

how to float, to be “water safe”, and to improve their how to float, to be “water safe”,

Caribbean Foundation president Jan Roosens noted that St. Martin has Jan Roosens noted that Training Foundation president Caribbean Sail more information. for Visit www.CaribbeanSailTraining.com ‘Learn to Swim Week’ Grenada’s First fitting and Easter holiday, it seemed both drowning deaths over the Following two free swim lessons at 11 different locations throughout Over 500 people were given On learning about the initiative, Grenada Marine boatyard volunteered its rural On learning about the initiative, Grenada Marine boatyard the activity very rewarding Group Leader Laura Fletcher said, “Personally I found provides sponsorship for Caribbean youngsters taking sail training courses. for Caribbean youngsters provides sponsorship island — more training vessels visiting the in the number of seen an increase to date. than 35 port calls April 7th to Swim Week” was held first “National Learn needed that Grenada’s through 11th. the island and learned strokes. Organizer Deb Eastwood noted that the strokes. Organizer Deb Eastwood aid without support from the community, in both financial gave swim lessons. people that turned out to help teach. Over 100 volunteers Although the majority of as the US and England. ongoing corporate social location and group leadership capabilities as part of its (who learned to swim just responsibility policy. Swimming instructor Richardo John were so successful at four years ago) and the other instructors at Grenada Marine of the older students finished teaching the participants, mainly children, that many the week by doing races and diving off the dock! which is a wonderful and Richardo has told me he has learnt and grown himself, developing his aquatic win-win!” In fact, this event has also inspired him to continue on the island. By way of a skills by enrolling in a Red Cross Lifeguard Class being held staff have expressed the wonderful bonus, several members of the Grenada Marine to return this month. desire to learn to swim and Richardo has been booked

LEGENDRE . Danmark (46 to $1 at the moment) (46 to $1 at the gourdes hosted more than 670 visitors during a hosted more than 670 visitors Danmark Continued from previous page Continued from The 252- three-masted square-rigger was launched in 1932 and is owned by The 252-foot three-masted Sail Training Vessel Danmark Visits St. Martin Sail Training Vessel Danmark Vessel On May 2nd, the Sail Training Haitians are dignified and patient with foreigners who may have very different Haitians are dignified and patient You will be able to see much that is different, or no longer current in the rest of the or no longer current in to see much that is different, You will be able ordered — for any service or goods to arrive at a price in advance It is often difficult the Danish Maritime Authority. Trainees aboard the earn an Ordinary Seaman’s the Danish Maritime Authority. Trainees aboard the ship Sail Training Foundation license after 14 weeks aboard. The non-profit Caribbean are rarely used verbally; everyone talks in “Haitian dollars”, an imaginary currency “Haitian dollars”, an imaginary verbally; everyone talks in are rarely used that “dollars” US dollar now. If you assume or roughly nine to the worth five gourdes, by nine times. With that in mind, foodstuffs andmeans US$ you may be overpaying are not much cheaper than in other countries,manufactured goods and gasoline food. Labor and services performed are very cheapespecially if you eat “American” people will appreciate it if you can use their services(US$5 to $15 a day), and local laundry, boat-scrubbing, etcetera. Street food is cheapbe it for shopping, guiding, oil. Restaurant meals are often as expensive as onand quite safe if just out of hot person) and while well cooked, it’s not haute cuisine. other islands (US$20 to$ 30 per people are seeking a real connection and will try to views, but be warned, many with you in any way possible! Do go to Haiti, and establish a lasting relationship we are showing the value of tourism to the whole you’ll enjoy it. Plus, as cruisers country if crime can be controlled. , which was making her first call ever to St.public Open Day aboard the a private reception aboard was hosted by theMartin. Later in the evening, Captain Kurt Andersen and crew of the Caribbean Sail Training Foundation, West Indies — a life lived on foot and by mule, where fields are plowed by oxen, mule, where fields are plowed a life lived on foot and by West Indies — under sail, and hand-adzed boats from dug-out canoes or beautiful fishing is done buckets! is imported except plastic almost nothing US$10. for anything over about firmly on this and write it down it’s best to insist confusing as the official Haitian Currency is very — JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 the quarter-of-a-millionmark. where thetotalnowstandsatmorethanEC$225,800andthisyearwe together wouldbecome.Wehaveseentheamountraisedeachyeargrowto beyond expectations:overEC$3,000raised.Littledidwerealizewhatthislittleget- success, way was aresounding annual event. were presentforthis over 20nationalities yachts representing as many70 week, andlastyear choice forRegatta the anchorageof money! TyrrelBayis of ,toraise yachtspeople and, tain thevisiting designed toenter- the kids.ThiseffortculminatesduringRegattaweekwithanumberofevents and drawspeoplefromaroundtheworld.EachyearCCEFconductsfundraisingfor attend theCarriacouRegattaFestivalhasgrowntobeamajoreventonisland involved overtheyears! raised forthechildrentooverEC$250,000:anoutstandingjobbyallwhohavebeen Carriacou Children’sEducationFund,andthisyear’seventshouldpushthetotal used byTradeWindsCruiseClubattheBequiacharteryachtbase.Tradewindsalso they paintedlandscapes,seascapesandunderwaterscenesonthedockcarts — Year Onein2000 What startedasasmallget-togetherbygroupofyachtsmenwhohadcometo Melodye andJohnPompareport:Thisyearmarksthe15thannualfundraiserby Happy Birthday,CCEF:15,GoingOnaQuarterofMillion! In March,studentsatTheLearningCenterinBequiacompletedafunartproject— Dock CartsDécor! Continued frompreviouspage [email protected] [email protected] www.igy- marinasantamarta.com/en - Phone: + 57 5 4363601 72 VHF Channel 16, 34.45” 14´ Coordinates 11° 24 The CCEFteamcleaningtheauctionroomatAfterOurs NORTH 74° 13´04.91” WEST WEST NORTH 74°13´04.91” Club. on TradeWindsCruise com formoreinformation Learning Center. more informationonThe centertlcbequia.com for maths skills. guage arts,readingand Bequia. Theyfocusonlan- Primary Schoolchildrenof school programmeforthe Learning Center,anafter donated EC$300toThe Visit www.trade-winds. Visit www.thelearning- will crack and malls. the entire region. – Mini Mark of Marta,home Center City Santa the Historic to distance walking and beach local the to –Adjacent staff. lingual bi of High percentage dryers.–24 and /7365 washer Securi quality in -New professional showers. running Cold -TeakDocks.Hotand Facility. New Marina

RACHEL JASPERSEN / TEAM PHAEDO there whenCCEFbreaksthequarterofamillionmark,andremember:“It’sforkids!” with installingcomputerlabsinthreeprimaryschools. ates, schoollunchesatHarveyValePrimarySchoolfor137childrenandassistance have paidforfullscholarshipsatTAMarryshowCommunityCollege34gradu- school uniformsandsuppliesforover400childrenontheisland.Additionalfunds Affairs. WorkingcloselywiththeMinistry,CCEFhasprovidedmoneytopurchase the localpopulation,aswellMinistryofCarriacouandPetiteMartinique charge toTyrrelBay. Marine and you gettoGrenada.OuryachtingfriendsdowntheredropoffdonationsatBudget stopping inCarriacouonyourwaysouth,listentotheCruisersNetVHF66when boat hauledataveryreasonablepriceandhelpthechildrensametime. formerly TyrrelBayYachtHaulout,acrowdpleaserandanexcellentwaytogetyour few. ConstantthroughtheyearshasbeenahauloutdonatedbyCarriacouMarine, and equipment,todinneratoneofthefinerestaurantsonisland,namea tioned, fromadozencookiesthatgarneredEC$50,tohaircuts,divepackages Arawak DiversinHarveyVale.Overtheyearsavarietyofitemshavebeenauc- Goods andservicesdonatedareputupforbidinarollicking,funtimeatAfterOurs/ CCEF events.Themainevent,ifyouwill,istheauctionheldduringRegattaweek. and localresidentsofCarriacou,alongwith,course,allthosewhoparticipatein pages 41through43.Goodtohaveyouwithus! 29; andtheLazyTurtleBar&RestaurantofCarriacou,inMarketPlacesection, of UnionIsland,onpage19;ClarkesCourtBoatyard&MarinaGrenada, In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! Visit www.carriacouchildrenseducationfund.orgformoreinformation. Please joinusinCarriacouattheendofJulyandbepartthiswonderfuleffort.Be The contributionmadebytheyachtingcommunitytoCarriacouisrecognized If youwouldliketocontributesomethingfortheauctionbutarenotplanningon All ofthissuccessisduetothehardworkanumberpeople,bothyachtsmen M/V Amelia Compass et on site. – Nearby modern et onsite.–Nearby , theGrenada-to-Carriacouferry,deliversthemfreeof wewelcomenewadvertiserstheAnchorageYachtClub of the finest bistro, cafes and nightlife in in cafesandnightlife finest bistro, of the ty and Dock Attendants. - Free Wi-fi. -Free – Attendants. Dock and ty grocery, depar grocery, Regatta News! exploits inthismonth’s Phaedo’s Team Phaedo. Rachel Jaspersen/ credited to should havebeen Ocean Imagesand The pictureisby Christophe Jounay. enly creditedto Phaedo stunning photoof Corrections Read about In ourAprilissue,this Department of tment stores tment stores wasmistak- recent JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7

.” since earlier Stormvogel a half century Stormvogel Stormvogel , a replica of a wooden Dutch East exact shape. Elsdrodt worked for three Duyfken Stormvogel’s It is expected that it will take two years to rebuild the It is expected that it will take “We have also launched the Junior Shipwright pro- Contact [email protected] to make a Visit www.facebook.com/StormvogelBonaire to follow ago, have joined the effort. Bonaire resident Lars ago, have joined the effort. Bonaire resident Lars Elsdrodt is creating line drawings with CAD/CAM computer programming providing a permanent record of docks last March, the ship was towed to Navegante the ship was towed docks last March, offered free owner Lele Davidsson has Boatyard where step is toproject’s first year. “Our next space for the explains the condition of the boat,” carefully examine board member and head ofJohnny Craane, foundation will be inspected. Thenrestoration. “Every rib and plank future for we will decide what is the best ship to its former sailing glory. To that end, the foun- dation is actively seeking funds to finance this second phase of Project Stormvogel. But individuals are also spearheading the restoration. A volunteer restoration crew has been organized and the response from the local community is tremendous. People from all walks of life, even old sailors from years on Indies in . His line drawings will be the first visual record for Bonairean shipwrights built boats exclusively by memory and intuition rather than plans. Also joining the effort is Bruce Halabisky, a 20-year professional wooden boat shipwright and marine carpenter who will serve as consultant. These days Halabisky is offer- ing advice from afar as the foundation shares photos and videos during the restoration. He will also do on- site visits at critical stages of the process to supervise the work and ensure quality control. gram,” adds Craane. “It is a ten-hour course where students will get hands-on experience working alongside Bonairean shipwrights while completing nine hours of restoration work. Plus, they will attend a one-hour talk on Bonaire’s nautical heritage presented by our histori- an and board president, Boi Antoin. Students from Scholen Gemeenschap Bonaire (Bonaire Community Schools), STINAPA’s Junior Rangers and the CIEE Research Station will work on the project. The Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds for the Caribbean region helped fund this initiative. We are very excited to connect the island’s young people with their maritime past.” donation to Project Stormvogel. the progress. slowly during its to the city was ready to has left Curaçao Stormvogel Stormvogel Stormvogel Stormvogel HOMECOMING Stormvogel . There was still the matter of hold delivered to her historical core. The first task to its original condition when it was Stormvogel first captain, Martinus Ramon Felida, was fast and seaworthy, Doña Luisa Stormvogel’s Stormvogel Stormvogel Back in 2012 François van der Hoeven, now a foun- Van der Hoeven wasted no time. He found a free spot These interviews with Bonaire’s old sailors and boat- These interviews with Bonaire’s After the sinking in a Curaçao backwater. Van der Hoeven understood the tremendous historical value of the boat and knew he had to do something fast. For three years, every week François pumped out water from the old while he tried to generate interest on Bonaire to save her. Last November, several Bonaire residents formed the foundation, contacted legal rep- resentatives from Martin Felida’s family, and secured ownership of builders are part of Fundashon Patrimonio Marítimo Boneiru’s (Bonaire Maritime Heritage Foundation) mis- sion to save and preserve the rich nautical history of the ABC Islands. The foundation’s flagship project is restor- ing launched in 1951, but that almost did not happen. dation board member, discovered getting her back home. at the boatyard, Curaçao Marine, and had the boat hauled out. Then he gathered a group of ten enthusi- astic volunteers. Over four months, they stripped down was to remove 1,500 kilos of cement blocks that had been stored in the hold. Once Biofuel Curaçao pumped out 300 litres of gas oil and 12 litres of engine oil, the crew pulled out the two large fuel tanks. They finished by taking out foam insulation, rotten planks and a defunct steering mechanism. Then Van der Hoeven and three others cut free the ship’s massive, rusting diesel engine, which was then taken out of the hold by a crane. All told, the group removed three and a half tons of unwanted material. sailing days, recalls hauling live goats. “We would load hauling live goats. “We sailing days, recalls Bonaire and and 90 goats from Klein between 80 many as we Curaçao. We would put as deliver them to the rest above deck. With a could below deck and tied crew of five, it was pretty crowded.” return home, but not without some regret. As volun- teer Nicky Pietersz wrote, “With mixed feelings I’m writing this e-mail. Our this early evening at 1725 and will be arriving at her birth home in Bonaire around 2130. Hope you have as much fun restoring her as we had during the prep works for her transport.” Soliano (79), a deckhand aboard Soliano (79), a Clockwise from above: Stormvogel and her lines say so Johnny Craane, Maritime Heritage Foundation board member and head of restoration Ismael Soliano, now 86, was Stormvogel’s captain for four years Julia Martinus, student volunteer. ‘The response from the local community is tremendous’ The Maritime Heritage Foundation’s François van der Hoeven in Stormvogel’s hauled cargo in the 1950s was Stormvogel

was modernized in the 1960s with a die- became visible as she rounded the far tip as she rounded the far became visible . “We would choose special shaped branch-

. “We searched for hardwood in the hills,” recalls STORMVOGEL’S Stormvogel Ismael Soliano (86) tells about its sailing prowess on This historic boat, built on Bonaire in 1951, is the On the morning of March 25th, 2015 local freighter of March 25th, 2015 local On the morning by Patrick Holian sel engine and registered as a Curaçao ship. Felida later did an extensive overhaul of the boat in the early 1990s at Schottegat Bay. For decades, the cutter hauled goods, packages and freight. There were rumors of smuggling liquor and cigarettes from Klein Curaçao to when economic times were tough. Lucio his first return journey into the wind from Aruba to Bonaire. Soliano served as captain on and off, accu- mulating four years behind her helm. “When we left Aruba, we followed the Venezuelan coast for over a day. At the right time, we made one north. That route took us directly to Kralendijk. We completed the voyage in just two days. Fast boat!” Bonaire. Martin’s father, Jan Efteban Felida, financed the building of the boat and local shipwright Etche Craane crafted it under the shade of a tamarind tree. Once complete, her hull was painted black to resemble the dark-hued plumage of the bird for which she is named, the storm petrel. Much of the wood used was gathered locally in Bonaire’s wild outback called the mondi Jan Felida (81), a relative of Martin who worked on Stormvogel es that would fit the curved form of the hull. Some wood came from government land, but we harvested most of it from a private family plot.” last of the sail-powered cargo ships from the time last of the sail-powered cargo ships from the time before air travel arrived on the island. In 1951, Captain Martinus Ramon Felida had secured a lucrative con- tract to haul propane tanks between Curaçao and finally coming home. usual freight containers, placed on her port side was usual freight containers, placed on her port side was an impressive 45-foot wooden hull. Doña Luisa another freight run for the of Klein Bonaire. It was just sunny day something workhorse ship, but on this deck was jammed with the looked different. While her JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 tion, thenclickonthered“C”button(“Download PDFcorrection”).Voila! www.imray.com/charts/Imray+Charts/Caribbean+Sea, clickonthechartinques- evaluation andassistancewithserviceafter thesale—sailorshelpingsailors! Grenada. Theywillofferexpertadviceand analysisontrendsintheindustry,yacht your currentboat,stopbyorcontactChris andChrystalattheTMCofficein destination intheCaribbean.Buyerswantaboatthatisalreadyparadise! Grenadines aresuchanamazingcruisingground,itisquicklybecomingTHEsailing attend thesurveyandfinalizedetailsofsale.BecauseGrenada Company’s brokersareontheislandtogetknowyourboat,show ers arelookingtosellorupgradetheirboatwhiletheythere.TheMultihull temporary hometohundredsofyachtsduringthatseason.Manythoseboatown- as wellguidethemthroughtheselectionandpurchaseofayacht. team wasaperfectmatch.ChrisandChrystallovetoteachinspirenewsailors their studentsarealsointhemarkettobuyaboat.JoiningTheMultihullCompany school (LTDSailing–“LivingtheDream!”).ChrisandChrystaldiscoveredthatmany of The MultihullCompany,theyownanAmericanSailingAssociationaccreditedsailing resource inGrenadaforcatamaransalesandservice.Inadditiontotheirworkwith sell yourboatorfindtheofdreams.Professionalandfriendly,theyare and Chrystalaretruesailorswholivefull-timeontheisland.Theyheretohelpyou bungalow sharedinpartnershipwithGrenadaMarine. Its GrenadaofficeislocatedinPortLouisMarina,onJDockaCaribbean-style to arrival: its developmentalstage,witheightoutoftheprojected80slipspresentlyavailable. engineers, top-qualitytechniciansandfirst-classoperators.Ourmarinaiscurrentlyin wood, steelandaluminum,24-hoursecurityforboatsinstorage. 120 feetlong.Weofferprofessionalanddo-it-yourselffacilitiesincludingfiberglass, service goalscanbeachieved. our spacious25-acreBoatyardandMarinawhereallyourboatingmarine- project —theBoatyardthatwilleventuallyofferstorageforupto400boats. is progressingwell.Constructiononthis13-acresitefocusedthefirstphaseof BUSINESS BRIEFS Get thelatestcorrectionsforyourImray-Iolaire andotherchartsnow.Justgoto Get YourCaribbeanChartCorrections For moreinformationonTheMultihullCompany seeadonpage43. Whether youarelookingforyourfirstboat,nextboatorinterestedinselling • Attractsseriousbuyers • Easytogetandfrommajorcities • Modernboatyards,facilities,andservices • Greatboatingcommunityandfriendlyislandpeople • Popularcruisingarea-wherepeoplewanttobe! Why listandkeepyourboatinGrenada? Since itisbelowthehurricanebeltforinsurancepurposes,Grenadabecomes Associate brokersintheGrenadaofficeareChrisRundlettandChrystalYoung. The MultihullCompanyisaninternationalyachtbrokerage“bysailors,forsailors”. Meet TheMultihullCompany’sGrenadaTeam For [email protected]. Visit usatwww.skmw.netandwww.facebook.com/SKMarineWorks Norjah Witter,OperationsManager(869)667-8930 Bruce Berry,YardManager(869)664-1978 St. KittsMarineWorksstandsbyVHFchannel06.Youcanalsocontactusphone: Mychail Danielat(868)760-6382,[email protected] Calvin Mitchumat(869)766-5567,[email protected] • St.KittsMarineWorksalsoofferson-siteCustoms.ContactCustoms24hoursprior • 24-hourSecurity • Complimentaryhigh-speedWiFi • Painting • Fiberglass • Tie-down/ScrapePressurewash • Hauling/LaunchingStorage Come onintoSt.KittsMarineWorksandenjoyourservices.Someoftheseare: St. KittsMarineWorksLtd.comprisesadedicatedteamofprofessionalsincluding We operatea164-tonMarineTravelift,abletoliftboatsup35feetwideand Norjah Witterreports:LocatedatNewGuinea,St.KittsjustbelowBrimstoneHillis St. KittsMarineWorks:QualityServicesfromProfessionaltoDIY Delivery wasrecentlytakenofa40-tonsubmersibleslipwaytrailerandtractor. Lynn Fletcherreports:ThenewlynamedClarkesCourtBoatyard&MarinainGrenada Progress atClarkesCourtBoatyard,Grenada Grenada team Company’s The Chris (atright), (at left)and Meet Chrystal ad onpage29. August 2015. operation during commissioned, willbein and, onceerectedand mated toarrivemid-July 242-ton hauloutliftisesti- under construction. their limitedserviceswhile reduced ratesowingto offering hauloutsatgreatly tested, ClarkesCourtwillbe Once commissionedand For moreinformationsee Clarkes CourtBoatyard’s —Continued onnextpage JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 THINK THIS SUMMER! GRENADA MARINE GRENADA • Grenada Marine continues its operations with quality • Grenada Marine continues boatyard is located on Grenada’s • This “one stop shop” on the J Dock of • We also have an outpost office located 70-ton • Grenada Marine boasts a custom-designed storage, • So, whether you are looking for summer services in storage, repairs and maintenance in accordance services in storage, repairs for yachts in the with international standards Wider Caribbean Region. and has a southeast coast in the parish of St. David 250-boat capacity. in St. George’s. Camper & Nicholson’s Port Louis Marina of 32 feet, marine travelift that has an inside width as 31.5 feet. making it possible to haul boats as wide a complete a topside re-spray or a simple bottom job, is the ideal repower or a complete refit, Grenada Marine choice for you.

YAMONACO —Continued on page 46 , at the Bequia Bookshop. Captain Mark’s Way: True period (up to 13 Amps/hour)

In order to continually improve customer improve customer In order to continually Marine For more information on Grenada St. Vincent New at Blue Lagoon Marina, satisfaction, Grenada Marine sent Stefan Marine sent Stefan satisfaction, Grenada of the mechanical Fletcher, supervisor on another Fischer Panda department, in mid-April. The Generator course included more practi- enhanced training trouble-shooting of Fischer cal training and Pictured here, Stefan Panda’s generators. knowledge shares his recently acquired with colleagues on his return. see ad on page 9. readers can relate to the unique world that the 2015 Compass is available at the Bequia Bookshop or from SAIL Magazine’s Continued from previous page Continued from Mark told attendees at the launch, “The main point of the book is to offer what might Captain Mark’s Way Captain Mark’s Book Launched in Bequia On April 27th, Mark Denebeim launched his book, The Hydromax 150 is an excel- only recently adapted for Fuel cells have been around for a long time, although The Hydromax 150 is unique because: • It uses no flammable fuel (no methanol!) an acid (malic acid, which • The mixing of two very safe components — a salt and the chemical reaction is found in fruit and used as a food additive) — provides form • The salt and acid are shipped and stored in dried powder • It can produce over 300 Amps in a 24-hour Hydrovane self-steering Hydrovane Intentional Marine Inc. (manufacturer of the For more information visit www.hydrovane.com/other-products/hydromax-150-fuel-cell Place section, pages 41 For more information on Hydrovane see ad in the Market stories and recounts the In this slim paperback, Mark shares his zany charter skipper Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina in St. Vincent now offers more! In addition to The Gold in St. Vincent now offers more! In addition to The Gold Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina Office based at the full-service marina and three With a Customs and Immigration on page 11. For more information see ad On Demand 12-Volt Power! Marine Inc. reports: The Hydromax 150 Fuel Sarah Curry of Hydrovane International Fischer Panda Expertise at Grenada Marine Fischer Panda [email protected] adventures of his early Caribbean sailing days — some of which, such as having to take a delivery crewmember to the hospital while both under the influence of Sage Mountain mushrooms, are perhaps best not to emulate — as well as offering his later experiences as a sort of freewheeling, party-loving bachelor’s-point-of-view cruising guide to his favorite spots in the Lesser Antilles. be a new perspective. Caribbean has to offer and should get a good chuckle out of it. Besides, what else do you have to do while you’re sitting out there in the harbor but read my book?” Pittman Award for Innovation. lent complement to other methods of green power gen- eration on a cruising boat. It is a quiet and reliable way to produce 12V power, anytime and anywhere. directly convert the chemi- marine use. They are small electrochemical devices that — safely, quietly, and cal energy of a continuous reaction into electrical energy without excessive generation of heat. the HYDROMAX 150. windvane) is now the sole North American distributor for through 43. Doubloon Grocery Store & Provisioning Service, the ever-growing list of facilities and Provisioning Service, the ever-growing list of facilities and Doubloon Grocery Store & and a newly completed swimming pool. services includes a fitness room Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina makes a great base for dining options to choose from, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. you and your boat while exploring up on our radar at the Southampton International Boat Cell Battery Charger showed Show in the UK last September. a Our first thoughts were, “What cool maintenance-free con- cept,” and, “We want this addi- tional source of on-demand power on our boat!” We’ve not been alone in our admiration: the Hydromax 150 was recently awarded Caribbean Stories and Reflections of a Sailing Captain — Author Mark Denebeim and Cheryl Johnson of the Bequia Bookshop, long a source of reading material for sailors JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 and authorof island,” remarkednaturewalkguideMarkYokoyama,LesFruitsdeMerco-founder highlight ofthewalk. finch. AlargeGaïactree—perhapsoneoftheoldestonSt.Martinwasanother Antillean crestedhummingbird,black-facedgrassquitandLesserbull- park duringtheguidednaturewalk,includingCaribbeanelaenia,bananaquit, Park. Avarietyofregionallyendemicbirdswereseeninthedrycoastalforest it growsreadilyfromseedandiswelladaptedtoSt.Martin,partofitsnativerange. growing thesetrees.Althoughtheonce-commontreewasover-harvestedforcenturies this crowd-sourcedexperimentwillbeusedtodevelopbestpracticesforsuccessfully record theirobservationswhiletheygrowseedlings.Theinformationcollectedin participants weregivenachoiceofseedoriginandsoiltypeencouragedto of anongoingprojecttorestorethisheritagetreetheisland’slandscape.Workshop hundred sproutedseedsweregivenawayduringtheEndemicAnimalFestivalaspart The Gaïac,alsoknownasLignumVitae,isanendangerednativetree.Morethana at a‘discoverystation’ Young mindsareengagedbycloseobservationofendemicinsects Martin, andit’sreallyajoytosharethatwithpeople.” organize, theEndemicAnimalFestivalshowcasesuniquenaturalheritageofSt. were,” saidLesFruitsdeMerPresidentJennYerkes.“Morethananyothereventwe and otherfamily-friendlyactivitiesrelatedtoendemicwildlife. region andfeaturedaguidednaturewalk,anEndemicAnimalDiscoveryStation, tourists. TheAprileventcelebratedanimalsfoundonlyonSt.Martinorinour year —wasbiggerandbetterthanever,attractingmore250residents Caribbean countries intheCaribbean. Bird Festival,aregionalwildlifeawarenessprogramthatincludeseventsinover20 Island WaterWorldandLePetitHotel.TheeventispartoftheCaribbeanEndemic Les FruitsdeMer,withfundingfromsponsorsHotelL’Esplanade,DeltaPetroleum, that wereroamingfreeonaplantatthestation. Attendees werealsochallengedtospotsomehighlycamouflagedlocalstickinsects woodslave, beardedanole,Soualigawallcrabspiderandleafmimickatydid. insects andspidersincludingfourspeciesfoundonlyonSt.Martin:thespotted but itisallintertwined.” of Gaïacortheintroductionmongoose.Therearedifferentaspectstoheritage, some nearbyislandsthanothers—butalsohumanstories,liketheoverexploitation ries —howuniquespeciesdevelopedonSt.Martinorwhywesharemorefaunawith [email protected] www.barefootyachts “There aresomanyfascinatingstoriesembeddedinthenaturalspaceson This year’sfestivalwasheldattheDiscoveryFarmandGardenSeasideNature A highlightwasthelaunchofClubGaïacwithaTreeLifeWorkshopatevent. “We wereabsolutelythrilledwiththegreatturnoutandhowexcitedattendees The LesFruitsdeMerAssociation’sEndemicAnimalFestival—nowinitssecond St. Martin’sEndemicAnimalFestival For moreinformationvisitwww.lesfruitsdemer.com. The festivalisproducedandstaffedbyvolunteersfromthenon-profitassociation The EndemicAnimalDiscoveryStationfeaturedavarietyofendemiclizards,

Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL The IncompleteGuidetotheWildlifeofSaintMartin

Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters ECO -News . “Biologicalhisto- for theday. les werealsohavingtheirearlymorninglime,seemingtobediscussingplans bellied elaenia,whostruckseveralposestowelcomeus.SeveralpairsofCaribgrack- Upon arrivingatourfirstsiteweweregreetedbythesweetwhistlingofayellow- ing therainyweather,allexcitedandraringtogo,despitecoldlackofsleep. to anend. over 37laughinggullsandindeeditwasamomenttosmileaboutasourtripcame for thebirdsandarichmixofspeciesarehiddenthere. the firsttimewebeheldimmaturewhimbrels.Theinterior,realize,isasafehaven Orisha andmyself:wechartedacoursetodiscovertheinteriorofmangrove.For echoed fromthetreesasiftheywereallcompetingtogiveusanindividualgreeting. grassquits andbananaquitscreatedasymphony.Thecooingofscaly-napedpigeons herons, whimbrels,tropicalmockingbirds(seephoto),greykingbirds,black-faced umbrella ofCaribbeanmartinsinswiftflight,whilebeneaththesoundswillets, among theteamaswenavigatedourwaythroughshrubs.Overheadwasan included arecentgraduateoftheBirdsleuthprogram,gatheredbefore6:00 Caribbean EndemicBirdFestivalonEarthDay,April22nd.Ourteamoffour,which mental protection,hasbeenawardedtoactivistsinmorethan80countries. natural resources,includingfishingwaters,endangeredcoralandmangroves. for InternationalDevelopment,FoProBiMworkswithcommunitygroupstopreserve focusing oncoastalandmarineareas.FundedbytheUnitedNationsUSAgency Foundation (FoProBiM),Haiti’sonlynongovernmentalenvironmentalorganization Bridgeport, Connecticut.HeisthefounderofMarineBiodiversityProtection of investorinterest. backed projectwhichwasscrappedlastyearoverenvironmentalconcernsandlack terms ofmarinelifeandfishnurseries,”Wienersaid. coastal eco-sytems“makesitprobablyHaiti’smostproductivesystemin well asoneofitslongestbarrierreefsandimportantseagrassbeds.Thattrifecta Caracol andFortLiberté.TheareaincludesHaiti’ssecond-largestmangrovearea,as tects thevulnerableecosystemofover-fishedwatersinbaysLimonade, Haitien totheborderwithDominicanRepublic.Thepark,createdin2014,pro- Park, covering30,000squaremiles(75,000sqkm)stretchingfromthecityofCap ral resources. few full-timeenvironmentalistsandalmostnogovernmentprogramstoprotectnatu- efforts inovercomingextremepovertyandpoliticalinstabilityHaiti,acountrywith communities topromotesustainablefishingpracticesandpreservemangroveforests. instrumental inestablishingHaiti’sfirstMarineProtectedAreaswhileworkingwithlocal Haiti’s northcoast,hasearnedaGoldmanEnvironmentalFoundationprize.Wienerwas Wiener, whosuccessfullyfoughttocreateanationalparkprotectlargeswathof As weemerged,themorningskyofCliftonHarborwasbeautifullyadornedwith The callsfromdeepwithinthemangrovemadeitirresistibleformyteammate The sightingsweremagnificent,evokingthrillsandsparkingmuchenthusiasm Marslyn Lewisreports:TheSusGrenBirdersofUnionIslandcelebratedthe Sustainable Grenadines:EarthDayisBirdDay! The prize,createdin1990byRichardandRhodaGoldmantoencourageenviron- A schoolteacherinPort-au-Prince,WienerstudiedbiologyattheUniversityof The FortLibertébayhadbeentargetedforportdevelopmentbyaUSgovernment- Wiener, 50,ishonoredforacampaignheledtocreatetheThreeBaysNational In awardingtheUS$175,000prize,GoldmanFoundationhighlightedWiener’s As reportedbyDavidAdamsatwww.reuters.com:HaitianmarinebiologistJean Haitian MarineBiologistWinsEnvironmentalActivismPrize .com AM , brav- JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11

HTTP://OCEANCURRENTS.RSMAS.MIAMI.EDU

Sargassum fluitans

and currents from its stranding locations sargassum comes from by backtracking Sargassum natans Sailing through sargassum frustrated the Volvo Researchers who are working to track causes and Emma Doyle is with the Gulf and Caribbean Fisheries See related article on page 38. What can cruisers do? What can we do about it? What can we difficult in from the sea is Removal of sargassum Are there any uses for sargassum? redistributed in areas Dried sargassum can be Above: Scientists are working to determine where the Ocean Racers on their leg from to Newport in Ocean Racers on their leg from Brazil to Newport in May 2015, with reports of jammed rudders and invol- untary broaches. Facing the sargassum influx requires patience and care, both at sea and on land. transport pathways, as well as to develop prediction and alert systems, welcome reports of sargassum from sailors. Please use the reporting site www.usm.edu/ gcrl/sargassum/sargassum.observation.form.php Institute and Jim Franks is with the University of Southern Mississippi’s Gulf Coast Research Laboratory. sargassum involved in the influx are different from sargassum involved in the influx are different from those grown as “sea moss” in the Caribbean and some- times used in food and drinks. New uses for sargas- sum collected from beach strandings are being devel- oped — for example, as a biofuel, as fertilizer and as a component in livestock feed or fish food. nities, this should be done in an environmentally be done in an environmentally nities, this should practices via the least intrusive responsible manner prior to any checks made for wildlife possible, with dunes. care not to damage coastal cleaning and as it and environmentally damaging, practical terms sargas- living ecosystem in the floating threatens the sargassum is of the Atlantic, pelagic sum. In parts accord- Habitat and protected considered Essential mostly focus on ingly. Attempts at local management of sargassum washed dealing with the large quantities agree on the need to up on beaches. Coastal managers sargassum for natural pro- balance the importance of for beaches and cesses and as life-giving nourishment clean beaches. Experience seabirds, with pressure to Gulf of highlights in addressing the issue in the clear policies about that it’s essential to establish beaches so as to avoid where, when and how to clean as worsened erosion from detrimental impacts such use of beach cleaning equipment. But care is needed in how affected by beach erosion. damaging sand dunes and this is done so as to avoid nesting and bird nesting to avoid impacting sea turtle used as mulch or compost habitat. Sargassum can be wash out in the rain, and — after allowing the salt to The species of pelagic mixed with compost or manure. Left:

J. FRANKS t r y

Sargassum on the east coast of Barbados Sargassum on the east coast Will the influx happen all The sargassum does not Is it a problem to leave it Sargassum occurs naturally plants need nutrients from the sargassum, and sea plants need nutrients from the sargassum, and sea birds, for example, depend on the sea life carried in the sargassum for food. During decomposition there will inevitably be a smell and insects around. The experi- ence in locations that have left the sargassum on the beach is that it will eventually get washed away or buried in the next storm, with rain easing the smell. Leaving sargassum on the beach has proven to be the simplest approach, also avoiding potential negative impacts associated with beach cleaning. Where remov- al from some areas is considered essential by commu- year round? necessarily affect the same location in the Caribbean all year. As it is transported on currents it progressively affects different locations across the region. At any one time of the year there are multiple loca- tions that can be affected. to rot on the beach? on beaches, albeit in smaller quantities. It plays a role in beach nourishment and is an important element of shore- line stability. Sand dune Sargassum flui- and

Sargassum natans

that drifts freely at the surface of the ocean and

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AN EMERGING ISSUE ISSUE AN EMERGING WIDER CARIBBEAN IN THE Pelagic Sargassum: Sargassum: Pelagic What is it? Pelagic sargassum is a complex of two species of During 2011, massive quantities of pelagic sargassum Will the sargassum influx occur every year? We don’t know for sure if it will happen every year, but Since pelagic sargassum drifts on ocean currents, Where is the recent influx of sargassum Jim Franks by Emma Doyle and brown algae ( appeared throughout the Caribbean, impacting aquatic resources, fisheries, fishers, shorelines, waterways, tourism, and community life. A similar event occurred in 2014 and continues in 2015. Fishers and sailors are commenting on the large quantities of sargassum cur- rently being encountered at sea. Here are some answers to frequently asked questions about the influx. currently proposed efforts to develop prediction and alert systems would help answer this important question. Signs from the Eastern Caribbean so far this year are that we’ll be seeing sargassum in the region periodically throughout 2015. Some scientists associate the cause of sargassum influx with higher than normal temperatures and low winds, both of which influence ocean currents, and they draw links to global climate change. scientists are working to determine where the sargas- sum comes from by backtracking from its stranding locations using ocean models and data on movements of satellite trackers that are deployed at sea. It is believed that the recent influxes are related to massive sargassum blooms occurring in particular areas of the Atlantic, not directly associated with the Sargasso Sea, where nutrient input and high water temperatures enable rapid growth. The sargassum consolidates into large mats and is transported by ocean currents towards and through the Caribbean. coming from? tans never attaches to the ocean floor. These free-floating forms are only found in the Atlantic Ocean. Pelagic sargassum is a dynamic ecosystem, providing refuge for migratory species and essential habitat for some 120 species of fish and more than 120 species of inver- tebrates. It’s an important nursery habitat that pro- vides shelter and food for valuable species of fish such as tunas and billfishes and endangered species such as sea turtles. JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 winds makeitnighimpossible,whileothersinsisttheseas Well likesagoodmyth,andwhiletherealityis everyone America... Some say the ferocious currents and contrary America... Somesaytheferociouscurrentsandcontrary scheduled forSeptember, mightbejustthethingtospice And so,ratherthanhunkerdownforsixmonthswaiting Myths aboundonsailingfromtheCaribbeantoSouth for thenextsailingseason,whynotindulgeinvisiting some oftheleastknownanchoragesinAtlantic... are rifewithpiratesbentonpillageandplunder! not nearlyasexciting,theannualNereid’s Rally, up an otherwise dullmaintenanceseason. up anotherwise www.marinaslm.com/rally For more information goto: For moreinformation TEMPTED?

JOUANY CHRISTOPHE injured, andthebrand-newfoilingcatamaran wasrightedwithintwohours. race, but Mente, Lucky course thatwillberepeatedhereeachyear. ( on theWednesdayestablishedmultihull recordforanewlyintroduced43-mile entries initswake,winningallfourraces. “It wasagreatevent,”saidThornburg,who work uptospeed. more impressive,aseveryonehadtolearnnewpositionsandquicklygettheteam- Rene Edwardswhowereunabletocompetethisyear.Thismadethevictoryall included DanielSegalowiczandBernardSillem,whostoodinforDerekLittle regular crewmembersChristopherMarshallandLomigHenry,theteamthisyearalso beating thesecond-placeboatbytwopoints.SkipperedAndreaScarabelliwith racing, theteamendedupwithtwofirstsandsecondsforatotalofsixpoints, Sailing intoughconditions,whichcoveredmorethan140milesoverthefourdays of place in2014,theteamworkedhardtogetbackintowinningspotfor2015. the leaderboardinMelges24s.Havingwontheirclass2013followedbyasecond doing thebestonratings. of fun.” little bitlightforus.Forourboat,thiswas the mostchallengingcourse,soitwasalot Lloyd said,“Todaythewindcameback, whichwasnice,whereasyesterdaya established therecordsforMaxi1and 2classes,respectively.)Ofthelastrace, board, but took secondtoHapFauth’sJV72, gave theteamthreefirst-placefinishesinarow.Bylastday,when every race. other. Thepowerful the firsttworacedays,sincenoonehadyetseenboatssailagainsteach four-race series.Alleyeshadbeenon the wire. not havetosailthelastracebutchosedosoanyway),fourclasseswentdown in sixclasseshadclinchedtheiroverallvictoriesonthenexttolastday(somedid mate racedaysettledto1520knotwindsforthefinalday’sracing.Whileteams design classforMelges24s,thesmallestboatscompeting. in the50-to70-footrangeandsmallerracing/cruisingboats.Therewasaone- (at 100feet,oneofthelargestboatsthere)tomoretraditionalgrandprixracers such asGeorgeDavid’s Thornburg’s MOD70trimaran ed tenoverseascountriesandnineCaribbeanislands. hosted 70boatsinthesixthedition,heldApril14ththrough18th.Thefleetrepresent- REGATTA NEWS Lloyd Thornburg’s At theotherendofsizerange,St.MartinBudgetMarineGILLteamtopped Not somuchfunwasGunboatG4 High windsforthefirsttwodays,followedbyasunnylaydayandgreypenulti- Boats competingintenclassesrangedfromspeedymultihullssuchasLloyd Les VoilesdeSt.Barthhasbeengrowingsteadilysinceitsinceptionin2010and Growth forLesVoilesdeSt.Barth The event’slargest,fastestboatssailedinMaxi1class,where Bella Mente’s Bella Mente Rambler 88 and Comanche Phaedo 3 Comanche wasabletoreplacetheRP63 performancehandedthetiebreakertotheirteam. , prevailedhowever,withcorrected-timeperformancesthat Rambler 88 Rambler 88 spentitsregattaleavingthesevenotherMultihullclass Phaedo 3 hadallsharedthesamepointscoreafterlast showedblazinglyfastspeed,takinglinehonorsin Bella Mente andJimKristyHinze-Clarke’s Timbalero III’s maintaineditsplaceatthetopofscore- Rambler 88 totechnologicallysophisticatednew-builds Comanche , thefocushadreturnedtowhowas dramaticcapsize.Noonewas andthelarger Lucky andtheSwan90 —Continued onnextpage asrunnerup. Rambler 88 Comanche Comanche Rambler 88 wonthe Bella Odin during

JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM

. and . . Exodus Argyll Zemi Classics secured the

won the . , was declared ) was hit, so it . The 45 Foot and , won Saphaedra Vagabundo II Genesis . Trevor Fretter’s 1938, Argo Mary Rose Black Watch —Continued on next page Philippe Fabre’s Whitehawk Hamachi secured the class win in Vagabundo II was the winner of Vintage Class C. won the Spirit of Tradition Class. was fourth. Juno, Classic GRP Class.

Summer Cloud. Lorema, , skippered by Sergio Sagramoso, took all firsts Sergio Sagramoso, took all , skippered by Rebecca , topped The Blue Peter, was third just four seconds behind Petrana Lazy Dog holding on to second place by four seconds from Black Watch, skippered by Gerald Rainier, scored a perfect four races to win Vintage , was the race winner by just over a minute, after time correction, from Vagabundo II Argyll Continued from previous page Continued from Mary Rose, Paul Deeth’s 1965 Alden 50, The 29th edition of Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, sponsored by Panerai, will be Visit http://yachtscoring.com/media_print_1_top3.cfm for a full list of podium winners. Visit www.antiguaclassics.com for more information. Ile-à-Vache Holds a Race Day Bruce Leeming reports: There are huge regattas here at Ile-à-Vache, Haiti at least The non-profit group Friends of Ile-à-Vache Haiti sponsored a Fishermen’s Race Day The winner received a set of sails we brought down this year. Second and third In a highly competitive fleet of six Carricou , Alexis Andrews’ The Puerto Rican Melges 32 The Puerto Rican The 28th annual Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, sponsored by Panerai, was held The 28th annual Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, sponsored of easterly wind. The entire four-race series was blessed with 15 to 20 knots of solo racing enjoyed Racing for the full fleet started on April 17th, but exponents The 16th also featured the Concours d’Elegance. In judging this event, points are The 16th also featured the Concours d’Elegance. In judging The final race was one of the closest for many years in Vintage A Class. Four yachts Visit https://app.regattaguru.com/lesvoiles/100085/results for full results. Visit https://app.regattaguru.com/lesvoiles/100085/results for more information. Visit www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com Hot as Ever! Antigua Classics which were gathered in English Harbour, Antigua, Back in the 1960s, classic yachts, After four races, the 105-foot Bruce King-designed , After four races, the 105-foot Bruce King-designed ketch, The spectacular 140-foot Frers ketch Robert Soros’ 65-foot Nat Benjamin , class with win in Traditional Class by just two points from Class B. Leo Goolden’s 25-foot Folkboat, April 13th through 19th, 2016. once a year. Boats come from all over the area to race for a US$500 prize and other gifts. A race day is enjoyed by everyone. People line the beaches and cheer their families on. Visiting cruisers get involved and also a few want to sail on the Haitian boats. A Race Day shows the abilities Haitians have. in April. The criteria were that the vessel had to be built on Ile-à-Vache and have sails that Friends of Ile-à-Vache Haiti had brought in over the last five years. prize were newer sail material from which sails could be made. Also T-shirts, hats, and other clothing were given. Lastly we invited all the participants over to our ves- sel for some Prestige — a local beer everyone, including our crew, likes. was third in class but did not finish the last race after a collision with Eli Fuller’s Robbie Fabre’s 1944, 42-foot German Frers ketch, 68-foot S&S , Mat Barker’s 1929, 65-foot , — lot of fun today, Sergio said, “Racing was a 1 class. On the last day to win line), around 40 were four classes (on the was incredibly critical. There and the start was a gener- I’ve ever done. The first start probably the hairiest start boats, so it was (the J/125 start, our main competitor al recall; the second April 15th through 21st. The fleet of 46 beautiful classic yachts included 15 entries April 15th through 21st. The fleet of 46 beautiful classic designed and launched racing in the Vintage Class, for yachts in original condition, of traditional rig and before World War II. Other classes were Classics (for boats sloops), Classic GRP appearance launched after WWII), Traditional (for Carriacou and Spirit of Tradition (for fiberglass boats descended from a wooden hull design), modern techniques and (for vessels recently built along “classic” lines but using The Spirit of materials; they may have modern underbodies and appendages). Tradition Class has a trophy structure of its own. Race attracted 20 entries. a stand-alone event on the 16th, as the Single Handed 44, Winner of the Under 45 Foot Class was Don Ward’s Luders ketch, Over Class was won by the 51-foot Aage Nielsen-designed awarded according to the condition of each yacht, including how close she is to awarded according to the condition of each yacht, including Shipyard Alliance Concours her original form. The overall winner for the Lunenberg d’Elegance was the 1925 Nat Herreshoff 64.5-foot schooner, were vying for victory for the last race. Griff Rhys Jones’ 1946, 56-foot Olin Stephens yawl, was pretty dramatic. But we had a great time, and the conditions suited us. It was time, and the conditions suited But we had a great was pretty dramatic. down the best great racing and hands We’ll be back next year; beautiful like usual. ever seen.” organization we’ve the captains and crews challenged each other to a had begun chartering and and back to celebrate the end of the charter season. race down to Guadeloupe Race Week was formalized in 1967. As the years From this informal race, Antigua were slowly outnumbered by modern racing yachts went on, the classic yachts Class had diminished to a few boats; it was aban- and 24 years later the Classic same year seven classic yachts turned out and were doned in 1987. However, that it the bareboats. The class was so unmatched that placed in Cruising Class 3 with so several classic skippers met and in 1988 the Antigua was downright dangerous, with seven boats. A star was born, and it is now inter- Classic Yacht Regatta began nationally famous. Class C. the winner of the Panerai Trophy for the second year in succession, having won the winner of the Panerai Trophy for the second year in Class A. every race and taken line honours in four starts in Classics Classics Class B. Sea-Mester’s magnificent 112-foot schooner, JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14

FABRICE THOMAZEAU BRUCE LEEMING set bythe140-footmodernschooner, Guadeloupe-to-Antigua Racein1hourand 27minutes,beatingthepreviousrecord Sailing forsails.HaitiansailorsvyingprizesofDacron,notsilver — trick” ofrecords. Antigua toparticipateinthreerecordattempts andhavesailedawaywitha“hat surprised bythequalityofthisspotandpromisedtoreturnnextyear. event discoveredMartiniqueandtheright-handersatBasse-Pointe.Theywereall surfing ontheisland.Thisaspectwasalsohighlysuccessful.Surfersregisteredforthis successful event.” and 10),whichishugeforaQSevent.ThisMartiniqueSurfProwasclearlytruly us theirfullpotential.Thejudgeshandedoutalmost100excellentscores(between 8 powerful andthereforeperfectforthiscompetition.Theyenabledthesurferstoshow Gunning, wentawaycompletelywonover:“AtBasse-Pointethewavesarelong and Qualification Series(QS)inthepastfewyears.TheWSLEuropeTourManager,Rob waves atBasse-PointeinoneofthefinesteventsseenWorldSurfLeague 106 competitors.Forfivedays,someoftheworld’stopsurfersbattleditouton the firstMartiniqueSurfProliveduptoandwentbeyondexpectations.Therewere joint thirdplace. Peruvian MiguelTudelaandAustralianCooperChapman,both20yearsold,took 2015. Twenty-one-year-oldSouthAfricanMichaelFebruarytooksecondplace,and won theonlyCaribbeanleginWorldSurfLeagueQualificationSeries(QS) grand finalofferedthrillingcontestsatBasse-Pointe.Intheend,18-year-oldMoniz SurfProQS3000. Sails fortheirsupport. men areabletokeeptheirvesselsinbettercondition.ThanksUKSailsandUllman Having verylittlekeel,theycanbebeachedeasily.Byreducingsailcoststhefisher- erations. Theirboatsaresimplebutwiththeirlongboomstheycansailupwind. current. Dacronsailsaremorereliableandcanberepairedatsea. blown out,afterwhichtheenginelesscrafthavenowaytogethomeagainst ther. Someareneverseenagain.Oneofthebiggestproblemsisweaksailsbeing wages. Asfishstocksbecomedepletedaroundtheisland,fishermengoouteverfar- tarps, bedsheetsandothermaterials.Ausedyachtsailrepresentsaboutayear’s 200 usedsailstodate,manyofwhichareinexcellentcondition. ging ropeandothersailpartssodesperatelyneededhere.UKSailshassuppliedover would nothavehappened.UllmanSailsalsodonatedthread,sewingneedles,rig- from Deltaville,Virginia.Withoutthegenerosityofthesesailcompaniesthisday On FridayApril24th,Thornburg’sMOD70 , In thedaysbeforeAntiguaRaceWeek2015 LloydThornburgandhisteamcameto Hat Trickfor Visit www.martiniquesurfpro.comformore information. One ofthemaingoalsMartiniqueSurfProwastoshowoffquality Exceptional waves,topclasssurfing,keenspectatorsandprofessionalorganization: On April25th,thefinaldayofMartiniqueSurfPro,twosemi-finalsand Hawaiian surferJoshuaMonizhaswonthefirsteditionofMartinique Martinique HostsWorldSurfQualifier Visit www.friendsofileavachehaiti.comformoreinformation. Haitians areexcellentsailorsandtheirseamanshiphasbeenpasseddownforgen- Fishermen inHaiticannotaffordmodernDacronsailsandresorttousingplastic All theusedsailsweredonatedbyeitherUKSailsinToronto,CanadaorUllman Continued frompreviouspage Phaedo3 Mari-Cha IV , by51minutes. Phaedo3 —Continued onnextpage , finishedthe JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

RACHEL JASPERSEN / TEAM PHAEDO PAUL WYETH WORLD CRUISING CLUB complet- record by was also the Phaedo3 —Continued on page 40 Sojana’s , crewed by the in 2010. Scarlet Oyster Sojana Scarlet Oyster , scored eight straight wins to win CSA 8, the Best created a new Around Antigua record with a time Around Antigua record with created a new went out for a record attempt on an 80-mile course record attempt on an 80-mile went out for a was the winner in CSA Racing 4 and the Best Caribbean was the winner in CSA Racing 4 and the Best Caribbean topped ASW’s Multihill division Flexible route options proved popular with multiple fleets

Phaedo3 Phaedo3 TAZ Sleeper/U-Go in 2009 with a time of 4 hours, 37 minutes and 43 seconds. time of 4 hours, 37 minutes in 2009 with a Sojana Timbalero 3 , locked up the victory in Antigua Sailing Week’s Multihull Racing division. , winning the Sunsail Trophy and a US$2,500 voucher from Sunsail for a future Continued from previous page Continued from Yippee — three Yippee — three records down! A bumper fleet of 51 boats from 20 nations set sail from Tortola with World Cruising The overall winner of the Bareboat Division and Bareboat 3 was Martin Sager’s KH+P With just one result all week lower than a first-place, Eduardo Perez’s G4, Visit www.yachtscoring.com for full results. Visit www.sailingweek.com for more information. Record Fleet for World Cruising Club’s Spring Rallies Visit www.teamphaedo.com for more information. 48th Antigua Sailing Week Round-Up Antigua Sailing Week In what were described as near-perfect tradewind conditions, Jonty Layfield’s CS40, On Sunday April 26th, On Sunday April On Saturday April 25th, On Saturday April Right side up, cruising in company. Club’s spring rallies — ARC Europe and ARC USA. Many yachts are sailing with ARC Europe and ARC USA as their final homeward-bound passages, returning after a win- ter of Caribbean cruising. Cayenne Best British Yacht and the Best Race Charter Yacht at Antigua Sailing Week, and won Best British Yacht and the Best Race Charter Yacht at Challenge. Bernie Evan- the inaugural Southern Yacht Club Inter-Yacht Club Wong’s Antiguan RP37 and Antiguan Boat in Start Boat A. Timbalero 3 Antigua Sailing Week charter. Guernsey Yacht Club was the winner of CSA Racing 5. Guernsey Yacht Club was the winner of CSA Racing 5. ed the course in 5 hours, 18 minutes and 58 seconds, beating ed the course in 5 hours, 18 minutes and 58 seconds, beating almost 2 hours. eight races for a healthy fleet 2015 ran from April 25th through May 1st with a series of of 116 boats in 13 classes. Antiguan and Caribbean Boat in Start Boat B and the prestigious Lord Nelson Trophy. Antiguan and Caribbean Boat in Start Boat B and the Also with eight wins, Ross Appleby’s Oyster 48, around Redonda. The previous record was set by around Redonda. The previous — of 3 hours, 26 minutes and 9 seconds. The previous record was set by the 115-foot previous record was set by minutes and 9 seconds. The of 3 hours, 26 monohull ketch JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16

ANNA LANDRY (2) ALEXIS ANDREWS the AntiguaClassics,heldApril15ththrough 20th.TherearefiveotherCarriacou- asked ustocrewforheronAndrewRobinson’s Carriacousloop, Dockyard. Allthemodernfacilitiesarethere, butwithanOldWorldcharm. the NationalParksAuthorityhasdone inrestoringandmaintainingNelson’s gaff schoonersandthelikearrivedinAntigua. It’swonderfultoseewhatagreatjob Nicholson cametoEnglishHarbourwith his masts, ,asightthatwouldhavebeen familiarinthe1950swhenCommander for about20years. of wind,butsheisuptoit.Forme,arrivinginAntiguawasnostalgic,asIlivedthere it isanewandchallengingexperience,beatingtowindwardinsometimes25knots off EnglishHarbouronelateafternoon.ForAnna,aCanadianartistlivinginBequia, off bywayofBequia,St.PierreinMartiniqueandDeshaiesGuadeloupe,toarrive Yacht Regattaaswell?So,soonfriendshavedeparted,AnnaLandryandI set and whichmay(andinfactdoes)givemuchcredittotheEnoefamilyofboatbuilders. boats, by Frank Pearce use. Shelooksgrandandwellbuilt. limited means,isalsobuildinga45-footwoodenmotorfishingvesselforhisown Farther backalongtheroadVerol,ayoungmantakingonmammothtaskwith larger: a70-footcargovesselbeingbuiltbyFitzroy“Nero”McLarenisinframes. Compton andothers.SheisdestinedtobebasedinSt.Barth.Theothermuch and isbeingbuiltbyKarlTerry,thesonsofAlwynEnoe,assistedVerol a verypretty-lookingsloopofabout40feet,isalreadyplankedup.Shewasdesigned of caulkingmallets?Thewhineplaners? it’s veryquietinthevillage,butaswewalkalong,whatisthathear?Theringing building friendsinthevillageofWindward. makes usappreciativeofthelifewelead,sohadtointroducethemourboat- North AmericaandtheCaribbean The AntiguaClassicisashowcaseforhigh-profiletraditionalsailboatsfromEurope, We anchorinOrdnanceBayandmake contactwithMaiwennBeadle,whohas Approaching theEnglishHarbourentrance, rowsofwoodenmastsappear,top- We realizethatwejusthavetogoSt.Barth,andwhynottakeinAntiguaClassic A ClassicWarm-Up All thetalkisaboutAlexisAndrews’documentaryfilmCaribbeanworking At NormanRoberts’beachfrontland,wefindtwowoodenvesselsbeingbuilt.One, Two buseslater,wearriveinWindwardandwalkalongthecoastalroad.Asever, Having friendsfromtheUKvisitusaboard Antigua andSt.BarthKeepTraditionfromVanishing Vanishing Sail , which is to be premiered in St. Barth at the West Indies Regatta , whichistobepremieredinSt.BarthattheWestIndiesRegatta A sweetfleetofisland-builtvesselslinesGustavia’squayatthe2015WestIndiesRegatta Mollyhawk Samadhi andotherfriendswitholder A BraceofRegattas inTyrellBay,Carriacou Summer Cloud , in smallest competitoris screaming pastonareachwith30crewtherail.Butit’snotallaboutsize; Hamilton is aforcetobereckonedwith. II based photographerLucyTullochandsetsailforSt.Barth.Although News, pages12through15.) Racing Class. the smallestyacht! out fromEuropebyLeoGoolden,heryoungowner.Shedeservesthebiggestcupfor to seaandbacktwice,whenmassiveschoonerssuchas beauty, especiallyduringtheracecalled“Cannon”—coursetakesoneout built boatscompetingwitheachother,and46entriesoverall. mentary filmonCaribbeanboatbuilding, schooner, standing woodenboats:theketches large openareaforeventsashore.They are joinedbysomenon-competingbutout- for theevent. Beauty May 3rd. in Gustavia,closetotheactionofWestIndiesRegatta,heldApril30ththrough a workingboat,sheisatleastschoonerandsoweareallowedtomooronthequay mallets and adze, using lines taken from a half model that they have created. mallets andadze,usinglinestakenfrom a halfmodelthattheyhavecreated. Enoe sonsareallthere,watchingthefilm and seeingthemselvesworkingwithcaulking The Carriacousloop at thehelm , anactivelyworking(fishing)Carriacousloop,whowhendonningherracingsails Along withtheCarriacou-builtboatsisNevis-builtschooner After afewdaysrecuperationanchoredinNonsuchBay,wearejoinedbyAntigua- The WestIndiesRegatta We camesecond,twopointsbehind Good winds,hardracingandgreatentertainmentashoresomuchvisual The eventstartsintheeveningwithshowing ofAlexisAndrews’spectaculardocu- The woodenCarriacouboatsareallberthed stern-toatthedock,wherethereisa Another long-distancetravellercompetingisCyril“UncleC”Compton’s We arejoinedbyMaiwenn,whohasflownupandarrangedtosailthesloop , whichherowner,JeffStevens,hassailed350milesfromPetitSt.Vincent , lookinggrandandintimidatingwithher newsails. Avenger (See moredetailsontheAntiguaClassicYachtRegatta2015in . Genesis Lorema , withisland-boatbuildingadvocateAlexisAndrews , aclinker-builtFolkboatat25feetondeckandsailed Genesis Gaucho Vanishing Sail and , intheCarriacouSloops’Traditional Woodwind . [ See reviewonpage35 —Continued onnextpage Elena , andTomGallant’s andthe“J”sgo Samadhi Margeta O Alexander isnot .] The .] The JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

ANNA LANDRY

, he ) wonder- Genesis Exodus Flying Buzzard Woodwind is there in her glory as is there in her Tradition that is!). and, in the background, Beauty Sweetheart , Ray Linnington, Nevis , Andrew Robinson, Antigua , Cyril Compton, Carriacou , Charles Morgan/Sam Duce, Antigua WINNERS OF , Laurance Gumbs, Anguilla , Phillipe Fabre, Antigua is trailed by has brought up a cargo of fresh fruit and vegetables for sale, up a cargo of fresh fruit and has brought , Grenada , Alexis Andrews, Antigua , Maewenn Beadle / Jeff Stevens, Petite Martinique , Eli Fuller, Antigua Tradition Margeta O II Laser Alexander Hamilton Summer Cloud Exodus Sweetheart Tradition Genesis Beauty Zemi 1) 1) 1) 1) 1) 2) 3) under sail, and of course there are Bruce Smith’s (of under sail, and of course there and she shows herself to be fast ( and she shows Most Beautiful Boat Spirit of the Regatta Most Kids on Board Traditional Class Fishing Boat Class Cargo Boat Class Schooner Class Carriacou Sloop Class WEST INDIES REGATTA 2015 Continued from previous page Continued from During the day, there is much artisanal work on display. Ray Linnington of work on display. Ray there is much artisanal During the day, one’s own drum”, the massive steel tug And talking of “marching to Visit westindiesregatta.com for more information on the West Indies Regatta. Friends then depart in various directions, many faced with the long beat back to On the last day of the West Indies Regatta 2015 there are two races, between which On the last day of the West Indies Regatta 2015 there are On the Sunday evening at the Anglican Church there is a wonderful melancholy On the Sunday evening at the Anglican Church there That evening we enjoy a barbecue and socializing at the home of Jenny and Loulou That evening we enjoy a barbecue and socializing at the On the quay, friends meet and there is talk of , handy billies, gantlines, On the quay, friends meet and there is talk of deadeyes, Racing starts the following day. The 50-foot sloop the following day. The 50-foot Racing starts Alexander Hamilton Alexander Hamilton of painting Anna Bolton is in the process her wonderful leatherwork, Annalea has Sweetheart fully eccentric paintings. (A hot tip here: Bruce’s work will be valuable in time to hot tip here: Bruce’s work will be valuable in time fully eccentric paintings. (A the But Bruce is too busy to paint — swooping around come; think Canute Calliste.) the playing a steel pan suspended in front of himself at area on his roller skates and same time. The mighty Also see Facebook. Antigua, PSV or Carriacou. But it’s worth it. all boats raft up in the bay of Colombier for lunch and celebration — plenty music, all boats raft up in the bay of Colombier for lunch and and then prizegiving, where it plenty swimming. A slightly bleary race back to base seems everyone got something. recital by the singer/guitarist Damien Rice, which brings us down to earth a bit — recital by the singer/guitarist Damien Rice, which brings has devoted so much of his time to reflect on our good fortune that Alexis Andrews of his sloop time and energy to make all this happen. With the building and although the pace has started a revival of the flagging boatbuilding in Carriacou, to see the new sloop sailing, slackened, there are vessels being built. I can’t wait must get back to Carriacou again, soon. Magras, who have given so much time and effort over the years to make the West Magras, who have given so much time and effort over it may never have happened Indies Regatta such a special event and without whom on the quay, French style in the first place. This is followed by a local band playing young band Sound Citizens — accordion, singers lively but not brash — and then the from Antigua who played music to suit all tastes. garboards and throat bolts — so much so that the atmosphere almost smells of garboards and throat bolts — so much so that the evening with Carib in hand tarred marlin. Bruce’s mannequin is dressed up for the below with her leg stuck out and gown blowing in the wind; that’s when she is not of the porthole. What you up to, Bruce? — the starting boat; having guests on board and with her heavy rig (including a 36-foot and with her heavy rig (including having guests on board the starting boat; (A little note When she does, she is fast. she is not competing today. main !) with and sloop carries a why even when a Carriacou here. I wonder for Maiwenn on a cutter?) Anna and I crew still called a sloop and not she is Beauty tug, she had been at Antigua Classics). A former steam was our committee boat (as 300 by her owners, Julie (Jules) and Mike, at least built in the UK and re-engined at the finishing line — she is part salvage boat, part feet long — or so it seemed her indefatigable owners. charter and mostly home to JUNE 2015 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 called PortMorganHotel,ownedbyaFrenchcouplewhoarrivedsailboat15years much aspossible. needed. Duringtheninedayswewerethere,triedtodistributeworkloadas boat, gettingwater,diesel,food,takeyouaroundtheisland—“enfin”,whateverwe French, theywerequicktolisttheservicesoffered—laundry,washing hand signals,French…whateverworked.Oncetheyrealizedwebothspokesome tee. Beautifulfaceswithfullsmiles,tryingtocommunicateabitofEnglish, anchor. Oncewehadsettledin,turnedourattentiontothewelcomingcommit- dugout canoesfollowedusin,holdingontotheboatevenbeforewehaddropped tainous silhouette.WehadfinallyarrivedinHaiti. to findwhatappearedbeparadise.Whitecliffsandcoconuttreeslinedamoun- to portandheadednorth,madeourwaythenorthwesterntipofisland, last month’s through theWindwardPassage(see“SmoothSailinginPassage” unaccounted for. this day,thecountryhasnotrecovered,andmillionsofdollarsaidmoneyremain Port-au-Prince, andbringingmoresufferingtothealreadydeprivedpopulation.To a magnitude7.0earthquake,killingcloseto300,000people,levelingthecapital notorious inmoderntimes(1957–1986). lation throughouttheyears,withPapaDocandBabyDuvalierbeingmost ernment. Aseriesofcorruptandviolentdictatorsexploitedrepressedthepopu- a hundredyearstopayitoff,atthecostofdestabilizingandimpoverishinggov- ised torecognizethenewstateifadebtFrenchslaveholderswaspaid.Ittookover established, withthemulattoesseizingwealthandpoliticalpower.Franceprom- of thewhiteminority,andsoonanewtwo-caste(blacksmulattoes)systemwas it createdanindependentgovernment.Thenewgovernmentorderedthemassacre successful slaverebellioninhistory.Iteliminatedslavery,itestablishedastate,and tory. In1804,theslavesrebelledagainstFrenchcolonizers,whichledtoonly Republic. Sincehistorydefineswhomwebecome,hereisalittlebitofHaitianhis- western partoftheislandHispaniola,whichitshareswithDominican The anchorageandthescenerywerebreathtaking.Thereisahoteluponhill Our arrivalatIle-à-Vache,specificallyPortMorgan,wasintense.Manykidsin After sailingour42-footsloop, As ifsuchaviolentandunequalhistorywasnotenough,in2010Haitihitby Haiti isthepoorestcountryinwesternhemisphere;itoccupiessmaller by Monica Pisani Joy andHope Hardship, Haiti: Ile-à-Vache, Compass ), CaptainJonathanandIfinallysawIle-à-Vache.Weturned Journey , 250nauticalmilesfromGreatInagua

DESTINATIONS inches offreeboard,andatarptoprotectusfromthewaves,ifneeded. tourists dressedintheirkhakis.Withtheboatpackedovercapacity,weonlyhadsix wooden boat;wewereabout25people,mostlylocalswearingbrightcolorsandafew he arrangedforaboattopickusupateighto’clockthenextmorning.Itwassmall complete pictureofthecountry.WearrangedwithJean-Jeantobeourguide,and their advice;itwasnotasalespitch. were togoLesCayes.Wedidthemainland,andwegladfollowed boat. Localstoldusnottotakeourboat,andaguidefromtheislandifwe sidering thattheclosestofficeisonmainland,almostanhourawaybymotor- go throughCustoms/Immigration.Thegovernmentseemstobeacceptingthis,con- German, andveryfewAmericans.MostoftheboatsthatstopatIle-à-Vachedonot are fresh.Itwasdeliciousandtheexperienceimpossibletoforget. were requiredsincethereisnorefrigeration,sothechicken,fishandlobster We wenttoLesCayes,thesecondlargestcityinHaiti,becausewewantedamore There wasaconstantflowofboats,mostlywithFrenchandCanadianflags,some Haitian dailylife we startedtofeeltheweightof welcome andsafe.Asdayspassed, Below: Peoplewerequitefriendly,wefelt what appearedtobeparadise Left: Whitesails,whitecliffs…wefound Reservations andorderingthedaybefore while kidsandchickensranabout. at Jean-Jean’stwicewithotheryachties, where heoffersmealstovisitors.Weate owns ahouseontherightsideofbay, country thatoffersverylittle.Jean-Jean Haitians tryingtomakealivingin kids. Heisoneofthemanyresourceful big smile,marriedwithtwobeautiful cooking onmakeshiftoutdoorstoves. their fishingnets,andthewomenwere were runningaround,menfixing noon inthelifeofafishingvillage—kids and safe.Itseemedlikeanormalafter- ple werequitefriendly,wefeltwelcome we walkedalongtheonlydirtroad,peo- and thekidshavetopaygoschool.As sewer, noelectricity,runningwater, economically deprivedarea:ithasno anchorage islocated.Itobviouslyan spelled CailleCoqorKaKock),wherethe ago. ThemainvillageisKayKok(also Early on,wemetJean-Jean,niceman, —Continued onnextpage JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 St. Vincent & the Grenadines MARINA - WATER - ICE - LAUNDRY - WATER MARINA 2 minutes to Custom & Immigration Clearance Don’t say you’ve been to the Caribbean, the to been you’ve say Don’t visit you Grenadines The until 3 Nights Stay w/Breakfast • 1 Waterfront Dinner for 2 3 Nights Stay w/Breakfast • 1 Waterfront US$599 • 20% OFF to Caricom Residents & Students Above: The anchorage and the scenery were breathtaking 1 All-Inclusive Boat Trip to the Tobago Cays • Bottle of Bubble on Arrival Cays • Bottle of Bubble on Tobago to the Trip All-Inclusive Boat 1 www.unionanchorage.com facebook.com/unionanchorage +1.784.458.8221 ANCHORAGE YACHT CLUB • UNION ISLAND We treasured the opportunity to be in Haiti, to meet its beautiful gentle people who We treasured the opportunity to be in Haiti, to meet its Ile-à-Vache, was “we found My first impression of Kay Kok, as we first arrived at pens and pencils, crayons, If a visit to Ile-à-Vache is in your plans, take notebooks, On our way to the orphanage a second time, we went through the island’s market, we went through the island’s the orphanage a second time, On our way to in second visit. A very small woman, she was dressed We met Sister Flora on our a ride on Caesar’s father’s wooden , a type To return to Kay Kok, we caught Left: In the absence of cars and trucks on the island, donkeys are a common sight Left: In the absence of cars and trucks on the island, donkeys was taking back what was left over. In the boat, space was a rare commodity; we was taking back what was left over. In the boat, space and shoes. During the were all sitting on top of, or stepping on, fruits, grains, the boat, although the four of 45-minute boat ride a few waves found their way into the feelings that flooded us barely moved. We were quiet, deep in thought, distilling our hearts and disturbed our almost perfect lives. much from them, and we will always wore their biggest smiles. We have learned so never forget our visit. of the Haitian daily life; we paradise”. As days passed, we started to feel the weight lack of access to some of the witnessed the constant struggle of its inhabitants, the health care, and transporta- most basic necessities such as water, food, education, they figured out how to tion. However, no matter how difficult it was, somehow, hope. Such resilient people. endure the hardships, and somewhere they find joy and Such a difficult life. Such an unequal world. need everything. old sails, clothes, toys, anything you can spare. They We wanted to visit and volunteer some time doing whatever she needed done. The time doing whatever she needed visit and volunteer some We wanted to Kok. We asked a two-hour walk from Kay the orphanage is located was village where us there. We from Ile-à-Vache, to take the few high school students Caesar, one of and mango lined with banana, coconut, morning, we walked roads met early in the fishing vil- by mangroves, and through up and down hills, passed trees, we went school in their heavy loads, kids going to donkeys carrying lages. We encountered near the well and women washing clothes men tilling the land, colorful uniforms, life! — such a different vegetables were The grains, fruits, and no other we had seen before. a market like next to animals, mud, and trash, with no concept of basic displayed on the dirt, right comprehension. hygiene. Poverty beyond our up silver cross around her neck, and she wore her hair a white habit with a simple and frail, when she spoke, you could feel her strength in a bun. Although she looked She of her children with immense love and concern. the size of her heart. She spoke many things such as toys, lotions, and personal hygiene said the orphanage needed the best gift. Please check their website (www.caissede- items, but that money was on for details bienfaisancecn.com/events/en/orphelinat_soeur_flora_haiti.sn?igl=e) We were there all day, and we did the work they how to donate, if you are interested. experience and an emotionally intense day. asked us to do; it was a humbling and He was at the market selling a variety of items, known for its super-large sails. Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE Continued from previous page Continued from In 1974 Sister Flora, a French Canadian nun, started an orphanage at Ile-à-Vache. In 1974 Sister Flora, a French Canadian nun, started After we were through Customs, we were finally free to visit the famous market. It After we were through Customs, we were finally free to Les Cayes is dirty and chaotic; it has no running water or sewer; its streets are Les Cayes is dirty and chaotic; it has no running water After almost an hour, we arrived at our destination. As we approached land, we destination. As we approached hour, we arrived at our After almost an was immense. You can buy just about anything there: medicine, clothing, shoes, was immense. You can buy just about anything there: meat, and the list goes on. toys, fruits, vegetables, cement, grains, bread, chicken, our way back to where the We bought a few things at the market, and started on obvious restaurants in sight, boat was. We were all hungry, and since there were no at the dining-room table in Jean-Jean took us to a home that served lunch. We sat we all had fried fish and rice. someone’s living room with a few local students, and day at Les Cayes. The food was fine, but it took some time to digest that barely paved and there is hardly a sidewalk. The air was thick with dust; the town barely paved and there is hardly a sidewalk. The air overload. looked grey, and had a strong foreign smell. It was sensory realized there was no dock, and we would be landing on top of compressed garbage be landing on top of compressed was no dock, and we would realized there to a second filthy. We were transferred the ocean milky grey and and dirt, making close to shore. each other as it was poled we stood and held on to boat, in which taken off the locals and tourists alike were what was happening, Before we realized waist-deep everyone ashore through of young men, who carried boat on the backs we felt. close to describing what a buck. Words cannot come water to make — JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 over ourmorningbrew. together, butwestillenjoyeachother’scompanyandhavelotstotalkabout coffee-haven moment,wejustchilloutandtalkaboutlife.Yes,dospend24/7 lurking isahugelistofboatprojectsthatarewaitingforustotacklethem.Inour can lieinbedandrelaxdrinkourcoffeepeace,sinceweknowthatoutthere and deliversittoourstateroom.Wealwaysappreciatethistimeoftheday,whenwe or cold,weloveit!Everymorning,BillmakescoffeeforthetwousinaFrenchpress we mustconfess,areaddictedtothiscaffeineinfusion.Whetheritisservedhot It remindedusofarumdistillery. growing, harvesting,roasting,grindingand tastingofcoffee.Absolutelyfascinating! guide escortedusthrough,anddelivered anextremelyinformativeexplanationofthe amazing toseetheriverharnessedand theentirefacilityrunbywaterpower.Our still usestheoriginalmachinerytosort and processtheverybestcoffeebeans.Itis cloud forest,wascrisp,coolairandthe La VictoriaCoffeeFarm. tains. WearrivedfirstinthevillageofMinca, andthenfartherup,justshyofthe holes thanflatsurfacesandsnakeditsway upintotheSierraNevada’smistymoun- Marta inthebackofafour-wheel-drivevehicle;roadseemedtohavemorepot- beautiful coffeeplantation,FincaLaVictoria,withitsamazinghistory. Cuba, Panama,CostaRica,HondurasandColombia. favorite coffeesduringourtravelsincludethosefromtheCaribbean—Guadeloupe, day. Wehavetriedhundredsofdifferentcoffeesfromaroundtheworld.Some our You mighthaveanicknameforcoffee:MorningMud,JetFuel,orBrainJuice.Well, Built originallybyaBritishcompanyin 1892andnamedafterQueenVictoria,it It wasanadventurousbutbone-jarringridefromthedryseasidecityofSanta Recently, wehadamonth-longColombianadventurethatincludedtourof a La VictoriaCoffeeFarm,Colombia We considerourselvescoffeeconnoisseurs,andwedrinktwoorthreecupsper The Daily Grind, Caribbean Style: Caribbean DailyGrind, The in theWorld! Some ofthe Some Best CoffeeBest by BillandJoAnneHarris ALL ASHORE… —Continued onnextpage JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 Agents for: Long 62º 50.1’ W Lat 17º 20.3’ N Lat 17º 20.3’ W Long 62º 50.1’ Haul & Storage Haul & Haul and Launch $ 11 / ft. Haul and Launch $ 11 - FREE high speed Wifi. . Beat the Hurricane season rush. Have access . Beat the Hurricane season Our 164 ton Travel Lift has ability to lift boats up to 35 ft Our 164 ton Travel “QUALITY SERVICE AT A GREAT PRICE” GREAT A AT SERVICE “QUALITY BOAT YARD BOAT LOCATED AT NEW GUINEA, ST.KITTS GUINEA, ST.KITTS NEW AT LOCATED LO St. Kitts Marine Works Marine St. KittsSS www.skmw.net E-mail: [email protected] Cell: 1 (869) 662 8930 REGULAR HOURS FOR HAUL: Thurs 8am to 3pm, Fridays 8am to Noon Monday to Special - 5% discount for full payment. Special - 5% discount for full Storage $ 8 / ft / month at any time and not get stuck behind other boats. to your vessel to be launched to put keel down down available ($3/ft), backhoe available ($100/hr) to dig hole Tie and ($45/hr), Welding in etc. Pressure wash, Mechanics ($45/hr), Electricians Carpenters available. wide and 120 feet long. No charge for . allow you to do your own work on your boat. We Payments – Cash (EC or US$) Visa, Mastercard, Discover & travellers checks (must sign in front of completely fenced property with CCTV. 24 hr manned Security, us with ID) available. and electricity Water , S/V Finisterre JoAnne with a coffee-lover’s dream — big bins of beans, ready to be bagged or roasted . They enjoy writing cruis- S/V Ultra tradition is to always sample the local beer, coffee and rum of all of the Ultra Continued from previous page Continued from JoAnne and Bill Harris are from Clear Lake, Texas and both hold 100-ton USCG Our Mike has perfected his hobby of coffee roasting and, after taking the reins a few Well, recently while here in Bocas Del Toro, we were blessed to have the great Our Coffee Roasting Opportunity Now we are in Panama. In all of our years of cruising, we had never had the oppor- If you ever get the opportunity to tour this coffee plantation, you must do it. You The farm has dealt with an extremely troubled past riddled with terror and death. The farm has dealt with an extremely troubled past riddled La Victoria has an amazing history and is truly resilient. We have heard that coffee truly resilient. We have heard an amazing history and is La Victoria has The premium coffee we sampled and purchased at the end of the tour was exqui- at the end of the tour coffee we sampled and purchased The premium Previous page: Coffee beans from raw to roasted, and vintage processing machinery At Finca La Victoria, a fresh ripe coffee berry in hand ing articles and sharing their experiences. To follow their sailing adventures visit www.jandbyachtultraadventure.blogspot.com Master licenses and sail aboard their trimaran, places we visit. Next time you sit down with a cup of coffee, savor the moment and remember how much love and care was taken to produce some of the best coffees in the world. a Caribbean cup of Joe; it is sure to perk you up! years ago, has kept the delicious tradition of Bocas Marina & Yacht Club Coffee production going. He buys the green coffee beans from a farm in Boquete, Panama. Roasting is a delicate process and it takes special care to roast them to perfection. We helped make French, Vienna and Traditional Roasts. As each batch was roasted and somewhat cooled, JoAnne and Kay proceeded to bag and tag all of the batches pound by pound. with their passion for roasting coffee. We met them for the first time in Grenada several years ago and were delighted to meet up with them once again. opportunity to help our friends and fellow cruisers, Mike and Kay of tunity to participate in the coffee bean roasting process. The roasting process is what brings out the amazing flavor and aromas, as well as the beautiful spectrum of colors of the beans. By varying the heat, different coffee flavors, such as Vienna or French roast, can be achieved. Green coffee beans are heated to between 350 and 465 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 to 20 minutes. Higher temperature roasting will generate darker color and more intense aroma and flavor. will not be disappointed — it is a great hike and a wonderful education. The families located in the surrounding pueblos once witnessed unbelievable vio- The families located in the surrounding pueblos once guerillas (FARC) were in lence and kidnappings on a daily basis. The revolutionary being involved in drug traf- the jungle actively taking prisoners, killing hundreds and and their employees, the ficking through this region. To protect their investment came to an agreement to end coffee farm owners negotiated with the guerillas and on the working families. They the violence against La Victoria and to have mercy workers in the village and that explained that the farm was supporting hundreds of to thrive in peace. While the guerillas should spare them and allow their business to realize the violence that visiting this serene emerald green paradise, it was hard had once taken place here. is not the easiest thing to produce. Weather, disease, earthquakes, volcanoes, war disease, earthquakes, thing to produce. Weather, is not the easiest After the full of trials and tribulations. have made this profession and other factors restarted in 1950 by a German couple who ran it until founders left, La Victoria was his wife Claudia then took over. 2002. Their son, Micky, and site! It is all exported, except for what is sold to the coffee farm tourists. The hill of sold to the coffee farm tourists. except for what is site! It is all exported, is sold to see in the parking lot is what and “thirds” that you beans of “seconds” for Colombian coffee. the Colombians — furnaces include the numerous vats, many, and the similarities We have visited that propel them. the tremendous water sources and of course

JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 VAUGHAN-RICHARDS tional businessman,MauriceGibbs.Withhim,she taboos, beforesettlingdownwithrespectableinterna- She fellinlovewithamarriedman,breakingmany that womenweretreatedaslessimportantthanmen. William Cumming,shewasbornarebel,didnotlike both aristocraticandrich.TheeldestchildofSir 1932 itwasanhour-and-a-halfrideonaricketybus. from PortsmouthtoCalibishieinabout20minutes.In ing thetwohalvesofisland.Todayyoucandrive political achievementswasthebuildingofaroadlink- best optionwasthegovernmentlaunch.OneofElma’s ing linkedthetwo.Totravelfromonetoother network surroundedRoseauandthesouth,butnoth- Portsmouth throughCalibishietoMarigot,andaroad Indies. Inthosedaysaroadofsortsranfrom to alegislativecouncilintheentireBritishWest postage stampforbeingthefirstwomaneverelected the 25-acrePointeBaptisteEstate. built byElmaandLennoxNapierin1934,ispartof peeking overthetopofvegetation.Thishouse, small darkishbeach,asteephill,andhousejust island, andlookbacktowardtheland,youwillseea Pointe Baptiste,Calibishie,onthenorthcoastof opened oneandoffereditaround.Itwaswonderful. I boughttwoand,beinghungryafterhoursofhiking, at thebottomitsaid“Producer:AlanNapier,Calibishie.” Baptiste Estate,DarkChocolate80%”.Insmallprint wrapped inplasticwithadecorativelabel:“Pointe near theRossMedicalSchool.Ispiedbarsofchocolate my companionsandIstoppedattheIGAsupermarket

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia Elma wasborninScotland1892intoafamily Elma isaniconicfigureinDominica,featuredona If youstandontheeasternpartofredrocksat After arecenthikeinDominica’sSyndicateForest,

Tel: (758)4520299

Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. by ChrisDoyle WithHistory aChocolateTour In Dominica, FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE ALL ASHORE… Fax:(758)4520311 Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners e-mail:[email protected] Everything wascarriedupthehillbyhand. dumped intheseaandallowedtodriftashore. by localboats,butafterapaydispute,therestwas anchored offshore.Thefirstpartswereraftedashore sailed toPointBaptisteonalocalsloop,which for themainhousewasprefabricatedinRoseauand built. Thewoodenframeandtongue-and-groovewood tage wheretheycouldlivewhilethehousewasbeing a roundthatchedshelter,whiletheybuiltsmallcot- house. Tooverseetheworktheystartedbycampingin on Amazon.Itincludesdetailsofthebuilding CHRIS DOYLE (2) fully toldinherbook action intheSecondWorldWar).Thisstoryisbeauti- stayed inEngland,becameapilotandwaskilled daughter byherearliermarriage,Daphne.(Ronald their children,PatriciaandMichael,Elma’s a CaribbeansojournforLennox’shealth. could beherself.TheyfellinlovewithDominicaduring Lennox. WithLennox,Elmadidnothavetoadapt:she scandalous, stepElmadivorcedMauriceandmarried simple lifestyle.Inamajorand,inthatera(1924), had travelledandfalleninlovewithTahitiits politics, interestedinartandliterature,amanwho nessman butalsoabohemianwithsomewhatradical turned aroundwhenshemetLennoxNapier,abusi- had twochildren,DaphneandRonald.Herlifewas island flavors The finishedproduct:chocolatebarsinfusedwith process tovisitors Alan Napier,atcenter,explainshiscacao-beandrying A viewofthehistoricseasideestate Clockwise frombelow: They boughtlandandstartedanewlifeherewith Black andWhiteSands —Continued onnextpage Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint , available JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 We bought a stack of chocolate bars and left happy. This was my most exciting chocolate tour since the Alan welcomed us and we were taken on a spectacu- us and we were taken on Alan welcomed showed us his very In the chocolate house, Alan household machine built for making dahl in and household machine built for making dahl in India and strengthened commercially to take the greater strains of making chocolate. Using a household press, he squeezes out the cocoa butter, needed for enriching the chocolate, leaving a rich cocoa for making the drink. Outside we visited the tiny cocoa drying station, and the boxes used for fermenting the beans. Alan grows some of his own cocoa and when he needs more, he buys it from neighboring farms. Having bought and enjoyed Alan’s 80-percent chocolate, I was astonished to find he produces all kinds of flavors, some sug- gested to him by customers: mint, ginger, candied ginger, spice, hot pepper, tangerine, coffee, lemon- grass, crunch bar (with roasted chocolate flakes), and even a milk chocolate bar. We sampled these with great delight. Grenada Chocolate factory. Alan welcomes visitors. Call to make sure the time is convenient ([767] 225- 5378). He also offers a lovely cottage for rent (the same one that Elma and Lennox built and stayed in with their kids while the main house was under construc- tion). Alan has kept the whole estate much as it was in the time of his grandparents, although modern conve- niences such as electricity have been added. For chocolate lovers there is good news: Alan is working on a new building for his chocolate production. He will be buying a larger chocolate grinder and increasing pro- duction, which will mean more delicious chocolate for all of us. phytes. Alan emerged from the bush, with blond beard from the bush, with phytes. Alan emerged bare chested, hair, barefooted, and and slightly unruly belt whose shorts held up with a long wearing beige look — if gave him a somewhat piratical dangling end malice than a a pirate with no more you can imagine teddy bear. orange and the gardens, past brilliant lar tour through blue sea, and merging into the mauve bougainvillea an exhibi- house where a neighbor had into the great tion of paintings and photos. for roasting the cocoa and basic equipment: a gas ring turning it into paste — a a tiny grinding machine for The Spice and In 2008, Alan returned to Dominica and not being satis- fied with the locally available chocolate, he started making his own. This is a very small-scale operation, producing only about 60 chocolate bars every three days, using very basic equipment ‘Alan emerged from the bush, with blond beard and slightly unruly hair, barefooted, and bare chested… he welcomed us and we were taken on a spectacular tour through the gardens’ Embarrassment of Mangoes and Ann’s partner, Steve Manley. We were Even though you will see his bars for sale in a few I visited Pointe Baptiste Estate with Bequia artist We emerged from the closed interior of Paul’s bus In 2008, Alan returned to Dominica to live and to returned to Dominica to In 2008, Alan fail to make anything grow” and that “I found myself fail to make anything grow” and that “I found myself among those whose rabbits practise birth control, whose goat strangles itself”, Alan is adept at making things grow and keeps wonderful gardens, both for decoration and food, including organic cocoa. Not sat- isfied with the locally available chocolate, he started making his own. supermarkets and cafés, this is, at the moment, a very small-scale operation, producing only about 60 bars every three days, mostly in his kitchen — and provided the machinery is working. Pinky Vaughan-Richards, food writer Ann Vanderhoof (author of Necklace) taken there by Paul, driving the Providence taxi — a good choice because he visits often and loves the chocolate! into a lovely garden of a hundred shades of green, interspersed with splashes of bright color. Tall trees provide shade and homes for branches full of epi- each year with his father and their holidays became his father and their holidays each year with up with parties, trying to keep more like working formed a last- on the aging property. He maintenance stronger the area, one that would prove ing bond with birth, or to England, the country of his than his ties to including places he had visited, any of the exotic India, Austria and Jordan. Turkey, , Estate. run the historic Pointe Baptiste maintain and Like Elma suits him perfectly. The relaxed atmosphere Pool to help pre- and Lennox, who bought Chaudiere in conservation and serve the area, Alan believes grandmother, who declared organic farming. Unlike his that “even people I employ herself so poor at gardening Black , Elma writes about the arrival of the , Elma writes Continued from previous page Continued from Michael’s son, Alan, first visited Pointe Baptiste Michael went off to study in England, and although he Daphne and Patricia stayed in Dominica, married Elma and Lennox were liberal and bohemian, unlike were liberal and bohemian, Elma and Lennox when he was six months old with his father and when he was six months old with his father and mother, Josette. It was the first of many holiday visits when he would enjoy the red rocks, the black and white beaches, and the rivers and forest around his grandmother’s home. On one visit, he stayed a whole year with his grandmother. After she died, he returned returned for holidays, he did not live again in Dominica. When Elma died in 1973, Point Baptiste Estate was left to him, and he turned it into a guesthouse. and settled down. Patricia married Ted Honychurch and settled down. Patricia married Ted Honychurch and today their son Lennox is Dominica’s best-known historian; he orchestrated the restoration of Fort Shirley at the Cabrits Marine Park. and Lennox also fell in love with what is today another and Lennox also fell in love with what is today another popular visitor site, Chaudiere Pool. They bought the surrounding land to help conserve it, and built a house there. (Some vestiges of the old house founda- tion may be seen, but the house itself was abandoned and rotted into the forest when a new owner bought the land.) and White Sands the beach to who was directed to Methodist minister in the nude, Napiers, sunbathing find them: “Four by a series made aware of his presence were eventually and They were rich, aristocratic, of discreet coughs.”) their house, with many friends, and well-travelled, its view out grand 70-foot balcony with especially the visitors of all kinds, from to sea, became a magnet for such as Somerset humble locals to luminaries Rhys, Peter Fleming, and Maugham, Alec Waugh, Jean occasional royal. Elma Noel Coward, along with the most of white Dominican society at this time. (In Dominican society at this time. most of white — JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 The once-deadlyMontPeléeloomsovertheanchorageatSt.Pierre,Martinique. pond, toreachtheBoilingLake,steaming inthedistance. minutes, acrossahot,milky-coloredriver withasmallwaterfallandhot-water gases constantlyescapingtheearth’scrust. desolate, hellish,devoidoflife.Notmany plantsgrowhereowingtothepoisonous patterns ofcolorsandshapes.Theentire landscapeinthevalleyisbarrenand white, othersgreylikelead,inexplicably black,creatingstunningabstract have everseen,smelledandgonethrough, withhot-waterstreams—somemilky- smells sharplyofsulfur.Itisalsoone themostmysteriousandbeautifulplacesI would bemyenchantedriver. little hissinggeysers.Thesmallstreamthatrunsthroughandbeneaththeground boiling, smellysulfur-waterspoutsemittingvapors.Iwouldhideincracksnear the returned. Fromunderground. against drizzleandcold.ButassoonwereachedtheValleyofDesolationheat ter andaguide. or threerock-scrambles.Weevenmetawomaninherlate70swithgranddaugh- sion ofsectionsgoingupanddown,insteadaconstantuphillhike,just two have hikedsofar,withlotsandofconvenientstepswoodorstone,asucces- afraid of.ThetrailallthewaytoBoilingLakeisoneofmoststraightforward we got moredifficult,withsomephysicallychallengingmomentsbutnothingto be tiful rainforest.Wereachedasmallriverafteraboutanhourandfromtherethehike ney (oneway)began. rainforest alone,asguidesarenotmandatory.Thethree-hour,eight-milejour- from therethebustoanothervillage,Loda,neartrailhead.Weentered the in NewZealand,ismerelysteaming,notreallyboiling. is actuallythelargest,asonethatcurrentlyholdsrecord,FryingPanLake make asoupforgiants:itlookslikepotandit’sfullofboilingwater! Soufrière. Nowlet’scontinuesouthalongthevolcanochain. Mount Scenery,Montserrat’sSoufriereHillsVolcanoandGuadeloupe’sGrande in theshadowsofslumberinggiants.Lastmonth,wedescribedourtripstoSaba’s visited inthepastyearhavebeendeepshelteredbayswithdarkrockyshores,calm 11-year-old Maya,aboardour38-footLeopardcatamaran, Caribbean mightbethemostexcitingtimeofyourlife. the VirginIslandsinnorthtoTrinidad&Tobagosouth. Movement oftheEarth’stectonicplatesformedLesserAntillesVolcanicArc,from looking downattheinsideofavolcano. IMAGINE After spendingsometimeintheValleyof Desolation,wecontinuedforafewmore The ValleyofDesolationisavolcanicareawithhot,steamyandmoistairthat The ValleyofDesolation…IfIwereatrollwouldlivehereamongthebubbling, The temperaturegotcooleraswehigher,andMayaputonherrainponcho In thebeginningtrailwaseasy,gentlyleadingusuponwoodenstepsinbeau- We tookthebusfromanchorageinPortsmouthtocapital,Roseau,and Boiling Lakeisthesecondlargesthotspringinworld.SomeDominicanssayit The nextvolcanoonourjourneywasacraterlakeinDominicawhereyoucould Dominica’s BoilingLake Some ofthemostdramatic-lookinganchorageswe—me,myhusbandIvo,andour If youareacruiserandvolcanoloveratthesametime,sailinginEastern Many oftheCaribbeanislandsare,infact,volcanoesstickingupoutsea. by MiraNencheva Part Two: SAILING AMONGTHEVOLCANOES poisonous breathofamonster.Youare ric gaseshissingfromundergroundlikethe standing ontheedgeofadarkcrater,sulfu-

Dominica toSt. Lucia —Continued onnextpage Fata Morgana —have Desolation orasmerrybubblesonChampagne Reef In Dominica,youcanencountervolcanic gases asscarysteamintheValleyof Inset:Maya,IvoandMiraapproachthemistyheights JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 since Fata Morgana, We rested for a bit, and started heading back down. It’s a long way. We got to the We rested for a bit, and started heading back down. It’s We started walking down the road, hitchhiking. After a very long time, a very small We finally returned to our boat around sunset, time to eat French baguette sand- We could also have happily ended our volcano exploration right there in the quiet From Rodney Bay we took the bus to the capital, Castries, a 20-minute ride, and There are even more volcano destinations in the Caribbean islands, in Grenada and Mira Nencheva, her husband, Ivo, and their daughter Maya are sailing around the We took a bus from St. Pierre after waiting for more than one hour at the bus stop, for more than one hour at from St. Pierre after waiting We took a bus a few rock narrow paths at places, and excellent, with steps and The trail was the crater was covered in vegetation and there was The dome at the summit inside no sign of volcanic activity. The giant was slumbering again. no sign of volcanic activity. The giant was slumbering hour to walk down from the car park by the early afternoon, but it took us over an Exhausted and hungry, we car park to the village where we expected to get a bus. out there was no bus to couldn’t wait to get in the bus and sit down. But it turned St. Pierre in the afternoon, only in the morning. Great… car pulled over. The driver was a young French woman with two kids in the back. There were two spots left for the three of us, but we managed to squeeze in. We were so grateful. Some people with small cars have big hearts. wiches, drink beer and relax, watching the clouds drifting down from the bald moun- tain and over the sea. anchorage in Martinique, but a few days later we sailed to St. Lucia, another beauti- ful island with some dramatic hills and mountain peaks. then took a much longer and hip-hoppier bus ride to the town of Soufriere, farther south. Once the capital of the island-state, Soufriere is today a very quiet town with a small, deep anchorage. We heard that this anchorage was unsafe, as some boats got boarded at night and robbed there. Yet this is a place with a stunning view, attracting a lot of tourists. Just south of the town are the two pitons — Petit Piton and Gros Piton — two spectacular volcanic plugs. A volcanic plug is created when magma hardens within a vent of an active volcano. With time, erosion removes the surrounding rock while the erosion-resistant plug remains, resulting in an upright landform. Petit (little) Piton and Gros (big) Piton stand like perfect cones, covered in lush tropical vegetation. on the island of St. Vincent, but as we walked around farmlands at the foot of the Pitons, trying some strange yellow fruits, like plums only sweeter, with banana and cocoa trees on one side and the tall volcanic land formations on the other, we felt satisfied. The restless explorers in us finally had their fill of volcanoes; we were ready for some lazy time at the beach. world, living full-time aboard their 38-foot Leopard , cell remain. All other houses and public establishments destroyed by the volcanic establishments destroyed other houses and public cell remain. All Pierre is no lon- days have been rebuilt. St. the fires that lasted a few explosion and village with but a small quiet fishermen’s town it once was, ger the busy extravagant pastry shop. a church, and a French a few restaurants, for over an From there we walked village nearest to the mountain. and got to the at 2,700 feet. We starts from a car park up to the trailhead, which hour on a road at 4,583 feet. climb to the summit began the two-hour are no trees, and andesite flows. There old magma deposits, domes, scrambles over was and a few frail palms near the summit. The air only low shrubs and grasses enveloped in a thick cloud. It drizzled. There were snails misty and the mountain was hummingbirds made tiny helicopter sounds with their all over the place. Small wings. July 2013. Their journey is documented in a travel-adventure blog www.thelifenom- adik.com and in their Facebook page Facebook/TheLifeNomadik, where Mira is pub- lishing stories and pictures. Sailing past St. Lucia’s Pitons, the twin volcanic plugs that marked the end of our volcano voyeurs’ voyage Sailing past St. Lucia’s Pitons, the twin volcanic plugs S/V S/V , we piled into a local on May 8th, three days before the elections, the volcano erupted with a and Tina and Mark of AM Continued from previous page Continued from Today, only the ruins of the old theatre, the church and the jail with its isolation At 7:50 People from the villages nearest to the volcano sought refuge in St. Pierre, four In February of 1902 Mont Pelée exhaled sulfurous gases, killing birds, and in April Martinique was settled in 1635 by the French and St. Pierre, a vibrant colonial Martinique’s Bald Mountain After Dominica we sailed to Martinique. At the northern tip of the island, on the At some point Ivo asked the rest of us to get out and wait for him on the beach. At some point Ivo asked the rest of us to get out and Submarine volcanic activity near With Mel and Caryn of The city has a big farmers’ mar- We sailed from the Portsmouth We sailed from the Portsmouth Swimming in Volcanic Gases And our very favorite snorkeling The long but not too difficult trail across the Valley of Desolation and leading us to trail across the Valley of Desolation and leading us The long but not too difficult We ate our sandwiches on top of the cliff, the lake boiling below us, before we top of the cliff, the lake boiling below us, before we We ate our sandwiches on The landscape around the lake is similarly as barren and melancholic as the Valley as barren and melancholic around the lake is similarly The landscape Dominica’s Boiling Lake, about 200 to 250 feet in diameter and located at the bot- feet in diameter and located Lake, about 200 to 250 Dominica’s Boiling Almost continuously enveloped in clouds of vapor, its grayish water forever bub- of vapor, its grayish water enveloped in clouds Almost continuously deafening roar, an atomic-like blast, and a black cloud of gas, ash and rock heated to 1,000 degrees Celsius replaced the sky and fell over St. Pierre. Homes were swallowed, people incinerated within minutes. Most of the 18 ships in the bay were also destroyed, their remains still lying on the bottom of the sea; only a few escaped in time. miles directly under the crater, thinking it was safer there, based on the govern- ment’s reassurances published in local newspapers. The population of St. Pierre grew to nearly 28,000. Some tried to leave the town and head south to the second largest city, Fort-de-, but Governor Mouttet brought army troops to patrol the roads with orders not to let anyone leave the town until after the elections on May 11th. tremors shook the slopes and a cloud of ash showered the town and its residents. But instead of ordering an evacuation, officials declared that “there is nothing in the activity of Mt. Pelée that warrants a departure from St. Pierre,” and ordered the vot- ers to stay put until after election day. On May 5th the rim of the crater lake, whose water was beginning to boil, broke and volcanic mudflow rushed down the slopes at 100 kilometres per hour, killing 23 people, burying everything in its path all the way to the sea where it generated a tsunami and flooded the lowlands. town, quickly became its most important city. By the end of the 19th century St. Pierre had a population of over 20,000. But things were about to change, and not just because of the upcoming elections. west side, is a wide peaceful bay populated by small fishing boats. As we slowly approached it, the old buildings of a sleepy town began to take shape at the foot of a massive bald mountain. The mountain is Mont Pelée: the deadliest volcano in modern history, whose titanic eruption in 1902 killed nearly 30,000 people in this town, St. Pierre. Why was he kicking us out of the champagne? Because, he explained, he had to take Why was he kicking us out of the champagne? Because, his hands from a giant spiny off his swim shorts to use them as gloves to protect Ivo with the GoPro… The lobster. I was tempted to go back in the water and surprise lobster escaped and Ivo later recalled how scary it was to swim in the reef without pants, his precious lures hanging around up for grabs… the shore creates beautiful hissing hot bubbles among the corals and the rocks of the reefs in deliciously clear water. Small fishes of all col- ors, seahorses, spotted sea snakes, and schools of squid swim among the bubbles. It must be Disney World for them! The water here is warm thanks to the geothermal gases escaping the earth’s crust. We enjoyed it as much as the fishes do, maybe even more. The bubbles tickled us and bumped into our goggles. We could also hear them underwater. The reef sounds and looks exactly like champagne and we were as happy and excited as drunks. Passages S/V Rainbow bus and for a couple of EC dollars we got to a small dive shop near the beach. The hot spot everyone is talking about. ket and lots of old buildings, shops ket and lots of old buildings, shops and restaurants. We had lunch at a local fast-food joint — spicy fried chicken and beef patties — and we were ready for some champagne for dessert. anchorage and dropped anchor in anchorage and dropped anchor deep we Roseau harbor, which is so hous- were just a few feet from the the es, almost on shore. We were bay; only boat at anchor in the everyone else was on mooring balls, paying per night. Ivo and Maya jumped in the water to make sure the anchor was holding well and we were ready to explore. spot became Champagne Reef, a Reef, a spot became Champagne popular diving and snorkeling entire destination unique in the vol- Caribbean region — another canic phenomenon. the Boiling Lake became our favor- the Boiling Lake became our ite journey while visiting Dominica. started heading back, feeling enchanted. started heading back, feeling of Desolation: perpetual mist, dead plants and low grasses, and wet rocks covered dead plants and low grasses, and wet rocks covered of Desolation: perpetual mist, with orange moss. tom of a large sinkhole-like basin, is in fact a flooded fumarole: a crack in the Earth’s a flooded fumarole: a crack sinkhole-like basin, is in fact tom of a large lava below. High escaping from the molten steam, gases and heat crust that emits 100 feet directly Its cliff-top ledge is about create the lake’s basin. steep rock walls here and fall in the pot! You wouldn’t want to slip above its shore. bling, its temperature along the edges is 180 to 200 degrees Fahrenheit (about 90 180 to 200 degrees Fahrenheit along the edges is bling, its temperature too hot to measure. and its boiling center is degrees Celsius), — JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 Our priority then was to likely to affect us. Ahead we could see breaking waves on reefs, and with a following sea and wind and the current pushing against us we needed to check just where we were aiming for. I dug the iPad out to switch on the Navionics, which was still showing our track via sat- ellite even on standby. Damn, I couldn’t get it to work inside the plastic bag so took it out. We had just started to look at where we were, when WHOOSH — we were swamped by a huge breaking wave over the stern that resulted in a dinghyful of sea and my iPad in the survivor case floating and sloshing around in the bottom. bail the out as quickly as possible and hope that another didn’t get us. We couldn’t have coped with two like that. We bailed out and carried on, both talking about what had happened, know- ing that we had been in jeopardy there for about ten minutes as we got rid of all the sea and put it We saw three local with powerful outboards local dinghies with powerful We saw three of one reef system we As we passed on the outside We had a few lesser incidents with waves but that The final challenge was passing Southwest Point We had made it. Through the current, around all the lee shore with no hope of recovery? Are we going to get no hope of recovery? Are we lee shore with tops? Will we one of the breaking wave swamped by below the a rock that we hadn’t seen bottom out onto and steered us onwards regardless surface?” Angelus headlands. the danger points of the we inched past into the the day. Two were pounding pass us during we were okay. yet veered close to see if huge seas and realized that and thumbs up when they Nice gestures to be where we were. we actually intended Atlantic rollers and waves, met with the full force of the last minute so that we the tops of some breaking at on which waves were had to keep a constant watch back where it belonged. (My iPad seems to be function- ing after I rinsed parts of it with fresh water and dried it in rice.) had been the big one. We decided to stay outside of White and Saline Islands and approached Island. Once again I started squeaking about the speed at which the current was sweeping us sideways and we tacked well away from the shore. Then we glanced to leeward and saw an area of sea that was alive with peaking waves that converged, spray flying from the crests — and the current was sweeping us towards this weird tidal rip. We had to get past it, just had to, or we believed that being dragged into that could have resulted in us having a dinghy full of water and swimming for the shore of an uninhibited island — if we could. We didn’t even have time to get the oars out, but Angelus grabbed the bailer to paddle and I used my hands. We paddled furiously for a couple of minutes and just managed to kiss the outer edge of the maelstrom as we scraped past it. Phew! without hitting either of the two rocks that the current took us towards, and to avoid being carried out to sea by the offshore current there. Then the wind died. The current didn’t. We had to down the sail and row hard to make any ground along a good section of the coast. But we had made it. We could see Tyrell Bay and inched closer in the fading light. For a final hour we sailed in the dark into the bay of anchor lights of moored yachts. We couldn’t see the wind coming towards us in the darkness so had to be ready to react, a final challenge to keep us alert as we tacked up through the yachts in the moonless night breeze. points, through many reefs, on all points of sail on the way around. What an epic sailing adventure with such challenges along the way! What memories to treasure, of a shared circumnavigation of Carriacou with anoth- er boat kid like me.

PM Right: The Frigate Island tidal race , we were off the village of Windward and the village of Windward and , we were off PM By 5:30 “Walk off the dock and see Norman in the first bar Eventually we got “up de road by de church”. And in a The second part of our journey began with extra com- We found the boatyard easily, just up from Norman’s Eventually Angelus and I headed out into Watering It is during these moments that I was a little bit Above: Two adult ‘boat kids’, Angelus and Robin, and their intrepid sailing dinghy, pulled ashore for a break at Sandy Island and tacked close in to the wreck of a small cargo ship in to the wreck of a small and tacked close and risen to have just headed into shore that appeared PSV lay east- reef. Petite Martinique and high upon the sea to the east the reefs, and all along the wards beyond outer reef. of breaking waves of the of us was a line brought any money for a bus and it was a 12-mile walk brought any money for a bus and it was a 12-mile walk back to Tyrell Bay. on the right. I’m sure he’ll look after your boat for the night.” Naturally we had gone to the wrong dock, so we strolled through the village asking locals along the way, “D’ya know Norman?” “Up de road,” came the reply with a flick of the head. Windward is a beauti- fully kept, colourful village with a history of boatbuild- ing and brightly painted homes. bar on the right we found the man we were seeking. Norman was lovely, so very warm, and smiled a welcome with his hand outstretched. It didn’t matter that he didn’t remember Pete. He showed us where to pull the dinghy up on his beach and when we asked if we could possibly borrow a few bucks to get back to Tyrell Bay, he pulled EC$40 out of his wallet and asked, “Is this enough?” As we rode along on the bus in the dark I was so happy to hear Angelus say that he really would like to return with me to complete the journey the next day. pany. Angelus’s mum, Angelika, and my partner, Gerhard, accompanied us up to Windward to visit the village and the boatyard. I loved the bumpy bus ride as much as any other part of the day, talking to others and listening to local banter, while enjoying the scenery. place, and I sat quietly in the shade of the rustling palm trees, watching local craftsmen building a boat, piece by piece. They chatted back and forth to them- selves as they worked, and I listened as I watched and took it all in. But beyond the yard is the sea and I just longed to be out there again. Bay for our homeward run along the windy east coast. Outside the bay it was much rougher than we thought it would be. We anticipated that we would be some- what protected by the outlying reef. Again we fought against the current and tide, which slowed us down to the rate of a tortoise as we crept past each headland. afraid and I squeaked anxiously, “Are we going to make it without being thrown by a freak wave onto a decided that we didn’t really want to sail through the didn’t really want to sail decided that we all the way down the unknown, reef-strewn waters no way! So we headed in windward coast in the dark, night. I called Pete to see if to beach the dinghy for the because we hadn’t he knew anyone in Windward, Point. We had to concentrate because the gusts came to concentrate because the Point. We had the way.the bays from the valleys along flying across about 5:00 northernmost point at We rounded the

CHRIS DOYLE GUIDES

’Round Carriacou ’Round A Dinghy with Two Two with A Dinghy by Robin Evans Robin by

ach headland on the windward side of the on the windward side of ach headland The currents swirled island was a challenge. we peaks and troughs as the waves into ahead in our ten-foot, locally edged our way E Although we were in the protected lee of the island, We had to leave during the heat of the early after- Angelus was up for it, so I was a cruising boat kid My brother Pete had My brother Pete had What was I doing throwing down the gauntlet to down the gauntlet to What was I doing throwing the current fought our determination all the way to Gun noon though, if we wanted to achieve our goal of get- ting around the island — some 20 miles without tak- ing into account all the tacking. were we glad that we had them, because there were a number of occasions where Angelus rowed and hugged the shore to beat the current. At lunchtime we stopped at Sandy Island for a break. Oh beautiful Sandy Island, small with white sand and some welcome shade. off we set from Tyrell Bay the following morning on an easy downwind leg towards Jack Iron Point. For safety we had both inde- pendently considered a few essential items. I had stored a couple of emergency numbers of local contacts into my phone and Angelus had brought a small water- proof case with flares, a VHF, a knife, and some other bits and pieces for emergencies. I had brought a decent bailer, some spare lines in case a or main needed replacing, which were stowed under the seat with lunch, sunscreen, my iPad, phone, lots of drinking water, and sandals in case of contact with land or coral head. We both had hats and shirts, too. We had overly long oars aboard that got in the way a bit but, boy, and spent nearly ten years living in the Caribbean between Grenada and St. Lucia in the 1970s. Since then I have spent 35 years on land, interspersed with as many sailing experienc- es as possible. Now I live on the west coast of and have my own 27-foot sloop. At the moment I’m visiting Carriacou for a couple of months — and have the use of a sailing dinghy. sailed his little dinghy sailed his little dinghy around the island and I kind of had this in the back of my mind as something that I would like to do too, but I didn’t want to do it alone. Watching Angelus handle the dinghy got me thinking that he would be perfect for the challenge. my companion in suggesting a circumnavigation of a circumnavigation of my companion in suggesting Carriacou? I’d only just met him, and my only knowledge of his sailing experience was a lifetime living on boats, like us, and seeing him handle the dinghy while sailing around the Tyrell Bay anchorage with me. built sailing dinghy. Sometimes I was a tiny bit afraid. Sometimes I was a tiny built sailing dinghy. wave onto would be thrown by a freak Afraid that we by another as lee shore, or swamped the rocks on the We had an two-metre-high wave broke. the top of a to be alert that gusted furiously. I had onshore wind on steering, as Angelus had to focus on the rail just at the right angle to avoid aiming to catch each wave boat. shipping the top of it into the JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 for inter-islandracingevents. of childrenparticipatinginsummersailingcampsaswellleveltheplayingfield Optimists toNevisandnineSt.Kitts.Thiswillpavethewayforalargernumber nod fromtheirNOCtoapplyforfunding. sistent instructionandcompetition.Theronisconfidentthey’lleventuallyreceivethe National OlympicCommittee(NOC).SKNSAhastoestablishatrackrecordofcon- Sailing Association(SKNSA)wasformed.Theystillawaitformalrecognitionbytheir to doit,addressyourchallengesastheyariseandkeepmovingon,”Marksays. ahead andgetastartirrespectiveoftheperceivedhurdlesthatlayahead.Ifyouplan sailing federationis‘don’tgiveup’.Ittookalotoftimebehindthecomputer.Go nations hadansweredsomeofthequestions.Myadvicetoothersseekingstarta waded throughthepaperworkalone.Eventually,othersjumpedonboard. ational andcompetitivesailing.Targetage:fiveto16years).Thefirstfewyears,Mark Optimists aretheone-designdinghyusedworldwideforintroductiontobothrecre- (International SailingFederation)andIODAOptimistDinghyAssociation; tion qualifytoreceiveit,TheronreachedoutforinformationfrombothISAF international supportisoutthere,butonlycountrieswithanationalsailingfedera- Club, MarkTheron,decidedhewouldmakeitotherwise.Withtheknowledgethat programs thatcameandwentovertheyears.In2011,thencommodoreofNevisYacht of creatingonethisyear—citesustainableyouthsailingastheirdrivingforce. ing federationlastyear,andSt.Vincent&theGrenadines,whichisinprocess new phenomenonafoot.Twoislandnations—St.Kitts&Nevis,whichformedasail- Sailing developmentoftenhasaseatonthebusbutisnotdriver.Butthere facilitate modernkeelboatracinganditsconsequentialeconomicdevelopment. skill thatmightleadtoemploymentwithinthemarineindustryasanadult. “Caribbean youthoradultnextdoor”,wecelebratejuniorsailinganditsroleasalife Youth Sailing of Sustainable In theName A goalforthissummer?Yes.SKNSAanticipatesreceivingashipmentofsix This attitudeworked.In2014,officerswereelectedandtheSt.Kitts&Nevis “ISAF washelpfulinprovidingtemplatesandsamplesofhowemergingisland Like manyotherCaribbeannations,St.Kitts&Nevishadyouthsailinginstruction Historically, nationalsailingfederationsintheEasternCaribbeanwereformedto Youth2Adult —Y2Aisanewseriesofarticlesfor Compass readers.Featuringthe Y2A BYELLENEBERTBIRRELL are progressingandformalizingtheirnationalfederation. Favorite boat:HobieCat Member: NevisYachtClub Kephra Grandison,14yearsofage Y2A FeaturedYouth Until next.Wegetwhatwecelebrate. In thenextY2A,we’llcheckinwithSt.Vincent&Grenadinestoseehowthey —Continued onnextpage JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Boldly .” . His business continues to thrive and has this year both expand- continues to thrive and has . His business Carib Sun Carib Surf with partner Jim Hutchins to life skills built in childhood. Believing swimming with partner Jim Hutchins to life skills built in childhood. Ellen Ebert Birrell attributes her opportunity to cruise the Caribbean aboard Ellen Ebert Birrell attributes her opportunity to cruise the Employing 12, his ferries serve transportation needs both nationally (between needs both nationally his ferries serve transportation Employing 12, industry. We don’t have Alfred: “I’d like to see more youth getting into the marine Go as Sailing Development Chair and sailing are essentials for island youth, she serves on the Caribbean Sailing Association. for more information. Visit http://caribbean-sailing.com/youth/youth-programs Nevis and St. Kitts) as well as regionally (St. Kitts & Nevis/Montserrat/Antigua). Nevis and St. Kitts) as well as regionally (St. Kitts & Nevis/Montserrat/Antigua). can build a comfortable a lot of seafarers in our country right now. Young people livelihood and at the same time serve their country.” ferry, the commissioned a and Antigua, and operations to include Montserrat ed his scope of third vessel, the

Spirit of St. Carib Breeze . Then in 1983, I Eagle for the Quebec/St. Malo (France) Spirit and the 66-foot Skyjack , then the 45-foot Caona . At the beginning of that job, I said to the team that the best of them . At the beginning of that job, I said to the team that Continued from previous page Continued from According to Philip Walwyn, SKNSA Vice President and SKYC Commodore, “When According to Philip Walwyn, SKNSA Vice President and Y2A Featured Adult owner, St. Kitts Prince Alfred Mills, business ashore on St. Kitts to have his picture taken for this Prince Alfred “Ali” Mills stands Kephra says, “I would like to see more children participate in my sailing club. I try see more children participate in my sailing club. I try Kephra says, “I would like to Summer camp includes informally racing Lasers, Optimists, Sunfish and Hobie racing Lasers, Optimists, Sunfish and Hobie Summer camp includes informally “The most appealing aspects of sailing to me are being out at sea with the waves of sailing to me are being out at sea with the waves “The most appealing aspects “My grandma told me about her father, my great-grandfather, who sailed lighters, my great-grandfather, who told me about her father, “My grandma Kephra lives in Zetlands Estate, Nevis with “my mom, grandparents and great- with “my mom, grandparents in Zetlands Estate, Nevis Kephra lives “In 1999 he set up his own company, M&M Transport, operating the “In 1999 he set up his own company, M&M Transport, Peter Dupre, SKNSA secretary, continues, “After this, Alfred studied navigation at Peter Dupre, SKNSA secretary, continues, “After this, we started St. Kitts Boatbuilding Company in 1979, David Stanger found (as it we started St. Kitts Boatbuilding Company in 1979, the boats. These men were turned out) an exceptional group of young men to build First off we built not boatbuilders but became expert in wood epoxy construction. the 40-foot series. In the bay behind him several of his yachts stand at attention representing several of his yachts stand at attention representing series. In the bay behind him part of his many life successes. would (if they wanted) sail north with me on to contribute to its success by getting there on time, paying my dues and telling my by getting there on time, paying my dues and telling to contribute to its success the my mom to join in. I volunteer my time at friends about the club. I encourage confident with different aspects. I help Nick, my teacher, club to help other kids get pack up at the end of practice. I want to invent things set up at the beginning and sail. I love inventing things. I want to get a sailing schol- that make the boat easier to can offered ‘full scholarships’ on the internet) so that I arship at Yale (I saw they become an engineer.” catamaran took a year off from my small hotel to build the 75-foot Christopher Cats. Recently, Kephra skippered a Hobie Cat with adult crew in a local regatta and a Hobie Cat with adult crew in a local regatta Cats. Recently, Kephra skippered D’ Or” (Golden Conch trophy). won. He was awarded the “Conch and enjoying harnessing the power of the wind to move me. (Participating in) the power of the wind to move me. (Participating in) and enjoying harnessing the confidence and have learned an important skill.” sailing club, I feel I have more traditional boats crafted in Anguilla. He sailed by the stars at night from Anguilla to sailed by the stars at night crafted in Anguilla. He traditional boats his mother took When Kephra was little livestock and other goods.” Nevis, bringing e-mailed a St. In 2012, after a family friend Sunfish at Oualie Beach. him sailing in operating), junior sailing program no longer brochure (a private Kitts Sailing School become a pas- not realizing that this would up for a summer activity she signed him sion for her son. grandma who is 92 this year. Bolt, my dog, lives with us too.” In Grade 5 at the dog, lives with us too.” In is 92 this year. Bolt, my grandma who are football and sailing. his favorite activities Montessori School, — the Seamen’s Church Institute of New York for two years, graduating as a second the Seamen’s Church Institute of New York for two years, experience working for Ionian officer of unlimited tonnage. He gained a wealth of Staten Island Ferry, as well Transport in New York, which included some time on the as experience on various vessels throughout the Caribbean. Race. Alfred Mills was chosen and did the trip. The rest, as they say, is history.” Race. Alfred Mills was chosen and did the trip. The rest, in competition with the government ferry that ran between St. Kitts and Nevis. in competition with the government ferry that ran hard work made this a huge Alfred’s experience on the sea, business acumen and of second, much bigger success, such that in 2002 he commissioned the building JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 promised topickusupthenextdayat12:30 dropping usoffatthehostel,taxidriver,Ruben, return totheboat)andleftforPanamaCity.Before (since theplanewouldarrivetoolateineveningto 17th take ustogetJanny.We’dleaveonTuesday Panama City.Wemadeanappointmentwiththemto shore, twoGunamenrunataxibusinessthatgoesto safely anchorandleavetheboatforadayortwo.On the worldstarts.Herewefoundabaywherecould from theSanBlasthroughrainforesttorestof the autonomousregionofindigenousGunapeople. stay onboard friend Janny,whowastoarrivebyairforatwo-week Bella Ciao through theCaribbeanonoursailingcatamaran, Immigration authoritiesinPanamawhiletravelling partner, FritsduBois,andI—weretreatedbythe nothing ofnotehappening.Rubencame at7:00 it wasfreezing.Policeofficerscameand wentwith front office.Theairconditionerwasrunning highand where weweresatdownonabenchinthe dilapidated Immigration officers. left behind,inthehandsof Panamanian help herboard. driver RubenpromisedtotakeJanny However, sheisinawheelchair.Ourhelpfultaxi had therightstampinherpassportandwasfreetogo. Since Jannyhadenteredthecountrybyplane,she to payafineandthatwecouldnottravelanyfurther. want tolisten. had beencalledoverbythepolice,hedidn’tseemto we triedtoexplainthistheImmigrationofficerwho then backagainforthetriptoairport.Butwhen Portobelo, theportofentrywewereheadingto,and wouldn’t havebeenidealtosailtheroughpassage in theweekprior,withhighwindsandbigwaves.It ed tocheckinlaterbecausetheweatherhadbeenbad ports weremissingtherequiredstamp.Wehaddecid- passports. Wehadnotyetcheckedin,soourpass- Chepo. However,thistimethepolicewerechecking just aswehadthedaybefore,nearvillageof Pan-American Highwaywecametoapoliceroadblock, promised andwesetoffbacktotheSanBlas.On Locks inthePanamaCanal. would giveusenoughtimetocheckouttheMiraflores Welcome toPanama—ACautionaryTale We collectedenoughthingsforonenightinahostel We wenttotheCartiIslands,whereonlyroad Frits andIsailedtoPanamarecentlypickupour Outbound Voyage This isthestoryabouthowaDutchcouple—my It was2:30 Then wewatchedRubenpullaway as wewere We weretakenoutofthetaxiandtoldwewouldhave The PoliceStation The nextday,Wednesday,Rubenpickedusallupas Part One:

at 8:00 . AM PM Bella Ciao . whentheyputusinthepolicestation in the San Blas archipelago, intheSanBlasarchipelago, CaughtandDetained Bella Ciao by ReinhildevanderKroef PM , March . This PM and to to sleep. that nightonuncomfortablechairs,trying andfailing cated. Ourworriescontinuedtoincrease. Wespent the followingdayandourdeviceswould beconfis- fines lateron. ferred somemoneytomycheckingaccountpayany Dutch embassyexplainingoursituation.Ialsotrans- us tocallourembassy.SoIsentane-mailthe we hadourphoneandiPadsocouldgoonline. bought someandwereledbacktothestation.Luckily, canteen wheremuffinsanddrinkswerebeingsold.We utes later,anarmedguardledustosomekindofa we askedwherecouldbuysomething.Thirtymin- board check onusandtoinformthatJannywassafely them tocheckthereportIhadsentvia e-mail.The with freshcoffeeandrolls. had severeconsequences on For DutchcruisersFrits(above)andReinhilde(below) Ruben stoppedbyonceagainat6:00 The officerletusknowthatwewouldbe separated Later thatnightoneofthenight-shiftofficersadvised It wascleartheywerenotplanningonfeedingus,so At nineo’clocksharp,Icalledourembassy. Itold Bella Ciao Bella Ciao , notclearingintoPanamapromptly . AM

thenextday

DEEP BOEL DEEP INA KLAASEN INA ing onoldmattresses. cise, surroundedbycockroachesandlice, andsleep- after fivemonthswithoutdaylight,fresh airorexer- She hadgainedweight.Iguessthat’swhat happens extremely palewithaswollenfaceand affected skin. all thesemonthsofstressanddetention shelooked spent twomonthsmorewaitingforan answer. After ing toendthisprolongedprocedure.She hadalready ing anything,Melissawrotealettertothe courtask- Panama. Afterthreemonths’detentionandnothear- Panama. Butallshewantedwastogetoutof began aproceduretoextendherstayingpermitin lawyer togetheroutbut,withoutknowledge,he before beingbroughttothe‘Albergue’.Shehireda fine shewasheldinapolicestationforfourdays polo shirts.Shewasarrested.Afterhavingpaidher tents ofthebag;theseappearedtobethreestolen Then thepolicecameuptohersearchcon- moment. Shehadnoknowledgeofthecontents. a shoppingmallandwashandedbagtoholdfor told methatonedayshewaswithacquaintancesin boys, cametoPanamaforawhileafterdivorce.She they couldgetfreshairduringthedaytime. actually worse.Atleastinprisontherewasdaylightand to beprocessed),theImmigrationdetentioncenterwas out ofprison(andwerewaitingherefortheirpaperwork could layhandsontheirconfiscatedbelongings. at all.Ortheyliterallyrobbedtheirclientswhen ries oflawyerswhosentbillsandinreturndidnothing was inthehandsoftheirlawyers.Iheardseveralsto- without theirchildren.Theironlyhopeofgettingout sation) and,aswasthecasewithmostofwomen, cial tickets,withtheguardsoverhearingyourconver- exception ofapublicphone,forwhichyouneededspe- out communicationwiththeoutsideworld(with light (didImentionthereweren’tanywindows?),with- detained severalmonths.Thatismonthswithoutday- prove that?Therewerewomenwhohadalreadybeen though, hadactuallyworkedillegally.Buthowcanone all womenwhoweredetainedasillegalworkers, with anexpiredvisa,noworkinglicense,orboth.Not woman fromJamaica.Mostofthemhadbeencaught Salvadorian, anAmerican,twoNicaraguansanda women wereColombian,buttherewasalsoa story asIwasinhearingtheirs.Themajorityofthe I became“Holanda”. night. Everyoneintheplacehadanicknameandsoon Masculino, whogotthesamerationsaswedid. fact toosmallforseveralmenintheAlbergue food wasn’tbad,thoughtheportionsweresmall,in day. Ibegantoeatthefoodthatwasofferedme.The declined, forIwassurethatwouldleavethefollowing inmates offeredmecleanclothes,whichIrespectfully that Iwouldhavetospendthenightthere.Myfellow nothing frommyembassyeither.Itoccurredtome time continuedtopassandnothinghappened.Iheard (Female Accommodation),butitfeltlikejail. appeared. TheplaceiscalledAlbergueFeminino quite sometime,butmyappetitehadcompletelydis- me beddingandofferedfood.Ihadn’teatenfor contact withme.Theygavemealowerbunk,brought locked inthisobscure,uncomfortable,crowdedspace. to besearched. tained, desolatespace.Iwastakenintothebathroom overall impressionwasthatitapoorlymain- fluorescent striplightshangingoffthewalls.My beds throughouttheroomandsomepartlyworking metre roomholdingatleast20women.Isawbunk were confiscated. My smallbackpackwasunpackedandmoreitems the placewasofagateddoorandladiesinuniforms. counterpart. ItwasThursday,2:00 detention center,whileFritswastakentothemale were veryrich.Ourstresslevelsmounted. seemed asthoughhepresumedwe,yachtowners, understand wasthathewantedustopaydearly.It couldn’t understandeverything,butwhatwecould to hisfemalecolleaguewhowasaccompanyingus.We into acar.Duringtheride,officerdeliveredtirade could dotousanythingtheywanted. not mistreated.Irealizedthatfrompointonthey lopes. Wealsohadtosignaformstatingthatwewere iPad, andUS$200)toberegisteredputinenve- At thispoint,theytookourbelongings(cellphones, while wewaitedforachiefofficertotakeustown. under directsurveillanceoftheImmigrationpersonnel that theplacewasverycold,sotheyletusstayoutside criminals —theywantedtolockusup.Wecomplained phones, soshewouldhavetotrackusdown. let herknowtheyweregoingtoconfiscateourcell lady Italkedtopromisedstayincontactwithus. Melissa, a34-year-oldColombianmotheroftwo According tosomeofthewomenwhohadjustcome The otherwomenwereasinterestedinhearingmy At about6:00 Our PartnersinDistress I stillbelievedwouldbereleasedthatsameday.But The otherwomenintheroomimmediatelysought And then—BANG.ThegatewasclosedandI Then Iwasledthroughagateintoaneight-by-nine Finally IwasdroppedoffatthefemaleImmigration When thechiefofficerfinallyarrived,wewereput Under LockandKey The Immigrationofficialsnowtreatedusastrue PM , thegateddoorwaslockedfor —Continued onnextpage PM . Myfirstsightof JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31

DEEP BOEL Zar-Par volumes 3 . Compass Marina The living conditions in the ‘Albergue Masculino’ Will Friday bring freedom for us? To be continued in FREE were also far from ideal. The rooms were even more were also far from ideal. The rooms were even more desolate than those at the female facility. There were all kinds of bugs. The bathroom was disgusting. The floor was covered in water because of a constant leak in the shower system. None of the toilets’ doors closed properly nor did any toilet have a seat. next month’s leave to seafarers holding valid seafarers’ identity holding valid seafarers’ leave to seafarers from the they got Chris’ passport documents. When Chris tried lacked the proper stamp. ship, it of course wanted noth- this to the officials. He in vain to explain but he was to just leave the country, ing more than because of “paperwork”. held for ten days www.marinazarpar.com Boca Chica, Boca Chica, Bella Ciao Compliments of:

CRUISING GUIDES www.freecruisingguide.com Dominican Republic Cayman Islands Haiti Cuba Jamaica Trinidad ABC Islands Puerto Rico Lesser Antilles in

(full moon) Chris, an American, came in to Panama as a cruise came in to Panama Chris, an American, where he was detained with about a hundred other men.detained with about a hundred where he was on the He was randomly searched ship employee. a night out. He had only his street during see this as Panamanian officials didn’t ID on him. The International form of ID, although the a legitimate Document Seafarers’ Identity Labour Organisation’s to allow shore requires port states Convention ILO-185 11 12 0802 13 0853 14 0949 15 1042 16 1134 17 1225 18 1313 19 1359 20 1443 21 1526 22 1608 23 1657 24 1734 25 1818 26 1905 27 1956 28 2047 29 2142 30 2239 31 2336 0000 (full moon)

21 22 1604 23 1648 24 1730 25 1812 26 1855 27 1940 28 2026 29 2115 30 2207 2301 July 2015 1 2 3 0000 4 0004 5 0054 6 0150 7 0246 8 0340 9 0433 10 0526 0617 0709

JUNE - JULY 2015 OF THE MOON (full moon) MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE June 2015 DATE TIME 1 2 3 2325 4 0000 5 0018 6 0112 7 0208 8 0303 9 0358 10 0451 11 0544 0635 12 0727 13 0819 14 0913 15 1007 16 1102 17 1157 18 1251 19 1342 20 1432 1519 Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with Continued from previous page Continued from Frits heard similar stories in the ‘Albergue Masculino,’ stories in the ‘Albergue Frits heard similar By bribing the guards, it was possible to get tele- guards, it was possible By bribing the Several women were accused of prostitution, which were accused of prostitution, Several women charts. Fair tides! running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. In addition to being detained for days, Frits and Reinhilde were fined for evading Immigration control and for In addition to being detained for days, Frits and Reinhilde rush to pick up a friend to join them sailing on non-payment of the Immigration fee. They’d been in a phones inside. They would also “pay” the (male) guards They would also “pay” the phones inside. to receive warned before searches and in kind to be other advantages. clearly is difficult to refute. clearly is difficult — JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 June 2009issueof if oneapproaches.(Seemyarticle“YouCan CruiseDuringHurricaneSeason”inthe the areafromMartiniquesouth;listenevery dayforhurricanenewsandheadsouth a locationwherethehurricanefrequency islow. To avoidhurricanes,dothesame:inhurricane season,cruiseorlaytheboatupin was, ‘Itisasimportanttoknowwherethe enemyisnot,astoknowwheretheyare.’ what washisformulaforverysuccessful raidsagainsttheUnionside,hisreply cavalry generalfortheConfederacyin our WarBetweentheStates.Whenasked of hurricanes,IamremindedthesayingGeneralBedfordForrest,abrilliant the monthsinwhichhurricanescanbeexpected. lowres.pdf), andhavespentthelast30yearsstudyingtracksofhurricanes and it upthrough2014(availableatwww.nhc.noaa.gov/pdf/TC_Book_Atl_1851-2006_ Cyclones oftheNorthAtlanticOcean1851to1998 ing adirecthitonBermuda. to salvageitthanofftheexposedbeachofSimpsonBay. move intothelagoon.Evenifaboatisdrivenashoreinlagoonitloteasier traffic re-routed.ThiswouldhaveallowedalltheboatsanchoredinSimpsonBay to there isnoreasonthatthebridgecouldnothavebeenleftopenalldayandroad boat willlikelybeatotalloss.OntheDutchside,sincecausewayhasbeenbuilt, bridge. IfaboatdragsuponthebulkheadedshoreofMarigotBayinstorm, the been urgedtomoveintoSimpsonLagoonandextraopeninghoursarrangedfor the both sidesoftheislanddidlittle.BoatsoutatanchorinMarigotBayshouldhave letter ofthemonthinDecember2014issue zoomed onwardbeforeitdidmassivedamagethere. that itwasafull-blownhurricaneof100knots.Luckily,fast-movingand However, whenGonzalohitAntiguasomeclaimed go out,butonlytoexpectwindsof4050knots. east ofAntigua.ItwasnamedGonzalo.Warningsdid tropical stormonOctober12th,2014about150miles One suchtropicalwavedevelopedintoacircular remain onlyatropicalstorm,orsometimesdieout. tropical storm,thenontoahurricaneorsometimes Atlantic. Thesesometimesdevelopintoacircular form offthecoastofAfricaandmoveacross a contingencybasis.) companies. (Admiraltylawyerswillnottakecaseson to hireAdmiraltylawyersgoafterthecruiseship uninsured collectednothing,astheycouldnotafford promptly paidup.Butthedamagedboatsthatwere insured wentafterthecruiseline,whoseinsurers insurance companiesofdamagedyachtsthatwere anchored boatsasshebackedoutoftheharbor.The overcome thehighwinds,anddrifteddownon covered thatherbowandsternthrusterscouldnot entered theharborandattemptedtodock.Shedis- charter yachtshow.Thecruiseship was supposedtobeover. the islandsfromwest.Besides,hurricaneseason formed intheEasternCaribbean,andfirsttohit only thesecondhurricaneinknownhistorythat as itheadednortheast.Fewwereprepared.Itwas south ofPuertoRicoanddevelopedintoahurricane be made. hit yachtingcentersbeforeproperpreparationscould have beentwonotablehurricanesthatpoppedupand before ahurricanehitstheLesserAntilles,butthere is nearlyalwaystothenorth. degrees in24hours,andthecoursealterationifany Eastern Caribbeanneveraltercoursemorethanfive hurricanes) whenapproachingtheislandsof canes (orcircularstormcellsthatcandevelopinto fairly accuratelypredicted.Wealsoknowthathurri- landfall ofthehurricaneanditsdangerzonecanbe and hurricanehunterplanesgatheringdata,the time forpreparations. could, anddid,misshurricanesforming.Andwhenthathappenedtherewaslittle bombers hadbeenconvertedtohurricanehunters.Theydidagoodjobbutthey changed dramatically.WhenIfirstarrived,acoupleofsix-engineB36long-range HURRICANES PAST If livingonboardintheEasternCaribbean, youcancontinuecruisingbutstayin Looking at After ‘Go WhereTheyAin’t’ After passingoverSt.Martin,Gonzalocurvednorth,missingtheVirginsbutscor- St. Martinalsohadwarningthatthetropicalstormwasapproaching,butasper During hurricaneseason,tropicalwavesregularly Klaus hitSt.Thomasinthemiddleofannual In Novemberof1984TropicalStormKlausformed Klaus andGonzalo Normally therearethreeormoredayswarning Today, withsatellitetrackingofweathersystems In the58yearsIhavebeeninCaribbean,trackingofhurricaneshas LEARNING FROM Iolaire Tropical HurricanesoftheNorthAtlanticOcean THE GHOSTS wascaughtbyHurricaneKlaus,Iobtainedacopyofthebook Compass atwww.caribbeancompass.com/online/june09com- OF Nordic Prince , andthesupplementsthatbring Compass

and studyingthetracks , thegovernmentson SEAWISE WITHDONSTREET Tropical either ashoreorinthewater,toreadit. who isspendingthehurricaneseasonin theEasternCaribbean,orleavingtheirboat everything Iwrotein’89andupdated 1992andagainin2002.Iadviseeveryone at iUniverse.comorAmazon).Ihavereread itwhilewritingthisarticleandIstandby those years. there arenohurricanesintheEastern Caribbean. Letushopethat2015isoneof while laidup. ments arenotsatisfactory,askwhatmustbedonetokeeptheinsuranceineffect underwriter thatyouarecovered.Ifthesaysyourlay-uparrange- check yourinsurancepolicy,andaskbrokertodoublewith the money theownerwaswillingtospend. tion, thedifferenceinchockingmethodswasusuallyinfluencedbyamount of chocked boatswere,andwhetherthemastwasinorout.Wherethereavaria- some goodandpoor.Evenwithinyardstherewasavariationastohow well mendous variationinthechockingofboats.Someyards’systemswereexcellent, instructions here. built cradles,strippingallsailsandcanvaswhenlayingup,etcetera,Iwillnotrepeat articles sincethenhavebeenwrittenaboutproperchocking,tiedowns,specially must expectagoodsolidhitonfairlyregularbasis.Planaccordingly. From St.BartswesttotheeastcoastofPuertoRico,youareinhurricanealley and times since1871,andtheSt.Lucia–Martiniquearea49times. storms of40to60knotshitGrenadain1928,’32,’38,’87and‘90. Grenada washitbytwohurricanesinweeks.Itagain1888.Tropical Grenada tookanumberofbadhitsbyhurricanes:in1876andthenagain1887, and in2005byEmily.Peopleforgetthattheclosingyearsof19thcentury hit thesouthendofislandratherthannorthend. times since1871,thelasttwoin1993and2002.Surprisingly,hurricanes from 40to60knotstogether. mation Ihaveupdatedthrough2014.lumpedhurricanesandtropicalstorms approximate hurricanefrequencyforvariousislandsandislandgroups.Thisinfor- Islands, USVIandPuertoRicocausedbyHurricaneHugoin1989*,Iworkedoutthe called “ReflectionsonHugo”asaresultofthemassivedestructioninLeeward often doesnotmatchupwithwhat have beenintheprevious120yearsthathurricanesreported. have beenmore“late”—October,NovemberandDecemberhurricanesthanthere of thehurricanebox. approaches, headsouthasfastyoucantogetof12°N,thesouthernedge you arecoveredforallthenormalmarineperilsinhurricanebox.Ifa covered fordamagecausedbyanamedstormifyouareinthehurricanebox,but policy. Aproperpolicythathasahurricaneexclusionboxnotesyouarenot pass_online.pdf.) Whencruisingduringhurricaneseason,checkyourinsurance *“Reflections onHugo”waswrittenin1989 andreprintedinallmyguides(available A checkof Before firmlycommittingtolayingupafloatorashoreduringhurricaneseason, Traveling throughtheislandsinwintersof2012-13and2013-14Isawatre- Ivan wasawake-upcallforallhauloutfacilitiesupanddowntheislands.Somany Lay-Up Wake-Up Nevertheless, thehurricanefrequencyinfar-southislandsisrelativelylow. The GrenadinesandSt.Vincenthavebeenhitbyhurricanesortropicalstorms32 Grenada wasspectacularlyhitin1955byHurricaneJanet,then2004Ivan Trinidad isbasicallysouthofthehurricanebelt,buthasbeenhitthree Regarding frequencyofhurricaneshittinganisland,whatthetouristboardssay The hurricaneseasonhasmovedaboutamonthlater.Inthelast30yearsthere Stay Alert Tropical CyclonesoftheNorthAtlanticOcean Tropical Cyclones says. WhenIwroteanarticle shows thatinsomeyears JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

list my boat for? For most sellers this is a simple question. list my boat for? For most

How much should I The Price is Right boats are priced too high, and many priced much too In my experience, almost all For those that want to get the maximum, it requires more time and sometimes the For those that want to get the maximum, it requires more or that they owe money Many have told me that they “do not want to lose money” or her surveyor will list a Moreover, the buyer will have the boat surveyed and his Trade? Do not be afraid to say that you will take a trade-in boat. Most sellers are afraid to Make it Sweet If you are going to put your boat up for sale, do all you can do to organize her. Get Lastly, make the package as “sweet” as can be for the selling broker. If you have a The truth is that in order to sell in a reasonable period of time, the boat must showThe truth is that in order to high, when the boat is first listed for sale. When a boat is priced too high, it sits listed for sale. When a boat is priced too high, it high, when the boat is first has a reputation among boat listings as “the one that without “action” and develops sits — must be something wrong!” The longer a boat just sat on the market too long will be to sell. waiting to sell, the harder it boat simply does not sell. The longer you own the boat, the greater your expenses boat simply does not sell. The longer you own the boat, and maintenance while it is will be, including the cost of a slip, insurance, cleaning details and then do not under- for sale. Many owners go home and forget about such being used and being locked stand why the boat is not selling. Think of your boat not of humidity stains, the inte- up. After a few months, the sheets begin to show signs fills with rainwater, the rior of the cabin develops an unappealing smell, the dinghy leak in the rear stateroom bilge pump gets stuck and the bilge fills with water, that which becomes damp and that you meant to have fixed drips water onto the bunk working. Day by day, the unattractive. The refrigerator goes on the blink and stops on the baker’s shelf too long. boat becomes more and more like a cake that has sat Most boats do not appreciate to the bank and must sell the boat to cover the loan. than you paid for it. Boats and in almost all cases you will receive less for the boat will offer up a long list of are not good investments. That having been said, owners Upgrades to a boat often fail things they have replaced and list the associated costs. boat with all of its equipment to add value. What they do is help sell the boat, for a to get a boat in good working obsolete or broken does not sell well. Buyers expect in good order. order and expect the boat to have appropriate equipment number of recommendations and upgrades that should be made. The buyer will normally ask the seller for a concession and submit their survey as “proof” that their request is appropriate. If the boat is priced below market, the seller can say, “The boat is favorably priced” and any upgrade the buyer may want is to their account. In such a case the buyer normally realizes, often because the broker has told them, that they should not “push too hard for concessions” as they are buying the boat for an excellent price. Pricing a boat below market also gets rid of the “bottom fishers”, as when they make their ridiculous offers, such offers can be disregarded by the broker as he knows he has good prospects of a sale in the near future. do this, as they want out cleanly (doesn’t everyone!). However, if you are willing to take a trade, you will dramatically increase the number of prospective buyers for your boat. Many buyers will have a smaller boat that they will need to dispose of first in order to buy your boat. If your broker is knowledgeable and trustworthy he can advise you as to value, and if you sell your 45-foot boat and take a 30-footer in trade, you can then list the trade and sell that as well. (You never know; you might like it and keep it.) As boats grow smaller and the price lessens, selling becomes easier. You do not have to say you might take a trade upfront. You can whisper it in the broker’s ear: “If a qualified buyer comes along and what is holding him back is that he owns a good smaller boat, please get all the details so we can consider making a deal.” You do not have to accept “Noah’s Ark” in trade and can always say no to what is being offered, or even to the price it is being offered at. rid of all the that has accumulated. Repair items that detract a great deal. If you do not address these issues before the boat is listed, the boat will have its appeal compromised. new dinghy and engine, do not take them off the boat and sell them separately. Reinforce the boat’s selling profile by giving more to the prospective buyer. Human nature is that people like more for less. If your boat surprises potential buyers by looking good and coming with all the goodies (extra docking lines, spare parts, etcet- era, etcetera) your boat has a much better chance of selling. They say, “For the maximum that I can get” or, “For her maximum value”. They say, “For the maximum know that he will get his commission, and the price shouldreally well, the broker must below market? A boat priced below market gets everyonebe slightly below market. Why and with a straight face, “This boat is priced below market excited. The broker can say will not stay on the market very long.”given her condition and equipment

by Frank Virgintino WHEN THE TIME COMES WHEN my Captain! our fearful trip is done, our fearful trip my Captain!

You should also spend some time to track down the right broker. The location of Location, Location The worst thing that many sellers do is get disgusted and decide to leave the boat This is why an excellent survey coupled with an excellent broker is an unbeatable Many do-it-yourselfers also get to meet the “bottom fishers”. This is a group of For the do-it-yourselfers, you get to waste many an afternoon by spending it with How will you know if you have found the right broker? The broker should be well How will you know if you have found the right broker? Why Use a Broker? to a broker because it is not I have heard many say, “I will not pay a commission After you have your survey in hand, it is time to find an excellent broker who is After you have your survey in hand, it is time to find Whichever way you choose, the boat needs to be described, the condition of the Whichever way you choose, the boat needs to be described, Some sellers do not want to go to the expense of hiring a surveyor, and the next Some sellers do not want to go to the expense of hiring Not all surveyors are equal. The surveyor should have a strong background in the Not all surveyors are equal. The surveyor should have Define What You are Selling boat, one of the first things Unless you have someone who definitely wants your So, when it comes time to sell, where does one begin? Get the condition of the boat So, when it comes time to sell, where does one begin? Boat sales are affected by general market conditions. This is often the major macro market conditions. This is often the major macro Boat sales are affected by general In the nearly four decades I have spent owning and operating marinas and dealingIn the nearly four decades It is said that “All good things come to an end.” For most of us who love cruising, come to an end.” For most of us who love cruising, It is said that “All good things O Captain! The ship has weather’d every rack, the prize we sought is won, rack, the prize has weather’d every The ship exulting… hear, the people all near, the bells I The port is the broker is another important factor. Do not compromise in this regard. You may have to spend some effort and even money to move the boat to the right broker, but it is worth it. A great boat in the wrong location will be “under trafficked” and will take longer to sell. just anywhere to be sold. They go back home and expect that a miracle will happen. The best axiom to follow is: “When your vital interests are at stake, there is no sub- stitute for your physical presence.” You should be present for the survey. starting point. people who spend their time looking at used boats to see if they can find a seller desperate enough to sell them a boat for a fraction of its real value. They come on sincere, show a real interest in the boat and then launch into a monologue about how depressed the boating industry is, how boats are not selling well and how you happen to have a model which is not in high demand — wrong configuration, wrong color, wrong motor, etcetera — when in fact the buyer is a wolf in sheep’s clothing. “tire kickers”. Many people enjoy simply looking at boats and will think nothing of spending a day looking at yours. They will be so interested that when you offer to take them sailing, they will jump at the opportunity! However, at the end of the day, most private sellers will have only what the industry refers to as “mind deals” to show for their labors. Mind deals are the promise of a potential buyer to come back to buy the boat — something that does not happen very often. Or in the alternative, the seller does sell the boat to the buyer — only to find out that the buyer has no credit history and does not have the resources to purchase the boat. established and should have a proven track record of advertising the boats that he has in his brokerage. Check the boats that he is offering for sale and see if he has advertised them consistently. He or she must also have a proven record of selling the type of boat you own. Ask them how many boats similar to yours they have listed in the last two or three years, and how many of them were actually sold. Ask for a list. A good broker will be up front and willing to answer questions of that nature. worth it.” In most cases, they could not be more incorrect. A good broker will work worth it.” In most cases, they could not be more incorrect. the advertising and promo- very hard for his or her commission. He is charged with He is also charged with the tion of the boat; that is his most important function. broker is patient and kind, ongoing process of showing and selling the boat. A good answers their many ques- helps the potential buyers to understand the boat and if the characteristics of your tions. A really good broker will qualify the buyer to see if the buyer has the boat really are what the buyer is looking for and to determine resources to be able to purchase the boat. located in an area that supports the resale of your boat. boat needs to be reviewed, the equipment needs to be listed, and a list of recent boat needs to be reviewed, the equipment needs to put in a new refrigeration sys- upgrades and their cost should also be listed. If you it should be noted. If the tem, sail or chart plotter, etcetera, in the last few years, also be noted. If there are boat has recently been hauled and serviced, that should also be noted. For example, special facts that are relevant and pertinent, they should The other model of the boat “This boat is the shoal- model and only draws 4’9”. 7’.” Facts like these are very that was manufactured, the fixed keel model, draws important and should not be overlooked. best thing to a survey is for the owner to do a complete write-up and inventory as if best thing to a survey is for the owner to do a complete weight as an independent the owner were the surveyor. It does not carry as much of facts. survey but it is better than a disorganized compilation type of boat you have. Ask the surveyor for a list of some of the most recent boats type of boat you have. Ask the surveyor for a list of some to the one you own. he has surveyed in broad terms and see if they are similar that you must do is find out what it is that you are selling, define it so to speak. that you must do is find out what it is that you are is to have the boat surveyed There are a number of ways to do this, the best of which and the one you want to by a reputable surveyor. There are many types of surveys an independent surveyor ask for is a “condition survey.” This is important, because that are peculiar will review your boat and its equipment, recite the measurements areas. The more thor- to your boat, and review its layout and condition in different ough a survey is the better. organized and in good order. Set the price carefully and slightly under the market. organized and in good order. Set the price carefully and factor. Of micro factors there are many: the age and condition of the boat, geograph- factor. Of micro factors there the the seller and the buyer, availability of financing, ic location, expectations of the of the year and all the myriad other factors that are boat’s survey results, time and the seller. Many of us have paid a goodly sum result of the profile of the buyer beyond to maintain and upgrade. For most, the sell- for our boat and then invested by emotions that are evoked by many different factors. ing of a boat is complicated also when it comes to our boats, which for many of us are We do not like change and our homes, we are very emotionally attached. with boats, one of the most complicated things I have ever dealt with — in businesswith boats, one of the most of a boat. The entire matter is a complicated enterprise. and personally — is the sale owing to a variety of factors and life-changing events there will come a day when it and life-changing events there will come a day when owing to a variety of factors for sale. is time to put our boat up — Walt Whitman — Walt JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 an rates low represent season Our off we excellent and value, are also welcome in the ‘Spice Island’ during the summer months. summer the during welcome Island’ ‘Spice the in awarm of yacht why are numbers owners enjoying which is growing belt, hurricane Grenada main south of the is aboveLying just 12°N, — www.cnmarinas.com/plm – or email [email protected] on+1 (473) Donelan 7431 Danny 435 Call – – – – – – – &Nicholsons. by Camper run marina you’d from afull-service expect amenities the all with berth provides secure asafe, Marina Louis Port the summer. And an additional additional an And summer. the ormore through months astay ofthree book May and during arrive that Contact us for details (conditions apply). for us Contact details for days 90 advance. ormore in paying and booking vessels — The perfect place to spend the Caribbean summer Port Louis Grenada: Marina, — Excellent air links nearby facilities technical and Haul-out pool swimming and restaurant Bar, 24 hour security Free broadband Water and electricity Early Arrivals Discount of40% Discount Arrivals Early Low Season Discount Season Low off the standard daily rate, daily for standard yachts the is available to available is ering LOA in feet Daily $/ft/day Weekly $/ft/day Monthly $/ft/day Monthly Weekly $/ft/day Daily $/ft/day LOA in feet pt 0 17 15 $0.87 $1.53 $1.70 up to 100 pt 0$.0$.7$0.61 $1.17 $1.30 up to 60 pt 0$.5$.9$0.85 $1.49 $1.65 up to 80 pt 0$.0$.9$0.50 $0.99 $1.10 up to 40 pt 0$.0$.8$0.55 $1.08 $1.20 up to 50 pt 5$.5$.1$0.68 $1.31 $1.45 up to 65 pt 5$.0$.5$0.69 $1.35 $1.50 up to 75 pt 2$.5$.7$0.41 $0.77 $0.85 up to 32 For yachts above 100 feet LOA, and for bookings of longer periods, periods, oflonger LOA, for feet bookings and above 100 For yachts to yachts staying consecutively for 7 days or 30 days respectively. for 7days 30 or consecutively staying to yachts please contact us for a personalised quote. are Multihulls charged quote. usfor apersonalised contact please at 1.5 times the standard rate. Weekly and monthly rates apply monthly and rate. Weekly standard the times at 1.5 New rates: 1June to November 30 2015 JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

, a BB Roulette, is a good Roulette was lost on the Toro Tradewinds (like Water Pearl in Bequia alongside Nolly Water Pearl , Just Now , a , a Just Now — Bequia’s last . Forty years later, Chris bases his first novel A Novel of A Novel is the first novel by Chris is the first novel by Chris is based on the historical record of Nazi submarine warfare in the is based on the historical record of Nazi submarine Water Pearl Romanux Sailors, Island Sailors, Available at Island Water World and from www.tradewindpublishing.com. The sailing scenes are depicted with an insider’s knowledge of all the facets of Tradewinds: A Tale of the Caribbean Tradewinds: A Tale of the Tradewinds On a trip home to California, he bumped Tradewinds History and Lore History yarn for a rainy night, and for non-sailors there is a detailed glossary of sailing terms and West Indian expressions that haven’t changed in the intervening 70 years. canvas, wind, waves, local weather, dialogue and geography, and they carry the book to its exciting conclusion. Jack and crew sail the entire island chain from Trinidad to St. Martin, and life on Petit Silhouette is pretty much as one would imagine it was on these islands in the 1940s. This is definitely a book about sailors and for sailors, as well as anyone who is interested in island history and lore. Crowninshield design, though scaled down) and her crew, and Bowman writes Crowninshield design, though scaled down) and her incidental characters such about both ship and crew with insight and affection. The agent Harry, and the multi- as the submarine captain Nils, the British intelligence to infiltrate Martinique — are lingual Bajan called “Rabbit” — Harry’s man chosen Rabbit on Vichy-controlled all well drawn. McLeod is drafted into helping Harry plant Martinique to gather intelligence. Simmons’ in the Lesser Antilles In the 1970s, author Chris Bowman built BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF BY BOB BOOK REVIEW and his crew are very reminiscent of the by CE Bowman, Tradewind Publishing by CE Bowman, Tradewind ©2014, paperback, 439 pages. ISBN 978-0-9942-480-5. American living Bowman, a transplanted in Australia. for the past quarter century came here in Well known on Bequia, Chris the mid-1970s and built 40-foot gaff-rigged sloop, on the beach in Port Elizabeth. into some high school friends who were building Bob Dylan’s mansion in Malibu. He met Dylan and talked of Bequia and how the boatbuilders here still made traditional sloops and from local cedar trees, using mostly hand tools. Dylan was entranced and ordered a schooner. Built with the help of local partner Nolly Simmons and boat- builders including Albert Crosby, Lincoln Ollivierre, Lanceford Hazell, Herbert Ollivierre, Gilbert Hazell and Lauren Dewar, the 67-foot schooner — was launched in 1980 from the area where Dive Bequia now stands. After a few years of day charter work based in St. Martin, to sail to the Pacific. Point reef at the entrance to the Panama Canal while attempting hurt. Chris ended up raising Fortunately for Captain Bowman and crew, no one was continued to build boats. a family in Perth with his Australian wife, Vanessa, and chain, sinking oil freighters Caribbean, when German U-boats terrorized the island Jack McLeod, is a former and local vessels with impunity in 1942. The novel’s hero, called Petit Silhouette with his rum-running Australian living on a Grenadine island 113-foot schooner, local wife and children when the war breaks out. His

ALEXIS ANDREWS , Vanishing Sail , belongs in the collection of every . Other characters are drawn into the story, Vanishing Ways . And Water Pearl , his own Carriacou boatbuilder Alwyn Enoe is featured in a new film Carriacou boatbuilder Alwyn Genesis Gloria Colita . Sir James Mitchell, is a beautiful film in every way. As the credits rolled in St. Barths, contains sequence after sequence of profound beauty. They take the A TRIUMPH Vanishing Sail: Sail: Vanishing Warspite The film will be screened during this summer and fall at selected film festivals prior Vanishing Sail Full disclosure here. I was involved in organizing the footage early in the editorial Emil Gumbs, former First Minister The story line follows Alwyn Enoe Alexis Andrews already has a reputation as a fine photographer. His two-volume The big screen fills with a frothy wake behind a fast sailing vessel. All the world is The big screen fills with a frothy wake behind a fast sailing to a general release. Visit Vanishingsail.com for further information; you can sign up for e-mail updates. the applause was thunderous and long. Hearts were full. A rare story, and one important to the culture of the islands, had been told with grace and honesty and a true eye for what’s beautiful here. process. Alexis is a generous collaborator, and he sought out many eyes and minds to help refine the material. But it is entirely his film. He is the one who had the cour- age to ignore the present fad for fast cuts and hectic pacing and to allow this film to breathe, to move along gently, like things tend to do in these islands. Many of the silent passages, where the camera lingers on faces, old fishermen, young children, life being lived, are deeply moving. And though the pace is relaxed, the film seems shorter than it is. viewer into the Caribbean way of life in an intimate and real way, unsullied by false sentiment. As the film unfolds, it becomes apparent that the subjects speaking both like and trust the man they’re talking to. A quiet civility and gentle sense of humor give the film the feel of life in the Islands. There were moments when the crowd laughed as one. There were also moments when eyes misted with emotion. lover of traditional boats. He has now become a superb film cameraman and director. Vanishing Sail of Anguilla, talks about his family’s schooner Carriacou sloop, built. Alwyn is elo- quent and dignified as he talks of his love for designing and building boats, and his fear that the art will be lost if none of the young men continue building. We see them as they go into the hills and cut local cedar for the frames, drag the logs out by hand and then shape them into the skeleton of the sloop with adze and plane. As the boat rises on the beach, the film fills in the background and history of sail in the Islands. former Prime Minister of St. Vincent & the Grenadines, tells about his fami- ly’s three-master, and his sons as they build Alwyn’s “last boat” on spec on the beach in Windward, Carriacou. Andrews couldn’t have had a better protago- nist, or Alwyn a more sympathetic director. The men became friends when Alexis had book about the Carriacou sloops, Andrew’s evocative portrait of a boatbuilding family and a way of life in these islands Andrew’s evocative portrait of a boatbuilding family and Film Festival. The venue was a fine choice to close the 20th annual St. Barth’s was the fleet of island boats in couldn’t have been more perfect. Stern-to at the quay the film. Anticipation for this port for the West Indies Regatta, the very subjects of film was intense, and it didn’t disappoint. Nolly Simmons tells about the build- ing on Bequia of Bob Dylan’s to illuminate the ways of the past, all to great effect, but always, the through line is Alwyn Enoe and his sons, and the boat rising on the beach in Windward. water. The crowd on the quay in St. Barth’s falls silent. Alexis Andrews’ voice speaks water. The crowd on the quay in St. Barth’s falls silent. a spell is cast. the opening lines of narration. The music rises, and FILM REVIEW BY TOM GALLANT FILM REVIEW JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 northern hemisphere. of theyear.At1239isJuneSolstice(theSummerSolstice)forusin currently 41percentilluminated. illuminated andverybright.Venusiscontinuingtodimduringthisperiod.It after sunsetJupiterwillappearaboveVenus.bealmost100percent planets willbeapproximatelyfivedegreesnorthofthesliverMoon.Lookingwest god ofwareither. 0605. MarsisalsorightinlinewiththeSunsoyoucan’tsee at 0543.TheNewMoonmomentfollowsshortlythereafter, The MoonispositionednearlyinfrontoftheSunandalsorising into theoceandepths. European SpaceAgencyESAtoprovidetheprobethatwilldive planned launchdateisinthemid-2020s.NASAhasasked could hostconditionsfavorableforlife.The this JuneorJuly.ThereisevidencethattheoceansofEuropa taking placeandthedevelopmentofspacecraftcouldbegin from theWhiteHouse.Thespacecraft’sconceptdesignhasbeen Europa tion ofelectronics. puters, wirelessinternet,mobilephonesandtheminiaturiza- cine, medicalimaging,weatherforecasting,GPS,personalcom- everyone. Someofthebenefitsincludeadvancementsinmedi- obtained throughprogramslikeNASAandtheESAbenefit (US$4,783,229,165). Theknowledgeobtainedfromtheresearch Space Agency)spacebudgetfor2015is4,433,000,000Euros half ofonepercentthetotalUSbudget.TheESA(European nectar ofthegods!ForNASA,moneyusedamountstoone much yeastonEarththatisjustwaitingtobeturnedintothe spend themoneysendingyeastintospace?Afterall,thereisso on spacewhenwehavesomanyproblemshereEarth?”Why tion. Theusualquestionaskedis“Whyarewespendingmoney resources andnotconvinceyouofthevaluespaceexplora- fecting. nique ofgrowinggrainsandgrapeshydroponicallyneedsper- ages willalsomakethecrewsmarter,right?However,tech- Brewing beerorwinemightmakeahappycrew.Thosebever- benefit theastronautsthatwillmakelongjourneytoMars. beer. Thescienceofbrewingbeerachievedfromthatbatchmay creatures thatsurvivedthetripwereusedtobrewacelestial to Mid-July Mid-June The Skyfrom In thewesternskyMoonnowappearsnearRegulus,heartofLeo. Some daysmightseemliketheyneverend,buttodayistrulythelongestday Sunday, June21st Venus andJupitertakepositionsneartheMoon.Both Saturday, June20th We startthemorningoffwithSunrisingat0543hours. Tuesday, June16th For thoseinspiredbyspaceexploration,thefundingfor The sendingofyeastintospacemayseemlikeawaste Space beerishere!Asmallbrewerysentyeastonaroundtriptospace.Thelittle ison!Themissiongotadditionalbudgetsupport by JimUlik Europa Clipper’s THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY!

FIGURE 1 NASA/JPL the moonsofJupiter oceans ofEuropa,one Looking forlifeinthe will beinthesoutheasternskyjustbelowtailofScorpius. and namedin1985byDavidB.GoldsteinatthePalomarObservatory.Theasteroid Jimihendrix willmakeitsclosestapproachtoEarth.Theasteroidwasdiscovered Saturn willbealmost100percentilluminated. find Saturn.ItwillbeabouttwodegreesbelowandslightlysouthoftheMoon. you willseetheredsupergiantAntares.Grabapairofbinocularsandifcan darker, thethreestarsmarkingclawsofScorpiusarebecomingbrighter.Below the firstquarterMoonsoyouwillonlysee65percentofMoon. lation’s starSpicaapproximatelythreedegreessouthoftheMoon.Itisonedaypast and itwillsetat2354. tides andsmallervariationsbetweenlowhightidelevels.TheMoonrisesat1133 is havingits340thbirthday.TheobservatorywasfoundedbyKingCharlesIIin1675. “Excuse mewhileIkissthesky.”YouwillnotseeaPurpleHaze,butasteroid4738 Monday, June29th Look upinthesoutheasternskyafter1900tofindMoon.Asgets Sunday, June28th Tonight theMoonwillbeinconstellationVirgo.Thereyouseethatconstel- Thursday, June25th The Moonisatapogee—itsfarthestorbitalpointfromEarth.Therewillbelower Tuesday, June23th The UKRoyalObservatory,homeofGreenwichMeanTimeandthePrimeMeridianline, Monday, June22nd —Continued onnextpage JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W will give us our New Horizons Dominican Republic spacecraft arrival date at Pluto. spacecraft arrival date at Pluto. is a photographer and cruiser currently based in Grenada. THE FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMENTT iiiii spacecraft has arrived at Pluto after a nine-and-a-half-year spacecraft has arrived at Pluto after a nine-and-a-half-year Z Write for details: [email protected] New Horizons

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MMMM Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Marina Zar-Par HURRICANE SEASON STORAGE FOR CRUISING BOATS up to 50' In the News NASA’s Wednesday, July 15th 2124. If you are up before 0500 you will find Orion ris- Today is the New Moon at A leap second will be added to clocks. The addition of the second is to compensate addition of the second is will be added to clocks. The A leap second last few days. each other over the have been approaching Venus and Jupiter 1st Wednesday, July the Earth from will be directly opposite occurs at 2221. The Moon The Full Moon Tuesday, July 14th its way towards Venus and Jupiter. Just after Leo’s heart, Regulus, is making This is the official Congratulations to University Gardens High School of San Juan, Puerto Rico for Congratulations to University Gardens High School of unless otherwise noted. The All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) Jim Ulik of New Horizons at Pluto ing in the east. Mars will rise shortly after Orion and preceding the sunrise. ing in the east. Mars will rise for the slowing down of Earth’s rotation. for the slowing even though it is Venus will be brighter will appear 0.2 degrees apart. Tonight they from Earth and the Sun as viewed illuminated. Jupiter is opposite only 34 percent 3). illuminated (see Figure nearly 100 percent (closest point to Moon will be at perigee will be fully illuminated. The the Sun and 5th. Earth) on July less than two degrees south of Venus. sunset you will find Regulus journey. The spacecraft was launched on January 19th, 2006. An important connec- journey. The spacecraft was launched on January 19th, of organic compounds on tion between Pluto and life on Earth is the likely presence Pluto’s surface and water ice in the planet’s interior. The spacecraft’s antenna will first close-up views of the dwarf planet and its moons. that it passes through Pluto’s receive a powerful radio beam from Earth, aimed so to plot the temperature and atmosphere. That will provide scientists with the data density profile of the atmosphere down to the surface. Rover Challenge’s high school the first-place finish in the NASA Human Exploration to design, construct, test and division. The Rover Challenge required student teams simulating terrain poten- race human-powered rovers through an obstacle course place went to Rafaelina tially found on distant planets, asteroids or moons. Second 95 registered student Lebron Flores of Patillas, Puerto Rico. Participants included 18 states and Puerto Rico, teams from high schools, colleges and universities across and . as well as international teams from , India, Mexico may vary by only a few min- times are based on the viewing position in Grenada and utes in different Caribbean locations. Figure 2 in the southeastern sky Asteroid 4738 Jimihendrix, ‘Stone Free’ to ride the breeze at 2000 hours Figure 3 but are far from each other Jupiter and Venus appear together in the western sky in their orbits

FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 Continued from previous page Continued from Tuesday, June 30th Tuesday, June June 30th the first official Asteroid Day. close approach just missed Jimihendrix’s marks the anniversary of the 1908 Siberian Tunguska event. It was the largest aster- Tunguska event. It was of the 1908 Siberian marks the anniversary is to raise public intent of Asteroid Day Earth in recent history. The oid to impact the detec- Earth. NASA has increased the threat of an asteroid hitting awareness of initiative since launching its asteroid asteroids by 65 percent tion of near-Earth hazardous aster- of known potentially Yet the estimated percentage three years ago. disaster that, impact is the only natural only 20 percent. An asteroid oids (PHA) is completely preventable. in principle, is — JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 field guidesaswellchildren’sbookson whales,dolphins,sharksandcoralreefs. consultant. Shehasauthorednumerous scientificpublicationsandmarinemammal sonar findsitimpossibletopickupother sounds. Apparently thenoiseshrimpcreate issointensethattheothersubmarine’s have beenknowntohideamongbedsof pistolshrimptohidefromsonardetection. diers aremales. young andsoldierswhoprotectthecolony withtheirhugeclaws.Mostofthesol- possibly asinglemale.Theoffspringaredividedintoworkerswhocarefor the bubble wrapatonce! knuckles atonce,orlikesizzlingoffatinapan,hundredpeoplebursting loud cracklingsoundhasbeendescribedasifahundredpeoplearecrackingtheir witnessed theceaselesscacophonythatcoloniesoftheseshrimpsproduce;their made inheaven! tail movementsandthenbothretreatintothesafetyofsharedburrow.Amatch the gobythroughitsantennaeandalertsshrimpbycharacteristic shrimp digsforbothitselfandthegobytolivein.Thekeepsincontactwith the exchange,shrimpprovidesgobywithfoodandburrowthat the goby hasgoodeyesightandthuswarnstheshrimpofanyapproachingpredator. In even killsmallfish.Itthenpullsthestunnedcatchintoitsburrowandfeedson it. ing prey.Thepressureofthesnappingbubbleissufficienttostunapassingcrab or movement, itinchesoutofitshidingplaceandshootsflashybubblesatthepass- Then itextendsitsantennaeoutwardstodetermineifpreyispassing.Oncefeels shrimp. Whilehunting,thelittleshrimphidesinanobscuredspotlikeaburrow. frames persecond. nating creature’sabilitiesthroughultrahigh-speedcamerasthattake40,000 and can’tbeseenbythenakedeye.Researcherswereonlyabletostudythisfasci- the loudsoundisalmostinstantaneous.Ittakesplacewithin300microseconds implode —POP! moving fluidstoexpandandifthepressurebuildsbackup,bubblescollapse liquid decreases.Whenthispressuredrops,itallowstinyairbubblesinthesefast- which statesthatwhenaliquidmovesabovecertainspeed,thepressurewithin bursts withaloudsnap.ThisphenomenoncanbeexplainedbyBernoulli’sprinciple, to 62milesanhour(100km/hr)—generatesalow-pressurecavitationbubblethat action oftheclawactuallyshootsoutahighvelocityjetwaterwhosespeed—up each other.Butresearchhassinceshownthatthisisn’tthecase.Therapidsnapping and makesitstooth-shapedplungermoveintoanicheintheotherhalfofclaw. When theshrimpreleaseshammerpartofclawitsnapsperfectlyintoposition backward intoaright-angledposition,andtheotherpartisinfixedclosedposition. is designedratherlikeapistolwithtwoparts:onepart“hammer”thatmoves claw andtheoriginalsmallerappendagewillgrowintoanewsnappingclaw. claws: iftheylosethesnappingclaw,missinglimbwillregenerateintoasmaller wearing anovergrownboxingglove. portionately largeclawcanbeuptohalfitsbodysize,whichmakesitlooklikeit’s shrimp sportsonenormalclawandnoticeablylarger“snapperclaw”.Itsdispro- sound reaching218decibels its sizefoolyou.Thepint-sizedcritteriscapableofproducinga one totwoinches(threefivecentimetres)long,butdon’tlet noises intheocean. apart, makingastunningimplosionandoneoftheloudest serious punch.Onemightyclawshutssofastitripsthewater “What’s thatsound?” port becausehe’saninternationalcitizen!Thismonth,heasks, swims throughouttheCaribbeanSea.Hedoesn’tneedapass- tropical seasandcanbeeasilyidentifiedbytheirasymmetrical killing prey,and,indefense,aspartofathreatdisplay. ing glassjars.Theclawsnapofpistolshrimpisimportantasameansstunning/ PROUDLYSPONSOREDBYCONSERVATION: Dr. NathalieWardisamarinebiologist, conservationeducatorandmarinepolicy Another fascinatingthingabouttheseamazing creaturesisthatnavalsubmarines Colonies ofsnappingshrimpconsistasinglelargefemale,thequeen,and This speciesalsolivesincoloniesthatcannumberover300members.Divershave The pistolshrimpoftensharesasymbioticassociationwiththegobyfish. The shrimpusesthisinherenttalentforhuntingprey;henceit’scalledthepistol The snapofthebubblesalsoproducessomethingknownassonoluminescence It wasoncebelievedthatthesoundgeneratedwhentwoclawsurfaceshit Unlike regularshrimpclawsthesnappingarenotpincers.Instead,claw The shrimpmayfeaturethespecialclawoneitherarmandhaveabilitytoreverse This tinyshrimpspecies( Despite itssizethepistolshrimporsnappingpacksa Salty isahumpbackwhalewholovestosing.Everywinterhe These crustaceansareoftenadirty-greencolor.Theyprowltheshallowwatersof Pop —TheTaleof Snap, Crackleand the PistolShrimp SALTY’SBEATBYNATHALIEWARD Alpheus heterochaelis , whichislouderthanagunshotandcapableofbreak- ) growstoonly the burstofbubbleand the snappingofclawto of light. duces ashort,intenseflash The sonoluminescencepro- 5,800 Kelvin(5,500°C)! sun, estimatedataround hot asthesurfaceof Kelvin. Thatisalmostas degrees Celsiusor5,000 temperatures ofover4,700 cavitation caused whenthecollapsing bursts oflight),whichis (i.e., emissionofshort The wholeprocessfrom

claws —thepistol

bubble reaches

early sailors. ocean currentsthat“corral”theseaweed.ThisSargassoSeawaswellknown by Antilles andsoutheastofBermuda.Thisregionistheconfluencevarious also endsupintheso-calledSargassoSea,whichisanareanorthofGreater winds thendepositsomeofthemintheCaribbeanSea.Agreatdealthisweed They eventuallydriftouttotheAtlanticonGulfStream,wherecurrentsand majority ofthecoloniesoriginateinnorthwestcornerGulfMexico. as Gulfweed. Sargassum natans ent species,butthetypesthatweseemostfrequentlyinCaribbeanwatersare blue oftheocean.Thisissargassum. but canalsogiveboaterssomehassles Sargassum, orGulfweed,provideshabitatformarinelife… large matsoftheyellowishorolive-brownplants,colourscontrastingwith ing tohighheaven.Perhapsfromyourownboatyouhaveseensmallclumpsoreven smelly clumps,orevencoatingthebeach,makingenjoymentimpossiblewhilesmell- out for. — thevoiceofexperiencewhilephotographing itatsealastmonth! mats. other largepelagicfishcanoftenbefound lurkingunderorneartheseGulfweed fishermen lookforSargassumaspossible placestowetaline.Tuna,mahi-mahiand smaller preymakesamistakeandleaves thesafetyofentangledstrings.Many Deep underthematsofalgae,largerpredatoryfishbidetheirtimeuntilsome young fishandbabyturtles,thesecoloniescanprovidearefugefrompredators. floating coloniestheirhome.Fromminusculecrabsandinvertebratestolarger seaweed doeshaveauseinthegreaternaturalworld.Manyorganismsmakethese beaches canbequiteunpleasant,andthelargermatsmakenavigationahassle, the larger expanseofocean. they maybefoundassmallclumpsofplants,oralargemattedareacovering a and narrow,incontrasttofluitans’shorterstalksbroaderleaves.Onthewater, will havelittlespikes,whereasfluitans’donot.Thenatans’leavesarelong-stalked metres. Justincaseyou’dliketosailcloseenoughexaminethem,natans’pods gain alengthofuptothreemetresattimes,withthenormalsizecloserone two the stemsofalgaetofloateasilyonocean’ssurface.Theorstrings can plants. OthertypesofSargassumareabletoreproduceasexuallyaswell. need foranotherplant)bybreakingup—thesmallerpiecescontinueonasnew (normally) spendtheirlifeontheopenwater.Theyreproduceasexually(without the Sargassum fluitans Our SargassumcomesbyitsothernameofGulfweedveryhonestly,asthevast Sargassum isanalgae,asaremostseaweeds.Theremultitudesofdiffer- Saltwater sailorshaveallseenitatsometimeoranother.Washeduponshorein As youtravelthroughtheCaribbean,everymonththere’ssomethingspecialtolook LOOK OUTFOR… See relatedarticleonpage11. But Gulfweedcantangleuparudder,propeller oranengine-cooling-waterintake While there’snodenyingthatlargequantitiesofSargassumontheshoresand The basicGulfweedhasastem,fronds,andpods.podsaregas-filled,allowing Near-Shore Nuisance Pelagic Nurseryand and and Sargassum: natans Sargassum fluitans arepelagicalgae,inthattheyreproduce,growand by LynnKaak . Theyarealsoknowncollectively JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39

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BOATBLADDERS EVER BEFORE WITH... McIntyre Bros. Ltd. BOATBLADDERS (10 years and more…) +1-201-825-1400 GOT TRAVELRANGE? FARTHER FUEL BLADDERS t Auxiliary Fuel Bladders t 500 Gal. - Larger Sizes Readily Request Upon Available t Fuel Turbine Compatible t Ready to Ship WORLDWIDE TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA Readers, , Readers, readers should be aware of problems with readers should be aware Compass Compass Compass WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU! We want to hear from YOU! Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Send your letters to [email protected]. More and more cruisers are turning to data SIMS for More and more cruisers are plan of five gigabytes of For example: a certain data Apparently many customers fall foul of this and the If you purchase one of these packages make sure FUN WITH SEAGULLS Rufus Seagull, President of the Bequia Seagull “The argument against having an anchor light on all against having an anchor “The argument to conserve power, “However, if you really want DATA PLANS: CAVEAT EMPTOR have recently acquired their own darn fishing boat. This one smells right, and they are cautiously optimis- tic about the outcome of the upcoming fishing season. They are now waiting for the Ways and Means Committee report on outsourcing captain services before proceeding. Signed (with tongue in cheek), Bequia Seagull Association Dear address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Please keep letters shorter than 600 words. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. iPads and smartphones instead of WiFi. However iPads and smartphones Compass packages. If you are not some pay-as-you-go data of money. careful you can lose large amounts data costs EC$120 for 30 days. If you use more than five gigabytes the plan automatically ceases and you lose your connection to the Internet. If you then top up online with another EC$120 you will be reconnected — but if you omit to reactivate the data plan you will be charged one EC dollar per megabyte. Your EC$120 top-up will disappear within a few hours, and without warning your internet connection is lost again! money they have lost will not be refunded. When we purchased our initial plan in Grenada this was not explained, and we were not told how to reactivate the plan after topping up online. that you know not only how to top up but also how to reactivate the plan. Yours sincerely, John Lytle S/Y Oriole Dear Association, reports that the seagulls have grown tired of watching the fishermen have all the luck, and they on the deck deters intruders at night, but of course but of course deters intruders at night, on the deck we don’t look been robbed because maybe we haven’t worth robbing!) This that it takes too much electricity. night is usually wind gen- in these days of solar panels, doesn’t wash to fire up the and more people willing erators and more or they if the fridge isn’t cold enough engine or gen-set 10-watt bulb microwave. If you run a want to use the 8.3 amps out that’s 100 watts a night, or for 10 hours, great deal even for a single of a 12-volt battery. Not a 200-amp-hour battery. to try. You can cut down here’s an idea you might like with a light that flashes on consumption by almost half That’s much too fast and off at 60 or 70 times a second. unlike a flashing strobe, to be seen by the human eye, you are in no danger of which is actually illegal, and mark — or even for being mistaken for a north cardinal light.” a hovercraft if it’s a yellow CC Dear

' S there, something which may be there, something which may be for over a decade. Back in 2002, R E M , Compass U D something A R Compass E O “The definition of an all-round white light is that it “The definition of an all-round white light is that it “So what do we need to comply with regulations and “If you don’t think accidents happen, talk to some “Some people argue that it is not necessary to show a “We’ve always been convinced that it is a good idea “It’s one of those subjects that crop up. You know, like The use (or not) of anchor lights has been a source of Mr. Carruthers adds, “Clearly the lights in ques- “Colreg 72 rule 36 states: “If necessary to attract the attention of another vessel, Further to last month’s letter regarding the use of Further to last month’s letter ANCHOR LIGHTS AGAIN FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' of any size or shape. On the other hand, an anchor of any size or shape. On the other hand, an anchor light hung in the above the foredeck actually illuminates the boat. (We also have a theory that a light shows on ‘an unbroken arc of the horizon of 360 shows on ‘an unbroken arc of the horizon of 360 degrees’. That would seem to mean a -head light, though I find that a mast-head light only lets you know that there is cover ourselves against eventualities? The regulations say that you must carry a black ball by day — 0.6m in diameter if the vessel is over 20 metres, or of a size proportionate for smaller boats, so for, say, a 10-metre boat, 0.3m. Anything black and round will do, even a painted radar reflector, which will serve both purposes. At night, or in bad visibility, a vessel of less than 50 metres must show ‘an all-round white light where it can best be seen’. The visibility for this length of boat should be two miles. friends we used to cruise with in the Mediterranean. They had just anchored in the harbour of a Greek island when a jet-ski went out of control and hit the of the boat. The jet-ski driver was knocked unconscious and the pillion rider went flying right through the yacht’s fore-triangle, breaking an arm on the way. Luckily the correct day marks were being shown on the yacht, so there was no problem deciding whose fault it was. The yacht captain was even compensated for damages. But it could have been a very different story. light in a designated anchorage, but isn’t that just where accidents happen, especially if it is crowded? to show both an anchor ball by day and a light by night to show both an anchor ball by day and a light by night when anchored. Frankly, anything that might prevent someone ramming into the boat has always seemed worthwhile, or, if they do anyway, at least puts you in the right when it comes to an insurance claim. And if there is a collision, the chances are there will be an argument about who was to blame. So, why not cover yourself? Not to mention being able to find the boat when you come back after an evening out. blocked heads, refrigeration and where to get weather blocked heads, refrigeration and where to get weather information. There are people who think anchor lights are essential and those who don’t. Paul Frost wrote: discussion in tion are discouraged, but I know that in many parts tion are discouraged, but I know that in many parts of the world such lights as you describe are accept- ed. If still in doubt I would seek advice from the local harbour authorities.” Cap’n Pugwash S/V Tickle Yer Fancy Dear Pug, any vessel may make light or sound signals that cannot any vessel may make light or sound signals that cannot be mistaken for any signal authorized elsewhere in these Rules, or may direct the beam of her searchlight in the direction of the danger, in such a way as not to embarrass any vessel. Any light to attract the attention of another vessel shall be such that it cannot be mis- taken for any aid to navigation. For the purpose of this Rule the use of high intensity intermittent or revolving lights, such as strobe lights, shall be avoided. flashing lights and strobe lights in place of the normal flashing lights and strobe lights in place of the normal anchor light, we thought we’d try to check whether or not there was a rule to cover this. We e-mailed the Royal Yachting Association and received this reply from RYA Cruising Manager Stuart Carruthers: Dear JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 Month’s JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up

On aSubmarineinRoatan Read inNext All AshoreinCartagena for CaribbeanSailors Summer Reading … andmuchmore! Compass Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: : — back inKeyWestlateMay21st. tors. TheUSteamsandsupportboatsshouldarrive National SailingTeamandOlympicsailingcompeti- as Cuba-basedsailingteamsincludingtheCuba series ofraceswiththeUS-basedsailingteamsaswell Escrich oftheHemingwayInternationalYachtClub. Party willbehostedbyCommodoreJoséMiguelDíaz where aWelcome to MarinaHemingway shore legisenroute goes topress,theoff- issue of to 19vessels.Asthis brought thetotalfleet Support boats West’s SouthBeach. LeMans startoffKey leg oftherace,sawa Key West-to-Havana to Havana. just priortocrossing and sailingtechniques under racingloads ing characteristics and safetygear,sail- test communication a lastopportunityto served togivecrews competitive, also West. Thisrace,while ing beachinKey returned tothestart- committee yachtand mately 15milessouthfromKeyWest,aroundarace One, TheGulfStreamShakedown,sailedapproxi- was athree-partseriesofracesfor16-footHobies.Part the necessarylicensesforteamstoparticipate. Havana, Cuba.TheUSCommerceDepartmentissued racers departedKeyWestonMay18thinaraceto five two-manteamsofUS-basedHobieCatsailboat between thetwocitiesinmorethanhalfacentury, worldcruising.com/arc_usa formoreinformation. and thentoportsontheUSEastCoast. boats willsailwiththeARCEuropefleettoBermuda to arriveinBahiaMarMarina.Meanwhile16ARCUSA and shouldtakeapproximatelysevendaysforthem Atlantic swellsbytheTurks&CaicosandBahamas, Puerto Rico,HispaniolaandCuba,shelteredfromthe route willseethemsailingclosetothenorthshoresof Bahama ChanneltoFortLauderdale,Florida.The the ARCEuropefleet.SixboatswillsailviaOld Lagos, ,orotherEuropeanports. before sailingtotheAzoresandonMarinade andbejoinedbyafurthersevenboats, fleet setsailMay13th.Thefleetswillcombinein was delayedthankstoSub-TropicalStormAna;that fleet leavingfromPortsmouth,VirginiaUSA(sixboats) from NannyCay,Tortola(29boats).TheARCEurope Part Three,TheMalecon,isexpectedtofeaturea Part Two,the90-mile The HavanaChallenge,heldMay16ththrough21st, In thefirstUSgovernment-sanctionedsailingrace Historic KeyWest-to-HavanaRace Visit www.worldcruising.com/arc_Europeandwww. ARC USAsetsailfromNannyCay,Tortolaalongside Sailing theAtlanticwesttoeast,ARCEuropebegan in theLloydsmarket. able tointroduceboatownersspecialist brokers with brokersandunderwritersatLloyds andam business for47years.Ihavedeveloped arapport Continued frompage15…RegattaNews I havebeenconnectedwiththemarineinsurance Compass e-mail: [email protected] “I’ll domybesttominimizeyourincrease!” Thereisgoodinsurance,therecheap your insuranceisuntilyouhaveaclaim. Rather, thehonestbrokercanonlysay, No longercanbrokerstalkoflowrates. insurance,butthereisnogoodcheap The insurancebusinesshaschanged. insurance. Youneverknowhowgood www.street-iolaire.com Myclaimssettlementrecord Insurance

Marine cannot bematched. Fort-de-France, PrêcheurandLaTrinité. the windwardtownofRobert,withstopsatDiamant, island’s impressivesailingcraftwillbeginandendin through August2nd.Theeight-legeventforthe Rondes delaMartinique,willrunfromJuly26th Rondes, organizedbytheFédérationdesYoles support thisoff-seasonregatta. sloops. MountGay,DoyleSailsandBudgetMarine Saturday andMonday;Sundaywewatchthedecked race iswellsupported.Crewedracesfollowonthe too. OnJuly31st,theTwo-HandedRoundIsland Hillsborough isjumping. Small OpenBoatsalsoduelforhonours,and additional downwindsailsandspinnakers.Large engineless andsportingtheirracingrig,sailsmast, (“Carriacou Sloop”)classneverfailstoimpress— Monday inAugust.TheLargeDeckedSloop sail, beinCarriacouontheweekendoffirst for moreinformation. cultural exchangethroughthesportofsailing. petition designedtopromoteperson-to-personinter- crowds ofspectators. steering oar,YolesRondeshavelittleornokeel. windward onindividualpoles.Steeredwithalong is counterbalancedbycrewmembershikedoutto with asinglehugerectangularspritsail.Thiswindage of wood.Theyarespectacularlyover-canvassed Yoles Rondesarecanoe-shapedopenboatsmade The 31steditionoftheTourdeMartiniquedesYoles 31st AroundMartiniqueYoleRace As atBequiaEasterRegatta,theyachtsgettoplay, Jerry Stewartreports:Foraspectacleoftraditional 50th AnniversaryCarriacouRegatta ON THEHORIZON… Visit www.havanachallenge.com/events The HavanaChallengeisanamateursportingcom- Visit www.tourdesyoles.comformoreinformation. These racesarehighlycompetitiveanddrawlarge We’re the Web! on caribbeancompass. Caribbean Compass FREE On-line www. com JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41

 !              range of home  Compass made specialities – we also create a Not just a pizzeria CARRIACOU TYRELL BAY F D P  E T R A & BAR C  of Tyrrel Bay. D or VHF CH 16 N REMEMBER Bar open all Day I

W Tuesday to Saturday Tuesday 6.00 - 9.00 for Dinner 6.00 - 9.00 for S Open 6 days a week Open 6 days a week G A Use our new Dinghy Dock Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou Tyrrel Bay, L Situated on the South Side Situated pizza in the Caribbean Open 11.30 - 2.00 for Lunch Open 11.30 - 2.00 for Reservations recommended F Sunday Brunch 11.30 - 14.30 PIZZERIA ☛ & serving the best thin crust & serving the best Open for lunch, dinner, drinks Open for lunch, dinner, Phone (473) 443 6500 or call CH 16 to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in For reservations call: (473) 443 8322 10:00am – 10:00pm, closed Tuesdays 10:00am – 10:00pm, Free High Speed WI-FI & Dinghy Dock Free High Speed WI-FI continued on next page NEILPRYDE Sails NEILPRYDE Sails Grenada www.carriacou.net [email protected] Nick Williams, Manager Nick Williams, Land and houses for sale www.neilprydesails.com Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 Tel: Carriacou Real Estate Ltd Engineering, fabrication and Engineering, fabrication For full details see our website: or contact Carolyn Alexander at or contact Carolyn We also handle Villa Rentals & also handle Villa We e-mail: [email protected] welding. Fabrication and repair of welding. Fabrication TechNick Ltd. TechNick stainless steel and aluminium items. stainless steel and aluminium S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada Blue, Grenada S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Check out our website or contact us directly for a competitive quote on rugged and well-built sails that are well suited to the harsh environment of the charter trade and blue water cruising. Tel: (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) 443 8290 (473) Tel: Jeff Fisher – Grenada (473) 537-6355 Property Management on Carriacou Property CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE Hubert J. Winston 18 Victoria St. Roseau & Bay St. Portsmouth Dominica +767-275-2851 Mobile / 445-4322 +767-448-7701 Fax [email protected] www.dominicayachtservices.com [email protected] Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Trans-Atlantic Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean Duty free fuel (+10.000lt) EU-VAT (16%) importation (16%) EU-VAT Providing all vital servicesProviding to MID ATLANTIC MID ATLANTIC - Relax! Leave the work to us - www.midatlanticyachtservices.com YACHT SERVICES YACHT TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 +351 TEL +351 292 391616 FAX Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Chandlery, Pilots, RiggingIncl. PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES / FAIAL, HORTA PT-9900-144 DOMINICA YACHT SERVICES JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 [email protected] # O N MARKET PLACEAD S Caribbean CompassMarketPlace U YOUR M THIS COULDBE A B L E S W I N D  C A R T E  P D F   

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31 –2Aug AfterOurs,Carriacou.www.carriacouchildrenseducationfund.org 31 Carriacou. 31 30 [email protected] Carriacou. 29 26 –2Aug 26 -4Aug www.carriacouchildrenseducationfund.org (Eidal-Fitr,endofRamadan) 25 –4Aug 24 20 18 17 –1Aug http://yoles-rondes.net 14 12 –18 inmanycommunities 30 29 26-7 July 24 21 www.barbadosyachtclub.com 21 20 19 –21 19 –21 19 –21 19 www.styc.net 15 –17 15 [email protected] 12 –14 www.stluciayachtclub.com 12 -14 7 5 2 JUNE PetiteCalivignyYachtClub(PCYC), 12 10 7 Nelson’sDockyard,Antigua.Antigua YachtClub(AYC), 6 -7 6 [email protected] 5 –12 5 4 –13 2 1 JULY PublicholidayintheBahamas(LabourDay) WorldEnvironmentDay.www.unep.org/wed FULL MOON PublicholidayintheCaymanIslands(Constitution Day) PublicholidayinVenezuela(IndependenceDay) PublicholidayinCuraçao(FlagDay) FULL MOON If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismeventlistedFREEinourmonthly nulCricuCide’ dcto udAcin Carriacou RegattaOpeningRaceParty,LazyTurtlePizzeria&Bar, FULL AnnualCarriacou Children’sEducationFundAuction. MOON AnnualPre-Regatta Cruisers’PotluckBarbecueandRaffle,TantyLizzy, PublicholidayinVenezuela(SimónBolívar’sBirthday) PublicholidayinSurinameandTrinidad&Tobago PublicholidayinFrenchislands(BastilleDay).YoleracesMartinique, PublicholidayintheBVI(TerritoryDay) Fisherman’sBirthday(St.Peter&St.PaulDay).Localboatraces PublicholidayinVenezuela(BattleofCarabobo) FêtedelaMusique,St.Barts.www.stbarth-tourisme.com Summer PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago(LabourDay) Solstice PublicholidayinBVI,CaymanIslandsandAnguilla(Sovereign’sBirthday) otMmra oi a hleg,Geaa MottMemorialHobieCatChallenge,Grenada. PublicholidayintheBahamas(IndependenceDay) at thetimethisissueof and thenamecontactinformationoforganizingbodyto ArubaHi-WindsKitesurf&Windsurfevent.www.hiwindsaruba.com t ui igyCaposis t ui ah lb(LC, St.LuciaDinghyChampionships.YachtClub(SLYC), ReggaeSumfest,Jamaica.www.reggaesumfest.com HeinekenRegattaCuraç[email protected] InternationalOptimistRegatta,St.Thomas.STYC,www.styc.net so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. calendar, pleasesendthenameanddate(s)ofevent All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledge Public holidayinColombia(DeclarationofIndependenceDay) Massy StoresDinghyRegatta,Barbados. Marina ZarparInternationalRegatta.http://marinazarpar.com Sea StarOptiClinic,St.Thomas.ThomasYachtClub(STYC), Laser Championship,StMaartenYachtClub(SMYC), Public holidayinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines(Carnival) ot mrcnOtms igyCaposis Public holidayinCARICOMcountries(CARICOMDay) North AmericanOptimistDinghyChampionships, St. VincentCarnival BonaireJazzFestival.www.bonairejazz.com AroundMartiniqueYolesRondesrace.http://yoles-rondes.net AntiguaCarnival TobagoHeritageFestival.http://tobagoheritagefestival.com CarriacouRegatta www.caribbeancompass.com We areon-line: [email protected] Compass CALENDAR went topress—butplanschange,

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Barbados YachtClub(BYC), JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45

out- E-mail: [email protected] SAILS AND CANVAS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL DEALS at http://doylecaribbean. com/specials.htm [email protected] ADMIRALTY BAY, BEQUIA 2x & chain moorings. Off Plantation House; one in approx 35’ & one in approx 16’ of water. Offers. Details at http://www.smudge.com/ 3208 CATERPILLARS 2x3208 375hp marine engines/ZF transmissions. Fully rebuilt, zero hrs. Tel: (784) 528-7273 E-mail: [email protected] 2 x OPTIMAX 225 2007 2 x OPTIMAX 225 one runningboard engines, has suspect- great, the other problem,ed big end bearing for sparesplus 3 other engines separately oror rebuild, will sell EC$35,000 foras job lot. Asking everything including brand new vessel view computer. Located in Grenada. For complete list of what’s availa- ble and prices, E-mail: e-mail: shellese@ are US$10. Trailer type, of the month \ US 50¢ PER WORD Pre-paid by the 10th Line drawings/photos and numbers in count. Include name, address CLASSIFIEDS MISC. FOR SALE caribbeancompass.com ANGLO CONCERTINA accompanying classifieds Traditional Shipboard Instrument. Finest Quality. Play Your Favorite Sea Songs, Shanties, Jigs, Reels and Hornpipes. Complete Instruction- Tune Book, and Carrying Case Included. Send $395.00 ppd. to: Green Mtn. Instruments P.O. Box 964 Burlington, Vermont 05402 (802) 865-3337 4200W GENERATOR 110/220V with only 6 hrs. EC$5000.Tel: (784) 528-7273.

Great

streetiolaire@ E-mail - East side Clarkes RENTALS WANTED PROPERTY FOR SALE www.caribbeanhouseforsaleonline.com LA POMPE, BEQUIA Large 2 bedroom house and/ or 1 bed studio apartment.Big verandah and patio, stunning view, cool breeze. Internet, cable TV. 2 weeks minimum, excellent long-term rates. Tel: (784) 495 1177 email: [email protected] CARRIACOU - PRIME LAND Stunning panoramic view over- looking Sandy Island & the Grenadines, northern exposure, cooling breezes, four beaches, excellent snorkeling E-mail: [email protected] GRENADA Court Bay. Excellent views, water access, plots available. 0.9 acres to 9,000 sq.ft. Prices from US$5 to $10 sq/ft depending on size and location. Including 50' of sand waterfront with steep drop off to deep water. hotmail.com BEQUIA – MT. PLEASANT Interesting & unusual, 3 bdrms, 2 baths, pool. Tel: (784) 533-4865 www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com www.caribbeanhouseforsaleonline.com CARRIACOU - HERMITAGE Overlooking Tyrrel Bay. 2 sto- rey house with fenced gar- den on ¼ acre. Upstairs apt has 2 bedrooms, 1 bath, large veranda. Downstairs apt has 3 bedrooms, 1 bath- room, opens onto garden. Available immediately EC$800,000 Laura Tel: (473) 443-6269 or +44 208-621- 5001 E-mail: [email protected] BEQUIA – MT. PLEASANT Tahiti igloo, Rentals available. 3 bdrms, 2 baths & pool. Tel: (784) 533-4865. www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com New main sail, new fresh water system, newly refurbished fridge, newly reupholstered. Ready to go. Lying Port of , Trinidad. US$30,000 OBO. Tel: (868) 620-4750 E-mail: [email protected] DELIVERY SKIPPER, SURVEYOR, ELECTRICAL ENGINEER BEQUIA - MT. PLEASANT views, large lots from US$5/sq.ft. www.bequialandforsale.com BEQUIA-MAC’S PIZZERIA Waterfront location, Bequia’s most popular res- taurant. Same owner-man- ager for 31 yrs. Complete land, buildings, equipment. Island Pace Realty. Tel: (784) 458-3544 Email: emmett@ islandpace.com Cris Robinson, boat fixer and writer looking for passage to UK or Europe this Spring from WI or Venezuela. E-mail: [email protected]

44’ 4 berths, CLASSIFIEDS owned since 2000, BY AUCTION CC 42’ 1977, Perkins 60hp, August 19th 2015, Power Boats, Trinidad. For recovery of rent. Upset price US$19,000. For more info con- tact Tel: (868) 634-4346 E-mail: [email protected] 42’ JEANNEAU 1999, SEA RAY 440 SUNDANCER Recently valued at US$145,000, asking US$85,000. Lying in St.Vincent. Tel: (784) 493-3995 E-mail: ftruchot@ vincysurf.com JEANNEAU SUN ODYSSEY JEANNEAU SUN ODYSSEY 42.1 1995, regularly serviced, lightly used, ready to live aboard. Watermaker, solar/wind generators, serviced life-raft, new dinghy, rigging new 2013, 2012, Yanmar 48hp. 5,200hrs. Lying Antigua, US$80,000 E-mail: dbriefuk@ yahoo.com 2 hds, sleeps 10. Burglar proofed, salt & fresh wash- downs, lots of ad ons. In excel- lent condition, lying Trinidad/ Caribbean. US$90,000 ONO. Tel: (868) 762-8020 E-mail: [email protected] 1996 pleasure yacht in excel- lent condition. 2 x Cummings w/ low hrs, full electronics, bimini, well-equipped, per- fect for cruising & overnight charters. Sleeps 4 in 2 cabins. MORGAN 41 KETCH 1977. Lying Carriacou. Good Condition. US$18,000. Tel: (473) 415-1503 or 535-5050. DOWNEAST 32 1977 Classic. Recent Awlgrip topsides. Great project with minimal carpentry work. Electronics, engine, bimini, sails all in work- ing order. Clean layout, neat and comfortable cruiser. US$10,000 ONO. Tel: (473) 405-3649 E-mail: nicholasste- [email protected]

Hull One E-mail: Former flo- LYING IS ON-LINE! Good condi- YOUR CLASSIFIED Doghouse & bimini. Doghouse & bimini. Immaculately maintained, roller headsail, staysail, main, mizzen, spinnaker. Bow- thruster, 3 anchors, windlass, Perkins 4-108, dinghy/ob, water maker, Raymarine instruments, chart plotter, AIS, radar, autopilot, life raft, EPIRB, VHF, SSB, Pactor, solar panels, fridge, freezer, WiFi and so much more. Reduced US$49,990 E-mail: [email protected] HANS CHRISTIAN 33T 1984 #68. Fully reconditioned & ready for cruising. US$96,000. Contact Doug Atkins for detailed infor- mation.Tel: (340) 642-6273 cell, (340) 692-2673 desk E-mail: [email protected] 1981 OCEANIC 46 CRUISER Lying St. Martin. Ready to go US$149,000. Visit: oceanic46forsale.com or Tel: (721) 550-8721 [email protected] 1986 AMEL MANGO owner, lying Grenada. Ready to go for US$150,000 OBO. http:// www.amel-mango-for-sale.com 42’ JEANNEAU 1997 tilla boat currently based in Bequia & chartering Grenada to St. Lucia. 4 berths, sleeping 8, 2 heads w/shwrs. US$30,000 & open to all reasonable offers. Tel: (784) 492-3098 E-mail [email protected] 42’ SEARAY SUNDANCER 1992 New 250hp. 4 strokes, very economical, quiet & clean running. Sleeps 6 in 3 cabins, perfect for overnight charters. Tel: (784) 528-7273 TAYANA 37' 1977 tion needs a little TLC. Volvo excellent. Bottom job scheduled in Feb. Owner anxious to sell for health reasons. Lying Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela. US$30,000. Mike Lyon Tel: 58 416 484 6121 ALAN PAPE 43’ C/C STEEL KETCH 1991 CATALINA 34 Sloop with tall rig & wing keel. Lying Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. US$50,000. OBO, Deborah. [email protected] HARBOUR SHUTTLE TRINIDAD TT$70,000.00, ONO. Tel: (868) 634-4934 Email: [email protected] E-mail: Immaculate This luxury This

BOATS FOR SALE FORMULA 30 2002 condition throughout. 2x 220hp V6. Lots of installed extras. US$55,000 OBO. [email protected] BLACK PEARL VEDETTE BLACK PEARL VEDETTE L-10.97m, B-2.44m, Yanmar 6LPA-STP2, 315HP, 4 – stroke. New Mercruiser Bravo 2 stern drive and aluminum prop (installed July ’13). Head / toilet, nav lights, new VHF radio, aft swim deck/ladder. Helm seats/aft sundeck cush- ions new Oct 2012. Surveyed 2013. Contact Matt Semark with offers. E-mail: matthew. [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] or [email protected] GALAPAGOS 43` STEEL KETCH Center cockpit. Recently hauled out and refurbished, ready to sail, lying Bequia, US$45,000. Robin, E-mail: [email protected] 41’ ROGER SIMPSON DESIGN Light weight, cruising cata- maran, 3 cabin, 1 head. USD75,000 ONO Tel: (868) 684-7720/634-2259 BERTRAM 28 FLYBRIDGE 1983 2x Yanmar 2007 w/ 2000 hrs. Very good condition, com- pletely renovated at Ottley Hall, St.Vincent. Well equipped w/ AP, fish finder & large ice- boxes. US$55,000. E-mail: gar- [email protected] or [email protected]: (784) 458-3518/ 430-5021. 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN POWERBOAT speedboat is available in Grenada. Gen-Set, A/C, white leather in cabin, , shower(s), VaccuFlush, Mercury 502 marine engines over- hauled by Mercury dealer, Bravo 1 drives. 40 MPH cruise props w/over 60 speed props. Tel: (787) 241-9624 www.aviationcms.com E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (758) 452 8531 2003 GibSea 51 160.000 US 2002 BENETEAU 505 175.000 US 1992 WARWICK Cardinal 46cc 2001 Bavaria 46/3 109.000 US 1987 IRWIN 44 MK II 95.000 US 1983 34ft VINDÖ 45 40.000 US 165.000 US JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATION PG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER uaa aie uaa 21 MP 29 MP Martinique Curaçao MP Grenada MP 18 Dominica MP Martinique Dominica YachtServices Martinique Curaçao Marine 2 34 Ship SVG 39 Clarke's Court SintMaarten Trinidad 44 MP Caribbean MarineElectrical Grenada Caraibe Marine St.Maarten MP 19 11 10 Caraibe Marine 39 Captain Gourmet Grenada Trinidad Camper &Nicholsons Grenada Budget Marine 19 Antigua Boat Paint&Stuff SVG SVG Blue LagoonHotel&Marina Bay IslandYachts C/W Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock SVG Art Fabrik Art &Design Anchorage YachtClub Aero TechLab Amazon and iUniverse from available are Books sadDem Geaa MP 40/46 48 MP Grenada SintMaarten MP 9 UK 36 MP 40 MP Island WaterWorld SVG St.Lucia Grenada Island Dreams 31 St.Lucia Iolaire Enterprises SVG International Inflatables Grenada Trinidad MP Hydrovane InternationalMarine 12 Grenadines Sails 46 Grenada Marine C/W Gonsalves Liquors 40 Golden Taste Trinidad SVG Gittens Engines 4 Free CruisingGuides USA Food Fair Fernando's Hideaway MP C/W Electropics Trinidad Tortola Edward WilliamInsurance Echo Marine Grenada Doyle's Guides MP Doyle OffshoreSails Down IslandRealEstate ADVERTISERS INDEX C/W MP 41 through43. fantastic starttothe2015CarriacouAugustRegatta! special RegattaPizzatomarktheoccasion.Makesureyouyourdiariesfora Committee” openingracepartyonFriday,July31st.Therewillbelivemusicanda hosting the“TyrellBaySailingClubonbehalfofCarriacouRegattaFestival Wildlife ConservationTrust. Dennery Island,installedbyCMSwithoutcharge,toassistinitiativestheDurrell tion ofthejettyatPigeonIslandforNationalTrustandaccessfacilitieson walkways andretainingwalls.PreviousCMScommunityprojectsincludetherenova- Marina, includingsheetpilingtheland/seainterfaceandinstallationofboatlifts, Lucia DiveCentreandHarbourClubHotelatthesouthernendofRodneyBay water maintenance.CurrentprojectsincludethefoundationpilingofnewSt. area whoengageintourismactivities. Development. Thejettieswillservefishers,seamossfarmersandindividualsfromthe Ministry ofAgriculture,FoodProduction,FisheriesCooperativesandRural new jettiesinSt.Lucia,oneatSavannesBayandPraslinBay,bytheLucia — For moreinformationontheLazyTurtleseeadinMarketPlacesection,pages Shayne Wallisreports:TheLazyTurtlePizzeria&Bar,TyrellBay,Carriacouwillbe Lazy TurtletoHostCarriacouRegattaOpeningParty Visit www.cms-sl.comformoreinformation. CMS isactiveinbothonshoreandoffshorepiling,marineconstructionunder- Complete MarineServicesLtd(CMS)hasbeenawardedacontracttobuildtwo New JettiesforSavannesBayandPraslinBay,St.Lucia Continued frompage9 COMPASS COMIC pc sadMrn Geaa 26 MP 28 8 12 C/W 13/15/17 Grenada Trinidad 23 Aruba MP Tortola SpotlessStainless C/W MP 43 Spice IslandMarine C/W Sea HawkPaints St.Lucia 20 39 Renaissance Marina Grenada Power Boats Perkins Engines C/W Grenada MP Performance Paints 37 Tortola 6 Off ShoreRiskManagement DominicanRep MP Nereid's Rally MP Neil PrydeSails Multihull Company Azores Colombia 22 PuertoRico Mid AtlanticYachtServices Trinidad McIntyre Bros Marina Zar-Par St.Lucia Marina SantaMarta Marina Pescaderia Marc OneMarine LIAT C/W Johnson Hardware 14 …Business Briefs C/W =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages41to43

aauMrn Vnzea 37 47 Venezuela 36 Trinidad YSATT Trinidad MP 44 Grenada20/MP Yacht SteeringCommittee 5 Xanadu Marine Tonga Venezuela WIND Martinique MP MP Venezuelan MarineSupply PuertoRico Vava'u MarineServices MP 21 C/W Turbulence Sails Trade Windshelpwanted Grenada The LazyTurtleBar&Rest. SVG Technick Grenada St.Kitts MP Sunbay Marina Sugar ReefBequiaLtd St. KittsMarineWorks MP MICK STEVENS MICK

JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago