C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS JUNE 2015 NO. 237 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
Sailing Tradition Thrives in Antigua & St. Barth
See story on page 16 TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore www.caribbeancompass.com JUNE 2015 • NUMBER 237 HOLIAN VAUGHAN-RICHARDS
DEPARTMENTS Info & Updates ...... 4 The Caribbean Sky ...... 36 Business Briefs ...... 8 Salty’s Beat ...... 38 Eco-News ...... 10 Look Out For… ...... 38 Regatta News...... 12 Readers’ Forum ...... 39 Destinations ...... 18 Caribbean Market Place .....41 Bonaire Rebuild Y2A ...... 28 Calendar of Events ...... 44 Historic vessel restoration ...... 7 Meridian Passage ...... 31 Classified Ads ...... 45
FRANKS Seawise ...... 32 Cartoon ...... 46 Book & Movie Reviews...... 35 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46
Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ,
Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected], www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Accounting...... Shellese Craigg [email protected] [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman See Weed? Pointe Baptiste [email protected] Dominica’s chocolate factory ...22 Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. Sargassum has arrived ...... 11 See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Hot Coffee Trip Selling Your Boat ©2015 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short A Colombian farm tour ...... 21 Where does one begin? ...... 33 excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. ISSN 1605 - 1998 Cover Photo: From Folkboats to Tall Ships, Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta has it all — in motion! It’s no surprise that ace race photographer Tim Wright is among the many snapping the action
Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. ‘Compass is the single best information network in the islands. I read each issue cover to cover, and feel as if I have my finger on the pulse of the region. There’s always curiosity about what’s happening just over the horizon. And there’s always stimulation in the eloquence of voices from the fleet.’ — Ann Westergard, S/Y Galivant
Santa Marta
Cartagena
Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 &Updates Info speak EnglishorSpanishtoadegree,whichisrareinotherareas.Harborsnear ly olderchildrenwillbetoolivelyandyouneedtoaskthemleave.Manycan work, tosellyoufruit,assistasguides,etcetera.Mostareverypolite;occasional- though therewillbemany,manydugoutsfullofkidsandsomeadultsofferingto have internet,entertainment,etcetera.Youwillnotfindaggressiveboat-boys, local peopleareaccustomedtoyachts;smallbusinessesservefoodandsometimes Vache andonIle-à-Gonâve.TheseharborsareassafeanyintheCaribbean: Seas CruisingAssociation(seewww.noonsite.com)suchasatPortMorganonIle-à- There arealsoseverallocalharborguidesappointedbytheinternationalSeven notably fromFrankVirgintino(http://freecruisingguides.com/blog/author/frank). found atwww.noonsite.com/Countries/Haiti/haiti-violent-attack-on-cruising-couple safekeeping, andthecoupleflewout.[ boat waslatertakenbyvolunteerstoIle-à-Vacheinthesouthofcountryfor with theirfamilyandambassador,getthemaphone,clothes,etcetera.Their American aidworker(afriendofmine)wasabletofindthem,putthemintouch ashore byalocalofficialsomehourslaterandhospitalizedinGonaiveswherean pletely unprovokedandmighteasilyhavebeenfatal.Thecoupleweretaken causing seriousinjuries,andstolemuchequipmentgoods.Theattackwascom- group ofsixarmedmen,whostrippedandbeatthe(older)captainhiswife, Anse Rouge,northwestofthecityGonaives.Theywereboardedatdawnbya away, acrosstheGolfedelaGonâveonaveryremotepartofcoastlinenear to authorities,butreconfirmedastrueinAprilbyaninvestigatorwhovisitedthetown. equipment and“allowedtoproceed”Pestel,thenexttown.Thiswasnotreported la), whobehavedverythreateningly.TheboatwasrobbedofUS$1,000andsome mayor ofthesmalltownCorail(onnortherncoastHaiti’ssouthernpeninsu- the nightbyagroupof13armed“officials”reportedlyincludingpoliceand ing bothinasmallcapacity,I’dliketotryreassurepotentialvisitors. charity projectthere,andasalong-termcruiserwhowasabletoassistininvestigat- Haitian coastinthelastfivemonths.AsafrequentvisitortoHaitirunningsmall Considerable informationonHaitiasanewcruisinggroundisavailableonline, In April,aDutchcouplewereseekingshelterfromweathermorethan90miles The facts:InJanuaryaFrenchfamilyontheiryachtwereboardedinthemiddleof Mandy Thodyreports:Newsisfilteringouttocruisersoftwoseriousincidentsonthe Haiti Incidents:SeriousbutScattered www.doylecaribbean.com [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands A reportbythevictimstoNoonsitecanbe 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor Chaguramas AMD Sails Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuilding .]
THODY deserted stretchofcoastlineisveryrisky. where yachtsarenotcommon.Restingafteranarduouspassagealongsidea Morgan onIle-à-Vache,areless“busy”butstillsafeandwelcoming. these designatedcruisingports,suchasthenextfiveorsixbayseithersideofPort long asyouaresensible. is averylargeislandwithhugepopulation),hencetherisksareinyourfavorso and mainlandSouthAmerica—infact,muchmorecommonlythanHaiti(which worse thanthosedescribedaboveonthecoastsofmanyotherCaribbeanislands orphanage onIle-à-Vacheisapopularchoice. maritanofhaiti.com, oronFacebook. cargo frompreviousportsontheirtravelsbycontactingusonlineatwww.goodsa- short orlongvisits.Volunteerscanarrangetodeliversails,marinegearandother of fieldsincludinginformalEnglishlessons,music,mechanicalrepairs,andsoon,for ture program,andmore—wewelcomevolunteerswithexpertiseinanumber Samaritan ofHaiti,anon-sectarianorganizationwithschools,microcredit,agricul- boat guard,etcetera).Iamadministratorofanon-profitonIle-à-Vache—Good contacts whocanhelparrangeforyourneeds(laundry,marketvisits,clearances, with acharitableprojectasvolunteers—thusensuringgoodwill,andhavinglocal boats spendingthewholeyearorbeingstoredforseason. numbers. InPortMorgan,forinstance,someyearstherehavebeenfourorfive tion posingariskatanytime,howeverrare.Thereisalsoanelementofsafetyin sentatives whokeeptabsonyachtingactivityandcanadviseofanypoliticalsitua- Local craftandvisitingyachtsatPortMorgan,Haiti NOTE: Itis If youdochoosetovisitHaiti,remembertherehavebeenincidentssimilarand The sameistrueformanychurch-ledorothertypesofcharities.SisterFlora’s One waytovisitanareabyboatisarrangedeliverdonatedgoodsandwork Yachts shouldvisitportsofentryandmaketheirpresenceknowntocruiserrepre- Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Kingston PJG Jamaica Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix not advisabletovisitotherareasoftheHaitiancoast,especiallyin
—Continued onnextpage JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 —Continued on next page and in the number of
event could not have happened event could not have happened
volunteers came from Grenada, 15 came from as far away volunteers came from Grenada, 15 came from as far
how to float, to be “water safe”, and to improve their how to float, to be “water safe”,
Caribbean Sail Training Foundation president Jan Roosens noted that St. Martin has Jan Roosens noted that Training Foundation president Caribbean Sail more information. for Visit www.CaribbeanSailTraining.com ‘Learn to Swim Week’ Grenada’s First fitting and Easter holiday, it seemed both drowning deaths over the Following two free swim lessons at 11 different locations throughout Over 500 people were given On learning about the initiative, Grenada Marine boatyard volunteered its rural On learning about the initiative, Grenada Marine boatyard the activity very rewarding Group Leader Laura Fletcher said, “Personally I found provides sponsorship for Caribbean youngsters taking sail training courses. for Caribbean youngsters provides sponsorship island — more training vessels visiting the in the number of sailing seen an increase to date. than 35 port calls April 7th to Swim Week” was held first “National Learn needed that Grenada’s through 11th. the island and learned strokes. Organizer Deb Eastwood noted that the strokes. Organizer Deb Eastwood aid without support from the community, in both financial gave swim lessons. people that turned out to help teach. Over 100 volunteers Although the majority of as the US and England. ongoing corporate social location and group leadership capabilities as part of its (who learned to swim just responsibility policy. Swimming instructor Richardo John were so successful at four years ago) and the other instructors at Grenada Marine of the older students finished teaching the participants, mainly children, that many the week by doing races and diving off the dock! which is a wonderful and Richardo has told me he has learnt and grown himself, developing his aquatic win-win!” In fact, this event has also inspired him to continue on the island. By way of a skills by enrolling in a Red Cross Lifeguard Class being held staff have expressed the wonderful bonus, several members of the Grenada Marine to return this month. desire to learn to swim and Richardo has been booked
LEGENDRE . Danmark (46 to $1 at the moment) (46 to $1 at the gourdes hosted more than 670 visitors during a hosted more than 670 visitors Danmark Continued from previous page Continued from The 252-foot three-masted square-rigger was launched in 1932 and is owned by The 252-foot three-masted Sail Training Vessel Danmark Visits St. Martin Sail Training Vessel Danmark Vessel On May 2nd, the Sail Training Haitians are dignified and patient with foreigners who may have very different Haitians are dignified and patient You will be able to see much that is different, or no longer current in the rest of the or no longer current in to see much that is different, You will be able ordered — for any service or goods to arrive at a price in advance It is often difficult the Danish Maritime Authority. Trainees aboard the ship earn an Ordinary Seaman’s the Danish Maritime Authority. Trainees aboard the ship Sail Training Foundation license after 14 weeks aboard. The non-profit Caribbean are rarely used verbally; everyone talks in “Haitian dollars”, an imaginary currency “Haitian dollars”, an imaginary verbally; everyone talks in are rarely used that “dollars” US dollar now. If you assume or roughly nine to the worth five gourdes, by nine times. With that in mind, foodstuffs andmeans US$ you may be overpaying are not much cheaper than in other countries,manufactured goods and gasoline food. Labor and services performed are very cheapespecially if you eat “American” people will appreciate it if you can use their services(US$5 to $15 a day), and local laundry, boat-scrubbing, etcetera. Street food is cheapbe it for shopping, guiding, oil. Restaurant meals are often as expensive as onand quite safe if just out of hot person) and while well cooked, it’s not haute cuisine. other islands (US$20 to$ 30 per people are seeking a real connection and will try to views, but be warned, many with you in any way possible! Do go to Haiti, and establish a lasting relationship we are showing the value of tourism to the whole you’ll enjoy it. Plus, as cruisers country if crime can be controlled. tall ship, which was making her first call ever to St.public Open Day aboard the a private reception aboard was hosted by theMartin. Later in the evening, Captain Kurt Andersen and crew of the Caribbean Sail Training Foundation, West Indies — a life lived on foot and by mule, where fields are plowed by oxen, mule, where fields are plowed a life lived on foot and by West Indies — under sail, and hand-adzed boats from dug-out canoes or beautiful fishing is done buckets! is imported except plastic almost nothing US$10. for anything over about firmly on this and write it down it’s best to insist confusing as the official Haitian Currency is very — JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 the quarter-of-a-millionmark. where thetotalnowstandsatmorethanEC$225,800andthisyearwe together wouldbecome.Wehaveseentheamountraisedeachyeargrowto beyond expectations:overEC$3,000raised.Littledidwerealizewhatthislittleget- success, way was aresounding annual event. were presentforthis over 20nationalities yachts representing as many70 week, andlastyear choice forRegatta the anchorageof money! TyrrelBayis of course,toraise yachtspeople and, tain thevisiting designed toenter- the kids.ThiseffortculminatesduringRegattaweekwithanumberofevents and drawspeoplefromaroundtheworld.EachyearCCEFconductsfundraisingfor attend theCarriacouRegattaFestivalhasgrowntobeamajoreventonisland involved overtheyears! raised forthechildrentooverEC$250,000:anoutstandingjobbyallwhohavebeen Carriacou Children’sEducationFund,andthisyear’seventshouldpushthetotal used byTradeWindsCruiseClubattheBequiacharteryachtbase.Tradewindsalso they paintedlandscapes,seascapesandunderwaterscenesonthedockcarts — Year Onein2000 What startedasasmallget-togetherbygroupofyachtsmenwhohadcometo Melodye andJohnPompareport:Thisyearmarksthe15thannualfundraiserby Happy Birthday,CCEF:15,GoingOnaQuarterofMillion! In March,studentsatTheLearningCenterinBequiacompletedafunartproject— Dock CartsDécor! Continued frompreviouspage [email protected] [email protected] www.igy- marinasantamarta.com/en - COLOMBIA Phone: + 57 5 4363601 72 VHF Channel 16, 34.45” 14´ Coordinates 11° 24 The CCEFteamcleaningtheauctionroomatAfterOurs NORTH 74° 13´04.91” WEST WEST NORTH 74°13´04.91” Club. on TradeWindsCruise com formoreinformation Learning Center. more informationonThe centertlcbequia.com for maths skills. guage arts,readingand Bequia. Theyfocusonlan- Primary Schoolchildrenof school programmeforthe Learning Center,anafter donated EC$300toThe Visit www.trade-winds. Visit www.thelearning- will crack and malls. the entire region. – Mini Mark of Marta,home Center City Santa the Historic to distance walking and beach local the to –Adjacent staff. lingual bi of High percentage dryers.–24 and /7365 washer Securi quality in -New professional showers. running Cold -TeakDocks.Hotand Facility. New Marina
RACHEL JASPERSEN / TEAM PHAEDO there whenCCEFbreaksthequarterofamillionmark,andremember:“It’sforkids!” with installingcomputerlabsinthreeprimaryschools. ates, schoollunchesatHarveyValePrimarySchoolfor137childrenandassistance have paidforfullscholarshipsatTAMarryshowCommunityCollege34gradu- school uniformsandsuppliesforover400childrenontheisland.Additionalfunds Affairs. WorkingcloselywiththeMinistry,CCEFhasprovidedmoneytopurchase the localpopulation,aswellMinistryofCarriacouandPetiteMartinique charge toTyrrelBay. Marine and you gettoGrenada.OuryachtingfriendsdowntheredropoffdonationsatBudget stopping inCarriacouonyourwaysouth,listentotheCruisersNetVHF66when boat hauledataveryreasonablepriceandhelpthechildrensametime. formerly TyrrelBayYachtHaulout,acrowdpleaserandanexcellentwaytogetyour few. ConstantthroughtheyearshasbeenahauloutdonatedbyCarriacouMarine, and equipment,todinneratoneofthefinerestaurantsonisland,namea tioned, fromadozencookiesthatgarneredEC$50,tohaircuts,divepackages Arawak DiversinHarveyVale.Overtheyearsavarietyofitemshavebeenauc- Goods andservicesdonatedareputupforbidinarollicking,funtimeatAfterOurs/ CCEF events.Themainevent,ifyouwill,istheauctionheldduringRegattaweek. and localresidentsofCarriacou,alongwith,course,allthosewhoparticipatein pages 41through43.Goodtohaveyouwithus! 29; andtheLazyTurtleBar&RestaurantofCarriacou,inMarketPlacesection, of UnionIsland,onpage19;ClarkesCourtBoatyard&MarinaGrenada, In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! Visit www.carriacouchildrenseducationfund.orgformoreinformation. Please joinusinCarriacouattheendofJulyandbepartthiswonderfuleffort.Be The contributionmadebytheyachtingcommunitytoCarriacouisrecognized If youwouldliketocontributesomethingfortheauctionbutarenotplanningon All ofthissuccessisduetothehardworkanumberpeople,bothyachtsmen M/V Amelia Compass et on site. – Nearby modern et onsite.–Nearby , theGrenada-to-Carriacouferry,deliversthemfreeof wewelcomenewadvertiserstheAnchorageYachtClub of the finest bistro, cafes and nightlife in in cafesandnightlife finest bistro, of the ty and Dock Attendants. - Free Wi-fi. -Free – Attendants. Dock and ty grocery, depar grocery, Regatta News! exploits inthismonth’s Phaedo’s Team Phaedo. Rachel Jaspersen/ credited to should havebeen Ocean Imagesand The pictureisby Christophe Jounay. enly creditedto Phaedo stunning photoof Corrections Read about In ourAprilissue,this Department of tment stores tment stores wasmistak- recent JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7
.” since earlier Stormvogel a half century Stormvogel Stormvogel , a replica of a wooden Dutch East exact shape. Elsdrodt worked for three Duyfken Stormvogel’s It is expected that it will take two years to rebuild the It is expected that it will take “We have also launched the Junior Shipwright pro- Contact [email protected] to make a Visit www.facebook.com/StormvogelBonaire to follow ago, have joined the effort. Bonaire resident Lars ago, have joined the effort. Bonaire resident Lars Elsdrodt is creating line drawings with CAD/CAM computer programming providing a permanent record of docks last March, the ship was towed to Navegante the ship was towed docks last March, offered free owner Lele Davidsson has Boatyard where step is toproject’s first year. “Our next space for the explains the condition of the boat,” carefully examine board member and head ofJohnny Craane, foundation will be inspected. Thenrestoration. “Every rib and plank future for we will decide what is the best ship to its former sailing glory. To that end, the foun- dation is actively seeking funds to finance this second phase of Project Stormvogel. But individuals are also spearheading the restoration. A volunteer restoration crew has been organized and the response from the local community is tremendous. People from all walks of life, even old sailors from years on Indies sailing ship in Australia. His line drawings will be the first visual record for Bonairean shipwrights built boats exclusively by memory and intuition rather than plans. Also joining the effort is Bruce Halabisky, a 20-year professional wooden boat shipwright and marine carpenter who will serve as consultant. These days Halabisky is offer- ing advice from afar as the foundation shares photos and videos during the restoration. He will also do on- site visits at critical stages of the process to supervise the work and ensure quality control. gram,” adds Craane. “It is a ten-hour course where students will get hands-on experience working alongside Bonairean shipwrights while completing nine hours of restoration work. Plus, they will attend a one-hour talk on Bonaire’s nautical heritage presented by our histori- an and board president, Boi Antoin. Students from Scholen Gemeenschap Bonaire (Bonaire Community Schools), STINAPA’s Junior Rangers and the CIEE Research Station will work on the project. The Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds for the Caribbean region helped fund this initiative. We are very excited to connect the island’s young people with their maritime past.” donation to Project Stormvogel. the progress. slowly during its to the city was ready to has left Curaçao Stormvogel Stormvogel Stormvogel Stormvogel HOMECOMING Stormvogel . There was still the matter of hold delivered to her historical core. The first task to its original condition when it was Stormvogel first captain, Martinus Ramon Felida, was fast and seaworthy, Doña Luisa Stormvogel’s Stormvogel Stormvogel Back in 2012 François van der Hoeven, now a foun- Van der Hoeven wasted no time. He found a free spot These interviews with Bonaire’s old sailors and boat- These interviews with Bonaire’s After the sinking in a Curaçao backwater. Van der Hoeven understood the tremendous historical value of the boat and knew he had to do something fast. For three years, every week François pumped out water from the old cutter while he tried to generate interest on Bonaire to save her. Last November, several Bonaire residents formed the foundation, contacted legal rep- resentatives from Martin Felida’s family, and secured ownership of builders are part of Fundashon Patrimonio Marítimo Boneiru’s (Bonaire Maritime Heritage Foundation) mis- sion to save and preserve the rich nautical history of the ABC Islands. The foundation’s flagship project is restor- ing launched in 1951, but that almost did not happen. dation board member, discovered getting her back home. at the boatyard, Curaçao Marine, and had the boat hauled out. Then he gathered a group of ten enthusi- astic volunteers. Over four months, they stripped down was to remove 1,500 kilos of cement blocks that had been stored in the hold. Once Biofuel Curaçao pumped out 300 litres of gas oil and 12 litres of engine oil, the crew pulled out the two large fuel tanks. They finished by taking out foam insulation, rotten planks and a defunct steering mechanism. Then Van der Hoeven and three others cut free the ship’s massive, rusting diesel engine, which was then taken out of the hold by a crane. All told, the group removed three and a half tons of unwanted material. sailing days, recalls hauling live goats. “We would load hauling live goats. “We sailing days, recalls Bonaire and and 90 goats from Klein between 80 many as we Curaçao. We would put as deliver them to the rest above deck. With a could below deck and tied crew of five, it was pretty crowded.” return home, but not without some regret. As volun- teer Nicky Pietersz wrote, “With mixed feelings I’m writing this e-mail. Our this early evening at 1725 and will be arriving at her birth home in Bonaire around 2130. Hope you have as much fun restoring her as we had during the prep works for her transport.” Soliano (79), a deckhand aboard Soliano (79), a Clockwise from above: Stormvogel and her lines say so Johnny Craane, Maritime Heritage Foundation board member and head of restoration Ismael Soliano, now 86, was Stormvogel’s captain for four years Julia Martinus, student volunteer. ‘The response from the local community is tremendous’ The Maritime Heritage Foundation’s François van der Hoeven in Stormvogel’s hauled cargo in the 1950s was Stormvogel
was modernized in the 1960s with a die- became visible as she rounded the far tip as she rounded the far became visible . “We would choose special shaped branch-
. “We searched for hardwood in the hills,” recalls STORMVOGEL’S Stormvogel Ismael Soliano (86) tells about its sailing prowess on This historic boat, built on Bonaire in 1951, is the On the morning of March 25th, 2015 local freighter of March 25th, 2015 local On the morning by Patrick Holian sel engine and registered as a Curaçao ship. Felida later did an extensive overhaul of the boat in the early 1990s at Schottegat Bay. For decades, the cutter hauled goods, packages and freight. There were rumors of smuggling liquor and cigarettes from Klein Curaçao to Venezuela when economic times were tough. Lucio his first return journey into the wind from Aruba to Bonaire. Soliano served as captain on and off, accu- mulating four years behind her helm. “When we left Aruba, we followed the Venezuelan coast for over a day. At the right time, we made one tack north. That route took us directly to Kralendijk. We completed the voyage in just two days. Fast boat!” Bonaire. Martin’s father, Jan Efteban Felida, financed the building of the boat and local shipwright Etche Craane crafted it under the shade of a tamarind tree. Once complete, her hull was painted black to resemble the dark-hued plumage of the bird for which she is named, the storm petrel. Much of the wood used was gathered locally in Bonaire’s wild outback called the mondi Jan Felida (81), a relative of Martin who worked on Stormvogel es that would fit the curved form of the hull. Some wood came from government land, but we harvested most of it from a private family plot.” last of the sail-powered cargo ships from the time last of the sail-powered cargo ships from the time before air travel arrived on the island. In 1951, Captain Martinus Ramon Felida had secured a lucrative con- tract to haul propane tanks between Curaçao and finally coming home. usual freight containers, placed on her port side was usual freight containers, placed on her port side was an impressive 45-foot wooden hull. Doña Luisa another freight run for the of Klein Bonaire. It was just sunny day something workhorse ship, but on this deck was jammed with the looked different. While her JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 tion, thenclickonthered“C”button(“Download PDFcorrection”).Voila! www.imray.com/charts/Imray+Charts/Caribbean+Sea, clickonthechartinques- evaluation andassistancewithserviceafter thesale—sailorshelpingsailors! Grenada. Theywillofferexpertadviceand analysisontrendsintheindustry,yacht your currentboat,stopbyorcontactChris andChrystalattheTMCofficein destination intheCaribbean.Buyerswantaboatthatisalreadyparadise! Grenadines aresuchanamazingcruisingground,itisquicklybecomingTHEsailing attend thesurveyandfinalizedetailsofsale.BecauseGrenada Company’s brokersareontheislandtogetknowyourboat,show ers arelookingtosellorupgradetheirboatwhiletheythere.TheMultihull temporary hometohundredsofyachtsduringthatseason.Manythoseboatown- as wellguidethemthroughtheselectionandpurchaseofayacht. team wasaperfectmatch.ChrisandChrystallovetoteachinspirenewsailors their studentsarealsointhemarkettobuyaboat.JoiningTheMultihullCompany school (LTDSailing–“LivingtheDream!”).ChrisandChrystaldiscoveredthatmany of The MultihullCompany,theyownanAmericanSailingAssociationaccreditedsailing resource inGrenadaforcatamaransalesandservice.Inadditiontotheirworkwith sell yourboatorfindtheofdreams.Professionalandfriendly,theyare and Chrystalaretruesailorswholivefull-timeontheisland.Theyheretohelpyou bungalow sharedinpartnershipwithGrenadaMarine. Its GrenadaofficeislocatedinPortLouisMarina,onJDockaCaribbean-style to arrival: its developmentalstage,witheightoutoftheprojected80slipspresentlyavailable. engineers, top-qualitytechniciansandfirst-classoperators.Ourmarinaiscurrentlyin wood, steelandaluminum,24-hoursecurityforboatsinstorage. 120 feetlong.Weofferprofessionalanddo-it-yourselffacilitiesincludingfiberglass, service goalscanbeachieved. our spacious25-acreBoatyardandMarinawhereallyourboatingmarine- project —theBoatyardthatwilleventuallyofferstorageforupto400boats. is progressingwell.Constructiononthis13-acresitefocusedthefirstphaseof BUSINESS BRIEFS Get thelatestcorrectionsforyourImray-Iolaire andotherchartsnow.Justgoto Get YourCaribbeanChartCorrections For moreinformationonTheMultihullCompany seeadonpage43. Whether youarelookingforyourfirstboat,nextboatorinterestedinselling • Attractsseriousbuyers • Easytogetandfrommajorcities • Modernboatyards,facilities,andservices • Greatboatingcommunityandfriendlyislandpeople • Popularcruisingarea-wherepeoplewanttobe! Why listandkeepyourboatinGrenada? Since itisbelowthehurricanebeltforinsurancepurposes,Grenadabecomes Associate brokersintheGrenadaofficeareChrisRundlettandChrystalYoung. The MultihullCompanyisaninternationalyachtbrokerage“bysailors,forsailors”. Meet TheMultihullCompany’sGrenadaTeam For [email protected]. Visit usatwww.skmw.netandwww.facebook.com/SKMarineWorks Norjah Witter,OperationsManager(869)667-8930 Bruce Berry,YardManager(869)664-1978 St. KittsMarineWorksstandsbyVHFchannel06.Youcanalsocontactusphone: Mychail Danielat(868)760-6382,[email protected] Calvin Mitchumat(869)766-5567,[email protected] • St.KittsMarineWorksalsoofferson-siteCustoms.ContactCustoms24hoursprior • 24-hourSecurity • Complimentaryhigh-speedWiFi • Painting • Fiberglass • Tie-down/ScrapePressurewash • Hauling/LaunchingStorage Come onintoSt.KittsMarineWorksandenjoyourservices.Someoftheseare: St. KittsMarineWorksLtd.comprisesadedicatedteamofprofessionalsincluding We operatea164-tonMarineTravelift,abletoliftboatsup35feetwideand Norjah Witterreports:LocatedatNewGuinea,St.KittsjustbelowBrimstoneHillis St. KittsMarineWorks:QualityServicesfromProfessionaltoDIY Delivery wasrecentlytakenofa40-tonsubmersibleslipwaytrailerandtractor. Lynn Fletcherreports:ThenewlynamedClarkesCourtBoatyard&MarinainGrenada Progress atClarkesCourtBoatyard,Grenada Grenada team Company’s The Multihull Chris (atright), (at left)and Meet Chrystal ad onpage29. August 2015. operation during commissioned, willbein and, onceerectedand mated toarrivemid-July 242-ton hauloutliftisesti- under construction. their limitedserviceswhile reduced ratesowingto offering hauloutsatgreatly tested, ClarkesCourtwillbe Once commissionedand For moreinformationsee Clarkes CourtBoatyard’s —Continued onnextpage JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 THINK THIS SUMMER! GRENADA MARINE GRENADA • Grenada Marine continues its operations with quality • Grenada Marine continues boatyard is located on Grenada’s • This “one stop shop” on the J Dock of • We also have an outpost office located 70-ton • Grenada Marine boasts a custom-designed storage, • So, whether you are looking for summer services in storage, repairs and maintenance in accordance services in storage, repairs for yachts in the with international standards Wider Caribbean Region. and has a southeast coast in the parish of St. David 250-boat capacity. in St. George’s. Camper & Nicholson’s Port Louis Marina of 32 feet, marine travelift that has an inside width as 31.5 feet. making it possible to haul boats as wide a complete a topside re-spray or a simple bottom job, is the ideal repower or a complete refit, Grenada Marine choice for you.
YAMONACO —Continued on page 46 , at the Bequia Bookshop. Captain Mark’s Way: True period (up to 13 Amps/hour)
In order to continually improve customer improve customer In order to continually Marine For more information on Grenada St. Vincent New at Blue Lagoon Marina, satisfaction, Grenada Marine sent Stefan Marine sent Stefan satisfaction, Grenada of the mechanical Fletcher, supervisor on another Fischer Panda department, in mid-April. The Generator course included more practi- enhanced training trouble-shooting of Fischer cal training and Pictured here, Stefan Panda’s generators. knowledge shares his recently acquired with colleagues on his return. see ad on page 9. readers can relate to the unique world that the 2015 Compass is available at the Bequia Bookshop or from SAIL Magazine’s Continued from previous page Continued from Mark told attendees at the launch, “The main point of the book is to offer what might Captain Mark’s Way Captain Mark’s Book Launched in Bequia On April 27th, Mark Denebeim launched his book, The Hydromax 150 is an excel- only recently adapted for Fuel cells have been around for a long time, although The Hydromax 150 is unique because: • It uses no flammable fuel (no methanol!) an acid (malic acid, which • The mixing of two very safe components — a salt and the chemical reaction is found in fruit and used as a food additive) — provides form • The salt and acid are shipped and stored in dried powder • It can produce over 300 Amps in a 24-hour Hydrovane self-steering Hydrovane Intentional Marine Inc. (manufacturer of the For more information visit www.hydrovane.com/other-products/hydromax-150-fuel-cell Place section, pages 41 For more information on Hydrovane see ad in the Market stories and recounts the In this slim paperback, Mark shares his zany charter skipper Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina in St. Vincent now offers more! In addition to The Gold in St. Vincent now offers more! In addition to The Gold Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina Office based at the full-service marina and three With a Customs and Immigration on page 11. For more information see ad On Demand 12-Volt Power! Marine Inc. reports: The Hydromax 150 Fuel Sarah Curry of Hydrovane International Fischer Panda Expertise at Grenada Marine Fischer Panda [email protected] adventures of his early Caribbean sailing days — some of which, such as having to take a delivery crewmember to the hospital while both under the influence of Sage Mountain mushrooms, are perhaps best not to emulate — as well as offering his later experiences as a sort of freewheeling, party-loving bachelor’s-point-of-view cruising guide to his favorite spots in the Lesser Antilles. be a new perspective. Caribbean has to offer and should get a good chuckle out of it. Besides, what else do you have to do while you’re sitting out there in the harbor but read my book?” Pittman Award for Innovation. lent complement to other methods of green power gen- eration on a cruising boat. It is a quiet and reliable way to produce 12V power, anytime and anywhere. directly convert the chemi- marine use. They are small electrochemical devices that — safely, quietly, and cal energy of a continuous reaction into electrical energy without excessive generation of heat. the HYDROMAX 150. windvane) is now the sole North American distributor for through 43. Doubloon Grocery Store & Provisioning Service, the ever-growing list of facilities and Provisioning Service, the ever-growing list of facilities and Doubloon Grocery Store & and a newly completed swimming pool. services includes a fitness room Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina makes a great base for dining options to choose from, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. you and your boat while exploring up on our radar at the Southampton International Boat Cell Battery Charger showed Show in the UK last September. a Our first thoughts were, “What cool maintenance-free con- cept,” and, “We want this addi- tional source of on-demand power on our boat!” We’ve not been alone in our admiration: the Hydromax 150 was recently awarded Caribbean Stories and Reflections of a Sailing Captain — Author Mark Denebeim and Cheryl Johnson of the Bequia Bookshop, long a source of reading material for sailors JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 and authorof island,” remarkednaturewalkguideMarkYokoyama,LesFruitsdeMerco-founder highlight ofthewalk. finch. AlargeGaïactree—perhapsoneoftheoldestonSt.Martinwasanother Antillean crestedhummingbird,black-facedgrassquitandLesserbull- park duringtheguidednaturewalk,includingCaribbeanelaenia,bananaquit, Park. Avarietyofregionallyendemicbirdswereseeninthedrycoastalforest it growsreadilyfromseedandiswelladaptedtoSt.Martin,partofitsnativerange. growing thesetrees.Althoughtheonce-commontreewasover-harvestedforcenturies this crowd-sourcedexperimentwillbeusedtodevelopbestpracticesforsuccessfully record theirobservationswhiletheygrowseedlings.Theinformationcollectedin participants weregivenachoiceofseedoriginandsoiltypeencouragedto of anongoingprojecttorestorethisheritagetreetheisland’slandscape.Workshop hundred sproutedseedsweregivenawayduringtheEndemicAnimalFestivalaspart The Gaïac,alsoknownasLignumVitae,isanendangerednativetree.Morethana at a‘discoverystation’ Young mindsareengagedbycloseobservationofendemicinsects Martin, andit’sreallyajoytosharethatwithpeople.” organize, theEndemicAnimalFestivalshowcasesuniquenaturalheritageofSt. were,” saidLesFruitsdeMerPresidentJennYerkes.“Morethananyothereventwe and otherfamily-friendlyactivitiesrelatedtoendemicwildlife. region andfeaturedaguidednaturewalk,anEndemicAnimalDiscoveryStation, tourists. TheAprileventcelebratedanimalsfoundonlyonSt.Martinorinour year —wasbiggerandbetterthanever,attractingmore250residents Caribbean countries intheCaribbean. Bird Festival,aregionalwildlifeawarenessprogramthatincludeseventsinover20 Island WaterWorldandLePetitHotel.TheeventispartoftheCaribbeanEndemic Les FruitsdeMer,withfundingfromsponsorsHotelL’Esplanade,DeltaPetroleum, that wereroamingfreeonaplantatthestation. Attendees werealsochallengedtospotsomehighlycamouflagedlocalstickinsects woodslave, beardedanole,Soualigawallcrabspiderandleafmimickatydid. insects andspidersincludingfourspeciesfoundonlyonSt.Martin:thespotted but itisallintertwined.” of Gaïacortheintroductionmongoose.Therearedifferentaspectstoheritage, some nearbyislandsthanothers—butalsohumanstories,liketheoverexploitation ries —howuniquespeciesdevelopedonSt.Martinorwhywesharemorefaunawith [email protected] www.barefootyachts “There aresomanyfascinatingstoriesembeddedinthenaturalspaceson This year’sfestivalwasheldattheDiscoveryFarmandGardenSeasideNature A highlightwasthelaunchofClubGaïacwithaTreeLifeWorkshopatevent. “We wereabsolutelythrilledwiththegreatturnoutandhowexcitedattendees The LesFruitsdeMerAssociation’sEndemicAnimalFestival—nowinitssecond St. Martin’sEndemicAnimalFestival For moreinformationvisitwww.lesfruitsdemer.com. The festivalisproducedandstaffedbyvolunteersfromthenon-profitassociation The EndemicAnimalDiscoveryStationfeaturedavarietyofendemiclizards,
Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL The IncompleteGuidetotheWildlifeofSaintMartin
Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters ECO -News . “Biologicalhisto- for theday. les werealsohavingtheirearlymorninglime,seemingtobediscussingplans bellied elaenia,whostruckseveralposestowelcomeus.SeveralpairsofCaribgrack- Upon arrivingatourfirstsiteweweregreetedbythesweetwhistlingofayellow- ing therainyweather,allexcitedandraringtogo,despitecoldlackofsleep. to anend. over 37laughinggullsandindeeditwasamomenttosmileaboutasourtripcame for thebirdsandarichmixofspeciesarehiddenthere. the firsttimewebeheldimmaturewhimbrels.Theinterior,realize,isasafehaven Orisha andmyself:wechartedacoursetodiscovertheinteriorofmangrove.For echoed fromthetreesasiftheywereallcompetingtogiveusanindividualgreeting. grassquits andbananaquitscreatedasymphony.Thecooingofscaly-napedpigeons herons, whimbrels,tropicalmockingbirds(seephoto),greykingbirds,black-faced umbrella ofCaribbeanmartinsinswiftflight,whilebeneaththesoundswillets, among theteamaswenavigatedourwaythroughshrubs.Overheadwasan included arecentgraduateoftheBirdsleuthprogram,gatheredbefore6:00 Caribbean EndemicBirdFestivalonEarthDay,April22nd.Ourteamoffour,which mental protection,hasbeenawardedtoactivistsinmorethan80countries. natural resources,includingfishingwaters,endangeredcoralandmangroves. for InternationalDevelopment,FoProBiMworkswithcommunitygroupstopreserve focusing oncoastalandmarineareas.FundedbytheUnitedNationsUSAgency Foundation (FoProBiM),Haiti’sonlynongovernmentalenvironmentalorganization Bridgeport, Connecticut.HeisthefounderofMarineBiodiversityProtection of investorinterest. backed projectwhichwasscrappedlastyearoverenvironmentalconcernsandlack terms ofmarinelifeandfishnurseries,”Wienersaid. coastal eco-sytems“makesitprobablyHaiti’smostproductivesystemin well asoneofitslongestbarrierreefsandimportantseagrassbeds.Thattrifecta Caracol andFortLiberté.TheareaincludesHaiti’ssecond-largestmangrovearea,as tects thevulnerableecosystemofover-fishedwatersinbaysLimonade, Haitien totheborderwithDominicanRepublic.Thepark,createdin2014,pro- Park, covering30,000squaremiles(75,000sqkm)stretchingfromthecityofCap ral resources. few full-timeenvironmentalistsandalmostnogovernmentprogramstoprotectnatu- efforts inovercomingextremepovertyandpoliticalinstabilityHaiti,acountrywith communities topromotesustainablefishingpracticesandpreservemangroveforests. instrumental inestablishingHaiti’sfirstMarineProtectedAreaswhileworkingwithlocal Haiti’s northcoast,hasearnedaGoldmanEnvironmentalFoundationprize.Wienerwas Wiener, whosuccessfullyfoughttocreateanationalparkprotectlargeswathof As weemerged,themorningskyofCliftonHarborwasbeautifullyadornedwith The callsfromdeepwithinthemangrovemadeitirresistibleformyteammate The sightingsweremagnificent,evokingthrillsandsparkingmuchenthusiasm Marslyn Lewisreports:TheSusGrenBirdersofUnionIslandcelebratedthe Sustainable Grenadines:EarthDayisBirdDay! The prize,createdin1990byRichardandRhodaGoldmantoencourageenviron- A schoolteacherinPort-au-Prince,WienerstudiedbiologyattheUniversityof The FortLibertébayhadbeentargetedforportdevelopmentbyaUSgovernment- Wiener, 50,ishonoredforacampaignheledtocreatetheThreeBaysNational In awardingtheUS$175,000prize,GoldmanFoundationhighlightedWiener’s As reportedbyDavidAdamsatwww.reuters.com:HaitianmarinebiologistJean Haitian MarineBiologistWinsEnvironmentalActivismPrize .com AM , brav- JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11
HTTP://OCEANCURRENTS.RSMAS.MIAMI.EDU
Sargassum fluitans
and currents from its stranding locations sargassum comes from by backtracking Sargassum natans Sailing through sargassum frustrated the Volvo Researchers who are working to track causes and Emma Doyle is with the Gulf and Caribbean Fisheries See related article on page 38. What can cruisers do? What can we do about it? What can we difficult in from the sea is Removal of sargassum Are there any uses for sargassum? redistributed in areas Dried sargassum can be Above: Scientists are working to determine where the Ocean Racers on their leg from Brazil to Newport in Ocean Racers on their leg from Brazil to Newport in May 2015, with reports of jammed rudders and invol- untary broaches. Facing the sargassum influx requires patience and care, both at sea and on land. transport pathways, as well as to develop prediction and alert systems, welcome reports of sargassum from sailors. Please use the reporting site www.usm.edu/ gcrl/sargassum/sargassum.observation.form.php Institute and Jim Franks is with the University of Southern Mississippi’s Gulf Coast Research Laboratory. sargassum involved in the influx are different from sargassum involved in the influx are different from those grown as “sea moss” in the Caribbean and some- times used in food and drinks. New uses for sargas- sum collected from beach strandings are being devel- oped — for example, as a biofuel, as fertilizer and as a component in livestock feed or fish food. nities, this should be done in an environmentally be done in an environmentally nities, this should practices via the least intrusive responsible manner prior to any checks made for wildlife possible, with dunes. care not to damage coastal cleaning and as it and environmentally damaging, practical terms sargas- living ecosystem in the floating threatens the sargassum is of the Atlantic, pelagic sum. In parts accord- Habitat and protected considered Essential mostly focus on ingly. Attempts at local management of sargassum washed dealing with the large quantities agree on the need to up on beaches. Coastal managers sargassum for natural pro- balance the importance of for beaches and cesses and as life-giving nourishment clean beaches. Experience seabirds, with pressure to Gulf of Mexico highlights in addressing the issue in the clear policies about that it’s essential to establish beaches so as to avoid where, when and how to clean as worsened erosion from detrimental impacts such use of beach cleaning equipment. But care is needed in how affected by beach erosion. damaging sand dunes and this is done so as to avoid nesting and bird nesting to avoid impacting sea turtle used as mulch or compost habitat. Sargassum can be wash out in the rain, and — after allowing the salt to The species of pelagic mixed with compost or manure. Left:
J. FRANKS t r y
Sargassum on the east coast of Barbados Sargassum on the east coast Will the influx happen all The sargassum does not Is it a problem to leave it Sargassum occurs naturally plants need nutrients from the sargassum, and sea plants need nutrients from the sargassum, and sea birds, for example, depend on the sea life carried in the sargassum for food. During decomposition there will inevitably be a smell and insects around. The experi- ence in locations that have left the sargassum on the beach is that it will eventually get washed away or buried in the next storm, with rain easing the smell. Leaving sargassum on the beach has proven to be the simplest approach, also avoiding potential negative impacts associated with beach cleaning. Where remov- al from some areas is considered essential by commu- year round? necessarily affect the same location in the Caribbean all year. As it is transported on currents it progressively affects different locations across the region. At any one time of the year there are multiple loca- tions that can be affected. to rot on the beach? on beaches, albeit in smaller quantities. It plays a role in beach nourishment and is an important element of shore- line stability. Sand dune Sargassum flui- and
Sargassum natans
that drifts freely at the surface of the ocean and
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AN EMERGING ISSUE ISSUE AN EMERGING WIDER CARIBBEAN IN THE Pelagic Sargassum: Sargassum: Pelagic What is it? Pelagic sargassum is a complex of two species of During 2011, massive quantities of pelagic sargassum Will the sargassum influx occur every year? We don’t know for sure if it will happen every year, but Since pelagic sargassum drifts on ocean currents, Where is the recent influx of sargassum Jim Franks by Emma Doyle and brown algae ( appeared throughout the Caribbean, impacting aquatic resources, fisheries, fishers, shorelines, waterways, tourism, and community life. A similar event occurred in 2014 and continues in 2015. Fishers and sailors are commenting on the large quantities of sargassum cur- rently being encountered at sea. Here are some answers to frequently asked questions about the influx. currently proposed efforts to develop prediction and alert systems would help answer this important question. Signs from the Eastern Caribbean so far this year are that we’ll be seeing sargassum in the region periodically throughout 2015. Some scientists associate the cause of sargassum influx with higher than normal temperatures and low winds, both of which influence ocean currents, and they draw links to global climate change. scientists are working to determine where the sargas- sum comes from by backtracking from its stranding locations using ocean models and data on movements of satellite trackers that are deployed at sea. It is believed that the recent influxes are related to massive sargassum blooms occurring in particular areas of the Atlantic, not directly associated with the Sargasso Sea, where nutrient input and high water temperatures enable rapid growth. The sargassum consolidates into large mats and is transported by ocean currents towards and through the Caribbean. coming from? tans never attaches to the ocean floor. These free-floating forms are only found in the Atlantic Ocean. Pelagic sargassum is a dynamic ecosystem, providing refuge for migratory species and essential habitat for some 120 species of fish and more than 120 species of inver- tebrates. It’s an important nursery habitat that pro- vides shelter and food for valuable species of fish such as tunas and billfishes and endangered species such as sea turtles. JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 winds makeitnighimpossible,whileothersinsisttheseas Well likesagoodmyth,andwhiletherealityis everyone America... Some say the ferocious currents and contrary America... Somesaytheferociouscurrentsandcontrary scheduled forSeptember, mightbejustthethingtospice And so,ratherthanhunkerdownforsixmonthswaiting Myths aboundonsailingfromtheCaribbeantoSouth for thenextsailingseason,whynotindulgeinvisiting some oftheleastknownanchoragesinAtlantic... are rifewithpiratesbentonpillageandplunder! not nearlyasexciting,theannualNereid’s Rally, up an otherwise dullmaintenanceseason. up anotherwise www.marinaslm.com/rally For more information goto: For moreinformation TEMPTED?
JOUANY CHRISTOPHE injured, andthebrand-newfoilingcatamaran wasrightedwithintwohours. race, but Mente, Lucky course thatwillberepeatedhereeachyear. ( on theWednesdayestablishedmultihull recordforanewlyintroduced43-mile entries initswake,winningallfourraces. “It wasagreatevent,”saidThornburg,who work uptospeed. more impressive,aseveryonehadtolearnnewpositionsandquicklygettheteam- Rene Edwardswhowereunabletocompetethisyear.Thismadethevictoryall included DanielSegalowiczandBernardSillem,whostoodinforDerekLittle regular crewmembersChristopherMarshallandLomigHenry,theteamthisyearalso beating thesecond-placeboatbytwopoints.SkipperedAndreaScarabelliwith racing, theteamendedupwithtwofirstsandsecondsforatotalofsixpoints, Sailing intoughconditions,whichcoveredmorethan140milesoverthefourdays of place in2014,theteamworkedhardtogetbackintowinningspotfor2015. the leaderboardinMelges24s.Havingwontheirclass2013followedbyasecond doing thebestonratings. of fun.” little bitlightforus.Forourboat,thiswas the mostchallengingcourse,soitwasalot Lloyd said,“Todaythewindcameback, whichwasnice,whereasyesterdaya established therecordsforMaxi1and 2classes,respectively.)Ofthelastrace, board, but took secondtoHapFauth’sJV72, gave theteamthreefirst-placefinishesinarow.Bylastday,when every race. other. Thepowerful the firsttworacedays,sincenoonehadyetseenboatssailagainsteach four-race series.Alleyeshadbeenon the wire. not havetosailthelastracebutchosedosoanyway),fourclasseswentdown in sixclasseshadclinchedtheiroverallvictoriesonthenexttolastday(somedid mate racedaysettledto1520knotwindsforthefinalday’sracing.Whileteams design classforMelges24s,thesmallestboatscompeting. in the50-to70-footrangeandsmallerracing/cruisingboats.Therewasaone- (at 100feet,oneofthelargestboatsthere)tomoretraditionalgrandprixracers such asGeorgeDavid’s Thornburg’s MOD70trimaran ed tenoverseascountriesandnineCaribbeanislands. hosted 70boatsinthesixthedition,heldApril14ththrough18th.Thefleetrepresent- REGATTA NEWS Lloyd Thornburg’s At theotherendofsizerange,St.MartinBudgetMarineGILLteamtopped Not somuchfunwasGunboatG4 High windsforthefirsttwodays,followedbyasunnylaydayandgreypenulti- Boats competingintenclassesrangedfromspeedymultihullssuchasLloyd Les VoilesdeSt.Barthhasbeengrowingsteadilysinceitsinceptionin2010and Growth forLesVoilesdeSt.Barth The event’slargest,fastestboatssailedinMaxi1class,where Bella Mente’s Bella Mente Rambler 88 and Comanche Phaedo 3 Comanche wasabletoreplacetheRP63 performancehandedthetiebreakertotheirteam. , prevailedhowever,withcorrected-timeperformancesthat Rambler 88 Rambler 88 spentitsregattaleavingthesevenotherMultihullclass Phaedo 3 hadallsharedthesamepointscoreafterlast showedblazinglyfastspeed,takinglinehonorsin Bella Mente andJimKristyHinze-Clarke’s Timbalero III’s maintaineditsplaceatthetopofscore- Rambler 88 totechnologicallysophisticatednew-builds Comanche , thefocushadreturnedtowhowas dramaticcapsize.Noonewas andthelarger Lucky andtheSwan90 —Continued onnextpage asrunnerup. Rambler 88 Comanche Comanche Rambler 88 wonthe Bella Odin during
JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13
TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM
. and . . Exodus Argyll Zemi Classics secured the
won the . , was declared ) was hit, so it . The 45 Foot and , won Saphaedra Vagabundo II Genesis . Trevor Fretter’s 1938, Frolic Argo Mary Rose Black Watch —Continued on next page Philippe Fabre’s Whitehawk Hamachi secured the class win in Vagabundo II was the winner of Vintage Class C. won the Spirit of Tradition Class. was fourth. Juno, Classic GRP Class.
Summer Cloud. Lorema, , skippered by Sergio Sagramoso, took all firsts Sergio Sagramoso, took all , skippered by Rebecca , topped The Blue Peter, was third just four seconds behind Petrana Lazy Dog holding on to second place by four seconds from Black Watch, skippered by Gerald Rainier, scored a perfect four races to win Vintage , was the race winner by just over a minute, after time correction, from Vagabundo II Argyll Continued from previous page Continued from Mary Rose, Paul Deeth’s 1965 Alden 50, The 29th edition of Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, sponsored by Panerai, will be Visit http://yachtscoring.com/media_print_1_top3.cfm for a full list of podium winners. Visit www.antiguaclassics.com for more information. Ile-à-Vache Holds a Race Day Bruce Leeming reports: There are huge regattas here at Ile-à-Vache, Haiti at least The non-profit group Friends of Ile-à-Vache Haiti sponsored a Fishermen’s Race Day The winner received a set of sails we brought down this year. Second and third In a highly competitive fleet of six Carricou Sloops, Alexis Andrews’ The Puerto Rican Melges 32 The Puerto Rican The 28th annual Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, sponsored by Panerai, was held The 28th annual Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, sponsored of easterly wind. The entire four-race series was blessed with 15 to 20 knots of solo racing enjoyed Racing for the full fleet started on April 17th, but exponents The 16th also featured the Concours d’Elegance. In judging this event, points are The 16th also featured the Concours d’Elegance. In judging The final race was one of the closest for many years in Vintage A Class. Four yachts Visit https://app.regattaguru.com/lesvoiles/100085/results for full results. Visit https://app.regattaguru.com/lesvoiles/100085/results for more information. Visit www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com Hot as Ever! Antigua Classics which were gathered in English Harbour, Antigua, Back in the 1960s, classic yachts, After four races, the 105-foot Bruce King-designed ketch, After four races, the 105-foot Bruce King-designed ketch, The spectacular 140-foot Frers ketch Robert Soros’ 65-foot Nat Benjamin schooner, class with win in Traditional Class by just two points from Class B. Leo Goolden’s 25-foot Folkboat, April 13th through 19th, 2016. once a year. Boats come from all over the area to race for a US$500 prize and other gifts. A race day is enjoyed by everyone. People line the beaches and cheer their families on. Visiting cruisers get involved and also a few want to sail on the Haitian boats. A Race Day shows the abilities Haitians have. in April. The criteria were that the vessel had to be built on Ile-à-Vache and have sails that Friends of Ile-à-Vache Haiti had brought in over the last five years. prize were newer sail material from which sails could be made. Also T-shirts, hats, and other clothing were given. Lastly we invited all the participants over to our ves- sel for some Prestige — a local beer everyone, including our crew, likes. was third in class but did not finish the last race after a collision with Eli Fuller’s Robbie Fabre’s 1944, 42-foot German Frers ketch, 68-foot S&S yawl, Mat Barker’s 1929, 65-foot sloop, — lot of fun today, Sergio said, “Racing was a 1 class. On the last day to win Spinnaker line), around 40 were four classes (on the was incredibly critical. There and the start was a gener- I’ve ever done. The first start probably the hairiest start boats, so it was (the J/125 start, our main competitor al recall; the second April 15th through 21st. The fleet of 46 beautiful classic yachts included 15 entries April 15th through 21st. The fleet of 46 beautiful classic designed and launched racing in the Vintage Class, for yachts in original condition, of traditional rig and before World War II. Other classes were Classics (for boats sloops), Classic GRP appearance launched after WWII), Traditional (for Carriacou and Spirit of Tradition (for fiberglass boats descended from a wooden hull design), modern techniques and (for vessels recently built along “classic” lines but using The Spirit of materials; they may have modern underbodies and appendages). Tradition Class has a trophy structure of its own. Race attracted 20 entries. a stand-alone event on the 16th, as the Single Handed 44, Winner of the Under 45 Foot Class was Don Ward’s Luders ketch, Over Class was won by the 51-foot Aage Nielsen-designed awarded according to the condition of each yacht, including how close she is to awarded according to the condition of each yacht, including Shipyard Alliance Concours her original form. The overall winner for the Lunenberg d’Elegance was the 1925 Nat Herreshoff 64.5-foot schooner, were vying for victory for the last race. Griff Rhys Jones’ 1946, 56-foot Olin Stephens yawl, was pretty dramatic. But we had a great time, and the conditions suited us. It was time, and the conditions suited But we had a great was pretty dramatic. down the best great racing and hands We’ll be back next year; beautiful like usual. ever seen.” organization we’ve the captains and crews challenged each other to a had begun chartering and and back to celebrate the end of the charter season. race down to Guadeloupe Race Week was formalized in 1967. As the years From this informal race, Antigua were slowly outnumbered by modern racing yachts went on, the classic yachts Class had diminished to a few boats; it was aban- and 24 years later the Classic same year seven classic yachts turned out and were doned in 1987. However, that it the bareboats. The class was so unmatched that placed in Cruising Class 3 with so several classic skippers met and in 1988 the Antigua was downright dangerous, with seven boats. A star was born, and it is now inter- Classic Yacht Regatta began nationally famous. Class C. the winner of the Panerai Trophy for the second year in succession, having won the winner of the Panerai Trophy for the second year in Class A. every race and taken line honours in four starts in Classics Classics Class B. Sea-Mester’s magnificent 112-foot schooner, JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14
FABRICE THOMAZEAU BRUCE LEEMING set bythe140-footmodernschooner, Guadeloupe-to-Antigua Racein1hourand 27minutes,beatingthepreviousrecord Sailing forsails.HaitiansailorsvyingprizesofDacron,notsilver — trick” ofrecords. Antigua toparticipateinthreerecordattempts andhavesailedawaywitha“hat surprised bythequalityofthisspotandpromisedtoreturnnextyear. event discoveredMartiniqueandtheright-handersatBasse-Pointe.Theywereall surfing ontheisland.Thisaspectwasalsohighlysuccessful.Surfersregisteredforthis successful event.” and 10),whichishugeforaQSevent.ThisMartiniqueSurfProwasclearlytruly us theirfullpotential.Thejudgeshandedoutalmost100excellentscores(between 8 powerful andthereforeperfectforthiscompetition.Theyenabledthesurferstoshow Gunning, wentawaycompletelywonover:“AtBasse-Pointethewavesarelong and Qualification Series(QS)inthepastfewyears.TheWSLEuropeTourManager,Rob waves atBasse-PointeinoneofthefinesteventsseenWorldSurfLeague 106 competitors.Forfivedays,someoftheworld’stopsurfersbattleditouton the firstMartiniqueSurfProliveduptoandwentbeyondexpectations.Therewere joint thirdplace. Peruvian MiguelTudelaandAustralianCooperChapman,both20yearsold,took 2015. Twenty-one-year-oldSouthAfricanMichaelFebruarytooksecondplace,and won theonlyCaribbeanleginWorldSurfLeagueQualificationSeries(QS) grand finalofferedthrillingcontestsatBasse-Pointe.Intheend,18-year-oldMoniz SurfProQS3000. Sails fortheirsupport. men areabletokeeptheirvesselsinbettercondition.ThanksUKSailsandUllman Having verylittlekeel,theycanbebeachedeasily.Byreducingsailcoststhefisher- erations. Theirboatsaresimplebutwiththeirlongboomstheycansailupwind. current. Dacronsailsaremorereliableandcanberepairedatsea. blown out,afterwhichtheenginelesscrafthavenowaytogethomeagainst ther. Someareneverseenagain.Oneofthebiggestproblemsisweaksailsbeing wages. Asfishstocksbecomedepletedaroundtheisland,fishermengoouteverfar- tarps, bedsheetsandothermaterials.Ausedyachtsailrepresentsaboutayear’s 200 usedsailstodate,manyofwhichareinexcellentcondition. ging ropeandothersailpartssodesperatelyneededhere.UKSailshassuppliedover would nothavehappened.UllmanSailsalsodonatedthread,sewingneedles,rig- from Deltaville,Virginia.Withoutthegenerosityofthesesailcompaniesthisday On FridayApril24th,Thornburg’sMOD70 trimaran, In thedaysbeforeAntiguaRaceWeek2015 LloydThornburgandhisteamcameto Hat Trickfor Visit www.martiniquesurfpro.comformore information. One ofthemaingoalsMartiniqueSurfProwastoshowoffquality Exceptional waves,topclasssurfing,keenspectatorsandprofessionalorganization: On April25th,thefinaldayofMartiniqueSurfPro,twosemi-finalsand Hawaiian surferJoshuaMonizhaswonthefirsteditionofMartinique Martinique HostsWorldSurfQualifier Visit www.friendsofileavachehaiti.comformoreinformation. Haitians areexcellentsailorsandtheirseamanshiphasbeenpasseddownforgen- Fishermen inHaiticannotaffordmodernDacronsailsandresorttousingplastic All theusedsailsweredonatedbyeitherUKSailsinToronto,CanadaorUllman Continued frompreviouspage Phaedo3 Mari-Cha IV , by51minutes. Phaedo3 —Continued onnextpage , finishedthe JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15
RACHEL JASPERSEN / TEAM PHAEDO PAUL WYETH WORLD CRUISING CLUB complet- record by was also the Phaedo3 —Continued on page 40 Sojana’s , crewed by the in 2010. Scarlet Oyster Sojana Scarlet Oyster , scored eight straight wins to win CSA 8, the Best created a new Around Antigua record with a time Around Antigua record with created a new went out for a record attempt on an 80-mile course record attempt on an 80-mile went out for a was the winner in CSA Racing 4 and the Best Caribbean was the winner in CSA Racing 4 and the Best Caribbean topped ASW’s Multihill division Flexible route options proved popular with multiple fleets
Phaedo3 Phaedo3 TAZ Sleeper/U-Go in 2009 with a time of 4 hours, 37 minutes and 43 seconds. time of 4 hours, 37 minutes in 2009 with a Sojana Timbalero 3 , locked up the victory in Antigua Sailing Week’s Multihull Racing division. , winning the Sunsail Trophy and a US$2,500 voucher from Sunsail for a future Continued from previous page Continued from Yippee — three Yippee — three records down! A bumper fleet of 51 boats from 20 nations set sail from Tortola with World Cruising The overall winner of the Bareboat Division and Bareboat 3 was Martin Sager’s KH+P With just one result all week lower than a first-place, Eduardo Perez’s Gunboat G4, Visit www.yachtscoring.com for full results. Visit www.sailingweek.com for more information. Record Fleet for World Cruising Club’s Spring Rallies Visit www.teamphaedo.com for more information. 48th Antigua Sailing Week Round-Up Antigua Sailing Week In what were described as near-perfect tradewind conditions, Jonty Layfield’s CS40, On Sunday April 26th, On Sunday April On Saturday April 25th, On Saturday April Right side up, cruising in company. Club’s spring rallies — ARC Europe and ARC USA. Many yachts are sailing with ARC Europe and ARC USA as their final homeward-bound passages, returning after a win- ter of Caribbean cruising. Cayenne Best British Yacht and the Best Race Charter Yacht at Antigua Sailing Week, and won Best British Yacht and the Best Race Charter Yacht at Challenge. Bernie Evan- the inaugural Royal Southern Yacht Club Inter-Yacht Club Wong’s Antiguan RP37 and Antiguan Boat in Start Boat A. Timbalero 3 Antigua Sailing Week charter. Guernsey Yacht Club was the winner of CSA Racing 5. Guernsey Yacht Club was the winner of CSA Racing 5. ed the course in 5 hours, 18 minutes and 58 seconds, beating ed the course in 5 hours, 18 minutes and 58 seconds, beating almost 2 hours. eight races for a healthy fleet 2015 ran from April 25th through May 1st with a series of of 116 boats in 13 classes. Antiguan and Caribbean Boat in Start Boat B and the prestigious Lord Nelson Trophy. Antiguan and Caribbean Boat in Start Boat B and the Also with eight wins, Ross Appleby’s Oyster 48, around Redonda. The previous record was set by around Redonda. The previous — of 3 hours, 26 minutes and 9 seconds. The previous record was set by the 115-foot previous record was set by minutes and 9 seconds. The of 3 hours, 26 monohull ketch JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16
ANNA LANDRY (2) ALEXIS ANDREWS the AntiguaClassics,heldApril15ththrough 20th.TherearefiveotherCarriacou- asked ustocrewforheronAndrewRobinson’s Carriacousloop, Dockyard. Allthemodernfacilitiesarethere, butwithanOldWorldcharm. the NationalParksAuthorityhasdone inrestoringandmaintainingNelson’s gaff schoonersandthelikearrivedinAntigua. It’swonderfultoseewhatagreatjob Nicholson cametoEnglishHarbourwith his masts, ratlines,asightthatwouldhavebeen familiarinthe1950swhenCommander for about20years. of wind,butsheisuptoit.Forme,arrivinginAntiguawasnostalgic,asIlivedthere it isanewandchallengingexperience,beatingtowindwardinsometimes25knots off EnglishHarbouronelateafternoon.ForAnna,aCanadianartistlivinginBequia, off bywayofBequia,St.PierreinMartiniqueandDeshaiesGuadeloupe,toarrive Yacht Regattaaswell?So,soonfriendshavedeparted,AnnaLandryandI set and whichmay(andinfactdoes)givemuchcredittotheEnoefamilyofboatbuilders. boats, by Frank Pearce use. Shelooksgrandandwellbuilt. limited means,isalsobuildinga45-footwoodenmotorfishingvesselforhisown Farther backalongtheroadVerol,ayoungmantakingonmammothtaskwith larger: a70-footcargovesselbeingbuiltbyFitzroy“Nero”McLarenisinframes. Compton andothers.SheisdestinedtobebasedinSt.Barth.Theothermuch and isbeingbuiltbyKarlTerry,thesonsofAlwynEnoe,assistedVerol a verypretty-lookingsloopofabout40feet,isalreadyplankedup.Shewasdesigned of caulkingmallets?Thewhineplaners? it’s veryquietinthevillage,butaswewalkalong,whatisthathear?Theringing building friendsinthevillageofWindward. makes usappreciativeofthelifewelead,sohadtointroducethemourboat- North AmericaandtheCaribbean The AntiguaClassicisashowcaseforhigh-profiletraditionalsailboatsfromEurope, We anchorinOrdnanceBayandmake contactwithMaiwennBeadle,whohas Approaching theEnglishHarbourentrance, rowsofwoodenmastsappear,top- We realizethatwejusthavetogoSt.Barth,andwhynottakeinAntiguaClassic A ClassicWarm-Up All thetalkisaboutAlexisAndrews’documentaryfilmCaribbeanworking At NormanRoberts’beachfrontland,wefindtwowoodenvesselsbeingbuilt.One, Two buseslater,wearriveinWindwardandwalkalongthecoastalroad.Asever, Having friendsfromtheUKvisitusaboard Antigua andSt.BarthKeepTraditionfromVanishing Vanishing Sail , which is to be premiered in St. Barth at the West Indies Regatta , whichistobepremieredinSt.BarthattheWestIndiesRegatta A sweetfleetofisland-builtvesselslinesGustavia’squayatthe2015WestIndiesRegatta Mollyhawk Samadhi andotherfriendswitholder A BraceofRegattas inTyrellBay,Carriacou Summer Cloud , in smallest competitoris screaming pastonareachwith30crewtherail.Butit’snotallaboutsize; Hamilton is aforcetobereckonedwith. II based photographerLucyTullochandsetsailforSt.Barth.Although News, pages12through15.) Racing Class. the smallestyacht! out fromEuropebyLeoGoolden,heryoungowner.Shedeservesthebiggestcupfor to seaandbacktwice,whenmassiveschoonerssuchas beauty, especiallyduringtheracecalled“Cannon”—coursetakesoneout built boatscompetingwitheachother,and46entriesoverall. mentary filmonCaribbeanboatbuilding, schooner, standing woodenboats:theketches large openareaforeventsashore.They are joinedbysomenon-competingbutout- for theevent. Beauty May 3rd. in Gustavia,closetotheactionofWestIndiesRegatta,heldApril30ththrough a workingboat,sheisatleastschoonerandsoweareallowedtomooronthequay mallets and adze, using lines taken from a half model that they have created. mallets andadze,usinglinestakenfrom a halfmodelthattheyhavecreated. Enoe sonsareallthere,watchingthefilm and seeingthemselvesworkingwithcaulking The Carriacousloop at thehelm , anactivelyworking(fishing)Carriacousloop,whowhendonningherracingsails Along withtheCarriacou-builtboatsisNevis-builtschooner After afewdaysrecuperationanchoredinNonsuchBay,wearejoinedbyAntigua- The WestIndiesRegatta We camesecond,twopointsbehind Good winds,hardracingandgreatentertainmentashoresomuchvisual The eventstartsintheeveningwithshowing ofAlexisAndrews’spectaculardocu- The woodenCarriacouboatsareallberthed stern-toatthedock,wherethereisa Another long-distancetravellercompetingisCyril“UncleC”Compton’s We arejoinedbyMaiwenn,whohasflownupandarrangedtosailthesloop , whichherowner,JeffStevens,hassailed350milesfromPetitSt.Vincent , lookinggrandandintimidatingwithher newsails. Avenger (See moredetailsontheAntiguaClassicYachtRegatta2015in . Genesis Lorema , withisland-boatbuildingadvocateAlexisAndrews , aclinker-builtFolkboatat25feetondeckandsailed Genesis Gaucho Vanishing Sail and , intheCarriacouSloops’Traditional Woodwind . [ See reviewonpage35 —Continued onnextpage Elena , andTomGallant’s andthe“J”sgo Samadhi Margeta O Alexander isnot .] The .] The JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17
ANNA LANDRY
, he ) wonder- Genesis Exodus Flying Buzzard Woodwind is there in her glory as is there in her Tradition that is!). and, in the background, Beauty Sweetheart , Ray Linnington, Nevis , Andrew Robinson, Antigua , Cyril Compton, Carriacou , Charles Morgan/Sam Duce, Antigua WINNERS OF , Laurance Gumbs, Anguilla , Phillipe Fabre, Antigua is trailed by has brought up a cargo of fresh fruit and vegetables for sale, up a cargo of fresh fruit and has brought , Grenada , Alexis Andrews, Antigua , Maewenn Beadle / Jeff Stevens, Petite Martinique , Eli Fuller, Antigua Tradition Margeta O II Laser Alexander Hamilton Summer Cloud Exodus Sweetheart Tradition Genesis Beauty Zemi 1) 1) 1) 1) 1) 2) 3) under sail, and of course there are Bruce Smith’s (of under sail, and of course there and she shows herself to be fast ( and she shows Most Beautiful Boat Spirit of the Regatta Most Kids on Board Traditional Class Fishing Boat Class Cargo Boat Class Schooner Class Carriacou Sloop Class WEST INDIES REGATTA 2015 Continued from previous page Continued from During the day, there is much artisanal work on display. Ray Linnington of work on display. Ray there is much artisanal During the day, one’s own drum”, the massive steel tug And talking of “marching to Visit westindiesregatta.com for more information on the West Indies Regatta. Friends then depart in various directions, many faced with the long beat back to On the last day of the West Indies Regatta 2015 there are two races, between which On the last day of the West Indies Regatta 2015 there are On the Sunday evening at the Anglican Church there is a wonderful melancholy On the Sunday evening at the Anglican Church there That evening we enjoy a barbecue and socializing at the home of Jenny and Loulou That evening we enjoy a barbecue and socializing at the On the quay, friends meet and there is talk of deadeyes, handy billies, gantlines, On the quay, friends meet and there is talk of deadeyes, Racing starts the following day. The 50-foot sloop the following day. The 50-foot Racing starts Alexander Hamilton Alexander Hamilton of painting Anna Bolton is in the process her wonderful leatherwork, Annalea has Sweetheart fully eccentric paintings. (A hot tip here: Bruce’s work will be valuable in time to hot tip here: Bruce’s work will be valuable in time fully eccentric paintings. (A the But Bruce is too busy to paint — swooping around come; think Canute Calliste.) the playing a steel pan suspended in front of himself at area on his roller skates and same time. The mighty Also see Facebook. Antigua, PSV or Carriacou. But it’s worth it. all boats raft up in the bay of Colombier for lunch and celebration — plenty music, all boats raft up in the bay of Colombier for lunch and and then prizegiving, where it plenty swimming. A slightly bleary race back to base seems everyone got something. recital by the singer/guitarist Damien Rice, which brings us down to earth a bit — recital by the singer/guitarist Damien Rice, which brings has devoted so much of his time to reflect on our good fortune that Alexis Andrews of his sloop time and energy to make all this happen. With the building and although the pace has started a revival of the flagging boatbuilding in Carriacou, to see the new sloop sailing, slackened, there are vessels being built. I can’t wait must get back to Carriacou again, soon. Magras, who have given so much time and effort over the years to make the West Magras, who have given so much time and effort over it may never have happened Indies Regatta such a special event and without whom on the quay, French style in the first place. This is followed by a local band playing young band Sound Citizens — accordion, singers lively but not brash — and then the from Antigua who played music to suit all tastes. garboards and throat bolts — so much so that the atmosphere almost smells of garboards and throat bolts — so much so that the evening with Carib in hand tarred marlin. Bruce’s mannequin is dressed up for the below with her leg stuck out and gown blowing in the wind; that’s when she is not of the porthole. What you up to, Bruce? — the starting boat; having guests on board and with her heavy rig (including a 36-foot and with her heavy rig (including having guests on board the starting boat; (A little note When she does, she is fast. she is not competing today. main boom!) with jib and sloop carries a bowsprit why even when a Carriacou here. I wonder for Maiwenn on a cutter?) Anna and I crew still called a sloop and not staysail she is Beauty tug, she had been at Antigua Classics). A former steam was our committee boat (as 300 by her owners, Julie (Jules) and Mike, at least built in the UK and re-engined at the finishing line — she is part salvage boat, part feet long — or so it seemed her indefatigable owners. charter and mostly home to JUNE 2015 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 called PortMorganHotel,ownedbyaFrenchcouplewhoarrivedsailboat15years much aspossible. needed. Duringtheninedayswewerethere,triedtodistributeworkloadas boat, gettingwater,diesel,food,takeyouaroundtheisland—“enfin”,whateverwe French, theywerequicktolisttheservicesoffered—laundry,washing hand signals,French…whateverworked.Oncetheyrealizedwebothspokesome tee. Beautifulfaceswithfullsmiles,tryingtocommunicateabitofEnglish, anchor. Oncewehadsettledin,turnedourattentiontothewelcomingcommit- dugout canoesfollowedusin,holdingontotheboatevenbeforewehaddropped tainous silhouette.WehadfinallyarrivedinHaiti. to findwhatappearedbeparadise.Whitecliffsandcoconuttreeslinedamoun- to portandheadednorth,madeourwaythenorthwesterntipofisland, last month’s through theWindwardPassage(see“SmoothSailinginPassage” unaccounted for. this day,thecountryhasnotrecovered,andmillionsofdollarsaidmoneyremain Port-au-Prince, andbringingmoresufferingtothealreadydeprivedpopulation.To a magnitude7.0earthquake,killingcloseto300,000people,levelingthecapital notorious inmoderntimes(1957–1986). lation throughouttheyears,withPapaDocandBabyDuvalierbeingmost ernment. Aseriesofcorruptandviolentdictatorsexploitedrepressedthepopu- a hundredyearstopayitoff,atthecostofdestabilizingandimpoverishinggov- ised torecognizethenewstateifadebtFrenchslaveholderswaspaid.Ittookover established, withthemulattoesseizingwealthandpoliticalpower.Franceprom- of thewhiteminority,andsoonanewtwo-caste(blacksmulattoes)systemwas it createdanindependentgovernment.Thenewgovernmentorderedthemassacre successful slaverebellioninhistory.Iteliminatedslavery,itestablishedastate,and tory. In1804,theslavesrebelledagainstFrenchcolonizers,whichledtoonly Republic. Sincehistorydefineswhomwebecome,hereisalittlebitofHaitianhis- western partoftheislandHispaniola,whichitshareswithDominican The anchorageandthescenerywerebreathtaking.Thereisahoteluponhill Our arrivalatIle-à-Vache,specificallyPortMorgan,wasintense.Manykidsin After sailingour42-footsloop, As ifsuchaviolentandunequalhistorywasnotenough,in2010Haitihitby Haiti isthepoorestcountryinwesternhemisphere;itoccupiessmaller by Monica Pisani Joy andHope Hardship, Haiti: Ile-à-Vache, Compass ), CaptainJonathanandIfinallysawIle-à-Vache.Weturned Journey , 250nauticalmilesfromGreatInagua
DESTINATIONS inches offreeboard,andatarptoprotectusfromthewaves,ifneeded. tourists dressedintheirkhakis.Withtheboatpackedovercapacity,weonlyhadsix wooden boat;wewereabout25people,mostlylocalswearingbrightcolorsandafew he arrangedforaboattopickusupateighto’clockthenextmorning.Itwassmall complete pictureofthecountry.WearrangedwithJean-Jeantobeourguide,and their advice;itwasnotasalespitch. were togoLesCayes.Wedidthemainland,andwegladfollowed boat. Localstoldusnottotakeourboat,andaguidefromtheislandifwe sidering thattheclosestofficeisonmainland,almostanhourawaybymotor- go throughCustoms/Immigration.Thegovernmentseemstobeacceptingthis,con- German, andveryfewAmericans.MostoftheboatsthatstopatIle-à-Vachedonot are fresh.Itwasdeliciousandtheexperienceimpossibletoforget. were requiredsincethereisnorefrigeration,sothechicken,fishandlobster We wenttoLesCayes,thesecondlargestcityinHaiti,becausewewantedamore There wasaconstantflowofboats,mostlywithFrenchandCanadianflags,some Haitian dailylife we startedtofeeltheweightof welcome andsafe.Asdayspassed, Below: Peoplewerequitefriendly,wefelt what appearedtobeparadise Left: Whitesails,whitecliffs…wefound Reservations andorderingthedaybefore while kidsandchickensranabout. at Jean-Jean’stwicewithotheryachties, where heoffersmealstovisitors.Weate owns ahouseontherightsideofbay, country thatoffersverylittle.Jean-Jean Haitians tryingtomakealivingin kids. Heisoneofthemanyresourceful big smile,marriedwithtwobeautiful cooking onmakeshiftoutdoorstoves. their fishingnets,andthewomenwere were runningaround,menfixing noon inthelifeofafishingvillage—kids and safe.Itseemedlikeanormalafter- ple werequitefriendly,wefeltwelcome we walkedalongtheonlydirtroad,peo- and thekidshavetopaygoschool.As sewer, noelectricity,runningwater, economically deprivedarea:ithasno anchorage islocated.Itobviouslyan spelled CailleCoqorKaKock),wherethe ago. ThemainvillageisKayKok(also Early on,wemetJean-Jean,niceman, —Continued onnextpage JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 St. Vincent & the Grenadines MARINA - WATER - ICE - LAUNDRY - WATER MARINA 2 minutes to Custom & Immigration Clearance Don’t say you’ve been to the Caribbean, the to been you’ve say Don’t visit you Grenadines The until 3 Nights Stay w/Breakfast • 1 Waterfront Dinner for 2 3 Nights Stay w/Breakfast • 1 Waterfront US$599 • 20% OFF to Caricom Residents & Students Above: The anchorage and the scenery were breathtaking 1 All-Inclusive Boat Trip to the Tobago Cays • Bottle of Bubble on Arrival Cays • Bottle of Bubble on Tobago to the Trip All-Inclusive Boat 1 www.unionanchorage.com facebook.com/unionanchorage +1.784.458.8221 ANCHORAGE YACHT CLUB • UNION ISLAND We treasured the opportunity to be in Haiti, to meet its beautiful gentle people who We treasured the opportunity to be in Haiti, to meet its Ile-à-Vache, was “we found My first impression of Kay Kok, as we first arrived at pens and pencils, crayons, If a visit to Ile-à-Vache is in your plans, take notebooks, On our way to the orphanage a second time, we went through the island’s market, we went through the island’s the orphanage a second time, On our way to in second visit. A very small woman, she was dressed We met Sister Flora on our a ride on Caesar’s father’s wooden sailboat, a type To return to Kay Kok, we caught Left: In the absence of cars and trucks on the island, donkeys are a common sight Left: In the absence of cars and trucks on the island, donkeys was taking back what was left over. In the boat, space was a rare commodity; we was taking back what was left over. In the boat, space and shoes. During the were all sitting on top of, or stepping on, fruits, grains, the boat, although the four of 45-minute boat ride a few waves found their way into the feelings that flooded us barely moved. We were quiet, deep in thought, distilling our hearts and disturbed our almost perfect lives. much from them, and we will always wore their biggest smiles. We have learned so never forget our visit. of the Haitian daily life; we paradise”. As days passed, we started to feel the weight lack of access to some of the witnessed the constant struggle of its inhabitants, the health care, and transporta- most basic necessities such as water, food, education, they figured out how to tion. However, no matter how difficult it was, somehow, hope. Such resilient people. endure the hardships, and somewhere they find joy and Such a difficult life. Such an unequal world. need everything. old sails, clothes, toys, anything you can spare. They We wanted to visit and volunteer some time doing whatever she needed done. The time doing whatever she needed visit and volunteer some We wanted to Kok. We asked a two-hour walk from Kay the orphanage is located was village where us there. We from Ile-à-Vache, to take the few high school students Caesar, one of and mango lined with banana, coconut, morning, we walked roads met early in the fishing vil- by mangroves, and through up and down hills, passed trees, we went school in their heavy loads, kids going to donkeys carrying lages. We encountered near the well and women washing clothes men tilling the land, colorful uniforms, life! — such a different vegetables were The grains, fruits, and no other we had seen before. a market like next to animals, mud, and trash, with no concept of basic displayed on the dirt, right comprehension. hygiene. Poverty beyond our up silver cross around her neck, and she wore her hair a white habit with a simple and frail, when she spoke, you could feel her strength in a bun. Although she looked She of her children with immense love and concern. the size of her heart. She spoke many things such as toys, lotions, and personal hygiene said the orphanage needed the best gift. Please check their website (www.caissede- items, but that money was on for details bienfaisancecn.com/events/en/orphelinat_soeur_flora_haiti.sn?igl=e) We were there all day, and we did the work they how to donate, if you are interested. experience and an emotionally intense day. asked us to do; it was a humbling and He was at the market selling a variety of items, known for its super-large sails. Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE Continued from previous page Continued from In 1974 Sister Flora, a French Canadian nun, started an orphanage at Ile-à-Vache. In 1974 Sister Flora, a French Canadian nun, started After we were through Customs, we were finally free to visit the famous market. It After we were through Customs, we were finally free to Les Cayes is dirty and chaotic; it has no running water or sewer; its streets are Les Cayes is dirty and chaotic; it has no running water After almost an hour, we arrived at our destination. As we approached land, we destination. As we approached hour, we arrived at our After almost an was immense. You can buy just about anything there: medicine, clothing, shoes, was immense. You can buy just about anything there: meat, and the list goes on. toys, fruits, vegetables, cement, grains, bread, chicken, our way back to where the We bought a few things at the market, and started on obvious restaurants in sight, boat was. We were all hungry, and since there were no at the dining-room table in Jean-Jean took us to a home that served lunch. We sat we all had fried fish and rice. someone’s living room with a few local students, and day at Les Cayes. The food was fine, but it took some time to digest that barely paved and there is hardly a sidewalk. The air was thick with dust; the town barely paved and there is hardly a sidewalk. The air overload. looked grey, and had a strong foreign smell. It was sensory realized there was no dock, and we would be landing on top of compressed garbage be landing on top of compressed was no dock, and we would realized there to a second filthy. We were transferred the ocean milky grey and and dirt, making close to shore. each other as it was poled we stood and held on to boat, in which taken off the locals and tourists alike were what was happening, Before we realized waist-deep everyone ashore through of young men, who carried boat on the backs we felt. close to describing what a buck. Words cannot come water to make — JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 over ourmorningbrew. together, butwestillenjoyeachother’scompanyandhavelotstotalkabout coffee-haven moment,wejustchilloutandtalkaboutlife.Yes,dospend24/7 lurking isahugelistofboatprojectsthatarewaitingforustotacklethem.Inour can lieinbedandrelaxdrinkourcoffeepeace,sinceweknowthatoutthere and deliversittoourstateroom.Wealwaysappreciatethistimeoftheday,whenwe or cold,weloveit!Everymorning,BillmakescoffeeforthetwousinaFrenchpress we mustconfess,areaddictedtothiscaffeineinfusion.Whetheritisservedhot It remindedusofarumdistillery. growing, harvesting,roasting,grindingand tastingofcoffee.Absolutelyfascinating! guide escortedusthrough,anddelivered anextremelyinformativeexplanationofthe amazing toseetheriverharnessedand theentirefacilityrunbywaterpower.Our still usestheoriginalmachinerytosort and processtheverybestcoffeebeans.Itis cloud forest,wascrisp,coolairandthe La VictoriaCoffeeFarm. tains. WearrivedfirstinthevillageofMinca, andthenfartherup,justshyofthe holes thanflatsurfacesandsnakeditsway upintotheSierraNevada’smistymoun- Marta inthebackofafour-wheel-drivevehicle;roadseemedtohavemorepot- beautiful coffeeplantation,FincaLaVictoria,withitsamazinghistory. Cuba, Panama,CostaRica,HondurasandColombia. favorite coffeesduringourtravelsincludethosefromtheCaribbean—Guadeloupe, day. Wehavetriedhundredsofdifferentcoffeesfromaroundtheworld.Some our You mighthaveanicknameforcoffee:MorningMud,JetFuel,orBrainJuice.Well, Built originallybyaBritishcompanyin 1892andnamedafterQueenVictoria,it It wasanadventurousbutbone-jarringridefromthedryseasidecityofSanta Recently, wehadamonth-longColombianadventurethatincludedtourof a La VictoriaCoffeeFarm,Colombia We considerourselvescoffeeconnoisseurs,andwedrinktwoorthreecupsper The Daily Grind, Caribbean Style: Caribbean DailyGrind, The in theWorld! Some ofthe Some Best CoffeeBest by BillandJoAnneHarris ALL ASHORE… —Continued onnextpage JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 Agents for: Long 62º 50.1’ W Lat 17º 20.3’ N Lat 17º 20.3’ W Long 62º 50.1’ Haul & Storage Haul & Haul and Launch $ 11 / ft. Haul and Launch $ 11 - FREE high speed Wifi. . Beat the Hurricane season rush. Have access . Beat the Hurricane season Our 164 ton Travel Lift has ability to lift boats up to 35 ft Our 164 ton Travel “QUALITY SERVICE AT A GREAT PRICE” GREAT A AT SERVICE “QUALITY BOAT YARD YARD BOAT LOCATED AT NEW GUINEA, ST.KITTS GUINEA, ST.KITTS NEW AT LOCATED LO St. Kitts Marine Works Marine St. KittsSS www.skmw.net E-mail: [email protected] Cell: 1 (869) 662 8930 REGULAR HOURS FOR HAUL: Thurs 8am to 3pm, Fridays 8am to Noon Monday to Special - 5% discount for full payment. Special - 5% discount for full Storage $ 8 / ft / month at any time and not get stuck behind other boats. to your vessel to be launched to put keel down down available ($3/ft), backhoe available ($100/hr) to dig hole Tie and ($45/hr), Welding in etc. Pressure wash, Mechanics ($45/hr), Electricians Carpenters available. wide and 120 feet long. No extra charge for Catamarans. allow you to do your own work on your boat. We Payments – Cash (EC or US$) Visa, Mastercard, Discover & travellers checks (must sign in front of completely fenced property with CCTV. 24 hr manned Security, us with ID) available. and electricity Water , S/V Finisterre JoAnne with a coffee-lover’s dream — big bins of beans, ready to be bagged or roasted . They enjoy writing cruis- S/V Ultra tradition is to always sample the local beer, coffee and rum of all of the Ultra Continued from previous page Continued from JoAnne and Bill Harris are from Clear Lake, Texas and both hold 100-ton USCG Our Mike has perfected his hobby of coffee roasting and, after taking the reins a few Well, recently while here in Bocas Del Toro, we were blessed to have the great Our Coffee Roasting Opportunity Now we are in Panama. In all of our years of cruising, we had never had the oppor- If you ever get the opportunity to tour this coffee plantation, you must do it. You The farm has dealt with an extremely troubled past riddled with terror and death. The farm has dealt with an extremely troubled past riddled La Victoria has an amazing history and is truly resilient. We have heard that coffee truly resilient. We have heard an amazing history and is La Victoria has The premium coffee we sampled and purchased at the end of the tour was exqui- at the end of the tour coffee we sampled and purchased The premium Previous page: Coffee beans from raw to roasted, and vintage processing machinery At Finca La Victoria, a fresh ripe coffee berry in hand ing articles and sharing their experiences. To follow their sailing adventures visit www.jandbyachtultraadventure.blogspot.com Master licenses and sail aboard their trimaran, places we visit. Next time you sit down with a cup of coffee, savor the moment and remember how much love and care was taken to produce some of the best coffees in the world. Grab a Caribbean cup of Joe; it is sure to perk you up! years ago, has kept the delicious tradition of Bocas Marina & Yacht Club Coffee production going. He buys the green coffee beans from a farm in Boquete, Panama. Roasting is a delicate process and it takes special care to roast them to perfection. We helped make French, Vienna and Traditional Roasts. As each batch was roasted and somewhat cooled, JoAnne and Kay proceeded to bag and tag all of the batches pound by pound. with their passion for roasting coffee. We met them for the first time in Grenada several years ago and were delighted to meet up with them once again. opportunity to help our friends and fellow cruisers, Mike and Kay of tunity to participate in the coffee bean roasting process. The roasting process is what brings out the amazing flavor and aromas, as well as the beautiful spectrum of colors of the beans. By varying the heat, different coffee flavors, such as Vienna or French roast, can be achieved. Green coffee beans are heated to between 350 and 465 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 to 20 minutes. Higher temperature roasting will generate darker color and more intense aroma and flavor. will not be disappointed — it is a great hike and a wonderful education. The families located in the surrounding pueblos once witnessed unbelievable vio- The families located in the surrounding pueblos once guerillas (FARC) were in lence and kidnappings on a daily basis. The revolutionary being involved in drug traf- the jungle actively taking prisoners, killing hundreds and and their employees, the ficking through this region. To protect their investment came to an agreement to end coffee farm owners negotiated with the guerillas and on the working families. They the violence against La Victoria and to have mercy workers in the village and that explained that the farm was supporting hundreds of to thrive in peace. While the guerillas should spare them and allow their business to realize the violence that visiting this serene emerald green paradise, it was hard had once taken place here. is not the easiest thing to produce. Weather, disease, earthquakes, volcanoes, war disease, earthquakes, thing to produce. Weather, is not the easiest After the full of trials and tribulations. have made this profession and other factors restarted in 1950 by a German couple who ran it until founders left, La Victoria was his wife Claudia then took over. 2002. Their son, Micky, and site! It is all exported, except for what is sold to the coffee farm tourists. The hill of sold to the coffee farm tourists. except for what is site! It is all exported, is sold to see in the parking lot is what and “thirds” that you beans of “seconds” for Colombian coffee. the Colombians — furnaces include the numerous vats, many, and the similarities We have visited that propel them. the tremendous water sources and of course
JUNE 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 VAUGHAN-RICHARDS tional businessman,MauriceGibbs.Withhim,she taboos, beforesettlingdownwithrespectableinterna- She fellinlovewithamarriedman,breakingmany that womenweretreatedaslessimportantthanmen. William Cumming,shewasbornarebel,didnotlike both aristocraticandrich.TheeldestchildofSir 1932 itwasanhour-and-a-halfrideonaricketybus. from PortsmouthtoCalibishieinabout20minutes.In ing thetwohalvesofisland.Todayyoucandrive political achievementswasthebuildingofaroadlink- best optionwasthegovernmentlaunch.OneofElma’s ing linkedthetwo.Totravelfromonetoother network surroundedRoseauandthesouth,butnoth- Portsmouth throughCalibishietoMarigot,andaroad Indies. Inthosedaysaroadofsortsranfrom to alegislativecouncilintheentireBritishWest postage stampforbeingthefirstwomaneverelected the 25-acrePointeBaptisteEstate. built byElmaandLennoxNapierin1934,ispartof peeking overthetopofvegetation.Thishouse, small darkishbeach,asteephill,andhousejust island, andlookbacktowardtheland,youwillseea Pointe Baptiste,Calibishie,onthenorthcoastof opened oneandoffereditaround.Itwaswonderful. I boughttwoand,beinghungryafterhoursofhiking, at thebottomitsaid“Producer:AlanNapier,Calibishie.” Baptiste Estate,DarkChocolate80%”.Insmallprint wrapped inplasticwithadecorativelabel:“Pointe near theRossMedicalSchool.Ispiedbarsofchocolate my companionsandIstoppedattheIGAsupermarket
Rodney Bay,St.Lucia Elma wasborninScotland1892intoafamily Elma isaniconicfigureinDominica,featuredona If youstandontheeasternpartofredrocksat After arecenthikeinDominica’sSyndicateForest,