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Incidents of Travel and Adventure in the Far West

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Incidents of Travel and Adventure in the Far West THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES INCIDENTS OF febel miir in SHtst. ^bfrenture tjje Jfar INCIDENTS TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE FAR WEST; COL. FREMONT'S LAST EXPEDITION 1 ACHOS3 THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS : INCLUDING THREE MONTHS RESIDENCE I> CTAH. AND A PERILOUS TKIP ACROSS THE GREAT AMERICAN DESERT, TO THE PACIFIC. BY S. N. CARVALIIO, ARTIST TO THB EXPEDITIOK. NEW YORK: DERBY & JACKSON, 119 NASSAU ST., 1859. ZMTEBIB according to Act of Conp-eie, in the year 18H, ky DERBY & JACKSON, h Ik* Clerk't Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern Dutrirt of New Yo W. H. TIKIOK, Stereotype. 6cow RDMJOJ. 4 Co., Print*. f 5? 5 TO MRS. JESSIE BENT ON FREMONT, THIS BOOK 18, BY PERMISSION, MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED. 485433 LIBRARY PREFACE. IN preparing this volume for publication, I have not followed any established system of arrangement. The incidents are most of them transcripts from original let- ters, written in the familiar style of friendly correspondence. The description of a journey from Great Salt Lake City to San Bernandino, is an exact copy from my journal, written after many days of wearisome travel. The Mormon Episodes, I have rendered almost verbatim from " personal relations by the parties themselves, and not from hear- say." While the Latter-day Saints publicly adopt every opportunity to openly avow and zealously propagate the System of Poly- and gamy in direct opposition to the established acknowledged nations I code of morality as practised by all civilized bu its which ^ exercise my prerogative in exposing some of abuses, consider destructive to morality, female delicacy, and the sanctity of marriage. Vlii PREFACE. To prove the correctness and authenticity of my statements, with regard to the moral and ecclesiastical views of the Lattei- day Saints, I have appended to -the end of this volume, several discourses and addresses, some, of which were delivered during my sojourn in Utah, by President Brigham Young and his apos- tles, and reported by G. D. Watt, Esq. of Great Salt Lake City' For the rest, I submit myself to an indulgent public. THE AUTHOR. BALTIMOKB, MB., September, 18M. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. First Introduction to Col. Fremont Author's previous Opinion of Him His Impulsive Resolution to accompany Col. Fremont, as Artist of the Exploring Expedition across the Rocky Mountains, 17 CHAPTER II. Preparations for the Journey Daguerreotype Outfit Scientific Knowledge required Departure from New York Alden'a Preserved Food Esteem of Col. Fremont's former Companions for him Arrival at St. Louis Steamboat F. X. Aubrey Com- pagnons de Voyage Arrival at Kansas, 30 CHAPTER III. Landing of Camp Equipage Westport First Camp Ground Preparations Extortion Author and Companions First Daguerreotypes Rain Storm Distribution of Arms and Ammunition Engagement of Delaware Chiefs Branding of Animals California Saddle-Horses Selects his Pony Becomes his own Ostler Description of Catch- ing a Mule on the Mountains Examination of Camp Equipage Trial Start First Camp, 23 CHAPTER IV. Shawnee Mission Indisposition of Col. Fremont He returns to Westport The Expedition proceeds onward Sunrise on the Prairies Meeting of our Delawares Pottawatomie trading Post Author turns Carpenter Expediency A Kansas " " Blacksmith Astonishment Quarter Master Persecution Success against Con- spiracy 39 CHAPTER V. Letter to W. H. Palmer Col. Fremont's Return to St. Louis, and increased Illness- " " Expedition under charge of Delawares Camp Proceeds to Smoky Hills Fort Riley Solomon's Fork First Buffalo Barometers go on a Buffalo Hunt Encamp- 1* CONTENTS. " ment on Salt Creek "Indian Method of Cooking Buffalo Meat Olla Pudrida Wasting of Provisions Kinnikinick Havana Segars Indian Amusements Camp Life Hewers of Wood and Drawers of Water Author's Opinion of Col. Fremont- He Nominates him for the Presidency, 84 CHAPTER VI. Kansas Territory Arkansas and Kansas Rivers Tributaries Timber River Bottoms Varieties of Game Cereals Coal Geological Formation Adventure in the Woods Wild Grapes Indian Method of procuring them Brandy vs. Poison Return of the Author's Brandy-flask He turns Washerwoman Novel Mode of Mangling Clothes Lost Mule Beaver Trappers Rifle Practice, 40 CHAPTER VII. Delaware Medicine Man Illness of Capt. Wolff Author turns Doctor Empty Com- missariat Expedition to Fort Riley for Fresh Supplies Professor Espy's Theory of Rain Indians on Kansas Prairies Sleet and Snow Storm Tent Blown Down Approach of Cold Weather" Pony Missing," 46 CHAPTER VIII. Author's First Buffalo Hunt Pursuit Perilous Situation-Mode of Attack by the Indians Solitary and Alone- Pony killed for Food-An 111 Wind that blows Nobody any Good Incredulity of Indian Hunters Return to Camp Prairies on Fire Suffocating Smoke Mr. Egloffstein on a Wolf Hunt Fire Light and Moonlight- Camp surrounded by Fire Dangerous Situation Arrival of Colonel Fremont Preparations to resume our Journey Escape through the Blazing Element, . 50 CHAPTER IX. Walnut Creek Necessity of strict discipline Neglect of duty-Horses stolen-Chey- enne Indians Thieves overtaken Watchfulness of Col. Fremont Immense herds of Buffalo Buffalo hunt on a large scale Buffalo chips Prairie dogs, Owls, 4c. Indians in camp Raw Antelope liver, 62 CHAPTER X. " Cheyenne Indian Village Big Timber" Daguerreotypes Indian Papoose Author is Suddenly Changed into a Magician Silver and Brass Bracelets Portrait of Indian " Princess Presto, pass!" Moccasins Cheyennea and Pawnees at War Grand Scalp-dance Col. Fremont a Spectator Dinner with the Chief Rosewood Carved Furniture not in Use Duties of Indian Women Employment of the Men, . 67 CHAPTER XI. Bent's Trading Post Purchase Fresh Animals Buffalo Robes Immense Lodge Fre- mont's Lodge Doctor Ober Hia Scientific Knowledge Attachment of the Author to him- -His Preparation to return to the States Arkansas River Giant Cotton Woods Islands in the Arkansas Bent's Fort destroyed by Indians Preparations to cross the Mountains First View of the Rocky Mountains Bid adieu to Doctor Ober Tl CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XII. Journey up the Arkansas Bent's Fort Huerfano Uiver and Valley Description of the Country Huerfano Butte Behind Camp Daguerreotypes Scientific Observations- Approach of Night Trail Lost, and Encampment in the Woods Buffalo Robes and Blankets Col. Fremont sends to find us Bear Hunt Roubidoux Pass Emotion of Col. Fremont when Looking upon the Scene of his Terrible Disaster on a Former Expe- dition Found a Half Starved Mexican Col. Fremont's Humanity His Skill in Pistol Shooting, 75 CHAPTER XIII. Sand-hill Pass San Louis Valley Natural Deer-park- Smoked Venison Last sight of Game Rio Grande del Norte Sarawatch Cochotope Pass First Snow in Moun- tains Gunnison's Wagon Trail Summit of Pass Waters commence to flow towards the Pacific Encampment Immense Rugged Mountain Impracticability of ascent by Mules The Author ascends on Foot Col. Fremont accompanies him Daguerreotype Panorama from its Summit Col. Fremont's Consideration for his Men -Sublimity First View of Grand River Reflections Return to Camp, . 80 CHAPTER XIV. Intense Cold Author's First Journey on Foot Immense Mountains of Snow Escape of his Pony Lose Sight of Companions Arrival at top of the Mountain Pony Recovered Revolution of Feeling Indian Gratitude Exemplified Horse Steaka Fried in Tallow Candles Blanc Mange New Year's Day Dangerous Ascent of a Mountain Mules tumble Down Animals Killed Successful Attempt Next Day Camp in four feet of Snow Coldest Night Sleep out in open Snow, . 84 CHAPTER XV. Descent of Snow Mountains Gun for a Walking-stick Indian Tracks Examination of Arms Predicament of the Author Lecture from Col. Fremont Wild Horse Killep by Indians Utah Indian Village Encampment Trade for Venison Camp at Night Surrounded by armed Indians They Demand Payment for the Horse Killed by the Indians Col. Fremont's Justice Indians want Gunpowder Their Demand Refused Massacre of the Party Threatened Defiance Pacification Author Trades for a Horse He Leaves his Colt's Revolver in Camp Runaway Horse Author Finds himself in a Sage Bush Pistol Recovered Trouble in Perspective Exchanges Horses Lame Horse Author on Foot Regrets that he was not Educated for a Horse- Breaker, 89 CHAPTER XVI. Grand River Descent of Mounted Indians into Camp Military Reception Their de- mands Trouble Expected Excitement of the Author Exhibition of Colt's Revolvers Col. Fremont's Knowledge of Indian Character The Great Captain in his Lodge- Alarm of the Indians Quadruple Guard Departure of Indians Vigilance the price of Safety Crossing of the Grand River Horse Killed for Food Review of Our Position Impressive Scene Cold Night Mr. Fuller Whites without Food Beaver Shot The Camp under Arms Fa se Alarm, M Xli CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. Divide between Grand and Green River Capt. Gunnison's Trail Without Water- Formation of the Country Castellated Bluffs Green River Indians Crossing of the Green River Interview with Indians Disappointment Grass-seed Manner of Preparing it for Food Horse Purchased Starving Condition of the Whites Incident Exhibiting the Moral Dishonesty of one of the Men Name not Published Dinner on Porcupine "Living Graves" Tempestuous Night Reflections on Guard No Grass Frozen Horse Liver Blunted Feelings, 104 CHAPTER XVIII. Careless Packing of Animals Mule Missing Their value as Roadsters Col. Fremont's Horse gives outr-His Humanity Exemplified Wolf killed for Food Raven Shot- River Bottom Original Forest Large Camp Fires Terrible Rain Storm Disagree- able Bed Darkness Fires Extinguished Value of Rain Glorious Sunrise Contrast with Home Comforts, Ill CHAPTER XIX. Crippled Condition of the Party Mr. Oliver Fuller Mr. Egloffstien Mr. Fuller gives out His Inability to Proceed Mr. Egloffstien and the Author continue on to Camp for Assistance Col. Fremont sends Frank Dixon after him Sorrow of the Camp- Mr. Fuller's Non-Appearance Delawares sent out to Bring the Men in Return of Frank Almost Froxen Restoration of Mr.
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