Volume 6 Spring 2000 No. 2

OST Travelers to Converge on Taos June 10 and 11 By Willard E. Lewis, Jr. Come join SOME TAOS TRAVELERS ON THE OLD SPANISH TRAIL in Taos on June 10-11 at the Old Span- ish Trail Association’s Annual Confer- ence! The “Taos travelers” theme is woven throughout super program ses- sions on June 10, and three field trips on June 11.

Keynoting the conference will be Dr. Marc Simmons, an eminent profes- sional historian and author of the Southwest, with 35 books to his credit. His topic will be Kit Carson and the Romance of the Old Spanish Trail. This will be the first public presentation by Simmons in about three years. While Simmons has researched and written extensively about the Santa Fe Trail, and served as a founder and president of the The Saint Francis of Assissi Mission in Ranchos de Taos, New Mexico Santa Fe Trail Association, he has Photo courtesy of C.W. Querfeld more recently turned to extensive For many years travelers, artists and photographers have visited the Taos study of Kit Carson. Simmons was area to enjoy its many offerings. The San Francisco de Asis Mission is but one knighted by order of the King of of many attractions. The scenery, atmosphere, architecture and cuisine captivate Spain in 1993 for his contributions the senses. Book shops, art galleries and missions provide other satisfactions. Continued on the back cover Spring 2000 1 Revised Location for in Stockton, California, plans to have Officers and Directors: 1998-2000 its Year 2000 Rendezvous here in San PRESIDENT: Jedediah Strong Smith Dimas in October. Their meeting will Dr. Charles W. Querfeld be at the same time that we will be 2040 Longs Peak Ave. 15 February 2000 Longmont, CO 80501 celebrating our Western Days. 303-651-3403 Judy Querfeld, Editor [email protected] SPANISH TRACES I have taken the liberty of sending a VICE PRESIDENT: PO Box 47 copy of this letter to one of your di- Willard E. Lewis, Jr. Niwot, CO 80544 rectors, John Robinson. John is a PO Box 6073 member of the San Dimas Westerners Santa Fe, NM 87502 505-984-2978 Dear Ms. Querfeld: and is quite familiar with the location [email protected] of the Smith statue. This letter is a follow-up to the tele- PAST PRESIDENT: Ron Kessler phone message that I left at your num- Please convey my best wishes to the 1026 S. Co. Road 2E ber on Monday. I am writing to you in Carpenters. With the exception of the Monte Vista, CO 81144 my capacity as the President of the San location of the Jed Smith statue, I en- 719-852-5225 Dimas Historical Society, Past Sher- joyed their article immensely SECRETARY: iff of the San Dimas Westerners, and Marie Greene Board Member of the San Dimas Fes- Sincerely, P.O. Box 483 tival of Western Arts. Angel Fire, NM 87710 Nick Martocchio 505-377-6342 [email protected] Your Winter 2000 issue contains an article written by Kenn and Lorraine TREASURER: Richard Greene Carpenter, Experiencing the Old P.O Box 483 Spanish Trail from a Bicycle Saddle. Angel Fire, NM 87710 While I enjoyed the article, I was quite 505-377-6342 surprised to see the statue of Jed Smith [email protected] on page 8 listed as being in La Verne. DIRECTORS: This statue, the only one of Smith, is William L. Chenoweth located in San Dimas on the grounds 707 Brassie Drive of the San Dimas City Hall. It is the Grand Junction, CO 81506 970-242-9062 first piece of public art that the Festi- [email protected] val of Western Arts had sponsored, and represents an item paid for in the John Coffman 1014 Wagon Trail Dr. SE most part by the people of the City of Albuquerque, NM 87123 San Dimas, California. While we can 505-298-9865 understand that the Carpenters could [email protected] easily have been mistaken because of Reba Wells Grandrud, Ph.D. the lack of boundaries between La 2322 East Cholla Street Phoenix, AZ 85028 Verne and San Dimas, the location 602-992-0339 should be correctly noted in your next [email protected] edition. The San Dimas, California monument Ronald K. Jewkes to Jedediah Strong Smith 74 Bryner Street The Jedediah Smith Society, located Helper, UT 84526-1025 435-472-0719 All matters relating to Spanish Traces should OSTA’s efforts will help preserve one of [email protected] be directed to the Editor: America’s great long distance trade routes and Judy Querfeld, PO Box 47, Niwot, CO increase appreciation of the West’s multi- John W. Robinson 80544 Telephone: 303-651-3403 cultural heritage. Please join us! 1345 Cameo Lane E-Mail: [email protected] Fullerton, CA 92831 Membership Dues: 714-528-8609 Spanish Traces is the official publication of Institutional $25/year Elizabeth von Till Warren the Old Spanish Trail Association, a nonprofit Family/Individual $12/year PO Box 19039 organization incorporated under the laws of Student $ 5/year Jean, NV 89019 the State of Colorado. ST welcomes submis- Send your checks to: 702-874-1410 sion of letters, articles, and OSTA related Treasurer, OSTA, PO Box 483, Angel Fire, [email protected] news. The next deadline is August 15, 2000. NM 87710 2 Spring 2000 issues have succeeded primarily a long term struggle with the NPS to President’s Corner because of your willingness to achieve National Historic Trail This is my last column as the presi- provide good copy for our newslet- status on terms that are reasonable dent of the OSTA and it is appropri- ter. Judy will retire from her labors and responsible to the OSTA and the ate to comment briefly on how our after the Fall 2000 issue. We hope public in general. association is faring. The state of that there is a nascent editor among health of the OSTA has improved you who will accept this responsibil- In closing, I want to convey my materially because of your support ity for the following few years. gratitude to all of the OSTA govern- and the hard work by your officers ing board, the chapter presidents and and directors. I especially want to The future of our association will the membership for your support thank Richard and Marie Greene for necessarily include major trail during the past two years. Finally I their herculean labors in increasing conservation efforts. Growth in the must thank my wife for her help and our membership from below 100 Las Vegas area and in adjacent forebearance. members to our present 270 mem- California has the potential for bers. effacing a number of pristine OST segments that are the only surviving Noticias Our chapters have also increased in mule traces. OSTA members must number: Southern California and Las assist our new governing board in On March 31, Utah Board member Ron Vegas Chapters have been estab- this effort. There will be major Jewkes attended the dedication of an efforts at preservation preceded by OST interpretive sign in Moab, Utah. lished with efforts by John Jewkes and the Mayor of Moab un- Robinson, OSTA director for Cali- mapping and marking activity. veiled the plaque in the Old City Park fornia, and Nick Saines in Las Because we have funds that have in Moab. (Photo in the Fall 2000 Vegas, NV. Yvonne Halburian has been donated for durable trail memo- issue.) revitalized the Saguache Chapter. rials, I ask that you assist the govern- Jack and Katherine Nelson of the ing board in placing the most impor- The Utah State Historical Society Mesa County Chapter have estab- tant memorials, Santa Fe, Abiquiu produced a fabulous map of Utah lished a very much needed liaison and San Gabriel Mission. Historic Trails from Dominguez- with the Colorado congressional Escalante in 1776 up through early delegation in our on-going effort to The NPS preliminary report of the automobile routes (ca. 1910-30). The convince the National Park Service study of the OST should be released map may be obtained from the Utah (NPS) that the OST genuinely merits in June or July of this year. The State Historical Society Bookstore: recommendation that will be offered 801-533-3525 at a cost of $5.00 plus National Historic Trail designation. shipping. is unknown, although past experi- My wife, Judy, the editor of Spanish ence suggests that the NPS will Steve Madsen has been preparing a Traces, has produced a series of continue to be (forgive me) mulish complete update for our website—and issues that include interesting and about granting historic trail status. members should be sure and check it important articles written by a broad No matter what the outcome of the out at http://www.slv.org in the near spectrum of our members. These study the OSTA must be prepared for future.

Chapter contacts and addresses John Sharpe William Workman Chapter Jack Nelson Brackenbank, Clifton Mesa County Chapter Yvonne Halburian Penrith 2276 Windwood Court Saguache County Chapter Cumbria CA10 2AE Grand Junction, CO 81503 P.O. Box 502 England 970-241-8143 Saguache, CO 81149 719-655-2529 Willard Lewis Nick Saines Salida del Sol Chapter John Robinson Las Vegas Chapter P. O. Box 6073 Southern California Chapter 1587 Figueroa Drive Santa Fe, NM 87502 1345 Cameo Lane Las Vegas, NV 80123 505-984-2978 Fullerton, CA 92831 702-896-4049 [email protected] 714-528-8609 [email protected] Spring 2000 3 Chapter Reports Act several years ago recognizing and program is presented through the urging what we are all trying to do. It auspices of the Speakers’ Bureau of could be that the Park’s folks will re- the Historical Society of New Mesa County alize that we are very serious about this Mexico. The Annual Chapter Mem- Where has the winter gone? We here Trail. bership Meeting will be held at the on the Western Slope had a most happy conclusion of the program session. winter, had very few nights below It is our most sincere wish that all the zero, and heaviest snowfall came on historians/evaluators who will hope- The final series program will be in the first day of Spring. We are pro- fully complete and submit the report Abiquiu on May 20. Chapter mem- gressing quite well with our marker to on the Old Spanish Trail this year, will bers will gather at the Abiquiu commemorate the “Crossing of the have an opportunity to view at least Library at 1:30 p.m. to present Grand.” some segments of the route from the Southwestern books to the Library. ground. Hopefully when we dedicate Following will be a program on the We have been donated a huge boul- the “Crossing” rock, you all can come history of Abiquiu presented jointly der, about 5' x 4' x 6'. Through the and view it and pretend this is the same by Aubrey Owen, curator of the kindness of a local road construction boulder that Colonel Loring mentions Ghost Ranch Museum, and Augustin operator, and the knowledge and when he came across here in the Garcia of Abiquiu. Details are still wherewithal of members of our Chap- 1850s, as one marking the crossing. being worked, so contact Chapter ter, the boulder is resting in place at President Willard Lewis at the top of the arroyo along the old his- Jack Nelson, President 505-984-2978 for specifics if you are toric road bed leading down to the Grand Junction, Colorado not a Chapter member, but are river crossing. We are in the process interested in attending. of accepting bids for the bronze plaque at present. The plaque will read Salida del Sol In addition to programs, the Chapter “Crossing of the Grand. To honor the The Salida del Sol Chapter has much has other activities to report. Chapter countless travelers who forded the to report since the Fall 1999 issues President Willard Lewis provided a Grand (Colorado) River from this site. of Spanish Traces! After two suc- two-hour December training session This arroyo’s location on the North cessful Fall programs, the chapter on the Old Spanish Trail to more Branch of the Old Spanish Trail and kicked off its Spring 2000 program than 50 Palace of the Governors the Salt Lake Wagon Road was a vital series with a March program, Gen- docents and staff. link in the opening of the West, c. eral Stephen Watts Kearny: Winning 1830-1880.” A list of sponsors follows the West, by Stephanie Kearny, the Chapter board member Pat Kuhlhoff the inscription. The whole thing will great-great granddaughter of General is researching requirements for be capped off with Yvonne’s familiar Kearny. The meeting was a joint obtaining permission to erect trail OSTA logo as displayed on Spanish meeting with the End of the Trail interpretive markers in Santa Fe and Traces frontispiece. Chapter of the Santa Fe Trail Asso- Abiquiu, and perhaps other sites in ciation, attended by more than 50 New Mexico. We have been quite actively commu- people. nicating with our national legislative Chapter members Richard and Marie staffs. We had a face to face meeting Our second Spring program will be Greene, Robert Shlaer, Charles with staff of both senators and one on April 29 at 2 p.m. at the Palace Bennett, Charles and Judy Querfeld, congressional office, and are receiv- Meeting Room of the Palace of the and Dr. Tom Chavez are assisting in ing very positive feedback. This com- Governors. The speaker will be Dr. planning and arrangements for the munication is not just a wham bang John Porter Bloom, former president OSTA annual conference in Taos on pat on the back and out the door, but a of both the Western History Associa- June 10-11. very interested supportive follow tion and Westerners International. through type of “take it to the bank” His topic is Johnny Gringo in New Finally, the Chapter has been invited help. You have to remember members Mexico: Kearny, Doniphan, et al, to participate in a Trails Commemo- of our chapter have been working on 1846-1848. His talk will focus on ration Project involving the Santa Fe this project for several years along the ordinary soldier in the Mexican Trail, the Camino Real, and the Old with other dedicated Trail folks. The War, and will be a nice follow up to Spanish Trail. Chapter President Colorado State Legislature passed an the March Kearny program. This Lewis is serving on a steering 4 Spring 2000 committee with other trails represen- home. on the National Board of Directors tatives, officials of the State Tourism of OSTA Department, the Santa Fe Conven- For our second fall outing, 26 of us Director: Helen Mortenson, one of tion and Visitors Bureau, and the assembled at the Mojave-River the movers and shakers in the preser- Palace of the Governors History Valley Museum Saturday morning, vation community in Las Vegas. Museum. An event may take place as November 20. Cliff Walker, a mu- early as October of this year. seum founder and noted Mojave Hal Steiner showed Nick Saines the Willard Lewis Desert authority, led us eastward to last stretch of intact OST in the Las Santa Fe, New Mexico Fork-of-the-Road, where the Old Vegas metropolitan area and Nick Spanish Trail branched away from launched an all-out effort to try to the Mojave Trail, then northeast save the stretch from development, Southern California through Spanish Canyon, up to although warned that it was too late. “Impassable Pass,” and on to Bitter In spite of great press coverage and a The Southern California Chapter Springs, a crucial waterhole now lot of interest from citizens and continues to grow. 1999 was a within the boundaries of the Fort members, the fight had to be aban- banner year with the dedication of Irwin Military Reservation. doned. One developer agreed, the plaque in La Plaza of Old Los however, to put in a little park and a Angeles in January, followed by five These two great fall outings made us plaque on the Trail on his property. well-attended outings, three last familiar with the Old Spanish Trail We are now trying to preserve the spring (previously reported in Span- through most of the California Trail just outside the metropolitan ish Traces) and two this past fall. desert. The hardships of the original area. travelers of this most historic path- Jane Stewart, one of our most active way were easy to imagine. In January we had a wonderful meet- and enthusiastic members, did all the ing at former Lieutenant Governor planning for the October 22-24 John Robinson, Chairman Lonnie Hammargren’s house/mu- outing. We met Saturday morning in Fullerton, California seum, where western artist Roy Purcell Shoshone (some came in Friday displayed and lectured on his art re- night and camped). After visiting an lated to the OST. In March Hal led a old desert mine, we drove east to Las Vegas four-wheel drive trip along the OST Mountain Springs, Nevada, where The Las Vegas Chapter had its between Las Vegas and Blue Diamond we were joined by ten members of organizational meeting last Septem- (Cottonwood Springs), including a the newly formed Las Vegas Chap- ber. We got the ball rolling with a walk on some relatively pristine ter. After lunch, we followed Harold field trip led by Stan Rolfe (BLM) stretches. Steiner, author of the just-published and Hal Steiner, which had great The Old Spanish Trail Across the press coverage in the Las Vegas Upcoming events in Las Vegas: On Mojave Desert, west, staying as newspaper. Our charter meeting was April 8 the reconstructed Mormon close as possible to the original route in November attended by OSTA Fort will be dedicated, presided over of the trail. We visited Stump Spring President Charles Querfeld. We now by Chris Macek. The same day Nick and Emigrant Pass, where traces of have 16 paid members, and a much Saines is leading a combined Sierra the trail can still be seen; and ended larger E-mailing list. Club/OSTA field trip along the OST up at the oasis of Resting Springs, near China Ranch in California. where owner and fellow OSTA The elected officers of the Las Vegas In May the chapter will be participat- member Harry Godshall greeted us. chapter are: ing in the Statewide Archaeological The Las Vegas Chapter members President: Nick Saines and Historic Preservation Week – then headed home, while most of our Vice President: Hal Steiner, author May 14 through 20. We will have a Southern California members re- of a recently published book on the table at the Southern Nevada Ar- mained overnight in Shoshone, some OST through the Mojave chaeology and History Festival on attending the performance at the Treasurer: Chris Macek, ranger at the 14th and will have a walk along Amargosa Opera House that the Old Mormon Fort on the OST in the OST in Blue Diamond on the evening. Sunday we visited China Las Vegas 20th. Ranch and walked along a stretch of Secretary: Karen Earley Nick Saines, President the Amargosa River before heading Director: Liz Warren, historian and Las Vegas, Nevada Spring 2000 5 The Old Spanish Trail

Significant in the Opening of the West

The Spanish Trail was a significant corridor in the opening of the West. Efforts to find the best and most direct routes to the Pacific in the gold rush era, led Pacific railroad surveyors over long segments of the Spanish Trail and brought the American Southwest largely out of its logistical isolation. But by 1858, the “Map of the Utah Territory Showing Routes Connecting it with California and the East,” issued by the Corps of Topographical Engineers, carried the bold phrase “Region Unexplored Scientifically.” Supplementing the work of the railroad sur- veys, the explorations of the Topographical Engineers and the scientific surveys of Hayden and Wheeler, many of which followed the Spanish Trail route, vastly increased America’s geological and geographical knowledge of the region. More- over, the Spanish Trail helped government explorers fill in the blank places on the map of the United States. In addition, the yet unexploited areas of the West could be easily accessed via the Spanish Trail by miners, farmers, cattlemen, and lumbermen who studied the government publications and maps. (The map pub- lished as a result of the 1859 Macomb military expedition, which located over 200 miles of the Spanish Trail route, provided valuable information for men rush- ing into Colorado’s mineral-rich Southern Rockies and for cattlemen who sup- plied the miners with beef.) Beyond plotting the easiest routes into the West, these studies delineated the irrigable lands, revealed the mineral resources, and mapped the vast timber and grazing lands. Furthermore, 19th century travelers of the Spanish Trail enhanced the West’s historical literature and helped debunk the geographical myths, including El Dorados and fictitious lakes, streams, and mountain ranges.

Contributed by Steven K. Madsen

Editor’s Note: Madsen’s listing of U.S. Government Publications that reflect the significance of the Old Spanish Trail in facilitating the mapping, examination, and description of the West’s vast resources follow. Detailed ar- ticles by contributing authors on Fremont’s 2nd Expedition, Brewerton, Gunnison, Marcy, and Fort Jurupa also follow. The trail made possible gathering of basic scientific information of the region; and the world could see the American Southwest that had formerly been blank space on maps of the United States.

6 Spring 2000 Several 19th Century U.S. Government Publications that Document the Old Spanish Trail U.S. Congress. House. Ex. Doc. 91, 33rd Cong., 2d sess.: “Reports of Explorations and Surveys, to Ascertain the Most Practicable and Economical Route for a Railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. Made under the direction of the Secretary of War, in 1853-4, according to Acts of Congress of March 3, 1853, May 31, 1854, and August 5, 1854.” Vol. 2, Washington, D.C.: A. O. P. Nicholson, Printer, 1855. (See pages 58, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, and 69.)

U.S. Congress. House. Ex. Doc. 193, 43rd Cong., 1st sess., 1874. (See pages 25, 26, 27, and 56 of “Reconnaissance in the Ute Country. Letter from the Secretary of War, Transmitting a report and map of reconnaissance in the Ute country, made in 1873 by Lieutenant E. H. Ruffner, of the Corps of Engineers.”)

U.S. Congress. Senate. Ex. Doc. 78, 33rd Cong., 2d sess.: “Report of Explorations and Surveys, to Ascertain the Most Practicable and Economical Route for a Railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. Made under the direction of the Secretary of War, in 1853-4, According to Acts of Congress of March 3, 1853, May 31, 1854, and August 5, 1854.” Vol. 3 (Washington, D. C.: Government Printing Office, 1856). (See pages 125, 130.)

U.S. Congress. Ex. Doc. 41, 30th Cong., 1st sess.: “Notes of a Military Reconnaissance from Fort Leavenworth, in Missouri, to San Diego, in California, including part of the Arkansas, Del Norte, and Gila Rivers. By Lieut. Col. W. H. Emory.” (Wash- ington, D.C.: Wendell and Van Benthuysen, Printers, 1848.) (See page 460 about the “famous mule trail from Santa Fe to the ‘Pueblo de los Angeles’ in California.”)

Frémont, John C. Report of the Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains in the Year 1842, and to Oregon and North California in the Years 1843-’44. By Brevet Captain J. C. Frémont, of the Topographical Engineers, under the orders of Col. J. J. Abert, Chief of the Topographical Bureau.”(Washington, D.C.: Gales & Seaton, Printers, 1845).(See pages 259,270,271.)

Hayden, F. V. Eighth Annual Report of the United States Geological and Geographical Survey of the Territories, Embracing Colorado and Parts of Adjacent Territories; Being a Report of Progress of Exploration for the Year 1874. (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1876). (See page 377 of the Report of W. H. Jackson.)

Hayden, F. V. Ninth Annual Report of the United States Geological and Geographical Survey of the Territories, Embracing Colorado and Parts of Adjacent Territories: Being a Report of Progress of the Exploration for the Year 1875. (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1877). (See page 349 of “Topographical Report on the Grand River District,” by Henry Gannett.)

Hayden, F. V. Tenth Annual Report of the United States Geological and Geographical Survey of the Territories, Embracing Colorado and Parts of Adjacent Territories, Being a Report of Progress of the Exploration for the Year 1876. (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1878). (See page 189 of “Report on the Geology of the Sierra Abajo and West San Miguel Mountains, by W. H. Holmes.”)

Hayden, F. V. United States Geological and Geographical Surveys of the Territories, Geological and Geographical Atlas of Colorado and Portions of Adjacent Territory. (Washington, D.C.: Julius Bien, 1877). (See Sheet VIII.)

Macomb, John N. Report of an Exploring Expedition from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to the Junction of the Grand and Green Rivers of the Great Colorado of the West, in 1859, with Geological Report by Prof. J. S. Newberry. (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1876). (See pages 6, 80, 81....)

Ruffner, E. H. Annual Report upon Explorations and Surveys in the Department of the Missouri, by E. H. Ruffner, First Lieutenant of Engineers, U.S.A.; Being Appendix QQ of the Annual Report of the Chief of Engineers for 1876. (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1876). (See page 20.)

Williamson, R. S. Reports of Explorations and Surveys to Ascertain the Most Practicable and Economical Route for a Rail- road from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean... Vol 5. (Washington, D.C.: Beverley Tucker, Printer, 1856). (See pages 33-34 of “Report of Explorations in California for Railroad Routes to connect with the Routes near the 35th and 32d Parallels of North Latitude.”) Spring 2000 7 Explorations dating back to Coronado and Cabrillo (1539-40) secured Mexico’s claim to California John Charles Frémont’s Second and an interior mountain and basin domain that the United States would Expedition and the Old Spanish eventually carve into five states— Nevada, Utah, Arizona, New Trail Mexico, and Colorado. But Britain, already in control of the vast region by Patricia Joy Richmond of North America known as Canada, considered adding the Far West to their ever-expanding empire a fair When John Charles Frémont set soldiers presented a real threat to prospect. forth to explore trails and wilderness America’s expansionist plans. terrain of the Far West in the spring Marcus Whitman’s daring ride from The government guide hired to lead of 1843, he was aspiring toward the his Columbia River mission to Taos, Frémont westward over the Oregon pinnacle of his exploratory career. A New Mexico, via the Cochetopa Trail was a crusty Missourian named survey of the Wind River Mountains branch of the Old Spanish Trail, and Thomas “Brokenhand” Fitzpatrick of central Wyoming the preceding thence to Washington, D.C. to lobby who had considerable experience year launched Frémont’s reputation Congress to “save Oregon for the within the western mountains. as America’s Pathfinder. Examina- Union,” fired patriotic ambitions to Charles Preuss, whose grumbling tion of the Sweetwater River and secure what political propagandists diary entries provide insightful legendary South Pass during that of the day promoted as America’s comments on Frémont, Kit Carson, first expedition culminated in a territorial right to extend its border and the 1842 expedition in general, precise map identifying one of the to the Pacific Ocean. The young again served as cartographer. With- most important routes through the nation’s Manifest Destiny dream out official sanction, Frémont de- Rocky Mountain barrier. Frémont’s depended upon large congregations cided to drag along a brass cannon. well-received, exuberant report of settlers successfully migrating An uneasiness had haunted the 1842 describing America’s frontier, across a vast and hostile landscape. expedition after Jim Bridger spread a viewed for decades as a desert wild rumor about several tribes wasteland useless to civilized agrar- Suddenly famous, but still remark- preparing for warfare. Perhaps ian peoples, encouraged thousands ably young, John Charles Frémont Frémont felt apprehensive about the of migrants to head west toward the received his commission for a kind of reception the 1843 expedi- twin promises of new land and new second expedition with specific tion might encounter not only along fortunes. orders to explore the Oregon Trail to the trail but also within disputed the Pacific coast. Private confer- territory. Whatever Frémont’s rea- The objective of train-like mass ences with his superiors may also soning, the cannon became a nui- migrations of settlers walking, have brought suggestions to scope sance and slowed the expedition’s pushing handcarts or driving wagons the strength of Britain’s presence and progress. However, as a military laden with precious relics from how far toward California, already a leader Frémont dared not ditch the abandoned lives was the Pacific fabled Eldorado, the British may artillery piece where it might fall Northwest—specifically Oregon. have extended their influence. The into civilian or hostile use. From 1818 to 1846 the United States United States’ clear title ended at the and Britain disputed the right to lay Rocky Mountains, western boundary Frémont’s second expedition de- claim to this fruitful land. A few of Jefferson’s Louisiana Purchase; parted from Kaw Landing (Kansas bold missionaries tentatively rein- but the Lewis and Clark expedition City) May 30, 1843. Touted as one forced the United States’ claim, but had carried America’s flag to the of the best-outfitted expeditions to Canadian trappers and British mouth of the Columbia River. leave the Missouri frontier, they

8 Spring 2000 carried scientific instruments essen- smaller group able to travel more the Sweetwater River and South tial for an accurate and complete rapidly, Frémont would scout un- Pass. (In 1824, Fitzpatrick had survey and enough supplemental known terrain while the main party wintered near South Pass with fur provisions for an absence of eight proceeded along known routes. Kit trapping comrade Jedediah Smith.) months. Fourteen months would Carson, who had established a Frémont’s smaller party examined a pass before the 39 well-seasoned friendship with Frémont while road leading through an unexplored frontiersmen who joined Frémont, serving as guide for the 1842 expedi- “high prairie, broken by buttes and including some veterans of the 1842 tion, sometimes worked as a hunter boulders, with scattered cedars, the expedition, would return to anxious for Bent’s Fort on the Arkansas dividing ground between the families. Amazingly, considering River. Upon hearing about Laramie and Cache la Poudre.” severe weather, formidable terrain, hostile encounters with native Mapping the legendary South Pass people, and intrusions into disputed had opened a northern route through and foreign lands, only two members the Rockies to each and all who of the party perished. (The expedi- dreamed of venturing west. How- tion could have ranked as a disaster ever, hordes of migrants bound for along with Frémont’s 1848-49 fourth Oregon quickly denuded land ad- expedition in which one third of the joining the trail of firewood and men who entered the San Juan pasture. The influx of travelers into Mountains of Colorado died of remote, wild country also threatened hypothermia and starvation.) other natural resources essential to survival. Locating alternate routes to More to the chance of luck, particu- the Pacific would become an impor- larly in securing guides who had tant and necessary objective of first-hand knowledge of trails and Frémont’s second expedition. terrain, Frémont’s career as the Pathfinder would remain secure. His Fremont’s two parties reunited on report for the 1843-44 expedition the Sweetwater River August 9 and gave potential migrants an accurate then proceeded to the Green River and extensive portrayal of North via South Pass. By September, the America’s western frontier. Though expedition, in passing through the not anticipated at the time of depar- Bear River Valley on the Idaho-Utah ture, one of the major contributions border, skirted north of the Wasatch of Frémont’s second expedition Frémont’s new expedition, Carson Mountains. Upon arriving at the would be exploration of the high joined ranks at El Pueblo without Great Salt Lake (first encountered by desert basin and range country lying even bothering to say farewell to his Jim Bridger in 1824), Frémont and a between the Rocky Mountains and new bride in Taos. Frémont hired small party took an India rubber boat California. Frémont’s careful docu- Carson as a guide, but at lower pay out to an island where they spent the mentation of the landscapes and than Fitzpatrick who continued as night making astronomical and other resources would provide essential the official guide for the main party. scientific observations. A sudden knowledge for anyone bound to storm almost caused a disaster with California via either the Humboldt After celebrating Independence Day the boat and its occupants as they River or the Spanish Trail. at Fort St. Vrain, the reunited expe- returned to shore the next day. dition moved to a camp on the Big To accommodate the inconvenience Thompson River before heading After a stop at Fort Hall, Frémont’s presented by a train of carts and the north toward the Cache la Poudre. expedition continued their journey cannon, Frémont took to dividing his Fitzpatrick and the main party toward Oregon by a route compa- expedition into two parties. With a continued over known trails toward rable to modern U.S. Highway 30

Spring 2000 9 (replaced in part by Interstate 84). In tion crossed the corner of California, of their 104 horses and mules either following the Snake River, they near the modern town of Alturas, to had been stolen or had perished passed the American Falls and enter a desert wilderness. Frémont enroute. Compromised by diminish- camped at “Riviére Boisée” (Big may have anticipated finding the ing supplies and dying animals, the Woods River) to arrive at Fort Nez Humboldt River, thereby connecting expedition’s survival now hinged Percé on the mighty Columbia the with Ogden’s 1828 route to the Great upon a drastic decision. last week in October. Leaving their Salt Lake. (The Humboldt River carts with friendly American settlers would become Frémont’s route To avert potential starvation and on the “Walahwalah,” Frémont’s westward toward California on his complete disaster, Frémont and his party transferred supplies to pack third expedition.) Certainly Frémont men had three options: 1) Stay put to animals. The trip along the Colum- hoped not only to explore the Great regain strength while hoping severe bia Gorge provided fantastic views Basin, but also to ascertain existence weather or blizzards would not of Mount Hood, Mount St. Helen of the fabled Buenaventura River completely destroy any prospect for and “Mt. Regneir,” [sic], the latter which supposedly linked the Great survival; 2) Continue to push east two spewing volcanic ash. Salt Lake to the Pacific Ocean. To with hopes of finding some relief this end his intended line lay through with friendly Indians or at one of the Frémont found many Americans at territory “absolutely new to geo- mountain man outposts; 3) Cross the Fort Vancouver while noting others graphical, botanical, and geological formidable Sierra Nevada barrier. had already set to colonizing the sciences.” Only the last promised warmer “Walahmette” Valley. British agents weather, hospitality, and an opportu- of the Hudson Bay Company pro- Even today, the northwest corner of nity to re-supply if the expedition vided a cordial reception for the Nevada comprises a formidable, could successfully endure passage explorer and members of his party, desolate region subject to danger- through the mountains. Even but Frémont did not tarry. Instead, ously unpredictable weather experience-toughened Kit Carson, the expedition, fortified with provi- changes. Frémont’s report describes renowned as having seen and done it sions sufficient for three months, alkaline lakes, boiling springs, mud all as trapper and mountain man, headed east up the Columbia as if flats, black rock deserts, and the odd declared they had no choice but to returning to the States. However, formation characterizing Pyramid ascend the Sierras to save the expe- upon reaching the Dalles in Lake. Following along the western dition. Frémont’s men may have mid-November, Frémont turned edge of the lava beds and dry lake concurred, but not without reserva- south at the Deschutes River to lowlands, where cold air settles in a tion. follow a route first traveled and puddle as in a chest-style, deep mapped by Peter Skene Ogden. freeze, the expedition arrived at a Today, with knowledge of regional (Ogden, working for the Hudson Bay meadowland basin now encroached climate and modern highways Company, retraced his entire route by modern Reno’s condominiums, passing through towns filled with from Fort Clatsop to the Humboldt resorts and golf courses. Frigid air places for lodging, gas, and food, it River in 1829.) The mild coastal sweeping off the glaciated peaks in becomes easy to second-guess climate, which permeates much of mid-January, coldest of winter decisions made by pioneering ex- the Columbia’s rift-like gorge, months, sapped waning strength plorers like Frémont. Nevada, with vanished as the second expedition from men and animals. its desolate, and basin and range trudged through snow-clad moun- configuration, holds more desert tains in central Oregon. Frémont had intruded into Mexican regions than Arizona. Farther east lie territory soon after passing Goose the mountain ranges of Utah and Upon reaching the headwaters of the Lake. During the trek across the lava mile upon mile of dry, labyrinth Klamath River in southern Oregon, desert, the expedition acquired some canyons. The Colorado Plateau, Frémont turned southeast to pass supplemental provisions by trading buttressing the west face of the along the east shore of Goose Lake. with Indians for piñon nuts and Rocky Mountains, remained as During Christmas week the expedi- antelope meat. However, one-third untamed as any other mid-19th

10 Spring 2000 century western wilderness. cials, but also to assess the mind-set “relatively benign basin” at the of Californians both native and eastern base of the mountains. For two decades mountain men had foreign born. (Historians tend to place the expedi- traipsed into California either to hunt tion in the vicinity of Grover Hot beaver or to procure horses and While attempting to cross the Sierra Springs.) mules. Lured by tales of “perpetual Nevadas in mid-winter may appear spring,” several parties of settlers foolhardy in hindsight, Frémont’s On February 1, the men received had already migrated from Missouri men had accepted that alternative as permission to kill and eat a dog that into the upper Sacramento Valley to the most likely prospect for their had been a traveling companion settle near the fort of John Sutter. survival. Success would allow the since the Bear River. The expedition Like the mountain men who eventu- expedition to acquire fresh animals easily covered 16 miles February 2; ally took roots in Taos and Santa Fe, and adequate supplies for the jour- the next day, seven miles. By day Sutter and his American neighbors ney home. Success could afford four, they were mired in deep snows. agreed to pledge fidelity to Mexican Frémont opportunity to evaluate the The struggling pack animals refused law in exchange for the privilege of situation in California and to deter- to move until relieved of baggage. taking up land. The Mexican au- mine sympathies of colonists and One man, Baptiste Derosier, disap- thorities, following their Spanish peared. (Listed as lost, he eventually forefathers’ policy of establishing found his own way back to Mis- outliers populated with Christianized Frémont’s second souri.) On the 18th day of their Indians or half-breeds (half Spanish, expedition was the ordeal, February 20, 1844, the half French), tolerated the outsiders first United States expedition topped a summit south of by assigning them to buffer areas Lake Tahoe. (Discussion continues most likely to carry the brunt of military expedition to among knowledgeable historians in attacks by “wild” Indians, that is travel the Old Spanish determining exactly which pass the Native groups not conscripted as Trail second expedition took across the slave labor for the California mis- Sierras.) Using a spyglass, Carson sion system. spotted landmarks familiar from his foreign settlers. The second trapping days with Ewing Young. Speculation cannot fully explain expedition’s fateful decision also Frémont estimated they had traveled Frémont’s motive in his decision to would place Frémont in the position 1,000 miles since leaving the Dalles. detour from the well-known trail of leading the first U.S. military leading back to the States. Manifest expedition across the Old Spanish During their descent of the pass, the Destiny advocates, like Frémont’s Trail. expedition started killing their pack father-in-law, Missouri’s Senator animals for food. Charles Preuss lost Thomas Hart Benton, had already Sierra Nevada slopes and summits his way and wandered for three days cast an American eye toward Cali- commonly receive a half dozen feet without sustenance except ants, fornia. Santa Fe Trail travelers and of snow at a time. Unable to secure a small frogs and wild onions. (From traders, familiar with political guide among local Indians, who then forward Preuss’s diary entries dissatisfactions in New Mexico, warned of extreme danger by repeat- reflect a changed attitude toward hinted a friendly reception if the ing their word for snow (anglicized wilderness life.) After another 14 United States ever decided to inter- to the name, Lake Tahoe), the second days of mountain travel down vene in Mexico’s affairs. Perhaps expedition headed toward the moun- headwaters of the Rio de los Frémont deliberately took his mis- tains on its own. Finally, Frémont Americanos, Frémont’s rag-tag sion toward Mexican territory not gave an order to abandon the can- second expedition finally reached only to determine whether the non. Marching south along the foot Sutter’s Fort. A full month of British had extended their influence of the Sierras, possibly in search of life-threatening ordeals had brought into northern California, remote Jedediah Smith’s pass (Ebbetts them to relief. One half of the pack from the scrutiny of Mexican offi- Pass), the expedition made camp in a animals forced across the mountains

Spring 2000 11 had survived. The expedition lin- April 9th journal entry reads, “We frontier; but his representation, gered two weeks to recuperate while have here approached considerably which described it as an arid and Frémont conferred with Sutter and nearer to the eastern Sierra, which barren desert, that had repulsed by neighboring British and American shows very plainly, still covered with its sterility all the attempts of the settlers. masses of snow, which yesterday and Indians to penetrate it, determined to-day has also appeared abundant me for the present to relinquish the On March 22, 1844, with the coming on the Coast Range.” Upon missing plan; and, agreeably to his advice, of spring, Frémont and his men the trail leading to Walker Pass, the after crossing the Sierra, continue departed from the Sacramento expedition’s objective would be- our intended route along its eastern Valley. Keeping a low profile and come the road known as the Spanish base to the Spanish trail. By this avoiding coastal communities so as Trail, which tied the northern New route, a party of six Indians, who had not to aggravate concern among Mexican capital of Santa Fe to come from a great river in the Mexican officials, the expedition California’s el pueblo de los angeles eastern part of the desert to trade moved south along the Sacramento and nearby mission communities. with his people, had just started on River toward the juncture with the their return.” San Joaquin River. “ Our direct Frémont’s local guide advised that a course home was east, but the Sierra broad road, “Buen camino,” allowed Frémont’s new associate agreed to would force us south some 500 easy travel through ensuing hills accompany the expedition for a few miles of travelling, to a pass at the which Frémont described as “very days. April 14, Frémont wrote: “As head of the San Joaquin River.” broken country.” In approaching a we reached the summit of this Having obtained a description of pass (identified by Donald Jackson beautiful pass [filled with trees, Walker Pass (on highway 178 east of and Mary Lee Spence as Oak Creek flowers, hummingbirds and “other modern Bakersfield), Frémont Pass about five miles from feathered friends”] and obtained a anticipated exiting California via Tehachapi Pass [7]), the expedition view into the eastern country, we that route through the Sierra Nevada. encountered a dry stream bed im- saw at once that here was the place (Missourian Joseph Walker had been pregnated with numerous horse and to take leave of all such pleasant a member of Bonneville’s 110 man Indian tracks. “We ascended a trail scenes as those around us. The trapping party that traveled from for a few miles along the creek, and distant mountains were now bald their Green River outpost to explore suddenly found a stream of water rocks again; and below the land had beaver prospects in California in five feet wide, running with a lively any color but green.” According to 1832. Later, in 1843, Walker opened current, but losing itself almost Frémont, the road over this pass the main cutoff into California from immediately.” Their camp in a [Oak Creek], which he found excel- the Oregon Trail when he took a “handsome, green oak hollow” lent for horse travel, could be im- party into California via the contained enough grass and pea proved to accommodate wagons Humboldt River. Walker’s route vines to feed their livestock and with a bit of labor: became the gold rush trunkline into horses. California--the California Trail.) “We here left the waters of the After conferring with a “Christian bay of San Francisco, and, Continuing southward past the Tulé Indian” on furlough from the San though forced upon them Lakes, where fog lay so thick they Fernando mission, Frémont re- contrary to my intentions, I had to navigate by compass, the marked, “I have entered the pass cannot regret the necessity expedition crossed a large stream [Oak Creek] with a strong disposi- which occasioned the deviation. which Frémont identified as the tion to vary my route, and to travel It made me well acquainted main headwater of the San Joaquin. directly across towards the Great with the great range of the (This river now bears the name Kern Salt lake [sic], in the view of obtain- Sierra Nevada of the Alta River in honor of Edward Kern, who ing some acquaintance with the California ... it also made me would serve with Frémont’s third interior of the Great Basin, while well acquainted with the basin and fourth expeditions.) Frémont’s pursuing a direct course for the of the San Francisco bay and

12 Spring 2000 with the two pretty rivers and interior communication from the San and Indian dresses and equipments their valleys, (the Sacramento Francisco bay, now fully ascertained, intermingled—such was our compo- and San Joaquin,) which are gives great additional value to the sition.” The procession, with scouts tributary to that bay, and cleared Columbia, which stands alone as the taking the lead, pack and stock up some points in geography on only great river on the Pacific slope animals in the middle, stretched a which error had long prevailed. of our continent which leads from quarter of a mile, often in a state of It had been constantly repre- the ocean to the Rocky mountains, undisciplined confusion. sented, as I have already stated, and opens a line of communication that the bay of San Francisco from the sea to the valley of the On April 15, a snowy range stretch- opened far into the interior, by Mississippi.” ing eastward came into view as the some river coming down from expedition continued their march the base of the Rocky moun- Having reached the land of Joshua south. After riding all day through tains, and upon which supposed trees and cacti, the expedition fields of orange poppies, they stream the name of Rio continued its southward journey -- reached a series of hollows where Buenaventura had been be- “the trail on which we rode appear- their guide announced, “a este piedra stowed. Our observations of the ing to describe the eastern limit of hay agua.” Frémont commented, “He Sierra Nevada, in the long travel, where water and grass termi- appeared to know every nook in the distance from the head of the nated.” Through heat and haze, they country. We continued our beautiful Sacramento to the head of the observed a few barren buttes and road, and reached a spring in the San Joaquin, and of the valley ridges. Frémont’s guide spread his slope, at the foot of the ridge...” In below it, which collects all the hands and described the scene of crossing Cajon Pass (north of mod- waters of the San Francisco bay, “the great llanos, ‘no hay agua; no ern San Bernadino) on April 17, they show that this neither is nor can hay zacaté—nada: there is neither arrived at a small lake with alkaline, be the case. No river from the water nor grass—nothing; every but drinkable, water. Before turning interior does, or can, cross the animal that goes out upon them, southwest toward his mission, the Sierra Nevada. …” dies.’ It was indeed dismal to look guide pointed to a dark butte on the upon, and hard to conceive so great a eastern horizon, “aqui es camino, ... Considering the number of migrants change in so short a distance. One no se piedre -- va siempre.” Using destined to invade California, this might travel the world over, without this landmark, Frémont proceeded enlightenment about the geography finding a valley more fresh and along a barely visible trail to reach of the region might well justify verdant ... than we had left in the “the Spanish trail, deviously traced Frémont’s determination to explore San Joaquin here, with a few miles from one watering place to another, the Mexican territories. ride, a vast desert plain spread which constitutes the route of the before us, from which the boldest caravans from Pueblo de los Ange- Frémont’s remarks further reinforce traveller turned away in despair.” les, near the coast of the Pacific, to the purpose of his mission as well as Santa Fé of New Mexico.” the importance of United States’ The second expedition had become a claims to the Oregon territory: motley conglomeration. In Frémont’s Excitement filled the air on April 20: “There is no opening from the bay of words, “forced south by a desert on “...after a difficult march of 18 San Francisco into the interior of the one hand, and a mountain range on miles, a general shout announced continent. The two rivers which flow the other: guided by a civilized that we had struck the great object of into it are comparatively short, and Indian, attended by two wild ones our search--THE SPANISH TRAIL, not perpendicular to the coast, but from the Sierra; a Chinook from the which here was running directly lateral to it, and having their heads Columbia; and our own mixture of north.” Since leaving the Columbia towards Oregon and southern Cali- American, French, German--all Gorge in mid-November, the expedi- fornia. They open lines of communi- armed; four or five languages heard tion had moved south and away from cation north and south, and not at once; above a hundred horses and their intended line of return. “The eastwardly; and thus this want of mules, half wild; American, Spanish, course of the road, therefore, was

Spring 2000 13 what we wanted; and, once more, we brought goods over the trail to trade lished camp away from the main felt like going homewards. A road to with the “Indians of the Sierras.” trail, which veered from the river a travel on, and the right course to go, The traders forewarned Frémont few miles upstream. Frémont’s party, were joyful consolations to us; and about the difficulties of taking joined by the two Mexicans, recon- our animals enjoyed the beaten track animals across the desert as well as nected with the road which now like ourselves.” horse thievery by the Paiutes in the passed through “a miserable tract of vicinity of the Rio Virgen. sand and gravel” marked by black Wind became their traveling com- ridges, sand-filled basins, and panion. Frémont noted that most of April 24, the second expedition boulder-strewn plains typical of high the information provided about the approached a stretch of the trail that desert country. Despite the misery of trail by people claiming to have presented “a very long jornada of this and terrain, snow shone upon passed over it was inaccurate. perhaps sixty miles, without water.” slopes of neighboring mountains. In Waterholes were nonexistent, dry, or Frémont’s men were engaged in seemingly dry arroyos the men found alkaline. Probably due to spring butchering and jerking meat from waterholes, dug by wolves, filled runoff, rivers surfaced where none three cattle, which had succumbed to with two feet of fresh water. supposedly existed. Although the Frémont noted though barren of road had been described as sandy trees, “the naked sand would bloom and gentle to horse’s hooves, the Frémont’s expedition with some rich and rare flower...” expedition “found it the roughest “found it [The Old and rockiest road we had ever Continuing eastnortheast through a seen...” According to Frémont, the Spanish Trail] the gap in the mountains, the expedition trail destroyed many animals every roughest and rockiest road approached the spring known as year with “a disease called the foot we had ever seen ...” Agua de Tomaso. Tracks revealed evil.” that the horses left by the Mexicans had been driven away. Frémont did Finding that even streams several the rigorous trek, when a Mexican not wish to waste time seeking feet deep eventually disappeared into man, Andreas Fuentes, and an 11 reprisal; but Carson and Alexis the sand, Frémont determined, “We year old boy, Pablo Hernandez, Godey, accompanied by Fuentes, were now careful to take the old approached the camp. Driving 30 offered to retrieve the animals. camping places of the annual Santa head of horses, their party had gone Fuentes returned to Frémont’s camp Fé caravans, which, luckily for us, ahead of “the great caravan” prepar- at nightfall, but Carson and Godey had not yet made their yearly pas- ing to depart from El Pueblo de los proceeded to the Indian camp. In a sage. A drove of several thousand Angeles. The small Mexican party moment turned violent, the moun- horses and mules would entirely had stopped at “one of the customary taineers killed two Indians whom have swept away the scanty grass at camping-grounds,” known as the Godey proceeded to scalp. Though the watering places...” Archilette (80 miles from Frémont’s the two men were successful in site), to await the arrival of the larger securing the stolen horses, the The expedition continued along the caravan. When a large party of brutality of their act shocked Preuss dry bed of the Mojave River, which Indians invaded their camp, Fuentes who denounced the incident in his the Spaniards had named Rio de las and Hernandez, who were guarding diary. Animas, to one of the usual camp- the horses, drove the herd away from grounds where they encountered the camp. Leaving the horses at a Advised by Fuentes that the next 40 some Mojave Indians, each of whom watering hole, Agua de Tomaso, the to 50 miles of trail lay through carried a cord-wrapped gourd can- two horse guards then back-tracked elevated desert, the expedition teen. From one Spanish-speaking in hopes of meeting some comrades departed late afternoon to take mission Indian, Frémont learned along the trail. advantage of traveling by moonlight. about various groups living along Frémont wrote, “the line of our road the Rio Colorado. These Indians had The second expedition had estab- was marked by the skeletons of

14 Spring 2000 horses, which were strewed to a expedition had about Godey and men to establish a diligent watch. considerable breadth over the plain. Carson’s victims. Frémont renamed The Indians’ actions seemed hostile We were afterwards always warned this camp Agua de Hernandez and and provoking for conflict; but on entering one of these long left a note describing the tragic “peace being our objective,” stretches, by the bones of these events for the caravan that would Frémont only ordered his men to animals, which had perished before arrive from the west. remain defensive. A small party, who they could reach the water.” As if had backtracked after some strayed heat and lack of water were not For several days the road continued horses, reported finding flesh of the enough misery, the expedition across desert terrain typical along the butchered animals hung on bushes to endured a sandstorm of gale force southern California-Nevada border. dry. A present of a worn-out horse to winds. (This stretch held only bitter The expedition repeatedly had to dig one group that evening initiated a water termed Amargosa by the for water. As horses gave out, dinful lament among others less Spaniards.) After a day’s journey of Fuentes would cut off mane and tail fortunate. Frémont’s journal does not 12 miles, Frémont’s men found a to make horse-hair girths before present a kindly description of these green valley at the foot of the moun- abandoning the animals to their fate. desert people, whom he designated tain, “the best camping ground we After traveling from 12 to 24 miles as “Diggers” speaking a Utah lan- had seen since we struck the Spanish per day through this rugged region in guage. trail.” Here were springs with fresh a slightly northeasterly direction, the water and sufficient grass to refresh expedition made camp in a large, The expedition managed to depart the livestock. spring-fed, marshy plain--las Vegas. their camp without incident. After another 20 mile stretch of desolation, The Archilette [Resting Spring], “Two narrow streams of clear water, they reached a river described by where the Mexicans had camped, lay four or five feet deep” gushed from Frémont as “A torrent, passing seven miles farther north over one of two large warm springs. Although swiftly by, and roaring against the worst stretches of desert yet to be Frémont considered the water too obstructions.” Having reached the encountered. While traveling, warm for a pleasant drink (at 70 plus Virgin River, flowing southwest Fuentes advised Frémont of a degrees), the springs provided the from snow-covered mountains in pulpy-fleshed plant eaten by travel- weary travelers with refreshing southern Utah toward the Rio Colo- ers to slake thirst. Amid sand sur- baths. rado, the expedition proceeded rounded by black ridges, the along the river bottom. Indians, Archilette presented an oasis of Next day the expedition set forth prowling in bands, waited for oppor- grass, willows, and springs. Upon early, but soon found the tunity to prey upon any animals left entering the silent campsite, the super-heated air oppressive. Skel- behind to rest for a few hours. After expedition found Fuentes’ etons of horses warned of “another traveling upstream about 28 miles, compadres massacred and mutilated; dry jornada, which proved the Frémont’s men realized they had lost the women, apparently taken cap- longest we had made in all our track of the road in the sandy soil tive. “A little lap-dog, which had journey—between fifty and sixty and had followed an Indian trail belonged to Pablo’s mother, re- miles without a drop of water.” through the brush-choked river mained with the dead bodies, and About midnight the wild mules, canyon. “In a few hours the hunters was frantic with joy at seeing Pablo: smelling water, began running ahead returned, having found a convenient he, poor child, was frantic with grief, and in a few miles the expedition, ford in the river, and discovered the and filled the air with after 16 hours of “uninterrupted Spanish trail on the other side.” lamentations...’Mi padre! -- mi march,” arrived at the Rio de los madre!’ -- was his incessant cry.” Angeles [Muddy River] branch of Unfortunately, this camp brought Frémont commented that “this the Rio Virgen. another fatal encounter with Indians. pitiable sight” and consideration of When one man, Tabeau, who had the fate of the two women removed The animals needed a full-day’s rest left camp to search for a mule, failed any “compunction” members of in this place, but Indians forced the to return, Carson and a small party

Spring 2000 15 rode out to investigate smoke rising distance one snowy range loomed explorer included not only locating from a cottonwood grove. They behind another. The evening of May Walker Pass but also memorizing the found the mule mortally wounded 10 they found a good campsite on lay of the Old Spanish Trail through with an arrow, but no sign of Tabeau the Santa Clara River. After 27 days Mojave country.) except a trace of blood on some dry spent crossing the desert, the men leaves. With dark approaching, the experienced their first rain. The road Heading north by northeast (along a scouts returned to the main camp. following the Santa Clara fork was line paralleling today’s Interstate 15 Next morning Fitzpatrick, Frémont, not easy. The change in weather as in Utah), Frémont’s expedition now and several others resumed the well as the terrain, now covered with reversed the route of Jedediah search which revealed that Tabeau pine and cottonwood, indicated their Smith’s famed 1826 trek which had probably had been wounded, desert ordeal lay behind them. opened the long-used Old Spanish dragged to the river, and thrown in Trail to a new generation of trappers, as nothing of him, or his property, In approaching the dividing summit traders, explorers, settlers and remained but blood on beaten-down between the waters of the Virgin and eventually gold-seekers. The track of bushes. “We wished to avenge his Sevier rivers, the animals grazed on this north-south route through death; but the condition of our abundant grass. The expedition had central Utah was not an easy one. horses, languishing for grass and arrived at “las Vegas de Santa Smith had referred to the region as repose, forbade an expedition into Clara,” which had been so long “a land of starvation” after his party unknown mountains.” Frémont presented to us as the terminating had almost perished. observed that the Indians who had point of the desert, and where the pestered the expedition the previous annual caravan from California to In passing through the Sevier River days now disappeared completely. New Mexico halted and recruited for Valley, the second expedition antici- some weeks.” The mile-wide, pated reaching Utah Lake, which If not for this tragedy, Frémont’s ten-mile long vegas, surrounded by Frémont presumed to be part of the men might have welcomed the snow-covered peaks, afforded both Great Salt Lake. On May 16, 1844, drastic topographical change in the men and animals a welcome and Frémont’s men camped on a small country through which the trail now much needed change. Frémont salt lake [Little Salt Lake] about led. “Our camp was in a basin below decided that all deserved “some seven miles long at the base of the a deep cañon—a gap of two thou- relaxation from the severity of camp Wasatch Mountains—”nearly oppo- sand feet deep in the mountain— duty; ... for camp guards, horse site a gap in that chain of mountains through which the Rio Virgen passes, guards, and scouts are indispensable through which the Spanish trail and where no man or beast could from the time of leaving the frontiers passes: and which, again falling follow it. The Spanish trail, which of Missouri until we return to them.” upon the waters of the Colorado, and we had lost in the sands of the basin, crossing that river, proceeds over a was on the opposite side of the river. Another six months would pass mountainous country to Santa Fé.’’ We crossed over to it, and followed before Frémont, and his men would Next day, with the expedition bear- it northwardly toward a gap which arrive in St. Louis. By good fortune, ing northeast, Frémont wrote: “After was visible in the mountains.” For or as Diego de Vargas would have 440 miles of traveling on a trail, mile upon mile, mountains had noted in his journal providencia which served for a road, we again presented an image of barren, divina, mountain man Joseph Walker found ourselves under the necessity boulder-strewn rock. Now the slopes also had departed California with a of exploring a track through the began to show cedar and pine, and horse caravan. Seeing signs of the wilderness. The Spanish trail had “clusters of trees gave shelter to second expedition’s trek through the borne off to the southeast, crossing birds—a new and welcome sight...” desert, Walker and eight others the Wah-satch range.” hurried ahead of their caravan and The morale of the expedition im- intercepted Frémont, shortly after his A party of Utah Indians, led by a proved as they proceeded through expedition left the Santa Clara chief “Walker,” approached the this more hospitable terrain. In the vegas. (Walker’s reputation as an expedition on May 20th. Frémont

16 Spring 2000 described the well-armed, mounted the Great Salt Lake.) “The circuit at Brown’s Hole June 7th and 8th, patrol: “They were journeying which we had made, and which had Frémont’s men exited the northwest slowly towards the Spanish trail, to cost us eight months of time, and corner of Colorado along the Little levy their usual tribute upon the 3,500 miles of travelling, had given Snake River (Frémont mistakenly great Californian caravan.” May 23, us a view of Oregon and of North identified the location of his June 10 the expedition built rafts to ferry California from the Rocky moun- and 11 observations as the Elkhead equipment and supplies across the tains to the Pacific ocean, and of the tributary of the Yampa River.) Sevier River which now turned from two principal streams which form its northerly course. (The Sevier bays or harbors on the coast of that The expedition continued its trek River passes through a gap in the sea.” toward the headwaters of the North mountains, makes a giant U-turn at Platte. Mid-June, they camped in the Tintic Valley, and then flows Having returned to northern Utah, “New Park” (Colorado’s North southwestwardly toward Sevier the expedition connected with Park). Unwilling to return to familiar Lake.) Here the expedition buried Etienne Provost’s 1824 route, which territory, Frémont turned his expedi- another casualty lost to a gunshot touched the south end of Utah Lake. tion southward. Their route then wound in the head. “Turning our faces once more opened onto Old Park [Middle eastward, on the morning of the 27th Park], headwaters of the “Grand” or Frémont noted the expedition had we left the Utah lake, and continued Colorado River. Frémont mused, heard Indian names during the 1,000 for two days to ascend the Spanish “...Old Park is interesting, though of miles traveled from the Dalles fork, which is dispersed in numerous a different character from the New; through the Sierra Nevada. Spanish branches among rugged moun- instead of being a comparative plain, names predominated from the tains...” With Walker as guide they it is more or less broken into hills, Sacramento Valley across the desert ascended a rough trail through the and surrounded by the high moun- to the Santa Clara vegas. French, Uintah Mountains. “From the sum- tains...” Here the expedition almost American, and British names spread mit we had a fine view of the snowy met with disaster again as a large from the Mississippi Valley to the Bear River range...” Their descent party of Arapaho and Sioux warriors Pacific. Frémont commented further: brought them onto the Uintah River. approached with intent to attack as “...this prevalence of names indi- the expedition’s line of travel had cates the national character of the June 1st, the expedition arrived at come from enemy territory. A parley first explorers.” Fort Uintah, “...a trading post, and large quantity of gifts success- belonging to Mr. A. Roubideau, on fully appeased the Indians. Early morning, May 24, the expedi- the principal fork of the Uintah tion sighted Utah Lake. “We had river.” Frémont described the out- Now they were in Carson’s home now accomplished an object we had post as “a motley garrison of Cana- territory. Explorations of surround- in view when leaving the Dalles of dian and Spanish engagés and ing terrain continued as they passed the Columbia in November last: we hunters” with a number of Indian into South Park. Exiting the Rocky had reached the Utah lake; but by a women. (A footnote in Frémont’s Mountains via Ute Pass, Frémont’s route very different from what we report indicates that after his expedi- second expedition returned to the had intended...” Fremont’s report tion departed, the fort was attacked mountain man outpost of El Pueblo continues, “In arriving at the Utah by Utah Indians who killed all the July 1, 1844, one year after depar- lake, we had completed an immense men and carried away the women.) ture. Their long absence had caused circuit of twelve degrees diameter The expedition secured basic sup- many to believe the expedition had north and south and ten degrees east plies of sugar, coffee, jerky, and a come to grief. After stopping at and west, and found ourselves in cow and then proceeded to Ashley’s Bent’s Fort July 2, the second expe- May, 1844, on the same sheet of fork . (In 1825 William Ashley dition turned homeward via the water which we had left in Septem- explored the Flaming Gorge and Smokey Hill Road and the Santa Fe ber, 1843.” (Based on his presump- country around today’s Dinosaur Trail. August 5, 1844, Frémont’s tion that Utah Lake was a thumb of National Monument.) After resting second expedition arrived in St.

Spring 2000 17 Louis amid a flurry of excitement. route had to be explored or ibly marked for future generations— re-discovered for official govern- Frémont’s Pond, Frémont’s Orchard, The explorations of Frémont’s ment reports and accurate maps used Fremont Pass, the Frémont River, expedition of 1843-44 presented the by professional trail masters or as more than one Frémont Peak, several first comprehensively accurate guidebooks that stirred imaginations Frémont counties, a half dozen cartographic representation of the of emigrants seeking a way west to towns, Pathfinder Reservoir, plus Far West. Their investigations the Pacific coast. species of trees, flowers, and ani- beyond the already rutted Oregon mals bear names honoring John Trail not only provided valuable With the advantages of science and Charles Frémont’s achievements. descriptions of the Pacific technology, modern generations have The second expedition’s long detour regions--the Columbia, the Sierra come to rely upon predictability. into California and its homeward Nevada, and upper California—but When disaster occurs, whether trek via the Old Spanish Trail altered would also add knowledge about one resulting from natural or human America’s perception of the West of the primary routes into southern causes, we clamor for accountability and transferred the corridors leading California. Frémont declared, “And because our faith in predictability across deserts, through canyons and in returning from California along failed. Frémont may not satisfy valleys, or past lofty peaks, from the the Spanish trail, as far as the head modern criteria to justify the fame he obscure domain of mountain men to of the Santa Clara fork of the Rio achieved in his day, but he and those the realm of public knowledge and Virgin, I crossed only small streams who traveled with him deserved the nation’s geographic treasury. making their way south to the their reputations as adventurers— See Section of the 1845 Fremont Colorado, or lost in sand—as the men willing to embark upon bold (Preuss) map on pages 20-21 Mo-hah-ve; while to the left, lofty journeys without assurance of the mountains, their summits white with outcome. (Frémont’s career was not Endnotes: snow, were often visible, and which without criticism in his lifetime.) [1] Barnes, Gertrude. “Following Fremont’s turned water to the north as well as Some 20th century historians have Trail Through Northern Colorado,” Colo- to the south,...” Frémont cautioned taken to dubbing Frémont a rado Magazine. #19, September 1942; pp. 185-189. that despite his expedition’s exten- Pathmarker because Spanish explor- [2] The Conquest of North America. The sive trek, the Great Basin itself had ers, priests, and gold seekers, as well Encyclopedia of Discovery and Exploration. yet to be revealed. as trappers and traders with homes in Garden City, NY: Doubleday and Company, Inc., 1973, 488 pp. with maps, illustrated. Taos or St. Louis, had previously [3] Frémont John Charles, Brevet Capt. To Following the initial successes of traversed most of the trails Frémont the Rocky Mountains in the Year 1842 and Jedediah Smith and Joseph Walker followed and mapped. (Generally To Oregon and North California in the Years 1843-44. Document No. 166. Wash- in penetrating the interior of Califor- Frémont’s reports acknowledge his ington, D.C.: Blair and Rives, Printers, nia, more and more Americans predecessors.) Unlike Columbus, 1845, illustrated. would use either the Old Spanish or Frémont was not a discoverer; he [4] Goetzmann, William H. and Glyndwr Williams. The Atlas of North American the Gila trail to enter California. was an explorer. Despite Revisionist Exploration: From the Norse Voyages to the While some trails traversed by efforts to redefine Frémont’s place in Race to the Pole. Norman: University of westering migrants originated with U. S. history, to his contemporaries Oklahoma, 1992, 224 pp. with maps, illustrated. individuals or specific groups, such Frémont was the Pathfinder. [5] Perrigo, Lynn I. The American South- as the Mormon Trail, the Old Span- west: Its Peoples and Cultures. New York: ish Trail’s reputation lay in a long Robert F. Kennedy observed, “Those Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1971, 469 pp. with maps and photos. pattern of traditional use. By the who dare to fail miserably can [6] Roberts, David. A Newer World: Kit 1850s three main roads through the achieve greatly. “ One cannot travel Carson, John Charles Frémont and the American Southwest would lead to east-west roads and major highways Claiming of the American West. New York: Simon and Schuster, 2000, illustrated. California. Though these routes across the United States without [7] Jackson, Donald and Mary Lee Spence, followed well-worn Indian trails or noticing proximity to the routes of eds. The Expeditions of John Charles old Spanish roads, known to a few Frémont’s explorations. In state after Frémont, Volume 1, Travels from 1838 to 1844. Urbana: University of Illinois Press, adventuresome mountain man, each state Frémont’s fame remains indel- 1970, 854 pp. with drawings and maps.

18 Spring 2000 An Artist on the Old Spanish Trail: George D. Brewerton

By Jourdan Houston

He was energetic, often anxious, Taos, Brewerton presented New Robert W. Weir (1803-1889) at the with an air some saw as supercilious. York’s elite with a view of the town. U.S. Military Academy at West He was tall for the time—nearly six Point. Brewerton’s father, Henry, feet—and, in 1848, still quite young. Brewerton had barely returned to the was a career officer, a West Point Douglas Brewerton had not yet east in 1853 when his paintings alumnus, and superintendent of the entered his ‘twenties’ when he made evoked attention. As early as Febru- school from 1845 to 1852. Douglas his first and only trip across the Old ary, the Home Journal, published in Brewerton had been born in New- Spanish Trail, a journey that forged New York by the poet and editor port, Rhode Island, home to his his future and remained the pinnacle Nathaniel P. Willis, wrote of a mother’s forebears, who included the of his past. Southwestern landscape by “G. D. miniaturist Edward G. Malbone Brewerton, late of the United States (1777-1807), her uncle. Douglas The significance of Brewerton’s Army.” The painting “...illustrates Brewerton would return to Newport travels across the Old Spanish Trail southwestern scenery with vivid for periods throughout his long life. has long been considered the record accuracy, and portrays some features he left in a series of articles he peculiar to that region, and such, His route to the Spanish Trail began penned for Harper’s New Monthly moreover, as are seldom represented in 1846 with the advent of the beginning in 1853. In them, the in paintings of this description. His Mexican War. Only 18, he joined impressionable lieutenant recounted truthfulness in delineating the misty the Seventh New York Volunteers, his six-week transit with Kit Carson mountain-tops, turbid streams, later known as the First Regiment of from Los Angeles to Carson’s home decaying forest-wood, and other New York Volunteers, under in Taos in 1848, followed by remarkable aspects of this portion of Jonathan D. Stevenson, a friend of Brewerton’s solo crossing eastbound our continent is worthy special and the Brewertons. The regimental on the Santa Fe Trail. The three close attention.” mission: to prevent “hostilities in articles were later compiled into a Mexico, probably in upper Califor- book, Overland With Kit Carson, re- In early 1853, one of the nation’s nia” and to establish a stronger issued in paperback in the 1990s. first illustrated weeklies reproduced American presence there. A second a Brewerton scene of the Sangre de lieutenant, Brewerton sailed around But Brewerton’s accounts of his Cristo mountains in New Mexico. Cape Horn to California, arriving in often harrowing Spanish Trail Several of his paintings soon hung at August of 1847. He ended up at the experience are only part of his the National Academy of Design in Presidio in Yerba Buena, “old dobie Southwestern legacy. In addition to New York. He would paint and sell barracks” that he and his 30 men his sketches and prints of the Carson his canvases of the Old Spanish Trail defended with two captured Mexican trip, he left a vast visual memoir in for decades, but the locales and the cannons which he described as an array of paintings, some of the significance of his works did not “prolific in cracks, but deficient on earliest canvases of the region. translate into the next century. Their bore.” Nearly a decade before Albert ties to New Mexico and Colorado in Bierstadt (1830-1902) first visited particular have only lately been In the spring of 1848, Brewerton was the Far West, Brewerton was evok- reclaimed. ordered to accompany Kit Carson ing praise in the New York press for from California east; Carson was his large paintings of California, George Douglas Brewerton (1828- carrying official messages to Wash- Colorado and New Mexico. De- 1901) was a competent artist, trained ington, including evidence of local cades before eastern artists colonized by the eminent historical painter Continued on page 22 Spring 2000 19 The Old Spanish Trai

“The year 1845...because of a single event is in fact one of the towering years in the story of Western Cartography. In that year John C. Frémont’s report of his journey to Oregon and California in 1843-44 was pub- lished. This report and the Frémont (Preuss) map which accompanied it, changed the entire picture of the West and made a lasting contribution to cartography.”

Carl I. Wheat Mapping the Transmissippi West Volume 2, p. 194

See Patricia Joy Richmond’s article, John Charles Frémont’s Second Expedition and the Old Spanish Trail, on pages 8-18 in this issue.

20 Spring il Section of The Frémont - Preuss Map of 1845

2000 21 Cochetopa Pass and entered the San Luis Valley, then still in New Mexico Territory. From there, they turned south to Taos, arriving in mid-June.

Brewerton detailed the rigors of the journey, including snows, raging rivers, submerged saddles and munitions, and encounters with unfriendly Indians at both the begin- ning and end of the trip. His bond with Carson, who probably saved his life at least once, was enduring. After spending time in the Carson household and recovering from a bout of flu, Brewerton left for his Mississippi posting via the Santa Fe Trail, sketching and taking notes as he went. He would spend four more years as a soldier.

By the beginning of 1853, however, Brewerton was a civilian in New York City, where he was rapidly recognized as “that talented and peculiar artist.” The description suited Brewerton throughout his life, although one could add “poet” and “historian” and “journalist” as well as “minister” and “lawyer,” to the phrase. Brewerton wrote several books and published many, many poems.

His paintings of the Southwest were not the first seen by easterners; several artists, mostly on govern- mental expeditions, had preceded George Douglas Brewerton him. But his oils of the region were By Mathew Brady among the first landscapes to be Credit: Library of Congress presented in the academic mode, reflective of the more formal, highly- finished style drawn from Robert ing several of John Frémont’s Weir’s European training. Size, in Continued from page 19 expeditioners. They left May 4, particular, characterizes these early gold. Brewerton, now an Army 1848, and followed the Old Spanish Brewerton landscapes of California regular, had been assigned to a new Trail to Utah, where they skirted the and the Southwest: the canvases are post with the First Regular Infantry Wasatch Mountains and entered often large for the time. Only a in Mississippi. present-day Colorado east of Moab. handful of these canvases has been Traversing the north branch of the located 150 years later; one—a self- The men traveled on mules, accom- Trail, they probably followed the portrait in a likely California land- panied by two dozen hands, includ- Gunnison River, crossed 10,032-foot scape dated 1856—measures nearly

22 Spring 2000 Print from the Illustrated News (NY), March 19, 1853. Title: Prairie Scene Near The Rocky Mountains. “By George D. Brewster” [It is the Mora, in New Mexico territory, by Brewerton.] Citation: Private collection.

four by six feet. Prairie Scene Near the Rocky Providence, along with his View in Mountains and Gorge in the the Wah Satch Mts., From an origi- Brewerton’s paintings of scenes Rockies: Storm Brewing—appeared nal Sketch. A Southwestern scene along the Old Spanish Trail enjoyed in New York at the National Acad- was sent to nation’s first world’s fair, wide public display for nearly two emy of the Arts of Design in 1854. at the octagonal iron and glass decades. A small sampling of his Prairie Scene—which depicts part Crystal Palace in New York in 1853. output shows the breadth of his now of the Sangre de Cristo range—was hard-to-find early Western work. exhibited again that year at the Brewerton, skilled also in using Two oils of New Mexico Territory— Rhode Island Art Association in pastels, sent a variety of them to the Spring 2000 23 Brewerton’s Self-Portrait in a Western Landscape. Oil on Canvas. 45 inches x 60 inches. Private Collection. [See Detail on page 26.]

Cosmopolitan Art Association in General Rufus Saxton, but never roughly thirty by forty-four inches: Sandusky, Ohio, in 1858 and 1859; enlisted as a regular.) The Brooklyn ¡ Crossing the Rocky Mountains the association disseminated the Art Association hung his western (1854) hangs today at the artist’s works all over the nation— works into the mid-1870s, and Corcoran Gallery of Art in from Natchez, Mississippi, to Au- Boston auction-goers purchased Washington, D.C. It depicts the gusta, Georgia. The pastels included them over the years, also. A scene Mora and the Sangre de Cristo such scenes from his 1848 trip as from his Carson trip, Green River mountains in New Mexico, near Prairie on Fire; Rocky Mountain Falls—Rocky Mts., was hung at the where Fort Union was later built. Scenery; Scene on the Frontier, and Detroit Art Association exhibition in ¡ Gorge in the Rocky Mountains Surveying in New Mexico. In 1864, a 1876. (1854) is in the collection of the patron of Brewerton’s donated On Butler Institute in Youngstown, the Plains to the Metropolitan Despite Brewerton’s dedication to Ohio; it may picture the Sanitary Fair in New York, raising depicting the scenes of his youthful Gunnison River gorges visible to funds for the care of Union troops. journey, few of these Western works the Carson party. (Early in the Civil War, Brewerton have been located. Several among ¡ Jornada del Muerto (1853) is at had served briefly as a volunteer in those surviving, however, are on the Oakland (California) Mu- the Carolinas with his old friend, public display; each measures seum. The scene is the Mojave

24 Spring 2000 Desert, be- Harper’s New tween Bitter Monthly Magazine, Spring and Vol. 8 (April 1854), Resting Spring 577-596. [3] “In in California, The Buffalo Coun- near contem- try,” Harper’s New porary Aqua Monthly Magazine, de Tomaso and Vol. 25 (September Archilette. 1862), 447-460. This is a 2. George Douglas haunting, Brewerton, Over- geometric land with Kit desert scene. Carson: A Narra- tive of the Old In a private collec- Spanish Trail in ’48 tion, Self-Portrait (New York: Cow- in a Western ard-McCann Inc., Landscape shows 1930) and Overland the artist camping With Kit Carson: A by a large river in Narrative of the Old mountainous Spanish Trail in ’48 terrain, probably Detail with initialed blanket and Brewerton from Self-Portrait ( Lincoln, Neb.: in California. The in a Western Landscape. University of largest of the [Opposite page] Nebraska, 1993).. located Western 3. Home Journal, paintings, this February 19, 1853, measures forty-five by sixty inches. divorced him. Brewerton wrote an p. 3. The artist painted his initials on his elaborate two-volume history of the 4. Brewerton’s dates have been vari- blanket and carved them in a tree; he State of Washington, where he sold ously given as 1820, 1827 and 1828. left his initials on a tree trunk in the real estate in the later 1880s, painted, His death certificate, gravestone, Corcoran Gallery prairie oil, also. and sent poems to the Tacoma press. pension application and a marriage In this self-portrait, Brewerton wears certificate indicate a birth date of 1828. his favorite red buckskin jacket, Kit Carson, long Brewerton’s friend 5. George Douglas Brewerton, Argonaut which he describes in his accounts. and hero, died in 1868. Douglas Memories (San Francisco, Frank Brewerton died of pneumonia at Eastman & Co., 1887), pp. 18 and 29. Besides the proliferation of paintings Fordham, N.Y., in January of 1901, 6. Home Journal, October 29, 1853, of the Old Spanish Trail, Brewerton more than 50 years after their jour- p. 3. produced probably thousands of ney together. But Brewerton’s ties to 7. Paul C. Mills, Archive of California other works in both oil and pastel. the Old Spanish Trail had never Art, Oakland Museum of California, He visited Kansas during the fight- paled; their days on the road, he Oakland, Cal. ing in the mid-1850s, writing a book once wrote the scout, had been 8. Brewerton writes of his carving about his visit. He supposedly among the happiest of his life. initials during his trip with Carson, qualified for the bar in Kansas; in those of a “noble-hearted woman...a 1859, he was ordained as a Baptist Endnotes: fancy of sweet sixteen” in a “gigantic minister, practicing for a few years pine.” in upstate New York both before and 1. The articles written and illustrated by 9. G. Douglas Brewerton, The War In after the Civil War. He lived in Brewerton were titled [1] “A Ride With Kansas, A Rough Trip to the Border Brooklyn, in Newport, in Nebraska Kit Carson Through the Great American Among New Homes and Strange People and in Tacoma, Washington, and Desert and the Rocky Mountains,” (New York: Derby & Jackson, 1856), returned occasionally to California. Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, Vol. p.124. He had almost as many wives as 7 (August 1853), 306-334, [2] “Inci- 10. Obituary of George D. Brewerton, residences – three; two of them dents of Travel in New Mexico,” Brooklyn Eagle, February 1, 1901.

Spring 2000 25 valley, including a possible route Captain Gunnison’s Pacific over Poncha Pass, the expedition chose a route over Cochetopa Pass, Railroad Survey arriving near the present site of Gunnison, Colorado on September 5.

By William L. Chenoweth Following the route of today’s U.S. Highway 50, the heavy wagons of the Gunnison expedition experi- In March 1853, Congress appropri- surgeon geologist, F. Creutzfeldt, enced much difficulty crossing the ated $150,000 for surveys to ascer- botanist, and J. A. Snyder, assistant valleys of the Lake Fork and Cebolla tain the most practical and economi- topographer. Charles Taplin was the Creek (Cimarron River). Much cal route for a railroad from the wagon master and the soldiers were cutting and filling was required to Mississippi River to the Pacific under the command of Brevet make a passable road for the wag- Ocean. Secretary of War, Jefferson Captain R.M. Morris. Sixteen of the ons. Beckwith [2] would later write, Davis, was to use personnel of the wagons were each pulled by six “it is by far the most difficult and Corps of Topographical Engineers, mules. An ambulance was drawn by expensive section upon the route for and other persons, as deemed neces- two horses that were replaced by the construction of a road.” While sary, to make the surveys. Captain four mules when they reached the descending into the Uncompahgre John Williams Gunnison was picked mountains. A carriage for the instru- River valley, via Cedar Creek, to survey a route along the 38th ments was pulled by four mules. Beckwith [3] recorded “the Salt and parallel. Gunnison was selected over Abajo Peaks were pointed out to us. John Charles Frémont much to the The expedition left Westport, Mis- The former is directly upon the displeasure of his father-in-law, souri on June 24, 1853 and followed noted Spanish trail leading from Senator Thomas Hart Benton. The the Arkansas River into Colorado California to Abiquiu, New Mexico, expedition was specifically ordered Territory. Mistaking the Apishapa and is a favorite resort for the Utah to survey a route through the Colo- River for the Huerfano River, the and Navajo Indians for trade”. rado Rockies, via the Huerfano and expedition followed the Apishapa Cochetopa Rivers over the Conti- upstream for some 20 miles before One September 17, the expedition nental Divide, then westward toward heading west. The Cucharas River forded the Grand (Gunnison) River Utah Territory and The Great Salt was crossed and the Huerfano River near “Roubideau’s old trading fort, Lake. Due to Gunnison’s untimely was located near the landmark of now entirely fallen to ruins.”[4] The death, the second in command, First Huerfano Butte. The Huerfano River night of September 18, the expedi- Lieutenant Edward G. Beckwith, was then followed into the Sangre de tion camped on a creek the Indians Third Artillery, wrote the report of Christo Range. Fort Massachusetts, told Gunnison was called Kah-nah the expedition, using Gunnison’s on the west side of the range, was (Kannah). This was a favored camp- journal [1]. reached on August 20, 1853. While ing site on the North Branch due to in the vicinity of the Fort, Gunnison abundant wood, grass and clear The Gunnison expedition was quite sent Lieutenants Beckwith and water. Here, Leroux and some men large. Besides Gunnison and Baker to Taos, New Mexico to left the expedition to show the Beckwith, there were five scientists, obtain the services of a guide, members who accompanied him “the a wagon master, 18 wagons, team- Antoine Leroux. best road to the Spanish trail.”[5] sters, employees and 32 mounted riflemen. Richard H. Kern, artist and After leaving the Fort, the expedition After leaving the campsite on topographer prepared maps of the followed the North Branch of the Kannah Creek, the expedition had expedition’s route. After Kern’s Old Spanish Trail up the San Luis some difficulty locating a crossing of death, astronomer Sheppard Valley passing west of the “Sandy the Colorado River, which Gunnison Holmans completed the maps. Other Hills” (The Great Sand Dunes). called the Nah-un-kah-rea or Blue scientists included Jacob H. Schiel, After exploring the north end of the River. Some local Indians showed 26 Spring 2000 the expedition a crossing which is Wash, the expedition left the trail The next morning on October 26, now believed to be about one mile and headed north toward the White 1853, Captain Gunnison, Mr. Kern, west of the 32 Road bridge near (Price) River. After turning to the Mr. Creutzfeld, William Potter, a Clifton, Colorado. After crossing the southwest Gunnison rejoined the guide, John Bellows, an employee, river, the expedition traveled along Spanish Trail, on October 10, at and Privates Caulfield, Liptrott and the north bank following today’s Huntington Creek in the Castle Merhteens were killed at their U.S. Highway 50. Valley. In this valley Beckwith [6] campsite by Paiute Indians. After recorded “The Spanish Trail, though the massacre, the expedition traveled Near the present town of Mack, but seldom used of late years, is still to Salt Lake City, where Beckwith Colorado, and without a guide, very distinct where the soil washes prepared a report to Congress. Gunnison did not take the main trail but slightly. On some such spaces to the southwest, down The Gunnison Rabbit Valley, but expedition, although continued westerly tragically cut short, along the Uintah did provide the U.S. segment of the North Congress with a Branch. The expedition brief description of turned south down a the topography of drainage (Coal Draw) Colorado and eastern and reached the Utah and the prob- Westwater area on the lems faced by the Grand (Colorado) River construction of a on September 22, trans-continental where they rested for railroad across the three days. The Rocky Mountains. Westwater area, called The expedition was Bitter Water by the first to prepare Gunnison, was a well- maps showing the Sketch of the Green River Crossing of the Old Spanish Trail known camping spot on topography along By Richard Kern of the Gunnison Expedition. the North Branch, with portions of the North plenty of grass, wood, Book Cliffs on the Skyline Branch of the Old and water. Leroux and Drawing courtesy of the U.S. Geological Survey Spanish Trail in three companions rejoined the today we counted from fourteen to Colorado, as well as sections of the expedition at Westwater and then twenty parallel trails, of the ordinary main trail in eastern Utah. returned to New Mexico. size of Indian trails or horse-paths on a way of barely fifty feet in width.” Endnotes: Instead of following the main trail The expedition continued to follow southwesterly for several miles the Old Spanish Trail across the [1] Edward G. Beckwith, Report of before heading west, the Gunnison Wasatch Plateau and into the Salina Exploration of a Route for the Pacifica expedition headed west out of the Canyon. Gunnison left the trail at Railroad Near the 38th and 39th Paral- Westwater area. After reaching the the Sawtooth Narrows in the Canyon lels of Latitude: U. S. Pacific Railroad foot of the Book Cliffs the expedi- and near Salina, Utah turned north Explorations- 33 rd Congress- 1st tion then turned to the southwest down the valley of the Sevier River, Session, House Document 129 (Wash- locating the “noted Spanish trail” on on October 17. ington DC: A O P Nickelson Printer, September 29, some 20 miles south- 1855). east of the Green River crossing. The expedition continued down the [2] Ibid., p. 95. They followed the trail to the cross- Sevier River. On October 25, [3] Ibid., p. 55. ing that was forded on October 1. Captain Gunnison, four men and [4] Ibid., p. 59. several soldiers left the main party to [5] Ibid., p. 63. West of Green River, at Lost Spring explore the area near Sevier Lake. [6] Ibid., p. 71. Spring 2000 27 A military expedition which has been referred to on occasion, but which is usually either ignored or Marcy’s Ordeal Along the North grossly underrated, was led by a Captain Randolph B. Marcy during the winter of 1857-58. Captain Branch of the Old Spanish Trail Marcy, a veteran of many years on the western frontier, was a member By Jack Nelson of the contingent of United States Army troops which had been ordered to Utah to aid in quelling the so- called “Mormon War” which was quite successful in their efforts, and mountain men and various other coming to a head in 1857-58. destroyed an alarming amount of civilian support personnel. supplies and equipment and almost Uneasiness had been brewing be- gutted Fort Bridger. For the U.S. Being assured that there would be tween members of the Mormon faith troops, already on short rations, and very little snow, even in the higher and the “gentiles” for several years, facing a long Wyoming winter, it passes, the expedition headed down which followed the brethren west to was decision time. Henry’s Fork to reach and ford the Utah in the early 1850s. There Green River. Here they found and appeared to be ample blame on each Situated where it was, Fort Bridger followed a trail downstream to reach side for the cause of the friction. was located on the Oregon Trail and the North Branch of the Old Spanish Rumors ran rampant throughout the a variant of the North Branch of the Trail, a route they would follow isolated settlements, and it was not Old Spanish Trail, an old trapper virtually the entire distance to New long before armed militia groups trail which came from the south. As Mexico. became common. An unfortunate the closest source of re-supply was situation arose at a well-known from a military outpost in New From the description given in the campsite along the main route of the Mexico, the commandant had little journal, it appears that the expedi- Old Spanish Trail. choice but to send a contingent of tion ascended Willow Creek Trail, relief troops in that direction for undoubtedly following Antoine This campsite, commonly referred to help. The story can best be told by Robidoux’s old route through the as “Mountain Meadows,” was the excerpts from the introduction and plateau of the Roan/Bookcliff Range scene of a massacre on or about body of the journal of the leader in northeastern Utah. The snow, at September 10, 1857, in which well Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th Infantry, this point, was approximately two over 100 emigrants on their way to United States Army. [1] “During the feet in depth. To add to their con- California were killed. We are not month of November, 1857, while our cerns, an Indian guide, hired to take here to discuss the right or wrong of troops were encamped at Fort them through the range of moun- this unfortunate situation, but we Bridger, in Utah Territory, I was tains, left one night taking all of his need to point out that there was ordered, with a command of forty pre-paid gifts and leaving the group extensive military action in the Utah enlisted men, to cross the mountains to its own devices. Going on in the area during the 1850s. by the most direct route into New morning, and to quote from the Mexico, and procure supplies. ... journal: “...Our track led us across Fort Bridger, located in the area of After a march of fifty-one days, they this elevated table-land, which we the Utah-Wyoming border, was the emerged from the forests, and found found terminating in a towering and focus of much of the unrest. Because themselves at Fort Massachusetts, in almost perpendicular cliff or bluff, the fort area was a gathering place New Mexico. …”[2] This simple bordering the valley of Grand River for United States troops coming in statement (as shortened), extracted [now the Colorado], and some two from the east, it was the scene of from the report to the Secretary of thousand feet above it. On reaching much action. Small groups of Mor- War in 1858, tells nothing of what this lofty escarpment, it did not seem mon guerrilla troops were often sent occurred between the first sentence possible that our mules could de- out to harass any approaching U.S. and the last. Marcy’s contingent left scend it, indeed, I had previously Army troops and disrupt them in any Fort Bridger on November 24, 1857 been told that there was but one way they could. The Mormons were with 40 army personnel, several place for fifty miles along this cliff

28 Spring 2000 where the declivity was practicable rivers [3] at present Grand Junction, group struggled on through the seven for animals, and this was at a point Colorado. This surmise is docu- to eight foot deep snows. Often on where the Indians had cut a narrow mented by a comment made the their hands and knees while breaking path along the face of the bluff. ... following year in the journal of a trail, progress was extremely slow. [3] It is very possible that the group Colonel Loring when he came With the wind blown, deep powder- had found the one practical escape through the same area with a contin- like snow concealing the few known route down Hay Canyon located on gent of fifty wagons and 300 men. trail markers, it was not long before the upper end of Westwater Canyon. Loring commented on seeing the the group became hopelessly lost. remains of Marcy’s camp near the Marcy had undoubtedly tried to They encamped in a tiny enclosed Crossing of the Grand, in the vicinity follow John Gunnison’s survey area, which fits the description of of Kannah Creek. [7] route; however, the deep snow had that near Antoine Robidoux’s in- covered or hidden the access route to scription at the mouth of Westwater After leaving the site of destroyed Cochetopa Pass. Creek Canyon. A map showing the Fort Uncompahgre, Marcy’s group route of Marcy’s expedition, drawn continued up the valley of the There is an interesting scientific in the 1860s, would lead one to Uncompahgre River, following the aside or general observation of the believe that the group came down well-established route. A large band curiosity of the mountain men: Tom either East or Bitter Creek Canyon. of Ute Indians were encamped in the Goodale, one of the civilians was [4] While not discounting the route vicinity of present day Montrose, breaking trail, when he called out to as drawn, and its other valuable Colorado. Captain Marcy entered the Captain to come see some historical information, the map scale into negotiations with them offering strange birds he had noticed. It leaves much to be desired to pre- to pay them to serve as guides seems that in spite of their other cisely locate sites unless correlated through the mountains ahead. No concerns, the group had made an with other documentation. [Fortu- amount of bribery, cajoling or insults ornithological discovery in a previ- nately, first hand information of the could sway the chief either to part ously unknown geographical area, physical layout of the area under with any of his ponies or to help they had located a small flock of discussion, aids in the interpretation them along their way. white tailed ptarmigans. Tom of Marcy’s Journal.] Goodale stated that in all his wan- Pushing onward, the group started to derings, he had only seen the small “On the 8th of December we struck encounter deeper snowdrifts and was white birds once before. Regardless, Grand River near the congruence of forced to cache any extraneous after carefully packing two of the its two principal branches, the equipment and personal items to birds for later scientific study, ‘Uncompadre’ and the ‘Bunkara’.” lighten their packs. Loring’s group Captain Marcy relates “... These [5] This was an interesting entry as it was to later record locating one of birds were the only glimpse of goes on to state “...We forded them, the caches, probably in the vicinity animal life we had met with, outside [?] but with great difficulty, as the of Cerro Summit. With snow depth of our own party, during the thirty water was deep and rapid, ... and becoming a problem, the pack and days that we were struggling through encamped at the base of the ‘Elk riding stock were forced to eat pine the deep snow.” [8] Mountain,’ near the remains of an needles. Game had been forced to old Indian trading establishment, lower elevations, and provisions It was shortly after the incident of which had formerly been occupied were slowly being exhausted. As sighting the ptarmigans that the by a man named Robedeau,”...[6] their pack stock died of starvation, group realized that they were going the group was forced to eat them, the in the wrong direction. A Mexican It is obvious that Marcy had lost a meat tough, bitter tasting and con- employee, Miguel Alona, ap- day in his memoirs at this point. The taining no nourishment. The Captain proached the Captain and informed “Uncompadre” [sic], the “ Elks” and mentions sprinkling gunpowder on him of their error. The area they Robidoux’s old fort were located his mule meat to make it more were in was an easy one to become near today’s Delta, Colorado. The palatable. confused in as it contains several ford at the “Bunkara” [sic], now side canyons and streams. They were called “The Crossing of the Grand,” Inching their way through the deep by now in the present day, upper was located above the confluence of drifts, sometimes camping in sight of Gunnison River watershed. It ap- the Gunnison and the Colorado their previous night’s campsites, the pears that Miguel had been through

Spring 2000 29 that country before. The Captain, eling along as best they could, the supplies and equipment were sent realizing that they were reaching the group waited eleven days before the back to Fort Bridger by a different end of their resources, informed relief party was sighted and the route. [11] * Miguel that if he could lead them out expedition knew they were saved. of their white maze, he would be Once the loaded relief wagons 1. Marcy, Randolph B. Thirty years of Army amply rewarded, if not, he would be arrived, great caution had to be Life on the Border (Harper & Brothers, hung. Miguel, much disturbed that exerted to see that the men did not Publishers, New York, 1866.) [Photocopy of his integrity was being questioned, overeat. Regardless of warnings, pages 198-22, in the author’s library.] See assured the Captain he would rather after a supper of filling soup, some also Hafen, LeRoy R. A Winter March die than lie. of the starving men pressured the Across the Rockies. in The Colorado Magazine, Vols. IV and V, Jan, 1927 to Oct. wagon guards to allow them to take 1928. Denver, CO. pp.7-13. This a much Marcy, realizing that he had no other more rations. Many gorged them- modified version of the entire trek from that choice, placed the lives of the entire selves only to later suffer severe appearing in Marcy’s work. The latter company into the judgment of stomach cramping resulting in the should be read carefully and compared with Miguel. The journal records: “... death of one of the men who had Marcy’s original, there are discrepancies. From this time the uncertainty of our survived the long trek. 2. Marcy, pps. 199-200. position, and the knowledge of the 3. Ibid., 202. fact that if we failed to strike the After the group rested and tried to 4. Macomb, J. N. Captain, Map of Explora- Cochetope Pass we must all inevita- recoup some of their strength for tions and Surveys in New Mexico and Utah, bly perish, gave me great anxiety, four days, they pressed on: they still 1860. (Geographical Institute, Baron F. W. and prevented me from sleeping for had a mission to accomplish. When Von Egloffstein, No, 154 Broadway, N. Y. several nights. There was not the the small, but intact, group entered 1864). slightest sign of a road, trail or 5. Marcy, p. 203. “Uncompadre” is the fort, Marcy reported: “Umcompahgre.” “Bunkara” is a phonetic footmark to guide us; ... but my corruption of a common Indian name for the noble soldiers struggled manfully “... As we approached the fort, one Colorado River. ahead, and not a single murmur or of the officers complimented us by 6. Ibid., p. 203. complaint ever was heard. ...” [9] saying he took us for a band of 7. “Colonel Loring’s Expedition Across prairie Indians. Not more than half Colorado in 1858.” The Colorado Maga- After struggling up the Razor Creek of the men had any caps, and but few zine, Vol. XXIII, No. 2, The State Historical variant of the North Branch, the Pass had any remains of trowsers below Society of Colorado, March, 1946, p. 64. was finally reached ten days later. the knees. Their feet were tied up 8. Marcy, p. 209. The group, living as they Suffering severe privation, frostbite, with mule hides, pieces of blankets, were on tough mule meat, preserved the two shoeless and virtual starvation, the coat-tails, etc. and certainly were birds for scientific purposes. They were later group guided by Miguel Alona, rough and ragged looking specimens identified as “Sagopus Leucurus.” While finally located and crossed over well known in Europe these birds were of United States soldiers... “ [10] rarely seen in the United States and then Cochetopa Pass, almost a full month only in the Rocky Mountains north of 540 after fording at the “Crossing of the Marcy’s “march” may well be Latitude according to the journal’s notes. Grand.” Their troubles were still not recorded as a truism for the old 9. Ibid. p. 212. Captain Marcy is even today over, they were without supplies and adage: “The cowards never started , to be commended for his outstanding many miles lay between them and and the weak ones never got there .” leadership. He suffered right along with his Fort Massachusetts. The Mexican guide, Miguel Alona, men. has to considered one of the heroes 10. Ibid., p. 219 The author can attest to the After ascertaining that they had of the expedition. He was amply extreme weather conditions Marcy’s men located and crossed the Pass, Marcy rewarded with a sum of five hundred were subjected to. Minus 500 and deep sent a small relief crew on to the dollars, but it is recorded that he snows are very common during the winter Fort riding the strongest animals. promptly lost the entire sum gam- months. The remaining group struggled along 11. Hafen, A Winter Rescue...., pp. 12-13. bling. The entire mission should go *Authors note: Much of the above data is down the trail, dropping in elevation, into military annals as comparable to found in an unpublished document presently until they reached an area along the sufferings endured by George at the publishers. Its tentative title is Saguache Creek where the grass had Washington’s troops at Valley Forge. “Forgotten Pathfinders.” Along the North melted out of the snow and the still Not forgetting the purpose of the Branch of the Old Spanish Trail by Jack surviving animals could feed. Trav- mission, several wagon loads of Nelson.

30 Spring 2000 count of themselves in a series of Fort Jurupa, Robidoux Rancho skirmishes from 1843 to the early 1850’s. With the arrival of a small A Military Presence at the Post on the band of soldiers, the civilians bowed out and thereafter apparently little Santa Ana River was accomplished to prevent peri- odic incursions. Although a number By Dr. R. Bruce Harley of expeditions were sent out against the Indians, negative results were the Editor’s Note: Fort Jurupa and Agua Mansa are direct consequences of immigra- usual case. The detachment, when at tion from Abiquiú over the Old Spanish Trail. Chino in 1851, did not participate in Due to the continuing danger from town Rubidoux. The adobe hacienda the pursuit of the Irving Gang; this Indian raids in San Bernardino no longer stands, having been bull- assignment fell to a company of U.S. Valley after California became a dozed down after World War II to pro- dragoons then encamped on the east U.S. territory, forts--both locally and vide space for a shopping center. bank of the Los Angeles River. federally sponsored--were erected at Buildings at the nearby military com- several locations. San Bernardino pound included the barracks for un- The names of the soldiers and their built one shortly after the Mormons married soldiers, several cottages for dependents can be derived from the had arrived in 1851. Chino had a married personnel, a barn for storage first federal census of California in government post established in and some horses, and a small chapel. 1850. Shortly after the military’s 1850. This garrison later moved to Since over half of the troops were Irish arrival at Jurupa, the new county of Louis Robidoux’s rancho in 1852. Catholics, the pastor at Agua Mansa’s San Bernardino was established in newly-built San Salvador Church jour- 1853. This meant that no sooner had About two dozen infantry troops neyed to Jurupa once a month to say the detachment settled on Los were stationed there for two years, mass, hear confessions and baptize, Angeles County land than the new and a small garrison stayed until etc. as needed. The chapel was swept boundary placed them on San Ber- after the end of the Civil War. The away in the 1862 flood. nardino County land. This area actual site of “Fort Jurupa” (it was eventually became Riverside County referred to officially as “the post on Major Horace Bell, whose self- land in 1893, but because of an the Santa Ana River”) has not been assignment in Southern California ambling boundary line, Chino precisely determined. However, it included visiting the frontier posts, remained in San Bernardino County. was probably near the left an interesting description of life Wilson-Robidoux grist mill in at Fort Jurupa as follows: Captain A tally of the Jurupa assignees today’s town of Rubidoux, for the Lovell (the commander) was a shows a total of 23 officers and mill was located at the intersection sedate, methodical, sober kind of enlisted men, four wives, one family of Fort Drive and Molino Way. This officer who seemed perfectly content without a mother, six children, and location is no longer on the to sit in his elegant quarters, issue one general laborer. Half of the riverbank at that point since the river orders to his little army ... of adults were from the East Coast, has changed its course over the well-fed, clean shaved, although 13 were born in Ireland, years, especially after the Great white-cotton-gloved, nicely dressed, one in England and one in Sweden. Flood of 1862 which nearly de- lazy, fat fellows, who were seem- The size of the Irish contingent can stroyed the communities of Agua ingly happy and content on the $8 be explained as the result of the Mansa/La Placita and also did per month.... They all, from Captain potato famine of 1848 in Ireland and considerable damage to Robidoux’s to Corporal, seemed resigned to a the subsequent migration of many rancho. life of well-fed indolence. families to America. Military service would speed up naturalization for The location of the Army barracks and Prior to the detachment’s arrival, citizenship. other buildings was about one block Indian raiders were dealt with by from the Wilson-Robidoux adobe situ- Agua Mansa’s leader, Lorenzo An alphabetical listing of all the 34 ated at today’s intersection of Mission Trujillo and his four sons along with people at this Army outpost, given Blvd. and Rubidoux Blvd. (formerly men on Benjamin Wilson’s payroll. on the next page, shows the break- named Bloomington Blvd.) in down- These vigilantes gave a good ac- down of the census data. Where the

Spring 2000 31 soldiers eventually settled after their side of the Confederacy. Second Lt. Major Horace Bell, Reminiscences of a discharge is not known. One can Smith had a reputation as a “ladies’ Ranger, or Early Times in Southern Califor- surmise that some of the troops man” from romancing senoritas of nia, reprint, 1927. the Jurupa neighborhood; but, unlike John Brown, Jr. & James Boyd, History settled in California, although not in of San Bernardino and Riverside Counties, the Jurupa area. Cornelius Jensen’s Robidoux and other Anglos, did not Vol. 1, 1922 census of Jurupa Township in 1856 marry one, instead he too answered Maurice H. & Marco R. Newmark, and the federal census of 1860 do the call to return to Virginia and Census of the City and County of Los not contain names which correlate to fight on the Confederate side. Angeles, California, for the Year 1850, the detachment’s names in 1850. 1929. BIBLIOGRAPHY: Jack Nelson, “Louis Robidoux: California Pioneer,” University of Redlands, master’s Captain Lovell, being from South thesis, 1940. Carolina, became a Major-General George & Helen Beattie, Heritage of the Tom Patterson, Landmarks of Riverside, Valley: San Bernardino’s First Century 1962. in the Civil War, although on the 2nd ed., 1951.

1850 Federal Census, County of Los Angeles, U.S. Army Barracks, Chino/Jurupa

Name Age Rank Birthplace Christopher L. Lovell 31 Capt., Infantry South Carolina Sarah A. Lovell 22 wife Connecticut Nelson H. Lovell 2 son California James W. Schureman 30 1 st Lieut., Infantry New Jersey Caleb Smith 25 2nd Lieut., Infantry Virginia James T. Overstreet 24 Surgeon South Carolina Hiram V. Bogart 37 Soldier New York Edwin V. Bogart 8 son Pennsylvania Homer Bogart 6 son Pennsylvania Emma Ann Bogart 4 daughter Pennsylvania Hugh Bums 28 Soldier Ireland George W. Cole 29 Soldier Maryland Enoch Cook 33 Soldier Massachusetts Bowers Danforth 40 Soldier Massachusetts James Dempsey 37 Soldier Ireland Mary Dempsey 25 wife Ireland Charles J. Fox 25 Soldier Ireland John Gigology 34 Soldier Ireland Margaret Gigology 30 wife Ireland Mary Gigology 8 daughter New York James Gigology 2 son New York Samuel Hains 37 Soldier England Laurence B. Harris 31 Soldier Vermont William J. Henning 25 Soldier Ireland Franklin Hoff 21 Soldier Pennsylvania John A. Jackson 25 Soldier Ireland William G. Lee 25 Soldier Ireland Rosa Lee 22 wife Ireland James Macanally 30 Soldier Ireland James Maguire 28 Soldier Ireland Thomas Maddigan 25 Soldier Ireland William Stewart 25 Soldier Ireland Laurence Strobal 30 Soldier Sweden Jesus Moreno 30 Laborer Mexico -- It is noted that no ranks are given for the enlisted troops; with the number assigned, there must have been at least one sergeant and two corporals. The U.S. Army History Center has little data on Fort Jurupa.

32 Spring 2000 A Letter Concerning the Location of the Ute Crossing of the Colorado River

Contributed by Steven K. Madsen

[The following is a transcription of an important document that locates the Ute Crossing of the Colorado River in the vicinity of the Elk [La Sal] Mountains, near present Moab, Utah. The letter was written in Salt Lake City, on July 15, 1876, by BrighamYoung and Daniel H. Wells. It is addressed to Latter-day Saint missionaries “encamped on the Little Colorado.” Paragraph two of the letter announces the intention of the L.D.S. leaders to send an exploring expedition to find a better supply road leading south to the Little Colorado River. The proposed road would follow one of two routes: 1). The western leg of the “old Spanish Trail which passed a little north of Panguitch [Utah].” 2). The eastern leg of the Spanish Trail which the 1855 Elk Mountain Mission party followed via Green River ford and the “Ute Crossing on the Old Trail which led from California to Santa Fe.”]:

Salt Lake City, U.T. called to labor may be crowned better road than the one now traveled July 15, 1876 with abundant success. We are by way of Lee’s crossing at the Big reliably informed that there are a Colorado to your camps. It is presum- To Elders Smith, Lake, Ballinger[,] few in some of the camps whose able that a good road can be found by Allen and the Brethren encamped on mouths are full of murmuring, and taking the old Spanish Trail which the Little Colorado [River]. some whose hearts incline to passed a little north of Panguitch [Bear apostasy. We want none such to Valley Junction], or by a more north- Dear Brethren — We were much remain with you, lest they poison erly route from Salina through Salt pleased to hear the good reports of the camp with the leaven of their Creek [Salina Canyon] eastward. One your progress, which were made to ill-feeling. We desire that the or both of these roads would cross us by Bro’s Wells, Snow and settlements in the Little Colorado Green river at the ford passed by the Brigham Jr. We did not imagine that be built up to the Lord in righ- brethren who some years ago went on a you would not meet with difficulties teousness, wherein an example mission to the Elk [La Sal] Mountains and perplexities, such are the heri- will be set to the surrounding [at Moab], which is called the Ute tage of all who labor to spread the tribes of the Lamanites, [a Book of Crossing on the Old Trail which led curtains of Zion. Nor is it to be Mormon term that refers to from California to Santa Fe. From supposed but that you will have to American Indians] and indeed to whence the road would turn more to make many experiments, some of all others of the way the Lord will the Southward to some point where it which may prove failures, until you build up Zion. The selfishness would be practicable to cross the become acquainted with the and individuality that have charac- Grand [Colorado] and afterwards the pecularities [sic] of the soil, the terized the labors of some of our San Juan rivers, the latter if possible, climate and other surroundings. brethren should not find a place not far east of the longitude of your Nevertheless we thank the Lord that with those called to this mission. camps. One of the principal reasons all is as well with you as it is, and why we desire to find some different we pray that your efforts to accom- We contemplate sending out an road from that at present traveled, is plish the purposes of God in the exploring expedition very shortly, that we may have one that will be direction in which you are now whose business it will be to find a easier for the stock and sheep to travel

Spring 2000 33 over, where they can have water and far as their limited comprehensions desire to build up the settlement they feed. And if it should be possible for [sic] admit, have an understanding form under the family order and you to spare a few men from their of the importance of the step they are being southerners think they would pressing labors, we should be taking. It must clearly be taught to prosper best in a southern clime. We pleased to have them take a trip them that when they become mem- are also watching with much interest North from your settlements to the bers of the church they must stop the progress made on the railtoads San Juan to mark out the most their waring [sic] and fighting, and [sic] now in course of construction acceptable road between the two live at peace with all men, white or in southern Colorado, with the hope points and thus hasten the comple- red, that they must change a life of that by next spring they will be tion of the purposes of the explora- idleness to one of usefulness, and sufficiently advanced toward your tion. that they must entirely cease from settlements to warrant us in bringing gambling, stealing and all other the emigration from Europe by that Owing to the great depreciation in vices to which the Indian races are route, with a view to strengthening the price of wool all over the country addicted. We also earnestly hope your present settlements and forming we do not deem it advisable for you that you on the other hand will give new ones. to purchase wool to send to this city them encouragement, help and for sale this present season. It now instruction they need to perform and We hope to hear from you often that only fetches twelve and a half cents improve the habit of their lives, and we may be acquainted with your per lb[.] cash in this market, at that your helping hands will be progress, labors and prospects as which price you will perceive it will extended to aid them in becoming well as of the success of the mis- not return you the original cost and good and useful citizens of the sions to the Zuni and other the transportation. kingdom of the Father, whose set Lamanites in your neighborhood, as time to favor Israel we trust is nigh tidings thereof reach you from time The saw mill we will load up at any at hand. to time. time that will suit you, and if you will send us word when your teams Elder Henry G. Boyle who has been May God grant you the wisdom of will be at the Colorado crossing to laboring with much success in his spirit that you may never be at a meet it we will have it forwarded. Prairie Co. Arkansas, during the past loss to know his will, nor of the We think in view of the difficulties winter is expecting next spring to means you should take to accom- of transferring some of the more lead a company direct from that state plish it is the prayer of bulky portions of the machinery, that to settle somewhere in your neigh- the same wagons that carry it from borhood either in the fertile valleys St. George had better take it right of New Mexico, or near the head Your Brethren in the Gospel, through to your camps whilst the waters of one of the branches of the men and teams can return if desired Little Colorado. The members of the Brigham Young First Presidency to St. George. church in Arkansas desire to settle of the Church near you for various reasons, Daniel H. Wells of Jesus Christ We request that in all your conversa- amongst others it will be more of Latter-day tions and associations with the economical than for them to sell Saints. Lamanites you treat them with their teams and farming implements kindness and present before them an and spend the proceeds on railroad example which they can imitate with fares, and be again compelled to Source: Lot Smith Papers, Type- propriety and mutual advantage. purchase on their arrival, while by script, Ms. 4, Manuscripts Division, When any of them present them- this move they can bring their teams Special Collections, Marriott Li- selves for baptism, we desire that &c. with them, and thus be prepared brary, University of Utah, Salt Lake you should instruct them in the to commence the cultivation of the City. principles of the gospel until they, as soil on their arrival. They also

34 Spring 2000 Into and Out of Los Angeles on the Spanish Trail By Lou McCombs

This material is the property of and was copyrighted by the author and may not be reproduced without his written permission.

This is the first in a series of articles Trail? I’ve been a bike tourist for expansion saga. written by McCombs on his adven- over thirty years, and for the past tures traveling the Old Spanish several years, have led cross-country Following my first ride, I decided to Trail from Los Angeles to Santa Fé. tours for a well-known bicycle write a bicycle guide to the Spanish touring company. By the time you Trail, but soon realized that such a I took my first trip over the Spanish read this, I’ll have again led a tour guide would be equally applicable to Trail between Los Angeles, CA, and across the southwest. Needless to doing it other ways too, including by Santa Fe, NM, in 1993. It was the say, I suppose, I like touring by four-wheeler, horse, mule or on foot. culmination of lots of time spent in bicycle. As for the Trail, I ran across There’s no best way to tour the Spanish Trail. I’ve been working on that concept on and off ever since, and touring portions of the trail by bike and in the “Beast,” my 1977 Ford four-wheel drive truck when I have the time. Someday that guide may come to fruition.

Early on, I decided that there were a number of really interesting national parks and monuments, state parks and other nearby historic sites that would make this tour even more exciting. So, there are alternate roads that, while close, sometimes lead away from the Trail, but the route I describe in the nascent guide still takes you over 300+ miles of dirt roads and Jeep paths that closely South Entrance to the Los Angeles Historic Park parallel the route used by New Photo courtesy of the Editor Mexican mule caravans and pioneer dusty library archives poring over word of it when researching some- wagons. In general my directions maps, books and magazine articles. thing else. It piqued my interest then closely follow the route described in I made the trip on a bicycle. It was and now. And, after all, it was the the Hafen’s book, “The Old Spanish a rewarding experience and encour- first commercial and emigrant road Trail: Santa Fe to Los Angeles” and aged me to spend more time on the across the southwest. I thought: this Crampton and Madsen’s, “In Search Trail. would be a great trip for people who of the Old Spanish Trail.” As a want to experience an important part matter of personal choice the route is Why a bike and why the Spanish of the great American westward described west to east.

Spring 2000 35 More recently, I joined the OSTA. That pastoral topography is now esting cross-section of modern Los Through some ongoing discussions, gone—replaced by an intricate maze Angeles. My advice is that Sunday is I asked to share my experience on of streets, high-rise buildings, shop- a good day to start the tour in order the Trail with other members via the ping centers and housing projects. The to beat much of the otherwise miser- medium of Spanish Traces. Such an cart roads and trails have been paved able L.A. traffic found during the endeavor requires much more space over and swapped for traffic jams on regular workweek. than is available in one issue, so I busy freeways. However, it’s still pos- proposed to write a series of how-to- sible to closely follow the path of the From the Historic Park, head east on follow the Spanish Trail articles. early caravans across the valley. Of Macy to Mission Boulevard, then Since I hope to keep each section to course, doing so requires some imagi- follow Mission, Valley Boulevard, a manageable number of words, and nation. And while history’s ebb and and Alhambra Avenue to Mission if the editors don’t give up, there’ll flow has replaced the old trails with San Gabriel. The mission, founded be six more of these. the exigencies of modern city plan- in 1771 and recently restored, is the third California The adventure begins mission established at in downtown Los the direction of Padre Angeles at El Pueblo Junipero Serra. de Los Angeles Historic Park, near the From the mission, take intersection of Main Las Tunas to Arrow and Macy Streets. Highway. Turn north Things are much on Euclid to the inter- different now than section of Foothill they were when the Road (Old Route 66) first Santa Fe caravan where there is a Ma- arrived in 1829. Then, donna of the Trail the pueblo was sur- monument on the rounded by orchards, northwest corner that vineyards and small describes the story of farms tended by less early pioneers. Route than 2500 residents. 66, often called the For as far as the eye “Mother Road” since it could see, the area McCombs’ Schwinn Bicycle and Trailer was the first paved road from Cajon Pass to Photo courtesy of the Author across the U.S., linked the sea was a grassy, Chicago, IL, to Santa shrub covered plain cut by swift ning, there’s still much to see and do Monica, CA. Best described by John flowing rivers, streams and a small along the route into and out of L.A. Steinbeck in “The Grapes of Wrath,” hills. A network of trails led to it was the exodus route for many remote haciendas and well-used On the Trail the caravans en route to mid-westem Americans fleeing dust river crossings. At Mission San and from Santa Fe went in a more or bowl conditions and looking for jobs Gabriel, just a few miles east, padres less straight line between Cajon in the far west during the 1930’s. and Indian acolytes tended large Pass, first to San Gabriel mission herds of cattle and horses which and then on to Los Angeles pueblo Follow Foothill to Etiwanda Avenue freely roamed the plain. Ranchos at before spreading out across southern in Rancho Cucamonga, turn left to Cucamonga and San Bemardino California to trade their goods. The Summit Avenue and follow Summit guarded the Cajon Pass against roads herein described do much the to I-15. Just before the freeway, turn depredations by Indian and outlaw same. Along the way are museums, left onto Lyttle Creek Road. Follow horse thieves. surviving ranch houses, historic it to DeVore Road and Glen Helen monuments, Route 66 and an inter- Regional Park, the general area of 36 Spring 2000 what in Trail days was Sycamore Canyon. In a few miles turn left on gic trip back to the days when the Grove camp. Near the park entrance Summit Valley Road. This leads to good guys all wore white hats. are historic plaques that identify the the railroad tracks and a 4-mile grove as a camping place on the Old section of good gravel road. This in Maps: You don’t need a briefcase Spanish Trail and briefly discuss the turn becomes Santa Fe Avenue near full to take the tour, but the follow- Mormon Battalion. The battalion the airport. At the first overpass ing are essential. The first two are was formed in 1846 to help construct (Main Street) wind your way up, really necessary for negotiating the a wagon road across the southwest over and down onto Hesperia Road. congested L.A. and San Berdoo during the Mexican War. Upon Follow it all the way into old town streets. The L.A. guide also has mustering out, some members were Victorville. For cyclists: Hesperia some good suggestions about inter- the first to take a wagon over the has recently been widened and esting places to visit. OST along the route that would later • AAA Guide to Metropolitan Los become the Mormon, and later still, Angeles the Los Angeles-Salt Lake Road. • AAA San Bernardino County • AAA Guide to Indian Country North of DeVore, take the old high- • AAA Las Vegas Area Guide way, a continuation of Route 66. It • Utah Travel Council South- parallels I-15 on the west. Not many western, Northeastern and people now drive the road, but it Southeastern guides closely follows the Spanish Trail • Santa Fe City map through Cajon Creek Canyon. For more info about the city and During gold rush days, forty-niners nearby high desert communities such panned for gold along the creek. as Victorville, contact the Los Today, many modern day prospec- Angeles Convention and Visitors tors continue to try their luck. It’s Bureau, 685 So. Figueroa St., Los not unusual to run across people Angeles, CA 90017, (213) 689-8822. panning or dredging for gold along the creek.

Route 66 eventually ends at an entrance to I-15. Head north to the About the Author: McCombs tells us SR 138 offramp and exit the free- that following his retirement, he took way. Turn immediately right onto up leading long distance bicycle tours. Frontage Road. At the dead end is He now lives in Utah. McCombs another Trail monument at the emphasizes that the Trail wanders mouth of Crowder Canyon. For the through some very tough countryside, so there is some risk involved in mule trains, this canyon was simply Mormon/Salt Lake Road- touring the route. Make sure your the upper narrows. The monument Los Angeles Road Monument vehicle or bike is in good repair, describes the canyon as the route of At Crowder Canyon above I-15 always carry lots of water and let the Mormon Road/Old Spanish Photo courtesy of the Author people know where you’re going to be Trail. The canyon is now part of the when you’re in the outback. California Trail hiking and eques- resurfaced which makes for a much trian system. more pleasant ride. This is the first in a series of seven To continue on the Trail, return to Just a note: While you’re in articles written by McCombs on SR 138 and turn right. This will take Victorville, make sure you take time his adventures traveling the Old you across east Cajon Pass by way to visit the Roy Rogers/Dale Evans Spanish Trail. Next: Across a of historic Brown’s Toll Road and Museum. For those of us who grew Hostile Desert to Las Vegas, NV the modern railroad into Summit up in the 40’s and 50’s, it’s a nostal- Spring 2000 37 Book Reviews Sights Once Seen: Daguerreotyping successfully played the role of a Frémont’s Last Expedition through detective. First, since no compre- the Rockies. By Robert Shlaer, hensive report of the expedition had A Newer World: Kit Carson, John (Museum of New Mexico Press, 2000, retail been produced and since the original C. Frémont, and the Claiming of price $45, but it will be available to OSTA images were destroyed, he had to the American West. By David conference attendees at a discount.) find engravers’ renditions of images. Roberts. (New York: Simon & Schuster, In a coast-to-coast search, Shlaer 2000, 320 pp., illustrations, map, index, Old Spanish Trail buffs will not want was ultimately successful in finding $25) to miss Sights Once Seen. This 34 images that he believes were account of John Charles Frémont’s derived from Carvalho’s daguerreo- This is a book that will stir some fifth, and last, expedition in the types. Second, after finding the controversy, and force the reader to Rockies in 1853-54 notes the images, Shlaer had to find the sites make some judgments about the two expedition’s association with the from which the photos were taken. people and era that the author has Spanish Trail. Crossing Colorado Dealing with problems of reversed chosen to examine. Probably, experi- and entering Utah, the expedition images, mislabeled images, and enced writer David Roberts could route included a significant section sometimes confusing reports of ask for no more than to challenge his of the North Branch of OST, and locations, geographic names, and expedition routing, Shlaer spent four readers. later intersected, more than once, the main route of OST. These associa- years seeking out the sites. He also photographed many scenes for John C. Frémont and Kit Carson had tions are documented in Sights Once Seen. which no expedition images exist, much to do with the promotion and based on participants’ journals and settlement of the Southwest and Robert Shlaer, one of a small num- notes. Rocky Mountain regions. Roberts ber of contemporary daguerreo- examines their stories in relation to typists working today, has not only Shlaer’s resulting book serves as a each other and their involvement in demonstrated his mastery of the art, catalog for a companion exhibition America’s expansion in the decades but has made a significant contribu- of his daguerreotype images, which of the 1840s-1860s. Perhaps his tion to the history of Western expedi- is now at the Palace of the Gover- “Epilogue” should be read first; but, tions. Working in the field, Shlaer nors History Museum in Santa Fe. then, that might be “cheating.” has recreated many of the lost But this book is far more than a daguerreotype photographs taken show catalog. Shlaer has written an elegant series of essays that serve as Having researched the documents almost 150 years ago by Solomon Nunes Carvalho to document book chapters. In four short chap- and visited many areas under discus- ters, he encapsulates the history of sion, Roberts takes the reader along Fremont’s survey of a proposed route for a transcontinental railroad. Western exploration and the Frémont with him in a fast paced, well writ- Fifth Expedition. In four other short ten story, Not everyone is going to Frémont had planned a first in chapters he discusses early expedi- agree with his conclusions or his United States history: to comprehen- tionary daguerreotypy and description of the people and events. sively document his expedition with Carvalho’s use of the process, as There is glory and adventure here as daguerreotype photography, using a well as his own experiences in well as tragedy for those people who process that had been developed modern daguerreotypy. Shlaer already called this land home. about 14 years earlier, and to publish successfully explains the daguerreo- an expedition report containing type process for the layman, without This is a recommended volume. One images derived from the photos. the technical photographic jargon could argue with the author’s failure Unfortunately for history, no report that causes many non-photographers to glaze over. He dramatically to provide more information on was ever produced, and sadly the more than 300 daguerreotype plates emphasizes the enormous difficulties sources used, particularly after he that faced Carvalho (and to a lesser criticized some who wrote before (except for perhaps one, discussed in the book) along with later Mathew degree, Shlaer) in producing quality him for just this “sin,” but that is a Brady photos of the daguerreotype images. small matter. images were destroyed in a New York warehouse fire in 1881. Following these eight chapters are Reviewed by Duane A. Smith 192 engraving images, daguerreo- Durango, Colorado To recreate the images, Shlaer type images, and modern photos

38 Spring 2000 comparing images derived from reviewer has one complaint: mu- where I was struck by two things: Carvalho images and expedition seum and academic press books like 1) The big empty area in that part of members’ reports. They show the this should always include a compre- the southwest traversed by the Old route from Westport, Kansas Terri- hensive index. Regrettably, this Spanish Trail, and tory to the site near current-day book has none. I noted a couple of 2) How several of the National Fremont, Utah, where the belea- minor editorial errors: Charles F. Historic Trails have branches, and guered expedition members, nearly Lummis’ name is spelled “Loomis,” not just one trail. For example, the dead from starvation, exhaustion, and in one place the name of Santa Fe Trail has two branches were forced to cache their equip- Frémont’s physician, Dr. Ebers, going into Santa Fe, one through ment. Cached, and never recovered, comes out as “Ober.” (A good index Colorado, and one through Okla- was Carvalho’s daguerreotype would have helped catch these homa; and the California Trail has equipment. Frémont insisted that errors.) These minor quibbles take more than five branches going into the 300 plus daguerreotype plates nothing away from an outstanding California. (about 25 pounds of material) ex- book. posed by Carvalho be carried on Having satisfied my curiosity on two until the rescue of the group. A final tribute to Shlaer’s approach issues relating to the Old Spanish is merited. The sites photographed Trail, I then proceeded to explore the While much has been written of are ultimately based on Shlaer’s best book. The first chapter is a good Frémont, both good and bad, Car- judgment of locations where introduction to the 12 National valho is a little-known, but clearly Carvalho produced images. Some- Historic Trails, except that I would heroic, figure in a chapter of Western times these sites are unarguably have liked to see more on the criteria history. He was a Sephardic Jew clear, but at other times Shlaer’s used to select a National Historic from Baltimore with no experience decisions could be questioned. In Trail. Then each of the trails is in coping with the wilds of the West. the latter cases, Shlaer is very careful covered in a separate chapter. First, With only about two weeks notice, to note the ambiguity, and to give a the facts and figures regarding the he equipped himself with daguerreo- fair and balanced set of “pros and location of the trail and logistical type apparatus and accessories that cons” regarding his judgments. information for contacting or travel- allowed him to successfully photo- Reviewed by Willard Lewis ing to the trail is provided. Then a graph an unforgiving landscape in Santa Fe, New Mexico remarkably detailed history of the temperatures as low as 30 degrees trail is presented. Following the below zero, at elevations sometimes detailed history is a description of exceeding 10,000 feet, occasionally America’s National Historic Trails. “The Trail Today.” Points of interest standing in snow up to his waist, and By Kathleen Ann Cordes. (University along the trail are described, along with limited facilities for protecting of Oklahoma Press, 1999, Norman, Okla- with a nice large-scale map of the against dust, moisture, and glare. He homa, 384 pp., Photography and illustra- trail. Several of the chapters include encountered prairie fires, buffalo tions, maps, appendix, index. $19.95) biographical sketches, such as Lewis stampedes, and hostile Indians. and Clark, Bill Cody, and the Mor- Interestingly, like many others led by The twelve American National mon Tabernacle Choir. Frémont (sometimes rashly) into Historic Trails, which are found in perilous situations, he developed a 28 of the 50 states, range from the The only problem I had with this fierce loyalty to Frémont, and later famous (The Lewis and Clark Trail) book is the format. The book is only actively promoted Frémont’s bid for to the infamous (The Trail of Tears). 8.5 x 5.5 inches in size, with pages the presidency. Fortunately for us, The stories they tell range from early and pages of small print with no he left his own report of this expedi- exploration history (The Juan break. Even if it is intended as a tion in an interesting book, Incidents Bautista de Anza Trail in California) field guide, in my opinion the sub- of Travel and Adventure in the Far to recent civil rights history (Selma ject is too big for the size of the West; with Frémont’s Last Expedi- to Montgomery Trail). Kathleen book. I suggest that the next edition tion across the Rocky Mountains. Ann Cordes has put together a nicely be larger, with larger print, and with illustrated very informative book. more subheadings and larger and The book is beautifully done. It is more interspersed illustrations. For well-written and wonderfully infor- The first thing I did after skimming history buffs and trail buffs this book mative, and the images are of fine through the book and reading the is a must. quality. There are two good maps back cover was to look at the map of Reviewed by Nick Saines and an extensive bibliography. This America’s National Historic Trails, Las Vegas, Nevada

Spring 2000 39 Continued from page one to Spanish colonial history of the Museums are cooperating with William Workman (1799-1876): An Southwest. Three of his books have OSTA to present the conference. Englishman’s Place in the History of received awards, including the Other conference speakers include the American West. Workman lived Golden Spur Award by the Western Harold Steiner of Las Vegas, Ne- in Taos before immigrating over Writers of America and the C. L. vada, speaking on Taos to Los OST to California, where he became Sonnichsen Book Award. He is a Angeles: Corridors of History, and an important citizen. Clifton is the former Woodrow Wilson Fellow and Robert Shlaer, presenting an illus- hometown of the Workmans. a recipient of the Guggenheim trated lecture, Sights Once Seen: Fellowship. The Simmons keynote Daguerreotyping Frémont’s Last Three field trips will be offered will kick off a great series of OST Expedition through the Rockies. concurrently on June 11. The first presenters. Steiner is author of the new book, will focus on the Taos area; the The Old Spanish Trail Across the second on Santa Fe, with a visit to Another highlight of the day is an Mojave Desert, and is nominee for the Shlaer exhibit (where Shlaer will early-evening tour with light refresh- the presidency of OSTA. Shlaer is be available to answer questions) ments at the Hacienda de los Mar- curator of a new exhibition at the and other exhibits at the Palace of tinez, a living history museum oper- Palace of the Governors History the Governors; and the third will ated by the Kit Carson Historic Museum, and author of a Museum of visit Abiquiu, possible trail crossings Museums. The hacienda dates to New Mexico Press book carrying the of the Chama River, and (depending 1804, when Antonio Severino Mar- same title. Both men will be avail- on time and weather) Horse Lake, a tin (later changed to Martinez) able for booksigning, and the books camping place on OST. Both the moved from Abiquiu to Taos and will be available for purchase second and third tours will visit San began building. By the time of his (through cooperation with the Gabriel, the site of Oñate’s first death in 1827, the hacienda had Museum Press, the Shlaer book will settlement in New Mexico. grown to encompass 21 rooms be available at a 20% discount for enclosing two placitas. The family conference attendees—see book Registration materials and informa- and hacienda figure richly in the review in this issue). tion about accommodations will be history of Taos and the Southwest in mailed to you in mid-April. You are the 19th century. Adding a truly international flavor to urged to register and secure accom- the conference, John Sharpe, an modations as early as possible Both the Taos County Historical OSTA member from Clifton, because Taos is a major vacation Society and the Kit Carson Historic Cumbria, England, will speak on destination in June. SEE YOU IN TAOS JUNE 10-11, 2000!

Old Spanish Trail Association Nonprofit Org. P.O. Box 483 U.S. Postage Angel Fire, NM 87710 PAID Angel Fire, NM Permit No. 7

40 Spring 2000