TrueTexas REAL TEXAS STORIES BORN AND BRED For Love of the Lyric THE OLD QUArtER ACOUSTIC CAFE IN DOWNTOWN GALVESTON Text by ROGER WOOD m LISTENING ROOM Houston musician Jorge Palomarez performs at the Old Quarter Acoustic Cafe in Galveston. The 80-seat venue showcases singer- songwriters. PHOTO: Will van Overbeek JUne 2014 | texashighways.com 61 of entertainment on any given night is just par excellence.” The timeworn room seats about 80 Texas Longview people. Dimly bathed in the glow of Kennel Club neon signs, its walls display memora- Dog Show bilia that serve as a whimsical archive of Texas songwriting and local history: posters, photographs, paintings of peo- ple and psychedelic abstractions, a cou- ple of beat-up guitars, and a pair of mud- crusted red rubber boots that recalls the notorious 2008 hurricane—“IKE” in- scribed on one, “SUCKS” on the other. In the rear, there’s a basic, cash-only July 26th & 27th, 2014 wooden bar backed by a darker vintage wall unit that frames a large mirror. The limited selection of beer, wine, and soft drinks is a clue to patrons that the Old Quarter prioritizes listening. July 28 - August 3, 2014 The focal point, wedged into one front Great Texas Balloon corner, is the triangular stage, which Race & Balloon rarely holds more than two or three Race U.S. National musicians at a time. The long list of art- Championships 903.753.3281 • VisitLongviewTexas.com ists who have graced it includes the late 410 N. Center Street • Longview, Texas 75601 Townes Van Zandt, the legendary Fort Worth-born troubadour known for his brilliant songwriting and conspicuous hard living. Though he died in 1997 and performed here only twice, Van Zandt clearly reigns as patron saint of this establishment. His likeness on the walls—rendered in photographs, oil paintings, sketches, and silk-screened T-shirts—comprises the dominant mo- tif among the artifacts, imparting an al- MONG THE MANY GOOD REA- Images of the most shrine-like quality to the space. sons to visit downtown Galveston, late Townes However, as evidenced by the bounty one of the more obscure, but best, is Van Zandt of other posters, publicity photos, and a passion for song. As often as four on the walls snapshots on exhibit, numerous art- nights a week, savvy aficionados of comprise the ists of substance have contributed to a distinctive Lone Star State trou- dominant the legacy—from Guy Clark, Joe Ely, badour tradition trek to the Strand motif among Ray Wylie Hubbard, and the late Blaze Historic District. There, just around the artifacts, Foley to relatively younger talents such the corner from the majestic 1894 Grand Opera House, a quirky imparting an as Jesse Dayton, Ruthie Foster, and Alittle performance venue on 20th Street showcases talent and almost shrine- Gordy Quist. “All the great Texas writ- celebrates the history of the Texas singer-songwriter movement. like quality ers play there,” says Dayton, referenc- Operating at this site since 1996, the Old Quarter Acous- to the space. ing his revered elders. tic Cafe is, in the words of Houston radio host James “Blues Yet with open-mic sessions on Hound” Nagle, “one of the finest listening rooms in the state.” Wednesdays and Thursdays, the Old Situated on the ground floor of a three-story red brick building Quarter Acoustic Cafe is also a domain that dates to 1914, this haven for picker-poets provides a mod- where anonymous upstarts can learn est yet functional space for performers and audience. “Nothing and make themselves known. Citing pretentious about it, bare bones,” Nagle adds, “but the quality one who went on to become a national 62 texashighways.com | JUne 2014 PHOTO: Will van Overbeek JUne 2014 | texashighways.com 63 GRAPEVINETX nnual Blanco Lavender th A A SUMMER BURSTING WITH star, Dayton quips, “I met Hayes Carll of creativity and exchange. “We were Bell, of course, had a special rela- 0 Festival FAMILY FUN AT SUMMERBLAST. there before he could shave.” such outlaws then, being hippies,” Bell tionship with Van Zandt, too. In addi- 1 Despite his recording success and reflects, and the club’s countercultural tion to providing stages in Houston and June 13 - 15 2014 busy touring schedule, Carll still plays identity fostered new possibilities dur- in Galveston where Van Zandt per- Friday: noon - 6pm this little venue, most recently in Feb- ing changing times. The key, perhaps, formed, Bell also played bass with him Saturday: 9am - 6pm ruary. Carll keeps coming back to the was a booking policy that featured older for years. As evidenced in the docu- Old Quarter, he explains, because the African-American blues masters, such mentary films Be Here to Love Me: A Sunday: 10am - 4pm owner is “a personal friend and men- as Lightnin’ Hopkins and Juke Boy Film About Townes Van Zandt (2004) Lavender Market tor. He gave me a home when I needed Bonner, as well as youthful folk, coun- and Heartworn Highways (1981), the two one, taught me just enough to keep it be- try, and rock-inspired songsters, such were as close as brothers, on stage and Exceptional Vendors * Speaker’s tween the ditches, and helped me know as Jerry Jeff Walker, Guy Clark, and off. In fact, Bell personally inspired the Pavilion * Live Music * Local Beer & when to fold and when to go all in.” most famously, Townes Van Zandt. poignant and oft-recorded Van Zandt Wine * Texas Specialty Foods That man, the creator and care- In fact, fans worldwide know of Bell’s ode titled “Rex’s Blues.” taker of this songwriter’s sanctuary, is erstwhile music club as the setting Apart from his collaborations with Visit beautiful Blanco in the heart the amiable Rex (aka “Wrecks”) Bell, where Van Zandt produced his defini- Van Zandt, Bell’s credentials as a pro- founder and proprietor of not only the tive recording—the classic 1973 double fessional musician include intermittent of the Texas Hill Country. Galveston club but also its progeni- album Live at the Old Quarter, Houston, work from 1965 to 1980 as bassist with Free Tours of Local Lavender Farms tor—the original and now-legendary Texas. Others have learned of it more Lightnin’ Hopkins—including a storied Old Quarter in Houston. From 1965 recently via the prominent Americana 1979 gig at New York City’s Carnegie Free Event Parking & Shuttle through 1977, that former venue func- singer-songwriter Steve Earle, who often Hall. Moreover, in 1980, Bell played on AGED TO PERFECTION® tioned as home base for much of the recounts how he, at age 18, first met Van the Houston studio sessions for Happy Visit web-site for more Information Visit us at Bayou City’s singer-songwriter scene. Zandt there in 1972. Earle, who grew up Woman Blues, the first album of origi- www.blancolavenderfest.com www.GrapevineTexasUSA.com/Summer Located in an aged, two-story build- in San Antonio with an infamous wild nal material by Lucinda Williams— or call toll-free 1-800-457-6338. Blanco Chamber of Commerce . 830.833.5101 ing on the gritty east side of down- streak, bonded with Van Zandt and well before she became famous and Blanco Chamber of Commerce • 830.833.5101 town, the original Old Quarter seated became his protégé. Their relationship Time magazine declared her in 2001 to even fewer patrons than its Galves- inspired Earle’s 2009 Grammy Award- be “America’s best songwriter.” These Image courtesy of artist David Busch 20037_GCVB_TX_Highways_SB_June_2014_ad_v1.inddWHAT’CHA DOIN 4/2/14 2’ 7:39 PMton descendant, yet generated a nexus winning album Townes. days Bell still performs, as both singer JULY 4TH? and instrumentalist, in a duo with his wife or with his longtime partner in the Hemmer Ridge Mountain Boys, Mickey White. Upcoming Ever since Van Zandt’s untimely shows at the Old death on New Year’s Day 17 years ago, Quarter Acoustic Bell has regularly staged an anniver- Cafe include sary event at his Galveston Old Quar- Ramblin’ Jack ter. Though billed as a “wake,” it’s ac- Elliott on June 20; tually an open jam session celebrating Terri Hendrix and You’ll Love a Parade. the immortality of Van Zandt’s songs. Lloyd Maines on Anyone—professional or amateur—is June 21; Jimmie encouraged to bring an instrument and two-stepping Dale Gilmore and pay tribute by singing a composition Butch Hancock or two from the Van Zandt repertoire. on July 18; and Since its premiere in 1998, the annual Jesse Dayton gathering has triggered pilgrimages and John Evans among devoted fans. “People come from on July 26. all over,” says Bell. “The room will be Kick up your toes and do the summertime happy dance! packed, and I’ll have another 100 people It’s time to pack up the family, grab some tubes and head milling about outside.” to the cool, spring-fed San Marcos River. Relax, float and As he nears septuagenarian status, then shoot the falls. You’ll definitely want to stay a while. Bell remains committed to sustaining the Old Quarter Acoustic Cafe as long as VISITSEGUIN.COM | 800-580-7322 he can. There have been setbacks in re- /TourSanMarcos www.TourSanMarcos.com | 512.393.5930 cent years that threatened its survival, 64 texashighways.com | JUne 2014 PHOTO: Will van Overbeek JUne 2014 | texashighways.com 65 CAP SPEC— ADd .5 BLACK BOJulyRDER TO 4thAD & 5th AS SHOWN Parade Fireworks Mud Volleyball Tourney Street Dance Featuring Rick Trevino and Lost Immigrants Old Quarter Acoustic Cafe owner Rex Bell including the sudden death of his wife LeAnne in 2005 and the physical and www.bradytx.com psychological devastation wrought by Brady/McCulloch County Chamber of Commerce Hurricane Ike in 2008.