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Home , Embroidery stitch, Satin stitch, Stitch (textile arts)

and Embroidery Types - 1

Embroidery is a ‘ Art’ of a sewn decorative work of fabric in which artwork, designs, emblems, logo, letters etc are created by stitching strands of threads on to a layer of another material using hand or machine . Machine embroidery is commonly used for creative work on individual pieces and mass-produced clothing products. Embroidery is generally done on garment panels or directly on garments to decorate clothing and apparel but now with the new computer technology embroidery can be done on whole fabric rolls.

To achieve good quality embroidery from embroidery machine depends on Fig. 1 Bean Stitch expertise in basic hooping techniques, changing the needles, threading the machine, tensioning the machine and and basic routine maintenance.

1. Bean stitch (see fig. 1) is used for three stitches placed back and forth between two points. Primarily used for outlining work as it eliminates the need for repeatedly digitizing a single-ply running stitch outline and also provides a bolder stitch appearance than a run stitch and requires fewer stitches than a . Bean stitches are more pronounced than Running Stitches

2. Tatami stitch/Fill stitch/Geflect stitch is a series of running stitches commonly used to cover large areas with a flat look or appearance (like hair or water) with no stitching at top. Different fill stitch patterns can be created by varying the length, altering angle or repeating sequence of the stitches. Using Fill stitches can give more dimensions to a design.

1 square inch of “Fill” stitches at normal density with a stitch of 6mm = 1000 stitches. This is for a basic fill to cover an area with no stitching on top. 1 square inch of “Fill” stitches at normal density with a stitch of 4mm = 1500 stitches. This is for a basic “Fill” to cover an area that would have lettering or other stitching on top. The stitch length is shortened to prevent the stitches from pulling apart when the additional stitching on top.

3. Running stitch/Walk stitch is made when a single stitch is formed between two points and is also used as foundation of most ‘Underlay’ and ‘Fill’ stitches. It is used for fine detail, outlining and underlay. Areas that are 1mm or shorter in width are usually done with a running stitch.

Embroidery and Types - 2

4. Satin stitch/Column stitch/Steil stitch/Swiss embroidery/Blatt stitch is formed by closely arranged zigzag stitches lay down at any angle and with varying stitch lengths. A satin stitch is normally anywhere from 1.5 mm to 12 mm, however, the wider the satin stitch, the more susceptible they are to snagging and abrasion thus not generally recommended for children wear. Also used for lettering and outlining designs but for lettering, stitch width and stitch density are very important for quality. Corners should be sharp and crisp and not bulging. ‘Short’ stitches can be digitized to minimize bulging corners.

Stitch width (mm) No of stitches per inch 0.5-1.0 90-100 2.0-3.0 120-130 3.0-4.0 130-140 4.0-6.0 140-150 6.0-8.0 160-180

5. Underlay stitches are used as foundation in a design that is put down before the design stitches. These running stitches are very light density fill stitches placed in opposite direction that the final stitches will go. Underlay stitches provide stability to the and help to down piles, high wales or naps on fabrics so the design’s details don’t get lost and raise the design so that the fine detailing is not lost.

Glossary (A-G)

Some Frequently Used Terms

Appliqué is a use of fabric decoration or trimming from one piece of fabric and sewn onto one another fabric, usually with a satin stitch around the edge to add dimension and texture to a design. Appliqué greatly reduces the amount of embroidery stitches needed to fill the design area.

Backing/Stabilizer is a woven or non-woven support material used underneath the item or fabric material being embroidered to provide support and stability. Backing can be large enough to be hooped with the item being Appliqué embroidered or placed between the machine throat/needle plate and the hooped garment item. Nonwoven backing is available in various weights and types. Nonwoven backing is three basic types – Cut-away, Tear-away and Wash-away.

Bird-nesting is a collection of thread between the embroidered panel and the throat/needle plate, resembling a bird’s nest. It is caused by improper stitch formation. Its formation prevents free movement of goods and may be caused by inadequate tensioning of the top thread, machine not threaded properly, poor digitizing or flagging goods. Bird Nesting

Chenille/ Moss Stitch/Loop Piling is a form of embroidery in which a loop stitch is formed on the top side of the fabric. It is created by a machine that has been adjusted to form loops. This stitch type uses heavy of wool, cotton, acrylic and other fluffy yarns.

Cut away backing is a woven or non-woven material placed under the fabric being embroidered to add stability. Cutaway backing is typically used on less stable, stretchy fabrics such as knits.

Emblem/Crest/ Patch/Monogram are an embroidered design with a finished Emblem edge, commonly an insignia.

Fabric grin through/Gapping is where the fabric is seen through the embroidery design either in the middle of the or on the edge.

Finishing is a process performed after embroidery is complete on garment panels or garments. Finishing includes trimming loose threads, cutting or tearing away excess backing, removing topping, cleaning any stains, pressing or steaming to remove wrinkles or hoop marks etc.

Flagging is an up and down motion of the materials being embroidered resembling a waving flag. Flagging is often caused by the poorly adjusted Crest on a Polo Knit Shirt action and improper hooping/framing of goods. Flagging may result in poor design registration, poor stitch formation and bird-nesting.

Flat embroidery is embroidery that is cut in panels, patches or blocks and is framed in hoops on a flat surface above the embroidery machine’s hook assembly.

Fabric Grin Through Glossary (H-T)

Hoop/Frame is a holding device made from plastic, metal or wood that grips the fabric tightly between an inner and outer ring and attaches it to the machine’s pantograph. It ensures stability of the goods during the embroidery process.

Punching is conversion of artwork into a series of commands to be read by an embroidery machine’s computer. This word is derived from an earlier method in paper tapes or Jacquards punched with holes which controlled the movement of the pantograph. Even though paper tapes are rarely used now Embroidery machine Frame/Hoop but term ‘punching’ is still commonly used in embroidery industry even for computerized formats stored on disc.

Scaling is ability within one design program to enlarge or reduce a design. It can be done directly on embroidery machine. Most scaling is limited to 10 percent to 15 percent because the stitch count remains constant even though the size is increased or decreased.

Short Stitch is a digitizing technique that places shorter stitches in curves and corners to avoid an unnecessary bulky buildup of stitches. Embroidery due to poor Hooping

Stitch back is a function in embroidery machine that traces back through a design so that skipped stitches and thread breaks can be repaired by moving the needle back to origin point where the thread was broken and machine skipped the stitches.

Stitch density is the number of stitches used to give proper coverage of the pattern without creating a thick, hard area in the embroidery that may be uncomfortable while wearing.

SPM stands for Stitches per minute referring to the running speed of the embroidery machine. Typical embroidery machine speeds can vary but generally will be between 500 to 1000 SPM. Tackle Twill

Tackle twill is a fabric used to cut Letters or numbers from polyester or rayon twill fabric, commonly used for making emblems and monograms etc. Tackle Twill appliqués attached to a garment typically have an adhesive backing that tacks them in place and then these edges of the appliqués are then sewn to the garment with a .

Tear away backing is a non-woven material placed under the fabric being embroidered to add stability to the fabric and can easily be torn away after stitching due to needle penetrations. Typically used on more stable fabrics such as woven goods. It should tear properly. If it doesn’t tear easily enough, it may pull out some of the stitches or can leave an ugly, ragged edge. If the backing tears too easily, it may not provide enough support for the Tear Away Backing embroidery pattern.

Glossary (T-Z)

Tie-off stitches are small stitches, usually about 1 mm in length that “locks” the stitches in the fabric to prevent the stitch from unraveling when the thread is trimmed. They are important while making satin stitches as satin stitches have a tendency to unravel more easily than running or fill stitches.

Tie-in stitches are small stitches used at the beginning of a cycle, particularly on satin stitches to prevent the thread from unraveling or pulling out of the embroidery.

Topping/ is water soluble material hooped or placed on top of fabrics Tubular Embroidery on Cap with a surface texture, such as velour or terry, prior to embroidery. It provides a plastic like smooth surface so that the stitches can be laid down properly and prevents the wale or nap from interfering with proper stitch appearance. For non wash items nonwoven chemically treated topping is used which can disintegrate with the application of heat.

Top Thread is a sewn that shows on the top of the fabric.

Tubular embroidery is produced on a cylinder bed embroidery machine that allows tubular fabric or assembled garments to be placed around the hook assembly. This allows embroidering the front of a garment without sewing through the front and back of it.

Two Ply stitch is a double running stitch formed when the machine sew a complete running stitch area (from point A to B) and then comes back over Wash Away Backing the same area (from B to A) and stops where it started.

Wash away backing is a non-woven water soluble support material used underneath the fabric material being embroidered to provide support and stability. It is easily dissolved and washed away as soon as it is dipped in water. Commonly used during embroidery of knit garments.

3D Foam is used to add dimension to an embroidery pattern mostly used on caps. The 3D foam of desired thickness is placed on the topside of the pattern and stitched over with shortened stitches to cut the foam and then the excessive foam is pulled away from the embroidery giving a 3D appearance. Effect due to 3D Foam

Trouble Shooting – Bird Nesting

Troubleshooting for Bird Nesting

Bird nesting is caused due to unbalanced tension, flagging, or a problem with the hook assembly.

For tension issue, check the thread path to insure the machine is threaded properly.

For flagging issue, be sure the fabric is framed tightly and there is not a significant gap between the hoop assembly and the sewing arm.

For hook assembly, either the hook positioning finger is mounted too close to the hook basket, or the hook basket does not allow the sewing hook to spin Bird Nesting freely. Embroidery Defects and Their Causes

Common Embroidery Defects