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1 2 appliqué basics

Appliqué is a fun way to add a little extra pizzazz to a project or to update an existing garment or home décor item. To get figure 1 you started, here are a few commonly3 used techniques for preparing and attaching appliqué. figure 2 3 Raw-Edge Method 3 This appliqué method is quick and easy, resulting in a raw-

edge finish. It’s great for creating an organic and slightly 3 4 frayed look with woven fabrics. It’s also a great method to use with felt, faux suede, and similar fabrics that don’t fray 4 4 at edges. You will need: Paper-backed fusible web (if the project calls for it or 4 you’d like to use it)  or basting glue (if you’re not using fusible web) figure 3 Craft/paper Fabric shears

 scissors figure 4 Pencil Handsewing needle, size 11 or 12 Sharp the shape in place around the edges, using Coordinating or embroidery floss (for handsewing) 4 a machine stitch, such as a , zigzag, or coordinating thread for machine sewing , , or other decorative stitch (refer  (optional) to your manual for assistance). Alterna- Remember that any time you’re transferring a template to tively, sew the appliqué in place using your favorite hand the wrong side of the fabric (or onto the paper side of the embroidery stitch, such as a blanket stitch, running stitch, fusible web) the final appliqué will be the reverse of the or . traced appliqué. Trace the template onto the paper side of the Freezer-Paper (or Template-Plastic) 1 paper-backed fusible web (or trace the template onto and Starch Method the wrong side of the fabric or as directed by the project This method creates a neat turned-under edge for the ap- instructions). pliqué. The starch gives a crisp edge that stays in place as Rough cut the shape from the fusible web, leaving a you stitch the appliqué to the background fabric. 2 margin of about ¼" (6 mm) around the shape (if you’re You will need: not using fusible web, simply cut the shape along the drawn Freezer-paper (or heat-resistant template plastic) lines). Following manufacturer’s instructions, adhere the Craft/paper scissors fusible web to the wrong side of the fabric and let it cool. Fabric shears Then, cut the shape along the drawn lines. Embroidery scissors Remove the paper backing and place the shape, right Spray starch 3 side up, onto the background fabric. Adhere the shape Small paintbrush to the background fabric as before (if you’re not using fusible Fabric-marking pen or ’s chalk web, use pins or basting glue to secure the shape in place on Handsewing needle, size 11 or 12 Sharp the background fabric). Lightweight cotton or silk thread Thimble (optional)

1 *interweavestitch.com appliqué basics

Layer two pieces of freezer paper, with the shiny side You will need: 1 of one piece the paper side of the second piece; Pins or basting glue press together with a hot dry iron. Trace your templates Fabric marking pen or tailor’s chalk onto the paper side of the freezer paper; if you have multiple Fabric shears shapes, leave at least ¼" (6 mm) between each. (If you’re us- Embroidery scissors ing template plastic, simply trace the shapes onto the plastic Handsewing needle, size 11 or 12 Sharp with a permanent marker.) Cut out each shape along the Lightweight cotton or silk thread traced lines with your craft/paper scissors. Thimble (optional) Press the shiny side of the freezer paper template to Trace the template onto the right side of the chosen 2 the wrong side of the chosen fabric, leaving at least 1 fabric, using a fabric marking pen or tailor’s chalk. Cut ½" (1.3 cm) between shapes. (If you’re using template plastic, out the shape a scant ¼" (6 mm) from the traced line. use a fabric marking pen or tailor’s chalk to trace the tem- Using the embroidery scissors, clip into the allow- plate onto the wrong side of the fabric.) Cut out each shape, 2 ance at any concave curves and points (you may also clip leaving scant ¼" (6 mm) seam allowances around each the convex curves if doing so will make it easier for you to fold (figure 1). (If you’re using template plastic, place the template under the neatly; figure 5). onto the wrong side of the cut shape, centering it to leave the or glue-baste the appliqué to the background fabric, ¼" [6 mm] seam allowances free.) 3 overlapping pieces as necessary or directed. (To glue- Using the embroidery scissors, clip into the seam baste, use small dots of glue on the wrong side of the appliqué, 3 allowance at any concave curves and points (clipping about ¼" [6 mm] from the drawn line, to secure the appliqué to almost to the template or drawn lines; figure 2). You may also the background fabric.) clip the convex curves if it will make it easier for you to fold Use the standard hand-appliqué stitch for a neat, under the seam allowance neatly. 4 nearly invisible finish. As you sew, use the needle to Spray a small amount of starch into the cap from the sweep under the seam allowance just ahead of your stitching 4 starch can. Use the paintbrush or a finger to brush (figure 6). Make sure the traced line isn’t visible. Note that starch onto the seam allowance, moistening the fabric but not where appliqués overlap, the lower piece does not need to be the freezer paper. sewn or turned under. Press the seam allowances over the freezer paper (or 5 template plastic), using the tip of the iron to wrap the 1 seam allowances closely around the template and pressing 1 until the starch is dry and the seam allowances are secure (figure 3). When pressing around convex curves, form small in the fabric with the iron as you press around the template to make a smooth curve. If the edges aren’t smooth, simply remoisten the seam allowances with starch, reshape, and press. To press points neatly, press the point first, then press the fabric on either side over it.

When the fabric has cooled, remove the template figure 5 6 (peel the freezer paper gently from the fabric), and press again to set the shape (figure 4). The paper template has enough “wax” to be used more than once. You’re ready 2 to stitch the appliqué. Use the standard hand-appliqué stitch for a neat, nearly invisible finish. Note that where appliqués 2 overlap, the lower piece does not need to be sewn.

Needle-Turn Method Requiring minimal preparation for a turned-under edge, this method starts with the appliqué edges left raw. You then turn the edges under as you stitch the appliqué in place.

figure 6

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