Svetlana Radavičienė, Milda Jucienė Influence of Threads on the Accuracy of Embroidery Dimensions

Kaunas University of Technology, Abstract Faculty of Design and Technologies, In the production of garments, embroidery carries out decorative, informative, data trans- Department of Clothing fer and other functions. The features of , density, filling type, area and other and Polymeric Products Technology, factors have a direct influence on embroidery quality. The objective of the paper was to Studentų g. 56, LT – 51424, Kaunas, Lithuania investigate the influence of embroidery threads on the accuracy of embroidery pattern di- E-mail.: [email protected]; [email protected] mensions. For the investigations, embroidery threads with a different linear density, fibre composition, structure, and purpose were selected. Test samples were embroidered by two different filling types, with an embroidery width of 7, 6, 4, 3 and 2 mm, in warp and weft directions and in the bias direction. In all the cases analysed, the width and area of the embroidery pattern was established to decrease the width and area of the digital design. The greatest elongation values were observed during the embroidery process in the bias direction of the fabric.

Key words: embroidery threads, embroidery process, embroidery pattern, .

n Introduction an influence on the slippage of at a ers of assembling fabrics, dynamic and [1 - 3]. Investigations showed that thermal loads have a direct influence on In the production of garments, embroi- the new weave factor, NPR (calculated changes in the mechanical properties of dery carries out decorative, informative, directly from the weave matrix), better threads of different fibre compo- data transfer and other functions. describes the influence of the weave on sition. The fibre composition of threads slippage than other known weave factors determines the different response of sew- The main and common embroidery de- (V. Milašius factor P or Ashenhurst fac- ing threads to an external impact [10 – fects are the following: shifting of the tor F) [4]. The smallest yarns slippage is 17]. embroidery portions compared to the shown by fabrics with small repeats and digital design, the compression of filling short interlacements of warp and weft The accurate dimensions of an embroi- along the stitch direction (Figure 1.a), the concavity or convexity of the em- made by the following weaves: plain, dery pattern are influenced by a stable broidery patterns, filling quality, i.e. vis- twill, and sateen, as well as by weaves of stitch. Changes in the stitch length have ible spaces between stitches, an uneven short interlacements (in general) in one been analysed during the sewing process. edge (Figure 1.b), the slippage of fabric of the systems [5]. Investigations have Friction forces occurring between the yarns at the sides of the embroidered ele- illustrated that the mechanical properties fabric and material of ment (Figure 1.c), defects affecting the of a fabric, and the formability, strength gears during transportation as well as the programme process ability during the and stability thereof may be changed by technical parameters and technical condi- embroidery process i.e. the responsive- employing different embroidery/stitch- tion of a sewing machine [18 - 21] were ness of embroidery equipment to short- ing patterns [6, 7]. established to influence the stable length en stitches, the concentration of many of the stitch. stitches in one place, the breaking of em- Fabric shrinkage after the sewing proc- broidery threads, cutting through of the ess may be affected by the relaxation Investigations have also illustrated that textile with a needle, etc. processes observed in threads, resulting interaction of the fabric and sewing in their shrinkage, thereby creasing the with sewing machine gears and Embroidery quality is influenced by the fabric [8, 9]. Investigations have dem- sewing machine parameters have a di- embroidery process speed, stitch density, onstrated that technological parameters rect influence on the occurrence of seam filling type, embroidery area, features of the sewing process such as the sew- puckering [22, 23]. In the embroidery of fabrics, lower and upper embroidery ing speed, thickness of the process, embroidery threads undergo threads, etc. The assembling of textiles used, fabric rigidity, the number of lay- deformations of multiple tensile, bend- into a system by the sewing and embroi- dery processes has some similarities. In

Digital design both cases threads are affected by factors Embroidery pattern b) of a similar character, i.e. the dynamic

load, bending, friction, abrasion, etc. Uneven edge The textile is anisotropic and deforma- Digital design of the embroidery pattern tion thereof under the impact of certain a) forces varies depending on the fibre com- position and mechanical properties of the fabric. The mismatch of embroidery Slippage of fabric yarns pattern dimensions can cause the - page of warp or weft threads affected by c) a force perpendicular to the direction of the embroidery pattern. It was found that Figure 1. Examples of embroidery defects: a) filling compression along the stitches, the weaving and finishing of fabrics have b) uneven edge of the embroidery pattern, c) slippage of fabric yarns.

92 Radavičienė S, Jucienė M. Influence of Embroidery Threads on the Accuracy of Embroidery Pattern Dimensions. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012; 20, 3(92): 92-97. ing and friction. Embroidery threads of different structure, different fibre com- Upper thread position and linear density feature differ- Embroidery width C ent mechanical properties. An analysis Fabric demonstrated that embroidery threads of different fibre composition experience different relaxation processes after the embroidery process, i.e. different values 1/3 C of residual elongation are observed [24]. tangle Lower thread

The occurrence of embroidery defects is Figure 2. Diagram of a portion of assembling textiles into a system by the embroidery influenced by properties of both embroi- process. dery threads and textiles such as surface texture, stretch, surface density, flexibil- ity, etc. [25]. A A

The influence of the properties of fabrics and sewing threads, caused by technolog- B ical parameters of the sewing machine, on seam quality and puckering is an is- sue widely investigated by researchers of various countries [8, 9, 16, 22]. The in- fluence of the stitching pattern direction, place and density on the deformation be- L B L haviour of fabrics has also been analysed [6]. However, reports exploring the em- broidery process and factors having an C C influence on embroidery quality are very few. The Russian scientist D. Chernenko Figure 3. Embroidery area formation diagram: a – filling type Z, b – filling type T, here, investigated the assembling of textiles by A – stitch length, B – distance between stitches, C – embroidery width, L – embroidery the embroidery process; however, no de- lentgh, legend: – embroidery contour; – , – needle tailed analysis of the influence of fabrics insertion place, – formation direction of embroidery stitches. and technological factors on embroidery quality has been carried out [24]. Re- in Figure 2. The system is made up of direction - 18.4 cm-1, and with same searchers of Alexandria University in- the following: fabric, upper embroidery linear density of warp and weft threads vestigated the behaviour of embroidery thread, and lower embroidery thread. An - 26.3 tex. articles in the process of wear in order to appropriate balance of the tension of em- optimise the embroidery area size, types broidery threads within a stitch (when a To carry out investigations, two different of threads and the type of the needle ac- lower thread occupies 1/3 to 2/3) elimi- types of filling threads of the embroidery cording to fabric thickness [26]. nates the possibility of the lower thread area were chosen: being visible on the front side of the em- 1. Z – where each stitch is formed from The assembling of textiles by the sew- broidery area. one edge of the embroidery pattern ing and embroidery processes is carried to another (Figure 3.a). In this case, out by employing the same type of a For analysis of the influence of embroi- embroidery width C tallies with stitch . However, the purpose of as- dery threads on the accuracy of em- length A. sembling, requirements for the quality broidery pattern dimensions, different 2. T – when a row of stitches is formed and properties of the final assembling are threads of various linear density, fibre from one edge of the embroidery pat- different. The analysis carried out dem- composition and structure were selected. tern to another . At the end of the row, onstrated that the embroidery process, For this purpose, embroidery threads a short stitch in the direction of em- despite being important and popular, has were grouped into upper and lower em- broidery is made in order to preserve not been widely investigated thus far. broidery threads. Along the length, the the rows of stitches parallel. Hereby upper and lower embroidery threads rows of stitches do not overlap (Fig- The aim of this paper is to explore the featured the same thickness and met the ure 3.b). influence of different embroidery threads quality requirements. The performances on the accuracy of embroidery pattern di- of the embroidery threads used for the in- For embroidery pattern filling types mensions. vestigations are listed in Table 1. Z and T, a width of the digital design C = 7, 6, 4, 3 and 2 mm and length thereof n For analysis, a plain weave fabric L = 60 mm were selected (Table 2). The Materials and methods with the following performances was se- digital design was generated by applying A diagram that illustrates the assem- lected: surface density - 150 g/m2, thick- the Wilcom ES (Embroidery Software) bling of textiles into a system by by ness - 0.32 mm, density in the warp di- 2006 Software Package. To carry out the embroidery process is presented rection - 19.9 cm-1, density in the weft the investigations, a Barudan BEVT –

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 3 (92) 93 Table 1. Performances of embroidery threads. embroidery pattern width, i.e. 21.4%, is demonstrated by embroidery with em- Linear Legend Raw material Purpose Composition broidery threads ET1, whereas in the density, tex weft and bias directions this value ranges ET1 100% PES Two-ply yarn, multifilament 30.2 around 18.6%, respectively. It should be 40% metallic, Combined, two-ply yarn, monofilament thread ET2 26.4 pointed out that in the embroidery process 60% CV and multifilament thread Upper thread with and viscose embroidery ET3 100% CV Two-ply yarn, multifilament 27.8 threads, the embroidery pattern contour ET4 100% 40.0 Two-ply yarn in the warp and weft directions is broader ET5 100% PES Lower thread 24.7 at the beginning and at the end compared to the middle portion (Figures 5.a, 5.b). Table 2. Plan of the experiment. Such behaviour could also be influenced by the shifting of fabric threads at the Embroidery Filling Digital design Direction Digital design width C, mm seam. Seam slippage is usually observed thread legend type length, mm in fabrics, particularly in plain weave Warp ET1 fabrics, twill weave fabrics, sateen, etc. Z Weft Former investigations have demonstrated ET2 Bias 7 6 4 3 2 60 that the slippage of fabric threads at the ET3 Warp seam is defined by the shifting of fabric T Weft threads due to the force applied perpen- ET4 Bias dicular to the seam [1]. Narrowing of the embroidery pattern contour in the bias direction is also observed not to be

Inequality of as great as in the warp and weft direc- embroidery length Embroidery length tions . Compared to the digital design width, the lowest narrowing value of the embroidery pattern width, i.e. 11.4%, is Embroidery width demonstrated by embroidery with metal- lised embroidery threads containing vis- cose ET2 and cotton embroidery threads ET4, with filling type Z, when C = 7 mm (Figure 5.a).

The analysis illustrated that embroi- dery with filling threads of type Tre- Figure 4. Diagram of the measure of geometrical performances (length and width) of the sults in greater narrowing values of the embroidery pattern. embroidery pattern width in the case of embroidery with polyester embroidery Z901CA Single head 9 needles auto- pattern area was measured by the Auto threads ET1, when C = 7 mm. The great- mated embroidery machine was used. Cad 2007 Software Package. An accurate est narrowing value of the embroidery shape of the area contour was obtained A sewing process speed of 700 stitch- pattern width in respect of the digital de- via manual marking-out. es per minute and stitch density sign width was observed for embroidery B = 0.42 mm were applied. Applying in the weft direction, i.e. 11.4%. In the a correctly balanced Averages of values of the research results warp direction, embroidery with viscose (Figure 2), 6 test samples were embroi- as well as variation factors fluctuating embroidery threads and cotton embroi- dered in the warp and weft directions and from 0.19 to 8.99% were computed. dery threads demonstrated the narrowing in the bias direction of 45°. value of the embroidery pattern width n Analysis of results to be 0.5 mm (7.1%), whereas embroi- The test samples were scanned by a Can- dery with metallised embroidery threads on PIXMA MP 140 scanner, at a resolu- An analysis of variation of the embroi- containing viscose showed a narrowing tion of 600 dpi, placing a ruler beside in dery pattern width illustrated that the value of the embroidery pattern width of order to measure the scanning scale. For embroidery pattern width decreases in 0.6 mm (8.6%) (Figure 5.b). editing images and measuring the geo- all cases. Embroidery with filling threads metrical performances (length and width) of type Z, when the embroidery width Such an uneven behaviour of embroidery of the embroidery pattern, the COREL C = 7 mm, showed that embroidery with threads could be influenced by different DRAW X5 Software Package was ap- upper polyester embroidery threads ET1 fibre compositions, structures and linear plied. The embroidery pattern length was in the warp and weft directions and in the densities. Former investigations have il- measured from the beginning to the end bias direction results in the greatest nar- lustrated that significant elastic elonga- of the embroidery pattern. The embroi- rowing value of the embroidery pattern tions (with a reversible nature) are typi- dery pattern width was measured at the width in respect of the digital design as cal of polyester embroidery threads ET1. beginning, at the end and every 5 mm compared to embroidery with the other Reversible deformation is characteristic from the point where the embroidery pat- threads analysed . In the warp direc- of polymeric bodies and has a relaxa- tern starts (Figure 4). The embroidery tion, the greatest narrowing value of the tion nature. Reversible deformation dis-

94 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 3 (92) appears gradually after the removal of external forces. Embroidery threads fea- 7.0 turing significant reversible elongation 6.5 will shrink after a certain time from em- ET1 broidery due to the relaxation processes 6.0 p a t e r n occurring in threads, thereby decreasing m 5.5 ET2 the area and width of the embroidery pat- 5.0 ET3 tern. It should be noted that the reversible w i d t h , 4.5 ET4 elongation of viscose embroidery threads 4.0 ET3 was not great, i.e. 3.2% [25]. E m b r o i d e y 3.5 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 It should also be pointed out that in most a) cases embroidery with filling types Z Embroidery pattern length, mm and T in the weft direction demonstrated the greatest narrowing values of the em- 7.0 broidery pattern width, which could be 6.5 influenced by the lower fabric density 6.0

observed in this direction. p a t e r n ET1

m 5.5 ET2 5.0 Embroidery with filling type Z shows ET3 that a decrease in the digital design width w i d t h , 4.5 ET4 leads, in many cases, to an increase in the 4.0 E m b r o i d e y percentage of the narrowing value of the 3.5 embroidery pattern (Figure 6). 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 b) Embroidery with filling type T, all em- Embroidery pattern length, mm broidery threads and all embroidery widths demonstrate lower narrowing val- Figure 5. Embroidery pattern width in the warp direction: a) with filling type Z, b) with ues of the embroidery pattern compared filling type T, when C= 7 mm. to embroidery with filling type Z. This situation may be explained by the course elongation values of the embroidery pat- with the programmed area was demon- of the embroidery type: in this case, a tern in all cases. The greatest elongation strated by the embroidery with polyester row consists of not one but a few stitch- values were observed for the embroidery embroidery threads. In some cases, the es, and a needle and thread are inserted in pattern embroidered in the bias direction present nonconformity amounted to 27%. the same place of the fabric repeatedly, of the fabric with threads ET1 and ET4 therefore the fabric is slightly extended featuring a greater linear density com- by the embroidery process. Thus, embroi- Hence, the analysis of results with re- pared to other embroidery threads. dery with filling type T results in a lower spect to the investigation of the influence narrowing value of the pattern compared of the properties of embroidery threads An analysis of the investigation results to embroidery with filling type Z. on the accuracy of embroidery pattern shows that embroidery with filling type dimensions has illustrated that assess- Z demonstrated in all cases a greater de- It should be noted that almost all cases ment of the influence of the properties crease in values of the embroidery pattern show an elongation of the embroidery of threads on final embroidery quality is pattern compared to the digital design. area in respect of the digital design area very important, as well as the correct se- The greatest elongation values of the em- compared to embroidery with the same lection and combination of the lower and broidery pattern were observed during threads, the same embroidery widths and the embroidery process in the bias direc- filling type T (Figure 8, see page 96). upper embroidery threads, forecasting tion of the fabric (Figures 7.a, 7.b, see the progress of the embroidery process, page 96). This fact may be related to the In this situation, the greatest noncon- and anticipation of embroidery article uneven mechanical properties of textiles formity of the embroidery pattern area behaviour after a certain time from the in different directions, i.e. the anisotropy . The anisotropy is determined by the structure of the textiles under considera- Digital design width, mm tion, the performances of threads, type of 0 weave, density and nature of deforma- -5 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 tion. Figure 6. Narrow- R² = 0.877 % ing of the embroi- e m b r o i d y -10 R² = 0.798 dery pattern during t h e -15 It should be pointed out that no signifi- embroidery with o f cant dependence of elongation values of threads ET2, fill- p a t e r n , -20 the embroidery pattern on the fibre com- ing type Z: ♦– in -25 the warp direction position of threads was observed. How- N a r o w i n g R² = 0.754 ● – in the weft di- -30 ever, embroidery in the bias direction rection, ▲ – in the of the fabric demonstrated the greatest bias direction.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 3 (92) 95 65 65 60 60 55 55 p a t e r n p a t e r n m m 50 50 45 45 l e n g t h , 40 l e n g t h , 40 35 35 E m b r o i d e y E m b r o i d e y 30 30 ET1 ET2 ET3 ET4 ET1 ET2 ET3 ET4 a) Embroidery thread b) Embroidery thread

Figure 7. Embroidery pattern length: a) with filling type T, when embroidery width C = 7 mm; b) with filling type Z, when embroidery width C = 7 mm, – in the warp direction , – in the weft direction, – in the bias direction/

420 420 390 390 2 360 2 360 p a t e r n p a t e r n ET1 m 330 ET1 m 330 ET2 300 ET2 300 a r e , a r e , ET3 270 ET3 270 ET4 E m b r o i d e y 240 E m b r o i d e y 240 ET4 210 210 Warp Weft Bias Warp Weft Bias Fabric direction Fabric direction a) b)

Figure 8. Variation in the embroidery pattern area during the embroidery of patterns types, when C = 7 mm: a – with filling threads of type Z, b – with filling threads of type T , – filling type Z, – filling type T.

embroidery as well as during final finish- threads. The correction of digital 7. Warrior NA, Rudd CD, Gardner SP. Ex- ing and usage. design dimensions considering the perimental Studies of Embroidery for changes in values of embroidery pat- the Local Reinforcement of Composites Structures: 1. Stress Concentrations. tern dimensions is advisable. n Conclusions Composites: Science and Technology 1999; 59, 14: 2125 – 2137. 1. In all the cases analysed, the embroi- Reference 8. Dobilaitė V, Jucienė M. The Influence dery pattern width decreases com- of Mechanical properties of Sewing pared to that of the digital design. 1. Bačkauskaitė D, Daukantienė V. Ten- Threads on Seam pucker. International Embroidery with polyester embroi- sional Behaviour of Seamed Fab- Journal of Clothing Science and Tech- dery threads demonstrates a greater rics. Book of Proceeding of the 4th In- nology 2006; 18, 5: 335 – 345. decrease in embroidery pattern width ternational Textile. In: Clothing & Design 9. Dobilaitė V, Petrauskas A. The Method th th values compared to embroidery with Conference, October 05 to 08 2008, of Seam Pucker Evaluation. Mate- Dubrovnik, Croatija, pp. 519 – 523. the other embroidery threads. rial Science (Medžiagotyra) 2002; 9, 1: 2. Malčiauskienė E, Milašius A, Laurec- 209 – 212. 2. In almost all cases, embroidery with kienė G, Milašius R. Influence of Weave 10. Rudolf A, Geršak J, Ujhelyiova A, Sfiligoj the embroidery threads selected into Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabric. Smole M. Study of PES Sewing Thread shows an elongation of the embroi- Materials Science (Medžiagotyra 2011; Properties. and Polymers 2007; dery pattern compared to the length of 17, 1: 47 – 51. 8, 2: 212 – 217. the digital design. The greater linear 3. Bačkauskaitė D, Daukantienė V. In- 11. Midha VK, Kothari VK, Chatopadhyay R, density of embroidery threads results vestigation of Wear Behaviour of Sewn Mukhopadhyay A. Effect of high-speed in a longer embroidery pattern. Assemblies of Viscose Linings with Dif- sewing on the tensile properties of sew- 3. The embroidery pattern area decreas- ferent Treatment. Materials Science ing threads at different stages of sewing. (Medžiagotyra). 2011; 17, 2: 155 – 159. International Journal of Clothing Science es compared to the digital design area. 4. Malčiauskienė E, Milašius A, Milašius and Technology 2009; 21, 4: 217 – 238. It should also be pointed out that em- R. Weave Factor for Seam Slippage 12. Geršak J. Rheological Properties of broidery with polyester embroidery Prediction of Unbalance Fabrics. Fibers Threads – Their Influence on Dinamic threads demonstrates greater decrease & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2011; 19, Loads in the Sewing Process. Interna- values. 4(87): 101 – 104. tional Journal of Clothing Science and 4. For embroidery, viscose embroidery 5. Frontczak-Wasiak I, Snycerski M, Cy- Technology 1995; 7: 71 – 80. threads are recommended as the non- bulska M. Influence of Woven Fabric’s 13. Sundresan G, Salhotra KR, Hari PK. conformity of the embroidery pattern Weave on Thread Slippage. Fibers & Strength Reduction in Sewing Threads dimensions with those of the digital Textiles in Eastern Europe. 2002; 10, During High Speed Sewing in Industrial 3(38): 43 – 46. Lockstitch Machine – Part I. Effect of design during embroidery with differ- 6. Bekampienė P, Domskienė J. Influence Thread and Fabric Properties. Interna- ent filling types and applying differ- of Stitching Pattern on Deformation Be- tional Journal of Clothing Science and ent embroidery widths demonstrates haviour of Woven Fabric during Form- Technology 1998; 10: 64 – 79. the lowest percentage compared to ing. Material Science (Medžiagotyra) 14. Ajiki I, Postle R. Viscoelastic properties embroidery with other embroidery 2010; 6, 3: 226 – 230. of Threads Before and After Sewing. In-

96 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 3 (92) ternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 2003; 15: 16 – 27. 15. Rudolf A, Geršak J. Influence of Sew- INSTITUTE OF BIOPOLYMERS ing Speed on the Changes of Mechani- AND CHEMICAL FIBRES cal Properties of Differently Twisted and Lubricated Threads During The Process of Sewing. Tekstil 2007; 56, 5: 271 – 277. LABORATORY OF BIODEGRADATION 16. Pogorelova M, Kamilatova O. The In- fluence of Deformation Pecularities of Sewing Threads on Seam Properties. The Laboratory of Biodegradation operates within the structure of the Tekhnologiya Tekstil’noy Promyshlen- Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres. It is a modern laboratory with nosti (Technology of Textile Industry), a certificate of accreditation according to Standard PN-EN/ISO/IEC-17025: State Technological University of Kos- 2005 (a quality system) bestowed by the Polish Accreditation Centre (PCA). troma, 2007; 304, 6: 19 – 22 (In Rus- The laboratory works at a global level and can cooperate with many institu- sian). tions that produce, process and investigate polymeric materials. Thanks to 17. Midha VK, Kothari VK, Chatopadhyay R, its modern equipment, the Laboratory of Biodegradation can maintain coop- Mukhopadhyay A. Studies on the eration with Polish and foreign research centers as well as manufacturers Changes in Tensile Properties of Sew- and be helpful in assessing the biodegradability of polymeric materials and ing Thread at Different Sewing Stages. textiles. Textile Research Journal 2009; 79 (13): 1155 – 1167. 18. Jucienė M, Vobolis J. Correlation be- The Laboratory of Biodegradation as- tween the Seam Stitch Length of the sesses the susceptibility of polymeric and Sewing Garment and Friction Forces. textile materials to biological degradation Material Science ( Medžiagotyra) 2007; caused by microorganisms occurring in the 13, 14: 74 – 78. natural environment (soil, compost and wa- 19. Jucienė M, Vobolis J. Investigation of ter medium). The testing of biodegradation the influence of defects of sewing ma- is carried out in oxygen using innovative chine V-belt drive on the stitch length. methods like respirometric testing with the Tekstil 2004; 53, 5: 219 – 225. continuous reading of the CO delivered. The laboratory’s modern MICRO- 20. Jucienė M, Vobolis J. Dependence of 2 OXYMAX RESPIROMETER is used for carrying out tests in accordance Stitch Length along the Seam on Exter- nal Friction Force Theoretical Anglysis. with International Standards. Materials Science (Medžiagotyra) 2009; 15, 3: 273 – 276. The methodology of biodegradability testing has been prepared on the 21. Vobolis J, Jucienė M, Punys J, basis of the following standards: Vaitkevičius V. Influence of Selected Ma- chine and Material Parameters on the n testing in aqueous medium: ’Determination of the ultimate aerobic Stitch Length and Its Irregularity. Fibers biodegrability of plastic materials and textiles in an aqueous medium. & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2003; 11, 3 A method of analysing the carbon dioxide evolved’ (PN-EN ISO 14 852: (42): 50 – 55. 2007, and PN-EN ISO 8192: 2007) 22. Dobilaitė V, Jucienė M. Influence of Sewing Machine Parameters on Seam n ’Determination of the degree of disinterga- Pucker. Tekstil 2007; 56, 5: 286 – 292. testing in compost medium: 23. Dobilaitė V, Jucienė M. Seam pucker tion of plastic materials and textiles under simulated composting condi- Indicators and Their Dependence upon tions in a laboratory-scale test. A method of determining the weight loss’ the Parameters of sewing machine. In- (PN-EN ISO 20 200: 2007, PN-EN ISO 14 045: 2005, and PN-EN ISO ternational Journal of Clothing Science 14 806: 2010) and Technology 2008; 20, 4: 231 – 239. 24. Chernenko DA. Systematization of n testing in soil medium: ’Determination of the degree of disintergation of design parameters for automated em- plastic materials and textiles under simulated soil conditions in a labora- broidery and modeling of deformation tory-scale test. A method of determining the weight loss” (PN-EN ISO 11 system of „fabric-embroidery”. Doctoral 266: Disertation, State Technological Univer- 1997, PN-EN ISO 11 721-1: 2002, and PN-EN ISO sity of Orel, Orel, 2006, p. 132. 25. Radavičienė S, Jucienė M. Investiga- 11 721-2: 2002). tion of Mechanical Properties of Em- broidery threads. In: 5th International The following methods are applied in the as- Textile, Clothing & Design Conference, sessment of biodegradation: gel chromatography AB 388 Dubrovnik, Croatija, 3 - 6 October 2010, (GPC), infrared spectroscopy (IR), thermogravimet- pp. 494 – 499. ric analysis (TGA) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). 26. El Gholmy S, Bondok N, El Geiheini A. Optimization of embroidery design on Contact: denim fabrics. In: 5th International Tex- tile, Clothing & Design Conference, Du- INSTITUTE OF BIOPOLYMERS AND CHEMICAL FIBRES brovnik, Croatija, 3 - 6 October 2010, pp. ul. M. Skłodowskiej-Curie 19/27, 90-570 Łódź, Poland 821 – 826. Agnieszka Gutowska Ph. D., tel. (+48 42) 638 03 31, e-mail: [email protected]

Received 25.02.2011 Reviewed 05.10.2011

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 3 (92) 97