Newsletter May 2016
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Jedediah and His Family
AMBER VALLEY JEDEDIAH STRUTT Jedediah and his family Jedediah Strutt is the man who connected all the sites in the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site. His Matlock Bath hosiery business and early silk mill were in Derby, and Cromford Jedediah was the leading partner in the development of Cromford Mill. The Belper and Milford Mills were built by Jedediah and his eldest son and his eldest Cromford Canal daughter married into the Evans family at Darley DERWENT VALLEY Whatstandwell Abbey. VISITOR CENTRE Jedediah remained a plain-living man despite his accumulated wealth, adhering to his Unitarian beliefs. He had three sons and two daughters by his wife, Ambergate Jedediah Strutt Elizabeth who died in 1774. Jedediah took a great A6 interest in his children’s education and development. He married Anne Daniels in 1781 and built a plain mansion as their home, Milford House. “Here rest in peace J. S. who without fortune, family or Belper friends raised to himself a fortune, family and name in the world; without having wit, had a good share of plain Milford common sense; without much genius, employed the more substantial blessing of a sound understanding; with but little personal pride, despised a mean or base action; Duffield with no ostentation for religious tenets and ceremonies, A6 he led a life of honesty and virtue, not knowing what Little would befall him after death, he died in full confidence Eaton that if there be a future state of retribution it would be to River reward the virtuous and the good. For more information visit A6 Derwent Strutt’s North Mill Darley This I think my true character.” The Derwent Valley Visitor Centre Abbey This was the obituary he had written for himself and Bridgefoot, Belper, Derbyshire DE56 1YD Little was found some time after his death - Jedediah Strutt Chester Tel: 01773 880474 / 0845 5214347 died 7th May 1797. -
Weaving Technology: Advances and Challenges Ii
Volume3, Issue 1, Summer 2003 WEAVING TECHNOLOGY: ADVANCES AND CHALLENGES II Abdelfattah M. Seyam College of Textiles, N. C. State University Raleigh, NC, USA ABSTRACT This paper reviews the recent advances in weaving industry and addresses the challenges that face the weaving industry. The paper sheds the light on how the weaving machine manufacturers and woven fabric producers might strengthen the weaving industry by further advance the technology and taking advantages of the current and new advances in weaving technologies. KEYWORDS: Weaving, Automation, Jacquard, Pattern Change. INTRODUCTION and how the weaving machine manufacturers and woven fabric producers Recently weaving machine producers might strengthen the weaving industry by introduced to the woven fabric further advance the technology and taking manufacturers a sizeable number of advantages of the current and new advances technological advances. Examples of such in weaving technologies and supporting advances are higher speeds than seen before, systems. a higher level of automation, a new Jacquard shedding concept, waste reduction, and on- ADVANCES IN WEAVING line quality monitoring. These advances may enable the developed nations to drastically Weaving Speeds lower the labor cost and may be able to At recent machinery shows (ITMA’ 99, compete in the commodity fabric markets. ATME-I’ 2001), weaving machine Despite these significant development in manufacturers showed a broad range of weaving, weavers in the developed and machines with higher speed and rate of developing nations are faced with serious filling insertion (RFI) than seen before. The competition from other fabric forming fabric quality, which is significantly systems such as needlepunching and impacted by efficiency, is a must for the hydroentanglement nonwoven technologies. -
Belper Mills Site
Belper North Mill Trust Outline masterplan for the renewal of the Belper Mills site February 2017 Belper North Mill Trust Outline masterplan for the renewal of the Belper Mills site Contents Page numbers 1 Introduction 1 2 Heritage significance 1 - 4 3 End uses 4 - 5 4 Development strategy 5 - 9 4.1 Phase 1 6 - 7 4.2 Phase 2 7 4.3 Phase 3 8 4.4 The end result 9 5 Costs of realisation 10 - 11 6 Potential financing – capital and revenue 11 - 15 6.1 Capital/realisation 11 - 12 6.2 Revenue sustainability 12 - 15 7 Delivery 15 - 16 Appendices 1 Purcell's Statement of Significance 2 Purcell's Feasibility Study Belper North Mill Trust Outline masterplan for the renewal of the Belper Mills site 1 Introduction As part of this phase of work for the Belper North Mill Trust we have, with Purcell Architects, carried out an outline masterplanning exercise for the whole Belper Mills site. At the outset, it is important to say that at the moment the site is privately owned and that while Amber Valley Borough Council initiated a Compulsory Purchase Order process in 2015, that process is still at a preliminary stage. This is a preliminary overview, based on the best available, but limited, information. In particular, access to the buildings on site has been limited; while a considerable amount of the North Mill is accessible because it is occupied, access to the East Mill, now empty, was not made available to us. Also, while we have undertaken some stakeholder consultation, we have not at this stage carried out wider consultation or public engagement, nor have we undertaken detailed market research, all of which would be essential to any next stage planning for the future of the site. -
Cotton and the Community: Exploring Changing Concepts of Identity and Community on Lancashire’S Cotton Frontier C.1890-1950
Cotton and the Community: Exploring Changing Concepts of Identity and Community on Lancashire’s Cotton Frontier c.1890-1950 By Jack Southern A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment for the requirements for the degree of a PhD, at the University of Central Lancashire April 2016 1 i University of Central Lancashire STUDENT DECLARATION FORM I declare that whilst being registered as a candidate of the research degree, I have not been a registered candidate or enrolled student for another aware of the University or other academic or professional institution. I declare that no material contained in this thesis has been used for any other submission for an academic award and is solely my own work. Signature of Candidate ________________________________________________ Type of Award: Doctor of Philosophy School: Education and Social Sciences ii ABSTRACT This thesis explores the evolution of identity and community within north east Lancashire during a period when the area gained regional and national prominence through its involvement in the cotton industry. It examines how the overarching shared culture of the area could evolve under altering economic conditions, and how expressions of identity fluctuated through the cotton industry’s peak and decline. In effect, it explores how local populations could shape and be shaped by the cotton industry. By focusing on a compact area with diverse settlements, this thesis contributes to the wider understanding of what it was to live in an area dominated by a single industry. The complex legacy that the cotton industry’s decline has had is explored through a range of settlement types, from large town to small village. -
Langues, Accents, Prénoms & Noms De Famille
Les Secrets de la Septième Mer LLaanngguueess,, aacccceennttss,, pprréénnoommss && nnoommss ddee ffaammiillllee Il y a dans les Secrets de la Septième Mer une grande quantité de langues et encore plus d’accents. Paru dans divers supplément et sur le site d’AEG (pour les accents avaloniens), je vous les regroupe ici en une aide de jeu complète. D’ailleurs, à mon avis, il convient de les traiter à part des avantages, car ces langues peuvent être apprises après la création du personnage en dépensant des XP contrairement aux autres avantages. TTaabbllee ddeess mmaattiièèrreess Les différentes langues 3 Yilan-baraji 5 Les langues antiques 3 Les langues du Cathay 5 Théan 3 Han hua 5 Acragan 3 Khimal 5 Alto-Oguz 3 Koryo 6 Cymrique 3 Lanna 6 Haut Eisenör 3 Tashil 6 Teodoran 3 Tiakhar 6 Vieux Fidheli 3 Xian Bei 6 Les langues de Théah 4 Les langues de l’Archipel de Minuit 6 Avalonien 4 Erego 6 Castillian 4 Kanu 6 Eisenör 4 My’ar’pa 6 Montaginois 4 Taran 6 Ussuran 4 Urub 6 Vendelar 4 Les langues des autres continents 6 Vodacci 4 Les langages et codes secrets des différentes Les langues orphelines ussuranes 4 organisations de Théah 7 Fidheli 4 Alphabet des Croix Noires 7 Kosar 4 Assertions 7 Les langues de l’Empire du Croissant 5 Lieux 7 Aldiz-baraji 5 Heures 7 Atlar-baraji 5 Ponctuation et modificateurs 7 Jadur-baraji 5 Le code des pierres 7 Kurta-baraji 5 Le langage des paupières 7 Ruzgar-baraji 5 Le langage des “i“ 8 Tikaret-baraji 5 Le code de la Rose 8 Tikat-baraji 5 Le code 8 Tirala-baraji 5 Les Poignées de mains 8 1 Langues, accents, noms -
Development of Double Cloth Structure to Facilitate Versatile Application of Denim Fabric
Journal of Textile Science and Technology, 2019, 5, 19-26 http://www.scirp.org/journal/jtst ISSN Online: 2379-1551 ISSN Print: 2379-1543 Development of Double Cloth Structure to Facilitate Versatile Application of Denim Fabric Rubel Alam1*, Tarikul Islam2, Ahsan Haider3, Nazmul Haque4, Jahidul Islam5, Mohammad Zakaria5 1Department of Knitwear Manufacturing and Technology, BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT), Dhaka, Bangladesh 2Department of Textile Engineering, Jashore University of Science and Technology (JUST), Jashore, Bangladesh 3Envoy Textiles Limited, Gazipur, Bangladesh 4Amber Denim Mills Limited, Gazipur, Bangladesh 5Department of Textile Engineering, Dhaka University of Engineering and Technology (DUET), Gazipur, Bangladesh How to cite this paper: Alam, R., Islam, Abstract T., Haider, A., Haque, N., Islam, J. and Zakaria, M. (2019) Development of Double Denim is the most popular dress material to any age of people. Day by day its Cloth Structure to Facilitate Versatile Ap- demand increasing swiftly because of western life style and fashion has been plication of Denim Fabric. Journal of Tex- accelerated with the trends of casualization across the globe. Nowadays, the tile Science and Technology, 5, 19-26. https://doi.org/10.4236/jtst.2019.51002 present structure of denim (regular, stretch) cannot cover the versatile field of human needs owing to its comfort and stiffness problem. So it is very impor- Received: October 24, 2018 tant to diversification of denim fabrics according to the customers demand Accepted: February 23, 2019 Published: February 26, 2019 and also acquisition the consumer. The main goal of the study is to develop s s double cloth structure in denim using 30 /1 and 20 /1 cotton (CW) yarn by Copyright © 2019 by author(s) and some selected structures. -
The Derbyshire General Infirmary and The
Medical History, 2000, 46: 65-92 The Derbyshire General Infirmary and the Derby Philosophers: The Application of Industrial Architecture and Technology to Medical Institutions in Early-Nineteenth-Century England PAUL ELLIOTT* Though there have been various studies ofhospital architecture, few have examined in detail the application of industrial technology to medical institutions in the Enlightenment and early-nineteenth-century periods.' This paper tries to rectify this by offering a case study of one hospital, the Derbyshire General Infirmary (1810), where, principally under the inspiration of the cotton manufacturer, William Strutt FRS (1756-1830), a deliberate attempt was made to incorporate into a medical institution the latest "fireproof' building techniques with technology developed for * Paul Elliott, School of Geography, University of medicine in Manchester, 1788-1792: hospital Nottingham, University Park, Nottingham, NG7 reform and public health services in the early 2RD. industrial city', Med. Hist., 1984, 28: 227-49; F N L Poynter (ed.), The evolution of hospitals in I am grateful to Desmond King-Hele, Jonathan Britain, London, Pitman Medical, 1968; L Prior, Barry, Anne Borsay, William F Bynum and John 'The architecture of the hospital: a study of Pickstone for their helpful criticisms, and to John spatial organisation and medical knowledge', Br Pickstone for sending me copies of a couple of J. Sociol., 1988, 39: pp. 86-113; H Richardson his papers. (ed.), English hospitals, 1660-1948: a survey of their architecture and design, Swindon, Royal 'B Abel-Smith, The hospitals 1880-1948: a Commission on the Historical Monuments of study in social administration in England and England, 1998; E M Sigsworth, 'Gateways to Wales, London, Heinemann, 1964; A Berry, death? Medicine, hospitals and mortality, 'Patronage, funding and the hospital patient c. -
Amelia Gayle Gorgas: a Study of the Woman and Her Dress Chalise Ludlow University of Tennessee-Chattanooga, [email protected]
International Textile and Apparel Association 2018: Re-Imagine the Re-Newable (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings Jan 1st, 12:00 AM Amelia Gayle Gorgas: A Study of the Woman and Her Dress Chalise Ludlow University of Tennessee-Chattanooga, [email protected] Virginia Wimberley University of Alabama, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings Part of the Cultural History Commons, Fashion Design Commons, and the Women's History Commons Ludlow, Chalise and Wimberley, Virginia, "Amelia Gayle Gorgas: A Study of the Woman and Her Dress" (2018). International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings. 108. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings/2018/posters/108 This Poster is brought to you for free and open access by the Conferences and Symposia at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Cleveland, Ohio 2018 Proceedings Amelia Gayle Gorgas: A Study of the Woman and Her Dress Chalise Ludlow & Virginia Wimberley The University of Alabama, USA Keywords: 19th Century, day-dress, pleating, patterning By the beginning of the 1850s women’s skirts had reached a breaking point but new inventions allowed the skirts to continue to grow. In the midst of this change America was in the middle of the Civil War, which also had an effect on fashion and those who wore it. Amelia Gayle Gorgas, wife of a Confederate captain, was caught up in the war as she moved with her husband, Josiah, to assignment in Richmond, Virginia. -
Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750-1950 DATS in Partnership with the V&A
Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750-1950 DATS in partnership with the V&A DATS DRESS AND TEXTILE SPECIALISTS 1 Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750-1950 Text copyright © DATS, 2007 Image copyrights as specified in each section. This information pack has been produced to accompany a one-day workshop of the same name taught by Sue Kerry and held at Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery Collections Centre on 29th November 2007. The workshop is one of three produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A, funded by the Renaissance Subject Specialist Network Implementation Grant Programme, administered by the MLA. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audience. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the public. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740 -1890 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Front Cover - English silk tissue, 1875, Spitalfields. T.147-1972 , Image © V&A Images / Victoria and Albert Museum 2 Identifying Textile Types and Weaves Contents Page 2. List of Illustrations 1 3. Introduction and identification checklist 3 4. Identifying Textile Types - Fibres and Yarns 4 5. Weaving and Woven Cloth Historical Framework - Looms 8 6. Identifying Basic Weave Structures – Plain Cloths 12 7. Identifying Basic Weave Structures – Figured / Ornate Cloths 17 8. -
Strutt's North Mill Museum Educational Programme
Strutt’s North Mill Museum Educational Programme Explore How Local Innovation Had A Global Impact and How Belper Became the First Cotton Mill Town 0 | P a g e Belper North Mill Trust Educational Programme Pack Contents Introduction to Strutt’s North Mill 2 Educational Visits to Strutt’s North Mill 2 Conditions of an Educational Visit 3 Prices 3 What we provide for schools 3 A Typical Education Day 3 Student ages and numbers visiting 4 Days available 4 Conditions in the Mill 4 Preliminary Visits 4 Our Different Education Packages 5 Primary Schools (Key Stage 1) 5 Primary Schools (Key Stage 2) 5 Secondary Schools 5 Further and Higher Education 6 Outreach Opportunities 6 Community Groups (Children and Youth Clubs) 6 Booking an Education Visit 7 Contact Us 7 Travelling to Belper 7 1 | P a g e Belper North Mill Trust Educational Programme Pack Introduction to Strutt’s North Mill Strutt’s North Mill Museum sits inside one of the earliest iron-framed, fire-proof, multi-storied buildings in the world. The unique architecture of the North Mill (1804), which can be seen first- hand as you wander around the basement’s columns, showcases how local innovation had a global influence, as the North Mill’s design inspired the construction of skyscrapers. The museum itself explores how Jedediah Strutt helped introduce mechanised cotton spinning to the Derwent Valley (now the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site), helping to spark the Industrial Revolution. Discover how the factory system impacted ordinary people’s lives and experience what it would have been like for a mill worker in a Strutt Mill. -
Q3y Saturday 3D Septembe.R a Swadlincote Potteries Sunday 4Th
I !.r I. 7 d, 'l' r;' I AIA Conference - Derbvshire - September 2005 ; Visit Notes Q3y Visit Ref Saturday 3d Septembe.r A Swadlincote potteries B Belper Mills and Strutt housing C Heage Windmill & Morley Park lronworks Sunday 4th September D Derby Rai|ways E Long Eaton & Shardlow F Darley Abbey and Derby llills * Monday Sth September G Peak District Lead H Caudwells Mill & Hope CementWorks Tuesday 6th September J Cromford & Matlock K National Stone Centre and CHpR Wednesday 7th September L North East Derbyshire M Erewash Valley Thursday 8h September N South Derbyshire AIA 2005 Derbyshire Tour Notes Saturday 3'September Visit A Swadlincote Potteries Sharpe's Potterv Thomas Sharpe, a local farmer, started his pottery in 1821, one of half a dozen pot-banks founded at that time. He used the good clay available in South Derbyshire and made domestic ware. Colour (acid), white glaze and blue (alkali) wares were made and were soon being exported. As customary, a long central workshop was flanked by a kiln at each end, for biscuit and glaze firings respectively. There was great demand for toilet bowls and sinks in the 1850s - the flushing rim pan principle still used today was patented by E Sharpe. A new works was built in the 1850s with another pair of kilns (demolished 1 906). There was further development in 1901 across West Street, that site later passing to Burton Co-operative Society, who have since sold part of it; the curved facade of the car parts shop on the corner betrays a former kiln. Sharpe's ran a maximum of six kilns at any one time. -
For Yarn Dyed and Dobby Woven Fabrics
For Yarn Dyed and Dobby Woven Fabrics Weaver’s delight, a comprehensive tool kit for the technically discerning and a very simple and powerful CAD system for the visualiser or weaving novice. Design Dobby handles weaves, yarns, patterns and construction parameters to instantly simulate realistic fabric on screen. Further it allows you immense flexibility to alter, try ‘what if’ scenarios in enhancing the concept you initiated. Yarn Development and Management Designed for the ease of use and strong facilities, the yarn development module creates all types of yarns such as - dyed, fancy, melange, slubs, loop, taspa, etc. or combination of different fancy effects. Different type of fibres, twist per inch and direction can be specified to ensure ideal simulation environment. Simple color controls to research the ideal match and also standard color palettes are accessible. The developed yarns can be visualised in real time DOBBY for evaluation and interactive changes. Also fabric effect of yarn developed can be simulated. The yarn can finally be saved in an efficient yarn management library for easy retrieval and usage with count and cost parameters. Weave Creator Defining draft, peg plan can be done numerically or directly drawing on a point paper. Simple to use-cut, copy, paste, mirror tools etc. are supported. Weave book manages library of weaves and provides controls for creating complex weave structures by combining weaves. Advanced auto weave generation facility provides for creation of different design effects within the same draft order while changing the lifting plan. Auto weave insertion facility available is for integrating dobby effects directly onto a design in ornamentation or extra warp mode.