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THE BRITAIN- SOCIETY

J o u r n a l

Number 33

2009 67303 BritainNepal 33 COV:55503 BritainNepal 31 COV 20/10/11 08:54 Page 4

ACORN Nepal Trust (Aid for Children of Rural Nepal and Educational Trust) Charitable Society Regd. No. 701/1999

President Rtn. Hari Bivor Karki

Vice-President Prof. Dr. Bharat B. Karki

Secretary Anjela Nepal Karki

Treasurer Mrs. Bimala Katuwal

Executive Members Dr. Yagya B. Karki Mrs. Shova Subedi Mrs. Sushila Khadka

That is why we are asking those In just the last four years the If you do write or amend your who do remember, to consider monthly ‘welfare pension’ we Will to make a provision for the Hon. Members making a provision now for the pay to some 10,400 Trust then do please let us know. Lady Morris of Kenwood time when funding and support ex-servicemen and widows has We hope it will be many years Rtn. Gerald Hughes risen from 2,500 NCR to 3,800 before we see the benefit of your for Gurkha welfare will be much Mr. Brian Mayhew NCR to try and keep pace legacy, but knowing that a harder to come by. You can do Ms. Diana Reason this by a legacy or bequest to the with inflation in Nepal. Welfare number of our supporters have Dr Abhiram Bahadur Singh Gurkha Welfare Trust in your Will. pensions alone cost the Trust £4.4 remembered the Trust in their million last year. Who knows what Wills helps so much in our This will help to ensure the the welfare pension will need to be forward planning. Thank you. Founder President long-term future of our work. in 10 or 20 years time. Main Office U.K. Contact Prof. Dr. Bharat B. Karki Rtn. H.B. Karki Balkhu, Ring Road, - 14 21 Victoria Road, Aldershot Tel: 279762, Post Box: 3046 Hampshire GU11 1TQ PLEASE WRITE TO: , PO Box 2170, Fax: 977-1-282688 Tel/Fax: 01252 316058 22 Queen Street, Salisbury SP2 2EX, telephone us on 01722 323955 or e-mail [email protected] Registered charity No. 1103669 67303 BritainNepal 33 TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 25/1/10 14:10 Page 1

THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY

Journal Number 33 2009

CONTENTS

4 Editorial

7 The Society’s News

9 We Won – The Esther Benjamin’s Trust

14 Golden Rain

18 A Great Game Connection with Jersey

24 and Tea

28 Autism in Nepal

30 From the Editor’s In-Tray

35 Review article – Britain’s Gurkha War

41 Short reviews

44 Obituaries

49 The International Trust for Nature Conservation

50 Useful addresses

51 Notes on the Britain – Nepal Society

52 Officers and Committee of the Society

1 67303 BritainNepal 33 TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 25/1/10 14:10 Page 2 The pavilion in the Dream Garden,the restored garden of the Kaiser Mahal (Kaiser Library). pavilion in the Dream The

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Mr Jhabindra Prasad Aryal, Charge d’Affaires with the chairman at the Supper.

The vice chairman, Mr John Ackroyd and the secretary, Mrs Pat Mellor at the Supper.

Miss Myrtle Ross at the Supper. Brig Christopher Bullock at the Museum.

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EDITORIAL

The year 2009 has been a difficult one an under-sea cabinet meeting. Not to be out politically for Nepal, as was indicated to the done, the Nepalese cabinet held a meeting Society in the lecture given to us by HE Dr on 4th December at the Everest base camp, Andrew Hall earlier in the year. Changes in a somewhat costly and potentially government will have distracted the dangerous exercise. Constituent Assembly from their task of As ever Nepal has to face both and producing the new constitution, with China. There seems to be increasing inevitable delays. One of the major sticking Chinese involvement as they have indicated points has been the question surrounding a greater willingness to help get food and the future of the Maoist ‘fighters’ now goods to the remote northern border areas being held in UN monitored camps across by routing traffic via their main east-west the country. Negotiations to absorb some road to the north of the main Himalayan into the Nepalese Army have failed. The range, using feeder roads emanating Chief of Army Staff refused to accept this southwards into Nepalese territory. The proposition and, as a consequence, was Nepalese are increasing border security at dismissed by the Prime Minister, Pushpa the northern passes and routes into the Kamal Dahal, (aka ‘Prachanda’). His Autonomous Region. This will permit dismissal was then reversed by the greater control over Tibetans wishing to President which resulted in the Prime enter Nepal en route to India and Minister’s resignation and the withdrawal Dharamsala, the current home of the Dalai of the Maoist party from government. Mr Lama. Both the former King Gyanendra Madhav Kumar Nepal is the current PM (as and more recent political leaders have at December 2009). The Maoists then sought to woo Chinese support to imposed a blockade on Parliament which strengthen legitimacy and to off set Indian has further delayed progress and means that influence to the south. The quid pro quo has it is practically certain that the May 2010 been the tightening up over the Tibetan deadline for a new constitution will not be exiled community with the closure of the achieved. During early November it Dalai Lama’s representative’s office and the became apparent that unless Parliamentary UN-funded Tibetan Refugee Welfare Office business was resumed, the country would in 2005 by Gyanendra and the subsequent soon run out of government funds as the refusal by the Maoist government in 2008 budget had not been passed. After to reopen these offices. Issues in respect of considerable discussion the Maoists lifted the Arunachal (former North East Frontier their blockade for three days during which Agency)/ Chinese border are once again time the budget was approved. The high on the Chinese agenda since they blockade was then re-imposed. The current claim this as Chinese territory. India with UN mandate will run out in January 2010. her own Maoist problems, will wish to Since UNMIN has not yet fully achieved its minimize problems coming out of purpose, it would seem that an extension is Kathmandu. All these competing pressures likely and negotiations are under way at the have a strong influence on the direction of time of drafting. Climate change is of great ‘Himalayan politics’. importance to Nepal as everywhere else. To Notwithstanding political life in Nepal, highlight the Copenhagen climate there is this autumn a high level of tourist conference, the Maldives government held activity. Hotels are recording high

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occupancy rates and tourists one meets all annual championships, held on Meghauli seem to have had enjoyable experiences. airstrip in Chitwan, attracted much attention Looking ahead some problems would from the British press, highlighting Nepal appear to be looming. Relatively little rain as an important tourist destination. He was fell during the monsoon and already this is also the driving force behind the setting up affecting electricity supplies with load of the International Trust for Nature shedding in place. Likewise drinking water Conservation (ITNC), a conservation will become scarcer. There are always organisation which has been able to threats of strikes and bhands by Maoist concentrate on projects that did not activists which could affect movement necessarily fit the remit of the large global around the country, both road and air and trusts. A full obituary, written by Marcus hotel staff. Much will depend upon how the Cotton, a colleague and friend is elsewhere politicians resolve their differences over the in the journal. coming months. Another erstwhile member from the A Society as old as ours, approaching its early 1960s, Tom Spring-Smyth also died in golden jubilee, inevitably loses its founder mid year. The late fifties and early sixties in and senior members as the years go by. Nepal were what I term the ‘Han Su Yin’ or This year is no exception. We were sad to ‘post Han Su Yin period’ (See footnote.). It learn that Jim Edwards, of Tiger Tops fame, was the age of pioneering there, at least for a life member of the Society, had died in westerners. It was the age of Boris March. I had had the good fortune to meet Lissanevitch at the Royal Hotel, Father him in Kathmandu in mid 1962, when we Marshall Moran at St Xaviers School and both arrived in Nepal at about the same Toni Hagen, the Swiss geologist and time. The expat community in those days explorer. Tom, a retired military engineer, was very small so I was glad to get to know was working for the UN on the early someone of my own age on my visits to feasibility work for the Karnali hydro- Kathmandu from Dharan. Our paths electric project. Tom was a keen crossed quite often over the succeeding horticulturist and travelled widely looking years with our children attending the same for plants. Members will recall the outing in prep school. Jim was initially famous for 2000 to the Hillier Arboretum hosted by his work in making Tiger Tops an iconic Tom to see the Gurkha Memorial Garden location in for wildlife tourism in Nepal. that he master-minded. A full obituary, With the late Colonel Jimmy Roberts he written with the aid of Tony Schilling, is established the Tiger Mountain group of also elsewhere in the journal. companies which set the standard for Sadly too Sir Anthony Hurrell died in wildlife tourism, trekking and the spring. He was ambassador in mountaineering in Nepal. This brought a Kathmandu 1983-86. His route to becoming large number of ‘high value’ tourists to ambassador did not follow the usual path, Nepal, contributing greatly to Nepal’s not having started his career in the Foreign economy over many years. Jim always Service. He was also a very keen sought to ensure that his work was sound ornithologist and bird ringer. environmentally and took great care of the As the Secretary reports, one of our needs of his local staff. Many Society strongest supporters, former chairman and members, their children and their friends vice president, Peter Leggatt, very sadly will have experienced Jim’s generosity and died just a few days before the Society’s hospitality in Nepal. He co-founded the AGM. World Elephant Polo Association. The I am grateful as always to the Journal’s

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contributors. Philip Holmes has provided an Lhotshampas that established itself there. update of the Esther Benjamin’s Trust’s Some 90,000 refugees were put in camps in continuing operations to return Nepalese east Nepal that have been in existence since girls who were working in Indian circuses the early 1990s and although the question is in appalling conditions. With permission still not settled, some 60,000 are being from the editor of The , journal of the offered the chance to move to the USA. Brigade of , I have included a story Thanks to the efforts of John Cross, Mr written by Lt Col John Cross, in his own John Pemble has had his original work on inimitable style that comes from his the 1814 -16 Anglo-Nepal war republished. journeying around Nepal to meet ex- The book has been thoroughly reviewed servicemen and their families. Major Kelvin under the new title of Britain’s Gurkha War. Kent has written about the Jersey The Society was privileged to receive a connection with one of the nineteenth lecture from Pemble, the text of which has century ‘Great Game’ characters. Although been published in Asian Affairs, the journal not strictly about Nepal, it was at least of the Royal Society for Asian Affairs peripheral to that area of operations. It was (formerly the Royal Central Asian Society). the Nepalese consul in that helped There is quite a literary tradition in the Sir Francis Younghusband in his initial Society as the ‘Short Review’ section approaches to the Tibetan authorities in demonstrates. I congratulate the authors 1903/04. A ‘game’ is still being played out involved. Harish Karki has written about in and one should perhaps his early life in Nepal and the army before remember Lord Curzon’s words at the 1908 coming to UK and becoming a successful annual dinner of the then Central Asian restauranteur. Brigadier Christopher Society, “fifty or a hundred years hence, Bullock has written the definitive history of Afghanistan will be as vital and important a the and John Cross is question as it is now.” Darjeeling is very continuing his series of historical novels. much part of the Nepalese diaspora and is There are here plenty of ideas for members well known to senior members of the or indeed their spouses for suitable Society. Thanks to the late Mr Peter presents. Leggatt, a director of Camellia PLC, I am The frontispiece photograph shows the pleased to include a short article from the pavilion in the recently restored section of Camellia Journal, house magazine of the garden of Kaiser Mahal. This has been Camellia PLC, which sketches out a brief tastefully done and is a haven of quiet history of the development of the tea amongst the noise and bustle of industry in the Darjeeling district. Nepalese Kathmandu. There is a good restaurant and were encouraged to take up work in the coffee bar run by the Dwarika Hotel. It is developing tea gardens in the late an excellent place to sit and write or just nineteenth century. Over the succeeding relax. The famous library put together by years with both an expanding population the late Field Marshal ‘Kaiser’ Shumsher and increased development, there has been Rana (1892-1964) with its pictures provides a movement of Nepalese north and east into a reading area for students and visitors and ’s lowland region, to Assam and the houses the Ministry of Education. surrounding states. Nepali is a very useful language for travel within north east India. (Foot note: Han Su Yin wrote a novel set in Kathmandu in the late 1950s entitled The Mountain is Young. Her There is a twenty year, outstanding dispute characters are based on real people there at that time and her with Bhutan over the question of the description of life in the Valley is very evocative. Ed.) Nepalese ethnic group, known as the

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THE SOCIETY’S NEWS By Pat Mellor

Once again, we have been privileged to book has a forward written by the be able to hold our AGM and our inimitable John Cross. Executive Committee Meetings at the Nepalese Embassy by kind permission of Thursday, 26th March at Canning Mr Jhabindra Aryal, Charge d’Affaires. House – (rather soon after the last The Committee and Members give their lecture but fitting in with Dr thanks to Mr Aryal and to all the Andrew Hall’s visit to London), HE members of the Embassy staff who are Dr Andrew Hall OBE, British always unfailingly charming and helpful Ambassador to Nepal, gave to us. This last year I have been acting as members an outline of the present Honorary Secretary with the great help of situation from both the political and Mrs Jenifer Evans. However I am general angle in Nepal. This talk looking forward to all the Members was attended by many members putting their minds to finding that elusive interested to hear directly about the being – a new keen Honorary Secretary current situation. Dr Hall gave bursting with wonderful new ideas. members a clear, if somewhat depressing picture of some aspects LECTURES but it was hoped that some In 2009 the Society was able to hold four improvements were possible as talks, three at the Medical Society of work continued on the London and one at Canning House, constitution. Members were keenly Belgrave Square, where the Royal interested and kept Dr Hall Society for Asian Affairs have their office answering questions long after the & library and hold their talks. These official end of the talk. were: Wednesday, 28th January Lt Col Thursday, 15th October, George Gerry Birch gave a fascinating talk Band OBE gave a talk entitled with a collection of slides from the ‘Everest 1953, Hillary and His 1948/49 American Zoological Himalayan Trust’, which gave us a Expedition to Nepal from the picture of Ed Hillary and the archives of the Royal Society for schools that he started in Nepal as a Asian Affairs. charitable trust. This very popular talk was followed by a Nepali Thursday, 12th March, John supper attended by some 40 Pemble’s talk was entitled members and guests. “Gurkhas, Guns & Shawl- wool Our grateful thanks goes to all these goats – Looking again at the Anglo excellent speakers who gave us their Nepalese War”. John Pemble took time, shared their knowledge and showed members through the new revised beautiful slides. We look forward to edition of his book entitled meeting them again and thanking them “Britain’s Gurkha War – The personally at the Annual Nepali Supper invasion of Nepal 1814-16”. This in 2010.

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ANNUAL NEPALI SUPPER Bullock OBE MC gave a short and As usual, the Supper was held at St interesting talk about his forthcoming Columba’s Church of Scotland Hall in book, Britain’s Gurkhas, before we Pont Street on the 19th February 2009, toured the Museum, which has seen with over120 people attending. This was many of the exhibits brought up to date. a very happy and successful evening and It was a fascinating and well worthwhile we were glad to welcome orderlies and a a visit, and an excellent day out. piper from the Queen’s Gurkha Engineers to play during the evening. Members The date for the Summer Outing next really appreciate the help that these men year is to be Saturday, 3rd July 2010 to so willingly provide. Also we were happy Whipsnade Zoo. to welcome the two Queen’s Gurkha Orderly Officers to the Supper as our DEATHS guests. It is with sadness that I have to report that the following members died during Please note that the date for the 2010 2009: Annual Nepali Supper is Thursday, 18th February. Dr Brian C Davies Mr A V Jim Edwards, Life Member & SUMMER OUTING Founder of Tiger Mountain The Summer Outing this year was held Sir Anthony Hurrell KCVO CMG – on Sunday, 4th July, when, with great former ambassador in Kathmandu help in the arrangements from Mrs Mrs Diana Roberts Jenifer Evans, we visited the Gurkha Major T Le M Spring-Smyth Museum in Winchester. Some 43 members gathered for a pre-lunch drink Late Note: and chat (of which there was plenty) and It is with great sadness that we have to then we all trooped into the very lovely record the sudden and unexpected death dining room at the Museum with the of Mr Peter A Leggatt, MBE, at his home tables set with the silver and settled down in London on Sunday 29th November, to a delicious lunch supplied by the former chairman and vice president of Gurkha Kitchen Restaurant nearby. the Society. An obituary will be included After lunch, Brigadier Christopher in the 2010 edition of the journal.

SOCIETY TIES SCARVES AND LAPEL BADGES

Mr David Jefford kindly looks after the sale of the Society ties and scarves which cost £10.00 each including postage. They are available from him at: 20 Longmead, Fleet, Hampshire GU52 7TR or at the AGM or one of our major functions.

Miss Jane Loveless has supervised the production of a very attractive lapel badge which is available for sale for £3.00 at the AGM and other major functions.

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WE WON By Philip Holmes Founder/Director - The Esther Benjamin’s Trust

“Tirmaya, aged 14, from Nepal, was sent the contracts they were ‘signing’ – often by her parents to the Weston Circus at with a thumbprint as they had never held the age of six. She went there through an a pen before, let alone used one – and agent, whom she identified as Dhan they were frequently written in English Bahadur of Nepal, a local man. She does in any case. not remember her exact address. She has Other parents didn’t care, for in selling not visited her home in all these years, the children they would often be nor have her parents visited her. She offloading unwanted progeny from first requested Dhan Bahadur to take her marriages for a few dollars in up-front back to her parents, but he pretended not cash with the prospect of additional to recognise her. She implored the payments further down the line. They researchers to help her return home.” were consigning their daughters to oblivion. This extract comes from a report we Six years ago I was shaken by the published in 2003 which followed our grim content of our report, its findings of undercover survey during the latter half vicious beatings and entrapment inside of 2002 investigating the use of these prisons that masqueraded as trafficked children in Indian circuses. circuses, and I was moved by the Tirmaya was one of scores of lost Nepali desperate requests of the children for the girls we found inside the circuses – each researchers to help them. It seemed like of whom had been sold by their parents an impossible task for our new, very into a life of abuse (including sexual small charity – an apparently unequal, abuse) and exploitation by cruel circus unwinnable struggle with the powerful owners. Indian circus industry. But it was one I Nepalese girls were highly sought felt we had to accept. after by the circuses as a way of We set up an office at Hetauda in the attracting customers who were lecherous south of Nepal, in the heart of the main voyeurs rather than circus skills fanatics. child trafficking area of Makwanpur The girls would be scantily clad during District. We liaised with families who performances, with fixed smiles; if they had sent children south into India and smiled too much or too little they would regretted their decision. They sought help be beaten after the show. in retrieving their daughters. We built up These modern-day slaves performed a “Hetauda List” – the names and details three times a day, seven days a week of missing children against their last with continuous training between shows. known circus whereabouts. Then we They were bound to the circuses by began to work through the list, circus by illegal contracts brokered by scurrilous circus, mounting rescue operations by child trafficking agents – contracts which sending a team into India (sometimes effectively imprisoned them for 10 to 15 accompanied by parents) to wherever a years with no remuneration. Illiterate particular circus was thought to be parents had no idea as to the content of playing. Some of our team members

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were former circus staff – poachers reunification is possible (and deemed turned gamekeepers – who could use safe) we financially support the children their connections in India to establish a as they rejoin school and the older ones circus’s whereabouts. At the circus who enter vocational training. location the team would link up with the Beyond our main focus of care, we local authorities and instigate a police have tackled the trafficking problem at raid on the unsuspecting circus. its core in two key respects: income The first big rescue took place in April generation activities are helping 2004 when we freed 29 children from communities to develop their own The Great Indian Circus in Kerala, south sustainable income and subsequently not India. Interviews with the rescued be so vulnerable to the approaches of children and teenagers indicated that the traffickers; meanwhile, we have situation inside the circus was even successfully pursued legal action against worse than we had believed. The newly- the traffickers and circus owners – with rescued girls could talk freely and it lengthy custodial sentences suitable became clear that all of the teenagers deterrents to any prospective agent or were being raped by the circus owner. owner. One little boy, Shankar, had the Dhan Bahadur Gurung, the agent horrifying task of taking girls to the mentioned in Tirmaya’s case, was circus owner’s tent at night. He would apprehended in early 2005. In a landmark hear the screams and pleas for mercy as court case, for which we provided the he waited outside. Others told of food witnesses and legal team, he was that was full of stones and shared with convicted of trafficking in May 2006 and the animals. The punishment for sentenced to the maximum 20 years in attempted escape was to be stripped prison with no prospect of remission. naked and beaten in front of the whole This was the first time the circus was troupe. The victim’s cries would be recognised by a Nepalese court as being drowned by the revving of circus motor “immoral” and a trafficking destination bike engines. comparable to the Indian sex trade. Since Our rescues have continued ever since then we have put another 12 agents and we have made astonishing progress behind bars, the latest one being a to achieve results in what can often be a notorious agent called Shankar Basnet. losing battle. These results can be No known agents are currently measured not just in terms of children trafficking to the circus industry. rescued but by how closely we support Lakhan Chaudhary, a prominent circus the trafficking survivors and their owner, had raped some of the girls at his families after the retrieval operations – New Raj Kamal circus. When we rescued and by the actions we have taken against these girls in 2007, he was sent to prison the perpetrators. pending trial; he was the first circus Many survivors have no families to owner to be jailed. The trial began this return to, so we offer long-term refuge year and we provided the witnesses. The accommodation in Kathmandu that offers key witness, Rita (name changed), was compassionate care and support, one of his victims and she gladly and education and vocational training and confidently gave evidence against him. social development opportunities. Where That she had the confidence to testify is

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tribute to her and the recovery she has to provide this care – and with many made in our secure, compassionate children likely to be with us for at least residential refuge. the next 10 years, that is a long-term commitment. Changing tide Hundreds of other Nepali children Throughout 2008 it became clear to us have been displaced to India – some that a sea change was taking place within working in coalmines, others living on the circuses – they were voluntarily the streets without support. Our sending girls back to Nepal to avoid the researchers are currently investigating the bad publicity they had been receiving in severity of the problem, but it is feasible the media. (For example: a rescue that I that more children will need to be went on in June 2008 received front page afforded the same care and attention as coverage in The Times of India. Circus the other beneficiaries we are helping. owners didn’t want the hassle, and no To meet these commitments, we need doubt the word about Chaudhary’s arrest substantial funds – and that is why I am was getting around.) The net flow of asking you to join me as a child sponsor. Nepalese girls was definitely back from For £25 per month you could pay for one the circuses, a turning of the tide that I child’s full residential care; £15 would had not anticipated. Nor had I expected cover their education. If you can spare £5 improvements in working conditions per month, it will help a child to enjoy inside the circuses, with the violence the stimulating social activities we stopping and girls being paid salaries. coordinate at the refuge. Alternatively, This being the case, many girls chose to you might like to consider becoming a stay with the troupe rather than return to testator if you are planning to draft or re- a more uncertain future in Nepal through write your Will. Please remember how voluntary release by the circus. even a modest gift in your Will can be This trafficking route between Nepal made to go a very long way in and India is now closed; the supply has impoverished rural Nepal. stopped because agents are in jail and there is no longer a demand from the The Esther Benjamins Trust circuses for Nepali girls. The “Hetauda www.ebtrust.org.uk List” has evaporated. Such a victory is a rare occurrence in the struggle against child trafficking, where the traffickers so often seem to be one step ahead of the authorities and concerned organisations such as ours. This is certainly a battle won, but a greater challenge lies ahead. The challenge is to provide continuous care for over 150 children whose only support now is The Esther Benjamins Trust. We provide the accommodation, care, access to education and vocational training these young people need to recover. It costs £45 per child per month

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GOLDERN RAIN By John Cross

(I am grateful to the editor of ‘The morning after your meal. You'll be there Kukri’, journal of the Brigade of by noon; I'll send my younger brother as Gurkhas for permission to reproduce this guide." piece. Ed.) "That's fine. I'll be back by late afternoon." The two old men had been enemies for He eyed me, hesitated, and then said, more than half a century. Their quarrel "I'll expect you when I see you but don't had its roots in the distribution of their forget we're due to move off north inheritance. The elder brother, tomorrow, for a week or so." Jaimordhan Rai, aged 80, had the lower The weather grew warmer as we and better plot of land: his younger descended and I appreciated it. From a brother, Dhanmordhan Rai, aged 76, had vantage point I saw a large house, the upper and less fertile. Local legend strongly built and surprisingly gracious had it that the division of the two of aspect. It was surrounded by an properties was a line of old laburnum orchard of orange, apple and peach trees, trees but according to the younger all starting to bloom. There were banana brother that was not where their father plants and a vegetable garden. Up the had intended it to be. Claim and counter - slope, maybe ten minutes walk away, claim had soured relations to such an was a much poorer house with the extent that the two men only ever met surrounding land ill-kempt. A row of when an important visitor arrived; trees ran between the two areas, the otherwise they went their own way, richer and the poorer, almost like a armed with against an attack by dividing line of falling golden rain, so the other. I learnt all this as I walked in profuse were the flowers. the hills of eastern Nepal in early 1967. "That's where we're heading for", my Back in the unit, while planning my guide told me. trek, I had been asked by a soldier if I "What are those trees with yellow would visit his house, taking a letter to flowers?" I asked him. his father. I told him to explain where it "Laburnum." was to my soldier-guide who, in turn, Barking dogs brought the family out, told me it was an hour's walk from his women and children first then, a minute own home, down in the valley. or so later, a stiff-backed old patriarch, Winter was over when we reached my the master of the house. He looked at me guide's home high up on a ridge but the inquiringly but said nothing. I went up cold wind was still bitter, bringing to him and made the customary flurries of late snow. He had business to salutation. "I'm your son Kishné's attend to so suggested I went down the officer. I come with his greetings, valley to the home of the soldier whose bearing a letter from him to you. He is letter I had said I would deliver. in good health and doing well." "It's warmer down there than up here. The old man, still not talking, gestured Time you stopped shivering!" He that a chair be brought for me. He then grinned at me. "Leave tomorrow winced and put his hand over his mouth.

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He was obviously in great pain. nearest dentist and then there was no After refreshment had been offered the guarantee of anything being done when old man leant over to me and, with a he got there. Also it was a tremendous great effort, said, in a straightforward effort for the old man, who lived in way that brooked no argument; "You are hopes it would get better of itself. That my guest. You will stay here until the gave me an idea: escape was impossible day after tomorrow, spending two nights that day, but as I had some Chinese in my house. No friend of Jaimordhan toothache dope in my kit in my guide's Rai ever stays less." house, I thought I would offer to go and He paused, winced and put his hand to fetch it for him the next day - then, his face as though nursing his mouth. He having escaped, send it back down. shook his head obstinately when I That evening, after our meal, remonstrated that in no way could I Jaimordhan, torn between pain and the abuse his hospitality for so long and, dictates of hospitality, sat and talked. I anyway, I had to move farther north the egged him on judiciously, and I learnt his next day. side of the quarrel between the two He turned to my guide and dismissed brothers. It seemed that the division of curtly: "You heard. Tell that up there to the two properties was the line of your elder brother. Be off now. I'll look laburnum trees but that was disputed. It after my son's saheb and arrange for an all struck me as so sad that such a feud, escort from here when the time comes." having festered for so long, would Before I could expostulate further we probably outlive them both and continue were joined by another old man who into the next generation. came down the hill. He looked furtively My bed was to be one side of the about then asked, Nepalese style, not porch. I was surprised to see two lots of directly to me but to another, who I was. blankets brought out. I was put on one No one answered so he introduced side and my host slept on the other, with himself as the younger brother, a kukri by his side and a lantern burning Dhanmordhan Rai, from the house up the all night. He had slept with that hill. The two old men sedulously particular kukri ever since the quarrel ignored each other except when the started. Before we went to sleep I put dictates of convention compelled my plan to him and he only acquiesced otherwise. It was embarrassing and I felt when I said I'd come back down for the uneasy; two days and two nights, I other night after my journey north. dismally thought, during an awkward I bade farewell after our meal next silence as I remembered the gossip I had morning. I told the old man to send picked up on my way. someone with me to bring back the phial I turned to my host and said he of dope and before I left I demonstrated seemed to be in pain. how to put some cotton wool on a sliver "My tooth ache is so bad, has been for of wood... six months, that I could easily hang ...I returned ten days later. The whole myself from one of my fruit trees and family turned out to greet me. I was relieve myself for ever from this wicked amazed to see the two old men, the two pain. I haven't had a proper meal since it brothers, obviously friendly and happy to started." be with each other where before the It was at least ten days' walk to the opposite had been the case. I was

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garlanded and made to sit between them. permanent present for my host. As I "We want to tell you," said walked back down to stay a second night Jaimordhan, "that we have made up our in the lower house, I guessed the secret quarrel. And it is all thanks to you!" of the dope's magic. Apart from curing "Yes," chimed Dhanmordhan, "that is toothache by its mild poison killing the so. We are now talking to each other damaged nerves, its latent power of properly after more than fifty years." patching up quarrels probably lay in the They could only tell me that the fact that it had a laburnum base (as I had toothache was completely cured and, in read when I gave it to Jaimordhan) and the euphoria of no pain and being able to the smell of it had subtly reminded them eat again, Jaimordhan had suggested to of the smell of the yellow blossoms of Dhanmordhan that he also try it. He had the laburnums that had unconsciously sniffed it but, even so, the magic of the taken them both back to childhood years dope had persuaded him to take the hand of happiness. of reconciliation that his elder brother Although that is pure conjecture, the had proffered. It was all rather kukri that Jaimordhan had slept with all wonderful and far beyond the those years is very real. It is in my expectations of any of us, including possession, given as a token of that myself. magical day. Later on that day I paid Dhanmordhan Years later I learnt from Kishné that a visit in his house. Before I went I neither of them had quarrelled again for examined the dope and made it a as long as they lived.

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A GREAT GAME CONNECTION WITH JERSEY? George Macartney’s Role in By Kelvin Kent FRGS

Although this piece is not about Nepal movements and aspirations of the itself, Nepal is integral to the Sub- opposing sides, knowing that the continent and its history. Many British control of routes over the passes into officers and Gurkha soldiers played India and the domination of that their part in what became known as country’s vast resources were the ‘’ played out in Central principal aims and attractions. Asia in the 19th & 20th centuries. The British, first by way of the Kelvin Kent, a member of the Society, British East India Company and, from now living in the USA, is a ‘Jerseyman’, 1858 onwards, after the Mutiny the year as was the late Jim Edwards. Kent lived before, the British Government itself in Jersey throughout the German was firmly entrenched in India and all of occupation. Both Kent and Edwards what is now Pakistan, Bangladesh, and were educated in Jersey at the same Burma with spheres of influence in time and knew each other. western China, Afghanistan and neighbouring communities. However, In the latter half of the nineteenth the Russians, who themselves were century and beginning of the twentieth pushing relentlessly eastwards, just north century a titanic imperial struggle for of the actual Great Game geographical supremacy in Central Asia took place regions, were becoming concerned with primarily between Victorian Britain and the possibility of preventing further Tsarist Russia that involved Manchu- British expansion and eagerly wished to ruled China, the Indian sub-continent grab some of the action for themselves. and even Germany, Japan and the The great historical ‘Silk Road’ cities remnants of the Ottoman Empire. This like Bokhara, Samarkand, Yarkand, extremely dangerous and courageous Turfan and Kashgar became centres of venture, whose spies worked under the intrigue and virtual ‘open season’ for guise of explorers, archaeologists and both subtle and not-so-subtle methods of diplomatic entities, became known as sizing up the competition and using ‘The Great Game’. Rudyard Kipling’s subterfuge to thwart the efforts of any famous character Kim was nothing opponent. Expeditions reported back to more than “a pawn in the Great Game.” the British Viceroy in India, the Royal The Great Game’s intelligence Geographical Society in London and the battlefield extended from eastern Asiatic Society in Calcutta. These Turkey into what are now known as organisations were involved in the northern Iran, Turkmenistan, arrangements for tasks of traditional Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, exploration, scientific research, and Kazakhstan and Afghanistan, Western cartographical work, which provided China, Japan, Tibet and, of course, the detailed measurements, local intelligence old Indian sub-continent. Indeed, the and intricate map-making reports goal of all parties concerned was to relevant to military intelligence scout out and analyze the locations, operations.

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One of the Great Game explorers outpost but accessible from . was the soon-to-be famous Lieutenant As a firmly Muslim stronghold, in an Francis Younghusband who made the Islamist dominated region, it housed the first known European crossing of the largest mosque in China. For the treacherous over the British, however, it was not just Mountains to modern Kashgar as a key strategic location but Pakistan in 1887. Younghusband had the man who fulfilled the position of made a pioneer journey of 4,000 miles host, consul and “mailbox” for some all the way from Peking, via the Gobi thirty years from 1891 to 1918. His Desert, for seven months and, of name was George Macartney, who, at course, brought back much valuable the age of 24 had accompanied intelligence information – not least of Younghusband on another of his which was gathering information about expeditions, this time to the Pamirs. what the Russians were up to. Earlier, The aim was to fill in the blanks on such famous characters as Moorcroft, British maps and assess the likely Conolly and Stoddart embarked on allegiance of local tribes, whether to incredibly dangerous missions Afghanistan or China. Macartney spoke resulting, not unexpectedly, in death by fluent Chinese and was the offspring of brutal means. Other professional a mixed British Chinese marriage since explorers like the Swede, , his father, Halliday Macartney, a British also paved the way in many of the military officer serving in China, had critical areas. But also participating married close female relative of the indirectly in the Great Game were then rebel Taiping Prince. Halliday famous archaeologists of the day like Macartney later joined the Chinese the foreign-born British expert, Sir army under General Charles Gordon , the German, Albert Von Le and served in a number of mid level Coq, the Frenchman Paul Pelliott, the civilian positions in Nanking. About a mysterious Count Otani from Japan and century earlier, an even more well- later, the American, Langdon Warner. known member of the same Scottish All of these men shared one thing in family from Auchinleck, another common and that was the city of George Macartney – later to become Kashgar, situated just west of the Viscount Macartney and an Earl in the notorious where the Irish Peerage, had been a distinguished northern and southern legs of the Silk diplomat serving as governor of Madras Road joined before continuing in India and Britain’s first official westwards to the Mediterranean. representative to China’s emperor. Kashgar, an oasis city in present-day For nearly 30 years the George Zinjiang Province of Western China, at Macartney (of Kashgar), with his the foot of the Tian Shan Mountains, amazing linguistic skills and ability to had become one of the key locations for speak Mandarin, French, Russian, the gathering of intelligence and German, Persian, Turkic and subsequent communication back to the Hindustani, acted as valued interpreter British Government in India and the and British Representative and Consul, Russian equivalent in St Petersburg. It operating from the same premises was also China’s westernmost railway known as Chini Bagh. But the amazing

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thing about this unusually intelligent, diplomatic relations with those who quiet and gifted man was that he made were known to be in direct opposition Chini Bagh the social centre, repository to the British policies in Asia. Peter and meeting place for all of the Great Hopkirk, author of The Great Game, Game players of that time. This he Foreign Devils on the Silk Road and accomplished with the aid of his new other publications on this fascinating wife, Catherine whom he brought out to period of British imperial history India in 1898. That it was, literally, a describes George Macartney as “one of sophisticated game, no one denied, but the truly great players” of the Great sharing Russian vodka, English Game. In 1913 he received a KCIE and delicacies or Japanese saki was all par was rewarded with the building of a for the course. In fact, Macartney grand new consulate building on the became the linchpin, freight handler very site of Chini Bagh. Even the and post office for all expeditions and Russians and Chinese recognized him movements to the east, north and south. as consul-general. His information was later used by But what of a Jersey connection? It Younghusband in preparation for the seems that Sir George and Lady latter’s expedition into Tibet in 1903/4 Macartney, having retired from the civil and by the Viceroy, Lord Curzon, in service (probably in the late 1920s helping to formulate British strategy in or1930s) opted for a life of comparative central Asia. seclusion, away from the limelight of Throughout the 1880s and 90s and British society. They purchased a flat in up to two years after , Jersey. For some reason (probably Macartney, now regarded as the central because he became ill) he was evidently character in the region, both for “trapped” in Jersey by the German military intelligence and for possessing Occupation and is listed as having died all the latest knowledge concerning the there at the age of 78 on May 19th incredible treasures that were being 1945, just a few days after Liberation discovered and evacuated through Day. One obituary shows his address in Kashgar by the British, German, Jersey as 4 Overseas, Dicq Road in St Japanese and French, was, himself, Savior. This was what one would crucial to British foreign policy in the currently view as a cross between a region. Certain extremely valuable respectable flat and a retirement home. manuscripts were named after him and It was owned by the Sowden family he saw fit to purchase, for his country, and, ironically only a hundred yards many ancient Buddhist works of art from where I grew up in a house called uncovered from the desert regions to Leighton in Dicq Road. Evidently he the east. Macartney also masterminded had three children, Eric, Sylvia and all clandestine operations and Robin. It would be interesting to find consolidated the resulting intelligence. out if there is more to this story. Could His network of spies were known as there still be people on the island who Aksakals and resided in nearly all of the knew him? References to this George surrounding towns. He dealt expertly Macartney, accessible via the web, and amicably with all his counterparts show vastly disparate information, and and maintained the very best of tend to mix him up with his earlier

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namesake and even spell his name differently. However, a book entitled Macartney at Kashgar – New Light on British, Chinese and Russian Activities in Sinkiang, by Sir Claremont Skrine and Dr. Pamela Nightingale, first published by Methuen and Company Limited in 1973, offers the most accurate account of this remarkable, unorthodox, cordial, popular, modest, astute, tactful and influential man who endured nearly 30 years of difficult circumstances in one of the remotest outposts of the British Empire. Much later, one of Britain’s most famous mountaineers, Eric Shipton, also occupied the position of British Consul in Kashgar. Even today a modern version of the ‘Great Game’ is still being played out in Central Asia. Detailed map of the Kashgar region.

George Macartney on left with Francis Younghusband on right with the of Yarkand in the centre. Taken at Yarkand in 1890.

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DARJEELING AND TEA By Arun Singh Managing Director Goodricke Group Ltd

(This article is a shortened version of a Grant, the Commercial Resident at Malda, piece that appeared in the winter 2009 duly visited Darjeeling. From a report edition of the ‘Camellia Journal’, the dated 18 June 1829, we learn that Lloyd house magazine of Camellia PLC. I am had visited the ‘old Gorkha station called grateful to the Directors of Camellia PLC Darjeeling’ in the February of that year and for permission to reproduce it here. Ed.) ‘was immediately struck with it being well adapted for the purpose of a sanatorium’. The history of Darjeeling is complex. The men also recognised the strategic Originally ruled by the Raja of , the importance of Darjeeling’s location. land we know today as Darjeeling, which Lord Bentinck promptly instructed one lies in the foothills of the Himalayas, was Captain Herbert together with Grant, to the subject of much dispute during the examine and map the area, giving latter part of the eighteenth century. At that particular consideration to its strategic and time Sikkim was engaged in a series of communication benefits. Their report unsuccessful local wars and the Nepalese confirmed the feasibility of establishing a Gorkhas had made significant inroads into sanatorium in Darjeeling and so Lloyd Sikkim territory. British attempts to began negotiations with the Raja of Sikkim prevent the Gorkhas from overrunning the for the transfer of Darjeeling in return for entire northern frontier culminated in the an equivalent sum of money or land. In Anglo-Nepal war of 1814. The Gorkhas 1835, the negotiations were concluded and were defeated in 1816 leading to the treaty Darjeeling was gifted to the British East of Segauli, the terms of which obliged India Company. Nepal to cede all territories it had annexed Essentially the deal was an from the Raja of Sikkim to the East India unconditional cessation of what was then a Company. Two years later, under the treaty worthless uninhabited mountain. The land of Titalia, the East India Company gifted by the Raja was not the whole of reinstated the Raja (whom the Gorkhas had Darjeeling as we know it today, but just a driven out), and restored to him the lands narrow enclave of some 138 square miles, between the Mechi and the Teesta and which included the towns of Darjeeling guaranteed his sovereignty. and Kurseong, with entry and exit being The intervention of the British restricted to a narrow path. In return, the effectively prevented the Gorkhas from Raja received a gift parcel comprising one turning the whole of Sikkim into a double barrelled gun, one rifle, 20 yards of province of Nepal. But stability did not last red broad cloth and two shawls, one of long; ten years later a dispute arose again superior quality and one of inferior quality. between Sikkim and Nepal. The terms of Perhaps not surprisingly, the Raja appeared the Treaty of Titalia meant that the British before the Governor General for Governor General, Lord Bentinck, was compensation and in 1841 it was agreed he called upon to settle the matter, which he would receive an allowance of Rs. 3,000 in turn deputed to a Captain Lloyd. per annum. Captain Lloyd, accompanied by Mr JW

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The bronze Buddha at Badamtam.

Tea in Darjeeling nurseries. Within four years their success Having acquired their tract of land, the led to the cultivation of a further 25 – 20 British transferred Dr Campbell, a civil hectares and by 1864 ten or so gardens surgeon in the Indian Medical Service had been set up. from Kathmandu to Darjeeling in 1839 to Darjeeling tea has worldwide reputation be Superintendent of the new territory and for excellence due to its fine quality and sanatorium. He devoted his energies to the flavour. Here tea is grown in century old task of developing the station and gardens, at elevations of 750 – 2,000 attracting settlers who could cultivate the metres. The bushes thrive on the rich soil, mountain slopes, as well as stimulating nurtured by intermittent rainfall, sunshine trade and commerce. Dr Campbell made and moisture laden mellow mists, whilst his own attempts at cultivation bringing the hilly terrain provides natural drainage China tea seeds from Kumeon, a hill for the district’s generous rainfall. station in northern India, and planted them The high quality results in extremely in his garden. One must presume his low yields with Darjeeling producing only efforts were successful because in 1847 some 10 million kilos of tea a year. The the government decided to plant out tea taste of the teas varies with the seasons – nurseries in the area. the first growth after the dormant winter The first commercial tea gardens were period (known as the first flush) produces established in 1852. These early estates astringent, flavoursome teas, much prized comprised three gardens, Tukvar, Steinthal by some buyers, particularly those in and Aloobari, all of which were planted Germany. But those of the second growth with seeds raised in the government of flush are regarded by many as the finest

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teas, producing as they do a more mature Thurbo and lasting flavour. These teas have a full It is thought that the name of the taste with a hint of muscatel. garden dates back to the nineteenth There are just 86 estates producing century, when the British invading Nepal, Darjeeling tea, covering a total area of set up a camp in what is now the Thurbo only 19,000 hectares and accounting for estate.. ‘Camp’ translates locally as 3% of India’s total tea output. The estates ‘Tombu’, which may have become Thurbo employ more than 52,000 people on a in later years. permanent basis with a further 15,000 Established in 1872 at an altitude of workers being brought in during the between 762 and 1890 metres, Thurbo is plucking season, which lasts from March situated close to the Nepalese border, through to November. nestling in the shadows of the mighty Most of the workers are women and Kanchenjunga. The nearby orange they are employed on a family basis. Half orchards and orchid farms lend an exotic their income is paid in cash, with the charm to the garden whose teas are balance being provided by way of benefits blessed with an unmatched quality. such as free accommodation, subsidised cereal rations and free medical care. The Badamtam gardens used to run primary schools but Located in the Lebong valley, 14 miles these have now been taken over by the west of Darjeeling Bazaar, the garden was State, although the garden management founded in 1861 by Christine Barnes and continue to maintain the buildings. covers some 351 hectares. Tea is grown between 305 and 1830 metres; the teas are Camellia’s interest in Darjeeling highly prized abroad. Over the years The Camellia Group owns five gardens Badamtam has become a role model for in Darjeeling – Thurbo, Badamtam and other estates with its state-of –the –art Barnesbeg through Goodricke Group Ltd machinery and processing and its high and Castleton and Margaret’s Hope welfare standards. The garden has through Amgoorie India Ltd. The total magnificent views of Kanchenjunga and is area under tea is 1,844.63 hectares and the overlooked by a majestic fourteen foot Gardens’ combined annual output is bronze Buddha sculpted by the renowned around 845,000kgs – these teas being artist Meera Muherjee. amongst some of the finest in Darjeeling. As well as the quality of the tea, the group Barnesbeg places great emphasis on improving the Like Badamtam, Barnes begwas living standards of the workers. There are planted by Christine Barnes between 1858 well equipped hospitals, staffed by and 1877 and is of similar size to qualified medical officers and paramedics, Badamtam but at a lower altitude. with housing, electricity and education for ‘Barnesbeg’ probably derives from Barnes the workers’ children also being areas of ‘bhag’ or garden. high priority. Each of the gardens has its own unique characteristics and a brief Castleton & Springside description of each may be of interest. Castleton is the flagship of Goodricke’s gardens. It was planted by Dr Charles Graham in 1885. The slopes span

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Kurseong, Pankhabari and the Hillcart them especially around the garden’s own roads. Originally known as ‘Kumseri’, small lake. The name ‘Margaret’s Hope’ Castleton derives its name from a building was given to the garden in 1927 by the in Kurseong which looks like a castle and then owner, Mr Cruikshank. His daughter exists to this day. Castleton’s teas are Margaret, enchanted by the beauty of the highly prized by connoisseurs and royalty garden, was deeply attached to the place. in , Japan and the Middle East. At On leaving for England she vowed to 146 hectares, Springside is one of the return but tragically died on board ship Group’s smaller gardens. The name from a tropical disease. Hence her father derives from the loss of an early christened the garden in her memory. manager’s baby whose grave is located close to a spring which waters the This is a brief overview of the Group’s graveside garden which is still maintained interests in Darjeeling. As guardians of today. estates that have lasted well over a century, Camellia’s ongoing investment Margaret’s Hope should ensure the continued fruitfulness of This garden was planted about a these estates for many years to come. century ago at an altitude of between 915 and 1830 metres. Salamanders inhabit this estate and great pains are taken to preserve

The Royal Society for Asian Affairs Interested in Asia? The Society’s aim is to promote greater knowledge and understanding of the countries of Asia, present and recent past, from the Near East to the Pacific Rim. We are an active and friendly organisation with fortnightly lecture meetings in London, social functions, overseas tours at roughly annual intervals, thrice-yearly publication of a much respected Journal Asian Affairs, a library of over 5000 books for members’ use and an archive collection whose catalogue is accessible via our website. There is a Junior Members’ Section for under 25 year olds and the Society administers the annual Sir Peter Holmes Memorial Award to encourage young people aged 18-25 to travel with purpose in Asia. Membership enquiries are invited to: The Secretary, RSAA, 2 Belgrave Square, London SW1X 8PJ Telephone: +44(0)20-7235 5122 Fax: +44(0)20-7259 6771 Email: [email protected] Website: www.rsaa.org.uk

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AUTISM IN NEPAL By Dr Sunita Maleku Amatya and Kalphana Ghimire

Autistic disorder (autism; more recently The prevalence of autism in Nepal is described as "mindblindedness") is a unknown as no authentic study has been lifelong neurological and developmental conducted in this region. disorder. Autistic children often have AutismCare Nepal is a very small problems in communication, avoid eye organization started by parents of a nine contact, and show limited attachment to year old autistic child on 2nd April 2008, others and appears to live in his/her own on the auspicious occasion of the World world, showing little interest in others, Autism Awareness Day. It is the only and a lack of social awareness. The cause active autism organization in Nepal that of autism is not known. Research is run by passionate parents that care for suggests that autism is a genetic autistic children. We provide support and condition. Reports from USA suggest that information services to persons and their about one in 100 children has an autism families with autism. We would like to spectrum disorder. Autism is more work with organizations worldwide to prevalent in boys than girls, with four share information, resources and assist times as many boys affected than girls. families and children at a national and Specialized behavioural and international level. We intend to educate, educational programs are designed to to increase awareness and act for the treat autism. Special education programs rights of autistic children throughout that are highly structured focus on Nepal. Initial work was started with developing social skills, speech, distributing brochures about autism and language, self-care, and job skills. writing newspaper articles. A proposal to Preventive measures to reduce the survey on the population of autistic incidence or severity of autistic disorders children is underway. The text for a are not known at this time. Nepali brochure has been completed and Nepal has been known to the world as text for a booklet on guidelines for the land of , and birth parents of autistic children is being place of Lord Buddha and the land of the reviewed. Gurkhas. Landlocked between the two Our immediate goal is to set up a giants of Asia, the country has under school for autistic children targeting their gone series of unpredictable political specialized behavioural and educational upheavals. The country is still struggling programmes with individualized for basic human and medical needs. The treatment plans to develop social skills, struggle for physical health in the country speech, language, self-care, and job is still in a very infantile state and the skills. We have rented a house for two psychological health has been totally years and are now furnishing the rooms. neglected. The rent is £500 pounds per month which Autism is a distant stranger in Nepal, for now is being paid by the parents of even to the medical fraternity. A person autistic children. We have enthusiastic with autism is most probably left speech therapists but lack special undiagnosed, and ends up in a mental techniques and experience for working institute or is hidden in the darkest corner with autistic children. We also lack of the house away from the social world. educators and occupational therapists. We

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need your support to support children AutismCare Nepal, PO Box 10918, with autism in any manner such as fund Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Nepal raising, making a donation or volunteering. If not we will be also happy (On a recent visit to Nepal I met the if you all could include our children in founder of Autismcare Nepal, Dr Hem your daily prayers. Please check our Sagar Baral, the founder and former chief website www.autismnepal.org for further executive officer of Bird Conservation information. We would be grateful for Nepal (BCN). It was his daughter referred any support you could provide. to in the text above. Ed.)

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HIMAL SOUTHASIAN

Himal Southasian is a monthly news and current affairs magazine which is published in Kathmandu. Originally it dealt only with Nepal but due to its increasing success it now covers the SAARC / South Asian region. The editors consider this to be a ‘review magazine’ that contains longer and more analytical articles, two of which are reproduced in this edition of the Britain – Nepal Society Journal by kind permission of the editor.

www.himalmag.com

Subscription: 1 year US$ 40 2 years US$ 72

Mailing address: GPO Box 24393, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: + 977 1 5547279 Fax: + 977 1 5552141

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FROM THE EDITOR’S IN-TRAY

Honours and Awards from the University of Hull in England 2 RGR Battle Group received one MC, and an LLB from Tribhuvan University, two QCVSs and nine mentions in Nepal. despatches as a result of their six month Commenting on his appointment, tour of duty in Afghanistan. Professor Subedi said: “I am delighted The Society congratulates Mrs Pratima and honoured by the trust and confidence Pande, President of the Nepal – Britain placed in me by such a high level UN Society on her appointment as an MBE body in recognition of my work in the for services to Anglo-Nepali relations. field of international and human rights law.” He added that “It is a huge privilege Professor Surya Subedi OBE and an opportunity to make my The Society congratulates Professor contribution as an independent expert to Subedi on his appointment by the United enhance the human rights situation in Nations as Human Rights Envoy for Cambodia. I very much look forward to Cambodia. The press release announcing working with the government and the this is shown below: people of Cambodia.” The UN Human Rights Council has He went on to say that: “Such a high appointed a Nepali Professor as the next level UN appointment is a matter of UN Special Rapporteur for human rights honour and pride not only for me in Cambodia. The Council voted personally but also for the people and the unanimously to endorse the nomination country of Nepal. As the UN mandate made by the President of the Human holder in Cambodia, I will do my utmost Rights Council to appoint Professor Surya to discharge my responsibilities as P. Subedi at its meeting in Geneva effectively as possible.” yesterday (March 25). The Council Since this is a non-residential consists of 47 member States elected by appointment Professor Subedi would be the UN General Assembly. working for the UN from his university in Speaking at the meeting of the Council England and visit Cambodia to monitor in Geneva after the Council decision to the human rights situation there and report appoint Professor Subedi, the Cambodian to the UN Human Rights Council. ambassador to the UN welcomed the appointment of Professor Subedi and Lieutenant Colonel Andrew Mercer expressed the willingness of his The article in the last edition of the government to cooperate with him in journal concerning the late Lt Col Andrew discharging his responsibilities as an Mercer provoked some comment. independent human rights law expert. Nicholas Rhodes writes of Andrew Dr Subedi is Professor of International Mercer: ‘He had a walk-on part in Satyajit and Human Rights Law at the University Ray’s film Kanchenjunga, and many of Leeds in England. He also is a Barrister people remember him ‘walking erect’ in in England, an Advocate in Nepal, and that film like the archetypal British holds a doctoral degree in international gentlemen that he was. It made him quite law from the University of Oxford, a a star. A photograph of Andrew Mercer Master of Laws degree with Distinction appears in the book my wife and I

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authored, Man of the Frontier S W Laden The Tom Hughes Family Trust La (1876-1936): His Life and Times in The trust is still continuing its work in Darjeeling and Tibet - the biography of Dharan. An annual newsletter is published her grandfather. The picture is with a and can be obtained by email from: group of Sherpas at a reunion on the [email protected]. Older occasion of a visit to Darjeeling by members from Dharan days will General Bruce.’ (This book was reviewed remember the BMH Wardmaster later the in ‘Asian Affairs’ and reproduced in the Admin Officer, Ranjitsing Rai and his last edition of the journal. Ed.) wife Doma. They are now in their eighties Lt Col J P Cross writes: ‘I was but remain well and active. Major David interested in reading about Andrew Bannister’s last newsletter mentioned a Mercer whom I met in 1951. I learnt that ‘clock tower’ in the centre of Dharan he was offered to be an OBE (civil) for Bazaar. Apparently it is a copy of the old his services in Darjeeling, but he declined clock tower on the Kowloon waterfront, as he feared that the Indian authorities erected by former Gurkha soldiers as a might think it an award for being a spy.’ monument to their fallen comrades.

The Vulture Crisis Readers of the journal will already be aware of the ‘crash’ in the numbers of vultures across the Sub-continent as a result of feeding on cattle treated with diclofenac. In India the captive vulture programme has bred two slender-billed vultures, a first captive breeding success. In Nepal 44 Oriental white-backed vultures have been collected for a future captive breeding programme. The leading conservation organisations involved are RSPB, ZSL, Bird Conservation Nepal (BCN) and the Nepal Trust for Nature Conservation (the former King Mahendra Trust). BCN have established ‘vulture restaurants’ near Lumbini, Dang and Nawalparasi. All these sites are situated near the East – West Highway and are open for tourists and birdwatchers to visit. The restaurants provide a source of diclofenac free meat which is fed to the vultures in the area. Aged cattle that are known to be free of diclofenac are purchased from their owners and looked after till they die naturally. A recent survey carried out by BCN at Nawalparasi indicates that at least 42 nests have been The Dharan clock tower. identified and more are expected. On a

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recent extensive visit to Nepal, the only 08 Oct 10 - Slaughter with a Smile. A vultures noted, apart from those in the review of military operations from breeding aviary at Kasara , were those in Crecy to Op Herrick. Major Gordon the area of the Nawalparasi restaurant. Corrigan. Details of lectures and of the ‘The Friends of can be The Gurkha Museum in 2010 found at the Gurkha Museum website The Museum’s summer exhibition will www.thegurkhamuseum.co.uk run from 7th August to 5th September 2010, entitled Faith, Food and Fashion in Nepal. A series of lectures are scheduled: 18 Mar 10 - The Devil’s Wind. With Dr Richard Holmes. Theme is the Indian Mutiny. 16 Apr 10 - The Assault on Kanchenjunga 1955. Major Tony Streather. 11 Jun 10 - Pakistan’s Regional Role with Afghanistan and India.

Britain-Nepal Chamber Of Commerce

Patron: H.E. Mr Murari Raj Sharma. President: Rt. Hon. Sir John Nott, KCB Vice President: Colonel J.M. Evans MC. Chairman: Mr Anthony Wieler Vice-Chairman: Mr Mahanta Shrestha

The Chamber encourages two way trade between the and Nepal. It acts as an interface through ,formal and informal meetings, for those seeking to develop contacts and trade and always welcomes new members with similar aims.

The Secretary Britain-Nepal Chamber of Commerce Tamesis House Tel.. +44 (0)20 8330 6446 Fax: +44 (0)20 8330 7447 35 St Philip's Avenue Email: [email protected] Worcester Park Website: nepal-trade.org.uk Surrey KT4 8JS

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REVIEW ARTICLE

John Pemble. Britain’s Gurkha War ‘“To respected Ean Ramsay, the great- –The Invasion of Nepal, 1814 – 16. great-great-grandson of General Frontline Books, an imprint of Pen & Ochterlony from the great-great-great- Sword Books Ltd. Barnsley, S. Yorks, grandcousin of Bhakti . Two UK. 2008. pp. xv + 398. B&W plates. hundred years ago we were enemies, now Maps. Appx. Bibliog. Index. Hb. £19.99. we are friends." ISBN 978 1 84832 520 3. This was written on the back of a This work was originally published in painting of especially 1971 under the title of The Invasion of commissioned in Nepal by my surrogate Nepal – John Company at War by the Nepali hill man son, Buddhiman Gurung, Clarendon Press, Oxford. It had become to Ean Ramsay, the last direct descendant difficult to obtain with a cost of up to of the Great Man. Buddhiman, his wife $100 or more. Although the original price and I gave it to Ean Ramsay when we met was £4.50, thought to be expensive by its him in England in 1994. then reviewer Sir Olaf Caroe in the Royal In my view, and I have lived with Society of Asian Affairs journal, Asian Gurkhas, militarily from 1944 and in Affairs, its scarcity had turned it into Nepal from 1976, almost one-third of the something of a collectors’ item. The time of the British-Gurkha connection, it author, John Pemble, had completed a says it all. In straightforward un-poetical spell as a civilian instructor at the Royal words, it captures the mystical dimension Military Academy Sandhurst (now a of the result of the Anglo-Nepal War senior research fellow at which John Pemble so vividly and University) and used this topic for accurately describes in this book, arguably research which led to initial publication. the best written and easiest to read book Lt Col John Cross was approached by on this subject ever produced. Frontline Books for suggestions for any I have read widely and am of the books on Nepal and the Gurkhas that opinion that, had Nepal's army had the they could publish. Cross recommended same resources as had the East India that this work be re-published. John Company and the 'Royal', British, Army, Cross, a member of the Society, is artillery piece for artillery piece, elephant possibly the pre-eminent authority on the for elephant et cetera, the British would history and languages of Nepal. He is the not have prevailed. But prevail they did: author of many books on the history of the one column that beat the Gorkhas was the Gurkhas and Nepal having served in in 'naya muluk' – 'the new country' – Brigade of Gurkhas throughout his chiefly in Kumaon and Garhwal; the three service life since 1944, finally retiring to columns that were beaten back from a few live and study there. He was asked to timorous toe-holds in the Tarai failed to write a forward for the re-launched book achieve anything positive. Apart from the re-titled Britain’s Gurkha War –The incursion up to Makwanpur (and the Invasion of Nepal 1814 – 16, which is Chinese incursion of 1792), Nepal's reproduced below: heartland cultural, religious and territorial virginity is still unsullied.

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There is no doubt that Ochterlony was sentiments as expressed by the Sikh, an excellent commander but as a civil Mokhan Chand, in 1809 when Ochterlony administrator he was not popular: This is moved from Delhi to compel the Sikh borne out in letters written by William durbar to give up its recent conquests, 'It Linnaeus Gardner, 1770-1835, founder of is better to die in honour than to live in Gardner’s Horse, still an Indian Army unit shame' and later by the Afghan Muzaffar now designated 2nd Lancers (Gardner’s Khan, defender of Multan in 1818, 'It is Horse). In a letter dated 16 September more honourable to die fighting than to 1820 he wrote: ‘I have no hesitation in capitulate without firing a shot'. saying that the English name is at present But it is pertinent to ask if, in fact, such disgraced. … I wish for the sake of his a motto was 'binding'? No: the Gorkha character, that Sir David would die.’ In an commander, Bal Bhadra (Bahadur) undated and earlier letter he wrote: ‘Sir Kunwar (a.k.a.Thapa, Singh), at Kalunga David is very unpopular here with all (Nala Pani), gained immortality in natives and all Europeans. Skinner [of Nepalese annals by his bravery. His name Skinner’s Horse fame] told him on taking is on the reverse of the same memorial leave that it was a pity he (Sir D) had not that was erected to Gillespie. Nepalese died 16 years ago, for then he would not history is silent that Bal Bhadra left the have left a dry eye in Delhi, but that now , fighting after the battle of Kalunga and were he to die, there would be public Nepalko Sainik Itihas (Nepal's Military rejoicings, and the dhole [drums] would History), published by Headquarters of the resound in every house!!!’ (The Gardner Royal Nepal Army, 1992, has it that such Papers, NAM 6305-56). information only came from the British. I have walked well over ten thousand William Moorcroft, Chief of Stud at Pusa, miles in Nepal, am known to many and recorded in his journal, D248/59ff, that he have spoken to thousands of . It is saw Bal Bhadra killed as he led a Gurkha striking that the motto, 'It is better to die battalion of Ranjit Singh's army that than be a coward', reputedly the motto that attacked the Afghans near Attock, in 1824. has become the motto of all Gurkha And much more recently, in 1996, the soldiers to this day, has never once been request for the required 'constitution' to set mentioned. This is, I believe, because it up a Gurkha Museum in Kathmandu was never was the hill man's motto. Certainly, turned down by the Chief District Officer, the hill Gurkha, like everyone else, does his reason being that he would do nothing not want to lose. What the hill man will to help turncoats. say is that, once there seems no hope of People ask why the Governor General staying alive, that is when one can fight of the time did not do more against Nepal without worrying about one's life. I do than was the case. While this is fully not know the originator of the quotation explained by Pemble, it is fair to say that, but Kaji Amarsing Thapa, a relation of had he, without doubt the remarkable , the prime minister, who relations the British and the Nepalis have started the Anglo-Nepal War and who also had since the war would never have lost it, is reputed to have used the saying. fructified in the way they have. Of a Amarsing seems not to have approved of truth, the opposite would have been true. the war but, not wanting to appear against One proud Nepali boast is that it is still the most powerful man in Kathmandu, one of the very few countries in Asia that echoed, but did not originate similar was never a colony, albeit the

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Government to its south did affect its British officers, the friendliness of the behaviour. British soldiers and their own obvious Ochterlony's victory was in a minor superiority to the men from the plains, war against a people unknown to those in made them realise, probably for the first England. Only on India's northern time ever, their value as fighting men. marches were the Nepalis (or Gorkhalis, This factor still pertains. As an aside, as they were often called) known about. Bhakti Thapa's weapons are in a cave at When the news of Ochterlony's victory the top of a steep mountain and are still eventually did reach England, the worshipped twice a year and the language euphoria of Napoleon's defeat was still of the prayers is that of the now-dead heady in military circles. Its significance language of the Duras, Bhakti's mother and long-term implications were totally tongue. At last count I saw that there lost in England. And yet, today, not so far were eight swords and five scimitars. off the two-hundredth anniversary of the Since being soldiers in the Indian and Britain-Nepal connection, more respect is British armies, the Gurkhas' record has paid to the hill man Gurkha than, again been and is unsurpassed. Just three probably, to the vanquished of Waterloo. examples from modern times: without Prior to the war, the tactics used in 'the them the land war in Burma would not new country' between 1790 and 1814 have been won in 1945, maybe never; the were sedulously copied by the Emergency in Malaya and Confrontation Revolutionaries in the opening years of in Borneo would have rumbled on for the civil war that started in the Far West many more years, probably of Nepal in 1996 but this time the inconclusively; and, with much panache opposition to such was insufficient to curb and efficiency, in Afghanistan and Iraq. it – the government of the day could not On another level, too, even when the use artillery against its own people. 1st of Foot was no longer on the British Another similarity is that, in both cases, Army's Order of Battle, the Gurkhas, one man from each house, willy-nilly, had albeit fewer in number, were retained. to serve the army that was trying to And not only that: the Gurkha soldier has expand territorially. Likewise, the a worldwide reputation of doing that bit problems that were engendered by a 'baby extra for longer and at a higher standard king' in 1814 have, sadly in my view, than, probably, any other soldier. A high been all too frequent between then and standard brings its own penalty of now. expectation and, luckily for Britain and Those whom Ochterlony was fighting independent India, Gurkhas are fully against were only partly men from confident and able to maintain that heartland Nepal. The rigour of the standard to an almost mystical dimension. discipline and hardships encountered had Even so, please read on from here. the effect of many of them deserting, first Pemble's explicit and engaging writing to Ranjit Singh's army in Lahore and later shows how, against all expectations, this to the British. Although there was no mystical dimension started.’ proof of this, I believe that those men JP Cross from heartland Nepal thought that the British would be able to take them back to The book has attracted reviews from both their home areas. They were disappointed Col Dennis Wood and Brig Bullock, both in that but the paternalistic attitude of the experienced historians of the Brigade of

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Gurkhas, having been serving officers of the Nepalese army out of the territories the Brigade and trustees of the Gurkha they had occupied and when this did not Museum. curb Nepal’s militaristic tendencies by invading Nepal itself. Clearing the Brig Bullock writes: Nepalese out of the territories they had occupied was a major undertaking ‘This scholarly and erudite book involving large numbers of King’s Service throws a particularly interesting slant on British troops and East India Company the causes of The Anglo –Nepal war and sepoys but even so met with mixed the warrior state of Nepal which provoked success most of the columns being it as well as covering the war itself in baulked by the determined Gurkha fascinating detail. Most books about the resistance. Fortunately in General causes of the war tend to follow the line Ochterlony, his energy in no way abated that because Nepal had occupied by the possession of two Indian wives and territories claimed by the British East numerous progeny, the British had a India Company war resulted whereas leader of real quality in stark contrast to Pemble looks much deeper in his quest some of his fellow column commanders. for the reasons behind it which were His column’s victory in the first campaign complex and owed as much to was enough to convince the Nepalese to personalities as politics . He also diverges agree to a negotiated settlement which from the commonly held view that the they subsequently renounced believing, ruling class of Nepal originated from the erroneously, that the British were over admixture of Rajputs fleeing north to extended. avoid the Mogul invasion of India and Ochterlony’s masterly conduct of the Nepal’s ethnic Mongolian inhabitants and second campaign, the invasion of Nepal predates them to a much earlier stage in itself, was a desperate race against the the . This well researched onset of monsoon conditions and makes and thought provoking work makes clear for compulsive reading. This second that the Anglo-Nepal War of 1814-16 was campaign, no longer bedevilled by the fundamental to the subsequent relations foibles and inadequacies of fellow between the two countries leading to the commanders, showed just how quickly recruitment of the hillmen of Nepal, the Ochterlony had transformed his East India Gurkhas first by the British in India and Company army after the first bitter subsequently their employment separately experience of being confronted by the by Britain and India. formidable fighting power of the Gurkha In 1814 Nepal was a warlike army and its charismatic leaders. What expansionist state whose highly efficient distinguished the fighting throughout was army had already invaded Tibet and now that despite its severity both sides occupied the sensitive North West Indian behaved with exceptional civility in states of Kumaon and Garhwal .Already regard to prisoners and wounded founded embroiled elsewhere with Sikhs and on a mutual respect that has continued to Maharattas it was a tricky situation for the the present day. surrogate of British power,The Colonel John Cross who writes the Honourable East India Company and it Foreword is probably the greatest living took drastic, if reluctant military steps to expert on the Gurkha state having spent solve it. At first it limited itself to driving his entire adult life with them first as a

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Gurkha officer and then as an inhabitant at Bristol University and once on the staf f of Nepal itself. It is thus not surprising at Sandhurst is an historian and author of that he sets the scene so subtly for this wide interests and considerable skill. Here fascinating book.’ he describes the invasion of Nepal with clarity and accuracy in just over half the Col Wood writes: book’s content, and adds extra value by devoting almost a third of the book to ‘The Nepal War could have been of setting the scene in some detail for about very little interest to the British public at 50 years or more prior to 1814. In this the time. It was fought in a remote part of lead-in he gives lucid and interesting the world where British interests were descriptions and comments on the Gurkha then controlled and managed by the people, their depredations and annexation Honourable East India Company (HEIC), of their neighbours’ lands, their quarrel motivated as a trading organisation, rather with the British the geography and the than by the British Government. Even the truth about Himalayan trade and the HEIC’s hierarchy knew very little about Bengal army. His analysis of of the size Nepal, and no one could have foreseen and state of the Company’s and British the war’s future effects. Moreover it must forces over several decades is an eye- have been eclipsed by the threat from the opener and very helpful to a reader trying nearby French betes noires with their to understand why they often performed chief ogre’s escape from Elba and the poorly during the operations of 1814-16. crucial battle of Waterloo taking place in Officers and men: their numbers, morale, the middle of it. Yet its consequences, organisation, dress, equipment, pay, unimaginable at the time, have been of promotion systems, age and service, huge value to both Britain and Nepal. training and the enervating effects of the From it have followed 200 years of Indian climate are among the topics alliance and friendship between the two covered and they make fascinating nations which provided peace in an reading. important frontier region of India and Although the Nepal war brought extraordinary military support for Britain British victory in the end, it was a sorry ever since, including the long hard times tale of many military failures. John of two World Wars beside the Indian Pemble describes the strategy and tactics, Mutiny of 1857-58 when the going was the problems caused by immensely also tough. In short, Britain has gained difficult terrain, and the qualities of incalculable value from Gurkha soldiers people on both sides including those of who have been enlisted for service under the opposing commanders (most of the the Crown since 1815. Even now the senior British ones proving to be inept). has nearly 4,500 Gurkhas in There are good descriptions of the its infantry, engineer, signals and logistics invading columns, their opponents and forces. In return, Nepal has also had great their success and failures; although it is a benefit from the inward flow of money, pity that the black & white maps show education and training of its people and only the basic geography and not the an external source of employment for a columns’ routes or the sites of their country where jobs were once few except actions. The Bengal Army and the British in domestic agriculture and basic trades. regiments revealed major shortcomings in Dr Pemble, a Senior Research Fellow several ways for mountain warfare in

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inaccessible places. But fortunately for everyone interested in Gurkhas and in Britain, as is often the case, most of the India should have for reference but good officers and men endured hardship, reading and excellent value for money as dangerous living and fighting with well.’ admirable courage and fortitude. They were said to have suffered 3,000 battle As both the reviews above fully casualties besides 2,000 lost from demonstrate, there is a great deal of very sickness and desertion. Importantly, the detailed information contained within this book also describes the circumstances and work. Members who attended will long origins of recruiting those Gurkhas and remember Pemble’s thought provoking other hillmen who formed the 1st & 2nd lecture that he delivered to the Society in Nusseree, Sirmoor and Kemaoon March. He postulated that at the time the Battalions in April 1815; three of which British were, may be subconsciously, later became the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Gurkha looking for heroes as their empire Rifles. One of those original recruits was developed across the world. The text of senior Subedar in the Sirmoor Battalion, the lecture has been printed in the during the Indian Mutiny 42 years later. November 2009 edition of Asian Affairs, This is a definitive account of a the journal of the Royal Society for Asian relatively obscure war from which sprang Affairs. This is not a book to read on a the shoots of that wonderful alliance and flight to Kathmandu. It deserves serious friendship between Britain and Nepal study and will serve as an outstanding which has been of huge benefit to both source for reference for the origins of the countries for nearly 200 years. It is not British – Gurkha connection and the only a splendid historical record which history of that time.

THE GURKHA MUSEUM PENINSULA BARRACKS ROMSEY ROAD, WINCHESTER HAMPSHIRE SO23 8TS Tel: (01962) 842832 Fax: (01962) 877597 THE UNIQUE AND EXCITING GURKHA STORY Open: MON-SAT 10am - 4.30pm SUN 12 - 4pm Registered Charity No. 272426

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SHORT REVIEWS

A Boy from Siklis – The Life and (This work is readily available in Times of Chandra Gurung. By Pilgrims Book Store, Thamel, Manjushree Thapa. Penguin Books, Kathmandu. Ed.) India. 2009. Pp 226. Pb. NCR 400 (ICR 250). ISBN 978-0-1430-6548-7. Britain’s Gurkhas. By Christopher Bullock. Third Millennium Publishing, In September 2006, a helicopter crash in London. 2009. Pp 320. Hb. £45. Over 200 east Nepal claimed the lives of both illustrations. ISBN 978-1-906507-27-5. Nepalese and foreign environmentalists on their way to the Kanchenjunga This work was launched at the Gurkha Conservation Area. The foremost of those Museum on 10th November 2009, too killed that day was Dr Chandra Gurung. late for a full review in the journal. This (See p.37 of Journal No 30 of 2006. Ed.) is a major definitive piece on the Manjushree Thapa, who for a time Gurkhas and their history of the unique worked with Dr Gurung, has written a connection with UK. Below is a quote sensitive biography of his life along with from Third Millennium’s own material the background to the early work on that advertises the book, which I fully conservation in Nepal. She has endorse. researched his childhood in the Gurung ‘Ranging from 18th century India to village of Siklis and how by sheer hard 21st century Afghanistan, this new, work and enthusiasm, he rose to lead highly illustrated authorised history of Nepal’s most successful conservation the Brigade of Gurkhas is destined to project – the Annapurna Conservation become the definitive work on the Area Project (ACAP). That a man from subject. In this account, the whole this background was able to achieve the panorama of the Brigade’s unique history necessary high academic qualifications is covered from the early 19th century to and rise to lead a conservation the present day, including the tense organisation (the King Mahendra Trust – moments when the continued existence now the National Trust for Nature of the Brigade hung by the slenderest of Conservation in Nepal) under royal threads. As well as being a thoroughly patronage and eventually head Nepal’s researched and accurate account, there WWF programme is a tribute to his are plenty of instances of Gurkha humour abilities both as a leader and a diplomat. shining through amidst battle and This work makes fascinating reading for adversity. It is highly readable and also all those who have an interest in takes full advantage of the unique Himalayan conservation and is a fitting archives of the Gurkha Museum. With tribute to his memory. Sadly his loss, the invaluable help of the Curator and with those others on that day, has Archivist, the book is lavishly illustrated profoundly set back future work on the with pictures, photographs and maps, environment in Nepal. many never seen outside the Museum.’ GDB General Sir David Richards, KCB, CBE, DSO ADC Gen, Colonel Commandant Brigade of Gurkhas writes in

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the Forward: ‘I wholeheartedly commend town. Over the years Harish kept a diary Brigadier Bullock’s book as our authorised and it is on this that he bases the book. history to anyone who wishes to know He is a thoughtful person who has had to more about our splendid soldiers.’ make some difficult decisions for his GDB family. He has had to overcome many problems that face immigrant families Johnnie Gurkha’s is with me. By Hari and he tells this with sensitivity. Also he Bivor Karki. Arthur H Stockwell Ltd, has played a significant part in helping Ilfracombe, Devon. 2009. Pp 232. Pb. his fellow Nepalese as they sought to £6.99. ISBN 978-0-7223-3997-8. establish themselves into new, and to them, strange surroundings. His story Hari Bivor Karki or Harish Karki to makes interesting reading, especially Society members has written his when immigration is currently so topical. autobiography to date. The book tells his I recommend this work to the Society. story from his birth in Okhaldunga in the GDB hills of east Nepal in 1945 to the present (The book was released on 21st day as a successful restauranteur in December 2009. Ed.) Aldershot. His family moved down to Biratnagar so that they could provide a Kathmandu Valley Style. By Lisa better education than was then obtainable Choegyal et al. Serindia. Hb. Cost £40 in the hills at that time. In 1961 Harish appx. enlisted into the Brigade of Gurkhas, joining the Gurkha Engineers. After only This a ‘coffee table’ format recently six years service he had to return home published by Serindia. It has an excellent as his father had become seriously ill. He choice of architectural pictures taken of then had to seek out other forms of an eclectic selection of both modern and employment. Having completed an traditional buildings in the Kathmandu engineering degree he worked for a time Valley which have been well produced. on the construction of the then new East- These include the British ambassador’s West Highway that was being built with residence, the Kakani bungalow, Lisa’s assistance from various international own house in Budanilkantha, as well as agencies. Later he joined the National Rana palaces and modern structures. It is Cadet Corps as boxing instructor and was available through Amazon. responsible for training both the army GDB and the police. During this time he started working part time at the Soaltee The Crown of Renown – Gurkhas and Hotel in the catering department to the Honourable East India Company: supplement his income. Harish had 1819-1857/8. By Lt Col JP Cross. discovered a new interest and one that Hallmark Press International. 7 would take him to UK, as the first Greenway Gardens, Croydon, UK. Pb. Nepalese restaurants were then opening £19.95 ISBN 978-1-906459-38-3. up. Eventually he opened his own restaurant, ‘Johnnie Gurkha’s’, in The latest in John Cross’s series of Aldershot which became a very well historic novels was released on 4th known place to eat in this busy garrison December 2009.

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(Hallmark Press see hallmarkpress@ and Nepal on collision course and the googlemail.com). The work covers the start of the British-Gurkha connection in period of early contact with Nepal by the 1746 – 1815. This latter work is due to East India Company [Known as ‘John be re-published in UK by the Blenheim Company’ - even in the early 1960s Press in 2010. Cross plans two further Indian rupees were being traded in Nepal novels. The next, The Fame of the Name, near the border areas with India and still will cover the period to 1947 with the referred to as ‘Company rupees’. Ed.] up last to cover 1947 to date, entitled The to the Indian Mutiny. This follows his Fire of Desire. other historic novels, The Throne of GDB Stone and The Restless Quest – Britain

THE ARCHIVIST

Mrs Celia Brown has agreed to take on the Society over the period 1960 to 2010 the task of collecting archival material to commemorate the Society’s fiftieth and in obtaining where possible, brief anniversary in 2010. Archival material memoirs. She would like to hear from will play an important part in the anyone who may wish to contribute. production of this publication. However, in the first instance she would appreciate it if members could let her Her address is: 1 Allen Mansions, Allen know what they have available. The Street, London W8 6UY and editor of the journal and the committee email:[email protected] are planning to produce a short history of

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OBITUARIES

pound of sausages often found its way onto the Edwards’ table! After a brief spell with the States of Jersey, he did national service with the Queen’s Own Royal West Kent Regiment and then joined Lloyds bank, Tonbridge Wells before being transferred to Sweden, a posting he found more convivial. Dreaming of seeing more of the world, and always the adventurer, Jim drove overland on a Saab car promotion, through Europe, the Middle East, and the Indian sub-continent before arriving in Nepal in May 1962. Enraptured by the splendours of the country, he decided this was where he wanted to live. Travel further afield was put on hold and he A.V. Jim Edwards spent a year exploring the Terai jungles, Jim Edwards, who died recently in hunting, and fishing, largely in the remote Kathmandu, was one of the pioneers of Karnali region in far west Nepal. Jim also tourism in Nepal, along with his friends worked around this time with the new Boris Lissanevitch and Colonel Jimmy USAID Mission in Kathmandu, managing Roberts. A far-sighted man, gifted with logistics. luck and charisma, Jim had the vision to In 1964, Jim teamed up with American see the future for conservation-based anthropologist turned wildlife ecologist, wildlife tourism, in the Himlayan Dr Charles (Chuck) McDougal and started mountains and jungles that he loved, long the first wildlife tourism company, Nepal before the concept of “ecotourism” came Wildlife Adventure, to operate jungle into being. treks, fishing and hunting expeditions. It A.V. Jim Edwards was born 24th was the beginning of a long and November 1935 in Hampshire, England, distinguished career in the travel industry. before moving to Jersey, Channel Islands In 1969, with his mind set on learning when he was thirteen after the early death more about the travel trade, Jim enrolled of his mother. He was educated in in the Pan American World Airways England then on the island. His father, Management Training Course, in New Slim, served in the RAF during the York. In his absence, Chuck McDougal Second World War and spent much of his continued to run Nepal Wildlife life at sea. In his teenage years, Jim was Adventure, while Jim in return, was able an adventurous youth and enjoyed sailing to send many clients to their company and swimming as well as representing from the US and Europe. Finishing his Jersey with friend Charles Maine in course, he worked for Pan Am in Sales, badminton. His first job was as a delivery Marketing, and Public Relations in New boy for a St. Helier butcher and an illicit York City for three years.

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In Kathmandu, there was a small company in South Asia. Jim’s last major community of foreigners who all knew project was the establishment of a each other. On a tip-off from Boris permanent lodge on Prince Charles’s Lissanevitch, Nepal’s pioneer hotelier, Jim “Royal Trek” route operated by Mountain heard of Tiger Tops a small camp in the Travel in 1980. Jim’s eldest son, Kristjan, Chitwan rhino reserve that was in need of supervised the project. Sir Edmund Hillary improved management. Elected a fellow of opened Tiger Mountain Lodge in the prestigious Explorer’s Club in New 1998. York in 1967, Jim met the owners of Tiger Seeing the effective manner in which Tops, Texan millionaires and big game tourism, carefully and sensitively managed, hunters, Herb Klein and Toddy Lee could be a positive force for conservation, Wynne. At their request, in 1971, Jim and Jim, and his colleagues formed the Chuck McDougal took over the Tiger Tops International Trust for Nature Jungle Lodge that the Texans had built in Conservation, a UK registered charity with the 1960s as a wildlife tourism enterprise a mandate to support conservation in Chitwan where they had enjoyed initiatives around the world. ITNC has hunting safaris. With Chuck’s hard work supported various conservation projects in on the wildlife, his brother, John Edwards, Nepal and India. Jim is widely recognised on the operational side, and Jim’s for his immense contribution to Nepal’s marketing and business flair, they turned tourism industry, setting standards of Tiger Tops into a famous conservation adventure tourism that are admired all over tourism model. Jim used his contacts in Asia. At a time when Nepalese corporate Pan Am and the World Wildlife Fund, to management was in its infancy, Jim’s help lobby the Nepal government to turn constant concern was to provide Chitwan into a National Park and it was opportunity to many Nepalese, often with gazetted in 1973. In 1974, Jim teamed up limited education, and to set the standards with Colonel Jimmy Roberts, the pioneer for caring and inclusive management that of Himalayan trekking who had started remains the hallmark of Tiger Mountain Mountain Travel, the first trekking today. It was a matter of great pride to Jim company in the world. Thus was formed that Mrs Gandhi commented, “Why do we Tiger Mountain, very much Jim’s group of have to look to Nepal to learn how to adventure travel companies throughout manage wildlife tourism lodges.” Nepal and India. Over the 1970s and For his contribution to Nepal’s tourism 1980s, the group of companies included industry, Jim Edwards was the recipient of partnerships with lodges in Madhya many awards and accolades. Jim founded Pradesh, Kashmir, and Karnataka in India, the World Elephant Polo Association in expanded camps in Nepal and activities in 1981 with James Manclark and ran the Sri Lanka. Tiger Mountain pioneered annual World Championships at Meghauli, tourism in and organised early Chitwan, a tribute to his sense of humour, tours in Bhutan and Tibet. A chance marketing acumen, and enjoyment of a fine meeting with explorer, Col. John party. Elephant polo attracted many Blashford-Snell, led to pioneering descents celebrities and further promoted Tiger Tops of Nepal’s Trishuli River in Nepal, as well as raising funds for many charities. resulting in the establishment of Himalayan A man of immense charm and love of River Exploration, the first river running life, Jim could bowl people over with his

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inspirational energy, hospitality, self- meminisse juvabimus – we shall delight in deprecating sense of humour and remembering. monumental generosity. Jim defied Marcus Cotton stereotypes, yet sought an element of conformity, and was immensely pleased to be made an honorary member of the Sir Anthony Hurrell KCVO CMG Sirmoor Club, the regimental association Anthony Hurrell died in April 2009 aged of 2nd Gurkhas and member of the St 82. He had a distinguished career in the Moritz Tobogganing Club. He was civil and diplomatic service. He came, for iconoclastic and did not suffer fools easily. those days, from a relatively humble Indeed his anger, when roused, was famed background and achieved a great deal for its fulminating qualities! Yet, normally, through hard work and application and a he subsided just as quickly. Jim had a sharp sense of duty. He was always surprised eye for a finely turned ankle, and much that he had been promoted and, as was as enjoyed the company of women. In 1970, often the way, he underestimated his own he married Icelandic beauty, Fjola Bender. ability. He was finally appointed Then in 1978, he met Belinda Fuchs at ambassador in Kathmandu from 1983 to Tiger Tops, a zoologist from Switzerland, 1986. His route to the this post was an and they were married in 1983. In later unconventional one since he was not in the years, he lived happily with his devoted diplomatic service prior to his appointment companion Tia Rongsen from Nagaland. in Kathmandu, as all his previous service Jim had four children who were a source of had been in other civil service great pride and comfort to him: two by his departments. He was born in February marriage with Fjola, Kristjan, and Anna 1927 in Norwich, son of a publican and Tara; and two sons by his marriage to was educated at Norwich School and St Belinda, Timothy, and Jack. Catherine’s College, Cambridge. After Jim was passionate about the jungle and national service 1948-50 in the RAEC, he enjoying wild places with friends. He joined the Department of Labour where he fished regularly on several rivers in served for some three years before moving Iceland, where he suffered the first of two to the Ministry of Education for nine strokes in 2004 while fishing with his sons, years. In 1964 he was transferred to the Timothy and Jack. His courage and Ministry of Overseas Development. tenacity in regaining mobility won him During his time there he spent a year as a wide respect. Sadly, in January 2009 he Fellow at the Center for International suffered a second major stroke whilst Affairs, Harvard. In 1972 he was mahseer fishing in Karnataka. A appointed Head of the South East Asia paradoxical man, Jim challenged and Division of the ODM based in Bangkok. inspired all those with whom he came in On his return to UK he was promoted to contact. Life was never dull when Jim was Under Secretary and then joined the around. He enriched the lives of many Central Policy Review Staff in the Cabinet from all over the world and provided Office which was followed by a year with support for many Nepalis at home and the Duchy of Lancaster in 1977. He abroad as part of his lifelong love and returned to the newly named Overseas commitment to Nepal and her people. We Development Agency (ODA) working mourn his passing but in Virgil's words – firstly in the Asia and Oceans Division and

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then the International Division, work for which he was made a CMG, before being selected as ambassador to Nepal. Shortly before the end of his tenure in Kathmandu, HM The Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh visited Nepal on their second visit to the country. He was appointed KCVO. Throughout his career he was ably supported by his wife, Jean who shared his enthusiasms and interests On his retirement he returned to his house, ‘Lapwings’, in Dunwich on the Suffolk coast where he was able to continue his life-long interest in ornithology. He was a very skilled bird-ringer and set up what is known as a ‘constant effort site’. This means that the site, when operating, must father to become a professional military be manned and checked every day. He was engineer. After officer training he was always reluctant to leave ‘Lapwings’. All commissioned into the Royal Engineers holidays generally had to be taken in July and posted to the King George V’s Own as this was considered to be the least Bengal Sappers and Miners. His first productive month for bird-ringing. He posting was to the Sirmoor Field Company returned to Kathmandu on holiday in 1990 in Burma. He quickly rose to become the to look once again at the rich birdlife in officer commanding. His company was Nepal, travelling from west to east visiting assigned to the planned invasion of all the sites that he once knew. I believe Malaya which did not take place following that he looked upon his time in Nepal as the atomic bombs dropped on Japan. He the highlight of his career. remained in northern Burma with his unit GDB where they were engaged in road and bridge maintenance and inland water transport. In 1946 the company returned to Major T Le M Spring-Smyth India where Tom was appointed to 7 Field Tom Spring-Smyth died on 30th April Company of 8th Indian Division. They 2009 aged 85. He was for many years a were sent back to Burma and Tom was in member of the Society. Tom came from a Rangoon for Indian Independence on 15 long line of distinguished forbears, both August 1947. He returned to England and Springs, Smyths and the Le Mesurier back to peacetime training. In 1950 he was family, who trace their history back to the posted to 68 Squadron of the Gurkha sixteenth and thirteenth centuries. These Engineers in Hong Kong and later as forbears include a General of the British Adjutant, served in the regiment in Hong Army (a VC and MC). Earlier, another Kong and the Malayan emergency. was a cavalry subaltern in the Sikh wars. Notwithstanding his experience, the more Tom went to Bedford School completing formal strictures of post war soldiering his education in time to join the army in were not always to his liking. the middle of World War II, following his On retiring he was able to satisfy a life-

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long love of plants and joined a British gardens including the Royal Botanical Natural History Museum expedition, Garden Edinburgh, the Crown Estates, collecting plants and seeds in east Nepal. Windsor and the Sir Harold Hillier He then joined and later ran the hydro- Arboretum. It was during the 1961 electric power feasibility study on the expedition that that Tom collected and Karnali River in west Nepal under the UN despatched three seedlings of the Special Fund. Looking back these were deciduous Daphne bholua var. glacialis via carefree times with a small expat the diplomatic bag to Kew. The clone, community based on Kathmandu. In 1968 subsequently named Gurkha, was one of he was back in Nepal with the Overseas those seedlings and is now well Development Ministry working on Gurkha established in gardens. Another of Tom’s resettlement. This was followed by accomplishments was his introduction of projects with the UN FAO and as project the Dawn Redwood, Metasequoia officer, World Food Programme in Nepal. glyptostroboides, to Nepal in 1971.’ (The In 1975 he joined consulting engineers, Sir story of this is recorded in the 2007 edition William Halcrow & Partners and set up of the journal by Dr Mark Watson. Ed.) their office in . His role was to Tom’s friend, Roy Lancaster, a well expand the firm’s work into south and known plantsman took the plants, the Southeast Asia. Tony Schilling, a member purpose of which was to introduce them to of the Royal Horticultural Society for Nepal as quick growing trees that might be many years, first met Tom when he went useful for fuel wood. The aim was to help to Kathmandu to help with the newly to preserve the indigenous forest varieties established botanical garden at Godaveri at that were traditionally used for that the southern end of the Kathmandu Valley. purpose. Throughout the remainder of his Tony had already been aware of Tom’s career Tom continued to collect plants and work as he had been the receiver of seeds and give horticultural advice from seedlings sent back to Kew that Tom had wherever he went, including the collected in 1961 on the British Natural Rothschild garden at Ramat Hanadiv in History Museum expedition. Many of Israel. Later in life he was proud of the these seedlings were rhododendrons, one establishment of the Sir Horace Kadoorie of Tom’s great interests. Tony writes: ‘I Gurkha Memorial Garden at the Sir personally sowed and carefully recorded Harold Hillier Arboretum, near Romsey. these valuable accessions from the distant The following is an extract written by Tom Himalaya, little thinking that our paths from the Indian Army Association would cross in a few years time when I Newsletter, 1999: ‘At the centre of the realised my own dream of working and Gardens lies Jermyns House containing exploring in Nepal. Nor did I realise that garden staff offices and a restaurant, all in following my return to Britain in 1967 in a wonderful setting. Behind the house order to take up the curatorship of there is a steep-sided descending valley Wakehurst Place, the numerous young with a path down the middle. Looking at plants resulting from Tom’s expedition this in early September 1996 it suddenly would be transferred from Kew to the came to me that it could be the perfect site more agreeable growing conditions in the for a Gurkha Memorial Garden planted High Weald of Sussex. Later many of exclusively with plants from Nepal. I saw these plants found their way into other a mini Nepalese valley before me. The

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curator and staff fell for the project at once Foundation Trust in Hong Hong. The and from the start we had the enthusiastic blueprint for the chautera was provided by support from Brigadier Christopher the Royal Engineers Works Section in HQ Bullock, curator of the Gurkha Museum, British Gurkhas Nepal and signed by a Winchester, only some 15 minutes up the Nepalese draughtsman. Tom contributed road. It was Christopher who had the much in his life both as a military engineer brilliant idea for the form of the memorial and horticulturist. itself – a stepped stone platform – as a GDB chautera – a resting place for porters’ heavy loads. The vertical faces of the (I am grateful to Major (Retd) Dick platform were to carry the badges of the Francis of the Queen’s Gurkha Engineers Brigade of Gurkhas and those of the and Mr Tony Schilling for providing Gurkha Brigade of the old Indian Army.’ information for this piece. Ed.) The project was funded by the Kadoorie

THE INTERNATIONAL TRUST FOR NATURE CONSERVATION (ITNC)

The ITNC was established by the late Tiger projects currently ongoing are: Jim Edwards in 1980 as he was acutely Long term monitoring, including aware of the need for conservation if camera trapping to look at population successful wildlife tourism was to dynamics in the Chitwan National continue to be a viable proposition. It Park. was his way of trying to put something Tiger Haven in the adjacent Dudhwa back into the environment. It is a UK National Park, India. registered charity administered by a Other projects include: group of experienced trustees. Mrs Pat Anti-poaching in the Nepal National Mellor acts the Charity’s secretary. An parks integral part of the trust’s activities is Reforestation in the Tharu Village tree recognizing the needs of local nursery communities and in particular raising Sea Buckthorn cultivation in Ladakh. awareness of the benefits of healthy Community conservation awareness habitats and wildlife populations. ITNC camps. works mainly in Nepal and India. The Details can be found on the Trust’s trust has initiated several projects which website: www.itnc.org once established, have been handed over Following the death earlier this year of to local groups for further successful Jim Edwards, the Trust is hoping to raise management. The Trust operates sufficient funds for a suitable project in educational programmes, species his memory. Donations can be made monitoring and effective anti-poaching through Mrs Pat Mellor, secretary to both activities. ITNC and the Society.

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USEFUL ADDRESSES

The UK Trust for Nature Conservation The Britain-Nepal Medical Trust in Nepal 130 Vale Road c/o Conservation Programmes Tonbridge Zoological Society of London Kent TN9 1SP Regent’s Park Tel: (01732) 360284 London NW1 4RY Tel: (020) 7449 6304 The Gurkha Museum Fax: (020) 7483 4436 Peninsula Barracks Romsey Road The Gurkha Welfare Trust Winchester PO Box 2170 Hampshire SO23 8TS 22 Queen Street Tel: (01962) 842832 SALISBURY SP2 2EX Tel: 01722 323955 Britain-Nepal Chamber of Commerce Fax: 01722 343119 PO Box BNCC www.gwt.org.uk c/o 12a Kensington Palace Gardens London W8 4QU School of Oriental and African Studies Tel/Fax: (01483) 304150/428668 University of London www.nepal-trade.org.uk Thornhaugh Street, Russell Square London WC1H 0XG Student Partnership Worldwide Tel: (020) 7898 4034 17 Deans Yard London SW1P 3PB The Britain Nepal Otology Service (BRINOS) The Royal Society for Asian Affairs Greensand Cottage 2 Belgrave Square Puttenham Road, Seale London SW1X 8PJ Farnham GU10 1HP Tel: (020) 7235 5122 Tel: (01252) 783265 www.rsaa.org.uk

Yeti Association Bird Conservation Nepal (Nepali Association in UK) PO Box 12465 66 Abbey Avenue Lazimpat Wembley Kathmandu Middlesex HA0 1LL Nepal Email: Tel: + 977 1 4417805 [email protected] www.birdlifenepal.org

The Esther Benjamin’s Trust Third Floor, 2 Cloth Court London EC1A 7LS Website: www.ebtrust.org.uk

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NOTES ON THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY President: HRH The Duke of Gloucester KG GCVO

The Britain-Nepal Society was founded Members of the Association which in 1960 to promote good relations provides equally for Nepalese residents between the peoples of the UK and or those staying in this country are also Nepal. We especially wish to foster welcome to attend the Britain-Nepal friendship between UK citizens with a Society’s functions, and can become full particular interest in Nepal and Nepalese members of the Britain-Nepal Society in citizens resident – whether permanently the usual way. The Yeti is a flourishing or temporarily – in this country. A much organization and they publish their own valued feature of the Society is the ease attractive journal. and conviviality with which members of Throughout the year, the Society holds every background and all ages mingle a programme of evening lectures, which together. are currently held at the Medical Society Members are drawn from all walks of of London, Chandos Street, off life including mountaineers, travellers, Cavendish Square, where members are teachers, returned volunteers, aid encouraged to meet each other over a workers, doctors, business people, drink beforehand. members of the Diplomatic Service and The Society holds an Annual Nepali serving and retired officers of the Brigade Supper, usually in February and in the of Gurkhas. The bond they all share is autumn we hold our AGM. The Society an abiding interest in and affection for also holds receptions and hospitality for Nepal and the Nepalese people. visiting senior Nepalese. Membership is open to those of all ages The Committee is actively seeking over 18 and a particular welcome goes to suggestions from members for ways of applications from those under 35. expanding and developing the Ordinary members pay a subscription programme. of £15 (husband and wife members £25) Those interested in joining the Society per annum. Life membership is a single should write to the Honorary payment of £300, joint life membership, Membership Secretary: a payment of £500, and corporate Mrs Pat Mellor business members £50 and charities £25 3 (c) Gunnersbury Avenue per annum. Concessionary rates are Ealing Common available at both ends of the age range. London W5 3NH The annual journal includes a wide Tel: 020 8992 0173 range of articles about Nepal and is sent free to all members. We keep in close touch with the Nepal- Britain Society in Kathmandu, and their members are welcome to attend all the Britain-Nepal Society’s functions. However we do not have reciprocal membership.

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THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY

President: His Royal Highness The Duke of Gloucester KG, GCVO

Vice-Presidents Brigadier AB Taggart MC Lieutenant Colonel HCS Gregory OBE, KSG Mrs Celia Brown# Colonel JM Evans MC Sir Neil Thorne OBE, TD, DL Mr Peter A Leggatt MBE Mrs Pat Mellor** Sylvia Countess of Limerick CBE

Committee (2009/10) Chairman: Lieutenant Colonel Gerry D Birch* Vice-Chairman: Mr John L Ackroyd Acting Honorary Secretary: Mrs Pat Mellor** Mrs Jenifer Evans Honorary Treasurer: Dr Peter A Trott Dr Raghav Dhital OBE Sir Robert ffolkes Bt OBE Mr Harish Karki Miss Jane Loveless Mr IP Manandhar Mrs Sneha Rana Mrs Maggis Solon Mrs Frances Spackman Colonel John SK Swanston

Mr Jhabindra Parsad Aryal, (Minister Counsellor), the Nepalese Embassy (ex officio) Miss Rosalind Corrigan, FCO (ex officio) Mr Simon L Lord ED, HQ Brigade of Gurkhas (ex officio)

Editor of the Journal: Lieutenant Colonel GD Birch*

Archivist: Mrs Celia Brown #

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