THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY
Journal
Number 16
1992 Expedition leader in the Hinku Valley see article 'Exercise Hinku Heaven' page 18 THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY
JOURNAL
Number 16 1992
CONTENTS
5 Editorial 7 The Society'S News by Joanna Thomas Best Wishes for a Very Successful Year 9 Kadoorie Aid in Nepal by Alastair Langlands 13 Summer Outing by Iris Perowne Bolton 15 Annual Nepali Supper by Mayura Brown 16 Return to the Valley 18 Exercise Hinku Heaven by Tony Rudall 24 The Coinage of Nepal by Nicholas Rhodes 28 Forty Years After - Proposed trek to the Base Camp of Everest 29 This Year's Good Causes 31 GAP in Nepal- A Progress Report by Christine Russell 32 Obituary 35 Book Reviews 38 The Gurkha Museum 39 Notes on the Britain-Nepal Society
2 3 EDITORIAL Finn Friends in a Troubled World BINNIE&PARTNERS CONSULTING - ENGINEERS That we live in a very troubled world is pursue the subject should obtain Ni plain enough and the true worth of friend cholas's book which is published by the WORKING IN NEPAL SINCE 1971 ship is seen most clearly when trouble Royal Numismatic Society. They could seems almost to be overwhelming. But also look it up at Appendix 25 to the More than 100 years' experience of friendship comes out in innumerable second volume of Perceval Langdon's improving the life of people throughout the world small ways and some of these are reflected great book on Nepal. in the contents of this the sixteenth issue The Society'S 'Summer Outing' to of our Journal. The chief object of our Stowe School in Buckingham is the sub • Rural & Urban Development • Water Resources Society, the promotion and fostering of ject of a remarkable contribution by Iris good relations between the peoples of the Perowne Bolton who, herself an architect, • Institutional Strengthening • Water Supply United Kingdom and the Kingdom of has given our readers architectural and • Hydropower • Sanitation Nepal, is never lost sight of while carrying historical information which only some • Irrigation • Training out busy social and cultural programmes. one with her experience and qualifications Our first duty must be to welcome the could have done. new chainnan of the Anglo-NepalesePar Major Tony Rudall's enterprising and Uead OffICe: Grosvenor House· (f) London Road· Redhill • Surrey RHl lLQ • UK liamentary Group, the Rt. Hon. Sir John carefully planned journey with his Joint Stanley MP, whom we look forward to Services team from Bovington Garrison seeing at some of our gatherings when his to Luklain East Nepal and on to the Hinku duties allow of it. Our hearty congratula Valley and Mera Peak below Everest was tions to his predecessor, Sir Neil Thorne, the subject of a long and detailed report. who has done so much to foster good His article, taken from it, tells of the ad relations, on both his Knighthood and his miration felt by the team and its leader for Gurkha Dakshina Bahu. the people they encountered and concern Articles based on talks given in London for the marvellous scenery through which to members of the Society, and usually by the expedition took them. members of the Society, will be found in One of the outstanding events of the The First Restaurant to Introduce this as in previous issues of the Journal. Society'S year has always been the Nepali Nepalese Food to London Burlington House has provided a conveni Supper. Those who attended in February ent and interesting venue for these talks. will not have forgotten Brian Blessed's We now offer our readers Colonel Lan rousing and indeed most dramatic account OPlEN DAILY 12 to 3 & 6 to 12 glands on 'Kadoorie Aid in Nepal' and of his adventures in the Himalayas where 93 Charlotte Street Nicholas Rhodes, a former Honorary he achieved a lifetime's ambition. Treasurer of the Society, on 'The Coinage The Society continues its enthusiastic LONDON WIP lLB of Nepal'. The reviewer of Nicholas support for the King Mahendra U.K. Trust Rhodes's book on this subject, in Journal for Nature Conservation and looks for Telephone: 071-6370050 or 071-6364995 No.14, told us that the author's interest in ward to the possibility of a talk from Major coins had begun when he was eight years Dudley Spain, a Trustee, who was in For reservations contact ISHWAR MANANDHAR old and his collection rivalled that of the Nepal for nine weeks this year on an ex British Museum! Members wishing to tensive tour. He was kept very busy but
5 4 had time to discover that the avocado trees THE GURKHA he had planted ten years ago were doing THE SOCIETY'S NEWS WELFARE TRUSTS well! It remains only to refer readers to the Archway North 'good causes' mentioned in the Journal This was another successful year in the II1II The Annual Nepali Supper at the Old Admirality Building and to invite support for them and for our history of the Society. The year's activities Kensington Town Hall on Tuesday 17th Spring Gardens advertisers, but not forgetting to thank His were well supported as interest in the So February. More people were able to attend London SWIA 2BE Excellency the Nepalese Ambassador and ciety grows. The only change in the com than last year. Our guest of honour was Madame Simha for all the help and en mittee was the retirement of John Brian Blessed, whose enthusiasm for Tel: 071-2184395 couragement enjoyed by the Society dur Ackroyd, David Jeffordjoined as our new Nepal and Everest was extremely infec ing what our Honorary Secretary rightly committee member. There will, however, tious. A report of the evening is elsewhere describes in her report ('The Society'S be a number of changes in the next few in the Journal. News') as 'another successful year'. years as five year terms of office come to an end. II1II The Summer Outing jointly organised The 1991/92 winter meetings were as with the Yeti Association - we plan to do follows: this on alternate years. We visited Stowe School, by kind invitation of the Head II1II Tuesday 29th October - Across Tibet master, J eremy Nicholas. We had lunch in by Bicycle by Cecilia Nevill who, in the school dining room and then had a the tradition of the Victorian lady travel choice of cultural or sports activities dur lers, cycled East to West across Tibet. ing the afternoon. About 180 people came; a report appears elsewhere in the Journal. II1II Tuesday 14th January - Coins of Nepal by Nicholas Rhodes. Following II1II The Annual General Meeting Last WITH COMPLIMENTS the publication of his book 'Coins of year's AGM was held on 21st November Nepal' reviewed in the 1990 Journal, 1991, at the Embassy, by kind permission Nicholas opened the door to the import of His Excellency Major General Bharat ance and role of coins in identifying the Kesher Simha. We were extremely lucky history and developments in a country. that the date coincided with the visit of Prince Gyanendra our Patron who at BRITORION LIMITED II1II Tuesday 17th March - Himalayan tended and met members after the meet .ALEX.ANDER HOUSE Wilderness. Roger Mear talked about ing. To allow more circulation space, the STATION ROAD the many wildernesses, including the Ambassador very kindly made available ALDERSHOT Himalayan ones which he had visited, the Embassy's Reception Rooms. HAMPSHIRE GUll his concern about their preservation and the formation of the Wilderness Trust. This year, as members know, we laun Tel: 344454 ched an appeal to help the Gap Organisa Fax: 23417 II1II Tuesday 5th May - Kadoorie Aid in tion Teacher Exchange, as well as the Nepal by Lt. Col. Alastair Langlands Lakshmi Thapa School. We feel it is im who described the work undertaken in portant to keep close links with Nepal and Nepal through the generous funding of make specific contributions from time to the Kadoorie brothers who live in Hong time. Kong.
6 7 Changes to next year's programme are Field Marshal and Pe!:er Duffell on his the January lecture, where three travel Also of course to Neii KADOORIE AID IN NEPAL companies wiU talk about the Thome on his Gurkha Dakshina Bahu and by Lieutenant Colonel Alastair Langlands they arrange. The supper win take place at his St. Columba's Church, Pont Street. Their The philanthropic activities of Lord Ka Horace agreed and in October 1973 I overheads are low, which means the cost doorie and his brother Sir Horace Ka found myself in Hong Kong as his guest for the supper can be lower. 1993 is the doorie, are well known. But what is not so on the Kadoorie Farm. Here, surrounded fortieth anniversary of the of well known is how they came to help the by beautiful flowers, Horace or his Mount Everest and the Foundation has Gurkhas. Chinese staff showed me how they reared planned a number of events. It all started in 1968 in Hong Kong, improved breeds of pigs, poultry and Once again I would like to thank Colo Dear Colonel Evans, where Horace Kadoorie was a close friend ducks. They also showed how they dis nel Jimmy Evans for his support, as well This to let you know how much of the Commander of 48 Gurkha Infantry tributed livestock and fruit trees to farmers as all the members of the committee. we all enjoyed the combined outing of Brigade, Brigadier (later Major General) in need, through the Kadoorie Agricultu The Society and The Yeti 'Bunny'Burnett. The Brigadiedlsked Ho ral Aid Association (KAAA) , which is Joanna Thomas Association on 7th June at Stowe School. race if Gurkhas could attend agricultural entirely financed by Lawrence and Ho Honorary Secretary The lunch was excellent and the place courses on the Kadoorie Farm while they race Kadoorie. August 1992 had such majestic and magnificent were still serving in Hong Kong. We would like to express Horace readily agreed, and to date our deepest thanks 10 you and to all those some 6000 Gurkhas have attended these Colonel Evans writes: concernedfor such a wondeiful arrange- courses, learning about vegetable culture, ment. fruit growing, poultry and pig keeping. The new Chairman of the Anglo-Nepalese I would also like to take this oppor- It was also in 1968 that Horace agreed Parliamentary Group is the Rt. Hon. Sir . to thank you and all the members of to donate inputs to the British Gurkha John Stanley MP for Tonbridge and Mall- The Britain-Nepal Society for such a Resettlement Farms in Nepal, as well as ing. The new group is already five strong. prompt donation to the Natural Disaster to the British funded Agricultural Centres There were extensive fires in Nepal Relief Fund. Please accept my sincere at Lumle and Pakribas. Inputs took the before the monsoon, so disastrous this appreciation as J feel this is a testimony to form of livestock, vegetable seed, fruit year that the Prime Minister opened a the goodwill and friendship which is pre trees, farm equipment and buildings. special Natural Disaster Relief Fund. The vailing between our two Kingdoms and When 'Bunny' Burnett became Major Ambassador wrote to me about it, and in people. General Brigade of Gurkhas he invited Sir Horace Kadoorie at consultation with officers of the Commit- Horace to join him on a visit to Nepal. I PankhuDrinking Water Project, tee we decided to make an immediate was stationed at the British Gurkha The address in London of the King Okhaldhunga, East Nepal donation of £500 on behalf of the Society, Centre, Paklihawa at the time, and in De Mahendra u.K. Trust for Nature since there was not time nor would it have cember 1972 had the pleasure of showing Conservation remains unchanged. The two brothers founded the KAAA been timely to launch another appeal. A Horace the livestock and buildings he had in 1951 to help destitute refugees who had very kind let!:er of appreciation was re given to our Resettlement Farm. 26 Little Chester St.·eel fled to Hong Kong from mainland China. ceived from His Excellency (see below). The General knew I was due to leave London. SWIX 7 AP They believed the highest degree of Congratulations were sent to two long the army shortly, to take up an appoint charity is to help a man in need, by en!:er time members of the Society, Sir John Tel: 071-823 2545 mentatLumleAgricultural Centre in West ing into partnership with him or by pro Chapple on his outstanding promotion to Nepal. So he suggested to Horace that I viding work for him so he may become did my Resettlement Course with him in self-supporting. Hong Kong.
8 9 The KAAA set about answering calls beside the British Gurkha Camp in Pok with a wonderful feeling of freedom that for help with gifts of livestock and fruit ham and form a branch of the British I set off on these treks, away from diesel trees, as wen as bags of cement to build Gurkha Welfare Scheme. A small staff is fumes and noisy towns. sties and other buildings. They also gave based here to administer KAAA funds and We start each day just after dawn, with advice and training on animal husbandry carry out engineering projects. our kit packed into baskets, carried on the and horticulture. I was taken to visit sev I live in a flat above the office but spend backs of porters, supported by bands eral farmers who had been helped to suc much of my time on trek in the hills check around their foreheads. I have an excellent cess from nothing, and was also shown ing KAAA projects. I am able to do this team of porters who are responsible for many KAAA Community projects: roads, because I have an excellent administrative making the treks so enjoyable. They are dams, bridges, sea walls, irrigation chan team in Pokhara led by Hon. Lt. (GCO) always laughing and sharing jokes on the nels, to mention only a few ways aid has Amarsing Lama MBE ex 6 GR. trail, making light of any problems on the been given. No matter what time of year one treks, way such as rain or leeches! each day is filled with scenes of indescrib At around 100'clock each morning we Kadoorie Target Area in Lamjung, West able beauty. In winter, crisp, cool days stop for a curry, cooked to perfection by Nepal, with Dudhpokhari Himal in the often bring snow peaks to watch over you; the porters on kerosene stoves. We all background during the rains everything is lush and enjoy this break: weary shoulders are green, colourful mountain flowers and rested and it is an ideal time to bird watch them on to Horace and his response was butterflies are at their best. It is always or read. But the best time of day is in the always swift and generous. To begin with individual aid took the form of gifts of livestock and fruit trees. However, it soon became apparent that these inputs were undermining the efforts of HMGN's Agricultural Development Bank, who also gave farmers similar in puts, buton repayment. So the KAAA free Purangaon Suspension Bridge, gifts, to a select few around Lumle, caused Myagdi, West Nepal considerable jealousy and had to stop. In stead, Horace concentrated on helping On the eve of my departure for Nepal people suffering extreme hardship: land Horace said: 'Remember our policy is to slide and fire victims, shelter and food for help those who are prepared to help them the destitute. selves. You have seen how KAAA helps Each year Horace sent large donations individuals and communities in Hong for community projects: drinking water Kong. When you get back to Nepal let me systems and foot bridges were given top know if you find any deserving individ priority. Initially, help was ?~so given for uals or communities needing help and I schools, tracks and dispensaries. will see what we can do about it.' When I retired from Lumle in 1983 During the next ten years, while work Horace asked me to be his full- time Rep ing for Overseas Development at Lumle, resentative with British Gurkhas Nepal, I received many requests for aid from through whom all future KAAA projects Kadoorie Target Area in Gorkha, West Nepal looking towards the Darondi River individuals and communities. I passed were to be channelled. We have an office with Baudha Himal in the background
10 11 evening. After some eight hours of walk bank account. What they own is owned SUMMER OUTING ing up and down hills, it is bliss to be able jointly so that, in effect, all expenditure is The Joint BNS and Yeti Summer Outing to Stowe School and Landscape Gardens to sit down and enjoy a mug of steaming incurred jointly. by Iris Perowne Bolton lemon tea. In no time at aJ] tents are up and Though troubled by a broken hip Sir a meal cooking. We often receive visits Horace, who is 90 and a bachelor, visits After some delay, two extremely full from friendly, cheerful children and Nepal every year and goes to remote areas coaches and several accompanying cars farmers who come to talk or have a peep by helicopter and sedan-chair to meet were speeding off from the Royal Ne into the saheb's strange dwelling! When KAAA staff in the field and declare open palese Embassy and up the M40 on their ever possible I call on Ex-servicemen and some of our projects. Lord and Lady Ka way to Stowe. (perhaps 'speeding' was it is fun to chat about the good old days. doorie also take a great interest in our the wrong word; part of the motorway was When we reach a KAAA bridge or work and have inspected many KAAA shrouded in mist!) Meanwhile family par water project under construction I spend projects in Nepal. They have one son, the ties in other cars were homing in to Stowe some time with our staff, who are Ex-ser Hon Michael Kadoorie, who with his wife from different directions, all ~ager to meet vicemen from the Queen's Gurkha Engin Betty have given generous support for their friends and have a good day out. The/rant entrance, Stowe School eers. Our work is carried out in 'Target many projects in Nepal and have visited The members of the BNS 12 13 how much better it was than the school also the exquisitely decorated State Music food we remembered! We fell upon it Room, apparently unique in England with THE ANNUAL NEPALI SUPPER eagerly amidst much talk and merriment. its Pompeian style wall paintings and by Mayura Brown Half an hour later, greatly refreshed, we painted and decorated ceiling; the Large made our way outdoors to continue the Library, still in use as such, with its brass We returned to the Kensington Town Hall est from the North through Tibet. It was day's programme. The House may be grilled mahogany bookcases, original gal for our Nepali Supper on February 12th this route that was taken by Brian Blessed grand, but it is Stowe's gardens that are lery and splendid neo-classical ceiling of with a larger attendance than last year. and his camera crew, and the film was seen quite unique; a layout of grass, water, trees 1801, and the Blue Room formerly hung Among the guests were members of the by most of us on TV, though we were not and 'temples' evolved over seventy-five with blue silk damask. Anglo-Nepalese Parliamentary Group told what altitude was reached. He gave years to create the ideal Classical Land For those of more athletic bent, both and two members of the Nepal-Britain us a most exhilarating and entertaining scape of the 18th century. The term young and old, a programme of sports had Society, Mr. IharendraRana whose father, account of his adventures, and intends to 'temple' is used to describe all the garden been arranged on the school mnning track; the late General Krishna, was Nepalese make another attempt on the mountain in buildings but they are many and varied mnning races for different age groups, Ambassador in London in the 1930's, and aid of various charities. and include commemorative monuments, welly throwing and egg-and-spoon and Mrs. Manju Rana, the sister of Sri Iharen We wish him every success and hope bridges, grottoes, pavilions and arches; three-legged races were all hugely en dra Shingha, a previous Ambassador the Gods will be kind to him once again. thirty-two of the original fifty 'temples' joyed by the participants, even His Excel whom most of our members will remem still remain and it was to one of these, the lency taking part with apparent great ber. Queen's Temple (built to honour Queen delight. And for those whose idea of the The present Ambassador, General Bha Charlotte, who nursed her husband perfect English Sunday afternoon is to sit rat Simha, says he finds it most encoura George III back to health in 1789), that we and watch cricket, two matches were on ging to see the support this event receives BUCKINGHAM PALACE were now led and which was to be our hand; one on the north side of the house from our members which shows their af Colonel J.H. evans, MC, Chainnlln, base for the rest of the day. and one on the south, the latter with the fection for and interest in Nepal has not The Britain-Nepal society. The first event was to be a treasure hunf backdrop of "one of the finest views in diminished. Recent Elections had taken - or rather two treasure hunts, one for England", across the lake and up the av place in Nepal without incident. British I send my .... arm thanks to you I the Vice-President.s and t.he lnembers of t.he children who were given a list of items to enue to the massive Corinthian Arch Parliamentary Observers had been present Britain-Nepal Society for your kind message collect such as leaves, flowers, stones etc. three-quarters of a mile away. including Mr. Neil Thome (now Sir Neil). of loyal greetings, sent on the occasion ot your Annual Supper at the Kensington Toloffl and one for adults who were given a series To complete the day the School had Sir George Bishop, standing in for our Ball. of clues to which answers had to be found. also most kindly provided tea and sand President, introduced our Guest Speaker, I received this message with much It was clear that these related to the various wiches for us at the Queen's Temple, re the well-known actor, Mr. Brian Blessed. pleasure and send my best wishes to all concerned for an enjoyable and successful 'temples' in the grounds. Some of us freshment most appreciated after From his youth Mr. Blessed had been ob occasion. elected to go it alone, but others took everyone's exertions. Prizes were drawn sessed by the story of George Mallory advantage of a proffered conducted tour for in the Raffle and the winners of the who was lost on Everest in 1924 with his E:LIZA.BE:TB R. led by a sixth-form boy who talked most treasure hunts appropriately rewarded. All companion, Irvine. He wanted to follow 12th February, 1992. interestingly as he guided the party round too soon it was time to pack up and go. It in Mallory's footsteps, wearing similar the various monuments, lakes and had been altogether a very happy and clothes, and without oxygen as Mallory bridges, finishing at the little parish memorable occasion for w~,ich we are had done. Our young members may not church which nestles in the trees beside extremely grateful to Mr. Michael Homby know that those early expeditions started the house. and Stowe School. in Darjeeling and then approached Ever- Again a choice of activities; some A total of 180 people, including mem chose to have a guided tour of the State bers of both the Britain-Nepal Society and Rooms of the House and were shown not the Yetis, their families and guests of the only those which we had seen at lunch but Embassy, took part. 14 15 Kiran present. Mr. Prabhakar Rana of the work to save and rebuild part of the hill RETURN TO THE VALLEY King Mahendra Wild Life Trust and the when it began to collapse some years ago). Heritage Society was their host at a Dinner Then the old Kathmandu city centre. To in the Royal Suite of the Soaltee Hotel. On save the irreplaceable buildings in the his Mayura Brown, a founder member of the the last day of their stay, the lunch given toric Durbar Square from the pollution of Society, celebrated her eightieth birthday by Mr. Sagar Rana, President of the the heavy vehicular traffic, the area could in August. She served on the Committee, Nepal-Britain Society. The British Am be turned into a pedestrian precinct. For first as Hon. Treasurer, then as Vice bassador and Mrs. George were among tunately the interiors of both cities, Bhad Chairman, and after that became a Vice the guests. It was interesting to hear that gaon (Bhaktapur) and Patan, are safe, so President. In those early days she was Shakespeare's Birthday would be cel far, from the menace of traffic. Here one instrumental in arranging lectures for the ebrated in Kathmandu by the Society, an could sit for a while in peace and reflect Society's meetings because of her con honour sadly denied the Bard in his own on times past. tacts with SOAS and the Royal Asiatic country! Perhaps our Society could do An unforgettable experience was the Society. She also endeavoured to increase something about this - say :m outing to "Mountain Flight" when it was possible to the membership by writing to people con Stratford-on-Avon. view the awe-inspiring range of the East nected with Nepal, including two promi In Patan, March 1992 There were visits to General Sridhar ern Himalayas from a distance of less than nent ones - General Sir Francis Tuker and and his family and to Sri Ishwari Raj Pan 14 miles while in the comfort of a press Sir Ralph Turner. She produced two dey. Both he and his wife, Gita, are in urized aircraft. The journey to and from Newsletters annually before the advent of from the place she knew in her youth. better health. The new office of the King Kathmandu was by Royal Nepal Airlines the present Journal to which she has con Nepal, alas, cannot be kept in a time cap Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation with passengers receiving every comfort tributed regularly. Her principal duty is to sule, and it has changed as so much of the was also visited. HRH Prince Gyanendra and attention. send Birthday greetings to H.M. the King world has done. Streets crowded with traf is Chairman of the Trust. In London earlier It was, said Mayura, a great joy for an and to our Patron, H.R.H. Prince Gyanen- ' fic, a great increase in population, the in the year, the Ambassador had been old lady to receive such a welcome and so dra on behalf of the Society. She prepares disappearance of the green fields that once presented with the world prize for the much affection from her relatives. It was the reply to our Patron's A.G.M. mess surrounded Kathmandu. When she looked Annapurna Conservation Area Project by a journey she may not be able to repeat ages, and also our message to the Nepal out of the window of their suite in the Dr. David Bellamy. Dr. Chandra Gurung, because of her age and arthritis, but it has Britain Society (founded by her uncle Soaltee Hotel, the landscape beyond re the Area Project Manager, was also pres left her with a wealth of memories of the Field-Marshal Kaiser), has kept in touch sembled a Tuscan hill-town - red earth ent. Members may have seen this event on Valley and its kindly folk. with the Anglo-Nepalese Parliamentary beneath the clustered houses. ITV. ACAP has been an outstanding suc (Birthday greetings and flowers were Group from its inception, and of course However, March is a delightful month cess, and it is hoped that similar projects sent by the Chairman and Committee the Foreign Office. She has taken on many in Nepal, and Mayura said it was a fabu will come into being in the near future. Members and also on behalf of all mem chores for the Society as they arrived. lous holiday for her and Tom. They had Mayura wanted to see some parts of the bers of the Society to a most popular and In recognition to her long service to the the privilege of dining with Their Royal Valley that she had known well. First to active Vice-President without whose Society (thirty-two years), she was invited Highnesses, Prince Gyanendra and the the temple of Swayambhunath with its cheerful and charming presence no meet to Kathmandu with her husband, a gra Princess Komal. The British Ambassador, present stairway. (John Sanday gave an ing of the Society would feel complete. cious gesture by our Patron, H.R.H. Prince Mr. Timothy George, very Yindly held a illustrated talk to our members on his Ed.) Gyanendra, with the warm supportofH.E. Reception which included three ex-Ne the Ambassador and Madame Simha. Mr. palese Ambassadors to Britain, Mr. and Prabhakar S.J.B. Rana handled all ar Mrs. B.P. Khanal and many relatives and rangements for their stay and drew up the old friends. There was lunch with Sri itinerary. Jharendra Shinga in his charming garden, Everyone told Mayura that the Kath a large family gathering at the Cocktail mandu Valley would be unrecognisable Party given by Prabal Rana with the Rani 16 17 EXERCISE HINKU HEAVEN (8th April to 27 May 1992) by Tony Rudall The Royal Geographical Society is Valley. This changed our approach to the housed in an impressive building in Kens study. We decided to make general obser ington. Eighteen months ago I spent a vations rather than a detailed survey of weekend there at their seminar on "Small man's minimal (as yet) impact on the val Expeditions". I was interested to see ley. photographs on the walls of past From themomentthey arrived in Nepal explorers. Nearly all were servicemen. In the team seemed to become involved in the High Tatra Mountains in Czechoslo assessing what they saw. They discussed vakia last year my military team of the way of life of people in the capital climbers carried out a simple survey of Kathmandu, and these observations and lichen growth. This year I wondered if discussions continued during the bus ride they could turn their attention to Nepal. to liri and the trek to Lukhla. In the Hinku lan Bruce, our local MP, who has spe Valley there seemed to be little point in Plank sawing near Lamjura Pass cial responsibilities for Nepal, supported measuring the width of paths, counting the our plan to carry out a survey of the impact number of gulleys or landslides as there dusty. There were few trekkers on the Woodcutters oftrekkers in the remote Hinku valley. He seemed to be so little evidence of damage route between liri and Lukhla. We met • Plank sawing sites. (However plank helped me gain information on the subject to the environment. The team members probably no more than twenty. However sawing is a slow process restricting the and, through him, lan Price and I visited were often so tired (or ill) that they the owner of a tea-house in lunbesi did say rate of deforestation. Until chain saws ar the Nepalese Embassy in London. The wouldn't have felt inclined to stop and the place was inundated in October/No rive?). Ambassador helped put the problems of record such things in detail. It seemed vember each year, the "trekking season". • Porters carrying planks - about a ton of his country in perspective and made us better to give a general description of the The peaceful, friendly people seemed wood passed the team in 10 minutes. appreciate the difficulties the poorer coun environment and perhaps "voice a warn very happy. Even the little girl who had tries have meeting the needs of an ever- in ing" through these pages! received no medical attention for her Approach creasing population. I contacted Rita badly scalded legs laughed, joked and The paths through the forest were often Gardner of the Dept of Geography at The Trek - Jiri to Lukhla played volleyball with the team! broad and in many places there were alter Kings College London. She is also the nati ve routes around rocks and trees show secretary of the RGS. She told me what to Above Lukhla - towards the Zatrwa La ing extensive use. Gulleys led off the trail look for in the Hinku Valley and advised The path from Lukhla traversed fields and and small landslides had occurred, under us to simply report our observations as we then entered the forest. There was much mining the paths. In places the top-soil had trekked from Lukhla into the Hinku Valley evidence of deforestation (possibly esca been washed away exposing bare stones and on towards Mera Peak. lating, considering the evergrowing needs and rock. During the trek in from liri to Lukhla it of Lukhla): seemed that the main impact on the envi • Completely de-nuded areas, some put THE HINKU VALLEY ronment was the advance of agriculture over to agriculture, others awaiting culti Thli Kharka (4,400m) which over many years had removed most The impact of agriculture in this area has vation. At above 14,000' there were no trees and of the trees and terraced all the hills. There been well documented. Only the steepest • Large areas (acres) of partially felled only sparse vegetation. Small areas had was a stark contrast between the country slopes had a good covering of trees. The forest with tree stumps and rotting trees. been flattened for tents. The path wound side we travelled through on the way to April/May period is pre-monsoon and down from Tuli Kharka through low scrub Lukhla and the almost untouched Hinku everywhere was generally brown, dry and 18 19 and then rhododendrons. Only a very nar team of woodcutters, laboriously sawing containers. This fuel was used predomi explained that the wood could have been row, sometimes imperceptible, trail led planks, destined for Tangnag, by hand. nantly for cooking our food. The porters used on our return they said that others downwards. Upwards to Tangnag. The trail fol cooked their own food on wood flres. To would only use it before we came back. lowed the river bank up through the valley, carry enough kerosene for their use We pointed out that that would be far Tashing Dingma (3,500m) climbing gradually. There were several would have needed more porters to carry better than simply burning it for fun and A small cleared area beside a stream obvious, but small, campsites. One was the kerosene etc., etc. The porters gener forcing other expeditions or Yak herders where the trail enters the true forest. The used on our return which was right on the ally forage for twigs and fallen branches to chop down more trees! This seemed to forest was much denser than anywhere we river's edge and just big enough to for their fires making little impact on the be something of a revelation. A small step had seen before. The quantity and quality squeeze in seven tents. Sometimes the forest. However the larger the caravan the for conservation? of the vegetation seemed to be much dif path was not obvious. We climbed through larger the campsite required and the ferent. At a similar altitude on the trek in, dwindling untouched rain-forest, through greater the impact on that particular area. the Lamjura Pass had seemed like an spreading rhododendrons into a Dart Our Sirdar also conserved some of our eerie, desolate place with sparse low moor-like landscape, and on further to the kerosene - by using more wood - for twisted trees. Here the huge himalayan "moon-scape" moraines surrounding possible use by the porters 0n their return pines (nothing of their stature had been Tangnag. Yaks grazed on grassy areas in over the Zatrwa La. Porters are generally seen before) rose above tangled dripping the forest near the river's banks. Their poorly equipped for cold nights in their moss covered vegetation which became presence probably preserved the small caves. Small woodfires keep them warm. more "jungle-like" as we descended. No clear area of forest. These areas could be With little wood to be found at Tuli where was the path more than one foot used, and abused, if the volume of trekkers Kharka on our way into the valley two of wide and there was little obvious gulle increased. the porters had suffered badly. ying. Landslides seemed natural phe The porters would stop frequently and nomena. There was evidence of the Some specific observations often - within seconds - have a little fire occasional felled tree and some were Conservation minded trekkers use kero going to boil water for their many rice charred where porters had lit flres. How sene for fuel on their expeditions. Our meals, for warmth and as a morale booster. ever on the return trip we passed a small porters carried our fuel in 40 litre plastic It was pretty miserable at Chutanga and most afternoons in the Hinku Valley. The porters helped us gather wood which was sometimes huge fallen branches. Since A resident of Bursa they were already lying on the forest floor this assuaged our guilt However had pre The locations of the main campsites in vious caravans killed the original tree off the Valley have been listed here and have by chopping off its branches? Were we been documented in other publications. using up valuable 'porters' fuel so future These clearings in the forest will ob expeditions would be forced to use living viously enlarge with more use. There was trees? At Kohte our cooks built a fire for evidence of other spots used by trekkers, cooking to save kerosene for the return porters or Yak herders: trip. They used only fallen trees but the • Fire blackened ground and stones ar evening we arrived at the site they built a ranged for fire-places. large stock of chopped wood. The follow • A small amount of litter; rusting tins, ing morning some was used to cook break some plastic and paper. fast and then we were upset to see them A few Yaks browsed in the forest, more set light to the remaining pile! When we were located around Tangnag. The Yak- Campsite by the Hinku River 20 21 treks entering the valley. Many UK-based need for adventure and guaranteeing a income from visitors. It is also no use firms are beginning to feature Mera Treks higher standard of living for the local "throwing money at the problems" as has in their brochures. Greater numbers would population. been done in other Third World countries. obviously rapidly change everything de The team took to the friendly Nepalese Projects flounder and technology scribed in this report. More trekkers re people but were disturbed by the lack of crumbles. Should we not try to persuade quire more fuel. Kerosene requires more medical help available, the poor sanitation more and more people to care about the porters. An easy option is to chop down and the very hard lives of most Nepalese problems. Newspapers have been far trees. This might encourage more Yak her people. They must have been very envious more interested in the environmental ders and more support for the trekkers of us but never seemed resentful. People issues raised by Exercise Hinku Heaven through more tea-houses. More locals liv throughout the world deserve better, but than the altitude reached by the team. ing in the valley might lead to further improvements cost money. Conservation People are interested and people ulti forest clearance for farming to produce ists preach about preserving the environ mately persuade governments to act more vegetables to be sold to the trekkers. ment but Nepal desperately needs the responsibly on their behalf. Judith Swinden took many photo graphs of the tens of different species of flora she observed around Chutanga and in the Hinku Valley. The lichen 'Rhizo Carpon Geographicum' was observed on the rocks which made up the glacial mo raines at the head of the valley. The presence of this lichen, which can be ob A typical 'Sherpa'load served in Europe, might prompt some readers to plan an expedition to study its herders had a small collection of tempor growth giving further clues to glacial re ary homes in stone huts at the head of the cession and global warning. valley. More Yaks are driven up the valley The team spotted very few wild ani to graze during the monsoon apparently. mals (although one Yak in particular At present the numbers are probably seemed very upset!) Dippers were abun determined by the amount of grass that dant at the river's edge and crows were grows above the forest during the mon very common. A flock of20 or so choughs soon. The valley could support more Yaks were spotted on a grassy slope about lkm The team at Lukhla if more of the forest was felled. below Tangnag. Snow Leopard tracks There are no proper tea-houses in the were seen in the snow on the Hinku side Hinku Valley at present. Trekkers can be of the Zatwra La. invited into one of the huts at Tangnag to buy Chang or a powerful local wine. How Conclusions Exercise HINKU HEA VEN ever a Tea-house was under construction The team felt privileged to have visited an area of outstanding natural beauty which Bovington Garrison's Joint Services (although not very rapid) at Tangnag. One Expedition to the Himalayas party of woodcutters were observed in the could well change dramatically in the next forest preparing planks for the building. ten years. With careful management trek This work could be in response to a pre kers could have little impact on their sur dicted huge increase in the number of roundings, satisfying their ever increasing 22 23 Valley noticed the growing wealth and consisted of geometric patterns called THE COINAGE OF NEPAL power of Dolakha, and before the end of Yantras, which are artistically very attrac by Nicholas Rhodes the century Dolakha had been conquered tive. These Yantras were a form of relig by the King of Kathmandu. From then on ious code, allowing the initiated to In my illustrated talk to the Society en all the trans-Himalayan trade between venerate their deities, while not jeopard titled The Coinage of Nepal, I demon India and Tibet passed through the Valley, izing the commercial success of the coins strated how coins give an insight into and fine silver coins were being struck by offending potential users who pro many aspects of Nepalese culture over the there. fessed other religious faiths. centuries. Their very existence sheds light The 150 years of the Malla Dynasty, Many of the debased coins were sent to on the economic and social structure of the from 1600 to 1750 AD, saw a tremendous Tibet as part of the trading relationship country; the issuing authority sheds light flowering of Nepalese culture, financed and formed the basis of the currency of on the political history; the quality of pro Kathmandu Valley. Their use is confirmed by the profits from the lucrative transit that country; indeed Nepalese coins of this duction indicates technological develop by the contemporary stone inscriptions trade. The Nepalese established trading period continued to circulate in Tibet until ments; the choice of metal sheds light on that can be found in the Valley. houses in Lhasa and the other major towns early this century. the development of mining if the metal From between 700 AD and 1540 AD, of Tibet, and enforced a mqnopoly over During this period all the coins in cir came from outside Nepal; the choice of hardly any coins were struck in Nepal, the trade between India and Tibet. Many culation were of silver, the main denomi design often sheds light on the religion, indicating a return to the barter system. beautiful coins were struck by the three nation ranging from the "mohar" and in particular the symbolism of both Only in 1100 AD did a few sil ver and gold kingdoms ofKathmandu, Patan and Bhat weighing 5g, to the "dam" which weighed the Hindu and Buddhist religions, which coins appear. Neither silver nor gold are gaon, initially in fine silver, but after 1735 O.04g. Occasionally, however, an even flourished side by side; the treatment of mined in Nepal, so the metal must have the coins were debased to 67% and then smaller coin, the "jawa", was struck, the design sheds light on artistic develop reached Nepal as a result of international to only 50% fine. These coins were then weighing only O.Olg, and these are the ments. In fact there is hardly any aspect of trade; the gold probably came from Tibet used to finance the building of the smallest coins in the world. Nepalese culture that is totally untouched and the silver from India, indicating the numerous fine palaces and temples that In 1768 the Kathmandu Valley was by money, and the fact that most coins are existence of a trans-Himalayan trade pas were built during this period. conquered by Prithvi Narayan, King of precisely datable often makes them valu sing through Nepal at that time. Gorkha, and ancestor of King Birendra. able historical documents. Mohar of Tej Narsirnha of Palmi Prithvi Narayan and his successors ex The earliest coins were struck in Nepal Silver tangka of King Indra Sirnha of 1765-58 tended the Kingdom far to the east and between c.575 and 700 AD, during the Dolakha, 1540-48 west, until in 1815, after a war with the Lichhavi period. These coins exhibit a British, the borders of Nepal were fixed at very high standard of artistic maturity, far their present limits. superior to anything being made in India Coins continued to be struck in the at this period. It is interesting to note that Kathmandu Valley, but of good silver, and none of them bear the name of the Lich Prithvi Narayan refused to accept the de havi King, who must have been primarily based coins that had been sent to Tibet by a religious figurehead, although a few the Malla Kings as of equal in value to his have the names of the secular prime min In contrast to other art forms, such as new fine silver coins. This dispute with isters of the country, such as Amshu Var sculpture and painting, which often in Tibet resulted in the loss of most of the man. During the sixteenth century, Dolakha clude images of various Hindu deities or transit trade with Tibet, and ultimately, was an independent Newar Kingdom, of the Buddha, the designs on the coins between 1789 and 1792, led to two short Copper coin with the image of the god situated in the Kosi valley, and controlling never included any such images, but often wars with Tibet. of wealth c.li50 AD an important trade route that passed up the The coins were made out of locally mined valley, from India to Tibet. It was not long copper, and are rarely found outside the before the three Malla Kingdoms of the 24 25 Gold l-i Mohar of Girvan Yuddha presented a number of fine gold coins EXOTIC MEALS IN A (Judha) Vikram to Queen Victoria, and these are now in ROMANTIC ATMOSPHERE the British Museum collection. During the 19th century copper coins For Authentic Nepalese Food became widely used in Nepal, often struck at mints situated in the hills, close to the come to Johnnie Gurkha's copper mines, but after 1950 all minting where the friendly staff will Welcome you, was centralised at the mint in Kathmandu. In recent years, as inflation has reduced and the Nepalese Surroundings the value of the rupee, coins have been will ensure your Comfort. During the Rana period, between 1847 increasingly replaced by paper money in and 1950, coins were struck in the common circulation, but they are still name of the Shah Dynasty kings. Many struck to fill the demand for very small beautiful gold coins were strUCk, but change. Larger coins are struck purely to these were mainly used for presentation satisfy the growing demand for Nepalese purposes. For example, when Jang Ba coins from collectors both in Nepal anc' Please ***remember - hadur Rana visited Britain in 1851 he internationally. Johnnie Gurkha's at Down-Town area. Victoria Road, Aldershot, Hampshire. I r Telephone: Aldershot*** (0252) 28773/23191 * p I ~ \118TEJRI11 Please visit once - then always! We Open 7 days a Week for Luncheons and Dinners. ~ TRll\1EbS & TElURSl P. bT19. We cater for large Parties, Functions aad Banqueting. Contacting Address in the U.K. I wish you all a Sincere Season's Greetings. Hart B. Karki 186 Victoria Road, Aldershot, Johnnie Gurkha's Hants, GU 11 IJZ NEPALESE CUISINE Tel: 0252 28773 26 27 FORTY YEARS AFTER 1HIS YEAR'S GOOD CAUSES University of East Anglia Proposed Trek to the Base Camp of Everest. (Annual Appeal 1992) In 1953, Sir Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and help its pupils become self-sufficient. It It has been customary in recent years to Sir Edmund Hillary became the first men also runs an orphanage and provides make an annual appeal for a charity com to climb Mount Everest - at 8,848m, the health care for the community at large. We patible with the aims of our Society. Since highest mountain in the world. At the re are hoping to raise £10,000 for the school the special effort made for earthquake re quest of Sir Tenzing's second son, Mr. towards an extension. lief in 1989, which met with a most J amling Tenzing, a group of nine students, In addition to the trek we are proposing generous response, there has been no fur mainly from the University of East Ang a series of events including a piano con ther appeal. lia, but including three former pupils from cert by Mr Tom McKentosh in the Royal In the meantime the committee has the John Taylor High School, Barton Nepalese academy, Nepal, in September examined several aspects of charitable under Needwood, will trek to the Everest 1992. A fund raising committee has been work to ensure that whatever modest sums Base Camp in January 1993 to mark the set up in Nepal, including the wife of the we can raise are put to the best use for 40th anniversary of the conquest. Mr. British Ambassador to Nepal, Mrs Ri Nepal. It was considered that members Another two-roomed house for nursery Jamling Tenzing, a close schoolfriend of chenda George. We have already received would prefer that projects should be spe and kindergarten (we need to build the one of the students, is in addition hoping coverage in the local press, the Norwich cific rather than the handing-over of a upper storey) to lead us on this expedition. The proceeds Evening News of March 18th, 1992, in lump sum for general use. raised from the programme will go for the addition to which we have been promised The first problem is that there are so benefit of the Kumbeshwar Technical at least three further articles. We hope many deserving cases. Out of several rec No wonder: it was just a small hut, with School in Kathmandu, Nepal, established soon to be featured in a national news ommendations, the following are pro the small children obediently sitting on the to help socially and economically de paper and in local television. posed for this year's good causes: mud floor, being instructed by, of all prived pupils. Sponsors are needed. If you would like people, a lady from Sussex, who had heard The school provides for the most unfor to help or be involved in any way please Miss Lakshmi Thapa's school near of Lakshmi Thapa's project from the Pes tunate sectors of the Nepalese comm unity. write to:- Friends of KTS, Care of 70 Bhaktipur (Bal Balika Awasiya talozzi Village in England and decided to It seeks to do this by providing primary Croxall Road, Edingale, Tamworth, Staf Vidhyalay) come and help her for a month. The re education and skills training in order to fordshire BT9 9JE Lakshmi Thapa started this village school doubtable Miss Lakshmi was nearby, after serving 3 years as a house-mother in planning a syllabus in an exercise book. the Pestalozzi Village in Sussex. Through She told how she had got the nearby vil YETI Association her own efforts she persuaded villagers to lagers to help build the hut and of her (Nepali Association in U.K.) build a school hut and commenced teach plans. Two years later, the hut had ex Dr. Raghav Dhital, ing with bare essentials and no furniture panded with the outlines of a second sto 48 Cheyne Avenue, in 1990. A committee member visiting rey and a two-roomed kindergarten has South Woodford, Kathmandu now is due to visit her and been built and on which she plans also to LONDON EI8 2DR assess how we can help, preferably with build a second floor. If all goes well it is materials in kind. hoped that the Society will help with the Colonel Evans writes:- "Splashing provision of bricks, cement and timber." through the rice-fields at the end of the monsoon two years ago, we eventually GAP Organisation Teacher Exchange found Lakshmi Thapa's school on a low The GAP Organisation arranges for stu ridge in a far corner of the Kathmandu dents to work abroad in their gap year valley. No one we asked had heard of it. between school and university. They pay 28 29 GAP IN NEPAL A Progress Report by Christine Russell When I first went out to Nepal for GAP in my last visit I succeeded in getting GAP May 1991, GAP was sending young registered with the Social Services people as volunteer teachers for periods of National Co-ordinating Council, which three months on a tourist visa. As a former means that our volunteers will be able to teacher, I had been a little sceptical about teach for 6 months and that we can now how useful 18 year olds could be and had go ahead with our scheme for twinning thought that it would be the volunteers each Nepali school with a British primary who derived most benefit from the experi school and bringing a Nepali teacher from ence. They do indeed develop greatly in each GAP school over to the UK for an personal terms from their contact with in-service training course. I hope to bring Nepali people and culture and come back the first 3 Nepali teachers over in the committed to maintaining their links with spring of 1994. GAP's scheme is essen Nepal. However, I have also been im tially one of cultural exchange, and in pressed by the contribution which they Nepal GAP is working closely with Class I children make to the Nepali schools. As native Matribhoomi Sevak Sangh, a voluntary speakers ofEngJish they do much to raise service organisation which aims to perpe their own fares and subsistence. The large tributions will be gratefully acknowled the standard of English and in addition tuate Nepali cultural values and shares Nepal contingent go to village schools and ged by our Hon Treasurer introduce many extra-curricular acti GAP's ideas of promoting international are generally helpful (for a period of three vities. I am therefore very pleased that on understanding and fellowship. months). It is a great experience for them, Alan Durston Esq and GAP headquarters in Reading have 87 Pine Hill asked if we will sponsor the air-fare and Epsom Surrey KTl8 7BJ some expenses for one Nepali teacher to come to an English primary school for J M Evans, Chairman 8-10 weeks as a start of GAP's 3 year plan for Nepal Britain exchanges. As it is constituted the Society has been The address of the Britain-Nepal unable to register as a Charity, so we have Otology Service (BRINOS) is: opened a separate bank account for a Cha ritable Fund, to be used only and entirely 2 West Road, for this pwpose. Many generous contribu Guildford GU1 1AV tions have been received. Further con- 30 31 Malaysia where he interrogated Japanese Prior to tills at Baldoh he was, in the OBITUARIES prisoners of war. eyes of many of the commissioned A gifted linguist, he read English and officers, the epitome of the good regimen oriental languages at Si John's College, tal officer. Correct i.n bearing and de The following appeared in THE TIMES British ambassador in Peking. It was a job before entering the Diplo meanour, knowledgeable and completely of May 9 1992 for which Denson was singularly well matic Service in 1951. His dedicated to his work and to the Regiment qualified. A fluent Mandarin speaker and induded he was nevertheless approachable; al John Boyd Denson, CMG, OBE leading Foreign Office sinologist he had Helsinki and a monastic lifestyle John Denson, a former British ambassa spent the previous three years in Whitehall John Denson was an unstuffy diplomat himself, he could teH a good story abom dor in Nepal, died on April 24 aged 65. He as assistant head of the Far East depart who loved music, "looking at paintings" some of the exploits of our predecessors. was born on August 13,1926. ment As such he had been involved in the and good wine. He was also an accom Shortly after his arrival on the Burma John Denson was Britain's charge d'af negotiations which led to Britain's de plished amateur actor who took part, the Japanese began the offensive in faires in Peking towards the end of recognition of the nationalist Chinese while ambassador in Nepal, in charity During nine months of intermit China's cultural revolution. When he ar government in Formosa and the re-estab Christmas performances of Toad of Toad tent action which followed, Eric Mercer's rived at the start of 1969 the British lishment of full diplomatic relations with Hall and Charhe's Aunt and in retirement memorable achievement was the defence mission was still a burnt-out shell after Peking. His appointment as charge d'af organised play readings. of the Phaetu ridge by his company, for being sacked two years before by the Red faires in succession to Percy Craddock He manied in 1957 Joyce Symondson, which he received the immediate award of Guards - who had also beaten up his (later to become Mrs Thatcher's special a fellow diplomat whom he met and the Military Cross. Another accolade he predecessor. Denson himself was once adviser on foreign affairs) was seen as a courted in Hong Kong and Peking; she reported on return to England was to find jostled and held for two hours by an angry, significant step forward. survives him. that his photograph on the mantiepiece of xenophobic mob until he was able to seek At one point in his career it seemed as Denson was one of the earliest his senior mmt had been promoted two help from a police station. if trouble was John Denson's business. He members of the Society. places, above less be-medalled Mercers. His three years as "our man in Peking" served in Laos throughout two coups Wounded through the shoulder during will be remembered, however, as a period d'etat (with fighting across the border in Lieutenant Colonel A E E Mercer the monsoon amidst the mud of the Silchar of developing rapprochement, not only Vietnam) and was consul-general in OBE, MC Track, he appeared almost happy as he between China and this country but be Athens from 1973-1977 - a period which Eric Mercer's sudden death on 14 Fe proudly displayed his arm in a sling. With tween the People's Republic and the rest saw the British embassy attacked by gov bruary 1991 in hospital followed a shades of things to come, he refused medi of the world. This was the time of "ping ernment-sponsored thugs following the massive heart attack five days earlier. He cal attention until ordered back to the pong diplomacy" and Henry Kissinger - Turkish invasion of Cyprus in 1974. had collapsed as he stepped off the train CCP. and one in which Denson himself scored He was Britain's envoy in Kathmandu late in the evening but, true to form, he Eric Mercer was born in 1914. After a something of a diplomatic triumph by between 1977 and 1983, an unusually struggled home on his own. A worried peripatetic upbringing he was really being officially allowed to tour China. long appointment which reflected his sui niece saw him a few days later and despite happy with school life at Pangbourne. He Among his happier duties during his first tability in the job. But his hopes of then protest rushed him to hospitaL left early at sixteen to work on his father's year in Peking was to welcome the Re returning to a Chinese speaking country One of the most modest and unassum farm in British Columbia. Three years uter's journalist Anthony Grey when he were frustrated by the lack of a suitable ing of men, Eric was a lion in his day. He later he was back in England, too old to go was finally released after more than two senior vacancy. So instead he chose early arrived with a party of reinforcements in to Sandhurst but determined to get into the years under house arrest. retirement. the Chin Hills to find the CO evacuated, Indian Army. He worked his way through Denson had to leave prematurely in Born in Sunderland, Denson went with wounded and himself in temporary com the ranks, was selected for Sandhurst and 1971 for medical treatment for a back his family to Cambridge while still a child mand as Captain. He relished the situation passed out third in order of merit. He condition in Hong Kong. But by then he and was educated at the Perse School. He and at a time of brief respite impressed joined the 1/4th PWO Gurkha Rifles, had done the job expected of him by pre served in the Royal Artillery during the everyone with his immediate grasp of the thereby following in the footsteps of a paring the way for his successor John last year of the war, then was transferred situation and his text-book knowledge. grandfather and several relatives. In 1941 Addis to become the first fully fledged to the Intelligence Corps and drafted to 32 33 women, soldiers and diplomats and aca he helped as Quartermaster to raise the 3rd BOOK REVIEWS battalion at Baldoh. demics, in his long career. Back in Eng by Lieutenant Colonel T.M. Lowe After Burma, he attended Quetta Staff land he would meet them and conduct College in 1945, thence assuming a staff their sons and daughters when they came appointment at Allied HQ in Indonesia, to visit or to study. High Asia by Jill Neate Unwin Hyman The Insider's Guide to Nepal where he was Mentioned-in-Despatches. £25.00 213 pages by Brian Tetley. Moorland Publishing After Indian Independence he joined the J M Evans For, perhaps, the first time we have a book £10.99 211 pages Royal Artillery, later serving as Military in which the approaches to the mountain From time to time Guide Books on Nepal Attache in South Korea for which he was peaks in Asia (all over 7,000 metres) have have been reviewed in the Journal of the appointed OBE. He retired after forty-six been gathered together in one place and Society. This is the latest book by the same authors of "Journey through Nepal" long years of service in 1981. ADDRESSES which, at the same time, is a book in which But not to put his feet up. He was each peak is examined from the point of which was reviewed in Journal No secretary of the Britain-Nepal Society for page view of its climbability, so to speak. The 12/1988. There is, of course, some simi several years and was active in the Anglo whole spectrum is arranged neatly into larity, but the present book is undoubtedly Korean Tibetan Society and latterly, the The Gurkha Welfare Trust 6 areas in which the Seven Thousanders are a better piece of writing. It is comprehens Friends of St Helena. He was involved in to be found e.g. the Eastern Himalayas, i ve, has a wealth of information which will local societies, was governor of two pri The King Mahendra UK Trust Kumaon and Garhwal, the Hindu Kush, assist not only the casual visitor, but the mary schools and a regular church-goer. for Nature Conservation 8 China and Tibet. high altitude trekker alike. "Who in the congregation could have Each of the areas is examined in geo The guide has a host of first rate photo guessed", said the local vicar at his The Britain-Nepal Medical Trust 12 graphical and historical detail, so that the graphs by the highly talented Mohammed funeral, "that this so likeable and humble time spent in extensive research is reduced a valuable reading list on almost man, had such a distinguished military YETI Association 28 to the minimum. Each main area has its everything to do with Nepal and a good career." own bibliography at the end of the book. index. Maps of many areas are provided A non-smoker, non-drinker and frugal The Britain-Nepal A 'Peak Index' and a 'People Index' and a useful pull-out map of the whole in his habits, Eric nevertheless sallied Otology Service 30 will give you some idea of the sort of country. At£ 10.99 the Guide is a good buy forth once or twice a year in his retirement people who are climbing in Asia and the and small enough to fit in a pocket (220 x on long visits to countries he had known, The Gurkha Museum 38 nationalities which they represent. This 140 mm). or to see friends he had made - men and does something to dispel the belief that it was only the so-called pukka sahibs who Qmlrtered Safe out here had an interest in climbing the highest by G.M. Fraser Harper Collins (Har peaks in Asia. You might wonder why well vill) £16.00 227 pages known figures in the world of high altitude Fraser, as many will know, is the author of climbing are not mentioned, but they were the Flashman series. This book is the story not what the author describes as 'sum of a British Infantry platoon in Burma miters' ie first on the summit. during World War n. It might lack some The price of this book is wen above of the excitement that the activities of average, but so too is the of the Flashman provided. book-style, photographs, the layout and For many who served in a Gurkha the presentation. The end papers show the Regiment during the battles in Burma, it geographical locations of the Seven Thou will be a reminder that Gurkhas were held sanders at a glance. The publishers are to in very high regard by men of a North be congratulated on the production of a Country Regiment. thoroughly useful book of reference. 34 35 SOME OTHER BOOKS OF INTEREST (Contributed by Lieutenant Colonel T.M. Lowe) TITLE AUTHOR PRICE PUBLISHER ~1itI Everest Reconnaissance C.Howard-Bury & £16.95 Hodder LI~RT G.L. Mallory "Of" nePIHL People in High Places A.Salkeld £14.99 Cape TANDOORI AND CURRY RESTAURANT The High Mountains of H.Dumler& £25.00 Hodder (Fully Air Conditioned) the Alps W.Burkhardt Private room available for up to 40 persons. Himalayan Climber D.Scott £17.95 Hodder Parties catered for The Glacier Peaks of the J.Neate £12.99 Hodder 268 KING STREET. HAMMERSMITH LONDON W6 OSP Eastern Alps TELEPHONE: 081-748,3586. 081-741 2057 Pipes, Kukris & Nips G .M.Forteath £14.50 Pemland Press John Masters- J.Clay £20.00 Joseph a regimemed life * Sons of John J.Gaylor £28.00 Spellmount Company 1903-1991 Lahore to Lucknow Edited by £19.95 Cooper (Indian Mutiny Journal D.Blomfield of A.M.Lang) Elephants Edited by £25.00 Simon & J.Shoshani Schuster The Turquoise Mountain B.Blessed £14.99 Bloomsbury High Drama in the D.Farson £16.99 Joseph NEPAL OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Caucasus (Jan 1993) * A cry from the Wild L.Ruben £13.95 Macdonald UPPER DOLPO DHAULAGIRI CIRCUIT ROLWALING VALLEY TESI LAPCHA RARA LAKE CHRISTMAS ADVENTURE '92 & '93. GURKHA CHRISTMAS TREK SPECIALISTS IN PRIVATE ITINERARIES * ofparticular interest Full colour brochure of these treks and other Himalayan Attention is also invited to the following new books by aut".ors well known to members of the Society:- Special Men, Special War (portraits of First In, Last Out An Unconvemional the SAS and Drofar) by Colonel B.M. British Officer in Indo-China (1945-46 & Niven MBE,MA (Obtainable in the UK 1972-76) by J.P. Cross, 233 pages, 26 from SAS Regimental Association, Duke illustrations £27.50 (Brassey's UK) of York's HQ Building, Room 39, Centre Block, London. SW3 4SQ) 36 37 NOTES ON THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY Winchester The Gurkha Museum Patron H.R.H. Prince Gyanendra B.B. Shah of Nepal President: H.R.H. The Duke of Gloucester, GCVO Our aim is to promote and foster good • a Spring or Summer outing to a place The Gurkha Museum commemorates the services of the Gurkhas to the British since 1815. relations between the people of the United of interest; Kingdom and Nepal. The Society was • receptions and hospitality for visitors The story starts with a view of the Gurkha and founded in 1960, under the patronage of from Nepal; Nepal, his homeland, before the visitor is taken His late Majesty King Mahendra Bir Bik: • the AGM in November and an annual through the main chapters of Gurkha military ram Shah Deva of Nepal during his State supper party in February or March. history from 1815 to the present day. Visit to London: Lord Hunt became the We keep in touch with the Nepal-Bri The displays cover the Gurkhas' service in the old first President. tain Society in Kathmandu which the late Indian Army which took them to battlefields across British and Nepalese subjects, and H.H. Field Marshal Sir Kaiser, a Life There is a car park beside the Museum. the world - the North West and North East business firms or corporate bodies resi Member of the Society, founded shortly Frontiers of India, France and Belgium, Gallipoli, dent in Britain or Nepal are eligible for before his death. The Gurkha Museum Mesopotamia, Burma, Malaya, North Africa, Italy membership. The Britain-Nepal Society has a grow and many more besides. The Gurkha Museum has something to interest people of all ages and is very suitable for a family Members include serving and retired ing membership and there is tremendous Gurkhas, mountaineers, members of the enthusiasm for Nepal. Our meetings, From 1948 onwards the displays cover the stOl) of outing. Besides tableaux, dioramas and showcases the four Gurkha nWrnents transferred to the British it has visual and voice descriptions of the history of Diplomatic Service, schoolmasters, doc which are usually well attended, provide Army and the corps which were subsequently Gurkha regiments and a gallery commemorating tors, nurses, businessmen and scholars. an excellent opportunity for members and raised to join them. They have served all over the the winners of 26 Victoria Crosses. Ordinary members pay a subscription their guests to get together. Our member world, induding the campaigns in Malaya, Brunei, of £10 per annum. Life members - a single ship, not counting Honorary Members and There is also a shop well stocked with things which Borneo and the Falkland Islands. payment of £150 and Corporate Members Corporate Members, is now well over five relate to Gurkhas and Nepal. £25. The Journal is sent free to all mem hundred. The number of serving Gurkha soldiers grew to bers. The President of our Society is His over 120,000 in each World War. Every Gurkha soldier has been a volunteer; nOne has ever been a Members of the "YETI" Association Royal Highness The Duke of Gloucester, conscript. Their graves lie in many parts of the for Nepalis resident or staying in Britain GCVO. world far from their home. Opening Times are welcome at all functions. They are The Committee welcome new mem Tuesday to Saturday lOam to 5pm eligible to join as full members in the usual bers amongst people with a genuine inter Today Gurkhas from the villages in the hills of way. They have a flourishing organisation est in Nepal. The address of the Honorary Nepal still serve as their fathers and grandfathers The Museum is closed on Sunday and Monday of their own and publish their own attrac Secretary is: did before them. The Gurkha Museum does except on public hoFdays. It is also closed on tive journal. The Society'S programme in honour to the memory and service of them alL Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year's Day. cludes: Mrs. Joanna Thomas monthly lectures or events from Oc 24 Carthew Villas tober to May in London; London. W6 OBS 38 39 r THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY President: His Royal Highness The Duke of Gloucester, GCVO Vice-Presidents His Excellency the Nepalese Ambassador The Lord Hunt of Llanfair Waterdine, KG, CBE, DSO, DCL Major-General JAR. Robertson, CB, CBE, DSO, DL Mrs. T.T. Brown Lieutenant Colonel C.G. Wylie Paul Broomhall Esq. A.R.H. Kellas Esq., CMG Brigadier A.B. Taggart, MC Sir George Bishop, CB, OBE Lieutenant Colonel H.C.S. Gregory, OBE, KSG Chairman: Colonel J.M. Evans, MC Vice-Chairman: B.W.E. Smith Esq. Honorary Secretary: Mrs. Joanna Thomas Honorary Treasurer: A.C. Durston Esq. Committee Members: Badri Prasad Khanal Esq. (Counsellor Royal Nepalese Embassy) Mrs. Iris Bolton Miss M. Gurung David Jefford Esq. H.B. Karki Esq. I. Manandhar Esq. (Co-opted) Roger Potter Esq. Mrs. S.M. Rana Peter Roberts Esq., OBE Lientenant Colonel C.N. Fraser (ex officio) Editor ofJournal: Lieutenant Colonel H.C.S. Gregory, OBE, KSG Produced by Glenburn Design and Electronic Publishing 40 r