OCTOBER 2013

Japan’s number one English language magazine

ALSO: The Sake Experience, Akita in Red, Momotaro’s Home Town, Movies, Events, and much more . . . OCTOBER 2013 CONTENTS 22

THE SAKE EXPERIENCE A journey across learning about the history and chemistry of nihonshu

7 28 32

ART SPECIAL RED IS THE COLOR TRAVEL IN Daniel Kelly tells us about a life lived Across the red spectrum, from a movie Castles, gardens, and the folkloric heart across cultures, and on the canvas monster rock to medal-winning beef of one of Japan’s favorite sons

8 Norman Tolman 18 Lexus: In the Driving Seat 40 People, Parties, Places Catching up with an art dealer, collector, Alberto Estévez’s advice from the roads of Saying goodbye to an ambassador and an and publisher before this month’s show Tokyo and the expat life old friend, and hello to the season’s festivals

10 Sumida Modern 21 Kagami Sisters 46 Movies Traditional crafts move into the Two sisters who have taken different A maligned classic from the 1980s gets a contemporary under SKYTREE’s shadow roads to the world of modeling new chance on the big screen 14 Living Design Center Ozone 28 Education Special 48 Agenda Five floors of home interior inspiration in A look at learning opportunities here and The Flaming Lips, KISS, the Tokyo the heart of Shinjuku abroad, and the benefits of polyglottism International Film Festival, and more Your Move. Our World. R EB AT L I E N

Celebrating 15 years in Japan, Asian Tigers Mobility C G •

FROM THE EDITOR S T 15 provides comprehensive relocation services to anywhere YEARS R • O N around the world, including within Japan. N A lthough autumn in Japan may not really begin G IN JAP OCTOBER 2013 Our services include home search and move management; until the vending machines start serving hot supporting every step of your new adventure. coffee instead of cold, we have to put some faith Publisher Bulbous Cell Media Group Chairman Ray Pedersen in our calendars too. So, as the mercury drops and Athe autumn leaves start to fall, we’d like to share some of the Executive Producer Asi Rinestine gifts that autumn brings to Japan. Editor Alec Jordan The reflective mood that this season often inspires is a Art Director Liam Ramshaw natural fit for art and design. We begin our tour of aesthetics Designer Camille Perry around Tokyo by sitting down with both Norman Tolman, the Illustrator Liam Akin

world’s leading publisher of contemporary Japanese prints, Media Director Kotaro Toda and Kyoto-based artist Daniel Kelly, as they prepare for Account Executives Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Kelly’s month-long retrospective show. Then we have a look Ohad Elbaz Masaya Okamoto around Sumida, a shitamachi city that has been revitalized by the SKYTREE project, and is breathing new life into Media Consultants Mary Rudow traditional crafts with Sumida Modern, and examine a local Marketing Ingrid Dubreuil

interior design destination. Strategic Consultant Andy Maher Then, as we venture outside of Tokyo, we head out on the sake trail. Sake brewing season begins this month, and we Society Bill Hersey

follow along with a Sami Kawahara, a young writer, as she Film Christopher O’Keeffe delves into the art, culture, and science of the world of sake, a journey that takes her from rice fields of Niigata to a vast Editorial Associates Vivian Morelli Matthew Hernon brewery in Hyogo. Henry Watts Next is a trip up north to Akita, where we have a look at Mace Bertumen the reds of this northern prefecture, in things as various as a Sami Kawahara

Shinkansen with the soul of a sports car and masks worn by Communication Officer Mami Nohmura participants in seasonal festivals. After dropping in at one of Hakone’s most exquisite hotels, we finish up with a visit to IT Manager Nick Adams Development Manager Stephane Boudoux Okayama, the home of one of Japan’s most beloved folkloric Fondue Guru Paul Romelot figures, and we take in some of the sights—and tastes—of this Finance & Admin Sakura Arimura often overlooked city. DBA Iryna Sundutova And finally, I’d like to take up the baton. I’m honored to be a part of the Weekender team as we move into the future, EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 and I’m looking forward to getting to know you, our readers, both online and in print. Thank you. Published by Bulbous Cell Media Group www.bulbouscell.com

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OCTOBER 2013 Email: [email protected]

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Fried Sushi by Liam Akin. To see more of Liam’s work check out www.friedsushi.net ALSO: The Sake Experience, Akita in Red, Momotaro’s Home Town, Movies, Events, and much more . . . Awarded APAC Destination Services Provider of the Year at the FEM Expatriate Management & Mobility Awards 2012 ART & DESIGN | FEATURE | 7

degree in the subject) and music. As he explains, “my ideas come from every- An ARTIST where: things I read, images I see. But I like working with mental images. I start with an idea and then search for images FOR ALL SEASONS to build the idea, like photos or making sketches. Most of my works in the studio The Weekender talks with Daniel Kelly on the eve of are not of things that exist.” Of course, bringing those images to life is never his October retrospective show easy: “I live with an image. We battle and we communicate. I hate to lose. In the his year, you could feel it after page), to talk with us about his work, and middle it is always the worst.” the last typhoon passed through, we started on the subject of art as a way His two preferred media are prints and the heavy weight of sum- of looking into the past. As he explained, and paintings. One reason his prints mer’s heat and humidity dropped whether it’s cave paintings or American stand out is the type of paper he uses— Toff our shoulders. It’s not as simple as a abstract art from the 80s, art opens a win- often heavier Thai or Nepalese paper, switch, because we still have some hot days dow into another time, and the way people which has a rougher appearance and to come. But it’s in the air: autumn is upon lived, thought, and saw during that time. yields prints that differ, even in the us. The turning of the seasons brings new Going further, he says, “I don’t same edition. As for the un- colors to the leaves, frost to our breath, and think we care to look back so pretentious nature—and sometimes, more reflective thoughts to our much as being contempo- I live cost—of prints, Kelly’s minds. With the beauty of our rary is the one thing we teacher Tokuriki told changing environment and cannot avoid. We leave with an image. him something that weather that can get us a little record of our We battle and we he has never forgot- thinking, some of us time.” ten: during the Edo also turn to something The year 1978 communicate. I hate period, a woodblock that can outlast the found Kelly in San to lose. In the middle print fetched the changing seasons: art. Francisco, where he same price as a We caught up was making sculpture it is always the bowl of soba. This with Daniel Kelly, at Fort Mason Center. On reminder of printing’s who has a retro- what he thought was short worst humble background spective this visit to Kyoto, Kelly visited the has kept him from taking month (see studio of Tomikichiro Tokuriki, a an elitist attitude towards his next twelfth generation woodblock printer. He work, particularly when it comes to had seen Tokuriki’s work in a book of prints printmaking. that he’d picked up as a student, and one of In keeping with his early background his teachers, Mort Levin, recommended that in sculpture, Kelly’s paintings are not lim- he check him out. What he wasn’t expect- ited to flat canvases. He paints on panels ing on his visit was for Tokuriki to ask him that are bent into undulating forms, and to be his student. Most of the printmaker’s he often makes collages of heavy paper, students lived full-time at the studio, but bamboo and tatami mats, and other Kelly supported himself at first by teaching found objects on top of these panels. It is English in and commuting to Kyoto over this chaotic substrate that he paints, when he could. He even made himself a creating works that must be seen in per- small watercolor set from a makeup kit so son. One example is the massive piece, he could paint on his commutes between Futsu (Local Train), which is based on Osaka and Kyoto. one of those tiny watercolor sketches that Studying with Tokuriki gave Kelly a Kelly used to make on his Osaka-Kyoto chance to broaden his technique, but it commutes, over 30 years before. also taught him many lessons about being We started our conversation with the a professional artist; Tokuriki was also subject of the past, so our last question his first buyer. He introduced Kelly to the was about the future of the art world. Hankyu Department Store in Osaka, where What trends did he think were on the he had his first show: a collection of land- way? “The art world is restoring a belief scapes filled with “mist, rain, bad weather, in beauty. For a while, people have been and landscapes with horizons you couldn’t saying that beauty is trite, but I don’t see.” Even though Kelly admits he’s not think that’s so. Most of the people who big on landscapes, and much more on say that really don’t make art, but they “expressing a mood,” his landscapes sold have been the ones dictating the rules. out. He’s been showing ever since, here in I’m happy to say that I think that beauty Japan and around the world. is about to be respected again.” Kelly’s interests run from art, to As the days continue to grow colder, politics, to psychology (he has a Master’s that’s something that should keep us warm.

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NORMAN TOLMAN THE PATH TO ART COLLECTING Hailing from Boston, Tolman first came to Japan with the US Air Force in 1955. Having studied Japanese already at Yale, his early experiences kindled an interest in Asian culture in general and Japanese prints THE CULTURE in particular. After the Air Force, college at UC Berkeley and an MA from Yale, he returned to Japan on a Fulbright scholarship to the Inter-University Center for Japanese OF COLLECTION Language Studies and Tokyo University, where he studied Japanese research on late Tibetan and early Chinese linguistics. After realizing, as he explained, “that there weren’t going to be that many people interested in a conversation on late Tibetan and early Chinese,” he shifted away from the ivory tower of academia and into the field of diplomacy. A career in foreign service sent him to Hong Kong, Tokyo, Sapporo, and Kyoto, and gave him the opportunity to begin private gallery in nearby Atago jinja mae of the larger ones by Daniel Kelly that will collecting Japanese prints. The decades has recently been added. As its presence in be shown at his retrospective, the scale after World War II were an excellent time the global art world has grown, the Tolman and price of these works place put them to collect prints, and prints still remain Collection has expanded to Hong Kong, in the range of more serious, experienced a lower-cost art investment for younger which maintains a gallery of both Japanese collectors. But works like these are not to buyers on a budget. Tolman began to amass and Chinese art, and to a New York gallery be thought of as expensive investments, a considerable collection, and as his passion run by a second generation Tolman in the they can become part of a family’s legacy, for print collecting and appreciation grew, art world, daughter Allison. The Collection or a powerful statement of a collector’s he realized that collecting meant more to has also had galleries in Singapore and personal and aesthetic philosophy. him than his day job. He decided to take a Shanghai, and a location in is risk and go into art dealing full time. opening in November. The Daniel Kelly Art Extravaganza Norman Tolman and Daniel Kelly go back a long way, and Tolman has nothing but admiration for his collaborator’s body of work: “He has a unique style and as he has gotten older, he has developed a very special work ethic, and is totally committed to his art. I have noticed this Starting out on this new venture initially Collecting Paintings and during the formation of this exhibition, meant that Tolman had to work several Prints: Who does it, and which is truly unusual, since it different jobs until he could sustain as where do you start? encompasses everything he does, prints an art dealer. As a judge for the annual Although most people buy for their own and paintings, both small ones and large art exhibition of the College Women’s pleasure, prints can be a smart investment masterpieces.” Another special element Association of Japan (CWAJ), he worked with for art lovers, especially younger ones, of the show is the camaraderie between the famous writer James Michener, who was because of the wide variety of pieces the two, which has allowed them to put a major figure in introducing Japanese art to available. Tolman explains that one of the together a show without the tensions the American public. He also wrote a weekly rewards from his work as a dealer is the that sometimes can arise between dealer column for the Mainichi Daily News, a job enjoyment he gets from it, and the broad and artist. that found him writing a profile on the artist range of the collectors he works with. “Art The month-long show will be a three- Toko Shinoda; this article was the very first is basically not a group thing: everyone has part extravaganza in celebration of n the art world, it seems like we hear of famous paintings step in a business relationship—he is her his own taste, his own likes and dislikes. Daniel Kelly and his work, and something selling for astronomical prices every now and then. Whether it’s main dealer, and has been for more than With prints the choices are seemingly of an “art crawl” in miniature that will Jackson Pollock’s No. 5, 1948 selling for $140 million in 2011, or half his life. unlimited and it is fun to be able to show show in three different locations: the this year’s sale of Picasso’s Le Rêve for $155 million, the prices what kind of a person one is by one’s main gallery in Shiba Daimon, the Tolman seem almost unbelievable, but it fits into one conception of the Galleries around Town, and collection.” The collectors he works with Collection’s private gallery in Atago Imeaning of art: art as investment. But, there are some of us who look at around the Globe have a range of interests that vary from the jinja mae, and MTR #1502. In keeping the subject differently: we enjoy art, but we don’t know exactly where Tolman opened his first gallery in a large, work of a single artist, to one specific color, with Kelly’s style, the opening reception to begin a collection. The prospect of buying something with an eye to traditional Japanese house in Suginami- to a particular subject. Others try to collect promises to be both artistic as well as a eventually sell it later can seem intimidating. ku, which was open for private showings broadly, in an attempt to cover all of the bit rowdy. Even though you won’t be able The Weekender sat down with Norman Tolman, one of the and appointments. After some time, bases. Some make a narrative with their to catch the opening reception by the prominent figures in the world of contemporary Japanese prints, to talk the collection moved to the charming pieces, creating a collection that tells the time of this printing, you shouldn’t miss about the art world, collecting prints and paintings, and his upcoming atmosphere of what used to be a geisha’s story of the life they have spent in Japan. the chance to see a full variety of this collaboration with Daniel Kelly. house in Minato-ku’s Shiba Daimon. A In the case of paintings, particularly some mercurial artist’s work.

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1 Home to a long tradition of cultural SUMIDA activities famous inside and outside Japan, MODERN this town lights up 2 the nights and tips 3 hat do TOKYO SKYTREE® and Hokusai’s “36 Views of Mt. Fuji” the scales with some have in common? “Not much,” you’d probably say. But it turns out that both of these great works, separated by more than a heavyweights—athletic hundred and eighty years (and several hundred meters!), are Wboth famous products of Sumida. One of Tokyo’s 23 special wards, it may not and artistic. have the modern fashion of Harajuku or Ginza’s glitz, but this shitamachi (downtown) city has an unpretentious ambience and a small-town charm. It’s already have a passion for the craft that they also a centuries-old center of craftsmanship that has been given a shot in the work in: to keep an crafts tradition growing, arm thanks to development of the world’s tallest tower. One example of this 1 Artwork promoting the many charms of Sumida City 2 you need to make sure that people in the development is the “Sumida Modern” project, which is infusing the techniques Pick up some Sumida Modern produce from the Solamachi community appreciate these traditions, and of traditional craft with the concepts of contemporary design. store 3 Youngsters try their hand at some craft work. that younger generations will be inspired Sumida was created when two smaller wards—Mukojima and Honjo—were to learn more about them, and continue to merged in 1947. These two towns had very different characters, a difference help put on weight: chanko nabe, a hearty dish innovate, while maintaining the traditions that you can tell even today as you walk around town: Honjo, the southern part of of meat, fish, and vegetables, cooked in a pot and have been passed along. With this goal in mind the city, has a neat, wide grid of streets that reveal its factory background, which eaten family style. There are many restaurants Sumida Modern has established “Sumifa,” and dates back to the samurai residences of the Edo period. The narrow, curved around Ryogoku—the neighborhood that is home Sumida City has established a program that streets and cherry-lined riverbanks of Mukojima, to the north, were part of a to the Kokugikan Sumo Stadium—that specialize in gives junior high school students the chance to fertile farming area during the Edo period, and a favorite location for Tokugawa chanko nabe. And let’s go back to Mt. Fuji: some of get involved with manufacturing first hand. shoguns for boating on the Sumida River and taking their falcons hunting. As the most iconic images of the famous peak were The name Sumifa comes from Sumida a symbol of the connection between natural beauty and the work of industry, created by Katsushika Hokusai in his “36 Views of + Factory tour. In the Sumifa program, SKYTREE stands nearly on the border of these historical towns. Mt. Fuji,” which examines Fuji-san from near and participants can visit factories and galleries far, with different parts of Kanto as a backdrop. around the area to see how products are Culture and History Hokusai was a native son of Sumida, living and really made, listen to talks and presentations Home to a long tradition of cultural activities famous inside and outside Japan, working here for most of his life. by manufacturers, and—because “crafts” this town lights up the nights and tips the scales with some heavyweights—athletic don’t always need to be things you appreciate and artistic. One of the largest firework festivals in Tokyo is the Sumidagawa Sumida Modern and the just with your eyes—drop in on a variety hanabi taikai, held on the Sumida River, and like most fireworks events in Japan, Community of partnering restaurants and cafes. This it used to be competitive, with teams doing their best to get the most appreciation Of course, there is also a strong crafts tradition fall, Sumifa activities will be taking place on from the crowd. Now, the event draws nearly one million people each year to see in this city, with some of the more notable November 8 and 9, and for more information, the night sky light up with “fire flowers” in every shade of the rainbow, and in handicrafts being cut glass, usually in the form you can visit www.sumifa.jp shapes that vary from smileys to anime characters. of cups and vases, and carved tortoiseshell. But The second program lets junior high school After Mt. Fuji, one of the typical images that will come to your head when the “Sumida Modern” movement has a mission students learn how some of the Sumida Modern you think Japan is an outsized sumo wrestler, and sumo has been a part of to take these traditional crafts, including food products are made, and get some hands-on Sumida’s culture for more than 200 years. Seeing the younger trainees biking products, and make them useful for today’s experience themselves. The schools program around, and occasionally bumping into some of the top-ranked wrestlers is not consumers. They describe the concept as takes place over three days, during which a rare thing here. And, if you’re interested in trying to bulk yourself up to sumo “Nostalgic, yet New.” One example of this concept students learn about branding, and see how size for a couple of hours, you can try the same dish that the big fellows eat to in execution would be a traditional craft such as products are manufactured, packed, and sold. lacquerwork, or urushi, and one way of using After reading about Sumida Modern, you this craft in a modern style would be making a might be wondering where you could buy these lacquerwork paper coaster: “nostalgic” tradition, products, or at least see them in person. TOKYO but very new usage. The branding certification Solamachi®, the shopping area at the base of requires high standards—of quality, design, and SKYTREE, is where you can find Sumida City innovation—for the products sold under this Point, a store that carries many of the items that brand. These authenticated products range from are sold under the Sumida Modern brand. elegant kimono fabric and metalwork business card holders to more humble products, such as For more information about erasers that don’t leave those annoying fragments Sumida Modern please visit behind and whimsical paper craft insects. the official website: But it’s one thing to support artisans who sumida-brand.jp

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EDO-TOKYO MUSEUM s you head up the steps toward the Edo-Tokyo Museum, the towering then try to transplant to my projects in Japan.” structure looms like part of a transforming robot figure from nearby As for her early impression of the standing Kindred workers, the motor-driven, height-adjustable Akihabara. But from the side, its historical roots are revealed: the A and Swedish-made Sit & Stand desks she saw building is built to look like a Japanese traditional warehouse. have been her flagship product ever since. The permanent exhibition space is like a step back in time: As you cross a “They are the de facto standard in reconstruction of the Nihonbashi Bridge, you can experience the atmosphere Swedish offices today, but are still relatively of those times. The “Edo Zone” of the museum displays the politics, lifestyle, Aesthetics rare in Japan. But interest in them is clearly and culture of the Edo Period. In the “Tokyo Zone,” you can see the changes By Karin Hamberg increasing. Hardly a day goes by without in lifestyle and culture through the Period and postwar reconstruction. someone calling to ask about them, which The current special exhibition is “Soul of Meiji: Edward Sylvester Morse, was not the case ten years ago. his day by day with kindhearted people” (until December 8, 2013). Morse, an “In Scandinavia, whole offices of large American zoologist who visited Japan three times, was fascinated by people’s companies are equipped with these desks, daily life and kindheartedness, and took a variety of items back to the US. This but in Japan I tend to sell them to smaller exhibition contains 320 items, including day-to-day tools and ceramic items offices, individuals, and many universities from the period as well as Morse’s own diary and sketches. all over Japan. The Swedish Embassy here in The Edo-Tokyo Museum is a three-minute walk from the West Exit of the Tokyo is also entirely equipped with our Sit & JR Sobu Line Ryogoku Station, and in front of the A4 exit of the Oedo Line Stand desks.” Ryogoku Station. www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/english/index.html So why should a company invest in these relatively expensive work stations? “Most people automatically think of the ew York City’s Museum of Modern Art, known as “MoMA,” has been a major MoMA DESIGN STORE physical benefits of ergonomics, but it’s also presence in the art world since its founding in 1929. Almost from the beginning, worth mentioning that when employees in an office feel better, productivity is increased the museum has made architecture and design part of its mission, and it N and communication naturally improves. rapidly became a powerful advocate for the importance of “Good Design” of products “There are also health concerns beyond used in daily life. For those who appreciate both form and function, MoMA’s Design you burning more calories by standing

Stores are a destination in themselves. Akira Furukawa by Photos instead of sitting. A major Australian Although there are retail locations for the Design Stores around , medical research project has established there had not been any stores outside of the US until 2007, when the first overseas A Bit of Scandinavia in the Heart of Tokyo a relationship between protracted sitting MoMA Design Store opened in the neighborhood of Omotesando. and many different medical problems. The All of the products in the store have been approved by MoMA’s curators, and the desks are also popular with people who have okiko Okabe got her first glimpse that have to spend many hours working there store features MoMA’s signature selection of merchandise, including MoMA-exclusive chronic back pain. of a Scandinavian-style office in each day. products and some of the most recognized items from the Museum’s Design Collection. “As for communications, you can the early 2000s while working for a “Secondly, it’s about ergonomics. I’ve There will be another MoMA Design Store opening for a limited time, in Ginza—from usually see a clear pattern in offices with marketing company in Tokyo. Her always been impressed by the innovation and November 1 to January 31, and possibly longer. For more information, please visit: Tdesigner’s eye was drawn to a row of people our desks. When employees are open to detail that goes into making Scandinavian www.momastore.jp (Japanese only). communicate with colleagues, they stand using standing desks the understated grace of offices safe, healthy and comfortable. up. In the standing position you have a space Special Offer: Receive a Special Gift on purchases over 10,000yen (including tax). which was somehow reminiscent of Japanese Then there’s the strong design tradition of design. Her curiosity was piqued and she set for a quick, improvised meeting, so the Please show this page at cashier. Valid one time per customer. Offer valid until: minimalistic elegance, which is distinct from, about learning more. workflow changes when Sit & Stand desks Thursday, 2013/10/31 (Cannot be combined with other offers/sale items) but not unlike, the Japanese tradition.” are introduced.” Soon she was in Sweden visiting Scandinavian companies are typically workplaces that were different from willing to invest more in the office For more information about Scandinavian the Japanese offices she knew. This trip environment than the average Japanese firm. sparked the idea of importing furniture and Okabe mentions branding as one reason for Modern furniture please visit the official bringing the esthetic behind these colorful, this. “Successful companies in Scandinavia webpage: scandinavianmodern.jp ergonomically sophisticated offices to Japan. understand brands as the distillation of many Her company, Scandinavian Modern, different messages and design their offices was born. Twelve years later, Okabe is selling accordingly. In other words, brands imported Scandinavian office furniture in her are for attracting customers as Roppongi showroom—but also bringing to well as employees,” she said. life her dream of creating a new kind of office Okabe visits in Japan. Scandinavia annually At first, many of her clients were major to meet with designers Scandinavian companies in Japan, or Japanese and exchange companies selling Scandinavian products. ideas. “Of course, But today her list of clients includes many it’s not possible to Japanese firms that have fallen in love with her simply bring the innovative solutions and designs. Scandinavian office over to Japan,” she But what is a said. “The cultural Scandinavian office? differences are too “For me, first of all, it’s about putting wide, and there are people in the center,” Okabe explains. “The space concerns. But I impression you get when visiting a certain get a lot of inspiration kind of traditional Japanese office is rather the and new ideas from opposite—a complete disregard for the people my travels, which I

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1 T h e r e’ s Even though each showroom features no place like home products that all have How the Living Design Center OZONE in Shinjuku makes this idiom more apt than ever their own identity, there

hen I look around my home, I see a As I walked from floor to floor, I noticed how, even is a common thread of space filled with a few basic necessities, though each showroom features products that all a couple of investment pieces, and have their own identity, there is a common thread of 2 sophistication accented some personal paraphernalia giving it sophistication accented by originality. You can choose 4 that lived-in feel. I’d love it to be a little how far to head towards either end of the design spectrum, by originality Wmore cohesive… a touch more stylish. But the problem is choosing to go for a more classic look or something a where to start, or how to bring it all together. After hearing little more edgy and quirky—or a combination of both, collect items from around the world. about the Living Design Center OZONE in Shinjuku, I was which is pretty much what the store has managed to do In fact, when it first opened in Japan curious to see what it could do for me and my interior- itself. Preferring to be a little more offbeat in my style, I 20 years ago, The Conran Shop sparked 3 design conundrum. would probably go for their restored vintage pieces, one major interest from the public who were Established 20 years ago, this home interior retail of the very nouveau-looking chandeliers that seem to be used to mainly Japanese-style furniture. complex is located in the Shinjuku Park Tower building, wrapped in a kind of plastic spiderweb, and perhaps the As a result, it has played a hand in the which is also home to the Park Hyatt Tokyo Hotel. It is big dining room bench that features a paint-dipping effect, growing popularity of European-style enough to get lost in, wandering around the 30 showrooms one half being blue and the other natural wood. furniture in Japan. and shops, spread over five floors. You could spend a couple The thing about OZONE is that it’s all about the Luckily there’s no need to worry too of hours alone in The Conran Shop. Yet the overall feeling is experience: they present products in a way that reflects much about trying to fit the furniture one of being greeted by a calm, organized, and visually very how we live. So you might find a living room setting into my small Japanese apartment, as appealing space. Staff is on hand to help you find the right featuring a variety of brands pulled together to provide a The Conran Shop is all too aware of the products and offer advice on how to incorporate them into home décor ‘solution’, if you will. 1 Check out cool dining at the Conran Shop 2 Showroom needs of modern lifestyles, saying it at Living Design Center OZONE 3 Satisfy all your interior your home, so there’s no need to feel overwhelmed. I also visited a couple of their lifestyle-themed design desires 4 Inspiring displays. requires “well thought-out, high quality and beautiful pieces of furniture that events, which are short-term product philosophy? A little something he likes to allow you to live well and fit more of the exhibitions. Offered year-round, these call a “style of life.” best into less space.” His own advice for events bring fresh trends into the mix He founded The Conran Shop in 1973 decorating a small space is to “choose and also show you how to incorporate in London and it has since grown to be furniture that is flexible, adaptable and them into your home. one of the leading lifestyle retailers in multi-purpose.” By the time I headed for the exit, I had the world with stores in Paris, New York Perhaps I need to rethink that earmarked at least a dozen pieces for my and Tokyo. Browsing the store, there were Japanese tea ceremony set. must-have list. One item I particularly fell certain pieces that stood out, like the in love with was a Japanese tea ceremony grey sofa designed by the owner himself set, complete with table and chair, which I many years ago. Although the design is THE OZONE LAYER was told is not commonly found in homes still his original, today you can choose to Address: Shinjuku Park Tower 3-7-1 these days. Now just to decide where to upholster it in over 300 different colors Nishi-shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, put it… and materials. Tokyo All pieces are hand-picked by a Website: www.ozone.co.jp The ConraN Shop - 3-4th floor merchandiser in the UK, and the focus is Open: 10:30-19:00 With three generations of architects and on functionality combined with design: (Conran Shop 11:00-19:00) one interior designer in my family, I’m in other words, not just showing off good Closed on Wednesdays no stranger to the impact British designer design, but demonstrating how to feature Terence Conran has had on lifestyle and it in your home. Around every corner décor. However, I’d never actually been to of the store you’ll find a home display, a Conran Shop before, so I welcomed the offering very specific presentation tips chance to visit the branch at OZONE. for those in need of inspiration. There are Back in the Swinging Sixties, the also regular special events that feature designer was part of the Pop Art scene, and selected products for a limited time period he and his fellow creatives were tired of not in a space that serves as a “shop within a having a wide choice of furniture at their shop.” The shop items change every two fingertips. He believed innovative, quality weeks, so each time you visit you can see design should be available to everyone, something new. so he decided to set up shop, curating a Thinking of my own home and how mix of expertly crafted and more casual I’d like it to have a cosmopolitan air, the accessories, all at accessible prices. His store seems like a place where I could

www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 ART & DESIGN | FEATURE | 17

Nippon Form - 4th floor

or your tatami mats and all other things Japanese. Think compact sofas, tables close to the floor, modern Seventh heaven ceramic chopstick holders and room presentations that demonstrate how to make even the smallest space A SNEAK PEEK AT 7 OZONE SHOWROOMS Fa functional tea-sharing area. The showroom displays and can recommend items that match current lifestyles in Japan, so the Nordic Form - 5th floor different designers featured here are chosen according to this criteria as opposed to how well-known they are. While in the past, f you’re the type who watches Mad Men and covets Japanese home interiors would’ve been very traditional, these the furniture featured, head straight for Nordic Form. days there is an increasing influence from the West, which means, As the name implies, the different brands on show for example, more sofas and less sitting on the floor. Nippon Form here are all from Denmark, Sweden and surrounding hosts mini events every two months so every time you visit the Iareas. A part of the furniture is rare vintage from the 50s showroom you’re pretty much guaranteed a different experience. and 60s that’s been restored to bring it into the present One of the more unique items currently on display is a range by tense, and the collection covers all aspects of the living area Jaime Hayon, a Spanish designer living in Kutani Choemon who including lighting. The products are mostly made of wood, has put a subtle Spanish twist on his Japanese products. which, together with the fabrics and design style, makes them popular in Japanese culture—in fact, the showroom is featuring one of the top selling chairs in Japan. Be sure to check out the colorful mat made from plastic, which is bound Rockstone - 5th floor to be a talking point in your home if nothing else. Nordic erhaps one of the most remarkable pieces here is a dining table with Form will be hosting an event from October 10 to December a finish in traditional urushi. This type of lacquer has been popular 24, featuring about 200 pieces of vintage furniture from the in Japan for a few hundred years but is usually only used on smaller 50s and 60s, the golden era of Nordic design. items such as miso soup bowls. The style of ROCKSTONE designer Eiri PIwakura, who first opened shop in 1981, is to take classic techniques like urushi and use them in his furniture design. The result of this unusual combination is a dining table that is at once ultra modern and ultra traditional. The same goes for the majority of items here, with a mix of old and new being the main theme. They feel more like works of art, which most probably also has something to do Team 7/Bedfitter - 6th floor with the manufacturing process—instead of making the entire piece himself, space shared by Team 7, an Austrian furniture maker that designs Iwakura starts off with a vision and then calls on different specialists, for beds as well as items for other areas of the home like the kitchen example woodworking or metal experts, to come together and collaborate. It and dining room, and bedfitter, a Japanese bed brand that also offers may take longer to create, but the end result is worth it. accessories in the way of mattresses and linen. Never before has a bedA looked so inviting as the Team 7 bed that’s set up in the main display area. Mobile Mobili - 5th floor It’s made for two but consists of two separate mattresses as they each have an adjustable, head-lifting feature that means reading in bed no longer requires a his showroom features eight different furniture brands mountain of pillows. The mattress is made from sheep and horsehair so it’s all- all from northern Italy. Each manufacturer has its own natural, and allows for optimum temperature and humidity control. Then, while characteristics but they are all united by a modern design your mattress is accommodating your changes in temperature and individual sensibility that is very specific to their shared origin. The reading needs, the bed base supports your body and sleeping position with materialsT used are also very distinct, with leather being one of the its wooden spring system and adjustable function while allows you to make it most popular fabrics. Every spring, the showroom manager visits either firmer or softer. Dreams don’t come sweeter than this. a furniture expo in Italy, where new pieces and manufacturers are sourced, with the aim of introducing new Italian ranges to Japan, while paying attention to the functional needs of people living in Daniel - 4th floor small spaces. You’ll feel right at home here if you’re the kind of person who enjoys shiny surfaces, no clutter, a monochromatic ver the last 150 years, this Yokohama- color code and a strong espresso for breakfast. based handmade furniture manufacturer has built a reputation for offering the finest craftsmanship in very traditional, solidO wood designs that could be described as the comfort food of furniture. It’s not going to challenge your senses; rather, this store provides a feeling of familiarity and belonging. This makes it all the more interesting that Daniel has just launched a new, more Atelier Mokuba - 5th floor modern collection called Camome, which seeks to omething feels very satisfying about seeing a piece of wooden furniture meet the style demands of the present age. It’s brighter, that still looks like it was part of nature. It somehow feels more authentic, lighter and, like all the furniture made by Daniel, is more earthy. Interestingly, this style is becoming more and more popular built to last a century (literally). The aim was to take in modern homes as cold, hard lines make way for rough edges, giving the tried and test techniques, so as not to sacrifice on Sthe furniture and home a more natural yet artistic feel. At Atelier MOKUBA, the quality, and collaborate with an outside designer to focus is on fashioning a long piece of rough-cut wood into a tabletop and bench create something more contemporary and casual. You to go with it. You can choose your cut, size and texture, which also means you can see evidence of this in items like the Muku Table can customize the wood for use as something other than a table. There are no with its clean-cut wood, sleek lines and simple brass two pieces alike and with this particular line only being three years old, there’s a plate constructed between the legs. good chance it’ll be a truly unique piece in your home.

OCTOBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 18 | AUTO | LEXUS LEXUS | AUTO | 19

With the Lexus, you have the comfort and IN THE DRIVing SEAT the protection, and you Photos by Akira Furukawa by Photos feel that security, but with Alberto Estévez at the same time, you ne thing is clear about Alberto Estévez in Hiroo. And, although he likes to keep organized, he have the design: the car Allegue: he is a study in contrasts. He met Masami, the love of his life, by chance: the two kept works for an insurance company, but running into each other again and again in the streets looks great from the he has ridden motorcycles and moved of Minato. thousands of miles away from his native During his decade and a half in Japan, Alberto rose outside. BarcelonaO to come to Japan. A fitness buff and a student of from being a part-time Spanish teacher to a chief officer lai-do, a sword-based Japanese martial art, he still knows post within the Spanish Embassy’s Economic and one of the best places to get great croissants in Tokyo - Commercial Office, and from there to the Fox School Bakery in Hiroo. An added bonus for Alberto is Sawamura Bakery, by the way; this famous Karuizawa of Business and Management at Temple University the whisper-quiet of the hybrid engine. Alberto institution in Nagano Prefecture has a nearby location and a CFO position with Spanish insurance company remarks that “all cars should be like this: no sound at all,” even though he admits that he does like to blast hard-rock music when he drives alone. For longer trips, some of the family’s favorite destinations outside of town include the quaint charm of Karuizawa, the tranquility of the Chuuzenji-ko area around Nikko, and the rugged coastlines of the Izu Peninsula. They MAPFRE’s Asia Pacific offices. He owes his made their decision an easy one in the end: appreciate the comfort and security of the steady rise to success to a fascination with “I owned a BMW Z4 and I’ve driven the X5 RX, but they enjoy the responsiveness and the the Japanese language, a natural interest in four times. A friend of mine has an Audi Q5, closeness to the road of its sporty handling. people from all ages and all walks of life, and so I’ve driven that as well, and I had a look As Alberto and his wife move on to the a thirst for new experiences. at the Range Rover. But in the end, if you challenges of raising a child, he is already Both he and his wife loved the idea put together design, quality, and price, our passing on his love of language to his son: of a convertible, but when they found out choice was easy. After a test drive, we didn’t Masami speaks only Japanese to Ian, and that Masami was pregnant with their son even need to go to the other places. We drove Alberto speaks to him only in Spanish, and Ian, they knew that they needed to make a it and we liked it.” learning English won’t be too far away. Alberto practical choice. But they still wanted a car The Estévez family says that the RX is had one final piece of advice for drivers with a sporty heart. They had heard good great for daily trips and weekend breakfasts handling the roads and traffic jams of Tokyo, things about Lexus from their friends, so on Tennōzu Isle (one of their favorites is TY Japan, and newcomers to the expat life, he they decided to drop in at the Lexus and Harbor Brewery’s Bread Works) and other answered, “just relax, and take your time: you Toyota showroom in Odaiba. They were places around Tokyo, like the Sawamura will get to your goal.” impressed by the looks of the RX450h, and they decided to go to the Lexus showroom in Takanawa, nearby the JR Shinagawa Station, The RX450h IN DETAIL and take it for a spin. From the beginning, This crossover model combines the they were impressed by the responsiveness best of both worlds: the handling and of the Lexus SUV. As Alberto explained, if you performance of a luxury sedan combined compare the Lexus to the BMW’s SUVs, “it’s with the safety and convenience of an SUV. more sensitive: when you put your foot on The whisper-quiet hybrid engine provides the pedal, you get the response very quickly. fuel efficiency, and the V6 engine delivers responsiveness at any speed, thanks to With a BMW, you have to push the pedal all its state-of-the-art Variable Valve Timing the way to the floor to get a response.” with Intelligence (VVT-i) System. It wasn’t just the performance of the car A conveniently placed instrument panel that got their attention, it was also Lexus’s puts all the driving information you need hallmark blend of elegance and minimalism at less than a glance away from the road that caught Alberto’s eye: “It’s gorgeous, but Superior safety features, including class- it’s not sumptuous; it’s Spartan, but it feels leading 10 airbags, active front headrests, and available collision protection and like a premium car,” he explained. Putting blind spot monitoring technology. the BMW next to the Lexus, Alberto had no doubt: “It’s more bulky, and rougher than Seating room for five and storage space that can be configured to any need. the Lexus. With the Lexus, you have the comfort and the protection, and you feel that A sound system that brings your music to life, and an available professionally security, but at the same time, you have the tuned 330-watt Premium Surround design: the car looks great from the outside.” Sound Audio system. The complete package that the RX450h offers http://lexus.jp/twe/

www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 FASHION | FEATURE | 21 The Kagami Sisters: Leyna came across as someone who really likes to talk, even though a degree of shyness Car sales also came through. Surprisingly for a model, Buybacks Mirror Images, she seemed reluctant to show off her pictures and was genuinely embarrassed when I ShippingAuto sales /Importing/Exporting Shipping / Insurance / Servicing / Accessories looked through them, especially when we Car Maintenance/Shaken stopped at the semi-nude picture she did with Seira for the cover of Anan, one of Japanese’s Solo Paths mot popular magazines. “I initially didn’t want to do it and do feel self-conscious when people look at that JCE Autos is Tokyo’s leading English speaking car picture, but in the end I was glad I did it. I company specialising in new and used vehicle sales, don’t think it is pornographic at all, it was kind vehicle buybacks, international door to door ship- of classy and it has undoubtedly helped my ping and vehicle servicing. Our team of experts, with career. My parents were also happy with it. a combined total of over 50 years in the automotive My Dad was a little angry at first, but when it industry, guarantees a professional and personal level came out he bought loads and gave them to his of service that other companies cannot offer. friends. Showing off half-naked pictures of his daughters! It was too weird, I had to stop him Please contact us for any inquiries that you may have in the end,” she says laughing. as it would be our pleasure to assist you with all of Seira, meanwhile, didn’t really need much your automotive needs. persuading to do the shot. Seemingly the more confident of the two, she revels in the attention Tel: 03-6868-3366 she receives and knew the offer from Anan [email protected] was something they couldn’t turn down. “It was a major thing,” she says. “I mean as a model in Japan it doesn’t get much bigger than appearing on the front cover of Anan. I know Leyna was really nervous about it and so was I to a certain degree. More than anything though, I felt excited about doing it.” Unfortunately, now that they are working hen an agency discovers a new she left Now Fashion, where she worked for different agencies, we are unlikely to be model one of the first questions alongside Leyna, to join Amuse Inc. in order seeing them together in many photo shoots they must ask is do you have to get more TV work. Since making the move in the future. Like the Delevingne sisters (the any siblings? she has starred in movies, dramas and a current “It girls” of the fashion world), Seira AfterW all, good looking genes are supposed number of variety shows including and Leyna Kagami are independent young to run in the family. They certainly seem to Dining with the Chef, a women determined to go their own way. in the Kagami household where sisters Seira popular Japanese Yet as they head off on different career and Leyna have earned themselves quite a cuisine cooking I do feel paths, it would appear that both are reputation as two of the country’s leading programme on moving in the right direction. fashion models. NHK World self-conscious By Matthew Hernon Born to a French-Canadian father and a that is filmed Japanese mother, the young ladies have both entirely in when people look at been blessed with the kind of radiant, exotic English. the photo, but in the appearance that is so popular in the fashion “Japan world right now. They certainly sparkle in front is not like end I was glad I did of a camera, yet behind all the glitz and the America glamour, what are they really like? or the UK; it. I don’t think it is Wanting to find out, Weekender recently here you met up with both of them, on separate are expected pornographic occasions, and discovered that while they look to be able to do at all alike, they have hugely contrasting personalities everything,” Seira and career goals. explained. “Of course “We are different in every way,” said there are times when it is hard and younger sister Leyna. “From the way we dress I can get nervous especially when I am on to the way we think, we are poles apart. I think a programme with certain comedians. That there has always been a rivalry between us; I said I really love entertaining, meeting new just didn’t realize it until my career took off. people and trying new things. It is such a fun “It was Seira who introduced me to this industry to be involved in.” industry, but I don’t think I will be following Seira has seen her stock rise in recent her into the entertainment world. I could never years and is now a big name in Japan. As a do what she is doing. I want to concentrate result she appeared to be more media-savvy on modelling, whereas she is trying to be than her sister when we sat down for the everything; an actress, singer, comedian. I get interview. Her answers were more cautious the feeling that she finds it really difficult.” and careful. Her younger sister, on the other If she does, she doesn’t show it. Seira seems hand, spoke with greater freedom and was to be at home in the celebrity world. In 2009 far more expansive in her responses.

OCTOBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 22 | FEATURE | SAKE TOURISM SAKE TOURISM | FEATURE | 23

On the road Even the top judges and experts seem to have different ideas of what makes a great bottle, and this gave me the courage to go deeper into On the sake trail the industry and to find out about more than just sake production. So, I made my way out of check the year it was bottled, the Tokyo and visited two breweries in the quiet region it’s from, and confirm which countryside of Japan. climate and soil type yields the best There are two distinct ways sake is made harvest for the terroir—all before in Japan—industrially and agriculturally. takingI my first sip. As a California native, Wanting to see both first-hand, I hopped this all seems like a typical Napa Valley on the Shinkansen and went to Niigata tasting room process. prefecture first, to see an agriculturally But I am not in the vineyards of produced sake at Nechi Otokoyama, then Northern California, nor am I at a south to Nada, in Hyogo, to see industrial Bordeaux Château. I am in rural Japan, production at Sakura Masamune. visiting the rice fields of Nechi Valley Sake, better known of course as nihonshu and the mountains of Nada. I am here in Japan, is made of only four ingredients: to embark on a journey that will, I hope, rice, water, koji mold, and yeast. With such lead me to discover and understand the basic elements, each resource must be complexities of sake. carefully selected. But what exactly is sake? The answer Yoshiki Watanabe, sixth generation head is not so simple, and understanding brewer at the Nechi Brewery in Niigata, the drink and all of its elements may has a unique philosophy that earned him a seem an impossibly difficult task. But number of IWC medals and a 2010 Sake of the on my exploration of the sake industry, Year trophy. Watanabe’s brewery, founded plants fight off insects and diseases without the most popular specialized rice for sake I felt warmly embraced, realizing this in 1868, uses a self-sustaining production the need for pesticides. brewing. This “King of Rice” thrives in the alcohol was produced in a pure and model, growing its own rice near the brewery. Fresh water snakes down Mt. warmer climate of Nada, ripening slowly and straightforward way, while offering to see firsthand the strong differences Watanabe strongly believes that the “essential Amakazari, and streams feed the budding developing complex flavors. so many unique layers for tasting. It’s between Japanese and Western palates. “Sake is like a ski value of sake is producing local sake with sake fields; since sake is made up of 80% water, Although Sakura Masamune uses local something you can explore freely and When given a flight of sake to judge, on a rice made in its local land.” In 2003, Watanabe it is even more important. Nutrients in the resources, the integration of growing and develop your own palate for, without the 100-point scale, a Japanese judge would slope that has not began growing rice specific to fitting Niigata’s water feed the yeast cells that take care brewing was very different from Nechi. At the intimidation factor. rate one sake a 55 while a Western judge wintry climate: this rice matures and is ready of fermentation. Therefore, the yeast’s industrial brewery almost an hour away from the “Sake is like a ski slope that has not would rate the same sake an 85. yet been skied on. for harvest early. performance is affected by the nutrients it rice fields, there is a multi-story factory building yet been skied on. Fresh tracks where you “The Western palate is very direct, very big. After enjoying an afternoon tea in feeds on. In Nechi Valley, the water is soft yet across the street from a gift shop, café, museum, can lay down your own path,” says Beau We don’t do well on nuance and we are big Fresh tracks where his traditional tasting room, we headed rich in calcium and minerals, resulting in a and restaurant complex. After a kaiseki lunch, Timkens, a leading American sake expert. on impact. More subtle sake is what the outside to explore the location of his fields. smooth, subtle and clear sake. it was time for my white lab coat and hair net to “There’s not a lot of people out there Japanese palate prefers,” Timken observes. you can lay down Nechi Valley, home to acres and acres of The Nada district, producing 30% of investigate how the bottles of sake surrounding telling you what to drink or telling you “Although now we are starting to see the Watanabe’s rice, is perfectly placed between all of Japan’s sake, uses harder water, me were made. this is good and that is not.” younger generation of both Japanese and your own path” the Sea of Japan and rocky Mt. Amakazari on containing much phosphorous, potassium As a judge at the world renowned Western palates get bigger and prefer more the border of Nagano, allowing winds to blow and calcium. This allows fermentation to IWC sake competition, Timkens was able direct flavors.” from the sea over the fields by day, and in the occur quickly and builds a solid structure GOLD MEDAL SAKE opposite direction by night. This, Watanabe to the sake. Sakura Masamune in Nada, The annual International Wine Challenge, founded says, is a perfect combination to help rice the second stop on my brewery tour, uses in 1983 and based in London, is one of the most resources developed influential wine challenges, playing a significant over a rich, 400- role in the pricing of wines around the world. year history. Mr. In 2007, the IWC introduced a sake division that Yamamura, 11th has developed into the biggest sake competition generation head outside of Japan. The challenge plays an integral brewer, explains role in the reputation and brand power of a sake that this hard water, by awarding gold, silver and bronze medals to the top 15 sakes before crowning the Sake Champion called “Miyamizu,” winners. Medals are awarded in five categories: 1) was the discovery of Honjozo: 70% polished 2) Ginjo and Daiginjo: 60% the 6th generation polished 3) Junmai: No specification 4) Junmai- head brewer, in Ginjo and Junmai-Daiginjo: 50-60% polished 5) 1840. It is a well- Koshu; aged sake. During this two-day challenge, known water in sake 40 judges are split into panels that blind taste more production circles, than 500 varieties. Judges give individual scores, and used exclusively and then discuss until a consensus is reached. Both for brewing in Nada. Watanabe’s Nechi Brewery and Sakura Masamune Sakura Masamune have won medals each year since 2008. In 2010, also produces Nechi Brewery was crowned Champion Junmai Daigingo for its Nechi 2008 variety. Yamada Nishiki rice,

www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 24 | FEATURE | SAKE TOURISM

Steps to sake success Beau Timken’s To begin to understand how sake is produced, we can loosely compare it to wine and beer. Sake is General Rules similar to wine in that different rice and different further assessments. John Gauntner, the grapes yield different varieties. However, beyond “Anything coming only non-Japanese Master of Sake in the the types of rice, the amount of “polishing” of world, gave a few guiding principles for for Pairing the rice generally determines the quality and from the ocean, I the basic sake drinker. However, one variety of sake. Polishing, or stripping the rice of underlying theme in his advice was that unwanted oils and lipids in the outer layers, is the would match with a s a strong believer in pairing sake with there is no real consensus. Whether it’s Japanese food as well as Western food, first step in the production process (see sidebar starch-based sake over pairing food, etiquette when tasting, or Timkens gives us his general rules for on the previous page for varieties and percent how varieties are split up, he says that matching food with sake. He begins with of polishing). After polishing, the rice is washed, a ‘grape juice’ (wine) everyone might give a different answer Athe daiginjo category. Rice is polished to at least 50% soaked, and steamed, with each step carefully based on personal experience. Rather than and the resulting drink is generally light, complex timed as only a matter of seconds can change the any day. Sake has a rules, then, Gauntner offers more general and quite fragrant, making it traditionally go well overall result. fundamentals. with very light appetizers. Next, the ginjo’s light, After the rice is cooled, the fermentation place at the table. It With all the different varieties out clean presence pulls out flavors and pairs well with process begins. We can now compare sake to there, it can be hard to keep track of which lightly prepared meals. The junmai category is for beer because both are unlike wine, where sugar is not this novelty, sake is more premium than the next. the center of the plate. It has more structure, and is naturally found in the grape, ready to be But it is easy to remember: “If you drink is similar to red wine. A big, fruity nama genshu fermented into alcohol. Sake and beer are made it is a player and an something with the word ginjo on the (unpasteurized sake) goes well with international from rice and wheat with no natural sugars, incredibly valuable bottle, or ginjo is somewhere embedded spices, for example Thai or Indian cuisine. Nigori, making it necessary to first convert its starch in the word, you are drinking the top 10% an unfiltered, cloudy sake, is also great for bigger into sugar before being able to ferment into international cuisine or can be used as a substitute tool in the arsenal of of sake out there,” Gauntner notes. “And alcohol. Here, sake differs from beer because the for dessert wine. Hanjozo, sake with a small addition most of the time you’re going to want to two conversions - starch to sugar, then sugar to of distilled alcohol, is perfect for anything coming food pairing” drink your premium sake slightly chilled.” alcohol - happen simultaneously with sake and in off the grill. Koshu (aged sake) pairs well with big With sake’s rich tradition, I imagined two steps with beer. left to ferment for around 30 days. game such as wild boar, duck, pheasant or goose. only drinking sake in a wooden, “masu” Sake fermentation begins with a mold called Once fermentation is complete, sake is Sparkling sake compliments a cheese board, and box while being intimidated by all the koji-kin. This mold releases enzymes to facilitate the extracted from the solid mixture by filtration. Timkens concludes by stating that the more complex etiquette and culture that comes along the cuisine, the higher the acidity. starch-to-sugar conversion. The koji mold powder Depending on the variety, sake is handled with it. But I learned that sake is actually is sprinkled over the steamed rice and checked over differently from pressing to bottling. Sake can better tasted in stemware. Instead of the next few days until each grain is covered in be pasteurized, unpasteurized (namazake, or sipping in a small, porcelain cup as we STARTERS & Appetizers mold. This mixture of mold and rice is called koji. ‘fresh’ sake), aged (koshu), roughly filtered The light and fragrant tones of a most commonly see, sipping from a wine After the koji is made, the yeast starter, (nigori), undiluted (genshu), ordinary (futsushu), Daiginjo compliment light starter glass, helping us see clarity and take in known as moto, is created by mixing the finished sparkling, and more. dishes and appetizers like seafood the aroma, enhances the whole tasting koji, additional steamed rice, water, and yeast. salad or maybe some calamari. experience. You may even be able to feel Over the next two weeks, the yeast is multiplied Time to drink that “touch of yogurt on the nose” or the and ready to take to the big fermentation and MAINS And now, with this newfound knowledge of the “rich, cheesy, round, earthy” style that brewing tank. In the fermentation area, large different types of sake and how it is produced, Koshu is the perfect accompaniment many of the IWC judges noted in the for a full-bodied main cause such as metal tanks fill up rows of space in the humid how do I drink it and what do I pair it with? competition. duck or pheasant. This aged sake pairs room. In these tanks, more rice, koji and water Having met some IWC sake chairmen on the When pairing sake with food, well with the strong flavours of game. are added three different times over four days to brewery tour, along with a production team Gauntner explains that mismatches are make sure the yeast can keep up with all of the from the Discovery Channel, I decided to contact rare. Sake sommelier Beau Timkens adds, additions. After the final addition, the “mash” is DESSERT local and foreign experts of sake to gather “Anything coming from the ocean, I would Nigori is generally the sweetest of all match with a starch-based sake over a sakes, with a fruity nose and a mild ‘grape juice’ (wine) any day.” He points flavor. It’s a great drink to compliment out that “sake has a place at the table. It a dessert like chocolate torte. is not this novelty, it is a player and an incredibly valuable tool in the arsenal of food pairing.” Timkens emphasizes that there are endless ways to pair sake with food but it simply comes down to making the decision to make your way into the sake world. Both Timkens and Gauntner agree that “people just need to go out and try it.” Feeling enlightened, I realized that exploring the roots of Japan’s sake industry and the drink’s boundless forms is something everyone should try. So, “take that bottle of sake home, bring it with you to the BBQ, or to that Italian restaurant,” Timkens says. “I dare you.”

AOCTOBERugust 2013 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 KANAGAWA | PROMOTION | 27

Guests can complete the night with a nightcap at the floating bar on the fifth floor or a night stroll around the premise—a perfect ending to a relaxing day

The receptionist explains that there are 20 guest rooms in four different styles, designated with the names Kaze, Hoshi, Sora and Tsuki (wind, star, sky and moon). Each type has its own distinct charm. The Tsuki room on the first floor, for example, faces out on to a Japanese garden, while from the Kaze rooms on the fourth floor, guests can natural ambiance—and perhaps enjoying they just keep on coming. After the 12-dish take in the breathtaking mountainous view. the mini-bar or room service drinks—is dinner, guests can complete the night with a The traditional Japanese style of the Sora truly an unforgettable experience. nightcap at the floating bar on the fifth floor rooms on the second floor and the more If the private baths aren’t big enough or a night stroll around the premise—a exotic Balinese style Hoshi rooms on the for you, there is always the option of one perfect ending to a relaxing day. third each have their own charm, and no of the three public baths in the hotel, For breakfast, guests have a choice detail is missed. two of which also have a sauna and between Western and Japanese style. Although old traditions and customs are one with an infinity pool. The baths are Western style includes yogurt, fruits, strongly present, comfort is not lost thanks conveniently open for most of the day, French bread, croissants and cereal. But to all of the modern amenities you would from 5 am to 1 am, with a two-hour break if you opt for Japanese style, miso soup, expect from a world-class hotel, including between 1 pm and 3 pm for cleaning. rice and fresh fish can be enjoyed. a widescreen TV, DVD player, music system Not quite relaxed enough yet? There is Ginyu is truly a special resort and mini bar. There are lounge and dining also the option of the Ginyu Spa. Offering that caters to anyone, whether on a areas for breakfast and dinner, comfortable guests soothing massages, facial treatments business trip or with family. But it seems beds, a pull out futon, and a large shower and reflexology, it is the perfect place particularly suitable for couples: “it with sliding doors leading out to the balcony. to unwind before retiring to one of the is a popular destination for marriage Hakone Ginyu But the feature that sets Ginyu apart from private stone baths for a soak. Prices vary proposals,” according to Managing the rest is the personal outdoor hot spring depending on the treatment you choose, Director, Akihiro Ota. With prices bath in every room on the terrace. though we recommend the 120-minute ranging from 33,000 to 68,000 yen per Perfection in the mountains Lying back in the steaming hot water body massage, two hours of pure bliss in the head for a one-night stay, it certainly (cool water can be added with the press of a hands of a skilled therapist using original isn’t cheap, but it is worth the once in a Modern and luxurious, yet traditional, with Japanese elements kept button if it gets too hot) while taking in the techniques. lifetime experience. In between soaks, intact, Ginyu Ryokan offers some of the best that Hakone has to offer guests can enjoy an Getting There incredible kaiseki or From Hakone Yumoto station it is

s a Travelers’ Choice Award Tozan line). But for those who are planning to shabu-shabu meal a 15-minute taxi ride to the hotel. recipient in 2012, expectations do a lot of sightseeing in the area, be warned: from the comfort Alternatively, you can use the Hakone were high for this ryokan resort. this place is difficult to leave. With soothing of their own room. Tozan Rail Line to Miyanoshita Station. And as it turns out, Ginyu does spas, relaxing hot spring baths, delectable food Using seasonal Once at the station, it is a very short walk Anot disappoint, with its stunning views of the and luscious green surroundings, spending the ingredients, the chef down the hill. There is also easy access to nearby mountains, top quality meals that can weekend relaxed in a yukata feels like the most prepares a series many of the town’s top tourist sights. be enjoyed in your room, and impeccable natural thing to do here. of fish, meat and service from attentive staff catering to your Upon arrival, guests are greeted with vegetable dishes For more information about Hakone every whim. a refreshing cocktail as the enthusiastic, that look almost too Ginyu please visit the website: Just a two-minute walk down the hill from English-speaking staff explains the hotel beautiful to eat. But www.hakoneginyu.co.jp Miyanoshita Station, Ginyu is conveniently amenities. As they make their way from when you do, each Address: 100- 1 Miyanoshita, Hakone- located with easy access to many of the top reception on the 5th floor to the balcony, they dish ends up tasting machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa tourist sights in Hakone (the Open Air Museum, can take in the expansive view of the steep as good as it looks Prefecture 250-0404 for example, is just two stops away on the valley and the Haya River. and fortunately, Tel: 0460-82-3355

OCTOBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 50 shades of red Looking just like a petrified version of its namesake—Godzilla—Gojira Rock has to be one of Japan’s most unique natural rock formations. While the giant monster looks, well, a bit fossilized during the day, at dusk it comes to life, a black silhouette in AKITA against the red-orange sunset. The rest of colder months. It comes out in festival Shiosezaki Cape’s rocky shore is beautiful lanterns and bright masks, sunsets and too, making this a good stop along the Oga winter fires. Even the new Akita Super Peninsula’s coastline. Komachi Shinkansen’s red and white color scheme reflects the importance of Getting there this color to the region. While there are The best way to get to Akita is the Akita many ways to experience the reds of Shinkansen from Tokyo or Ueno station. Akita, here are a few of the best ones. the mountainside is set ablaze with the fiery Check with the JR counter to be sure to get reds, yellows, and oranges of the changing a seat on one of the new E6 Super Komachi Super Komachi leaves. Various evergreens act as stunning trains. For Gojira Rock and the Namahage Debuting in March 2013, the Super pinpoints of contrast, accentuating the bright Sedo Matsuri, take the JR Oga line from Komachi is not only Japan’s newest and colors cast by the oak, maple, alpine cherry, Akita Station to Oga Station. From there fastest Shinkansen, but also its most and Japanese ash trees. While the view of the take the Akita Chuoukoutsu bus: OGA-south stylish and comfortable. Traveling at 300 mountainside from the bottom of the well- line to Hokakejima bus stop (30 minutes, km/h, the Super Komachi winds its way maintained trail is impressive, hiking 90 min- ¥590) and walk to the coast. Buses from through Tohoku’s scenic fields, towns, and utes to the summit and looking down on the Oga Station to the Sedo Matsuri run regu- valleys. Thanks to a state-of-the-art active array of colors is intoxicating. After taking in larly throughout the festival. The best way the views, it’s worth stopping to soak in an to reach Kurikoma Sansou is by airport suspension system, a spacious interior Namahage and ergonomic seats, the 3 hour and 45 onsen at the Sukawa spa resort, overlooking bus: Kurikoma line (2 hours 30 minutes, Every New Year’s Eve, the namahage sweep minute ride from Tokyo to Akita City the mountainside, as well as a quick rest at ¥10,000). Alternatively, from Ichinoseki down from the mountains into the villages s the air turns chill and the days passes in a flash. the Kurikama Sansou Ashi no Yu footbath. Station take the Iwate Kotsu bus: Sukawa of Akita’s Oga Peninsula. Faces bright red, slowly get shorter, the green And what a stylish flash it is. While onsen line (1 hour, 30 minutes, ¥1,450). “With the cool air carrying drums and heavy knives they pound tones of Akita summer give way most train designs appeal only to a small Yoshihira Beef on doors demanding entry. But despite their the blaze of red-orange-yellow group of hobbyists, the Super Komachi’s Little known outside of the region, Akita’s of October, the frightful appearance the namahage are not autumnA leaves, the warm fires of home, exterior is nothing if not cool. With its Yoshihara Beef seemingly came out of demons, but guardians against sloth and and torches carried down from the moun- sleek profile, crimson front and a roof that nowhere to take second prize at Japan’s mountainside is disharmony. Watching from their mountaintop tains by crimson-faced namahage. It is the calls to mind images of Akita’s red-faced premiere beef competition, the Wagyu Olym- perches throughout the year, they see all in the time to dig into local foods cooked over the namahage and fiery festival lanterns, pics. The beef is beautifully marbled, with villages below. Their noisy entrance expels evil set ablaze with the orange flames of an irori hearth, a time the train looks more like a luxury sports wisps of white threading through the bright spirits, they scare unruly children into behav- to appreciate the bright color and smooth car than public transit. And with design red meat, and incredibly tender. To sample ing, and they promise good luck to families who flavors of prize-winning local beef. A time overseen by former Ferrari designer Ken this local delicacy, try Ichiyoshi in the town fiery reds, yellows, are getting along and working hard. when early sunsets make a dramatic back- Okuyama, it’s easy to see why. Combin- of Yurihonjo, 40 minutes south of Akita City. Today, young men in the towns put on the drop to the mountains, casting the sight in ing style, comfort, and speed, the Super Housed in an historic Edo-period building, and oranges of the red mask and long straw cape of the nama- warm waves of color. Red is a primal color Komachi brings Akita closer to Tokyo than this ryotei-style restaurant serves Yoshihira hage and go door-to-door terrorizing children of Akita, one that comes out most in the ever before. beef and excellent local fare. It is well worth changing leaves” into good behavior and amusing the adults. the trip and the price. Although the namahage typically come out on New Year’s Eve, there are festivals throughout Gojira Rock the winter, the biggest being the Nagahame Jutting out into the Sea of Japan, Akita’s axe- Sedo Matsuri, on the second full weekend of shaped Oga Peninsula is well known for its February. Here, visitors can watch the torch- stunning, craggy coastline and impressive lit procession of namahage as they tramp rock formations. None though, through the snow, growling menacingly before are as famous or bestowing them with good luck for the year impressive as to come. The experience is at once eerie and Gojira raucously festive. Despite the flash of cameras Rock. it feels like being carried back to a much older time when, for one night at least, the namahage ceased to be villagers in bright red masks and became true crimson-faced deities of the mountains.

Kurikoma Sansou Nestled in the serene environs of the Kurikama Quasi-National Park at Akita’s southern tip, Kurikama Sansou is a beauti- ful getaway year-round. With the cool air of October, though, Japan’s No. 1 international property site Japan’s first and largest international real estate portal

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“Next to Okayama Castle is Okayama THE CASTLE TOWN Korakuen Garden, one of the most WITH A GARDEN HEART impressive gardens In Japanese folklore, Momotaro - or Peach Boy - was the child of an elderly couple, a heroic young in Japan, and the boy who protected the city, doing battle against a horde of demons on Onigashima - Demon Island. recipient of a three- Okayama is a city that is strongly connected with Momotaro’s story, and has a strong connection star rating from the to Japan’s past. We had a look around and we wanted to share some of the city’s celebrated Michelin Guides” attractions, traditional craftwork, and local delicacies. As the locals say, oidensee (welcome)!

recruit his traveling companions by f course, when you first arrive in town, you should The castle can be easily reached by bus from the station. sharing his treats with them. You can begin by dropping in at the JR Okayama Station, But, to take your time and enjoy the ambience of Okayama find stalls selling these sweets around also known as the Momotaro tourist information City even more, we recommend taking the streetcar. You can Okayama castle and Korakuen garden, center, which is just inside the JR Station. During catch the streetcar in front of the station, and ride it along to but once you have eaten your fill of Ohis adventures, Momotaro traveled with a dog, a monkey, and Shiroshita Station. The castle is just a short walk away. them, you might be in the mood to a pheasant; but, whether you’re with friends or you like to Okayama Castle’s construction dates back to the late sit down and have something more travel alone, even the most independent-minded traveler can 16th century, when local daimyo Hideie Ukita went as far as a denim maker, centuries ahead of beginning of the year, when several substantial. We dropped in at Café get some useful advice at the center. You can find out more moving the earth in the construction of the building. Ukita your time? While Okayama Castle cranes are kept at the garden, and Antenna for one of their celebrated about the hidden gems of the city, including the shrines and changed the flow of the Asahigawa, the neighboring river, in is beautiful to see, there are plenty occasionally let free to walk (and fruit parfaits (ok, we’ll be honest: temples of the Kibiji District, and get the latest information order to prevent his enemies from attacking the rear of the of activities to make the experience occasionally fly!) around the garden. we ate two). This city is best known about its most celebrated attractions: Okayama Castle and castle. Also known as Ujo - or Crow Castle - because of the even more memorable. One option This is a particular favorite for for shiromomo - white peach – and Korakuen Garden. black-lacquered wood that covers the walls of the building, is to visit the castle, and get dressed photographers. But perhaps the best muscat grapes. When these fruits are After heading down the stairs from the east side of the Okayama Castle looks majestically over the city, providing up as a samurai-era lord or princess. time to come is during aki no izanai in season, the parfaits are even more station, you can look down the wide street - Momotaro-odori impressive views and a peaceful ambience. But Ukita was For those with a talent for crafts, you teien (from October 7–14, 2013), memorable. After a bite of one of the - which is lined with statues of the famous Peach Boy and his not only concerned with the military power of the castle: can try your hand at making Bizen when the garden is dramatically parfaits, we’re sure that you’ll say companions, and leads down towards the Culture Zone and he brought in artisans and merchants to develop a thriving ware, or Bizenyaki. Bizen ware is illuminated with lamps and candles, what we did: sugee! Café Antenna is the city’s most famous sights. Along the way, you can pass cultural center around the castle, and this artistic legacy well-known among pottery lovers and makes for a truly memorable located close to Okayama Castle, and by one of Okayama’s less traditional, but very impressive, continues on today in Okayama’s products, from blue jeans for its rough, unglazed minimalism. experience. The park is usually they are open from 11 am to 7 pm. products: blue jeans. Most people wouldn’t put the town of to pottery. Who knows: you might find that open from 8 am, and opening hours While you might not have to Peach Boy together with denim, but the city has a strong Climbing the castle stairs and inspecting the historical you have the knack for pottery! are extended until 8:30 pm for fight off any supernatural creatures history with the fabric, and Okayama denim has become exhibits inside the building, you can feel the spirit of the ages Bizenyaki workshops are available the festival. The illumination goes like Momotaro had to do, you can be well-known over the past decades. You can find the shops for past. You might even imagine that you were there during from 10 am until 4 pm. You can visit from sunset until 8:30 pm, and last sure that your memories of Okayama many famous blue jean brands as you head down Momotaro- the time of Hideie Ukita and other historical leaders. What the castle from 9 am to 5:30 pm, and admission to the garden is 5 pm. and its sights will be ones that you odori, and in other places around town. would you have been? A soldier? A advisor to a leader? Or last admission is 5 pm. After taking in the sights, you’re will treasure long after you have Next to Okayama Castle is probably ready to take a break returned home. Okayama Korakuen Garden, one and have a bite to eat. Momotaro’s of the most impressive gardens favorite snack was kibi , a For more information please visit: in Japan, and the recipient of a kind of sweet made from www.okayama-kanko.net/sightseeing/ three-star rating from the Michelin millet flour. In fact, he was able to index.php?lg=en Guides. The garden was constructed 1 along the Asahigawa River during the later part of the 17th century by the Ikeda clan, who became the rulers of the country after the Ukita family. The garden has been mostly unchanged in its appearance since the Edo period, and is imbued with a sense of generations past. The garden has many different sections, each one inspiring a different 2 feeling. There are wide lawns, tea 3 houses, curved stone bridges, and a miniature lake with a waterfall, and each area and its carefully chosen trees and plants have been chosen with exquisite care. Korakuen is a truly special place, and changes colors and feelings with the turning of the seasons. Cherry blossom season is particularly lovely, and 1 Café Antenna’s celebrated fruit parfaits 2 3 another exciting time to visit is at the Samuarai Cos-Play Enjoy the beautiful illuminations during aki no izanai teien.

www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 LANGUAGE | EDUCATION | 35

RISE OF THE POLYGLOTS

hen I listen to some of my British and from a range of different perspectives. American friends, it is sometimes all too I am sure that this is true, but for all the positives easy to imagine that they genuinely believe there are pitfalls too. For many dual-nationality families that foreign languages have been fiendishly the language question is a difficult one. Most of the advice devisedW for the sole purpose of poking fun at those of us who suggests that parents should each communicate with their can only speak English. I’m sure we’ve all met graduates of children in their own language if they hope for them to be the shout and wave your arms about School of Languages, bilingual but this isn’t easy, particularly if one parent has or those who seem proud to proclaim that they have lived in no real grasp of the other’s native tongue. It’s all too easy Japan for years and never got beyond biru o kudasai. These to take short-cuts. gaijin stereotypes certainly exist and probably always will, Then there’s the risk of wasted school-time. Research but the changing times are bringing changing attitudes and tells us that, although language acquisition comes quite the rise of the polyglot is well under way. naturally to younger children, they also tend to lose Take Sean, for example. He is just 10 years old. He began language very quickly if it is no longer used regularly. This his formal education in Morocco, moved to Brazil at the age is particularly true of the under-fives. How much time of six and has now been in Tokyo for just over a year. His should parents invest in helping their children to keep up mother is Polish and his father Irish – they met in Austria. with their skills when they move on; and to what extent When Sean started going to school in Morocco the language might time spent in this way have a detrimental effect of instruction was French, in Rio de Janeiro it was Portuguese on progress in other areas as a child tries to settle in at a and now, at the British School in Tokyo, his lessons are all in new school? It can be a battle too. A young teenager who English. Like all of his classmates, he studies Japanese and is already working hard to keep up with the demands of French but his mother is also determined that he should teachers is not likely to say thank you to the parent who master her native tongue because, among other things, it’s arranges extra language lessons after school. It seems to important that he can converse and build a relationship be an unwritten universal rule that these extra lessons with his Polish grandparents. As he grows up there’s every always clash with football practice! chance that Sean will become reasonably fluent in at least That said, I have never met an adult who has retained five languages. After all, his mum speaks six. a sense of resentment about being made to learn a International families with a global itinerant life-style language. In fact the opposite is true. Along with I wish are an increasingly common phenomenon. There are tens I’d never been allowed to give up piano lessons, the of thousands of third-culture kids, like Sean, in schools expression of regret I hear most often is I wish I’d kept all over the world and so many of them feel comfortable up my French (Spanish, Polish, Japanese…). The life of expressing themselves in a range of different languages. a polyglot has its complications, but the advantages far Surely this has to be a good thing? An understanding of outweigh them. language leads to an appreciation of community and culture. When young people can develop such an appreciation as a By Brian Christian, Principal of The British School in Tokyo natural element of their international upbringing they must, just as naturally, learn to stand in the shoes of others and to see the world SCHOOLS | EDUCATION | 37 encouraging STUDENTS to ChALLENGE ACCEPTED pursue their passions Head of School David Langill tells us what makes International Secondary School unique By Mary Rudow What types of students attend ISS? t. Mary’s International School is an all-boys’ Catholic sports teams excel, winning various tournament championships ISS is a grade 5–12 coeducational school. We have diverse and school that instills its students with a sense of global in the Kanto region as well as Okinawa and Hawaii. In the areas exceptional students who benefit from a small and customized awareness, offering a unique and fulfilling education of fine arts, the vocal music groups/choirs extend their cultural environment. Students with mild to moderate learning challenges, education to its diverse and international students. experience by performing in countries such as the US, Austria, who are operating at, or close to, grade level can be accommodated InS my recent visit to St Mary’s, I met with Brother Michel Jutras Hungary, Canada, Australia, and China, and participation in in our classrooms. Our ESL program helps students acclimate to an and Mr. Saburo Kagei, the former and present headmaster, organizations such as the American Choral Directors Association English language educational environment. Current ISS students respectively, to discuss the educational opportunities that the (ACDA). Speech, drama and debate teams are leaders in their represent more than 15 nationalities. school offers, leading to the continuing growth and success of field as well. What defines ISS and sets it apart from other their students. As a Catholic School, St. Mary’s instills the importance of International Schools in Kanto? Mr. Kagei believes that St. Mary’s sets itself apart by giving. “The focus at St Mary’s has always been on the heart and ISS fills a very important niche in the International School environment encouraging individual growth and development both in and how we nurture empathy in the boys.” Mr. Kagei explains. “Our in Kanto. We recognize that students learn differently, and at different outside of the classroom. students are involved in charity programs from elementary level rates. We also know that in sharing their talents, students make ISS a “Students are encouraged to achieve excellence. A child can right through to high school.” great place to be. We work with students and their families to identify live up to his full potential. It’s OK not to be a top-notch athlete if Whether it is fundraising for the “Save the Children” project, learning accommodations that are implemented in daily classroom you are interested in the fine arts.” which generates 1 million yen every year during the month of Why would parents choose International Secondary delivery to help students be successful. ‘‘Or if you want to you can excel in both,” Brother Michel December, or programs that raise donations for orphanages, School for their children? adds, “there is nothing stopping the boys from participating in nursing homes or other charitable organizations, the students and What’s NEXT FOR ISS? Parents trust us with their children because they know they will be the roughest sports and being involved in the fine arts at the staff are always looking to find new ways to help charities. Teachers We have recently relocated to a new location in Meguro-ku, which academically successful here. With only eight students maximum per same time. The captain of a wrestling team may also be the finest and parents are actively involved in these activities as well. will give us room to grow. We will expand our accreditation, which class, teachers can be attentive to individual students’ needs. As part of performer in the school musical.” With a strong educational program, diverse extracurricular presently comes from an educational institution in the US, to include our Teacher Advisory Program, parents can be assured that their children In Tokyo Weekender’s July issue, the article “Interning in activities, and multiple service opportunities, a compassionate accreditation from the Council of International Schools. will be well taken care of, both socially and emotionally. Our small, a Crisis” was published by a St. Mary’s student recounting his foundation is built at St. Mary’s, and our students are encouraged intimate school environment means our staff and students are connected time interning at the Japan Association for the UNHCR. He wrote to give, to share, and to pursue their passion. International Secondary School, 3-18-16 Megurohoncho, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 152-0002 in significant ways and everyone feels part of the ISS Family. about the important role the UN Refugee Agency plays in helping Founded by the Brothers of Christian Instruction in 1954, St. Tel: 03-6894-0055 | Fax: 03-6894-0056 | Web: www.isstokyo.com displaced people in crisis areas around the globe, and provided Mary’s offers an elementary to high school education, including staggering statistics on the rise of refugees in the Middle East the IB Diploma Program. with Syria. If you would like more information about how you can provide Impressed by the piece, I asked about the author during our your son/sons with a unique, international, and all-boys’ educational hour-long interview. I learned that he is a member of the school’s experience, contact St Mary’s International School today. student council, and principal Mrs. Ramsey describes him as hard working and motivated. Mackenzie Lee, the author of this For more information about St. Mary’s International article, is a high school senior at St Mary’s, and a fine example of School, please visit the official website: www.smis.ac.jp a hard-working student learning and developing at this school. Address: 1-6-19 Seta Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 158-8668 Japan St Mary’s offers a number of extracurricular activities. Their Tel: 81-3-3709-3411 | Fax: 81-3-3707-1950

Photo by Koh Terai www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 SCHOOLS | EDUCATION | 39 INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

As former student Yumina Nagahata THE BRITISH SCHOOL Level students here at the British School in Tokyo have celebrated first-class results and are QUEEN MARGARET’s SCHOOL explains, “The most valuable thing I now looking forward to taking up places at some of the world’s top universities. Remarkably, learned from QMS is a sense of creativity, A40% of all entries were graded A*/A and well over 60% were awarded a B grade or better. A LEADER IN GLOBAL EDUCATION independence and open-mindedness towards Given these results, it is no surprise that at least seven students appear to be heading for London other cultures.” “There are no tensions and degree courses at LSE, UCL and Imperial; other courses include Architecture at Glasgow, English The school welcomes between all the different nationalities, and Literature at Reading and Chemical Engineering at Manchester. Closer to home, BST will also be students from all over the atmosphere is so relaxed and friendly,” represented at Waseda and Doshisha this year. GCSE results were every bit as impressive. Almost the world into its rich adds another former student Rii Fuji. Rii 40% of all entries were awarded the top A* grade and 65% were graded A or better. To put these boarding experience, and began a nursing school program last year. results into context, national statistics for 2012 show that A*/A grades amounted to just over 22% of the intensive ESL Program After the four-year program, she plans to the total UK entry. These outstanding results represent a fitting reward for a talented, hard-working lets students improve their return to Canada and work there. Yumina group of pupils and for their dedicated teachers. Congratulations! English skills quickly and is currently doing internships in various art prepare for university in galleries around Tokyo and is planning to Address: 1-21-18 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0002 a rigorous and structured pursue graduate studies and a career in the Web: www.bst.ac.jp | Tel: 03 5467 4321 | Email: [email protected] academic environment. arts. “Being abroad made me want to learn QMS’ comprehensive even more about my own culture. I’m now scholastic and studying Art History and Japanese traditions extracurricular programs and customs at university,” says Yumina. adoka Soma remembers her years spent in Mexico and the US, attending international SOMOS INternatiOnal School provide opportunities Queen Margaret’s School’s Associate schools that exposed her to different cultures. She graduated from Tokyo University for achievement and Director of Admissions, Mr. Iqbal Parekh, of Foreign Studies and after a successful career at global corporations such as Nissan M world-class equestrian program, an personal growth through sports, visual and will be visiting Tokyo to meet prospective and Rakuten, she decided that she wanted to give back. intensive ESL program and a secure performing arts, information technology, students and their families November 19–23, In 2009, Soma founded the “Children’s International Festa” supported by Gaimusho, and in 2011, learning environment located in and riding. 2013. To book your appointment, connect she founded SOMOS International school with a mission to build confidence in children, teach Canada’s verdant British Columbia: QMS is home to Canada’s only fully with him at [email protected] them valuable life skills, and expose them to diverse cultures to become globally competitive welcomeA to Queen Margaret’s School. integrated equestrian and pre-veterinary leaders. SOMOS’s unique curriculum includes art, science, music, gastronomy, effective writing Nestled in the Cowichan Valley on equine sciences curriculum, providing and presentation skills. With the help of various Embassies, the children explore different Vancouver Island, the 27-acre campus is located training opportunities for recreational riders theme countries and share their learning at “Embassy Parties,” to which families and embassy within walking distance of shopping, sports to learn how to ride safely and for elite representatives are invited. centers and activities of the town of Duncan, BC, equestrian athletes to improve their skill and For more information on Queen Margaret’s along with proximity to skiing, lakes, rivers and compete in shows within Canada, the United School please visit the official website: Address: Shimomeguro 1-2-12, Shirokane Bldg 4F, Meguro-ku the Pacific Ocean. States and Mexico. www.qms.bc.ca Web: somos-inter.com | Blog: somosschool.wordpress.com | Tel: 03-6417-9071

ai INternational School I International School is a preschool and kindergarten where children learn to respect differences and develop borderless friendships, thanks to the international A atmosphere of its classrooms and activities. At ai International, English is used as the common language to communicate in a cross- cultural environment. Just like the children, ai’s educators come from around the world. As a reflection of the international nature of the School, our curriculum combines many theories and ideas from the educational systems of the home countries of our staff members. Parents will be glad to know that at ai International School, their children will be taught to love the learning process and they will be encouraged to become lifelong learners.

Address: 5-4-1-3f, Mita, Minato-ku, Tokyo, 108-0073 Web: www.aiinternationalschool.com | Email: [email protected] Tel: 03-3769-3372 | Fax: 086-422-0990

illowbrook International School is proud to announce its new Dual Immersion WILLOWBROOK SCHOOL Chinese/English program (since August 2013) for 2–4 year olds. Having been Wcommitted to quality education for over 15 years and having offered a Japanese/ English Dual Immersion (DI) program since 2002, we at Willowbrook are grateful for the support from our parents and community and are certain the new program will be a success. As a Reggio-Emilia inspired school (with a DI program that has a broader focus on language), we use a hands-on approach to educating young minds. Ours is a learning community where parents, teachers, and staff collectively contribute to our children’s education. The goal of the DI program at Willowbrook is to stimulate and challenge each child to thrive socially, emotionally and academically.

Address: 2-14-28 Moto Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo, 106-0046 Web: www.willowbrookschool.com | Email: [email protected] Tel: 03-3449-9030 | Fax: 03-3449-9064

OCTOBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 Bill, Aerosmith’s Steve Tyler, New Lex Tokyo’s mgr. Taka Masuda, Real Estate Tycoon Shin Kawamoto and TV comedian TKO Kinoshita PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 41

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PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES 7 8 9 Tokyo’s Longest Running Society Page, with Bill Hersey

t’s September, and as always, I find it difficult to realize how fast Okura’s Garden Fair – Simply Magnificent time really does fly. September meant back to school for most of The 13th annual world gardening fair at Hotel Okura this year was, as the young people I know, and I’m happy to see that, so much more always, a beautiful and special event. The Ambassadors’ wives from than before, many young Japanese are able to go to good schools all ten different countries—Venezuela, the USA, Spain, Belgium, Sweden, overI the world. This will certainly lead to a better, more understanding Azerbaijan, Singapore, Turkey, the Netherlands and the UK—spent a lot world for people everywhere. of time in planning and working with Japanese landscape artist Nobuo August and September stayed busy here in old Edo. The highlights Shirasuna. The gardens reflected the creativity and culture of each of for me were the many cultural events in Yoyogi Park. First there was the participants. 10 11 12 the dynamic B-Boy festival, where thousands of rappers, Hip Hop DJs H.I.H. Princess Takamado, super chic, as always, was patron of the fair. and break dance groups came from all over Japan for a lively and very In addition to the 10 magnificent gardens, exhibition highlights included exciting two-day competition to choose the best in each category. It was “English Roses in Full Bloom” and “The Rare Blue Flowers of the World.” really amazing to see and hear. Kudos to all concerned. Watch for the 14th fair during Golden Week 2014. A week later, my favorite festival, the all-Japan folk dance group parade took place in Omotesando, going past NHK hall in Yoyogi Koen. Things missed This was a competition as well, with 98 groups performing on the park’s Sorry I had to miss the glittering reception celebrating the accession of arena stage. Some of the groups had as many as 50 members, and Croatia to the European Union and the start of the Lithuanian Presidency participants ranged in age from 6 to 86! The timing, the choreography, of the Council of the European Union. This was hosted by EU Ambassador the colorful original costumes, the huge banners, and the overall happy Hans Dietmar Schweisgut, Croatian Ambassador Mrs. Mira Martinec, and mood of the event—a beautiful blend of traditional and very up-to-date Lithuanian Ambassador Egidijus Meilunas at the beautiful House Japanese song and dance—is an unbelievable show and experience. in Minato-ku. 13 14 15 Watch for it late summer, 2014. As I mentioned in an earlier column, I really suffered from a bad We’re already into a busy September with events like the visit of case of food poisoning this summer, and had to miss Luxembourg Colombia’s beautiful Naval officers’ training ship Gloria, Dewi Sukarno’s Ambassador and Mrs. Paul Steinmetz’s National Day celebration, as America The Beautiful Okura Hotel’s 13th Garden Fair always successful annual Grand Imperial Dinner Show, the two-day Sri well as Peruvian Ambassador and Señora Elard Escala’s National Day 1. Guinean Ambassador Senkoun Sylla, Burkina Faso Ambassador François 9. Landscape artist Shiratsuno Sensei, Singapore Ambassador Chin Siat Yoon, his Oubida, Djibouti Ambassador Ahmed Araita Ali 2. EU Ambassador, Hans wife Wang Lee Moi, H.I.H. Princess Takamado 10. Erika Ishikawa (Venezuela) and Lankan festival in Yoyogi, a Vietnam Airlines evening of Vietnamese reception and food festival. Dietmar Schweisqut, and his wife Kaoru 3. German Ambassador, Volker Sara Hitchens (United Kingdom) 11. Jewelry designer (Sultan Collection) Mehtap song and dance, several National Holidays, and all kinds of cultural Stanzel, and his wife Mei Fang 4. Fumiko Tottori, mother of Princess Sultan, Gumusay and her husband, Mr. Fukunishi 12. Spanish 2nd Sec. Cristiane events as well. Tokyo really never slows down. The Rooses’ Big US Independence Day Celebration Takamado, with US Ambassador John B. Roos and Susan Roos 5. Rakuten Castilho, Princess Takamado, her mother Fumiko 13. Belgian Ambassador Luc A big congratulation to the many who worked so hard in getting I did manage to get up and out for U.S. Ambassador John Roos and his wife website founder/owner, Hiroshi Mikitani 6. Sadako Ogata, former head of UN Liebaut, his wife Karine 14. Swedish Ambassador Lars Varqo, his wife Eva The the 2020 Olympic games in Japan. I know many of the people involved, Susan’s very big and very exciting American Independence Day blast. The Refugees and JICA 7. Lance Lee, former president of the American Club, and Princess 15. The Okura’s Rajesh Paul noted Pianist Reiko Awazu (Right), her sister and I’m sure they’ll clean up the corruption that’s hurt big international residence and garden were packed with interesting people, the Embassy his wife, Dr. Keiko Lee 8. Former Japanese Ambassador to the US, Takakazu Takako (Left). events like this in the past. With that in mind, let’s move onto our city’s was beautifully decorated, there was a huge variety of mostly American Kuriyama, and his wife Mimi. social scene. and Japanese food, a lively program of song and dance, and it all really

OCTOBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 42 | SOCIETY | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 43

was—as the title of the evening said—“America the Beautiful.” The only celebrated choreographer, show producer, music coordinator, kimono downer was knowing that, after four years in Japan, John and Susan stylist and fashion coordinator. One of his favorite countries outside of would be leaving Japan soon. As the US’s top representatives here, the India was Japan, which he visited more than 150 times. He also created super-popular couple did so much to strengthen the friendship between unique and beautiful jewelry collections inspired by America, Hong Kong, the people of Japan and the US, and made so many friends. Boy, will they South Africa, and Egypt. He as also the man behind several annual gala be missed by everyone who had the privilege of knowing them. I would shows for H.I.H Princess Takamado and her much-loved cause—bird life. like to personally thank them for so many things they did for me during The fashion musical extravaganzas he produced with so many their four years here. Thanks John; thanks Susan. I sincerely hope you Japanese showbiz personalities were always very popular and very 1 2 3 continue with your life with a wonderful family, endless friends, and so professional. Kazuo was really talented and gifted, and he made the much effort in worthy causes and helping others. The Rooses are really shows some of the most popular on our city’s busy social scene. very special people. It has been two years since we lost Kazuo and for Buddhists, this is Sankaiki, when the soul begins its travels to its intended destination. It Busy People was a special evening in every way. It was perfect for the “multi-talented I am always happy to see good things happen to good people. In the world maestro” and “always smiling 60s.” of baseball, William Ireton, son of Bill and Charo, was signed by the Texas Norman Tolman has done it again! Not wishing to be known as a one- Rangers earlier this year. He was recently assigned to their Single-A league note art dealer because of his great identification with Toko Shinoda and minor league team, the Spokane Indians in Spokane, Washington. all the exhibits he has planned for her celebrating her 100th birthday, William played ball in high school (Mid-Pacific Institute in Honolulu) he has pulled a great move by opening a fantastic jewel box of a small and college, graduating summa cum laude from Menlo College with a gallery selling his long-forgotten imari collection which he “wrapped and degree in international business. William is really a super nice young put aside” and forgot to look at for 30 years! He says he opened it with 4 5 6 man. At the time of writing, his parents are on a flight back from Italy, great care and to his delight, from the 10 large boxes not a single piece where they accompanied superstar Ken Watanabe and other members of turned up broken. The new place is just at the end of the tunnel that runs the cast of the Warner Brothers remake of Clint Eastwood’s classic western under Mt. Atago, where the famous Atago Shrine is. If you are looking “Unforgiven” (titled “Yurusarezarumono”) for a special screening at the for a trophy piece as a wedding present or some other special occasion, Venice Film Festival. From all reports, the film was one of the highlights of go and have look. I don’t think you will find little dishes for the kiddies, the festival. though. Tetsuro Okagawa is the guy who runs the place, you’ll love him. Warner Brothers will also release the baseball film “42” here in Tokyo Just like all the guys who work for the Tolman Collection, he is as nice as on November 1st. This is a real-life drama about Jackie Robinson, the first can be. African American to play major league baseball. Believe me, it’s a real Hopefully you won’t need it, but thanks to a young doctor friend of winner. Still on films, Ken Watanabe’s next film will be “Godzilla.” More mine I located what seems to be the only (almost) all-night pharmacy on this later. in Tokyo. Actually, they close for four hours during the early morning A big congratulations to a good friend: great guy Brian Mori and his everyday. For more info, it’s Jounan Pharmacy near the Azabu-juban 7 8 9 wife Cheryl (she’s American) on the birth of their son George Natsuo Metro Station. Tel: 03-3451-8400 or 03-3456-3727. (August 22). Brian is President of the Segafredo Espresso Café chain We all like bargains, and if you’re like me, I’m sure you visit one of throughout Japan, and franchise director for Asia. the many 100 yen shops from time to time. Last week a friend of mine introduced me to Seria, one of the best I’ve seen. It’s conveniently located Infinity Memorial for Kazuo Ogawa in the Marui Department store JAM building on the 7th floor, a short On May 1st, 2011, so many of us lost a wonderful friend, world renowned walk from Shibuya station—on the same street as Tower Records. Seeing jewelry designer Kazuo Ogawa. Kazuo’s long-time friend and business is believing, and you really need to see Seria. The variety of 100-yen partner, (Infinity’s) Atul Parekh, and Kazuo’s family hosted. There was merchandise is really tastefully displayed—and frankly, quite awesome. a beautiful memorial party for Kazuo at the Paul Bocuse Restaurant in Check it out and I’m sure you’ll agree. Aobadai. A few columns ago, I listed a few shops (Goro’s American Indian It was as we knew it would be: a fashionable, colorful gathering of jewelry, Eggs N’ Things pancake restaurant, and Garrett Popcorn, where interesting people from all walks of life. you almost always have to wait in line to get in). I recently discovered 10 11 12 The program started with a very emotional and meaningful what has to be the best cheesecake in Tokyo at Pablo’s Bake Shop in speech by Atul in front of a large portrait of the always smiling Shibuya, and you’ll probably have to stand in line there too, Kazuo. There were lots of tears during his truly great and while the store’s bakers make sure you get a just-baked much-deserved tribute. choice of a half-dozen different premium cheese tarts. Prices Kazuo was not only an innovative and creative jewelry are reasonable. Pablo’s is right behind the huge Forever21 designer, he was a talented hair stylist and beautician, a fashion store near H&M and ABC Mart.

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Infinity Memorial for noted Jewelry Designer Kazuo Ogawa In and Around 1. It was an emotional evening for Atul Parekh at his partner/long time friend Kazuo 9. Model actor K-west, Kyoko and Mika – The Kano Sisters – “Man of Steel” premiere Ogawa’s memorial evening 2. Atul, his wife Hema, their son Alok 3. Noted fashion 10. One of the hundreds of B-boys compete in the break dancing contest – Yoyogi Koen designer Yumi Katsura, Bicky Comberbach (Zimbabwe), Lilo Maruyama 4. Infinity’s 11. Metro Police publicity booth at Yoyogi’s Brazil Festival 12. One of the 98 dance groups at Takamisa Mori, Kazuo’s children, Hideaki, Yuko and Tomoaki 5. Farida Rahman, Emiko the Yoyogi Japan Dance Festival 13. “The Dreamgirls”, “American Idiot” and ”Drumstruck” Kothara, Sakina Rahman 6. Paul and Kamal Warraich (Moti’s Restaurant) cast’s party at the New Lex Tokyo 14. Director J.J. Abrams here to promote “Star Trek into 7. Dancer Yoshie Ishii, dance master Bando Umeyuki, Kazuo’s wife Kimiko Ogawa Darkness” for Paramount 15. Actress Rinko Kikuchi at Warner Bros. “Pacific Rim” Press 8. Models, Steven Haynes and Akina Miyano Conference.

Pawn Stars – Rick Harrison and his son “Big Hoss,” History Channel – Asia Lorenzo Scrimizz, his daughter Giulia at Hiro Segafredo Ireton, Ryo Hara, Nike Tsukamoto, and Nobuyo Hisatake at Nobu’s with Segafredo staff Kenichi

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OCTOBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 SHOWING THIS MONTH | SCREEN | 47 MOVIES OCT 18 Coming to a cinema near you in OCTOBER

OCT 5 Heavens Gate fter winning five Academy Awards in 1978 with his Vietnam War classic A The Deer Hunter Michael Cimino chose to make a big budget Western as his second feature. Heaven’s Gate is set in Wyoming during the 1890s, and tells the story of a group of European immigrants whose lives are put on the line when a group of wealthy cattle barons draw up a “kill The Stone Roses: Made of Stone list” to get rid of the troublesome settlers. eminal British band The Stone Roses reformed last year after Kris Kristofferson stars as James Averill, breaking up back in 1996 amidst animosity and infighting. marshal of Johnson County, who attempts S After the comeback that no one thought possible, the band to protect the poor immigrants, including managed a triumphant return which included a set headlining his lover, Isabelle Huppert’s bordello- Japan’s own Fuji Rock Festival last summer. The quintessential running madam, Ella. Christopher Walken, Manchester band that came to inspire just about every young who was unforgettable in The Deer Hunter, British indie band that followed them also found a fan in a young returns here as a gun-toting enforcer man with aspirations of filmmaking, Shane Meadows. Meadows, the and rival for Ella’s love. Released in 1980, acclaimed director of This is England and Dead Man’s Shoes, is one Heaven’s Gate notoriously sank at the box of the brightest stars in British cinema today. The Stone Roses: Made office, becoming one of the most expensive of Stone is the director’s first feature length documentary and it failures of all time, mostly as a result of charts the band’s revival through early jam sessions, a dramatic tour bad press from film critics. The movie has in Europe—when the whole thing looked set to fall apart again—to since been reappraised and stands as a a triumphant return at London’s Heaton Park. The documentary testament to great 70s American cinema. doesn’t attempt a cheap celebrity exposé of the band, but it offers a This new digitally remastered director’s fan’s view of his heroes making good. cut is beautiful to behold and worthy of its nearly four-hour running time. OCT 5

OCT 25 R.I.P.D OCT 5 .I.P.D. is a supernatural comedy with more than touch of Men in Black about it. RYoung cop Ryan Reynolds, unfortunately meets an untimely end in the line of duty but on his way to the afterlife he’s pulled into the office of Mildred Proctor, commanding officer of the R.I.P.D., or Rest in Peace Department as it’s otherwise known. R.I.P.D. is assigned to patrol the afterlife, preventing the return of spirits who Now You See Me have failed to cross over and return to earth Red Dawn to cause trouble. In charge of the new recruit ith its star-studded cast and f you’re in the mood for something R100 is old-timer Jeff Bridges, a pistol-toting former flashy Las Vegas setting, Now that’s not too taxing on the grey matter, itoshi Matsumoto has been hugely popular in Japan for the US Marshal. As the two learn to get along, You See Me comes across more check out implausible action effort Red past couple of decades as one half of the hugely successful W they uncover a plot that could see the earth I than a little bit like that other Vegas team- Dawn. Based on a 1984 film of the same comedy duo “Downtown.” In recent years Matsumoto has overtaken by murderous spirits. Mary Elisabeth H up comedy, Ocean’s Eleven. In this tricky name in which Patrick Swayze leads a been carving out a name for himself as a director beginning with Parker plays Proctor and Kevin Bacon appears crime caper Jesse Eisenberg leads Woody group of his high school friends in guerrilla his debut Big Man Japan, a mockumentary that follows a down-on- as Reynold’s corrupt former partner. Let’s hope Harrelson, Isla Fisher and Dave Franco warfare against Soviet and Cuban soldiers his-luck government worker who grows to enormous size in order it’s closer to Men in Black than Wild Wild West. as a group of illusionists known as “The who have invaded small town America. The to battle a variety of strange monsters, it’s darkly comic and well Four Horsemen” who pull off incredible OCT 18 cold war premise has now been updated, worth worth a look. R100 will be the comedian/director’s fourth bank robberies as a part of their live with the threat to American soil changing feature film and follows in a similar vein to his previous work. The performances and then distribute the from the communists of the Soviet Union title refers to the Japanese film classification system, which caps at money amongst the audience. The group to those of North Korea. This was actually R18 (“for ages 18 and above”). This should give you a clue about the attracts the attention of FBI agent Mark changed from China in post-production as movie’s theme. Nao Ohmori stars as Kuruyama, a typically mild- Ruffalo and an interpol agent played by Hollywood continues to court the Chinese mannered family man who joins a mysterious S&M club with a very Inglorious Basterds’ Mélanie Laurent. dollar. The film stars the Avengers’ own important rule: the contract lasts a year and cannot be broken. Screen legends Michael Caine and Morgan Thunder God, Chris Hemsworth, who will Kuruyama finds the club’s dominatrices invading his daily life and Freeman are in on the action in this slick be returning to that role in sequel Thor: The what was at first enjoyable could end up going too far. This month’s movie previews were written by production. Dark World, to be released later this year. Christopher O’Keeffe. For more movie news and reviews visit www.tokyoweekender.com

OCTOBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 OCTOBER | AGENDA | 49 AGENDA OCTOBER 1 9

2 3 10 Blooming

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1 OCT 21-22 2 OCt 21-25 3 NOV 2-3 4 OCT 19-20 9 OCT 17-25 10 OCT 11-18 The Flaming Lips Ashanti Design Festa vol. 38 Loud Park 2013 Tokyo International Indian Film Festival Japan Chocolate Thunder From Although confetti, costumes Chart-topping R&B princess The uncensored, The ear-splitting affair Film Festival Seeking a common platform for and man-sized plastic Ashanti will bring her all-inclusive, two-day brings back Stone Temple This 26th edition will the cinemas of India and Japan, Down Under® bubbles may be a thing of the past, you crystal clear voice and soulful hits to extravaganza of art, fashion, music, Pilots with lead vocalist Chester showcase films that haven’t been special guests for this festival include An extra generous pecan brownie is can expect mind-blowing visual from this side of the world. energy and movement is back. Bennington, along with Europe, released in Japan, as well as a new actor Vinay Pathak and director topped with rich vanilla ice cream, Wayne Coyne and his troupe. Where: Billboard Live Tokyo, Minato-ku Where: Tokyo Big Sight, Odaiba Carcass and Crossfaith. category of up-and-coming Asian Kamal. drizzled with our warm chocolate Where: Akasaka Blitz, Minato-ku How much: ¥8,500 - ¥10,500 How Much: ¥1,000 (one day), ¥1,800 Where: Saitama Super Arena, Saitama directors. Where: Auditorium Shibuya sauce and finished with chocolate How Much: ¥7,500 | Time: from 19:00 More info: www.billboard-live.com (weekend)/ (¥800/¥1500 adv.) How Much: ¥14,500 (1 day)/¥26,000 (2 days) Where: Toho Cinemas Roppongi Hills, How much: ¥1500 - ¥3000 shavings and whipped cream. More info: www.creativeman.co.jp More info: www.designfesta.com/en/ More info: www.loudpark.com/13 How Much: ¥1,000-2,500 per film More info: www. indianfilmfestivaljapan.com/en/ More information: www.tiff.yahoo.co.jp

5 OCT 26 6 OCT 12-13 7 OCT 11 8 OCt 10 11 OCT 11 12 OCT 19 Whistlebump Asagiri Jam 2013 Backstreet Boys Suede Madeon Japan Tour KISS Monster World Tour Halloween Adventure Fuji Rock’s more laid-back, Although they scream Join hundreds of fellow Catch young French house/ Still alive and kicking, glam Prepare yourself for lower-key cousin is back nineties boy-band fandom, Tokyoites for a night run pop producer prodigy Hugo rock troupe will most likely what is promised to be a night of with headliners The Strypes, Asian the boys are back almost two amidst the skyscrapers of Shinjuku, Pierre Leclerc behind the turntables. be causing onstage mayhem with decadence, complete with live shows, Dub Foundation, Beth Orton and The decades later, looking more grown- for one night only. Where: Sound Museum Vision, Shibuya their face paint, elaborate costumes, DJs and pole dancers. Trojans amongst others. up and dapper than ever. Time: from 20:00 How Much: ¥4,000 | Time: 19:00 and other stage antics. Where: XEX Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku How Where: Asagiri Arena, Fujinomiya Where: Saitama Super Arena, Saitama Where: Shibuya AX, Shibuya-ku More info: www.creativeman.co.jp Where: Makuhari Messe, Chiba Much: ¥3,000-¥4,500(door) How Much: ¥13,800 (2-day pass, inc. camping) How much: ¥9,500/¥20,000 (VIP) How Much: ¥7,350 (adv.) How Much: ¥9,000- ¥12,500 More info: www.tokyoweekender.com More info: www.smash-jpn.com/asagiri More info: www.creativeman.co.jp More info: www.creativeman.co.jp More info: www.udo.co.jp

OCTOBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com OCTOBER 2013 BACK IN THE DAY: OCTOBER 1988 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1988! You can read the rest of this issue (No.40 1988) and view Weekender’s 42 year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives/ BTC_AD_210_297_0924.indd 1 25/09/2013 10:28