or weeklongvisits. suggested tripitinerariesforoneday, three day in thepark.Includesrecommendations and Find outhowtomakethemostofyourtime 8 What to &Do See

From: Insider’s Inspiration The Paisano Big Bend National Park PO Box 129 Big Bend National Park, TX 79834 To:

EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA™ ...... average timerequired, diffi culty, andlocation. and moderatehikingtrails.Includestraillength, Find descriptionsofmanythepopulareasy 9 Day Hikes couldn’t wait to come back. In fact, many people who have beenhere before, and nearly two thirds Big visitors Bend’s of are roughly ten percent their of visitors return, for decades. While most parks note that Big experiences Bend have inspired visitors States. the last remaining wild corners the of United changing river. Here you canexplore one of expanses, forested mountains, and anever- includesBend massive canyons, vast desert 8,000 feet inthe ChisosMountains, Big 2,000 feet along the Rio Grande to nearly enjoyment. From anelevation lessthan of 800,000 acres await your exploration and Rio Grande Wild and River! Scenic Over Welcome to Big National Bend Park and the this extreme environment. arduous exercise). You needbothtosurvivein water (overaquartandhalfper hourduring meals. Asyouexercise, youlosesaltand person perday. Eat saltysnacksandregular Carry anddrinkwater—atleast1 gallonper Got Water? GotSalt? http://www.nps.gov/rigr/ Rio GrandeWild&ScenicRiver: http://www.nps.gov/bibe/ Big BendNationalPark: and more. river levels,research, parknews,tripplanning, your bestsources ofinformation forweather, the offi cialNationalPark websites.Theseare fantastic resources oftheBigBendbyvisiting morePlan yournexttrip,orlearn aboutthe Big BendontheInternet nickname forthegreater roadrunner. throughout theAmericanSouthwestasa countryman orpeasantthatisused Paisano isaSpanishword meaning What isaPaisano?

...... services inandoutsidethepark. andphonenumbersfor and RioGrandeVillage help. FinddetailedmapsoftheChisosBasin Don’t knowwhere youare? Theparkmapcan 16 Park Maps Park. to, return to, and stay inBig National Bend draws usasvisitors and park rangers to come special spark, that bit inspiration, of which This issue isdedicated to identifying that animal, or bit history. of provides anopportunity to seeanew plant, Diversity draws inothers, asevery trip and mountain vistas inspire them to return. solitude. For others, spectacular scenery brings people back? For some, it’s peaceand Big isn’taneasy Bend park to get to, sowhat vacation. an anniversary, holiday, or simply enjoy a families return year after year to celebrate Night Skies...... Birds &Birdwatching ...... Nature &Culture ...... In theNews...... Features What toSeeandDo...... What CanKidsDoHere ...... Weather &Climate...... Safety ...... Pets inthePark...... Park Partners...... Park Maps...... Leave NoTrace ...... Wild Keeping Wildlife Important PhoneNumbers...... General Information&Services...... Entrance Fees...... Day Hikes...... Border Information...... Backcountry Planning...... What’s Inside 4–7 10 13 15 15 13 16 13 11 16 12 14 7 4 8 3 2 9 2

...... Superintendent William E.Wellman Superintendent William Fall/Winter 2011/2012 Volume OffiNewspaper cial Rio GrandeWild&ScenicRiver Big reality. look forward to seeing this dream become a enjoyed inthe past, and wish to have again. I cross-cultural experiences our visitors course,And, of it will return the unique and canhelp make Big asafer Bend place. an incredibly positive step along the border, income for our neighbors across the river is relationships, and providing alegal source of conservation, reestablishing positive StrengtheningBoquillas. international is opening aninternational crossing at persuaded me to postpone my retirement, theseOne of opportunities, which has opportunities for the future. diversity, stunning scenery, and limitless retirement the because of park’s remarkable I was inspired to serve at Big before Bend Colorado, and Organ Pipein Arizona, but national parks, such asBlack Canyon in I have spectacular served inanumber of desire to serve, and for me that was Big Bend. career inapark where they have astrong Many superintendents align the their end of Or contactaParkRanger 24-hours aday Or 432-477-2251 Call 911 Emergencies Superintendent’s Message Bend NationalPark 31, number 2 31, number2

National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Big Bend and the Border Big Bend National Park Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River

The Big Bend Paisano is published by the National Park Service for the orientation and education of visitors to Big Bend National Park and the Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River.

National Park Service Superintendent, William E. Wellman Chief Naturalist, David Elkowitz View of Boquillas, Mexico Park Ranger/Editor, Cookie Ballou

The National Park Service was established In addition to defining the curve that forms the Big Bend, the Rio Grande also serves as the international boundary between the United States on August 25, 1916. . . “to conserve and Mexico. Throughout much of its history, the border along the Rio Grande has been fluid, allowing people of both countries to come the scenery and the natural and historic and go as needed. However, the border is an artificial boundary imposed on the natural environment, and as such is subject to political and objects and the wildlife. . . and to provide social pressures that continue to evolve. Increased border restrictions have led to a number of important changes that affect the international for the enjoyment of the same in such boundary in Big Bend. manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.” Authorized by congress in 1935, and established in June Crossings Remain Closed location of the individuals to the visitor that crush plants along the river and cause 1944, Big Bend National Park preserves center or other park staff or the Border erosion of riverbanks, and an increase in As a result of a 2002 U.S. Customs and the most representative example of the Patrol as soon as possible. Lack of water is garbage and contaminants along the Rio Chihuahuan Desert ecosystem in the Border Protection decision, there are still no a life-threatening emergency in the desert. Grande watershed. Supporting this illegal United States. As conservation educators, authorized crossings in Big Bend National • Report any suspicious behavior to park activity contributes to the continued damage the park’s Division of Interpretation and Park. Crossing at Boquillas, Santa Elena, staff or the Border Patrol. Please do not of the natural resources along the Rio Visitor Services provides guided walks, or other locations along the Rio Grande is contact suspicious persons. Grande, and jeopardizes the possibility of talks, evening slide programs, workshops, prohibited. The closest legal ports of entry • Ask at the visitor center or contact a ranger reopening the crossings in the future. and other educational activities as well as are Del Rio and Presidio, Texas. A legal port or a Border patrol agent about any areas written materials such as this newspaper. of entry may be established in the park in the where you may have concerns about Sotol walking sticks and other handcrafted near future. Meanwhile, the U.S. Attorney’s traveling. items made in Boquillas, Mexico can only be Office will prosecute any criminal violations Big Bend Natural History purchased legally at sales outlets inside and regarding illegal crossings. If you re-enter the Association outside of the park. United States at any point within Big Bend Executive Director, Mike Border Merchants National Park, you may be liable for a fine of Boren Mexican Nationals may approach you from not more than $5,000 or imprisonment for across the river to sell souvenir items such as up to one year, or both. The Big Bend Natural History Association, walking sticks, bracelets, and crafts. If you established in 1956 as a private, non- agree to look at/purchase their items and profit organization, champions the Border Safety the Mexicans cross the river, they may be mission of the National Park Service in A few simple steps can help keep the park arrested for being in the U.S. illegally. They facilitating popular interpretation of safe for everyone here. Please keep the will be held until deported back to Mexico the scenic, scientific, and historic values following in mind: of Big Bend and encourages research through Presidio (100 miles away). Mexican related to those values. The Association merchants will be arrested for illegal conducts seminars and publishes, prints, • Know where you are at all times, follow commercial operations which may result in or otherwise provides books, maps, and good safety procedures, and use common a fine and/or additional incarceration while interpretive materials on the Big Bend sense when making decisions. awaiting adjudication prior to deportation. region. Proceeds fund exhibits, films, • Cell phone service is frequently out of interpretive programs, seminars, museum range in many areas of the park. Items purchased will be considered activities, and research. • Keep valuables, including spare change, contraband and seized by officers when out of sight and lock your vehicle. encountered. Rocks, minerals, and Photograph Credits • Avoid travel on well-used but unofficial archeological items cannot be purchased, When possible, the Paisano uses “trails”. imported, or possessed in a national park. photographs of the park taken by • Do not pick up hitchhikers. visitors. These photographs bear the • People in distress may ask for food, water photographer’s name; all uncredited In addition, illegal trade impacts the Mexican crafts or other assistance. It is recommended that images are NPS photographs. resources of the park in a number of negative you not make contact. Instead, report the ways, including the creation of social trails On matters relating to this publication: National Park Service Editor, The Big Bend Paisano PO Box 129 Big Bend National Park, TX 79834 [email protected] Fees: Your Dollars at Work Entrance Fees Park Mailing Address Why Do Parks Charge A Fee? How Is Your Money Used? Big Bend National Park Much of the funding for Big Bend and Your entrance and campground fees help Single Private Non-commercial PO Box 129 other national parks comes from American Big Bend National Park complete important Vehicle Big Bend National Park, TX 79834 taxpayers. However, protecting this land projects that directly benefit you and other $20—valid for 7 days and ensuring that you have a safe, enjoyable park visitors. Phone Single person entry on foot, bicycle, and educational experience costs more than 432-477-2251 motorcycle, commercial vehicle, etc. this tax base provides. Therefore, the U.S. Recent Projects: $10 per person—valid for 7 days Congress determined that people who use • Rio Grande Village Nature Trail—addition Official Park Websites www.nps.gov/bibe/ federal lands should pay fees to help offset of boardwalk and viewing platform Big Bend Annual Pass www.nps.gov/rigr/ the difference. • Rehabilitation of Maverick Entrance $40—valid for one year from month of pur- Station chase The National Park Service cares for the Where Does Your Money Go? special places saved by the American Twenty percent of the money collected Current Projects: Interagency Annual Pass $80—valid for one year from month of pur- people so that all may experience our from entrance and campground fees is • Santa Elena River Access chase heritage. redistributed to units of the national park • Boquillas Crossing Facility system that do not charge fees to assist in All other valid passes will be accepted until their upkeep and to upgrade those areas. expired including: Golden Age Passport, Eighty percent of the money collected here and Golden Access Passport. EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA™ stays in Big Bend National Park.

2 The Big Bend Paisano Park Partners

International Park Commission - Early 1930s Big Bend Natural History Association Friends of Big Bend Volunteers in the Park The Big Bend Natural History Association Founded in 1996, the Friends of Big Bend Volunteers are a valuable part of our (BBNHA) was established in 1956 as a National Park is a private, non-profit operation and our community. Last year over private, non-profit organization. The organization with a mission to support, 240 volunteers contributed approximately Association’s goal is to educate the public promote, and raise funds for Big Bend 46,400 hours of service. and increase their understanding and National Park in partnership with the appreciation of the Big Bend area and National Park Service and other supporters what it represents in terms of our historical who value the unique qualities of this and natural heritage. BBNHA champions national resource on the Rio Grande. The the mission of the National Park Service Friends of Big Bend National Park has in interpreting the scenic, scientific, and funded a range of critical projects, including historic values of Big Bend, and encourages wildlife research programs, the purchase of research related to those values. The equipment to monitor air and water quality, Association conducts seminars, and and the construction and renovation of the publishes, prints, or otherwise provides park infrastructure. books, maps, and interpretive materials on Honor Roll the Big Bend region. Proceeds fund exhibits, The Friends of Big Bend National Park host films, interpretive programs, seminars, a yearly membership event and in-park Join us in thanking the following individuals museum activities, and research. tour, which is an excellent opportunity who have recently donated 100 hours or to get to know the board of directors more in volunteer service to Big Bend: For those who prefer to shop in person, or governing the organization, and become during your visit, BBNHA operates sales Jim Bishop more involved with the group. Also, several Angie Dean outlets at Amistad National Recreation Area fund-raising events occur in the major Texas Steve Harper in Del Rio, Texas, and in Big Bend National Cynta deNarvaez cities throughout the year and are another Park visitor centers in the Chisos Basin, at Steve Wick www.bigbendbookstore.org opportunity to get involved and help with the Reine Wonite Panther Junction, Persimmon Gap, Castolon, mission of the Friends Group. The group’s Georganne Bradbury and Rio Grande Village. website is a great place to look for upcoming Jon Gosch Elaine & John Jonker events and current happenings. Rachel Kilian When preparing for a future visit, or Sarah King remembering a previous trip, BBNHA offers Bob Wirt both phone and internet sales. Phone orders Beth Bishop can be placed during business hours seven Bud Frankenberger Don & Carol O’Brien days a week by calling 432-477-2236. Please John Pfistner browse through our online store at Rick Bradbury http://www.bigbendbookstore.org/ John Rech Hennessy, Bob & Ruthine You can enjoy safe, secure shopping in Jim & Jan Allen the comfort of your home. We offer many Ed Davis categories, authors, subjects, and titles. Doug & Kay Combs Austin Danicic Joan & Ray Kane Ongoing BBNHA projects include: Tom & Kendall Ermann • Publishing trail guides and brochures PO Box 200 Bob Douat Steve & Toka Smith • Providing annual grants for research Big Bend National Park, Texas 79834 Steve & Tina Ehrman projects, and administering grants and 432-477-2242 Chris Dunn gifts received for the park Royann & Royce Brockett • Supporting the park’s volunteer, Junior www.bigbendfriends.org John & Linda Lightbourn Marshall & Pat McCall Ranger, and educational outreach Gary & Diane Frable programs New item available from BBNHA Robert & Glenda Overfelt Terry Brackeen Get In On the $30-Per-Plate Fund-raiser Jim Scanlon Big Bend custom license plates are available Joe Cain for your car, truck or motorcycle from the state Dana Crites Join us and support your park! of Texas and most of the procceeds go toward Jennifer Goucher Become a member and create a lasting relationship with Big Bend National Park. preservation and protection of Big Bend National Elton & Esther Homan Mark Schuler Park—one of the world’s last, great wildernesses. Do more with your dues! Bill & Patti Marvin It may be the most fulfilling contribution you’ll Barney Ghim & Paula Jampsa Purchase a dual annual membership in both BBNHA and the Friends of Big Bend National Park ever make. Jim & Mary Lynn Murrell for only $100. Jerry Turner Linda Richardson Member Benefits Phillip & Margaret Hodgens Membership benefits include a 15% discount in BBNHA bookstores; a 10% discount on most Danny & Diana Edwards Jane & Ron Payne seminars; a subscription to the Big Bend Paisano; a current Big Bend calendar; discounts at Roy & Aletha Ellis many other association bookstores in other national park sites; and the opportunity to support Bill & Jane Berry scientific, educational and research programs in Big Bend. Michael & Nancy Coe Annual Dues Kenn & Linda Sutton Individual $50 Join online at www.bigbendbookstore.org Allen & Linda Comstock Jim & Marlene Hufford Associate $100 Telephone: 432-477-2236 Mark Kirtley Corporate $200 Lillian Nichols & Robert Martin Joint (W/ FBBNP) $100 Or, make checks payable to BBNHA and detach and mail to: Earl Shumaker Big Bend Natural History Association, Richard Edwards Life Membership PO Box 196, Big Bend National Park, Texas 79834 Marty & Donna Niles Paul Bloom Individual/Family $500 Ed Navarro Corporate $1000 Name ______David Conway Benefactor $2500 Address ______Gary Lamar Renewal City ______State _____ Zip ______Ron Buckner New Member Mr. & Mrs. J Watson

The Big Bend Paisano 3 A NaturalAreaSignificance ofInternational Partners inProtection— TheIn News that there was much more. and deafening silence. But Iquickly learned sunrises, sunsets, the darkest night of skies, beckoned exploration. Ifound stunning canyons, peaks, mesas, and desertplains desert floor into endless blue sky. Distant rugged hills and mountains rising from the overwhelmed me. In every direction Isaw qualities. The openness and grandeur simply National Park Iwas struck by its wilderness From the moment Ientered Big Bend maybe the top the of list. add the West Big of Bend Texas to the list… Beartooth, all found inthe northwest. Inow Bitterroot, Great Bear, and Absaroka- areas bearnames like Marshall, Bob Selway- and restore my soul. My home wilderness society, Ioften sought wilderness to rest mechanizations and trappings modern of most my of life inplaces with all the I amdrawn to wilderness. Having lived Seasonal ParkRangerBobHamilton Much More Than Wilderness Mexican side the of river corridor. Norte Natural Monument to protect the 2009, Mexico established the Rio Bravo del ecosystem North of America. In October protectedset of areas inthe largest desert the other two areas, forming acontiguous Ocampo Natural Protected Area, between Coahuila. In June 2009,Mexico designated Chihuahua and Maderas del Carmen in protected areas: Cañon de Santa Elena in Mexico established two flora and fauna Big National Bend of Park in1944.In 1994, border, beginning with the establishment landscapes and habitat on both sides the of diligently preserved the spectacular volunteers, and local communities have Over the years, park rangers, scientists, and Mexico. 2.6 million acres land of protected inthe U.S. the world with more than 268river miles and The region isone the of most biodiverse in North America—the Chihuahuan desert. preserve the largest desertecosystem in complex parks of and protected areas helps Chihuahuaof and Coahuila, animpressive regionBend of Texas and the Mexican states Along the U.S-Mexico border inthe Big Sierra delCarmenMountains 4 The Big Bend Paisano

J. JURADO near anold ranch site may yield the sparkle by the driver anore of wagon. The ground tobacco, or evaporated milk canscast aside visible trail littered with rusted sardine, Any chosen path may cross anold or barely other places. meaningof and experience found infew land inthe past, traces that provide adepth many traces leftby those who lived on the But woven into this recovering landscape are primarily managed aswilderness. not beenlegally classified aswilderness, it is prior to designation. Though Big has Bend Most others were pristine natural areas nature parks, this makes Big unique. Bend land;” among our national parks, considered that Big was Bend created from “recycled superintendent, Lemuel Garrison, observed the landscape. Big second Bend’s mines, and riverside agriculture dominated Before Big National Bend Park, ranches, meaningful cross-cultural visit. be able experience asafe, pleasant, and across the border, visitors will once again a legal source income of for park neighbors reestablishment positive of relationships, and With coordinated eco-tourism activities, the crossing near the town Mexico. Boquillas, of Mexicoof to establish anofficial border and the Secretariat International of Affairs the Homeland of Department Security inquiries, isthe coordinated effort between and perhaps the issue stirring the most Another important aspect the of plan, Bend-Rio Bravo. climate change inthe protected areas Big of also mitigate and/or adapt to the effects of conservation efforts. Coordinated efforts will inbothpartners countries to facilitate joint exchange mechanism between agencies and In addition, the plan calls for aformal data in domestic and wild animal populations. monitoring and management diseases of and control wild fauna of diseasesincluding binational cooperation for the response to populations. The plan also calls for the reestablishment silvery of minnow species and species interest, of and species, monitoring threatened of ecosystems, control exotic of and invasive as restoration riparian and of aquatic issues along the river corridor such The plan addresses critical conservation and anaction plan have beenformulated. support this of important precedent, goals as anatural area binational of interest. In recognize and designate Big Bend-Rio Bravo for the U.S. and Mexico to work together to and Felipe Calderón expressed their support On May 19,2010,Presidents Barack Obama national treasures. wilderness idea, making it one our greatest of from the union history, of culture, and the reckoning, Big uniqueness Bend’s arises necessity the of human spirit.” By my said “Wilderness isnotaluxury, but a I have always agreed with Ed Abbey, who my life, and compel me to return. my desertexperience, provide perspective in hold me here, infuse important meaning into catclaw that tugs at my clothing, those spirits reside inthe relics their of lives. Like the I find transfixedmyself by the spirits that challenge me to stop and contemplate. Often identity isstill amystery. Such discoveries hearths, and metates leftby people whose campsite littered with stone flakes, fire table. Ihave walked through anancient brokenof ceramics from ahomesteader’s have burned thousands acres, of destroyed year has beenabig fire year. Local area fires conditionsDry also mean wildfires and this will ensure their survival. respond to hard times inany manner that predators, and prey—that depend on it. All the animals—invertebrates, vertebrates, in aburdened food chain weakens, sodo resemble crisp potato chips. As avital linkage creosote shrivels, and prickly pearpads dead and desiccated. Desert-adapted or nogrowth, turning brown and looking noticeable ways. Vegetation suffers with little environmental factors inavariety of plantsBoth and animals respond to harsh may berecord-setting aswell. drought years on record. It appears that 2011 1918 and the early 1950sasthe most severe in Texas (1895 to present), documents 1916– Drought Severity Index and wet dry of years its third worst inhistory. The Palmer this year all of Texas isreportedly enduring The harsh reality drought of isevident and postcard image areality. affects entire ecosystems, and makes that old freezes, the drought adds alevel stress of that Exacerbated by record-setting winter drought however, has surpassed the norm. the norm than the exception. The current Texas and Big National Bend Park are more card isrelevant asarid conditions inWest “Wish you were here!” Even today the old a water hole. Its over-used caption reads, crawling through the desertinsearch of the amusing depiction alost of prospector An old nickel postcard West of Texas offers The 5¢Postcard West Texas Drought— Park RangerRobDean Windmill atSamNail Ranch relief. the desertecosystem some much-needed watch for thunderheads and hopethey bring prospector searches for awaterhole, we the drought continues. And just asthe lost bleached skull isacaricature inreality as its parched desert,dried upcactus, and The postcard image West of Texas, with most severe. and closing trails inareas where fire danger is prohibiting campfires, issuing smoking bans, fire danger by limiting usecharcoal,of management has taken steps to minimize Conditions remain dire, however, and park Park have beensmall and easily contained. Fortunately, firesBend inBig National and management. fighting fires and working in fire prevention local area fire departments have beenbusy as well asNational Forest crews, and Service renowned Mexican fire crew, LosDiablos, homes, and killed livestock. Big Bend’s Relic from bygonedays "Wish youwere here!"

J. JURADO J. JURADO J. JURADO

J. JURADO Canyon’s Echo Seasonal Park Ranger Christina Rinas

My first trip to Santa Elena Canyon is forever Canyon and my first trip to Big Bend come The canyon wren is one of over 450 species lost count of how many times I’ve heard etched in my mind, though not necessarily to mind. of birds found here, the most of any national the canyon wren’s song. It still remains my because of the spectacular scenery. It is, park. Most of these are migrants, birds that favorite bird in the park. Each time I hear without a doubt, one of the most beautiful The canyon wren prefers the arid rocky pass through Big Bend in the spring and fall, its notes, I am reminded of the awe that places in the park. Massive limestone cliffs canyons and cliffs of the Western United or end their journey here for the summer Big Bend inspired in me. It keeps this place soar above the slow moving Rio Grande, and States. This tiny bird, less than six inches season to nest and raise their young before special and reminds me why I continue to hanging gardens of cactus and other desert in length, has large claws in comparison to returning south. The canyon wren, however, come back year after year. plants dangle precipitously from vertical its body, important for clinging to the sheer is a year-round resident, gracing the high surfaces. cliff-faces of its home. Its small, decurved cliffs and rocky places with its song year long. bill allows it to probe deep into crevices and Though they can be found in the Chisos What I remember most though, was the extract the insects and spiders that make up Mountains, it is along the Rio Grande where sudden musical trilling of a bird that broke the bulk of its diet. These items provide the their charismatic song is emblematic of the the mid-day silence. Over and over again wren with most of the water it needs, for it river, complementing the murmur of water these flute-like notes echoed off the canyon seldom drinks water. Inconspicuous, this flowing past towering canyon walls. walls, accentuating the tranquility. This was wren might go unnoticed if it weren’t for its the first time I had ever heard the singing song: a series of cascading whistles that echo It has been eight years now since my first of the canyon wren. From that day on, no off of the walls of its rocky home. To me, it’s visit to Santa Elena Canyon. The park’s matter where I hear this bird, Santa Elena one of the most beautiful bird songs. scenery has become a familiar sight and I’ve J. JURADO

Canoeing into Santa Elena Canyon A Wealth of Diversity

Seasonal Park Ranger Travis Smith

The life of a seasonal park ranger has In order to be a national park, an area must Less menacingly named strawberry pitaya, benefits, chief being the opportunity to have national significance. As I looked forming conspicuous mounds of low stems, work in some of the most beautiful places in around, I didn’t see anything significant— held more appeal. A single pitaya can present the world. The downside: sometimes a job nationally or otherwise. I recalled the over a hundred magenta flowers, each occurs in a place that doesn’t stun you with account of a 1916 military expedition: “The producing a sweet fruit of fire-engine red: a its grandeur from the get-go. That was my country isn’t bad. It’s just worse. Worse the valuable food source for wildlife. A personal experience when I first arrived in Big Bend moment you set foot from the train, and favorite is the Texas rainbow. Their showy National Park in the fall of 2008. Not only then, after that, just worser and worser.” I stems have alternating rings of white, pink, wasn’t I stunned by grandeur, I didn’t get it couldn’t have agreed more… Some national and red and their large yellow flowers can be J. JURADO at all. parks, though, are slow to reveal their streaked, tie-dye like, with pink and orange. Chisos hedgehog cactus secrets. It takes time to appreciate the stories hidden by a bleak exterior. My awakening Others hid concealed. Cryptic and tiny came later, and most unexpectedly. Boke’s button cactus and golf ball cacti were a challenge to find, squeezed between It happened months after my arrival. By rocks that shelter them from wind and sun. then I had learned that Big Bend supports Even harder to locate was living rock cactus. a surprising wealth of biological diversity, Growing on eroded limestone and lacking including sixty types of cacti—more than any spines, they look just like rocks. It was only in other national park. Unimpressed, I regarded the fall, when bright pink flowers appeared cacti as nemeses, accidents waiting to from the apparent stone, that a curious finger happen. Their spines tore my jeans, stabbed poke revealed their organic nature. my legs, and drew my blood. But then spring came, and the desert transformed with the Edward Abbey wrote, “Half the pleasure of a bloom of cactus flowers, their bursts of visit to Big Bend National Park, as in certain colors dappling the landscape in the most other affairs, lies in the advance upon the unexpected places. It was…unforgettable. object of our desire.” My exploration of the Now inspired, my search began. cacti continues. They have convinced me: Big Bend indeed has national significance. Some were easy to find, like Big Bend For others who venture here, it offers prickly pear. With its bright purple-red unlimited opportunity to find, and advance stems becoming more vivid in winter and upon the object, of their desire. J. JURADO during drought, it stood out in the crowd. Golf ball cactus

The Big Bend Paisano 5 A Doctor Seuss Landscape Student Conservation Association Intern Dana Crites J. JURADO J. JURADO

In the Big Bend As the park greens Where buffelgrass grows I venture about The cacti do thrive For I’ve heard a rumor Between creosote rows Ocotillo have leafed out!

The land seems so parched But how can this be? Beyond dry, dusty ranches Their stalks look quite dead With mean thorny shrubs Their only life sign And far-reaching branches Are their flowers of red

But I chose to come here Their thorny stalks change And live for a season Within days of a shower What drew me in? Their small green leaves grow I’ll tell you the reason! J. JURADO And sunlight devour

This desolate land But without these leaves Holds many a surprise: Ocotillo do fine Like Dr. Seuss trees With photosynthetic stems Ocotillo branches rise For use in dry times

Their grey thorny stalks My season's now ending Grow up to the air With much left to see Wet or dry seasons But I know I’ll return Make them leafy or bare To see this place green

And at their stalks end Next spring may be wet Bloom brilliant red flowers With a strong-flowing Rio, Regardless of leaves A sea of cactus blooms, Or soaking spring showers And green-covered ocotillo! J. JURADO J. JURADO

6 The Big Bend Paisano Siren’s Song Seasonal Park Ranger Amanda Evans

The siren’s song of the desert tempts some land. The tree became a destination for me, with its promise of hidden wonders in a challenge to meet, reachable only on foot treacherous country. Some hear notes from across rough terrain. After a long hike, arrival this elusive muse the first time they set foot at the tree brings relief, satisfaction, and … in the Big Bend, and are tempted to linger. something totally unexpected. Others hear only the howls of a dusty wind whipping across an empty landscape, and At this lone tree is the crumbling ruin of move on. a rock building: all that remains of Camp Neville Spring. From 1885 to 1891 it was Big Bend has always been like this. It is a land a military outpost for the Seminole Negro at once uninviting and appealing, a place in Indian Scouts, descendents of escaped slaves contradiction with itself. Many consider it who fled Florida to the safety of Mexico. undesirable land, unfit for human habitation. They returned to the United States following Yet for thousands of years people have the end of the Civil War and slavery, roamed the Big Bend and chose to make it welcomed by a U.S. Army in need of desert their home, myself included. tracking and fighting skills to counter Apache and Comanche warriors. From this isolated I heard Big Bend’s siren song when I first post the Scouts covered hundreds of miles arrived in the park four years ago, making with each patrol, their reports now buried in this place forever a part of my life. The military annals, their story largely forgotten. desert enchanted me, like it has so many But for me, learning their story and seeing others across the centuries. A big part of the remnants of their history is one more this enchantment was finding clues across verse in the siren song that draws me to Big the desert of those who had come before Bend. me: a single rusted horseshoe, a lonely grave marked with a wooden cross, flakes of stone Indeed, this is the beauty and power of around ancient fire rings; all are reminders Big Bend for me: a chance discovery in the that this is not a land untouched by humans. wilderness—an encounter with the lingering This desert is so challenging, so devoid of memories of those who once lived in this current settlement, but still whispers their harsh terrain. It is an experience nearly stories. indescribable. The desert tempts us with the whispered possibility of discovering its One of my favorite chapters in the story of secrets and, perhaps, our own. Those of us Big Bend can be read in an unexpected place. entranced by this siren’s spell know that, From Panther Junction, a small spot of green while we can leave Big Bend, it will remain can be found. It is a lone tree in the expanse part of our lives forever. There will always of desert scrub that signals the presence of be more of this desert, past histories, and water; a beacon of life in an otherwise harsh ourselves to explore and discover. Outland Places Student Conservation Association Intern Jenny Goucher

It was January, and I was driving from vibrant sunrises and sunsets, intensely hot John Steinbeck put it best: Whether it is a trail you had not hiked before Illinois to Big Bend for the first time. I was days, freezing cold nights, extreme times of or a plant that you had previously never seen, not entirely sure what to expect. Having drought, its very own mountain range and a “…it is rather more difficult to be killed or each time you visit Big Bend the discovery of done some research, I had prepared myself river that doubles as a political border—in a maimed in the outland places of the globe than new things is addicting. With its complexity, for what many had described as a remote word, Big Bend is complex. This complexity it is in the streets of our great cities, but the its remote beauty, Big Bend is a unique place land with few visitors. Being in a part of the is not contemporary but, like a fine wine, atavistic urge toward danger persists and its where adventure meets you at the entrance country where few venture was an exciting something that has been cultivated and cured satisfaction is called adventure. However, your station and keeps you coming back for more. prospect. through time. adventurer feels no gratification in crossing Market Street in San Francisco against the Just past the Persimmon Gap Visitor Center, Part of Big Bend’s appeal is the thing that traffic. Instead he will go to a good deal of I rolled down the window and felt a warm some people fear most: isolation. Often trouble and expense to get himself killed in the breeze hit my cheeks. Is this January? As the we are attracted to that which we fear. The South Seas. In reputedly rough water, he will beauty of this enigmatic landscape unfolded adventure of facing it, we find, can be the go in a canoe; he will invade deserts without before me, I was overwhelmed with emotion. cure. There are few places left in the world adequate food and he will expose his tolerant I soon learned that not many people come to where you can be alone with your thoughts and uninoculated blood to strange viruses. Big Bend and have a neutral reaction. and, by choice, not see another person for This is adventure.” days. One does not come to Big Bend by John Steinbeck, The Log from The Sea of It is not just the vastness of the landscape, accident. People choose this for themselves. Cortez. 1951. nor the unexpected diversity of life that draws one in. With its star-filled night skies,

The Big Bend Paisano 7 cliff. canyon before reaching atowering 200-foot through sotol/grassland and adense wooded Pine Canyon primitive road, dirt winds The theof Old Ore Road isaBig highlight. Bend roads. Old Ore Road are popular primitive dirt The River Road, GlennSprings Road, and carry appropriate gear . visitor centers for current road conditions, and drive vehicle isnecessary. Always check at roads. For these, ahigh clearance or 4-wheel and trails mentioned inthe previous sections there isample time to explore the roads and With aweek or more to spend inBig Bend, road. down the Grapevine Hills improved dirt Balanced Rock. The trailhead is6miles climbs to its featured highpoint—the wash through granite-like boulders, then The Grapevine Hills Trail High Chisos(4.8miles round trip). which isanexcellent introduction to the miles round trip),or the Lost Mine Trail Creek to the top the of Window pour-off (5 Window Trail In the area, Basin consider taking the have time to hike. the major roads more thoroughly and still With three days to spend, you canexplore ancient limestone and has marvelous vistas The drive to Rio Grande Village traverses theend of road. The magnificent Santa Elena Canyon is at the District showcase some Big past. Bend’s of Ranch, and avisit to the Castolon Historic Nail Ranch, Homer Wilson (BlueCreek) worthwhile stops. The short walks to the Sam Overlook,Ears and Tuff Canyon are all and exhibits along the way. Sotol Vista, Mule famous for, and offers many scenic overlooks highlights the geologic splendor Big is Bend A tripalong the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive mountains. remarkable ecosystems: the desert,river, and are several ways to explore Big three Bend's With one day to spend inthe park, there One ofthemanywaystoenjoyBigBendNationalParkandRioGrandeWildScenicRiver. One Day One Week Three Days What to and See Do 8 ­ time t Pine Canyon Trail, at the the end of The Big Bend Paisano The The Ernst Tinaja, near the southern end o drive some the of primitive dirt Chimneys Trail isagreat hike for which descends through Oak follows asandy the the mountains, the trails to Canyon Boot and you’dIf like to explore the High Chisos Hills travel through classic deserthabitat. Maverick Road, drive, youIf don’t have high clearance or 4-wheel visitor centers. is required and canbeobtained at park along these trails. A backcountry usepermit opportunitiesof for overnight backpacking highest point inthe park. There are plenty while the hike Peak to Emory leadsto the views inBig National Bend Park. This trail also offers one the bestof sunset for excellent vistas the of surrounding peaks. the 0.3mile self-guiding Window View Trail desert and cooler mountain habitats. Walk to experience the transition between arid A drive to the Chisos Basin isapleasant way promontory with excellent panoramic views. viewing platform then gradually climbs to a Village Nature Trail trailhead. Another highlight, the Rio Grande road near Rio Grande Village to access the spots. Travel to the the end of Boquillas Canyon—one Big most Bend's of scenic the way, isthe short hike into Boquillas del Carmen escarpment. A highlight along across the river to the magnificent Sierra at Rio Grande Village. between the Hot Springs and Daniel’s Ranch RVs). There isalso asix-mile round triptrail recommended for dual-wheeled vehicles or accessible via animproved road dirt (not Springs and birding. A soak inthe Historic Hot shady oasis with tables, nice for picnicking Wells, the drive to Rio Grande Village. At Dugout In addition, consider exploring stops on can bevery hotmid-day. trails are good morning or evening hikes, but Ross Maxwell Drive. Scenic these of Both an eroded volcanic dike. It islocated on the wildflowers in the spring with a closer look at South Rim improved dirt roads such asthe Old there isadesertnature trail and a isaalso apopular activity. It is offer great panoramic vistas, Dagger Flat, and Grapevine crosses awildlife Ernst Tinaja Ernst Hot Springs TrailWindow View Sunset

J. JURADO J. JURADO activities. centers and park bulletin boards for current more about the park. Check at the visitor programs are another fun way to learn Attending ranger about Big trails Bend’s and drives. bookstores, offer more detailed information and road guides, available at visitor center additional orientation. Also, hiker’s guides planning your itinerary, and exhibits provide there cananswers your questions or assist in excellent places to beginyour visit. Park staff Panther Junction or the are ChisosBasin The visitor centers at Persimmon Gap, Enjoying Your Visit conditions are listed on page 14. park’s roads. dirt Standard backcountry road a visitor center before traveling any the of Always check current road conditions at high-clearance vehicles and/or 4-wheel drive. Road or the River Road, generally require Primitive roads, dirt such asthe OldOre vehicles, except following rainstorms. condition and accessible to normal passenger Old Maverick Road, are usually ingood as the Dagger Flat, Grapevine Hills, and in the park. Improved roads, dirt such There are over roads dirt 200miles of Backcountry roads page 14for additional information. on page “Backcountry 16.See Planning” on and equipment rental companies are listed meets your abilities and interests. Outfitters Park rangers canrecommend atripthat floats to extended seven-day excursions. There are many possibilities, from half-day Rio Grande is both fascinating and gratifying. the park’s canyons from the middlethe of you may want to consider ariver trip. Seeing youIf have time and aspirit adventure, of Floating theRioGrande ­-led wa lks and evening

M. LAVENDER Popular Day Hikes

From the 7,832 foot (2,387 m) towering summit of Emory Peak, to the banks of the meandering Rio Grande, visitors have access to over 200 miles of hiking trails in Big Bend National Park. Trails range from strenuous primitive routes through rugged desert backcountry to short accessible pathways. Whatever your hiking preference, Big Bend has much to offer.

This page has descriptions of some of the most popular easy, moderate, and strenuous hiking trails, divided by geographic areas of the park. Many of these trails are perfect for shorter day hikes of up to several hours.

Trail Trailhead Location Round Trip Elevation Description Lower Burro Mesa Pour-off Trail (mi/km) (avg. time) (ft/m)

Eastside — Panther Junction and Rio Grande Village Featured Hike—Lower Grapevine Hills Grapevine Hills Road—3.5 miles 2.2/3.5 1 hour 240/73 Easy Follows a sandy wash through boulder field. A Burro Mesa Pour-off Balanced Rock west of Panther Junction short but steep climb at the end over beautiful eroded This short hike to the bottom of the Burro Usually passable for all vehicles. granite takes you to a large balanced rock. No shade. Mesa Pour-off showcases the geology of Big Hot Springs End of Hot Springs Road 0.75/1.2 1/2 hour 0/0 Easy Walk past historic buildings to the riverside hot Bend. Initially, you see dark Burro Mesa Unpaved narrow road. spring. Take a bathing suit and soak in 105°F water. rhyolite, the yellow band of the Wasp Spring Spring is subject to flooding during rising river levels. flow breccia, the white compressed ash (tuff) Daniel’s Ranch to Daniel’s Ranch parking area, west 6/10 3 hours 100/31 Moderate Trail leads from Daniel’s Ranch to the Hot of the Chisos Formation, and conglomerates. Hot Springs Trail of Rio Grande Village Springs. Cliff drop-offs prevent access to the river Then, while hiking through the dry wash, along most of the route. No shade—oppressive on you pass the same type of volcanic rock that hot days. formed Emory Peak, displaced over 3,000 Boquillas Canyon End of Boquillas Canyon Road 1.4/2.3 1 hour 40/12 Easy Begins with a short climb, then descends via a feet lower in this down-faulted block. The sandy path to the river. Ends near a huge sand dune trail ends at the base of a 100’ dry waterfall, “slide.” polished smooth by decades of rains and Rio Grande Village RGV Campsite 18 0.75/1.2 1 hour 130/40 Easy First 300 feet leads to a wildlife viewing flash floods. Nature Trail platform on a pond. Trail then climbs the hillside to views of the river and mountains. Great for birding and sunsets. More Information Chihuahuan Desert Dugout Wells 0.5/0.8 1/2 hour 10/3 Easy Loop trail with signs that interpret desert For information on longer, more challenging Nature Trail ecology. routes, or to plan an extended backpacking The Chisos Mountains Smoking is prohibited on all trails in the Chisos Mountains. trip, stop by any park visitor center. Park Basin Loop Chisos Basin Trailhead 1.6/2.6 1 hour 350/107 Moderate Connects the Laguna Meadow and rangers can assist you with trip preparations (near the Basin Store) Pinnacles Trails. Nice views of the Basin area. and backcountry permits. Visitor center Window View Chisos Basin Trailhead 0.3/0.5 1/4 hour 0/0 Easy Level, paved, accessible. Great mountain views. bookstores carry a large selection of maps (near the Basin Store) Best place in the Basin to catch sunset through the and guides including those listed below. Window. Hiker’s Guide to trails of Big Lost Mine Basin Road mile 5 at the pass 4.8/7.7 3 hours 1100/335 Moderate Excellent mountain and desert views. Bend National Park For a shorter hike, 1 mile up is a great view to the southeast. Covers all major trails in the park, from short self-guided The Window Chisos Basin Trailhead or 5.6/9.0 4 hours 980/299 Moderate Descends to the top of the Window pour- nature trails to strenuous Basin Campground 4.4/7.0 3 hours 500/152 off. Great scenery and wildlife viewing. For a shorter backpacking routes. $1.95 hike, start at the Basin campground.

Road Guide to paved and Emory Peak Chisos Basin Trailhead 10.5/17 7 hours 2400/789 Strenuous Trail leads to the highest peak in the park, with excellent views. The end of the trail involves improved dirt roads of Big Bend some moderate rock climbing. National Park Describes points of interest South Rim Chisos Basin Trailhead 12/19.4 8 hours 2000/656 Strenuous Trail leads to the 2000’ cliff—the south visible from all paved and 15/24 10 hours 2000/656 rim—with incredible views of the desert below. Hike improved dirt roads in the park. either the southwest rim, or add the northeast and southeast rim trail when open. $1.95 Westside — Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive Road Guide to backcountry dirt Santa Elena Canyon Ross Maxwell Drive 1.6/2.6 1 hour 80/26 Easy Crosses river sand and rocks, including wading roads of Big Bend National Park 8 miles west of Castolon Terlingua Creek. Switchbacks ascend and then the trail gradually drops back to the river in the canyon. Detailed mileage logs of Old Ore Road, Glenn Spring Road, and The Chimneys Ross Maxwell Drive 4.8/7.7 2 hours 400/122 Moderate Flat and scenic desert trail to rock forma- River Road. Good descriptions mile 13 tions. Look for rock art. No shade. of historic sites and scenery. $1.95 Mule Ears Spring Ross Maxwell Drive 3.8/6.1 3 hours 20/6 Moderate Beautiful desert hike to a small spring. mile 15 Spectacular geology and mountain/desert views. Chisos Mountains Trails Map A topographic map that includes all trails in the Chisos Upper Burro Mesa Ross Maxwell Drive 3.6/5.75 2 hours 300/91 Moderate Walk the wash downstream through two Pour-off mile 6 canyons to reach the upper lip of a pour-off that is Mountains. Includes trail wet only after rain. Do not take this trail when storms lengths and descriptions. $0.99 are likely due to a lack of escape routes.

Lower Burro Mesa Burro Mesa Spur Road 1.0/1.6 1/2 hours 60/18 Easy Trail enters a dry wash and ends at the bottom Pour-off of the dramatic Burro Mesa pour-off. A great walk for viewing geological features. Hiking Big Bend In collaboration with national Northside — Persimmon Gap park rangers, Laurence Parent has compiled a comprehensive Dog Canyon Pullout 3.5 miles south of 3.5/5 3 hours 50/16 Moderate Cairned trail leads through the open guide to 44 of the most Persimmon Gap desert and into Dog Canyon. Very exposed in summer heat. popular hikes. Photos show terrain and views. Describes Devil’s Den Pullout, 3.5 miles south of 6.5/10.4 4 hours 600/196 Moderate Route follows dry washes and leads to a difficulty, elevation changes, and maps needed. Persimmon Gap narrow canyon. Technical climbing required inside the Also includes three hikes in Big Bend Ranch State canyon. = Self-guiding trail = Accessible trail Park. $14.95

The Big Bend Paisano 9 for the spirit aswell asthe mind. horizon. These nighttime vistas provide food our home galaxy, stretching from horizon to witnessing the starry the band of Milky Way, can beseenhere. Perhaps most impressive is starsnumbers imperceptible of otherwise far from the light pollution cities, of vast theof United States, and aremote location theof darkest night skies inthe lower 48 opportunities to share hislegacy. With some Here inBig we Bend, have one the of best that motivates and inspires park rangers. a passion for nature isanopportunity Like Carl Sagan, spreading alove and public. study the cosmos, but to share it with the He leftusalegacy, and avision to notonly through hisaward winning series, Cosmos when he popularized the astronomy field of Astronomer Carl Sagan made this point that our earth and bodies are made from. elements inthe universe—everything Exploding supernovas create all known Did you know we are madestar of stuff? dust. Thesmallbrightspotsonthehorizonlineare far-off citiessuchasElPaso,Texas andChihuahuaCity, Mexico, whoselightsare onlyvisibleduetothistimeexposure photo.Theparkradiotowerisontheright. Emory Peak,April15,2007,nearlocalmidnight.This360-degree photoshowstheMilkyWay skirting theentire horizon.TheZodiacalbandandgegenscheinglowsare visible,whichare reflections ofsunlightfrom interstellar are looking for one for the record book, birds are equally asthrilling. Whether you For many visitors, Big “every Bend’s day” The attraction lies notonly inthe rarities. —2007… the list goes on. vented oriole—2006, fan-tailed warbler robin—2000, Aztec thrush—2003, black- piratic flycatcher—1998, rufous-backed sulphur-bellied flycatcher—1997, violet-crowned hummingbird—1996, flycatcher isjust manyone of surprises: back to Big year Bend after year. The tufted discovering the unexpected that brings them For many birders, it isthis chance of life list. It isaclassic Big birding Bend story. excellent looks and anotation on the coveted flycatcher obliges hundreds birders of with Over the next month and ahalf, the little country rush to Big to Bend seethis rarity. days the of report, people from all over the in Texas, the fifth in the entire U.S. Within the second record inBig the Bend, third he gets hisanswer: atufted flycatcher, only days later, after posting the images on-line, several photographs for later study. Several Unsure the of bird’s identity, he manages camera, aprominent crest becomes evident. flycatcher behavior. In the long lensthe of attention; asmall cinnamon-colored bird, Village. Movement inatree draws his VanWallene scans for birds inRio Grande November 21,2010. Arizona birder Matt ParkRangerMarkFlippo Birds and Birdwatching St Seasonal ParkRangerGailAbend 10 The Big Bend Paisano ar Stuff . look for meaning. Big National Bend Park quest, to reflect on one’s life and perhaps spirit guides, inspiring one to go on aninner wondersense of and solace. The stars canbe Gazing into aclear, dark night sky brings a meaning. before, and looking into space took on new people going where nohumans had gone television coverage. It was exciting to witness a space launch occupied anentire day of fortunate to have grown upinthe years when have conceived exploring of space. Ifeel left that star, most people would never away star? When the light from Betelgeuse thoughts and feelings asthey gazed at that far Big 600years Bend ago. What were their Imagine the people roaming through 600 years to reach us. constellation Orion, for example, took over the red supergiant star Betelgeuse inthe through space and time. The light from that are millions miles away, of shine at us Those twinkling light, points of the stars aforementioned tufted flycatcher being a the potential still exists for surprises, the spectacular asthat the of spring. However, early December, the fall migration isnotas lasting longer, generally from mid-August to here. Moving at amore leisurely paceand its annual migration isagreat time to be you are likely to see. The fall season with The your timing of visit will dictate the birds remaining lower desertareas. the Chisos(BlueCreek Canyon), and the shrub community along the lower slopes of and Pine Canyon),(Boot the grassland/ moist wooded canyons the of high Chisos (Green Gulch and lower Lost Mine trail), the areas include the pinyon-juniper-oak belt and SamNail Ranch). Other productive and the many desertsprings (Dugout Wells Village and Cottonwood campgrounds), corridor the of Rio Grande (Rio Grande First are the riparian areas, including the birds and to build your “Big List.” Bend will provide the best opportunities to see can befound. Searching inthese key areas given season and the habitats inwhich they which species are likely to bepresent ina center and isagreat aid indetermining birds isavailable for purchase at any visitor knowledge where of to look. A checklist of need ispatience, agood field guide, and National Park has much to offer. All you or enjoying the birds at hand, Big Bend is star stuff. everything inthis world, including ourselves, learn, to berenewed, and to remember that are at the right place at the right moment to the universe beckons usto realize that we Big National Bend of Park night skies. Here, erupting geysers. Iamdrawn to the beauty world—some with towering mountains or There are many places to visit or live inthis come to appreciate your place init all. how old they are, and their destiny, you may up at those stars, understand how they form, youimmenseness but, take if the time to look big to comprehend, we may feel puny inits your place inthis vast universe. It may betoo space, you have the opportunity to ponder the ground your of campsite looking upinto you’re sitting outside your lodge room, or on incredible starry nights inBig whether Bend, offers such places for reflection. On those conservation inseveral ways. Don’t disturb birds to the brink.You canhelp with bird Habitat impacts are bringing many these of are populations members of indecline. that are the source your of enjoyment keep inmind that many the of species While “listing” isalegitimate and fun activity, towhee. orange-crowned warbler, and green-tailed includingBend, the Anna’s hummingbird, by species that spend only the winter inBig black-throated sparrow. These are joined roadrunner, verdin, cactus wren, and to the desertsouthwest, include greater residents the of park, many them of unique diversity to your list. Easily found permanent not to worry. There are other birds to lend plumage ducks and sparrows ishuge, but desert. The challenge identifying of winter grassy areas inthe lower and mid-elevation along the Rio Grande, the latter haunting are waterfowl and sparrows; the former during the winter months. Many these of the park, almost athird them of occur here challenging. the 452species Of reported in Big canalso Bend bevery productive, albeit Winter season (December–midFebruary) in rare, red-faced warblers. including hermit, black-throated green, and spring sometimes show upagain inthe fall, theof second chance. Warblers missedinthe prime example. Fall canalso bethe season unexpected! You could bethe next to discover the Enjoy the birds Big and Bend, remember: of record and canbeanaid to researchers. Your detailed reports become the of part particularly rare of and accidental species. Please share your observations with us, and 29(ask at avisitor center for details). Christmas Bird Counts held 28 December damage water sources. And join in the annual fragile habitat areas, taking care notto attempts at photography. Tread softly in birds with excessive noiseor intrusive Tufted flycatcher CELESTIAL EVENTS • • • • • • • • • • AT BIGBEND March 20,2012 Spring Equinox January 3–4,2012 Quadrantid MeteorShower December 21,2011 Winter Solstice December 19–22,2011 Ursid MeteorShower December 11–14,2011 Geminid MeteorShower December 10,2011 Lunar Eclipse(before dawn) November 16–18,2011 Leonid MeteorShower November 4–6,2011 Taurid MeteorShower October 20–22,2011 Orionid MeteorShower October 7–9,2011 Draconid MeteorShower

D. DURISCOE J. WEBER Keeping Wildlife Wild M. GONZALES

Snacks for bears are not on the menu at the Lodge for a good reason—our food is bad for them. There really are no problem animals—only problem people. Carelessness can kill. Don’t be responsible for the death of a wild animal. Your actions affect both Big Bend’s wildlife and future park visitors. With your help, wildlife and humans can live safely together in Big Bend National Park.

Mountain Lions Each year, an average of 130 sightings of Please Help Solitary and secretive, the mountain lion mountain lions are reported by the visiting is Big Bend’s top predator, and is vital in public within Big Bend National Park. While maintaining the park’s biological diversity. over 60 percent of these sightings were In Developed Campgrounds Everywhere you go in Big Bend, you are along park roadways, encounters along trails • Store food, beverages, toiletries, pet food, and dishes in the bearproof in the territory of at least one lion. From have also occurred. Mountain lions live storage locker provided at your site. mountain to desert, biologists estimate throughout the park, including the Chisos • Keep your campsite clean. Take trash that the park has a stable population of Mountains, where they sometimes use man- and food scraps to a dumpster. made trails. The best plan of action is for you approximately two dozen lions. Within the • Dump liquids in restroom utility sinks, to be aware of your surroundings. Watch delicate habitats of the Chihuahuan Desert, not on the ground. children closely; never let them run ahead of mountain lions help balance herbivores and • Ice chests and coolers are not bear- you. Avoid hiking alone or at dusk and dawn. vegetation. Research shows that these large proof; store them in your vehicle. predators help keep deer and javelina within the limits of their food resources. Without A free brochure with more information Cyclists lions, the complex network of life in Big about mountain lions is available at all visitor • Use food storage lockers when Bend would certainly be changed. centers. provided. D. SWEETMAN At the Lodge • Leave nothing outside your room, on Javelinas fruits, berries, and seeds. Unfortunately the balcony, or on the porch. For many visitors in Big Bend National Park, however, many javelinas now include human food as part of their diet. In the Backcountry seeing a javelina (pronounced hav-uh-LEE- • Never leave packs or food unattended. nuh) is a new experience. These curious • Avoid carrying odorous food and creatures, also known as collared peccaries, Every year reports document more and toiletries. are only found in the United States in Texas, more campsites raided by javelinas. Although • Leave excess food and beverages in not normally aggressive, they can be when New Mexico, and Arizona. They are covered your trunk or food storage box. food is involved. Protect yourselves and the with black, bristly hairs and generally weigh • Carry out all trash, including orange javelina by properly storing all your food between 40 and 60 pounds. They usually peels, cigarette butts, and left-over travel in groups called bands that consist of inside a vehicle or in the food storage lockers food. 10–25 individuals. Peccaries have a highly provided in the campgrounds. Do not leave • Ice chests and coolers are not bear- developed sense of smell, but very poor coolers or food boxes unattended on picnic proof; store them in your vehicle. vision. Physically, javelinas resemble pigs, but tables or in a tent. Flatten tents when you in reality, they are not closely related to pigs are away from your campsite. It is important at all and have been genetically distinct from that javelinas and all park animals rely on them for millions of years. their natural food sources to stay healthy and safe. With your help, these unique animals A javelina’s diet includes prickly pear cactus, will continue to thrive and park visitors will J. JURADO grasses, mesquite beans, piñon pine nuts, continue to be thrilled to see them.

attempts to get more “people” food. Rangers Black Bears If you encounter a The return of black bears to Big Bend may have to kill bears that lose their fear National Park is a success story for both the of people and endanger humans in their bear or mountain lion: bears and the park. Native to the Chisos attempts to get our food. Mountains, bears disappeared from this • Do not run (you may resemble prey). area by the 1940s. After an absence of nearly Big Bend has made it easy to keep edible fifty years, bears began returning to the park items away from bears. The Chisos Basin • Watch children closely and never let them run ahead or lag behind. from Mexico in the late 1980s. Today, wildlife Campground, at High Chisos backpacking biologists estimate that between 15–20 black sites, and at some primitive roadside • Try to look large. Wave your arms. bears may live in the park. campsites have bearproof storage lockers for caching all edibles. Hard-sided vehicles • Throw rocks or sticks if threatened. Black bears are omnivorous; their normal are also suitable for storing edible items. All dumpsters throughout the park are diet is comprised of large amounts of nuts, • If attacked, fight back. fruits, sotol and yucca hearts, and smaller bearproof, as well. quantities of small mammals, reptiles, and • Report any bear or mountain lion carrion. Bears normally avoid humans, but A free brochure with more information sightings or encounters to a park ranger bears that learn to get food from human about black bears is available at all visitor as soon as possible. sources often become aggressive in their centers.

The Big Bend Paisano 11 Information and Services Ranger Programs Lodging No Fires Accessibility Join a park ranger for a guided hike, evening The Chisos Mountains Lodge, operated by Ground fires and wood fires are prohibited All visitor centers are accessible. Wheelchair- slide show, talk, or workshop on Big Bend’s Forever Resorts LLC, is located in the Chisos throughout the park. Use only gas stoves accessible campsites and restrooms are natural and cultural history. These free Basin at 5,400 feet elevation. The lodge offers or charcoal within a BBQ grill. Pack out located in Chisos Basin and Rio Grande programs are offered most days. Check 72 rooms, a gift shop and restaurant. For all evidence of use, including ash. In the Village Campgrounds. The Chisos the interpretive activities schedule posted reservations or more information, please backcountry, charcoal fires are only allowed Mountains Lodge restaurant is accessible, as on visitor center and campground bulletin call 1-877-386-4383 or visit their website at at roadside campsites and are prohibited in are some motel rooms. A device for hearing boards for more information. chisosmountainslodge.com the High Chisos or zone camping areas. impaired is available at park headquarters. Employees with sign language abilities may Camper Stores Gas Stations Showers and Laundry be available. Some ranger-led programs Forever Resorts LLC operates camper stores Gasoline is available in the park at two Public showers and laundry facilities are are also accessible. The Window View Trail year-round at three locations in the park: locations operated by Forever Resorts LLC. located at the Rio Grande Village store. is paved and fairly level. A brochure on Castolon, Chisos Basin, and Rio Grande The Panther Junction station has gasoline accessibility is available at all visitor centers. Village. Groceries, camping supplies and and diesel. The station at Rio Grande Village Cell Phones souvenirs are available in all locations. The has unleaded fuel and propane. Limited cell phone coverage is available in gas station at Panther Junction also has a the Big Bend area. Do not depend on your limited selection of groceries. Post Office phone to work in the Chisos Basin or remote A full-service Post Office is located at the portions of the park. Banking Panther Junction headquarters, near the There are no banking facilities in Big Bend visitor center entrance. Open Monday– Recycling National Park. ATMs are located in the park Friday, 8am–1pm, and 3pm–4:30pm except Please use the recycling bins provided in at the Chisos Mountains Lodge and the Rio federal holidays. A mail drop is also available campgrounds, around stores, and near Grande Village Store. The nearest bank is in front of the Chisos Basin store. visitor centers. On average, the park recycles located in Study Butte, 26 miles west of park around 100,000 pounds of material each headquarters. Most stores accept major Wifi/Public Phones year. Every pound of material that can be credit cards; however, some local services Wireless internet is available at the Chisos recycled means one less pound buried in the accept only cash. It is advisable to have small Mountains Lodge and the Rio Grande park landfill. Please recycle! bills ($1, $5, $10, $20) as larger bills may be Village Store. Public phones are located at difficult to change. visitor centers, campgrounds, camper stores, J. JURADO and the Chisos Mountains Lodge. Camping Tent Camping Near the RV park is the 100-site Rio Grande Group Camping The National Park Service operates Village Campground operated by the Groups of 9 or more are eligible to reserve campgrounds at Rio Grande Village, the National Park Service. Water, flush toilets, a spot in one of the park’s group campsites Chisos Basin, and Castolon. The cost is and dump station are available. Set in a large at the Rio Grande Village, Chisos Basin, and $14.00 per night per site. Campsite fees can grove of cottonwoods, the campground is Cottonwood Campgrounds. Group sites are be paid in U.S. currency, personal checks, adjacent to the Rio Grande. Many of the sites reservable year round and reservations may or credit card. Camping is also available are pull-throughs. Generator use is limited: be made 360 days in advance through www. at primitive backcountry campsites in the from 8:00am to 8:00pm daily. A no-generator recreation.gov. Chisos Mountains and along backcountry use area is also designated. roads. High-clearance or 4-wheel drive Camping Limits The 60-site Chisos Basin Campground is vehicles are necessary to reach most road Visitors can stay in the park only up to rugged and hilly. Sites are small and most sites. Backcountry permits are required and 14 consecutive nights, whether in a front are not suited to recreational vehicles or can be obtained in person at park visitor or backcountry site, with a limit of 28 trailers. The road to the Basin is steep and centers up to 24 hours in advance (see page total nights in the park in a calendar year. curvy, especially at Panther Pass—the road’s 14). Campers can occupy a specific site up to 14 highest point. The road into the campground total nights in a year. Between February 1 is a 15 percent grade. Trailers longer than Camping areas are often full during the and April 15, visitors are limited to 14 total 20 feet and RVs longer than 24 feet are not Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays, as well nights in the park. as during spring break in March or April. recommended.

Trailers & RVs Cottonwood Campground, near Castolon, Campsite Reservations has pit toilets and potable water, but no Forty-three (43) sites at Rio Grande Village The only hookups available in Big Bend hookups or dump station. Cottonwood is a campground and twenty-six (26) sites at the National Park are at Rio Grande Village no-generator campground. Chisos Basin campground are reservable in the 25-site, Rio Grande Village RV Park from November 15 to April 15 each year, operated by Forever Resorts LLC. Although Big Bend’s unpaved roads are generally and visitors may make reservations for there is no size restriction, your vehicle unsuitable for RVs and trailers. Overnight that period up to 180 days in advance. must be equipped with water and electrical camping in any primitive site requires a All remaining campsites in these two hookups as well as a three-inch sewer backcountry permit, which can be obtained campgrounds and the entire Cottonwood connection. Register at the store or call in person at park visitor centers up to 24 campground remain on the first-come, first- 1-877-386-4383 in advance. hours in advance (see page 14 for more served basis. information). Campsite reservations may be made by phone at 1-877-444-6777, or on-line at www. recreation.gov.

Chisos Basin campsite

Developed Campgrounds at a Glance

Elevation (ft/meters) Sites Nightly Fee Facilities Registration Comments Chisos Basin 5,401 / 1,646 60 $14.00* Flush toilets, dump station Self-pay station Surrounded by rocky cliffs; many hiking trails nearby Cottonwood 2,169 / 661 31 $14.00* Pit toilets, no generator use allowed Self-pay station In a cottonwood grove along the river. Grassy sites. Rio Grande Village 1,850 / 564 100 $14.00* Flush toilets, dump station Self-pay station Largest campground; shady sites. Laundry and showers nearby. Rio Grande Village RV 1,850 / 564 25 $27.00 and up Full hookups RGV Camper Store Concession-operated; register at the RGV store. * $7.00 with an eligible Federal Recreation Pass

12 The Big Bend Paisano Pets inthePark 432-837-5416 Alpine, Texas Alpine SmallAnimalClinic 432-837-3888 Alpine, Texas Alpine VeterinaryClinic operate inthegreaterBigBendarea: The followingkennelandveterinaryservices • • • • • • when bringingapettothepark: Please keepinmindthefollowingpoints activities andexplorationsinthepark. Having apetwithyoumaylimityour well being. predators are aseriousthreat toyourpet’s In addition,desertheatisdeadlyand The result isstress onnativewildlife. image andscentofahistoricalpredator. doesn’t chaseanimals,dogspresent the animals andplants.Evenifyourpet A nationalparkisarefuge foritsresident predators. defend themselvesagainstsuch do killpets.Evenlargedogscannot javelinas, andmountainlionscan Predators suchasowls,coyotes, receptacles. your petanddisposeofwasteintrash require thatyoualwayscleanupafter Pet etiquetteandparkregulations Do notleaveyourpetaloneinavehicle. park. Pets maynotbeleftunattendedinthe on theriver. anywhere off establishedroadways, or Pets are notallowedonparktrails, all times. than sixfeetinlength,oracageat Keep yourpetonaleash,nolonger areas. trails orinbackcountry Pets are notallowedon Kennels at alltimes. Pets mustbeonaleash

cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Preserve the past. Examine, but do nottouch, Leave WhatYou Find hygiene products. hole when fi nished. Pack out toilet paper and camp, and trails. Cover and disguisethe cat- inches deep at least 0.25mile from water, solid human waste incat-holes dug 6to 8 out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack Pack it in,pack it out. Inspect your campsite Dispose ofWaste Properly vegetation isabsent. campsites small. Focus on areas where from springs, creek beds,and tinajas. Keep riparian areas by camping at least 100yards the trail, even when wet or muddy. Protect the trail, walk insingle fi lein the middle of and campsites, rock, and gravel. While on Durable surfaces include established trails Travel andCamp onDurableSurfaces paint, rock cairnsor fl agging. compass to eliminate the marking useof parties into groups 4–6.Use of amap and season. Visit insmall groups. Split larger Mountains. Schedule your visit to avoid peak temperatures are possible inthe Chisos little to noshade; inthe winter freezing desert temperatures inthe summer with Big isalandextremes. Bend of Plan on high Plan aheadandprepare Leave No Trace inBig Bend information. and tweezers handy. Pleaseseepages 11and 15for additional safety stand asagroup. vegetation Desert canbesharp; have afi rst aid kit rather than by themselves. Keep all your children with you and hiking or exploring the park. Require children to walk with adults, sureBe to talk to your children about safe behavior before you begin Be Safe let them runahead or lag behind. trailhead.Chisos Basin Remember to watch children closely; never Window View Trail, apaved 0.25mile looptrail that beginsat the and moderate hikes on page 9.For children instrollers, consider the Many park trails are suitable for families. Consult the listing easy of Hike aTrail! suggestions. all theof available programs. Stop by any visitor center for further features. Check the schedule at any visitor center to take advantage hikes, slide programs, bird walks, and explorations various of park Get kids involved inranger-led programs. These include guided hands-on exhibits at the Castolon Visitor Center. mountain lion exhibit at the Visitor ChisosBasin Center, and the area, the Hot Springs, the sand dune Canyon, inBoquillas the park at the Panther Junction Visitor Center, the Fossil BoneExhibit Kids visiting the park will enjoy the exhibits and relief the map of roomof and opportunity to explore. plants, animals, and stories human of history, giving children plenty the Rio Grande, and upinto the ChisosMountains. All are rich with Big habitats Bend’s range across the Chihuahuan down to Desert, Explore! Big Bend... Avoid loud voices and noises. and other visitors. Letnature’s sound prevail. stock. Take breaks and campaway from trails side the of trail when encountering pack other userson the trail. Step to the downhill theirof experience.courteous. Be Yield to Respect other visitors and protect the quality Be ConsiderateofOtherVisitors supervision at all times. trails. Pets should beon leash and under are notallowed inthe backcountry or on by storing rations and trash securely. Pets dangers. Protect wildlife and your food exposes them to predators and other their health, alters natural behaviors, and wild animals. Feeding wild animals damages notfollowDo or approach them. Never feed Observe Big wildlife Bend’s from adistance. Respect Wildlife stove, or the barbecue grills inyour campsite. may useabackpacking stove, portable fuel National Park. In order to cook foods you resCampfi are not allowed in Big Bend Minimize Campfi re Impacts build structures, furniture, or dig trenches. or transporting non-native species. not Do objects asyou fi nd them. Avoid introducing Leave rocks, wildfl owers and other natural more information. swimming pool.” Contact Balmorhea State Park at 432-375-2370for hour drive north Big boasts Bend) of the “world’s largest spring-fed If you really want to swim, Balmorhea State Park (about athree- rain, the hotspring becomes submerged. Springs (near Rio Grande Village). When the Rio Grande risesdue to (always check river conditions fi rst). You cansoak in the 105°F Hot trailhead area may besuitable for wading the attimes certain of year The the end of Canyon Boquillas Trail and the Santa Elena Canyon recommended page. See 15for important water safety information. and often diffi cult tofi nd.Swimming in the Rio Grande is not Big isadesertpark; Bend water isaprecious commodity here Is there anyplacetoswim inthepark? park visitor centers. The Junior Ranger Activity costs Book $2.00and isavailable at all bookmark, and acertifi cate. as they learnabout the park. They canalso earnabadge or patch, a all ages.of Through activities, games, and puzzles,kids canhave fun javelina eat! The Big Junior Bend Ranger program isdesigned for kids Learn desertsecrets, identify acactus, the and of discover parts what Become aJuniorRanger! ...is for Kids! future visitorscandothesame. the resources ofBigBendexactlyasyouseethemso It’s notjustabouttoday—doyourpart tomaintain The Big Bend Paisano 13 E. LEONARD J. GREENE operating hours. obtained at all visitor centers during normal and current trail conditions. Permits canbe with tripplanning basedon your needs in the backcountry. Park can assist staff you written for asmany as14consecutive nights hours inadvance the of trip. Permits canbe and canbeobtained inperson only, upto 24 use, and overnight backcountry camping, A permit isrequired for all river use,horse Getting aPermit permit isrequired to usethese sites. offer noamenities or shade. Abackcountry views, isolation, and aflat gravel space, but tois necessary reach others. Sites have nice high clearance and/or 4-wheel drive vehicle some sites are accessible to most vehicles, a campsites along backcountry roads. While Big offers Bend over seventy primitive backcountry without having to backpack, For those who wish to campinthe Backcountry Roads popular trails to extremely isolated areas. zonesa number of ranging from areas along Chisos Mountains. The park isdivided into those who wish to campoutside the of Zone camping permits are available for falcon nesting season (February 1–May 31). junction are closed during the peregrine Trail from the Canyon/Southeast Boot Rim Trail and aportion the of Northeast Rim In the ChisosMountains, the Southeast Rim be unpleasant or deadly inhotter months. how much time you have. hiking Desert can how much distance you want to cover and overnight tripsinthe backcountry. Decide desert terrain. A permit isrequired for all hikingof trails inthe ChisosMountains and Big National Bend Park offers over 200miles Hiking &Backpacking Backcountry Planning Black Gap River RoadWest River RoadEast Pine Canyon Paint Gap Old Ore Old Maverick Juniper Canyon North Rosillos Hot Springs Grapevine Hills Glenn Springs Dagger Flat Croton Spring 14 cause road conditionstodeteriorate.Allvehicles mustbestreet legal andstayonestablishedroadways. Ask atavisitorcenterforupdatedroad conditions,andbeprepared foranycontingency. Weather may Standard BackcountryRoadConditions The Big Bend Paisano 4X4/HConly High Clearance High Clearance High Clearance All Vehicles High Clearance High Clearance High Clearance High Clearance All Vehicles All Vehicles High Clearance All Vehicles All Vehicles Road opento: Mesa trails are day-use only. Mountains. The Chisos Mountain and Burro permitted inthe park, except inthe Chisos are opento horses. Cross-country travel is roads or road shoulders, all gravel roads While horses are notpermitted on paved regarding horses useof inthe park. user should obtain acopy the of regulations hours inadvance the of trip. Every horse at any the of park’s visitor centers upto 24 required and may beobtained inperson horses inthe park. A stock-use permit is Visitors are welcome to bring and usetheir Horses trips inthe desert. water isrecommended for extended hiking life by depending on desertsprings. Caching to supply your own needs—don’t risk your depend on them. enough Pleasecarry water sources isone lessfor the wildlife which gallon removed from backcountry water unreliable. Water should befiltered. Every where water collects) are rare and often Springs and tinajas (depressions inrock centers. Big isadesertenvironment. Bend for drinking water are available at all visitor each day they are inthe backcountry. Spigots onedrink aminimum of gallon water of for water reserves. Each hiker should and carry The desertairquickly dry usesupthe body’s Backcountry Water maintenance. backcountry campsite maintenance, and trail hardening/improving river access points, the backcountry experience, including collected go to projects to improve or protect when the permit isissued, and all funds backcountry camping. This fee ispayable including multi-day river trips,and overnight overnight backcountry usepermits, A $10-perpermit fee isrequired for all UseFee Overnight 4x4 required! never maintained High-clearance vehiclesonly, 4X4recommended High-clearance vehiclesonly High-clearance vehiclesonly;rough, rocky, &slow High-clearance pastPG3campsite High-clearance vehiclesonly, 4X4recommended Rough; oftenimpassableafterheavyrains High-clearance vehiclesonly;rough, rocky, &slow Deep rutsandsand;little-traveled Narrow road; Trailers noRVs, orwidevehicles Usually passableforallvehiclestotrailhead Narrow road; Trailers noRVs, orwidevehicles Bumpy butokforcars;verysandynearendofrd. Slippery mudafteranyrain Notes conditions. the most up-to-date river information and park visitor center when possible, to obtain encourage all partiesto get their permits at a Warnock Center inLajitas. However, we Canyon may beobtained at the Barton Center. Permits for floating Santa Elena obtained at the Persimmon Gap Visitor Grande Wild and River Scenic may be Permits for the Lower Canyons the of Rio information prior to your trip. permit and for current river condition Panther Junction Visitor Center for your permit at apark visitor center. Stop by the your own equipment, you must obtain a contacting them directly. you If plan to use in the park—you may reserve atripby telephone numbers) provide guide service Three local companies (seepage 16for equipment, or you canhire aguide service. National Park, you may bring your own youIf plan to take ariver tripinBig Bend boundary for anadditional 127miles. River extends downstream beyond the park paced. The Rio Grande Wild and Scenic the canyons, the river isgenerally slower- difficulty from Class I to Class BetweenIV. whichBoquillas, have rapids varying in major canyons, Santa Elena, Mariscal, and miles. In this distance it has carved three Big Nationalboundary Bend of Park for 118 The Rio Grande follows the southern Floating theRioGrande at www.bigbendbookstore.org. 432-477-2236 or visit their online bookstore Big Natural Bend History Association at order them inadvance your of trip, call the at park visitor centers. you If would like to and river guides isavailable for purchase A wide variety maps, books, of hiking guides the park’s website at www.nps.gov/bibe. along the backcountry roads isavailable on campsites inthe ChisosMountains and Detailed information on backcountry Plan Ahead Black GapRoad

J. AXEL J. AXEL contained invehiclesorbearboxes. food containersunattended.Keep trash where provided. Donotleaveopen hard-sided vehicleorfood storage locker, food, icechests,andcookgearina in havingtodestroy theanimal. Keep Feeding wildlifeisillegal;itoftenresults Do notfeedwildlife. environmental damage. Off-road vehicletravelcausesvisualand roads. permitted onlyondesignatedpublic Motorized vehiclesandbicyclesare from camp. mile from anywatersource andwellaway Carry adiggingtrowel. Locatelatrines0.25 Human wasteisunsightlyandunsanitary. deep. Packouttoiletpaper. Bury humanwasteatleast6inches landscape. Minimize yourimpacttothenatural or cliff edge. structure, archeological site,drywash, least 100yards from anytrail,historical and outofsightfrom anyroad andat In openzones,campatleast0.5mile preserve experience. aquietwilderness Natural quietisaprotected resource; help backcountry campsites. Generator useisnotpermittedin area outlinedbyrocks, logs,orbrush. resource damagebycampingwithinthe When campinginadesignatedsiteprevent Camp withindesignatedsites. temporal watersources. areas surrounding springs,seeps,andother water quality. Minimizeyourimpactto bathing andwashingcanseriouslyimpact oils, skinlotions,andfoodresidues from that dependonthemforsurvival.Soaps, fragile andvitalfortheplantsanimals Desert watersources andspringsare water source. Camp atleast100yards from any and theirsurroundings isprohibited. Contaminating naturalwatersources enjoy. Leave parkfeatures intactforothersto feature orobjectisprohibited. Collecting anynaturalorhistorical marked trails. help prevent trailerosion bystayingon Although cross-country hikingisallowed, Do notcutswitchbacksontrails. and canattractpredators. Pets mayharmorbeharmedbywildlife, No petsontrailsorinthebackcountry. butts andtoiletpaper. packing outalltrashincludingcigarette Help preserve thepark’s naturalbeautyby Pack outalltrash. Mountains trails. use. Smokingisprohibited onallChisos a BBQgrill.Packoutallevidenceof Use onlygasstovesorcharcoal within prohibited. Groundfires andwoodfires are explosives isprohibited. Possession ofotherweapons,traps,or federal law. prohibited. Allwildlifeisprotected by Use ordischargeoffirearms is are enforced. resources ofyourpark;theseregulations You are responsible forprotecting the Backcountry Regulations Safety is Your Responsibility Motorcycles

Big Bend is wild and unfamiliar country to most visitors wildlife, or simply driving the scenic roads, let safety be yet it need not be dangerous. In fact, many people visit your constant companion. Spend a moment reviewing precisely because it is so remote and rugged. As you these common safety concerns. By giving forethought to enjoy the splendor of this great wilderness area, whether your actions you can have a safe, exciting, and rewarding hiking the highcountry, rafting the Rio Grande, observing experience in Big Bend National Park. J. AXEL Driving Hiking Desert Wildlife Of the few accidental deaths in Big Bend Exploring this desert and mountain country Black bears, javelinas, skunks, coyotes, and Share the Road that occur some years, most result from on foot requires both mental and physical raccoons frequent Big Bend’s campgrounds. Every year park rangers investigate car accidents. Drive within the speed limit, preparation. Trails vary from well maintained Although they sometimes appear tame, all of an increasing number of motorcycle 45 mph maximum in the park, and watch in the Chisos, to primitive and barely visible the animals in the park are wild, and could accidents. Unfortunately, a signifi cant for javelina, deer, and rabbits grazing along in the desert. Plan hikes within your ability. pose a threat to your health and safety if you number involve serious injuries. road shoulders, especially at night. Federal Take along a map and compass and know attempt to approach or feed them. Never regulations require that all occupants of a how to use them. Flash fl oods may occur feed any of Big Bend’s wildlife. To prevent Be alert vehicle wear seats belts while in a national following thunderstorms so avoid narrow these creatures from becoming habituated Animals may dart out from road edges. Other drivers may pay too much attention park. Remember, too, that you share the canyons or dry washes. Stay low and avoid to people, store all food, coolers, cooking to the scenery and cross over the center road with bicyclists and pedestrians. Some ridges during thunderstorms. Carry a utensils, and toiletries in a hard-sided line into your travel lane or may suddenly park roads, such as the road into the Chisos fl ashlight and a fi rst aid kit. Let someone vehicle, preferably in the trunk of your car. stop their vehicles in the middle of the Basin, are steep and winding and require know where you’re going and when you Food storage lockers are available for hikers road to observe wildlife. These and extra caution. The Basin Road is not expect to return. If you get hurt or lost, stay and campers in the Chisos Mountains. other unforeseen conditions can lead to recommended for RVs over 24 feet or trailers in one place to conserve water and energy. Dispose of garbage properly in the special motorcycle accidents. over 20 feet. Always select a designated animal-proof dumpsters and trash cans driver before drinking alcoholic beverages. Fire provided. Suggestions for Motorcycle Riding Fire danger is always an important safety Heat consideration in Big Bend. Wood or ground Remember to report all bear or mountain • Watch for vehicles straying over the center line. Desert heat can kill you. Carry and drink fi res are not permitted in the park, and you lion sightings to a ranger. at least one gallon of water per person, per must exercise caution when using gas • Stay alert for sudden stops or traffi c day. Wear a hat, long pants, long-sleeved stoves, charcoal grills, and cigarettes. During Swimming slow-downs, especially around scenic shirt, and sun screen when hiking. Springs drought conditions some restrictions may Hot weather makes the muddy Rio pullouts or other congested areas. are unreliable and often dry during much of apply to the use of these heat sources. Check Grande look very inviting, but swimming • Wear brightly colored clothing or jackets the year. Hike in the early morning or late with a ranger for the latest information about is not recommended. Water-borne micro- to increase visibility to other motorists. evening hours rather than during the heat of fi re safety in the park. Smoking is prohibited organisms and other waste materials can • Be aware of road surfaces as you ride. the day. on all trails in the Chisos Mountains. occur in the river and cause serious illness. Never over-ride the road conditions. The river can be hazardous, even in calm- Mountain Lions Poisonous Animals looking water. Strong undercurrents, deep • Watch for wildlife at the road edge. Big Bend is mountain lion country, especially Venomous snakes, scorpions, spiders, and holes, and shallow areas with sharp rocks • Secure your motorcycle and valuables the Chisos Mountains. While lion attacks centipedes are all active during the warmer and large tree limbs are common and make when you are away from your bike. the Rio Grande unsafe for swimming. If you are rare, two have occurred in the last twenty months. Wear shoes or boots at night instead • Ride with headlights on. years. Should you encounter an aggressive of sandals. Inspect shoes and sleeping bags do choose to swim, wear a life jacket and mountain lion, hold your ground, wave your or bedding before use and always carry a avoid alcohol. arms, throw stones, and shout. Never run. fl ashlight at night. While snake bites are rare, Keep groups together and consider hiking they usually occur below the knee or elbow. If you really want to swim, Balmorhea State elsewhere with young children if you come Pay attention to where you walk and where Park (three hours north of Big Bend) boasts across a special mountain lion warning sign you place your hands. the “world’s largest spring-fed swimming posted at a trailhead. pool.” Contact Balmorhea State Park at 432-375-2370 for more information.

Survive the Sun Weather and Climate

In all seasons, whether walking, backpacking, or day hiking, follow these tips to Weather How Hot Is It? conserve your internal water reserves: Elevational diff erences in Big Bend mean Average temperatures and rainfall at Panther Junction, elevation 3,750 feet temperatures can very dramatically REDUCE YOUR ACTIVITY between mountain, desert and river. The Avg. High/Low Avg. Rainfall” During the warmest days, generally from May through August, avoid hiking in the lower lower areas along the Rio Grande are very January 61/35 .46 elevations during the heat of the day—generally from 10:00am to 6:00pm. hot during summer months, while the Chisos Mountains are considerably cooler. February 66/34 .34 FIND SHADE Winter weather generally occurs between Shade in the desert means the difference between excessive heat gain from the radiant sun November and February, with temperatures March 77/45 .31 and sheer comfort. In an emergency, a person resting in the shade will survive longer than dropping signifi cantly as cold fronts move 81/52 .70 someone exposed to the sun. April through the area. Between June and October thunderstorms and fl ash fl oods may occur. May 88/59 1.50 DRINK YOUR WATER Don’t try to conserve the drinking water you have. Whether strolling in the Basin, or hiking the Bring clothing for both warm and cool June 94/66 1.93 South Rim Trail, you must DRINK your available water. Carry plenty of drinking water—at least weather, as well as rain gear, when visiting 93/68 2.09 1 gallon per person per day. Balance your food and water intake. Eat a salty snack every time Big Bend any time of the year. July

you take a drink of water. August 91/66 2.35 Summer and Fall REDUCE ALCOHOL & CAFFEINE INTAKE Temperatures along the river tend to be the September 86/62 2.12 Water is the best remedy for dehydration and listlessness. The diuretic effects of caffeine and warmest in the park. Plan your activities with October 79/53 2.27 alcohol can result in an accelerated loss of body water. the weather in mind; visit the river in the morning, and always carry plenty of water. November 66/42 .70 PROTECT YOUR BODY Higher elevations in the Chisos Mountains Our sensitive skin burns easily; it needs shade, sunscreen, sunglasses, a wide brimmed hat, and December 62/36 .57 lead to lower temperatures. July brings proper footwear. Dehydration is accelerated by exposed skin, so keep your clothing on. Wear Yearly Avg. 79/47 15.34” long-sleeved, loose-fi tting, light-colored clothes. thunderstorms; precipitation can liven up the landscape, but rains can reap havoc on the Temperatures in the Chisos Basin vary 5–10 primitive roads throughout the park. degrees lower, while daytime temperatures along ALL SPRING WATER MUST BE TREATED: BOIL IT OR USE PURIFICATION TABLETS the Rio Grande average 5–10 degrees warmer.

The Big Bend Paisano 15 Area Phone Numbers Park Overview Map For more details, use the official park map. Services inside the Park

EMERGENCY Call 911

National Park Service General Information 432-477-2251

Big Bend Natural History Association Booksales & Seminars 432-477-2236

Visitor Centers Castolon 432-477-2666 Chisos Basin 432-477-2264 Panther Junction 432-477-1158 Persimmon Gap 432-477-2393 Rio Grande Village 432-477-2271

U.S. Post Office Panther Junction 432-477-2238

Lodging / Restaurant Chisos Mountains Lodge 432-477-2291 877-386-4383 Park Gasoline Service Panther Junction (diesel) 432-477-2294 Rio Grande Village 432-477-2293

Campground Stores Rio Grande Village 432-477-2293 Chisos Basin 432-477-2291 Castolon 432-477-2222 Services outside the Park

Lodging Chisos Basin Lajitas 5401ft 1646m Lajitas Resort 877-525-4827

Marathon Gage Hotel 432-386-4205 Marathon Motel 432-386-4241 Eve’s Garden 432-386-4165

Study Butte/Terlingua area Big Bend Motor Inn 800-848-2363 Easter Egg Valley Motel 432-371-2254 El Dorado Motel 432-371-2111 Longhorn Ranch Hotel 432-371-2541 Ten Bits Ranch 866-371-3110

Camping Big Bend Motor Inn 800-848-2363 Big Bend Ranch State Park 432-424-3327 Big Bend Travel Park 432-371-2250 Heath Canyon Ranch 432-376-2235 Longhorn Ranch 432-371-2541 Stillwell’s Trailer Camp 432-376-2244 Study Butte RV Park 432-371-2468

Convenience Stores/Gasoline Big Bend Motor Inn 800-848-2363 Cottonwood General Store 432-371-3315 Study Butte Store 432-371-2231 Rio Grande Village Stillwell Store & Station 432-376-2244 1850ft 564m Terlingua Store 432-371-2487

Medical Services Terlingua Fire and EMS 911 Big Bend Medical Center 432-837-3447

Banks Quicksilver Bank/ATM 432-371-2211

Float Trip Outfitters/Rentals/Guide Services Big Bend River Tours 800-545-4240 Desert Sports 888-989-6900 Far Flung Outdoor Center 800-839-7238

Horseback Riding Big Bend Stables 800-887-4331 Lajitas Livery 432-424-3238

The facilities and services listed here are located within the greater Big Bend area, and vary from 30 to 100 miles from Big Bend National Park. The communities of Terlingua/Study Butte (30 miles west) and Marathon (70 miles north) offer basic services, including gas stations, restaurants, lodging, and campgrounds. Alpine, 100 miles to the northwest of the park, offers the greatest number of services.

This listing of local services is a courtesy to our visitors and implies no endorsement by the National Park Service or Big Bend National Park.

16 The Big Bend Paisano