Robert Kurelićrobert Gerhard Jaritz Supervisor: Budapest 2013 By

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Robert Kurelićrobert Gerhard Jaritz Supervisor: Budapest 2013 By Doctoral Dissertation EAGLE AND LION: Intergation, Immigration, and Conflict on the Istrian Frontier in the Sixteenth Century by Robert Kurelić Supervisor: Gerhard Jaritz Submitted to the Medieval Studies Department Central European University, Budapest in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosphy CEU eTD Collection Central European University Budapest 2013 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I owe my sincere gratitude to so many who have helped me during the long process of gestation of this dissertation. To the faculty of the Medieval Studies Department at CEU for all the support and encouragement, as well as the invaluable lessons in research methodology, to the Juraj Dobrila University in Pula, and especially Ivan Jurković whose project helped finance my archival work in Vienna and Venice, to Annabella Pál and Csilla Dobos, the pillars of our Deparment, without whom I would have been entirely lost, to Gerhard Jaritz whose continued advice and support helped steer me on the right path, to Judith A. Rasson and Alice M. Choyke who kept my work grammatically acceptable and to all my colleagues and friends who helped me learn and think in new ways in our endless debates both in and out of University. Most of all, I owe my gratitude to my mum for her unending patience and faith in me. CEU eTD Collection II TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................ 1 The Istrian Frontier ....................................................................................................................... 1 Overview of Istrian History........................................................................................................... 4 Istria in the Sixteenth Century ...................................................................................................... 7 Frontiers and Boundaries –Terminological Observation and Limitations ............................... 9 A Note Regarding Sources........................................................................................................... 10 CHAPTER I: THE TIES THAT BIND ....................................................... 12 Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 12 Shared language(s) ....................................................................................................................... 13 Local Administration ................................................................................................................... 16 Popular Beliefs .............................................................................................................................. 21 Boljun – A Case Study of “Austro-Venetian” Coöperation ..................................................... 26 History of Boljun .......................................................................................................................... 27 Parish Records .............................................................................................................................. 29 The Micro-hierarchy of Boljun ................................................................................................... 32 Kinship .......................................................................................................................................... 33 Fraternities ................................................................................................................................... 35 CEU eTD Collection The Belvederi Family – an Example of Cross Boundary Integration ..................................... 37 Juraj Matijašić – the Nexus of the Social Hierarchy ................................................................ 38 The Manzoni Connection ............................................................................................................ 40 “Enlightened Self-interest” ......................................................................................................... 43 III Conclusion ..................................................................................................................................... 46 CHAPTER II: NEW BLOOD ....................................................................... 48 Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 48 The Meaning of Morlak ............................................................................................................... 52 The Causes of Migration ............................................................................................................. 55 Morlak Traits ............................................................................................................................... 65 Morlak Migrations in Austrian Istria ........................................................................................ 69 Morlak Migrations in Venetian Istria ........................................................................................ 74 Honor, Crime and the Frontier ................................................................................................... 78 Justice ............................................................................................................................................ 87 Endurance of Morlak Customs ................................................................................................... 89 Economic Migrants at the End of the Century .......................................................................... 94 Conclusion ..................................................................................................................................... 98 CHAPTER III: WHAT DRIVES APART................................................. 100 Introduction ................................................................................................................................ 100 Role of the Boundary ................................................................................................................. 102 The Chamber of Boundaries ..................................................................................................... 107 Recurrent Nature of Disputes ................................................................................................... 113 CEU eTD Collection Memory and Intent .................................................................................................................... 115 The Macro/Micro Interaction ................................................................................................... 122 Boundary Disputes in Istria Before and After the War of the League of Cambrai ............. 129 “The Blame Game” .................................................................................................................... 136 IV Ecclesiastical Boundaries and the Frontier ............................................................................. 141 Rituals on the Frontier – Anatomy of Boundary Disputes in Sixteenth Century Istria ...... 147 The Economy of Boundary Disputes – Forests and Pastures ................................................. 159 The Valbona Dispute.................................................................................................................. 163 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................... 167 CONCLUSION............................................................................................. 169 BIBLIOGRAPHY ........................................................................................ 173 Primary Sources ......................................................................................................................... 173 Secondary Sources ..................................................................................................................... 177 ABBREVIATIONS ...................................................................................... 200 APPENDICES .............................................................................................. 201 Tables .......................................................................................................................................... 201 Maps ............................................................................................................................................ 204 Glossary ....................................................................................................................................... 209 Gazetteer of Place Names in and close to Istria ....................................................................... 214 CEU eTD Collection V LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Map 1: Istrian Peninsula (1535-1788)…………………………………. ………...209 Map 2: Exogamous Marriages in Boljun (1578-1610)………………………….. 210 Map 3: Morlak Migrations (1490-1564)…………………………………………. 211 Map 4: Roads and Communications in Istria…………………………………… 212 Map 5: The Valbona Dispute (1571-1574)…………………………………….....213 CEU eTD Collection VI INTRODUCTION The Istrian Frontier Frontiers are a fascinating phenomenon in human history. We often think of frontiers and boundaries as places where one imagined space ends and another begins. Wherever different ethnicities, cultures, religions or states meet, they result in
Recommended publications
  • Book of Abstracts
    BORDERS AND CROSSINGS TRAVEL WRITING CONFERENCE Pula – Brijuni, 13-16 September 2018 BOOK OF ABSTRACTS BORDERS AND CROSSINGS 2018 International and Multidisciplinary Conference on Travel Writing Pula-Brijuni, 13-16 September 2018 BOOK OF ABSTRACTS Published by Juraj Dobrila University of Pula For the Publisher Full Professor Alfio Barbieri, Ph.D. Editor Assistant Professor Nataša Urošević, Ph.D. Proofreading Krešimir Vunić, prof. Graphic Layout Tajana Baršnik Peloza, prof. Cover illustrations Joseph Mallord William Turner, Antiquities of Pola, 1818, in: Thomas Allason, Picturesque Views of the Antiquities of Pola in Istria, London, 1819 Hugo Charlemont, Reconstruction of the Roman Villa in the Bay of Verige, 1924, National Park Brijuni ISBN 978-953-7320-88-1 CONTENTS PREFACE – WELCOME MESSAGE 4 CALL FOR PAPERS 5 CONFERENCE PROGRAMME 6 ABSTRACTS 22 CONFERENCE PARTICIPANTS 88 GENERAL INFORMATION 100 NP BRIJUNI MAP 101 Dear colleagues, On behalf of the Organizing Committee, we are delighted to welcome all the conference participants and our guests from the partner institutions to Pula and the Brijuni Islands for the Borders and Crossings Travel Writing Conference, which isscheduled from 13th till 16th September 2018 in the Brijuni National Park. This year's conference will be a special occasion to celebrate the 20thanniversary of the ‘Borders and Crossings’ conference, which is the regular meeting of all scholars interested in the issues of travel, travel writing and tourism in a unique historic environment of Pula and the Brijuni Islands. The previous conferences were held in Derry (1998), Brest (2000), Versailles (2002), Ankara (2003), Birmingham (2004), Palermo (2006), Nuoro, Sardinia (2007), Melbourne (2008), Birmingham (2012), Liverpool (2013), Veliko Tarnovo (2014), Belfast (2015), Kielce (2016) and Aberystwyth (2017).
    [Show full text]
  • HRVATSKE ŽELJEZNICE VOZNI RED VLAKOVA BUZET - PULA Vrijedi Od 10
    HRVATSKE ŽELJEZNICE VOZNI RED VLAKOVA BUZET - PULA Vrijedi od 10. 12. 2017. god. do 08. 12. 2018. god. B r o j v l a k a KOLODVOR / stajalište 4701 4703 4705 1272/1274 4707 4709 4711 4713 4715 4717 Maribor (SŽ) ------- ------- ------- 7 03:25 7 05:48 ------- ------- ------- 11:50 ------- Ljubljana (SŽ) ------- ------- ------- 7 06:13 8 08:15 ------- ------- ------- 14:35 ------- Divača (SŽ) ------ ------ ------ ↓07:45 ↓ 09:55 ------ ------ ------ 16:12 ------ Hrpelje Kozina (SŽ) ------ ------ ------ ↓ 08:04↓ 10:09 ------ ------ ------ 16:20 ------ BUZET dol. ------- ------- ------- ↓08:46↓ 10:40 ------- ------- ------- 16:55 ------- BUZET odl. ------- 2 05:17 3 07:07 ↓09:04↓ 11:15 2 13:05 ------- 15:40 17:10 6 19:57 Nugla ------- ↓05:22 ↓07:12 ↓-------↓ 11:20 ↓13:10 ------- 15:45 17:15 ↓20:02 ROČ ------- ↓05:25 ↓07:15 ↓-------↓ 11:23 ↓13:13 ------- 15:48 17:18 ↓20:05 Ročko Polje ------- ↓05:33 ↓07:23 ↓-------↓ 11:31 ↓13:21 ------- 15:56 17:26 ↓20:13 LUPOGLAV ------- ↓05:37 ↓07:27 ↓09:22↓ 11:35 ↓13:25 ------- 16:00 17:30 ↓20:17 Zagreb odl. ------- ------- ------ ------- 06:30 ------- 08:12 ------- ------- 13:14 Rijeka dol. ------- ------- ------ ------- 10:07 ------- 12:31 ------- ------- 18:16 Rijeka odl. ------- ------- 4 05:55 ------- 10:25 ------- 1 14:25 ------- 5 15:45 19:30 Lupoglav dol. ------- ------- 4 06:35 ------- 11:05 ------- 1 15:05 ------- 5 16:25 20:10 LUPOGLAV 1 04:40 05:38 3 07:28 ↓09:23↓ 11:36 2 13:26 1 15:20 ------- 17:31 20:18 Hum u Istri ↓04:46 05:44 ↓07:34 ↓ ------↓ 11:42 ↓13:32 ↓15:26 ------- 17:37 20:24 BORUT ↓04:52 05:50 ↓07:40 ↓ ------↓ 11:48 ↓13:38 ↓15:32 ------- 17:44 20:30 CEROVLJE ↓04:57 05:55 ↓07:45 ↓ ------↓ 11:53 ↓13:43 ↓15:37 ------- 17:49 20:35 Novaki ↓05:00 05:58 ↓07:48 ↓ ------↓ 11:56 ↓13:46 ↓15:40 ------- 17:52 20:38 PAZIN dol.
    [Show full text]
  • Making Sense of Memory
    Copyright © Museum Tusculanums Press Making Sense of Memory Monuments and Landscape in Croatian Istria1 Jonas Frykman Frykman, Jonas 2003: Making Sense of Memory. Monuments and Landscape in Croatian Istria. – Ethnologia Europaea 33:2: 107–120. When the actual terror is over, how do you reconcile without trying to pay back? With the falling apart of Yugoslavia, past, suppressed injustices remerged and were frequently used to connect the present with bitter memories. In the ethnically diverse region of Istria, however, it has been difficult for any group to claim its interpretation of history to be superior to others. Seeking to explain the Istrian case and within it the role of the esuli, the article juxtaposes the material discourse represented by monuments with the workings of memory and the dynamics which jostle sleeping, hidden, or private memory into public discourse. It is argued that in Istria, the absence of an ethnic “master narrative,” and the coexistence of many different groups sharing the territory has been useful for keeping nightmarish memory of ethnic violence at bay. Instead, place has come to matter more than history. Within landscapes and monuments, experiences of terror and narratives of martyrdom find a resting place, however uneasy. Prof. Dr. Jonas Frykman, Dept. of Ethnology, University of Lund, Finngatan 8, SE-223 62 Lund. E-mail: [email protected] “Say a hawk came out of the blue and seized one Memory is not really what people recollect, of your chickens. What can you do? You can’t get but how they manage to make sense of the past.
    [Show full text]
  • A Unique Type of Archaic Oral Poetry
    Oral Tradition, 6/2 3 (1991): 200-224 Bugaršćice: A Unique Type of Archaic Oral Poetry Josip Kekez Historical and Geographical Defi nition In the context of oral literature, bugaršćice1 represent an important and unique genre in many respects. They are, among other things, striking proof that oral literature is not simply a discovery of the nineteenth century—as was long maintained in South Slavic regions—and that two literatures, oral and written, were in contact from the earliest times in a number of ways, including the manner of their recording and study. On the other hand, we would know nothing of the genre in question and its aesthetic values if interest in oral literature had not existed from the beginning; many passages in the early literature of Croatia would have forever remained obscure, while Croatian poetry of the present day would have assumed a different profi le. Scholars have not so far taken suffi cient account of the fact that the poetic system of the bugaršćica is distinctly indigenous and in many of its features remote from other verse forms of oral literature; nor is there evidence that it existed at any time or in any national community or setting other than those discussed below. Apart from one or two examples, all bugaršćice have been recorded on the eastern Adriatic strip from Istria in the north to the Gulf of Kotor in the south, so that they are geographically strictly defi ned. One poem was recorded on the western side of the Adriatic, in southern Italy, but it was sung in their own language by settlers from the eastern side of the Adriatic.
    [Show full text]
  • Liberty, Restriction, and the Remaking of Italians and Eastern European Jews
    "Liberty, Restriction, and the Remaking of Italians and Eastern European Jews, (1882-1965)" By Maddalena Marinari University of Kansas, 2009 B.A. Istituto Universitario Orientale Submitted to the Department of History and the Faculty of The Graduate School of the University Of Kansas in partial fulfillment of The requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy __________________________________________ Dr. Jeffrey Moran, Chair __________________________________________ Dr. Donna Gabaccia __________________________________________ Dr. Sheyda Jahanbani __________________________________________ Dr. Roberta Pergher __________________________________________ Dr. Ruben Flores Date Defended: 14 December 2009 The Dissertation Committee for Maddalena Marinari certifies that this is the approved version of the following dissertation: "Liberty, Restriction, and the Remaking of Italians and Eastern European Jews, (1882-1965)" Committee: __________________________________________ Dr. Jeffrey Moran, Chair __________________________________________ Dr. Donna Gabaccia __________________________________________ Dr. Sheyda Jahanbani __________________________________________ Dr. Roberta Pergher __________________________________________ Dr. Ruben Flores Date Approved: 14 December 2009 2 Table of Contents Introduction ……………………………………………………………………………………….3 Chapter 1: From Unwanted to Restricted (1890-1921) ………………………………………...17 Chapter 2: "The doors of America are worse than shut when they are half-way open:" The Fight against the Johnson-Reed Immigration
    [Show full text]
  • Kultura Emocija U Poetskom Diskursu Ane Katarine Frankopan Zrinske I Frana Krste Frankopana
    Kultura emocija u poetskom diskursu Ane Katarine Frankopan Zrinske i Frana Krste Frankopana Telešman, Marina Master's thesis / Diplomski rad 2019 Degree Grantor / Ustanova koja je dodijelila akademski / stručni stupanj: University of Zagreb, University of Zagreb, Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences / Sveučilište u Zagrebu, Filozofski fakultet Permanent link / Trajna poveznica: https://urn.nsk.hr/urn:nbn:hr:131:289844 Rights / Prava: In copyright Download date / Datum preuzimanja: 2021-09-23 Repository / Repozitorij: ODRAZ - open repository of the University of Zagreb Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences Sveučilište u Zagrebu Filozofski fakultet Odsjek za povijest DIPLOMSKI RAD Kultura emocija u poetskom diskursu Ane Katarine Frankopan Zrinske i Frana Krste Frankopana Studentica: Marina Telešman Mentorica: prof. dr. sc. Zrinka Blažević Zagreb, rujan 2019. SADRŽAJ: 1. Uvod .......................................................................................................................................................... 3 1.1 Tema istraživanja i istraživački ciljevi ................................................................................................ 3 1.2. Metodologija ...................................................................................................................................... 4 2. Literatura i izvori ................................................................................................................................... 5 2.1. Pregled i evaluacija literature .......................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • The Soil Environment for Tuber Magnatum Growth in Motovun Forest, Istria
    NAT. CROAT. VOL. 13 No 2 171¿185 ZAGREB June 30, 2004 original scientific paper / izvorni znanstveni rad THE SOIL ENVIRONMENT FOR TUBER MAGNATUM GROWTH IN MOTOVUN FOREST, ISTRIA GILBERTO BRAGATO1,BARBARA SLADONJA2 &ÐORDANO PER[URI]2 1Istituto Sperimentale per la Nutrizione delle Piante, Via Trieste 23, 34170 Gorizia, Italy 2Institut za poljoprivredu i turizam, Carla Huguesa 8, 52440 Pore~, Croatia Bragato, G., Sladonja, B. & Per{uri}, \.: The soil environment for Tuber magnatum growth in Motovun Forest, Istria. Nat. Croat., Vol. 13, No. 2, 171–185, 2004, Zagreb. The mixed oak forest located near the town of Motovun is a well-known white truffle (Tuber magnatum Pico) producing area of the Istria region. Motovun Forest covers a 900-ha area in the flu- vial plain of the Mirna River, which flows into the Adriatic Sea through a hilly landscape originat- ing in a sedimentary sequence of a Triassic-Eocene carbonatic platform and Eocene-Oligocene Flysch turbidites. T. magnatum production has been decreasing in the last 10 years and a study was specifically performed in an attempt to explain this. Productive soils of the valley bottom were compared with unproductive soils on the slopes, the latter being drier, thinner and more developed than the former. T. magnatum carpophores are not found all over the fluvial plain and Motovun Forest was further subdivided into productive, unproductive and occasionally productive areas. All soils of the valley bottom were thick and continuously rejuvenated by the frequent arrival of fine sediments from slopes, but only unproductive ones were characterized by water saturation in some periods of the year.
    [Show full text]
  • Republic of Croatia's Transport Development Strategy
    REPUBLIC OF CROATIA'S i TRANSPORT DEVELOPMENT STRATEGY INDEX OF CONTENTS 1. RAIL SECTOR .................................................................................................................... 1 1.1. Analysis ..................................................................................................................................... 1 1.1.1. Rail transport structure in the Republic of Croatia ................................................................ 1 1.1.2. Croatian rail network ............................................................................................................. 1 1.1.3. Present condition of the infrastructure ................................................................................. 5 1.1.4. Rail transport in Croatia ......................................................................................................... 8 1.2. List of hypothesis ....................................................................................................................16 1.3. SWOT Rail sector .....................................................................................................................17 2. ROAD SECTOR ................................................................................................................ 18 2.1. Analysis ...................................................................................................................................18 2.1.1. Croatia in the European Union ............................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Pro Honore, Utilitate Et Commodo: the Margraviate of Istria and the Market Privileges of the Aquileian Patriarch Bertrand De Saint-Geniès (1334-1350)
    Zavičajni muzej Poreštine – Museo del territorio parentino Sveučilište Jurja Dobrile u Puli – Filozofski fakultet Državni arhiv u Pazinu 8. ISTARSKI POVIJESNI BIENNALE Artisani et mercatores: o obrtnicima i trgovcima na jadranskom prostoru Zbornik radova s međunarodnog znanstvenog skupa održanog u Poreču od 11. do 13. svibnja 2017. Nakladnik Zavičajni muzej Poreštine – Museo del territorio parentino Decumanus 9 52440 Poreč Sunakladnici Sveučilište Jurja Dobrile u Puli Filozofski fakultet Zagrebačka 30 52100 Pula Državni arhiv u Pazinu Vladimira Nazora 3 52000 Pazin Za nakladnika Elena Uljančić Za sunakladnike Alfio Barbieri Mirela Mrak Glavne urednice Marija Mogorović Crljenko Elena Uljančić Uredništvo zbornika Gaetano Benčić, Danijela Doblanović Šuran, Marija Mogorović Crljenko, Davor Munda, Elena Poropat Pustijanac, Elena Uljančić Znanstveni odbor skupa Miroslav Bertoša, Neven Budak, Danijela Doblanović Šuran, Jakov Jelinčić, Ivan Matejčić, Robert Matijašić, Marija Mogorović Crljenko, Elvis Orbanić, Elena Poropat Pustijanac, Tajana Ujčić, Elena Uljančić Recenzenti doc. dr. sc. Tonija Andrić, dr. sc. Maja Katušić Tajnica uredništva Jasna Grgić Lektori Vanessa Vitković Marčeta, hrvatski jezik, Nelida Milani Kruljac, talijanski jezik Aleksandra Gačić, slovenski jezik, Danijela Bilić Rojnić, engleski jezik Prijevod sažetaka na engleski jezik Danijela Bilić Rojnić Korektura Eda Vlahov Grafičko oblikovanje i priprema Alfio Klarić Naklada 500 primjeraka Realizacija Sv. German, Pula Tisak Grafomark, Zagreb Objavljivanje Zbornika omogućili su:
    [Show full text]
  • Prvotisak Elegije Frana Krste Frankopana Iz 1656. Godine FLUMINENSIA, God
    Saša Potočnjak, Prvotisak Elegije Frana Krste Frankopana iz 1656. godine FLUMINENSIA, god. 30 (2018), br. 2, str. 7-28 7 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. Ovaj rad dostupan je za upotrebu pod međunarodnom licencom Creative Commons Attribution 4.0. https://doi.org/10.31820/f.30.2.1 Saša Potočnjak PRVOTISAK ELEGIJE FRANA KRSTE FRANKOPANA IZ 1656. GODINE* (Querimoniae piae, Macerata, 1656.) dr. sc. Saša Potočnjak, Filozofski fakultet, [email protected], Rijeka izvorni znanstveni članak UDK 821.163.42.09Frankopan, F. K.-1 rukopis primljen: 15. 10. 2018; prihvaćen za tisak: 15. 11. 2018. U popularizaciji je kulta crne Madone Trsatske odnosno Loretske bila ključna uloga feudalnih gospodara Frankopana. Njezino je štovanje osobiti izraz zadobilo u 17. st. u Elegiji Frana II. Krste Frankopana Tržačkoga, kojega su na naslovnici II. latinsko-talijanskoga izdanja Divoto pianto (Loreto, 1794) priređivači titulirali grofom Trsatskim (Perpetuo Conte di Tersatto), a kako bi se istaknula veza između roda Frankopana i Trsatskoga svetišta. Osobiti je prilog radu potvrda o postojanju sačuvanoga primjerka prvoga izdanja Elegije: Franciscus Christophorus comes de Frangipanibus, Querimoniae piae (Macerata, 1656), koja je dosad bila poznata jedino prema prijepisu i prijevodu tiskanom u 18. stoljeću. Postojanje prvotiska moguće jedina Frankopanova za života tiskanoga djela potvrđeno je 2018. godine u Italiji (Recanati, Biblioteca diocesana p. C. Benedettucci; Perugia, Biblioteca Comunale Augusta). Ključne riječi: Frankopani, B. Kašić, F. Glavinić, Trsat, Loreto, crna Madona, franjevci, Blaženi plač * Ovaj je rad sufinancirala Hrvatska zaklada za znanost projektom UIP-2017-05-6356 Ars lignea: drvorezbarska umjetnička baština sjevernog Jadrana od 1300.
    [Show full text]
  • North-Western Istria the Mediterranean World of Flavour Contents
    North-western Istria The Mediterranean World of Flavour Contents North-western Istria Gourmand’s Paradise 4 Gastronomic Pulse of the Region Something for Everyone 6 Food and Wine Itineraries Routes of Unforgettable Flavours 12 Istria Wine & Walk. Gastronomic manifestation. 20 Calendar of Events In the Feisty Rhythm of Tasty Food 21 Calendar of Pleasures 24 Package Tours Tailored Experiences 26 Information and Contacts 27 North-western Istria Gourmand’s Paradise Croatia Istria North-western Istria Just like a magic chest, north-western Easily accessible from a num- The heart-shaped Istria is easily reached The truffle, considered by many the king Istria abounds with untouched natural from all European cities. This largest of the world gastronomy and ascribed beauties, small architectural wonders ber of European countries, Adriatic peninsula is situated in the west- aphrodisiac characteristics and exceptional and a luxurious spectrum of colours, north-western Istria inspires ernmost part of Croatia, at the junction of culinary power, grows here. Except on the tastes and flavours. the quest for the culinary Central Europe and the Mediterranean. truffle, the Istrian cuisine also relies on home-made pasta, fish and seafood, sea- A curious visitor will find everything legacy of former generations. The north-western part of Istria welcomes sonal vegetables, home-made prosciutto required for a relaxed or active holiday, Visitors can choose from a all travellers offering them the hospital- and cheese and a variety of wild herbs. in the perfect blend of tradition and ity of the seaside towns of Umag and contemporary tourist needs. wide variety of specialities – Novigrad and picturesque inland towns of The rich variety of food is contributed from the modern Istrian sushi Buje and Brtonigla.
    [Show full text]
  • Hidden Istria
    source: hidden europe 40 (summer 2013) text and pictures © 2013 Rudolf Abraham FEATURE www.hiddeneurope.co.uk Hidden Istria by Rudolf Abraham osip Zanelli walks slowly with me through Draguć is one of the most photogenic locations the lush grass in front of his stone house to anywhere in this corner of Croatia. J the diminutive Church of Sveti Rok, on the Vineyards spill down the hillside towards a edge of the village of Draguć. This little com- lake to the west called Butoniga jezero. The water 22 munity in Istria was once an important centre for is framed by a double rainbow that comes and the cultivation of silkworms, though nowadays it goes as rain clouds slowly give way to sunshine. is a quiet, little-visited place with fewer than 70 Standing in the small porch of the church, Josip inhabitants. It deserves to be in the limelight, for unlocks the old wooden door with a large key, and waves me inside to look at the cycle of 16th- A: Josip Zanelli unlocks the Church of Sveti Rok at Dragu. The church is famous for its cycle of 16th-century century frescoes which decorate the walls of its frescoes (photo by Rudolf Abraham). simple, dimly lit interior — an Adoration of the hidden europe 40 summer 2013 Trieste S Piran Sale Žejane Buzet Paladini Dragu Opatija Rijeka R : Istria in context. Our map shows historic Istria in its Pore entirety from the Golfo di Trieste to the southern tip of the Beram Istrian peninsula. Places mentioned in the text are marked Šunjevica on the map (map scale 1:1,000,000).
    [Show full text]