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UNIVERSITY OF CINCINNATI Date:___________________ I, _________________________________________________________, hereby submit this work as part of the requirements for the degree of: in: It is entitled: This work and its defense approved by: Chair: _______________________________ _______________________________ _______________________________ _______________________________ _______________________________ The Role of Wine Production in the Changing Structure of an Island Economy: A Case Study of Santorini Greece A thesis submitted to Division of Research and Advanced Studies of the University of Cincinnati in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF COMMUNITY PLANNING School of Planning College of Design, Architecture, Art, and Planning May 13, 2005 By Curt Christopher Freese B.A. History, University of Cincinnati, 2001 Thesis Committee Chair: Michael Romanos, Ph.D. Member: Carla Chifos, Ph. D. Reader: Wayne Durrill, Ph. D. History Abstract: The inspiration for this thesis arose out of a summer spent in 2004 on the island of Santorini as part of the University of Cincinnati’s Sustainable Development Program. While on this enchanting island, this author couldn’t help but notice the oddly beautiful vineyards that were growing in soil that looked no different from the surface of the moon, nor indulge in a few glasses of wine produced from grapes grown under the incessant pounding heat of a hundred-degree sun. Much to my surprise, the wine had a most fascinating taste unlike anything I had never experienced before. Yet, as the days passed on the island, and I took in more sights of its interesting vineyards on terraces or on hills, and I experienced more of its wine. I became quite shocked with what I witnessed and tasted. Acres and acres of vineyards lay untended with Hotels and Rental rooms built amongst them, and a vast majority of the terraces were crumbling. I also soon unfortunately discovered most of the wine produced on Island was no better than swill. What was wrong? Why were these vineyards not producing the amazing and delicious Vin Santo? And finally, the most important question, what can be done to save the vineyards? This thesis is in direct response to these questions. The hypothesis is that wine, which historically has been a major product and source of income for the island, can once again become an important economic sector. To explore how this change can occur, two successful models were selected for inspiration and comparison to the present-day Santorini wine industry to suggest new wine scenarios. And the rich history, wines and viticulture of the island was reviewed and analyzed to develop a new wine-marketing strategy based on the uniqueness of Santorini. Acknowledgments This thesis grew out of a memorable summer as part of the 2004 University of Cincinnati Sustainable Development Program in Santorini. I would like to thank the leaders of the program, especially Prof. Michael Romanos and Prof. Carla Chifos, for leading me down the right path. I would also like to thank The Municipality of Thira and Mayor Angelos Roussos for being so gracious and putting us up for the summer. Without the help of many of my colleagues, I would never have completed this thesis. Thus, thanks to the talented Michael Steele for creating many of the maps. The wonderful Hayfaa Wadih for her knowledge and expertise of Santorini and tourism. Andy Meyer for his many pictures and ideas. The lovely Yana Yablonovskaya for offering her time and putting up with me while formatting my rather lengthy thesis. And finally, thanks to my family and their unwavering support. Table of Contents CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION............................................................................1 1.1 Purpose of the Study................................................................................................... 1 1.2 Focus of the Study....................................................................................................... 2 1.3 Problem Statement...................................................................................................... 3 1.4 Methodology ................................................................................................................ 5 1.5 Outline of the Thesis ................................................................................................... 8 CHAPTER 2: ECONOMIC HISTORY OF SANTORINI’S WINE INDUSTRY .....10 2.1 The Early Minoan History ....................................................................................... 10 2.2 Wine History from the Great Eruption to the Roman Empire ............................ 12 2.3 Byzantine to Venetian Times ................................................................................... 14 2.4 The Wine Industry from the 17th century to 1821.................................................. 17 2.4.1 Santorini in the 17thcentury.................................................................................. 18 2.4.2 Santorini in the 18th Century............................................................................... 19 2.4.3 Wine Market 16th-18th Century............................................................................ 21 2.4.4 Change in Wine Market....................................................................................... 24 2.5 Wine from 1821-1880’s............................................................................................. 26 2.5.1 Changes in the World Wine Market .................................................................... 26 2.5.2 Production............................................................................................................ 28 2.5.3 Rise of High Quality Estate Wine........................................................................ 29 2.5.4 Santorini, 1821-Late 19th Century ....................................................................... 30 2.5.5 Rise of Shipping................................................................................................... 31 2.5.6 Quality/Transport................................................................................................. 31 2.6 Wine from the Late 19th Century to 1956............................................................... 34 2.6.1 Phylloxera ............................................................................................................ 34 2.6.2 Government Intervention and World War ........................................................... 35 2.6.3 Transportation...................................................................................................... 36 2.6.4 The Santorini Economy From the Late 19th Century to 1956.............................. 37 2.6.5 Resurgence of Santorini Wine from World War I to 1956.................................. 43 2.7 The World Wine Market 1956-Present Day........................................................... 44 2.7.1 Quality/Modernization......................................................................................... 45 2.7.2 Marketing............................................................................................................. 47 2.7.3 Santorini 1956-Present Day ................................................................................. 48 2.7.3 The Rise of Tourism as the Dominant Economic Sector..................................... 49 2.7.4 The Wine Industry ............................................................................................... 51 2.7.5 Production/Quality............................................................................................... 51 2.7.5 Appellation of Origin........................................................................................... 53 2.7.6 Production............................................................................................................ 54 2.8 Wine History Findings.............................................................................................. 55 CHAPTER 3: THE WINE OF SANTORINI TODAY............................................58 3.1 Viticulture.................................................................................................................. 58 3.2 Santorini’s Grape Varietals ..................................................................................... 68 3.2.1 Assyrtiko.............................................................................................................. 70 3.2.2 Athiri.................................................................................................................... 73 3.2.3 Aidani................................................................................................................... 76 3.2.4 Mandilaria............................................................................................................ 77 3.2.5 Mavrotragano....................................................................................................... 78 3.3 The Wines of Santorini............................................................................................. 79 3.3.1 Vin Santo ............................................................................................................. 79 3.3.2 Red Vin Santo—Nama/Mezzo ............................................................................ 81 3.3.3 Mezzo................................................................................................................... 82 3.3.4 Red Table Wines.................................................................................................
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