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The Essential Guide to Paris

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The Essential Guide to Paris Insiders’ Guide The VERANDA NON-GUIDE to PARIS THERE IS SUCH A THING AS THE ART OF DOING NOTHING— and it is both elegant and enlightening. Such was the ruling sentiment of the 10 designers, shop owners, and bona fide bons vivants we asked to show us the best of the city today. Almost all endorsed Parisians’ mastery of just being: losing yourself in literature, conversation, architecture, even a game of pétanque in front of a park bench. It’s a spirit as essential to the city as the Seine. Here, how to embrace the riches of Paris, joyfully PHOTOGRAPH BY ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG/TRUNK ARCHIVE. TAYLOR-YOUNG/TRUNK ALISTAIR BY PHOTOGRAPH 58 VERANDA WRITTEN AND PRODUCED BY Ellen McGauley Insiders’ Guide NAVIGATING THE HOUR OF L’APÉRO... ...LIKE A PRO “It’s the best hour of the Jardin du Coulée Luxembourg Verte day, no?” asks Stéphane Olivier of France’s l’apéro, that sacred interlude before meals marked by PLEIN AIR PARIS slow-sipping aperitifs and dulcet discourses. “It is (Psst. It’s the best one.) a way to end the working moment and reach friends SPEND AN HOUR TAKE THE AFTERNOON or clients in a more social atmosphere.” Purists “…strolling the quays and crossing “... and explore the glorious Jardin du remind that it’s a communal the Pont des Arts. Now that the city has Luxembourg. I always loved taking affair, low-alcohol sips cleared the padlocks that covered the my kids to see the guignols [puppet like Lillet Blanc or Dolin bridge, there is no better place shows] and stopping for a crêpe at the vermouth are standard, to take in the beauty of Paris.” adorable lunch kiosk in the center.” and, as Olivier suggests, —JAMIE CREEL —PENNY DRUE BAIRD extending it well into the night is always on the table. “…sitting on a bench in the garden of “... to visit Parc Monceau, built by a Palais Royal. It’s like a secret in the cen- cousin of Louis XVI and surrounded by ter of everything: the Louvre, the Place late 19th-century mansions—pure belle Vendôme, the opera...” —STÉPHANE OLIVIER epoque Paris.” —FRANK DE BIASI “….walking the elevated viaduct “…and ramble aimlessly in the Jardin at Coulée Verte, which is the old des Plantes, founded as a retreat for Vincennes railway line. Peer botanical studies 400 years ago. It has between buildings, and enjoy the this Old World feeling in the middle of open sections’ expansive views.” the city. My favorite section is the allée —LOUIS ALBERT DE BROGLIE of the Cedar of Lebanon.” —LISA FINE MISS YOUR RESERVATION “No Michelin star restaurant can beat a picnic by the Seine. Head to the Épicerie at Le Bon Marché and pick up an array of cheeses, baguettes, olives, and a bottle of wine, L’apero in Montmartre then find a spot on the banks of the river—the ultimate Parisian dinner.”—KATHRYN IVEY JOHNSON, KENT KAREL STEPHEN BALAS, LEFT), (FROM PORTRAITS IMAGES; CAFE, GETTY PARISIAN PHOTO; STOCK SOMA/ALAMY VERT, COULÉE IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO; GETTY LUXEMBOURG, DU JARDIN MAX KIM-BEE. THOMAS, DYLAN OLIVIER, STÉPHANE OF BEHALF ON STRUBEL SALAZAR, ALFREDO NATHALIE DANTAN, MARC AMBRIDGE, BRITTANY GOW, AND CREEL OF COURTESY WOOD, BRETT 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 OUR INSIDERS: 1. Dorothée Meilichzon, modern hospitality décoratrice. 2. Frank de Biasi, designer and entertaining impresario. 3. Lisa Fine, global textiles artist. 4. Jamie Creel, curios connoisseur and gallerist. 5. Penny Drue Baird, designer and author of On Interior Design. 6. Louis Albert de Broglie, gallerist and author of A Parisian Cabinet of Curiosities. 7. Kathryn Ivey, designer and doyenne of antiques markets. 8. Stéphane Olivier, Saint-Germain-des-Prés antiques dealer and designer. 9. Ariane Dalle, Manuel Canovas design director. 10. Thomas Pheasant, designer and author of Simply Serene. 60 VERANDA Insiders’ Guide In the Market? Always. The “I Don’t Do Breakfast” Marché aux Puces is still the best spot for scoring anything from Bauhaus chairs to English porcelain. But it’s an even better place to chill out. Guide to Eggs and Coffee It’s been more than a century since the IT’S NOT THE INTERNET. “When I go Such are the words of Dorothée Meilichzon*, echoing the sentiment of so Paris Flea Market began to take shape in without an objective, I find exactly what many Parisians for whom heavy breakfasts are not in their cultural repertoire. Saint-Ouen, on the northern outskirts of I’ve been looking for for ages. Let the And yet, “eggs and coffee” are part of their epicurean DNA—before noon the city. And though it’s the largest in the market unfold before you.” or not. These are the petit dejeuner haunts our insiders swear by. world, the true treasures lie in the sensory THE FRENCH ARE STORYTELLERS. experience of its mellow microculture, “Curiosity is a qualifier for sellers. You Café Antonia “Best says Paris-based designer Kathryn Ivey. eggs Benedict and Rue Mallet- are more likely to go home with some- coffee in Paris.” Stevens “My favorite sight is during lunch hour thing for a good price if the vendors feel —FRANK DE BIASI Claus Paris “Be sure to when the sellers pull small card tables lebristolparis.com like you’re taking the story with it too.” get the clafoutis with together and share lunch spreads of meats, LIVE LIKE ham and goat cheese.” Fragments “Amaz- cheeses, breads, and goblets of wine. I love MUST LOVE DOGS. “There’s a collegial —KATHRYN IVEY ing oat milk MODERNIST A LOCAL clausparis.com cappuccino!” that their meal rhythms don’t change even spirit among the vendors and always small MOMENT SCRAP THE HOTEL, says Frank de —ARIANE DALLE if it pulls them away from a sale.” Read on dogs lounging in the sun by their owners’ @fragmentsparis for Ivey’s insight into getting the most out feet. It’s a great way to strike up a conver- Biasi, and rent a chic apartment. “Walk rue Mallet-Stevens of Saint-Ouen—with zero hustle. sation.” marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com “You’re not going to have a dinner Carrette “I love to get lost in its namesake the varieties of party in a hotel, after all. A rental Café de Flore “A second architect’s work. All five scrambled eggs in an area that’s close to open-air home for me—best oeuf and the little paté mansions have cubist à la coque and café crème markets is a much better way to feuilletée served Hotel Montalembert “It volumes of varied propor- in the city.” —JAMIE CREEL immerse yourself in the city. Plus, alongside them.” reminds me of my grand- cafedeflore.fr tions and are finished meeting people in the building —PENNY DRUE BAIRD mother’s house, where the 011-33-1-47-27- chef could make about in white plaster, graced makes for lively conversation and 98-85 365 egg dishes!” —LOUIS with large windows, and *PS: You can find Meilichzon stocking up on feels less transient, more personal. ALBERT DE BROGLIE hotel surmounted by rooftop The 1st and 2nd arrondissements montalembert-paris.com salmon, cheeses, and patisserie at Taka & Vermo for lunch at home with friends. 011-33-1-48-24-89-29 terraces.” —ARIANE DALLE near rue Montorgueil have markets open daily—a great foodie neigh- borhood. Opt for a low floor to get classic soaring ceilings or a high floor for beautiful Parisian light.” WHERE TO LINGER Marché OVER A TABLE... aux Puces ….all afternoon or well into the evening THREE MORE LEISURELY TREASURE HUNTS FOR EIFFEL GAZING: FOR WATCHING THE CHEFS: The terrace at Girafe Semilla semillaparis.com Drouot • “It’s like France’s Decour Décoration • Artcurial • “This auction girafeparis.com —LOUIS ALBERT DE BROGLIE attic. One of the oldest “An appointment-only house and shop is in a —FRANK DE BIASI auction houses in the shop reputed to have beautiful building and FOR COMMITTING TO A world, the best place to the best upholstery great for exploring exhi- FOR YOUR GRANDMOTHER’S SOUFFLÉ: Le Récamier CUISINE: L’ami Jean lerecamier.com source anything from the in the world—to see bitions of upcoming sales, WHEN YOU DO BOOK A ROOM…. lamijean.fr —LISA FINE —PENNY DRUE BAIRD contemporary to the the workshop is a from art and furniture to “Hôtel Relais Christine has been prehistoric, and a great true revelation.” vintage Hermès hand- recently renovated, and it’s like a FOR JAZZ SUNDAYS: FOR LEFT BANK SHOPPING way to pass the day.” 011-33-1-53-65-17-60 bags.” www.artcurial.com little jewel box.” relais-christine.com Bar Josephine hotel BREAKS: Sense Eat Girafe Bar Josephine drouot.com —JAMIE CREEL —LISA FINE —THOMAS PHEASANT —KATHRYN IVEY STOCK JANNSEN/ALAMY BRIAN ROSA; CHAIRS, SHUTTERSTOCK/GIGI TEACUPS, ARCHIVE; INTERIOR UPTON/THE SIMON APARTMENT, IMAGES. LONDON/BRIDGEMAN LTD., ART FINE LEFEVRE © LUMIÈRES, DES BIELSA; L’ATELIER CHRISTOPHE RELAIS CHRISTINE, PHOTO; BAR GIRAFE; OF COURTESY TERRACE GIRAFE IMAGES; GETTY VIA VIOLLET ROGER MALLET-STEVENS, RUE IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO. GETTY COMMERCE, DE BOURSE IMAGES; SAKUTIN/GETTY DE STEPHANE JOSEPHINE, lutetia.com —KATHRYN IVEY senseeat.fr —THOMAS PHEASANT ← L’ATELIER DES LUMIÈRES, a digital PALAIS GALLIERA, partnering with BOURSE DE COMMERCE—PINAULT COLLECTION, → LA FAB, couturier Agnes b.’s NEW + NOW art center in a former smelting plant Chanel for a permanent exhibition gallery a new contemporary art museum and landmark restoration new permanent gallery ◆ ◆ ◆ February 2020; atelier-lumieres.com 2020; palaisgalliera.paris.fr June 2020; boursedecommerce.fr December 2019; fondsagnesb.co “The 2020 program features artists “The reopening in 2020 will come with “Private museums of a large “I’m a big fan of the Punta “The new gallery will include more than The exhibits, eateries, of the Mediterranean like Monet, a new exhibition space in the vaulted magnitude are very recent della Dogana in Venice, 5,000 works and highlight social and and atelier openings on Renoir, and Chagall, along with Yves basement that will double the size of this in France....It’s extremely so having one in my own solidarity issues, which brings so much Klein, focusing on his iconic blue.” fashion museum.
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