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Home , Carya cordiformis, Lindera benzoin, Ostrya virginiana, Oxydendrum, Quercus marilandica, Quercus shumardii

Duke Forest Common Guide

For Field Assistants 2014

Christopher Payne University of

At Chapel Hill SPEC ScientificName CommonName MAGR Magnolia grandiflora Southern Magnolia ACBA Acer barbatum Southern Sugar Maple MASP Malus sp. Apple, Crabapple ACER Acer sp. Maple MATR Magnolia tripetala Umbrella‐Tree ACNE Acer negundo Boxelder MORU Morus rubra var. rubra Red Mulberry ACRU Red Maple NYSY Blackgum ACSA Sugar Maple OSVI virginiana var. virginiana Hophornbeam AESY Aesculus sylvatica Painted Buckeye OXAR arboreum Sourwood AIAL Ailanthus altissima Tree Of Heaven PATO Paulownia Paulownia ALJU Albizia julibrissin Silktree PIEC Pinus echinata Shortleaf Pine ARSP Aralia spinosa Devil's Walkingstick PINU Pinus sp. Pine ASPA Asimina parviflora Smallflower Pawpaw PITA Pinus taeda Loblolly Pine ASTR Pawpaw PIVI Pinus virginiana Virginia Pine BENI Betula nigra River Birch PLOC Platanus occidentalis American Sycamore CACA Carya carolinae‐septentrionalis South. Shagbark POAL Populus alba White Poplar CACO Bitternut Hickory PRAM Prunus americana American Plum CACR American Hornbeam PRAN Prunus angustifolia var. angustifolia Chickasaw Plum CADE Castanea dentata American Chestnut PRSE Black Cherry CAGL Pignut Hickory PYMA Pyrus/malus sp. Pear, Apple, Crabapple CAOL Carya ovalis Red Hickory QUAL White CAOV Shagbark Hickory QUCO var. coccinea Scarlet Oak CAPA Carya pallida Sand Hickory QUER Quercus sp. Oak CAPU Castanea pumila var. pumila Chinkapin QUFA Southern Red Oak CARY Carya sp. Hickory QUFP Q. falcata var. pagodifolia CATO Carya alba Mockernut Hickory QULY Quercus lyrata Overcup Oak CECA var. canadensis Eastern Redbud QUMA Blackjack Oak CEOC Celtis occidentalis Common Hackberry QUMI Quercus michauxii Swamp Chestnut Oak CHVI Chionanthus virginicus White Fringetree QUNI Water Oak COAL Cornus alternifolia Alternateleaf Dogwood QUPH Willow Oak COAM Corylus americana American Hazelnut COFL Cornus Flowering Dogwood QUPR Quercus montana COST Cornus foemina Stiff Dogwood QURG Quercus sect. Lobatae CRAT Crataegus sp. Hawthorn QURU Northern Red Oak CRCR Crataegus crus‐galli Cockspur Hawthorn QUSH Q. shumardii var. shumardii Shumard Oak CRFB Crataegus flabellata Fanleaf Hawthorn QUST Post Oak CRFL Crataegus flava Yellowleaf Hawthorn QUVE Black Oak CRMA Crataegus marshallii Parsley Hawthorn QUWG Quercus sect. Quercus DIVI Diospyros virginiana Common Persimmon RHCA Rhododendron catawbiense Catawba Rosebay FAGR Fagus grandifolia American Beech RHNU Rhododendron nudiflorum FRAX Fraxinus sp. Ash ROPS Robinia pseudoacacia Black Locust GLTR Gleditsia triacanthos Honeylocust SAAL Sassafras HAVI American Witchhazel SAHU Salix humilis Prairie Willow ILAM Ilex ambigua Carolina Holly ULAL Ulmus alata Winged Elm ILDE Ilex decidua Possumhaw ULAM American Elm ILOP Ilex opaca var. opaca American Holly ULMU Ulmus sp. Elm JUNI Black Walnut ULRU Slippery Elm JUVI Juniperus virginiana Eastern Redcedar VAAR Vaccinium arboreum Farkleberry KALA Mountain Laurel VIBR sp. Viburnum LIBE benzoin Northern Spicebush LIST Liquidambar styraciflua Sweetgum VIPR Viburnum prunifolium Blackhaw LITU Liriodendron tulipifera Tuliptree VIRA Viburnum rafinesquianum Downy Arrowwood

Opposite Leaved : [MAD Horse] Simple: Maple (Acer), Dogwood (Cornus) Compound: Ash (Fraxinus), Horsechestnut (Aesculus) : Viburnum spp. ACRU – Acer rubrum (Red maple)

Opposite, typically 3-lobed (1-2-3, R-E-D), leaves serrated; often smooth on younger trees Grey bark

ACBA – Acer barbatum (Southern sugar maple)

Opposite; 5 (sometimes 3) major lobes with ridges, but otherwise smooth on edge (no teeth); white-hairy beneath White bark

A. saccharum (Sugar Maple) are larger & undersides are glabrous

COFL – (Flowering dogwood)

Leaves: deep ribbing, roundish, ‘drip-tip’ Bark: cobblestone / mosaic bumpy / scaly

FRAX – Fraxinus spp. (Ash) White Ash =F. americana; Green Ash = F. pennsylvanica  White ______ Opposite; compound leaves, Green Light, often corky (deeply ridged) bark ↙ ↘

F. americana: undersides glaucous; often ovate (rounder too); lateral within U-shaped scar F. pennsylvanica: undersides Not glaucous; bud is above leaf scar

AESY – Aesculus sylvatica (Painted buckeye)

Opposite; Palmately compound leaves Typically shrub-size in Duke Forest

VIAC – Viburnum acerfolium (Maple leaf viburnum)

Opposite Leaf: often maple-like appearance, but fuzzy Black

VIPR – Viburnum prunifolium (Cherry leaf viburnum)

Cherry-like leaf appearance, but OPPOSITE Dull green leaves vs. glossy top/gland-tipped hairs on bottom of V. rufidulum leaves

VIRA – Viburnum rafinesquianum (Downy arrowwood)

Opposite Leaf: deep ribs, coarse teeth, hairy below [Viburnum dentatum has longer petioles] Black fruit

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Oaks QUAL – Quercus alba (White oak)

Leaf: rounded, smooth lobes Bark: Very light grey; flaking appearance when mature

QUST – Quercus stellata (Post oak)

Leaf: cross shape, green above with scattered stellate pubescence, pubescent and paler below.

QUFA – Quercus falcata (Southern red oak)

Leaf: Hairy on both sides (hair rubs off); inconsistent & sometimes amorphous leaves Typical shade leaf = ‘southern bell’ (bell shaped, 3 lobes) Leaves have bristles at ends

QURU– Quercus rubra (Northern red oak)

Leaves: long, many lobes, pointy lobes with bristles at ends, lobes NOT deeply cut Bark: ridges that appear to have shiny stripes down the center

QUVE – Quercus velutina (Black oak)

SHADE Leaf: variable shape, very shallow sinuses, lustrous shiny green above, paler with scruffy pubescence and axillary tufts below Leaf: Bristle tipped lobes, deep notches, top is shiny deep green, bottom is yellowish-brown. Clumps of stellate hairs on bottom. Bark: At first gray and smooth, becoming thick and very rough, nearly black and deeply furrowed vertically with horizontal breaks; short plates on bark (similar to Q. coccinea) Less Common : QUPH = Q. phellos (Willow oak) , CUCO = Q. coccinea (Scarlet oak), QUMA = Q. marilandica (Blackjack Oak), QUMI = Q. michauxii (Swamp Chestnut Oak), QUSH = Q. shumardii (Shumard Oak), QULY = Q. lyrata (Overcup Oak)

Hickories CACO – Carya cordiformis (Bitternut hickory)

(7-)9 leaflets (sometimes 5-11) Sulfur-yellow , not particularly fragrant leaves Clustered grey spots located along edge of backside of leaf base Bark: much tighter than on most , lacking significant ridges and not peeling off in strips Bottomland forests

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Hickories CACA – Carya carolinae‐septentrionalis (Southern shagbark hickory)

5-7 leaflets, terminal leaflet 2-5 (-6) cm wide thin, red-brown to blackish twigs, small buds, and shaggy bark lower surface of leaflets = glabrous, except for tufts of trichomes in the main vein axils; scattered scales, Teeth have tufts of hairs (usually concentrated toward teeth tips) Grows in Uplands CAGL – Carya glabra (Pignut hickory)

5 (sometimes 7) leaflets Leaves: usually glabrous (sometimes hairy), spicily fragrant,scruffily pubescent rachis, usually green, range from wide/obovate to skinny/more lanceolate Bark: close/tight intersecting smooth ridges; 5 leaflets (glabrous) Smoother Bark dark CAOL – Carya ovalis (Red hickory)

Similar to C. glabra, but has 7 leaflets vs. 5 (but 5 possible), may be pubescent beneath vs. glabrous, & the petiole bases are red vs. green Buds are similar to C. pallida, but without golden-colored glands. Scruffily pubescent rachis Bark: tight or often scaly or somewhat shaggy 7 leaflets (hairy) Uncommon in Piedmont Flakey bark

CAOV – Carya ovata (Shagbark hickory)

5 (or 7) leaflets, terminal leaflet (4-) 6-15 cm wide Thick (3-6 mm), tan-gray twigs and larger buds Leaf teeth have clusters of hairs on their tips (may wear off) Leaf underside is Hairy; Large round yellow peltate scales Bark: Light colored, very shaggy, in long loose strips Smells ‘dusty’ or ‘fruity’ (like artificial banana) Rich bottomlands

CAPA – Carya pallida (Sand hickory)

7-9 leaflets Leaf undersides are paler, covered with many silvery scales, scruffily pubescent rachis, reddish petiole bases Spicily fragrant leaves (minor) Dry, sandy habitats Buds are covered with golden-colored glands

CATO – (Mockernut hickory) [C. alba]

Usually 7-9 leaflets Leaves: very fragrant, very hairy, scruffily pubescent rachis Bark: Tight with diamond-shaped intersecting ridges (on mature trees) Strong smell (some suggest it smells like ‘turpentine’)

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Doubly Serrate leaves: CACR – Carpinus caroliniana (American Hornbeam) [musclewood; ]

Leaf: smooth/glabrous (not hairy) on top and underneath Bark: smoother muscle-like

OSVI – (Hophornbeam)

Leaf: smooth on top, hairy on bottom of leaf (try licking) Bark: kind of peely

ULAL – Ulmus alata (Winged elm)

Leaf: rough on top (rub hand from front to back of leaf) Small (5 cm long), top dark green, paler and slightly hairy beneath Leaf narrower than U. americana Bark: corky ‘wings’ grow along stems of older trees Leaf base not as asymmetrical as the other elms

ULAM – Ulmus americana (American elm)

Leaf: intermediate b/w ULAL (but wider) & ULRU (but smoother) 7-12 cm long, 2-8 cm wide, upper surface green and glabrous or slightly scabrous, paler and downy beneath Bark: flat-topped ridges separated by diamond-shaped fissures Leaf base asymmetrical

vs. U. rubra: less rough, more gradual point, darker green

ULRU – Ulmus rubra (Slippery elm) [red elm]

Leaf: wider leaf than ULAL, but SUPER rough (like sandpaper) 8-16 cm long, 5-9 cm wide, shape variable (obovate or oval or ovate), leaf base variable (cordate or cuneate or oblique or rounded), bottom surface green, pubescent or with tufts in vein axils Leaf base often very asymmetrical

Other Trees ILOP – Ilex opaca (American Holly)

Leaf: looks like typical holly leaf (thick, shiny, spiney) Bark: smooth, light Evergreen

MORU – Morus rubra (Red Mulberry)

Leaves are similar in shape to the naturalized White Mulberry (Morus alba), but are rough above and not glossy, and also similar to Paper Mulberry (Broussonetia papyrifera), but are not as rough-hairy

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Other Trees LIST – Liquidambar styraciflua (Sweet gum)

5-lobed, Star-shaped leaf; usually very straight-trunked tree Light-colored bark, bark becomes more ridged with maturity Bark of young trees is mostly smooth but often has warts Twigs sometimes have corky ‘wings’ (sometimes on trunk too) Leaves have licorice-like smell (to differentiate from Acer)

LITU – Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip poplar)

Funny-looking 4 lobed leaf (looks like tulip ) Leaf shape can be variable (especially in depth of lobing) Tall fairly straight trunks; often branchless for quite a distance up when mature

FAGR – Fagus grandifolia (American beech)

Leaf: strongly ribbed, thin/papery, smooth Bark: smooth, light (people carve names into a lot) Bark usually covered in many lichens

` JUVI – Juniperus virginiana (Eastern redcedar)

Leaves: Scaly evergreen Bark: peely, light brown exposing grey when peeled

OXAR – Oxydendrum arboreum (Sourwood)

Leaves: long, oval, tiny teeth on margin, taste very sour Conspicuous hairs along leaf mid-rib in young leaves Bark: typically dark and ridged Trunk rarely grows straight (follows light gaps)

PRSE – Prunus serotina (Black cherry)

Leaves: oval or almost round shaped with fine teeth along the entire leaf margin (edge), small Conspicuous brown hair along base of leaf mid-rib (unlike other cherries) Bark: horizontal stripes, often flaky Bark and twigs have strong, bad smell when scratched

SAAL – Sassafras albidum (Sassafras)

Leaves: variable (un-lobed/ovate, 2-lobed mitten, 3-lobed ‘trident’) Leaves are Fragrant when crushed

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Other Trees CECA – Cercis canadensis (Redbud)

Leaves: heart-shaped, small, thin and papery Bark: Initially smooth and brown; later ridged and furrowed to scaly and dark gray; maroon patches with orange cracks sometimes

CHVI – Chionanthus virginicus (White Fringetree)

Leaves: opposite, somewhat thickened, green above and paler below, dense white hairs on bottom, Leaves often seem clustered toward ends of stems Bark: light brown on young trees

DIVI – Diospyros virginiana (Common Persimmon)

Leaves: drip-tip, lighter & ‘cracked’ bottom, smooth margins Bark: blackish and broken into square plates (on mature trees) [Inner bark turns yellow after cutting] Main branches not horizontal, leaves more evenly spaced on longer side branches, small branches are hairy, & buds are blackish. Bundle scars: 1 NYSY – Nyssa sylvatica (Blackgum)

Leaves: entire (non-toothed margins), smooth, sometimes have random teeth, sometimes glossy Main branches tend to be horizontal and the leaves are clustered on short spurs of smooth branches Bundle scars: 3

PLOC – Platanus occidentalis (Eastern sycamore)

Leaves: large, with coarse-toothed palmate lobes, Bark: flakes off to reveal a mottled pattern of white and green-gray Usually only in wet areas (near streams) Infra-petiole bud JUNI – Juglans nigra (Black Walnut)

Leaf: long, pinnately compound leaves with many leaflets Distinctively fragrant Bark: very dark and rough in old trees; gray with diamond-shaped ridges in medium-sized trees

MATR – Magnolia tripetela (Umbrella magnolia)

Leaves: large (20-60cm long) , lack lobed bases, whiter bottom, ribby Leaves resemble umbrellas in that they are large and clustered at the ends of branches. Bark: bark is smooth, except for scattered lenticels (corky warts)

AMAR – (Common serviceberry)

Leaves: 4-13cm long, finely serrate, paler/hairy below, round or slightly cordate base Small to medium-sized tree, found most often in upland 6

Pines PITA – Pinus taeda (Loblolly Pine )

Long needles (15-20 cm long) in groups of 3-4 Bark: deeply furrowed, large flaky/blocky layered clumps

PIEC – Pinus echinata (Shortleaf Pine )

Shorter needles (7-13 cm long) in groups of 2 (or 3) Bark: large thin flaky patches, not deeply-furrowed, many small spotty indentations (resin craters)

PIVI – Pinus virginiana (Virginia Pine)

Shortest needles (3-8 cm long) in groups of 2, twisted needles Bark: The reddish-brown bark is broken into small thin flakey plates (sometimes described as corn-flakey)

Non-native ELPU – Elaeagnus pungens (Autumn Silverberry)

Leaves: evergreen, waxy green top; silver with brown spots below Stems: spotted, often thorny

ELUM – Elaeagnus umbellata (Spring Silverberry)

Leaves: green and distinctly scaly above, silvery and scaly below. Stems: Young branches are silvery and scaly, and may bear thorns, later developing a light brown color AIAL – Ailanthus altissima (Tree Of Heaven)

Alternate, pinnately compound, 11- 41 leaflets (1-3ft long), leaflets are 5-15 cm long, pointed at the tip, large glandular teeth near base Bark: resembles the skin of a cantaloupe when young Smells bad when broken (like ‘burnt peanut butter’) ALJU – Albizia julibrissin (Silktree)

Leaves: Many small doubly compound leaflets

PATO – Paulownia tomentosa (Princess tree)

Leaves: Large (15-30+ cm long, 15-30+ cm wide), heart-shaped

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Common understory in Duke Forest: (Poison ivy)

-> 3 leaves; furry vine on trees -> ‘Leaves of Three, Leave it be’

Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper) 5 palmately compound leaves; vine rotundifolia (Muscadine) a grape vine with ‘toothy’ pseudo-circular bib shape Lonicera japonica(Japanese honeysuckle) non-native vine Polystichum acrostichoides (Christmas fern) frond lobes stocking-shaped (bump at base of each) Vaccinium spp. (Blueberry ) [V. corymbosum = typically eaten sp.] Chimaphila maculata (Striped Wintergreen) dark green w/ white stripes Smilax bona-nox (Saw greenbrier) spines along edge of leaf Smilax rotundifolia (Common greenbrier) round leaf; green on top AND bottom Smilax glauca (cat greenbrier) round leaf; green top, whitish (glaucous) on bottom

Quick Glossary:

Axillary = relating to leaf axils (angle between a leaf and a Obovate = Teardrop-shape w/ small leaf base & larger leaf tip stem) or vein axils (angle b/w vein and mid-rib) Ovate = Teardrop-shape w/ large leaf base & tapering leaf tip Cordate = heart-shaped, stem attaches to cleft Peltate = rounded Cuneate = triangular, stem attaches to point Pubescent = hairy Entire = smooth margin (edge) Rachis = main stem of a compound leaf Glabrous = without hair, smooth Scabrous = rough Lanceolate = slender and pointed shape Serrated = toothy Margin = leaf edge Stellate = star-shaped Oblique = slanting leaf base Trichomes = fine outgrowths or appendages on plants

Useful Links:

List of Duke Forest : http://dukeforest.duke.edu/forest-environment/plants/

Will Cook’s (Duke) awesome site for photos (and quick facts/comparisons): http://www.carolinanature.com/trees/#trees

More useful tree links: http://www.ibiblio.org/openkey/intkey/index.htm http://dendro.cnre.vt.edu/dendrology/factsheets.cfm http://www.cas.vanderbilt.edu/bioimages/southeastern-plants.htm http://www.dnr.state.md.us/wildlife/Habitat/WildAcres/habichat26.asp

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Appendix 1 – More Trees! Oaks QUCO – Quercus coccinea (Scarlet Oak)

Leaf: 3‐ 7 in. long, oval in shape with very deep (C‐shaped) sinuses and bristle‐tipped lobes, shiny green above, paler and generally Top hairless below but may have tufts in vein axils. [Glossy and smooth on both top and bottom, unlike similar species.]

Bark: On young trees, gray‐brown, with smooth streaks; later becoming darker and developing irregular broad ridges and narrow furrows especially near the base. Bottom

QUFP – Quercus falcata var. pagotifolia (Cherrybark Oak) Shade

Leaf: 5‐ 8 in long, 5‐9 bristle tipped lobes which are shallower than Q. falcata, margins of lobes are nearly at right angles to midrib, bright green above, duller and may be scruffy‐hairy beneath and on petiole.

Shade leaves are blockier, more variable, and more difficult to tell apart from Q. falcata or Q. velutina

Bark: Initially smooth, but quickly developing small scaly ridges, later becoming dark, scaly and quite rough. At times resembling PRSE bark

QULY – Quercus Lyrata (Overcup Oak)

Leaf: Alternate, simple, 6‐ 10 inches long, roughly oblong in shape with a highly variable margin that has 5‐ 9 lobes with irregular sinuses. The underside is white and pubescent.

Bark: Gray‐brown and scaly, often with irregular plates, again resembling white oak

QUMA – Quercus Marilandica (Blackjack Oak)

Leaf: Alternate, simple, 5‐8 inches long, thickened, with 3 shallow, bristle‐tipped lobes near the end of the leaf, upper surface lustrous green, lower surface paler with orange‐brown pubescence.

Bark: Very dark (almost black), rough, with blocky plates and splits.

QUMI – Quercus michauxii (Swamp Chestnut Oak)

Leaf: Obovate, 4‐8 inches long, 3‐5 inches wide, margin with large round blunt teeth, dark green and shiny above, pale and downy below. [larger & broader towards tip, paler/hairier back vs. Q. montana]

Bark: Similar to white oak, ashy gray, scaly, with age developing irregular furrows and becoming darker.

Grows on moist and wet loamy of bottom lands, along streams and borders of swamps in mixed hardwood QUPH – Quercus phellos (Willow Oak)

Leaf: Alternate, simple, 2‐ 5 inches long, linear or lanceolate in shape (willow‐like) with an entire margin and a bristle tip.

Bark: On young stems, smooth, gray and tight; later becoming darker and forming irregular rough ridges and furrows.

QUPR – Quercus montana [prinus] (Chestnut Oak)

Leaf: Alternate, simple, 4‐6 inches long, obovate to elliptical in shape with a crenate margin, shiny green above and paler below.

Bark: Gray‐brown to brown, very smooth when young; developing hard and wide flat‐topped ridges which later become thicker and more sharply pointed ridges; somewhat resembling the back of an alligator or ridge tops. [similar deep ridges as OXAR] QUSH – (Shumard Oak)

Leaf: 4‐7 in long, 5‐ 9 lobes with coarse bristle tips, sinuses extend more than halfway to midrib, shiny/glossy dark green above, pale yellowish‐green below with prominent tufts of tan hairs in the axils of the veins. [Related oaks may have similar tufts, but not as pale tan or as tufted]

Bark: Grayish brown, developing dark, deep furrows, with light gray to white scaly ridge tops. Similar to that of Q. Rubra: smoothish when young, then breaking into vertical ridges ("ski tracks").

More Trees ASTR – Asimina Triloba (Pawpaw)

Leaf: Simple, entire, large (up to a foot long), and malodorous if crushed (smells kind of like green pepper)

Bark: Smooth, brown, splotched with wart‐like lenticels, often with light gray patches.

CELA – Celtis laevigata (Sugarberry)

Leaf: Longer than wide; NOT scabrous (rough) on top. Elongate, almost triangular shape with uneven bases with three prominent veins and usually few teeth.

Bark: VERY warty. Gray to light brown, smooth with corky "warty" patches, does not develop ridges (as hackberry does)

CEOC – Celtis occidentalis (Common Hackberry)

Leaf: Ovate, 5‐13cm long, serrate (often end 75% way toward base), acuminate tip, asymmetrical base, 3 distinct veins originate from base, maybe hairy or scabrous (rough) on top, green above, paler & somewhat pubescent below. Short petiole, Little round drupes.

Bark: Smooth & gray‐brown when young, soon developing corky, "warts" which later develop into rough corky, irregular ridges.

Not to be confused with: Celtis tenuifolia ( Dwarf Hackberry) – has smaller leaves and usually less teeth (with teeth going less further down margins toward base) HAVI – Hamamelis virginiana (American Witchhazel)

Leaf: Alternate, simple, broadly ovate to obovate, 7‐14cm long, inequilateral, wavy margin (nearly dentate), petiole pubescent, dark green above and paler below.

Bark: Smooth, gray to gray‐brown even on very old stems.

` ILAM – Ilex ambigua (Carolina Holly)

Leaf: 2‐9cm long, elliptic to broadly ovate (often nearly round). Apex abruptly to gradually acuminate, marginal teeth often inconspicuous, petioles usually <1cm long

Wider and larger than ILDE leaf

ILDE – Ilex decidua ( Holly; Possumhaw)

Leaf: Deciduous, 4‐8cm long, margin shallowly blunt toothed and often revolute, narrowly obovate (variable), tips rounded or broadly wedge‐shaped, glabrous and dull green above, paler below.

Bark: Thin, smooth (may be warty) and grayish brown, with lenticels.

LIBE – (Northern Spicebush)

Leaf: Alternate, simple, elliptical, 7‐13cm long, pinnately veined, entire margin that may be somewhat ciliate, green above and slightly paler below, strong pleasant spicy odor when crushed.

Bark: Brown to gray‐brown and speckled with light colored lenticels

Pied./C.P.: Hairy Northern Spicebush, var. pubescens –somewhat hairy undersides (at least on midrib) and young twigs. Mountains: hairless var. benzoin is common.

PRAM – Prunus americana (American Plum)

Leaf: finely serrated and abruptly long‐pointed (acuminate).

Bark: similar to other cherries, dark gray with horizontally‐elongated lenticels, but tends to peel with age, revealing pale reddish‐tan bark

Uncommon in the Piedmont.

SANI – Salix nigra (Black Willow)

Leaf: Pinnately veined, lanceolate in shape, 5‐15cm long, with a finely serrate margin. Leaves are dark and shiny above, light green below.

Bark: Brown to gray‐black, with thick, scaly ridges and deep furrows.

ACNE – Acer negundo (Boxelder)

Leaf: Opposite, pinnately compound, 3‐5(‐7) leaflets, 5‐11cm long, margin coarsely serrate or somewhat lobed, shape variable but leaflets often resemble poison ivy, light green above and paler below.

Bark: Thin, gray to light brown, with shallow interlacing ridges;

BENI – Betula nigra (River Birch)

Leaf: Pinnately‐veined, rhombic to ovate, 3‐8cm long, doubly serrate, wedge‐shaped base, green above, paler and fuzzy below.

Bark: Smooth/rust‐colored on young trees; develops papery scales, exfoliating horizontally with several colors (creamy to orange/brown)

ALSE – Alnus serrulata (Hazel Alder)

Leaf: Alternate, simple, obovate to elliptical, 5‐10cm long, pinnately‐ veined, finely serrated wavy margin, dark green above, paler and finely hairy beneath.

Bark: Thin, gray to brown and smooth, trunk fluted.

MAG – Magnolia grandiflora (Southern Magnolia) Young Medium‐sized Old Leaf: Alternate, simple, evergreen, oval to elliptical, 12‐20cm long, pinnately veined, entire margin, very thick almost plastic‐like, waxy/shiny dark green above, paler with rusty fuzz below.

Bark: Brown to gray, thin, smooth/lenticellate when young, later with close plates or scales.

Planted are often densely rusty‐hairy beneath. "Wild" trees are usually glabrous beneath, green and without rusty hairs.

COAM – Corylus americana (American Hazelnut)

Leaf: Alternate, simple, with a doubly serrated margin, broadly oval with a heart‐shaped or rounded base, dark green above and paler below, 6‐13cm in length, petiole with stiff, glandular hairs.

Bark: Light gray/brown, smooth; later, mild criss‐cross netted pattern

EUAM – Euonymus americanus (Strawberry Bush) (AKA Hearts a’ Bustin)

Leaf: Opposite, narrow, lanceolate, toothed Thin, green Stems Often < 50cm tall due to deer‐browse

RHCO – (Flameleaf ) [Winged Sumac]

Leaf: Alternate, pinnately compound, up to 31cm long, 7‐15 leaflets per leaf (2‐9cm long); leaflets are lance‐shaped, with entire margins, rachis has prominent wings between the leaflets, shiny, dark green above, paler and a bit fuzzy below.

Bark: Light brown or gray, smooth with numerous lenticels when young, later with large, thin scales.

STGR – grandifolius (Bigleaf Snowbell)

Leaf: Alternate, large (5‐18cm long, 4‐10cm wide), obovate/round, apices acute to short‐acuminate, densely & finely pubescent beneath (giving the underside of the leaf a pale color)

Bark: Dark and streaked

CRAT – Crataegus sp. (Hawthorns) 1

CRCR – C. crus‐galli (Cockspur Hawthorn )  Glossy, narrow obovate, glabrous,firm leaves; long thorn

(CRAT) – C. macrosperma (Bigfruit Hawthorn)  Thinner leaves (vs. C. pruinosa), reflexed, acuminate (long‐ 2 pointed) leaf tips; short thorns

CRMA – C. marshallii (Parsley Hawthorn) 4  Deeply‐lobed parsley‐like leaves (but can be variable in shape); thorns are relatively innocuous

(CRAT) – C. pruinosa (Frosted Hawthorn) 3  Thicker leaves that are not acuminate or reflexed at the tips

CRVI – C. viridis (Green Hawthorn) 1 C. crus‐galli  Glossy, wide leaves; few long spines 2 C. macrosperma 3 C. marshallii 4 C. pruinosa ‐‐ LOOK FOR THORNS – 5 5 C. viridis

VACC – Vaccinium sp. (Blueberries) VAAR – Vaccinium arboreum (Farkleberry)

Leaf: Entire or finely serrate, oval to oblong, 2‐7cm long, leathery, nearly evergreen, very shiny above, dull/ glaucus below.

Grows as a low bush; glabrous (smooth) twigs

Bark: Shreddy & patchy with reds, browns & grays present.

VACO – Vaccinium corymbosum (Highbush Blueberry)

Leaf: Elliptical, 2.5‐8cm long, entire or serrated margins, green above, green/glabrous (sometimes pubescent/pale) below; twigs glabrous.

Bark: Gray‐brown to reddish brown, very shreddy.

VAAT – Vaccinium fuscatum (Black Highbush Blueb.)

Leaf: Elliptical, entire, 1.5‐7cm long, pubescent & glaucous below; Twigs are covered in downy hairs

Bark: Brown to reddish brown, peely.

VAST – Vaccinium stamineum (Deerberry)

Leaf: Elliptical, entire, 2.5‐8cm long, white/pubescent beneath.

Bark: Gray‐brown to reddish brown, finely shreddy.

Slightly paler VAVA – (Blue Ridge Blueberry) below

Leaf: Elliptical, short petiole, 2.5‐5cm long, very finely serrated or ciliated margins (nearly entire), dull green above, pale white beneath.

Bark: Smooth, green / green‐red, usually stays green/low to ground.

More Invasive Species – Privets LIJA – Ligustrum japonicum (Japanese Privet) LILU – Ligustrum lucidum (Glossy Privet)

Thick, glossy leaves and usually glabrous twigs. Leaf Sizes differ: LIJA has smaller leaves (<6 cm long vs. 6‐15 cm for LILU).

A tip to tell the two apart: L. japonicum leaves snap when bent, L. lucidum leaves just bend. LIJA LILU

LISI – Ligustrum sinense (Chinese Privet)

Leaf: Small (usually 2‐4cm long) elliptic, smooth‐edged, arranged oppositely along the twigs. Leaves are thick with a glossy upper surface and a pale green lower surface. Midrib of each leaf is hairy.

Bark: Smooth gray with lenticels. Trunk is usually forked near base.

Tick Removal

If you find a tick attached to your skin, there's no need to panic. There are several tick removal devices on the market, but a plain set of fine-tipped tweezers will remove a tick quite effectively.

How to remove a tick

1. Use fine-tipped tweezers to grasp the tick as close to the skin's surface as possible. 2. Pull upward with steady, even pressure. Don't twist or jerk the tick; this can cause the mouth-parts to break off and remain in the skin. If this happens, remove the mouth-parts with tweezers. If you are unable to remove the mouth easily with clean tweezers, leave it alone and let the skin heal. 3. After removing the tick, thoroughly clean the bite area and your hands with rubbing alcohol or soap and water.

Avoid folklore remedies such as "painting" the tick with nail polish or petroleum jelly, or using heat to make the tick detach from the skin. Your goal is to remove the tick as quickly as possible--not waiting for it to detach.

*Remember to look EVERYWHERE for ticks: including back, crotch, belly-button, and hair. *Also, be sure to heat (drier) or wash and dry clothing to kill lingering ticks. [Do not leave field clothes in bedroom]

Follow-up If you develop a rash or fever within several weeks of removing a tick, see your doctor. Be sure to tell the doctor about your recent tick bite, when the bite occurred, and where you most likely acquired the tick. http://www.cdc.gov/ticks/index.html http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/ticks.htm

Chiggers

Chiggers are extremely tiny, and can only easily be seen using magnification. Their presence is best known, instead, by the intensely itchy welts they leave behind, usually where your skin is thin and tender (ankles, backs of knees, about the crotch, under the beltline, and in the armpits) and where tight clothing proves an obstacle to them (beltline, sock-line). Chigger bites sometimes have tiny red dot at the center, which is the remains of a scablike tube your body formed in response to the chigger's saliva.

Chiggers’ larval stage is parasitic. Their primary hosts are reptiles and , with (including people) secondary, almost accidental hosts. They seek tender skin, attach to the surface, inject a saliva containing a digestive enzyme and drink the dissolved skin tissue. Your body responds to this with an itchy allergic reaction. Adult chiggers are not parasitic and feed on various plant materials and other small arthropods.

What to do about them: Our normal movements and hygiene, along with the difficulty the larvae have gaining a mouthhold on us, keep most chiggers from successfully attaching, but people have reported hundreds of bites resulting from a relatively short exposure. Protect your skin by wearing tightly woven clothes that cover as much of your body as possible with minimal openings, applying insect repellents and bathing soon after exposure. Unlike ticks, to which they are related, chiggers are fragile. A shower or bath following exposure to chiggers will remove most of them. If a bath isn't available, a brisk toweling down should dislodge or crush most of them 12

Poison Ivy

Urushiol oil causes the allergic reaction. The oil is in the leaves, vines, and !

Apprx. 60% of ppl are allergic, but 90% of the remaining 40% will become allergic through exposure!!

Within a hour or so you should rinse with lots of cold water. Hot water will open your pores and let the oil in. For up to about 6 hours washing with alcohol may still help remove the oil, but the sooner the better!!

The oil from poison ivy is extremely stable and will stay potent - essentially forever. You can get a rash from clothing or tools that have the oil from last summer, or even from many years back. So if you don't remove the oil by washing, using alcohol to dissolve it, or by just hosing off with a hard spray from a hose - assume it will stay forever.

Once you have the rash the oil has been absorbed and you probably can't spread it to others or elsewhere on yourself. If you get big blisters filled with liquid it is mostly water and will not spread the rash even if they break.

Poisonous Snakes

Timber (Canebrake) Rattlesnake [Crotalus horridus]

Live in rocky hillsides, fields, woodland edges and swamps. It is frequently found hiding in and under stumps and other woody surface cover. They are active both day and night in cool but not cold weather. During hot summer months, they are most active at night.

Copperhead Snake [Agkistrodon contortrix]

Lives in wooded areas, among rocks, or near streams or ponds. Often hides in stone walls, under decaying stumps, in piles, & under large flat stones. Basks during the day when weather is cool. During hot summer months, they are most active at night.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/gaston/Pests/reptiles/snakepix3.html

Yellow Jackets

Disturbing ground nests or trees can cause yellow jackets to attack. If you do disturb a yellow jacket nest, general guidelines are to slowly walk away with both hands covering the face to protect the more sensitive body areas. It is best to walk toward dense vegetation or enter a vehicle or building to avoid the stinging insects. Swift movements will only attract more yellow jackets.

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