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Pdf/Annex1-2002-3 En.Pdf (Consulted in August 15Th 2016) Revista Iberoamericana de Viticultura, Agroindustria y Ruralidad ISSN: 0719-4994 [email protected] Universidad de Santiago de Chile Chile Duarte Ribeiro, José; Figueiredo, Elisabete; Rodrigues, Carlos Between Localness and Deterritorialization in Nemea and Basto Wine Regions Revista Iberoamericana de Viticultura, Agroindustria y Ruralidad, vol. 5, no. 14, 2018, March-May, pp. 39-60 Universidad de Santiago de Chile Chile Available in: https://www.redalyc.org/articulo.oa?id=469554838018 How to cite Complete issue Scientific Information System Redalyc More information about this article Network of Scientific Journals from Latin America and the Caribbean, Spain and Journal's webpage in redalyc.org Portugal Project academic non-profit, developed under the open access initiative RIVAR Vol. 5, Nº 14. Mayo 2018: 39-60 ISSN 0719-4994 Between Localness and Deterritorialization in Nemea and Basto Wine Regions* Entre localidad y desterritorialización en las regiones vitivinícolas de Nemea y Basto José Duarte Ribeiro** Elisabete Figueiredo Carlos Rodrigues Abstract Between the knowledge and power negotiation dynamics of all the actors involved (from winemakers to farmers, local authorities and other stakeholders like local cooperatives) there is a need to question if the current rural development strategies based on local food qualification schemes under Geographical Indications (GIs) are being implemented towards the extended development of the region, the local community and therefore to the full protection of wine terroir3 on a broader sense than only origin and quality. This comes along with recent renewed interest on the notion of terroir, where discussions emerged about the preservation/re-creation of terroir on the ongoing process of history and the discussion on the extent of GIs capacity to protect terroir as history, heritage or “patrimoine.”4 Nemea (Greece) and Basto (Vinho Verde region, Portugal) are two high quality wines regions under the protection of labels of origin commonly under the framework of GIs. Recent discussions have emerged on the re-construction of local/traditional knowledge and thus on the re-construction of both regions wine terroir, that are related with challenges to the development of the regions between the preservation of localness (implicit on the protection by labels of origin) and the threats of deterritorialization. Keywords: Terroir, Geographical Indications, Local Food and Rural Development, localness and deterritorialisation. * Project Rural Matters – meanings of Portuguese rural: between social representations, consumptions and development strategies (PTDC/CS-GEO/117967/2010), funded by FCT (co-funded by COMPETE, QREN e FEDER). ** José Duarte Ribeiro, Middle East Technical University, Ankara, Turkey, [email protected]; Elisabete Figueiredo, University of Aveiro, Aveiro, Portugal, [email protected]; Carlos Rodrigues, University of Aveiro, Aveiro, Portugal, [email protected] 3 When vine growing and producing are translated into a concept like terroir that is embedded by geological and climacteric, territorial, social and cultural characteristics of a rural region, the wine bears a “signature” present on the “natural” and “unique” taste regionally identified that is protected by certified labels of origin. 4 Regarding terroir: “Beyond the measurable ecosystem, there is an additional dimension – the spiritual aspect that recognized the joys, the heartbreaks, the pride, the sweat and the frustrations of its history” (Wilson, 1998 cited by Barham, 2003). 39 Between Localness and Deterritoralization in Nemea and Basto Wine Regions Resumen Entre el conocimiento y las dinámicas de negociación de poderes de todos los actores implicados (desde los viticultores hasta los agricultores, autoridades locales y otras partes interesadas como las cooperativas locales) existe una necesidad de cuestionar si las estrategias de desarrollo rural actuales, basadas en las estrategias de calificación de producción de alimentos locales bajo las Indicaciones Geográficas (IGs), están siendo implementadas hacia el desarrollo extensivo de la región, su comunidad local y, por consiguiente, a la protección completa del terroir vinícola en un sentido más amplio que únicamente el de origen y calidad. Esta necesidad de cuestionar viene acompañada de un reciente y renovado interés por la noción de terroir, donde surgen debates sobre la preservación/recreación del terroir en el proceso continuo de la historia y también la discusión de la extensión de la capacidad de las IGs para proteger el terroir como historia, legado o patrimonio. Nemea (Grecia) y Basto (región de Vinho Verde, Portugal) son dos regiones vinícolas de alta calidad bajo la protección de denominaciones de origen que tienen, por lo general, el formato de IGs. Recientemente, han surgido debates sobre la reconstrucción del conocimiento local/tradicional y, en consecuencia, en la reconstrucción de los terroirs de ambas regiones, generando desafíos para el desarrollo de las regiones entre la preservación del carácter local (implícito en las Denominaciones de Origen) y las amenazas de la desterritorialización. Palabras clave: terroir, Indicaciones Geográficas, alimentos locales y desarrollo rural, localidad y desterritorialización. “Pruning” Local Food and Geographical Indications: considerations for Portuguese and Greek Cases Official schemes in agro-food products qualification have a long history. If we consider the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), and also the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), labels from the EEC Regulation 2081/92, they are based on protocols developed in the late 19th century, in France, to protect the uniqueness of wine regions like Bordeaux from fraud after the phylloxera epidemic situation that cause enormous damages in many wine regions in Europe. Nowadays qualification systems are, at a great extent, based on this wine qualification system, which means that the entanglement between product and territory is explored in two different directions: first linking the wine to the local through the concept of terroir and second linking the wine to the global as geographical indication (Barham, 2003; Van Leeuwen and Seguin, 2006). In fact, wine terroir is one of the most recognizable expressions to represent the idea that qualified products characteristics are tied to physical and cultural specificities of a given territory – representing its uniqueness. 40 RIVAR Vol. 5, Nº 14. Mayo 2018: 39-60 ISSN 0719-4994 In sum, the qualification systems by which, supposedly, qualified producers distinguish themselves by following an accepted and regulated code of practice, rely on the premise that consumers are willing to pay a premium price because they value certain quality levels. However, one has to understand whether or not there is awareness on the consumer’s side concerning the localness of the product that, once again supposedly, qualification systems should protect. Greek and Portuguese “rural world(s)” have been losing its (strictly) agro-productive character, going through an identity crisis (Figueiredo, 2008). For the case of Portugal, several authors refer that, after this identity crisis, there has not yet been found answers that lead to a new agro-rural paradigm (Covas, 2011; Oliveira Baptista, 2011). For the case of Greece, three paths are identified as main responsible for changing the physiognomy of rural Greece in the last 20 years. They are “de-agriculturalization of the countryside, rural mobilities and rural resilience during economic crisis” (Kasimis and Papadopoulos, 2001; 2013). The same authors argue that this three processes (at certain extent similar also in Portugal) have transformed internally the rural areas, forming a new rurality: “[...] characterized by contraction of agriculture, expansion of tourism and construction, increased pluriactivity, increased employment of international migrant labour and the reorganization of farm family labour and operation” (Kasimis and Papadopoulos, 2013: 263). Furthermore, both Portuguese and Greek agricultures are still mainly related to household farming, very traditional and small scaled (Louloudis and Maraveyas, 1997; Santos Varela, 2007). In addition, another aspect that Portuguese and Greek rural areas are apparently similar to each other is the fact that both are spaces of consumption that stand out (albeit timidly) as an alternative to large commercial spaces and processes of globalization. Consequently, is undeniable the importance for both countries the connection between local food and alternative (localized) food systems (Kasimis and Papadopoulos, 2013; Ribeiro et al., 2014). An interview (carried within the research context) with the Secretary General of Agricultural Policy & Management of European Funds in the Greek government, received the following answer to the question about the vulnerability of local producers in the current context of economic crisis: If we try to have an agriculture sector that would compete with what we know has commodities agriculture production system then Greece will fail. Because of various reasons concerning structural problems like small size of holding, high parcelization, low productivity and that will not allow us to be competitive with large scale agricultures of England, Germany, and France. The comparative advantages of the Greek agriculture sector, in my opinion, is to make a shift from the conventional production model to a production model which will explore the comparative advantages resulting from the particular climatic conditions
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