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JUNE 2018 SINCE 1979

Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places

Horizon pool at the Nio Beach Club, Nihi Sumba Island

INDONESIA: AN OTHERWORLDLY RETREAT Laid-back style, deserted beaches, pristine nature, world-class surfing, spa nirvana

ometimes, remarkable hideaways an astonishing variety of languages are southwestern coast that subsequently Sturn up in the unlikeliest of places. spoken; prominent individuals are still became known as “Occy’s Left” (after the The island of Sumba lies 250 miles east of buried in megalithic tombs; and each World Champion Australian surfer Mark Bali in the remote Indonesian province of year during the rice-planting season Occhilupo). During Indonesia’s April-to- East Nusa Tenggara. With an area of 4,270 Sumbanese men engage in pasola, a October surfing season, this is a 10-foot- square miles — almost the same as that of ritualized battle on horseback. (Blood high, 300-yard-long curl of turquoise Jamaica — and a population estimated to must be shed to ensure a successful water regarded by the cognoscenti as be around 760,000, it is no mere tropical harvest, and while nowadays the wooden one of the best left-hand breaks in the microdot. But for centuries the island spears are blunted, fatalities still occur.) world. After a period living on the beach,

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER was practically unknown. Headhunting Sumba began to attract a flicker Graves built a shack, which turned into a ceased only in the 1960s. Today close to of international attention in the late low-key bohemian surfing resort, which a third of Sumba’s people still practice 1980s, when surf enthusiast Claude subsequently found favor with a select an animist religion known as Marapu; Graves discovered a wave on the island’s group of wealthy people in Europe and the

Andrew Harper editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the launch of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report in 1979, the featured and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Papaya, melon and grated coconut, and clifftop breakfast pavilion at NihiOka spa, Nihi Sumba Island

From this perch, it was “possible to gaze along a mile and a half of tide-swept sand, edged by aquamarine sea and Other innovations have included a spa sink and monsoon shower, a huge walk- backed by forested hills. complex and an equestrian center. But in dressing area and an air-conditioned despite this construction, the land is still television room that led onto a gravel mostly undeveloped. garden with a second outdoor shower. United States who valued privacy, pristine I was greeted at reception by Loraine She then introduced me to my personal nature and the experience of being close Trollip, who, with her husband, Jason, butler, who explained that he could be to the end of the world. heads up the management team. A sunny summoned from anywhere in the resort One such guest was the New York-based and laid-back South African, she had via WhatsApp. Left alone, I wandered entrepreneur and billionaire investor worked previously as operations manager around my temporary home and decided J. Christopher Burch, who came to Sumba at Singita Grumeti Reserves in Tanzania that if I ever became a billionaire I would in 2012. Later that year, he purchased and before that as chef de cuisine at take up permanent residence. the property in partnership with James Singita Boulders Lodge in South Africa. Thanks to an early start, I was in McBride, whose résumé includes a stint This seemed an extremely good omen. need of lunch, so rather than ordering as the managing director of The Carlyle Formalities complete, we headed downhill room service, I headed down to the Nio hotel in Manhattan. on a cobbled path lined with hibiscus. Beach Club. Nihi Sumba is connected The scheduled flight by regional jet My villa, Mandaka #1, was accessible by a network of steep paths and steps, from Bali to Tambolaka in northwestern through a traditional gateway that opened laid out beneath a canopy of spreading Sumba takes 55 minutes. The transfer to into a private garden with a sizable jade- trees with buttress roots and dangling Nihi Sumba Island is then a two-hour green plunge pool. A teak deck led into a creepers. (There is a shuttle service for PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER drive along a winding road, with a glass-sided lounge with two parallel white those who are not feeling energetic.) surface that varies from adequate to sofas, wicker armchairs and a bar counter. Still getting my bearings, I found myself atrocious. Occasionally, at the crest of Upstairs, we entered an air-conditioned at the distinctly funky Boathouse bar, PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER a rise, the landscape opens out to reveal bedroom with a king-size bed swathed in next to the surf and dive shop. There, successive ridges of mysterious forested mosquito netting, which led onto a wide several bronzed 20-somethings — most hills, untouched by human settlement. balcony with a freestanding brass soaking of them Australian or South African it I reached Nihi Sumba still not know- tub and a simply astounding view. From seemed — were cleaning surfboards and ing what to expect. The estate comprises this perch, it was possible to gaze along a fishing equipment. I asked for directions 550 wooded acres that slope gently down mile and a half of tide-swept sand, edged to lunch. “Just follow the path past the to the sea. At the time of the sale, there by aquamarine sea and backed by forested turtle hatchery; you can’t miss it.” were just 12 understated accommoda- hills that even at first glance seemed to The Beach Club turned out to have a tions. Since then, Burch has invested a have an ancient and inscrutable quality. clay oven, a charcoal grill, a rotisserie reported $30 million to build 27 villas To wrap up my guided tour, Trollip and shaded tables set on the sand beneath with 38 rooms, all with private pools. showed me the outdoor bath with a stone thatched pavilions. Having resisted the

2 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2018 Clockwise from left: outdoor shower at my villa, the view from the balcony at sunset, and my plunge pool and garden, Nihi Sumba Island

Escorted by a private guide, I set out to transfer me back to the main resort. just after 7 a.m. on a morning that was Perhaps the best way to characterize still cool, clear and newly minted. We Nihi Sumba is that it is a hybrid of luxury hiked up the hill at the back of the resort. resort and upscale safari lodge. And just After about 20 minutes, we left the road like the best safari lodges in Africa, it wood-fired pizza and ordered some satay to walk along narrow paths through displays an admirable sense of social and and a fillet of grilled Spanish mackerel village houses and then atop the earthen environmental responsibility. The Sumba instead, I perched on a bar stool at a ramparts between flooded paddy fields. Foundation was set up in 2001 by Claude counter next to the horizon pool, gazing Eventually, we arrived at a platform Graves. Today Christopher Burch covers out to sea in a trance of pleasure. with a view of the Indian Ocean that its administrative costs so that all dona- Breakfast and dinner are served at the seemed to stretch halfway to northwestern tions can be used for eradicating malaria, main Ombak (“wave front”) restaurant, Australia. From this vantage point, we digging wells, providing health care to which, from an elevated location, has descended to the NihiOka spa, a collec- around 25,000 people and equipping 16 a panoramic view of Occy’s Left. A tion of wooden buildings constructed primary schools with furniture and all large deck, cantilevered over the ocean, around a cove of luminous turquoise necessary supplies. provides front-row seats for Sumba’s sea. A member of the staff led me up to a Nihi Sumba will not appeal to every- theatrical sunsets. The menu offers a clifftop treehouse. There, overlooking the one. It is hard to get to. And in general, it mix of Indonesian and international breaking surf, I feasted on banana bread, is a place best suited to people who are fit cinnamon cupcakes, and papaya and and active. But there is nowhere else quite PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER dishes. Throughout my stay, the food was impeccably prepared, and the Sumbanese melon topped with grated fresh coconut. like it. Despite being extremely sophis- staff were charm personified. My treatments — the resort’s signature ticated thanks to the Burch millions, it

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Although there are few places that massage, a head massage and a salt body continues to embrace its bohemian surfer are more perfectly suited to complete scrub — took place in a private pavilion past. If ever a $2,000-a-night resort could indolence, Nihi Sumba provides an with its own plunge pool. Alas, all too be accurately described as “cool,” then exhaustive list of activities, a significant soon a four-wheel-drive vehicle arrived this is it. H proportion of which involve horses or surfboards. Other diversions include yoga NIHI SUMBA ISLAND A99 and meditation, paddleboarding down the LIKE Virtually everything, but especially the pristine natural surroundings, the otherworldly atmosphere, Wanukaka River through remote villages, the wonderfully comfortable accommodations, the encyclopedic range of activities and the consistently jungle hikes to waterfalls and lagoons, delightful staff. DISLIKE The two-hour transfer from the airport can be tedious. GOOD TO KNOW The high season for surfing runs from April to October, when the prevailing winds create the best waves. Only 10 and deep-sea sportfishing. However, the people a day are allowed to surf Occy’s Left, but there are other waves, some of which are more suitable one activity that is considered mandatory for beginners. Raja Mandaka One Bedroom Duplex Villa, $1,995. Kuta Poleng Complex Block C/2, Kuta, Bali. is the “spa safari.” Tel. (62) 36-175-7149. nihi.com

JUNE 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 Reflection pool, left, and open-air lobby, Alila Villas Uluwatu BALI: A SERENE CLIFFTOP SANCTUARY Space and seclusion, ocean panoramas, service with a smile

ali is one of the magical names in people. Nowadays travel sophisticates tend year; the traffic in the island’s capital, Btravel. It conjures up visions of a to sniff, “Bali’s finished,” before turning Denpasar, is frequently gridlocked; and place that is remote, sensual and exquisite, their attention to the other 17,507 islands the 15-mile drive from Denpasar to the a land with gracious people and a refined in the Indonesian archipelago. cultural center of Ubud takes anywhere and complex culture. Thirty years ago, Actually, this dismissive attitude from 45 minutes to two and a half hours. much of the idyll remained intact. Then isn’t entirely fair. Areas of central and The national government in faraway

the Australians discovered that their northern Bali still display a ravishing Jakarta seems to have a slightly ALILA VILLAS ULUWATU PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER winter was an ideal time to go surfing landscape of sculptured rice terraces. schizophrenic attitude to Balinese off Bali’s Kuta Beach and that the flight And newfound wealth from tourism tourism. On the one hand, the policy time from Sydney was less than seven has, apparently, made the Balinese seems to be “the more the merrier,” but hours. Next, Europeans began to arrive in even more generous donors to the lavish on the other, in an apparent attempt ever-greater numbers. Finally, the newly rituals and festivals that punctuate their at conservation, hotel development is wealthy countries of Asia began to spend colorful religious calendar. But overall encouraged in the southern part of the their money on vacations. Last year, nearly the transformation is inescapable: Bali’s island, the Bukit Peninsula, which is arid 20 percent of foreign visitors to Bali were Ngurah Rai International Airport is huge, and, unlike areas to the north, of little from , a total of roughly 1.4 million serving up to 25 million passengers a use for rice farming. Bali was nearly two islands, and only a narrow isthmus — the PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER PHILIPPINES site of the airport — connects Bukit to the BRUNEI PACIFIC principal landmass. Historically, the south OCEAN was a cultural backwater, despite having

RAJA one of Bali’s major temples at Uluwatu, COMO SHAMBHALA COURTESY ESTATE: OF COMO HOTELS AMPAT BORNEO ISLANDS but as well as boasting some of Bali’s best surfing beaches, Bukit’s terrain is also KALIMANTAN suitable for golf-course construction. SUMATRA Pangkalan Bun SULAWESI The first Bukit resort of potential NEW interest to Hideaway Report readers was TANJUNG PUTING GUINEA NATIONAL PARK Amanusa — now known as Aman Villas Java Sea LOMBOK B anda Sea at Nusa Dua — which opened in 1992 Jakarta JAVA BALI MOYO KOMODO overlooking the Bali National Golf Club. Yogyakarta FLORES Recent notable additions have included Denpasar Tambolaka EAST TIMOR Artheafu Bulgarira Sea Resort Bali and the Six Senses INDONESIA SUMBAWA TIMOR Uluwatu. My destination on this trip, 0 200 400 MI SUMBA Timor Sea 0 200 400 KM INDIAN OCEAN however, was Alila Villas Uluwatu. Alila AUSTRALIA Hotels and Resorts, a Singapore-based

4 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2018 management company, first caught the and while it is invariably pleasant to hike down the 600 steps to the resort’s attention of many American travelers walk down, during the heat of the day the private beach at the base of the cliff. when Ventana Big Sur became its first walk up can be onerous. Villa #402 had a Restaurant options include The Warung U.S. property last year. tremendous feeling of space, thanks to a for Indonesian cuisine and CIRE for more- Much of the southern part of the Bukit generous open-plan layout. (The bedroom familiar international dishes. Peninsula remains undeveloped, and I was and the bath were separated by a large Stylish, private and well-managed, surprised by the dense vegetation during rattan structure.) A huge cushioned Alila Villas Uluwatu is a fine place in my hourlong transfer from the airport. daybed next to a glass wall overlooked a which to recover from a long flight or On arrival at Alila Villas Uluwatu, I was private garden, with a surprisingly large unwind at the end of a demanding Asian impressed by the serene and secluded pool, a small dining table and a pavilion itinerary. It also provides an excellent atmosphere, as well as the spontaneous on a raised platform. As well as being an base camp from which to venture into friendliness of the staff. Despite all the ideal spot for reading and relaxation, the the Indonesian archipelago. If you are changes that have taken place in Bali, latter provided a distant view of the sea. looking for a Balinese cultural experience, the Balinese themselves seem to have Having pointed out some of the villa’s however, then you must opt for one of lost none of their legendary charm and amenities — the outdoor shower in its the Harper-recommended properties instinctive good manners. own walled garden, the separate male farther north. H The resort’s public areas comprise a and female toiletries, the fridge with its series of graceful modern pavilions set freshly squeezed tropical juices — my around water gardens and reflection pools. butler departed to fetch a light lunch COMO SHAMBHALA ESTATE All along Bali’s southern coastline, the of prawn and coconut curry. (All room land falls precipitously into the Indian service requests can also be submitted via he most secluded Harper-recommended Ocean, and at many resorts, a dramatic a wall-mounted tablet.) In his absence, I Tresort in Bali is COMO Shambhala location and a panoramic view are major explored my temporary home, becoming Estate, an exquisite spa retreat overlooking aspects of the appeal. From a sofa in the ever more impressed. the most spectacular section of the Ayung lobby, I could see the resort’s stunning The villas come in one-, two- and River Gorge. The soundtrack to the property

ALILA VILLAS ULUWATU PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER main 165-foot horizon pool, which, at the three-bedroom configurations. However, is the constant rush of rapids. Here, the edge of a 300-plus-foot cliff, appeared to even the one-bedroom villas provide years fall away and it is possible to reimagine merge seamlessly with the ocean. tranquil private worlds, from which Bali as it was before the advent of mass I was driven up to my accommodations there is little incentive to leave. Those tourism. The 30 suites are housed within in a golf buggy by my private butler. The 61 who do manage to tear themselves away five lavish Residences, plus five Retreat villas are arrayed across a steep hillside, can luxuriate in the exceptional spa or Pool Villas and four two- or three-bedroom Villas. In the Tirta Ening (“Clear Water”) My private walled garden, surprisingly large pool and relaxation pavilion, Alila Villas Uluwatu Residence, the principal suite features a private Japanese garden with a waterfall. The property’s glow restaurant serves a range of organic dishes, while Kudus House PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER offers regional cooking in the setting of a 150-year-old wooden Javanese residence. Most guests spend much of their time in

COMO SHAMBHALA COURTESY ESTATE: OF COMO HOTELS the hydrotherapy spa, with its resident nutritionist, physiotherapist and Ayurvedic doctor. However, hiking, whitewater rafting, biking and cultural tours are also available.

Umabona Terrace Suite, COMO Shambhala Estate

ALILA VILLAS ULUWATU A94 LIKE The exceptionally spacious and stylish villas; the dramatic clifftop location; the delicious Indonesian cuisine. DISLIKE The view of the ocean from the one-bedroom hillside villas tends to be restricted. GOOD TO KNOW The transfer time to the airport is extremely unpredictable, as the local roads on the outskirts of Denpasar are incapable of dealing with the volume of traffic. One Bedroom Pool Villa, $550; Three Bedroom Pool Villa, $2,065. Jl. Belimbing Sari, Tambiyak, Pecatu, Kuta Selatan Pecatu Kuta Selatan, Badung, Bali. Tel. (62) 361-848-2166. alilahotels.com

JUNE 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 Indonesia Notebook

Amanikan in the magical Raja Ampat archipelago

CRUISING THE INDONESIAN ARCHIPELAGO

ost of the Indonesian archi- Purnama has four suites, plus a M pelago lacks hotels of a master suite with a private deck. Harper standard. For now, the Both Aman and Alila operate best way to explore remoter areas weeklong cruises through the is by luxury boat. Aman Resorts astonishing Raja Ampat Islands, an operates both a 105-foot wooden archipelago located off the coast of motor yacht, Amanikan, and a Indonesia’s West Papua province. 170-foot traditional sailing vessel, This comprises four main islands THERE BE DRAGONS Amandira. Alila Hotels and Resorts — Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati and AMANWANA: COURTESY OF AMAN has a 150-foot wooden sailing Misool — plus around 1,500 small he Komodo dragon is the Park, it is mandatory to be accom- yacht, the Alila Purnama. jungle-covered islets and cays. T world’s largest lizard and can panied by park rangers. Both Amandira and Alila Part of the so-called Coral Triangle, grow up to 10 feet in length. Until There are several flights a day Purnama belong to a type of tradi- the number-one priority for global recently, it was thought that the from Bali to Komodo Airport at tional Indonesian two-masted marine conservation, Raja Ampat dragons became so big because Labuan Bajo, a town on the north- sailing vessel known as a “phinisi,” has the greatest diversity of marine they had evolved to prey on the western tip of the island of Flores, KOMODO DRAGON: USO / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES which is chiefly constructed by life on earth — new fish species are local Timor deer. Nowadays scien- which is the port from which boats members of the Konjo tribe on still being discovered — and conse- tists suspect that the dragons depart to the national park. The

the island of Sulawesi. The first quently some of the world’s best are a relict of the megafauna dragons are found on the islands ROOM PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER phinisi is thought to have been diving and snorkeling. Encounters that once lived across Indonesia of Komodo, Rinca, Gili Motang and built around 1600 in imitation of a with dolphins, turtles, manta rays, and Australia. (According to the Padar, as well as Flores itself. As Dutch pinnace. Phinisi vessels are whale sharks and pilot whales are renowned evolutionary biologist well as trekking to see the dragons, still used in interisland trade and, relatively routine. and best-selling author Jared most visitors spend time snorkeling increasingly, for upscale tourism. Itineraries aboard Aman and Diamond, the Komodo dragon may in the prolific surrounding waters.

Amanikan has three cabins, a Alila boats also include cruises to have evolved to feed on an extinct The islands are hot and dry, with COURTESYRAJA AMPAT: OF AMAN large foredeck for outdoor dining Komodo National Park, home of the pygmy elephant that once lived hills up to 2,400 feet high, so the and state-of-the-art scuba-diving famous dragons, which includes on Flores.) Either way, they are experience is only for those who facilities. Amandira is a custom- the large islands of Komodo, Padar remarkable creatures that have are in good physical shape. The built phinisi that was launched in and Rinca, plus 26 smaller ones, to be treated with considerable best way to see the dragons is 2015, with five cabins (two with and more than 400 square miles respect. Komodo dragons have undoubtedly from one of the luxury king-size beds). Both vessels can of surrounding sea. Here, too, the been known to attack humans, and vessels operated by Aman Resorts be privately chartered. The Alila diving is world-class. to see them in Komodo National and Alila Hotels and Resorts.

6 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2018 Caption Ocean Tent, left, and beach at Amanwana, Moyo Island

HARPER CLASSIC: AMANWANA, MOYO ISLAND

imes are changing rapidly in a wilderness retreat on the island T Indonesia. The archipelago of Moyo, a speck of land off the is vast — 3,200 miles from west north coast of the larger island of to east — and, as yet, most of Sumbawa (not to be confused with looking the Flores Sea. A quarter diving), with certified scuba its 17,508 tropical islands are Sumba). An hour by floatplane to of a century later, the resort still instruction available. Moyo’s reefs untouched by development. But the east of Bali, Moyo is a nature seems to be at the cutting edge are pristine, and the water is of increasing numbers of intrepid preserve in which deer and wild of luxury travel. The tents come exceptional clarity. Sportfishing Americans and Europeans are now boar roam 135 square miles of with hardwood floors, king-size and guided jungle hikes are also discovering the region’s natural and untouched jungle. beds, sitting areas and Indonesian available. An open-air spa, just cultural riches. Doubtless they are When it opened in 1993, Aman- artwork. An airy pavilion with steps from the sea, provides a pioneers; the major hotel compa- wana was well ahead of its time. high ceilings, coconut pillars and variety of massages and body nies are unlikely to be far behind. With just 20 air-conditioned tented wooden flooring shelters the bar, treatments. Today Amanwana also The first luxury resort in the suites, it brought the style and dining room and lounge. provides a home port for Amandira archipelago, aside from those in ethos of an upscale African safari The primary activity is world- and Amanikan, the company’s two Bali and Lombok, was Amanwana, camp to a remote beach over- class diving (including wreck traditional wooden vessels. AMANWANA: COURTESY OF AMAN JAKARTA URBAN city center, as we did. Many of the private terrace. A subdued color Amenities at the hotel include SANCTUARY leading international hotel brands palette, hardwood furniture and two excellent restaurants: Sriwi- ­— Mandarin Oriental, Shangri-La, Indonesian textiles all helped to jaya for a marriage of Indonesian nlike Southeast Asian capitals Four Seasons, Fairmont — have create a serene environment. dishes and French technique and U such as Bangkok and Singa- Jakarta properties, but we opted Seconds after the arrival of Sekitei for classic Japanese cuisine. pore, Jakarta attracts relatively to spend a night at the 99-room our luggage, our private butler Overall, The Dharmawangsa is an KOMODO DRAGON: USO / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES few foreign visitors. A sprawling The Dharmawangsa Jakarta, set appeared with a tray of compli- oasis of calm and tradition and metropolis, with an expanding on a leafy 10-acre site in the district mentary tea and petits fours and a delightful antidote to Jakarta’s

ROOM PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER population of more than 10 million of Kebayoran Baru, an affluent an offer to help us unpack. concrete sprawl. people, it is primarily a political and residential area. Serenity and deep comfort, The Dharmawangsa Jakarta business center. However, Jakarta Aside from its verdant setting, is a gateway to Bali, Lombok and the most obvious virtue of The the other islands of the archipelago, Dharmawangsa is that it has a as well as to Yogyakarta, the city in strong sense of place, with public

RAJA AMPAT: COURTESYRAJA AMPAT: OF AMAN central Java close to the immense areas inspired by classic Java- ninth-century Buddhist temple nese art and culture. On arrival, complex of Borobudur. our reception was efficient and Currently, there is no recom- ceremonious without being stiff. We mendable hotel at, or near, Jakarta were escorted to our 1,150-square- International Airport, so even trav- foot Dharmawangsa Suite, which elers in transit may find themselves provided a separate living room, obliged to spend a night in the a lavish marble bath and a large

JUNE 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 JOURNEY TO THE ORANGUTANS By riverboat, through the Borneo jungle, to visit an endangered stronghold of Asia’s great ape

t had long been my ambition to see an orangutan in the wild, on orangutans and the president of Orangutan Foundation Iso on my Indonesia trip I caught an 80-minute flight from International, headquartered in Los Angeles. On my trip I was Jakarta to Pangkalan Bun in southern Borneo. From there able to visit Camp Leakey, the research center where Galdikas (or more specifically from the nearby port of Kumai), I took still lives when not fundraising or lecturing around the world. a riverboat up the Sekonyer river for about three hours to my Initially, Galdikas reintroduced captive orangutans to the base camp, Rimba Ecolodge, in the 1,600-square-mile Tanjung wild, a practice that ended in 1995. But many of the reintroduced Puting National Park. Today the park contains around 6,000 animals are still alive and have interbred with wild ones. As a orangutans. result, the orangutans at three viewing areas in the national Little was known about orangutans until the arrival of park are habituated to human presence and easy to see. zoologist Biruté Galdikas at Tanjung Puting in 1971. Along with My expectations of Rimba Ecolodge were not high, and

Dian Fossey and Jane Goodall, Galdikas was one of “Leakey’s the reality fell well short of them, with accommodations PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER Angels,” a triumvirate of young female researchers who were that were adequately comfortable at best. But the trip itself protégés of renowned Kenyan paleoanthropologist Louis Leakey. was unforgettable. For a full account of my journey, go to Forty-seven years later, Galdikas is the world’s leading authority AndrewHarper.com/go/orangutans. H

Clockwise from top left: alpha male orangutan, typical riverboat, orangutan mother and baby, bilingual injunction to silence, and view from my boat on a channel through the jungle ROOM PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

8 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2018 PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Hotel TwentySeven, in the Royal Industrial Club building, overlooking Dam Square CONTRASTING NEW AMSTERDAM HOTELS Notable openings in the ever-delightful Dutch capital

msterdam has long been one of my favorite cities. I love The VOC was a publicly traded company that prospered Athe misty beauty of its historic canal-laced center; its tall, initially as a result of a 21-year monopoly on the country’s gabled brick houses that are at once elegant and homey; and its spice trade. It was also the precursor of today’s multinational polite and good-humored inhabitants. corporations, since it had operations in and Southeast I’m also unfailingly fascinated by its remarkable ingenuity. Asia and issued bonds and shares to the general public. It also Amsterdam is a city that was conjured out of the marshy banks ran a remarkable web of trade routes that required cutting- ROOM PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER of the Amstel river. Originally a fishing village next to a dam edge logistics and navigational skills, along with shipbuilding on the Amstel — hence the name — it required some of the most skills. A glimpse of the company’s might can be found at remarkable hydraulic engineering ever undertaken to become one of Amsterdam’s most interesting small museums, the the center of a commercial empire in the 14th and 15th centuries. Scheepvaartmuseum (National Maritime Museum). During its golden age, Amsterdam was the most important Roughly the same size as Boston, Amsterdam continues to mercantile city in Europe, a role spearheaded by the Dutch thrive as an international business and cultural hub. Today it East India Company — Verenigde Oostindische Compagnie in is also a city that appeals to travelers of all ages and interests. Dutch, which is often abbreviated to VOC. Recently, it has emerged as a gastronomic destination. And it is

Details of our suite, Hotel TwentySeven

JUNE 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 also a center for shopping, with charming concept stores that Our King Studio with Terrace came with a raked roof Amsterdam Notebook provide an antidote to the global brands that line the streets and skylights. Furnished with modern Scandinavian-style of most of the world’s great cities. furniture, it was quiet, light and extremely comfortable. Faced This year saw the opening of the 16-room Hotel TwentySeven, with black, blue and white tiles, the bath was equipped with in an art nouveau structure overlooking Dam Square. The building originally housed the Royal Industrial Club, a prestigious meeting place for Dutch manufacturers and entrepreneurs. Recently, the club decided to lease the top two Marie-Stella-Maris, the Amsterdam- floors to a local developer to convert them into a hotel. “based lifestyle brand, has a small shop On arrival, we were slightly confused, since the hotel’s signage downstairs, so guests can buy their is very discreet, but eventually a friendly doorman directed us to the reception area on the third floor. Here, a pleasant favorite products to bring home. young woman checked us in and then showed us to Restaurant Bougainville and the hotel’s bar, the latter a striking space with a walk-in rainfall shower, custom Frette terrycloth robes and an onyx-faced counter and fine views over Dam Square. Marie-Stella-Maris soaps and lotions. (The Amsterdam-based A butler brought us upstairs to our suite, an elegant, high- lifestyle brand has a small shop downstairs too, so guests can ceilinged room with a large bed and a velvet-upholstered sofa. buy their favorite products to bring home.) The rich and sensual colors of the décor — teal blue, cream At breakfast the following morning, we sat next to three and burgundy — were complemented by textured wallpaper, generations of a Chicago family. All of them — grandparents, oak parquet floors and a contemporary starburst chandelier. parents and teenagers — seemed unanimous in their praise for the The butler explained that almost everything — lowering the hotel. (The teenagers were especially keen on the complimentary blinds, adjusting the temperature and selecting the lighting VanMoof bicycles that enable guests to scoot around town like a mood — could be controlled from a wall-mounted tablet. bicycle-loving Amsterdammer.) Though not a true luxury hotel, Amenities included a small wine fridge and an elaborate Italian the De Witt is a very pleasant and reasonably priced address in coffee machine. A white-marble bath with a gray mosaic floor an excellent location. H contained a walk-in rainfall shower and a large whirlpool bath. That evening, we enjoyed well-mixed cocktails by charming young bartender Eric van Beek before going out to dinner. The bar has quickly become popular with the stylish locals, who

give it a sophisticated and vibrant atmosphere. PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER The hotel also offers an array of bespoke services, including private tour guides, personal trainers, nannies and personal shoppers. But ultimately what we most liked about this property was its intimate character, despite a location at the very heart of Amsterdam.

n contrast, the Kimpton De Witt, which opened last May, Iwill appeal chiefly to fitness-oriented and style-conscious PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER younger travelers. Kimpton was founded in San Francisco 37 Our King Studio wih Terrace, Kimpton De Witt years ago. Today the company is owned by InterContinental Hotels Group and has 65 properties in North America. The De Witt is its first European hotel. HOTEL TWENTYSEVEN A94 I wondered if a hip San Franciscan brand could translate LIKE The sumptuous décor; the great location; the lively bar. DISLIKE Some of to an Old World city, but I was immediately impressed. The the staff needed more training to deliver the level of service to which this prop- erty aspires. GOOD TO KNOW The coffee makers are insanely complicated, so light-filled lobby has a vertical garden wall and blue-and-cream ask your butler how to work them. Junior Suite, $715, One Bedroom Suite, $915. floor tiles, the latter making a witty reference to the motifs of Dam 27. Tel. (31) 20-218-2180. hoteltwentyseven.com

Holland’s famous Delft pottery. Beyond the lounge area, Wyers KIMPTON DE WITT 89 bar and restaurant is run by an American chef, who serves dishes LIKE Friendly service; a strong sense of place; a high level of comfort at an afford- like barbecued flank steak, wood-grilled octopus, and a Dutch- able price. DISLIKE Poorly located electrical outlets meant I had to crawl on accented Caesar salad garnished with delicious nutty shavings hands and knees to plug in my computer. GOOD TO KNOW The No. 2 tram, which of Reypenaer V.S.O.P., one of Holland’s most distinguished stops just across the street from the hotel, is the fastest and easiest way to get to the Museum Quarter, where the Van Gogh Museum, Rijksmuseum and Stedelijk cheeses. The hotel also has a moody cocktail bar, plus a coffee Museum Amsterdam are located. King Studio with Terrace, $500. Nieuwezijds bar that serves freshly made beignets. Voorburgwal 5. Tel. (31) 20-620-0500. kimptondewitthotel.com

10 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2018 Amsterdam Notebook CONCEPT STORES

ith the opening of numerous W small, curated concept stores by young, mostly female shopkeepers, Amsterdam has become one of the most inter- esting shopping destinations in Europe. Such places sell an eclectic array of goods — every- thing from clothing, shoes and accessories to housewares, home linens, candles, cosmetics, jewelry and art. Here are four that we found particularly worthwhile. Selection of Dutch cheeses at MOS Amsterdam NEW RESTAURANT DISCOVERIES Essentiel Antwerp An Antwerp-based husband- or many years, the food scene in Amsterdam was, with the exception of several excellent Indonesian and-wife design team create F restaurants, rather unremarkable. Now a new generation of talented local chefs is inventing a contem- stylish, beautifully made ready- porary Dutch kitchen that is as exciting and cosmopolitan as the city itself. to-wear clothing for men and

women. UTRECHTSESTRAAT 145. MOS AMSTERDAM The bright art nouveau dining Though you can order à la carte, TEL. (31) 20-330-2065. Located on a small island in what room focuses on a splendid raw the best option is the Menu 212, was once part of Amsterdam’s bar. Otherwise, start with some which comprises five or eight Pluk Berenstraat Eastern Docklands — it has since Dutch shrimp croquettes — these courses to which you can add a This is a charming spot with been redeveloped — chef Egon are deep-fried and filled with tiny superlative cheese course. Their a unique selection of house- van Hoof’s light, contemporary North Sea shrimp in a Mornay cooking follows the seasons, wares, accessories, candles and restaurant with a duplex dining sauce — and then try the cod but highlights of a recent meal dishes. It’s also a great place in mustard sauce. SPUI 15. (31) here included potato bonbons PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER room overlooks the IJ river. Hence, to shop for gifts. REESTRAAT 19.

the backdrop to meals here is the 20-233-7452. with crayfish, tandoori-seasoned TEL. (31) 20-363-5977. fascinating ship and barge traffic sabayon and Robiola cheese; on this broad and busy channel. RESTAURANT 212 halibut poached in smoked rib-eye wen The prix fixe lunch menus change After earning a Michelin star oil; and a superb cherry dessert Hugely popular among younger regularly but run to dishes like red for their cooking at Bord’Eau, of Amarena liqueur-filled beignets Amsterdam women, this hip store prawns with fennel and plankton, chefs Richard van Oostenbrugge with bourbon and lemon. A fine carries a range of stylish clothing, brill with cockles in a beurre and Thomas Groot have opened selection of wines by the glass shoes and accessories that you

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER blanc, and barbecued veal with a superb new restaurant that accompanies the tasting menus. definitely won’t find anywhere roasted vegetables. The service serves outstanding and inventive Book well in advance, since this else. HOOFDDORPWEG 10. TEL. (31) is charming, and the wine list contemporary Dutch cooking in a is the most popular restaurant 20-669-5152.

is excellent. IJDOK 185. TEL. (31) more casual format. At their new in Amsterdam right now. And for Gekaapt 20-638-0866. place, diners sit at a U-shaped bar good reason. AMSTEL 212. TEL. (31) The shop is the place to go green that surrounds the open kitchen. 20-334-8685. in Amsterdam, since everything it THE SEAFOOD BAR Halibut poached in smoked rib-eye oil at Restaurant 212 sells is made according to vegan Fishmonger Fons de Visscher principles, with an emphasis on changed careers when he moved sustainability and a low impact to Amsterdam to open a restau- on the environment. Products rant in 2012. Today he owns four include clothing, housewares, seafood bars: three in Amsterdam accessories, picture frames and and one in Utrecht. The latest is jewelry, invariably from small

located not far from Amsterdam’s producers. KINKERSTRAAT 320.

flower market and is a great casual TEL. (31) 61-459-3229. dining address for seafood lovers.

JUNE 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 LAST LOOK

LAST WORD SINGAPORE’S SUDDEN HOTEL BOOM

or years, Singapore was a bit F of a hotel desert. True, there was always Raffles Singapore, the colonial grande dame, but many of the other options were underwhelming, and there were no boutique hotels of note. Of late, however, there has been a flurry of activity. Raffles will reopen later this year after a Lookout platform on the remote Indonesian island of Sumba complete refurbishment. The New & Noteworthy Warehouse Hotel, a 37-room boutique property, debuted in 2017 SEYCHELLES IDYLL OUT OF THIS WORLD PUCCI DESIGN DEBUT within a Victorian godown. The new 49-room Six Senses Duxton, Located 140 miles south- As the world becomes The Hotel Savoy on Flor- created from a row of colonial-era west of Mahé, the principal progressively smaller, it is ence’s bustling Piazza della trading houses, received its first island in the Seychelles archi- always consoling to hear of Repubblica has reopened guests in April. And in October, pelago, Desroches Island somewhere notable that is following a six-month reno- it will be joined by the 138-room is surrounded by nine miles truly off the beaten track. vation. The number of rooms Six Senses Maxwell, which is of uninterrupted white sand. São Tomé and Príncipe is a has been reduced from 102 to LOOKOUT PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER also contained within repurposed A resort has existed on the tiny island nation, close to the 80, and designer Olga Polizzi 19th-century buildings. Fans of island since 1988. Having intersection of zero degrees has scoured the city to find the stylish Andaz hotel brand will been closed for two years latitude and longitude, artisans working in glass and be pleased to learn of the recent for a complete redesign, in the Gulf of Guinea, off metal. In order to revive its inauguration of the 342-room it has reopened as Four the coast of Gabon (West original grandeur, the lobby Andaz Singapore. Finally, there Seasons Resort Seychelles Africa). There are two direct, now has raised ceilings and is The Patina, Capitol Singapore, at Desroches Island. The six-hour flights a week exposed columns. Its decora- housed within two grand Victorian 71 accommodations now from Lisbon to São Tomé, tion, however, was left to the structures that have been restored include Suites, Bungalows from where it is a 35-minute Florentine fashion house of by Richard Meier. Allegedly a and Villas, plus three-, four- hop to Príncipe. The Sundy Pucci, which has accented the “six-star” property, it was finished and five-bedroom Residence Praia resort opened in space with vibrant Mediter- in 2015 but has yet to open due to Villas. All have private pools December. The work of ranean colors. In addition,

unresolved disputes among its DESROCHES ISLAND: COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS and direct access to the beach. French architect Didier the hotel’s Tuscan restaurant, owners. It is now set to debut later Amenities include Claudine Lefort and South African Irene, now shows a video in 2018. We shall see. for Mediterranean cuisine, landscape designer Greg installation of Pucci designs. The Lighthouse for seafood Straw, it comprises 15 lavish and a lavish spa. The scuba tented villas, some with ANDREW HARPER HOTEL RATINGS

diving and deep-sea fishing private pools, surrounded A99-100 A truly great hotel, among the finest of its kind in the world are world-class. by pristine tropical forest. A96-98 An exceptional hotel of great individuality and distinction The restaurant specializes A93-95 An outstanding hotel of genuine sophistication Desroches Island, Seychelles in local fish such as tuna A90-92 A fine hotel with considerable charm about which we have minor reservations and wahoo, and much of 89 & Below A hotel that did not meet the required standard the produce comes from A minimum score of 90 is required to become a recommended hotel and to be included in The Andrew Harper Collection. Find all of our recommended hotels at AndrewHarper.com. the resort’s organic farm. The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 4214 Medical Parkway, Activities include hikes along Suite 200, Austin, Texas 78756. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. “biosphere trails,” bird- POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts us that your periodical publication is AndrewHarper.com/ watching, deep-sea fishing undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright photo-contest 2018 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, and whale watching. reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

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