World’sThe Top Re Inside: Pg. 13 HILFIGER DEFENSE TEAM/3 POLO PROFITS SOAR/14 WWD

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • November 4, 2004 • $2.00 List WWDTHURSDAYtail Rents Sportswear

Desert Bloom LOS ANGELES — Light and easy cotton dresses are always AY

YS everywhere for spring, but this time around, the So Cal staple gets a retro touch with halter necklines and fun floral prints. Here, for example, Roxy’s cotton voile dress. .COM; STYLED BY MELISSA MAGSA .COM; STYLED BY For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Y ALEXIS BENVENISTE/CELESTINEAGENCY Industry on Bush: Free Trade, Tax Reductions to Top Agenda

By Joanna Ramey and Kristi Ellis industry executives said Wednesday. seek limits on surging Chinese WASHINGTON — President Bush’s As Bush formally claimed victory imports, which are expected to soar second-term agenda is likely to focus after John Kerry conceded the even higher when global quotas are on boosting free trade, more tax cuts election, representatives of the lifted on Jan. 1. and providing government assistance troubled textile sector said they Retailers and other importers of to alleviate rising health care costs, would push the administration to See Industry, Page 16 PHOTOS BY MIKE ROSENTHAL; MODEL: IVEY/NOUS; HAIR AND MAKEUP B PHOTOS BY WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL President Bush’s second-term agenda should feature more free trade, ™ 1 further tax cuts and assistance for rising health care costs. Tommy Hilfiger Corp., facing a federal criminal investigation, has hired A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 3 former Manhattan U.S. Attorney Mary Jo White to bolster its legal team. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated FASHION: Spring’s breezy dresses are featuring fun, flirty details, such as 6 tiered ruffle skirts and playful eyelet trims, perfect for the season. MISSION STATEMENT DISH: Bartack sets a new course in its price strategy…I.C. Isaacs & Co. 10 posts a profit…Adriano Goldschmied opens its first store in Los Angeles. Women seek bargains when shopping for clothes BEAT: Fox’s hit show, “The O.C.,” is set to become a brand with a clothing Thirty-five-year-old Christine describes a thrill to the hunt,” Canzani attests. “Women 11 line bowing for spring and new Web site and online magazine. herself in many ways: wife, mother, lawyer, sister, love to shop and they love to relate how they found world traveler, New Yorker. Her other not-so-secret an item and how much – or how little – they EYE role? “Bargain shopper,” she adds with a laugh. paid for it.” Kelly Hoppen, the self-proclaimed British “taupe queen” of interior design, “My family thinks I’m addicted to buying things “There’s definitely a status to getting a bargain,” 4 is taking America…The makers of “Find” describe their methods. on sale. But getting something at a great price adds Hill. “It shows how adept you are at shopping. makes me like it even more.” It’s an ego-affirming thing.” Classified Advertisements ...... 18-19 Christine can count herself Bargain shopping can also be To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is in good company. According like a game for some consumers, [email protected], using the individual’s name. to the Cotton Incorporated she contends. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Lifestyle Monitor™, six out of 10 That sense of play just might VOLUME 188, NO. 96 WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three female respondents relayed that be why women are willing to be additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 they bought the latest styles a little more adventurous with West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, when they went on sale at the their on-sale selections, asserts Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior end of the season. Thompson. “They might buy Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at “Women are justifying “There’s a thrill to the hunt. something a little more fashion- additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Women love to shop and they love No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. their purchases to themselves; forward than they usually do. I POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. finding an item on sale gives to relate how they found an item think women are willing to pick FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR and how much – or how little – DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is them a much greater comfort up something, like a T-shirt, in required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new level with their shopping,” they paid for it.” the latest hot color,if they view subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production — Kimberly Canzani, correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, observes Dan Hill, Ph.D., it as a more disposable item. please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Manhattan Mall magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully president of Sensory Logic, a They’re willing to take a chance.” screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive scientific consumer insight firm. “They don’t feel as Fun and games aside, bargain shopping is these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED if they have been taken advantage of; they’ve been serious business for its devotees. “Consumers MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND smart with their money. They believe that they are educated and they know what they’re doing. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED have bought well.” They are looking for the lowest price,” relays TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE “There’s a definite trend for consumers to regard Passikoff. He believes that it boils down to ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. themselves as wise shoppers,” considers Robert one major element. “There’s a complete lack of Passikoff, president of Brand Keys, a research differentiation at retail. Right now, there are dozens consultancy based in New York. “People will of comparable products at various prices. Years gravitate towards a bargain.” ago, if you were looking for a golf shirt in a certain In Brief “There’s definitely an emotional side to shopping,” color, you went to a certain retailer. Now you ● LAURELS FOR CHADHA: Rattan Chadha, chief executive offi- admits Betsey Thompson, spokesperson for can find the same style and color palettes of the cer of the Liz Claiborne Inc. subsidiary Mexx, was given the Talbot’s, the national retailer. “And that’s why there same shirt at almost any retailer from mass to the Grand Seigneur award by Modint, a Dutch trade organization for are a lot of women looking to feel good about what high end. And the consumer can barely tell fashion, interior design and textiles. The award, billed as the they’re buying.” the difference among them, except when it comes highest fashion award in the Netherlands by Modint, recognized And looking and buying they are. “When one to price.” Chadha’s vision in developing the Mexx brand, which he estab- lished in Europe and eventually sold to Liz Claiborne in May of the retailers on the property has a major sale, Passikoff’s observations are clearly supported 2001. Along with the award, Chadha received a sculpture de- we definitely see a marked by data from the Monitor, signed by Wendela Gevers Deynoot. increase in traffic throughout When Latest Styles Are Bought which shows women shop a ● VEGAS MOVES: The Las Vegas apparel trade show circuit is the entire mall,” relates 03Q2 04Q2 +/- variety of retailers for their apparel choices. When asked crackling with change. MAGIC International has signed a long- Kimberly Canzani, director Sale at End of Season 60.0% 61.7% 1.7 term lease for the Las Vegas Hilton Ballroom, Pavilion and of marketing and special where most clothes are Beginning of Season 28.0% 25.3% -2.7 Center for an additional 105,000 square feet of space. The an- events for Manhattan Mall, a bought, 21.8% of female nouncement comes after MAGIC moved its women’s offerings shopping destination located in the famous Herald respondents named mass merchants, followed from the Sands Expo Convention Center to the Las Vegas Square area. “Sales really motivate the consumer.” closely by department stores at 20.3%, chain stores Convention Center for its August event to unify the showcase under one roof. It means that the ASAP Global Sourcing Show at Price truly is a key determinant in the shopping at 19.0% and specialty stores at 17.7%. the Hilton, which coincides with MAGIC, will relocate to the process, according to data from the Monitor. “Women are finding brands that resonate with Venetian ballroom for its Feb. 14-17 show, expanding 60 percent Eighty-four percent of female consumers considered them and they’re finding value in so many different to 80,000 square feet. Lauren McConnell, vice president and gen- price an important factor in garment purchases, locations,” Passikoff adds. eral manager of MAGIC International, said the organization will followed by fabric content and laundering instructions. “Women definitely shop a variety of stores later announce specific plans for the February show layout. The heat is on MAGIC as other shows vie for its audience. The “There’s a value equation at play; often a decision during their bargain shopping trips,” Canzani Project Show announced that it was expanding to Las Vegas to buy something comes down to the purely from Manhattan Mall states. “The many different with a Feb. 13-15 run, featuring mostly men’s products with some economical,” shares Passikoff. “Consumers are shopping bags they carry out are proof-positive women’s apparel. And ENK International, the organizer of watching their wallets.” of that.” But Canzani is not just a representative Fashion Coterie and Brighte, said in September it plans a But a bargain isn’t a real deal if it’s only going to of the property, she’s also a customer. “Who can Brighte show at the Venetian from Feb. 14-16, focusing on the women’s contemporary market. hang in your closet, cautions Thompson. “Price has resist a sale? Great clothes at great prices just beg to translate to value. Something can be listed at a to come home with you, so I make it a point to ● SHIFTS AT RETAIL VENTURES: Retail Ventures Inc. named wonderful price, but if it doesn’t work for you, the look around after work.” Heywood Wilansky president and chief executive officer, succeed- item has no value.” Saving time and money? Now that’s a true ing John C. Rossler, who along with executive vice president and bargain! chief operating officer Edwin J. Kozlowski, has left the company. To the other extreme, an item may require a nice Mark Shulman succeeds Rossler as president of the Filene’s outlay of cash but last for years. Thompson relates This story is one in a series of articles based on findings Basement subsidiary of RVI. Shulman was chief operating officer a personal tale: “I have a coat in my closet that I from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ of Retail Brand Alliance, which operates Brooks Brothers, considered expensive when I bought it. But I’ve tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, Carolee, Casual Corner and Adrienne Vittadini. The position of had it for 10 years and it looks as good as the day each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the chief operating officer at RVI has not yet been filled. Also, Deborah Ferree, executive vice president and chief merchandis- I got it. It was worth every penny, so in a way, I American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes ing officer of DSW, RVI’s shoe chain, will become president and consider it a bargain and I will always love it.” and behavior regarding clothing, chief merchandising officer of DSW. Jerald Politzer, executive Just as important as a woman’s feelings about a appearance, fashion, fiber selection and vice president of merchandising for Filene’s Basement, will be- garment is her experience shopping for it. “There’s many other timely, relevant subjects. come president of the Value City Department Stores, another RVI subsidiary, succeeding Stuart Glasser, who also resigned. WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2004 3 WWW.WWD.COM Hilfiger Shores Up Defense Team

By Evan Clark more money in lower-tax jurisdic- $536.1 million. Hilfiger delayed the U.S. next year, Dyer said. will be offset somewhat by tions. Hilfiger’s tax rate last year the release of its aftertax results “In the past, when we have rolling out the brand to several NEW YORK — Tommy Hilfiger was 22.1 percent, compared with and the accompanying filing with done retail, we have done it kind specialty stores. Corp., facing a federal criminal those of competitors such as Polo the Securities and Exchange of with a big-bang concept,” he Dyer, who joined the firm in investigation of its commission Ralph Lauren, Jones Apparel Commission. said. “One of the things that we August 2003, when Hilfiger’s as- policies, has hired former Man- Group and Liz Claiborne, which The delayed filing to the SEC plan to do is to test first, so we sortment had become too basic, hattan U.S. Attorney Mary Jo have tax rates of 36 to 37 percent. could cause the firm to fall out of are going to be testing a number said the pendulum had swung White to bolster its legal team. The firm’s board formed a spe- compliance with the covenants of different concepts.” too far the other way. “The investigation is a dis- cial committee of independent di- on its debt, the statement said. Hilfiger’s second-quarter “We didn’t really have the bal- traction and has taken time, but rectors, including Clinton Silver, However, Hilfiger said it does not wholesale sales slid 7.1 percent ance in our lines,” he said. “We I am really trying to focus this Mario Baeza and Jerri DeVard, to expect its debt to become due to $387.4 million. Within the were way too much in kind of pin- organization on running and conduct an internal inquiry based early because of the delay. area, sales of women’s apparel nacle fashion. When you are in managing the business,” David on questions raised by the gov- Hilfiger has also initiated talks rose 7.6 percent to $172.1 million pinnacle fashion, they sell it and Dyer, the firm’s president and ernment. The committee retained with banks to seek waivers for its and was the strongest business in they don’t replenish it. We have chief executive officer, said dur- the law firm of Debevoise & U.S. subsidiary’s credit facility in the division. Men’s wholesale gotten much more key items, ing a conference call with ana- Plimpton, where White is a part- regard to the delayed SEC filing. sales fell 12.6 percent to $160.7 much more fashion basics, much lysts and investors. ner, as legal counsel. She will Debt rating agency Standard million and children’s dropped more core in all of our lines.” The announcement of White’s head the team. & Poor’s on Wednesday lowered 25.6 percent to $54.6 million. For the full year ending March hiring came as shares fell 51 White served as U.S. Attorney its corporate credit rating on H Hilfiger, an exclusive in 31, revenues are slated to decline cents, or 5.4 percent, to close at in the Southern District of New Hilfiger’s U.S. subsidiary to “BB” Federated Department Stores by “high-single-digit” percentage, $8.94 in New York Stock Ex- Yo rk from 1993 to 2002. She pur- from “BB-plus” and placed the this year, will be cut by about 15 while pretax income, before spe- change trading on Wednesday. sued organized crime and corpo- ratings on CreditWatch with neg- Federated doors to around 85 in cial items, is expected to be 30 The stock has lost 32.1 percent of rate liability cases as the top fed- ative implications. women’s for spring. The drop percent below 2004. its value since Hilfiger said in eral prosecutor in one of the Poor sales and higher-than- September that the company and Justice Department’s highest anticipated markdowns during some former executives received profile offices. At Debevoise & the first half prompted the firm grand jury subpoenas. Plimpton she is chief of a team to bring down its full-year fore- The company said in a written which includes eight former as- casts and concede that the Focus on Mary Jo White statement on Wednesday that the sistant U.S. Attorneys, that con- hoped-for turnaround of its U.S. ● U.S. Attorney in Manhattan June 1993 to investigation “is focused on the centrates on internal investiga- wholesale business would not January 2002, the first and only woman to hold appropriateness of the commis- tions and the defense of compa- come this fiscal year, as planned. that position. AP PHOTO/TIM ROSKE sion rate paid by the company’s nies and individuals accused of To help combat the slow- ● Prosecuted John Gotti and other organized subsidiaries to Tommy Hilfiger white-collar crimes. White de- down, Hilfiger has planned sig- crime figures in “Mobstock” cases, where mem- (Eastern Hemisphere) Ltd., as clined comment. nificant cuts in expenses at its bers of organized crime infiltrated the stock market. well as other related tax matters, Hilfiger also retained FTI Con- U.S. wholesale and corporate ● Prosecuted terrorists responsible for the although there can be no assur- sulating Inc. to review the buying divisions early next year. 1993 bombing of the World Trade Center and for ance that the scope of the investi- office commission rates. Auditor “We are going line by line,” bombings of U.S. embassies in Africa. Investigated gation will not be expanded.’’ PricewaterhouseCoopers cannot Dyer said. “No area of U.S. whole- Sept. 11 terrorist attacks. Several of the company’s sub- complete its review of the quar- sale and corporate is going to be ● Convicted Bankers Trust Co. for earnings management-related offenses. sidiaries pay commissions to ter’s results until it sees the spe- untouched.” ● Prosecuted cases involving financial statement and accounting fraud, Tommy Hilfiger (Eastern cial committee’s review, accord- There was no indication IPO fraud, fiduciary fraud, Internet fraud and insider trading. Hemisphere) Ltd., its British ing to the company’s statement. whether the cuts would result in ● Currently a partner at Debevoise & Plimpton. Virgin Islands subsidiary, for Hilfiger on Wednesday report- layoffs. ● Received law degree from Columbia Law School in 1974, an M.A. in services such as product develop- ed second-quarter pretax income Hilfiger will continue to make psychology from The New School for Social Research and a B.S. in psy- ment and sourcing. Inflating such fell 14.4 percent to $69.3 million strategic investments, including chology from the College of William & Mary. commissions could help keep on a 2.2 percent dip in sales to tests of new concepts for stores in TV’s ‘The O.C.’ Targeted for Branding By Nola Sarkisian-Miller ten by the show’s staff. There is also lower-priced apparel merchandise sold exclu- sively on the site, such as ribbed tanks, ringer and long-sleeve T-shirts and thermals, LOS ANGELES — Fox TV’s hit show, “The O.C.,” is on the verge of becoming a brand. that is less logo-driven and more about the show itself. “Mrs. Seth Cohen” tanks, re- A higher-end clothing line inspired by the program will launch for spring after the ferring to Brody’s character, are among the items for sale ranging from $20 to $32. debut last week of a subscription-based Web site called TheOCInsider.com. Members Leather goods, including diaries and small bags, will be added to the site next week. of the Web site will receive The OC Insider Magazine, which rolls out on Monday. Sephora will begin carrying a show-related three-piece bath line at its 95 stores Setting a precedent for scripted shows, Warner Bros. Television, which produces and on its Web site next week. “The OC Beauty To Go” set, packaged in a clear case, “The O.C.,’’ wants to parlay the momentum the one-hour drama series built in its first will offer a hydrating body gel, body wash and body scrub in miniature sizes for $20. season to generate interest in the extended proper- The magazine’s first issue is 64 pages, with 10 ties. The second season’s premiere is tonight. pages of ads from heavy hitters such as Ford, “We think we can nurture this television show into Sephora and Aeropostale. Content will revolve a brand that can have a life beyond the series itself,” around the Orange County lifestyle and its resi- said Lisa Gregorian, senior vice president of televi- dents, such as a feature about a home listed for sion creative services at Warner Bros. Television. $17.5 million. With images of glorious surf, telegenic stars and Creation of the fashion line is in the works. hilltop mansions in Orange County, Calif., it’s easy to Warner Bros. Consumers Products officials have see why the studio thinks “The O.C.” and the wealthy been meeting with designers and companies that lifestyle it glamorizes has legs. Young stars Mischa might be partners on the product targeting 18- to 34- Barton and Rachel Bilson are already fashion trend- year-olds. setters. Bilson’s recent engagement to co-star Adam PHOTO BY KEVIN WINTER/GETTY IMAGES “We want to create a collection that’s aspirational Brody — they are also an on-screen couple — has and conveys a premium surf couture style, one that propelled fan interest on Web sites and in magazines. you’d find cool in and of itself and purchase it,” said “The show has cachet and all the right elements to Karine Joret, senior vice president of worldwide pub- it,” said Shari Anne Brill, vice president and director lic relations for Warner Bros. Consumer Products. of programming at media services agency Carat USA. Joret said she hopes to select the line’s partner Brill said that breaking into fashion and merchandis- and begin production by the end of the year. The line ing is “a pretty unusual move for a network show, but would be sold at key retailers, not on the Web site. cable shows like ‘Sex and the City’ have shown that it Joret’s team met with Lian Murray, the former de- can be done and lead to living brands when the signer for Hurley, who has launched her own premi- shows go into franchising.” Cast members from “The O.C.” um surfwear line called Aqua VI. Murray said they “The O.C.” finished tied for 23rd among 242 prime-time shows in the coveted 18- discussed men’s and women’s products that would include about a half-dozen styles. to 34-year-old demographic in its first season, she said. It was the second-highest Walking shorts, pants and shirts in premium fabrics, such as striped wovens, were a rated scripted show behind “Friends” among females ages 12 to 24. few of the ideas mentioned, along with denim. Retail prices would average about $100. “It could conceivably be the highest-rated scripted series this year in that demo- Warner Bros. Consumer Products has been cultivating retail partnerships. Scoop graphic,” Brill said. in New York, one of a handful of possible retail accounts to carry the line, has The anticipated buzz helps set the stage for the branded spin-offs. A Web site worked with the division, selling vintage-inspired Looney Tunes T-shirts. membership costs $24.95 annually. Gregorian said the fee will buy members music Scoop co-owner Stefani Greenfield said the line would pique cross-generational downloads from the program, customized ring tones and access to an online radio interest. “To us, it wouldn’t be about the show, but about buying great clothing in- station playing hits from “The O.C.’’ spired by the show,” she said. “As long as the product is great, I wouldn’t care if it Fashion receives a big plug on the Web site with hair, makeup and style tips writ- came from ‘The Flintstones.’’’ 4 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Designing Women NEW YORK — Two doyennes of interiors bring their styles to the public eye: Kelly Hoppen at Bergdorf Goodman and Alexa Hampton on PBS.

HOPPEN’S STANCE Kelly Hoppen, the self- proclaimed British “taupe queen” of interior design, is taking America. Or at least trying to. Not only does this week mark the official opening of her first U.S. boutique, but also the launch of her latest book, “Kelly Hoppen Style,” a coffee-table tome that outlines her zen aesthetic. What’s more, her stepdaughter Sienna Miller’s first movie, “Alfie,” opens nationwide Friday. The book already has been out in England for six weeks with, so far, “record sales,” according to Hoppen, who’s just off the plane from London to prepare for her boutique’s opening party. The 600-square-foot space at Bergdorf Goodman sells $300 pillows; room sprays such as Scent One, which smells like “a clean man,” and bedspreads and couches. (Larger shops in Neiman Marcus in Miami and San Francisco are to follow.) Wearing the requisite taupe- colored sweater with her watch on the outside and a pair of Miss Sixty jeans, Hoppen is sitting in the entrance to her boutique just off the elevators. She calls it her eye® “living room”: two big chairs and Alexa Hampton an end table, which she casually brushes to make sure everything’s A QUEST TO FIND HIDDEN TREASURES in proper order. She’s especially It’s hardly an exaggeration for Alexa Hampton to say that she and the hyper about the fact that stock is production team of “Find,” a home show that begins its second season dwindling in the boutique. “Don’t Friday on PBS, descend upon an apartment like a pack of wolves. They stash look at that,” she says, as she their coffee cups, handbags and camera equipment in the kitchen, and approaches a particularly bare quickly stalk around their prey — today it’s an Upper West Side pied-à-terre shelf. Sales have been brisker — to question the origin of a sofa or how tiny speakers can be installed than expected with customers Here, Kelly Hoppen discreetly in the ceiling. charging everything from an at Bergdorf All of this is done to gather information for segments where Hampton, elaborate wall mirror to small Goodman, a Manhattan decorator who joined “Find” this season as a senior design round plants that were supposed and a model consultant, leads viewers through exclusive homes around the country, to be for display. bedroom, inset. simplistically showing off the work of interior decorators such as Lulu de Books and stores, however, Kwiatkowski, Albert Hadley and David Easton. have never been enough for Hosts Leigh and Leslie Keno of “Antiques Roadshow” begin each Hoppen. She’s been shopping a episode by checking out antique furniture, art and objects in homes television show around around the country (last season, they found a Martin Johnson Heade Hollywood. The idea came out of painting in a Massachusetts attic that brought in more than $1 million at her school in London, where she auction). In the show’s final segment, Hampton gives a tour of a home. teaches six-day master classes in She was hired as much for her designing expertise as for her connections interior design. among world-class decorators. Because no deal has been signed, Hoppen This morning’s pied-à-terre was designed by Ernest de la Torre. “We can’t say exactly what the series will be about. wanted modern but we wanted to make it comfortable,” explains de la “Makeover shows are dead,” she says. “It’s more Torre, who is leading Hampton, director and executive producer Russ of a reality show, but it’s real. I’m not going to Morash and associate producer Laura LeBlanc around the 3,000-square- show people how they can change their lives for foot space he outfitted for a couple who use it when passing through the $2. It’ll be about my work at the top end. city. “They have a 10,000-square-foot home in South America, so this is Everyone aspires to be the top, but not everyone their hotel room.” can achieve it.” And it’s a decadent one at that. There’s a Rauschenberg painting in the So, something along the lines of “The beige sitting room, where everyone goes crazy for a high-quality copy of a Apprentice”? “What’s ‘The Apprentice’?” Hoppen Twenties Ruhlmann sofa. In the so-called “media room,” darker taupe asks. “No, it’ll be better,” she responds, without irony. hues take hold in the form of calfskin leather walls, shag carpet, a pullout Then she adds: “I’ve never seen it.” camel-hair sofa and cashmere and coyote-fur pillows. “Everything is so Obviously, Hoppen’s confident attitude has helped her tactile,” Hampton observes. business grow. She never went to school for her trade and De la Torre then leads the group to the foyer, a cube surrounded by started interior design as a 16-year-old working on homes for race-car dark wood panels that, when pushed lightly, reveal closets, a guest drivers after she was referred to one by a friend. She learned about how to stock a store from Joseph bathroom and a “secret passageway” that leads to two bedrooms. He Ettedgui, the owner of the British line Joseph. points out a view of the Time Warner building from the master bedroom, “He said that every Saturday he’d see the same people coming through the store,” Hoppen saying: “They built it in the time it took me to do this apartment!” explains. So he’d change the merchandise every Friday night. “I would go to Brompton Cross to have “The smaller the space, the tougher it is to decorate,” Hampton says a cup of coffee with a friend and then dip into Joseph. It would look like he had a totally new store.” with a nod. “It’s like a jigsaw puzzle.” Besides her school of design, Hoppen has a freestanding shop in Notting Hill and a mail-order The tour completed, everyone’s attention turns to the details. A flower catalogue. “Kelly’s Taupe,” one of her paint colors, she says, is “the best-selling paint in England,” delivery arrives for the dining room table and coffee table, Hampton and Morash though she warns customers not to mix it with sand tones. Hoppen’s main business is creating houses discuss what room to begin filming in and the remote control shades in the from the ground up. Clients answer a 50-page questionnaire asking about their tastes and habits, and sitting area are adjusted to an optimal height. Hoppen develops their home from the architecture “down to the chocolates in the bowl.” The As filming begins, Hampton moves easily through the apartment with chocolates, naturally, are taupe-colored. de la Torre, who also proves to be a natural in front of the camera. Despite Though the world has subscribed to her philosophies, it’s been much more difficult imposing them enviable decorating genes (her father was uberdecorator Mark Hampton), on her kin. Her daughter, Natasha, an up-and-coming singer in London, wanted blank walls. “She’s she is able to talk about design clearly and with no pretension. completely bohemian.” Stepdaughter Savannah lives in the countryside and prefers the rustic look. “It looks like you’ve mined every square inch,” she remarks to de la Torre, As for Sienna, “I think she bought my paint.” pointing out a bar area right past the foyer. “It’s much better for your kids to have their own style. When they see taupe, they go like this,” And spoken like a true Manhattanite, he responds, “In New York, every Hoppen says, linking her index fingers in a vampire slayer-like gesture. “They take antitaupe pills.” single inch counts.” — Marshall Heyman — Jamie Rosen HOPPEN PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; RYAN BY THOMAS IANNACCONE BY STEVE EICHNER; RYAN HOPPEN PHOTOS BY ~ IS NOT JUST JEANS.

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InLOS ANGELES — From tieredthe ruffle skirts to playful eyelet trims,Grove breezy dresses get fun, flirty details perfect for spring. ER BELLI; STYLED BY MELISSA MAGSAYSAY ER BELLI; STYLED BY

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AG Adriano Goldschmied last Denim Dish week opened its first retail location, in Los Angeles. AG Moves On Its founder has departed, but jeans brand AG Adriano Goldschmied is moving ahead with new projects. The brand, owned by Koos Mfg. of Los Angeles, last week opened its first store, on trendy Robertson Boulevard in that city, and this week disclosed that it tapped Christopher Enuke as head designer for the AG brand. Enuke, who founded the Oliver Twist brand and contin- ues to design the Oligo Tissew line, will join Koos on Monday. His new employer, meanwhile, is providing finan- cial backing and administrative support to the Tissew line, though Enuke will remain its majority shareholder. Yu l Ku, president and chief executive officer of Koos, said the new retail location was intended to serve as a test vehicle for products, as well as the AG brand. “It’s an image store,” he said. “Stores only carry cer- tain projects, but in the new AG store, we can carry the whole line and test new ones.” One is Sam & Billy, AG’s new denim line for women that will be shown to buyers in February. Goldschmied left the brand in September and is devel- oping a sportswear line he plans to launch in February. In addition to its Robertson Boulevard store, the com- pany plans to soon open an outlet store at the Desert Hills Premium Outlets near Palm Springs, Calif. For 2005, a New York store is in the works, as well as another outlet store at Woodbury Common in Central Valley, N.Y., and two stores in Japan, opening in May and October. Enuke also plans to add knitwear for women and men to round out the retail locations. “It’s a denim Enuke said he is hoping to “take Oligo Tissew to $10 He added that the brand has had production issues, but store, but with product to support the denim,” he said. million to $20 million in the next three to four years.” with Koos, that should be solved. “He needs my strength in Ku said he expects the 1,700-square-foot store to gen- Currently, the company generates annual revenues of design and I need his strength in production, so it’s a per- erate just less than $2 million in sales its first year. almost $2 million. fect marriage,” he added. — Michelle Dalton Tyree

“Growth this quarter was driven Style Icon’s Plus Push primarily by Ali Shapiro looked at the 64 percent of Americans who improvementsimprovements toto are classified as overweight and saw an opportunity. our operations, “It’s like a country without a flag,” Shapiro said of improvedimproved marginsmargins the plus-size population. She created the forthcoming and better delivery Style Icon denim line with that population in mind. to our retailers,” Many trend-conscious premium labels run up to a 32- said Peter Rizzo, of inch waist, which Shapiro described as “a tight 10.” I.C. Isaacs & Co. Her line produces sizes from 14 to 32, and focuses on creating stylish looks that would rival the trendy styles produced by contemporary brands. Shapiro, who serves as creative director, described the plus- Lowering the Bar sized jeans niche as “barren.” “We’re observing trends in Europe and interpreting Bartack, a premium line of jeans launched a year ago them for the American market,” said Shapiro, who by the Jolna Design Group, is taking a new tack in its added, “after all, we’re way bigger than the Europeans.” price strategy. Style Icon is not only looking to the runways for The brand initially targeted a retail price point of inspiration. Shapiro is also concerned with using the about $100, but later this month will begin shipping right cottons, such as cotton denim from Japan, Taiwan, jeans targeting the $68 to $88 range. China and Hong Kong, as well as the right fits. The com- Lisa Engelman, a former Paris Blues executive pany is owned by ADTN International, which holds the who joined Jolna in August to head the Bartack divi- licenses for the PNB Nation, Starter, Bugle Boy, Harry sion, said the first target “is just a bad price point.” Potter and XOXO brands The competition at the $100 to $125 tier is intense, Style While plus-size women longed she noted, which has prompted many brands to move Icon’s for the trend du jour, like bomber upmarket. Another Jolna brand, Bella Dahl, is among Cadet jackets, fitted skirts and low-waist- the premium lines that has moved its average retail jacket and ed jeans, Shapiro knew that in price up to $150. pleated order to have them fit properly, The lower price tier, Engelman said, opens the skirt. some adjustments had to be brand to many more potential shoppers. Girbaud’s Firm Posts Profit made. “Our waist sits on a “Not everyone can afford a $150 pair of jeans,” she said. natural waist,” Shapiro At Bartack’s new level, with wholesale prices ranging I.C. Isaacs & Co., the North American licensee for the said. “The only thing a low from $32 to $36, she said, “It gives you enough markup Marithé & François Girbaud jeans brand, posted a waist will give you is an along the way that you can make a great pair of jeans.” third-quarter profit of $2.5 million, following a net extra roll.” The $68 to $88 range has been a relatively dead zone in loss of $545,000 a year earlier. Style Icon will launch the jeans market for the past several years, a niche The improvement, which translated to 18 cents a for fall 2005. Shapiro’s 25- between the status price tier and premium occupied by a diluted share as opposed to the 5-cent-a-share loss in the year career in the apparel few lines, such as Lucky Brand Dungarees. However, over prior-year period, came on a 39.2 percent surge in sales industry has included the past year status brands including Polo Jeans Co. and to $22.8 million for the three months ended Sept. 30. stints at Limited Express Tommy Jeans have also raised their prices into that range. “Growth this quarter was driven primarily by and High Style Fashion in Bartack offers about 25 styles of jeans, all in blue improvements to our operations, improved margins Hong Kong. In 1996 she start- denim and assembled in Mexico, with what Engelman and better delivery to our retailers,” chairman and ed the ASAP consultancy. called a “young contemporary” fit and rises that hit chief executive officer Peter Rizzo said in a statement. The line’s wholesale about two inches below the navel. The firm kept a sharp eye on cost cutting during price points will run from “Everything is a five-pocket jean,” she said. “We’re the quarter, reducing the cost of goods and operating $13 to $41. Shapiro predict- building a brand here. You won’t see skirts or cutoffs.” expenses. Isaacs also disclosed in a recent filing with ed the wholesale volume for While the brand stopped shipping its higher-end the Securities & Exchange Commission that François 2005 to exceed $2.5 million. product in July, it continues to be sold in boutique Girbaud joined its board last month, replacing “We understand that for most stores around the country. Engelman said she believed Staffan Ahrenberg, one of his financial advisers. of these women, their weight is the new price strategy will help the brand expand into Girbaud and Marithé Bachellerie together own a 35.6 not constant,” Shapiro said. “We better department stores and projected its revenues percent stake in the company. give enough room, enough space in could reach $20 million over the next year. For the nine months, the firm recorded a net prof- seams, and double reinforcements. Engelman, who does not use a title, is based in it of $4.7 million, 36 cents a diluted share, compared We do not want women squeezing New York and reports to Steve and Kerry Jolna, the with a net loss of $716,000, or 6 cents a share, in the into something that does not fit.” brothers who own the Los Angeles-based company. prior-year period. Sales were up 31.7 percent to $64.7 — Lauren DeCarlo — Scott Malone million. —S.M. STYLE ICON PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT STYLE ICON PHOTO BY WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM The BeatX California Ts for Every Taste

By Nola Sarkisian-Miller Pete’s extra-long Majestic Paris’ doubled-layered hand-dyed henley. LOS ANGELES — In 1899, the director of the U.S. Patent asymmetric top. Office suggested that it close, claiming that “everything that can be invented has already been invented.” Jaded minds may apply that same woefully wrong as- sessment to the pedestrian T-shirt. In fact, the T-shirt business continues to thrive, bene- fiting from the simultaneous denim frenzy. Local design- ers and businesses here have struck gold with their cre- ations. Their common threads? Fabric innovations and unique processing treatments. Here is a look at some of the latest lines in the T-shirt. FOR THE LOVE OF PETE Pete isn’t really a T-shirt, and it’s not really a blouse. The lacy pointelle tank layered with stretchy rayon tulle or the second-skin fit of the henley are creations that actually require a bit of design know-how. As a result, the line’s partners, Janine Milne and Stacey Tanham, have carved out a niche by developing their own pointelle fabric — with the help of a piece- goods manufacturer who is also a partner — and adding design extras to the garment. After its first shipment in July, Pete, also done in crewnecks and long-sleeve styles, has developed a fol- lowing at 30 stores, including Planet Blue in Santa Monica, La Bella in Long Beach, Blue Bee in Santa Barbara and the five Fred Segal locations in California. Key looks for spring are the white lace story and the extra-long double-layer tank, the modern version of the tunic. Ruching, asymmetric cuts and exposed seams give it a deconstructed look with draping. Icy blue, sheer pink, chartreuse and chocolate brown are among the season’s best-selling color palettes. With wholesale prices between $13 and $21, they expect first- year wholesale volume of $1 million. Its prices make Pete an attractive resource for high- HEIDI GIBB PHOTOS BY PETE AND MAJESTIC PARIS profile retailers, but small and tight is how the owners “You can say my style is more sophisticated than the To minimize costs, Cytrynbaum minimizes the fanfare. prefer to keep the business, partly because Milne runs a product I produced in the past,” said Zeller, 49, who “We’re product-driven so we typically have nothing few others. Milne is a showroom owner at the New Mart partnered with private label manufacturer Crew to do with marketing, advertising or publicity, which here, who assists in the sales as well as the design of Knitwear, based here, for the line. would typically get translated into the price,” he said. two other lines: Elaris, a hand-knit sweater label, and Her supima cotton creations utilize fabric — 50 single Claudette, a collection of vintage separates. jersey, 1 x 1 ribs and a piquet — she developed with a RIDING THE GRAIL “Working with products from the emanation helps us local textile company and the garment dye process. The The T-shirt line Grail is pursuing the apparel Holy Grail to really understand the product and sell it effectively,” piquet fabric is being launched for spring, along with of branding. In less than a year, the line known for its graphic Milne said. two bodies, the deep V-neck short sleeve and puffy art Ts created by a tattoo artist is launching warm-up suits, sleeve T-shirts. Its buttonless henley, long scrunch tank leather bags and jewelry. Most notably, it signed a denim pro- ONE ZOOEY RIDE and raw-edge crewneck are continuing pieces for spring. duction deal with Los Angeles-based Blue Concepts this Nearly 30 years after she launched her first T-shirt Zooey added sporty fleece pieces this fall in a wide spring that will be a 50 percent partner in the venture. business right after graduating from college, designer waistband pant with reverse fabric on the sides, a fitted But its staple is the paint-splattered, potassium- Alice Heller is at it again. jacket with elbow patches and a pant with vintage washed T-shirt, done in 15 bodies, including tanks, Heller, a veteran in the apparel trade who ran jeans buttons. Knits wholesale from $22 to $32 and crewnecks, cap sleeves and the T-shirt dress. and knitwear divisions at Esprit and Rampage, has cre- the fleece from $50 to $60. Grail demonstrates its yin-and-yang message ated Zooey, a 10-month-old T-shirt line that she can In about 300 specialty stores, including in its artwork, most notably the rose grow- wear and appreciate. Madison in Los Angeles, Barneys New ing out of a skull and a living sparrow in a York and Anthropologie, the line is pro- dead tree. Zooey’s raw-edged jected to bring in $3 million in whole- But the source of the images re- mod V-neck jersey. sale volume in its first year. mains a secret. “He’s a very underground, cut- A MAJESTIC FE AT ting-edge artist and doesn’t want his Harvard graduates with MBAs clients to think he sold out,” said from the Wharton School of the Grail president James Ross. University of Pennsylvania don’t fit the Ross said he and his son, Peter, the typical mold of a clothing manufacturer. head of design, want to grow the brand But Brian Cytrynbaum, 32, isn’t typical. organically by keeping a lid on distribu- He claims to run 13 companies in the avia- A paint-splattered tion and increasing its business with exist- tion, transportation, real estate and coffee T-shirt from Grail. ing accounts through product development, industries, not to mention Majestic Paris, a ver- especially pricier wares. It’s a strategy he’s tical mill that Jil Sander and Christian Dior turn to picked up as a veteran in the trade. He is a former for its competitively priced luxury Ts. It is one of vice president and director of Reebok and former owner of Cytrynbaum’s oldest ventures, and the 11-year-old French the Body Glove license for swim and apparel. Wholesale company opened its U.S. headquarters four months ago at volume at its 125 accounts, including Kitson in Los Angeles, the New Mart to better serve its American customers, in- Allston Beat in Boston and Scoop in New York, will hit $3.5 cluding Janet Brown and Intermix in New York, On million in its first year. Sunset in West Hollywood and Planet Blue in Malibu. In the next month, Grail will ship its treated leather There’s little the company doesn’t do in the way of the clutches, shoulder bags and doctor bags featuring the sourcing chain. It buys raw fibers, produces its own thread line’s art in screen prints. Wholesale prices range from and spins its own fabric, then cuts, sews and finishes the $250 to $350. Warm-up nylon acetate suits modeled after garments into crewnecks, V-necks, scoop necks, polos and classic Adidas and Pumas designs and splattered with long-sleeve shirts. Priding itself on basics (though it exper- paint will also hit stores. iments with new necklines and prints), Majestic focuses its Big chunky silver jewelry in pendants, bracelets and energy on churning out supple-soft fabrics done in flat and rings along with key chains and wallet chains will also mercerized formats, mostly in Tencel, fine Egyptian cot- ship to stores in time for the holidays. Wholesale prices tons and cashmere blends. It can even coat its yarn in range from $45 for rings to $1,000 for a wallet chain. Teflon, spinning it fine, weaving it into fabric, then remov- What’s new for the elder Ross this time is the ing the Teflon to help give a shirt a smooth, soft hand. celebrity vs. athlete tie-in. Stars such as Ashlee Simpson Wholesale prices range from $29 to $49. and Gwen Stefani are fans of the line, he said. Its efforts haven’t gone unnoticed. The firm generates “My son says it’s an important thing, but he won’t let $28 million in wholesale volume in the U.S and $85 million just anybody wear it,” said Ross. “It may be Lindsay worldwide, 60 percent of which comes from its private Lohan and not J.Lo. It just depends on their persona, label ventures. Stateside, that includes Barneys Co-op. where they shop and where they play.” 12 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Active LifestyleX Lucy Begins National Retail Push By Melanie Kletter Lucy, based in Portland, Ore., was founded in 1999 as lucy.com by former NEW YORK — Lucy Activewear Inc., the Nike merchant Sue Levine to be an online 15-store women’s retailer that started as purveyor of fashion-forward apparel, lucy.com, is trying to make a fresh begin- footwear and accessories for fitness-orient- ning after falling hard when the Internet ed women of all shapes and sizes. It was an bubble burst. investor darling in the beginning and flew The company last month relaunched its high on the Internet boom of the late e-commerce business and plans to more Nineties. However, after burning through than double its store count in the next year more than $30 million on marketing, adver- as part of an aggressive growth plan. With tising and other expenditures amid the estimated sales of about $15 million, Lucy crash of the Internet sector, the company in has also beefed up its management team, 2001 shut its Web site and cut the majority gained financing and revamped its appar- of its approximately 100 employees. In the el offerings to focus on private label as it last few years, the company has been rela- seeks to become a national retailer. tively quiet, opening a few stores each year Lucy stores are designed to be bright and upbeat. Michael J. Edwards, Lucy’s new president and “We think this concept has a lot of room in select locations such as Sacramento, chief executive officer. to grow,” said president and chief executive Palo Alto and Burlingame, all in California. officer Michael J. Edwards, who joined Lucy Now Lucy is readying for its next phase. Edwards said the company is consider- Retails prices average $40 to $50, but are in June. “There are not many stores catering “We saw that the new stores we have ing several potential store locales, includ- as high as $150 for outerwear. specifically to active women aged 35 to 55.” been opening were performing well, and ing malls, freestanding units and mixed- Lucy occupies a relatively untapped that the concept was viable,” said Bill use retail centers on the East and West niche in the retail landscape. While Younger, a Lucy board member and man- Coasts. Nine of its 15 stores are in there are several online and catalogue aging director at investment fund Sutter California; it also has units in Washington, merchants for active women, there are Hill Ventures, which provides financing Arizona and Texas. Last month it opened few stores that cater specifically to this for Lucy. “We brought in Mike Edwards a 1,900-square-foot store in Portland, Ore. segment. Among them are Nikewomen to take us to the next level.” The shops average about 2,200 square and to a lesser extent, Lady Foot Locker While it is not yet profitable, manage- feet and are merchandised under broad and Sports Authority. ment and investors say Lucy has poten- categories such as “workout essentials” “I always thought lucy.com was a clever tial. The company has also received and “bras,” with items that can be mixed concept, and the site has a great design, more than $10 million in new financing and matched. The stores are designed to and if they can translate that into bricks from Sutter, as well as Maveron LLC, Oak be bright and lively — each has an orange and mortar, they should do very well,” said Investment Partners, Lone Pine Capital awning and bold hues inside — and user- Ellen Wessel, president of Moving Comfort, and company management. friendly with a high level of customer serv- which is sold on the lucy.com Web site. “The chain is on a growth track and we ice, Edwards said. Edwards has been building Lucy’s think it could eventually be acquired or go The Lucy merchandise approach has management teams in merchandising, de- public,” Younger said. “Mike is known as evolved since its first incarnation. Many of sign and other areas. Bonnie Choruby, 40, a strong retail leader and we are already the offerings are lifestyle-focused and not has been promoted to senior vice presi- starting to see results from his leadership designed for a specific sport. “People’s view dent of merchandising from vice presi- in same-store sales and other areas.” of activewear has changed,” Edwards said. dent of merchandising. Kathleen McNally, Edwards, 43, was most recently execu- “Now it’s about lifestyle and having clothes 41, has been boosted to vice president and tive vice president of operations for Jo- that can be worn for a number of activities.” creative director from director of design. Ann Stores, the 900-unit craft chain. He The merchandise mix includes fewer Both are new posts. Levin is no longer in- began his career in the buying depart- brands and more private label merchan- volved in the day-to-day operations of the ment at May Co. before moving to Target, dise, which accounts for about 60 percent firm, but she is a member of the the board. where he worked in store merchandis- of the offerings. Among the other brands As it plans for the future, Lucy has ing. Edwards then joined CompUSA, Lucy carries are traditional sport labels clearly learned a few things from its past. Lucy has upped its where he moved through the ranks, even- such as Adidas, Nike and Puma, as well “E-commerce is important for us, but is offerings of private tually becoming a senior vice president. as yoga-oriented lines like Marika, Om not planned to be a big part of revenues,” label merchandise. He later joined West Marine, a boat re- Girl and Spiritual Fitness and outdoor said Younger, referring to the lucy.com site. tailer, as an executive vice president. labels, including Patagonia and Prana. “At this point, we see it as just another store.”

Man, a smaller-volume bikini exporter that also has 21 stores in Brazil, distinguishes itself in another way. “São Paulo makers produce more extravagant beachwear be- Brazilian Swim Makers Ride Demand cause they don’t understand the simplicity of beach cul- ture as we who live in it do,” said Alice Galiano, Blue By Michael Kepp “Our export sales are growing both because of our new Man’s commercial director. Miami and Lisbon stores and because the sophisticated, Blue Man’s 300-piece summer collection consists main- RIO DE JANEIRO — Everyone, it seems, wants a piece fashion-based look of our swimwear is boosting foreign de- ly of bikinis with basic cuts, vibrant colors and prints. This of Brazilian beach action. mand,” said Almir Slama, owner and designer of Rosa Chá. group’s colors appeal primarily to younger and lower-in- So, Brazilian beach and activewear makers are boost- Cia Marítima, a São Paulo beachwear designer and come consumers. Blue Man will export 25,000 items, or 5 ing exports, owing to increased demand abroad, espe- maker, which began exporting small quantities 10 years percent of its output, in 2004, an increase from 3 percent cially for bikinis that reflect what’s in style in the coun- ago, this year will export 400,000 in 2003, and plans to export 6 percent try where the design was born. Brazil’s economy, flat items, or 20 percent of its output, in 2005. At an average export price of since 2001, is only now beginning to improve and hasn’t compared with 16 percent in 2003. $15 an item, the company expects to yet boosted domestic market sales for the category. But The company expects to boost ex- garner an estimated $375,000 in export foreign demand has encouraged makers to sail abroad. ports to 24 percent of its output in revenues this year. Rosa Chá, one of the hottest names in Brazilian beach- 2005. With an average wholesale Osklen, a Rio de Janeiro-based wear, with 24 wholly owned stores and franchises, began price of $20 a bikini, the company activewear maker with 45 stores, exporting around 1,000 bikinis annually seven years ago. will generate an estimated $8 million began exporting 24,000 items a year, This year, the company will export about 78,000 units, or in export revenues this year. or 3 percent of output, in 2002. This 13 percent of its output, up from 10.5 percent in 2003. It Cia Marítima exports 60 percent of year, it will export 15 percent, or expects to boost exports to 16 percent of output next year. its bikinis to Europe and 40 percent to 120,000 items, and aims to export 30 Rosa Chá, which shows in New York’s 7th on Sixth the rest of Latin America. The compa- percent (240,000 items) in 2005. Its Fashion Week, is now shipping 55 percent of its exports ny plans to begin selling to the U.S. average export price of $20 trans- to the U.S., where it is sold in about 150 stores — includ- market, where it is studying distribu- lates to about $2.4 million this year. ing Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Barneys New tion options, next year, and hopes to Osklen’s main export market is York — and a franchised store that opened in Miami last place its product in high-end stores Europe, especially Portugal. It also has December. The company is also now in a joint venture such as Saks and Bloomingdale’s. 40 clients in the U.S. where it is setting with Oceanfront Properties, a division of A.H. Schreiber, Though its products are lower-priced Looks from Cia Marítima and Rosa Chá. up a distribution network. To increase which is now distributing the line in North America. than Rosa Chá’s, Cia Marítima also its U.S. visibility, Osklen for the first The company’s second-largest export market is produces fashion-influenced beachwear with details such time took part in two American trade shows this year — Europe, with 60 sales points, including Paris’ Au as metallic designs and embroidery. Carlos Eduardo Fashion Coterie in New York and DNA in Los Angeles. Printemps and La Samaritaine department stores, and Queiroz, the company’s export director, said exports were Osklen exports a mix of bikinis, surf and snowboarding a franchised store in Lisbon, which opened in increasing because “foreigners, especially Europeans, are apparel and casualwear, in mostly tropical-print motifs December 2002. This year, the export collection has increasingly looking for stylish new trends in bikinis, and and vibrant colors, according to Osklen commercial direc- motifs ranging from flowers to geometric prints, fea- they know that Brazil is the birthplace of these trends.” tor Claudia Guimarães. “We expect to double exports next tures pieces with numerous straps, embroidery and It’s not only the giant makers that are able to take ad- year because foreigners have taken to the tropical, Rio de mermaid-like paillettes and is fashion-inspired. vantage of foreign markets. Rio de Janeiro-based Blue Janeiro personality of our activewear,” she said. ROSA CHA PHOTO BY FERNANDA CALFAT ROSA CHA PHOTO BY WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2004 13 WWW.WWD.COM TheWWDList

With the resurgence of the luxury market, space on the most popular shopping streets in the world is getting tighter and tighter. Fifth Avenue with the highest rents, retains its designer cachet but more moderately-priced retailers are muscling World w ide Ret a i l Rents in. Grafton Street jumped from 10th to fifth place, a reflection of Ireland’s growing The 10 streets with the highest retail rents in the world. affluence. Meanwhile, Japan’s Ginza, with a spate of new megaflagships and shoppers with an appetite for designer goods, shot up to ninth place from 15. FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK $950 per square foot Fifth Avenue rents are not for the fainthearted. Increasingly, chains that appeal to a broad customer base are digging into their deep pockets to fund flagships. H&M in 2000 planted its flag on Fifth Avenue and 51st Street, and Liz Claiborne in 2003 turned its Fifth Avenue and 52nd Street store 1 into the first U.S. unit of Mexx. Zara opened a flagship in September between 54th and 55th Streets and Abercrombie & Fitch is taking over Fendi’s store at 720 Fifth Avenue.

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSEES, PARIS $711 per square foot The Champs-Elysées continues to attract both moderately priced brands and luxury tenants, resulting in a mix that appeals to the hoards of tourists who flock to the street. In addition to a Virgin Megastore, which stays open until midnight, and a Louis Vuitton flagship, Adidas and Go Sport, the 2 French sports chain, recently signed deals for 50,000-square-foot spaces on the street. Hugo Boss and Lancel are opening stores in the next few months and H&M is said to be looking for a space on the street.

CAUSEWAY BAY, HONG KONG $569 per square foot Causeway Bay is benefiting from an influx of tourists from mainland China drawn by the availability of luxury goods and the allure of prices that are about 40 percent cheaper. In addition to department stores Sogo, Lane Crawford and Mitsukoshi, boutiques such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, 3 Salvatore Ferragamo, Hermès and Christian Dior have outposts in the neighborhood. Causeway Bay appeals to bargain hunters, as well, with Jardine’s Crescent and Lee Garden Road.

OXFORD STREET, LONDON $517 per square foot Oxford Street from Marble Arch to Oxford Circus is home to department stores such as Selfridges, Debenhams and House of Fraser. The street has big international players, including Monsoon and Zara, and homegrown fashion chains such as New Look, Topshop, French Connection and Next. 4 But the tattiness of some of the retailers has the local council looking at a makeover for the street. Urban Outfitters in September opened a 15,000- square-foot flagship and Adidas is set to arrive on Oxford Street later this month.

GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN $381 per square foot Grafton Street shot up from the 10th slot on last year’s list, in part a function of Ireland’s status as one of the wealthiest countries in the world with a gross domestic product ahead of the U.K. Brown Thomas, Selfridges and Weirs, a Dublin jewelry institution, uphold the luxury banner, while 5 HMV, Next, Jigsaw, Warehouse and Monsoon are drawing a more populist crowd. Marks & Spencer, one of the U.K.’s largest retailers, has baked goods, home products, a beauty hall and private label fashion. Selfridges sells contemporary designer fashion, beauty, food and home goods and is increasingly appealing to young customers.

KAUFINGERSTRASSE, MUNICH $332 per square foot Kaufingerstrasse is still the most expensive and heavily frequented shopping street in Munich. In the last year, H&M took over the former Gap store, after that chain pulled out of Europe. Douglas also moved from one part of the street to another. Hettlage changed its mixed apparel 6 assortment to a new women’s-only Hettlage Piazza concept. Benetton will move into a newly constructed building on the site where an older structure is being torn down, and S. Oliver in 2006 will be moving into a new building where Salamander formerly stood. DEREK CATTANI/CORBIS; DUBLIN BY TIBOR BOGNAR/CORBIS; DUBLIN BY DEREK CATTANI/CORBIS; JOSE FUSTE RAGA/CORBIS; SEOUL BY MICHAEL SETBOUN/CORBIS SEOUL BY JOSE FUSTE RAGA/CORBIS;

TVERSKAYA, MOSCOW $325 per square foot Despite political and economic uncertainty, well-to-do Russians haven’t curbed their taste for luxury goods. With the Russian economy enjoying growth, everyone from J.Lo to Louis Vuitton wants a piece of the retail action. Tverskaya Street, a favorite shopping destination for young 7 Muscovites, boasts a GUM satellite store, Diesel and a new 2,000-square-foot Levi’s flagship.

PITT STREET MALL, SYDNEY $321 per square foot Pitt Street Mall is home to shopping centers such as Sydney Central Plaza and the newer Sydney Arcade. The mall boasts The Strand, built in 1892, 8 which houses Australian fashion brands including Zambelli Donna and Adam Dixon, and home stores like Past Present Future, which showcases Italian designers such as Alessi and Mandarin Duck. The major department stores David Jones and Grace have entrances on Pitt Street. The foot traffic — about 500,000 people a week — qualifies the mall as one of the busiest retail stretches in the world.

GINZA, TOKYO $311 per square foot Luxury brands are building megaflagships on the Ginza, a testament to the Japanese penchant for luxury products and the staying power of one of the city’s premier streets. Christian Dior in October opened its largest store in Asia on the Ginza. The 10,300-square-foot flagship is spread over six 9 floors and one underground level. Chanel in December is opening a three-story unit housed in the company’s new 14-floor tower.

MYEONGDONG, SEOUL $301 per square foot Myeongdong, in the heart of Seoul, is home to banks and brokerage firms and Western and traditional restaurants. It’s also known as South Korea’s 10 fashion street, with its luxury boutiques and department stores. Other shopping streets in Seoul, such as Namdaemun and Dongdaemun Market, are populated with retailers selling low-priced products. FIFTH AVENUE PHOTO BY J.A. GIORDANO/CORBIS SABA; PARIS BY JOSE FUSTE RAGA/CORBIS; HONG KONG BY REED KAESTNER/CORBIS; LONDON BY BY REED KAESTNER/CORBIS; LONDON BY HONG KONG JOSE FUSTE RAGA/CORBIS; BY J.A. GIORDANO/CORBIS SABA; PHOTO BY FIFTH PARIS AVENUE BY TOKYO SERGIO PITAMITZ/CORBIS; BAH/CORBIS; SYDNEY BY DAVID PETER JORDAN/TIME LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES; MOSCOW BY MUNICH BY SOURCE: CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD 14 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Strong Sales Boost Polo’s Earnings 48.9%

By Vicki M. Young Polo Ralph “This touches all pieces of manufacturing and whole- sale in the company,” Farah explained. “We could be over- Lauren’s NEW YORK — Investments made to its brand and opera- sold on an item in Europe and undersold in the U.S. The tions are paying off in a big way for Polo Ralph Lauren latest retail product is made in the same factory, with no way of match- Corp., which delivered robust second-quarter sales and push: Rugby. ing up supply and demand. With the right system at the earnings on Wednesday. point of manufacture, we can redirect the product to where Management said results were boosted by the inclu- it’s needed and reduce excess inventory.” sion of the women’s Lauren by Ralph Lauren line, and Ralph Lauren, chairman and chief executive officer, the successful integration of RL Childrenswear, a former told Wall Street he was pleased with the expansion of licensee, into the wholesale business. A sales gain in Polo’s “luxury position.” He was referring in part to the Europe along with the repositioning of the Polo brand in company’s new flagship in Milan, which opened in select department and specialty stores also bolstered the September, which gives Polo a new site to highlight both top and bottom lines. its men’s and women’s collections. Lauren also noted the In turn, net income jumped 48.9 percent in the quar- recent launch of the firm’s new brand, Rugby, which tar- ter ended Oct. 2 to $80.4 million, or 78 cents a diluted gets a younger customer with a point of view that is share, from $54 million, or 54 cents, in the same year-ago “cooler, hipper and has an attitude.” quarter. Excluding restructuring charges and currency For now, the company is content in proceeding slowly translation gains, income was $79 million, or 76 cents a with Rugby. Four or five stores are slated for next year. diluted share, versus $52.9 million, or 52 cents, last year. But after the strong response of the Boston opening last Total revenues rose 24.9 percent to $883.7 million from week, the firm may expand the flag here and abroad. $707.8 million, which included a 16.6 percent decline in Meanwhile, as Ralph Lauren stores continue to post licensing revenue to $62.1 million and a 29.7 percent healthy comps, Farah said the better and moderate busi- spike in sales to $821.5 million. Sales included a 49.5 per- ness at the department store level is softer in the fall cent increase in wholesale sales to $502.6 million and a than in spring. He said while spring and summer orders 7.4 percent increase in retail sales to $319 million. remain good, there is a likelihood that retailers — “We believe the results are a culmination of several because of the new players entering the marketplace — layers of sticking to our strategy, whether it’s investment sales in hurricane-affected areas, same-store sales rose will be forced to evaluate how many better lines they can in time and energy put into our retail business or inte- 3.7 percent overall, with a 14.2 percent rise in Ralph support. Farah predicted Lauren will be a long-term grating the kids line or Lauren,” said Roger Farah, pres- Lauren stores and a 4.4 percent gain at Club Monaco winner as retailers edit down their lines. ident and chief operating officer. “We’ve cleaned up dis- stores. The gain in comps was on top of an overall 8.3 For the six-month period, income skyrocketed 58.8 tribution so the product is getting more scarce, giving [us] percent increase in the year-ago quarter. percent to $93.8 million, or 91 cents a diluted share, from better sell-throughs, in addition to our marketing and The company continues to flow fresh fashions into the $59.1 million, or 59 cents, a year ago, while total rev- design of the product. It is all coming together nicely department stores and its own freestanding stores on a enues jumped 24.5 percent to $1.48 billion from $1.19 bil- even in a choppy retail environment.” regular basis, a move that’s driving a greater percentage lion last year, which included a 12.6 percent decline in Licensing revenue declined due to the company’s of sales at full price. In addition, the company is in the licensing income. Total sales jumped 29.4 percent to buyback of its Lauren and its RL Childrenswear licens- process of implementing a new global wholesale and $1.36 billion, which included a 49 percent hike in whole- es, both of which added to the company’s wholesale vol- manufacturing system that will help it better forecast sale sales to $741.6 million and an 11.6 percent increase ume. The company said that, despite losing $6 million in global demand and move product to where it’s needed. in retail sales to $615.8 million.

Kleinfeld’s Brooklyn Lauder’s Net Leaps 23.4% in Qtr. Locale. By Ross Tucker company’s top seller, gaining 20 per- cent in local currencies to end the NEW YORK — After Estée Lauder Cos. quarter at $599.5 million. According to posted a 23.4 percent earnings gain for the company, new products such as the first quarter, William Lauder, presi- Superbalanced Compact Makeup SPF dent and chief executive officer, 20 and Clinique’s line of Colour Surge assured Wall Street during a confer- products spurred sales. ence call Wednesday that the company’s Sales of skin care products, the com- fragrance division was well positioned pany’s second-largest segment, rose 9 heading into a crucial holiday season. percent in local currencies to $524.3 “The month of December represents million. Again, management credited 30 percent of annual fragrance sales in the gain with the launch of two new U.S. department stores,” said Lauder, products: Future Perfect Anti-Wrinkle who added that Lauder Beyond Radiance Creme SPF 15 and Hydra Paradise for men, Hilfiger’s True Star, Complete Multi-Level Moisture Creme. DKNY Be Delicious and the new Fragrance sales proved to be the Trump fragrance would make their hol- lone blemish in an otherwise strong iday season debuts this year. quarter, with sales declining 9 percent Still, management remains cautious in local currencies to $311.7 million. after a report by The NPD Group indicat- “While the current quarter benefit- ing a 5 percent decline in overall fra- ed from the launches of Lauder Beyond Kleinfeld Adds Manhattan Address grance sales at U.S. Paradise for men, department stores for True Star by Tommy By David Moin the quarter. Hilfiger and initial “We are putting BEAUTY BEAT shipments of DKNY NEW YORK — Kleinfeld, the famed Brooklyn bridal store, is expanding into tremendous emphasis Be Delicious, they Manhattan, WWD has learned. on improving the profitability of the cat- were up against a strong fragrance The privately held bridal emporium is opening its first Kleinfeld Bridesmaids’ egory, which is today substantially below launch business in the prior year,” said Loft, at 270 West 38th Street, within the next two weeks. the corporate average,” said Patrick William Lauder during the call. In addition, the company is seeking a Manhattan location for a Kleinfeld bridal Bousquet-Chavanne, group president of Sales of hair care products, led by branch store. A source said the company has been examining sites in the Chelsea Estée Lauder. “We have several initia- Aveda and Bumble and bumble, rose neighborhood, including one on 18th Street. tives supported by operation and mar- 14 percent in local currencies to $63.1 “We always wanted to have a satellite store, and we’re hoping for one in 2005, but I keting that aim at improving our cost of million. can’t confirm anything at this time,” Mara Urshel, co-owner, said Wednesday. sales over the next three years.” By geographic region, sales in Urshel did, however, confirm details of the Kleinfeld Bridesmaids’ Loft concept. “We Despite global fragrance market woes, Europe, the Middle East and Africa closed the bridesmaids’ department in Brooklyn, but we still have such a demand for booming sales in Estée Lauder’s overseas rose 20 percent in local currencies to bridesmaids dresses, so we have been sending our customers everywhere else,” Urshel business continued to fuel earnings. $423.8 million, thanks to a resurgence said. “A bridesmaid business runs better separately than in a main store, because the For the period ended Sept. 30, the in the company’s travel-retail business. girls come in at different times, many are flying in from all over the country, and you New York-based beauty products giant Double-digit sales increases in need a lot of space to run a bridesmaid department. The decision to buy a bridesmaid reported earnings of $95 million, or 41 China, Hong Kong, Australia and dress is not made at the same time that a bride buys her dress.” cents a diluted share, outpacing Wall Taiwan led Asia/Pacific sales up 10 per- She said the Bridesmaids’ Loft is on the 20th floor of the building on 38th Street, Street’s consensus estimate of 37 cents cent to $192.1 million. which is between Seventh and Eighth Avenues. It will have about 6,000 square feet a share. Comparatively, earnings in Sales in the Americas rose 4 per- of space, with ample fitting rooms and a focus on customer service, Urshel said. the prior year came in at $77 million, cent to $888.2 million. “Consumer In the five and a half years that Urshel, along with co-owner Ronald Rothstein, have or 33 cents. spending was somewhat lackluster in owned Kleinfeld, there has been a turnaround, including improved sales and customer Sales for the most recent quarter the U.S. with some retailers experienc- service. Volume is said to be around $25 million, but Urshel would not confirm a figure. increased 11.7 percent to $1.5 billion from ing hurricane-related difficulties,” The Bridesmaids’ Loft will initially sell three labels: Lazaro, Alvina Valenta and $1.25 billion in the same period a year said Lauder. “The most impressive Jim Hjelm. “There will be a complete size representation in the samples we are ago. Excluding the positive impact of cur- growth was seen at high-end specialty showing from each collection,” Urshel said. rency exchange, sales rose 9 percent. stores where we sell the greatest The Kleinfeld flagship is located at 8202 Fifth Avenue in the Bay Ridge section of Makeup retained its spot as the breadth of our portfolio.” Brooklyn. Hermès leather Kelly bag | $5050 800-441-4488

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AT YOUR SERVICE for advertising information, please contact Craig Kaplan at 212-630-4937. 16 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2004 Industry Sees Trade, Taxes a Continued from page one apparel and textiles said they are counting on four President Bush and First Lady Laura Bush more years of the U.S. aggressively pursuing interna- at a rally at the Ronald Reagan Building. tional trade pacts that lower or eliminate tariffs. In ad- dition, they said sending the Central American Free Trade Agreement to Congress for a vote could be among the president’s first trade initiatives in his second term. “He’s not running for reelection again and he doesn’t have to please his [political] base,’’ said Kevin Burke, president and chief executive officer of the American Apparel & Footwear Association. “I’m very hopeful we’ll have an administration that is completely free trade.” During a speech to the nation from the Ronald Reagan Building in Washington, Bush said, “We will continue our economic progress. We’ll reform our out- dated tax code. We’ll strengthen Social Security for the next generation.” The President and Kerry, who will return to the U.S. Senate, also sounded themes of national unity after a long, expensive and rancorous campaign. “We have one country, one Constitution and one fu- ture binds us,’’ Bush said. Kerry, speaking outside historic Faneuil Hall in Boston, said: “In the days ahead, we must find common cause. We must join in common effort, without remorse or recrimination, without anger or rancor.” Bush’s election to a second term, with his Republican Party increasing its majority in the House and Senate, suggests some policy certainties, industry executives said. The president, in concert with GOP lawmakers in Congress, can press for a simplified federal tax code and push to make permanent his earlier tax cuts, such as the reduction of inheritance taxes. Likewise, there is a shared agenda between GOP leadership in Congress and the White House to lower health care costs, particularly for businesses shouldering double-digit increases to pay for employee policies. The President still faces some familiar roadblocks and adversaries. On trade, the U.S. is being pressured at the World Trade Organization and in the negotiations for the Free Trade Area of the Americas to eliminate cash subsidies for U.S. farmers before other countries agree to lower their tariffs on imports. Eliminating farm subsidies, like those enjoyed by cotton farmers and cotton textile producers, would re- Worker Health Care Prop. quire Bush to face down GOP and Democratic backers of GARY HERSHORN/LANDOV PHOTO BY the payouts. The 10-year cost would be $1 trillion. Also in Congress, Voted Down in California But Republicans and Democratic skeptics on Capitol Republican lawmakers from LOS ANGELES — California voters on Tuesday rejected Election Hill who oppose more cuts have said the federal budget manufacturing states such as Proposition 72, which would have mandated companies with can’t sustain additional loss of revenue, given the $400 Ohio and North Carolina are more than 50 employees to pay at least 80 percent of billion deficit and continued cost of the war in Iraq. wary of expanding interna- private health insurance premiums for the workers. 2004 Another argument being made against the need for tional trade without checks Wal-Mart last week contributed $600,000 to fight the tax cuts is the growing economy, which perked up in the to ensure fair competition for measure several days after supporters of Prop 72 began textile imports. In contrast, last year and saw Gross Domestic Product in the third American producers. Such running a television ad alleging that taxpayers in the state spent DeMint supports Bush’s quarter grow at 3.3 percent. In addition, retail sales last opposition, coupled with that $32 million last year toward providing health care to Wal-Mart free-trade agenda and has month increased 1.5 percent overall, including an 0.8 of Democrats, could threaten workers. The opposition comes as Wal-Mart, which had sales of snubbed the textile indus- percent boost for sales at apparel and accessories congressional renewal this $256 billion last year, seeks to blunt opposition to its growth in try’s calls for more caution stores, which is 4 percent higher than the previous year. summer of the President’s lucrative markets in the most populous U.S. state, where it in expanding trade. Plans to streamline the tax code are being closely Trade Promotion Authority, wants to build 40 Supercenters in the next several years. Augustine Tantillo, exec- watched by retailers who fear a national sales tax, which is seen as crucial to “Although the proposition was never about Wal-Mart, the utive director of the which the President has talked about informally, might getting foreign countries to proponents used Wal-Mart to try and unfairly mislead voters,” American Manufacturing figure prominently. Retailers see a national sales tax re- negotiate trade deals. Having said Wal-Mart spokesman Pete Kanelos. “Ultimately, it would Trade Action Coalition, placing the entire tax system would amount to a levy of TPA means that Congress have limited the choices that companies offered to their with textile mills as mem- more than 30 percent on all goods and services, in addi- can’t amend trade pacts after employees and been a costly government-mandated health bers, said Bush officials tion to sales taxes, and hamper consumer spending. they are negotiated and only care plan for both Wal-Mart and the citizens of California.’’ have so far been open to “There has to be a careful vetting as to how the ad- vote to approve or disap- — Michelle Dalton Tyree considering petitions to ministration moves in respect to tax reform,” said Steve prove them. TPA passed the limit mounting Chinese im- Pfister, senior vice president with government relations House by one vote in 2001. ports of certain apparel at the National Retail Federation. While the election swept at least five more trade- and textiles. However, in a second term, a president Bush also will have to tackle soaring health care costs. friendly GOP members into the House and four into the isn’t “beholden to anyone in any constituency,” he said. The financial drag on business and the economy from em- Senate, “President Bush still has to contend with some “There is a higher degree of insulation.” ployee health care, as well as the uninsured, is a key issue members of his own party having free-trade willies,” Keith Hull, president of marketing and sales at Avondale cited by executives affecting bottom lines. Some 44 mil- said Bob Litan, a senior fellow in economic studies at Mills Inc., said he expected to see a second Bush adminis- lion Americans are uninsured and are expected this year the Brookings Institution. tration continue to pursue its trade-liberalization ideals. to generate an estimated $41 billion in uncompensated Litan said the falling value of the U.S. dollar should “The Bush agenda has been more proactively free treatment — 85 percent paid by federal, state and local help Bush sell his trade agenda. A cheaper dollar means trade,” he said. “It looks like here recently, they’re offer- governments — and accounting for about one-third of the export prices decline and boosts their volume, while in- ing some help to our industry in looking at the safe- total $125 billion in total U.S. health care costs, according creasing import prices and decreasing their volume. guards built into the WTO, which we appreciate and to the Kaiser Family Foundation. Nevertheless, Litan said progress on Bush’s ambi- recognize. But overall, they haven’t been as interested Bush plans to ask Congress to create tax-free health tious trade-expanding agenda — it includes plans for at in our interest as we’d hoped they’d be.” care savings accounts. Under the plan, consumers would least a dozen free trade pacts — may be limited. The Graniteville, S.C.-based executive noted that the have lower health care premiums because of lower de- “Instead of grand leaps forward, it will inch forward,’’ retirement of Hollings was also a blow. DeMint defeated ductibles. The accounts would be used to pick up health he said. “The whole trade train has slowed down from an Inez Tenenbaum, the state’s school superintendent, who expenses not covered by insurance, which Bush argues express to a local.” had been backed by several textile concerns. would stimulate wiser health care decisions and reduce The U.S. textile industry, which seems more limited At the top of Bush’s agenda are tax reform and tax unneeded treatments. by the election results, will continue to pressure the ad- cuts. He pressed Congress in his first term to pass al- Bush’s health plan would cover 8.2 million new peo- ministration. Textile executives were disappointed by most $3 trillion in tax reductions as a means to boost a ple, a 17 percent reduction of the uninsured, and in- the election of Republican Jim DeMint as a senator from slowing economy. Now Bush wants to make permanent crease federal costs by $277.5 billion, according to The South Carolina to replace long-time Democrat Ernest $1.9 million of the trims, which are set to expire at the Lewin Group, a nonpartisan health care consulting “Fritz’’ Hollings, a proponent of limiting apparel and end of 2010 and include eliminating inheritance taxes. firm. States would pay less health care under the plan, a WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2004 17 Adidas Earnings Gain 19% PARIS — Adidas-Salomon AG on Wednesday said a pickup in the U.S. market along with strong growth in Asia drove as Bush Priorities third-quarter profits up 19 percent. But the German footwear and apparel company gave reduction of $20 billion under Bush. designer B. Michael, who pointed to a recent press disappointing order outlooks for Europe, and its stock lost Another proposal, from Senate majority leader Bill clipping that singled out one of his designs as an ap- 2.15 percent to close at 111.79 euros, or $143.35, in trading Frist (R., Tenn.), would expand on Bush’s plans by giv- propriate choice for Heinz Kerry if her husband had on the Deutsche Börse in Frankfurt. ing tax incentives to individuals who buy their own won. “But I think that for years, there has been little Adidas said net income for the three months ended health care insurance and create association health impact of politics on the fashion industry. Fashion Sept. 30 was 179 million euros, or $218.9 million, up from plans to help small businesses afford coverage. hasn’t been on anyone’s political agenda, whereas in 150 million euros, or $169 million, a year ago, as sales Paul Kelly, senior vice president for federal and state other countries, such as France, fashion is supported gained 5 percent to 1.95 billion euros, or $2.38 billion. government affairs at the Retail Industry Leaders and sponsored by the government.” Figures have been converted using average exchange for Association, said increased GOP majorities in the Alvin Valley, who was among a group of designers the corresponding periods. Senate and House will result in Republicans achieving, —along with Michael Kors, Kenneth Cole, Diane von Adidas chief executive Herbert Hainer said the firm at least in part, their health care agenda. Republicans Furstenberg and Nanette Lepore — who chaired a was “on track” to reach a full-year earnings target for 20 gained four seats in the Senate to 55 against 44 Kerry-Edwards benefit last month, said, “I was sur- percent growth. Democrats and one Independent. In the House, with prised by the results and I was disappointed, but I’m Adidas said overall order backlogs in the quarter grew some results still outstanding, the party gained at least back at work and either way I’m still dealing with my by 2 percent, driven by a 23 percent increase in Asia. But four seats for a 233-seat majority against 200 Democrats. business. As far as social issues, whether it’s gay the company reported a 4 percent decline in order back- “You will have a president who can legitimately rights or whatever, I haven’t been focusing on that as logs for Europe. claim a mandate even though it was a close election much as the economy. It’s important to get the U.S. “This shortfall was mainly due to the increasingly difficult because he clearly won the popular vote,” Kelly said. on a strong economic base right now.” retail environment in most major markets,” Hainer said. For organized labor, Bush’s second term means One of the few New York designers backing Bush Hainer said backlog orders would also fall short in the another uphill battle over increasing the $5.15 hourly was Michael Vollbracht of Bill Blass, who said, “I’m fourth quarter because of “the situation in Germany and Italy.” federal minimum wage, ensuring strong labor and en- not a politician, I’m a designer. But I believe this is He remained confident that orders would improve in vironmental provisions in free-trade agreements and good for the country. As long as it helps the fashion early 2005. Adidas said it expects earnings growth of 10 to immigration reform. In his first term, Bush sought re- business, and it helps people who are rich and who 15 percent in 2005. peal in Congress of ergonomic repetitive motion in- help people within their companies, I’m for it. I’m Meanwhile, Adidas said it would recall 200,000 sneak- jury safety rules enacted by President Bill Clinton for money filtering down so that everyone has a job.” ers. It said the return of the Superstar Ultra and Pro Team and overhauled Depression-era rules deciding what Bud Konheim, president and ceo of Nicole Miller, Voluntary models would cost between 5 million and 10 mil- type of work qualifies employees for overtime pay. isn’t expecting any major transformations during the lion euros, or $6.4 million and $12.8 million. The friction between a business-friendly Bush ad- President’s second term. “No change in the adminis- — Emilie Marsh ministration and organized labor reached a crescen- tration, no change in the economy,” he said. “The do last June when James Hoffa, president of the country had a chance to make a change and didn’t. I International Brotherhood of Teamsters, resigned think it will be business as usual.” from his post on the President’s Advisory Committee He said fourth-quarter sales will be a better indi- on Trade Policy and Negotiations. The committee cator of the President’s impact on the economy than gives advice on trade policy to the administration the stock market’s post-election surge. All in all, “the Jean Paul Gaultier Begins and Hoffa quit after Bush signed CAFTA, accusing economy will come around because the cycle brings the President of ignoring labor’s advice. it around — not because of policy,” Konheim said. Bush has said he would consider a proposal to in- Hal Upbin, chairman and ceo of Kellwood Co., crease the minimum wage that’s spread out over sev- who supported Bush, said, “Since he’s come in with Talks for Restructuring eral years, but organized labor said that would make the tax cuts, the economy has been positive.” its effect meaningless. However, Upbin added, “No one can be support- By Robert Murphy Bruce Raynor, president of UNITE HERE, said: ive on the way he’s handled the war.” “This is just one election and we are extremely disap- Chet Hazzard, vice chairman and chief operating PARIS — Jean Paul Gaultier is restructuring to save its pointed in the results. On the one hand, we will con- officer of Vera Wang, said, “Wall Street likes stability, money-losing haute couture business. tinue to have an administration that is antiworker and so I think Bush staying on will cause it to react posi- The house said talks had started with its workers’ com- antiunion and that is very bad for working people. On tively, certainly on a short-term basis. It’s good for mittee, a required practice here, to approve measures that the other hand, the administration will continue to de- the economy, especially with fourth-quarter retail- would help nudge it out of the red. stroy the social safety net in society and that creates ing. Luxury is in very good shape. We’re expecting Gaultier, which is 35 percent owned by Hermès, the two things: more employers will feel emboldened to very strong fourth-quarter sales.” French luxury firm, employs 175 people. treat workers poorly, which clearly makes our recruit- Wall Street reacted well to the outcome. The “We’ve run up the stairs two at a time,” said Gaultier ment organizing efforts bear some fruit.” Standard & Poor’s 500 Index reached its highest president Donald Potard. “Now we need to catch our Many Seventh Avenue designers were behind point since June 23, increasing 12.66, or 1.1 percent, breath to continue operating all of our activities.” Kerry and supported him with contributions, some to close at 1143.20. The Dow Jones Industrial Potard said negotiations with the workers’ group could even hosting benefits on his behalf. Bush’s victory was Average rose 101.32, or 1 percent, to 10,137.05 and the stretch into early next year. disappointing to them, although several chose their Nasdaq Composite Index went up 19.54, or 1 percent, The house experienced a loss last year — its first since words carefully or declined to comment. The winning to 2004.33, its highest level since July 2. 1991 — on retail sales of about 570 million euros, or $724 party still requires an inaugural wardrobe, after all. — With contributions from Eric Wilson, million, Potard said. Figures have been converted at cur- “My biggest disappointment is that Teresa Heinz Rosemary Feitelberg, Scott Malone rent exchange rates. Kerry is not going to need a dress,” said eveningwear and Evan Clark, New York He declined to pinpoint the amount of the loss, but said the house would lose money again this year. Potard said he expect- ed his restructuring plan to put the house in the black in 2005. Potard blamed a tough economic environment. “We are not in dire straits,” he said. “But we need to act. Over the Committee to Review 5 Safeguard Petitions last three years we’ve made a lot of investments. They coin- cided with a tough economy.” Since 1999, when Hermès paid $23.4 million for its stake By Kristi Ellis in Gaultier, the house has invested to open stores, add WASHINGTON — The Bush administration turned up the pressure on China Wednesday as the interagency Committee for products and develop couture. This spring Gaultier moved the Implementation of Textile Agreements said it would review five safeguard petitions seeking to impose quota limits on into a grand 50,000-square-foot building on the Rue Saint 10 apparel categories, valued at $940 million. Martin on the Right Bank. The petitions cover cotton and man-made fiber underwear, women’s and men’s man-made fiber knit shirts and blouses, woven Meanwhile, Gaultier deepened his relationship with cotton and man-made fiber shirts, men’s and women’s cotton knit shirts and men’s and women’s man-made fiber trousers. Hermès last year by assuming the brand’s women’s ready- The textile and apparel coalition, joined by UNITE HERE, which brought the petitions, is racking up procedural victo- to-wear reins from Martin Margiela, the experimental ries as CITA agreed to review the first safeguard petitions based on the threat of market disruption. Belgian designer. China agreed to the safeguard measure when it joined the World Trade Organization in 2001. At that point, the group Potard said the house hoped to continue all of its opera- was more than halfway through its 10-year phaseout of quotas on textiles and apparel, which the WTO’s 148 members will tions, including the couture, the Parisian institution that drop on Jan. 1. CITA has accepted for review six petitions, including one on cotton trousers on Monday. The acceptance for has been weakened recently as houses such as Yves Saint full review triggers a 30-day comment period, which will be followed by 60 days to make a determination. Laurent, Balmain, Versace and Emanuel Ungaro have hung Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, said, “We think it is an initial up their hats. Gaultier justifies its unprofitable couture op- recognition that there has been a tremendous amount of work and research done on our part to demonstrate that China eration by the publicity and international notoriety it gen- poses a real threat.” erates. The house employs 60 couture workers. Cass Johnson, president of the National Council of Textile Organizations, said in a statement, “The six petitions now ac- “It’s been tough going for many French houses,” said cepted are where the rubber meets the road in determining whether the textile industries in the U.S., the Western Potard. “Some have closed. We are taking the steps neces- Hemisphere and the rest of the developing world will be given a fair chance to compete once quotas are removed. sary to save all of our businesses. We are dedicated to cou- Hundreds of thousands of jobs are at stake as well as the principle of fair play in textile trade. That’s why we need the U.S. ture, but we need to act.” government to approve these petitions early in 2005.” Consolidated sales at Gaultier declined 8 percent to 28 mil- In 2003, U.S. manufacturers produced more than $17.5 billion in trousers and shirts, according to the coalition, which lion euros, or $35.6 million, in 2003, according to the Hermès includes AMTAC, the NCTO, the National Textile Association, SEAMS, the National Cotton Council and the American Fiber International annual report. Royalties from licensed products Manufacturers Association. — rtw, knitwear, jeans, fragrances, watches, eyewear and Retail and importing associations oppose the concept of threat-based petitions and claim the Bush administration beachwear — generated half of that sum. Gaultier produces needs to file new guidelines for these types of petitions. So far, their calls have not produced new guidelines. jewelry, shoes, leather goods, scarves and ties in-house. “While we anticipated that the administration would accept the petitions and move forward with the review, we certainly Gaultier operates a dozen shops, most franchised, in are very disappointed,” said Julia Hughes, vice president of international trade at the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles cities including Singapore, Taipei, Beijing, Hong Kong, and Apparel. “We will certainly press for a different outcome, but having seen what happened we have an uphill battle.” Tokyo, New York, Paris and London. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2004

Assistant Buyer DESIGNER ILLUSTRATOR - Freelance Men’s RTW Luxury Italian Brand seeks Freelance Designer Seeking Freelance Illustrator/Sketch individual w/2-3 years Asst. Buyer exp. to Denim Co seeks indiv to design jeans. Artist for T-shirt project. Fax / E-mail to: maintain transfers and process deliveries. Eye for trends. Fax resume 212-764-1577 212-255-6942 / [email protected] CLOSEOUTS WANTED Luxury goods bkgrnd a +; salary $45-65K. DESIGNER Any Fabrics Wanted. Upholsteries, Trims. Fax or E-mail resume to: 212-750-5570 Remnants OK. Please call: [email protected] Freelance Designer Import Traffic Mgr. 212-243-4913 Private Label Company seeks organ- Est’d. Sweater Co. seeks hard working Back Room Manager ized individual to create a better sports- team player to track overseas shipments. wear coordinated knitwear line. Must Work w/agents, brokers, truckers, and over- NY eveningwear company seeks expe- seas factories regarding purchase orders rienced person to manage sample be able to take an idea from concept to final presentation and incorporate &delivery. L/C knowledge a plus. Fax room & design studio. Must have good resume/salary requirements: 718-456-9011 organizational and computer skills. latest trends. Private label experience Cut & Sew Assistant Fax resume to: 240-352-4830 a plus. Fax resume to 212-937-3284. Marketing ANALYST/DATA MARKETING Knit Designer - Juniors Customer Service DESIGNER Luxury Italian lifestyle brand seeks a Mudd’s new Junior’s knit line seeks an assistant designer with NYC based Women’s Contemporary RTW Growing import company seeking Junior strong and dedicated Analyst to support Co. seeks organized, computer savvy Designer for NY Showroom. Over 6 yrs. their retail stores. This person will be minimum 2 yrs experience. Must be able to create specs, flat individual. Knowledge of AIMS a plus. experience in junior woven tops required. the main contact between corporate and stores for customer database purposes. sketches and have a good sense of color. Candidate must be Benefits. E-mail: [email protected] Candidate needs to be proficient in 36th St. Showroom-Offices-Brand New detail oriented. Must have knowledge of junior fit. Salary com- sketching/specing. Salary commensurate Must have at least 2 yrs.exp in retail 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 8000 with experience. FAX: (212) 921-5206 industry or with database marketing mensurate with experience. DESIGN ASSISTANT service aimed at retailers. Knowledge All Sizes-Hot Lofts-Low Prices Men’s Cold Weather Accessories Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 Designer/Merchandiser of CRM applications necessary. Salary NYC co. seeks individual to assist $65K w/ bonus and excellent benefits. Design Director in all aspects of the A young sportswear import co. seeks Graphic Designer ahighly motivated woven and denim Pls email resume to: design process of gloves, hats, and [email protected] Mudd is looking for a graphic designer to join our exciting scarves (including compiling trend designer with 3+ years exp. Should new division! Must have 3+ yrs experience in junior tops boards, preparing presentations, have knowledge of denim washes / fin- preparing design packages including ishes. Must know garment construc- Production Assistant creating screen prints and cads. Must be proficient in flat sketches and specs, coloring tion. Salary + incentive. Private label ladies sportswear seeks photoshop and illustrator with focus in illustrator. Must be designs, adjusting samples, design Fax resume to: 212-302-7732 or detail oriented and well-organized able to create, detail and color separate full size print, embroidery follow-up, etc.). Should be organized, E-mail: [email protected] individual. 1-2 years experience com- have strong knowledge of all constructed municating w/ overseas, order entry, and appliqué layouts. Strong silhouette drawing skills in illus- textiles, strong color and design sense, Designer follow-up on fabric, trim and garment trator a +. Candidate should be highly creative and detail and a passion for men’s design. Must do designs for both Boys & Girls. flow. Strong computer skills a must. oriented with a fresh take on junior graphics to join us in a MAIL ONLY! Indicate ad # 1081 Girls: 4-6X / 6-14 Boys: 4-20. Please fax resume to: (212) 564-6801 fun and fast paced environment. On outside of Envelope!! Computer exp a must. NY loc. Realservice Advertising Agy. Fax Patti 973-812-1731 Production Import Pro 358 Saw Mill River Road DESIGNER Needed to follow up designer line from Knit Patternmaker - Juniors Millwood, New York 10546 product development to sourcing, price WOVENS / KNITS negotiation, & purchasing. Must have Candidate must be a self-motivated, organized person DESIGN ASSISTANTS Womenswear private label co. looking exp in knits and wovens w/ factories in w/strong technical knowledge in cut & sew knits. Must be able for designer knowledgeable in wovens/ China & India. Excellent opportunity. KNITWEAR Fax resume to: 212-239-2409 to do flat technical sketches, patternmaking & garment spec. Republic Clothing is looking for 3 assts knits. Requires great eye for print, col- For Space in Garment Center w /sweater background. Two with min 2-5 or & trend. All candidates must have yrs experience and one entry level. Must portfolio & 5 yrs. exp. Will be proactive Production Manager Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Knit Sample Maker - Juniors be well organized, have excellent flat in fabric development/print & follow NYC Cold Weather Accessory Company 212-880-0414 sketching skills, be computer literate w / up with overseas offices. Strong com- seeking a detail oriented individual Candidate must be a self-motivated, organized person knowledge of Photoshop & Illustrator & munication, organizational skills a with strong organizational and commu- w/strong technical knowledge in cut & sew knits. Experience be team oriented. Responsibilities include must; as well as; ability to flat sketch nication skills to coordinate overseas Showrooms & Lofts in cutting and sewing equally. sketching, specs, fittings, sourcing & com- with understanding of garment con- production as well as customer BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS munication w / overseas production teams. struction & fit. Should be computer lit- relations. At least 3 years experience Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fax resume to: 212-719-3154 or erate. Up to date portfolio req. Large required. Must be motivated, self starter, ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Please email Jim at [email protected] email: lana @republicclothing.com public co. w/ benefits. For interview.... good with numbers, computer literate, FAX 212-556-5431 and able to multi task. MAIL ONLY! Indicate ad # 1075 Design On outside of Envelope!! Design Assistant Moderate Contemporary / Missy Realservice Advertising Agy. Blouses & Sportswear Co looking 358 Saw Mill River Road VP SWEATEERS to add to our design team: Millwood, New York 10546 DENIM WASH Contemporary Sweater Co. seeks exp’d., MANUFACTURING/ organized self starter w/sweater back- DESIGNER Production MANAGER ground for sketching, specs, fittings, Must be motivated and creative with the PatternMaker MAKE YOUR MOVE PRODUCTION Junior Denim company look- sourcing trims, and communications ability to identify emerging trends and Classy affordable space. w/overseas. Must be computer literate silhouettes. Must possess great color & N.Y. based Missy Moderate private 1,500-10,000SqFt Must see! Prominent Apparel Manf Co. ing for wash manager. w/excellent sketching skills. Fax/E-mail: print sense. label Sportswear company seeks Call Allan Gallaway Bernstein R.E. Candidate must have knowl- 212-764-2731 / [email protected] ASSISTANT DESIGNER production patternmaker for Woven 212-594-1414 Ext 251 seeks leader to re -engineer (Jackets and Skirts). Minimum of 8-10 domestic 300 employee pro- edge of denim finishes and Assisting on working on design projects years experience Lycra experience a processing. Must coordinate from start to finish. Individual must have plus. Fax resume to: 1-212-730-2531. duction plant. Manage import DESIGN ASSISTANT excellent communication skills & be and domestic production plan- washing in LA and Asia. WOVEN proficient in Illustrator and Photoshop. Experience in wet processing Republic Clothing seeking asst. for its Please Fax Resume: 212-719-5947 Production/Quality Control ning and souring depart- Est’d. Sportswear Co. seeks hard working ments. Improve efficiency, re- on contemporary denim line women’s sportswear & separates division. a+.Salary commensurate Must be well organized, have excellent flat individuals to monitor N.Y.C. sewing duce operating expenses and sketching skills, be computer literate w / Director Of factories, mostly located in midtown. with experience. knowledge of Photoshop & Illustrator & Must understand all aspects of sewing, lead times. Sourcing/Product specs, and quality. Experience req’d. Fax: 732 280-6190 Please email: be a team player. Responsibilities include sketching, specs, fittings, sourcing and Development Fax attn. Prod’n. Dept.: 212-354-0132 Email: [email protected] [email protected] communication w / overseas production teams. Minimum 3-5 yrs experience req’d. Strongly financed & highly profitable St. Louis based Manufacturer of PRODUCTION/SOURCING MGRS/75-90K+ Fax resume to: 212-302-4823 or Due to growth this multi-divisional co., Email: [email protected] Military/Public Safety Apparel and related items seeks an experienced, men’s, boy’s, Jr’s. ladies, (Contemporary, PLANT MANAGER hands on manager to create a global URBAN, Active etc) for the better to PATTERN/SAMPLES sourcing program for our Branded moderate mkts seeks sourcing /production Prominent Ctrl NJ Designer Assistant Division. Experience in sourcing in mgrs. Req: (1) for Jr. Urban license w/ Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast MISSY SPORTSWEAR work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Apparel Manf. seeks the Asian markets is a must. This sourcing import (China), domestic Fortune 500 Co. looking for a person to Manager will communicate our quality, (LA) other positions w/global sourcing LEADER to employ work with designer in the private label design and fit specs. Negotiate prices. expr., coord. samples, monitor production, operational excellence in mass market. Responsible for research- Choose mfgrs. Monitor delivery, take charge of prod process. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ing fabrics & styling trends, providing inspection and have a general familiarity E-mail resume: [email protected] plant operations, ware- design expertise to merchants, work- PRODUCTIONS with financial instruments. Plan to (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 ing w/overseas offices, and assisting work with Agents and Factory Direct. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. housing, production, the designer to implement the product Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Excellent oppty to source a highly handling & shipping development process. respected brand and join a small group Product Manager of highly motivated executives. depts. Streamline Qualifications include Bachelor’s degree Fast paced children’s importer seeks Compensation, Health Benefits, 401K, Product Manager with 10+ yrs. product Accountant/ operations to improve in Design and 3+ years of exp. Knowl- etc. are excellent. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, edge of fit & construction, fabric and a development and importing experience of PRODUCTIONS Full Charge Bkkpr output and profitability. good eye for color and detial required. Fax resume to 636-685-1005 branded merchandise from far east in Midtown apparel co seeks an Accountant/ Fax: 732-280-6190 Strong illustration and computer skills Email to [email protected] knits/wovens/sweaters for national Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine branded line. Comprehensive knowledge fast work. 212-869-2699. Bookkeeper. Duties include A/P, A/R, required. Ready-to-wear background is attn: Executive VP Marketing payroll, general ledger & financial [email protected] preferred. Must have strong written & and experience in fabrics/ yarns, knit- statement prep. Apparel exp a must & verbal communication skills. FABULOUS FREELANCE JOBS!!!! ting /weaving, garment construction, able to work w/IT systems. Please Fax resume 212-556-5429 printing, import production lead times TAYLOR HODSON and production schedules etc. Must be PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD include salary requirements. E-mail: Asst Designers, Production Assts [email protected] able to direct, supervise and motivate High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Designer Asst Merchandisers sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 staff . Travel required and travel expe- Long term & short term opportunities rience a must. autumn cashmere available NOW! Seeks Assistant Designer with good work Fax or E-mail resume Attn: Eric Send resume to : 212-658-9149 / [email protected] Administrative ethic, knitwear knowledge, and strong [email protected] or Assistant/Front Desk computer skills. Recent graduate is OK. fax (212) 924-1503 Designer co seeks energetic, upbeat per - Artist Needed Fax resume to: 212-398-2255 son to handle active post. Must be organ - RECEPTIONIST Fast growing childrenswear co. seeks a FASHION CAREERS Sweater Company seeks well organized ized "people" person w/ strong computer highly motivated & fast artist for design, Designer-Bag/Gift In Design, Tech Design & Production & communication skills. Heavy phones, individual to manage the front desk ads, websites, production, packaging etc. Promotional Products Co has an imme- See listings @ www.apparelstaffing.com day to day office duties. Must have ex- READY FOR THE NEXT LEVEL light bkkpg& typing. Benefits. Fax re - Mastery of Photoshop & Illustrator A MUST. diate opening for a motivated and sume with req’d salary to: 212-239-0514. cellent phone manner and desk appear- CEO and Design Director team, w/ 25 Fax resumes to 212-695-0203 talented designer in NYC creating ance. Excel, Word and Photoshop/ years exp in Pacific Rim in sourcing or email: [email protected] FASHION OPPORTUNITIES GWP bags and gift items for the Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - Illustrator knowledge is a plus. Please and mfg + most successful back- fragrance, beauty & cosmetic indus- fax resume to 212-768-2102 ground ($150 mil/yr over a decade) Admin Since 1967 Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. tries. Experienced at design and Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy) seeks investor to start a new young W-I-N-S-T-O-N SALES ASSISTANT product development of fashion acces- missy branded import label. Fax: 914- sories (handbags, cosmetic bags, pack- Retail EOE 234-0155 email: [email protected] APPAREL STAFFING Extremely detail oriented, fast paced aging, general promotional items), able FIRST & PRODUCTION DESIGN*SALES*MERCH environment. Must have MS Word and to communicate concepts quickly both Assistant Merchandisers Excel experience. Fax resume with cover ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION to clients & our team in Asia. Fully PATTERN MAKER UNIQLO is Japan’s leading casual wear (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 letter to: 212-967-2420 or email to: versed in Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop Sportswear & dress co. seeks diverse [email protected] retailer with over 640 stores in Japan, and capable with pencil artwork or pattern maker with experience in as well as a presence in the UK and jackets & dresses. Artist other visual expression skills. A flair China. Refer to www.uniqlo.co.jp/english for designing and / or styling accesso- Fax resume 212-302-5763 for our company profile. We are looking ABSORBA ARTIST ries; plus a good awareness of cost and Attn: Lynn for merchandisers and/or buyers with Full time newborn and infants’ SWEATER DESIGNER manufacturing issues are essential. 1or2years experience to join our team. childrenswear artist w/ a min. 3 yrs exp. in Contemporary sports co. seeks designer Must have a portfolio. HIGH PROFILE The position is based in New York City garment industry. Must be proficient with min. 5 years import exp. Must If you are enthusiastic, team oriented with an initial training period in Japan. Bridal/Women’s Specialty w/Photoshop. Creative team player w/ have technical knowledge of yarns and looking for an exciting opportunity HAND-MADE WEAR CO Solid quantitative skills combined with a Massachussets Store - $1M Gross original ideas and production back- & sweater construction in a fast paced environment, with real Seeks sales person with private label strong knowledge of the US market High traffic outlet area - $375K ground preferred to join friendly group. Fax Resume 212-302-5763 growth potential, please forward your accounts for coats and suits etc... are essential. Please E-mail your resume The Nery Corp. Call: 866-353-3666 Email resume to: [email protected] Attn: Lynn resume:[email protected] Phone:212-290-0009 Fax:212-290-8668 & cover letter to: [email protected] WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2004 19

SWEATERS Retail Sales Assoc. Hirshleifer’s seeks office assistants Tech Designer and sales associates with extensive Contemporary Sweater Co. seeks an exp’d. exp in designer RTW for their Dolce & PT/FT detail oriented, organized, and Gabbana and Jil Sander boutiques. energetic self starter for detail sketching, Exciting opportunities with the leader in urban fashion in Fax resume: 516-627-3579 developing initial & graded specs, tech pack prep, fittings, and communication our Young Men’s, Juniors, Boy’s, Girl’s and Lot 29 Divisions w/overseas. Fax or E-mail resume to: 212-764-2731 / [email protected] SALES MANAGER Sales Professionals FT/PT SWIMWEAR $80-100K KEY ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Robert Lee Morris the prestigious jewelry FOUNDATION/TD designer seeks Sales Professionals for [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 SALES ASSISTANT (NJ BASED) the Soho gallery. The qualified candidate Tech Designer should have knowledge of the luxury Key account positions require 3-5 years experience. market, be highly motivated, energetic Assistant Tech Designer and understand and convey the brand Experienced technician in measuring, We offer an excellent salary and benefits package. image. Customer book a plus. grading, and garment construction. [email protected] Please e-mail resume to: Must be very organized and able to [email protected] or communicate with overseas factories. Fax: (212) 219-9027 Computer skills a must. Please fax resume to 718-438-8767 or Account Executive Supply & Demand/Fashionista E-mail: [email protected] MAXX NEW YORK HANDBAGS is Est’d. & growing Contemporary Sports- seeking responsible, self starter for wear Co. seeks motivated & energetic TECH DESIGNER account management position. Candidate Account Executive to handle Specialty must have at least 3 years experience Stores & major private label accounts. Bernardo, a fast growing related sepa- in specialty store handbag sales and be rate division seeks candidate with min Min. 3-5 years exp. and strong contacts familiar with Maxx product. req’d. Fax attn. Sales: 212-354-0132 3 years experience in attending fit Fax resume: 212-679-0311 sessions, specing garments and sends fit corrections to overseas factories. Knowledge in grading & spec. Must Calvin Klein Kids be proficient with Excel and highly Account Executive Textile Salesperson organized. Knowledge in pattern mak- Calvin Klein kids has an outstanding Here’s your chance to make BIG $$$ ing a plus. Salary commensurate with opportunity for an aggressive Account Textile Co. seeks an exp’d salesperson w/ experience. Fax resume to: Executive to join our kids team in New min. 10 years in selling woven fabrics. 212-594-9633, attn: Helen York City. The Position will be responsi- Please send resume: Fax 212-971-3818 ble for managing existing and new or E-mail: [email protected] HANDBAGS TECH DESIGNER department store business, develop and Independent Mfr. Sales Rep needed for manage sales strategy, plan & monitor high-end handbag line. Holiday collec- Bernardo, a leading ladies’ and men’s sales. The ideal candidate should be outerwear importer seeks candidate tion - Easy sell! Commission without experienced in "Retail Math" have any $ limit. Call Yvette at: 732-895-4522 with min 3 yrs experience in attending strong communication and presentation UNISOURCE SHOWROOM fit sessions, specing garments and skills with the ability to travel. Showroom representing HERION, sends fit corrections to overseas facto- For consideration please email PIETROGRANDE & ORIAN collections, ries. Knowledge in grading & spec. resume and salary requirements to seek self started, organized Acct. Exec. Must be proficient with Excel and high- [email protected] Min. 3-5 yrs. exp. with Italian collections. Independent Reps Wtd. ly organized. Knowledge in pattern Positive relationship with US retailers. making a plus. Salary commensurate Dynamic, fashion-forward, Pilates/yoga Computer knowledge, travel. accessories company seeks reps for with experience. Fax resume to: DIRECTOR OF SALES For consideration please email resume 212-594-9633, attn: Helen high-end boutiques, specialty stores & Updated missy bridge Sportswear Co. [email protected] spas. Selective distribution. Please with a national base of specialty stores send resume to: [email protected] or is seeking someone to expand marketing, Cell: (609) 707-5850 Tech. Designer/Spec Tech develop product for new markets and Ladies’ sportswear mfg seeks an exp’d oversee an independent road force. People indiv who can work in a fast paced with the vision to see and the energy environ. Patternmaking & garment to fulfill invited to apply to : construction knowl req’d. Want a detail [email protected] oriented team player. Must be able to comm w/ factories & staff - detailed spec sheets, sewing instructions, cor- rections & measurements. Exp’d in flat IZOD sketches a must along w/ a prof in LEATHER OUTWEAR Adobe Illustrator, Excel & Word. Lectra Retail Manager exp a plus. Fax resume to: 212.354.6280. V.P. SALES Exciting ground floor opportunity to Seeking highly qualified individual to manage the first location of a new direct sales to major dept/specialty high-end lingerie retail concept. The Tech Designer, Sr. chain/catalog/internet business. An ag- store is in a prime location in 1. Missy sweaters/ knits gressive self starter with established Manhattan’s Meatpacking District. 2. Woven tops/ jackets for juniors management relationships along with The concept is well capitalized with 3. Sr. Production Director for juniors sales strategy need only apply. We plans for growth throughout the US line . Exp. w/ multple lines / markets have broad and deep capability to and internationally. and many styles per season capture private label as well as mass The ideal candidate will be creative, [email protected] market/discounter business. Qualified NGC SQL Series Software www.ngcsoftware.com candidates fax resume, sales and salary goal oriented and energetic, with history - Attn: President @ 212-921-3338. strong communication skills and the Technical Designer ability to cultivate client relationships. built on Microsoft Technology 2-5 years relevant experience required. Trendy outerwear co 512 7th Ave PRIVATE LABEL Red Horse ERP Business Mgmt. seeks fashion savvy tech designer to K • I • K •I • T Must have day, evening and weekend Sales/ Merchandising/ Fabric Devel establish fit, construction, sketching, Sweaters availability working an average of 50 Excellent background & contacts e-SPS Sourcing/Production Mgmt. corrections & grading for China prod’n. hours per week. can do it all e-PDM Product Data Mgmt. Good communication and computer Key Account Exec. for Nat’l Missy/Plus Phone: 212-722-1504 or Importer. Must have min 8 years exp. Full time position eligible for a com- skills. Min 3 years exp. Fax resume 212- plete benefits package including EMail [email protected] 302-5020 or E-mail: [email protected] Must have Major D.S. & Mass Merch relationships and proficient in Retail health and dental insurance, Long Math. Please send resume to Margo Term/Short Term Disability Insur- VP Product Development at 212-253-4126 ance, 401(k), paid vacation & holidays. Major importer seeks Product Development /Sales person for their infant/ baby divi- P/T Sales Assoc. sion. Min. 3 years experience in Also hiring part time sales associates. SUIT DESIGNER sales/design of infant softline products. SALES EXECUTIVE EOE. Drug-free workplace. Back- Very exp’d – worked with the best in industry. Fashion Leading Women’s/Missy/Petite Updated contemporary, Young Missy, Evening Weoffer an excellent compensation ground check required. New York (212)369-3778 [email protected] package commensurate with exp. Separates Sportswear Co. who is poised E-mail resumes to: Seeking consulting or P/T position. Please send resume to: for success, seeks an experienced profes- [email protected] Tel: 212 252 9370 or Miami (305)556-9122 [email protected] sional who is on top of his/ or her game Email: [email protected] and has an account following with Dept./ Speciality/Chain accounts. A dynamic compensation package is offered to that unique individual. Call/E-mail resume: 656-366-0113 x 21 / [email protected]

SALESPERSON Jr./Missy/Large Size Mfr. seeks exp’d. Salesperson with est’d. accounts. Please Fax resumes to: 212-719-0362 Sales Rep - Specialty Stores Designer & manufacturer of 2 upscale Italian women’s collections that is both trendy & fashion forward seeks Reps. Wesell to over 70 Specialty Stores. Customer age 25-45 yrs. Great Territories Still Available. You must be a well es- tablished multi-line traveling Rep that sells to Specialty Stores. MUST have a Jr. Account Exec min. of 3 yrs. sales experience with im- peccable references and compatible lines. Children’s/Men’s Please send response to Hanaa at: Fax: (310) 306-0844 or Sales Administrator Email: [email protected] We are seeking a Jr. Account Executive/Men’sSales Admin- istrator to develop, manage, SHOWROOM SALES and build overall relationships Fast growing junior knit top line seeks energetic and aggressive individual for with high-end department showroom sales in NY. Must be excel- store accounts. Ideal candi- lent on the phone, hardworking and de- dates will possess excellent tail oriented. Salary plus commission. Fax resume to 212-719-9328 or written and oral communica- email: [email protected] tion skills, as well as profi- ciency in excel and word. Must have 1-2 years related SHOWROOM SALES experience. Salary is com- Luxury Designer Collection seeks Sales mensurate with experience. Person w/executive & social client follow- ing. Must have experience in designer Please submit resume to: women’s collection, abitilty to cultivate [email protected] new business as well as a personal Att: Sales/Acct. Exec. sense of style. Salary / Benefits / Com- mission. Please Fax resume 212-319-7730 “Success is not the result of spontaneous combustion. You must set yourself on fire.” Reggie Leach

Feed the flame. WWDMAGIC has joined the rest of the MAGIC Marketplace at the Las Vegas Convention Center, inspiring more manufacturers to showcase WOMENS lines. You’ll see more in less time. More resources. 3,300+ exhibitors showing 5,000 brands. More hot new trends. Attend––and set your sales on fire.

Bonfire of Success. February 14-17, 2005 Las Vegas Convention Center

REGISTRATION INFORMATION: 218.723.9792 EXHIBIT INFORMATION: 818.593.5000 Photography: Andrew Shapter | www.AndrewShapter.com Reggie Leach is not associated with, and does not endorse or support, the MAGIC event.