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YOUR SAY… Reader’s rants, raves 4 and views on the July issue of JR. WHAT’S NEW First service in 500 6 years for Lorca ; chocolate menorot (yum); YIVO opens in .

FEATURE ’s unsung hero: 10 Elisabeth Blanchet uncovers the wartime story of .

FEATURE When the nun met the 12 rabbi: Deborah Freeman visits the German Bible study centre where Christians, Muslims and debate together.

PASSPORT Mexico: We uncover 14 a history of secret villages; fiery revolutionaries and Yiddish activists; meet ’s first woman – and Jewish – mayor; and hear from the cultural movers and shakers who are putting this Latin American country on the map. CONTENTS FILM The UK Jewish Film Festival is 32 coming to town! We review the top docs that are set to make waves this year. CAROL ISAACS; FROM ALTERED STATES, PUBLISHED BY ANTHOLOGY EDITIONS ANTHOLOGY PUBLISHED BY STATES, FROM ALTERED CAROL ISAACS; THEATRE Canada is the setting 34 for Old Stock’s story of immigration 14 and love. Judi Herman meets the husband- and-wife team behind the show.

VARIAN FRY INSTITUTE; © INSTITUTE; FRY VARIAN 36 MUSIC Vivi Lachs uncovers the 36 story behind Soviet Zion, a musical about the Jewish region in Siberia; a concert marks Kristallnacht 80 years on. ROB GREIG; © © BOOKS Peter Watts pops the 38 religion pill; Mike Witcombe speaks to Ariel Kahn about his debut novel and we revisit Maureen Kendler’s seminal series on British Jewish writing. Plus David Herman on Saul Bellow; Liz Cashdan on Kinder Scout; and Seymour Hersh’s biography.

THE MODERNISTS Adrian 10 46 Whittle on Haifa’s iconic shuk. SEPHARDI RENAISSANCE 47 47 Rebecca Taylor on the Wolf of Baghdad; Michelle Huberman on the parties promising miracles; Lyn Julius asks: who owns Jewish culture?

CLAUDIA CRUZ BARIGELLI; COURTESY OF THE DOCUMENTATION CENTER ; OF THE DOCUMENTATION BARIGELLI; COURTESY CRUZ CLAUDIA WHAT’S HAPPENING Our 54 three-month guide to art, books, film, music, theatre and other cultural events in the UK, and . BEATRIZ SOKOL; © SOKOL; BEATRIZ

© FAMILY Alumot gives 65 Israelis a warm shalom. 38 MEET THE READER This issue: : ON THE COVER 66 Basil Mann in Hounslow. OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 3 YOUR SAY… JR Jewish Thanks to our supporters EDITOR Rebecca Taylor RENAISSANCE PRESIDENT David Dangoor SPONSORS •Prof Joan Freeman A FRESH PERSPECTIVE ON JEWISH CULTURE CEO Janet Levin SPONSORED BY DANGOOR EDUCATION JULY 2018 £7.25 •David Dangoor •Jonathan Glass ART DIRECTOR Becky Redman •The Mirisch & •Chris Godbold LISTINGS EDITOR Danielle Goldstein Lebenheim Charitable •Stephen Goldman POETRY EDITOR Liz Cashdan Foundation •Ed and Trish Kessler ARTS EDITOR Judi Herman MUSIC EDITOR Danielle Goldstein TEARING UP •Icky Kurgan THE RULES FILM EDITOR Jason Solomons PATRONS •David & Annie Lass OUTLOUD EDITOR Judi Herman •The Shoresh •Bernard & Sylvia OPERATIONS MANAGER Lorraine Sheridan VIENNA’S CULTURE Foundation Marder SUB EDITORS Agi Erdos, Judi Herman, REVOLUTION Stephen Herman, Patti Langton, •Dee and Leslie •Prof Simon Diane Lukeman, Judith Mirzoeff Bergman Majaro MBE ILLUSTRATIONS Thomas Fournier •Stanley Cohen OBE •Stephen Moss CBE PHOTOGRAPHY Rob Greig, Charlotte Mayhew •Anthony Coren •Lesley Paiba WEBMASTER Becky Redman •Walter Goldsmith •Harry Perovetz SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR Danielle Goldstein •Lionel Gordon •Rosalind Preston MARKETING CONSULTANT Ricky Coussins •Ian Lancaster OBE EDITORIAL COMMITTEE Monica Bohm-Duchen, David Conway, Raphael •Hilary & James •Sarah Rose Gee, Judi Herman, Shoshi Ish-Horowicz, Liz Ison, IS THERE LIFE AFTER ROTH? AMOS OZ MOROCCO MEETS VENEZUELA •Brian Linden •David L Rubin Bea Lewkowicz, Michael Mail, Irene Newton, The future of Jewish fiction Peace is still possible The restaurant that’s defying the crisis •Colette Littman •Anne Sebba Judith Mirzoeff EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD •Judy Weleminsky •Naomi & Victor Geraldine Auerbach MBE Reactions to our July issue Stone Alex Brummer City Editor, Daily Mail FRIENDS •Marlene Sutton Monica Bohm-Duchen Art historian TEARING UP THE RULES: Max Dunbar CEO, Jewish Museum •Gretha Arwas •Karen Trew David Glasser Chair, Ben Uri Art Gallery VIENNA’S CULTURE •Janice & Charles •Lady Watson Judy Ironside MBE Founder & President of REVOLUTION Bloom (Betty P Skolnick) UK Jewish Film Jennifer Jankel Chair, Jewish Music Institute LETTERS •Susan Cresswell •Bencie Woll, FBA Clive Lawton OBE Senior Consultant, Limmud Vienna in New •Julian Dawes & •And thanks to our Writer and actor As a footnote to your terrific coverage of Ann Rau Dawes anonymous donors Claudia Rubinstein Director Jewish Book Week Raymond Simonson CEO, JW3 secessionist Vienna, I wanted to let you Nitza Spiro Director, Spiro Ark know about New York’s Neue Gallerie, which Lena Stanley-Clamp Director, European features world-class early 20th-century gave protection to their Jewish subjects Association for Jewish Culture German and Austrian paintings and design. – Mohammad V refused to surrender BOARD OF TRUSTEES Janet Levin, Ian Lancaster (Chair), There is also furniture and silverware from them to the Nazis (unlike other occupied Martin Motz, Judy Weleminsky, Brian Harris, the fin-de-siècle period, in particular, from North African countries). Jews were killed Lady Collins, Diane Lukeman (Volunteer the Viennese Werkstatte movement. It has a following the establishment of Israel; in Coordinator) Viennese restaurant called Cafe Sabarsky – 1967 and from 1959 to 1961, emigration to HON LEGAL ADVISOR Richard Rampton QC when you enter you might think you are in Israel was banned. The publisher, editor and members of the Vienna. JANOS FISHER However, persecution varied by committees of Jewish Renaissance wish to make it clear that the views in the articles are region. Jewish communities in the Berber those of individual authors and should not be Morocco: haven or hell? region of the south lived in harmony with taken to reflect their own opinions. The rights of copyright holders are recognised. Copyright In Saul Zadka’s review of Uprooted by their neighbours. The late Hananiyah holders we failed to locate should contact us at Lyn Julius (JR April 2018) he writes, Elfassie, whom we met on our first JR the address below. “Throughout the 19th century thousands tour, told us of the night that Mossad, in Printed in Wales by Pensord. Published by Renaissance Publishing [of Jews] were murdered by mobs in an undercover operation, had arrived in a company limited by guarantee Casablanca, Rabat, Marrakech and his village and persuaded all (except him) Registered Charity Number 1152871. Tetouan,” and “entire communities were to leave. In cities, such as Casablanca, CONTACT INFORMATION 353-359 Finchley Rd, wiped out by King Idris I and 6,000 Fez, Rabat and Marrakesh, Jewish and London NW3 6ET Jews were murdered in Fez as early as Muslim communities lived side by side in +44 20 7794 5254 1033”. This is at odds with what we learned friendship. While emigration continued, WEBSITE from Raphael Elmaleh, our guide when we factors such as poor economic and www.jewishrenaissance.org.uk EMAIL were in Morocco on a recent JR tour. Rafi educational opportunities also played [email protected] stressed that Jews did not leave Morocco a part. In 2011 King Mohammed VI [email protected] because of persecution, as was the case in introduced a new constitution stipulating [email protected] many other Arab countries. Can you clarify that the Moroccan national identity [email protected] SOCIAL the situation? EVE KUGLER had been “nourished and enriched by Twitter: @JewishRen its African, Andalusian, Hebraic and www.facebook.com/JewishRenaissance © Copyright Jewish Renaissance Janet Levin, JR’s CEO and organiser of Mediterranean tributaries”. ISSN 1476 1769 JR Tours, replies: There were terrible massacres, particularly Please send your letters to: in the 11th and 19th centuries – which were [email protected] or by post to: happening in European as well as Arab Editor, Renaissance Publishing, Office 2, countries. But the kings of Morocco often 353-359 Finchley Rd, London NW3 6ET

4 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 OUR To show the To celebrate To nurture 1 vitality of 2 the diversity of 3 understanding AIMS contemporary Jewish experience between Jewish FROM JR’S and traditional in the UK and and other PRESIDENT Jewish culture. around the world. cultures.

e are now through the busiest part of the Jewish year, with its festivals, FROM THE EDITOR W holidays and time for family. I hope it has been a happy and healthy period for all our JR readers. But the momentum continues in an exico has never been far from the autumn packed with activities. headlines this year: whether it was One of those I am supporting and which is Mthe heartbreaking stories of migrant particularly exciting is the screening of Carol parents being split from their children as they Isaacs’ graphic novel, Wolf of Baghdad (p48). tried to cross the US-Mexican border, or the Isaacs has produced a beautiful cartoon account continuing toll from drug-related violence. of her family’s life in Baghdad in the first part But one name dominated Mexican news of the 20th century, and this will be screened in more than any other: Amlo: the nickname November at JW3 alongside Sephardi music from given to Andrés Manuel López Obrador, the left-wing politician her band 3yin. who achieved a landslide victory in the country’s elections in July. The music is just as interesting as the visuals: He swept aside a century of politics dominated by the increasingly some of the pieces to be performed are songs corrupt PRI party and won on a ticket of renewal that promised to from the Iraqi Al Kuwaity brothers (Saleh and tackle corruption, inequality and the endemic violence. Daoud), who wrote most of the popular Arab But not everyone is convinced. Writing in his latest book, music of the 1920s and 30s. Facing increasing El Pueblo Soy Yo (I Am the People), the Jewish commentator persecution in Iraq, the brothers fled to Israel in Enrique Krauze (who has often criticised Mexico’s left) predicts the 1950s. While the Ba’ath Party was busy erasing that Amlo “will corrode democracy from within”. However, the

Jewish identity from Iraq’s cultural history, in Jews I spoke to for our special section on Mexico (from p14) were LETTERS Israel the brothers were given a new outlet via cautiously optimistic. Relations between the community and the -language broadcasts of the Israel the Mexican government have historically been good and most Broadcasting Authority (which no longer exists). expect that to continue – although some did express fears that The dozens of songs they composed in Israel attitudes towards Israel might become pricklier. also became hits in Arab countries, and are still But as Jo Tuckman points out (p29), López Obrador acted played on the radio throughout the Arab world. swiftly to squash when it reared its head in his Their identity as Jewish artists is slowly being MORENA party. That is something that his friend, Jeremy reclaimed, thanks in part to the work of Isaacs Corbyn, might do well to learn from. and her band members. It is a bittersweet story, The other notable thing about the Mexican Jewish but one which is a reminder of the power of community is that whilst it is small – around 50,000 people – it culture to transcend stereotypes and has an impressive cultural scene. On p22, Carlos Metta describes cross borders, even at the height of how younger Jews are forging new identities based on cultural, conflict. rather than religious, affiliation. This is echoed by other voices I do hope you can get to this such as Myriam Moscona (p28), whose novel, partly written in special event – and to some of the Ladino, was awarded one of Mexico’s top literary awards. It is an hundreds of others which JR inspiring end to the year. is highlighting across its Hasta la vista! features and listing pages (from p54) this autumn,

REBECCA TAYLOR, EDITOR [email protected] SOCIAL: @JewishRen; www.facebook.com/JewishRenaissance CONTRIBUTORS

BEATRIZ SOKOL EMILIO BETECH PETER WATTS ALAN GRABINSKY ELISABETH Beatriz is a ROPHIE Did Walter Alan is based in BLANCHET photographer When the former Benjamin really Mexico City and When she came based in Mexico UK Chief Rabbi, have a weed writes about travel, across a plaque City, but her Lord Sacks, visited habit? Yes, cities, and Jews. to Varian Fry in projects have taken her all Mexico City earlier this year he according to Peter, who His work has appeared in Tablet, a Marseille square, Elisabeth over Latin America, Africa and was the first guest on Emilio’s new uncovered this gem in the LSD Haaretz and decided to find out more. Europe. She has a particular video podcast, Sesión Abierta. Library, a collection of books and among other publications. He You can read her story on Fry interest in combining different Based in Mexico City, Emilio is artefacts dedicated to drugs (see works as a copywriter in the on p10. Elisabeth is a French photographic genres. She took a writer and editor and for ten p38). Peter has written for the humanitarian agency CADENA photographer and filmmaker the pictures of the activists, years was the co-host of El Aleph, Guardian, (see p22). He has contributed based in Marseille. Her work musicians and writers in our Mexico’s Jewish radio chat show. and Prospect among other widely to our Mexico section with has covered gypsy and traveller Passport section on Mexico (from He writes about the history of publications. His latest book pieces on art (p20), (p24) communities, the history of p14). You can see more of her Mexico’s Jews and the challenges Altered States: the Library of Julio and Jewish life outside the capital prefabs and the orphans of work at beatrizsokol.com they face on p14. Santo Domingo is out now. city (p30). Ceausescu’s Romania.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 5 CAN GEFILTE WHAT’S NEW FISH HELP SAVE JEWISH HERITAGE? A Krakow conference has called for a global Jewish heritage net- work, says Rebecca Taylor

he refugee architects A boy blows the shofar of New Zealand, Israeli at the service in Lorca T tourists and a session in October intriguingly titled Bound by the Wisdom of were just some of the topics debated in Krakow, , in September as SHOFAR SOUNDS IN LORCA part of a conference on the future of urban Jewish heritage. FOR FIRST TIME IN 500 YEARS Over 140 participants, including politicians, heritage A service has taken place at a synagogue in Lorca, , for the first time experts, academics, historians since Jews were expelled from the country in 1492. Rebecca Taylor reports and community leaders from over 30 countries attended the event he first Jewish service in more medieval synagogue in the region and is to talk about cultural heritage than 500 years has taken place in a also the only synagogue of that era in Spain projects and share ideas about the

WHAT’S NEW WHAT’S T synagogue in Lorca in the Murcia that has not been used as a museum or preservation of Jewish heritage region of Spain. The service, held on 2 built over with another religious building. sites worldwide. European Union October to celebrate the festival of Simchat “It is a wonderful site with spectacular Commissioners Tibor Navracsics Torah was the first to be held there since views,” says Alan. and Elzbieta Bienkowska also the of 1492, when The synagogue’s remains were in an attended the opening session Spain expelled its Jewish population. excellent condition when they were found at Krakow’s historic Tempel Around 70 people attended the service, and the bulding includes a fountain for Synagogue. with most coming from the local Costa handwashing and benches that run along “As well as attending sessions Blanca community. “The children started the sides of what is thought to have been covering areas as diverse as Jewish the service by blowing a shofar, a sound the main prayer hall. A women’s gallery heritage tourism, which has not been heard in Lorca for more above has also been reconstructed. in Cairo and heritage , than 500 years,” says Alan Harris, a British At the beginning of the 8th century participants had the opportunity It’s gifts in Wills that mean we can resident of Alicante, who organises services southern Spain was occupied by Muslim to discuss ways they can support and events for the Jewish community in the rulers but Jews prospered in Lorca, raising each other,” said Michael Mail, the region. “Kaddish was said for the Lorcan cattle and working as craftsmen and Arabic Chief Executive of the Foundation support thousands of people to people who perished there translators. Eighteen for Jewish Heritage, which during the Inquisition. We “The tourist houses and artefacts, organised the conference with read out the names of 15 board should be such as menorot, thought the University of Birmingham’s celebrate the festivals they love people we know who were to belong to the Jewish Ironbridge International Institute murdered at that time. We delighted with community, were also for Cultural Heritage. also know that other local what we are found in good condition “We are calling for greater Jews received 200 lashes, nearby. support for Jewish heritage some were sent to work as doing, instead The only sour note was preservation and the creation of Thanks to gifts in Wills we can make sure Abraham, Helen and many other galley slaves, some were of charging us” sounded by Lorca Tourist an ongoing international network burned alive or garrotted, Board, which has charged of cities and towns that have people like them can stay in touch with their Jewish roots whenever they like. and others imprisoned for life.” Rabbi the community 360 euros to use the Jewish heritage as part of their Joseph Dweck, the Senior Rabbi of the S&P premises. “The tourist board wants to show cultural offer,” said Mail. Sephardi Community in the UK, also sent the world that there is a synagogue and also Addressing the conference, We depend on gifts in Wills for £1 in every £4 we need to raise. For more a message that was read out at the service. to turn the area into a World Heritage Site. EU Commissioner Navracsics, The UK’s Chief Rabbi Ephraim Mirvis has They should be delighted with what we are who is in charge of culture and information about leaving a gift in your Will and our free Will Writing Service also supported the initiative. doing. Instead they charge us!” says Alan. education, said: “What we must The remains of the synagogue were As we were going to press, the Lorca Tourist do together is ensure that cultural call Alison Rubenstein on 020 8922 2833 or email [email protected] uncovered during the construction of a Board responded to say it was looking into heritage finds its place in people’s hotel on the site about 15 years ago. Built the matter. n lives – and in their hearts.” n inside the fortified walls of the town’s JEREMY COLEMAN

medieval castle, it is the only known www.southerncostablancajewishcommunity.org www.foundationforjewishheritage.com © #PeopleOfJewishCare Charity Reg No. 802559 6 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018

Legacy ad A4.indd 1 14/06/2018 15:08 It’s gifts in Wills that mean we can support thousands of people to celebrate the festivals they love

Thanks to gifts in Wills we can make sure Abraham, Helen and many other people like them can stay in touch with their Jewish roots whenever they like. We depend on gifts in Wills for £1 in every £4 we need to raise. For more information about leaving a gift in your Will and our free Will Writing Service call Alison Rubenstein on 020 8922 2833 or email [email protected]

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Jewish socialists at a picnic, London, 1902 ICONIC YIDDISH ARCHIVE JR HAS TO OPEN LONDON OFFICE A NEW YIVO’s new base aims to bolster its UK and Europe ties, reports Rebecca Taylor WEBSITE! IVO, the renowned New throughout the world. Among its little- e’ve redesigned our website York-based archive that has known treasures is a large volume of W over the summer and we hope Y documented Yiddish history and material relating to Jewish life in the UK. you’ll agree it’s now easier to read culture for almost 100 years, is to set up a One impetus for the move has been and use. Our designer Becky Redman new office in London. the discovery of a large amount of new and the JR team have created our “We want to bring YIVO back to material from YIVO’s original collection in sleek new look, which features easy Europe. The new base will be a bridge Vilnius that had remained hidden since access for subscribers to previous between the New York office and the war. The London office will provide a Passport and Sephardi Renaissance Europe,” said William Pimlott, Director of base to exhibit these materials. sections and to the whole of our back Operations for YIVO UK. “YIVO’s aim in setting up its London archive. YIVO was founded in 1925 in Vilna, office is to make the many treasures in its You’ll also find information Poland (now Vilnius, Lithuania) to archive and library accessible to British about our upcoming tours –Southern preserve and promote Jewish culture in people. Its presence in London will Ethiopia and Greece are lined up and Russia. Much of the enable it to cooperate closely with allied for spring 2019. And we continue collection was hidden during World War British institutions helping to broaden to bring you the latest news and

WHAT’S NEW WHAT’S II. In 1940, the office moved to New York. discussions about Jewish history. It will interviews from the arts world with Since then, it has built up a collection serve as an important way for British our blogs and JROutLoud podcasts containing more than 23 million original people to learn about Jewish history,” said put together by our Arts Editor Judi documents, pamphlets, photographs and YIVO’s CEO Jonathan Brent. n Herman. Best of all, it’s now even other artifacts and over 400,000 books easier to renew your JR sub online! relating to the lives of See yivo.org WWW. JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK

he Israeli artist Anat Ratzabi, to HOT whom we spoke to in the April T issue of JR about her Holocaust CHOCOLATE memorial in The Hague, has turned her It’s time for the doughnut to roll attention to designing menorot. But these are candelabra with a difference: they are aside, the only sweet treat you need made from kosher Belgian chocolate. this Chanukah is a kosher chocolate Ratzabi uses wax to create the model Eat your words: menorah, says Rebecca Taylor for the candlesticks, which are then carved a chocolate ‘chai’ with designs such as floral patterns or even a cityscape of . After the models have been made, a mould is created for almost 30 years, also creates 3D and casting takes place – using warm reproductions of paintings of the Dutch chocolate. Then the chocolate is cooled, and French Masters – in chocolate, of the cast released from the mould and your course. Her cocoa-based art includes menorah is ready to be drooled over. To Johannes Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl create a ‘bronze’ effect the sculpture can be Earring and Vincent Van Gogh’s self- adorned with an edible bronze patina. portrait with his bandaged ear. The “The chocolate doesn’t melt when results have been so impressive that lit because it is solid, high quality dark Madame Tussauds of Amsterdam and the chocolate that has no milk in it,” says Rijksmuseum have asked her to produce Ratzabi, who also creates boxes of chocolate busts of art works. chocolates carved with symbols including Ratzabi says: “Using chocolate is the Star of David, ‘chai’ (the Hebrew letter innovative and magical.” We say, “Why meaning ‘life’), Christian crosses and spend hours cleaning wax off your The dark arts: Islamic crescents and stars. menorah when you can eat it instead?’ n Ratzabi at work Ratzabi, a Yemeni-Israeli artist who MAITE VIROULEAUD

has lived in the Hague in the Netherlands www.thechocolatesculpture.com ©

8 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 TOURS 2018-19

ETHIOPIA WITH 21 FEB – 7 MARCH 2019 South Ethiopia: Uncover the mystical walled city of Havar, much natural beauty, beautiful people and extraordinary art + Addis Ababa. 4-17 NOVEMBER 2019 North Ethiopia: The wonders of Axum, MOROCCO THESSALONIKI TO ATHENS Simien Mountains, Lalibela, Lake Tana 17-24 MARCH 2019 16-24 MAY 2019 and Jewish communities of Gondar Incomparable Rafi Elmaleh leads us Repeating our acclaimed 2015 & ‘16 trips with their (pictured above)and Addis Ababa. through the Jewish heritage of fabulous insights into a rich Jewish culture and meetings with Fez and Meknes, Roman Volubilis and its remarkable present-day guardians. Includes: Q&A WITH SYBIL SHERIDAN elegant Rabat, to a Purim party in Thessaloniki, the stunning tomb of Alexander the Great’s

13 November 2018, 6pm in Edgware RSVP to Casablanca and on to magical Marrakesh. father (in Vergina), Romaniot Ioannina, the hilltop WHAT’S NEW [email protected] Tour full - waiting list only monasteries of Meteora and classical splendour in Athens.

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As the net tightened around arian Fry never saw the A retired historian, Guiraud is an Mediterranean tree expert in Marseille’s World War II history. Jews and opponents of the planted in recognition In 1999 he created the Varian Fry France Nazi regime in Vichy France, of his bravery at Israel’s Association after being contacted by Walter Holocaust memorial Meyerhof, an American professor, whose a daring rescue mission swung centre, Yad Vashem, in family was saved by Fry. “Walter felt he had into operation in Marseille led 1996. Fry was the first American citizen to a duty to make the name of Fry known. Vbe honoured by the centre as a Righteous He had created the Varian Fry Foundation by an American journalist, Among the Nations (non-Jews who Project in the US and asked me if I’d be Varian Fry. Now Fry’s story is risked their lives to save Jews from Nazi interested in creating a sister organisation being told in an upcoming novel extermination). He died aged 59 in 1967 in Marseille,” says Guiraud, who had – just after starting a job as a Latin already been working with schools to and film. Elisabeth Blanchet teacher in a private school. It was make Fry’s story known. reports on the legacy of this an unremarkable ending for a Fry was born in 1908 in New little-known activist man who was responsible for York to a wealthy Protestant saving thousands of Jews and family. He attended prep other refugees from wartime schools and majored in France, and who is lauded as a classics at Harvard. He read ‘Héro de la Résistance Française’ Greek and Latin poetry in (hero of the French Resistance) in his spare time. “But he always an inscription on a blue plaque in a had a rebellious streak,” says Julie small Marseille square. Orringer, an American writer whose latest “When he returned from Marseille novel, The Flight Portfolio, is based on Fry’s to America, Fry was seen as a non- experiences in Marseille. “At boarding conformist,” says Jean-Michel Guiraud, school because he protested against cruel president of the Varian Fry France initiation rituals; at Harvard he had a Association. Sitting in his Marseille living reputation for throwing wild parties. He room, it feels as if he could talk for hours set up an avant-garde literary magazine, about the man he admires. “He suffered and was suspendedfor planting a ‘For Sale’ from this lack of recognition,” he adds. sign on the dean’s lawn.”

10 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 Orringer’s book also touches on Charles’ glorious stairs.At the bottom of the began rounding up Jews. Fry called a police the fact that he was known to have had stairs was the Hotel Splendide. It was from official and warned that if news of the relationships with other men. “Most of a room there that Fry set up the Centre arrest leaked out, the Vichy regime would his biographies have downplayed this, the Américain de Secours (the American be gravely embarrassed. He threatened to more I learned about his life, the more I felt Rescue Centre). Officially this was a call The New York Times if Chagall wasn’t that his own sense of outsiderhood must charity that helped refugees with food released in half an hour. The police met the made him sensitive to the plight of others.” and financial support. But word spread deadline. In 1945, Fry wrote, ‘’Marc Chagall Fry is also the subject of an upcoming that it was offering help that was far more is well satisfied with American trees and film, And Crown Thy Good, directed by significant: securing visas. Fry was soon American cows and finds Connecticut just Pierre Sauvage, filmmaker and founder overwhelmed with refugees. as good to paint in as Southern France.’’ of the Varian Fry Institute at the Chambon His first aim was to issue American Although he had support from other Foundation, an organization dedicated visas for those who needed to flee the Americans in Marseille, including the to exploring the American experience of country. But once visas were secured American vice consul Hiram Bingham the Holocaust. In a paper he gave in 2000, there was a more dangerous hurdle: each IV, the hotel soon became unsuitable as a Sauvage describes how Fry became refugee needed an exit authorisation from base. “There were crowds in the reception a journalist and on an assignment in the French authorities. Even applying for and the management was not happy with in 1935, he witnessed an incident in a café such a document could put lives in danger, ‘hosting’ the CAS within its walls,” says on Kurfürstendamm that changed his life. so Fry’s team produced fake papers. In Guiraud. Eventually, the CAS set up its HQ “Two Hitler Youth boys approached a man order to keep the real nature of his work at 18 Boulevard Garibaldi. A group of artists who was drinking a and who they hidden, he ran his operation from his hotel and writers (including André Breton and thought was Jewish. As the man put out bathroom, where running water could other surrealists) also had a base at the his hand to lift his mug, one of the thugs drown out conversations he suspected the Villa Air Bel, a chateau outside Marseille. wielded a dagger and nailed the man’s authorities might be tapping, says Guiraud. In December 1940, Fry was arrested hand to the table,” writes Sauvage. Fry also worked with the Spanish with some artists and activists. They were For Fry, hanging around with anti-Nazi and Portuguese authorities to get transit held on a prison boat in the port, but were intellectuals in New York was not enough. visas so the refugees could cross Spain released a few days later. But when his He needed to act, especially after France and leave Lisbon by boat for the USA or passport expired, the US State Department, surrendered to in June 1940. Mexico. But Fry was not able to create exit who were keen to keep the French onside, Hitler divided the country into an occupied authorisations for everyone. Some had refused to issue another for him unless he zone in the north and an unoccupied zone to trek on foot through the returned to the USA. He was in the south, where a puppet government Pyrenees to safety in Spain on finally arrested by the French operated out of the region’s capital in Vichy. the other side. “What is police in August 1941, was Jews, artists and writers who opposed the The ERC’s list included urgently given one hour to pack his National Socialists fled south, as well as Jewish and non-Jewish needed now is things, and was accompanied refugees, getting as far as Marseille. There refugees from the Third to the Spanish border. they lined up in their hundreds at the US Reich and opponents of the a new Scarlet After his forced return to Consulate to beg for documents that would Vichy regime, among them Pimpernel” the States, Fry was put under let them leave. But US policy was to stall. famed artists Marc Chagall, FBI surveillance. “In Fry’s Fry was alarmed by the news. In June André Breton and Marcel Duchamp, archived papers at Columbia University, 1940, at an event at New York’s Hotel Nobel laureate physiologist Otto Meyerhof, I found grateful letters from his former Commodore, he and other activists set up writers Hannah Arendt and Heinrich clients,” says Orringer. She adds that Fry, the Emergency Rescue Committee (ERC), Mann, and the anthropologist Claude Lévi- “faced a terrible moral conundrum: were a body that aimed to secure visas for those Strauss. the lives of Europe’s prominent artists in danger in France. The ERC compiled a When Fry first encountered Chagall in worth more than those who didn’t have list of around 200 people considered most the Provençal town of Gordes, the artist demonstrable talent? His solution was to at risk. Thanks to the work of the Jewish refused to leave France because he couldn’t work tirelessly to save as many as he could, Labor Committee, the Department of State get an exit visa for his daughter, Ida. Fry and to write about the plight of refugees delivered several hundred emergency didn’t press him. Then the anti-Jewish once he returned to the States.” visitors’ visas for German refugees in laws were adopted in France. Fry tried According to Fry’s estimate, assistance France. More were secured by Eleanor again: the story goes that Chagall asked was provided to about 4,000 people; 1,000 Roosevelt, wife of the US president. him if there were cows in America and he of them were smuggled from France in But the ERC felt that someone was said yes. Soon afterwards, Chagall went various ways. Shortly before his death, the needed on the ground. “What is urgently to Marseille with his family to begin their French government awarded Fry the Order needed now is a new Scarlet Pimpernel journey to the States. Almost immediately of Chevalier of the Legion d’Honneur. who will go to France and risk his life… he was taken from his hotel after the police He later described his departure I have volunteered to go myself,” Fry wrote from Marseille: “It was grey and rainy to Mrs Roosevelt. as I boarded the train. I looked out of the windows and innumerable images FRY IN MARSEILLE crowded my mind. I thought of the faces Fry arrived in Marseille on 14 August 1940. of the thousand refugees I had sent out of He was 32. Along with the list of names – France, and the faces of a thousand more and a dress suit – he carried $3,000 taped I had had to leave behind…” n ELISABETH BLANCHET ELISABETH to his leg. His first sight of the city was the view from the top of the Gare Saint- The Flight Portfolio by Julie Orringer will be published by Knopf in spring 2019. For release dates of And Crown Thy Good: Varian Fry in Clockwise: Varian Fry in his Boulevard Garibaldi office in Marseille, 1941; fellow ERC rescuer Miriam Marseille see: varianfry.org. Association Varian Fry Davenport with Fry in the Rue Grignan office, Marseille, France: varianfry-france.fr. Elisabeth Blanchet is a VARIAN FRY INSTITUTE; © INSTITUTE; FRY VARIAN

© 1940; the plaque at Place Varian Fry, Marseille photographer and filmmaker based in Marseille.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 11 WHEN THE NUN MET THE RABBI

For the past 50 years, Jews and Christians have been gathering in Germany to participate in a remarkable study programme. Deborah Freeman joins them as they celebrate their jubilee with a week of debate, choral singing – and twilight dancing

ifty years ago, the young junior first Bible week were: Genesis, Chapters about the Bible,” he tells us with a smile, doctor had 1-3; Isaiah, Chapters 42-49, and the Book “but also it is important for us to get to a fortuitous meeting with a of Jonah. know each other.” We are fulfilling the German nun. He was visiting Cut to a light summer evening, August aspirations of Bible Week`s founders. And Hedwig Dransfeld Haus, a 2018. I have come to Haus Ohrbeck, a the texts we have on our tables are the ones German Catholic educational Catholic education conference centre in that were studied 50 years ago. institute in Bendorf, Germany, which was Osnabrück, for the 50th annual Jewish- But this is not a holiday. Seven Fheaded by a nun, Anneliese Debray. On Christian Bible Week. Through the wide days. One hundred and thirty people. meeting Magonet, Debray lamented, “How windows of the main hall, I see woods and Christians, Jews and a Muslim. First thing can Jews and Germans ever get on together green fields. Rabbi Magonet, now Emeritus each morning there is shacharit [Jewish after what happened in the Holocaust?” Professor of Bible at College, morning prayers] attended by Jews, The meeting led to a discussion of how, London, is addressing us. He suggests that Christians and, on most mornings, by the 25 years after the Holocaust, avenues of during this week we look at questions we Muslim imam Halima Krausen. communication could be opened between don’t ask ourselves on a day-to-day basis After , participants can attend post-war German Christians and Jewish and ask, according to our own religious a psalm reading. The morning I attend, the people from Europe, Israel and across the tradition: why do we think God created us? psalm is read in Hebrew, German, Dutch, world. Debray already ran a Catholic Bible The next morning there I am, in a English and Yiddish. Then we divide study week and an idea was formulated: group of 13 people ready to begin the day’s into small groups for text study, analysis by studying texts common to both Jewish discussion. With me are Lutheran pastors, and Christian traditions, those from both Catholic and Protestant theologians, religions would learn to better understand other Christians from Germany and not just the texts but also each other. In an the Netherlands and another Jewish inspirational move, Debray and Magonet participant, Dr Annette Boeckler, Head of and other progressive rabbis decided to Jewish studies at the Zurich Institute for set up a Bible study week (Bibelwoche) for Interreligious Dialogue. Jews and Christians over the summer. The Bert Geerken, a Dutch academic with event was held in Bendorf (later it moved an interest in theology, is the kind-looking to Osnabrück) and the texts chosen for this facilitator. “It is important to know a lot

12 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 and discussion. Each group focuses on a Benedict is putting pen to paper these days Clockwise: Dr Lindsey Taylor-Guthartz, Imam Halima different way of accessing the text, from an with views that cherish older, antisemitic Krausen and Sr Claire-Louise Marriott; Fr Christian in-depth textual analysis, to contemporary, doctrines. Afterwards I consult a Catholic Rutishauser; Rabbi Deborah Khan Harris; Rabbi interpretative or creative approaches. theologian, Sister Katarzyna Kowalska, Howard Cooper; Haus Ohrbeck In the afternoons, there are lectures by from the Order of the Sisters of Zion. She scholars followed by Q and A sessions. All agrees that this is serious but reassures me Elena Ferrante, Primo Levi and the Bible, participants are free to present material later by emailing me her order’s mission Rabbi Cooper allows his rabbinic and in the afternoons and statement. “We are called psychoanalytic imaginations to mingle. evenings in slots called “My group to witness by our life to Jonah comes to life in scenes past and Speakers Corner and God’s faithful love for the present. “The literary potential of the Fringe. includes Lutheran Jewish people. This call Bible!” I say to myself. But there is a further And there are plenty pastors, Catholic implies that our apostolic point to Rabbi Cooper’s exposition. From of tea breaks, coffee life is characterised by a Jonah we must learn to have compassion breaks and very tasty and Protestant threefold commitment: for the planet – or there will be drought. non- meals. There theologians and to the Church, to the On Friday night, Christians are is also a choir, made two Jews” Jewish people and to a welcome to attend services. Jews up of participants, that world of justice, peace can attend Lutheran Vespers on Saturday practises daily between study sessions. and love”. evening, and Catholic mass on Sunday British composer Rebekka Wedell`s On Thursday there is no lecture morning – without taking communion. haunting composition ‘Kol Korei – A Voice but instead a jubilee celebration: My overall impression of Bibelwoche Calling – Eine Stimme Ruf’ echoes the representatives from German radio, is that it is an oasis of brotherhood, ethos of the first Bibelwoche in 1968 by Osnabrück dignitaries and religious leaders sisterhood and hope in our increasingly drawing on Isaiah 40 and its themes of come to visit. Many of the sloganised world. One repentance and the words of Martin Buber: speakers refer to their Jewish attendee, with “Alles wirkliche Leben ist Begegnung” (All fears over the recent years of experience, true life is encounter). rise in antisemitism in acknowledged that there Each afternoon, there is a lecture Germany and Europe. had, on occasions, been relating to this year’s chosen texts. At Later, the choir sings to difficult moments. How the Monday session, Rabbi Dr Deborah the audience and we sing could there not have Khan Harris, the principal of Leo Baeck back. Rebekka Wedell’s been? For myself, I felt a College, tells us: “Every generation must piece is interwoven with little uncertainty about discover the text of the for quotations from Bach’s the status of Israel, then themselves, making it relevant for their ‘Passacaglia for Organ’. and now within the own lives.” Citing ‘second-wave’ feminism, She wants the occasion to framework of Jewish- environmentalism, as well as queer, reflect the importance of Christian relations. post-colonial and indigenous readings of German culture to both The nearest I got to a the Bible, she gives no quarter to those, Christians and Jews – and conversation about like myself, who are neither sociologists it does. the real Jerusalem, as nor theologians. But her conclusion: “We And when the opposed to the heavenly must have ears to hear all those whose speeches celebrating (textual) one, was an voices have been marginalised, silenced, 50 years of this unlikely exchange about birds. ignored,” is moving. annual gathering are over, The swifts that descend On Tuesday, Imam Halima Krausen we are invited outside. annually on Jerusalem fail shares perspectives on the creation story Jews, Christians, nuns, to distinguish between from the Qur’an. Krausen was Imam of the priests, theologians, and Jewish, Muslim and Islamic Centre in Hamburg for 20 years some children troop Christian rooftops! and is a fellow of the Academy of World outside into the grounds But the week’s Religions at Hamburg University. She tells of Haus Ohrbeck to be cultural components felt us that there are seven different creation entertained with dinner, less significant than the stories in the Muslim holy book. She cites cakes and wine. It’s a opportunity to meet and familiar stories and characters, such as merry scene. You might talk with such a lively those of Adam and Eve and Abraham, in think that celebrating collection of people. new contexts. Readers may have come together is actually the Christians, whose raison across Krausen’s lectures at Limmud, and only real function of the d’être was engaging her commitment to interfaith work shines world’s religions. with Jews and , like a light from her session. Small groups settle rabbis and other Jews On Wednesday, the Swiss Jesuit, Fr Dr themselves at trestle for whom the concepts Christian Rutishauser, delivers a lecture tables that seem to have of ‘or lagoyim’ (a light to called The Suffering Servant: an invitation magically appeared. A the nations) and ‘tikkun to repent. Rutishauser is a member of the klezmer trio begins to play olam’ (repairing the Vatican Commission for Religious Relations under an old tree. It does not stop until world) include enthusiastic commitment with Judaism, and a permanent counsellor the sun sets. And in the gathering dusk, a to outreach and interfaith work. As we to the Pope on this matter. The section of circle appears of people dancing together. might say in Hebrew, “Leshanah haba’ah Isaiah we are focusing on is a core topic A Reverend Mother of the Carmelites, be’Osnabrück”. Next year in Osnabrück. n in Jewish-Christian relations (a Jewish two rabbis, teachers, a Catholic priest, a woman I once knew became a Christian Lutheran, an Orthodox Jewish woman, an Next year’s Jewish-Christian Bible Week runs after reading Isaiah). Again I feel keenly my Israeli teacher, dancing hand in hand. from 28 July to 4 August, 2019. Bookings are limitations in academic theology but warm On Friday, Rabbi Howard Cooper, a from February 2019. See: https: haus-ohrbeck.de. to the speaker’s personality. psychoanalyst, presents a session called Deborah Freeman is a playwright and short story Rutishauser says that the retired Pope Jonah Unbound. Quoting Philip Roth, writer. See deborahfreeman.co.uk

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 13 PASSPORT MEXICO ave you heard the one about the rabbi and the cannonball? It may sound like the premise for an unlikely joke, but the question FROM Hrefers to an incident during the Mexican Revolution. Isaac Dabbah, a Syrian Jew who immigrated to Mexico from Aleppo and became one of the first Jewish community leaders of the 20th century, tells the story in his memoir. In 1913, TIJUANA during the peak of the armed struggle that transformed Mexican society, there was a bout of fighting on Mexico City’s Jesus Maria Street, home to many Jewish residents. One shot hit the apartment of fellow Syrian immigrant Rabbi Shlomo TO Lobaton. Reportedly, the cannonball got stuck in the building’s electric meter and failed to explode. Since Lobaton’s flat also served as a makeshift synagogue, housing Mexico’s first Torah scroll, the survival of the building and its holy contents was CANCUN considered a miracle. Today, Mexico is going through MEXICO’S JEWS ARE another political revolution as a result of the triumph of Andrés Manuel López FACING THE FUTURE Obrador in July’s presidential elections. A fiery leftist politician, López Obrador won by a landslide. Once a member of the As Mexico’s radical new president, Andrés Manuel López Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI), which dominated for 71 years, he then Obrador, prepares to take office, Emilio Betech Rophie tests positioned himself as an outsider intent the mood of the country’s distinctive Jewish community on cleansing the system of its endemic corruption and neoliberal economics. The ground is shifting in Mexico.

14 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 What this means to the Jewish in the ever-increasing to the work of Tribuna community remains to be seen. As list of committees and Israelita, the Comité Mexico City mayor (from 2000 to 2005), community ventures. Central’s public affairs López Obrador maintained an amicable One recurring joke is office, which liaises with relationship with Jewish leaders; now, a that when two Mexican journalists, engages handful of notable Jews are members of Jews meet, just like that, in interfaith dialogue either his National Regeneration Movement a new comité is born. and supports the Israeli (MORENA) party or his circle of advisors. There are committees embassy’s outreach In July, , a MORENA for the young, the elderly, the not-so- projects. It represents a politician, became the first woman mayor young-yet-not-so-old; committees that unified voice for Jewish organisations in of Mexico City (see p29). She is Jewish promote business networking, art and dealings with the Mexican government. – although not formally affiliated to the theatre. There are film and book clubs, Yet there are worrying trends that keep community. However, there are fears a dance festival, an addiction recovery community leaders up at night. While that extreme left influences in the party network, groups for visiting the sick, and Mexican Jews mostly enjoyed prosperity might prevail and impact on the country’s study programmes. An international during the latter half of the 20th century, traditionally close relationship with Israel. Jewish film festival (see p22) tours to reach the challenges posed by globalisation since Yet the Jews of Mexico have reason audiences that may never have had contact the late 1980s have proved a turning point. to feel optimistic. It’s 106 years since the with Judaism. El Aleph, a weekly radio Today’s families face difficulties to make foundation of Alianza Monte Sinai, Mexico’s show, covers all aspects of Jewish life and ends meet; an increasing number depend first Jewish organisation, set up to unite has a large non-Jewish audience. on welfare from Jewish institutions. the country's Jews. Since then, the story has There are also hundreds of charities. There is also a stifling strain of been one of good fortune, warm conviviality One, CADENA (see p22), provides materialism. Many families feel they must and acculturation. It has become almost a assistance to victims of emergencies and keep up with their neighbours: sending cliché to rave about how gefilte fish is eaten natural disasters around the world and their children to private Jewish schools, and ‘a la veracruzana’, simmered in a spicy played a significant part in rescuing people spending money on fashionable vacations, sauce; or how Mizrahi Jews dip their trapped by the Mexican earthquake last clothes and private healthcare. (wheat ) in September. Another preoccupation is the alarming and top them with a tart jalapeño chilli. Since 1950, Mexican Jews from all levels of violence that have plagued the MEXICO Mexican Jews have risen to prominence backgrounds have found enjoyment in country since at least 2006, when then- in areas including business, medicine, Mexico City’s Centro Deportivo Israelita, president Felipe Calderon declared an film production, academia, engineering or ‘Depor’, as it is dubbed, an impressive open war on drug-trafficking. Assaults and and journalism. And if you happen to sports and recreation club. It operates robberies are a part of everyday life here. attend Friday night services in a Mexican three separate campuses The State of Mexico, home synagogue, it is not unusual to hear the and in the main campus to many Jews, has one of chazan intone the Kaddish to the melody of alone, there is an Olympic- “It’s common the highest numbers of a mariachi song. size swimming pool as well to hear the homicides and extortions However, this is also a story of insularity. as another indoor pool, 13 in the nation. Will López Mexico’s approximately 50,000 Jews tend tennis courts, a football chazzan intone Obrador stem the violence? to live near to each other in a handful of pitch, a softball court, three the Kaddish to But the future looks suburban neighbourhoods. Around 90 per gymnasiums, restaurants, a bright. In January 2019, cent live in the greater Mexico City area bowling alley, a theatre club the melody of a the Mexican Jewish with smaller communities in Guadalajara, and much more. mariachi song” Documentation and Monterrey, Tijuana and Cancun. More than Mexico has also Investigation Centre half are Sephardi and Mizrahi and there is imported programmes from around the (CDIJUM) will open a new headquarters a prevalence of Orthodoxy: in Mexico City Jewish world, such as Britain’s Limmud, in an impressive building built on the there are two Conservative congregations South Africa’s Shabbos Project, and Israel’s courtyard of an old synagogue in the alongside four larger Orthodox ones. They Taglit-Birthright. Mexican participation Roma district. Open to all for research and socialise within the tribe and marry other in these has often been record-breaking cultural activities, the CDIJUM holds over Jews. Even conversions are disallowed in on a global scale. Last January Rabbi Lord 120,000 documents, photos and rare books the two largest congregations, Maguen Jonathan Sacks visited the Latin-American from across Mexico. “This is a pioneering David and Monte Sinai, both of which country, delivering talks in synagogues, project that seeks to reclaim our unity,” says represent the Syrian Jewish population. schools and community centres. “The fact Enrique Chmelnik, CDIJUM’s executive Most young Jews attend university that two prominent rabbis like Sacks and director. “The first Jewish organisation while still living at home. Social functions, the Shabbos Project’s Warren Goldstein in Mexico was founded in 1912 with Jews friends and family are all safely bounded came to Mexico and expressed their of differing backgrounds. These factions within the community. Mexican non-Jews admiration for our community says a lot”, formed their own congregations, but there often describe their Jewish compatriots as says Emilio Penhos Mougrabi, a planner for is now a drift towards more collaboration.” ‘cerrados’, meaning closed. Sacks’ visit. The descendants of those wandering Still, the community is a global success Sacks’ lectures astonished Mexican immigrants who crossed the oceans in story. Intermarriage is paltry. Most audiences because the notion that an search of a better future have thrived. families send their children to a Jewish Orthodox rabbi can be a public intellectual Jews such as Rabbi Lobaton found that school. And, according to the Comité was new to many here – and some these new lands had their own dramas, Central, the federation of Mexico’s Jewish Orthodox rabbis called on their followers and sometimes the fallout would hit their communities, around 95 per cent of to stay away from his talks. But Sacks’ places of dwelling. But Jews love finding members are affiliated with an institution appearances were sold out and broadcast to evidence of miracles. In the case of Mexico, involved in Jewish life. Communal thousands on Facebook and YouTube. a struggling tropical nation bursting with organisations are well funded, and around Mexican Jews have also experienced flavour, colour and good humour, they have

COURTESY OF THE DOCUMENTATION CENTER OF THE DOCUMENTATION COURTESY 4,000 Mexican Jews of all ages volunteer little recent antisemitism. This is partly due built their own miracle. n

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 15 PASSPORT A hidden history Ilan Stavans tells Rebecca Taylor about a dark but fascinating period of Mexico's past

n Mexico, the role of the Spanish Inquisition was mostly uncovering “Iheretics, witches, deviants, and subversives. Jews – who were almost non- existent, at least when it came to engaging in religious rituals openly – weren’t the principal target," says Ilan Stavans, a Mexican writer, TV and radio host and a professor of Latin American studies at Amhurst College, USA. In his 2012 book, Return to Centro Histórico: A Mexican Jew Looks for his Roots, he revisits his hometown, Mexico City, to uncover the history of Jewish life in Mexico. Jews arrived surreptitiously in , as Mexico was called, from 1492, after they were expelled from Spain. Those caught practising their religion could be accused of ‘Judaising’, a crime punishable

MEXICO by being burnt at the stake in a public auto- da-fé. “There are few Jewish traces of this period,” says Stavans. “Although several non-Jewish cemeteries in the state of Monterrey (today Arizona and New Mexico) have tombstones that incorporate symbols including lions of Judah, Hebrew letters and menorot, embedded in Catholic imagery.” During Mexico’s War of Independence (from 1810-1821), the term ‘Judaiser’ became a moniker for a freedom fighter against the Spanish Crown. “The colonial time was a fertile ground for spiritual exploration but often the journey was performed in the shadows, in fear of being caught by the authorities. It is a period defined by the crossroads of identity: how to be Jewish in an environment where Catholicism is 's mural Dream of Sunday Afternoon in ferocious,” says Stavans. His next book, The Alameda Park, showing an Inquisition scene, with Seventh Heaven: Travels through Jewish Mariana de Carvajal being burnt at the stake (far left) Latin America, will be published next year.

A LATIN AMERICAN UNDER SPANISH RULE

SUCCESS STORY FROM 1530 more conversos 1579 King Philip II of Spain How did a hidden, persecuted group emerge to arrive. They integrate into the establishes Nuevo Leon, a become one of Mexico’s most confident immigrant Mexican elite, some returning colony north of Nueva Espagna, communities? By Janet Levin to Jewish practice, others joining to be governed by Luis de the clergy. Carvajal, a Portuguese/Spanish 1519 A few conversos – those 1571 The Mexican Inquisition is nobleman born to conversos. forced to convert to Christianity established. To boost the population of in Spain – arrive in Mexico with the country, conversos and Cortés in what is then called practising Jews are welcomed. Nueva Espagna (New Spain), 1586 The Mexican Inquisition fleeing the Inquisition. turns to persecuting Jews.

16 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 RETURN TO CENTRO HISTÓRICO de Carvajal the Younger, known as El World. Mexico was a temporary home. My With the expulsion of the Jews from the Iluminado, who died in an auto-da-fé in mother emphasises, however, that every 16 Iberian Peninsula in 1492 and the first Mexico City in 1596. He was the nephew September, Mexico’s Independence Day, of Columbus’s four voyages, the New of Luis de Carvajal y de la Cueva, a slave Jews place a flower arrangement at the World became a safe haven for Spanish trader and ‘pacifier’ of Indian tribes who Ángel [the statue of independence at Pasco Jews and, a decade later, their Portuguese served as governor of the northern state de la Reforma, Mexico City]. counterparts. This Sephardi community of Nuevo León. That prominence put him I want to visit the Plaza de Santo spoke Spanish, Ladino, and other Judaeo- on the spot as a judaisante, a practitioner Domingo, where the Antiguo Palacio de la Spanish languages. of the Mosaic laws. Carvajal the Younger’s Inquisición, now the Museo de la Medicina, Some Sephardim converted to life story (he reconverted to Judaism after still stands. An ornate stone building, this Catholicism but practised Judaism in an act of self-circumcision and believed is where, starting in 1610, autos-da-fé secret and are known as crypto-Jews. (It himself to be the Messiah) is also recounted took place in Mexico City and where the is believed that several crew members in Arturo Ripstein’s movie El Santo Oficio, Punishment Tribunals of the Holy Office in Columbus’s three ships, as well as a about the Holy Office of the Inquisition. were located. number of soldiers in Hernán Cortés’s The best narratives about this chapter The air is heavy. Clearly, I’m at a vortex army, were crypto-Jews.) in Mexico’s past are by where hatred reigned. Not The Spanish Inquisition was an Angelina Muníz-Huberman, “The word too long before, I had been ecclesiastical tribunal that began in whose novels such as La ‘Judaiser’ studying the work of Sor Juana the Kingdom of Aragon in 1232. By the Burladora de Toledo, about Inés de la Cruz, arguably the middle of the 15th century it was largely a trickster, and anthologies became a most accomplished Colonial forgotten. It was, however, revived in 1478 on the Sephardi past are moniker for poet in the Spanish language, by Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabella of a lightning rod. Not only who authored, among Castile, who declared open war against Mexicans, but Mexican Jews a freedom other works, a memorable heretics. The role of the Inquisition was to themselves, have never heard fighter” philosophical satire on the ensure the orthodoxy of recent converts. of Carvajal the Younger, myself way women let themselves be Jews were seen as unwelcome, but they included—at least until I left the country manipulated by men. She worked within were not the Inquisition’s prime target. and made an effort to begin exploring the the confines of the Church. Yet at the The Holy Office was after New Christians past. end of her life, the inquisitorial religious MEXICO suspected of being practitioners of Mosaic More familiar is the tale of the ‘Indian establishment took away everything she law. From the end of the 15th century, Jews of Venta Prieta’, a community in the had and forbade her to write again. Her Spanish and Portuguese Jews had their state of Hidalgo [see p30] that is said to punishment for being adventurous was choices narrowed dramatically to three descend from crypto-Jews who reconverted forced silence. More serious offenders options: conversion, exile or death. The last to Judaism in the middle of the 19th (heretics, witches, paedophiles, two included confiscation of property. century. But a serious study of its origins transsexuals) suffered far worse: they were The debate at the time focused on the (the ethnographer Raphael Patai, in a burned at the stake. notion of ‘limpieza de sangre’, purity of seldom-discussed essay, argued that they I had never visited the museum blood. The Inquisition was irked by the actually descend from Jehovah’s Witnesses) before. Unfortunately, it isn’t altogether so-called converts. The word in Spanish remains to be done. In any case, I cannot impressive. It includes a sample of torture is ‘conversos’. Scores of Jews had chosen remember any mention of Carvajal the instruments, but the overall history of the that path, but their embrace of the Younger or Venta Prieta while I was at La Inquisition is presented in a rather sketchy Christian faith in some cases (impossible Yidishe [Stavan’s Yiddish school]. fashion. Actually, most of the items are to know how many exactly) produced a It was as if our teachers had decided about medicine. The museum might be double identity: publicly they were New that our education would be about present- faulted for omitting a crucial part of the Christians, ‘cristianos nuevos’, but in the day Mexico. Instead, the pedagogical country’s past. But it is hardly the sole privacy of their homes a few kept practising approach emphasised the Holocaust. On institution to be guilty of this lapse. Truth their Jewish faith. Yom haShoah, for instance, the entire is, this chapter in Mexican history remains Studies of crypto-Jewish life in colonial school gathered in the auditorium to sing unknown. n Mexico are scant. Of the few, many are Holocaust-related songs. A large picture of biased, as in the case of Alfonso Toro’s The Mordecai Anilevitch, a hero in the This is an edited extract from Return to Centro Carvajal Family, a megavolume published ghetto uprising, hung in the patio of La Histórico: A Mexican Jew Looks for his Roots in 1944 and filled with tendentious Yidishe. In other words, our communal by Ilan Stavans, Rutgers University Press, 2012. statements. Toro’s subject is an important icons were Old World partisans. The Angelitos: a graphic novel by Ilan Stavans and CLAUDIA CRUZ BARIGELLI; WIKI COMMONS CRUZ CLAUDIA

© episode: the sorrowful adventures of Luis message was clear. Our heart was in the Old Santiago Cohen, Latinographix, 2018.

NEW WAVES OF IMMIGRATION

1857 A liberal constitution 1880s More Jews arrive, many brings freedom of religion. pushed from Russia by the Jews arrive from Germany and assassination of Tsar Alexander II. Eastern Europe. LATE 19TH CENTURY Some Native Americans who Sephardi and Middle Eastern 1589 The Carvajal family are 1606 Spain orders the release of 1821 Spain accepts Mexico’s believe they are descended from Jews arrive from what is now persecuted. Luis de Carvajal conversos from Mexican prisons. independence. A constitutional crypto-Jews return to Judaism. Syria and the Ottoman Empire. dies in prison. Monterrey still has 1640 Portuguese conversos monarchy is replaced with 1867 Benito Juárez becomes Poorer Eastern European Jews customs of the original settlers arrive and set up new trade links. a republic. The Inquisition is president and enforces the arrive in small towns Puebla, but most descendants have 1810 Mexican War of abolished but conversos are separation of Church and State. Chipas and Veracruz before emigrated to New Mexico. Independence begins. slow to practise Judaism openly. moving to Mexico City.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 17 PASSPORT The synagogue on Jesus and Mary Street Jews have made Mexico City their home since the time of the Spanish Inquisition. Adrian Whittle takes a tour of the capital city to uncover the Jewish stories behind its colourful streets

hen the Spanish conquistador Diego Rivera. I had read a quote from Hernan Cortes arrived in Mexico Rivera, made in 1935, where he said, "My W in 1519, among his entourage Jewishness is the dominant element in my were a number of conversos – Jews forcibly life. From this has come my sympathy with converted to Christianity in Spain in 1492 the downtrodden masses which motivates during the Spanish Inquisition. Conversos all my work". emigrated in large numbers to Mexico – In 1865 Emperor Maximilian issued known as New Spain – at the time. Despite an edict of religious tolerance, opening the presence of the Inquisition in Mexico the way for Jewish immigration and open many attempted to secretly maintain practice of the faith. The first immigrants Jewish customs including dietary laws, to arrive in Mexico City were from Syria, circumcision and keeping Shabbat. Greece and Turkey. Later European During a visit to Mexico City, I went Jews arrived, escaping the pogroms and on a tour led by Monica Unikel-Fasja. economic misery of the old continent. Monica is the author of Sinagogas de Many settled in an area around the Calle Mexico (Synagogues of Mexico) and guided Jesus Maria (Jesus and Mary Street). Monica me around the city's Centro Historico, tells the story of one Eastern European Jew which included the who settled in the city site of the Inquisition and wrote back to tell

MEXICO headquarters. “Diego Rivera is a relative that he had The Inquisition, the most famous found work, the climate which operated until as claimant to a Jewish was good, the Mexicans late as 1820 in Mexico, friendly and there was early 1920s, with the children gathering in encouraged people to identity through even a synagogue. Why the small rooms to learn Hebrew. identify friends and the converso link” didn’t they come to In Calle Jesus Maria, Monica showed even relatives suspected Mexico too, he asked. me another courtyard. It was here that of ‘Judaising’, that is, of secretly practising When the relative replied asking the name children not attending the formal Jewish Judaism. Suspects were tortured, tried and of the synagogue he wrote back saying it school could take lessons from a man who in some cases publicly burned at the stake. was called “the Jesus and Mary" synagogue. became known as ‘the teacher’, receiving The building that housed the Inquisition The relative was, reportedly, shocked. instruction in Hebrew and the Torah. This headquarters still stands opposite Santo The community that the enthusiastic courtyard was also home to a Jewish bakery. Domingo Plaza, its slanted corner designed immigrant wrote of included a Jewish At Calle Jesus Maria 22, there was a grocery to be visible from all directions upon school, kosher eateries, a kosher butcher, run by a woman called Ana, who was entering the plaza. bakeries, tailors and even a Jewish midwife. famous for her pickles and . Today, Many Mexicans can still trace their The first Jewish school was set up in a a statue of the Virgin Mary stands above the descent to conversos. Some have tried with series of rooms around a tiny courtyard at space where the shop once stood. varying degrees of success to be accepted Calle Republica de Colombia 16 in 1924. We also had a quick look at the market, into the country's established Jewish Although the courtyard is now surrounded Mercado Abelardo Roderiquez, which communities. Perhaps the most famous by flats with lines of washing hanging was built in 1934, and had many modern claimant to a Jewish identity through across the landings, it is easy to imagine features, such as a day care centre. The the converso link was renowned artist the school as it would have been back in the market complex includes a theatre, Teatro

A COMMUNITY ON THE RISE

1901-1904 Turkish and FROM 1917 When a more 1920 Father Rivas, a converso 1930 The Jewish population of Ashekenazi Jews begin holding anti-clerical constitution is descendant, establishes an Mexico is estimated at 21,000. open religious services established, immigrants arrive organisation for 3,000 Native The first Hebrew-language 1905 the first Torah, from Russia, eastern Europe American Jews, who claim printing press is brought to a religious school for boys, is and the Middle East. Many descent from conversos. The Mexico. founded. 1910-1920 The Mexican community organisations are Kadosh Bnei Elohim community 1930s A new wave of Revolution and subsequent civil founded. is established in Venta Prieta. immigrants arrives fleeing the war lead to some Jews leaving. 1923 The Mount Sinai Nazis, mostly those who already Synagogue is founded in have family or friends in Mexico. Mexico City.

18 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 Clockwise: inside Nidje Israel; Nidje Israel; family at Xochimilco, 1940s; at the station, 1920s; off Calle Jesus Mary; Reunion St, 1910s; (centre) Monte Sinai

against Jews, calling for their expulsion or restrictions on their economic activity. However, these sentiments never achieved the mass support seen in Europe. This was partly helped by the efforts of the Jewish community to express its identity as Mexican: the community displayed the Mexican flag in its synagogues and took part in celebrations such as the annual commemoration of the 1910 Revolution, in which the Maccabi sports club participated. What of the new synagogue? The Nidje Israel synagogue is an impressive building at Calle Justo Sierra 71. However, without the Star of David on the door, it would be impossible to identify it as a place of worship – its Ashkenazi founders were possibly keen to keep it anonymous. The building was designed by the engineers Gerson and Jinich, and construction was completed in 1941. The synagogue was the focus of the Ashkenazi community in the area for many years but as they moved away to the suburbs of Roma, Condesa and Polanco, attendance dropped and the building fell into disrepair. A minyan was maintained MEXICO for some years through the efforts of the Herrera family, who were converts to Judaism. but eventually worship stopped here altogether. Thanks to the efforts of Monica and others in the community, the synagogue del Pueblo, where Yiddish plays were once commemorated with a plaque inside the has now been restored. The interior is full performed. synagogue. Apparently he died in poverty of light and colour. My gaze was drawn Jews no longer live in this part of having given away much of his fortune. to the ceiling, which is covered with the city although several still maintain The building has undergone renovation symbols such as the tablets with the ten businesses here and Monica sometimes and some of its original features have been commandments and menorot. The design sees mezuzot on shop door posts. lost, but its exterior (which is original) is is reminiscent of the folk art once found There are two synagogues in the area. beautiful. There is still a daily minyan at in the wooden synagogues of Lithuania, Today, the Monte on the synagogue. Visitors can enter as part of Romania, Hungary and the . Calle Justo Sierra is for the Syrian (mostly a tour or prearranged appointment. Although it no longer holds services, Damascus) and Lebanese community. During the 1930s and 40s, many in the synagogue stages cultural events to But its original congregation was made the Centro Historico’s Jewish community promote understanding of Jewish heritage. up of Jews from a variety of backgrounds began to prosper and gain in confidence. The response has been positive – Chanukah – many were from the former Ottoman As the situation for European Jews celebrations have attracted many non- Empire who arrived in the city in the deteriorated, Mexico's Jews had the means Jewish visitors over the years. n early years of the 20th century. It was to build a new synagogue, near to Monte founded in 1923 through the efforts of Sinai. For Jewish Mexico City tours contact Monica: Salonica-born Isaac Capon and other Mexico was not immune to the [email protected]. See: members of the congregation. Capon fascism that was sweeping Europe and sinagogajustosierra.com. Adrian Whittle is an arts

COURTESY OF THE DOCUMENTATION CENTER; WIKI COMMONS; GETTY CENTER; WIKI COMMONS; OF THE DOCUMENTATION COURTESY financed many charitable activities and is antisemitic organisations demonstrated writer. See: adrianyekkes.blogspot.co.uk.

1931 As many as 250 Jewish 1937 An quota system restricts 1940s AND 1950s SEPTEMBER 2017 merchants are expelled from immigration from countries such Jewish community organisations Though the Jewish community the La Lagunilla Market in as Poland to 100 people per year coalesce and grow. is against the proposed ‘Trump Mexico City, one of only a few but at the same time there is wall’, they celebrate a recent visit antisemitic incidents at a time of provision for some immigration TODAY of Benjamin Netanyahu despite economic depression. of refugees. Out of a total of 128 million his support for the wall. Only the JULY 2018 Claudia Sheinbaum 1942 The Central Committee Mexicans, 40,000-50,000 are progressive organisation J-AmLat Pardo is the first Jew and first of the Jewish Communities of Jewish. About 75% live in Mexico expresses criticism of his policies. woman to be elected mayor of Mexico is established. City. Most are descended from Mexico City. late 19th- or early 20th-century immigrants.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 19 PASSPORT The revolutionary who helped Trotsky, partied with Kahlo and put Mexican art on the map Anita Brenner was the writer and activist who brought the world’s attention to the work of her friends – Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siqueiros. Alan Grabinsky explores her life and work

n 1916, as war raged in the Mexican city of Aguascalientes, 11-year-old Anita IBrenner and her family got into a car and sped towards the station. They had escaped Mexico before, but this time it was for good: Brenner’s father had sold all of their belongings to pay for the train ticket. The family settled in San Antonio, Texas. But Anita grew up feeling out of place. San Antonio was her first encounter with practising Jews, but they were nothing like the kings and queens that she had read about in biblical stories. As a Mexican-born American Jew, she was in a murky area: shunned as a Mexican by the American Jews, and discriminated against as a Jew by many American gentiles.

MEXICO During her first year at the University of Texas she experienced antisemitism when she tried to find accommodation. Much to her father’s disapproval, she decided to return to Mexico – which was in the early aftermath of the Revolution. When Anita arrived in Mexico City in 1923, she found herself in the midst of a group of intellectuals and artists who have since become myths. In cafes and parties she mixed with artists such as Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, and José Clemente Orozco. As a journalist, anthropologist and cultural promoter, Anita highlighted the movement called Mexican Renaissance in the United States, her hybrid identity allowing her to crisscross national boundaries. Anita’s father, Isidore Brenner, was an American-naturalised entrepreneur from Latvia who travelled by bicycle across the US before settling in the Mexican state of Aguascalientes in the late 19th century. Porfirio Diaz, the president of Mexico at the time, promoted foreign investment across the country and turned Aguascalientes into the headquarters of American companies such as the Smelting Company, owned by the Guggenheim brothers. Isidore first worked as a waiter, but gradually he established his own business, bought land to build a stable and plant fruit trees, and became a prominent public figure. But many indigenous communities resented Diaz’s economic policies and suffered under an oppressive landowning scheme that excluded them from the profits. This created an explosive social

20 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 situation with anger against the foreign landowners. When Anita, who was born in 1905, was five years old, her Mexican nanny had pointed to the Halley comet and said it was a bad omen. She was right: that same year, there was a revolution to overthrow Diaz. With American investors’ interests in mind, the US intervened in favour of Diaz, and portrayed Mexico as a chaotic country that was falling apart. The intervention by the US sparked strong anti-American sentiments in Mexico: American flags were burned, consulates and American businesses attacked, and white-skinned foreigners were subject to harassment. Fearing for their lives as American nationals and property owners, the Brenner family fled the country. When 18-year-old Anita came back, Mexico was healing from the wounds of war and going through an incredibly creative phase. The Revolution, despite the horrible violence, had encouraged an evaluation of Mexico’s indigenous roots. There was a profound questioning of the country’s Eurocentric narrative that had existed since the Spanish conquest in 1519. These articles were the beginning of Overall, she wrote more than 400 Anita soaked it all up. She was a lifelong mission to promote Mexican articles for different publications and MEXICO convinced that art had a major role to culture to an American audience. Anita published dozens of books, including The play in the self-fashioning of this new moved to New York in 1925 and published Wind that Swept Mexico, the first account Mexico. She became friends with American in English her most famous book, Idols of the Mexican Revolution in English. She liberal journalists and writers such as behind the Altars, an eclectic view of was, above all, a connector. Her parties John Dos Passos, who were covering the Mexico’s indigenous traditions and were legendary, and she also organised the social transformation, as well as forming contemporary artists. The book, which shows of many of her artist friends. relationships with like-minded muralists positioned the work of Rivera and Orozco as Ten years after she moved back to Rivera, Orozco, and David Alfaro Siqueiros. a continuation of Mexican popular culture, Mexico, in 1955, she established the She became conscious of Mexico’s was an instant hit: she received letters of magazine Mexico This Month, which negative portrayal in the American praise from Spanish writer quickly turned into a media, and read in the US press about the Miguel de Unamuno and Who’s Who of emerging unfavorable situation for Jews south of the British writer Richard “Art had a major artists, and featured border. But Anita welcomed immigrant Hughes. She was only 24 role to play names such as Pedro Jews into the Gulf of Mexico port of years old. Friedberg and Mathias Veracruz and was a fervent defender of her Her intellectual in the self- Goeritz. In the 1960s, birth country: her first journalism pieces in prowess never waned. In fashioning of she returned to her The Nation and for the Jewish Telegraphic 1929, under the tutorship this new Mexico” family’s plot of land Agency explicitly painted a positive picture of Frank Boaz, she in Aguascalientes and of Mexico as a haven for Jews. graduated with a PhD in started growing fruit anthropology from Columbia University. and vegetables. In 1974 she died in a car She won a Guggenheim fellowship, which accident on her way to her ranch. Anita Brenner by Tina Modotti, 1926; Self-portrait along the border line between Mexico and the she used to travel to Europe and the Her daughter, Susannah Joel Glusker United States by Frida Kahlo; Diego Rivera with a Mexican state of Guerrero. As a journalist (who died in 2013), said locals often talked xoloitzcuintle dog in the Blue House, Coyoacan for the New York Times, she defended those to her about sightings of Anita Brenner’s who had been jailed in the Spanish Civil ghost, who appears as a floating blonde War. woman and tells children to plant trees in In 1933 she interviewed Leon Trotsky her honour. for The Nation; a couple of years later, Despite the role that Anita played in when he had fled to Norway, she contacted building bridges between countries, she Rivera and told him that getting Trotsky remained a stranger in her land. When out of Europe was a matter of life or death. the Mexican government awarded her the Rivera lobbied for Trotsky with Mexican Aztec Eagle, the highest honour given to a president Lazaro Cardenas, who granted foreigner, Brenner declined it because she him asylum and Anita helped organise had been born in Mexico. This life-long Trotsky’s acquittal trial in Mexico. But conflict is summarized in the line of a she grew increasingly concerned about poem that she wrote in her 20s: “Daughter antisemitic attacks in Mexico City: as of two countries, citizen of none.” n fascism raged in Europe, she wrote about groups who were organising mass violence Anita Brenner: Mind of her Own by Susannah

COURTESY OF THE WITTLIFF COLLECTIONS, TEXAS STATE UNIVERSITY; COURTESY OF WWW.FRIDAKAHLO.ORG; WIKI COMMONS OF WWW.FRIDAKAHLO.ORG; COURTESY UNIVERSITY; TEXAS STATE OF THE WITTLIFF COLLECTIONS, COURTESY against immigrants. Joel Glusker, 1998, University of Texas Press.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 21 PASSPORT “We are creating new ways to be Jewish” Mexico City has a dynamic and creative Jewish community. Rebecca Taylor meets some of its cultural movers and shakers

ISIDORO HAMUI (31) Director of the Mexican International Jewish Film Festival “I always had an interest in culture. The Syrian Jewish community, in which I grew up, is interested in religion, Jewish institutions and textiles – but not culture! But I wanted to put on things that were fun for young people. I organised concerts and became involved in the film festival. I brought in a larger team

MEXICO and films that would attract non-Jews – not just our donors. The audience has ELIAS FASJA (66) grown enormously – it is now a major Musician and founder of Sefarad, a international festival. Sephardi performance group I also help my father with his work – “My show mixes poetry, Ladino he has a factory producing the sweetener readings and flamenco. It talks about stevia. My grandfather came to Mexico the Jewish relationship with Mexico, from Aleppo about 100 years ago. He in particular regarding the expulsion started off in New York but saw business from Spain in 1492. It also touches on opportunities over the border. On my the lives of those who spoke Ladino. mother’s side, the family came in 1929. We perform to mostly non-Jewish They thought the plane was heading for the audiences. I used to work in the US but when they arrived they saw palm textile industry. These days, I also trees and realised this wasn’t New York! work for an entertainment licensing Mexicans don’t really learn about company. Judaism but there is a respect – even a love My family is from Aleppo – my – for Jews here. We are regarded as part grandfather came from Turkey to of the culture. The cynical, ‘Jewish’ way of Syria. We eat Syrian food, such as talking is similar to the way Mexicans talk. kibbeh (meatballs), but chilli comes Both make fun of themselves.” ficjm.org with everything! My family lives in the Mexico City suburbs. Our three BENJAMIN LANIADO (46) children went to Jewish schools and Director of CADENA humanitarian relief agency keep varying degrees of observance. “CADENA is able to operate at incredible teams in the field. We rescued nine people. It’s easy to be Jewish here but the speed, mobilising the resources of the It was dangerous and stressful. But helping Mexican population is not familiar Jewish world – through partnerships with to save people is the most beautiful thing. with Jewish history. That is why the the American Jewish Joint Distribution The world often displays indifference to culture centre at the Nidje Israel Committee, IsraAID, local communities global crises and I set up CADENA in 2005 synagogue is important (see p18). and humanitarian organisations – to get to try and change this. Now CADENA is a There is little assimilation and that to disaster zones in record time. We have a Mexican institution. I often talk around the might be because the community team of over 60 people who are trained in world about the work we do in the name of fears racism. Mexicans who have Israel and we have worked in Haiti, Turkey, the Jewish people. lighter, European looks don’t Chile, Guatemala, Ecuador, Belize and My family is originally from Aleppo and BARIGELLI CRUZ CLAUDIA experience racism, but those who Costa Rica. But the Mexican earthquake of Jerusalem and I grew up in a religiously are darker sometimes do, and the September 2017 was a real challenge. observant household. I go with my family community perhaps worries about I’ve had the privilege to save a lot of to synagogue every week. The community BEATRIZ SOKOL; © SOKOL; BEATRIZ

experiencing this.” lives. With the earthquake, I controlled the is my home.” Cadena.ngo ©

22 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 FANNY SARFATI (55) MONICA UNIKEL-FASJA (55) Actor and theatre producer Director of the Justo Sierra Historic “My family is originally from Istanbul. Israeli prime minister, Golda Meir. We Synagogue at Nidje Israel They came to Mexico in the 1920s to a town toured with it to 14 countries. I produced “My father´s family came from just outside Mexico City. When I was a few another play based on the true story of Vinnitsa, now Ukraine, in the 1920s. years old my family moved to La Roma, a three women – Jewish, Arab and German My mother's family came from near prosperous Jewish area of Mexico City. My – who are caught up in a drama about Vilnius. My mom was religious but grandmother and mother cooked Turkish an organ donor. I also produced a play when she married she left religion MEXICO dishes, we children loved the . about ten people in a café in who behind. We grew up in a secular We continue Turkish traditions, such as are caught up in a bombing. Recently we family but learnt about Jewish keeping ‘lucky eye’ amulets in the house performed this play in Tlatelolco, a tough traditions and studied at a Zionist or on a baby’s cot. I belong to an Ashkenazi neighbourhood outside Mexico City. It was school. While my grandparents synagogue and am not Orthodox but a new experience for the audience to find were alive we celebrated the celebrate the festivals with family dinners. out about Jewish issues, but they enjoyed it. festivals but when they died that Twelve years ago, I performed and Theatre is the best way to communicate our stopped: Sunday meals were and directed a play about the life of the former concerns as a community.” still are the time for family. When I was a child we sometimes attended an Ashkenazi Orthodox synagogue and I went to Jewish Scouts. CARLOS METTA (27) I married an Orthodox man of Musician and sound designer Aleppo origin, so I have learned “I’m involved with a few bands, including to live with tradition. We respect Klezmerson, which is a mix of klezmer and each other's beliefs but we are son (Cuban music), mambo, jazz and rock. quite different. I go to synagogue I also run Freims, a venue and restaurant on the holidays, clean my home for that features emerging artists and I was the Passover, build a sukkah every year director of Blowie Shyne, a project which and have separate dishes for milk aimed to develop young Jewish musicians. and meat. But outside my home I’m Last year I helped organise the first retreat not kosher. for Latin American Jewish artists called For the last 24 years I have Asylum Arts. Participants were from all organised walking tours of Jewish areas of film, music, theatre, dance and Mexico City. I'm also in charge of art. This year I’m setting up PRIMARIO, a the cultural centre based at the retreat to help emerging Jewish artists. beautiful Nidje Israel synagogue. My great-grandparents came to Mexico I'm proud of overseeing this space from Damascus and Aleppo in the early (see p18). It is a place where people 20th century. I went to a Jewish school can overturn their prejudices. In and, like most young Jewish Mexicans, I Mexico, there is some antisemitism spent a year in Israel. I live in an Orthodox but it’s not overt. You can find community but I don’t live an Orthodox stereotypes, especially in small life. I am part of a generation that is towns. We also get the fallout creating a new way to be Jewish. Some of from the decisions made by the us are involved in international projects, Israeli government. But we live such as Moishe House. We are focusing without obstacles and have a good on how to define ourselves – not by going relationship with the government to synagogue, eating kosher or being and feel optimistic about that afraid of God – but by nurturing a sense of continuing with López Obrador.” belonging.” carlosmetta.com sinagogajustosierra.com n

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 23 PASSPORT MEXICO

On the trail of the kosher quesadillas The history of Mexico City’s Jews can be found in the dozens of kosher delis, stalls and restaurants dotted across the capital city. Alan Grabinsky follows his taste buds to uncover the story of this distinctive community

24 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 a Muertita—the Little Dead Woman— arriving from the Middle East established businesses to the emerging industrial zones sets up her quesadilla stall every the first synagogue in Mexico City, Monte at the urban periphery. L evening on a busy commercial Sinai, in 1918. Those few who have kept their thoroughfare in the hilly neighborhood From the 1920s to the end of World War businesses downtown now commute up of Bosques de Reforma on the western II, a steady influx of Jews came to Mexico to two hours each way to attend to the outskirts of Mexico City. She and her staff from countries such as Poland, Ukraine jewellery, textile, and hardware factories of eight drive 90 minutes across the largest and Germany, largely to escape the rising established by their fathers more than half metropolis in the western hemisphere to get tide of antisemitism. Most considered a century ago. If they spend the day there, here by 5.30pm. Then she sets up her tent, Mexico a stopping point on their way to the they have few options for a kosher lunch. tables, chairs and cooking station to prepare United States, but many ended up staying Tucked into a commercial building quesadillas (tortillas with fillings such as when the US capped immigrant quotas. on one of Mexico City’s busiest avenues, and ) with military efficiency. Turkish Jews, fleeing heavy minority Grill looks like a no-frills diner in La Muertita repeats this ritual every taxation by the Turkish government, and a suburban mall, its bright green walls evening of the week. Every evening, that Syrian Jews, seeking economic opportunity, dotted with mirrors, its chairs upholstered is, except Friday. La Muertita’s real name followed in the 1950s. Most recently, in black plastic. Save for the word ‘Kosher’ is Celia (she won’t tell me her surname) Mexico City has seen an influx of Latin written in tiny Hebrew lettering below and she isn’t Jewish, but 90 percent of American Jews escaping economic and the restaurant’s name, the only indication her customers in this wealthy suburban political crises in Argentina and Venezuela. of the place’s Jewish ownership is the enclave are, and Friday evening is Shabbat. There are schools and synagogues mezuzah on the front door. Like any good businessperson, Celia makes that cater to every variety of Jew, be they The menu is bizarrely eclectic, offering her clients’ habits her own. Sephardim who trace their lineage to the everything from tacos to sushi to , Since she first started selling 16th-century exiles from and the restaurant quesadillas 58 years ago, La Muertita has Spain, Ashkenazim from has a seal of approval followed Mexico City’s 50,000-strong Eastern Europe, or Jews “There are tacos from the Maguen David Jewish community in its migration across coming from Aleppo and of fajitas, tortas Community, the strictest the city, from Polanco, near the city centre, Damascus – in Jewish kosher regulation in to Tecamachalco just over the city line, Mexico these are two and enchiladas, Mexico. One of the into the neighbouring State of Mexico, and distinct communities all made without specialities is the Chile finally to the wooded suburbs of Interlomas despite their shared pork or cheese” Jalapeño Tempura, a twist MEXICO and Bosques de Reforma. In its drift west, origins in modern-day on Mexico’s national dish, the Jewish community has left behind a Syria. Chiles en Nogada, which is constellation of eateries scattered along As the community became wealthier, made by stuffing poblano chile with some an eight-mile swath of Mexico City’s vast it moved, like most upwardly mobile permutation of beef, pork, dried and fresh urban landscape, some now serving their Mexicans, to newly established middle- fruits, then smothering it in cream third and fourth generations of customers. class neighbourhoods such as Roma, and garnishing it with pomegranate seeds The first Jews in Mexico came to Condesa, and later Polanco. The and . the New World aboard the ships of the first two, now the centre of the city’s Rather than using meat, the Chile conquistadors at the time of the Spanish growing reputation as the hippest in the Jalapeño at Pita-Grill is stuffed with Inquisition. Even in Mexico, far from the hemisphere, used to be typically Jewish. , , beets and fish eggs. Crown, their faith was punishable by death There were Yiddish bookstores and Although the restaurant is certified kosher, (the Inquisition kept offices in the colony), coffee houses where Polish and German the walnut cream has been replaced by the so they created an underground network of women would sit to discuss the news in house specialty – eel sauce. But when I try support and prayer. Europe. Even today there are five active and call the restaurant later to clarify this, The best-known crypto-Jew of the time synagogues in the Roma and Condesa, no one answers my calls. was Luis de Carvajal, who was burned at frequented mostly on the high holy days Most customers here prefer less the stake in Mexico City in 1596 after being by Jews coming down from their mountain adventurous options. “They come here outed by a family friend. His journal — the suburbs. because we give them their traditional oldest Jewish document in the New World Despite making up a miniscule Arab-Jewish food, like kibbeh (meatballs) — was returned to Mexico in March 2017, 82 percentage of Mexico City’s 24 million and kofte,” said Pita Grill manager Joseph years after its mysterious disappearance. people, Jews have contributed immensely Levi, who is of Syrian descent. Leonard Milberg, a New York collector of to the city’s public life. Two of the most A block south, in a building that seems Judaica, recognised it at a New York auction famous chroniclers of Mexican history, on the verge of collapse, is another kosher house, bought it, and donated it to the Enrique Krauze and Friederich Katz, are restaurant called Shalom. With its red Mexican government. Jewish. For three decades the face of the chairs, surly waiters, and walls adorned Thirty years after gaining its media giant, Televisa, was the journalist only with the patterns left by chipped gray independence from Spain in 1810, Mexico , an Eastern European paint, it resembles a suburban Italian underwent important political reforms Jew born in La Merced; his brother, joint that’s seen better days. But the menu that brought new protections for religious Abraham Zabludovsky, designed the is thoroughly Mexican. There are tacos freedom, but it would take another 50 Central de Abastos, which replaced the of beef , Arab (a spicy, years for the Jewish community to make Merced as the city’s wholesale market. beef-based chorizo), and fajitas (grilled itself visible. Mexican Jews spent the early designed some of Mexico meat served on a tortilla), as well as tortas part of the 20th century in downtown City’s most important contemporary (sandwiches) and enchiladas (tortillas with tenements. Working as peddlers, clothing buildings and Boris Viskin helped define cheese, meat or vegetable fillings and chilli vendors, and tailors, they built their lives Mexican art in the 20th century. sauce), all made without pork or cheese. around La Merced, at the time Mexico In 1985, a massive earthquake levelled Like similar restaurants in the Centro (the City’s primary wholesale market and most the city centre. Many Jews moved to the capital’s historic district), Shalom serves important immigrant quarter. Those early outskirts. The city had been growing what’s known as 'comida corrida', a fixed- immigrants came to Mexico primarily exponentially for years, and many in price, three-course menu popular with the from France and the Ottoman Empire. Jews the community decided to take their Mexican working class. Most of Shalom’s

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 25 PASSPORT

customers are businessmen that work in the surrounding warehouses and factories. When I arrived on a recent afternoon, the cashier, Guillermo Torres, was taking orders for a delivery to Atzcapotzalco in the city’s industrial outskirts, an hour’s drive from the centre in peak traffic. He admits that his customer base has dwindled over the last few years. When he started working at Shalom eight years ago, there were only four kosher restaurants in the city. Now, he says, there are more than 15, but most are located far from the centre, in the Bosques and Interlomas to the west of the capital. As for Jewish businesses, their son, Charles, at the restaurant. Tacos with kosher salami at Klein’s; below: Mexico Guillermo recognises that the best strategy “I was born in the kitchen,” he said happily, City Jewish teenagers at a youth group in the 70s would be to follow them out of town. “The surveying the packed dining room from rent here is going up for the warehouses,” our table in the back. Young people sat on Back in the suburbs, Celia tells me he says. “Most of the businessmen are the yellow plastic chairs out front, smoking. how, as a 13-year-old, she originally moving out.” Inside, families sipped at milkshakes, started selling quesadillas in the city Mexico City’s upmarket neighbourhood and elegantly dressed older ladies chatted centre. When she first set up her stall, she of Polanco has changed significantly since eagerly, sharing the neighbourhood gossip. offered fillings common to quesadillas the 1950s, when the Jewish community first In the beginning, Charles told me, 90 in Mexico—cheese and chicharron (pork made it the core of secular and Orthodox percent of Klein’s customers were secular cracklings) alongside huitlacoches (truffles) life. Then a middle-class area, Polanco has Jews, mostly from Eastern European and squash blossoms. It wasn’t long before since been taken over by galleries, designer backgrounds, so there was never a need a local Jewish customer told her that she boutiques and high-end to go fully kosher. Instead, would be better off focusing on kosher restaurants. International “Mexico City’s Edward chose to emulate ingredients. Since then, Celia has served MEXICO culinary darlings Pujol and New York delis by serving four generations of Jewish families. “A Quintonil are both here; Jews have corned and roast beef client once said I was like a grandmother to so is the Museo Soumaya, developed an sandwiches and and his grandchildren,” she says. the giant silver molar that idiosyncratic alongside his wife’s mole La Muertita is not certified kosher by Carlos Slim, the richest man and milkshakes. As time the rabbinical authorities but over the in Latin America, built for culinary style” passed, the kitchen at Klein’s last 50 years, Celia has earned the trust his wife’s art collection. started developing Jewish- of the community, removing meat from Though many Jews have long since left Mexican fusion dishes like the salami her menu (to avoid mixing it with cheese, Polanco, there’s still a strong Orthodox torta (savoury pie) and salami chilaquiles strictly forbidden by the laws) and presence in the district. Bearded men (tortilla chips), which are among the most cooking exclusively with kosher . dressed in black suits walk hand in hand popular dishes with the Jewish clientele, La Muertita has also branched out into with their children on their way back from who make up around half of all customers catering events – Jewish and otherwise the many (religious schools) in the at the Polanco location (Klein’s also has an – ranging from bachelor parties to bat area. There are kosher stores on every other outpost in Bosques). mitzvahs. She has two other locations in block, including a kosher supermarket, and As the menu at Klein’s suggests, Mexico Mexico City’s Jewish suburbs, run by her five synagogues. City’s Jewish community may remain granddaughter and daughter-in-law. Four Polanco’s most famous avenue is insular, but its eating habits are decidedly of Celia’s six children work in the business. Masaryk, a recently remodelled strip dotted cosmopolitan. With origins in 15 countries, She’s done well enough over the years to with ad agencies, car dealerships and the capital city's Jews have developed an buy each of them a house. clothing chains. Among the glittering show idiosyncratic culinary style, with dishes like On a chilly Tuesday night, some 15 windows for Louis Vuitton, Montblanc, and gefilte fish a la Veracruzana, a spin-off of customers gather around La Muertita’s Armani, there remains one important relic the popular Mexican fish dish with stall, some standing, others huddled of the neighbourhood’s past life: Klein’s. and tomato sauce. A recent cookbook, around her cooktop on low plastic stools. In 1962 Edward Klein, an American Jew written and printed by Fanny Maya, a As newcomers arrive, customers greet whose family had settled in Mexico City Syrian-Mexican Jew, lists 303 recipes, them warmly; many are old acquaintances in the previous decades, decided to quit some of them uniquely Mexican-Jewish who have been coming to Celia for 20 his family’s textile business and establish inventions. years. To the untrained eye, there’s an old-fashioned diner serving no difference between La Muertita’s , milkshakes, and hot clientele and those patronising dogs. It didn’t take long for the dishes nearby stands. They don’t wear prepared by Edward’s gentile wife, Orthodox black hats or kippahs; the Andrea, to make their way onto the women wear jeans or trouser suits, menu. Andrea came from Puebla and like anyone else. There are other her specialities included chilaquiles, ways to make a community. n tacos, chicken consomé, and the celebrated mole of her native city. Alan Grabinsky is a writer based in

On a recent Friday morning, I met Mexico City. CENTER OF THE DOCUMENTATION COURTESY

26 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 MORE MEXICAN JEWISH CINEMA Subjects such as death, shivahs and suicide get a colourful Latin American twist in the films from Jewish Mexican directors. Julia From Damascus to Mexico City Wagner picks five of the best LIKE A BRIDE (NOVIA QUE A new film focuses on Mexico City’s Syrian Jewish community. TE VEA) dir. Guita Schyfter, 1994 Costa Rica-born Schyfter directs this Julia Wagner speaks to its director Nejemye Tenenbaum adaptation of Rosa Nissan’s novel about two Mexican Jewish girls coming hat do we gain from living in a regularly have Jewish content, including of age in Mexico during the 1960s. A community? This is the question a project for the Holocaust Museum in rich blend of Hebrew, Yiddish, Ladino, W at the heart of The Third Place Mexico City. and Spanish brings their story to life. (El Tercer Espacio), a new documentary In The Third Place, archive footage by Nejemye Tenenbaum, focusing on the shows Syria and Mexico in the early 20th A KISS TO THIS LAND tight-knit Monte Sinaí Jewish community century. Many Jews emigrated from (UN BESO A ESTA TIERRA) in Mexico City. Syria in the 1910s and 20s, often arriving dir. Daniel Goldberg Lerner, 1995 MEXICO The Third Place blends archive footage penniless and working as garment traders. A powerful and fascinating and interviews with community members, Another wave of immigration came in documentary using oral history and including rags-to-riches tales and people the late 1940s, as antisemitism increased archive footage to tell the stories of who struggle to get by. While most of the in Syria and other countries in the region. Jewish immigrants to Mexico in the interviewees express warmth about their Businessman Moshe Assa recalls his poor early 20th century (pictured above). community, Tenenbaum teases out the childhood in Damascus, his stint in the complexities of living in a self-sufficient Israeli army, and integration into Mexican MY MEXICAN SHIVAH yet insular society. “Assimilation is Jewish life after his arrival in 1958: “I didn’t (MORIRSE ESTÁ EN HEBREO) pretty low and [the role of] institutions imagine [I would have] one percent of what dir. Alejandro Springall, 2007 is very high. Perhaps it is one of the most this blessed country has given me,” he says. In this comedy, the seven days of institutionalised Jewish communities Today, Monte Sinaí is made up of around Moishe Tartakovsky’s shivah celebrate in the world,” says Tenenbaum. He adds 2,600 families and 11,500 members. his life in Mexico City. The soundtrack that rabbis are “very influential in the Meanwhile, 12-year-old Geny Salame boasts mariachi and klezmer music, community’s political is approaching and Jewish rituals around death are and day-to-day “It is one of the most her batmitzvah – a depicted with affection and respect. decisions. Families are institutionalised communal event very tight and large – that she will share NORA’S WILL some have up to 20-30 Jewish communities with friends from the (CINCO DÍAS SIN NORA), first cousins. And they in the world” Monte Sinai Hebrew dir. Mariana Chenillo, 2008 respect the elderly." School. Geny defines An award-winning tragicomedy The film’s name alludes to the term herself as being the least materialistic girl revolving around the events that ‘third place’, a phrase coined by American among her peers – despite describing her unfold after the meticulously planned sociologist Ray Oldenburg, who suggested goal of having a huge house with servants. suicide of a middle-aged woman, that the ‘first place’ for societies is home Through the stories of Geny and a young Nora, on the eve of Passover. But she and family; second is the place of work or man called Samy ‘Panes’ Atri, who is has neglected to hide all the traces study; and the third is where people gather, looking for a job, we see the aspirations and of her secrets, leading to unintended the place that enriches human lives. fears, as well as limited horizons, of the consequences that threaten to Tenenbaum grew up in the Ashkenazi younger generation. Their stories highlight undermine her Seder night plan. community in Mexico City and attended a materialism which seems to dominate the Tarbut Hebrew School, the only mixed parts of Monte Sinaí. Although, as Moshe HEAVEN IN AUSCHWITZ (Ashkenazi and Sephardi) Jewish school Assa explains, there are new pressures on (PARAÍSO EN AUSCHWITZ), in the capital. He studied filmmaking in young people: Mexico was a closed market dir. Aáron Cohen, 2016 Mexico, Los Angeles and New York, before but now it has to compete with the world. A documentary scripted by Mexican directing projects for Israeli television. He Despite this, The Third Place shows that Jewish writer Sabina Berman that returned to Mexico and has worked on living in a community can still provide an tells the story of 13 Czech Holocaust over 100 documentaries. While most of his irreplaceable sense of belonging. n survivors. As children in Terezin and Jewish-Mexican filmmaker peers, such as later in Auschwitz, they met youth cinematographer and El Tercer Espacio, dir by Nejemye Tenenbaum, leader Fredy Hirsh, who devoted director Michel Franco, do not make films 2017. For screenings see: nejemyetenenbaum.com. himself to making the lives of children with Jewish themes, Tenenbaum’s films Dr Julia Wagner is a writer and lecturer. in these horrific places more bearable.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 27 PASSPORT CHILANGOS ARE SPEAKING YIDDISH AGAIN Yiddish once played a significant part in Mexican Jewish culture. Today interest in the language is on the rise again, says Arturo Kerbel exico City (or Chilangolandia for MYiddish speakers; a Chilango is someone who lives there) has a long Yiddish history. The Mexican Ashkenazi community used Yiddish as the language of instruction in many of its schools (Le Yiddishe) but it was also an intrinsic part of the Ladino for a new generation community’s cultural activities. Consequently, the Mexican Myriam Moscona explains why Ladino is such an important part of Jewish community has one of the her novel Tela de Sevoya; below we feature an excerpt from the book biggest concentrations of Yiddish speakers in the world. Jews y family is from Bulgaria mozotras. No kero molestar. Thank from all denominations spoke and Turkey. I was the first you so much for speaking with us. the language, and Hebrew and “M to be born in Mexico but I I don’t want to bother you, I say Yiddish were taught alongside am the black sheep of the Mexican Jewish candidly. each other. community!" laughs the writer Myriam —Kuantas noches keresh kedarvos? The Ashkenazi community Moscona. Her novel, Tela de Sevoya ( How many nights would you like to managed much of their cloth), was written in Spanish with some stay? institutional and cultural affairs

MEXICO Ladino (Judaeo-Spanish) and won Mexico's — Sólo una. Just one. in Yiddish from the 1920s up to prestigous Xavier Villaurrutia Prize in 2012. —Bien. Ama mozos no lo fazemos por the turn of the 21st century. There "My Jewish identity is strong but I'm tomar parás. Fine. But we won’t do it was a host of Yiddish literature, not very involved in the community," to take your parás, your money. such as Shtot fun Palatzn (City she says. "My grandparents and parents My friend Heny—present for all of Palaces) by Isaac Berliner spoke Ladino but in my generation it was that occurred on this long trip through with drawings by Frida Kahlo’s a dying language. I’m trying to capture a Bulgaria—is with me. I mention to her that husband Diego Rivera, and living memory of the language." Moscona they are willing to receive us, and on top there were a number of Yiddish returned to Bulgaria to research her novel. of that, without our paying any money; newspapers, such as Der Veg (The "It was one of the most important things they don’t even want to hear any mention Way), Di Shtime (The Voice) and I have done in my life," she says. In this of parás. It seems unbelievable to me. the left-wing Foroys (Forward). excerpt from Tela de Sevoya, the narrator Perhaps the price of their favour will be to As the use of Yiddish travels to Plovdiv, Bulgaria, and is given the force us to pray before each step we take. decreased from the 1950s, the contact for a rabbi who might be able to To say a blessing when you get up, when Yiddish schools took on the help her with accommodation: you eat, when you drink, when you wash challenge of conserving it. your hands, when you wake up, when However, in the last 15 years TELA DE SEVOYA : you are going to sleep. Perhaps I should Yiddish instruction has even FROM THE TRAVEL DIARY explain to them that we are not religious, disappeared from these schools’ The rabbi? What kind of rabbi? Orthodox— that we are impure, that we mix dairy and curricula. Today two Yiddish one of those rabbis who don’t touch women, meat, that we go to parties on Saturdays, schools remain in Mexico City. who wear a hat and grow their peyot in that we adore our Gentile friends, that we But a renewed interest in the curls? I’ve never liked the peyot or those also venerate our brown Virgin of Tepeyac, language is growing. The Yidishe men, the majority of whom are fanatics. that we would be willing to march in a gay Shtub Mx (Yiddish House) was They’re “penguins” in black-and-white pride protest, but that we are Jews and we set up in 2013 to bring together outfits. I don’t want to call him, though I love that status. Rivka gives me directions. graduates from Yiddish schools know very well I don’t have many options. An apartment on the boulevard facing the and others with an interest in the —Buenos diyas. Kon ken avlo? Good Maritsa River. language. There have also been morning. With whom am I speaking? When we turn onto their street, we see seminars by international Yiddish —Yo so Rivka, la mujer del rabino Samuel. a series of modest buildings, their paint experts, events such as Idisher I am Rivka, Rabbi Samuel’s wife. eroded. We go up to the second floor and Idol (a Yiddish song contest), and (And this Rivka, will she wear a wig knock on the door. It is Friday. visits from the Warsaw Yiddish like the religious women who only expose —Seash bienvenidas. May you be Theatre and The Klezmatics. n their hair to their husbands? Will she welcome—the woman says, extending walk clumsily with swollen insteps like the her hand. n Arturo Kerbel is a trainee majority of religious women, whose hips psychotherapist at King’s College appear to weigh them down?) Tela de sevoya by Miriam Moscona, trans Antena, London and UCL. He grew up in BEATRIZ SOKOL BEATRIZ

—Merci munchas por avlar kon Random House Mondadori, 2012. Mexico City and teaches Yiddish. ©

28 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 ©CARLOS TISCHLER/GETTY C contrasts with the tendency of women in contrasts withthe tendencyofwomenin that earnest feminism andanausterelook Shereinforcesthiswithan politics. of corruptionthatplaguesMexican that sheisuntaintedbythequagmire her academicprofiletosendthe message andclimatechange. on airpollution from Berkeley, andcarvingacareerfocused inenvironmentalengineering doctorate obtaininga She studiedphysicsbefore identity asascientistorwoman. shepreferstoemphasiseher If shedoes of Mexico City, herself. hardlytalksabout first woman,andJew, mayor tobecome the heritage. The56-year-old,whowillbe our cultureinblood”. without religion,but“obviously wecarry her Mexican-bornparentshadraised her fled BulgariainWorld War II.Shesaid century andhermaternalgrandparents ofthelast from Lithuaniaatthebeginning paternal grandparents cametoMexico mysurnames.”already knowboth women lastJune, obviously, “because, you City’s mayor toldameetingofJewish electedMexico was withinweeksofbeing comment onsomething,” thewomanwho

Mexico’s new president andthecountry’s Jews, says JoTuckman Mayor ClaudiaSheinbaumPardo couldbeacruciallinkbetween City’s new mayor in ourblood:Mexico We ourculture carry As a politician Sheinbaum stresses Sheinbaumstresses As apolitician It wasarare referencetoherJewish Sheinbaum toldthegroupthather signalling intimacy. “Iwouldliketo asif forward onthepodium laudia SheinbaumPardo leaned Mandela.” Martin Luther King,toSalvadorAllende, to said. “He isclosesttothegreatpacifists: for Mexico,”moral referencepoint she gave inearly2018.“Andrés Manuelisa Obrador wasclearinaninterviewshe migrant rights. nationalist andhasalsopromisedtodefend Obrador defineshimselfasa crime. López getting suckedinto vulnerable to people scholarships foryoung the moneysaved into corruption” andchannel promised to“eliminate injustices. His2018electioncampaign his commitmenttotacklingMexico’s deep base overyearsbytirelesslyunderlining presidency byalandslideonthesameday. Obrador, theleftistwhowoncountry’s withAndrésManuelLópez long association inher America. Thatvictorywasrooted inLatin most complexmetropolises election togovernoneofthelargestand it wouldneverhave wonhertheJuly influential sectorwithinMexico City, flamboyancy. dressingorbohemian feminised power Mexican tofavour politics eitherhyper- Sheinbaum never considered a political Sheinbaum never consideredapolitical Sheinbaum’s admiration for López Obrador hasbuiltalargesupport López toan While thisprofileappeals “Is Sheinbaum “Is Sheinbaum election in2024?” thinking ofthe focused onthecity.”focused thisnow. talkingabout we shouldbe Iam recently toldElFinanciero. “Idon’t think elections in2024?“Not fornow,” she thenextpresidential thinking about presidential ambitions.IsSheinbaum withfuture almost automaticallyassociated controversy faded. tweets ofhisadviser. He didso,and the insistedhecurbtheaggressive reportedly Sheinbaum the UK.Onthatoccasion Partyto theissuesfacingLabour in masquerading asanti-Zionism,similar antisemitism, his partyin2012about okay, draws alineunderit,and moveson. issues astatementpromisingthingswillbe they turnitintoabigenoughproblem,he handles conflictsamonghisfollowers.If from allreligionsand“freethinkers”. that hismovementisinclusiveofpeople rights alreadyestablished,andaffirmed He bypromisingnottorollback responded circle tostageaprotestagainstthealliance. same-sex marriage. rightsand leaders whoabhorabortion inevangelicalchurches and with roots party the 2018electionwithatinypolitical to ignorewhenheformedanalliancefor increasingly difficult conservatism became Sheinbaum. Hisquietbutobvioussocial it easyforMexico Cityprogressiveslike he wasmayor. capital tothepaththathehadtraced when largely aroundthepledgetoreturn the capital’s mayor, sheran hercampaign finally securehimvictorythisyear. Regeneration (MORENA) –thatwould party–theMovementpolitical ofNational 2012. Shewasthereagainashebuiltanew his failedattempttowinthepresidencyin wilderness yearsthatfollowedaswell and accompaniedhimthroughoutthe his firstshotatthepresidencyin2006 her intooneofhismosttrustedassociates. Obrador gave López hertooverseeturned Sheinbaum’s dedicationtotheprojects inthe80s.Fromstudent politics thenon leaderwhomshehadmetthrough political the timeshewasmarriedtoamiddle-level of Mexico 2000and2005.At Citybetween environment secretarywhenhewasmayor Obrador madeherhis career untilLópez University Press, 2012). author ofMexico: DemocracyInterrupted(Yale Jo Tuckman isajournalistbasedinMexicoand OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 29 That was how he handled a row within That washowhehandledarowwithin It wastypicaloftheway Obrador Lopez Obrador’sThis ledsomeofLópez inner Not Obrador always thatLópez makes When heassuredherthecandidacyfor during She washisspokesperson given that the position is is given thattheposition is particularlyrelevant That question shadow? Obrador’sfrom López Sheinbaum emerge

n Can Mayor MEXICO SAN DIEGO Tijuana

Monterrey

Guadalajara San Miguel Allende

Venta Prieta MEXICO MEXICO CITY

Secret villages, scuba diving and religious spats: life outside the capital Of the 50,000 Jews in Mexico, most are based in Mexico City. But there are groups – some in remote or desert locations – scattered elsewhere. Alan Grabinksy meets the inhabitants of these small communities

GUADALAJARA The community is made up of about that has split the community in two. Now, Guadalajara is sometimes looked down on 170 families, who are mostly Ashkenazi, a group of 60 families no longer attend the by those in Mexico City as a conservative although there are also some Sephardi community centre and have created a new bastion. The city is based in the state of members. It was established in 1925, when organisation called Comunidad Hebráica, Jalisco, where mariachi music, sombreros land was bought for a Jewish cemetery. The which follows more traditional practices. and charreadas (rodeos) come from. But community had been united under a it is also Mexico’s second largest city, a Conservative rabbi and it meets at the SAN MIGUEL ALLENDE cultural powerhouse and home to the Jewish Community Centre, which hosts a This bohemian town in a sunny valley second biggest Jewish community in the synagogue, sports centre and school. in the state of is home to country. Every year it holds the largest book But according to a piece on the news- more than 10,000 American expatriates. fair in the Spanish-speaking world – in site Enlace Judio, in the past two decades Guanajuato was a mecca for silver- and 2013 Israel was a participant. there has been a shift towards Orthodoxy gold-mining in colonial times and is one of

30 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 said Charles Soberman, one of the VENTA PRIETA founders of the town’s Jewish Cultural and The farming village of Venta Prieta lies in a Community Centre, “They don’t like that.” deserted valley about two hour’s drive from Mexico City. It has become something of MONTERREY an urban folk tale – and an uncomfortable Surrounded by mountains, the sprawling presence – for Mexico’s Ashkenazi and and arid Monterrey is Mexico’s most Sephardi communities. important industrial city and many The village has a synagogue, a mikveh transnational companies choose to and a Jewish cemetery: around 270 of its establish their headquarters there thanks inhabitants claim to be descendants of to its proximity to the US. The Jewish crypto-Jews, those who hid their Judaism connection to Monterrey dates back to over the centuries to escape persecution. colonial times. Luis de Carvajal y de la Their rituals have been diluted, or mixed Cueva, the first Spanish governor of Nuevo with Catholic and indigenous traditions Leon – the state where Monterrey is located over the years, such as roasting a whole – came from a family of ‘new Christians’ lamb to celebrate Passover, or interweaving who had converted to Christianity to the cross and Star of David in decoration. escape persecution. Although he was a Vento Prieta’s Jews are part of a growing devout Catholic, his sister and nephew phenomenon across the Gulf of Mexico, continued to practise Jewish traditions. and in particular in the state of Veracruz, In 1590 the Mexican where people are tracing Inquisition seized the their roots to a Jewish past. family. Caravajal was “Jewish rituals During his exile in accused of ‘Judaising’ and have been mixed Mexico City in the 1940s, on 8 December 1596, he with Catholic the Czech reporter Erwin and his family died at the Egon Kish wrote about the stake in Mexico City. and indigenous inhabitants of Venta Prieta, Consequently, it wasn’t comparing their sense of Cozumel traditions” MEXICO until the end of the 19th isolation with his feeling century that Jews formally established of loss, having fled from Nazi-occupied themselves in Monterrey. The community Europe. In the 1960s, Samuel Lerer, an grew in the 20s and 30s, as Jewish American rabbi based in Mexico City, went immigrants passed through Mexico to get to the village and converted the community into the States, stopping – and staying – at so it could be embraced by the wider Jewish Monterrey. They established themselves in world. But the established Mexican Jewish the Vista Hermosa neighbourhood and set community remains sceptical, saying that up a community centre there in the 1940s. many in Venta Prieta are descended from Today there are only 115 Jewish families indigenous Indians who converted to in Monterrey as many have left – mostly Judaism. The community has converted for San Diego or Mexico City – to escape again through Orthodox rites. But the a surge of drug-related violence. The city battle continues for them to be accepted. still has some legacy of Jewish customs in dishes such as cabrito (roast goat meat) COZUMEL and sweet semita pastries, and in the The Orthodox organisation Chabad has 11 prevalence of Sephardi names, such as houses, known as Chabad for Travelers, Garza. that extend from southern Mexico to Colombia. The first Chabad for Travelers the most prosperous regions in Mexico.In TIJUANA/SAN DIEGO was established in 2009 on Cozumel, recent years, San Miguel Allende's colonial Tijuana has recently become a symbol for an ancient Mayan Island off the coast streets, chic galleries and restaurants have the evolving tensions between Mexico of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula. Cozumel turned the town into a wedding mecca for and the United States. Chaotic and has a population of 80,000 and is a scuba- wealthy Mexico City inhabitants, including exciting, the city is often the last stop for diving magnet as well as a favourite stop on many Jews. migrants seeking to cross into the States the backpacker circuit for young Israelis. The town hosts a small Jewish and the streets are full of a mix of South Jews arrived on Cozumel 35 years ago community, called CHEMSA, made up of Americans, Mexicans and even Africans. in search of a natural paradise. Today the 100 members. Historically, the community Although there has been a recent surge in community is made up of 150 people, comprised Canadian or American Jews, crime, Tijuana has one of Mexico's most including retired Americans, some Turks but recently there has been an influx of interesting cultural scenes, with edgy and a few Mexicans. It has four kosher wealthy Mexican Jews who have bought artists promoting a trans-Latin identity. restaurants, a mikveh and a Jewish school. homes in the area. The Jewish community in Tijuana is One initiative involves the rabbi delivering The services are led by members of the made up of 80 families and was established monthly lectures on redemption in the congregation and the community caters to in the 1930s. Many of them are business local jail. Jews of all denominations, and focuses on owners – one of Mexico’s most iconic “When people go on vacation, they live cultural and secular events. But this lack of department stores, Dorian’s, is based here in a different state of mind. They want Orthodoxy has created conflict within the – and others are involved in agriculture, to explore new ideas and traditions. In Comité Central, the umbrella organisation recently introducing Israeli irrigation Chabad everyone comes as a guest and for the Mexican Jewish community: “We techniques to the local vineyards. Many leaves as family,” says Rabbi Dudi Caplin, run into tensions with it because of the Mexican Jewish families over the border in founder and chief rabbi of Chabad for

THOMAS FOURNIER converts we accept into our community,” San Diego originally came from Tijuana. Travelers. >ISIDORO HAMUI HANONO n

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 31 FILM Inside the Mossad

The Museum 100 Faces From spies to snappy suits: documentaries shine at UKJFF The UK Jewish Film Festival is back! Amid an impressive line-up of films from all over the world, FILM documentaries feature strongly this year. Judi Herman and Danielle Goldstein pick their top of the docs

THE MUSEUM (2017) 100 FACES (2018) JOHN SIMONS: A MODERNIST (2018) Director: Ran Tal Director: Benjamin Till Director: Lee Cogswell Filmed over 18 months, this fly-on-the-wall 100 Faces is not so much a film as a sun- In this nostalgic look back at men’s fashion documentary takes us on a behind-the- hued and affectionate 13-minute ad for in 1960s and 70s London, filmmakers scenes tour through Jerusalem’s Israel being Jewish. In this slick but endearingly Lee Cogswell and Jason Jules present Museum, following everyone from its quirky offering, the composer and director menswear pioneer John Simons in a warm, curators and visitors to the in-house rabbi Benjamin Till explores what it means to be sepia-toned light. Lovely old footage of and the guy who polishes the floor. Israeli Jewish in the UK today. the capital is dropped in alongside black- director Ran Tal never lingers too long Till set out to find 100 British Jewish and-white photos from the time. Talking on any one person, so that you might not people who had each been born in a heads include former customers, critics even find out their job title, but you will different year between 1918 and 2017. The and style icons, such as the Modfather discover, for instance, that they sought first shot belongs to a one-year-old in himself, Paul Weller, and designer Sir Paul refuge in Israel after fleeing persecution in , the last to a 100-year-old woman Smith. The warmth with which they speak Baku, Azerbaijan. Or you’ll hear snippets who says she doesn’t know of “any other of this young Jewish kid from Dalston, East of debates about how it is only the Jews way” to be. In between we see Jews who are London, working his way up from a pop-up who seem to despise the Roman emperor black, mixed-race, converts, Orthodox, shop in the foyer of a Hackney garment Hadrian; the merits of overseeing the atheists and everything in between – factory in 1962 to a Marylebone mainstay 20th-century section versus the Judaica alongside a sprinkling of celebrities. today, is testament to the vision of Simons. department; and how best to dry a merkin Kindertransportees and Battle of Cable We learn he’s not simply a shop owner but a on a mannequin. Street veterans rub shoulders with rabbis curator, a designer and a pioneer. The has been building and hippies. Some of the words are spoken; Drawing from the tailoring experience its reputation and collections since its some are sung, and the piece is threaded of his family – and four very dapper uncles founding in 1965. In almost 500,000 together by an original soundtrack from – Simons brought Ivy League America to objects it represents world culture, from the Israel Camerata orchestra. London’s working class. He paved the way life in Israel to Jewish art and biblical So what is being Jewish? It’s eating for the tailored, classic image of all those archaeology. Accompanied by a powerful sweets without gelatine; it’s making Mods and Rude Boys – or “Jack the lads”, backing track of strings and piano, Tal sure people don’t see you driving on as he dubs them – who influenced entire manages to artfully present a snapshot of Shabbat; and “dancing on the coffee table cultural scenes. Jules is keen to stress that the works and people who breathe life into of existence”. There’s much humour Simons “created a language” for men’s the place. >DANIELLE GOLDSTEIN and warmth here and any moments clothing, such as the infamous Harrington of sentimentality are balanced by the jacket. He named his stock after the “Simons brought Ivy poignant comments delivered by the character of Rodney Harrington (played older participants: their beautifully shot, by Ryan O’Neal) from 60s TV show Peyton League America to intensely lined faces perhaps speak as Place and the name has stuck to this day. London’s working class” much as their words. >REBECCA TAYLOR >DG

32 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 The Waldheim Waltz

John Simons: A Modernist Unsettling

UNSETTLING (2018) THE WALDHEIM WALTZ (2018) INSIDE THE MOSSAD (2018) Director: Iris Zaki Director: Ruth Beckermann Director: Duki Dror Tekoa is a Jewish settlement of almost Ruth Beckermann’s documentary about Duki Dror’s documentary examines what 4,000 souls that was established in the former Austrian president Kurt Waldheim, motivates the men and women who work mid-1970s close to the Palestinian village veers curiously close to our current as spies for Israel – and it makes sobering FILM of Tuqu’, between Hebron and Jerusalem. political climate. The same nonsense viewing. Unsurprisingly, it’s not the In 2016 filmmaker Iris Zaki set up her Trump now spouts about fake news was glamour (think le Carré not Fleming), cameras at the settlement’s café table for also used by Waldheim to defend himself though Mossad’s silver fox deputy head, a month, inviting Tekoa’s largely youthful in the 1980s during his crusade to become Ram Ben Barak, who tops and tails the film inhabitants to engage with her over a Austrian president. As evidence mounted with his enigmatic smile and dry tones, drink. against him, proving that he was involved makes a compelling poster boy. As you Makeshift structures proclaim Tekoa’s in the deportation of thousands of Greek might expect, he gives little away. hippie vibe; the voiceovers of disgruntled Jews from Salonika during the Holocaust, Other, older operatives, now retired, residents proclaim their suspicions of amongst other atrocities, his defences the opportunity to talk more the city leftie preparing to film them. flailed. At one point in this prescient film, candidly. One such spy is nonagenarian Happily, Zaki’s old friend, Metanya, who he is recorded as saying that he was “maybe Rafi Eitan, who led the 1960s operation to lives in Tekoa, gives the lie to the idea that signed up to the Nazi party by capture Adolf Eichmann and all settlers are right-wing. The viewer gets friends or family”, but he can’t “Mossad’s bring him to trial in Israel. to meet a cross-section of inhabitants, remember. When Dror enables his and encounters range from the tense Using a series of clips shot silver fox, interviewees to explore moral to the revelatory. She’s a good listener, by the director at the time, Ram Ben dilemmas, his film really admitting straight away that these settlers as well as archive footage Barak, is a comes into its own. Israel has do not suffer from the self-critical political of interviews, news reports always been embattled, but discomfort of her own Tel Aviv set. But she and committee meetings, compelling boundaries are crossed in the dubs as apartheid the system that separates Beckermann forms a clear poster boy” interests of safeguarding the them from their Arab neighbours. picture of how a man with state. A Bedouin shepherd This last assertion occurs in her uneasy questionable ethics miraculously managed recruited as a double agent warns his exchange with a smiling young woman to serve first as secretary general for the handler about an incursion across the who believes the persecution of European United Nations (from 1972 to 1981) and Lebanon-Israel border in which he is Jews justifies her belief in the nationalism then be elected president of Austria for forced to take part. His handler fails to save that denies Palestinian rights to coexist. six years. What is, perhaps, most shocking him from the ensuing danger and the agent The real eye-opener is the young mother is that Waldheim was elected despite pays with his life. In another story, a traitor Michal. With a baby on her lap and her having been exposed as lying about his is thrown from a plane. hair modestly covered, she reveals that past. The film reveals the power – and There are revelatory insider accounts: her near-fatal stabbing in a Hebron shop slipperiness – of political rhetoric, but it of the unsuccessful attempt to warn of the by a 16-year-old Arab boy actually brought also suggests that Austria has still not come Yom Kippur war in 1973; and the successful her closer to her Arab neighbours. These to terms with its part in World War II. As US curbing of Benjamin Netanyahu’s neighbours came to apologise and pray Congresswoman Patricia Schroeder states ambitions to attack ’s nuclear facilities. with her, kneeling on her carpet. She wants in one clip, the defence against criminality Attempts at visuals, such as the toy soldiers the settlers to put all their energy into cannot be ‘Waldheimers Disease’. “Anybody moved on a tabletop map, cannot match meeting them, “to soften all these walls”. who had any part in it [the Holocaust] the simple power of talking heads. >JH n Zaki hopes she has “shown what’s under cannot say that they forgot and therefore the stereotypes”. In a film that moves at its start over,” says Schroeder. No doubt this The UK Jewish Film Festival runs 8-22 November own leisurely pace, she has indeed. contemplative, sincere documentary will at venues across the UK. See ukjewishfilm.org and >JUDI HERMAN stand as testament to that. >DG What’s Happening from p55.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 33 THEATRE

To Canada with love Old Stock: A Refugee Love Story follows two immigrants as they arrive in Canada in the early 20th century. Judi Herman asks husband-and-wife team Hannah Moscovitch and Christian Barry why the show has such resonance with contemporary audiences

t’s the story of them falling in love above, from where he comments on the found their records and the boat they came in Canada and with Canada,” action and gleefully interacts with the on and the day they came in; and we know THEATRE “Isays Canadian writer Hannah audience. they stood where we were standing when Moscovitch. She is talking about her Christian outlines the thinking we visited. It doesn’t sound dramatic when great-grandparents, Chaim and Chaya, behind this striking image. “We wanted you say it, but it was definitely dramatic who fled pogroms in Romania in 1908 to the musicians to have an active role in to have a bureaucrat pulling out all this arrive in Halifax, Nova Scotia, the entry the storytelling. We imagined them as stuff about your great-grandparents. It had port to Canada. Their tale is the inspiration a travelling band of troubadours who never occurred to me before but this was for Old Stock: A Refugee Love Story, a come into town to entertain, and we gave the moment that they were safe. Before genre-defying show from Halifax-based it a contemporary twist. The shipping that they were in peril. It was a question of 2b Theatre Company. Old Stock is part container came out of that. Halifax is a life or death,” she says. theatre, part gig and wholly entertaining, port city, with periodic stowaway stories. “Hannah had this amazing realisation”, informative and intensely moving. “They The container looks like a railway cart too, continues Christian, “that had they not have to fall in love despite all the trauma which has dark resonances for Jews. That taken that risk, that journey across the that they carry with them from the old container became our cart, to roll into town ocean, Elijah wouldn’t be there with her in world – and despite loving Romania.” and pack up and ship to the next town.” the pushchair. She came home and told me Hannah has plays (including East of How did the idea for and I said, ‘We’ve got our Berlin and This is War) and opera librettos the show come about? “Chaya and Chaim story!’ This is the refugee to her credit, and wrote the show with her “Photos of Alan Kurdi, the story that’s very close to husband, the theatre director Christian Syrian refugee toddler meet for the first home.” Barry, and charismatic Canadian singer/ who was washed up on time in a medical “The alternative songwriter Ben Caplan. Ben’s music for a Turkish beach in 2015, history of my family the show is richly varied in style: lovers were circulating around inspection line at was death – as with of klezmer, niggunim (Jewish songs, the world,” says Christian. Pier 21” Alan Kurdi,” concludes usually hummed without words, or with “He had a Canadian Hannah. “It was repetitive sounds like ‘bim bam’) and even aunt who had been expecting to sponsor impossible for me, knowing my family rap won’t be disappointed. “Ben also plays him. So Ben and I decided we wanted to came in through Pier 21 fleeing pogroms, the Wanderer, a sort of MC character in make something dealing with the refugee not to see a parallel. So all of that came the style of Cabaret. He’s mischievous, crisis. And not wanting to appropriate a together to make Old Stock.” raunchy, a hipster rabbi and storyteller story that was not ours we searched for In one of the first scenes in the play, who guides you through the story of Chaya something that might give us access to that Chaya Jankowitch and Chaim Moscovitch and Chaim,” says Hannah. story. Fast forward a year, and Hannah took meet for the first time in a medical The show begins with the set, which our baby son Elijah to a museum in Halifax inspection line at Pier 21. It has the is designed as a shipping container, called Pier 21.” authenticity of family history but Hannah splitting open to reveal four multi-talented “Pier 21 is a little bit like Ellis Island,” puts me right. “There is only so much I musicians. The violin player, Mary Fay explains Hannah. “Anyone who came know. I have some basic facts and dates Coady, also plays Chaya, and Dani Oore, into Canada by boat would have come so I’ve used everything I have and know, who plays woodwind, is Chaim. The through Halifax and Pier 21, as my great including interviews with elderly family Wanderer leaps out to his vantage point grandparents did in 1908. At Pier 21 we members. After that, all the dialogue is

34 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 ©STOO METZ PHOTOGRAPHY; COURTESY OF THE CANADIAN MUSEUM OF IMMIGRATION AT PIER 21 got animmigrant orrefugeestory. This refugees, ifyou’re notindigenous; you’ve Canada isacountryofimmigrants and words. Whatdidhemeanby‘old stock’? others. “Itstruckmeasastrange choiceof Canadiansthan legitimate claimtobe were someCanadianswhohad amore ‘old Canadians’ stock toimplythatthere health careforrefugees,heusedtheterm toaquestionabout debate. Responding ina2015election Minister StephenHarper phrase usedbytheformerCanadian Prime research toputtogetherthescript.” at Pier21andanecdotesfromrelatives wefound of historicaldetailsfrompapers ofRomania.Wepogroms hadthismixture fleeingthe thetrauma ofpeople talk about and didn’t needtosay much.Chaimdidn’t who’dpeople throughalottogether been word. Theauntpaintedalovingpictureof Railway trains, have acuppaand notsay a onCanadian working intheengineroom he wouldcomehomeexhaustedfrom warm kissevolvedfromthestoryofhow ‘Hard day atwork?’andtheyhave anice when ChaimcomeshomeandChanaasks: anecdotes,” scene says Christian.“The Chaim andChana,gave usbeautiful me photographs.” I’d familymembers Stock, nevermetsent ofcreatingOld got lost.Overtheprocess Romania, notthelanguageorhistory, itall wantedtoremember at thetime,nobody inRomania thatwerehappening atrocities like.Because ofthe and Chanalooked photographs; Ididn’t knowwhatChaim Ihadno fiction andsomeoftheeventstoo.

The Old Stock of the title refers to a The Old ofthetitlereferstoa Stock “Hannah’s great-aunt,who knew they understandthesignificanceofthat.” cry whentheyseetheshow, it’s because generations theyhave inCanada.Ifpeople thewholefamilytreeandhowmany about who madeittoCanada,I’mabletellyou Hannah’s sonin2018.“From thesepeople the audiencerightuptobirthof Chaya’s earlyyearsinCanadaandtakes afamilytoliveinCanada.”sponsoring Kurdi’s plight–I’mpartofagroupwhoare Syrian refugeefamiliesasaresultofAlan Canadians weremovedtoprivatelysponsor 2015, heaccepted25,000refugees.Many Minister Justin Trudeau was electedin the audience.WhenourcurrentPrime feel thetensionaroundtheseissuesin recently touredtoNew York andyoucould a resonanceintheStatesaswell.We we didn’t knowtheshow wouldhave elected,”not been reflects Hannah,“so Canadian?’” says Christian. a itmeantobe does of thequestion:‘What absurd andhateful.Thatwasattheheart thatisCanada,struckmeas experiment asiftheyhadmoreownershipofthe stock’, ‘olddivisive thing,callingsomepeople jewishrenaissance.org.uk. Outloud editor. Herblogsandpodcastsare at Herman co.uk andWhat’s Happeningpp60/61. Judi Playhouse; 8/9, CastDoncaster. See oldstocktour. 30/31, Salford. TheLowry Nov: 5/6, Old StocktoursOct:23-27, OldMarket ; Coady asChaya;Halifax’s Pier21, circa 1954 Left: BenCaplanastheWanderer Fay andMary The show moves through Chaim and The showmovesthroughChaimand wewerewriting,Trump“When had is JR’s editor, arts blog correspondent and n OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 35 H call, saysJudiHerman of Scotia capitalwastheirfirstport Canada inlarge numbers.TheNova From the1800s,Jews immigrated to A NEWWORLD GATEWAY TO HALIFAX: pier21.ca persons afterWorldpersons War II. 100,000 refugeesanddisplaced 1928 and1971,includingabout immigrants arrivingbetween gateway foraroundamillion Settlement. Pier21wasthemain in CanadafromthePale of grandparents, whohadarrived ofherparentsand experience throughout herlifebythe 1990, andshewasinfluenced 21 Museum, in whichopened She co-foundedthecity’s Pier who camethroughHalifax. was anotherchildofimmigrants were stilllargelyuntapped. with richnatural resourcesthat inthisvast land find prosperity Jewish refugeesarrived hoping to country forwork.In1914,18,000 the meanstotravel acrossthe Railway offeredemploymentand particular theCanadianPacific promise ofdevelopment–in were attracted toCanadaforits antisemitism. Jewish immigrants seekingrefugefrom Europe, Pale ofSettlementinEastern century theyarrivedfromthe the 1880s,andinearly20th inRussia pogroms to escape in grew toover155,000.Theycame country’s Jewish population Montreal in1927. rabbi’s daughterwhosettledin Masha Cohen,wasaRussian Thesinger’speriodical. mother, Canada’s firstAnglo-Jewish of theCanadianJewish Times, philanthropist andco-founder abusinessman, on tobecome in1869andwent as atoddler came toCanadafromLithuania paternal grandfather, Lyon, Lawrence River. LeonardCohen’s communities alongtheSt the remaining418insmall Toronto, 131inHamilton,and Jews: 409inMontreal, 157in census, in1871,recorded1,115 city in1750.Canada’s firstever they firstarrivedintheport Jewish immigrants fromwhen ofentrytoCanadafor point Ruth Goldbloom (1923-2012) Ruth (1923-2012) Goldbloom Between 1880and1930,the Nova Scotia,wasakey Canadian provinceof alifax, thecapitalof

n

THEATRE MUSIC

MUSIC Zion in Siberia Soviet Zion is a new concept album on the unlikely subject of the Russian Jewish settlement of Birobidzhan. Vivi Lachs asks Giles Howe what inspired him to write about it

n March 1928 the General Executive entered into a tough, unexpected daily almost a decade, illustrates this conflict Committee of the USSR under Joseph reality, but they buckle down and work of ideas and, at the same time, follows the IStalin established a territory in the Far hard on the land. However, this hard friendships and romantic connections East. Known as Birobidzhan, the area work clearly doesn’t suit all settlers, between the characters. served as a settlement for Jewish workers. because as the Levin family arrives at Howe grew up in Basingstoke, in a To encourage people to come and work in Birobidzhan railway station, we also see town he describes as having no Jews. With this faraway harsh land, Jews were offered crowds of Jews departing. virtually zero Jewish content in his daily private land ownership, which would The Levins have come from Malibu life, his contact with Jewish culture tended have been an enticing prospect to those and their brashness and urban American to surface only at family bar mitzvahs, worn down by economic pressures and ways create a strong culture clash. Howe yahrzeits (the annual anniversary of a loved pogroms and who were drawn by the idea explains how his approach was to take one’s death) and Pesach. As a teenager of a Jewish homeland in Russia. During the well-defined stereotypes of the old and he became increasingly interested in his 1930s, Yiddish advertisements and films new worlds, put them together and Jewish heritage, finding, as he describes, showed pioneers building a new see how they interacted. As the ‘exoticism’ appealing from a cultural Jewish country there and by the “I wanted characters rise to the challenges rather than a theological perspective. This middle of the decade there were to look at of their new Jewish homeland identity search led him to go on a Taglight nearly 18,000 Jews living in the (including getting used to Birthright trip to Israel in 2007. region and establishing a vibrant what ideas being farmers and rearing On his return Howe came across an Yiddish-language culture. of a Jewish animals) they argue different article about Birobidzhan, which led him This moment in history ideological positions and to reconsider his thoughts about Jewish provides the background for homeland struggle with issues of identity. identity and the Jewish state. He realised Giles Howe’s musical drama, mean” The narrative, spanning that both issues were more complex than Soviet Zion. The narrative of the ideas on being Jewish he had the piece begins in 1939 and follows the formulated from his upbringing, paths of two fictional families coming to or from the Zionist tour he had live in Birobidzhan shortly before the onset experienced. “I wanted to explore of World War II: the Libermans from the Ukraine and the Levins from California. The Libermans are supporters of Stalin, Above: The way to Birobidzhan – a still from one of the previous productions have faith in the Communist dream, of Soviet Zion. Left: Early pioneers of are modest and hard-working. They’re Birobidzhan in the 1930s

36 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 ©ZOE WHITE historical touch. letters, givingSovietZionanauthentic in Yiddishandtransliterated into English availableWhen completed,thiswillbe both translated thewholelibrettointoYiddish. chasidic Satmarcommunitywho has withawriterfromthe is collaborating Yiddish input.Now livinginFlorida,he Howe wasdeterminedtohave significant inEnglish, Yiddishland, butperformed inanysmallvenue. performed to be groupstoallowthework theatre andschool available be foruseasabackingtrack by instrumental versionofthemusicwillalso as aconceptalbuminautumn2019.An abletoreleasetheshow is excitedtobe at theJewish Museum in2014.Now Howe more completeversionthatwasperformed whole showatanearlystageandanother of 10thesongs,aworkshopconcert and todatetherehave aconcert onlybeen theworkparticularly difficult, performing contributed tothescore. particular KatyLipson,aco-writerwho team helpinghimworkonthepiece,in hisbaby,has been hehas hadaninvaluable project. He emphasisesthatalthoughthis onthe thesoleproducer andbeen book the lyrics,co-writtenanaccompanying entertaining. Howe hasalsowrittenallof grippingand Indeed, themusicisboth musical theatreandtheeffectisthrilling.” he explains,“isnotnormallyheardin contra doublebassandgong.Thisrange, regular instruments–dulcimer, duduk, orchestra thatincludes–aswellthe of themusichimselfforanenormous hehaswrittenmost As anautodidact, writing, Howe hugelyambitious. hasbeen that interestsme.” entertain withathought-provokingstory propaganda. Plus,ashesays, “itseeksto of aJewish theuseof homelandandabout identity,questions about theconcept about the fledglingIsraeli state),butitraises include somesmallengagementwith this isnotananti-Zionistplay (itdoes and New York. Howe emphasisesthat cities andtheyaddextra signstoJerusalem todifferentRussian erecting signposts are the couple,IserandMireleLiberman, oftheplayscene nearthebeginning where variety ofchoices.Thereisanentertaining the onlyhomeland”andthatJews hada runs countertothenarrative ofIsrael as to Birobidzhanshows“howthishistory the backofmyheadlikealivingmemory.” revealing what’s insideme.It’s rightthereat something itfeelslikeit’s notnew, butit’s journey:“Everya personal timeIlearn writing andresearchingthesubjectis I wantedtoraise questions.” For Howe, what itmeanstohave aJewish homeland. identity,” hereveals,“as at wellaslooking how Imightreconcilemyownheritageand Visit sovietzion.com topre-order the album.

Because the piece is set in Soviet Because thepieceissetinSoviet The sizeofthisprojecthasmade With over10yearsofresearchand Howe alsosays thatdrawing attention n W Danielle Goldsteinwhy it’s tocommemorate important thatdevastating night ofKristallnachtcontinuestoresonate,As thelegacy GabyGlassmantells Kristallnacht 80years on marks A concert great-grandparents, Julius and former homeof Glassman’s maternal the lives inStralsund andhadbought Friederike Fechner. Themusician cellistnamed contacted byaGerman to thismemorialconcert. than heritagethatconnectsGlassman tome.”very important Yet it’s more my family, myJewish identityisstill declined throughthegenerations in the degreeofobservancemay have “I grewupJewish andalthough fiveyearslater.Glassman wasborn to 1945.Shesurvivedthewarand she hadtoliveinhidingfrom1942 theNetherlands, occupied Germans to Holland in1937. However, afterthe byfleeing persecution tried toescape in Stralsund, north-eastGermany, done.”what shouldnowbe doneand demonstrates whatcanbe The saving ofthousandsyounglives Kristallnacht andtheKindertransport. the significanceofcommemorating prevent suchinhumanity. Thisis thatwereestablishedto the bodies the world.“Plusthereisinactionby Glassman says ofcurrenteventsacross ethnic cleansingandself-interest,” are againconfrontedwithviolence, theseanniversaries. “We remember trauma. Sheexplainswhyit’s vitalto in thetrans-generational effectsof who isapsychotherapist specialising ofJewishof theAssociation Refugees organised byGabyGlassman,atrustee to marktheevents.Theeveningisco- Library ishostingamemorialconcert 1939. on 1September from 1938untilthedeclaration ofwar trains toBritain under threat,boarded Those aged3-17, whosefamilieswere operation. in theKindertransport that saved thelivesof10,000children toinitiaterescueefforts Government of BrokenGlass),promptedtheBritish asKristallnacht(Night remembered be devastating night,whichwillforever attacks atthehandsofNazis. This Jews sufferedabuseandevenfatal were shattered,glassstrewn,andmany Sudetenland weredestroyed.Windows Germany, Austriaandtheformer shops andsynagoguesthroughout thousands ofJewish homes,hospitals, across theworld.Onthatnightin1938, In December 2016 she was 2016shewas In December “I feelveryJewish,” sheexplains. Glassman’s mother, who grewup Now, 80yearson,theWiener minds ofJews andnon-Jews inthe date thatreverberates ednesday 9November isa OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 37

the Kindertransport. that arerelatedtoKristallnacht and extracts oftheBlachfamilymemoirs with and thepiecesinterspersed byDame introduced EstherRantzen Bruch’s Kol Nidrei. Theeveningwillbe alongside Ravel plusMax andBloch, atthememorialconcert, performed whosemusicwillbe composers Glassman enthuses. was sotouchedbytheactofdefiance,” Iheardthis them.“When to perform was notJewish) wasmorethanwilling baptised name,Bartholdy. Zur(who broadcasting thepiecesunderhis music wasbannedbytheNazis, by decided toplay Mendelssohn, whose radio stationsheworkedforbravely a famouspianist,AdelheidZur. The tells methatHusmann’s motherwas pianist MathiasHusmann. Glassman Accompanying herattheeventwillbe Fechner theretoperform. shouldbe concert, itseemedfittingthat a Kristallnachtcommemoration had littleknowledgeofbefore. with familyroundtheworldthatshe Glassmanis now intouch persistence, could find.Thankstothiscuriosityand family andunitethedescendantsshe the determined touncovermoreabout the Holocaust,butFechner was of thecouple’s sixchildrensurvived Blachs, wereJewish. Sadly, onlyone discovered thepreviousowners, house, whichdatesbackto1680,she Fechner intothehistoryof looked Selma Blach.When co.uk andWhat’s Happening, p56. London. For detailsseewienerlibrary. further The

Cornelia, 1930 Cornelia,

uncle) with his daughter daughter his with uncle)

(Glassman’s great-great- (Glassman’s Paul Samuel Blach Blach Samuel Paul Mendelssohn is among the Mendelssohn isamongthe When theWienerLibrary proposed memorial concert is onThu22Novmemorial concert in n

MUSIC BOOKS

Religion really is a class A drug Can the intensity of religious experience be replicated by taking a pill? Peter Watts delves into the archives of the LSD Library (yes, really) to investigate the connection between spirituality and drugs

everal years ago, in a warehouse filled states”. Santo Domingo’s library contained be used to trace many things drug- with books about drugs, sex and rock up to 100,000 objects covering every related: their use and prohibition, self- BOOKS S‘n’ roll, I opened a cardboard box. aspect of the drug experience. It was experimentation and addiction, policing Inside was a beautifully illustrated fragile gathered over the years by a man obsessed and medication and their effect on art, book, printed on brown paper and bound with drugs and the sheer intellectual, society and consciousness. It could also be with frayed rope. This was a rare original inquisitive thrill of collecting. He named used to explore the bonds between drugs copy of From Bindu To Ojas, a book about it the Ludlow-Santo Domingo Library in and spirituality. This was something that the “search for cosmic consciousness” 2005 – or to use its helpful acronym: the intrigued Walter Benjamin, who wrote written in 1970 by Ram Dass and later LSD Library. LSD was also a reference to about everything from Baudelaire to Jewish republished as the multimillion-selling his pet dog, Louie Santo Domingo. After mysticism but who never got round to Be Here Now. It seemed out of place amid Mario Santo Domingo’s death in 2009, the completing his study of weed. all the drug literature but it was there collection was placed on long-term loan In a letter to his close friend Gershom for good reason. Dass, born Richard with Harvard University. Scholem, the first professor of Jewish Alpert, was raised in a Jewish American When I visited the LSD Library in 2011, mysticism at the Hebrew University of family but later said he “didn’t have one it was located in a warehouse in a Geneva Jerusalem, Benjamin promised “a truly whiff of God until I took psychedelics”. suburb. Inside lay a wealth of eye-popping exceptional book about hashish” – possibly This spiritual awakening took place at material, from beautiful first editions by while giggling and staving off the munchies Harvard, where Alpert and Tim Leary Charles Baudelaire to a hashish cookbook with the 1920s equivalent of junk food. began groundbreaking experiments with by Alice Toklas, the partner of Gertrude Only fragments of this opus exist – even psilocybin, a hallucinogen derived from Stein. There were books by Sigmund Freud a great Jewish German intellectual could mushrooms. In 1967, Alpert travelled to recording his experiments with cocaine, be derailed by marijuana. One thing that , where he gave LSD to every holy and material relating to Abbie Hoffman, intrigued Benjamin was whether drugs man he met. He soon realised it was having the activist who believed his instinct for could replicate the mystical experience no effect – they had, he decided, achieved rebellion lay in his Jewish upbringing. that came from religious devotion. His permanent enlightenment through But amid the leaflets, pamphlets, conclusion was that drugs could give “an religion. Duly convinced, Alpert changed posters, newspapers, letters, photographs, introductory lesson...[but] a dangerous his name to Ram Dass – “servant of God” – paintings and books were the oddest one, and the religious lesson is stricter”. and permanently swapped acid for God. items: a mummified grapefruit that It was a theme that reasserted itself Ram Dass was not the only writer once belonged to Keith Richards, vintage through the decades. In the library I was exploring this connection between medicine bottles for opium, cannabis captivated by The Psychedelic Guide to the drugs and gods. This was one of many infusions or coca wine, an ornate Chinese Preparation of the Eucharist, which had a things about drugs opium bed and a bicycle trippy green-and-orange cover emblematic that fascinated Julio that once belonged to of 1968, the year of its publication. Inside Mario Santo Domingo, acid casualty and rock were detailed chemical recipes for the a South American- star Syd Barrett. This manufacture of hallucinogenic drugs, but born businessman who wasn’t a library or even a also the instruction that these drugs were amassed the world’s museum. It was a portal only for those “who wish to use them for largest private collection to other dimensions. religious purposes”. Drugs, it was saying, dedicated to “altered The library could could be sacramental.

38 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 Clockwise: Mario Santo Domingo, the founder experience could be replicated through of the LSD Library; Walter Benjamin; the original psilocybin. The results appeared copy of From Bindu to Ojas by Ram Dass; conclusive. Most of the participants a collection of opium pipes from the LSD Library said they had felt a profound religious experience. Huston Smith, a religious The pamphlet was the work of the scholar, said it was the “the most Neo-American Church, founded in 1966 pronounced cosmic homecoming I have by Arthur Kleps. Calling himself Chief ever experienced”. Boo Hoo, Kleps argued that acid was For Carl Williams, a rare book dealer the sacrament of his church. When one who worked at the LSD Library as curator, of his ordained ‘ministers’ was put on this experiment “concluded that the trial in 1968, Kleps said that law should mystical experience could be replicated protect the Neo-American Church’s by a pill and that the secrets of the use of LSD just as peyote was protected human soul, the meaning of existence, in the Native American Church [a could be found within the psychedelic religion that teaches a combination experience”. For some, this could have of traditional Native American beliefs derived from “beatific”, meaning holy been a frightening conclusion but Santo and Christianity]. He lost the case, partly bliss and the library had numerous books Domingo was not unnerved. “Julio believed because the judge contended that an by chief Beat Allen Ginsberg – as well as a the drug experience took you to places that organisation that had ‘Row, Row, Row paper stars-and-stripes top hat he wore truly existed sui generis and drugs could Your Boat’ as its communal hymn could on demonstrations. Ginsberg received a allow you to actually visit these places,” says not be serious. scholarship to Columbia from the Young Williams. That included places where you As I explored the library’s vaults, Men’s Hebrew Association and began to could seek union with God. I found more examples. There were experiment with drugs in his attempt to Somewhere in the LSD Library were photographs of South African tribesmen recreate a quasi-spiritual encounter he letters between Robert Graves, author smoking dagga – cannabis – in ritual had experienced. He infused his poetry of The White Goddess and I, Claudius, BOOKS ceremonies, and LPs containing recordings with references to drugs and religious and John Brough, a Cambridge Professor of Mesoamerican magic mushroom mysticism before becoming a Buddhist. of Sanskrit. The letters concerned the ceremonies. Religion could be Jack Kerouac was also well findings of R Gordon Wasson, a banker detected in all sorts of places, represented. One highlight was and ethnographer, who believed the use such as the countless copies a drawing he made of a nun of magic mushrooms was instrumental of Thomas De Quincey’s clutching a rosary when the in the creation of primitive religions. One Confessions of an English author was rediscovering of Wasson’s claims was that the fly agaric Opium Eater. Inspired by Catholicism following a mushroom was really Soma, the drink the German Romantics, flirtation with Buddhism. that made man immortal according to the writers such as De Quincey and Later, Kerouac would Hindu Rigveda. In the letter to Brough, Samuel Taylor Coleridge implausibly claim that Graves claimed to have been the first questioned whether the On The Road, a book person to connect the fly agaric with both transcendent dream-state “Walter Benjamin saturated in casual drug Soma and the Ambrosia of Greek legends. induced by opium could never got around culture, was actually The debate about Soma and be compared with the about two Catholic mushrooms has never really been settled, ‘genuine’ transcendence to completing his friends searching for but Williams is adamant that Soma – a that comes from religious study of weed” God. Then there was mysterious, non-addictive, magical elixir worship. Were the mystical Ira Cohen, the Jewish – lies behind the foundation of the LSD experiences recounted by prophets such American filmmaker who published a Library. For a decade, Santo Domingo as Ezekiel or the 17th-century mystic hash cookbook in Morocco in the 1960s scoured the world looking for items to add Sabbatai Zevi really so different from (Santo Domingo had a copy, of course) to his collection, as much at home in flea the drug-inspired waking dreams of the and later wrote poems infused with markets as at auction houses. But what opium eaters? surrealism and spirituality. Fascinated by was he really looking for? Perhaps it was Some writers, such as Ralph Waldo Eastern mysticism, he made a film about Soma, the drug that Aldous Huxley said Emerson, argued that drugs were a a Hindu pilgrimage. Several of Cohen’s would expand consciousness and free “quasi-mechanical substitute” for true extraordinary psychedelic photographic society from “the wine-bibbing past, the transcendence, which could only come portraits from the 1960s are in the library. whisky-drinking, marijuana-smoking and from a union with the Divine. Others, That drift towards Eastern mysticism barbiturate-swallowing present.” Soma such as Fitz Hugh Ludlow, author of The via the avenue of drug-induced could create paradise on earth. If the Hasheesh Eater, contended that drugs enlightenment was not uncommon. One drug existed, perhaps its secret still lies could help people find their own route experiment Richard Alpert somewhere in the pages to genuine transcendence. Ludlow was and Tim Leary oversaw of the LSD Library? n a pioneering writer of drug literature, a was the Marsh Chapel sort of Thomas De Quincey of weed. Santo Experiment. It was Altered States: The Library Domingo had several editions of The conducted on Good of Julio Santo Domingo Hasheesh Eater, including one that once Friday, 1962 by Walter by Peter Watts, Anthology, belonged to Mark Twain. Pahnke, a graduate 2018. Peter Watts is the That debate about the authenticity of student at Harvard’s author of Up In Smoke: The the drug experience was continued by the Divinity School to discern Failed Dreams of Battersea

FROM ALTERED STATES, PUBLISHED BY ANTHOLOGY EDITIONS ANTHOLOGY PUBLISHED BY STATES, FROM ALTERED Beats, who sometimes claimed their title whether the religious Power Station.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 39 BOOKS BOOKS A tale of love, kabbalah and ice cream

Ariel Kahn’s novel follows Israeli teenager Malka as she travels across Israel trying to make sense of her life and encountering gay bike mechanics, celebrity chefs and plenty of along the way. Mike Witcombe talks to the author about his striking debut novel

ood is everywhere in Ariel Kahn’s Orthodox community and travels around profound connection to his home. debut novel, Raising Sparks. The Israel. It’s a coming-of-age novel with The novel was originally written as a F story takes place in pizza restaurants, huge reserves of empathy and intelligence, Creative Writing PhD thesis at Roehampton bakeries, upscale restaurants and kitchens covering everything from the role of University, where Kahn still teaches. A across modern Israel. Characters celebrate kabbalah in Jewish religious identity to key influence on the book was his desire the virtues of hamantaschen, kugel and internal divisions within Israeli culture. to pay homage to two friends who were coffee with . The most evocative Some chapters track Malka as she drifts killed in a bus bombing in Jerusalem in the sentences in the book emerge when from town to town. Others explore the 1990s, shortly after they got engaged. Kahn characters eat: a soup is “so finely balanced experiences of Moshe, a remembers receiving a in its ingredients, it was like a song”; an lovelorn kabbalist, as he “Characters letter from them telling oven-warm flatbread tastes “like being tries to find out what has him about the engagement hugged”. happened to her. celebrate the on the very same day he It is fitting then that I meet Kahn The two protagonists virtues of found out about their (pictured top right) in Joie de Vie – a are accompanied by a hamentashen, deaths. He says the friends Finchley café which played such an supporting cast of Russian were passionate about important role in the writing of the book security guards, stern- kugel and coffee feminism and Jewish that it gets a special acknowledgement faced patriarchs, gay bike with cardamom” mysticism and he was keen (their chocolate and pear tart fully justifies mechanics and celebrity for Raising Sparks to be a the hype). By the time we meet, Raising chefs. It’s a tribute to Kahn’s skill that way of sharing something of their spirit. Sparks has made an impressive impact, his extensive dramatis personae don’t Despite enthusiastic support including a full house for the launch in overwhelm the text: all of his characters are from supervisors, a publisher wasn’t Islington, a mention in the New York given space to reveal their own identities. forthcoming immediately. Just as he was Times and a review in the Irish Times that This is a surprising book; expectations about to abandon the novel, Kahn entered described the book as “Marquez in Jaffa”. are undermined at every turn. A boorish Pulp Idol, a nationwide competition for The novel traces the experiences of man turns out to be kind and supportive. new writers, where he had to present Malka, a teenage girl who leaves an ultra- An egotistical chef turns out to have a his work to a panel of professionals.

40 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 He finished runner-up. One of the instance. In Israel, the ultra-Orthodox panellists was Kevin Duffy from are referred to as ‘charedim’, or ‘the ones Bluemoose, an independent publisher who tremble before God’ – but too often I based in Yorkshire, who offered him a think they’re trembling before the wider contract shortly afterwards. world.” The other main character, Moshe, “When the novel was picked up for considers the ultra-Orthodox “shaken out publication, I wrote to the parents of of time by the trauma of the past”. Moshe my friends who had been killed, saying tells the leading rabbi in the community: that it had been 20 years [since their “You worship the walls and fences you’ve deaths] but the couple were still fresh built to keep God out.” in my mind, and the characters in the “I definitely feel like I’m part of a book were a kind of homage to them,” growing community of diverse voices that Kahn says. are offering new perspectives on Jewish The novel follows in the tradition culture and its relationship to the wider of magical realism, and Khan says world,” says Kahn. He recommends other it is a way of creating “a collision, a writers who are trying to push boundaries, confrontation, a conversation between such as his British contemporary Sarah a traditional culture and modernity.” Lightman and Israeli writer and graphic He is fascinated by how magical realism supervisor, the writer Leone Ross, who had novelist Rutu Modan. And his Arab-Israeli has been handled in Jewish literature and worked as a rape clinic counsellor. Book Club has recently relaunched as an talks about Isaac Bashevis Singer’s novel Kahn also aims to depict a new online magazine, promoting authors from Satan in Goray (translated into English intercultural community in his novel: “One the region who are making waves across in 1955), which offers an interesting based on a shared understanding of loss, political divides. perspective on dybbuks and possession and parallel histories, but also things that And, of course, there’s the food. “Food through the protagonist Rachele, a lame we can all agree on – starting with such is a way back into the culture that Malka’s girl who speaks in tongues. “But it’s a everyday things as . I want to open leaving behind, and into this brave new negative portrayal of Rachele’s descent into up spaces for dialogue and empathy.” world that she’s entering.” Kahn even madness,” he says. “She doesn’t really have Kahn’s interest in cross-cultural creates a unique dish in the novel, which BOOKS her own voice, she’s manipulated by men dialogue led him to establish the Arab- combines a Jewish food tradition with an around her. I thought, ‘wouldn’t it be great Israeli Book Club with the Palestinian Arab counterpart: Jerusalem Kugel Ice to have a woman articulating this vision?’ novelist Samir El- Cream. He hasn’t made especially when I started doing critical Youssef in 2009. Based “Kahn established it himself: “I’m waiting reading around the kabbalah.” in London, the club ran for a reader to say ‘I tried He is no stranger to religious study. monthly events where the Arab-Israeli this and it’s awful!’ or ‘It’s Born in London in 1973, he attended participants read books Book Club with wonderful!’” Reading the Yeshivat HaMivtar, a on the West from across different the Palestinian dish described so lavishly Bank, to train as a rabbinical student and Israeli and Arab literary – “bitter, yet sweet and has also taught kabbalah at the London cultures, including work novelist Samir strangely comforting” – I School of Jewish Studies. by Boualem Sansal and El-Youssef” was half tempted to give it Kahn proudly calls himself a Sara Shilo, and aimed to a go myself. feminist and says that the kabbalah can show the diversity of the region’s output, Given that food is so central to the be interpreted as a feminist discipline and bring new writing to new audiences. “I book, does Kahn have a favourite Middle because of its emphasis on female power. think any country [such as Israel], which is Eastern restaurant he visits in London? “One of the images that really spoke to me so extensively covered by the media and He says there are many, but he has been in kabbalah is this notion that the world is which people have a vested response to, is especially thrilled by the success of Yotam damaged and broken because the female hard to write fiction about,” says Kahn. Ottolenghi: “What I love about Ottolenghi’s element of the Divine, the Shechinah, is Another challenge was writing about a approach is that it talks about the stories in exile – this is why my main character community that is often misrepresented. behind the food. Food is never just food, goes missing…I loved the idea of bringing “I wanted to see people within the ultra- and that’s always been my experience.” kabbalistic texts into conversation with Orthodox community as individuals Kahn’s sister-in-law’s house in Israel modern Israel. What I’d always hoped for rather than stereotypes. But it was really was next to that of Ottolenghi’s parents, this book was that it would resonate with about what someone could take from and he says that the smells that came over people outside the community – in the such a community that might usefully from their kitchen wafted their way into same way that I love African and Indian critique our experience of modernity. his novel. literature, because it gives me a window My protagonist doesn’t abandon that Kahn calls Raising Sparks a “feminist, onto another world.” community, even as she refashions it in her spiritual road trip”. It’s also a novel with It also led to what Kahn identifies own individual approach. I’m hoping that’s humour, warmth, sharp intelligence as one of the biggest challenges a model for the discourse that we all have and an open heart, and it makes a in writing the novel: writing with our own cultures.” fascinating and fast-paced read. Just make as a teenage girl who Kahn avoids reductive and sure to stock the fridge experiences an attempted sensationalist depictions of the beforehand. n sexual assault. Kahn was Orthodox, but he is not uncritical. careful to represent gender He has reservations about how Raising Sparks by Ariel Kahn, LUCY PARSONS LUCY

© as sensitively as possible the community handles people Bluemoose Books, 2018, £8.99. and says he is indebted to the who leave it, such as Malka: “When Mike Witcombe is a lecturer in advice of the women in his life people do leave, they often have no English at Bath Spa University, who helped him write about tools or understanding of the wider where he teaches 20th-century

SHUTTERSTOCK; SHUTTERSTOCK; it, including his former PhD world – and both worlds are losers in this literature and theory.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 41 BOOKS

MAUREEN KENDLER, WHO DIED IN FEBRUARY THIS YEAR, BEGAN A SERIES ON BRITISH JEWISH WRITING FOR JR IN 2007. WE’LL BE REPUBLISHING THESE INSIGHTFUL PIECES OVER THE COMING YEAR PEERING ABOVE THE PARAPET In her first in the series, Kendler discusses the 1950s, as the community juggled emerging confidence with a lingering sense of unease

don’t think there’s any real cultural In 1956 the eminent literary critic Pupils on their first day at the Jews Free School, life in the Jewish community”, David Daiches wrote an extraordinary Camden, London in September 1958. Now known BOOKS commented Alexander Baron memoir of his Jewish as JFS, it is located in Kenton, north London. “I It was originally in the East End and was set up gloomily in a Jewish Chronicle interview childhood, Two Worlds. In the introduction for orphaned boys but was destroyed by bombing in 1958. In the late 50s the Holocaust cast to the 1987 Canongate Classics edition, during World War II. A new school was built in long, mostly silent, shadows over British Daiches stresses that he was ‘equally at Camden and reopened in 1958 Jews. Many had settled into the suburbs home’ in both his worlds: “That was my and were struggling to be Jewish at good fortune, and I have never ceased to be home and British in the streets. External grateful for it.” for granted that the deep, unmentioned evidence of Jewish life was found only in The young Daiches was immensely roots of his own faith would spread the Grodzinski signs above the bakers. proud of both his traditional Jewish automatically down the generations. He, Jewish babies were named Susan and heritage and his Scottish home, loving its as an Orthodox rabbi and student of Hume Stephen, while their Hebrew names piquant combination. He recounts with and Kant, had finally solved the relation memorialised dead relatives from Poland. great affection the colourful characters of between Judaism and modern secular The message given to these children the ‘trebblers’ (to use the culture...” was to succeed, yet to be invisible; to work Scots-Yiddish idiom) – the “Evidence of When David attended hard and enter the professions, yet not to itinerant salesmen who university, he began to trouble the power bases of British society; frequented the morning Jewish life was question both his belief to settle and to blend in, but never to trains out of Edinburgh to found only in in God and the validity of forget or intermarry, and to have antennae Dundee with their battered the Grodzinski . An even out at all times for the terrifying beast of suitcases, off to sell anything greater challenge was a antisemitism. they could. signs above romantic involvement with Jewish writing at this time reflected Daiches wonders the bakers” a non-Jewish fellow student, this tension. Anne Karpf, in her moving what their fellow Scottish whom he eventually memoir The War After (Bloomsbury, commuters made of these trebblers at married, but he and his father maintained 1996), recalls the often impossible burden their morning prayers, with phylacteries a profound love and connection despite the of her life as a ‘normal’ London child of strapped to their arms and head, followed rift that followed. survivors with a recent past of unbelievable by a pungent breakfast of black bread and In his old-style ‘family’ novel The horror. Her English forename with a . Bankrupts (Secker and Warburg, 1958), foreign surname which always had to be Reconciling these twin worlds caused Brian Glanville explores a different sort ‘explained’ is a perfect metaphor for the the young adult Daiches much anguish. His of generation gap. The word ‘Jewish’ is tightrope of her childhood. father, Rabbi Salis Daiches automatically conspicuous by its absence in this extract assumed that being an Orthodox Jew and from its opening chapter but Jewish an enthusiastic member of the secular and readers sighed with empathy. “The message given to scholarly world was a combination that “Darling,” pleaded Mrs Friedman “all children was to succeed, would filter effortlessly down to the next we want is that you should be happy!” generation. But this did not happen for “No, you don’t!” shouted Rosemary. yet to be invisible at the any of his four children: “My father in his From the coded reference of Mr

same time” innocence took much for granted. He took Friedman standing near “the curtained OF LONDON GRANT COLLECTION/MUSEUM ©HENRY

42 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 French windows” and his puzzlement at his daughter Rosemary’s preference for young men who “come from that lousy art school and dress like tramps” Glanville charted familiar territory. Mrs Friedman, “fresh from a day which had included nothing more strenuous than a charity committee meeting” confidently assures her husband that Rosemary is still young: “She’ll learn.” Rosemary, furiously weeping in her bedroom, knows better. THE LIFE OF SAUL BELLOW: LOVE AND But it was in the theatre that two STRIFE, 1965-2005 Zachary Leader intriguing new Jewish voices emerged at exactly this time. ’s The wREVIEWED BY David Herman Bellow the writer. We learn of what he Birthday Party had played to bewildered read and the writers who influenced audiences for one week in 1958 before ove and Strife, the second him and the writers he knew and closing to disastrous reviews. At its centre volume of Zachary Leader’s huge valued. Leader is especially good on is the menacing character of Goldberg, L biography of Saul Bellow, begins Bellow’s relations with his agents and powerful, threatening and dominant. in 1964. Bellow was almost 50 and at publishers, in particular the change Goldberg talks relentlessly, is incapable his peak. He had just published his from his long-time agent, Harriet of listening, and expresses an irritable greatest novel, Herzog, which sold over Wasserman, to Andrew Wylie. violence with everything he says. His 140,000 copies in hardback and spent The second theme is Bellow the weirdly encoded, perfectly pitched speech 42 weeks on the bestseller list. In the Jew, the son of Russian, Yiddish- patterns are recognisably Jewish: next ten years he produced two other speaking immigrants. In 1988 he “I’d say hello to the little boys, the little masterpieces, Mr. Sammler’s Planet gave a talk entitled ‘A Jewish Writer girls – I never made distinctions – and then and Humboldt’s Gift, his book of short in America’: “I was among other back I’d go, back to my bungalow with the stories, Mosby’s Memoirs, and was things a Jew. We were all Jews. We flat roof. ‘Simey,’ my wife used to shout, awarded the Nobel Prize. He was the spoke Yiddish, we spoke English, we ‘quick, before it gets cold!’ and there on the greatest American writer of his time. observed Jewish customs, accepted table what would I see? The nicest piece of By the late 1980s things looked Jewish superstitions, we prayed and rollmop and pickled you could very different. Bellow was increasingly blessed in Hebrew, our parents spoke BOOKS wish to find on a plate.” regarded as a dinosaur: right-wing, in Russian…” This is at the heart of his Goldberg is one of Pinter’s most a misogynist, out of touch with new voice as a writer. The Yiddish rhythms, disturbingly unclassifiable creations, attitudes towards race. “Who is the the Russian love of ideas, the Jewish always the feared outsider, not to be Tolstoy of the Zulus?” he said in 1988, warmth and nostalgia for the past. trusted. “The Proust of the Papuans? I’d be glad Leader does an excellent job of pulling Arnold Wesker’s With to read them.” He didn’t write another all these threads together. Barley, first staged in 1959, also eschews great novel after The Dean’s December He also does justice to the mix nostalgia, but his Jewish family, battling in 1982, though his short story of high- and low-brow. “Thomas to survive in the East End, is more Something to Remember Me By (1990) Mann with added jokes,” one friend empathetic. The politically active older was a masterpiece. And then began his called him. This is what made him, in generation, headed by Sarah, attempts to decline into old age. In 1994 he spent Amis’s words, “the supreme American communicate with the next generation, weeks in intensive care following a novelist,” – the ability to bring together who seem defeated and unmotivated. terrible illness. In the 1990s Philip modernism and modern America. Wesker puts fire and passion into the Roth began the series of novels that Above all, Leader treads delicately mouth of communist matriarch Sarah, established him as the new American through the arguments and rows: with frustrated at her son’s apathy and laureate, arguably displacing Bellow as ex-wives and sons, editors and agents, disillusion: the great American novelist of the late other writers and friends. Bellow was “If you don’t care you die…you want me 20th century. a difficult man and not always easy to to move to Hendon and forget who I am?” Zachary Leader tells this story like. Was there a better novelist in the As the world edged towards 1960, carefully over more than 750 pages. 30 years between Augie March and the transition to the next generation of The research is exhaustive, from Humboldt’s Gift? Not in English. But traditional Judaism, whether that meant the black underclass in how many great writers left as much Orthodoxy, socialism, or a cohesive family the 1970s to the seminars Bellow human wreckage in their wake? Four life, was a precarious one. taught at the Committee for Social divorces, three traumatised sons, so The challenges to the Jewish Thought and what Bellow later called many angry friends. “I’ve been a better community now were to integrate their “my numerous and preposterous son to you than you deserve,” one son traumatic previous decade with the marriages”. He provides powerful told him. Bellow, said his friend Ed turbulence of the coming one. Their portraits of some of Bellow’s closest Shils, has “no sense of obligation to place in Britain felt relatively secure and friends: John Cheever and Delmore any other human being”. Leader’s that was reflected in their literary self- Schwartz (Humboldt in Humboldt’s greatest achievement is that he leaves expression, which was more public, even Gift), Allan Bloom (Ravelstein in the final judgement to the reader. experimental. Bellow’s novel of the same name) All the evidence, But Jewish writings in the late 1950s and the old gang from 1930s Chicago. including the most showed a tense, uneasy community, raising There are also wonderful literary damning, is there. n its head above the parapet with confused stories such as when Bellow beat off wPUBLISHER Jonathan diffidence as well as emerging confidence. n the other judges to ensure that VS Cape wPRICE £35 Naipaul won the 1971 Booker Prize, How did things change in the 1960s? You can read his friendships with Roth and Martin David Herman writes for Maureen Kendler’s second article in the series in Amis and his rivalry with John Updike. the Guardian and the New January’s JR. Two other themes stand out. First, Statesman.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 43 BOOKS

Walk the walk: the story of Kinder Scout A new book tells the story of the Peak District’s highest plateau. Liz Cashdan says it’s a fitting tribute to the people who fought for the public right to walk this beautiful British countryside

have three reasons for being grateful get lost all too easily. Once you’ve climbed 18th-century visitors to Kinder Scout and that I was asked to review Ed Douglas’ the 2,000 feet, if you stick to the stony edge meet Hannah Mitchell, who was born in Inew book Kinder Scout: The People’s paths, there are miles of flattish walking 1871, grew up on a farm in the Peak District Mountain, which traces the history of and brilliant views. and ran away to Manchester, where she Britain’s first National Trail at Kinder Beatty’s photographs capture the Kinder joined Labour Party. The BOOKS Scout, the 1,970ft gritstone plateau that scenery and its people across the seasons 19th-century novelist, Mrs Humphrey Ward, flanks Derbyshire’s Peak District. Firstly, and at different times of day. Apart from his also visited Kinder, but while Mitchell’s I lived for 20 years (from 1997 to 2017) in own responses to the place, people and autobiography, The Hard Way Up, supported Sheffield, walking many weekends as a wildlife, Douglas gives us the history of the the labour movement and women’s rights, member of the Clarion Ramblers, who mountain, its farmers, shepherds and Ward opposed women’s suffrage. Her novel, often walked up, over and around Kinder visitors, and especially the walkers who The History of David Grieve, idealises a very Scout. Secondly, my first walk up Kinder fought for the right to roam the Kinder area. conservative farming community. in 1968 was from the Manchester side of For a long time Kinder was carved up Benny Rothman received a four-month the plateau with my brother-in-law, Wulf among landowners who wanted to keep the prison sentence for his part in the Mass Rudoe. Wulf was another keen walker of area for grouse-shooting and refused access Trespass. The judge in summing up referred the same generation as Benny Rothman to the increasing numbers of middle- to the fact that three of the defendants were – the man responsible for the 1932 Mass and working-class walking clubs and Jewish, although I suspect that Rothman’s Trespass that made my 1968 walk possible. individuals from Manchester and Sheffield. life and commitment to communism was Thirdly, as a poet, photographer and Enter Benny Rothman in 1932. Rothman, probably stronger than his commitment to walker, I am interested in how places the son of Romanian immigrants, was Judaism. Douglas writes: belong to walkers, writers and visual a Manchester Jewish working-class “Had the Kinder trespass not been artists, and how walkers, writers and visual Communist in his early 20s, and he was organised by working-class communists, artists belong to places. prepared to take on the landowners and and Jewish communists at that, it might Kinder Scout is a coffee-table book if police by organising a mass trespass of the not have provoked the same level of tension for no other reason than its Kinder area. and prejudice. As a consequence it would weight – don’t try reading On 24 April 1932, not have made the impact it did.” Later he it in bed or you’ll wake up “Rothman was around 500 men and concludes: “The notion that the children stiffer than after a walk on prepared to women took to the hills in of immigrants might try to change British Kinder. But it’s a lovely book take on the defiance of the law. The culture has great potency, especially now in both for its photography by protest was intended to be an age dominated by identity politics and John Beatty and its written landowners peaceful but keepers armed deep-rooted changes to the nation’s sense accounts, personal and and the police” with sticks confronted the of itself... Many of the most influential political, by Ed Douglas. marchers. After a struggle, access campaigners who worked towards Born and brought up in the area – Beatty the demonstrators marched on and the access legislation that finally passed now lives in Sheffield, Douglas in nearby finally returned in triumph to the town of in 2000 took inspiration from the trespass Bamford – they have walked in Derbyshire’s Hayfield. Three weeks after the trespass, and from Benny himself.” n Peak District National Park all their lives. some 10,000 ramblers held a rally at nearby This book is a witness to their love of the Castleton and the right-to-roam movement Kinder Scout: The People’s Mountain by Ed Peak’s central mountain, Kinder Scout. was born. In 1951 Britain’s first national Douglas and John Beatty, Vertebrate Publishing, There are no peaks here but a wild, park was created in the Peak District. 2018, £19.95. Liz Cashdan is JR’s Poetry Editor. peaty plateau cut by grykes and groughs (to Rothman is not the only person to figure Her latest collection is Things of Substance: New JOHN BEATTY

use the Derbyshire dialect) where you can in Douglas’ account. We hear of 17th- and and Selected Poetry, Five Leaves, 2013. ©

44 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 WIKI COMMONS O w a typewriter around the room because because aroundtheroom a typewriter whowill bounce arse, thesortof reporter also makehimsomethingofapain inthe deep aversion toauthority. Thiscould in thisiron-cladmoral certaintyand resourceful reporter, butitliessomewhere a hard-working,resilient,relentless and a Holocaust denier”. father wasa“Holocaustsurvivoraswell that innevermentioningthishistory, his there. More unsettlingishisdeclaration which heuncoveredin1969,it’s clearly massacre ofVietnamesevillagersatMy Lai, draws aparallel withthe American father’s hometown,andwhilehenever murdered theJewish ofhis population discovers thatLithuaniancollaborators in interrogatingthatfamilialpast.He later Hersh, andthismemoirshowsnointerest ridetoAmerica,”for thelongboat writes parents toleave theirfamilyandbirthplace our whatcompelled fully understood and Poland. “None ofus immigrants fromLithuania the SouthSideofChicagoby Jew”, Hersh wasraised on controversial stance. he hastakenapugnaciously Onboth, chemical weapons. Laden andSyria’s useof the deathofOsamaBin on hasbeen his focus although morerecently and BushJr andClinton, Nixon, Reagan,BushSr through thedays ofLBJ, distrust servedhimwell That to misleaditspeople. government’s propensity first discoveredtheUS the mid-60s,whenhe story afterfrom in allofthem,breaking as Hersh wasinvolved Itscarcelymatters, spying? assassinations ordomestic Watergate, CIA got thespacehewanted. did, ofcourse,andtheindefatigableHersh fortheeditor’snumber newgirlfriend.She estranged wifeifshecouldgivehima only todialbackaminutelateraskthe left her. Hersh slammedthephonedown, the phonethatherhusbandhadrecently toldbythewomanwhoanswered to be called hisexecutiveeditorat2am,only top. Tracking downahomenumber, he word count,afuriousHershittothe took editor thathehadsoaredpasthisallotted for theNew York Times. Told byanight was workinglateatnighttofileastory

REPORTER: AMEMOIRSeymour Hersh REVIEWED BY Hersh doesn’t say whatmadehimsuch “punk A self-described Was Vietnam, thisastoryabout really mattered, Seymour Hersh really mattered,SeymourHersh when investigativejournalism ne weekendbackinthe1970s, Peter Watts “Hersh isa enterprise” leg workand of intuition, hustling frenzy Reporter, atetchyHersh defendshimself tarnish anextraordinary career?In Does this regime. Isheanapologist? indistinguishable fromthatoftheAssad in particular, hislinehasoftenbeen revelatory astheMy Laiscandal. at AbuGhraib, whichareeverybitas thetorture devastating articlesabout An inspiredHersh writesaseriesof he detestsjustasmuchdidKissinger. whom him againsttheneoconservatives, again untiltheWar onTerror. Thatpits – butyousensehe’s notfullymotivated happiest whenuncoveringthedarksecrets malpractice andorganisedcrime,buthe’s he’s away. ofcorporate Thereareexposés wouldtouchit.Afterthat, when nobody determination togetthestoryinprint andenterprise,plusa persuasion hustling frenzyofintuition,legwork, –a terrific insightintohowheoperates he brokeMy Laiinclosedetail,andit’s a abuses inVietnam.Hersh explainshow when herevealedthehorrorofAmerican the Pulitzer-winningMy Lairevelations, programme, swiftlyfollowedby weapons America’sgrabbing storyabout chemical wellfunded. investigative reporting jobswereplentifuland when newspaper fortunate hewastoworkduringanera and isparticularlygenerousonhow tells hisstorywithwitandself-awareness, he isn’t happywithacopy-editor. Yet he Which bringsustotoday. OnSyria, His firstbreakwasanattention- secrets to Israel, or a secrets toIsrael, ora the spywhosoldUS military decides he’s aCIAagent Stone untilStone,bizarrely, Panamaabout withOliver he’s writingascreenplay not busy–atonepoint, programme. He’s never Israel nuclearweapons forthe American support hewroteexploring book case ofJonathan Pollard, Israel. There’sabout the inevitably meantwriting of the Middle East, which of theMiddleEast,which drawn intotheconflicts increasingly became Kissinger is the perfect foe. Kissinger istheperfect w w enemy now? precisely whoisHersh’s But thequestionlingers: Western governments. uncovering theliesof faultless track recordin toanear- by pointing set himself against, and set himselfagainst,and has atangibleenemyto He whenhe isathisbest Henry Kissinger with zeal. Henry Kissingerwithzeal. the crimesofCIAand of US intelligence,tackling PRICE PUBLISHER From the80s,Hersh £12.76 Allen Lane

n OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 45 books withaJewish theme Rebecca Taylor picksthebestnew the last70 years. challenges thathave facedIsrael over her odyssey withareflection onthe education across Israel. Shalviblends a modelforwomen’s Orthodox school forgirlsinJerusalemhasbecome 1990. Thisprogressive religious high School, whichsheheadedfrom 1975to was theestablishmentofPelech One ofhergreatest accomplishments before moving toJerusalemin1949. London andstudiedatCambridge, to Orthodox parents, Shalvigrew upin information overload. world thatoftenseemsdauntinginits anoriginalapproach toa and offers between seeminglydisparate things and wit.Cohendraws connections subjects thathedissectswithalacrity Jewish Bukhara are amongthemany Gustav Mahler, JohnZorn andavisitto constant distraction. BernieSanders, w w Fitzcarraldo Editions nonetheless. Waspish andgossipy, yes, but enjoyable forevery tickofhiswatch.”perfectly the spyabouthim;hecanaccount issomethingof Pinter hewrites:“There Reagan WhiteHouse”. OfHarold honour thantobeunwelcome atthe Sarandon could“imaginenogreater disposable.”comforting, Ouch.Susan Kleenex asitself:clean, not somuchthegreatest thingsince Michael Frayn hewrites,“Hisplaysare Raphael’s acerbiccommentary. Of of high-profile figures is skeweredby BOOKS INBRIEF by JoshuaCohen DISTRACTION FROM THELANDOF ATTENTION: DISPATCHES by AliceShalvi NEVER ANATIVE by Frederic Raphael AGAINST THESTREAM PRICE PRICE £20 £19.99 The seventh volume of the early 1980s. A parade the early1980s.Aparade Hollywood andLondonin of theglitteringelite account memoirs isapacy Frederic Raphael’s w Born inGermany in1926 speak forthemselves. that letsherachievements in anunderstatedway Alice Shalvitellsherstory The activistandfeminist attention in an age of attention inanageof reclaim thepower of focuses onhow we might (Book ofNumbers) from JoshuaCohen This selectionofessays PUBLISHER w PUBLISHER w PRICE w PUBLISHER Carcanet £14.99

Halban BOOKS THE MODERNISTS

OUR SERIES, BASED ON THE BLOG OF ARCHITECTURE AND TRAVEL WRITER ADRIAN WHITTLE, LOOKS AT THE JEWISH ARCHITECTS WHO SHAPED MODERN DESIGN MOSHE GERSTEL uring the 1930s, Haifa was often referred to as the “city of the D future”. It underwent significant development in the interwar years when the Hadar HaCarmel neighbourhood was established. Modernism was the dominant architectural style and the market hall of Shuk Talpiot on Sirkin Street was one of the area’s most distinctive buildings. The shuk was built in response to the Arab revolt in the city in 1937-39, when the Jewish residents of the mainly Arab lower city section fled the area. Jews from across Haifa no longer felt safe to visit the markets there. Plans were made to build a major market in the centre of the Jewish area of Hadar. The site was challenging. It was located on a steep slope on rocky ground. Nonetheless a design competition was held attract customers. in Haifa, Gerstel established a lifelong THE MODERNISTS and architect Moshe Gerstel, working with Sadly the building has been allowed to friendship with Hajj Tahir Karaman, a engineer C Cohen, submitted the winning deteriorate terribly and when I visited two successful Arab businessman and deputy entry. His design addressed the difficult years ago only the basement remained in mayor of the city. Although Karaman was issues of the site and required only local use for selling produce. The ground floor an Arab nationalist, he was not opposed to materials. Construction began in 1939 and had a few low-quality stalls and the upper co-operating with Jews and recommended the building was inaugurated in April 1940, levels were sealed off. Many of the windows Gerstel to several other wealthy Arab when the city’s mayor praised the architect were broken and feral cats roamed about. families, who commissioned him to design who “with imagination and ingenious Netting had been installed to prevent their homes. The friendship between creativity gave this city of the future a pigeons causing further damage but Karaman and Gerstel was so strong that structure in which she can take pride”. serious action is required if the building is when the Gerstel family were in financial Gerstel’s design included a rectangular to survive. difficulties, Karaman not only took them in structure at the front of the building and Gerstel was an interesting character. but also added four rooms to his own home a circular market hall to the rear. The He was born in Galicia in 1886 and studied for them. Gerstel also designed a house for stalls were arranged over three floors in Lviv and Vienna before joining the army his friend in the same street as the shuk underneath a glass roof that flooded the in World War I. From 1922 to 1935, he lived and continued designing for the Karamans building with natural light. There were also in Bucharest and designed many buildings even when they left Haifa after 1948. stalls planned for the ground floor and in there. In 1935, he made . Settling Karaman’s recommendations resulted the basement. Horizontal windows covered in commissions for three residential the surface of both parts of the building, properties on Tchernikovsky Street on giving views over the city and the bay Mount Carmel. One of these properties is (pictured bottom right). now divided into two with a Jewish family The shuk quickly became a focal point living in one half and an Arab family in the for Haifa’s Jewish residents. The Israeli other, perhaps continuing the architect’s writer Nissim Levi, who saw the building tradition of good intercommunal relations. just after it opened, described it as “… the Another property here, the Agnes Khouri biggest and fanciest shopping centre in the house (pictured top) at No. 29, was built in Middle East… The central structure was 1937 and has a spectacular, glazed curved roofed with a brilliant glass ceiling and the corner. Gerstel’s star began to fade in the sunlight that seeped inside glittered on the 1950s but he remained in Haifa until his fresh fruits and vegetables and created a death in 1961. n colourful celebration that the eye can never get enough of”. He also recalled the wide adrianyekkes.blogspot.co.uk. For more on 1920s range of products available and the songs and 30s Haifa architecture see Haifa City of Steps

and slogans made up by the vendors to by Nili Scarf Gold, Brandeis, 2017. ADRIAN WHITTLE

46 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 Sephardi RENAISSANCE

48 FILM The Wolf of Baghdad 50 INSIDE REPORT The rise of the brachot party 52 HISTORY Who owns Jewish culture?

SPONSORED BY DANGOOR EDUCATION

Prayer power: blessings said at brachot parties that are taking off around the UK ROB GREIG:WWW.ROBGREIG.COM © OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 47 FILM

The call of the wolf The Wolf of Baghdad, Carol Isaacs’ beautiful cartoon memoir, will be screened at JW3 this autumn. The artist and musician tells Rebecca Taylor how the chance finding of a wolf’s tooth inspired her investigation into her Iraqi background

mong Carol Isaacs’ beautiful Yiddish and eating bagels. People are very of nationalism, Arab nationalism. That graphics of her family’s life in surprised to hear that there were Jews in toxic mix led to marginalisation of the SEPHARDI RENAISSANCE A Iraq is an image of a gold clasp Afghanistan, Persia, Yemen and all across minorities. Jews were a sizeable minority. holding a single white tooth. “I found this the Arab world. In the 1940s they accounted for a third amulet among my mother’s belongings of the population of Iraq – around 140 to after she died,” says Isaacs as we chat near RT: When did your family leave Baghdad? 150,000 people. her home in London’s Chalk Farm. “It’s a CI: My father left for London in the late In the 1940s things started to change. wolf’s tooth. According to Baghdad legend, 1940s; my mother stayed on to look after When I interviewed one of my uncles for the wolf is supposed to ward off bad luck.” my grandfather and came to the UK in the the memoir, he said: “We had to hide our Later Isaacs emails me a reference to this 50s, my grandmothers in the 1960s. I was Jewishness in public. We couldn’t speak tradition from David Sassoon’s 1917 book, A the first generation born here in the 1960s. our dialect [Judaeo-Arabic] as it would History of the Jews in Baghdad: “The belief It was a gradual leaving – but a leaving mark us as Jews. We couldn’t be seen with is current among Baghdadi Jews that the behind of everything. anything written in Hebrew in public wolf keeps away spirits and demons. In the or at home in case we were accused of dark they exclaim their fear of demons: RT: Why did they leave? spying.” It was a gradual decline, which ‘Dheeb Hader’, ie the wolf is present.” Now CI: It depends on which generation you culminated in the Farhoud, as it came to Isaacs, who produces her artwork under speak to. My father would have answered, be called, when over 180 Jews were killed the wonderful pseudonym of The Surreal “We got on well with other Iraqis, and in a pogrom in Baghdad on 1 June 1941. It McCoy, has created her own version of the things were wonderful.” That was in the shocked everybody. It seemed to come out wolf myth with The Wolf of Baghdad, a 1920s. My father had a comfortable life. of nowhere. cartoon memoir of her family’s life in Iraq. He was in the import/export business Things were never the same after that. and worked with the British Army during My family was caught up in the Farhoud REBECCA TAYLOR: What was the catalyst the war, especially transporting goods to but my aunt said Muslim neighbours for The Wolf of Baghdad? Palestine. That helped him stood guard at either end of CAROL ISAACS: I did an illustrated to get a British passport the street to make sure that essay for a US/UK online comic site called and come to Britain. the mobs didn’t attack Jewish The Strumpet, where I wrote about the But the rise of fascism homes. There were many acts Sundays I spent as a child in London when in Europe in the 1930s of kindness from Muslim my father’s colleagues would visit from affected what was neighbours. Baghdad. On those days our house became going on in the Middle There were restrictions ‘Little Baghdad’. That led to the Wolf of East. [Hitler’s National put on the Jews afterwards, Baghdad. Socialism was attractive such as a crack down But I also wanted people to know that to many Iraqis.] In Iraq on Jewish businesses being Jewish is not just about speaking they had their own brand and ridiculous things, for

48 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 ©CAROL ISAACS influence yourownmusic? background? aware being ofyourIraqi CI: RT: Iraqi citizenship. oftheir they werestripped wanted toleave thecountry in banks,andifanyone business oronhaving money they call? either, sowhoonearthwould allowed tousethetelephone no oneelsetheyknewwas use theirtelephone.But example, myfamilycouldn’t CI: RT: folk music,music fromtheAlKuwaity The Wolf isIraqi ofBaghdad performance mentoring me. Iraqi Jewish musicandthey have been in Rivers ofBabylon.Theyallspecialise Manasseh andKeith Cloustonfrom from LosDesterrados and Dr Sara topreserveit. important relevance tome.Now Iseethatithas.It’s this musicthatIneverthoughthadany It’svery special. funnygoingbacktolearn like learningawholenewlanguage.It’s a differentfeelthanWestern one.It’s music usingtheArabic scale,which gives had tolearnhowplay I play Arabic accordion.I’ve screenings. For thisproject will accompanysomeofthe autumn andmyband,3yin, at variouseventsinthe shownonscreen will be Ifeltasiflived intwoworlds. occasions what wasgoingonbackhome.Onthose talked allnightwithmyfamilyabout presents –sometimesgoldandthey theybrought were inBaghdadbecause to visitfromIraq. Thenyoureallyfelt non-Jewish whocame businessassociates My fatheralsooftenhad – shemadegreatbourekas. mother wasafantasticcook My of Iraq wereinthefood. buttonhole. Theonlyvestiges rose fromthegardeninhis suit,with a in apinstriped went tohisofficeintheCity passed asaBritishgent.He house. heard anyArabic musicinthe names.Inever had European clothesand wore European They were veryEuropeanised. classical. InBaghdadthey in myparents’ house,itwas music old, butifIthinkabout music whenIwasfouryears it.Istartedplaying talk about

TheWolf ofBaghdad No, myparentsdidn’t

There were restrictions on There wererestrictionson The musicthatweplay toaccompany working withDaniel been JonasI’ve My fatherwouldhave Do your Iraqi roots Do yourIraqi roots Did yougrowup “I have an research” helps withmy Baghdad who Muslim fanin 18-year-old cartoon? in thisculture? CI: RT: CI: RT: they didn’t play theywereJewish. because Inthe1930s, constraints inperforming. Muslim musicians,theyhadnoreligious really ledtheway inIraqi music.Unlike they hadradios andrecordplayers. Jews to. Apartfromsongsinthesynagogue, what theJews ofIraq wouldhave listened and religiousJudaeo-Arabic music.It’s brothers (SalehandDaoud Kuwaity) Wembley Sephardisynagogue. setup Road, andmyfamilyhelped and Portuguese synagogueinLauderdale of thatworld.We totheSpanish belonged WhenIwasgrowingup,part cartoon. some oftheSephardisynagogueswith touring Sephardi audienceandwillbe ChristianandMuslim Iraqis whoare I’mhopingtoattract ayounger

What response have What response youhadtothe Jews Are youngSephardi interested

told thatthiswastheoneday they weren’t playing. He was who wasafan,askedwhy Prime MinisterNuri al-Said, didn’t onairand perform that oneYom Kippurthey musicians. There’s astory almost entirelyofJewish Orchestra wasmadeup The Iraqi National Radio

travels withamythicalwolftoBaghdad. inLondonand memoir: thestorybegins one.Itisastrong presenceinthe positive influence –butintheMiddleEastit’s a illness. aroundtheir neckstowardoff tooth wolf’s andtheyhunga similar intheirculturetoo Theysaidtheyhad something people. tosomeBedouin lastyearandspoke Museum inIsrael. Iwentonahikein in it–Isaw asimilaroneattheBabylonian mother’s amulethadaturquoise stoneset it thatcrossoverintoothercultures.My See What’s Happening p55. .org.uk; thewolfofbaghdad.wordpress.com. and Thursday22November at7.30pm, JW3.See Wolf ofBaghdad +3yinWednesday 21November CI: RT: generation immigrants have. know. It’s something thatmanysecond- hand, Ihave thatlongingforaplaceIdon’t why wouldIwanttogoback?Ontheother the memoirisaddressing:ononehand, nothing leftofthatformerlife.That’s what after bysomeMuslim residents.There is is onehiddensynagoguethatlooked are gone,thecemeteriesgone.There affection isnotthereanymore.Ourhouses withsuch about my familyhasspoken knownthattheIraq that All mylifeI’ve OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 49 I have mixed feelings about the place. Ihave theplace. mixedfeelingsabout

The wolfinWestern cultureisamalign Would youliketogoBaghdad? more accessible. more accessible. whichwillmakeit as abook, have published thecartoon Arabs. Eventually to Ihope thelivesofJewsabout or have nothave heardmuch new audiencewhoprobably a in Cumbria,sotherewillbe Comic ConventioninKendal at theLakesInternational presentation ofthememoir listened totoday. time andtheirmusicisstill Arab musicofthe the popular Baghdad. Theywrotemostof were activein1920sand30s such astheAlKuwaitys who obliterated Jewish musicians finger atSaddamHussein. He Webooks. the canpoint erased fromtheirhistory history, whichhasbeen oftheir Iraqis inthisaspect I needformyresearch. me photosofBaghdad,which He’s sohelpful,sending been found methroughmyblog. old Muslim student.Ithinkhe Baghdad whoisan18-year- great hope. contacted me.Thatgivesme want toknowmorehave interested inthestoryand There are lots of things in There arelotsofthingsin askedtodoa been I’ve There isinterestamong I have afanlivingin

n SEPHARDI RENAISSANCE SEPHARDI INSIDE REPORT

Faith healing and miracles: a night out at a Hendon prayer party Every month, hundreds of women from the UK’s Sephardi community participate in prayer meetings that are said to result in miracles. Michelle Huberman reports on the trend. Photography Rob Greig

SEPHARDI RENAISSANCE sraeli-born hairdresser Esti Levy is a Brent Street, Hendon, London. prayers for my recovery, and thank God, I woman with a mission. Fifteen years ago, On a Sunday in early September, I meet made a complete recovery. I was given the ILevy was reading a book that discussed up with Esti at one of these parties to see all clear in 2010. I believe I am alive today the power of saying ‘amen’ – the word what is generating such excitement among because of the power of those prayers.” uttered at the end of a prayer to validate north London’s Sephardi communities. Mira Mitchell has also been coming it. She was so overwhelmed by the book’s The synagogue hall is filled with women to the parties since they started. “When I message that she felt she wanted to spread and the first 15 minutes are spent with come here, I feel I have 20 minutes of direct the idea to let others know that a simple small groups of friends chatting together or contact with God. It is very special because word could “empower your soul and welcoming new women to the event. the ceremony brings us all together like one connect you directly to God,” she says. Most of the women are Sephardi but family. It makes my prayers feel stronger,” Esti, who is in her 60s and lives in not all. Some are religious but certainly not she says. Hendon, decided to gather her female all. The ages run from small children with Esti can hardly get the words out quick friends together in “a beautiful communal their mothers to those in their 80s and 90s. experience to make saying prayers even Once I start chatting to them, I discover more powerful”. Her gatherings are called that that many come in order to look for a ‘brachot’ parties from the Hebrew word for miracle that money cannot buy: a longed- blessings recited at specific times during for child; a husband; or the recovery of Jewish services. Esti was brought up in a a sick relative. The atmosphere is warm family with roots in Iraq and Turkey. She and hospitable and there is a spread of left Israel for the UK 30 years ago and says tempting food – cakes, crisps, and ever since she was a girl she has enjoyed fruit – laid out on lines of tables. But woe organising events and bringing people betide you if you start nibbling from them together. – you will quickly be reprimanded and The parties started in 2003 as small told to wait for the blessings and ceremony events, but as the women began to pray to start. While the women chat, a team together, they started to feel that positive of volunteers starts arranging the food, things were happening in their lives and meticulously dividing the plates into five the gatherings grew by word of mouth. groupings on each table. Today her parties gather between 60 and “I was diagnosed with breast cancer 200 women and take place at the beginning and operated on in 2004,” says Shoshana of each Jewish month (Rosh Chodesh) at Bard, who has been attending Esti’s parties the Heichal Leah Sephardi synagogue in since they began. “At the parties we all said

50 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 Clockwise: women at the Golders Green brachot party in September; Rav Doron (in hat) at the ceremony in Golders Green; Esti Levi (standing) with Sima Moreno and her mother; Mira Mitchell, all at Golders Green

During the ten days between Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur this year Esti held her party in another Sephardi synagogue in Golders Green. Her guest speaker was Rav Doron, an Israeli rabbi from the nearby Doron synagogue. Speaking mostly in Hebrew, he conducted a ceremony known as ‘hatarat nedarim’ (the annulment of vows), which is part of the prayers of atonement in the lead-up to Yom Kippur. The evening was full of rituals. Those who needed prayers for healing put their names on pieces of paper that were passed round so that others could pray for them, and the event concluded with the party reciting prayers together. But surely Esti and her friends don’t really believe that blessings can cure SEPHARDI RENAISSANCE illnesses or deliver up babies? “If you have faith and willpower you can get over anything,” she says. enough as she tells me why the parties are blessings are said with them. One pile with I ask her if she has always had this so important. “God loves the word amen,” biscuits and crackers are ‘mezonot’ (foods faith. “I came from a religious family and she explains, “and we have had so many made from grains), and these symbolise walked away from it for a while. But I felt miracles [from these parties]. We’ve had ‘parnasa’ – in Hebrew, financial success. my life without that faith was lonely and childless women come and we bless them, Another pile with is ‘hagefen’ superficial, so I went back to it. Modern and they then do have children. Those (from the vine), which symbolises success life makes you feel empty. If you watch struggling to find partners – they meet in finding a partner or strengthening a TV you feel unclear and confused. People someone here who will introduce them to relationship. Another is made up of ‘ha’etz’: are looking for meaning in life and these a partner. The power of everyone together fruits that grow on a tree, such as olives, prayer parties make people feel happy.” saying ‘amen’ out loud is so strong.” apples and dates. These Whatever cynics Esti struggles to hush everyone so symbolise children, and “They are looking might say, brachot parties that the ceremony can begin. Groups of the blessings said with are also sprouting up women gather at each of the tables; as Esti them are for those who for miracles in Manchester – and points, the women at that table stand, take want to have children or money can’t buy: a in America. There are some food from one of the piles and say to protect the children also offshoots aimed a blessing over it before sitting down and already in their lives. child; a husband; specifically at children. eating the food. When all the groups in the ‘Ha’adama’ is fruit that or good health” For the last seven years, room have said the blessing, the process is doesn’t grow on trees, Hendon resident Aviva repeated with the next one. such as melon. The blessing said over Rowe has been running such events in The food has been divided into groups this group is for someone who is sick or her home. She converts her large dining which, according to the Torah, all have suffering. ‘Shehakol’ are all other foods, table into a space for the ceremonial plates

WWW.ROBGREIG.COM different symbolic meanings, and specific and their blessings are for soldiers, Israel of food and each child takes their turn to and the Jewish community. recite a blessing followed by a chorus of There are also ‘besamim’ – spices that “amen”. Aviva finishes the afternoon with are sometimes added to the ceremony to a story from a children’s book, Let’s Say be passed around and inhaled. The spices Amen, by Tamara Ansh. “The children love represent the soul, and prayers are said these ceremonies,” says Rowe. with them to remember someone who has Back at the brachot party in Golders died, and our final return to the soul. Green, I looked on in amazement at Each woman must say the blessings everyone sincere in their prayers. It with kavanah, the Hebrew word for is clear that with all the gadgetry and intention and sincere feeling – the mindset gizmos of modern 21st century there is often cited by the Torah as necessary for still a lot of room for spirituality. These saying Jewish blessings and prayers. parties fulfill a need to find answers in Once each group has said a blessing an increasingly complex world. Who was it is followed by a loud ‘amen’ from the going to be bestowed with a miracle next?, gathering. Participants believe that it is I wondered. n the forceful repetition of ‘amen’ that is the connecting force between them. The Contact Esti Levi via text on 07957 628536. blessings last for about 20 minutes and Michelle Huberman is the creative director of are followed by a guest speaker – usually a Harif, the Association of Jews from the Middle East religious leader from the UK or Israel. and North Africa.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 51 HISTORY

SEPHARDI RENAISSANCE Who owns Jewish culture? The fate of ancient Jewish archives rescued from war-torn Iraq is at a crossroads. Lyn Julius reports on the fierce debate over the ownership of Jewish history

hey stole our lives, they stole basement of the building, containing tens reminder of Iraq’s former diversity. our childhood, they stole our of thousands of items including books, But over the past five years, the Iraqi “T memories. Our memories photographs and personal documents that Jewish community in exile has been waging lay in the flooded basement of Saddam’s activists say were looted or left behind by a bitter battle to recover the collection and Intelligence HQ. The government wants Jews forced to flee the country. prevent it being sent back to Iraq. They say to return to an Iraq without Jews what The Americans shipped the archive to that to return the archives would be like Saddam stole from the Jews of Iraq. Do you Washington DC for restoration and hastily returning property looted by the Nazis to want to insult us?” signed a diplomatic agreement promising Germany. Activists argue that the archives Writing in the online Arabic news to return the material to the Iraqi should be kept where they are accessible site Elaph in December 2013, David government. The US government spent to Iraqi Jews and their descendants, and Kheder Bassoon expressed the anger and over $3 million on restoring and digitising question whether Iraq would properly take frustration felt by Iraqi Jews living outside the archive, which has been exhibited care of the items, were they to be sent back. their country at the uncertain future of the across the country. The collection includes A similar fight is simmering for many Jewish archive – the enormous collection a Hebrew Bible with commentaries from Jews of Egyptian origin living abroad. of books, documents and photographs that 1568, a Babylonian Talmud from 1793 and Dozens of volumes, containing every detail document Jewish life in Iraq. This autumn an 1815 version of the Jewish mystical text of the births, marriages and deaths of Jews marks the deadline for the return of these Zohar – as well as more mundane objects, from Alexandria and Cairo, and dating materials to Baghdad, from where they such as a Baghdad telephone book. back to the middle of the 19th century, were were rescued by American troops in 2003 Although tens of thousands of Iraqi once kept in the two main synagogues in and taken to the US. documents were shipped to the US, the each city. But in 2016 government officials Under , thousands Iraqi government has only formalised arrived at the synagogues and took away of materials were seized from Jewish its claim to 2,700 books and 30,000 the registers, to be stored in the Egyptian homes, schools and synagogues. Much of documents of the water-stained archive, National Archives. it was locked away at the headquarters of which it claims are the country’s ‘precious The Egyptian government claims Iraq’s secret service in Baghdad. In 2003 cultural heritage’, a last emotional link that all Torah scrolls and Jewish archives, the archive was discovered in the flooded with its ancient Jewish community, and a libraries, communal registers and any

52 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 movable property over 100 years old ‘war booty’, are over. constitutes part of Egypt’s heritage. In the aftermath of extensive Egyptian Jews living abroad are looting after the invasion of Iraq, some frustrated that they cannot even obtain 3,800 archaeological artefacts have photocopies of brit mila (circumcision), been returned to Iraq from the US. marriage and death certificates from Recently eight Sumerian artefacts sold to these communal records. Such records the British Museum were sent back. But are often the only formal Jewish the Iraqi Jewish archive does not belong identification Egyptian Jews have to to some long-extinct civilisation: some prove lineage or identity for burial or of the owners are still alive. International marriage. Repeated efforts since 2005 to law is based on the assumption of intercede with the Egyptian authorities territorial sovereignty. It needs updating have come to nothing. In this case, to resolve the tug-of-war between the Egyptian government has been minority and national heritage, where supported by the tiny remnant of the the minority has been displaced. Almost Jewish community that remains in no Jews remain in Iraq. If the archive the country. The community’s leader, were to return, most Iraqi Jews – now in Magda Haroun, has made it clear in Israel – would not be able to visit it. Nor various TV appearances that her intention MOUs are based on a flawed could the authorities guarantee its safety. is to leave the community’s assets to the premise. It is the heritage of 850,000 Four US senators have tabled a bill government. Last year Haroun helped indigenous Jews who fled their homes and and three congressmen have written to revive a former Egyptian Jewish charity, property under duress,” says Sarah Levin President Trump “strongly objecting” to A Drop of Milk, turning it into a heritage of the California-based Jews Indigenous to the return of the material. As I write, a NGO with the aim of curating the Jewish the Middle East and North Africa (JIMENA). scholar in the US, who follows these issues SEPHARDI RENAISSANCE archive with the approval of the Ministry of It is understandable that the but has asked not to be named, has told Culture. There are plans to transform the international community should wish JR that the State Department has agreed former Heliopolis Synagogue in Cairo into to prevent the looting and smuggling of to renew permission for the exhibition of a national Jewish museum, with the hope ancient artefacts and their sale on the Iraqi Jewish documents to continue for that the archive’s registers will be available international art market. That is how another two years. “There are some (mostly for consultation there. Islamic State financed much of its conquest US Jewish groups) who want to keep the Most Egyptian Jews left the country of northern Iraq and Syria. archives in the US. They after 1948, 1956, or 1967. Half the expat Jewish artefacts purported “To return the have no plan on how to do community is in Israel, but there are to be from devastated archives would that. US museums might groups in France, Canada, the US, , sites, such as the Jobar be reluctant to accept Australia and the UK. synagogue near Damascus, be like returning them, because they would But for organisations fighting on have turned up in Turkey. property looted be permanent custodians. behalf of the rights of Jews from Arab These mostly turn out to Who owns the archives? countries, the Iraqi and Egyptian cases be fakes. In Syria, mindful by the Nazis to Technically, the Iraqi are symptomatic of a larger problem. of the interest in Middle Germany” government since it is Since 2004, the US has been bound by Eastern Jewish heritage state cultural property. law to impose import restrictions on in the West, both the regime and the The State Department has to figure out archaeological and ethnological material rebels have been using Jewish artefacts as how to handle keeping the archives in the that constitutes a country’s cultural a political football in the civil war. Reports US without contravening basic precepts of heritage, and has signed Memoranda of have surfaced – usually at times of regime international law,” the source said. Understanding (MOUs) to this effect with offensives – in which both parties accused The Jewish community may have to Egypt, Syria and Libya. An agreement with each other of stealing cultural heritage resort to the courts to assert its claims. Algeria is expected. In January 2018 the from Jewish sites. There has been one legal precedent for this: International Council of Museums released But there is a distinction between theft lawyer Nathan Lewin successfully sued for a ‘Red List’ for Yemen aimed at protecting for financial gain and legitimate salvage the restitution of the library belonging to Hebrew manuscripts and Torah finials of scrolls or books, taken by fleeing Jews to the fifth Lubavitcher Rebbe. Seized by the from leaving Yemen. All but 50 be used for prayer. In centuries Russians in 1917, it is now in New York. Jews have fled the country, taking past, armies had carte blanche However, the Jews fighting to stop what possessions they could, but to plunder enemy property. the return of their property to Iraq, or ultimately even these artefacts The ‘Monument Men’ were the release of blockaded property in Arab could be returned to Yemen. assigned by the Allies to hide states, can take comfort from Article 17 “These MOUs claim away cultural treasures in of the Universal of Human to be about looting, but occupied Europe during Rights. This states that no individual or their limited evidence of World War II to prevent community should be arbitrarily deprived success suggests their real them from falling into the of their property. As Sarah Levin of JIMENA impact is providing a legal wrong hands. Post-war puts it: “The US should not enter into any vehicle to legitimise foreign treaties, such as the Hague agreement and should withdraw from any confiscations and wrongful Convention of 1954, were existing agreement with a foreign state that ownership claims…The introduced to protect states’ condones, supports or promotes any Article cultural property from 17 violation by that state.” n From the Iraqi archives (clockwise): wartime looting. But the days a Viennese haggadah, circa 1930; when Britain could ship the Lyn Julius is the author of Uprooted: How 3,000 a letter to the Chief Rabbi of Baghdad from the British Military Elgin Marbles from Greece, years of Jewish Civilisation in the Arab world Governor, 1918; a Torah casing, or Napoleon could plunder vanished overnight, Vallentine Mitchell, 2017.

COURTESY OF THE US NATIONAL ARCHIVES OF THE US NATIONAL COURTESY 19th-20th century ancient Egyptian obelisks as See What’s Happening p54.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 53 WHAT’S HAPPENING

The Jewish Renaissance quarterly guide to the latest cultural events

HOW TO BE LISTED: Tuesday 23 October Brodzky, Jacob Kramer Email all events to listings@ Churchill and the Jews and Mane-Katz. All funds jewishrenaissance.org.uk The launch of Andrew go towards the Ben Uri and be sure to include the Roberts’ book, Churchill: Gallery’s exhibition and name of event, date(s), Walking with Destiny. wellbeing programmes. start time, entry fee, Richard Cohen will be there 10am-5.30pm (Mon-Tue), address, contact details to speak about it, as he was 11am-5pm (Sat & Sun). FREE. (for print) and a brief involved in the research and Ben Uri, NW8 0RH. 020 7604 description. Events proofing of the book. 3991. benuri.org.uk submission deadline for our 8.30pm. £3. Edgware United next issue is 3 December. Synagogue, HA8 8YE. myus. Thursday 15 November theus.org.uk Austerity Baby As we publish events for up A presentation by Janet Wolff to three months in advance, Tuesday 30 October about her recently published details may change, so Max Hastings: Vietnam – book, Austerity Baby. TOP please check with venues An Epic Tragedy, 1945- 6.30-8pm. FREE. Wiener before setting out. 1975 Library, WC1B 5DP. 020 7636 Additions to events and Jewish Book Week hosts 7247. wienerlibrary.co.uk PICKS amendments will be sent an evening with British to JR subscribers in our journalist, foreign Monday 19 November fortnightly newsletter. correspondent and former Poet in the City: Sam Sax THEATRE Tuesday 20 November – editor of the Evening See Top Picks for info (right). Saturday 9 February Standard, Sir Max Hastings. 7pm. £12.50, £9.50 concs. Caroline, Or Change BOOKS & 7pm. £16.50. Kings Place, Kings Place, N1 9AG. 020 An uplifting and moving portrait of the US at a POETRY N1 9AG. 020 7520 1490. 7520 1490. kingsplace.co.uk time of momentous social upheaval spurred by kingsplace.co.uk the civil rights movement. Caroline Thibodeaux Tuesday 16 October Tuesday 11 December is an African American maid in Louisiana, Freud’s Sculptor: The Life Wednesday 31 October Uprooted 1963, working for the Jewish Gellman family. and Works of Oscar Nemon Encounters with Albion Harif co-founder Lyn Eight-year-old Noah Gellman visits Caroline in WHAT’S HAPPENING WHAT’S Aurelia Young launches her Join Anthony Greville in Julius discusses her book, the basement as she washes and irons, but when new book Finding Nemon, celebrating the launch of Uprooted: How 3,000 he begins leaving loose change in his laundry, a biography about her his new book. Encounters Years of Jewish Civilisation his stepmother Rose devises a deterrent with father, the sculptor Oscar with Albion draws on a in the Arab World Vanished negative consequences. Nemon. In 1931, a Jewish boy wide range of cases to show Overnight. 7.30pm (Mon-Sat), 2.30pm (Thu & Sat only). From from Croatia persuaded a the ways in which Jewish Read our review of Uprooted £20. Playhouse Theatre, WC2N 5DE. 084 4871 reluctant Sigmund Freud refugees running from Hitler in the April 2018 issue of JR. 7631. carolineorchange.co.uk to sit for him in Vienna. perceived and depicted their Phone for times and prices. This young man was Oscar (often somewhat reluctant) B’nai B’rith, Edgware ART 19 October 2018 – 27 January 2019 Nemon and the bust he British hosts. Synagogue, HA8 8YE. 020 Artist Rooms: Anselm Kiefer made of Freud can be seen 6.30-8pm. FREE. Wiener 8958 7508. harif.org Tate takes over the Herbert with this Artist in the study at the Freud Library, WC1B 5DP. 020 7636 Rooms on German sculptor and painter Anselm Museum. 7247. wienerlibrary.co.uk COMEDY Kiefer. As one of Germany’s most significant 8.30pm. £9-£11. Freud post-war artists, Kiefer explores themes of Museum, NW3 5SX. 020 7435 Wednesday 7 November Wednesday 31 October national identity and collective memory in his 2002. freud.org.uk Michael Baum in New Jewish Comedian of work, often addressing the legacy of Germany Conversation the Year: Heat after World War II. Wednesday 17 October An evening with author Watch some of the UK’s Herbert Art Gallery and Museum, Coventry, CV1 5QP. Jews, Horns and the Devil Michael Baum about his new finest new Jewish comedians 024 7623 7521. theherbert.org Anton Felton launches his novel, Aaron’s Rod. compete for laughs. Acts will new book, Jews, Horns 7-10pm. £20. Westminster present their routines in the BOOKS & POETRY Monday 19 and the Devil. In it he Synagogue, SW7 1BX. events@ hope of bagging a place in November explores, via artworks and westminstersynagogue.org. the final. Poet in the City: Sam Sax cartoons, the myth of the westminstersynagogue.org 7.30pm. £5. JW3, NW3 6ET. Sam Sax is a queer Jewish poet and educator. antisemitic trope that Jews 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk In an engaging evening of discussion have horns. He’ll be joined Tuesday 13 – Sunday interspersed with live poetry, Sax brings his by Goldsmiths sociology 25 November Thursday 29 November diverse and inquisitive body of work to Kings professor David Hirsh, Art and Art Book Sale – Tuesday 4 December Place to question the complexities of mental who’ll look at contemporary Buy beautiful art books UK Jewish Comedy Festival health, queer preconceptions and stories of antisemitism in the UK. and artwork for reasonable Catch all the latest in Jewish the Jewish diaspora. 7.30pm. £10. Central prices. Those available comedy at this annual 7pm. £12.50, £9.50 concs. Kings Place, N1 9AG. Synagogue, W1W 6NW. 020 include works by and about festival. See stand-up, 020 7520 1490. kingsplace.co.uk 7794 4655. spiroark.org Sandra Blow, Horace sit-down, story-led, musical

54 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 EVENTS LONDON

humour and much more. Sunday 9 December the ages. Bringing together Featuring a World Tour of Chanukah Funukah responses to wars from Jewish Comedy via three A family extravaganza with the last 100 years, they’ll comics in one show (29 doughnuts, face painting, perform Crumb’s Black Nov) and jokes from a rabbi, crafts, music and a bouncy Angels, Brubeck’s Regret and imam and priest (2 Dec). castle. Schuloff’s String Quartet Times and prices vary. JW3, 2-4.30pm. £7 children, £3 No.1, amongst others. NW3 6ET. 020 7433 8988. adults, £16 family. JW3, 6.30pm. £39.50 – £19.50. jw3.org.uk NW3 6ET. 020 7433 8988. Kings Place, N1 9AG. 020 jw3.org.uk BOOK 7520 1490. kingsplace.co.uk Tuesday 4 December NOW! New Jewish Comedian FILM Wednesday 21 & of the Year: Final Thursday 22 November Simon Brodkin hosts this Sunday 4 November The Wolf of Baghdad finale of the battle of the Richmond Synagogue Film and 3yin comics competition to see Club: The Red Tent MUSIC BAHLA AND THE Musician/artist Carol which newbie will take A monthly film club in south JMI YOUTH BIG BAND Isaacs – aka The Surreal top spot. London. This screening McCoy – premieres her 7.30pm. £12. JW3, NW3 6ET. features Paula Weinstein Sunday 16 & Monday 17 December graphic memoir, The Wolf of 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk and Roger Young’s two-part Tzadik label jazz musician Sam Eastmond leads the JMI Baghdad. Images from the miniseries, which originally Youth Big Band, who fuse together music of Jewish origin and book will be projected, while FAMILY aired in 2014 and tells the cutting edge contemporary jazz sounds. They support Bahla, Isaacs performs alongside story of Dinah, the only a London outfit who draw on Jewish music traditions, from the band 3yin, a London WHAT’S HAPPENING Thursday 18 November daughter of Leah and Jacob. liturgical melodies to North African rhythms and Yiddish outfit that plays the music Mitzvah Day Places must be reserved songs, seamlessly combining intimate chamber group of Jewish communities in Volunteer for a variety of by emailing ivor.deitsch@ textures and contemporary jazz. the Middle East. After the great causes, including btconnect.com. 2.30pm. £9, £5 under-12s. Radlett Reform Synagogue, WD7 7AA Thursday performance, making welcome booklets 2.30pm. £5 donation. (16 Dec). 7pm. £9. JW3, NW3 6ET (17 Dec). the artists and musicians for refugees and baking Richmond Synagogue, TW9 will be speaking about the food for shelters for the 1AP. rjch.org.uk inspirations behind the homeless. MUSIC story of a young East End innovative new work based Times vary. FREE. JW3, Thursday 8 – Thursday Sunday 4 November & Jewish boy rising to success on their personal histories NW3 6ET. 020 7433 8988. 22 November Sunday 2 December through jazz. Featuring live and heritage. jw3.org.uk UK International Jewish Monthly Klezmer Jam jazz, narration and archive Read more about the Film Festival Session photos. performance in Sephardi Sunday 2 December The UKIJFF celebrates A free monthly jam 8pm. £20. JW3, NW3 6ET. Renaissance, p48. Imahot v’Avot Chanukah its 22nd anniversary this session led by a name 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk 7pm. £15. JW3, NW3 6ET. 020 An afternoon of music, craft year. Over the fortnight at the forefront of the 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk and soft play for under-8s they’ll be showcasing many contemporary klezmer Sunday 11 November with one or more parents world, European and UK scene, Ilana Cravitz. As well Rosamunde Trio Thursday 22 November who identify as LGBTQ+. premieres of new features, as gigging regularly with Martino Tirimo (piano), Memorial Concert for the For ages up to 8. documentaries and shorts. her band London Klezmer Ben Sayevich (violin) and 80th Anniversary of the 3-5pm. £5, children free. JW3, Read our reviews of some Quartet, Cravitz performs Daniel Veis (cello) present Kindertransport NW3 6ET. 020 7433 8988. of the festival highlights in with Freylekh Klezmer Dance a programme to mark the The Wiener Library presents jw3.org.uk Film, p32. Band, Klezmers Tsvey and Armistice centenary. They’ll a special memorial concert Times and prices vary. JW3, Hopkele Klezmer Keilidhs. be playing music that takes to mark 80 years since the K’mo B’bayit Chanukah NW3 6ET. 020 7433 8988. Join in or just watch; all listeners back to World War I, devastation of Kristallnacht An Israeli-themed get- ukjewishfilm.org abilities welcome. balanced with music of hope. and the Kindertransport together to celebrate 8-10.30pm. FREE. The Tirimo is joined by Atsuko rescue efforts that followed. Chanukah, with music, Sunday 2 December Harrison, WC1H 8JF. Kawakami to play Casella’s The evening begins with a candles and festivities. For Richmond Synagogue Film londonklezmerquartet.com Pages of War, a short but drinks reception at 7pm, ages 2-6. Club: Defiance dramatic work dating with special guests including 3-4.15pm. £5.50 children, A monthly film club in south Saturday 27 October from 1915. Plus pieces by Dame Esther Rantzen DBE. £2.50 adults, under-2s free. London. This screening Shlock Rock Shostakovich, Mendelssohn The concert consists of an JW3, NW3 6ET. 020 7433 features Edward Zwick’s An evening of music: and Boulanger. exclusive performance by 8988. jw3.org.uk 2008 action drama, parodies of old rock tunes, 6.30pm. £14.50, £9.50 concs. two acclaimed German about Jewish brothers in as well as new music by Kings Place, N1 9AG. 020 musicians who have come Monday 3 – Thursday Nazi-occupied Eastern Lenny Solomon. 7520 1490. kingsplace.co.uk especially for this occasion: 6 December Europe, who escape into the 8.15pm. £15, £10 children. cellist Friederike Fechner Chanukah Light Ups Belarussian forest and join Woodford Forest United Sunday 18 November and composer, conductor Four days of family-friendly Russian resistance fighters. Synagogue, E18 2QZ. myus. Brodsky Quartet and pianist Mathias crafts, music, candle- Places must be reserved theus.org.uk Daniel Rowland (violin), Ian Husmann. lighting, doughnuts and by emailing ivor.deitsch@ Belton (violin), Paul Cassidy Read more about the festivities. btconnect.com. Monday 5 November (viola) and Jacqueline concert in Music, p37. 4.30-5.30pm. FREE. JW3, 2.30pm. £5 donation. The Ronnie Scott’s Story Thomas (cello) pay tribute 7-9pm. £30. The Liberal Jewish NW3 6ET. 020 7433 8988. Richmond Synagogue, TW9 The Ronnie Scott’s Quintet to the human courage that’s Synagogue, NW8 7HA. 020

©MARC BRENNER; ©CHARLOTTE MAYHEW ©MARC BRENNER; ©CHARLOTTE jw3.org.uk 1AP. rjch.org.uk comes to JW3 to tell the inspired composers through 7636 7247. wienerlibrary.co.uk

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 55 EVENTS LONDON

Monday 3 December that took place there, Women of World Jewish Sunday 4 November Thursday 8 November Oi Va Voi administered lethal Relief David Hillman Stained Looking into the Abyss: Fronted by their new singer injections to prisoners The launch of Women of Glass Windows Photos of Kristallnacht Zohara Niddam, these and deliberately withheld World Jewish Relief, a bold Professor David Newman While there are hundreds major players in the Jewish medication. This talk looks initiative through which OBE presents this tour and of written reports on the music scene play to promote at who these women were the work of women in the lecture about the stained pogrom of November 1938 their new album. The septet and how they ended up UK will transform the lives glass windows created by in Nazi Germany, there are mix dynamic rhythms and working at a concentration of other women and girls David Hillman for many of only a few (mainly press) Western melodic sensibility camp. around the world. London’s synagogues. photographs in the archives with the folk music of their 2.30-3.30pm. FREE. Wiener 7-8pm. FREE. JW3, NW3 4pm. £10. Central Synagogue, of the Wiener Library. A Jewish and East European Library, WC1B 5DP. 020 7636 6ET. 020 7433 8988. W1W 6NW. spiroark.org closer look reveals that in heritage. 7247. wienerlibrary.co.uk worldjewishrelief.org nearly all the places where 7-11pm. £15. Islington Assembly Monday 5 November synagogues and shops were Hall, N1 2UD. jmi.org.uk Young World Jewish Relief: Zionism and Jewish UK Interfaith Summit plundered, photos were Real-Life Stories from Identity Coinciding with UK Interfaith taken. Some were made Wednesday 5 December Rwanda Jack Omer-Jackaman Week, this summit brings by press photographers, Dreams of a Nation Valentine Mukamuyenzi, delivers this talk for the together young people from passersby or by the A multimedia musical the director of the Streets Institute of Jewish Studies. diverse communities to perpetrators – a few others extravaganza starring Ahead Children’s Centre 6.30pm. FREE. Roberts connect with others. Along even by Jews. In this talk, Chazzan Jonny Turgel. Association, reveals all the Building, UCL, WC1E 7JE. with workshops, panel Christoph Kreutzmueller 7.30pm. £15. Edgware United work her organisation has ucl.ac.uk/ijs discussions, talks and an will discuss these Synagogue, HA8 8YE. myus. been doing with World exhibition, there will be a photographs as historical theus.org.uk Jewish Relief in Rwanda. Monday 22 October festive space for sharing food, sources and analyse 7-9pm. FREE. Airspace, W1D Roundtable: 100,000 music and conversation. The different scenes, motifs, Sunday 9 December 2DR. worldjewishrelief.org Lost – Child Victims of theme of this year’s Summit postures and perspectives Handel’s Judas the Holocaust in Hungary will be Intersectionality, revealed in them. Maccabaeus Wednesday 17 October Tim Cole, Dan Stone and Identity and Race. 6.30-8pm. FREE. Wiener Alyth Choral Society Digging for Victory: Gábor Kádár appear on 3.30-9pm. £5-£9. Amnesty Library, WC1B 5DP. 020 7636 performs the oratorio with a Refugees in the Pioneer the panel for this discussion International UK, Human 7247. wienerlibrary.co.uk full orchestra and soloists. Corps in WWII about the Hungarian Rights Action Centre, EC2A 7pm. £18, under-16s free. Helen Fry has researched victims of the Holocaust. 3EA. faithbeliefforum.org Sunday 11 November Alyth Synagogue, NW11 7EN. and published widely on the 6-8pm. FREE. Wiener Library, 100 Years Since the End alythchoralsociety.org 10,000 Jewish refugees who WC1B 5DP. 020 7636 7247. Tuesday 6 November of the Great War fought for Britain during the wienerlibrary.co.uk Austria is Lost: British A lecture by Sir Lawrence WHAT’S HAPPENING WHAT’S Sunday 16 December war. These included 6,000 and Austrian Diplomats Freedman, emeritus Bahla and the JMI Youth who started out in the ‘alien’ Monday 29 October and their Experience of professor of war studies at Big Band Pioneer Corps, many having Yitzhak Rabin Memorial Anschluss King’s College London. See Book Now for info, p55. enlisted from internment. Ceremony A look at the months of 8pm. FREE. Highgate United 2.30pm. £9, £5 under-12s. Many went on to see active An evening to remember heightening German Nazi Synagogue, N6 4BJ. 020 Radlett Reform Synagogue, service in wartime and the former Israeli prime antagonism and increasing 8340 7655 . myus.theus. WD7 7AA. 019 2385 6110. made an extraordinary minister Yitzhak Rabin, Austrian isolation prior org.uk radlettreform.org.uk contribution to the defeat who was assassinated 23 to Anschluss. Particularly of National Socialism. Fry years ago. through the eyes of British Global Day of Jewish Monday 17 December expands on their largely 6.30-8pm. FREE. JW3, and Austrian diplomats Living Bahla and the JMI Youth forgotten legacy. NW3 6ET. 020 7433 8988. stationed in Vienna and Discussions on the journeys Big Band 6-8.30pm. £5. Wiener Library, jw3.org.uk London respectively. that matter most to us, See Book Now for info, p55. WC1B 5DP. 020 7636 7247. 3-4pm. FREE. Wiener Library, from ancient adventures The Alyth Youth Singers wienerlibrary.co.uk Thursday 1 November WC1B 5DP. wienerlibrary.co.uk to the modern diaspora; will be opening the concert Medical Globetrotters and spiritual to physical; and with a short programme of Thursday 18 October Persevering Women from Secret Listeners of Trent individual to the collective Chanukah songs. Curator’s Talk: Shattered – Galicia Park Jewish people. 7pm. £9. JW3, NW3 6ET. 020 Pogrom, November 1938 Over centuries, Jewish Helen Fry delivers this talk for 3-5pm. £15, £12 adv. JW3, 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk The Wiener Library’s medical practitioners faced the Herts & Middx branch of NW3 6ET. 020 7433 8988. curators discuss their new contrasting attitudes of the Jewish Historical Society jw3.org.uk TALKS exhibition, Shattered, about their brethren or society of . Kristallnacht. The collection at large: from admiration 8pm. £3. Allum Lane Monday 12 November Tuesday 16 October features eyewitness accounts to suspicion. In this talk Community Centre, Elstree, Crohn’s and Colitis in the The Female Doctors and and previously unseen by Andrew Zalewski, WD6 3PJ. jhse.org Jewish Community Nurses of Ravensbruck documents from the library’s he’ll reveal surprising Dr Steven Mann talks about Concentration Camp collection to illustrate details about these Wednesday 7 November how he supports those During the Third Reich, a German and Austrian Jews’ Jewish globetrotters and A Celebration of Ludwik living with these conditions handful of female doctors desperate attempts to flee intellectual rebels brought Zamenhof and innovative new and nurses worked at – in many cases arriving as to light through newly Pay tribute to the Polish treatments. Ravensbrück concentration refugees in Britain. uncovered records. Jewish linguist and creator of 7-9pm. Phone for prices. camp in Germany. Some 6-8.30pm. FREE. Wiener 6.30-8pm. FREE. Wiener Esperanto. Michael Sobell JCC, NW11 of these women assisted Library, WC1B 5DP. 020 7636 Library, WC1B 5DP. 020 7636 7.30pm. £15, £12 adv. JW3, 9DQ. 020 8922 2900. in the human experiments 7247. wienerlibrary.co.uk 7247. wienerlibrary.co.uk NW3 6ET. jw3.org.uk jewishcare.org

56 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 EVENTS LONDON

Food and Alcohol in Wednesday 21 November and The New World Order Iron-Age Israel and Early Post-War Holocaust explores how the abuse of Judah: Archaeological Knowledge and Jewish power is legitimised in the Perspectives Missing Persons name of democracy. The A talk by Dr Rebekah Jan Lambertz delivers a suppression of ideas and Welton for the Anglo-Israel talk about Jewish missing threat of non-conformity Archaeological Society. person reports filed in the is explored in Mountain 6pm. FREE. Institute of early years of World War Language and Ashes to Archaeology, WC1H OPY. 020 II, revealing how little Ashes paints a disturbing 8349 5754. aias.org.uk was understood about the BOOK portrait of man’s obsession Nazi camps. NOW! with dominance. Read more Kristallnacht: Thoughts for 3-4pm. FREE. Wiener Library, about Pinter at the Pinter in the Future WC1B 5DP. wienerlibrary.co.uk the July 2018 issue of JR. Anita Lasker-Wallfisch 7.30pm (Tue, Fri & Sat), and Niklas Frank explore Nietzsche, Soloveitchik 2.30pm (Thu only). £15- their memories of the past and Contemporary Jewish THEATRE FIDDLER ON £65. Harold Pinter Theatre, and hopes for the future. Philosophy THE ROOF SW1Y 4DN. 084 5871 Lasker-Wallfisch, one of the A presentation by Rabbi Dr 7615. pinteratthepinter.com founding members of the Michael Harris. Friday 23 November 2018 – Saturday English Chamber Orchestra, 8-9.30pm. £20, £16 adv. JW3, 9 March 2019 Until Saturday survived Auschwitz as a NW3 6ET. jw3.org.uk The presents Andy Nyman as 22 December member of the women’s Tevye in its major revival of one of the world’s most beloved Company orchestra and Frank’s father Wednesday 21 & musicals, . This is a new staging by Trevor and WHAT’S HAPPENING was governor of Nazi- Thursday 22 November Nunn of the classic story of the travails of Tevye the milkman, George Furth’s legendary occupied Poland. The Origins of The Wiener his wife and five daughters. The renowned soundtrack Broadway musical comedy 7.30pm. £15, £12 adv. JW3, Library includes ‘Sunrise, Sunset’, ‘If I Were a Rich Man’ and about life, love and marriage NW3 6ET. 020 7433 8988. Find out about the origins ‘Matchmaker, Matchmaker’. gets a refreshing rework by jw3.org.uk of The Wiener Library, the 8pm (Tue-Sat), 3.30pm (Sat & Sun). £45-£49.50, £39.50 concs. Elliott & Harper Productions, world’s oldest archive of Menier Chocolate Factory, SE1 1RU. menierchocolatefactory.com directed by Marianne Elliott. Tuesday 13 November material on the Nazi era The lead role of Bobby has Touring Ethiopia and the Holocaust. been reimagined as Bobbi, a Sybil Sheridan introduces Featuring a talk and tour. as they reveal the amazing Osborn and Asia Gefter lead 35-year-old woman whose the JR tours she will lead to Phone for times and prices. family stories that have this discussion. family and friends can’t Ethiopia in February and Wiener Library, WC1B been uncovered. 7.30pm. £15, £12 adv. JW3, understand why she’s still November 2019. 5DP. 020 7636 7247. 8pm. Donation on entry. NW3 6ET. 020 7433 8988. single. Featuring Sondheim’s 6pm. FREE. Edgware wienerlibrary.co.uk Edgware and Hendon Reform jw3.org.uk iconic songs, ‘The Ladies venue, contact tours@ Synagogue, HA8 8AB. Who Lunch’, ‘Being Alive’, jewishrenaissance.org. Tuesday 27 November worldjewishrelief.org THEATRE and ‘Side by Side’. uk for address details. Satire 7.30pm (Mon-Sat), 2.30pm jewishrenaissance.org.uk In the run-up to the UK Tuesday 11 December Until Saturday (Thu & Sat only). £79.50- Jewish Comedy Festival, The First Crusade: The 20 October £124.50. Gielgud Theatre, Thursday 15 November two speakers discuss the Role of the Christian The Lover / The Collection W1D 6AR. delfontmackintosh. Back to the Future: 125th art of satire. Featuring Church To mark the 10th anniversary co.uk/theatres/gielgud-theatre Anniversary Event Jewish activist Joseph Finlay A talk by Malcolm Billings of Harold Pinter’s death, The Institute of Jewish and illustrator/journalist for the Anglo-Israel the theatre that bears his Thursday 18 October Studies celebrates its 125th Martin Rowson. Archaeological Society. name is hosting a season of The Prince of West End anniversary with an evening 8pm. £10. JW3, NW3 6ET. 6pm. FREE. Institute of his one-act plays. The Lover Avenue of discussion. Featuring 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk Archaeology, WC1H OPY. features a conventional The octogenarian the president’s address 020 8349 5754. aias.org.uk couple in unconventional residents of a New York entitled A Plea for Anglo- Tuesday 4 December circumstances, while The City retirement home Jewish History. 80 Years Since the First Thursday 13 December Collection delves into the are rehearsing a kosher 6.30pm. FREE. UCL, WC1E Kindertransport Train What Was it Like to Be a mystery of two London production of Hamlet, when 6BT. jhse.org Rebecca Singer, head Jewish Immigrant Nurse in couples linked by desire and their leading man drops of communications and Britain? a quest for supremacy. Jamie dead. Otto Korner seizes his Sunday 18 November community at World Jewish Dr Jane Brooks from the Lloyd directs. Read more chance to play the prince Who Helped Jewish Relief, talks about the University of Manchester about Pinter at the Pinter in as his hidden past quickly Refugees Resettle? Kindertransport. visits UCL to deliver this the July 2018 issue of JR. comes to the fore. Adapted A talk by Liran Morav 8pm. FREE. Highgate United talk for the Institute of 7.30pm, 2.30pm (Sat only & 9 from Alan Isler’s novel. on the essential role Synagogue, N6 4BJ. myus. Jewish Studies. Oct). £15-£65. Harold Pinter 7.30pm. £8. JW3, NW3 6ET. played by organisations theus.org.uk 7pm. FREE. UCL, WC1E 6BT. Theatre, SW1Y 4DN. 084 5871 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk and governments in the jhse.org 7615. pinteratthepinter.com integration of Jews from Discover Your Family Monday 22 – Wednesday Arab countries in France History Tuesday 18 December One for the Road / The New 24 October and the UK. Hear more about the Holocaust and Lost World Order / Mountain Medusa 7.30pm. £10. Central fascinating archives Cultural and Urban Spaces Language / Ashes to Ashes A 20th-anniversary dance Synagogue, W1W 6NW. 020 compiled by the World in Modern Ukraine One for The Road is about a piece from the Jasmin 7794 4655. spiroark.org Jewish Relief organisation, Iryna Staravoyt, Maria ruthless government official Vardimon Company.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 57 EVENTS LONDON

Created on the coast of culminates with Irwin Israeli Arabs, Same Colour show Liza Sings Streisand. Thursday 20 December Barcelona and inspired Shaw’s 1936 expressionist Tears explores the challenges Weaving together history, 2018 – Saturday by its marine life, Medusa anti-war masterpiece. Bury of living life on both sides of humour and harmonies, 26 January 2019 examines the gendered the Dead follows six dead the conflict and the need for Pulman celebrates the Party Time / Celebration historical significance of soldiers, who refuse to lay dialogue across borders. songs of the great vocalist An amusing attack on the the myth, the symbolism down and die. The military 7.30pm. £15, £12 concs, £10 Barbra Streisand with her narcissistic super-rich. This of Medusa and the are at a loss of what to do. under-30s. The Bunker, SE1 six-piece band, the Stardust is paired with Pinter’s final philosophical idea of The captains and generals 1RU. samecolourtears.com Ensemble. Featuring much- play, Celebration, a comedy ‘reflection’. attempt to persuade the loved classics, including about the vulgarity and 7.30pm. £12-£32. men to be buried quietly, but Thursday 1 November – ‘Evergreen’, ‘The Way We materialism of the nouveau Sadler’s Wells, EC1R 4TN. quickly discover it’s difficult Saturday 8 December Were’ and ‘New York State riche. Read more about jasminvardimon.com to negotiate with men who An Evening of Cabaret of Mind’. Pinter at the Pinter in the July have nothing left to lose. Two Jewish drag shows 7.30pm. £22. JW3, NW3 6ET. 2018 issue of JR. Thursday 25 October – 7.30pm (Tue-Sat), 3pm (Sat & in one night: Chanukah 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk 7.30pm, 2.30pm (Thu only, Saturday 8 December Sun only). £18-£20, £16-£18 Lewinsky (7.30pm) and The plus 27 & 31 Dec). £15- Landscape / A Kind of concs. Finborough Theatre, Chronicles of Electra (9pm). Tuesday 20 November – £65. Harold Pinter Theatre, Alaska SW10 9ED. 012 2335 7851. First up, Chanukah Lewinsky Saturday 9 February SW1Y 4DN. 084 5871 Jamie Lloyd directs these finboroughtheatre.co.uk travels west from Grodno for Caroline, Or Change 7615. pinteratthepinter.com two spellbinding evocations an hour of live art and poetry See Top Picks for info, p54. of loneliness, isolation and Tuesday 30 October – in a certain blue dress… Read our review of Caroline, WALKS the strange mists of time. Sunday 25 November Then, in a heartwarming Or Change on the JR blog. In Landscape, a woman is Sholem Aleichem in the tale, Electra Cute struggles 7.30pm (Mon-Sat), 2.30pm Tuesday 16 October locked in a beautiful memory Old Country to tell her queer friends she’s (Thu & Sat only). From Bagels to Brady Street and her husband demands South African performer Jewish and her Jewish friends £20. Playhouse Theatre, Explore east of Brick Lane to be heard, while A Kind Saul Reichlin’s one-man that she’s queer. WC2N 5DE. 084 4871 with Blue Badge guide of Alaska follows Deborah, show based on the short 7.30pm & 9pm. £12, £20 (both 7631. carolineorchange.co.uk Rachel Kolsky. Learn about who awakes from a 29-year stories of Sholem Aleichem, shows). JW3, NW3 6ET. 020 the synagogues, maternity sleep and is suspended leading Yiddish author 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk Friday 23 November home, closed cemetery and between the conscious and and playwright. 2018 – Saturday Hughes Mansions. unconscious worlds. Cast 8pm (Tue-Sat), 1pm & 5pm Moonlight / Night School 9 March 2019 10.30am. £15. JW3, NW3 6ET. includes Tamsin Greig. (Sun). £14, £12 cocns. The Lyndsey Turner and Ed Fiddler On the Roof 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk Read more about Pinter at Lion and Unicorn, NW5 2ED. Stambollouian direct these See Book Now for info, p57. the Pinter in the July 2018 lionandunicorntheatre.co.uk shorts, respectively, for the 8pm (Tue-Sat), 3.30pm Tuesday 23 October issue of JR. Pinter at the Pinter season. (Sat & Sun). £45-£49.50, and Whitechapel WHAT’S HAPPENING WHAT’S 7.30pm (Mon, Wed & Fri), Tuesday 30 October – The brutality of family £39.50 concs. Menier Stephen Burstin leads 2.30pm (Sat only). £15- Saturday 3 November life and the subjectivity of Chocolate Factory, SE1 walkers around east £65. Harold Pinter Theatre, Same Colour Tears memory are explored in the 1RU. 020 7378 1713. London, discovering SW1Y 4DN. 084 5871 Salaam Shalom, a media emotionally raw but funny menierchocolatefactory.com a Jewish cemetery, the 7615. pinteratthepinter.com and arts organisation, Moonlight. In Night School potato pub and a tiny invite you to leave your a 1960s East End criminal Thursday 13 December synagogue. Tuesday 30 October – preconceptions at the returns home from prison 2018 – Saturday 10.30am. £15. JW3, NW3 6ET. Saturday 24 November door and open your eyes, to find his room has been 26 January 2019 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk Bury the Dead ears and heart. Using occupied by a mysterious The Room / Family Voices / The Finborough’s recorded testimonies from woman with a secret. Victoria Station Wednesday 14 November GREATWAR100 series Palestinians, Israeli Jews and Read more about Pinter at Patrick Marber directs Old Jewish Quarter the Pinter in the July 2018 Harold Pinter’s first play, Discover the history of the issue of JR. The Room. An all-too- Jewish community with 7.30pm (Tue, Fri & Sat), familiar and frighteningly a visit to the magnificent ARE YOU ORGANISING A RAFFLE 2.30pm Thu only). £15- topical brand of English Bevis Marks Synagogue (£4 FOR YOUR SYNAGOGUE OR CHARITY? £65. Harold Pinter Theatre, xenophobia runs through extra for entry). Plus, see SW1Y 4DN. 084 5871 7615. this darkly funny and the Jewish soup kitchen and Jewish Jewish Jewish Jewish Jewish RENAISSANCERENAISSANCE RENAISSANCE RENAISSANCE RENAISSANCE A FRESH PERSPECTIVE ON JEWISH CULTURE pinteratthepinter.com A FRESH PERSPECTIVE ON JEWISH CULTURE unexpectedly odd play the first Yiddish theatre. A FRESH PERSPECTIVE ON JEWISH CULTURE A FRESH PERSPECTIVE ON JEWISH CULTURE SPONSORED BY DANGOOR EDUCATION JULY 2018 £7.25 JULY 2016 £7.25 SPONSORED BY DANGOOR EDUCATION A FRESH PERSPECTIVE ON JEWISH CULTUREAPRIL 2018 £7.25 SPONSORED BY DANGOOR EDUCATION SPONSORED BY DANGOOR EDUCATION JULY 2017 £7.25 SPONSORED BY DANGOOR EDUCATION SALONICA OCTOBER 2017 £7.25 from 1957. In the humorous 10.15am. £15. JW3, NW3 6ET. PLUS SephardiTEARING UP AND PLACES RENAISSANCE THE RULES OUR NEW SECTION Tuesday 6 November Victoria Station and the 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk VIENNA’S CULTURE REVOLUTION HAVEN IN THE FENS ROCK ANDHUNGARY CAMBRIDGETO GIBRALTAR’S JEWS KinderSang reflective Family Voices, ROLL FACE THE FUTURE FIGHTING FOR FREEDOM

FREDERIC RAPHAEL, ELAINE FEINSTEIN, PHILOSOPHERS, SCIENTISTS, IN BETWEEN ACTIVISTS & STUDENT LEADERS A newly composed isolated voices struggle Tuesday 20 November

GEORGE SZIRTES JOSEPH KERTES ESZTER SUS Á N ON THE PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE OF ATHENS HUNGARY’S JEWS music theatre piece to communicate. Cast Hackney Downs to the RADICALSIS THERE AND LIFE KOOKS AFTER ROTH? AMOS OZ MOROCCOHOFESH MEETS VENEZUELA SHECHTER THE SIX DAY WAR JEWISH PIRATES DYEING THE KNOT The future of Jewish fiction Peace is still possible The restaurantNo boycott that’s atdefying the Wells the crisis GENDER BENDERS ItsNICHOLAS impact in Arab HYTNER lands SYNAGOGUES OF MOSUL MY INVISIBLE CULTURE MYRevenge TEENAGE on the high HERO seas Streisand and other 60s upstarts The artists who dared to be different Mike Leigh on Arnold Wesker The new henna wedding parties A new vision for UK theatre Where Jews and Muslims once prayed NAOMI GAMES THE GOLEM IN ICELAND Roxana Jebreel’s Sephardi manifesto The émigré design revolution Ancient myths retold to commemorate the includes Jane Horrocks, Lowlife: Literary Hackney anniversary of the Emma Naomi and Nicholas Celebrate the literary JR WILL BE PLEASED TO ADD TO Kindertransport. Woodeson. Read more heritage of Hackney on this THE PRIZES BY DONATING A YEAR’S 7.30pm. £12. JW3, NW3 6ET. about Pinter at the Pinter in tour with Blue Badge guide SUBSCRIPTION TO THE MAGAZINE 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk the July 2018 issue of JR. Rachel Kolsky. Learn about EMAIL SUBSCRIPTIONS@ 7.30pm, 2.30pm (Sat only; Jewish writers, including Thursday 8 November plus 27 Dec & 4 Jan). £15- Grace Aguilar, Pinter, JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK Liza Sings Streisand £65. Harold Pinter Theatre, Baron and Camberton. Liza Pulman, the acclaimed SW1Y 4DN. 084 5871 10.30am. £15. JW3, NW3 6ET. singer returns with her latest 7615. pinteratthepinter.com 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk

58 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 EVENTS LONDON

Sunday 25 November has edited various works by Until Thursday Until Wednesday 19 Liberal Jewish Synagogue, The V&A with a Jewish Jewish authors, poets and 13 December December Norbert Meyn returns with Twist: Highlights and Yiddish filmmakers. Modern Jewish Literature Mixed Voices Choir Cathy Heller Jones and Sacred Silver 7.30-9.30pm. £160 (whole 10 with Aviva Dautch A Wednesday choir rehearsal fellow musicians for a short This tour of the Victoria weeks). JW3, NW3 6ET. 020 Explore the richness of of Jewish and Israeli music. study course. Explore the & Albert Museum profiles 7433 8988. www.jw3.org.uk modern Jewish literature Open to all who can sing in role of Jewish cultural figures the building’s fascinating by reading Israeli, pitch, Jewish or otherwise. in the evolution of classical history and architecture Until Tuesday European and American Contact to confirm the class song (plus piano). They will before focusing on 11 December books and discussing them is on before attending. also discuss how Jewish and highlights with a Jewish Modern Jewish History every Thursday. Featuring 7-9pm. First two classes free, other émigré musicians from association. Featuring Trudy Gold leads this Nicole Krauss’s Forest after that £tbc depending on Nazi Europe helped to make pieces from the Gilbert weekly Tuesday course Dark, Ruth Giligan’s Nine numbers. Wimbledon (address it more popular in Britain. Collection and Montefiore about the extraordinary Folds Make a Paper Swan revealed upon contact). This event is part of B’nai Endowment, the ceramics changes to the history of and Moshe Sakal’s The [email protected] B’rith UK’s Heritage Days. of de Waal and Rie, sacred the Jewish people over the Diamond Setter. 8-9.30pm. £10 per session, silver and Benney bark. past 200 years. 10.30am-12.30pm. £20, £160 Wednesday 24 October, £40 whole series. Liberal Jewish 11am-1pm. £15. Jewish Museum, 10.30am-12.30pm. £20, £160 (whole 10 weeks). JW3, NW3 Wednesday 21 November, Synagogue, NW8 7HA. 020 NW1 7NB. 020 7284 7384. (whole 10 weeks). JW3, NW3 6ET. jw3.org.uk Wednesday 5 December 7286 5181. ljs.org jewishmuseum.org.uk 6ET. jw3.org.uk for Hunger Until Tuesday Bake challah for the Saturday 24 November WORKSHOPS Until Wednesday 18 December homeless. Where is Home? 12 December The Art of Hebrew 6-9pm. FREE. JW3, NW3 6ET. A cartoon workshop led by

Monday 8 October – Trials: The Great Court Calligraphy 020 7433 8988. jw3.org.uk The Surreal McCoy (New WHAT’S HAPPENING Monday 10 December Cases of Jewish History A weekly workshop, Yorker, Spectator) and Banx Creative Writing with Trudy Gold leads this weekly running every Tuesday, in Tuesday 6, Tuesday 13, (FT, Private Eye). Sylvia Paskin Wednesday course about the art of Hebrew lettering. Tuesday 20 & Tuesday Read our interview with Poetry, fiction, plays and the little-known areas of Participants will work in ink, 27 November Carol Isaacs in Sephardi memoir writing workshop Jewish history. pencil, paint and gold leaf. A Study Course with Renaissance, p48. taking place every Monday. 10.30am-12.30pm. £20, £160 12.15-2.15pm. £20, £180 Norbert Meyn Phone for times. FREE. Charing Sylvia Paskin is an author, (whole 10 weeks). JW3, NW3 (whole 10 weeks). JW3, NW3 After two successful concerts Cross Library, WC2H 0HF. editor and lecturer, who 6ET. jw3.org.uk 6ET. jw3.org.uk with Ensemble Émigré at the 020 7641 6200.

“Echoes of the Soul is a treasure trove of music by Julian Dawes, one of the most significant composers working in the field of Jewish art music.

Combinations of mezzo-soprano, tenor and baritone with piano; children’s voices with piano; flute with piano and unaccompanied chorus, range from poignant and tragic to joyful and humorous.

This is a gem that deserves a place in the collection of every aficionado of Jewish music.”

– Alex Knapp

PURCHASE CD OR DOWNLOAD ON: WWW.STORE.CDBABY.COM/CD/JULIANDAWES

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 59 EVENTS NATIONAL

BRISTOL THEATRE FILM THEATRE Stock in Theatre, pXX and BOOKS & POETRY Monday 5 – Saturday Tuesday 6 November Sunday 21 October listen to our interview with Tuesday 13 November 10 November Menorah Film Club: Contagion Hannah Moscovitch on Belonging and Belongings: Same Colour Tears Somewhere in Europe A contemporary dance piece JR OutLoud. Jewish Poetry in the UK See London listing for info, A monthly movie get- that commemorates the 8pm. £15.50-£21.50. The See highlight box for info p58. together that’s open 1918 Spanish Flu pandemic, Lowry, Salford, M50 3AZ. (below). 7.30pm. £10, £8 concs, £5 to all (aged 18+). This which killed more people 084 3208 6010. oldstocktour. 7.30pm. £6, £4 concs. Redland under-30s. The Loco Klub, month they’re screening than World War I itself. The co.uk/tour.html Green Bowling Club, Bristol, Bristol, BS1 6QH. 011 7941 Somewhere in Europe, Géza striking work of Austrian BS6 7HE. davarbristol.co.uk 3857. samecolourtears.com Radványi’s 1948 drama artist Egon Schiele, who fell WALKS about a band of wartime victim to the Spanish Flu, Sunday 21 October FILM CAMBRIDGESHIRE runaways in Hungary, who forms a visual footnote. Heritage Walk: Jewish Wednesday 31 October BOOKS & POETRY scour the countryside in 12pm & 2.30pm. FREE. Manchester Menashe Thursday 1 November search of food and shelter. Imperial War Museum North, In the 19th century A Yiddish-language Churchill History Lecture 7.45pm. £45 membership. Manchester, M17 1TZ. 016 Manchester’s Jewish portrayal of Orthodox life Series: Churchill’s sculptor , 1836 4000. iwm.org.uk community settled in areas in Brooklyn. When sales Aurelia Young launches her Manchester, M22 4RZ. close to Victoria Station. assistant Menashe’s wife new book Finding Nemon, a menorah.org.uk/film-club Tuesday 30 & Starting at the museum, dies, he tries to follow the biography about her father, Wednesday 31 October guides will take walkers rabbi’s decree, obliging the sculptor Oscar Nemon. Saturday 10 – Thursday Old Stock: A Refugee around the streets where him to remarry and get Churchill and Nemon spent 22 November Love Story evidence of these first Jews custody of his son. A series a lot of time together, during UK International Jewish A dark folktale featuring still exists. of unsuccessful dates leaves which Churchill made a bust Film Festival klezmer performed by Ben 1-3pm. £7. Manchester him torn between his faith of Nemon. In this illustrated See London listing for info, Caplan. Old Stock is based Jewish Museum, M8 and community, and his love talk Young will describe how p55, and read our reviews on the true story of writer 8LW. 084 3208 0500. for his child. her father travelled across of some of the festival Hannah Moscovitch’s great- manchesterjewishmuseum.com 8pm. £5.25, £4.25 concs, Europe to seek refuge in the highlights in Film, p32. grandparents, two Jewish £3.50 students. Orpheus UK before the outbreak of Times, prices and venues vary. Romanian refugees who HAMPSHIRE Cinema, Bristol, BS9 4HN. World War II.. http://ukjewishfilm.org fled to Canada in 1908. THEATRE 011 7962 5852. scottcinemas. 5.30pm. FREE. Churchill Read more about Old Friday 9 & Saturday co.uk College, Cambridge, CB3 0DS. Tuesday 4 December 10 November 012 2333 6166. chu.cam.ac.uk Menorah Film Club: SHOW Wednesday Israel’s Hofesh Shechter 28 November FAMILY Ayelet Menahemi’s comedy Company presents its WHAT’S HAPPENING WHAT’S A Bag of Marbles Sunday 4 November about a Chinese flight apprentice company, Canadian director Christian Limmud Cambridge attendant working in Shechter II, for dancers Duguay explores the horrors See Book Now for info, p61. Israel. When she’s suddenly aged 18-25. SHOW is a of World War II from the See website for times. £40, deported for overstaying her playful performance in perspective of two young £20 children. Hills Road Sixth work visa, she struggles, with three acts that revolves Jewish boys living in Nazi- Form College, Cambridge, CB2 no Hebrew language skills, BOOKS & around anarchic artists in occupied France. Based on 8PE. limmud.org to explain she has a child a macabre circus of the acclaimed memoirs of the with her who goes by the POETRY comedy, murder and desire. same name by Joseph Joffo. GREATER nickname Noodle. BELONGING Read our review of SHOW 8pm. £5.25, £4.25 concs, MANCHESTER 7.45pm. £45 membership. on the JR blog. £3.50 students. Orpheus BOOKS & POETRY Menorah Synagogue, AND 7.30pm. £10-£27. NST City, Cinema, Bristol, BS9 4HN. Monday 19 November Manchester, M22 4RZ. BELONGINGS , SO17 1TR. 023 scottcinemas.co.uk M@M Book Club menorah.org.uk/film-club 8067 1771. hofesh.co.uk Menorah Synagogue’s Tuesday 13 November TALKS monthly book club. This MUSIC What does it mean to be a MERSEYSIDE Tuesday 11 December month’s title for discussion Thursday 1 November Jewish poet? Can a non Jew MUSIC The : Past, Present has yet to be decided – phone Opera Appreciation with like Micheal O’Siadhail write Sunday 28 October and Future for info nearer the time. Joyce Kennedy about the Holocaust? What Songs of Leonard Cohen If and cream 2.30pm. FREE. Menorah L’Incoronazione di Poppea part do journals like Jewish Performance by Keith James. cheese bring just one thing Synagogue, Manchester, by Monteverdi. Renaissance and the Jewish 7.30pm. £15. Princes Road to mind, then you’re part of M22 4RZ. 016 1428 7746. 1.45pm. £5 donation. Menorah Quarterly play in keeping alive Synagogue, , L8 1TG. a fascinating edible history menorah.org.uk Synagogue, Manchester, M22 the identity of Jewish poets 015 1709 3431. princesroad.org that has brought the roll with 4RZ. menorah.org.uk and poetry? How important a hole from 17th-century Monday 17 December are Jewish poets like Aviva MIDLANDS Poland to the freezers of the M@M Book Club Thursday 6 December Dautch, who works with FAMILY modern Anglo-American This month’s title for Opera Appreciation with refugees encouraging them Sunday 23 – Thursday home. This talk by Clarissa discussion has yet to be Joyce Kennedy to write poetry? JR’s poetry 27 December Hyman will give a cultural decided – phone for info Cavalleria Rusticana by editor Liz Cashdan (pictured) Limmud Festival overview of this modest nearer the time. Mascagni and Pagliacci by tackles these big questions. See Book Now for info, p61. circular bread. 2.30pm. FREE. Menorah Leoncavallo. 7.30pm. £6, £4 concs. Redland Phone for times and prices. 7.30pm. £6, £4 concs. Redland Synagogue, Manchester, 1.45pm. £5 donation. Menorah Green Bowling Club, Bristol, BS6 Hilton Birmingham Metropole, Green Bowling Club, Bristol, M22 4RZ. 016 1428 7746. Synagogue, Manchester, M22 7HE. davarbristol.co.uk B40 1PP. 020 3115 1620. BS6 7HE. davarbristol.co.uk menorah.org.uk 4RZ. menorah.org.uk limmud.org

60 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 EVENTS NATIONAL

TALKS MUSIC on most Tuesdays. Phone Sunday 11 November Wednesday 7 November to confirm the class is on Birmingham Jewish Remembering the Jews before attending. Graduates Association of Iraq 11am-1pm. Hove (contact for Professor Martin Goodman A rememberance evening, exact venue details). 012 discusses aspects of Judaism. featuring the Wolf of 7347 4795. chutzpahchoir@ 3pm. £5, £20 annual m’ship. Baghdad. Iraqi Jewish guests gmail.com The Old Post Office Building, will add their own stories Birmingham, B13 8JP. and guests can enjoy some Israeli Dancing delicious Iraqi Jewish treats. BOOK A weekly Israeli dance Sunday 9 December Contact jane.itzhaki@gmail. NOW! class that takes place every Birmingham Jewish com for details. Oxford Jewish Tuesday. Graduates Association Centre, Oxford, OX1 2JL. 7.45-9.45pm. Phone for prices. Guiseppe Nicolosi delivers Ralli Hall, Hove, BN3 3TH. the AGM and Chanukah TALKS 012 7368 8538. lecture about exoplanets and Wednesday 17 & FAMILY DAY LIMMUD how we know what we know Thursday 18 October & LIMMUD FESTIVAL YORKSHIRE about these alien worlds. The Bible and the FILM 3pm. £5, £20 annual m’ship. Humanities Sunday 4 November & Tuesday 13 – Monday The Old Post Office Building, Two-day conference Sunday 23 – Thursday 27 December 26 November Birmingham, B13 8JP. engaging biblical and The wonderful Jewish festival returns to Birmingham (23-27 UK International Jewish rabbinic texts, as well Dec) with an undoubtedly stellar line up of speakers, lecturers Film Festival

NORFOLK as related philological, and artists. Plus a great programme for children, Jewish food See London listing for info, WHAT’S HAPPENING THEATRE interpretive and religious and drink, evening entertainment and competitions. Before p55, and read our reviews Thursday 18 – Saturday traditions across arts and that, Limmud lands in Cambridge (4 Nov), where Israeli of some of the festival 20 October humanities. author Dorit Rabinyan, Cambridge classicist Simon Goldhill, highlights in Film, p32. Medusa Phone for times and prices. noted historian Miri Rubin and many more will appear. 7.30pm. Prices and Leeds venues See London listing for info, Oriel College, Oxford, OX1 Hills Road Sixth Form College, Cambridge & Hilton Birmingham vary. http://ukjewishfilm.org p58. 4EW. eurojewishstudies.org Metropole. See website for times and prices. limmud.org 6.30pm (Thu) & 7.30pm TALKS (Fri-Sat). £12, £9 concs. SCOTLAND Monday 5 November DanceEast, Ipswich, IP4 1DW. FILM TALKS London) about navigating Notable Leeds Jews jasminvardimon.com Thursday 15, Sunday 18 Tuesday 23 October the various challenges of A lecture by Michael & Wednesday 21 Jewish Refugees from equality and integration in Meadowcroft for the Jewish NOTTINGHAMSHIRE November Fascism in Sussex 1933- Liberal Italy. Historical Society of England. FILM UK International Jewish 1945 7.45pm. £4. Ralli Hall, Hove, 8pm. FREE. United Hebrew Monday 11 & Sunday Film Festival A lecture by Jennifer BN3 3TH. 012 7341 9412. Congregation Synagogue, 18 November See London listing for info, Craig-Norton for the Jewish jhse.org Leeds, LS17 8DW. jhse.org UK International Jewish p55, and read our reviews Historical Society of England. Film Festival of some of the festival 7.45pm. £4. Ralli Hall, Hove, Tuesday 26 March Sunday 11 November See London listing for info, highlights in Film, p32. BN3 3TH. jhse.org Jews of Hastings and St The Jews of South Africa p55, and read our reviews Times, prices and Leonards A talk by Warren Banks. of some of the festival venues vary. ukjewishfilm.org Tuesday 27 November A lecture by Michael Jolles, a 3pm. £3 (inc. refreshments). highlights in Film, p32. The Brighton Jewish council member of the Jewish Kingfield Synagogue, Sheffield, 6pm. See website for prices. SUSSEX Community 1910 – 1920 Historical Society of England. S11 8UX. sheffieldsjcc@ Broadway, Nottingham, NG1 FILM A lecture by Michael 7.45pm. £4. Ralli Hall, Hove, gmail.com 3AL. ukjewishfilm.org Wednesday 28 & Crook, chairman of the BN3 3TH. 012 7341 9412. Thursday 29 November Sussex branch of the jhse.org Sunday 9 December OXFORDSHIRE UK International Jewish Jewish Historical Society The Life of Leonard BOOKS & POETRY Film Festival of England. THEATRE Bernstein Sunday 21 October See London listing for info, 7.45pm. £4. Ralli Hall, Hove, Tuesday 23 – Saturday Nigel Simeone presents. The Jewish Journey p55, and read our reviews BN3 3TH. jhse.org 27 October 3pm. £3 (inc. refreshments). Rebecca Abrams will be of some of the festival Old Stock: A Refugee Love Kingfield Synagogue, Sheffield, speaking at Thame Literary highlights in Film, p32. Tuesday 29 January Story S11 8UX. sheffieldsjcc@ Festival about the remarkable 8.30pm. See website for prices. Medieval Sephardi See Greater Manchester gmail.com collection of hidden Duke’s at Komedia, Brighton, Literature listing for info, p60. Jewish objects in Oxford’s BN1 1UN. ukjewishfilm.org A lecture by Imogen Choi for 7.30pm. £14-£20, £12-£18 THEATRE Ashmolean Museum, as the Jewish Historical Society concs. The Old Market, Thursday 8 & Friday detailed in her book, The MUSIC of England. Brighton, BN3 1AS. 9 November Jewish Journey: 4,000 Years Saturday 24 November 7.45pm. £4. Ralli Hall, Hove, oldstocktour.co.uk/tour.html Old Stock: A Refugee in 22 Objects. Read Abrams’ Chichester Psalms BN3 3TH. jhse.org Love Story fascinating account of Jewish The Bournemouth WORKSHOPS See Greater Manchester history as seen through some Symphony Orchestra Tuesday 26 February Until Tuesday listing for info, p60. these objects in the Jan 2018 performs Leonard Bernstein. Patriots and Jews 18 December 7.30pm. £18.50, £16.50 issue of JR. 7.30pm. £15-£36. Chichester A lecture by Dr Carlotta Chutzpah Choir under-26. Cast, Doncaster, 12pm. £7. Spread Eagle Hotel, Cathedral, PO19 1PX. 012 Ferrara degli Uberti A weekly Yiddish singing DN1 3BU. 013 0230 3959. Thame, OX9 2BW. talfestival.org 0266 9925. bsolive.com (University College class led by Polina Shepherd oldstocktour.co.uk/tour.html

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 61 EXHIBITIONS LONDON

Ben Uri American photographer before becoming a key figure A Necessary Fiction Roman Vishniac (1897– in London’s avant-garde Artwork by ceramicist Basil 1990). He’s best known for art scene between the wars. Olton, which explores the DON’T having created one of the Guest curated by Ben Uri’s untold history of anti- MISS! most widely recognised and Sarah MacDougall, featuring imperialist black activism reproduced photographic one of Ben Uri’s 11 Gertlers: in interwar London. records of Jewish life in Rabbi and Rabbitzin. A Necessary Fiction is Eastern Europe between the Until 21 October displayed as part of Black two World Wars. Featuring SW1P 4RG. 020 7887 8888. History Month. many of his most iconic tate.org.uk Until 4 November works, this comprehensive exhibition further introduces Tate Modern 200 Selected Acquisitions recently discovered and Anni Albers Since 2001 lesser-known chapters of his Beautifully intricate and A revolving show career, from the early 1920s Modernist textiles woven highlighting the art masters PELTZ GALLERY DAY FOR to the late 1970s. by German Jewish artist whose careers were cut 25 October 2018 – 24 Anni Albers. Born in short owing to forced exile. NIGHT: LANDSCAPES OF February 2019 Berlin in 1899, Albers All have been acquired in WALTER BENJAMIN NW1 7NB. 020 7284 7384. studied and worked at the the past 17 years by Ben Uri. jewishmuseum.org.uk Bauhaus and survived the 4 December – 24 March 2019 Until 27 October Holocaust (along with her NW8 0RH. 020 7604 3991. A multimedia exhibition inspired by the landscapes inhabited Peltz Gallery husband Joseph) thanks benuri.org.uk throughout the life of German Jewish philosopher, cultural Day for Night: Landscapes to a teaching residency critic and essayist Walter Benjamin. Text, photography and of Walter Benjamin at the experimental Black Etz Chayim Gallery film takes visitors on a journey from Benjamin’s birthplace See Don’t Miss for info Mountain College in North Marcia Kuperberg in Berlin to Capri and Naples, where he spent the formative (above). Carolina. A range of mixed media, years of his life. The exhibition ends in Cataluñya, northern Until 27 October Until 27 January 2019 delicate watercolours Spain, where Benjamin died while fleeing the Nazis in 1940. Birkbeck School of Arts, WC1H SE1 9TG. tate.org.uk and vivid oil paintings of Birkbeck School of Arts, WC1H 0PD. bbk.ac.uk/arts 0PD. bbk.ac.uk/arts animals and landscapes. Trafalgar Square Until 12 November The Photographer’s The Invisible Enemy Viewing by appointment: after World War I. See the combines animation, light Gallery Should Not Exist [email protected]. resilience and creativity projection, sound and space Roman Vishniac A 14-foot-long winged Northwood & Pinner Liberal at hand in times of great to present different forms Rediscovered bull sitting atop Trafalgar WHAT’S HAPPENING WHAT’S Synagogue, HA6 3AA. 019 change. of remembrance, from the See Jewish Museum London Square’s Fourth Plinth. This 2382 2592. npls.org.uk/ Until 31 March 2019 first ever recorded silence listing for info. recreation of Lamassu, etzchayim.htm at the 1929 Cenotaph 25 October – 24 February the stone deity that once I Was There: Room of Remembrance Service to W1F 7LW. 020 7087 9300. protected the ancient Imperial War Museum Voices present-day silences at thephotographersgallery.org.uk Assyrian city Nineveh, comes Poppies: Weeping Window In this immersive sound Everest Base Camp and from the mind of Iraqi- Weeping Window is a installation, 32 people who HMS Ambush. Royal Academy of Art American artist Michael cascade comprising several fought and lived through Until 31 March 2019 Klimt/Schiele: Drawings Rakowitz. Inspired by his thousand handmade World War I share their SE1 6HZ. 020 7323 4700. from the Albertina Iraqi heritage, Rakowitz ceramic poppies seen personal stories of the iwm.org.uk Museum, Vienna used 10,500 Iraqi date pouring from a high Armistice that was declared Rare and fragile drawings cans to cover the statue. location to the ground at 11am on 11 November 1918. Jewish Museum by Gustav Klimt and Egon Until 2020 below. Wave (showing in Until 31 March 2019 Maya Attoun: The Charms Schiele, offering intimate WC2N 5DN. london.gov.uk Manchester) is a sweeping of Frankenstein insights into their artistic arch of bright red poppy African Soldier A new installation created relationship and differing Wiener Library heads suspended on This multi-screen installation by artist Maya Attoun creative processes. This Shattered: Pogrom, towering stalks. Both by artist John Akomfrah especially for the Jewish extraordinary collaboration November 1938 sculptures are by artist Paul remembers the millions of Museum London. Based with the Albertina Museum Through the eyewitness Cummins and designer Tom African men and women on Attoun’s recent project in Vienna marks the accounts gathered shortly Piper and represent the who participated in World entitled 2018, The Charms centenary of both artists’ after Kristallnacht, this British or Colonial life lost War I. Projected onto of Frankenstein celebrates deaths. exhibition examines at the front during World three screens, the artwork the bicentennial of Mary 4 November 2018 – 3 responses to the War I. combines a powerful sound Shelley’s iconic novel. February 2019 unprecedented, nation-wide Until 18 November score, historic footage and Until 4 November W1J 0BD. royalacademy.org.uk campaign of violence. Never newly filmed footage shot by before seen documents Renewal: Life After the Akomfrah. Roman Vishniac Tate Britain from the library’s collection First World War Until 31 March 2019 Rediscovered Mark Gertler illustrate German and Through a collection of Presented simultaneously A selection of works by Austrian Jews’ desperate photographs, discover Moments of Silence at Jewish Museum London influential British artist Mark attempts to flee, in many the innovation and An immersive installation and The Photographers’ Gertler. Born to Austrian cases as refugees to Britain. resourcefulness that exploring the origins, history Gallery, Roman Vishniac Jewish parents in London’s Until 15 February 2019 shaped the rebuilding and and future of remembrance Rediscovered is the first UK East End, Gertler studied WC1B 5DP. 020 7636 7247.

regeneration of the world rituals. Moments of Silence retrospective of Russian-born at the Slade School of Art, wienerlibrary.co.uk FERRARI ©DIEGO

62 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 EXHIBITIONS NATIONAL & EU

GREATER SCOTLAND FRANCE Gustave Courbet, Oskar David Seymour, but known MANCHESTER Glasgow University Musée d’Art et Kokoschka, Mark Rothko professionally as Chim, Imperial War Museum Chapel d’Histoire du Judaisme, and Egon Schiele. the Jewish Polish-American North, Manchester Hannah Frank 110th Until 10 February 2019 photographer was a pioneer Poppies: Wave Birthday Exhibition Christian Boltanski 75003. +33 (1) 5301 8653. in political photojournalism. See Poppies: Weeping See Don’t Miss for info The Parisian artist mahj.org A particular highlight is the Window London listing (below). evokes the Shoah in this photographs of the young for info, p62. Until 6 February 2019 major work, for which he GERMANY State of Israel. Until 25 November G12 8QQ. hannahfrank.org.uk researched thoroughly Jewish Museum, Berlin 19 October 2018 – 20 March all the inhabitants of the Welcome to Jerusalem 2019 Lest We Forget? EUROPE Saint-Aignan Hotel in 1939. A major exhibition 1011 PL. jhm.nl A look at commemorating AUSTRIA The piece, which is located dedicated to a city that is war as a concept, one that Jewish Museum, Vienna in the courtyard, is made up revered as a holy place by National Holocaust spans personal memorials, Teddy Kollek: The of posters that the weather Jews, Christians and Muslims Museum, Amsterdam community tributes and Viennese Mayor of progressively degrades. alike, but is simultaneously a Exodus: Illegal Palestine state commemorations. Jerusalem Until 31 December point in the conflict between Travellers, 1945-48 The display includes a An exhibition about Israelis and Palestinians. With photographs and photograph of a body Jerusalem’s Austrian mayor, Tribute to the Donors Topics are presented poignant stories of Dutch selected for The Unknown whose life work included A large selection of through historical objects, people who wanted to Warrior – two graves of trying to enable a peaceful ancient and contemporary works by artists past and build a new life in Palestine, unidentified British and coexistence between photographs, rare objects, present, immersive room Exodus tells the story of the French soldiers buried at Jews and Palestinians, family archives and designs, and multimedia hundreds of Dutch-Jewish

Westminster Abbey and rescuing refugees from the testimonies of Comtadin and installations. youths displaced after WHAT’S HAPPENING the Arc de Triomphe to Nazi regime and opening Maghrebian Jews that tell the Until 30 April 2019 World War II who made the remember the unknown Vienna’s Jewish Museum. history of the Jews of France. 10969. +49 30 2599 3300. tumultuous trip to Palestine. dead – and the original Joey Until 25 November Until 13 January 2019 jmberlin.de Until 6 January 2019 puppet from the National Theatre’s War Horse. Leonard Bernstein: Sigmund Freud: Look NETHERLANDS Tangible Memories from Until 24 February 2019 A New Yorker in Vienna and Listen Jewish Historical the Jewish Monument M17 1TZ. 016 1836 4000. Leonard Bernstein, who was Some 200 paintings, Museum, Amsterdam Previously titled Jewish iwm.org.uk introduced to music in the drawings, engravings and David Seymour (Chim) Monument and set up synagogue of his childhood scientific devices that offer a A retrospective on the life online, this collection MERSEYSIDE in Boston, had a lifelong fresh look at the intellectual and work of one of the of individual profiles of Tate Liverpool relationship with Vienna. and scientific journey of the greatest photojournalists 104,000 (and counting) Everybody Razzle Dazzle From 1966 until his death in inventor of psychoanalysis. of the 20th century. Born Holocaust victims gets To celebrate the centenary of 1990 he returned on several Featuring major works by Dawid Szymin, later called a physical place in the the end of World War I, the occasions to work with museum. It includes objects, Tate Liverpool and Liverpool the Vienna Philharmonic. photographs, documents Biennial commissioned This exhibition marks the and other personal items to Sir Peter Blake to ‘dazzle’ centenary of his birth. help paint a picture of the a Mersey Ferry in the style 17 October 2018 – 28 April DON’T lives that were connected of a British warship. The 2019 MISS! to them. It also features an term ‘dazzling’ came from interactive display of the the abstract and angular Kabbalah: The Art of Jewish children profiled. shapes used during WWI to Jewish Mysticism Until 31 December 2019 camouflage the underside An exploration of Kabbalah 1018 DB. jck.nl/en of boats so that enemy in its widest sense. Its submarines couldn’t tell historical developments, SPAIN which direction they were including classical Centro Sefarad Israel, going in. Blake’s dazzle Kabbalah, early Jewish Madrid ship, otherwise known as mysticism, practical Journey into Sepharad: Snowdrop, will be sailing on Kabbalah and magic, as well An Exhibition of Paintings the Mersey until 2019. as its modern offshoots in art and Watercolours Until 6 April 2019 and popular culture. GLASGOW UNIVERSITY London-based artist Bettina L3 4BB. 015 1702 7400. 31 October 2018 – 3 March Caro presents large-scale tate.org.uk 2019 CHAPEL HANNAH FRANK paintings of Sephardi 110TH BIRTHDAY synagogues, many of which MIDLANDS Kurt Klagsbrunn are no longer in use. Plus a Herbert Art Gallery and Kurt Klagsbrunn’s (1918– Until 6 February 2019 number of works depicting Museum, Coventry 2005) photos provide an A showcase of the life and work of celebrated Jewish artist Moroccan Jewish brides Artists Rooms: Anselm insight into a dedicated and Hannah Frank. The Glasgow native passed away 10 years wearing their traditional Kiefer integrated Viennese Jewish ago at the age of 100 after a 75-year career. The exhibition dress, the North African See Top Picks for info, p54. suburban family who were takes place at her former university, where she spent her tea ceremony and still-life 19 October 2018 – 27 January forced to flee in 1938. student years, and subsequent time after graduation, paintings of items of Judaica. 2019 5 December 2018 – 12 May illustrating and writing for the Glasgow University Magazine. 26 October – 31 December CV1 5QP. 024 7623 7521. 2019 G12 8QQ. hannahfrank.org.uk 28013. +34 91 391 10 02. HANNAH FRANK

© theherbert.org 1010. +43 1535 0431. jmw.at casasefarad-israel.es

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 63 EXHIBITIONS ISRAEL

HOLON Fashion Statements: TEL AVIV Design Museum Holon Decoding Israeli Dress Beit Hatfutsot Sagmeister and Walsh Clothing, sketches, films and Let There Be Laughter: A selection of works from the DON’T photography that illustrate Jewish Humour Around studio of designers Stefan MISS! the evolution of fashion in the World Sagmeister and Jessica Israel over the past century. What makes Jews so funny? Walsh. The pair specialise in Journey from pre-Zionist Find out at this light-hearted branding, social strategies, fashion, through Oriental look at the origins of Jewish advertising, apps, books and influences to today’s trends. humour and the major more, so expect a colourful Until 6 April 2019 contributions by Jews to the and varied collection. rise of a global industry. Until 20 October Treasures of Yemenite See records, books and Silverwork interactive installations. Hide & Seek Rare silver items dated to No end date specified A radical, playful and almost the 18th and 19th centuries 61392. +972 3745 7808. theatrical exhibition of work according to the hallmarks of bh.org.il by Dutch designer Maarten ISRAEL MUSEUM ZOYA the imams. Almost all bear Baas. CHERKASSKY: PRAVDA the names of the craftsmen Eretz Museum 27 November 2018 – 27 April who made them, including A Toast to Israel! 2019 Until 3 November some renowned Jewish Israeliana glasses that 5845400. +972 73-215-1525. In this first solo exhibition of work by acclaimed Israeli families of silversmiths. mark 70 years of the State dmh.org.il artist Zoya Cherkassky, visitors will see a series of oil on Until 1 May 2019 of Israel. Those on display linen paintings and works on paper. Pravda depicts scenes 9171002. +972 2670 8811. were produced locally during JERUSALEM experienced by the millions of Russian immigrants who came imj.org.il Israel’s early years right up Bible Lands Museum to Israel in the early 1990s. With images of arrivals, long until the mid-70s. Out of the Blue queues and foreign food, you can see that Cherkassky uses Tower of David – The Until 29 December As Israel celebrates its 70th both humour and sincerity to portray a stark reality. Museum of the History anniversary year, explore 9171002. +972 2670 8811. imj.org.il of Jerusalem The Sandal: Anthropology the origins of tekhelet and London in Jerusalem: of a Local Style argaman (blue and purple British Culture on the A look at one of the objects dyes), from the bold hues of ceramics to be seen in Israel. America from post–World Streets of the City 1917- that’s become synonymous the Mediterranean shores The display features rare War II onwards, collected 1948 with Israel – the sandal. to the national colours pieces, ranging from the between 1912 and 2012. Shed light on the society From kibbutz shoemakers of the State of Israel. second millennium BCE to Until 30 November and cultural life of Jerusalem to workshops on Tel Aviv’s WHAT’S HAPPENING WHAT’S See culturally significant the 5th century BCE. during a relatively short, but Dizengoff Street, via shoe archaeological items, No end date specified A Wedding Dress from influential time in the history factories in Hebron, The 2,000-year-old fragments 9104601. +972 2561 1066. Baghdad of the city: the 30 years of Sandal explains how a local dyed in tekhelet and blmj.org Made of satin silk and the British Mandate. During style was forged and how its argaman found in caves in decorated with tinsel this period the process forms endure. the Judean Desert, and rare Israel Museum embroidery, this unique dress of modernisation, which No end date specified prayer shawls and historic Christian Boltanski: displays traditional motifs began at the end of the 19th 69975. +972 (0) 3641 5244. flags. Plus, see the only Lifetime including the Tree of Life, century, solidified and new eretzmuseum.org.il known jar in the world to Work by Parisian artist birds and khamsa patterns. initiatives were established feature royal inscriptions by Christian Boltanski, This type of embroidery is to boost the economy and Darius I, King of Persia, in created over the past four characteristic of dowry items culture of Jerusalem. Arieh Sharon: Architect of four languages and painted decades. Born in 1944 to a of the brides of Baghdad at No end date specified the State entirely in purple. Jewish father and Catholic the time, whether Jewish, The first retrospective of No end date specified mother, Boltanski grew up Muslim or Christian. This A General and A work by one of Israel’s surrounded by survivors of particular dress was worn Gentleman: Allenby at the architectural forefathers. Jerusalem in Babylon: New the war and the memories for the first time by Rabbi Gates of Jerusalem Arieh Sharon, a graduate light on the Judean Exiles of those who died. These Abraham Baruch Gubbay’s On the afternoon of 11 of the Bauhaus School, Learn about the story of experiences heavily influence grandmother in the late 19th December 1917, General planned over 600 projects, the destruction of the First his work, which questions century, before it moved Edmund Allenby walked including kibbutzim, office Temple and Jerusalem and if it’s possible to truly to London with the family, from the Jaffa Gate to the blocks, hospitals and the exile of the Judeans to remember and how we best where it was altered to be Tower of David Citadel. university campuses. Babylon in this exhibition, commemorate the dead. worn by Mozelle – Rabbi This moment signified the Until 27 October which concludes with the Until 31 October Gubbay’s bride – in 1965. beginning of a new era in echo of Psalm 137: “By the Until 31 December the history of Jerusalem, the Avraham Ofek: Body, rivers of Babylon, there Zoya Cherkassky: Pravda Jewish Yishuv and the Land Work we sat and wept when we See Don’t Miss for info Freud of the Rings of Israel. The exhibition A rich and enigmatic remembered Zion”. (above). Freud’s own ring is displayed explores this post-World collection of work by the No end date specified Until 3 November beside other rings that he War I era with films, late Israeli artist. Featuring gifted to his students. There photographs, rare objects, his 1986-87 pieces, A Jew Gods, Heroes and Mortals Along Personal Lines: Gifts are also a few objects from posters and personal items. Facing Himself. in Ancient Greece from the Schulhof Collection the psychoanalyst’s antiques No end date specified Until 27 October The most comprehensive Works by artists who were collection. 9114001. +972 2626 5333. 61332. +972 (0) 3607 7020.

exhibition of ancient Greek active in Europe and North Until 1 March 2019 tod.org.il tamuseum.org.il ELIE POSNER BY ©THE ISRAEL MUSEUM, JERUSALEM

64 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 FAMILY

Never a dull day: the children of Alumot have fun in the Fens A warm ‘shalom’ for Israelis in Cambridge A new centre, Alumot, is offering Hebrew classes and cultural activities for the Israeli community in Cambridgeshire. Tamar Drukker meets some of the parents involved to find out more FAMILY n 1540, under Henry V111, the first ever The Hebrew teachers are parents and Other members are long-term residents professor of Hebrew was appointed at members of the community. Jewish of the city. “We arrived in Cambridge ICambridge University. For the past five holidays and other celebrations are also from Beer Sheva in 2006 for post-doctoral centuries Hebrew has continued to be marked – after the birth of Alumot’s first research,” says Dr Sharon Morein, a senior taught there. But over the past year the city baby, the group set up a rota to provide lecturer in psychology at Anglia Ruskin has seen a new type of Hebrew teaching set meals for the family. Three more babies University. “One research post led to up by a group called Alumot to cater for the have been born since, so the rota has been another and, eventually, to a permanent growing number of Israelis in the city. busy. The synagogue also houses Alumot’s position. We joined Alumot because we In 2017, a group of Israelis living in Hebrew-language library, which has books, wanted our children to learn Hebrew, but Cambridge met informally to discuss their CDs and DVDs, all donated by members. also to have a meaningful link to Israel and need to improve their children’s Hebrew Alumot offers newcomers a place to its culture. We also enjoy the activities for reading and writing skills. “I have two boys feel at home and make new friends. The grownups. I’d like to see the social aspect of aged five and three and both were born Arad family relocated to the community grow and here,” says Alumot’s director Tamara Novis, Cambridge from Israel in strengthen the sense of who arrived in Cambridge from Kfar Saba, January when the parents “Many Israelis belonging.” Israel, in 2010. “I was worried that if they took up jobs in the city’s don’t feel at home Many of the Israelis didn’t speak my language they would miss IT industry. The parents in Cambridge are not a big part of my identity. It’s not just about wanted their eldest in a synagogue, religious and don’t feel the vocabulary, but also how you think daughter, who would have yet want to pass at home as synagogue about things.” started school in Israel members, yet want to Within weeks a group of over 30 families in September, to learn to on their culture” lead a Jewish life and pass was formed and, five months later, in read and write in Hebrew. it on to their children. September 2017, Alumot was established, “Even when we are fully integrated here, “Our main reason for joining Alumot operating weekly from a base at Beth she will always be an Israeli,” says the was to extend Hebrew and Israeli secular Shalom Reform Synagogue. Meaning mother, Ronit Arad. “We want her, and Jewish education for my two sons,” says sheaves of wheat or beams of light in those around her, to understand what this Adi Naamati, a biologist who works at one Hebrew, Alumot denotes grouping together. means. But Alumot is much more than an of the Cambridge University labs and who They now have over 40 families involved, after-school club, it’s a community. The moved to the city from Jerusalem three with 62 children aged 3-13 who attend five teachers put much thought and energy into years ago. On a recent holiday to Israel, her different Hebrew classes. planning the meetings, and the parents seven-year-old, Matan, enjoyed practising The children meet every Sunday for help in setting up the classes, clearing his Hebrew reading with his grandmother. two hours of Hebrew instruction and up and adding content to the lessons. All For Adi this is what Alumot is all about. play, while the parents enjoy lectures of this cannot be achieved simply by a Alumot is only one of many emerging and workshops offered by members of Facebook or WhatsApp group.” Israeli communities in Europe that are the community, from a talk on medieval forming alongside, and in cooperation with, illuminated Bibles to issues in gendered local synagogues, reflecting the need for education. One member recently shared Hebrew cultural centres outside Israel. n his experiences from a research voyage in the Pacific Ocean; another described her For info see alumot.uk. Note some names have research into the memory of mice. been changed in the article.

OCTOBER 2018 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK 65 MEET THE READER HOUNSLOW WITH A LOCAL OUR SERIES IN WHICH WE GET TO KNOW YOU, OUR READERS Basil Mann reveals the best bits where he lives

GO FOR A WALK The Thames runs through this area and is really nice where the Boat Race starts – somewhere like Chiswick – and it goes all the way through Richmond. Often my wife Maya Attoun and I will get a bus to Richmond and walk along the river. Gunnersbury Park, which is very close to us, is also Basil Mann a lovely place to walk. HOUNSLOW, LONDON “I’d ask leaders of the GRAB A BITE TO EAT faiths why they don’t There are no kosher restaurants, but like most places today there TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOURSELF… communicate enough are vegetarian options. There are I celebrated my 80th birthday earlier with each other” numerous Indian restaurants, which this year. I’m in my second marriage my wife and I both like. I’d suggest and I have two daughters, a son and four WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO YOU TO Watermans – it’s a cinema and grandchildren. I’m retired, but at the age BE JEWISH? restaurant and their speciality is of 16 I joined the family business – Edward I’m very proud. Very, very proud. I spend Indian food. Mann. It was one of the top ladies’ hat a lot of time with Hounslow Friends of manufacturers, but the industry declined Faith and organise school visits to Ealing EXPLORE THE CULTURE and I ended up as a bookkeeper. For about Synagogue, because all schools should Osterley House is a manor house 20 years I umpired cricket for the London know about different faiths. My wife and built in 1870 by Sir Thomas Gresham. WHAT’S HAPPENING WHAT’S Schools Cricket Association and, in 2009, I also spent some time in Uganda where For us, it’s within walking distance, umpired for the Maccabi Games in Israel. my wife was teaching and I was coaching so often if we’re both at home on I am still a member of Marylebone Cricket cricket. There’s a small Jewish community a sunny afternoon we’ll walk over Club and Surrey County Cricket Club. in a place called Mbale, which was quite a there. A bit further along we’ve got I’m also very active in the community. long way from where we were, but we spent Syon House, which belongs to the one Shabbat and one Chanukah with them. Duke of Northumberland and has HAVE YOU ALWAYS LIVED IN beautiful grounds. HOUNSLOW? HOW DID YOU DISCOVER JR? I moved to this area 30-odd years ago and To be honest with you I can’t remember. JOIN IN WITH THE in those days Hounslow had a synagogue. It was about three or four years ago and COMMUNITY Like all shuls, it started in a house and it might have been at a Jewish exhibition There is Israeli dancing on a Tuesday then grew, but unfortunately that’s closed or Limmud. I love looking at all the events, night at Ealing Synagogue (but now. That’s why I joined Ealing Synagogue. but I especially like when you do different open to the whole community). We Although we’re fairly small, we do some countries. I find the Passport section have a small number of members, very good things. We celebrate Mitzvah Day, quite interesting. but we have all sorts of events and where you give up some time, rather than talks. We had a big Jewish concert money, to do something charitable; we’ve WHO WOULD BE YOUR PERFECT DINNER in June and we do visits outside the Free for Friends 27 September - 4 November 2018 had the Israeli ambassador for a Shabbat PARTY GUEST? area. It’s a very close community. lunch; and we have a civic service every I think the Archbishop of Canterbury, year with the mayor. the Chief Rabbi and leaders of the other CATCH A PLAY Jewish Museum London faiths. I’d ask them why they don’t We’ve got Richmond Theatre WHERE DID YOU LIVE PREVIOUSLY? communicate enough with each other. In nearby, which gets all the main plays. Raymond Burton House jewishmuseum.org.uk/maya-attoun I was born in Palmers Green, north the Westminster Interfaith newsletter I saw We now have a theatre in Kingston London, and I’ve gradually moved across that at Ramadan other synagogues did all too. We’re not out in the sticks at all. 129-131 Albert Street #CharmsOfFrankenstein the city. My late father was very involved sorts of things to connect with the Muslim Transport is very good here and we’re in Palmers Green Synagogue, so I’ve community, so when we come to Ramadan on the edge of Surrey, so it’s really London NW1 7NB definitely got the same genes. I also went next year I’m going to see if we can do that. quite a nice place to live. to Whittingehame College, which was a We need to do more on that sort of thing. n very successful Jewish boarding school in Interview by Danielle Goldstein Brighton. London was very dirty in the ’50s and I suffered very badly with asthma, Want to share your story? Email danielle@ so that was the idea behind me going to jewishrenaissance.org.uk with your name, age Registered Charity no.1009819 In partnership with CHARLOTTE MAYHEW; WIKI COMMONS MAYHEW; CHARLOTTE

school in Brighton. and local area. ©

66 JEWISHRENAISSANCE.ORG.UK OCTOBER 2018 Maya Attoun

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Jewish Museum London Raymond Burton House jewishmuseum.org.uk/maya-attoun 129-131 Albert Street #CharmsOfFrankenstein London NW1 7NB

Registered Charity no.1009819 In partnership with LIMMUD FESTIVAL 2018 MADE BY YOU 23-27 DECEMBER BOOK NOW LIMMUD.ORG