Return to the Great Forests

FRANS BLOM'S LETTERS FROM PALENQUE December 1922 - March 1923

Translated and with an introduction and notes by Jesper Nielsen & Tore Leifer

letters, published as I de store Skove – Breve fra Meksiko ("In the Great Forests – Letters from Mexico") (Blom 1923)3, and she planned to have a sequel published, entitled Atter i de store Skove ("Return to the Great Forests"). Apart from some excerpts that appeared in a Danish newspaper, this idea never came off. When Blom, still a young amateur, arrived at Palenque near the end of 1922 he already knew the site from firsthand experience. Earlier the same year, on April 25, Blom had visited the ruins for the first time. (See Figure 1.) He was immediately overwhelmed by the beauty of the place, and although he was officially an oil scout on an oil expedition Figure 1. The Temple of the Sun, Palenque, April 1922 (photograph (see Nielsen 2003 for a short biographical sketch), he spent by Frans Blom, in the Blom collection of the Bancroft Library, Uni- page after page in his notebook on drawing, photographing versity of California, Berkeley; courtesy of the Bancroft Library). and describing the site and its monuments. He carried quite In 2002 the authors and Toke Sellner Reunert published a few archaeological books and maps with him, but he was a new, extensive biography on the Maya archaeologist and convinced that many details on the existing maps and plans explorer Frans Blom (1893-1963), the first ever to appear in were wrong and consequently corrected them in accordance Blom's mother tongue – Danish (Leifer et al. 2002). Among with what he saw. "These ruins are full of enigmas and the many forgotten documents that were rediscovered dur- wonders", he wrote in his diary4 – not knowing that he ing the three-year period of research in Denmark, Mexico and the United States were two typescripts of Blom's letters from his stay in Palenque, Chiapas, Mexico; where, from December 14, 1922, to March 14, 1923, Blom carried out one of the first scientific investigations of this important Classic Maya site (see Blom 1982). The fullest version of the Palenque typescripts is in the archives of the Middle American Research Institute (M.A.R.I.) of Tulane University, New Orleans (the version translated here), and a slightly abridged and re-arranged version is to be found in the Bancroft Library of the University of California, Berkeley.1 Both typescripts are in Danish and were compiled by Dora Blom, Frans Blom's mother, and originally sent to one or more publishers in Copenhagen.2 Dora had already edited one volume of Frans' Figure 2. Frans Blom’s drawing of the Oval Palace Tablet, from the 1 Palace, Palenque, 1922-23 (from the M.A.R.I. version of the Palenque The discovery of a major collection of documents in the Bancroft typescript; courtesy of the Middle American Research Institute, Library, including photo albums, diaries and letters not known Tulane University). to previous biographers of Blom (e.g., Brunhouse 1976) has contributed significantly to the new biography. 2 3 The M.A.R.I. typescript contains four figures; two photographs of Published in Spanish in 1990 as En el lugar de los grandes bosques the Palace and two line drawings by Blom, one showing the Oval by the Instituto Chiapaneco de Cultura, Chiapas, Mexico. 4 Tablet (see Figure 2) and one illustrating three examples of glyphs From Blom’s expedition diary in Danish, March-June 1922. (Latin from the Palace. American Library, Tulane University, New Orleans). The PARI Journal 4(3):7-10. 7 Return to the Great Forests, Frans Blom's Letters from Palenque would eight months later have the opportunity to return and the forest, you cross several small creeks, then the Mixol examine them more carefully. river, a clear little mountain stream, and shortly thereafter By then, the famous Mexican archaeologist Manuel the Otolum, the creek that comes from the ruins. Soon you Gamio of the Dirección de Antropología in Mexico City reach the foot of the limestone hills. The path rises steeply, (whom Blom had been working for since August 1922) had and when once again you reach a level path, you are on become so convinced of Blom's talent and abilities that in the plateau where the ruins lie. To the left of the path, the early October 1922 he offered him a job as an archaeological Otolum thunders away, hidden by the forest. By the old Maya bridge over this creek lie two palm-thatched huts, attendant in Palenque. Frans was to spend three months 8 there on his own in order to ascertain what could be done and this is where I've settled." He found the ruins in a to preserve the ruins. For Frans, who had already been sad condition, all covered by vegetation, trees and shrubs. captivated by the haunting spirit of that beautiful place, this The famous limestone tablets of the Cross Group were job was a dream come true – and the young amateur spent covered by humid slime and moss. "These tablets should October and November studying the available literature on really be taken to the Museum in Mexico [City], since it's the subject: "The more I penetrate into the mysteries of the impossible to protect them here. Day by day, year by year, ancient Maya, the more it interests me. I have been reading the hieroglyphs and figures are erased. Now they are to be very diligently lately, working like a little horse – though brushed clean, this is all I can do to prolong their life for a little while. Many men and much money could be used in it's not really hard work when the subject interests you, it's 9 rather a pleasure and a feast."5 the work to protect these art treasures." "First I went through all that I could find that had been Frans soon launched himself into his job with great published and written about the ruins of Palenque. […] enthusiasm, only somewhat delayed by his great love for Maudslay's work should serve as a model and an ideal for the profusion of wonderful flowers: "And what a terrible archaeologists", Blom wrote in his diary. But apart from job I had been assigned. Truly, I walked around for days, the great Maudslay, Blom was certainly not very impressed and couldn't do a thing. Right and left were the old temples, with all that he read. Many of the available books he settled in the world's most beautiful forest. Lianas and dismissed as "fanciful and crackbrained explanations of the orchids and other tropical verdure was covering one and history and origins of the Maya. A great part of these was all of the buildings. AND, – dam[n] it, – It was my orders crazy second-hand nonsense."6 Finally, on December 3, he and my job to tear down all that floral beauty. […] Alas, the had his things packed and was all set to leave for Palenque day came for destruction. There were the temples, and the on the following day: "All has now been packed down, palaces, and every one of their rooves [roofs] were covered in a solid carpet of wild pink begonias. The butchery started, and the civilized part of my belongings has been stored 10 in a warehouse. What remains is the camp-bed, a bolt of and with every machete slash my heart was bleeding." canvas with my bedclothes, a sack with clothes and boots, After the flower massacre, work proceeded at a calm two crates of instruments and a large camera. My room is and steady pace. In the very meticulous and well-grounded deserted and empty; the door opens – almost – directly report which Blom later wrote for Gamio, he not only into the forests. Tomorrow night begins the journey. […] managed to comment on the condition of the ruins and make Though this city is wonderful, a voice inside me begins to suggestions as to how and in what sequence the buildings sing of the forests, especially during these last few days."7 should be excavated and restored, which was what Gamio On December 14, 1922, Frans reached the ruins, and had asked him to do, but he also provided exact descriptions in his diary from that same day he described the horseback of the ruins and was the first to describe and map a large ride: "From Palenque cemetery the path leads to the ruins. part of the site – a map that was only replaced by a new and Quite a good path, through dense scrub. Then you come better one a couple of years ago (Barnhart 2001). Blom only into an open savannah, and from here you catch your did some minor excavations during his stay, and indeed this first glimpse of the ruins. The Temple of the Cross shines was not the official task assigned to him by Gamio (at this white against the forest-clad hills. Again you plunge into point Blom had not yet received any formal training in archaeology), but he was deeply concerned with the future of the ancient city: "I would love to excavate Palenque, 5 Letter to his parents in Danish, November 5, 1922. (Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley). 8 6 Diary in Danish, December 14, 1922. (Bancroft Library). Diary in Danish, December 14, 1922. (Bancroft Library). 9 7 Letter to his parents in Danish, December 3, 1922 (Bancroft Diary in Danish, December 14, 1922. (Bancroft Library). 10 Library). Notes from Palenque in English, ca. 1923. (Bancroft Library).

8 Return to the Great Forests, Frans Blom's Letters from Palenque but how can I do a good and honest job of it? It's going to the thousand year old pyramids and temples. My workmen cost plenty of money. It's not just excavation that counts. had hardly finished the job of fitting out the house for me, One must not destroy; but all should be planned so that the before I sent them off to open up paths to the most impor- excavation will mean preservation. Thus future generations tant buildings. So, tomorrow the work can really begin. can learn and benefit from the work. Frankly, – I would And there is a lot to do here. The buildings are in a sad rather leave Palenque as a jungle covered pile of broken 11 condition. Here and there the wonderful relief figures are masonry – than rape it." flaking off, and trees and bushes are growing in all crevices Many years later, in the 1950s, Blom told a Danish and cracks. All this has to be cleaned out; supporting beams writer about his work in Palenque: "I traded my oil salary will have to be put up afterwards, and where the walls are for a miserable salary as an archaeologist. I have never about to collapse some bricklaying has to be done. Years regretted that decision. I was sent to Palenque to measure and thousands of dollars could be spent in preventing these up the ruins. […] I made a report of my investigations buildings from being completely destroyed, and it should but it was never printed, for those were the days of the be done. revolution and lead was used for bullets, not for printing" It is wonderful to be back in the forests again. The (Ulrich 1956:183). Soon after his return to Mexico City in food tastes of the smoke from the fireplace, and outside the March 1923, Frans gave the manuscript to Gamio. It was an cicadas are singing their evening song. My Indian workers excellent and thorough work considering that Blom was a sit outside the hut and tell each other lies and fairy stories, mere amateur, and whatever lingering doubts Gamio might and a couple of small remarks reveal that they are not all have had as to Frans Blom's qualities and potential, they that happy about having to spend the night here among the were now dispelled. Blom had passed his first test as a self- ruins. taught archaeologist. It was not, however, until 1982 that By the way, I had quite a dramatic journey down here. the report was finally published by INAH (Blom 1982) – a The train was derailed twice; I was prepared for some kind delay of 59 years which was probably due to factors others 12 of interruption, so I had brought with me a lunch basket. than the shortage of lead. Just as we were moving well ahead I could feel that the Here finally – with a similar delay of more than 80 train was running off the rails into soft ground and stopped. years – are the Palenque letters, giving us a glimpse of Soon after followed volleys from rifles and pistols from all young Blom's daily life among the ruins of Palenque. Not sides. I did what every brave man should under such cir- only do we find impressions of Blom's relationship with cumstances, I crouched down on the floor of the compart- the local population and his working methods, but we are ment, I had no intention of putting my head out the window also presented with interesting background information on to see what was up. Once the shooting was over I peeked early looting activity in Palenque, the first site "museum" out. The train crew had scared off the attackers, and outside and some of Blom's discoveries at Palenque, including that my compartment a couple of them lay dead on the ground; of a well-preserved red-painted and polished stucco floor they didn't look too good; one of them had his mouth open in the Temple of the Sun (see also Blom 1982:62) and the and in it shone a large gold tooth. One of the members of the uncarved stone column or stela known as "La Picota" (see train crew passed by, saw the gold tooth, the rifle butt into also Blom 1982:112-113). Thus, in various respects, the the mouth, crack! and the tooth went into the pocket of his Blom letters add new perspectives to the research history of waistcoat and he went on. We had to get out of the carriage, this important Maya site. walk for a couple of kilometers and wait for a few hours; The Palace, Palenque, Chiapas, Mexico, I enjoyed my lunch basket, great offers were given on the December 14, 1922. contents of it – but no, it was not for sale. At last another train picked us up. Something similar happened during the It is with a proud feeling that I write the heading of this middle of the night, once more we had to get out and walk letter. I arrived at the ruins today at about 11 in the morning a long distance in pitch-darkness across a swampy terrain, and got myself installed. At the foot of the main temple is carrying all the luggage, well, mine wasn't very big, but a small Indian hut: this is where I live, and around me rise still. We were underway for 40 hours; normally this stretch can be done in 6 to 7.

11 Notes from Palenque in English, ca. 1923. (Bancroft Library). 12 A summary of Blom’s findings at Palenque 1922-1923 later appeared in English in Tribes and Temples (Blom & La Farge 1926-27:169-189).

9 Return to the Great Forests, Frans Blom's Letters from Palenque

December 20, 1922. Acknowledgements: This is a realm of peace and beauty. New things of Our warmest thanks to E. Wyllys Andrews V and interest appear piecemeal, as my Indians clear the forest Kathe Lawton (Middle American Research Institute, Tulane surrounding the ruins and manage to weed the bushes and University, New Orleans), to Guillermo Náñez Falcón and plants out of the cracks in the walls and on the roofs of the Paul Bary (Latin American Library, Tulane University, New temples. The ruins are situated on a small, raised plateau, Orleans), to Susan Snyder, Jack von Euw and David Kessler below us the lowlands of Tabasco stretch as far north as the (Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley), and eye can see; behind us, to the south, rise forested moun- to Peter Mathews (La Trobe University, Melbourne). tains. The more I read about the Mayas, the more familiar I In memory of Jaime Kibben (1947-2003) become with their buildings and their works of art, the more I am astonished of the abilities and the high culture of this References people. BARNHART, EDWIN L. Already before Cortez arrived here in Mexico, Palenque 2001 The Palenque Mapping Project, 1998-2000. Final was in ruins as were other of the great ruined cities which lie Report. Posted at www.famsi.org. hidden in the forests of Chiapas and Guatemala. One after one these sites are visited, one after one they are explored BLOM, FRANS and studied, and step by step our knowledge increases. This 1923 I de store Skove – Breve fra Meksiko. Andr. Fred. people had a fully developed writing system and a calendri- Høst & Søns Forlag, København. cal system that greatly surpassed the Gregorian calendar, 1982 Las ruinas de Palenque, Xupá y Finca Encanto. and in some respects outdid our own.13 And these results [1923] Collección Biblioteca del Instituto Nacional de were accomplished without the modern instruments of our Antropología e Historia, México, D.F. time. They worked in stone with stone tools, and their ren- BLOM, FRANS & OLIVER LA FARGE derings of human figures are only surpassed by the Greeks; 1926- Tribes and Temples. A Record of the Expedition to the Assyrians and Egyptians stood far below the Mayas. 1927 Middle America Conducted by The Tulane It is a continuous joy to me that I get so well along with University of Louisiana in 1925. Vols. I-II. The the Indians. If you know how to win their friendship, they Tulane University of Louisiana, New Orleans. are hearty in their own shy way. BRUNHOUSE, ROBERT L. In the evening after nightfall they silently glide into 1976 Frans Blom, Maya Explorer. University of New my hut, they squat down along the wall, and there they sit Mexico Press, Albuquerque. completely still. If I work, they won't say a word; however, I often talk to them, and little by little I get them to tell me LEIFER, TORE & JESPER NIELSEN, TOKE SELLNER small stories about their legends and their different supersti- REUNERT tious beliefs. This, too, is a part of my job and almost the 2002 Det urolige blod – Biografi om Frans Blom. Høst & most difficult. Søn, København.

To be continued in the next PARI Journal. NIELSEN, JESPER 2003 Frans Blom and the Decipherment of Maya Writing. In The PARI Journal, Vol. IV, No. 2, pp. 4-9. San Francisco. 13 Blom seems to get things mixed up a bit. Our present calendar is, ULRICH, PER of course, the Gregorian calendar. 1956 Blandt Mexicos indianere. Forlaget Tiden, København.

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