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KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
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KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
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This is a guide for gentlemen who aspire to live a more fulfilling, high quality, stylish and rewarding life.
KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE – 1st Edition 2016 – MRKOACHMAN.com
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER 1: 7 Tips on How to Create a Great First Impression
CHAPTER 2: Most Unforgivable Fashion SINS – The 15 Commandments of Style
CHAPTER 3: Top 13 Qualities That Make You A Classy Gentleman
CHAPTER 4: 10 Things You Definitely Need To Stop Wearing After You Turn 30
CHAPTER 5: Top 10 Accessories Every Modern Gentleman Must Have in His Wardrobe
CHAPTER 6: The 3 Shoes You Need To Stop Wearing and 3 Shoes Every Gentleman Should Own
CHAPTER 7: TUXEDO GUIDE| THE BLACK TIE DRESS CODE FOR A GENTLEMAN AND HIS LADY
CHAPTER 8: 25 Suit Rules All Men Need to Know
CHAPTER 9: 10 Fashion and Style Tips for Large Men – How to Dress to Make Yourself Look Thinner
CHAPTER 10: The Power Of A Pocket Square | 7 Easy Ways To Fold A Pocket Square
CHAPTER 11: How to Match Ties to Pocket Squares
CHAPTER 12: An Introductory Guide to Men’s Native Wears - What to Wear & What Not to Wear
CHAPTER 13: HOW TO WEAR A BOW TIE – An Introductory Guide | Styles For Gentlemen
CHAPTER 14: 10 Rules For Wearing Suspenders. Number 1 is a Must!
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INTRODUCTION
Are you new to Men’s Fashion? Need to polish up your knowledge on men’s style? The KOBI KOACHMAN ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MEN’S STYLE will provide you with comprehensive information you need to dress better, live well, do well and develop a confident and unique personal style that matches your lifestyle and goals.
Asides improving your fashion sense you also need to improve your personal style, therefore this guide has been specifically written to help you achieve both. It is aimed to enhance your image, individual style, grooming and your confidence.
This guide has been designed to give you a basic foundation that would help you start your style journey towards becoming a True and Stylish Gentleman. We guarantee you that if you follow these guidelines, you will begin to look great, feel great and become a classy gentleman in less than 30 days. So let’s start right away with these 14 Guides!
For questions, concerns or suggestions, please contact the author at [email protected]
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CHAPTER ONE 7 Tips on How to Create a Great First Impression
"People will forget what you said. People will forget what you did. But people will never forget how you made them feel." - Maya Angelou
First Impressions matter: If you forget every other thing, please don’t forget this:
The way you look directly affects the way you think, the way you feel, the way you speak, the way you act or behave and then the way others react or respond to you. Therefore, always Be Confident, Be Fearless and Be Classy!
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Making a great first impression is extremely important. This is because most people will judge you within the first 7 seconds of meeting you and would form an opinion about you instantly based on your appearance, demeanor, body language and most importantly how you are dressed.
It’s important to know that First Impressions are very hard to change, hence you've got only one shot at making a great first impression.
Let’s take for example, you are a first class graduate with an MBA from Harvard Business School. You sit for an aptitude test for a Bank job and pass exceptionally well. Then you are invited for an interview some weeks later and on the day of the interview you walk in dressed in a shredded jeans, a polo t-shirt and a slip-on.
Now pause for a moment….and think…
What do you think would be the impression of the interviewers the moment they see you walk in for that Bank Job interview?
Your guess is as good as mine, they are not going to take you serious even if you had scored 100/100 in the aptitude test. Before they even open your file to look at your impressive resume, they would have walked you out for being shabbily dressed. They would have formed a lot of opinion about you before even giving you the chance to prove yourself.
Is it fair that people make such assumptions in such a short amount of time without getting to know the person first? No it's not, but the truth is that YOU and I can’t help it, we’ve been wired that way right from birth.
7 WAYS TO MAKE A GREAT FIRST IMPRESSION
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1. DRESS FOR SUCCESS, LOOK THE PART AND ALWAYS BE MINDFUL OF HOW YOU APPEAR TO OTHERS
When you realize that 55% of first impressions are based on overall appearance, you just have to look good at all times. A good style lets you say great things about yourself before you even open your mouth. Dress well and always wear something that makes you feel awesome.
2. NEVER FORGET YOUR MANNERS, BE A GENLEMAN
Good manners always leave a great first impression. Use words and phrases such as "Thank You", "Please", "Please, after you", "Please, you go first", "And how about you?", “But if you’ll excuse me, I need to…” Also give compliments that encourage conversation.
3. BE POSITIVE ALWAYS, REMOVE NEGATIVITY FROM YOUR THOUGHTS AND WORDS
7% of first impressions are based on what we say and how we say it. Therefore, watch what you say, speak less and listen more. Your positive outlook in life will make for a great first impression.
4. BE EDUCATED, READ MORE and BE A GOOD CONVERSATIONALIST
As the saying goes, "readers are leaders." In order to be a good conversationalist, you have to be well-read because a good conversationalist is well-read, well-versed and well- rounded. When you are well-read, it is easily noticeable and will always leave a great first impression on anyone you meet.
5. LISTEN ATTENTIVELY
Listening attentively when you are having a conversation with someone or when someone is talking to you is a sure way of making a great first impression. When you’re talking to someone, give them your full attention.
6. BE CONFIDENT, BE FEARLESS
Lack of confidence translates to weakness and it’s a sure way of ruining an opportunity to make a great impression. No wonder the 50th Law of Power by Robert Green featuring 50 Cent focuses on being Fearless.
7. WATCH YOUR BODY LANGUAGE
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38% of first impressions are based on body language. This means Body language is a crucial part of first impressions. Everything from your posture to how you carry yourself to the way you walk, talk and act.
8. Number eight. Yeah, I just have to add this - EMULATE HARVEY SPECTER IN THE AMERICAN LEGAL DRAMA TELEVISION SERIES "SUITS".
Don't have so much to say about this, just click and watch this clip. If you haven’t seen the series yet, please go watch it, you would understand better when you do. Capisce? Si tu capisco.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Having understood that people judge you by the image you project through your actions, words and style, then it's important to give each new encounter your best shot. I will leave you with this quote by Epictetus "Know, first, who you are, and then adorn yourself accordingly"
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CHAPTER TWO
Most Unforgivable Fashion SINS – The 15 Commandments of Style
Do not be afraid. These Style commandments which I give thee this day are to be in your hearts, that ye may be mindful of these things to keep you from sinning - Mr. Kobi
When it comes to making a good first impression, dressing and grooming are of paramount importance – especially in the business world. Some men are ignorant of this truth by virtue of their unstylish lifestyle, some other gentlemen understand the importance of dressing well, what to wear and what not to wear, but yet continue to live in this great SIN – Fashion SIN every once in a while.
For those of you who are not aware of these common fashion blunders that all men should avoid in their professional and personal lives, this is for you, my hope is that you will study these commandments and abide by them. That you may abstain from all forms of Fashion Sins contained in this Style Guide as you read this today. For those of you who already know these things but continue to disobey these style commandments, repent today as you read this!
Here are lists of the 15 commandments that all men must abide by in order to continuously live a Stylish Life free from Fashion SIN. Enjoy!
1. THOU SHALT MATCH YOUR BELT TO YOUR SHOES
Ensure the color of your belt matches the color of your dress shoes. Black shoe should match with Black belt, same goes for Brown. Although I see a lot of guys wearing a coffee brown belt with a plain brown shoe, claiming in ignorance that it’s okay so as long as it’s
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Go to Table of Contents brown. This is pure blasphemy, you must always match the exact color shade. Thou must also ensure that the finish of the belt matches with that of your shoe, for instance if your shoe has a wet-look then ensure you match it with a belt that has a wet look. Generally, for corporate dressing you should stick to tiny belts, whereas for casual shoes such as sneakers and canvas, you should wear a thicker casual belt. Finally, wear a brown belt for any suit that's not black. No exceptions.
2. THOU SHALT NOT WEAR THE WRONG SOCKS WITH TROUSERS
The basic style rule for wearing men’s socks is “The color of your sock should match the color of your trousers”. Unfortunately many match their socks with their shoes, the ones that do this should ask for forgiveness and repent from their sins. This sin is ONLY pardonable, if it’s being committed for your style’s sake. For instance, when wearing bright colorful fashion socks [which obviously wouldn’t match with your trousers], simply ensure you avoid wearing them in extremely serious situations like important business meetings, funerals, pitching to potential investors [unless it’s for a fashion business].
3. THOU SHALT NOT WEAR DIRTY SHOES
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Many guys are guilty of this particular sin, amongst them are bankers, accountants, IT Professionals etc. Daily cleaning of your shoe is synonymous to spiritual cleansing for your body and soul. Hence it is important to take proper care of your shoe like a stylish gentleman would do, free of scratches and any form of dirty.
4. THOU SHALT NOT WEAR A BACK PACK WITH PROFESSIONAL ATTIRE OR NATIVE ATTIRE
This is very common among professionals. I see that a lot of guys commit this SIN all the time and all I can say in my heart is “Father forgive them for they do not know what they are doing”. It's very unprofessional for a man in corporate attire or native wear/traditional attire to bring a backpack to work. I don’t care if it’s more comfortable or safer for you, it is simply a Fashion SIN which you must avoid at all cost unless you are a student, an athlete or a maintenance engineer who has to carry heavy work tools in his back pack. For a business man you should buy a nice briefcase or a messenger bag, by so doing, you maintain the professional look.
5. THOU SHALT NOT WEAR IMPROPER TIE LENGTH
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A man’s tie should always end at the center of his belt buckle when he stands upright. Having a tie that’s too short or too long, can make a man look incompetent. Whether you are tall or short, ensure your tie length doesn’t extend more than your belt buckle.
6. THOU SHALT NOT BUTTON SINGLE BREASTED JACKET WHILE SITTING
You should always unbutton your single breasted jacket when sitting, while you may keep it all buttoned except the bottom button when standing. If your jacket has two buttons, when standing, only button the top one and leave the lower one unbuttoned. If the jacket has 3 buttons, you may fasten the top and middle button, but NEVER fasten the bottom/last button of your jacket.
7. THOU SHALT ALWAYS LEAVE THE LAST BUTTON OF YOUR DOUBLE BREASTED JACKET UNBUTTONED
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Never unbutton your double breasted jacket either while sitting or standing. This is because they have been designed that way so that the fabric overlap can be maintained. The general button rule for Jackets still applies, which is Thou shalt not fasten the bottom button of your jacket.
8. THOU SHALT WEAR DRESS SOCKS THAT ARE LONG ENOUGH
Your socks should always come up to your calves anytime you are wearing a trousers. You must not show any part of your bare legs, whether you are standing, sitting, walking or when you have your legs crossed. But when dressed in casual, it’s much better to wear short socks or go sockless.
9. THOU SHALT NOT WEAR WRINKLED CLOTH
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I have a former colleague of mine whose shirts is never neatly pressed, when I inquired as to why this is so, he always affirms that he ironed it. I figured out much later what was missing, - A Spray Starch. He never uses it, instead he sprinkles water on the shirt and irons it. First of all, keep all your clothes neatly ironed and wrinkle-free using a spray starch or better still invest in a good dry cleaner and he knows how to take care of your cloths. Secondly, it’s a good habit to always hang up all your clothes – never throwing them on the floor of your room after use.
10. THOU SHALT NOT WEAR THE WRONG TIE
By all means avoid improper Tie Length – too short or too long can make you look incompetent. Avoid improper tie width: If you’re wearing a tie as part of your casual outfit, go for a slimmer tie instead of the wider ones. Only wear the wider ones for the office. Avoid Big, Fat, Wide Ties. The general rule for the right tie width is – not too wide, not too narrow? However, I would say your tie width should be proportional to your body type and dress shirt. Simple.
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11. THOU SHALT NOT KEEP A BULKY WALLET OR A BULKY POCKET
We have all committed this fashion blunder at least once in our lives. But thank goodness for revelation, which confirms that it is a fashion sin to stay clear off. Walking around with bulging pockets is not sexy and stylish at all. If it’s your phone that is creating that bulge, have it inserted in your inner suit jacket or hold it in your palm when you walk. If it’s your wallet that’s creating the bulge, get a slimmer wallet or spend some time taking out all those credit card, debit card, business cards and receipts and only keep one or two you use on a weekly basis. Keep the rest in a safe place at home and only take them out when you need them.
12. THOU SHALT OBEY THE PRINCIPLES OF GROOMING
Always being clean and well groomed is mandatory if you want to make a good impression. Take proper care of your hygiene, Use Antiperspirant deodorant spray on a daily basis, wear inner vest to always soak up the sweat, if you grow beards, ensure you keep it neat
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Go to Table of Contents and well groomed. There should absolutely should be no hair underneath your chin on your neck area. Ensure you take your bath twice every day. Avoid dirty nails, take proper care of your hands and always keep your finger nails trim and dirt free. Remember, cleanliness is next to stylishness.
13. THOU SHALT NOT WEAR A NECK TIE WITH A TUXEDO
A Tuxedo must always be worn with a bow tie, no exceptions at all!
14. THOU MUST TUCK IN DRESS SHIRTS
Your dress shirts are long for a reason, which is it has to be tucked in. This is why you shouldn’t wear dress shirts for casual setting, but if you must, they must be tailored shorter to come just above your crotch.
15. THOU SHALT NOT WEAR ATHLETIC SOCKS FOR OFFICIAL AND PROFESSIONAL OCCASIONS
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The athletic socks is meant to be worn only for sports occasions or to the gym. When it comes to leather shoes, wear dark colored cotton or silk socks. Avoid all form of white socks by all means when dressed officially. There are more appropriate men’s dress socks, they come in different varieties, such as colorful, polka dot, funky and fun types.
FINAL THOUGHTS
In conclusion, don’t forget, your body is a temple — ensure you clothe it appropriately. Always keep your outfits coherent and matching in style to avoid committing these fashion sins.
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CHAPTER THREE Top 13 Qualities That Make You A Classy Gentleman
Classy means to be stylish and elegant; respectable and lovely; special and attractive; admirably smart and of high class
Some time ago, as I was about leaving for work in the morning, I saw a well-dressed, stylish young man walking down my street….seeing him from afar, I was quite impressed with his colorful outfit which he combined so well…until he got closer and I noticed he was munching akara (also known as bean cakes or bean fritas) with bread as he walked down. “Oh No! He didn’t! That’s not classy at all”… I murmured, before driving off.
Before I continue, I will like to highlight the key difference between a Classy Man and a Stylish Man.
Classy men are conscious of what they wear and what they do while Stylish men are usually more conscious of what they wear. A classy man holds himself with dignity and has a clear idea of his values in life, however a stylish man is more concerned about how he looks.
In summary - Most classy men are stylish gentlemen, however not all stylish men are classy gentlemen.
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Let’s look at five (5) different definitions of the word “gentleman” for better understanding.
Gentleman:
Something very rare today. A man who is respectful and considerate of those around him. Acts politely. Treats women with respect. Open doors for them, pulls out chairs, and is classy. What more guys should be. A man of calm demeanor, strong preserve, intellectual thinking, polite yet meaningful speak and a good upbringing. A well-mannered and considerate man with high standards of proper behavior. Something that is very rare in today's world. A gentleman is a real MAN who will normally open doors for a lady and generally be quite nice and polite. A man of independent means who does not need to have a wage-paying job.
With the above definitions, I’m sure you would agree with me that a stylish man isn't classy if he is NOT also a gentleman. So question of the day, Are you a gentleman? It's already an established fact that all Ladies love gentlemen not boys with SWAG. As the saying goes...Swag is for boys, Class is for Gentlemen!
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If you want to find out which category you fall under, whether you are a classy man or just a stylish man, please use these equations below:
A STYLISH MAN + GENTLEMAN TRAITS = CLASSY MAN STYLISH MAN – GENTLEMAN TRAITS = STYLISH MAN A STYLISH GENTLEMAN = A TRUE GENTLEMAN = A CLASSY MAN
So if your lifestyle doesn't completely fit into any of the equations above, then read on and learn how to be a classy man. Enjoy!
TOP 13 QUALITIES THAT MAKE YOU A CLASSY GENTLEMAN
1. THE CLASSY MAN HAS A HIGH AMOUNT OF CONFIDENCE
A classy man is by default a bold, confident and fearless man. He believes that nothing is impossible to achieve and therefore he goes about taking risks, having positive expectations and achieving success. He knows how to carry himself very well and he is very comfortable in his own skin.
2. THE CLASSY MAN HAS A UNIQUE PERSONAL STYLE AND UNDERSTANDS THE FASHION AND STYLE RULES
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It’s almost impossible to be classy without being stylish. A classy man uses fashion as a tool when it comes to finding specific wardrobe pieces that would highlight his personal style while ensuring they are appropriate. He understands the exact kind of clothes that is more appropriate for him in terms of shape, size and colors. If you need help developing your personal style, stay glued to this blog and in no time you will achieve it. If you missed the KOBI KOACHMAN 15 commandments of Style – click here to read.
3. THE CLASSY MAN KNOWS HE MUSN'T BREAK THE BANK TO LOOK GOOD AND BE STYLISH
The classy man understands value and quality. He also knows that “more expensive” doesn’t mean “more quality”. He is able to use simple resources to pull off a very nice look for any occasion be it formal or informal.
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4. THE CLASSY MAN HAS A VERY GOOD RELATIONSHIP WITH HIS TAILOR
A bad fit ruins a great piece of clothing. This is very common when the person in question have perhaps lost a significant amount of weight and still continues to wear same clothes. In this case, instead of wearing it this way it would be a good idea to hand it over to your tailor (a good tailor). Your tailor should be able to do a proper adjustment such that when next you wear it it’s as good as it was untouched. In addition, have your tailor make suits for you every now and then. If you need a tailor, please contact me.
5. THE CLASSY MAN DOESN’T SMOKE CIGARETTES AND ONLY DRINKS SOCIALLY
Classy men smoke only the finest cigars if at all they have to smoke something. The classy man also prefers spirits over beer, coffee over tea, cocktails over red wine. If you choose to
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Go to Table of Contents indulge in this do not abuse this privilege. Never smoke to impress anyone, only smoke during special occasions with your close friends and never get drunk while drinking.
6. THE CLASSY MAN IS MINDFUL OF WHERE HE HANGS OUT
A classy man is mindful of where he hangs out. He only hangs out in classy restaurants, hotels and bars.
7. THE CLASSY MAN DOESN’T FIGHT
As a classy man, you are different and this could stir up envy and aggression among other guys [including friends] causing them to want to pick a fight with you at the slightest opportunity. Simply take the high road and just walk away, cos by fighting, you reduce yourself to a child.
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8. A CLASSY MAN ATTRACTS THE ATTENTION OF MANY WOMEN, BUT ONLY HAS EYES FOR HIS LADY
A classy man usually has other women competing to get his attention, but he will never take his eyes of his lady no matter the pressure from other women. He is someone who respects women and treats them the way they should be treated. Also, a classy man does not do hookups neither does he patronize prostitutes.
9. A CLASSY MAN RESPECTS EVERYONE
He understands that his life is about service to others, not serving himself. A classy man listens to what everyone has to say. He never makes fun of other people. It's disrespectful in every way to make fun of peoples' imperfection.
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10. A CLASSY MAN NEVER BRAGS ABOUT HIS ACCOMPLISHMENTS AND NEVER WHINES ABOUT HIS PROBLEMS
Do not talk about yourself during conversations, or brag. Bragging is not classy in any way. Ladies will respect you and hold you in high regards if you are a good listener. Discuss only intelligent subjects. A classy man doesn't whine or complain about his problems. Never complain about how the world has been unfair to you.
11. A CLASSY MAN IS WELL EDUCATED, WELL READ AND SPEAKS PROPERLY
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Don't use your native dialect or Pidgin English in your conversation in a professional setting such as at work or when transacting business. In addition, avoid the use of curse or swear words totally, this shows lack of class. Build a wide vocabulary and read often (and widely). Become more well-informed. A good vocabulary is crucial to sounding intelligent and being intelligent.
12. A CLASSY MAN MAINTAINS GOOD HYGIENE
That means showering every day, wearing a nice cologne and deodorant, brushing your teeth, grooming your beards [if you have beards], combing and brushing your hair etc. You must also wash your clothes more often. You should wash your under wear (vests and boxers/briefs) daily after wearing. Last but not the least, always keep your room neat and tidy.
13. A CLASSY MAN TAKES HIS PASSIONS SERIOUSLY
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A classy man knows what drives him, so he focuses on pursuing his passions ardently in a way that reflects his innate talent and creativity. He also knows that he's strong and capable, even in his weaker moments. A classy man is out to get what he wants without deterring from his goals. He understands that his life is about service to others, not serving himself, and that’s what he does.
FINAL THOUGHTS
There you have it, a classy man is an all-round gentleman who understands both clothing and manners. He is a well-mannered and considerate man with high standards of proper behavior and etiquette. Strive to be a Classy Gentleman.
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CHAPTER FOUR 10 Things You Definitely Need To Stop Wearing After You Turn 30
It’s been happening for a long time now…at work, in the mall, in restaurants, at wedding events etc. however my experience yesterday evening at a birthday party organized by my 65 year old aunt had me thinking seriously about it.
It all started shortly after I arrived at the party, around 4pm. As I walked in, I couldn’t help but notice a young man who should be in his 30s – wearing a T-shirt that had in front of it the slogan “MY MONEY GROWS LIKE GRASS”. I was so ashamed, not just because of what he was wearing but he had his wife and two young sons with him…what style lessons are these kids gonna learn from him?
After I settled down, out of the corner of my eye I caught sight of 2 very well presented gentlemen drinking wine and having a chit chat. These guys should be in their late 30s and both were dressed in nice classy native wear attire looking dapper, but with a quick glance at their shoes I saw that one of them wore a tennis shoe with his native wear attire. Smh.
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Before I left, I counted at least 10 men who were literally swimming in their suits – their ill-fitting suits. I see this particular one a lot - almost every day of the week - at work, weddings and restaurants but yesterday's experience at the party influenced my decision to write this piece. I said to myself...It’s not really enough to tell men WHAT and WHAT NOT to wear, it’s also important to let men know how to dress appropriately for their age.
There are some outfit you probably would look cool wearing in your 20’s but would certainly look ridiculous trying to pull off now that you are over 30. At 30, everything about your worldview becomes a bit more mature, and this means your wardrobe style should also evolve as you transition from your 20s into your 30s and beyond.
So in an effort to help you not look like you're desperately holding on to your youth, check out these 10 items that no man should ever wear after 30.
1. Wearing Graphic Print T-shirts or Slogan T-shirts with Loud Logos
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Any middle-age man that still wears t-shirts that has a large skull with inscriptions on it or dragon spitting fire plastered on them, clearly doesn’t want to accept his real age. If he is a rock star, then we can understand, else there is no reason why any man above 30 should be dressed in any T-shirt meant for young boys or boy bands, for instance an Ed Hardy T-shirt. As a real man, when looking for nice t-shirts to buy, you should stick to simple but classic t-shirts with tiny or no logo. Ralph Lauren Polo and Lacoste t-shirts are a good idea.
2. Wearing visible undershirt underneath a button up shirt
Sorry guys, I don’t care if the undershirt is Ralph Lauren or Armani brand, an undershirt popping out of your dress shirt doesn’t look good at all. If you must wear an undershirt when wearing a button up shirt, you should choose the V-Neck type which by default sits lower. If you have also noticed, of recent most designer shirt brands that manufacture round neck undershirts design the round neck to have a low cut, so you could go for these types. For instance the LUX brand. This goes a long way to show you the importance of concealing the neck region of your undershirt when wearing a button up shirt.
3. Wearing a Shirt but showing too much chest
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There is simply no justifiable excuse for a 30-year-old man to show too much chest when wearing a shirt. I don’t care if you have broad hairy chest and you find it sexy enough to display to ladies in hopes that they can find it attractive…shhh… it doesn’t work that way…dude! You should never undo more than 2 buttons on your dress shirt. And let’s say you love V-neck t-shirt, simply avoid too deep of a V-Neck.
4. Wearing Socks with Sandals
There is no excuse for taking part in this fashion faux pas unless you are 30+ and still in secondary school, then perhaps we can assume “Oh! That’s part of his school uniform/dress code”. Think about it, Sandals are meant for cool comfort and ventilation, why then would you want to add socks to defeat the whole purpose. For those that claim “My feet are cold, that’s why I wear it”…I have a solution for you, wear close toed shoes if that’s the case.
5. Wearing Three-Quarter Length Trousers
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If they are not shorts and they are not trousers, please dash it out to your much younger nephew who is half your age, it would look much better on him. If your intention is to wear cropped trousers, there is a much better way to do it than to buy trousers that stop at the calf.
6. Wearing sneakers/tennis shoes with suits and native wear attire
Nowadays you find guys wearing tennis shoes with their corporate suits or native wear attires (Agbada and dashiki) and while it’s a trend “someone” out there is pushing so hard in hopes that all stylish men would adopt, I personally think it’s a no-no for any man who is above 30. There are a lot of nice and classy formal dress shoes as well as loafers that you can wear instead. However, if you are in the entertainment sector and you really want to take your business casual style to a whole new level by pairing your suit with something order than a formal shoe, consider certain kind of sneakers that are more appropriate than tennis shoes. According to GQ, here are list of approved sneakers than can be worn with suits.
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Recommended Read: What Men Should & Shouldn't Wear To the Gym
7. Wearing white socks with dress shoes
Once again, if you are 30 and still in primary or secondary school, then you might skip this part. But if you are a 30+ working professional or businessman and you still wear these…please continue reading. You should never wear a white socks for any other occasion other than for sports or to the gym. Choose a navy blue or black socks instead – no matter what you are wearing, you can never go wrong with these two colors, but if you are more fashion forward, try out some colorful socks.
8. Wearing Wrinkled Clothes
Looking like you slept in your clothes is highly inappropriate. At 30 you should not have any excuse arriving at any place - work or social function, wearing wrinkled cloth. “I’ve had no power for the last 3 days in my place”, “I was in a hurry, therefore I couldn’t iron”, “I actually ironed it but don’t know why it’s never straight”. I’m tired of hearing all these excuses. My advice is simple…keep all your clothes neatly ironed and wrinkle-free using a spray starch or better still invest in a good dry cleaning service, they are well trained to take care of your cloths and are never going to deliver a wrinkled shirt to you.
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Also, it’s a good habit to always hang up all your clothes – never throwing them on the floor of your room after use.
9. Wearing Clothes That Are Too Small or Too Big
This is really bad in every way. Skinny jeans, tight trousers, baggy jeans, oversized suits, oversized shirts etc…nothing has the power to create so much laughter than a grown up man wearing clothes that are either too small or too big for him. Always go for your perfect fit. Whether you’ve lost some weight or you’ve gained some weight, always adjust your clothes to fit you appropriately.
10. Wearing Backpack with Suit or Native Wear
This is very common among professionals, even the ones over 30. It's highly unprofessional to wear a backpack with suit. While these backpacks are okay for students, any middle-age man is better served by a sleek and stylish leather briefcase or messenger bag that hangs across your chest.
FINAL THOUGHTS
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I guess you must be wondering by now “Am I too Old for my outfit?” While style is not restricted by age, some fashion trends are just meant for young boys and not for adults. Today we’ve covered what not to wear after you clock 30, some other time we will be dealing with what not to wear after 40, 50, 60 etc.
Until then, lose the rebellious-teen uniform and avoid dressing younger than your age. Only stick to trendy clothing and styles which are very much appropriate for your age range.
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CHAPTER FIVE Top 10 Accessories Every Modern Gentleman Must Have in His Wardrobe
Fashion accessory is an item used to contribute, in a secondary manner, to the wearer’s clothing, often used to complete an outfit and chosen to specifically complement the wearer’s look.
There is no better way to redefine your style than by picking up some key accessories that will accentuate your overall look. The truth is, accessories separate the real men from the rest. After one must have invested in building his wardrobe, filled it up with clothing, next a man also need to invest in accessories because it is essential in complementing the outfit.
I am however, not oblivious to the fact that some guys don’t like or care about accessories no matter how much you try to convince them. In the course of my Fashion Styling business, I’ve worked with some male clients who rejected the accessory list which I came up with as part of my style suggestions during wardrobe consultation. When I tried to find out why, here are some of the most common excuses I get.
“I just hate wearing wrist watch”, “I don’t use wallet”, “Bracelets irritates my skin”, “Fashion rings are for ladies, not for men”, “My wife won't approve of my wearing any other ring other than my gold wedding band”, “I don’t like Pocket Squares, I feel I’m overdressed whenever I wear them” ….uhm…let me remember this particular weird line I once heard…oh yeah...here it is “Wearing sunglasses stretches my eye ball”…Oh
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And to the married man who says his wife won’t allow him wear any other ring other than a gold wedding band, I think you should introduce her to black and silver wedding bands – tungsten and gold types. They are my personal favorite – stylish, modern and classy. Trust me, she will love it and personally help you keep that gold wedding band of yours at the base of her jewelry box.
But I understand, there are some men who just like to keep things simple. If you are one of them, chances are you have something to gain from at least one accessory that will be genuinely useful. Check out this picture below and see if you don't have at least one (1) out of all the different accessories below.
Here is my point, there are various types of accessories which are essential - because they all make you a better man, however when shopping on a budget or when trying to upgrade
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So here are the Top 10 accessories a gentleman must have in his wardrobe, you could consider this as the minimum basic requirements for men. ENJOY.
TOP 10 ACCESSORIES EVERY GENTLEMAN MUST HAVE IN HIS WARDROBE
1. Wrist Watch
For many men, this is the one and only hand accessory which they invest in and it really helps if it's an exceptional timepiece. It’s better having one pretty nice piece than several grungy timepieces. It doesn't look nice when you see a man all dressed up in nice outfit only to be wearing a bad looking watch.
2. Belt
A high quality leather belt, just like an extra ordinary pair of shoes can last you for a pretty long period of time. Black and Brown are the basic colors every man should have in his wardrobe which should go with same shade of black and brown shoe. These colors are fantastic because they can easily match well with all your suits and will always stand out.
3. Wallet
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You should invest in good quality wallets, they come at affordable rates. A lot of men go for many years using same wallet without replacing it. This is really bad, it's very important for men to replace their wallet whenever it's wearing off.
4. Sunglasses
This piece of accessory provides full protection against the sun's ultraviolet rays. Other than this, sunglasses also add a touch of style to your look. There are many styles that are available, but ensure you choose the one that fits your face shape. While at it, remember it's not proper to wear sports sunglasses with formal wear such as suit.
5. Socks
When you’ve put time and attention into every other element of your look, slipping on a pair of dirty or worn-out socks is a big Fashion SIN that’s sure to get noticed. Believe me,
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6. Ties and Tie Clips
Behind every great tie is a greater man. There are a couple of things one should know about ties, the greater the number of ties that a man has the better. But be careful when buying ties, avoid cheap ties because they will always look cheap even if you pair it with expensive shirt and suit. Buy the kind of a tie that you can afford, but make sure it’s of good quality.
7. Cuff Links
Every guy needs a great pair of cuff links in his wardrobe. They’re elegant and help you keep your shirt cuffs in perfect shape. It's advisable to have a couple of them - sleeve stylish pairs which you can always rotate depending on your outfit and your mood.
8. Pocket Square
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Pocket Square is one classic and timeless accessory which every man needs to have. It’s one of the few menswear essentials which can have a great impact on the entire look if used correctly. It can be worn dressy to finish off a polished suit look or to add interest to your blazer. Also, pocket square is a great way to accessorize casual pair of denim, or a jacket with no tie. It’s very easy to incorporate into your style whether you are going for a corporate look, a business casual look or a native wear look.
9. Messenger Bags
Stylish messenger bags for men compliment a great looking attire. These are a sign of elegance and can be used to carry quite a number of items.
10. The Jewelry – Bracelets (Nautical Trend, Metal, Beaded and Leather), Tribal & Beaded Necklace & Fashion Rings
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Jewelry is another, simple way of making you stand out from the crowd. Asides your wrist watch, having a nice ring, bracelet or necklace is a transferable accessory that, if you know how to wear it, can go with a number of outfits. This applies at work, home or on your way out on a Friday night. And most importantly, it makes you stand out from the crowd.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Please note this list is not exhaustive and only includes the basics that all modern gentlemen must have. Basically, fashion accessories can be loosely categorized into two general areas: those that are carried and those that are worn.
Traditional carried accessories include messenger bags and brief cases, umbrellas, wallets, some tech gadgets, tablet computers with their sleeves and mobile phones and covers (yeah they are the new fashion accessory). Accessories that are worn may include jackets, foot wears, cravats, ties, hats and caps, belts and suspenders, jewelry and bracelets, rings, watches, scarves, socks, pocket squares, ties, tie bars and tie pins.
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CHAPTER SIX The 3 Shoes You Need To Stop Wearing and 3 Shoes Every Gentleman Should Own
A shoe has so much more to offer than just a walk. Shoes transform your body language and attitude, they lift you physically and emotionally.
Hardy Amies once said: “It is totally impossible to be well dressed in cheap shoes.”
This doesn’t mean you have to spend a fortune on your shoes, but a moderate investment combined with knowledge of the right pairs to acquire will surely make a huge difference when it comes to your style. So gentlemen, if you think you are well dressed, take a second to look down your shoes and see if you are right.
Any time I meet someone for the first time, after the way they are styled, the next thing that grabs my attention is his shoes. Every now and then, I see guys especially in corporate establishment, rocking a nice outfit – neatly cut well-fitting suit, nice shirt and tie, wonderful wrist wear and belt, but the shoe – hmm – the shoe is nothing to write home about. It’s either it’s not the right shoe that should go well with outfit (e.g. wearing suit with flat loafers and socks) or just not the right shoe for ANY occasion … yeah I really mean any occasion. You know those kind of shoes that should have gone into extinction together with lost species (for e.g. the all-famous Square-Toed Shoe).
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Funny enough, I still see people wear the square toed shoe and after I saw it again this morning when I stopped by an eatery to grab breakfast, I knew I had to write about this.
So today, I’m sharing these 3 men’s shoe types you need to stop buying and alternative shoe types you should buy instead. Enjoy!
3 SHOES YOU NEED TO STOP BUYING NOW
1. Avoid Square-Toed Shoes
This is that One Pair of Shoe You Should Never, Ever Buy! Avoid square-toe shoes by all means – Clunky Square-toed shoes were so popular in the 90s, fashion has now strayed far away from this non-classic look and they should never come back into fashion. They’re clunky, they’re not elegant, they’re not stylish, they usually come in form of lace-up or sometimes they come in loafers. They look horrible and you should avoid them at all cost. So if you still have them in your shoe closet, please discard them and get some slimmer and much more attractive shoes.
2. Avoid Overly-pointy shoes
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Avoid extremely pointy shoes, especially those that raise up at the toe. Those kind of shoes are made for elves and unless you are an elf, you shouldn't be wearing it. It just doesn’t look good and I know I have said this before in previous articles on shoes and believe me I will say it again because it just doesn’t seem to get through. A shoe should never be too pointy, too round or too square, they send the wrong message.
3. Avoid Rubber Sole Dress Shoe
Men should absolutely avoid buying rubber sole dress shoes. Unfortunately this is a very common style sin! One main reason why men go for rubber soled dress shoes is because they are often more affordable than quality, leather soled dress shoes. But the truth is dress shoes are dressy, therefore you need a quality leather sole to go with it. Another disadvantage is that rubber soles could be dangerous when walking on slippery or wet surfaces, a good leather sole won’t let water in even if it’s raining.
You have heard it, now let's go over to the type of shoes you should own.
3 SHOES EVERY STYLISH GENTLEMAN SHOULD OWN
Every man needs at least one a pair a Monk Strap (double monk strap), Brogue Shoe (Derby Wingtips) and Oxford Shoe.
1. Brogues
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Brogues were traditionally considered to be outdoor or country footwear and not appropriate for casual or business occasions, but in this modern age they come in a number of variations and are so versatile such that they are suitable for all occasions no matter what you are wearing - jeans, trousers or chinos. Brown Brogues can be dressed up or down while the black ones go for work or for fancy nights out.
2. Oxfords
Originally, Oxfords were plain, formal shoes, made of leather but they evolved into a range of styles suitable for both formal and casual wear. This variation of the brogue brings you an altogether different look. The classic Oxford is just the right shoe for that special occasion that you might be required to attend. You can choose a plain toe or cap toe, but stay away from the broguing, or decoration. So buy at least one pair of Oxfords and always make sure to keep them polished and shiny.
3. Monk Strap
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Gents, this is the dress shoe of the season and they are for the bold stylish gentleman. Single or double, monk strap shoes are a fantastic option. They are a great way to stand out from the crowd (because hardly do guys wear them). So if you want a break from laces every now and then, a stunning pair of monk straps is the answer. Isn't it time you joined the order of the monk-strap?
FINAL THOUGHTS
Shoes are one of the most important aspects of your wardrobe – this goes for both men and women. They are the first thing people notice, they speak louder than your words, so it’s important to choose and invest wisely. Even if your outfit is top-notch, people will think less highly of you if you are not putting on nice shoes.
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CHAPTER SEVEN Tuxedo Guide| The Black Tie Dress Code For A Gentleman And His Lady
From the Duke of Windsor in the 30s to 007 - James Bond, Evening wear or Black Tie as it’s commonly known remains the standard for formal attire.
The other day, I happened to deliver an outfit meant for a black tie event to one of my most loyal clients [for the sake of this article, let’s call him Mr. X]. Mr. X contacted me about a week ago that his company is organizing a black tie event/dinner party and that he wanted me to style him for the occasion.
During my consultation meeting with him, he started to share some ideas as to what he thought would be okay for him to wear. I was listening attentively till the point when he asked me the question – Hey, Mr. Kobi, can I just wear a nice shirt, bow tie and well- tailored trouser, a waist coat and ignore the jacket, just to be different in an attractive way and also…? That’s when I interjected his question just like Kanye West would if Taylor Swift was on Stage. I said “what!, oh no Mr. X, that’s not gonna work, that’s not your dress code, that’s what the male waiters most likely will be wearing, you know what let me tell you what items are a must have and won’t have for any black tie occasion” and then I started to analyze and spell it all out the basics for any black tie event.
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A waiter ready to serve
The basic components of black tie are:
a black dinner jacket with matching trousers an optional black formal waistcoat or cummerbund a white formal shirt with wing collar a black bow tie black dress socks black formal shoes and other accessories.
Read further as I break it down for you one by one – Enjoy!
#1. JACKET
The Jacket must be sleek and clean. The back should not have any vents, however if it must have vents, only double vents is allowed. A peak lapel is the most formal option, but
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#2. WAIST COVERING
The waist covering is optional, but when you decide to wear a waist covering, you have two options (a) the rare U-shaped full-back evening waistcoat with straight bottom. This waist coat which is best suited to a peaked lapel single breasted jacket and not with double breasted jackets (b) the more common black cummerbund made from silk to match the jacket facings can be worn around your waist instead of a waistcoat. It's best suited to shawl lapel jacket.
#3. TROUSERS
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Trousers for a Black Tie event should have plain hemmed bottoms, no cuffs/turn-ups at the bottom. They should not have belt loops and should never be worn with a belt. The trousers should not have pleats. They can be worn with or without suspenders, though the suspenders must be either black or white. It should be same material and color as jacket. They can be black or midnight blue, the only acceptable colors for a black tie event. They should be slimmer towards the ankle, meaning boot cut trousers are not acceptable.
#4. SHIRT
It should be white fabric either pleated, plain or piqué/Marcela. For a black tie event, you should choose a turn down collar instead of wing collar (which is more appropriate for a white tie event). Although in this modern age, wing collars are used with black ties. If you are wearing the pleated white shirt, ensure it is tight and neat instead of bulging out in front which doesn't make it smart. Either a fly front (concealed buttons) or French placket (buttons on show) is acceptable. It must be French cuff/double cuff as well and should be worn with simple but elegant cufflinks - black, white or silver.
#5. THE SHOES
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First of all, a black tie event isn't the time to experiment with different types of shoes and colors. So no Brogues, No double or single monk strap. It must also be a black shoe, well- shined and smart. But if you have black patent leather shoes you could also wear them. Oxfords or Pumps with a satin or silk bow on the top is also acceptable.
#6. NECKWEAR
Never rock a long neck tie to a black tie event. The only neckwear allowable is a black bow tie and should be hand-tied. To tie a bow tie is not difficult, and can be easily learnt. It's just like tying your shoe lace. Watch this video link to learn and then practice.
RELATED POST: HOW TO WEAR A BOW TIE – An Introductory Guide | Styles for Gentlemen
#7. SOCKS
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Black silk socks are preferably, although you can wear black wool or cotton socks. However if you are bold enough to pull off colorful socks with evening wear, by all means do so while keeping it simple too.
#8. POCKET WEAR/HANDKERCHIEF
This is optional, however, if you wish to wear a something in the breast pocket then you may wear a simple silk or linen white coloured handkerchief or a white and black polka dot pocket square. The idea is keep it simple.
#9. BOUTONNIÈRE
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A flower may be worn. Red and white carnation, blue cornflower, and rosebud have all been popular at times. In France, the boutonnière is usually a gardenia, and boutonnières and handkerchiefs are not worn simultaneously.
#10. SUSPENDERS
This is also optional. But the rule says - Never wear a belt, even if hidden by a cummerbund. Instead wear suspenders, preferably black, if you need to keep your trousers up.
#11. WRIST WEARS
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Traditionally visible timepieces are not worn with formal evening dress, because timekeeping is not supposed to be considered a priority. That's why pocket watches are more appropriate. However times are changing, nowadays you can wear a nice authentic subtle chain wristwatch. You cannot wear a Rubber or Sports wrist watch to a black tie event.
BLACK TIE EVENT FOR LADIES:
This is a night for you to look your most gorgeous, dress your best in your evening wear and come out to have fun! The choice of whether to over dress or under dress in your formal attire should be a function of the nature of invitation itself. A simple get together party from 6pm to 8pm will require only a little black dress, while a more lavish affair to celebrate someone’s monumental achievement or an end of year party will require more. In simple terms, the greater the effort of the host, the greater the level of formality expected of you as a guest.
GOWN: Wear a long formal gown or a shorter fancy cocktail dress that is black tie appropriate. The choice is based on what suits you, your legs and your age. Older women prefer long formal gowns while young ladies feel more suited to short gowns. The Colors to keep in mind for the gown: black, jewel tones, emerald, ruby and amethyst.
JEWELS: Bring out your best jewels, with plenty of sparklers (but tiaras are inappropriate). Sparkly ear rings and bracelets are expected as well.
SHOES: Also wear high heels instead of flat heels.
BAG: Your handbag should complement your dressing. And there are specific types of handbag suitable for evening wear, see details below to choose from.
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Type of Bag Description Type of Bag Description A long, narrow shape Slim clutch, shaped like an envelope, BAGUETTE like a loaf of French ENVELOPE often with pointed flap bread Lacks straps or A hard case bag, either a clutch design CLUTCH handles, meant to be MINAUDIERE or with a strap held Features strap to be A small bag with a strap to secure it to CROSS-BODY WRISTLET worn across the body the wearer's wrist
FINAL THOUGHTS
In summary I will leave you with an Expert’s advice on Black Tie
“There should be nothing more exciting to the fashionable male than receiving an invitation that requests ‘Black Tie’ – take the opportunity to invest in a high quality tuxedo in an exacting fit that will last for years to come – shawl collar models in slim fit styles are very much on trend. If you are buying your first tuxedo, resist the urge to splash out on the velvet tux and opt for a virgin wool model with a small amount of elastin for stretch and comfort. Black is of course the quintessential choice however a midnight blue is particularly versatile and you’ll be surprised how many outfits can be created with this color for other occasions. Finally, don’t dumb it down with a necktie, choose a brilliant white shirt with a semi-spread collar, complete with a bow-tie in the same fabric as the lapel, choose a shiny patent leather shoe and tuck that invitation into your jacket pocket with confidence.”
– Matthew Keighran, Managing Director, HUGO BOSS Australia
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CHAPTER EIGHT
25 Suit Rules All Men Need to Know
A man can’t be called a gentleman if he doesn’t know how to wear his suit
I once got a job to make 2 suits for a new client. The guy in question had never owned a suit before, this was going to be his first.
As always, I try to understand what kind of job my client needs then I tailor my pitch to their job while suggesting my ideas on the design as well as other details which I think would look nice on them – such as the fabric, the right color for the skin tone and other additional accessories that will complement the overall look.
A couple of questions came to mind while I was considering the kind of the suit I’ll make for him. Things like…what would be the best colors to make for him - considering this was his first, would it be double vent or single vent, would it be single button or double button? Should I go for notch or peak lapel? And most importantly, what occasion does he need these suits for, is it for work, for a special event or for both?
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After I decided what was suitable for my client, I thought it was important for him to know Suit Rules that would guide him when rocking his brand new bespoke suit once it arrives.
I decided to share some basic suit rules all men need to know. So this article is for my client, my fellow menswear stylists, the tailors and all dapper gents out there.
These rules basically tell you how to choose a suit, how to get them tailored, the shirts, ties, shoe and watches to wear with them and best of all – how to look great in a suit. Enjoy!
25 SUIT RULES ALL MEN NEED TO KNOW ON SUITS
Rule #1
Your first suit should NOT be Black. Go for either a solid navy blue or a solid charcoal grey, these two colors should be the first two suit colors you should get. Always choose a charcoal grey over a black suit. When you must have had 3-4 suits you may then go for a black.
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Rule #2
Choose the right Lapel type – There are three basic forms of lapels: notched, peaked and shawl. The shawl lapel is most suitable for dinner jackets/tuxedos. Notch lapel is ideal for single-breasted suits, blazers and sports coats. Not recommended for double-breasted suits and tuxedos. Double-breasted suit should always have peak lapels. They are also appropriate on single-breasted suits and you’ll often see these lapels on pinstriped fabrics.
Rule #3
Thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old-school. Choose wisely.
Rule #4
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Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable than single vents.
Rule #5
The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.
Notch Lapel
Rule #6
When you get your suit home, you’ll need a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors. Un-stitch the jacket’s pockets, remove the tack stitches from the jacket’s vents, and remove the little embroidered label from the jacket’s left sleeve. Do this very carefully to ensure you don’t actually rip the fabric or neighboring threads.
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ON SHOES
Rule #7
As a general rule, a Black Formal shoe will go with nearly all suit colours. However you can make more of an impact if you go for a brown or tan shoe when wearing either a Navy/Blue or Light colour suit. You should match your shoes to the color of your suit using this rule:
Black Suit = Black Shoe Charcoal Grey Suit = Black Shoe Light Grey Suit = Black Shoe or Brown Shoe Any Shade of Blue Suit (Navy, Powder Blue etc.) = Brown Shoe or Black Shoe Brown Suit = Brown Shoe
Rule #8
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Your belt should be fairly thin and should be the exact same color as your shoes. Black and Brown (including different shades of brown such as tan) are preferred for a corporate look.
ON BUTTONS
Rule #9
If you’re going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.
Rule #10
The top button of a two-button suit (or the middle button of a three-button suit) should fall at or above the navel. No matter what you do, NEVER fasten the last button of a single breasted suit. If a single breasted suit has 1 button, the button should always be buttoned when standing and unfastened when one sits down. If it has 2 buttons, the top button should remain buttoned, while the bottom button is left undone. With 3 buttons, you have options. You can either button the top two and leave the bottom unfastened, or simply button the center button.
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Rule #11
Always unfasten the buttons on your suit when you sit down. NO exceptions
Rule #12
The bottom button of a vest/waist coat should always be unbuttoned.
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Rule #13
Never fasten the bottom button of a double-breasted jacket (unless it has only a single row of buttons).
ON TIES
Rule #14
The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.
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Rule #15
Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt. A bold tie should be paired with a subtle shirt.
Rule #16
Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your trousers, or the center of your belt buckle.
Rule #17
Your tie bar should never be wider than your tie
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ON FIT
Rule #18
For a proper-fitting jacket, you should be able to fit a fist between your chest and the fabric.
Rule #19
Your sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch. For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck.
Rule #20
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Make sure that your socks are long enough that there’s no exposed leg when sitting down. Also experiment with colorful socks
Rule #21
For a more fashion-forward look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe (No Breaks). For a more conservative look, the pants should cover the top of the shoe and parts of the laces (Quarter Breaks). For a modern man, quarter or no break should be one of your ideal style, be it pants or chinos/khaki. Avoid the trouser length reaching the sole of your shoe. Avoid double folds as well.
ON ACCESSORIES
Rule #22
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Do NOT over-accessorize. A pocket-square, a tie bar, a collar pin and a lapel pin is too much at once. If you're already wearing a pocket square, a tie bar and a collar pin, you'll want to reconsider that clever lapel pin.
Rule #23
A pocket square is one of the few menswear accessories which can add an extra level of polish and elegant touch to your suit. Avoid matching it with your tie either in pattern or fabric choice, instead find colors that complement the outfit. You find a lot of men matching their ties to their pocket squares, just for the sake of ease and by so doing it removes the taste it adds to the outfit.
Rule #24
Never wear a sports watch with a suit. Get yourself a proper watch, one that shows you're fully invested in every last detail of your appearance.
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Rule #25
Never wear a Backpack with Suit, opt for a nice briefcase or a messenger bag.
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CHAPTER NINE 10 Fashion and Style Tips for Large Men – How to Dress to Make Yourself Look Thinner
I understand, you are on the big side, you are already in the process of losing weight. In fact it’s in the top list of your new year resolution this year, you’ve enrolled in the gym and also started observing a proper healthy diet plan, however while you are in the process of losing weight, you still want to look great in nice clothes but don’t know how or what will work for you. Don’t worry, I’m gonna let you know in a short while ‘cos I’ve been there before and I know what it feels like.
At some point in my life, I just couldn’t wear T-shirts and polo tops, because of the 10- pack abs that surrounded my abdominal wall. I tried as much as possible to convert it to six-pack, but couldn’t even bring it down to the 8th within the timeline I set for myself. But I still loved to look great so what did I do, I started adjusting my style of dressing to match my body frame.
These style tips helped me look great while I worked so hard to shed off some weight around my mid-section and achieve a flat/ripped abs.
So same goes for you, while you are trying to loose excess body weight or belly fat, here are the style tips that you can follow and ensure you look great and stylish all the time.
1. FIND A GOOD FIT - TAILOR YOUR SUITS AND BLAZERS
Clothes that are too tight or too baggy will make you appear larger. So for large men, the first thing you should consider when choosing or buying your clothes is the fit. Your clothes should be well fitted but not tight. Wearing clothes that are too tight will reveal the
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2. AVOID BUYING STANDARD DRESS SHIRT SIZES
Just like 1 above, it’s advisable to tailor your shirts since the standard sizes available in the market could possibly not give you the exact fit you want. Take for instance you decide that an XXL size is your dress shirt size, how about the sleeve length or the dress shirt length? If you are not so tall, maybe you’ve got a short torso or an oddly short arms for your overall height and body size, this could be a challenge. The shirt could size you in terms of your body size, but the sleeve length could be longer than your arm length.
3. AVOID ROUND NECK T-SHIRTS AND POLO SHIRTS - INVEST MORE IN LONG- SLEEVED COLLARED SHIRTS
T-shirts and polo shirts especially the big billowy ones tend to emphasize weight and stomachs. You want to take away attention from your belly bulge and weight around your mid-section. You are not going to achieve that by wearing round neck t-shirts as you will always draw attention towards your big round tummy and you don’t want that. As much as possible, wear your dress shirts untucked as they tend to hide the round large stomach. But be mindful that this is an informal dressing and should only be worn like this in informal settings.
4. WEAR MORE OF V-NECK SHIRTS AND OPEN COLLAR SHIRTS
Large men usually have short and large neck line and sometimes double chin, this tends to make their neck disappear and invariably make them look shorter and bigger. Due to the deep V cut neck style, wearing a V-neck shirt is a perfect way to reveal your chest area thereby shifting focus from your neck to your chest and by so doing it makes your neck line look slimmer as well as your torso appear longer.
5. AVOID BOLD PATTERNS
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Don’t wear any form of bold patterned or bright colored shirts as it draws the attention to your waistline. Choose darker solid colors such as black, navy blue, maroon and gray. For large men, dark plain colored tops are always the best option as they make you look thinner and you can pair them with nice denim jeans or matching chinos trousers.
6. AVOID HORIZONTAL STRIPED SHIRTS
Stripes generally do make you look fatter, unless they're narrow or thin vertical lines. Therefore, avoid striped shirts, but if you must wear them, stick to narrow or thin vertical stripes. Avoid horizontal stripes entirely.
7. AVOID WEARING DOUBLE BREASTED SUITS – WEAR ONLY SINGLE BREASTED SUITS
The double breasted suit tends to emphasize width, so it’s not a great choice for large men. It is best for men of average, to above-average height as well as for a slender man who wants to add width or bulk. Suits, blazers, and sports coats are also good options for a large man as they are going to frame the body perfectly.
8. AVOID IMPROPER TIE LENGTH AND WIDTH
Ensure your neck tie is long enough such that it is able to reach the center of your belt buckle while traversing through your large, round bulging stomach. A large guy wearing a thin tie looks a bit odd, so only wear at a minimum medium-sized ties. In general, your tie width should be proportional to your body type and dress shirt, therefore avoid thin ties if you are on the large size.
9. WEAR BOLD ACCESSORIES TO DRAW ATTENTION AWAY FROM YOUR BODY
Just like I mentioned earlier in No. 8 tip above with the tie example, your accessories should be proportionate to your body size. If you are on the large size, it’s advisable to wear bold accessories that are proportionate to your body size. This goes for your bracelets, wrist watches, rings etc. But don’t overdo it, simply choose a few of them and keep them in proportion to your body frame.
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10. AVOID IMPROPER PANTS LENGTH - CHOOSE THE RIGHT SOCKS FOR YOUR TROUSERS
When you are on the large size, it’s important to wear clothes that generally would make you appear taller and slimmer. Wearing improper pant length be it in the name of style, fashion or by mistake won’t make you look tall. Avoid folding your chinos or jeans. Wear your pants long to reach about half-inch above your heel, this would make you look taller and slimmer. Also, for longer-looking legs - avoid colorful socks if you are on the big size. Wearing socks in shades that complement your trousers and shoes will avoid any stark contrast between them – for instance, if you are wearing a navy blue trousers, wear a navy blue socks and when wearing a black trouser, stick to a black socks.
FINAL THOUGHTS
As a large man, the secret to dressing smart and stylish is to enhance your best features while drawing away attention from those features you don’t love that much (such as your pot belly and short neck line).
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CHAPTER TEN The Power of A Pocket Square | 7 Easy Ways to Fold A Pocket Square
We all know that accessories are the spice of an outfit, and can make even a basic outfit stand out. Are you looking for that one stylish fashion accessory that can instantly boost your outfit? You know what it is already. It's the Pocket Square.
Pocket Square is one classic and timeless accessory which every man needs to have. It’s one of the few menswear essentials which can have a great impact on the entire look if used correctly. For those of you who always try to keep it cool, simple and plain with your outfits, I just want to let you know that it is highly essential that you find ways by which you can spruce up your outfit with extra details using men’s accessories that will elevate your overall look.
So you've heard it here - The one particular accessory which you can use to accentuate your look is the POCKET SQUARE. It's very easy to incorporate into your style whether you are going for a corporate look, a business casual look or a native wear look.
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Some of you gents reading this already know about the pocket square but have never owned one before, while some others own a couple of them but haven’t been bold enough to rock it either for fear of "overdressing", fear of wearing the pocket square wrongly or simply not knowing how to fold it or how to incorporate it in their outfits appropriately.
Now there are a few others - the stylish gents, these ones are aware of The Power of a Pocket Square, they know that the use of pocket square is a way to add that extra element of life to an outfit and they are able to incorporate it effortlessly in their dressing and keep on rocking it in style, adopting different style of folds every day of the week.
If you are still doubting the elegant touch of a pocket square to an outfit, do think about some of the world's most dapper gentlemen (including fictional male characters), I'm talking about the likes of Mr. Bond (James Bond), Don Dapper, Jay Gatsby, Clark Gable, you name them...they are all sharp dressers and they all wore pocket squares.
I get a lot of questions pertaining to Pocket Square whenever I'm styling a client. Questions like "What's the best way to fold a pocket square?” So, I'm going to address it here.
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The truth is there are several ways to fold a pocket square - some are simple while some are more difficult, in the next section I am going to make it easy for you by showing a number of different fold types and easy steps to take in order to achieve any fold type you want. I have also included a video from The Rules of Style to illustrate it so you can keep on viewing and practicing till you learn. So sit back, Relax and Enjoy!!
HOW TO FOLD A POCKET SQUARE - 7 TOP FOLD TYPES
1. One Point Pocket Square
Lay your pocket square flat with one corner facing up and one corner facing down.
Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner.
Fold the left corner to the right.
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Repeat and fold the right corner in to the left.
Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket.
2. Two Point Pocket Square
Lay your pocket square flat with one corner facing up and one corner facing down.
Fold the bottom corner up and just to the left of the top corner.
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Fold the left side in towards the right.
Fold the right side in towards the left.
Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket.
3. Three Point Pocket Square
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Lay your pocket square flat with one corner facing up and one corner facing down.
Fold the bottom corner up to the top just to the left of the top corner.
Fold the left side towards the right, and up to the right of the "middle peak".
Fold the right side straight across in to the left.
Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket.
4. Flat Pocket Square
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Lay your pocket square flat with the two top corners horizontal.
Fold the the left side over the right side.
Fold the bottom up just short of the top.
Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket.
5. Puff Pocket Square Fold
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Lay your pocket square flat with the two top corners horizontal. Pinch the middle of the pocket square and pick it up.
As you pick up the pocket square tuck the sides in as in the diagram. Don't worry it may take a couple of trys to get it just right, but soon you will have it perfect.
With one hand firmly holding the pocket square, use your other hand to gently gather it closed.
Now gracefully gather up the bottom of the pocket square.
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Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket.
6. Three Stairs Pocket Square
Lay your pocket square flat with one corner facing up and one corner facing down.
Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner.
Fold the front fold partially down so that it goes past the bottom of the pocket square.
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Now take the same fold and fold it back up towards the top of the pocket square.
Now fold back towards the bottom of the pocket square. Be sure and keep your folds neat.
Fold a small fold towards the top of the pocket square. You may want to gently press with an iron.
Pause, and take a look at your pocket square folds so far. It should look basically like the illustration.
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Now this is a little tricky: fold the right half of the pocket square behind the left side. You will still see the folds if done correctly.
Now rotate the righthand corner of the pocket square 90 degrees. Then fold the left side to the right.
Fold the right side to the left and we are done.
Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket.
7. Winged Puff Pocket Square
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Lay your pocket square flat with one corner facing up and one corner facing down.
Fold the top corner down to meet the bottom corner.
Fold the top left and right corners down and in.
Fold the left, right and bottom corners in.
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Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket.
SOME PICTURES OF POCKET SQUARES
FINAL THOUGHTS
Having looked at the different styles, I will suggest you experiment with all of them for now and then later on choose one or two styles you are comfortable wearing and make it your signature fold.
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CHAPTER ELEVEN How to Match Ties to Pocket Squares
When it comes to matching your tie with your pocket square, only one rule applies and this is that - they shouldn’t exactly match.
A pocket square is a very important part of every gentleman's wardrobe, but sadly is one that is overlooked by many. This simple but powerful menswear accessory makes a nice touch if you incorporate it well in your outfit.
I've written quite a number of articles on this all important accessory. The very first one was on The Power of a Pocket Square | 7 EASY WAYS TO FOLD A POCKET SQUARE. In another article titled 25 Suit Rules All Men Need to Know I mentioned an important pocket square rule in the 23rd Suit rule. See below
#Rule 23: Avoid matching pocket squares with your tie either in pattern or fabric choice, instead find colors that complement the outfit
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While many people would argue that it's okay to match them, matching your ties with pocket squares cut from same cloth simply goes a long way in showing you always love to keep it safe when it comes to color coordination of your accessories. This could be boring sometimes and when repeated consistently, it is guaranteed to make one look like he lacks taste. As a Stylish gentleman, you should never wear exactly matching accessories, but rather you have to go the extra mile with a little color coordination.
Unfortunately, these days you see so many fashion brands and department stores selling matching ties and pocket squares to their customers in combo packs. A lot of men are always excited when they walk into a fashion store and see the matching set - they are like "What a relief! The burden of thinking how best to match my ties and pocket squares have been lifted off my shoulder"
Sorry, but that is… Boring.
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For those that buy these matching sets my suggestion would be to not match them together in an outfit, but rather pick either the pocket square or tie from one set and match it with another tie or pocket square that would go well with it. Take a look at the color wheel below...
A short course in "Colour Analysis" could help you especially if you are not naturally gifted when it comes to combining colors exceptionally well in your outfit. But today, I’m going to give you some ideas for matching ties with pocket squares. So get ready to mix things up. Of course not just any colors will look good together, but don’t worry this guide will help you choose the right pocket square for any tie you own or you intend to buy.
How to Match Ties to Pocket Squares
Basically when next you want to wear a tie and a pocket square, here are the elements you should consider - COLORS, PATTERNS & PRINTS and FABRIC:
1. COLORS
There are different ways to figure out which colors go together well.
A) For a contrasting effect: Go for complementary colors, such as yellow and purple; red and green or blue and orange
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A combination of complementary colors involves choosing two colors that are found on exact opposite sides of the color wheel. These colors are highly contrasting and look very bold if put together.
B) For a more subtle look: Go for analog colors such as yellow and orange, green and blue or blue and violet
Analog colors basically means that you will be choosing one color from the spectrum, skip one and then choose the next one. These combinations are very simple yet highly elegant.
C) A neutral tie goes best with a colorful pocket square and vice versa. Although neutral colored items (black, white, grey or beige) can be combined with any other color, so if any one of the items (either tie or pocket square) is a neutral color, you can always match it with any color you want for the second item.
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D) When wearing a white shirt you can opt for a white pocket square, especially if your jacket is navy blue or black. In this case, you can choose any color of tie you want (just as stated above - white is a neutral color).
2. PATTERNS & PRINTS
Let's look at 3 different cases and see how best to combine it.
A) CASE 1: Solid colored Tie vs. Patterned or Print Pocket Square
In this case, choose the patterned/print pocket square that has at least one of its colors as the color of the Tie. Alternatively, you can choose a pocket square that has a lighter or darker shade of the solid colored tie reoccurring on the pocket square.
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B) Case 2: Patterned or Print Tie vs. Pattered or Print Pocket Square
First thing you must know is that you should never match patterns of same size or same patterns together. If you have a tie with pattern, prints or stripes, you can go for a pocket square of same pattern so as long as the patterns, prints or stripes on the pocket square is not of same size as that of the Tie. For example, if your tie has thin stripes, you can combine it with a pocket square with thick stripes or you could go for a different pattern such as a large polka dot. If the stripes on the tie are thick, you can go for a smaller polka dot pattern.
C) CASE 3: Patterned or Print Tie vs. Solid Colored Square
Similar rules from Case (1) above would apply. In this case, one of colors of the tie can be the color of the pocket square or you can pick one of the colors of the tie and then choose a pocket square of a darker or lighter shade of the color you chose.
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3. FABRICS
When it comes to fabrics, there is one main rule - The fabric of the pocket square should not be same as the fabrics from which the jacket and tie are made. If you are wearing a suit made from wool, a nice silk pocket square would do. You can add a light weight-cotton pocket square if your suit or jacket is made from a fine and smoother material.
LOOK BOOK INSPIRATION
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FINAL THOUGHT
You could decide how you wish to match your tie to your pocket square so as long as you don’t match exactly. You should try different combinations to see which one works best.
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CHAPTER TWELVE An Introductory Guide to Men’s Native Wears - What to Wear & What Not to Wear
"The true definition of native wear is a piece of cloth, worn by a native bushman for hunting activities" – Xi (the bushman who thought that coke bottles were evil gifts from the gods)
Xi was the title character in the movie - "The Gods must be Crazy" and was portrayed by - Nǃxau Toma. Ok, Xi may not have made that quote exactly as it is above, but I'm sure that's how the English men interpreted the thong he wore throughout the movie - as a "native's wear".
Xi at end of earth wearing his native wear
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Now let me take a moment and give a better explanation of what a Native Wear is.
Native Wear also known as Traditional Wear, Native Outfit or Native Attire is mostly common in Africa hence it's also known as a Native-African attire. Over the years there have been huge improvement from what "native wear" was back then and what it is now. See what I mean below...
Native Wear Top - 19th Century - 1820
Four Hausa Men Rocking Agbada in 1902
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Mr. Uti in Dashiki Native Attire
Some of the trends which were in existence back then are coming back now with a bit of refinement in design. Things like the popular Agbada have been in existence since the 1800s and they are coming back in style today.
Kaftans [with length almost sweeping the floor] were also popular in the 90s, but they are back in vogue, more refined to lengths just below the knee and with a bit of English touch to it such as the use of double cuff design in the wrist section such that it can be worn with cuff-links.
Considering this trend, who knows, a few years from now Xi’s native wear style mentioned earlier could be back in vogue for men as an outer garment. I hope this doesn't happen though :)
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Back then the character Xi wore his own native wear without any footwear or sandals, but today we have all manner of foot wears available for us to choose from namely loafers, boat shoes, moccasin, boots, dress shoes etc.
The negative side to this is that the Foot Wear brands do not give advice on what clothes are appropriate for certain kind of shoes they make.
As a lover of native wears, a Brand Ambassador of African Fashion Week Nigeria and an advocate of African Fashion, I hope to give a few style advice with this article on the appropriate foot wears to put on when rocking your native wear as well as other rules that apply.
Mr. Kobi at AFWN Press/Blogger Brunch in Feb 2015
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RULES THAT APPLY WHEN WEARING NATIVE WEARS
The General Rule:
Ensure the trouser length is reaching just on the top of the shoe and not sweeping the ground when you walk. To be safe, ensure your tailor’s measurement of your trouser length stops just at your ankle. Not before your ankle (unless you choose Jump-Up Style) and certainly not after (irrespective of what you choose).
RELATED POST: Friday Style Inspiration | Classic Native Wears – A Tailor’s Work vs. A Fashion Designer’s Work
WHAT NOT TO WEAR
FOR FOOT WEARS
#1. Avoid wearing your simple native wears with dress shoes or any other form of Lace-Ups Men's Shoes
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NOT ACCEPTABLE - Dress Shoes with Lace
#2. Avoid wearing socks with your shoes when wearing native wears, there is no excuse for this even if you live in Antarctica or Iceland.
Some people might be wondering, how are they going to survive all the sweat, stink and perspiration without socks, I would say go for “Half Socks" [NOT Ankle Socks]. There are several no-show socks brand in the fashion market that place a big emphasis on comfort and style. Find them and buy if you must wear a socks.
NOT ACCEPTABLE when wearing native wear
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Native Wear and Half Socks is acceptable
#3. Avoid wearing your native wears with Canvas shoes, Running/Sports shoes for men, no matter the type, we frankly don’t care about the Brand or how expensive it is, it just doesn't work.
Sports Shoes is not acceptable
#4. Avoid wearing native attires with Leather Slippers for special occasions or events such as Wedding, Cocktail Parties, Grand occasions etc. But you can wear this if it’s for a simple look or casual business or when hanging out for drink or any other leisure activities, just make sure you are wearing a classic one.
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Mr. Noble Igwe dressed on simple native with Slippers for a simple business casual look
#5. Avoid wearing native wears with Rubber Flip Flops or any form of bathroom slippers, even in an emergency situation. I don’t care if you are rushing to the scene of an accident, simply change to Shorts and Tees if you must wear the rubber flip flop in an emergency.
These are meant for the bathroom...Nothing more to say
FOR ACCESSORIES
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#1. Avoid wearing native wears with sports wrist watches, same way sports watches should never be worn with a suit. It is frowned upon by many a fashion expert so try to avoid making this fashion faux-pas.
#2. Avoid wearing native wears with belts. It doesn’t matter if you are trying to match your shoe and belt color, the rule just doesn’t apply here. The trousers are supposed to fit to your exact waist size or made with adjustable strap on the side.
WHAT TO WEAR
FOR FOOT WEAR
#1. For all types of natives, you can wear loafers, moccasins, boat shoes, and all other shoes that are not dress shoes (no lace-ups). See below images.
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#2. For some special kind of native wears such as Senators, Agbada and long Kaftans, you can wear any nice shoe, so as long as it’s not lace up. Some examples of these shoes include Single or Double Monk Strap Leather shoes and other simple non-lace up Dress shoes with or without Tassels.
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Mr. Kobi wearing a Blue Suede Loafers with double Tassels
#3. You can wear Sandals [Nice Leather Sandals] with your native wears, this especially fits Agbada, Dashiki and Kaftans.
Nice sandal suitable for an Agbada native wear
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Mr. Noble wearing an Agbada and nice classy Sandals
FOR ACCESSORIES
#1. You SHOULD wear your native wears with ONLY leather wrist watches (preferably) or nice gold or silver wrist watch. Never with a Sports wrist watch.
#2. You SHOULD wear your native wear with bracelets. Fill up your wrists with different types and colors to match your outfit. Just make sure the wrist bracelet complements with the color of your native wear. Some example are metal bracelets, nautical trend bracelets, Beaded Bracelets, Leather & Woven Bracelets. This is a trend very popular among the modern stylish gentlemen these days.
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#3. You CAN wear your native wear with nice and simple beaded necklace or normal chain necklace. Avoid the very bold ones though as much as you can especially for serious event.
BONUS PICTURES OF FEMALE ON NATIVE WEAR
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Yemi Alade/Toyin Aimakhu
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CHAPTER THIRTEEN HOW TO WEAR A BOW TIE – An Introductory Guide | Styles for Gentlemen
When you wear a bow tie, doors open for you. Your posture is a little more erect; your shoulders are a little further back; your style is a little more dynamic. It's about the reestablishment of the gentleman - Dhani Jones
The bow tie is the most classic of all ties. It easily stands out when worn properly, gives one a formal and elegant appearance whether it’s worn to the office or for a black-tie occasion such as wedding or cocktail party.
To its devotees the bow tie hints at intellectualism, whether real or feigned, and sometimes suggests technical acumen, perhaps because it is so hard to tie. Bow ties are usually worn by politicians, magicians, doctors, architects, lawyers and professors and by people hoping to look like the above. But perhaps most of all, wearing a bow tie is a way of broadcasting an aggressive lack of concern for what other people think about you.
Justin Timberlake once said “A gentleman can never have too many bow ties”. Think about it for a moment, here are some iconic Bow Tie wearers
First is Mr. Bond, James Bond, the very first bow-tied gentleman on the list. Bond have worn different bow tie styles over the decades usually with his tuxedo or dinner suit. This
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Roger Moore as James Bond
Karl Marx was also one of the many notable people of the 19th century who were photographed in bow ties, which were conventional attire of the time.
Karl Marx
Winston Churchill was often photographed wearing a polka dot bow tie.
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Winston Churchill
Others include – Charlie Chaplin, the renowned comic actor, Manolo Blahnik, the shoe designer who sports a "signature bow tie"; Abraham Lincoln, 16th President of the United States; Nation of Islam leader Louis Farrakhan and Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, former Nigerian Minister of Agriculture - a man known for his bow tie and mustache.
Charlie Chaplin
Manolo Blanick
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Abraham Lincoln
Louis Farrahkan
Akinwumi Adesina
BOW TIE STYLES FOR GENTLEMEN
The image below shows the most common styles of bow ties.
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Image Source: www.blacktieguide.com
A lot of gentlemen have adopted the bow tie as their signature look, and friends, family and colleagues have come to identify them with that type of tie. So you might want to join the league of exquisite gentlemen – adopt the bow tie style.
Some people would say - if you don't know how to tie a bow tie, you should buy the pre-tied bow ties to save time. However I think any gentleman who has decided to adopt the bow tie look as his signature look must first learn and master the art of tying a bow tie. So here is a video on How to Tie a Bow Tie by HowCast. Watch, Learn and Practice.
FINAL THOUGHT
Bow tie wearing can be a notable characteristic for an individual. True gentlemen need bow ties and really cannot get enough of them. I hope that by reading this, you’ve been inspired to join the league of extraordinary bow-tied gentlemen.
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CHAPTER FOURTEEN
10 Rules For Wearing Suspenders. Number 1 is a Must!
How can you trust a man who wears both a belt & suspenders? The man can't even trust his own pants”- Frank, in the movie Once upon a Time in the West
Suspenders (referred to as braces in Britain) is one of the very few classic men’s accessories used to judge a true gentleman. It was as though this stylish accessory went extinct for a while, but guess what? They are back! and this time around, they are here to stay.
Sometime ago, I wrote An Introductory Guide To Wearing Suspenders and if you've read it you will agree with me that suspenders are truly a timeless fashion accessory for men that offer both function and style. So today we are going a step further to talk about the rules for wearing men's suspenders. So gentlemen, here are the Top 10 Rules you should consider when wearing your suspenders.
TEN (10) RULES FOR WEARING MEN’S SUSPENDERS
#1. NEVER WEAR SUSPENDERS WITH A BELT
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Here is that one formular you must always remember as far as wearing suspenders is concerned.
Belt + Suspenders = Bad Dressing
Trousers with belt loops are meant for Belts, but can still be worn with Suspenders. However, Trousers without belt loops (but have side tabs and/or buttons) is best for Suspenders, and should NEVER be worn with a Belt.
However, if you have decided to stick to suspenders, have your tailor remove the belt loops of any trousers worn only with suspenders, and replace with buttons on the inside of the waistband to accommodate button suspenders. Alternatively, have your tailor make new high waist stylish trousers that will be perfect for suspenders.
#2. NEVER WEAR SUSPENDERS WITHOUT A JACKET (FOR PROFESSIONAL LOOK)
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Unless you are Larry King, when wearing your suspenders for work or a special occasion, it is best to keep them tucked away beneath your suit jacket. Although, you can remove and hang your suit jacket when within your office/work space but when going out [perhaps for meetings], you must remember to put it back on. This rule does not apply when you are wearing suspenders for a casual look, for instance pairing it with chinos or jeans.
#3. CHOOSE THE RIGHT TYPE OF SUSPENDERS - BUTTONS vs. CLIPS
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There are basically two types of Suspenders, the Button-on type and the Clip-on type. For professional look/settings, you should wear suspenders that utilize buttons not clip. Wearing suspenders with metal clips that clip to your waistband of your trouser, are considered less professional.
#4. CHOOSE THE RIGHT STYLE OF SUSPENDERS - Y-back vs. X-back
In terms of style of suspenders, you can either opt for y-back or x-back styles. Y-back suspenders form a "Y" on your back and X-back suspenders form an "X". X-back suspenders provide better support because they can be spaced wider apart, but they are both adjustable and can easily hold your trousers up and firmly.
#5 NEVER WEAR THE "H"-BACK STYLE OF SUSPENDERS
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Never wear the “H” style of suspenders, they were the first style that came into existence and are now outdated. So if you still have these, perhaps it was handed over to your dad from your Grand Pa and from your dad to you, please keep it where they belong - at the base of your big cloth box and that's if you can't burn them. Please help us all, terminate its existence...never hand it over to your son.
#6. CHOOSE THE APPROPRIATE SIZE OF SUSPENDERS
Although suspenders can be adjusted to raise or lower the pants, it is still advisable to consider the size when buying. Ensure you choose the right length when shopping for suspenders. If you are very tall it’s best you go for long suspenders to avoid slouching when walking.
#7. CHOOSE THE APPROPRIATE TYPE OF TROUSERS FOR YOUR SUSPENDERS
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Note that high-waist trousers are typically considered best for suspenders. Low-waist pants are designed to work best with belt and they offer less support for your stomach. Have your tailor make high-waist trousers for you if you've decided to stick to suspenders instead of belt.
#8. ENSURE YOUR SUSPENDERS MATCH WITH THE COLOR OF YOUR SHOE, SAME WAY YOUR BELT SHOULD MATCH
If you are wearing dress shoes in combination with suspenders, the color of your suspenders must match the color of your dress shoes (important for professional occasions). However, if you are just new to suspenders, I'll suggest you first maintain black colored ones as these are popular because of their flexible neutrality. When you've become comfortable wearing that one color and you plan on getting more, then you can experiment with different colors while maintaining the basic rules.
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#9. ENSURE YOUR SUSPENDERS LEATHER AND METAL BIT COMPLEMENTS YOUR ENTIRE OUTFIT
Match the leather fabric found on the ends of suspenders to your shoes, in the same way you would match a belt. Make sure the suspender’s color matches or compliments with your tie, shirt, or other colors in your outfit. In addition, as a general rule, you should also match the metal part of your loafers, suspenders and cuff links. If it’s gold in color, ensure your cuff links, metal bit of your loafers, and metal bit of your suspenders are gold as well. Same thing goes when it’s either black or silver.
#10. FOR A CASUAL LOOK, CHOOSE ONLY CLIP-ON TYPE OF SUSPENDERS
It's true that suspenders will go with everything from your corporate attire to your casual ensembles and really some men love to pair suspenders with a more casual look. However,
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FINAL THOUGHTS
I hope I've been able to share enough tips on how to wear this stylish accessory which is fast becoming a must-have fashion item for modern gentlemen. I also hope these pictures above have given you some idea on how to wear a pair of men’s suspenders yourself.
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CONCLUSION
Congratulations! You've made it through the entire Men's Style Guide! I really appreciate you reading this and I hope you found it helpful. I also hope I've inspired you to get started on your journey towards becoming a stylish and classy gentleman.
Now that you are ready to start implementing all you've just learned, I will leave you with one last charge – Go confidently in the direction of your dreams! Live the life you’ve imagined.
Continue to Do Well, Live Well and Dress Really Well.
Yours in Style,
Kobi O. Mbagwu
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Kobi O. Mbagwu (Mr. Kobi) is a professional style consultant, menswear blogger & entrepreneur who uses fashion to change people’s lives. Driven by a lifelong passion for men’s fashion, style and quality lifestyle he founded MRKOACHMAN.com, a men's fashion & lifestyle blog. With this style guide he hopes to satisfy his lifelong urge to tell men how to become well-rounded gentlemen. Mr. Kobi currently lives in Lagos, Nigeria.
“My personal goal is to help gentlemen dress better, live well, do well and develop a unique personal style that matches with their lifestyle and goals. I believe that success can be built through style. I believe that fashion is a tool that can be used to change people’s lives positively. I strongly believe that if you dress well, you look good, and if you look good, you feel good and when you feel good, you worry less, and the less you worry the more you are able to stay motivated and focused in your goals pursuit and by so doing you are able to live a more fulfilling and successful life.” – Mr. Kobi
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COPYRIGHT
The copyright on this work belongs to the author, who is solely responsible for the content.
First Edition. March 2016 | Copyright 2016, KOBI KOACHMAN FASHION LTD. All Rights Reserved
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