WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 1

Wrangell St. Elias News

“Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty” Volume Thirteen Issue Four July & August 2004 Two Dollars Kennicott River Service Bridge Some call it Freedom!

After

he Kennicott River valley has always Tdrawn exceptional men—men of vi- sion and indomitable will. Michael Heney, Stephen Birch, John Barrett—names from Kennicott and McCarthy's not-too-dis- tant past, of men who saw the incredible po- tential of this far-flung, craggy wilderness, and defied conventional wisdom and the laws of nature in order to make their vision a reali- ty. Some McCarthy residents of late are add- ing Keith Rowland to that list after he funded Photo courtesy Keith Rowland and almost single-handedly built a 220-foot vehicular bridge across the Kennicott River, Before performing the installation in an incredibly short 7 weeks. Now, if only the government would get things done that fast… Story page 6 Also in this issue:

NPS Reg. Dir. Meets ROW page 5

Hoola on the mountain page 8

Photo courtesy David Rowland McCarthy celebrates

4th of July page 10 PAGE 2 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 A note from the publisher over the last couple of months - appeared in an item of interest or cCarthy area resi- right in the nearby neighborhood! a separate article, but there just Mdents cannot say they Rick and I enjoyed meeting wasn’t any more space. We just did not experience a Troy Hvass’ mom and step dad. received news that Sally Kabisch, genuine summer this year. In fact, Sue and Ed Slater stayed in one of wife of WSEN subscriber Tom Kiz- McCarthy hit an all-time high of our B&B cabins. They live in Van- zia, passed away on June 20. Our 89 degrees on June 19. Many lo- couver, WA. but keep up on the deepest sympathy goes to Tom cals dug out their shorts and went McCarthy news by subscribing to and his family. barefoot. Eleven days out of June WSEN. Troy made sure the Slat- WSEN welcomes aboard the were in the 80’s and 9 of those ers had plenty to do while they following subscribers: Jack John- days were in the mid to high 80’s. were here; in fact, they stayed an son, AK; Rose Cherrix, VA; Daniel According to the weather records extra day because Troy kept com- Talcott, WA; Sharon Getz, MT; R. for this area the previous high ing up with exciting activities such Dennis and Cynthia Wiancko, OR; temperature was 87 and was set in as flightseeing, 4 wheeler trips, Patrick O’Donnell, VA; David June 1969. (This is beginning to dinner parties and quality visits Felts, NJ; Rob Wesson, CO; Her- sound like George’s weather col- with Troy’s friends and neighbors. man Kurth, WA; Craig Neill, TX; umn. I better let him fill you in The Slaters had a grand time in Richard and Elizabeth Barlow, AK; next issue — this is his area of our town. They promised to re- Virginia Phipps, PA; Ron and expertise!) turn, but next time Sue is deter- Loyce Krogel, OR; Dolan Collins, On June 26 smoke from a vari- mined to make it in time for the WA; Dale Merritt, WA. ety of Alaskan forest fires blew July 4th festivities. into the McCarthy area and for Speaking of July 4th, if you had about 5 days we lost sight of our been passing by the east channel Wrangell St. Elias favorite mountains. Eventually the swimming hole on Sunday night at News rains came and the smoke gradu- 4 PM, you would have seen quite VOL. Thirteen, Issue Four, July & ally dissipated. We were glad! an interesting sight. Nearly 40 August 2004. With the summer season people gathered for a water bap- Published every two months at comes new faces, either visiting tismal service. The church group McCarthy, Alaska. McCarthy, PO our area for the first time or ones from Bethel Church of Fairbanks Box MXY, Glennallen, AK 99588- 8998. Phone (907) 554-4454. FAX that come to McCarthy/Kennicott and their pastor Paul Holmes (907) 554-4494 every summer to work for a local chose McCarthy for this very spe- E-mail: [email protected] business. Bryan McCully is a new cial occasion. Several of us from “Copyright © 2004 by Wrangell face. He is a guide with St. Elias the McCarthy-Kennicott Commu- St. Elias News. No part of this pub- Alpine Guides. Skylar Kline, a nity Church attended the service lication may be reproduced by any guide for Kennicott Wilderness and rejoiced with the 5 candidates means without the express permis- sion of the publishers.” Guides, has been coming to work and those who were celebrating the greatest of all freedoms— Contributors to this issue: Peggy here for several years now. Both of Guntis, Laurie Rowland, Susan these young men made several their spiritual freedom. It’s very Smith, Ron Simpson, George Ceb- trips to the WSEN office to use possible this was the first time the ula, Robert King, Dorothy Adler, our Internet service. Not only are swimming hole was used for such Kevin Smith, Lynn Welty and Neil they both mountaineering guides a glorious event; I pray it won’t be Darish. the last! Subscription price is $11 for one but they are each taking college year in the USA. Canada $12.50. classes online — complete with I know I have mentioned this Other countries $20. Advertising taking tests. Bryan is studying an- before but this page is normally rates upon request. Deadline for thropology and Skylar, computer the last page that is written. This publication in next issue is August design. Starband services are cer- gives us one last opportunity to 15. tainly changing the opportunities mention items that are very im- PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT GLENNALLEN, AK. 99588. for people in the McCarthy area. A portant to us (and some of you!). few more dishes have popped up Many of these items would have WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 3 Items of Interest

Barbara drove up from St. Kim’s) home on the hill. That is Howard and Chris Haley: Louis with a friend who kept her one subject Peggy and I didn’t There is terrific news out of the company on the long drive. Short- venture into today – Jim’s projects Haley household these days! How- ly after she arrived, Barbara set up for this summer. I’m sure we will ard has retired from the teamsters camp at the West McCarthy Way- get there, however, as our after a long 30 years. He worked side. Because she and John hope Rummikub/chess games will be- in Valdez at the Alyeska Oil Termi- to have a small custom house (on gin this coming Thursday night. nal and called Valdez home. the pattern of a Kennicott cot- I’ll keep you informed! Things are changing for the Haleys tage) built this summer on their Welcome back, Jim and Peg! and they decided to celebrate with property west of the Kennicott Scott, Sally Wallin and daugh- a trip – traveling to the beaches of River, the decision was made for ter Anna: Writing about the Homer, Whiskey Gulch and Ninil- Barbara to stick around the area. Guntis’s brings me to the Wallin chik to dig for butter and razor Before long she landed a job at family. As most of you know, Sally is clams. Mountain Arts Gift Shop in down- Jim’s daughter. The Wallins also live They are back home – mean- town McCarthy. In her spare time in Tucson. Last fall they (Scott, Sal- ing McCarthy now – and Howard is she visits the property, makes ly and Anna) purchased a piece of not wasting any time in making plans for their home-away- from McCarthy area property down the the most of his retirement. He and home and is talking with local road from Jim and Peggy. If you’ve Chris are planning the new addi- contractors – gleaning from their been reading WSEN for awhile, you would have come across an item or tion to their cabin which will expertise. If all goes as planned, two of interest about this special (eventually) include an enclosed John will fly up in August and give family as they have made a variety of porch, master bedroom on the Barbara a hand with further deci- trips to this area. ground flour, a utility room and a sion making and accompany Bar- Scott and Sally drove the Alcan bathroom. bara back down the Alcan. By the time the Rices leave the area, they in their “glorified” bus (a school Another “new” addition is the hope to see the start of their bus made over into an RV) and An- arrival of Abby, a 10 month old dream come true. na in her pickup truck. They made Blue Heeler lab mix. Abby was a it here before Jim and Peggy. Short- surprise gift to Chris from Howard Barbara and John, we wish you ly after their arrival, Rick and I Christmas Eve. both the very best! walked down to say hello. Sally It is apparent to all that the Jim and Peggy Guntis: The greeted us at the door of her Haleys are looking good these Guntis’ just arrived for the sum- “home” on wheels and invited us in days and wearing their retirement mer. Although Peggy is busy un- for coffee. well. Congratulations, Chris and packing, she took the time to hop Perhaps it is just a womanly Howard! on their 4 wheeler and come over thing, but I really wanted to see in- for a cup of tea! Jim and Peggy Barbara and John Rice: The side. I didn’t waste any time before own and operate an electrical con- word retirement made me think of inspecting Sally’s kitchen area and tracting business in Tucson and bathroom. Scott, with the help of Barbara and John. The Rices are stay more than busy. Retirement his father-in-law Jim, outfitted the looking down the road and mak- may be in the picture but, like the bus with all the amenities of home. ing their plans, too. John will be Rices, it hasn’t quite become a I was impressed! Running water, a entering the retirement force in reality YET. However, I do see the beautiful bathroom and Sally’s the next couple of years, and he signs of that happening. For in- kitchenette, complete with curtains and Barbara are wasting no time stance, Peggy is stocking up on a and small vases of freshly-picked in deciding where they want to library of good reading material wildflowers. spend some of their free time. You and Jim continues to make life Summer plans include a drive- guessed it. McCarthy! easier for them with his continual way (that is already done as of press upgrades to their (and daughter time), a well, and a small cabin PAGE 4 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 where Anna, 23, will live through Drew says the new location is diligently keeping records, the fish the winter months. This will be her “functional and good.” Many long weir that he tended for 27 years and first winter but certainly not her river rafting trips are planned this kept a data base for and the yearly first visit to the area. Before Anna year from McCarthy to Chitina and garden that always produced extra arrived she had acquired the Chitina to Cordova. A few day trips produce for neighbors and friends, receptionist’s job at Ma Johnson’s are also in the making. will be carried on by the family, says hotel. She loves meeting the guests A 14-day river trip starting from Phil. and seeing that they are comfort- the head of the Nizina Glacier and A burial service was held later in able during their stay in McCarthy. ending at Cordova was expected to the day and attended by family A big welcome to the Wallins! be completed on July 4th. members and close friends of the Trig Trigiano: Another familiar In spite of all the work Drew fell family. Cliff’s ashes were interred at face to McCarthy is Trig. Within a into on arrival to McCarthy, he final- the family cemetery which “Ampa” few years, the west side of the Ken- ly was able to take some time off, he – a nickname used by family and nicott may be referred to as the says, and visit the surrounding area. friends – designed himself. Phil’s “retirement community.” Although That included a trip down the road first wife, Judy, is also buried at this Trig enjoys his work with the Uni- to see Mark Vail. He even squeezed site. versity of Alaska, I am convinced he in 5 or 6 river trips. Comments were heard from sev- is plotting and planning his future Welcome to the McCarthy area, eral people, such as: “It was the nic- days of leisure. With each trip to his Drew, and hope your season is full of est fly-in in years” and “it was an cabin he brings in more building adventure – the fun kind, of course! ideal service, one that really hon- materials to make life easier. He has ored Ampa.” 41st Annual Long Lake Memo- brought in so many supplies that rial Day Fly-in Breakfast: I received Kennecott Kid misses historic the “old truck” just couldn’t take a phone call from Phil Collins the tour: Nels Konnerup, 87, who lived another heavy load. It died! Trig is other day. It was perfect timing. I and worked at Kennecott on the now sporting a new 1-ton Ford 350– was planning to call him and his aerial tram and in the mine system his first truck with air-conditioning. wife Carolyn for an update on this was scheduled to accompany Ron (Works great for those dry summer special annual event at Long Lake. Simpson’s special historic tour on days driving the McCarthy Road!) Phil and Carolyn’s summer June 4. Prior to the tour, Nels was Trig planned his trip over the home is on the hill and overlooks in an automobile accident that pre- 4th of July so he could take in the the lake. As many of you know, vented him from attending and as- yearly McCarthy festivities. Wel- Phil’s dad, Cliff, passed away last sisting Ron in a tour of Kennecott. come back to the neighborhood! year. This year’s fly-in breakfast was He was greatly missed! Drew Southard: Another wel- in celebration of Cliff’s life. Inger Ricci, another Kennecott come is in order for Drew Southard Good weather was of great im- Kid, was in attendance and writes, – official guide for Copper Oar. Last portance to those who attended. “Ron surely had some great slides. year he was running the rivers in The day before and the day after it We had a wonderful trip.” The only Oregon for Destination Wilderness, rained but the day of the breakfast, down side was Nels’ absence. parent company of Copper Oar. the sun shone bright on the 143 in If anyone – Kennecott Kid or Drew hails from Colorado but told attendance. Truly an answer to others – who would like to drop Nels me he thinks Alaska is a great place prayer, says Phil. a note of encouragement, you may to see, at least for awhile. He plans Twenty-seven land planes, 1 write him in care of his sister to return to Colorado when the sea- float plane and 1 helicopter made Yvonne Lahti, 20420 Marine Drive, son is over. In the meantime, he is their landings on either the Collins’ Apt. B6, Stanwood, WA 98292. staying more than busy. In fact, he grass airstrip or the nearby lake. We are praying for a speedy re- says he arrived just in time to help covery, Nels! the other guides move the Copper Long-time family friend, Steve Oar office and outbuildings to a new Alexander, and associate minister at location. They had been situated on Christian Love Center in Wasilla, the McCarthy Road near the foot- led the memorial service. Phil and bridge but they are now on the new son, Mike, and daughter Karen Col- road that leads to the Kennicott lins Strahan, all shared special River Service Bridge – informally memories of Cliff and the things dubbed “Freedom Lane.” that he dearly loved doing each summer. The 70 swallow houses that Cliff so faithfully monitored, WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 5 NPS Regional Director meets with ROW

wanted the agencies under his con- ennecott: – Approximate- trol, which includes the National Kly 40 people gathered on Park Service, to do two things: One: June 2 to meet with the put people first. Two: become good National Park Service’s (NPS) Alas- neighbors. We would say the same ka Regional Director Marcia Blaszak things to our new superintendent at the Kennecott Rec Hall in down- whom you will choose.” town Kennecott. Other traits that came forth Ms. Blaszak offered an invita- from those in the audience includ- tion to the Residents of the ed: One who understands Alaska Wrangells (ROW) in a June 18th bush and subsistence lifestyle, an- email: “I will be in the swers questions clearly and quickly, McCarthy/Kennecott area on July 2 WSEN staff photo stays out of the residents’ private and am interested in introducing Alaska Regional Director Marcia Blaszak lives, honest, people and user myself to Residents of the friendly, a local friend, uses funds Wrangells’ members... I hope to wisely, has a vision for usage of the meet as many of you as possible and “Speaking of honor, we find this backcountry and local businesses, share some of the current activities trait to be the most desired. We ask respects and embraces the values underway that I believe will help for a superintendent who is honor- and resources of the community meet some of the objectives out- able — one we can show honor to. members and understands that this lined in your mission statement. I One who is not a slanderer but one park is a different park than those will share with you where we are in who is upright, has integrity and in the lower 48 because of ANILCA. our search for a new superintendent moral character. Our hearts, as Res- The deadline for applications for Wrangell-St. Elias National Park idents of the Wrangells, is to re- was midnight July 2. Both Director and Preserve. I am also coming to spect the badge, the office and the Blaszak and Deputy Director Vic listen.” person who sits in the position as Knox will evaluate the applications Superintendent. Grateful for the opportunity to and make their selection. They hope ease tensions between ROW and “Of great importance to us is a to choose a new superintendent by NPS, Chairperson Susan Smith re- superintendent who respects and October or November. sponded to the Director’s invitation follows the law—in particular ANIL- Knox, a 26-year veteran of the with a resounding “yes.” CA, the constitution for this park, NPS, also addressed the group. He even if his or her personal philoso- First on the agenda was Direc- has been in Alaska for 2 years and phy might differ from the law. tor Blaszak’s request for input de- hails from Salt Lake City where he scribing desired traits for the next “We request this superinten- served as an assistant regional di- superintendent of the Wrangell-St. dent have an administrative, not law rector, a liaison between NPS, com- Elias National Park/Preserve enforcement background. A super- munities, the state, local and state (WRST). With the June departure of intendent who will use his law en- delegates. A civil engineer, Knox Gary Candelaria, past superinten- forcement rangers for legitimate also supervised construction proj- dent, and, due to the mountain of law enforcement activities — not to ects. dissatisfaction that grew during his intimidate and harass residents and According to Knox, because of a administration, ROW members were visitors. request from Governor Murkowski glad to participate. “The Residents of the Wrangells the NPS and the State are presently In a prepared speech, ROW desire to work with the new superin- working on a user’s guide for access member Bonnie Kenyon addressed tendent and we request one who is to inholdings, statewide, hoping to the Director: willing to work with us and all resi- make the process easier to under- dents, not just the environmental “Director Blaszak, first of all stand. Taking a fresh look at the community. thank you for extending an invita- NPS regulations, Knox admitted tion to the Residents of the “Last, but certainly not least, is they were “somewhat confusing.” It Wrangells to share several impor- a superintendent who has the heart is hoped that the guide will be avail- tant traits that we would like to see of a public servant. In 1980 Presi- able for public review sometime in in the next superintendent. It truly dent Ronald Reagan told his new December of this year. Secretary of the Interior that he is an honor. (continued on page 21) PAGE 6 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 Kennicott River Service Bridge — ready to roll!

Once the bridge spans reached Since 90 feet of steel decking is CCARTHY, AK— Keith our equipment yard in McCarthy, pretty heavy (55,000 pounds, or so), MRowland has a B.S. in the in-house work began. Roughly transporting just one of the spans Engineering and has 10,000 pounds of structural rein- the roughly one mile from our yard designed and built several vehicle forcing was added to the bridge in to the bridge site was a big job. and pedestrian bridges, all still in accordance with an engineer’s spec- With the deck suspended by chains service. Even so, the engineering, ification to modify the spans for our between our loader and rock truck, building, and installation of the application. Over 2000 pounds of Keith and his father, Ken, very slow- Kennicott River Service Bridge have welding rod were consumed in the ly and carefully eased it along the been a logistical challenge of stag- process of making structural modifi- road leading to the bridge site. It gering proportions for one man and cations on the bridge spans and was pretty tricky going—our heavy a small fleet of equipment. earth-moving equip- ment seems so big and For the bridge decking, beefy, but for this job two pre-engineered 90-foot what we have is painful- bridge spans were located in ly inadequate. The ma- central Washington. The chines were maxed to spans were trucked to the Se- the limit. Our 10-year- attle waterfront where they old son, David, and were loaded on a barge bound Grandpa Ken in the for Valdez. Once they arrived loader had a tense mo- in Valdez, Keith picked them ment when the machine up and trucked them, one by suddenly tipped for- one, to McCarthy, with his ward, rear wheels spin- father, Ken Rowland, and I ning in thin air and driving the pilot cars. Each front rigging gouging span was so wide, long, and into the road with a heavy that the State of Alaska bone-jarring crunch! It required special over-weight, building the bridge piers. took all day to carefully maneuver over- length, and over-width permits the span into place, but by the end The two piers which support the for their transport, as well as the of the day, they had it lying neatly bridge spans were fabricated using two pilot cars. Because of the nar- across the river between the two four-foot diameter pipe with one- rowness and tight corners on the 60 piers. miles of brain cell scrambler known inch thick steel walls and an en- as the McCarthy Road, the longest larged base. These piers were buried The next chore—and one of the trailer which Keith could use was 48 12 – 15 feet deep in the river bed biggest challenges—was lifting the feet long, leaving a 35-foot overhang and protected by meticulously center span into place without the of heavy steel weighing down the placed 6000 – 8000-pound armor benefit of a crane. The following is rear axles of the trailer. rock. an excerpt from a Rowland family WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 7 letter detailing the bridge building the span past its ful- process: crum. Ever so gently and carefully, he set “Question: How do you lift al- the eastern end of most half a bridge without an indus- the span on the trial crane? Answer: A little at a ground, and before time. First, Keith made a temporary the day was done, ramp out of a 40-ft flatbed, which the east span was will eventually be one of the bridge properly set and spans. Because he didn’t want the pinned in place. heavy flatbed to exert too much lat- eral pressure on the newly set pier, Now, the bridge he hung the ramp on chains from was almost ready for the pier cap (below). use. All that re- mained was to install --Lifting the deck up… and highway-grade guard up… two sets of chains—one set attach- ing the bridge to the loader …and up… and up… boom, and the other set at- … and over the top! taching the bridge to the pier. Then he began lift- ing the bridge, only a couple feet at a time, resetting the pier an- chor chain, then lower- ing the loader boom, then resetting the load- er chain, lifting, reset- ting, lowering the boom, resetting, lifting… It was a l-o-o-o-n-g, tense day! rails and new decking on the west Keith drove the loader up his The next day, the suspended span. With help from some good “suspended ramp” and rigged up ramp was transported to the west neighbors, this stage of construc- pier, and the process began all tion was accomplished in “no time over again…” flat.” Between this stage of instal- Work still to be completed: a lation and the next, there were solar-powered keypad lock system weeks’ worth of welding and fab- for the gate (we’re currently using a ricating to be done. Meanwhile, padlock and handing out keys to the Kennicott River was rapidly those who have bought passes to rising. Soon, another logistical use the bridge); painting the bridge challenge began to present structure; raising the approaches itself—how to install the east and east abutment approximately span from the west side of the four feet; and installing signage. river. To accomplish this feat, Some have asked, “Just how Keith used the “piggyback and strong is this bridge?” The answer: see-saw” method. From the west Very strong. The bridge has been side of the river, he literally specially engineered to support an pushed that 28-ton chunk of 80,000-pound load and to resist a steel across the west and central 25-year flood event occurring simul- spans, until it hung, precarious- taneously with a Hidden Lake out- ly balanced between river and burst. sky, on the eastern end of the bridge. Then, using cables and The Kennicott River Service chains for stability, he slowly eased Bridge project has been 100% pri- (continued on page 21) PAGE 8 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 Fun and games at 17,200’

somewhere during the night we hoola hooping, and ski jumps, we he story behind our May took to duct taping the leaks in the finally left base camp in the early TDenali climbing trip be- roof. I finally took cover in my afternoon. After we were all roped gins in Girdwood 10 days truck. up with sleds rigged and packs load- prior to the climb. Bethany Barnes The next morning was bustling ed, we debated for a good while over and Meghan Seifert are busy dehy- around TAT. Climbers were gearing whether to wait for it to cool off or drating fruits, vegetables, tofu, sal- up to go and planes were already just go for it. Considering it was still sa, tomato sauce, and homemade flying. The weather was still improv- May and cooling off a bit at night, power bars. I arrive in town just in ing and we were on the list to fly out we decided it was safe to travel and time to help finish off the shopping, later that day. After a big breakfast off we went. We were also traveling run around REI and AMH, and make at The Roadhouse we did our last on skis, which make it safer through a trip to Girdwood to help pack the minute packing and hauled our gear the crevasse fields. The route de- food. The food-packing day is a cha- to the runway. After a 45-minute scends a well-known slope appropri- otic 12-hour day with a ately named short break to visit Jim “heartbreak hill” and at Girdwood Ski and then climbs again Cycle. There we de- slightly to a camp at compress from the 7800’. Some of the chore of packing for a largest crevasses and 21-day mountaineering snow bridges of the trip—Jim has an array entire route exist in of hoola hoops in dif- this area. We traveled ferent sizes and colors! cautiously and quick- We each pick up a ly, arriving at this hoola and Jim even next camp in about joins in to show us three hours. some tricks. He finds The next morn- us a hoola, which ing we had our typi- breaks into three light- cal coffee routine and weight sections to car- set off a bit earlier. ry with us on the Ski hill was the next mountain. Meghan and challenge, a section Beth are hoola veter- of the West Buttress ans; quite a scene to- Photo courtesy Dorothy Adler route that many par- gether as they pass the 14,200-ft. camp with Mr. Foraker in background. ties double-carry; 4-foot diameter hoola meaning that climb- hoop back and forth. flight in the Cessna 185 we landed ers will carry some gear to 9700' Days later we arrive in Talkeet- at the 7200-ft. Kahiltna base camp. and dig a cache and return to it the na, where we register with NPS and It was quite a scene. Now you proba- following day. We decided that check in with Talkeetna Air Taxi for bly are under the impression that there was no way we wanted to trav- our flight the following day. It has this is a climbing trip, meaning seri- el up this hill twice, so we single been raining for days and the air ous business, right? The following carried (125 lbs. each) with our taxi is backed up. They hint that we day becomes what is typical for us sleds and packs. The conditions as- might not fly the next day. Because on the mountain—never start be- cending ski hill were practically whi- their bunkhouse is filled for the fore noon and always drink coffee teout and quite windy, making a night, they give us girls the luxuri- and giggle for a while before doing rest stop for food and water very ous shed that has just literally been anything else. And to get the trip short and cold. Arriving at 9700' in constructed (they were putting the started on just the right note, the early afternoon gave us time to roof on while we weighed our gear). Meghan participated in some ski- start digging out a camp—until It was a modest little building, plen- jumping events at base camp that someone vacated, and we were able ty big for the three of us and our fully impressed onlookers, all of to move right in to an established combined 375 lbs of gear; however, whom were of the opposite gender. area. Here is where we became So after a full morning of coffee, known as the “hoola girls” and the WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 9 festivities began. The following day the climb that has claimed lives in chocolate at this camp, as climbers we decided to rest—partly because the past. As the name indicates, it coming down from the 17,200-ft. we needed it, partly we had a mini- can be tremendously windy and with camp are anxious to get rid of food blizzard going on and didn't want to the exposure and potential icy con- and fuel so they don't have to de- travel. Besides, Meg and Beth were ditions it can be necessary for the scend with it. having too much fun greeting other leader to place protection in case Once the megamid was erected, climbers with the hoola hoop and one should fall. Fortunately, the kitchen counters and seating for trying to get those passing by to conditions were perfect each time about 12 sculpted from snow, the join in the fun. That night dinner parties began. We we had our first official din- would have several MSR ner party on the mountain. stoves going at once and a Those of you who know me potpourri of food to eat. well know that I like dinner The meals always began parties. This continued to with melting snow for wa- take place on the mountain ter and the making of hot all the way up to 14,200’ drinks. The cooking and with 12 people sometimes eating of these meals last- getting cozy in the mega- ed several hours with the mid (cook tent) for pot- grand finale being some lucks. no-bake desserts that were The next day's move to out of this world. 11,000’ was fairly mellow. So here we are at We actually set our alarms 14,200’ feeling like we are for 5 AM, thinking we on vacation. Yoga sessions, might get an early start hoola hooping, and skiing that day, but didn't leave Photo courtesy the author by day and dinner parties Bethany & Megan on the headwall above 14,000-ft. camp. camp until 8:30. That was and card games by night. a record for us and I think We had Jiffy Popcorn deliv- the only time we left be- ered to our tent at midnight by fore noon. From 9,700’ to 11,000’ is we traveled this section of the friends looking for a card game and a gradual slope, getting steeper just route. The Alaska Range saw a lot of got to hang tight with two other rad before reaching 11,000'. This is a snow this year, which made sections women who were skiing some big beautiful camp and gives one the that are often icy, quite perfect for lines from 18,000’. Then we decided feeling that you are finally gaining us. We slept at 11,000’ again to bet- to make the move to 17,200’—and elevation and moving up the moun- ter acclimatize and then moved to the vacation became more like the tain. There were many people at this 14,200’ the next day and picked up mountaineering trip that it was. our cache along the way. camp, international climbers as well The day we moved up to 17,200’ as friends from Alaska. We were We were all beat when we ar- was absolutely stellar. We ascended greeted as the “hoola girls” as soon rived at 14,200’. I remember this as the fixed lines between the 14,200- as we rolled in. The next day the being one of the most tiring days of ft. camp and the 16,200-ft. ridge. hoola hoop came out and people the entire trip. The altitude begins We had made a cache two days prior gathered to try their hand (I mean to affect your breathing and you feel and the day before we gorged on hips) at this collapsible party favor like you're moving incredibly slow, rich foods all day long. We brought that brought us so much notoriety. like you are walking through quick- only 3-4 days of food and fuel, think- We didn't intend to try and carry it sand. Fortunately, we had 5 days of ing the good weather might last and to the summit, but here is where we chillin' to get our bodies used to the we'd make a quick ascent and then began to formulate the idea to be altitude. The weather was fairly be back to our big cache of food at the first to hoola hoop on Denali's good at this elevation and we had 14,200’ in no time. We also had 20,320-ft. summit. some bluebird days where it reached added an interesting dynamic to our After another rest day we were over 100 degrees inside our tent. all-girls team and I only mention it really feeling like we were on vaca- There is a ranger station at this because it became in some ways, tion and ready to carry a load of camp where climbers can check the the greatest challenge of the trip. gear to 13,500'. We ascended Mo- weather and chat with the climbing We called him “the hitchhiker,” torcycle Hill and worked our way up rangers. It's a mini city with people someone we had befriended at the Squirrel Hill. The next major obsta- from all over the world gathered for previous camp whose partner be- cle was Windy Corner, a section of the same reason. We stocked up on (continued on page 28) PAGE 10 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004

cCarthy: — Fourth Mof July celebrations at McCarthy re- ceived high marks from the ap- proximate 200 plus attendees this year. Jeremy Keller and De- nise Jantz were the Masters of Ceremony for this year’s festivi- ties. They did a fine job keeping things moving and organized. Many participants are voting for their return next year. Launching the annual event at zapper! Her antics of fending off sponsored by Meg Hunt and McCa- noon was the McCarthy Marching the brute caused much laughter rthy Air; Spuddy’s Hot Potato spon- Band leading the float procession from the onlookers and (in my sored by (guess who?) The Potato; down McCarthy’s main street. opinion) won the hearts of the Potato Dump Relay; The Hunker judges. Hawser and the Monkey Log spon- First place in the float competi- sored by the Rowland family; Janet tion this year went to the team of The stretch of road in down- Hegland’s card game on The Jim and Peggy Guntis, Kim town McCarthy soon cleared and a Green; the Orange Relay sponsored Northrup and Scott Wallin. The variety of contests and games were by Glacier View Campground and coveted prize was 20 yards of gravel set up for the enjoyment of all. to end the celebration...The Histor- donated by Rowcon Services. The Hungry folks lined up outside in ic Egg Toss. The adult class win- Wallin’s converted school bus (no front of the McCarthy Lodge to ners of the egg toss were Keith longer yellow but a deep green) sample the food specially prepared Rowland and brother-in-law Dave made a perfect Giant Green Mos- for the joyous occasion. Inside the Person. Prize was lunch for two at quito, complete with moving wings lodge, long-time local resident Jim Kennicott Glacier Lodge. (I’m won- (operated by Jim and Kim), huge Edwards entertained folks with his dering which two will get the eyes and a long snout which con- stories of the early days when Mc- lunch. Just in case you didn’t know stantly probed for a soft spot in its Carthy and Kennicott were more- your husband won, Laurie, you desired victim – Peggy who was out or-less ghost towns. might want to get in on this one! front of this huge insect-looking The competitions included Nail After all you are related to both monster. Outfitted from head to Pounding and Doubles Horseshoes these gentlemen.) toe with mosquito netting pants, which were sponsored by McCarthy jacket and hat, Peggy was armed Lodge; the Pie Eating Contest To cap off the day’s festivities, for battle – a can of bug spray and (congratulation to Kaylin Moffitt the Pilgrim Family gave an outdoor the weapon for the season, a bug who won the kids’ first place concert. class!); Jalapeno Eating Contest The smoke from northern Alas- kan forest fires that had hung in the valley for the week preceding the holiday lifted, the heavens opened and watered the drought- stricken forests – all in time for Glacier View Campground to add their final touch with a grand dis- play of fireworks.

Another year, another 4th of July, another celebration – all Mc- Carthy style, of course! WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 11 Search for Missing Climber on Mount Sanford

search on the 13th. They flew the ma to 7,500’ with 5 days’ supplies. ason Harper was dropped entire route up to the summit with- The team was divided into two par- Joff on May 4 at 3,000 feet out seeing anything. Jason's father, ties with Joe leading one up the gla- at Windy Ridge on the side Doug Harper, and his brother, cier while Matthew, Kevin and Rob of Mount Sanford in the Wrangell- Doug, Jr. also served as spotters in skied, roped together, down the gla- St. Elias National Park. Pilot Harley the search. cier. At 7,000’ Matthew located an McMahan of Gakona dropped Jason In the early morning of the 14th, old snow cave that was thought to off alone with skis, five days of food, Kelly Bay of McCarthy-based be left behind by a previous climb- climbing and camping gear. Wrangell Mountain Air flew Matthew ing party in April. Upon probing, a Jason's plan was to climb and and Kevin Smith from McCarthy to bag of food was uncovered as well as ski the heavily-crevassed Sheep Gla- Gakona to meet up with Dan Van- Jason’s sleeping bag and wallet. cier route from the summit, if possi- dermeulen to help with the search. This proved Jason had been on ble, going fast and light. Dan requested them to do a ground the Sheep Glacier and was probably Growing up in Idaho, Jason, 28, search, which had not been done farther up. Joe's group didn't find had done many impressive climbs yet, on the Sheep Glacier. any evidence, however. The plan and ski descents with friends as well The high altitude Denali Lama that night was to get the Denali La- as solo in various places such as helicopter was brought in. Incident ma to fly the group higher on the Girdwood, Valdez, Europe and Commander Pete Dalton of NPS, glacier. In the morning the summit South America. consulting with Rich Richotte, gave was covered in lenticular clouds as was Mount Drum. This is always a The Sheep Glacier route has the approval to fly Matthew and Kev- sign of very high winds. more than 10.000 feet of vertical in, Dan and Doug Harper, Jr. to drop, making it one of the longest ground search the heavily-crevassed The search could no longer con- runs anywhere. It was first climbed ice fall area between 7,500’ and tinue and everyone was safely flown in 1938 by Bradford Washburn and 8,000’. back to Gakona – ending the Terris Moore who also skied parts of After being dropped at 8500’ by search. Jason was never found. it. The first solo ascent was by leg- the Denali Lama, the team roped up Efforts between pilots, NPS per- endary Japanese mountaineer Nao- and spent 5 hours skiing down the sonnel, Alaska State Troopers, Air mi Uemurg in 1968. glacier searching into crevasses, National Guard, the dog team res- On May 9, Jason did not meet calling and even using an avalanche cue crew, and friends and family all McMahan for his scheduled pickup. beacon search. Nothing was seen or worked together exceedingly well McMahan searched on foot near the heard of Jason's whereabouts. and made for a safe and thorough, if airstrip and in the air with his Search and rescue dogs were unsuccessful, search. plane. After a few days of not seeing also used around the Windy Ridge Jason Harper will be missed any signs of Jason, he called the Na- airstrip and farther up where a few greatly by family and friends that tional Park Service (NPS). of Jason's tracks had been found. All had come to know and love him. On May 12 NPS pilots searched searchers were safely flown back to Kevin Smith is a long-time guide the Sheep Glacier route and other Gakona for the night. for Kennicott Wilderness Guides of possible descent routes, but saw The next day Denali climbing Kennicott, Alaska. He and his wife, nothing. ranger, Joe Reichert, with volun- Dorothy Adler, are year round resi- An Air National Guard Black- teers Robb McLean, Rob Klimek, dents of McCarthy. hawk H-60 helicopter with forward- and Dexter Hale, along with looking infrared radar joined the McCarthy’s Matthew and Kevin Smith, were flown by the Denali La- PAGE 12 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 Residents of the Wrangells update

sary, and to give a Categorical Ex- The state Republican Conven- clusion to residents trying to reach tion was held on May 27 in Soldot- s reported in the last their homes. These exclusions can na. ROW was delighted to see that a Aissue of WSEN, Gover- be granted for activities having min- resolution was adopted to call upon nor Murkowski wrote imal impact to park resources. The our state representatives to come to Secretary of the Interior Gale Park Service often uses them to forward and help all Alaskans de- Norton on April 15, asking her to allow NPS personnel to conduct fend their ANILCA rights. Another launch an investigation into allega- their duties without going through impressive resolution was passed to tions that the National Park Service assessment procedures. They used a urge our representatives to block (NPS) has shown “...various patterns Categorical Exclusion to cut a swath passage of the Get Outdoors Act of misbehavior and abuse, including of trees nearly two miles long (HR 4100) which would provide bil- unreasonable right-of-way closures around the Pilgrim property last lions of dollars annually for fifteen and restrictions; undue delays in the summer. years, in unappropriated funding, to issuance of permits; and intimida- Many inholders didn’t know purchase inholdings in conservation tion, harassment, and selective law they needed access permits. For units, sanction further condemna- enforcement...” in the Wrangell-St. over twenty years, residents used tions of private property , and en- Elias National Park (WRST). He their traditional means and routes hance the powers of the Endangered calls for further direction to NPS of travel without any NPS notifica- Species Act, all under the guise of personnel in administering the Alas- tion to let them know what was ex- curing obesity! For more informa- ka National Interest Lands Conser- pected. Now, by submitting a permit tion about this dangerous bill, go to vation Act (ANILCA) access application, residents open up a bu- the American Land Rights Associa- provisions, stating, “If these reports reaucratic snarl of red tape. Once tion website at of arbitrary and sometimes abusive permits are granted, short terms, http://www.landrights.org. We en- behavior are accurate, they raise continual renewals, possible revoca- courage you to write or e-mail our serious questions about the Park tion, and sometimes impossible Congressional delegation to voice Service’s implementation of ANIL- stipulations accompany them. The your opposition to this legislation. CA...” governor seeks to eliminate these Also, check out related issues in the Armed NPS rangers frequently problems by establishing an appeals McCarthy area at make unannounced visits to local process with an Alaskan oversight http://www.mccarthy- residents and make low-level flights committee to make rulings on any kennicott.com. over private property which tends to ANILCA-related issues. He also calls I had the opportunity to speak harass and intimidate targeted in- for NPS selection of the applicant’s with Senator Lisa Murkowski on the holders. Annual access fees are de- chosen route, and time limit restric- Valdez public radio “Coffee Break” manded on rights-of-way cleared tions for the permitting process. program at the end of May. She as- and continually used since long be- We were disappointed to receive sured us that she stands behind ev- fore the park was established. Costly a letter from the Inspector General ery Alaskan’s right to access; her five-and six-figure NEPA EA’s and for the Department of the Interior office has been in touch with ROW EIS’s are being performed on these in late April. He wrote to Residents several times to keep abreast of re- access routes, with residents often of the Wrangells (ROW) saying his cent developments. Senator Ted responsible for all costs. department would not review the Stevens has asked his staff to con- The governor has called for allegations. Instead, he referred the tact NPS in an effort to resolve proper notification by NPS person- matter back to NPS for “appropriate some of our problems in the park. nel before visits onto private proper- action” on their part. We didn’t ex- An aide from Congressman Don ty or low-level flyovers, and for actly expect them to be readily will- Young’s office will be in the McCa- minimal or no fees associated with ing to conduct an investigation, but rthy area in August to hear our the permits. He has also asked for we looked forward to their response grievances. the NPS to devise a new, standard- to the governor’s letter. This failure Superintendent Gary Candelaria ized, more relaxed procedure for of the Department of the Interior to was transferred last month out of inholder access. With respect to “police their own house” opens the WRST; Hunter Sharp is Acting Su- NEPA compliance, the governor door to an investigation by Con- perintendent until the position is calls for DOI to specify cases where gress, a matter which ROW is pursu- filled. NPS Regional Director Marcia no environmental study is neces- ing. Blaszak invited ROW to meet with WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 13 her at the Kennecott Rec Hall on Many trail postings have been tum, backed by vast financial re- July 2, from 10 a.m. until noon, to changed to more clearly allow for sources. However, no national discuss what traits residents would subsistence use. We have strong special interest group should be al- like to see in a new superintendent. alliances with the American Land lowed to have the power to deny She was accompanied by NPS Depu- Rights Association, Alaska Land Alaskans what Congress insisted on ty Regional Director Vic Knox and Rights Coalition, Pacific Legal protecting by law in 1980; the pres- Tina Cunning from the Department Foundation, and Slana Alaskans ervation of a truly unique Alaskan of Fish and Game. Unite. The NPS has “promoted” bush community which delights and The Alaska Department of Natu- Gary Candelaria from Superinten- amazes visitors to our area just as ral Resources has issued a permit to dent of the Park to a Deputy Direc- much as the landscape, flora, and the Pilgrim family to clear brush tor position at Harpers Ferry fauna. and do minimal maintenance of the Historical Park. Through the inter- If you live or own property in or 14-mile state road to their home. net and press coverage, our stories near the Wrangell-St. Elias National (See story below.) Now, NPS will in the WRST are being read across Park, we encourage you to join the have to decide whether they will the country. Our collective voice is Residents of the Wrangells. Dues honor the DNR permit and allow being heard! are only $10 per year which is used work to proceed on the controver- Environmental groups are fight- to offset the cost of mailings. Con- sial route. ing even harder now to buy inhold- tact Susan Smith, Chairperson, Res- In one year’s time, ROW has ings in our park and to force NPS to idents of the Wrangells, McCarthy achieved many of its goals. We have restrict or deny our access. The bat- #63B, Box MXY, Glennallen AK established a substantial member- tle is far from over. Advocates of 99588 or email ship list and we have networked viewshed restrictions, light pollu- [email protected]. with many of you in the community. tion regulations, noise pollution Our entire Congressional delegation regulations, wilderness protection, and governor are aware of our situa- national parks free of human habita- tion and speaking on our behalf tion, and expansion of conservation with the Department of the Interior. units through unlimited purchases of private land are gaining momen- DNR approves road work on McCarthy-Green Butte

n a letter dated June 9, Several cautions were given, merely intended to keep the Pil- I2004, the Alaska Depart- such as notifying landowners of grims from accessing their home by ment of Natural Resources property that the road passes vehicle. (DNR) has granted approval to the through, including the National The Pilgrims have brought suit Pilgrim family’s request to do re- Park Service (NPS), who has the against the Park Service and the quired maintenance on the McCa- ability to “reasonably regulate” the case is now before the 9th Circuit rthy-Green Butte Road, RST 135. manner of access. Court of Appeals. The Pacific Legal The letter, addressed to attor- The definition of “reasonable Foundation is handling the case. ney J.P. Tangen, provides “any au- regulation” has been the source of The state of Alaska has filed an am- thorization needed from the much controversy since the NPS icus curiae, or “friend of the court” Department for removing overbur- posted notices last year saying the brief on behalf of the Pilgrims litiga- den and underbrush and performing road was closed to all vehicular traf- tion. other incidental improvements on fic. Acting Superintendent Hunter the state’s right-of-way to provide Sharp (then Chief Ranger) later said for reasonable access to your that the notice did not apply to sub- client’s property.” sistence activity, but that it was PAGE 14 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004

In 2004, as America celebrates the 200th anniversary of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, Alaskans can take pride in our own state’s great journey of discovery, the Allen Expedi- tion of 1885. Though it occurred eight decades later, it has sometimes been called Alaska’s ‘Lewis and Clark Expedition’ er basin, an area only partly tra- failed in their quest. Abercrombie’s The 1885 Allen Expedition also versed earlier by the Russians, report painted a gloomy prospect entailed exploration of uncharted British and Americans. The trip was for further exploration in the re- terrain and resulted in many new a success. gion. He concluded that the route discoveries. It was the first time A dangerous plan they had tried to pioneer was not westerners traveled from the coastal With the encouraging results of practical due to overwhelming ob- regions of south-central Alaska the Schwatka Expedition, Miles set stacles of high mountains, glacier- northward through the Alaska his sites on a new and much more filled valleys, and daunting rivers Range into the Yukon drainage. ambitious goal to explore an area of beset with swift rapids which had From there the expedition contin- Alaska where no westerner had suc- forced the group to turn back. This ued westward to the Bering Sea — cessfully gone before — the Copper was certainly discouraging news. completing a total of 1,500 miles in River country and points beyond. Had it not been for Gen. Miles’ con- less than 20 weeks. It was a remark- The plan was to send a party to as- tinuing interest in Alaska and Lt. able achievement. cend the Copper River and find a Allen’s newly-found excitement for Allen’s distinguished career passable route through the unex- the territory, it would have ended there. Henry Tureman Allen, born in plored Alaska Range to the Yukon 1859 in Kentucky (11 years prior to drainage. If successful, it would be a A second attempt the death of the last member of the major achievement. Instead, Miles persisted and Lewis and Clark Expedition), gradu- The trip was not without danger soon was able to win support for one ated from West Point in 1882. Dur- and uncertainty. Earlier, at least more attempt to explore the Copper ing the next 41 years, he would three groups of Russian explorers River country and beyond. But it serve his country in various military had perished in the Copper River was to be a more modest expedition capacities, ending his distinguished country, where the Ahtna Indians of of only three men. Lt. Allen was se- career as commander of the Ameri- the Copper River were known to be lected to lead it and he handpicked can Occupation Forces in Germany fiercely territorial. Also, no British two other men to come along. They during 1919-1923 after World War or Americans had successfully made were Cavalry Sgt. Cady Robertson, a I. Yet arguably his most exciting the formidable journey despite some fellow soldier from his own unit, and assignment was one he received in attempts. To Miles and the military, Pvt. Frederick W. Fickett, a signal his mid-20s as a young lieutenant it was a challenge with no guarantee corpsman, whom Allen had met in serving as an aide to veteran Indian of success. It was in this less-than Sitka during his trip to determine fighter, Gen. Nelson A. Miles. In optimistic setting that the Allen Abercrombie’s fate. Both turned out 1880, Miles was put in charge of the Expedition was launched and its to be good choices. U.S. Army’s operations in the Pacif- start clouded even further. The small party wasted little ic Northwest. This was after leading Lt. Allen was not Miles’ first time in starting north to Alaska. Lt. numerous campaigns against Indi- choice to follow up on the successes Allen received official orders on Jan. ans in the American West, including of the more modest Schwatka Expe- 27, 1885 authorizing the trip. Two the Cheyenne, Comanche, Sioux dition. That assignment had gone to days later the three men were on a tribes under Sitting Bull (who de- Lt. William Abercrombie who left in steamer headed for Alaska. They feated Gen. Custer in 1876), and 1884. But as weeks passed with no would not return to Allen’s post at Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce in word of his fate, Gen. Miles became Vancouver Barracks in Washington 1877. However, Miles had other in- concerned and sent Lt. Allen to in- Territory until later that year. And terests as well, including explora- vestigate. Accordingly, he sailed what they did during their time tion. He was fascinated with reports north in late 1884, thereby getting away made history. of Alaska Territory and in 1883 sent his first taste of adventure in Alas- As expected, the primary pur- Army Lt. Frederick Schwatka on an ka. While Abercrombie and his men pose of the expedition was to learn expedition to explore the Yukon Riv- did return safely, they nonetheless about and map unknown terrain WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 15 including a pass through the Alaska enough by Ahtna Chief Nicolai that Today, Allen’s well-written re- Range and beyond into the Yukon he led them up the Chitina River to port remains an invaluable docu- Basin. But there was another rea- a secret outcropping of nearly pure ment for Alaska. It provided not son, a military one. By the terms of copper. Allen’s record of this re- only a history of prior exploration in their official orders, Allen and his markable place helped inspire later the Copper, Tanana and Koyukuk men were to report on the Native searches for copper in the region River areas including oral history people, including information on leading to the later discovery of the anecdotes, but a compelling narra- how much of a future threat they Kennecott Copper Mines, one of the tive of their harrowing trip. It also might pose to other westerners that richest deposits of high grade cop- recorded invaluable observations would later venture into this region. per ever found in North America. about the Natives encountered Memories of the ill fated Russian Among the other notable dis- along the way and their cultures, expeditions lingered. Also, this was coveries made by the men was Sus- which were already undergoing a time in America when conflicts lota Pass, a usable route from the changes due to contact with outsid- with Native peoples elsewhere were Copper River County into the Ta- ers. Allen, not unlike early cultural still occurring in some areas. After nana and Yukon Valleys. Most re- anthropologists of the time, even Allen returned, his commander, markable of all was their mapping speculated on connections between Gen. Miles, was sent on a special for the first time of the Copper, Ta- various peoples of Alaska and their mission to fight Geronimo. nana and Koyukuk Rivers. And all prehistoric movements based on Natives contribute to success this in less than 20 weeks while trav- “general appearance and manner.” Thus, the military’s concern for eling overland for more than 1,500 In addition, Allen’s report in- what they might face in Alaska was miles! cluded observations on animals, ge- understandable given the times. An invaluable report ology, volcanic activity, glaciers, But, in view of Lt. Allen being au- Two years after their return, Lt. minerals, and even the weather. Al- thorized only two other men for his Allen completed an impressive 172- together, the Allen Expedition cre- expedition, this order to assess Na- page report, accompanied by de- ated the first written record for tives from a military standpoint was tailed maps. It was modestly titled much of interior Alaska, a remark- a bit ironic. Later, it would become “Report of An Expedition to the able accomplishment that places it even more ironic in light of how well Copper, Tanana, and Koyukuk River, among the greatest journeys of dis- Allen and his men were treated by in the Territory of Alaska, in the covery in American history. It was the Natives they encountered. Had Year 1885, for the Purpose of Ob- indeed Alaska’s own Lewis and Clark it not been for the Alaska Native taining all Information Which will Expedition! people encountered, at times the be Valuable and Important, Espe- Footnote: While Robert King, small group of travelers might have cially to the Military Branch of the BLM’s State Archaeologist for Alas- perished. Similar situations oc- Government.” While the document ka has great admiration for Lt. Hen- curred during the Lewis and Clark contained around 20 illustrations, ry T. Allen and the remarkable Expedition, some 80 years earlier. including sketches of terrain they achievements of his expedition, he With full knowledge of potential encountered as well as depictions of also has a special interest in the problems he might face, Lt. Allen some Natives, Allen and Fickett Lewis and Clark Expedition as he is nonetheless saw this trip as a great were greatly disappointed by one a distant relative of Meriwether Lew- opportunity. The expedition eventu- unfortunate event. They had is. ally succeeded where all others be- brought along a camera, but the (Reprinted from the BLM Alas- fore them had failed. Not only did numerous glass-plate photographs ka Frontiers Summer 2004.) Allen and his men record informa- they made with considerable effort tion on the people they encoun- were later lost by a messenger. tered, but they became trusted

CLASSIFIED WANTED: Five to sixty acres in McCarthy area. Contact Ron at (303)940-6539 FOR SALE: Ruger Old Army .45 cal black powder revolver. 7.5” barrel with adjustable sights. Appears to be un- fired. $350 OBO contact Rick at (907)554-4454 FOR SALE: Beretta 3032 Tomcat with custom grips and action work by Bill West of Wild West Guns. Like new. $250 OBO. Ruger Old Model Single Six .22 magnum with scope. Nice condition. $275. Call Rick at (907)554- 4454 PAGE 16 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 WRST superintendent leaves under cloud

WRST destroyed more natural, un- novative trail protection demonstra- ary Candelaria has disturbed vegetation and left more tion and sent photos of their work Gstepped down from his visual impact in the McCarthy to the NPS. Instead of thanking position as superinten- Creek valley then anyone likely has Frederick, Candelaria had Frederick dent of Wrangell-St. Elias National in the last 50 years. charged as a criminal for building a Park (WRST) and taken a position Candelaria wrote an incredibly structure in the park. In as Deputy Director for Harpers Fer- unprofessional and slanderous Frederick’s trial the NPS admitted ry Center in West Virginia. There he “Open Letter” in which contained it wasn't really interested in repair- will direct a team of technicians untrue charges against the Pilgrims ing or protecting the trails, it just who provide audiovisual assistance and ugly personal comments. Then wanted them closed and that the throughout the National Park Sys- Candelaria ordered his staff at the (undisclosed) purpose of the tem. Kennicott Visitor Center to show it “citizen workshop” was to satisfy an Candelaria came to WRST in to tourists that asked questions ANILCA requirement that the NPS 1999. During his first several years about the Pilgrims. have a public meeting before clos- he kept a low profile, forging alli- Last year, while spending an ing trails. ances with the local environmental admitted half-million dollars at- All of these events as well as community, the Wilderness Society tempting to bring a case against the many other abuses on Candelaria's and the National Parks and Conser- Pilgrim family, he authorized the watch generated an unprecedented vation Association, and quietly closure of the newly-constructed groundswell of local outrage and working to buy up land in and visitor contact log cabin at the end the formation of a new organiza- around the park with the help of of the McCarthy Road, supposedly tion, the Residents of the Wrangells, various environmental land trusts. because of “budget cuts.” or ROW. ROW took public testimo- Then began a spate of actions While Candelaria was superin- ny on NPS abuse in the WRST at against the community and local tendent of WRST, the park also several heated meetings and sub- residents, such as Candelaria's infa- spent $420,000 building and reno- mitted its findings to the congres- mous McCarthy Green Butte Road vating thirteen “public-use cabins,” sional delegation and the governor closure, which outraged many Mc- only eight of which are listed in the as well as asking for a Department Carthy citizens and brought nation- 2004 Superintendent’s Compendi- of the Interior Inspector General al attention to WRST. He also um. Some area residents have Investigation. approved a SWAT-style helicopter charged that the four unlisted cab- When asked why Candelaria has team of heavily armed rangers and ins were built for exclusive use of left WRST, NPS spokesperson Jane technicians that harassed the Pil- NPS employees rather than the pub- Tranel said, “Gary took a promo- grim family for weeks while trying lic. tion to take a position at the Harp- to find “damage” to park lands that On the north side of the park he ers Ferry [NPS] Service Center.” could be charged against the Pil- oversaw a process where the WRST Director Blaszak had this to say, grims. At the same time, Candelaria called a public meeting and work- “Gary’s with a soulmate that he’s approved a damaging land survey, shop with citizens, ostensibly to going to marry this summer; now including a wide clear-cut swath come up with ways to repair and they’re both in the DC area and can around the Pilgrim property so the protect trails from ORV impacts. be together.” NPS could “keep an eye on the fami- Slana resident Doug Frederick and ly from the air.” In so doing, the other volunteers constructed an in-

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR continued from page 35 What’s wrong with this picture? respect? They have other options volved. But the story speaks for it- We keep hearing the NPS wants to that they choose not to take. self. It should outrage every one of be our friends. Why can’t they act The area in question is purpose- us. like friends and treat residents with ly left out of this account to protect Concerned Citizen the privacy of the gentleman in- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 17 In memory of Karen Woodruff Long 1957-2004

them in their homes. Then she service which was held June 6 at aren Long continued her would show them a choice of curric- Hermon Hutchens Elementary Kjourney into eternal life ulums from which to set up their School in Valdez. Even in passing, on May 21, 2004. She education according to their needs she comforted those who loved her. had spent 47 years on earth and and abilities. If something didn’t I will end with a Bible verse Karen touched many lives during that work then we would stop and try chose to leave with us. The words of time. She was a loving daughter and something else. Her desire was for Jesus Christ: sister, a devoted wife and mother, the students to enjoy learning and “Let not your hearts be trou- but I knew her best as a caring to take an active part in their own bled; believe in God, believe also in teacher. education. me. In my Father’s house are many When our family moved out into Karen spent time working to mansions; if it were not so, would I the bush of Alaska, education be- give the students opportunities to have told you that I go to prepare a came our responsibility. There is no learn new things. She set up a tech- place for you? And if I go and pre- public or private school in McCarthy nology camp so students could learn pare a place for you, I will come or Kennecott to send your children to do Power Point presentations on again and will take you to myself, so to. There are many schools that will their computers. She set up Artists- that where I am, there you may be help bush families by providing a in-the-Schools programs which al- also. And you know the way to the curriculum and a teacher to grade lowed the students to work with place where I am going.” Thomas the students’ work, make sure re- professionals and learn how to paint said to him, “Lord, we do not know quired tests and classes are taken, with water colors, carve native where you are going. How can we and hand out the high school diplo- masks, work with ceramics, play mu- know the way?” Jesus said to him, “I ma. We chose to go with the sical instruments, and perfect their am the way, and the truth, and the Chugach Extension School out of writing skills. She encouraged stu- life. No ones comes to the Father Valdez and, hence, Karen walked dents to take part in the Voyage to except through me.” John 14: 1-6. into our lives. Excellence program run by the Karen is survived by her hus- Karen made two trips a year to Chugach School District. We will all band, Richard C., and sons Alexan- our community in order to meet miss Karen and her group get-to- der W. and Justin W. Long, all of with her students and their families. gethers that always included a sci- Valdez; mother Geraldine Woodruff Chugach does not have one certain ence experiment or group project of Concord, Ohio; brother Robert curriculum all the students must and, of course, hot dogs and Woodruff of Sagamore Hills, Ohio; follow, so Karen would spend time s’mores around the fire. sisters-in-law Nancy Woodruff of with each student to see where their Karen continued to care about Ohio; and Sandra Hawkins and interest lay and how they learned. and help her students long after brother-in-law Edward Long, both of She also took into consideration the they graduated. She has helped Alaska and many nieces and neph- parents, the ones who would be do- many children reach their dreams. ews. ing the actual teaching. She spent She was our helper, our advisor, and She was proceeded in death by time with the parents, listening to most importantly, our friend. her father Robert E. Woodruff. their thoughts of what is important When Karen knew her time on in the education of their children. earth was soon to be over, she She would see the families’ morals shared with her family what she and values by spending time with wanted included in her memorial Al Swalling 1910 - 2004 l Swalling, who worked on to become a major industrial con- Kennicott Museum. Although he Athe CRNW Railway from tractor in Anchorage. was no longer wellknown locally, Al 1928 until 1938 and who Al Swalling’s company built the himself was present at McCarthy on was also on “the last train out,” walking bridges which cross the the day the box car was set in place. died July 3. He was one of the great Kennicott River, and it was also He often referred to his railroading Alaskan pioneers who went on after Swalling Construction which volun- days as one of the best times of his his decade of work with the CR&NW tarily set the museum box car onto life. the tracks in front of the McCarthy- PAGE 18 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 THE CHITINA LEADER July 1912 August

Strike Ore at Kuskulana dricken, H. Sutherland, Gust covered with the slowly accu- In her most recent arti- George Love is in re- Swersten, Svenson, Charles mulated layer of partly de- cle she says: ceipt of a letter from Ole Ckoftland, Warren Taylor, cayed vegetation or “muck.” Steep and badly broken Berg, in charge of the prop- Louis Wick, Christ Wold, H. This water-tight covering of glaciers, steeper ridges all erties of the Kuskulana Cop- Wrarar. frozen muck varies in thick- crested with ice, and a fairly per Company, stating that The crew of men under ness from a few feet on the smooth snow summit, such he has broken into a large Fred Walters have covered sides to nearly eighty feet in was the sight that Mount body of the finest ore yet about three miles of this end the center of the valley. Sev- Blackburn presented to our uncovered in that section. A of the trail and are now eral small streams at the view. It was the fifth day, number of eastern capital- camped at the old site at the upper end of the valley find with food for only eight days ists interested in the proper- southend of the third lake. their way under this frozen more, and every route look- ties are now on their way out The crew under Billy Camer- layer and work down ing hopelessly difficult and from Boston. – Valdez Pros- on are working at Tonsina through the old river gravel dangerous for men with pector. and have covered about four to the Copper River which heavy packs. The sled and all July 6 miles of the trail. The work has cut its later channel 200 else possible would have to feet below this old one. NEW BALL PARK FOR consists largely of ditching be left at this base camp and and putting in small bridges. Malcolm Nelson, who from here at 6,600 feet, CHITINA Since Miller and Cham- had a contract to get water, food, fuel and shelter would Chitina is going to have berlain arrived in Chitina thawed and dug through 27 have to be carried by men the best baseball park in the streets and hillsides have feet of frozen muck and and dogs nearly to the top. Alaska. No sooner was the been so full of cows, horses, partly rotted stumps, then Progress would be so slow matter mentioned than ev- sheep and calves that those through three feet of moss, and the liability to blizzards erybody became interested. passing through here think which was only slightly de- so great that it would never A good level plat of ground this is a ranching country. It cayed. Under the moss was be safe to be far from shel- one half mile north of town will be some day. eight feet of frozen boulders ter, and this very necessity has been selected and good The bridge crew now has and sand. When this layer for heavy packs would com- progress is being made was punctured, the water pel the choice of route which clearing it. In another week everything in shape on the railroad and will go to work bubbled up in a fountain, would be neither too steep trees, brush and stumps will and his assistant saved him- nor too difficult if we were to be gone. Two of Chitina’s on the reconstruction of the big concentrator at Kenne- self from drowning only by advance at all. Nearly 10,000 leading women were out the climbing out. feet of snow and ice re- other day swinging axes in a cott. Henry has now enlarged mained to be climbed with most enthusiastic manner. A WINTER WATER the holes in his doughnuts a the certainty of such fre- It is now proposed to have a SUPPLY quarter of an inch to pay for quent snowfall that the snow tract of forty acres including Henry Gessner, propri- his hole in the ground, but would have no time to hard- the ball park set aside by the etor of the Chitina Bakery, his coffee and bread are as en, would make the ascent government as a park for the has just finished digging a good as ever. laborious and would slide town of Chitina. The ball well on his property. After MISS KEEN'S ASCENT with the first hot sun. To grounds will be finished in going down through forty OF MOUNT BLACKBURN climb at night was impossi- time for some good games feet of frost the water was ble. Such routes could not this summer. reached, which rose to with- Miss Dora Keen, who is be attempted in the dark. The following letters re- in fifteen feet of the surface. the daughter of an eminent Indeed one of the best gaug- main uncalled for in the Chi- Chitina lies in a narrow Philadelphia surgeon, is es of the difficulty of a tina post office: A. Berry, valley that was once a chan- writing a series of articles on mountain ascent is the ele- John Bergen, Tim Cronin, nel for a part of the Copper her recent successful con- vation remaining to be John S. Dorwin, Fredric Fre- River. The river gravel is now quest of Mount Blackburn, climbed above the snow line. Alaska, in Scribners.

Reprinted from The Chitina Leader, July & August 1912 issues. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 19

It is chiefly the 10,000 or men of his party, who did a garden stuff he has raised Eggs 14.00 15,000 feet that have to be lot of perilous mountain and which can't be beat any- The railroad freight on climbed above the snow line climbing in the Scolai moun- where in the states. He sold groceries runs 16 2/3 per that make the high moun- tains without ever flinching. $22 worth of lettuce the day cent of their value. On cloth- tains of Alaska the most dif- The foggy weather proved a he arrived. He expects to get ing 3 ½ per cent, which is ficult to climb. great drawback in taking ob- thirty or forty tons of hay. sold at Cordova prices. Com- Above 12,000 feet as- servations, and the party was Next year he will start his petition has greatly reduced cent would be easy. This was considerably later arriving cattle ranch. the cost of living in Chitina. one reason why I had chosen here than they expected. In The strike at Teikell has CHITINA BREVITIES to try this mountain by this the upper Chitina it is ex- caused a stampede in that pected that the work will be Several people have side. Experience in the Alps direction and has renewed been attacked by grouse and the Andes had taught completed early in Septem- interest in the territory be- ber and that both parties will lately. Of course the grouse me to avoid difficult work tween that point and Mile got the worst of it. above 15,000 feet. The maps reach McCarthy about Sep- 109, in which several good of the United States geologi- tember 11. prospects were found last cal survey – made from near July 23 summer. Harry Dean left Satur- our first camp – showed the LOCAL HAPPENINGS IN E. A. Patrick, who is do- day for the Dean's Basin country, back of Taval, contour lines to be gradual AND AROUND TOWN ing development work at above 12,000 feet, that was where he will do assessment Nels McCrary, of Copper Long Lake was in Chitina the problem. With all the work on his copper property. Center, was in town this this week. He is well satisfied routes alike looking hope- week. He found the trail in with what he is showing up. less, the shortest seemed good condition. The Joe Feister of Cordova Dick Gilneau brought the best to try first. McCrary’s have 6 acres of will take the management of down some good samples of July 16 oats sown this year, which the store of M. Finkelstein. his copper on the Kotsina, BOUNDARY SURVEY are doing well and promise Jack Laurie will enter busi- which are on exhibition at PARTY ESCAPE to make a good yield. ness at McCarthy. the Chitina Hotel. DROWNING July 23 Frank Iverson has re- Dan Creek, July 12. HAPPENINGS ABOUT corded eight claims this GOOD RANCH AT Asa C. Baldwin reached TOWN week. TASLINA here last evening with his The warm weather for August 6 Mr. Kiltske, who runs party of boundary survey the last week has raised the PRICES ARE the Taslina road house, was workers and proceeded to- rivers and thirteen bents of REASONABLE IN TOWN in town last week for sup- ward the head waters of the the bridge were taken out, OF CHITINA plies from the Chitina Cash Store. He has a ranch at Chitina to co-operate with but were replaced in a few Business conditions Taslina and has good pros- Mr. Eaton’s party, now in days. This bridge continues have been surprisingly good pects of a paying crop this that field. Mr. Baldwin’s to be an expensive nuisance. this summer. The Chitina year. Mrs. Book returned work on this trip was partic- TWO MAILS ARE DUE Cash Store reports a big with him and will be engaged ularly hazardous owing to trade so far this month. Op- TO ARRIVE MONDAY as cook for the road house. light but continuous falls of erators are beginning to re- snow up to as late as July 10. The steamer Bertha will August 13 reach port early Monday alize that they can save The high water in Scolai morning and the steamer nothing by sending to Cor- creek and the upper Nizina Alameda later in the day. dova or the outside from the caused considerable delay, Each vessel carries four days above. The following prices the ice backing up the water accumulation of mail from from the above firm will and then coming down with Seattle, which will mean a show an average of Cordova lightning speed with the busy day at the local post prices plus the railroad break-up of the jam. On one office. freight from Cordova to Chi- occasion an ice jam gave way tina: July 30 while the entire party were Article Cordova Chitina crossing the river and they LOCAL JOTTINGS Flour $3.50 $5.50 only reached the shore with ABOUT TOWN Sugar 8.00 10.00 the greatest difficulty. Pete Schneider, the Mr. Baldwin speaks in Taslina rancher, came to Bacon .23 .26 the warmest terms of the town this week for a mower Milk 4.50 5.75 undaunted courage of the and rake. He brought some Butter .40 .45 PAGE 20 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 Hart D Ranch controversy

ome area residents say tire national park system, critics are the Department of the Interior’s Sthat an aggressive cam- suggesting that no more additional budget request to Congress. NPS’s paign to build another land be added. request of Senator Murkowski to visitor complex for the Wrangell-St. Slana has had a visitor contact fast-track funds for the Slana proj- Elias National Park (WRST) is being station for many years, the Slana ect leads some to believe that they handled in an unethical manner, Ranger Station. But Ms. DeHart says have already asked for an appropria- and may be illegal. that it is not easily accessible by tion. Like the recently constructed large motor homes. NPS Director Fran Mainella $7.6 million Copper Center Com- The Slana Ranger Station was came under fire at a House Appro- plex, this one is also outside of the built in 1993 after the existing priations subcommittee hearing in park boundaries. Ranger Station burned down. Then March which was called to scruti- When Congress turned down a Superintendent Karen Wade had nize the agency’s spending. Her an- request for $4.5 million to purchase been asking for funds to replace the nouncement of plans to cut back on and refurbish the Hart D Ranch aging structure, but Congress visitor services due to lack of ade- near Slana, flyers began to appear turned her down. After the fire, NPS quate funding were met with criti- soliciting private funding through was able to get an immediate grant cisms of mismanagement and the Trust for Public Land, a group of $229,000 to build the beautiful misplaced priorities. Partly as a re- that has been working with former new structure. Park historian Geoff sult of those concerns, House bill superintendent Gary Candelaria for Bleakly suggests the fire was the (HR 4578) was enacted on June 21 several years to acquire additional work of an arsonist in his book Con- to further regulate NPS expansion property for the nation’s largest na- tested Ground, but some locals tell and construction spending. Under tional park. a different story. According to the this new bill, NPS may not accept (Although Senator Lisa bartender at Duffy’s Tavern, the donations or services for the plan- Murkowski’s office told us that the Ranger who was living at the station ning, design, or construction of new Park Service has requested money was sent home from the bar in the facilities without advance written for the purchase, NPS Regional Di- early hours of the morning after approval of the House and Senate rector Marcia Blaszak had a differ- consuming too much alcohol. Sever- Committees on Appropriations. Just ent story: “When Ms. DeHart al hours later the Ranger Station sat this past week, the Park Service approached us we thought it might in ashes. The official word at the turned down an offered $10 million be nice but we told her she must time was that it may have been donation from the Oneida Indian either find someone to purchase caused by an electrical fire. Nation and canceled fund-raising for and donate to the park, or find an- Critics also say they believe the the American Revolution Center at other buyer,” said Blaszak.) fund-raising effort violates NPS reg- Valley Forge. “The Wrangell St. Elias National ulations. They point to the NPS The Residents of the Wrangells Park would like to refurbish the Director’s Order #21, which states (ROW), a local citizens group, has Hart D Ranch Complex located on that “Donations of land, buildings, asked Senator Murkowski’s office to the Nabesna Road so it could func- and other property must be within look into the project. tion as this Visitors Interpretive the boundaries of the park unit...” Susan Smith, Chairperson of Center / Campground / and very NPS does not have Congressio- ROW said, “Going for the Hart D is much needed employee housing,” nal authority to solicit gifts. Their an underhanded, aggressive move to says a beautiful full color poster personnel are restricted to educat- enlarge even further this gigantic that is circulating in the area. The ing the public about their ability to park and squeeze more private visi- poster asks for people to either do- accept gifts, and specifying their tor services out of the nate funds for the project, or write needs. Congress has chartered cer- Slana/Nabesna area. It’s an outrage the Alaska Congressional delegation tain partner foundations which may that the NPS is attempting to cir- with a “support letter showing im- accept and solicit funds for NPS, cumvent process by trying to slip mediate need.” and certain funding sources are pro- this by Congress and bloat the The National Park Service (NPS) hibited. WRST with more maintenance costs has been quietly acquiring land in No public announcements of at the same time it is constantly the Slana area over the past few fund-raising efforts are allowed until whining about not having money to years. Much of that land lies outside final approval of a written agree- maintain what they already have.” park-preserve boundaries. Since ment. WRST, at 13.2 million acres already Campaigns should also not so- comprises 16.3 percent of the en- licit funds for projects included in WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 21 (Bridge —continued from page 7) vately funded (cost so far: over To Doug Miller and Neil Darish at McCarthy—complete with a personal $250,000). In order to recoup some McCarthy Ventures—for unrelenting guided tour of the new bridge—after of this cost, the bridge is set up on a enthusiasm. the project was finished. fee-for-use basis. The first personal To George Cebula—when Keith To Ed LaChapelle—for all his use pass was sold on June 6 to Rick took the final permit documents to help and research on the solar-pow- and Bonnie Kenyon, and the first our local public notary to be nota- ered keypad lock system. business pass was sold to Doug Mill- rized, George stamped the papers, To Lane Moffitt—for all the grad- er at McCarthy Ventures, LLC. and then kindly refused payment. er work done on Freedom Lane which Keith and I are very thankful for To McCarthy Area Council—for leads to the bridge, for the proudly- all the practical help, input, ideas, finding the owner of a key piece of waving Freedom Flag, and for coming and encouragement which have property needed to be acquired for to the bridge construction site nearly come from the McCarthy communi- legal bridge access. Because the re- every day to check progress. cords at the Chitina Recorder’s Office ty. We would like to express special To Betty Adams—for beautifying are not complete, this required some gratefulness to the following people: the bridge with her cheery flowers. detective work. MAC hired an agent To Rick and Bonnie Kenyon and to investigate into the matter. The The Kennicott River Service others in the Wednesday night prayer agent eventually succeeded in locat- Bridge has been well received in our group—for upholding in prayer the ing the owner of this key lot, a woman community. Kennicott resident James permit process and workers’ safety from New York named Tibby. We then Sill summed it up best as he drove during construction. Herein lies the contacted Tibby with an offer to buy through the gate and across the secret of our success! her land. As soon as she heard of our bridge for the first time. “FREEDOM To Ken Rowland—for expediting plans to build a service bridge, that AT LAST!” he whooped exultantly. materials, expertise in welding and pleasant little lady got on board! She fabrication, and assistance in bridge cheerfully agreed to sell us the prop- construction. erty, with the stipulation that we would pay for her round trip from An- chorage accommodations in

(Director Blaszak meets ROW continued from page 5) Knox responded to a variety of meeting’s closing time approached Others thought the Director questions from individuals on issues and Ms. Smith asked to read the list seemed unwilling to admit that such as RS2477, ANILCA, and on the Director suggested the list be there had been any problems at how he sees the present communi- given to her but not read. Ms. Smith WRST. ties of McCarthy and Kennicott. Ac- said she would keep it brief. Once cording to Knox he is committed to again Ms. Blaszak tried to discour- Laurie Rowland, who is a mem- ANILCA’s 1110B’s access to inhold- age the attempt. ber of the ROW Advisory Board, had ings, recognizes Alaska’s parks as Smith said she came away from this to say: “In essence, she told us, different because of ANILCA, and he the meeting confused. “Marcia ‘Let’s not go back to the past, but values the present residents and knew we wanted to talk to her about instead press forward.’ What an out- desires to build dialogue, working a number of concerns,” said Susan, rage! It would be impossible to ac- with the people and finding places “and she said in an email that, ‘We curately convey the changes we where they and NPS can agree. will also have a time for listening to would like to see in a future super- Tina Cunning is Alaska Fish and concerns from the group.’” intendent without referring to mis- Game’s “expert” on ANILCA. She Many in ROW believe tensions deeds of past personnel to express reported to the attendees that she can be relieved; they have hope what we do not want in a superin- and Sally Gibert were diligently tendent. This was, after all, the pri- studying ANILCA’s 1110B. The de- things can be better between resi- sire is to bring clarification to those dents and the National Park Service. mary purpose of the meeting!” areas that are unclear and misun- They feel the meeting in Kennecott Ms. Blaszak has offered to hold derstood by many. was a step in the right direction, a meeting in the Slana/Nabesna ar- Of great importance to ROW but several members have said they ea in the near future. The time and members was the opportunity to were confused by Ms. Blaszak’s un- place has not yet been decided. present the groups’ list of concerns willingness to talk about allegations and receive the feedback promised of wrongdoing on the part of cur- by Director Blaszak. But, as the rent and past WRST administration. PAGE 22 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 Scheduled Air Service from Anchorage to McCarthy with stopover in Gulkana!

Now you can leave Anchorage at 8:30 on Wednesday or Gulkana/McCarthy $90 Friday morning and arrive in Gulkana at 9:45, McCarthy at McCarthy/Gulkana $90 11:00. Or, you can leave McCarthy at 11:15 and be back in Gulkana/May Creek $95 Anchorage by 2:00pm the same day! (Leaves Gulkana at May Creek/Gulkana $95 12:45) This service is year around. Anchorage/Gulkana $175 Gulkana/Anchorage $175 http://www.ellisair.com Space available only Baggage allowance 40 lbs. (charge for excess baggage) tax included Ellis Air Taxi, Inc. RESPONSIBILITY FOR DEPARTURES, ARRIVALS, CONNECTIONS. Ellis Air will not be responsible for damages resulting from the failure of flights to depart Phone 822-3368 or arrive at times stated in this timetable, nor for errors herein, nor for failure to make connections to other airlines or of this company. Schedules are subject to change without notice. Schedules 800-478-3368 shown are based on expected flying times. Because weather and other factors may affect operat- ing conditions, departures and arrivals cannot be guaranteed. Gulkana Airfield Box 106, Glennallen, AK 99588

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Experience the Copper Rail Depot, home of the most unique large-scale historic model railroad in Alaska: features mod- els of Kennecott, McCarthy and Chitina as they were in the 1920s. While in Copper Center, stay at the all-new budget rooms at the CRD — “Uncle Johnny's” Prices range from $59.00 to $79.00, or $45.00 for the cabin. Also available: Camping along the Klutina River * New Shower * Laundromat * and Uncle Nicolai's Native Gift Shop fea- turing “the Original Bug Shirt” for the most complete protection from flying bugs. PAGE 28 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 came ill and descended. He asked us while at this elevation. This was the that it isn't an ideal situation to be if he could join our team and we first of 7 nights that we would spend stuck in a storm at 17,200’ with almost instantly all agreed, realizing here. We were all still fairly chipper four of us in a three-person tent. He not too much later that we had tak- and spent hours late that night gig- decides to descend with some rang- en on too much. It didn't take long gling, melting snow, and cooking ers going down. We learn that it is for him to move into our three-per- dinner. The next day the weather OK to say “no,” and we should have son tent and join our done so at 14,200’ team. We moved up to instead of trying to 17,200’ with him at- be nice. tached to our rope, So, back to the changing the dynamic of climbing. The storm the entire climb. The picks up some force. ridge between 16,200’ Winds are blowing at and 17,200' is the most least 60 mph magnificent part of the through camp; snow West Buttress route. is falling upwards of Meghan and I were flip- 3-feet during the ping coins for that lead time we spend up before the trip even be- high. We spend time gan. It just so happened everyday doing some- that on that day Meghan thing physical so that was suffering a bit from we don't lose our fit- an altitude headache and ness. We build snow gave up her lead to me. I walls, bomber snow was recovering from walls. We hoola hoop some nausea that I expe- Photo courtesy Dorothy Adler and take walks. But rienced all the way up Dorothy (front) Beth and Megan with the hoola hoop at the sometimes we don’t the fixed lines earlier in 17,200-ft. camp. get out of the tent the day, but was starting for more than 3 to feel good again and hours a day. Food took the lead. The ridge can be made an appearance and really and fuel are running low, but we are threatening in bad weather. In some didn't let up at all while we were up able to acquire both from parties places it is not much more than high. We managed to acquire an going down. Some were strange, three feet wide and drops off 2,000’ extra tent for one night, which gave unidentifiable dehydrated things on one side and slightly more on the us all some elbow room and I think that we wouldn't normally eat. My other. Climbers have been blown off some of us might have even slept a favorite was the chicken noodle this ridge. There was no wind that little. By now it has become appar- soup we had for dinner one night. day until we rounded the corner to ent that “the hitchhiker” is draining I should also mention where the 17,200-ft. camp, then the wind blew us all and we need to address the idea for this trip originated. Last mighty cold and I remember think- situation with him. Privately the year Meghan’s boyfriend died in a ing my hands might get frostnip three of us girls talk and decide we tragic accident in McCarthy. She before reaching camp. They didn't, want our original team back, thus put this trip together in his memory but it was that painful feeling of meaning that we need to find a dif- and carried some of Chris' ashes to your hands rewarming after they've ferent situation for our hitchhiker, scatter at our highest point on the been so cold. The weather on Denali which we don't feel so good about. mountain. We also lived in Chris' is the primary factor in what makes The vibe between the three of us is tent while on the mountain, spoke a it a mountaineering trip vs. a vaca- changing a bit from being real light- lot about him, and shed some tears tion. So far we had been on vaca- hearted to more serious and there is thinking of him. This is important tion. some grouchiness between us. Ah, because the first day the weather The first night at 17,200’ was morals and values on the cleared where we could make a po- still clear, but cold and windy. Four mountain—what is the right thing tential summit push from 17,200’ of us squeezed like sardines in the to do here? The situation begins to was the year anniversary of his acci- resolve itself. The four of us sit tent warmed things up a bit, al- dent, June 12th. This was always the though it was almost too tight to down and talk real honestly and day we had in our minds for our sleep at all. That combined with the gently. The hitchhiker is aware that summit attempt and it just so hap- altitude and we barely slept at all we want our trip back and realizes pened that the weather was offering WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 29 us a window. However, the winds suddenly it was a whiteout and The wind would come up like a were still raging up high and al- those images were gone. Our main freight train and we would hit the though others made summit pushes goal of the trip was to have fun. deck, hiding and holding onto that day, after spending hours Beth reminded us that it wasn't fun rocks. I would sling the rope around watching the wind tear up the upper anymore and we made the call to rocks so that if one of us were blown mountain, we opted to wait one turn around. By that point it off the ridge, the rope would hope- more day because the winds were seemed like go on and risk frostbite, fully catch us. We belayed each oth- forecasted to die down some. or turn back. We made the right er from one safety zone to the next The next day was day 7 up high. call. Descending was a bit crazy and until we were out of the narrowest This is quite some time to be spend- the trip continued to border on al- part of the ridge and into a more ing at this altitude. In fact the aver- most being an epic. comfortable place. Then we got age time spent at 17,200-ft. camp is Day 8 at 17,200’ we packed stuck for an hour behind a guided 5 days. We woke at 6 AM and pre- camp and began descending to group on one of the fixed lines, pared for a summit bid. We left 14,200’ just after 1 PM. I forgot to meanwhile the wind is howling and camp a bit after 12 noon with the mention that we ran out of good we are marching in place to keep hoola hoop and all of our warm coffee and were drinking instant the feet warm. We finally made it to clothes. Meghan led up the auto- Folgers by this time, combined with 14 camp many hours later, dug up bahn, a traverse protected our cache, brewed some with 12 snow pickets, also coffee, and ate an amaz- another potentially danger- ing dinner. Then we bee- ous section of the route. We lined it for base camp at all felt strong, considering 7,200’ in one long push to the amount of time we try and beat some weather spent at altitude and being that was approaching. We tent bound for so long. De- made it to base camp ear- spite the lack of oxygen and ly the next morning and the shortness of breath you flew out on one of the last experience, I remember lis- flights before the weather tening to Beth sing as we closed in. reached 18,000’ and think- We were greeted by ing “how sweet is that.” summertime in Talkeetna. The weather was beauti- Flowers and trees and life ful at first and the wind re- and colors and all those ally seemed like it had bright things you miss slowed down. Then we Photo courtesy Dorothy Adler when you are living in the 16,000-ft. ridge as seen from 17,200-ft. camp. reached Denali Pass and the snow and ice world for wind began to rage. Leaning some time. We ate choco- over my pack to pull out my warm hot cocoa. Ghetto mochas got us late cake, walked along the river, mittens and goggles I was almost through, but I couldn't wait for a and reunited with our family and blown over. There was a party of real cup of joe at 14 camp. Before friends. It’s good to go out, but it three just ahead of us and they we left camp we scattered some of sure is sweet to come back. weren't turning back so we decided Chris' ashes at the edge of camp Look for our Denali slideshow to continue on. We had reached overlooking the Alaska Range and sometime this summer in the 18,200’ and had only a bit more looking down towards the 14 camp. McCarthy/Kennicott community. than 2,000’ to go. We stopped at It was a special moment for all three Details will be posted. one point to hydrate and eat a pow- of us that I felt honored to be a part er bar, and we were all in our own of. worlds fighting to stay warm and As soon as I turned the corner wanting to hide from the wind. We to gain the ridge, the wind blew me couldn't carry on a conversation be- back and I walked back to the other cause it was so windy. At about girls thinking "there's no way we can 19,000' the wind progressed a bit. descend in this wind." But we waited We kept expecting it to let up, but for a lull and rounded the corner it never did. We could see the sum- onto the ridge to experience a mit ridge and the summit and then heart-pounding descent to 14 camp. PAGE 30 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004

Your gateway to adventure... WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 31

Photo courtesy Craig Neill Left to right: Kaylin Moffitt, Matthew Shidner, Carter Neill (mudface), Conner Truskowski, John Paul Syren. WSEN staff photo Photo taken June 16 at the glacier mud “swimming Kennicott-McCarthy Museum is getting a workover from top hole.” to bottom. Folks from St. Elias Alpine Guides and the Wrangell Mtn. Center helped lighten the building by moving heavy objects prior to Rowcon Services raising the building and putting in a new foundation. John Adams and Carmen Russo of McCarthy Building Services repaired the roof and are in the process of crowning the building with a new met- al roof. WSEN staff photo Right — Alaska Department of Natural Resourc- es Forestry division is constructing an informa- tional kiosk near mile 56 On the McCarthy Road. They have made a nice pull-out area and are seeking funding to install vault toilets. Nutritional Supplements Online

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Enriching the quality of families' lives PAGE 32 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 Cooking with Peggy found in an old Taste of Home maga- 1 teaspoon salt tried to plan this month’s zine. 2 cups milk Irecipes around one main Chocolate Chip Coffee Cake 1 cup mashed ripe bananas (about 3 bananas depending on the size, ingredient but first I had to 1 cup butter or margarine, softened of course) choose it! I wanted something most 1 package (8 ounces) cream cheese, ½ cup butter, melted people like, something that was in softened season all year and something that 2 eggs 1 ½ cups sugar, divided could be an ingredient in breakfast, 1 cup semi-sweet chocolate morsels 2 eggs lunch, dinner, etc. Guess what I cup nuts or 1 cup raisins (I used 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3/4 came up with – CHOCOLATE the nuts.) 2 cups all-purpose flour CHIPS! I tried hard to come up with In a large bowl, combine flour, recipes that were a little different 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda sugar, baking powder, cinnamon after reading literally hundreds of and salt. Make a well in the center. them for chocolate chip cookies. 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup milk In a small bowl, combine milk, Now for breakfast. How about 1 cup (6 ounces) semi-sweet choco- mashed bananas, butter and eggs. Chocolate Chip Pancakes with honey Add to well in flour mixture. Add syrup? I found this one on the Inter- late chips 1/4 cup chopped pecans semi-sweet morsels and ½ cup nuts net. This makes about 3 servings. (or raisins); stir well until dry ingre- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Chocolate Chip Pancakes dients are just moistened. Spoon In a mixing bowl, cream the mixture into greased or paper-lined 1 cup all-purpose flour butter, cream cheese and 1 1/4 2 tablespoons sugar muffin cups, filling each 3/4 full. cups of sugar. Beat in eggs and va- Sprinkle abut 1 teaspoon nuts over 1 tablespoon baking powder nilla. Combine the flour, baking ½ teaspoon salt each muffin. Bake at 400 degrees powder, baking soda and salt; add to for 18-20 minutes. Cool 5 minutes 1 egg creamed mixture alternately with in pans, then remove and cool on cup milk 3/4 milk. Stir in chocolate chips. Pour wire rack. 2 tablespoons canola oil into a greased 9-in. Springform pan. For dessert after dinner, I want 1/4 cup miniature chocolate chip Combine the pecans, cinnamon and you to try the Double Decadent baking bits remaining sugar; sprinkle over bat- Brownie Torte with Chocolate Glaze ½ cup honey ter. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-55 that is served by the Alaska Wolf cup butter or margarine minutes or until a toothpick insert- 1/4 House B & B in Juneau. It’s so good ½ to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ed near the center comes out clean. that I decided if their rooms are even Cool for 15 minutes. Carefully run a In one bowl, combine the flour, half as good as dessert, I’m going to knife around edge of pan to loosen. sugar, baking powder, and salt. In a sell my house and move in at the B Remove sides of pan. Cool com- separate bowl, combine the egg, & B! Try it, you’ll like it! milk and oil. pletely before cutting. Yield: 10-12 Double Decadent Brownie Add the combined wet ingredi- servings. ents to the bowl of dry ingredients. For lunch, short of one of you Torte Mix well and stir in chocolate chips. coming up with a chocolate chip ½ cup butter Pour the batter by 1/4 cupfuls soup or something, how about serv- ½ cup light corn syrup onto a lightly greased hot griddle. ing Giant Chocolate Chip Banana 1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips Turn when bubbles form on top; Muffins with a salad. (If you don’t ½ cup granulated sugar cook until second side is golden have the giant muffin pan, figure you 3 eggs brown. Keep warm. will get about 18 large ones in your 1 teaspoon vanilla regular muffin pans instead of the 1 cup all-purpose flour Now, combine honey, butter nine 3” ones in the giant ones.) and cinnamon in a small microwave- 1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans able bowl. Microwave, uncovered, Giant Chocolate Chip Banana Butter and flour a 9" round cake until butter is melted and syrup is Muffins pan. In a sauce pan, heat butter and hot. Serve with pancakes. 3 cups all-purpose flour corn syrup until butter is melted. Or for brunch, how about a reci- 1 cup sugar Add chocolate chips and stir until pe for Chocolate Chip Coffee Cake I 4 teaspoons baking powder melted. Remove from heat. Add sug- 1 teaspoon cinnamon ar and eggs. Stir until well blended. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 33 Stir in vanilla, flour, and nuts. Pour Combine chocolate chips, but- sugar and gave the wrong amount of batter into pan. Bake at 350 de- ter, and corn syrup in saucepan. Stir sour cream. Susan Getz, daughter grees for 30 minutes, until center over low heat until chocolate is of WSEN subscriber Rusty Imlach, springs back when touched. Cool in melted. Remove from heat and add called my attention to the error. pan for 10 minutes. Turn out of pan vanilla. Frost top and sides of torte. Thank you, Susan! The amount of onto rack. Frost top and sides with Chill and garnish. sugar (I mistakenly omitted) is 1 ½ Chocolate Glaze. Chill until set. What I don’t do for you folks! I cups of sugar and the correct Garnish with sliced strawberries. HAD to make and eat all these reci- amount of sour cream is ½ cup. By Cut into wedges and serve with pes AND all the calories! Next issue the way, Rusty is related to John whipped cream. you will get lighter ideas. O’Neill of historic McCarthy days’ Glaze fame. ½ cup semi-sweet chocolate chips CORRECTION FROM BONNIE: 2 tablespoons butter In the May/June issue, Peggy in- 1 tablespoon corn syrup cluded a Banana Nut Bread recipe. 1 teaspoon vanilla When I typed it in on my computer, I made two mistakes! I omitted the A LOOK AT THE WEATHER McCarthy started the month with The ice on the West Fork of the As in the past, April saw the last 34 inches of snow on the ground, Kennicott River began to break apart of a long winter and the end of the increased to 42 inches on April 2nd around April 15th and water was mov- snow. April ‘04 had both normal and ended April with 7 inches still ing over the top. The river was clear temperatures and precipitation. The around. Silver Lake had 11 inches of of moving ice by April 28th and all the high temperature for the month was snow on the ground as April arrived, shore ice was gone by May 8th. The ice 60 on the 30th (71 on Apr. 27, ‘03 increased to 15 on the 2nd and was on Silver Lake was too soft for travel and 61 on Apr. 29, ‘02). The low was clear of snow on April 22nd. in late April and it was completely -14 on the 1st (-18 on Apr. 2, ‘03 and The temperatures were above gone the morning of May 14th (May 5, -17 on Apr. 1, ‘02). The average tem- average for May. The high tempera- ‘03 and Ma y 21, ‘02). perature for April was 36.1, compared ture for May was 73 on the 15th, 21st The first half of June was warm to 32.8 in ‘03 and 24.9 in ‘02. The and 22nd (70 on May 29, ‘03 and 80 and dry with highs in the high 70’s to lowest average temperatures for April on May 25, ‘02). The low temperature low 80’s. The lows were in the mid were 22.4 in 1972 and 24.7 in 1986. was 25 on the 4th (21 on May 6, ‘03 30’s to low 40’s. Summer should be Silver Lake had a high of 54 on and 15 on May 5, ‘02). The May aver- in full swing by late June. June and 30th (71 on Apr. 28, ‘03 and 60 on age temperature was 49.3. This com- July are the warmest months with the Apr. 29, ‘02) and a low of -14 on the pares with 44.4 in ‘03, 45.9 in ‘02 highs usually in the low 80’s. The 1st (-12 on Apr 2, ‘03 and -18 on and 41.8 in ‘01. There were 8 days temperature begins to cool in August Apr. 1, ‘02). The April average tem- with a high of 70 or above. Silver with highs only getting into the low perature at Silver Lake was 32.7 Lake had a high of 72 on the 22nd (67 70’s. The all time high recorded at (31.7 in ‘03 and 22.8 in ‘02). on May 29, ‘03 and 80 on May 26, McCarthy (until this year) was 87 on The precipitation for April was ‘02), a low of 26 on the 3rd (25 on June 21, 1991. Freezing tempera- about average with 0.77 inches May 19, ‘03 and 14 on May 5, ‘02) tures should be back by the end of (trace in ‘03 and 0.39 in ‘02). There and an average temperature of 49.3 August, although they can be ob- was also 8.7 inches of snow (trace in (44.0 in ‘03, 45.0 in ‘02 and 42.0 in served at any time. Average monthly ‘03 and 7.1 inches ‘02). Silver Lake ‘01). rainfall is about 2 inches (June-Au- had 0.43 inches of precipitation in The May precipitation at McCa- gust). Hidden Lake should empty April (none in ‘03 and trace in ‘02 ) rthy was below normal with 1.05 inch- sometime in July, with a rapid rise of and 4.5 inches of snow (none in ‘03 es of liquid. This compares with 1.42 the water level in the Kennicott River and ‘02). inches in ‘03 and 1.79 inches in ‘02. and some possible flooding. The first snow usually arrives sometime in late Again the total snowfall at McCa- There was no snow recorded in May at September. rthy for ‘03- ‘04 was 110.6 inches either McCarthy or Silver Lake. Mc- which is a new record (46.0 in ‘02- Carthy had 5 inches of snow on the ENJOY THE SUMMER WHATEV- ‘03, 74.2 in ‘01-‘02, 85.2 in ‘00- ‘01, ground on May 1st and it was gone by ER THE WEATHER! 65.8 in ‘99- ‘00 and 38.9 in ‘98- ‘99). the 5th. Silver Lake recorded 0.95 Silver Lake’s snowfall for ‘03- ‘04 was inches of liquid (0.62 inches in ‘03 55.5 inches (51.0 in 02'-‘03 and 57.5 and 0.96 inches in ‘02). Their snow in ‘01- ‘02). was gone by May 1st . PAGE 34 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION

Let national park residents thrive

thriving cultures as a resource wor- trail, and “subsistence” has re- (Published: May 8, 2004) thy of preservation. quired driving funky vehicles some- Many people dream of living in In the Cuyahoga Valley National where unpopulated. Today these the wilderness. Residents inside Park in Ohio, there is fresh thinking same trails and access seem lined Wrangell-St. Elias National Park are about the notion of a “lived-in” with unbreakable red-tape. examples of “self-reliant living” park. The superintendent, John De- Park Service rangers share with made real. The National Park Ser- bo, views continued occupancy, in local residents the love of nature, vice is mandated to preserve not certain circumstances, to contrib- local history, the appeal of self-reli- only wilderness but also heritage ute to the purposes for which the ant living and the importance of and culture. Wrangell-St. Elias Na- park was created. He uses the termi- preserving this for future genera- tional Park contains a remote wil- nology “residents” and “partners” tions. The Park Service can become derness culture, deep within rather than “in-holders,” the latter our hero if we as resident stewards America's largest national park. implying something to be eliminat- are treated with respect by the Park Should this community be allowed ed. Debo emphasizes that each park Service — here and in Washington, to continue? must carefully evaluate how the nat- D.C. In the 1960s, conservationists ural and cultural resource protec- Nature and thriving pre-existing considered man a threat to the wil- tion mission of that park can best communities are not mutually ex- derness. Old Park Service manage- be accomplished, and that a “one clusive concepts. Around the world, ment philosophy marginalized or size fits all” approach is the antithe- administrators of protected areas eliminated locals. New Park Service sis of good park management. By have proven this. Current access management ideas incorporate cul- the 1980s Cuyahoga had eliminated issues, visitor kiosk closures and tural assets, and some parks are most of its residents, condemning lawsuits reflect a need for a more “run with, for and, in some cases, by and burning down their houses to inclusive agenda. Management ac- local people.” Management by Park bring the land back to wilderness. tions reflecting the 1960s philoso- Service is changing to better realize Today the Park Service regrets phy of “man is a threat to the the value of indigenous cultures and those actions. wilderness” instead of the worldwide local residents as stewards. Man is The Alaska National Interest standard that “the residents are a not always a threat to preservation, Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) resource” are counterproductive. especially when communities are enshrines Alaska's preservation of Marcia Blaszak, the new Alaska re- part of the landscape. the cultural elements of remote liv- gional director for the National Park The George Wright Forum is a ing. The Park Service did not wel- Service, could set the tone for bet- Park Service institution. It acts as a come private property in parks ter cooperation between local resi- think tank, a place where ideas when Wrangell-St. Elias was formed. dents and managers of Wrangell-St. about conservation and managing Congress created ANILCA to pro- Elias. Why move to Alaska if not for national parks are developed. By tect against the old Park Service the love of nature? Who better to publishing studies on “evolving liv- management objective of eliminat- partner with than those who choose ing landscapes” where residents are ing all private land. Alaska, with its to live a wilderness lifestyle? “inclusive and constructive ele- huge distances and lack of paved What is needed is a clear state- ments” to protected areas, they roads, has a flourishing remote cul- ment from our Park Service Alaska help mold the future of our National ture, dependent on motorized vehi- regional director that her philoso- Park Service. In Europe and much cle trails like any other community phy allows the residents in this park of the developing world, “living on Earth. Locals aren't asking for to thrive. landscapes” and residents are em- new land or roads, just continued (Originally appeared in the An- braced as an essential part of their use of private land, roads and trails chorage Daily News May 8, 2004) national parks; and it has been that pre-dating the park, thus safeguard- way for the last 50 years. America’s ing a uniquely Alaska lifestyle. For Park Service still struggles with 100 years residents have broken WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 PAGE 35 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

June 9, 2004 way hoping to reach a hospital, the ment, with the permission of the WSEN, new mother just could not delay the owner, for 17 years. She wanted no What an interesting sword you delivery process any longer, the Al- rent from him, but was happy to wield. The News may be a humble pine Inn had become delivery room have him there caretaking the prop- instrument, but hopefully it reaches of last resort. The finale of the story erty. a few in powerful places who might was a parting comment made by the Apparently, while investigating be interested in the citizen’s side of new mother. Her boy would be a recent number of land sales on issues hidden in the shadow of named “Alpine.” the McCarthy Road, NPS found out “giants in the land.” Caleb and A friend listening to the story that the native allotment was de- Joshua would be approving and very then turned to me in typical dry hu- nied by BLM in 1994. The woman proud of your report. mor, “sure a good thing they hadn't failed to tell our friend that the land There are articles not only of stopped at the Moos-abou Lodge.” was never conveyed to her. It didn’t many contentious struggles, but Some readers of the News will re- take long for Tom Betts, Chitina then the view is lifted to include a member, many years ago there was District Ranger, and Richard Larra- panorama of this wonderful place in such a place. But Alpine was his bee, NPS Criminal Investigator from time and the very common men and name. Having no knowledge of a last Anchorage to come out and advise women who wish to call it home. name, I always hoped one day to him that he had until October 1st to This all works very well together, meet a man named Alpine, that I vacate the premises. They were kind and I wish to commend your efforts. might ask how he had obtained such enough to mention that they an unusual first name. weren’t going to prosecute him for As a separate page to this brief being there! letter, you will find comments re- I was saddened to learn of the garding a recent article found in the passing of Alpine Kameroff on April Now, this kind and generous May & June issue of WSEN. 18th. The article on page 16 of the man must come up with the finan- News for May and June of 2004 told cial resources to set himself up Yours Truly, me a little about this man of such somewhere else before winter. He Dan Renshaw auspicious beginning. From that must find either a rental in the area article I now understand I am the or try to purchase a piece of land of Alpine Kameroff poorer for never have met Alpine his own. His quiet life of solitude Thirty-six years ago I stopped at Kameroff in person. Because of the and enjoyment of his simple plea- the old Alpine Inn at Sutton for article he now seems an acquain- sures and animals has been turned breakfast. I was acquainted with tance of long standing, just not seen upside down. No mention of a lease many cafe regulars who worked at or heard from in recent years. agreement was even suggested. Just the Evan Jones Coal Mine, and I no- a demand to leave. So much for his ticed their conversation was more WSEN golden years. lively than normal for that early Most of us look forward to our This same native allotment de- morning hour. I listened for the rea- golden years. Here in the WRST, by nial is wreaking havoc with other son. It seems that but a few hours the time we’re in our late sixties, we local residents. They are being told previous, the Alpine Inn had wit- have to live a careful balance be- that since their access road crosses nessed an unusual event. A couple tween our Social Security stipends a portion of the newly-recognized from the Copper River Valley had and the costs of running a home- federal land, they must all pay annu- lost a race against time and the stead. It’s not easy in our world of al access fees to NPS reach their stork. Their son was born on the rising fuel costs to keep generators homes. The road could easily be pool table right here at the Alpine running and vehicles roadworthy. moved to avoid the 100 yards of fed- Inn. eral land. I imagine a simple request Well, the NPS just made life from NPS would have probably done Over breakfast and additional quite a bit harder for one of our that. But instead, the steamroller coffee, I was appraised of all the de- neighbors in the park. At the age of tactic is used again. More fees to tails: this couple had driven for 68, he has been living in a cabin on reach our homes. many miles down the Glenn High- what he thought was a native allot-

(continued on page 16) PAGE 36 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS JULY & AUGUST 2004 Glennallen,AK99588 BoxMXY PO #42 McCarthy NewsElias St. Wrangell

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w Private cabins for 2 to 4. w Convenient access by automobile. w Historic homestead setting. Enjoy Alaskan bush living. w Quiet location away from the crowds! Phone (907)554-4454 or Email [email protected] See us on the WEB at http://mccarthy-kennicott.com/WSENBB.htm Your hosts, long-time residents Rick & Bonnie Kenyon.