Xu Zhen 8848-1.86 2005 Multi Media Installation
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Auf Allen Gipfeln
Szene Sport FUSSBALL „Schlechtere Werte“ 320 Michael Fuchs, 41, Torwart - D P Bergsteiger A trainer der deutschen Frauen- D / Z T Nationalmannschaft, über R E P erklommen P die Leistungen der Torhüte - I N K rinnen bei der WM bereits die „Seven Summits“; die „Seven Second SPIEGEL: Der englischen Torfrau Karen Summits“ hat noch Bardsley und der Japanerin Ayumi keiner geschafft. Kaihori unterliefen bei der WM schwe - re Fehler, die zu Gegentreffern führ - ten. Trügt der Eindruck, oder fehlt vie - len Torhüterinnen im Vergleich zu den Feldspielerinnen das Niveau? Fuchs: Frauenfußball ist ein junger Sport, der Ausbildung der Torhüterin - nen wird noch zu wenig Beachtung ge - R E schenkt. 2007 wurde ich der erste D N A hauptamtliche Torwarttrainer der Na - L R E tionalmannschaft. Andere Teams, die M M A K Kammerlander auf dem Mount Logan in Kanada erst auf dem Sprung in die Weltspitze O R Ü sind, vernachlässi - B gen die Schulung der Torhüterinnen bis - BERGSTEIGEN her völlig. SPIEGEL: Welchen Einfluss haben ge - Auf allen Gipfeln schlechtsspezifische Unterschiede? er Südtiroler Hans Kammerlander will noch in diesem Jahr als erster Mensch Fuchs: Torfrauen sind die „Seven Second Summits“ bezwingen, die zweithöchsten Gipfel jedes G D I N kleiner als ihre Erdteils. Im April bestieg Kammerlander den 4730 Meter hohen Puncak Trikora Ö K D männlichen Kolle - in Indonesien, nun fehlt ihm nur noch der Mount Tyree (4852 Meter), der Berg N R E B gen und haben bei liegt in der Antarktis. Weil Kammerlander, 54, kaum Informationen über den Bardsley der Schnellkraft und Berg hat, will er ihn vor dem Aufstieg mehrmals mit dem Flugzeug umrunden, der Sprungkraft et - um die beste Route zu finden. -
A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
Annapurna I, East Ridge, Third Ascent. One of the Most Nota
C LIMBS A ND E XP E DITIONS : N E PA L 375 Nepal ANNAPURNA HIMAL Annapurna I, east ridge, third ascent. One of the most nota- ble accomplishments of the season was the second two- way traverse of the east ridge of Annapurna I (8,091m). When the well-known Pol- ish climber, Piotr Pustelnik, organized his four-man team for this task, he was well aware of the difficulties they would confront on this huge ridge, which starts from Tarke Kang (a.k.a. Glacier Dome, 7,193m) in the east and runs westward over Roc Noir to the three 8,000m summits of Annapurna. However, he did not anticipate the addition of two not-so-highly skilled Tibetans on his permit and the problems one of them would present. The first ascent of the east ridge, which resulted in an elegant traverse of Annapurna, ranks with some of the most significant events in the history of Himalayan climbing. The ridge was first attempted by Germans in 1969, and again in 1981 by a Swedish team, the latter getting as far as the East Summit of Annapurna. Both approached via the West Annapurna Glacier and the east side of the col north of Fluted Peak. In September and October 1984 a six-man expedition entirely formed of Swiss guides, established four camps from the South Annapurna Glacier, climbing to the col between Fluted Peak and Tarke Kang from the more difficult but less dangerous west side, then, in common with the Germans and Swedes, up the ridge above to Tarke Kang itself. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Epilogue The period 1975–90 was indeed a formative and unique period in Australian Himalayan climbing. Chapter 29 looked forward from 1990 and foreshadowed some significant shifts in the nature of mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia that would mark 1990 as a turning point. Now, 20 years later, many of those projections of change have developed into well-established trends. Perhaps the most dominant of all the trends has been the move to commercial expeditions. In the 1970s and 1980s, most Himalayan expeditions were largely do- it-yourself affairs—from initial planning, obtaining a permit and organising the equipment to planning the logistics and arranging the transport from Australia. And all of this time-consuming work was expended before the team even reached Asia and began the walk into the hills to eventually tackle the mountain. From the last decade of the twentieth century there has been a pronounced shift to commercial expeditions. For example, in a survey of Australian Himalayan mountaineering for the period 2001–03, nearly half of the expeditions covered (16 of 33) were commercial.1 The trend is probably due to the rising wealth in general of Australians coupled with the increasing time constraints as contemporary society becomes faster paced, allowing less time for planning and organisation. In addition, the Himalayan region has become more accessible and the number of commercial operators in the big mountains has grown sharply. Two contrasting styles of commercial expedition are important to distinguish. At one extreme lies the fully guided expedition, in which the client is completely taken care of—from armchair to summit. -
Seven Second Summits
Hans Kammerlander Seven Second Summits Hans Kammerlander mit Walther Lücker Über Berge um die Welt Mit 77 farbigen Abbildungen und einer Karte MALIK Mehr über unsere Autoren und Bücher: www.malik.de Von Hans Kammerlander liegen bei Malik und Piper außerdem vor: Bergsüchtig Abstieg zum Erfolg Unten und oben – Berggeschichten Am seidenen Faden – K2 und andere Grenzerfahrungen Zurück nach Morgen – Augenblicke an den 14 Achttausendern ISBN 978-3-89029-427-8 © Piper Verlag GmbH, München 2012 2. Auflage 2013 Fotos: Hans Kammerlander Karte: Eckehard Radehose, Schliersee Satz: Kösel, Krugzell Druck und Bindung: CPI – Ebner & Spiegel, Ulm Printed in Germany Inhalt Prolog Das Abenteuer beginnt zwei Meter abseits der ausgetrampelten Pfade 7 Asien – K2 Ein Bilderbuchberg Auf dem Gipfel mischte sich Wehmut in die Freude, und ein neues Ziel nahm Gestalt an 23 Südamerika – Ojos del Salado Wüstensand und ein Kraterloch In der Atacama erklärte mir ein Freund, dass man Bilder nicht unbedingt in einem Album aufbewahren muss 52 Afrika – Mount Kenia Ein kleines Wetterfenster genügte Winterliche Besteigung unter Afrikas Schneehimmel 76 Nordamerika – Mount Logan Über Nacht öffnete sich der Gletscher Im Grenzgebiet zwischen Alaska und Kanada ist der Beruf des Piloten eine Kunst 100 Europa – Dychtau Ein schier endlos langer Tag an einem großen Berg Im Kaukasus lernt man Härte, Leidensfähigkeit und wuchtige Berge kennen 134 Australien-Ozeanien – Puncak Trikora Dauerhaft nass und jede Menge Spaß Ein Berg, ein Koch, zerschlissene Gummistiefel, eine Erst- und eine Zweitbegehung 167 Antarktis – Mount Tyree Spannung in vielerlei Hinsicht In der Antarktis zwischen Daunentouristen, großer Abgeschiedenheit und einer Menge Zwist 199 Epilog Über Berge um die Welt Gefangen zwischen Schlagzeilen – die Besteigung des Mount Logan 238 Prolog Das Abenteuer beginnt zwei Meter abseits der ausgetrampelten Pfade Vor rund sechzig Millionen Jahren zerfiel unsere Erdkruste. -
Annual Report 2012 2013 Annual
HEADER HERE Intro paragraph Body copy HELPING THE PEOPLE OF THE HIMALAYA Annual Report 2012/13 SUSTAINABLE EDUCATION, HEALTH AND ENVIRONMENT PROJECTS 1 THE AUSTRALIAN HIMALAYAN FOUNDATION | ANNUAL REPORT 2012/13 HEADER HERECONTENTS 3 Who We Are 4 Chairman’s Review 5 From The General Manager 7 Program Review 8 Teacher Training Quality Education (Ttqe) – Our Flagship Program 9 Solu Khumbu Ttqe Program Plan 10 Our Programs 13 Board Of Directors And Staff 15 Our Donors, Sponsors & Supporters 16 Financial Information 17 Income Statement 18 Balance Sheet The Australian Himalayan Foundation aims to help the people of the Himalaya through improvements in health, education and conservation and for ten years has been working in partnership with local communities in a long term, sustainable way. WHO WE ARE Over the years, thousands of Australians have visited the Himalaya. For many it is an opportunity to trek beneath the world’s highest peaks and to appreciate some of the world’s most hospitable cultures. Yet the Himalaya is not just a vast adventure playground. For the local communities life is anything but easy – with access to basic health and education services often out of reach. In response to these needs, the Australian The AHF is a not for profit aid agency, Himalayan Foundation is striving to ensure with tax deductibility status and with no the long-term viability of sustainable health, political or religious affiliations. We are education and conservation programs members of the Australian Council for across the Himalaya. These programs International Development and adhere are in alignment with the UN’s Millennium to the ACFID Code of Conduct. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Images Image 2.1. George Finch (right) and Geoffrey Bruce at base camp, following their attempt on Mt Everest in 1922. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 185 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 2.2. The oxygen apparatus, invented by George Finch, used on the 1922 and subsequent Everest expeditions. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 186 IMAGES Image 2.3. George Finch on the 1922 Everest expedition, wearing the down-filled jacket that he invented. Photo from the Finch collection, first published in Finch (1924) 187 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.1. Surveying on the southern source of the Lolofond Glacier, Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. Grahame Budd (left) and Geoff Bratt, using the theodolite Photo by Keith Miller Image 3.2. Members of the Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. From left, back row: Keith Miller, Brian Amos, Peter Grimley, Eric Shipton Front row: Geoff Bratt, Chris Gravina, Roger Cratchley Photo by Grahame Budd 188 IMAGES Image 3.3. Jon Stephenson surveying on the 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, accompanied by Ishmael, a Balti high altitude porter. Photo provided by Jon Stephenson 189 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.4. Descending K12, 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, Pakistan. Photo by Jon Stephenson 190 IMAGES Image 3.5. Geoff Wayatt traversing across the “Wall of Shadows”, north face of Jannu, Nepal,1975. Photo provided by Geoff Waya 191 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.6. Geoff Wayatt at camp three on the north face of Jannu, Nepal, 1975. Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt 192 IMAGES Image 4.1a. : Young Australian climbers on an instructional course in New Zealand in 1965 based at Ball Hut, near Mt Cook: practising (a) river crossing, and (b) crevasse rescue. -
HANS KAMMERLANDER Ein Interview Von Andi Fichtner
16 interview HANS KAMMERLANDER Ein Interview von Andi Fichtner Was bekommt der Zuschauer in deinem Vortrag zu sehen? Mein Vortrag hat ganz verschiedene Gesichter. Harter Alpinismus am K2, dem »Berg der Berge«, dann komplett anders: Die Wüste von Chile, der Urwald von Neuguinea, die Weite der Antarktis … Kulturell und landschaftlich ist es eine riesige Fülle, für die es sich auf den Reisen lohnt, viel Zeit mitzunehmen, um sie zu erleben. Wie kamst du zur Idee, der »Seven Second Summits«? Für jemanden, dem es nicht steil und anspruchsvoll genug sein kann, eine ungewöhnliche Sache. Nachdem die bekannten großen Berge dieser Welt längst bestiegen sind, die 14 Acht- tausender und auch besonders die »Seven Summits« von Bergsteigern gesammelt werden, dass fast schon ein Massentourismus entsteht, war es für mich eine viel größere Als der Südtiroler Kammerlander den K2, Herausforderung, die zweithöchsten Gipfel zu besteigen. Ein schwieriges Unternehmen, den zweithöchsten Gipfel der Erde und den denn diese Berge liegen nicht im allgemeinen Fokus der Bergsteiger und sind zum Teil wohl schwierigsten seiner insgesamt 13 schwieriger zu besteigen, als die Höchsten, was das ganze auch aus alpinistischer Sicht Achttausender bestieg, reifte dort oben in sehr interessant gemacht hat. ihm bereits ein neuer Plan. Er beschloss, auf allen sieben Kontinenten die jeweils zweit- Als 2008 meine Tochter zur Welt kam, war es genau der richtige Moment, mich vom höchsten Gipfel zu besteigen, die „Seven allgemeinen alpinen Wettlauf zu distanzieren. Ich wollte nur noch schöne Geschichten Second Summits“. Anlässlich seines Vortrags machen. Dazu gehörten die zweithöchsten Gipfel. So kam ich auf Kontinente, auf denen in Stuttgart sprach Andi Fichtner mit der ich noch nie war. -
Expedition Achievements
Pioneering Australian climber Rick White founded Mountain Designs in 1975 with the aim to provide quality gear and equipment to adventures like himself. Rick White on takes a break on the fi rst Australian ascent of El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, California. MOUNTAIN DESIGNS SPONSORED EXPEDITIONS OF THE SIX HIGHEST MOUNTAINS ON EARTH 1. MT EVEREST 8848m 1st Australian ascent 1984 Tim Macartney-Snape & Greg Mortimer The fi rst Australian ascent of Everest in 1984 by Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer, by a new route (White Limbo) up the North Face central couloir, without supplementary oxygen. A climb that is still unrepeated to this day. 2. K2 8611m 1st Australian ascent 1990 Greg Child, and Greg Mortimer Greg Child and Greg Mortimer climbed K2 via the North Ridge, a rarely climbed route, without supplementary oxygen. 3. KANGCHENJUNGA 8598m 1st Australian ascent 1987 Michael Groom & John Coulton Michael Groom after an epic ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1987, which resulted in the loss of all his toes, went on over the next decade to climb the rest of the six highest peaks in the world, without oxygen. 4. LHOTSE 8501m 1st Australian to climb over 8000m 1982 Fred From Lhotse is located at the border of Tibet and Khumbu and is connected to Everest via the South Col. The South Face is one of the steepest in the world, rising 3 kilometres in 2.3 kilometres. 5. MAKALU 8481m High Point reached 7600m 1983 Fred From & Mark Moorhead The fi fth highest mountain in the world, Makalu, is an isolated mountain and is located on the border of Nepal and China. -
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präsentiert Ein Film von Gerald Salmina Mit Hans Kammerlander, Werner Herzog, Stephan Keck u.v.a. 123 Minuten – Österreich 2018 Kinostart Österreich und Südtirol: 14. Dezember 2018 Kinostart Deutschland: 3. Januar 2019 Presseheft VERLEIH: PRESSE ÖSTERREICH: Panda Lichtspiele Filmverleih GmbH Michaela Englert [email protected] VERTRIEB: +43 699 19 46 36 34 Thimfilm GmbH Leitermayergasse 43/4 PRESSE DEUTSCHLAND 1180 Wien Panorama Entertainment Amélie Linder Ickstattstraße 12 80469 München amelie.linder@panorama- entertainment.com +49 89 30 90 679 33 Pressematerial finden Sie auf www.filmpresskit.at CREDITS Protagonisten: HANS KAMMERLANDER WERNER HERZOG STEPHAN KECK u.v.a. Darsteller Reenactments: Hans Kammerlander 30-50 MICHAEL KUGLITSCH Hans Kammerlander 20-30 SIMON GIETL Hans Kammerlander 8 LEO SEPPI Hans Kammerlander 15 PATRICK TIRLER Brigitte Kammerlander SARA BORN Reinhold Messner MARKUS SCHWÄRZER u.v.a. Produzent, Drehbuch, Regie: GERALD SALMINA Kamera: GÜNTHER GÖBERL – HARTMANN SEEBER Schnitt: DAVID HOFER Musik: MANFRED PLESSL Sound Design: ANDREAS FREI Eine Produktion von PLANET WATCH GMBH & CoKG gefördert von: Österreichisches Filminstitut, Filmstandort Austria, IDM Südtirol, Servus TV. DREHORTE NEPAL Kathmandu, Manaslu SÜDTIROL/ITALIEN Sand in Taufers / Ahornach, Wielenbachtal, Kleine Zinne, Peitlerkofel, Moosstock, Seceda, Ortler / Sulden, Schnalstaler Gletscher, Gran Vernel ÖSTERREICH Velden UNGARN Zalaszántó 1 PRESSENOTIZ Der Everest Rekord Bezwinger Hans Kammerlander stellt sich nach 26 Jahren seinem Schicksal am MANASLU in Nepal (8163 Meter). Ein Freund stürzte ab, der andere wurde nur wenige Meter neben ihm vom Blitz erschlagen. Hans, dem Wahnsinn nahe, überlebte! Nach seinen Erfolgsfilmen MOUNT ST. ELIAS und STREIF kehrt Regisseur Gerald Salmina mit einem spektakulären, wie bewegendem Portrait von einem der größten Bergsteiger unserer Zeit zurück auf die Kinoleinwand. -
Dying on the 8000M Peaks in the Himalaya and Karakoram
LEARNING BY (NOT) DYING ON THE 8,000M PEAKS IN THE HIMALAYA AND KARAKORAM Learning by doing is regarded as a fundamental driver of economic growth in the endogenous growth literature. Yet studies of learning by doing have examined industries for very brief periods only, and they generally use aggregate data to infer learning that may be occurring at a micro level. This study examines the history of an “industry”—Himalayan mountaineering on the peaks over 8,000m in height— over an entire century. As we are able to identify individuals taking part in climbing expeditions, we can test whether learning by doing takes place at the individual, “firm”, or industry level. We find evidence that observed increases in successful ascent rates and concomitant decreases in death, frostbite and altitude sickness rates are in part due to learning by doing at the industry level, as an increase in the cumulative experience of prior expeditions reduces the chances that a later expedition will suffer an adverse outcome, and in part due to increases in the human capital of the climbers, as an increase in climbers’ prior experience increases the probability of an expedition ascent. 1. INTRODUCTION In 1895 the British climber Albert Mummery, perhaps the finest mountaineer of his time, and five others made the first serious attempt to climb a mountain exceeding 8,000 meters in height. The mountain they chose to climb was Nanga Parbat (8,126m), in present-day Pakistan. It is one of only fourteen mountains in the world whose peaks rise above 8,000m, all of which lie in the Himalaya or Karakoram mountains of India, Nepal, Pakistan, and Tibet. -
Pre Ess Rele Ease
AUSTRALIAN EMBASSY KATHMANDU Press release (25 June 2010) Celebrating 50 Years of Australian Mountaineering Feats and Friendships in Nepal AUSTRALIAN EMBASSY BOOK LAUNCH The more I go to Nepal, the more I love it. It has a way of growing in your heart, doesn’t it? For me it’s the people. There’s an exuberance of life I find very addictive. The mountains, the many cultures, the creativity of artists in all fields, from film-making to painting, music and writing. That’s what does it for me. Brigitte Muir Kathmandu, Nepal, 25 June 2010: The Australian Embassy Nepal announced today the launch of Celebrating 50 Years of Australian Mountaineering Feats and Friendships in Nepal, a book marking the 50th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Australia and Nepal. The Acting CEO of Nepal Tourism Board Mr Subash Nirola will officiallly launch the commemorative publication at the Australian Embassy in Bansbari on 25 June, 2010 from 4.00pm to 6.00pm. The book tells the stories of nine notable Australians whose achievements on the mountains are matched by their achievements as friends of Nepal - both on an individual level and through their philanthropic works. It opens with a candid interview with Alfred “Greg” Gregory, mountaineer and official photographer on the 1953 Everest expedition, recorded just two weeks prior to his death in February this year. Andrew Lock’s steady determination to set records on 8,000m-plus peaks, while committing himself to the role of private philanthropic organisation the Australian Himalayan Foundation’s (AHF) first ambassador has earned him great respect the world over.