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Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Epilogue The period 1975–90 was indeed a formative and unique period in Australian Himalayan climbing. Chapter 29 looked forward from 1990 and foreshadowed some significant shifts in the nature of mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia that would mark 1990 as a turning point. Now, 20 years later, many of those projections of change have developed into well-established trends. Perhaps the most dominant of all the trends has been the move to commercial expeditions. In the 1970s and 1980s, most Himalayan expeditions were largely do- it-yourself affairs—from initial planning, obtaining a permit and organising the equipment to planning the logistics and arranging the transport from Australia. And all of this time-consuming work was expended before the team even reached Asia and began the walk into the hills to eventually tackle the mountain. From the last decade of the twentieth century there has been a pronounced shift to commercial expeditions. For example, in a survey of Australian Himalayan mountaineering for the period 2001–03, nearly half of the expeditions covered (16 of 33) were commercial.1 The trend is probably due to the rising wealth in general of Australians coupled with the increasing time constraints as contemporary society becomes faster paced, allowing less time for planning and organisation. In addition, the Himalayan region has become more accessible and the number of commercial operators in the big mountains has grown sharply. Two contrasting styles of commercial expedition are important to distinguish. At one extreme lies the fully guided expedition, in which the client is completely taken care of—from armchair to summit. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Images Image 2.1. George Finch (right) and Geoffrey Bruce at base camp, following their attempt on Mt Everest in 1922. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 185 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 2.2. The oxygen apparatus, invented by George Finch, used on the 1922 and subsequent Everest expeditions. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 186 IMAGES Image 2.3. George Finch on the 1922 Everest expedition, wearing the down-filled jacket that he invented. Photo from the Finch collection, first published in Finch (1924) 187 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.1. Surveying on the southern source of the Lolofond Glacier, Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. Grahame Budd (left) and Geoff Bratt, using the theodolite Photo by Keith Miller Image 3.2. Members of the Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. From left, back row: Keith Miller, Brian Amos, Peter Grimley, Eric Shipton Front row: Geoff Bratt, Chris Gravina, Roger Cratchley Photo by Grahame Budd 188 IMAGES Image 3.3. Jon Stephenson surveying on the 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, accompanied by Ishmael, a Balti high altitude porter. Photo provided by Jon Stephenson 189 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.4. Descending K12, 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, Pakistan. Photo by Jon Stephenson 190 IMAGES Image 3.5. Geoff Wayatt traversing across the “Wall of Shadows”, north face of Jannu, Nepal,1975. Photo provided by Geoff Waya 191 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.6. Geoff Wayatt at camp three on the north face of Jannu, Nepal, 1975. Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt 192 IMAGES Image 4.1a. : Young Australian climbers on an instructional course in New Zealand in 1965 based at Ball Hut, near Mt Cook: practising (a) river crossing, and (b) crevasse rescue. -
Sydney Midwinter 2006 Haberfield Rowing Club
Sydney Midwinter 2006 Haberfield Rowing Club Greg Mortimer - Guest Speaker NSW MWD - 1st July 2006 Greg Mortimer is one of the world's foremost mountaineers: an eminent Antarctic mountaineer and adventurer and a pioneer in leading travel expeditions to the Antarctic. On October 3rd 1984 Greg Mortimer and team mate Tim Macartney-Snape became the first Australians to climb Everest (8850m, Nepal). They not only did this without bottled oxygen, but via a new route (North Face - Great Couloir). Greg's other climbing accomplishments include the first ever summit of Annapurna II (7937m, Nepal) via its South Face (1983), the first Australian summit of Antarctica's highest peak, Vinson Massif (4897m in 1988), and the first Australian ascent of K2, the second tallest mountain in the world (8611m, in 1990; North Ridge, Pakistan). To keep his hand in, he ascended Mt Manaslu (8156m), the eighth highest mountain in the world, just several weeks after Andrew Lock, the first Australian to summit, in 2002. In 1988 Greg organised and led the Australian Bicentennial Antarctic Expedition. These journeys have been covered in two documentaries which have been distributed world-wide: "The Loneliest Mountain", by Film Australia and "Everest - The Australian Assault", by the Channel Nine television network. In a listing of the first ascents of the fourteen 8000m peaks by Australians, interestingly the only ascents NOT via the accepted 'standard' routes were Greg and Tim's on Everest in 1984 and Greg Mortimer and Greg Child's on K2 in 1990 - ie the highest and the hardest! Both were achieved without supplementary oxygen. -
Expedition Achievements
Pioneering Australian climber Rick White founded Mountain Designs in 1975 with the aim to provide quality gear and equipment to adventures like himself. Rick White on takes a break on the fi rst Australian ascent of El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, California. MOUNTAIN DESIGNS SPONSORED EXPEDITIONS OF THE SIX HIGHEST MOUNTAINS ON EARTH 1. MT EVEREST 8848m 1st Australian ascent 1984 Tim Macartney-Snape & Greg Mortimer The fi rst Australian ascent of Everest in 1984 by Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer, by a new route (White Limbo) up the North Face central couloir, without supplementary oxygen. A climb that is still unrepeated to this day. 2. K2 8611m 1st Australian ascent 1990 Greg Child, and Greg Mortimer Greg Child and Greg Mortimer climbed K2 via the North Ridge, a rarely climbed route, without supplementary oxygen. 3. KANGCHENJUNGA 8598m 1st Australian ascent 1987 Michael Groom & John Coulton Michael Groom after an epic ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1987, which resulted in the loss of all his toes, went on over the next decade to climb the rest of the six highest peaks in the world, without oxygen. 4. LHOTSE 8501m 1st Australian to climb over 8000m 1982 Fred From Lhotse is located at the border of Tibet and Khumbu and is connected to Everest via the South Col. The South Face is one of the steepest in the world, rising 3 kilometres in 2.3 kilometres. 5. MAKALU 8481m High Point reached 7600m 1983 Fred From & Mark Moorhead The fi fth highest mountain in the world, Makalu, is an isolated mountain and is located on the border of Nepal and China. -
Pre Ess Rele Ease
AUSTRALIAN EMBASSY KATHMANDU Press release (25 June 2010) Celebrating 50 Years of Australian Mountaineering Feats and Friendships in Nepal AUSTRALIAN EMBASSY BOOK LAUNCH The more I go to Nepal, the more I love it. It has a way of growing in your heart, doesn’t it? For me it’s the people. There’s an exuberance of life I find very addictive. The mountains, the many cultures, the creativity of artists in all fields, from film-making to painting, music and writing. That’s what does it for me. Brigitte Muir Kathmandu, Nepal, 25 June 2010: The Australian Embassy Nepal announced today the launch of Celebrating 50 Years of Australian Mountaineering Feats and Friendships in Nepal, a book marking the 50th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Australia and Nepal. The Acting CEO of Nepal Tourism Board Mr Subash Nirola will officiallly launch the commemorative publication at the Australian Embassy in Bansbari on 25 June, 2010 from 4.00pm to 6.00pm. The book tells the stories of nine notable Australians whose achievements on the mountains are matched by their achievements as friends of Nepal - both on an individual level and through their philanthropic works. It opens with a candid interview with Alfred “Greg” Gregory, mountaineer and official photographer on the 1953 Everest expedition, recorded just two weeks prior to his death in February this year. Andrew Lock’s steady determination to set records on 8,000m-plus peaks, while committing himself to the role of private philanthropic organisation the Australian Himalayan Foundation’s (AHF) first ambassador has earned him great respect the world over. -
Everest Also Called Mt
MOUNTAINEERING IN NEPAL FACTS AND FIGURES Government of Nepal Ministry of Culture,Tourism & Civil Aviation Department of Tourism Kathmandu March, 2017 Gofob"t – c° @!! 1 Published Date : March, 2017 Number of Copies : 500 Copyright @ : Department of Tourism Published by : Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation Department of Tourism Bhrikutimandap, Kathmandu Tel : 977-1-4256231, 4247037 Fax : 977-1-4227281 Website: www.tourismdepartment.gov.np Email : [email protected] 2 Gofob"t – c° @!! Chief Editor Mr. Dinesh Bhattarai Director General Editor Team Mr. Durga Datta Dhakal, Director Mr. Sabin Raj Dhakal, Director Mr. Laxman Sharma, Director Mr. Krishna Lamsal, Director Mr. Bishnu Prasad Regmi, Director Mr. Rishi Ram Bhattarai, Section Officer Mr. Rajendra Kumar Shrestha, Account Officer Ms. Rama Bhandari Gautam, Statistical Officer Supporting Team Mr. Santosh Moktan, Computer Officer Mr. Khem Raj Aryal, Nayeb Subba Mr. Tilakram Pandey, Accountant Gofob"t – c° @!! 3 4 Gofob"t – c° @!! Message Nepal is culturally rich country with variety of world-class and nature-based destination. Nepal is ideal destination for revelling untouched, undiscovered land and uncovering yourself. With most of the mighty peaks and mountains lying in Nepal, It is dreamland for mountaineers and trekkers. Mt. Everest also called Mt. Sagarmatha or Mt. Chomolungma is the highest mountain in the world with 8,848m height lies in nepal along with 7 other peaks ranging above 8,000m. In 1949, Nepal's peaks / mountains were opened for climbing. Since then, mountaineering has been the major tourism activity and considered as prolific sector in terms of revenue generation of the country. So, The Government of Nepal has opened 414 peak for mountaineering activities by adding 104 peaks in 2014. -
Savage-Torgler-CREMA
Center for Research in Economics, Management and the Arts Raumplanung: Rückzonungen sollen Einzonungen ermöglichen THE TIMES THEY ARE A CHANGIN': The effect of institutions on behavior, cooperation, emotional attachmentRené L. andFrey sentiment at 26,000ft Artikel erschienen in Basellandschaftliche Zeitung, 28. November 2012, S. 30, aufgrund des Referats «Mehrwertabschöpfung: Eine politisch-ökonomische Analyse», gehalten am 1. November 2012 in Zürich im Rahmen des «Forums Raumwissenschaften», Universität Zürich und CUREM Beiträge zur aktuellen Wirtschaftspolitik No. 2012-04 Working Paper No. 2013-10 CREMA Südstrasse 11 CH - 8008 Zürich www.crema-research.ch CREMA Gellertstrasse 18 CH-4052 Basel www.crema-research.ch THE TIMES THEY ARE A CHANGIN’: The effect of institutions on behavior, cooperation, emotional attachment and sentiment at 26,000ft David A. Savage QuBE – Queensland Behavioral Economics Group, School of Economics and Finance, Queensland University of Technology, GPO Box 2434, Brisbane, QLD 4001, Australia. Benno Torgler QuBE – Queensland Behavioral Economics Group, School of Economics and Finance, Queensland University of Technology, GPO Box 2434, Brisbane, QLD 4001, Australia. EBS – Universität für Wirtschaft und Recht, EBS Business School, ISBS, Rheingaustraße 1, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel, Germany. CREMA – Center for Research in Economics, Management and the Arts, Gellertstrasse 18, CH-4052, Basel, Switzerland. Abstract This paper attempts to determine if the introduction of a competing social institution has had a significant effect and shifted the pro-social behavior in the extreme (life-and-death) environment of mountaineering in the Hi- malayan Mountains over the last sixty years. We apply an analytic nar- ratives approach to empirically investigate the link between death, success and the introduced social institution (commercialization). -
Annual Report 2009 2010 Annual Report 2009-10
AnnuAl RepoRt 2009–10 Annual Report 2009–10 Australian Himalayan Foundation Section 1 Contents 3 4 5 About the AustrAliAn exeCutive direCtor’s himAlAyAn FoundAtion ChAirmAn’s review review: the trek AheAd 6 8 10 teacher trAining quAlity FinAnCiAl education progrAm other projeCts inFormAtion 14 15 16 our donors, the AhF boArd oF sponsors & supporters direCtors & stAFF how you CAn help 2 contentS Australian Himalayan Foundation Annual Report 2009–10 About the AustRAliAn himAlAyAn FoundAtion the Australian himalayan hoW We do it ouR bACkgRound Foundation is a not-for-profit sustainable empowerment Fundraising for important charitable organization the Foundation focuses on sustainability and community projects empowerment for the people of the himalaya. since we were granted our tax-deductibility dedicated to helping the (DGR) status in January 2005, our fundraising it is about ensuring, through assistance with efforts have gone from strength to strength. people of the himalaya administration, project management, training this has allowed us to commit to a range and monitoring, that the projects are set achieve their goals. of projects and to work in close partnership up and managed in such a way as to be with a select number of non-government sustainable. WhAt We do organisations and local communities. equally important is making sure that the visions & Aims local communities are empowered and grassroots support our vision is to help the people of the equipped to manage and support the our supporters program provides the himalaya. projects, sustainably and inclusively. opportunity to be involved in the work of the our aim is to achieve this through Foundation by contributing to the wellbeing improvements in three important areas: WheRe We do it of the himalayan people. -
A Colonel's Dream
13 A colonel’s dream As their truck rumbled slowly away from the Rongbuk Valley and back towards the Tibetan settlements of Xegar and Xigatse, Tim Macartney-Snape, Lincoln Hall, Greg Mortimer, Andy Henderson and Geof Bartram no doubt felt a great sense of relief and release—relief, because the ever-present danger of climbing on a high Himalayan peak was over, and release, because the dominating influence of Mt Everest on their lives had finally waned. Although they were the first Australians to climb the mountain, they were not the first to experience the lure of Everest. Earlier a small group of Australians had trekked up to Everest base camp from the south, from the Nepalese side of the mountain. It was February, the winter season, and as they sat on the little hillock called Kala Pattar, they could see the jet stream blow an enormous plume of cloud off the imposing rock pyramid. The view of Everest from Kala Pattar—the Khumbu Icefall, the South Col and the windblown summit itself—is one of the classics in Himalayan trekking. It is one that invariably leaves trekkers in a state of awe and often triggers dreams of climbing to the highest place on Earth. For most, the dreams remain just that. For the leader of the Australian trekking group, however, the view from Kala Pattar spawned dreams that would launch and maintain an important strand of Australian mountaineering for more than a decade. The Australian trekkers were 17 members of the Australian Army, predominantly Royal Australian Engineers, and their leader was Colonel Peter Gration. -
Pakistan-Hindu Kush China
334 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL. I985 Nungu Purbat Attempt and Trugedv. A seven-man Japanese expedition led by Motumu Omiya arrived in the Diamir valley in early October. After climbing Ganalo Peak West (6290 meters, 20,637 feet), they turned to Nanga Parbat on October 20. They established seven high camps. They gave up the attempt when Hiromi Kameda fell to his death in early December. Nanga Purbut Correction. On page 304 of A.A.J., 1984 we incorrectly stated that the 1976 ascent led by Hanns Schell was the sixth ascent of Nanga Parbat when it really was the fifth. Pakistan-Hindu Kush Gul Lusht Zom Ascent and Tirich Mir Attempt. An English expedition led by Jonathan Lee climbed GUI Lasht Zom (66 11 meters, 2 1,690 feet) but failed on Tirich Mir. Details are not yet available. Bindu Gul Zom II. We traveled by jeep through Chitral and reached Zum- gramgran in the Tirich valley on July 21. We pitched Base Camp on July 24 on the Lower Tirich Glacier below the Bindu Gul Zom peaks. A long ridge de- scends eastward from Tirich Mir, separating the Lower Tirich Glacier from the Bat-urn Glacier. On this ridge lie Bindu GUI Zom I and II, Lono Zom and Kono Zom. From Bindu Gul Zom II a long ridge with four sub-summits stretches north as far as the junction of the Lower Tirich and Upper Tirich Glaciers, where the ridge ends in a vertical wall. Our goal was to have been the west-northwest face of Bindu GUI Zom II but it was soon revealed too dangerous because of rockfall. -
Working in Partnership with the People of the Himalaya
Chairman’s Review Working in partnership with the people of the Himalaya Annual Report 2015/16 Sustainable education, health and environmental projects Contents 3 Who We Are 4 Chairman’s Review 5 From the General Manager 7 Program Review 8 Building Nepal Back Better 9 Teacher Training and Quality Education – Our Flagship Program 10 Our Programs 12 Board of Directors and Staff 15 Thank you to… 16 Accountability The Australian Himalayan Foundation aims to improve the quality of life of the people most in need in remote areas of the Himalaya. Front cover image: AHF Maternal Health Care Program, Zanskar Valley, Ladakh, Indian Himalaya Who we are Over the years, thousands of Australians have visited the Himalaya. For many it is an opportunity to trek beneath the world’s highest peaks and to appreciate some of the world’s most hospitable cultures. Yet the Himalaya is not just a vast These cost-effective projects are adventure playground. For the local combined with practical on-the-ground communities life is anything but outcomes in the poorest, most under- easy – with access to basic health resourced areas of the Himalaya across and education services often out of Nepal, Bhutan and Northern India. reach. In response to these needs, These programs help to reduce poverty the Australian Himalayan Foundation and address human rights like gender was formed in 2003 and strives to equality, child rights and the rights of ensure the long-term viability of marginalised groups in rural regions sustainable health, education and throughout the Himalaya. They are in environmental programs across line with the United Nations Sustainable the Himalaya. -
Sheer Will, 1999, Michael Groom, 0091841410, 9780091841416, Random House Australia, 1999
Sheer Will, 1999, Michael Groom, 0091841410, 9780091841416, Random House Australia, 1999 DOWNLOAD http://bit.ly/1iEerQo http://www.alibris.co.uk/booksearch?browse=0&keyword=Sheer+Will&mtype=B&hs.x=19&hs.y=26&hs=Submit This is an updated and revised edition of the autobiography of extraordinary Australian mountaineer Michael Groom which we published in 1997. Even among the many achievement- against-all-setbacks books on the market, Michael Groom's story stands out. In 1987, he lost a third of both his feet to frostbite while climbing one of the world's highest mountains. He was told to forget about an active, outdoor life but by 1990 he had not only taught himself to walk again, he was back climbing the Himalayas. To increase the challenge, Michael climbs without supplementary oxygen, an extraordinary thing to do in the thin oxygen-deprived air at the top of the world. In 1999 Michael climbed Makalu in the Himalayas. Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and it's generally considered to be a harder climb than Everest, which is why so few people have done it. Michael is now one of the very few people in the world to have climbed all six of the six highest mountains. The book features two stunning 8-page colour photo sections, and has an introduction by respected mountaineer Lincoln Hall. Its appeal will reach far beyond those already interested in mountaineering--it is ideal for anyone with a taste for gripping biography, struggle-against-the-odds stories, inspirational books, or travel in Nepal.