Working in Partnership with the People of the Himalaya
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Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Epilogue The period 1975–90 was indeed a formative and unique period in Australian Himalayan climbing. Chapter 29 looked forward from 1990 and foreshadowed some significant shifts in the nature of mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia that would mark 1990 as a turning point. Now, 20 years later, many of those projections of change have developed into well-established trends. Perhaps the most dominant of all the trends has been the move to commercial expeditions. In the 1970s and 1980s, most Himalayan expeditions were largely do- it-yourself affairs—from initial planning, obtaining a permit and organising the equipment to planning the logistics and arranging the transport from Australia. And all of this time-consuming work was expended before the team even reached Asia and began the walk into the hills to eventually tackle the mountain. From the last decade of the twentieth century there has been a pronounced shift to commercial expeditions. For example, in a survey of Australian Himalayan mountaineering for the period 2001–03, nearly half of the expeditions covered (16 of 33) were commercial.1 The trend is probably due to the rising wealth in general of Australians coupled with the increasing time constraints as contemporary society becomes faster paced, allowing less time for planning and organisation. In addition, the Himalayan region has become more accessible and the number of commercial operators in the big mountains has grown sharply. Two contrasting styles of commercial expedition are important to distinguish. At one extreme lies the fully guided expedition, in which the client is completely taken care of—from armchair to summit. -
Annual Report 2012 2013 Annual
HEADER HERE Intro paragraph Body copy HELPING THE PEOPLE OF THE HIMALAYA Annual Report 2012/13 SUSTAINABLE EDUCATION, HEALTH AND ENVIRONMENT PROJECTS 1 THE AUSTRALIAN HIMALAYAN FOUNDATION | ANNUAL REPORT 2012/13 HEADER HERECONTENTS 3 Who We Are 4 Chairman’s Review 5 From The General Manager 7 Program Review 8 Teacher Training Quality Education (Ttqe) – Our Flagship Program 9 Solu Khumbu Ttqe Program Plan 10 Our Programs 13 Board Of Directors And Staff 15 Our Donors, Sponsors & Supporters 16 Financial Information 17 Income Statement 18 Balance Sheet The Australian Himalayan Foundation aims to help the people of the Himalaya through improvements in health, education and conservation and for ten years has been working in partnership with local communities in a long term, sustainable way. WHO WE ARE Over the years, thousands of Australians have visited the Himalaya. For many it is an opportunity to trek beneath the world’s highest peaks and to appreciate some of the world’s most hospitable cultures. Yet the Himalaya is not just a vast adventure playground. For the local communities life is anything but easy – with access to basic health and education services often out of reach. In response to these needs, the Australian The AHF is a not for profit aid agency, Himalayan Foundation is striving to ensure with tax deductibility status and with no the long-term viability of sustainable health, political or religious affiliations. We are education and conservation programs members of the Australian Council for across the Himalaya. These programs International Development and adhere are in alignment with the UN’s Millennium to the ACFID Code of Conduct. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Images Image 2.1. George Finch (right) and Geoffrey Bruce at base camp, following their attempt on Mt Everest in 1922. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 185 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 2.2. The oxygen apparatus, invented by George Finch, used on the 1922 and subsequent Everest expeditions. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 186 IMAGES Image 2.3. George Finch on the 1922 Everest expedition, wearing the down-filled jacket that he invented. Photo from the Finch collection, first published in Finch (1924) 187 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.1. Surveying on the southern source of the Lolofond Glacier, Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. Grahame Budd (left) and Geoff Bratt, using the theodolite Photo by Keith Miller Image 3.2. Members of the Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. From left, back row: Keith Miller, Brian Amos, Peter Grimley, Eric Shipton Front row: Geoff Bratt, Chris Gravina, Roger Cratchley Photo by Grahame Budd 188 IMAGES Image 3.3. Jon Stephenson surveying on the 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, accompanied by Ishmael, a Balti high altitude porter. Photo provided by Jon Stephenson 189 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.4. Descending K12, 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, Pakistan. Photo by Jon Stephenson 190 IMAGES Image 3.5. Geoff Wayatt traversing across the “Wall of Shadows”, north face of Jannu, Nepal,1975. Photo provided by Geoff Waya 191 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.6. Geoff Wayatt at camp three on the north face of Jannu, Nepal, 1975. Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt 192 IMAGES Image 4.1a. : Young Australian climbers on an instructional course in New Zealand in 1965 based at Ball Hut, near Mt Cook: practising (a) river crossing, and (b) crevasse rescue. -
Sydney Midwinter 2006 Haberfield Rowing Club
Sydney Midwinter 2006 Haberfield Rowing Club Greg Mortimer - Guest Speaker NSW MWD - 1st July 2006 Greg Mortimer is one of the world's foremost mountaineers: an eminent Antarctic mountaineer and adventurer and a pioneer in leading travel expeditions to the Antarctic. On October 3rd 1984 Greg Mortimer and team mate Tim Macartney-Snape became the first Australians to climb Everest (8850m, Nepal). They not only did this without bottled oxygen, but via a new route (North Face - Great Couloir). Greg's other climbing accomplishments include the first ever summit of Annapurna II (7937m, Nepal) via its South Face (1983), the first Australian summit of Antarctica's highest peak, Vinson Massif (4897m in 1988), and the first Australian ascent of K2, the second tallest mountain in the world (8611m, in 1990; North Ridge, Pakistan). To keep his hand in, he ascended Mt Manaslu (8156m), the eighth highest mountain in the world, just several weeks after Andrew Lock, the first Australian to summit, in 2002. In 1988 Greg organised and led the Australian Bicentennial Antarctic Expedition. These journeys have been covered in two documentaries which have been distributed world-wide: "The Loneliest Mountain", by Film Australia and "Everest - The Australian Assault", by the Channel Nine television network. In a listing of the first ascents of the fourteen 8000m peaks by Australians, interestingly the only ascents NOT via the accepted 'standard' routes were Greg and Tim's on Everest in 1984 and Greg Mortimer and Greg Child's on K2 in 1990 - ie the highest and the hardest! Both were achieved without supplementary oxygen. -
Expedition Achievements
Pioneering Australian climber Rick White founded Mountain Designs in 1975 with the aim to provide quality gear and equipment to adventures like himself. Rick White on takes a break on the fi rst Australian ascent of El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, California. MOUNTAIN DESIGNS SPONSORED EXPEDITIONS OF THE SIX HIGHEST MOUNTAINS ON EARTH 1. MT EVEREST 8848m 1st Australian ascent 1984 Tim Macartney-Snape & Greg Mortimer The fi rst Australian ascent of Everest in 1984 by Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer, by a new route (White Limbo) up the North Face central couloir, without supplementary oxygen. A climb that is still unrepeated to this day. 2. K2 8611m 1st Australian ascent 1990 Greg Child, and Greg Mortimer Greg Child and Greg Mortimer climbed K2 via the North Ridge, a rarely climbed route, without supplementary oxygen. 3. KANGCHENJUNGA 8598m 1st Australian ascent 1987 Michael Groom & John Coulton Michael Groom after an epic ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1987, which resulted in the loss of all his toes, went on over the next decade to climb the rest of the six highest peaks in the world, without oxygen. 4. LHOTSE 8501m 1st Australian to climb over 8000m 1982 Fred From Lhotse is located at the border of Tibet and Khumbu and is connected to Everest via the South Col. The South Face is one of the steepest in the world, rising 3 kilometres in 2.3 kilometres. 5. MAKALU 8481m High Point reached 7600m 1983 Fred From & Mark Moorhead The fi fth highest mountain in the world, Makalu, is an isolated mountain and is located on the border of Nepal and China. -
Pre Ess Rele Ease
AUSTRALIAN EMBASSY KATHMANDU Press release (25 June 2010) Celebrating 50 Years of Australian Mountaineering Feats and Friendships in Nepal AUSTRALIAN EMBASSY BOOK LAUNCH The more I go to Nepal, the more I love it. It has a way of growing in your heart, doesn’t it? For me it’s the people. There’s an exuberance of life I find very addictive. The mountains, the many cultures, the creativity of artists in all fields, from film-making to painting, music and writing. That’s what does it for me. Brigitte Muir Kathmandu, Nepal, 25 June 2010: The Australian Embassy Nepal announced today the launch of Celebrating 50 Years of Australian Mountaineering Feats and Friendships in Nepal, a book marking the 50th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Australia and Nepal. The Acting CEO of Nepal Tourism Board Mr Subash Nirola will officiallly launch the commemorative publication at the Australian Embassy in Bansbari on 25 June, 2010 from 4.00pm to 6.00pm. The book tells the stories of nine notable Australians whose achievements on the mountains are matched by their achievements as friends of Nepal - both on an individual level and through their philanthropic works. It opens with a candid interview with Alfred “Greg” Gregory, mountaineer and official photographer on the 1953 Everest expedition, recorded just two weeks prior to his death in February this year. Andrew Lock’s steady determination to set records on 8,000m-plus peaks, while committing himself to the role of private philanthropic organisation the Australian Himalayan Foundation’s (AHF) first ambassador has earned him great respect the world over. -
It's True! Everest Kills
Did you know that frogs are cannibals, fashion can be fatal and the dinosaurs never died? Or that redheads were once burned at the stake as witches? Find out why rubbish tips are like lasagna, and how maggots help solve crimes! For Finn. May your life be full of adventures. First published in 2006 Copyright © text Kim Wilson 2006 Copyright © illustrations Andrew Plant 2006 Series design copyright © Ruth Grüner All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publisher. The Australian Copyright Act 1968 (the Act) allows a maximum of one chapter or ten per cent of this book, whichever is the greater, to be photocopied by any educational institution for its educational purposes provided that the educational institution (or body that administers it) has given a remuneration notice to Copyright Agency Limited (CAL) under the Act. Allen & Unwin 83 Alexander Street Crows Nest NSW 2065 Australia Phone: (61 2) 8425 0100 Fax: (61 2) 9906 2218 Email: [email protected] Web: www.allenandunwin.com National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication entry: Wilson, Kim, 1969– . It’s true! Everest kills. Bibliography. Includes index. For children. ISBN 978 174114 414 7. ISBN 1 74114 414 0. 1. Mountaineering – Everest, Mount (China/Tibet and Nepal) – Juvenile literature. 2. Mountaineers – Everest, Mount (China/Tibet and Nepal) – Juvenile literature. 3. Everest, Mount (China/Tibet and Nepal) – Juvenile literature. I. Plant, Andrew. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
29 A Himalayan grand slam By 1990, Australian mountaineering in the Himalaya had come to something of a crossroads. It had been 15 years since Warwick Deacock led the first expedition from Australia to the Himalaya and much had been accomplished in that time. Many of the strands that had been initiated in the mid-1970s had already come to fruition. The Tim Macartney-Snape/Lincoln Hall partnership, launched with the ANU Mountaineering Club’s (ANUMC) expedition to Dunagiri in 1978, spearheaded the first Australian ascent of Mt Everest in 1984. Peter Gration’s dream of putting Australian soldiers on top of the world’s highest summit revitalised the Army Alpine Association (AAA) and guided its development through the 1980s. It led to the merger with the Melbourne-based Himalayan climbing community, which also originated in the late 1970s, to form the Australian Bicentennial Everest Expedition (ABEE). This culminated in success through the remarkable efforts of Pat Cullinan, Paul Bayne and Jon Muir, and the large team of climbers who contributed to the ABEE ascent. This Australian emphasis on Mt Everest was more than just an artefact of the organisation of this book (Chapter 24). Statistically, Australians had paid far more attention to Everest than to the other 8000 m peaks. So, with the major strands of Australian Himalayan mountaineering reaching their logical conclusion with success on Everest, the focal point of so much Australian mountaineering in the Himalaya was gone. Although individual climbers would certainly strive to achieve their personal goal of climbing the world’s highest mountain, the glitter of Everest in the minds of the Australian public, and to a certain extent in the mountaineering community itself, began to fade in the late 1980s after two major successes. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Appendix: Record of Australian mountaineering in the Himalaya Zac Zaharias Table 1 Australian Himalayan climbs, 1922–2009 (based on surveys in Wild magazine) Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 1922 Mt Everest George Finch, member Unsuccessful . Finch First serious attempt (8850 m) of 11-man British and Geoffrey Bruce on Mt Everest . N Ridge/Face, expedition reached 8350 m using Australian Finch Tibet supplementary oxygen . climbed higher than any other human had previously climbed . Finch proved that supplementary oxygen could definitely benefit climbers . 1957 Exploratory Geoffrey Bratt and Explored in Siachen Exploratory trip expedition, Grahame Budd, Glacier area . Climbed mounted by Karakoram, members of eight-man Towitz Peak (6400 m) Imperial College Pakistan British expedition led and Island Peak Mountaineering by Eric Shipton (6860 m). Club . 1960 K12 (7470 m) Jon Stephenson, Unsuccessful . Stephenson first NW Ridge, member of four-man Stephenson climbed Australian to climb Karakoram, British expedition with porter to 6640 m to 7000 m without Pakistan and solo to 7000 m . supplementary oxygen . 1963 Langtang II Peter Taylor Successful . Climbed Sometimes cited (6583 m) E Face, with four Sherpas . as first Australian Central Nepal Probably shortest-ever expedition to Himalayan expedition . Himalaya; however, Four days from road to Taylor was an base camp; five days itinerant British to climb mountain . geologist stationed in Australia for a few years . 1975 Jannu (7710 m) Geoff Wayatt, Unsuccessful . High Wayatt first N Face, Eastern member of 12-man point reached: 7360 m . Australian on Nepal New Zealand ‘modern’ expedition . expedition led by He and Jim Strang Peter Farrell overcame major obstacle of route with bold, alpine- style assault . -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990 Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990 Will Steffen THE AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY E P R E S S E P R E S S Published by ANU E Press The Australian National University Canberra ACT 0200, Australia Email: [email protected] This title is also available online at: http://epress.anu.edu.au/himalayan_citation.html National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication entry Author: Steffen, Will. Title: Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990. ISBN: 9781921666162 (pbk.) 9781921666179 (pdf) Notes: Includes bibliographical references. Subjects: Mountaineering --Himalaya Mountains--History. Mountaineers--Australia. Everest, Mount (China and Nepal) Other Authors/Contributors: Will Steffen Dewey Number: 796.522095496 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. Cover design and layout by ANU E Press Front cover image: John Finnigan and Theo Hooy at the base of the west face of Baruntse, 1988. Photo by Ken Baldwin Author Photo: Carrie Steffen Back cover: Greg Mortimer on the summit of Mt Everest, 1984. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape Printed by Griffin Press This edition © 2010 ANU E Press Contents Preface . .vii Terminology . ix Explanatory notes . xi Acknowledgments . xiii Part 1: Deep history—the early days 1 . Unlikely mountaineers . 1 2 . An outspoken Australian . 7 3 . Quiet years . 25 4 . The killing hills . 37 Part 2: On top—first major Aussie triumphs 5 . -
Book Reviews COMPILED by GEOFFREY TEMPLEMAN
Book Reviews COMPILED BY GEOFFREY TEMPLEMAN Eric Shipton: Everest and Beyond Peter Steele Constable, 1998, pp290 + xiv, £18.99 ric Shipton was born dyslexic, a condition where the brain has Edifficulty in relating the written word to sounds but which has nothing to do with intelligence; many dyslexics have outstanding careers. Even today a number of dyslexic children are not diagnosed early enough and this plays havoc with their education, as it did with Shipton. In 1907, when he was born in Ceylon, little or nothing was known about this condition. When his father died three years later, his mother, a reserved and aloof lady, tried to assuage her grief by extensive travel, and Shipton was introduced to the sort of nomadic life which later made him happy. In common with many children of those who worked in the British colonies, at the age of eight he was sent 'home' to boarding school in the UK. Here his slowness to read and learn resulted in severe teasing and punishment. It is clear that this mental, emotional and physical stress contributed to his resilient, stoical and detached nature, with which he confronted the 'slings and arrows of outrageous fortune' in his later life. His first encounter with mountains was on a family holiday to the Pyr enees, and a later visit to Norway ignited a passion that was to last a lifetime. Inevitably, perhaps, he failed to get a place at Cambridge, and this increased his sense of inferiority, particularly as many well-known mountaineers of the period were university men.